Hong Kong
A U G U S T 2 014
the complete guide to go
速
Explore Sheung Wan Hong Kong Souvenirs Chill out at an alfresco bar
Hong Kong in 24 Hours A round-the-clock itinerary
where Hong Kong 8.2014 ®
the guide
08
06 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events
14 art + culture Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening
20 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town
26 Drinks Our favorite places to sip a cocktail
38 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot
40 Map Central, Hong Kong Island
Also inside 28 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers
28
features 8 Hong Kong in 24 hours
34 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info 42 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences
Something to do every hour of the day
28 Go Local Awesome Hong Kong souvenirs
34
34 One Stop Shop
on the cover Hong Kong
A U G U S T 2 014
The compleTe GUide To Go
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ExplorE sHEung Wan Hong Kong souvEnirs CHill out at an alfrEsCo bar
A revitalized building in Central is now home to the city’s hottest designers
On a tight schedule? Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered. Turn to p.8 for an hour-byhour itinerary of what to do and where to go.
Hong Kong in 24 Hours A round-the-clock itinerary
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hot dates Hong Kong By Evelyn Lok
August 9 -10 Team Extreme After their successful debut last year, daredevils Nitro Circus bring another show to Macau. They're returning with an all new, multi-million dollar set, promising the audience evenr more death-defying acts. Returning: the signature Nitro Gigantaramp, which launches bikers up 20 feet into the air. Aug 9, 8pm; Aug 10, 3pm. CotaiArena, The Venetian, Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperança, Taipa, Macau, (+853) 2882-8888.$280-1,280 from www.hkticketing.com and www.cotaiticketing.com.
August 9
August 7-10
August 11
Summer Loving
Logged Down
The Upper Band
Summer Serenade is a brand new indie gig brought to you by indie music organizer, The Underground. The appropriately named indie folk band Summer Romance will kick things off with their bittersweet lyrics about life, love and Hong Kong. Also performing are jazz-funk band Tri-deuces, and Britrock groups Fantastic Day and FAD.
Part of the International Arts Carnival, Timber! is an acrobatic lumberjack showcase from the Canadian Cirque Alfonse. Gear up to see burly, bearded men tossing axes, wooden stumps, and each other all over the place. Founded by a Québécois family, you'll also hear a live band sing traditional folk songs while the circus troupe somersaults over log saws. Front row seats, please! Note that the final show on August 10 is at the Yuen Long Theatre.
The Aristocrats is a "heavy progressive rock collaboration" consisting of guitarist Guthrie Govan, bassist Bryan Beller and drummer Marco Minnemann. Long flowing locks and hard rockin' tunes aside, the band members actually got together at the music trade event, National Association of Music Merchants (NAMM).
10pm. Backstage Live, 1/F, Somptueux Central, 52-54 Wellington St., Central, 2167-8985. $120 from www.ticketflap.com; $150 at the door.
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Aug 7-8, 7:30pm; Aug 10, 3pm, 7:30pm. Auditorium, Sha Tin Town Hall, 1 Yuen Wo Rd., Sha Tin. $120-300 from www.urbtix.hk.
8:15pm. Musiczone, KITEC, 1 Trademart Drive, Kowloon Bay. $380 from www.ticketflap.com.
hot dates Through August
August 30
Fantastic Finale See acclaimed "Final Fantasy" composer Nobuo Uematsu in concert. He'll be accompanied by his band, the Earthbound Papas. Get the pricier tickets and you get a free CD, plus you get to meet the man in the flesh at a post-concert signing event. 8pm. Musiczone, KITEC, 1 Trademart Drive, Kowloon Bay. $480-980 from www.cityline.com.
August 2
Traveling Trunks The traveling charity exhibition Elephant Parade arrives in Hong Kong this summer to promote its message of Asian elephant conservation. More than 100 life-size (that’s 5 feet tall) baby elephant sculptures will make their home in Pacific Place, Cityplaza and Citygate Outlets through August and September. Each is handpainted by a renowned designer, artist, brand or celebrity, with a roster ranging from actor Donnie Yen and wife Cecilia Wang, to artist Diana Francis, who designed the signature Hong Kong elephant, titled “Pearl of the Orient.” Twenty elephants will also be auctioned off at the end of the parade: proceeds will go to the Asian Elephant Foundation. Aug 1-Sep 9. www.elephantparade.com.hk.
August 9
August 12
Just Roll With It
Photo: Peter Adamik
Get your hair grease ready and your leather jackets out of storage: the annual Dirty Boogie Rockabilly Festival returns. The lineup is local five-piece the Boogie Playboys, Taiwan's Fullhouse and the Bembol Rockers from the Philippines. 8pm. Fringe Club, 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central, 2525-1032. $220 at the door, including a drink.
August 23
Strings Attached
Queen of Pop
Double bass wunderkind Edicson Ruiz became the youngest ever member of the Berlin Philharmonic when he joined at age 17. He takes to the stage in Hong Kong, with acclaimed Taiwanese conductor Chien Wen-pin at the podium. It's a program of works by Richard Strauss, Mozart's 35th Symphony, as well as the highlight: a double bass concerto by the Austrian composer Carl Ditters von Dittersdorf.
The talented and wonderful singer-songwriter Ellie Goulding will be making her Hong Kong debut in August. The Brit first emerged on the scene in 2009 with studio album "Lights." Lead single "Starry Eyed" became a huge hit, and she later sang a cover of Elton John's "Your Song" at Prince William's wedding. Since then she has continued to top the charts with her soft electro-pop tunes, including "I Need Your Love" ft. Calvin Harris.
8pm. Concert Hall, City Hall, 5 Edinburgh Place, Central. $140-320 from www.urbtix.hk.
7:30pm. Star Hall, KITEC, 1 Trademart Drive, Kowloon Bay. $540 from www.hkticketing.com.
Face Off The Ultimate Fighting Championship returns to Cotai Arena. On the fight card: Cung Le of Vietnam as the headlining fighter. Welterweight #4 Tyron "The Chosen One" Woodley will face off with #9 Dong Hyun Kim. 6pm. The Venetian, Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperança, Taipa, Macau, (+853) 2882-8888. $280-4,780 from www.cotaiticketing.com.
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Hong Kong in 24 Hours A guide to the city that never sleeps. By Alex Ling, Cynthia Li and Hazel Kong
From early-morning hikes to latenight karaoke sessions, there’s always something to do or somewhere to go in buzzing Hong Kong. Here’s an ambitious 24-hour itinerary: see how much of it you can actually follow!
6am-7am
Go With the Flow Tai Chi, a low-impact form of Chinese martial arts that emphasizes the flow of “air” (a.k.a. “chi”) through the body, is an invigorating and popular morning activity. Head over to Kowloon Park and be inspired by the crowd of early risers practicing their craft, then give it a go yourself. Kowloon Park, 22 Austin Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui.
7am-8am
A Morning Stroll Start your day with a breezy stroll along the Avenue of Stars by Victoria Harbour. Morning is the perfect time to avoid the crowds and to get the whole path to yourself. Meet Bruce Lee (in statue form) and check out the handprints of local celebrities along the way.
Star Ferry
Avenue of Stars, Tsim Sha Tsui, MTR Station Exit J.
8am-9am
Across the Sea Get from one side of Victoria Harbour to the other by hopping on the Star Ferry from Tsim Sha Tsui to Central. Grab a seat on the upper deck and gape at Hong Kong’s amazing skyline during the 10-minute ride. Star Ferry pier, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-7065.
Avenue of Stars
9am-10am
10am-11am
Eating Out
Shop Till You Drop
A good day begins with a good breakfast at a local mom and pop’s. Sing Heung Yuen in Central is one of the remaining few licensed dai pai dongs (outdoor food stalls) in Hong Kong, complete with rickety round tables and an outdoor kitchen. Try their macaroni with beef in tomato soup for a taste of Hongkongers’ morning staple.
Ready to do some shopping after breakfast? Busy Causeway Bay district is where you can get anything you need, whatever your budget allows. Find high-end fashion and beauty items at Fashion Walk; mid-price to luxury goods at Hysan Place, Sogo Department Store and Times Square; or affordable youth fashion at Island Beverley and Laforet. All of the complexes are connected to the Causeway Bay MTR Station.
2 Mee Lun St., Central, 2544-8368. 8 W H E R E HONG KONG I a u g u s t 2 014
Sing Heung Yuen
3pm-4pm
Time For Tea Take a break at the prestigious Mandarin Oriental Hotel and indulge in a classic English afternoon tea set—a reminder of Hong Kong’s colonial past. The sandwiches and finger food are served on a three-tiered tray, and come with delicious scones and a fabulous selection of Chinese and English teas. Afternoon tea at Mandarin Oriental
Mandarin Oriental
11am-12pm
4pm-5pm
View From the Top
A Heritage Tour
It’s time for a bird’s eye view of Hong Kong. Take the Peak Tram on Garden Road in Central straight up to The Peak, where you can see the city laid out before you, including the tops of the tallest skyscrapers. The Peak Tram Lower Terminus, 33 Garden Rd., Central, 2522-0922.
12pm-1pm
Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens
Sky High Retreat While you’re at The Peak, be sure to check out both The Peak Galleria and Peak Tower for dining and shopping options. Get your fix of Hong Kong souvenirs, Chinese artworks and trendy clothes and jewelry, then stop for lunch at a local restaurant like Mak’s Noodle. For something fancy, The Peak Lookout and Café Deco are both popular options.
Clipper Lounge, Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4007.
Support local designers and artists by heading over to PMQ (short for the Police Married Quarters), a former lodging for police officers that has since been converted into a fun and casual commercial complex. Take your pick of everything from organic soaps to delicate cupcakes to handcrafted leather goods. See p. 35 for shopping highlights. 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2870-2335, www.pmq.org.hk.
1pm-2pm
Back to Nature Had enough of tall buildings? Take the Peak Tram back down to Central, then trek over to the Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens nearby. Founded in 1871, this park is home to a large variety of birds and local flora and is a perfect oasis smack in the middle of the urban jungle. Albany Road, Central, 2530-0154.
2pm-3pm
Drink and Learn
The Peak Lookout
PMQ
Head to Asia Society’s Hong Kong headquarters in Admiralty to see how a historical site (a former British military compound) has been converted into a beautiful multi-use building. Grab a refreshing cocktail at in-house bar-slashrestaurant, Ammo, then check out the arts exhibitions that are available to the public (the current one features Chinese artist Xu Bing). 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, asiasociety.org/hong-kong. a u g u s t 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 9
Temple Street Night Market
5pm-6pm
7pm-8pm
A Place for Contemplation
Blast From the Past
After soaking up the scene at PMQ, head westward along Hollywood Road until you hit Man Mo Temple, one of the most iconic landmarks in Sheung Wan. See our handy Walking Tour on p. 38 for more details and sights to explore. 124-126 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2540-0350.
It’s time for a proper meal: get a taste of the most authentic Chinese cuisine at Lin Heung Lau, a local fixture that opened in 1918 and is still one of the most popular dining destinations for locals and tourists alike. Red lanterns at the storefront, bird cages above your head and Chinese calligraphy on the wall: all are tell-tale signs of a bygone era. 160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556.
6pm-7pm
Keep Calm and Get Pampered
8pm-9pm
Are your soles starting to ache from all that walking? Hong Kong is the land of cheap massages, and there’s no better place to experience one than at Happy Foot, a local chain that offers not only foot rubs, but also full body massages as well as manicure and pedicure services.
Every night at 8pm, Victoria Harbour comes to life with “A Symphony of Lights”: a light show that features 46 skyscrapers along the skyline. The Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront has the best vantage point, and if you want to catch the show while sipping on a classy cocktail, hit up popular Aqua Spirit on the 30th floor of One Peking. Another option is to hop on the Aqua Luna boat at the Tsim Sha Tsui pier and watch the whole spectacle on the water.
1 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2521-0066.
Let There Be Light
Aqua Spirit, 30/F, One Peking, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2427-2288. Aqua Luna, Public Pier Number 1, Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2116-8821. 10 W H E R E HONG KONG I a u g u s t 2 014
A cowboy-themed room at Freeing HK
9pm–10pm
The Great Escape Take a break from the summer heat with some indoor fun. Freeing HK is the city’s first to offer room escape games, a groupbased social activity that’s particularly popular in Asia. Players team up to solve puzzles and try to make their way out of a closed room within 45 minutes. English instructions are available. Various locations, including 3/F, Kundamal House, 4 Prat Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2711-1793, online reservation at www.freeinghk.com.
10pm–11pm
Read Up Looking for some late-night intellectual stimulation? HK Reader is one of the best independent bookstores in town. Tucked away on the seventh floor of an old building in Mong Kok, the shop is stocked with Chinese and English titles. Expect a wide selection of books, from classic literature to modern Hong Kong Studies. 7/F, 68 Sai Yeung Choi St. South, Mong Kok, 2395-0031, www.hkreader.com.
4am-5am
Cheap and Cheerful Symphony of Lights in Victoria Harbour
1am–2am
Fine Tunes
Temple Street
11pm–12am
Lost In Translation Mong Kok at night is an iconically Hong Kong scene. The area only gets livelier as the night falls, and you’ll be able to find all sorts of Hong Kong-style snacks, from egg waffles to curry fishballs, along its busy streets. Also be sure to check out the Temple Street Night Market, a collection of outdoor stalls selling everything from clothing to electronic gadgets at bargain prices. You can also get your palms read and your fortune told if you’re feeling adventurous! Temple Street, Mong Kok, www.temple-street-night-market.hk.
12am–1am
It’s Show Time It’s late, but the night is far from over. Catch a movie at Broadway in Mong Kok, one of a handful of cinemas in Hong Kong that offer midnight screenings. A variety of movies start between 11:40 pm and 1:30 am daily. Tickets cost between $60 and $100, depending on the popularity of the movie. Choose from Hollywood blockbusters to local favorites.
No trip to Hong Kong is complete without a stopover at the 24-hour Tsui Wah, a local greasy spoon of the best variety. Fill up on sweet crispy buns and an ice-cold cup of milk tea. There are plenty of chains across the city, but if you’re feeling adventurous, head out to the branch in Tsuen Wan in the New Territories.
Book a room at Red MR and sing your heart out to classics as well as the latest tunes. Karaoke is one of the most beloved late-night activities for Hongkongers— things usually get rowdy when you throw a few beers in!
Tsui Wah Restaurant, 27-33 Chung On St., Tsuen Wan, 2419-7738.
3-4/F, MPM Mall, 240-244 Portland St., Mong Kok, 3125-3125, www.redmr.com.
Burn off all those excess calories by climbing up Tai Mo Shan, the highest mountain in Hong Kong, just in time to catch the sunrise. Take bus 51 to the Country Park bus stop from the Tsuen Wan MTR Station. Then take a taxi to the Tai Mo Shan Gateway and head straight up to the top. Congratulations: you’ve made it!
2am–3am
Snack Attack Feeling peckish? Fu Kee Delicious Food serves up delicious dim sum from 9pm till 4am daily, so load up on some har gow (shrimp dumplings) and char siu bao (barbecued pork buns) to keep those energy levels high.
5am-6am
Before Sunrise
Tai Mo Shan, New Territories.
Flat D, G/F, 36–40 Temple St., Yau Ma Tei, 3484-3633.
3am–4am
Sweet Dreams While the Temple Street Night Market is for night owls, the Yau Ma Tei Fruit Market is for early risers. The largest fruit wholesale market in Hong Kong has been in the same location for more than a century. Happy choosing!
A meal at Tsui Wah
Waterloo Road and Reclamation Street, Yau Ma Tei.
6–12 Sai Yeung Choi St., Mong Kok, www.cinema.com.hk. a u g u s t 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 11
HONG KONG Shop G&H, Ground Floor, Burlington House, 90-94C Nathan Road, T.S.T., KLN., HK (Tsim Sha Tsui Station Exit B1) 九龍尖沙咀 彌敦道90-94C號 華敦大廈地下G&H舖 (尖沙咀港鐵站 B1 出口) Tel: (852) 2366 5635 / 2366 6612 / 2368 8625 BUSINESS HOURS 09:00AM – 09:00PM (MON-SAT) 10:00AM – 07:00PM (SUN)
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the guide Cold As Ice Not used to the summer heat? Dig into a refreshing bowl of Korean shaved ice at Promenade, available during a month-long promotion starting from $208 per adult ($148 per child). The “Let’s Rock the Ice” afternoon tea buffet features the fruit and red bean-topped shaved ice as well as a host of other treats, including a durian souffle and a papaya almond tart. The tea buffet is offered from 3.30-5.30pm everyday from now until the end of August. 7/F, Harbour Plaza Metropolis, 7 Metropolis Drive, Hung Hom, 3160-6880.
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Art+culture | The Guide
Art to Art A new museum and a photography exhibition. By Evelyn Lok
A New Dimension Our city now has a 3D museum. What does that mean? Breathtaking visuals that you can almost touch? Kind of. It's more like a phototaking paradise: you'll get to pose around a whole slew of installations and paintings which rock a trick-ofthe-eye effect: making you look like you're scaling the Bank of China, or stealing bamboo from a panda. Bring your selfie sticks and get snapping. Hong Kong 3D Museum, 1/F, Hilton Tower, 96 Granville Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-9720. $100-149. www.hk3dm.com.hk.
Foreboding Fruits Hong Kong 3D Museum
Australian contemporary photographer Marian Drew's new work isn't your average still life exhibition. They may be photographs of brightly colored watermelons, berries and papayas, but she freshens up the old trope with a certain je ne sais quoi that makes each piece just slightly unsettling to look at. Through Aug 30. AJC, G/F, 6-10 Shin Hing St., Central, 2548-2286.
Marian Drew
Marian Drew
Marian Drew
Antiques ALTFIELD GALLERY — Altfield Gallery deals in Southeast Asian sculpture and decorative arts, antique maps and topographical prints relating to Asia, as well as Chinese and Tibetan carpets. Altfield also produces a range of reproduction furniture and accessories in the Chinoiserie style. Shipping available. Shop 248-9, 2/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-6370, www.altfield.com.hk. ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUES — The three-story shop houses large collections of Qing dynasty porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic stone and bronze sculptures and buddhas, and terracotta sculptures from China and Southeast Asia are found in the viewing galleries, plus there are over 200 paintings in the extensive ancestral scroll collection. G/F, 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848.
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DRAGON CULTURE — Specializes in dinosaur egg fossils, Han Dynasty terracotta, Tang sculptures and Ming porcelain figures. 231 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-8098, www.dragonculture.com.hk. JOYCE GALLERY — Specializing in ancient sculptures and archaic bronzes from across China, Joyce displays a collection of antiquities dating to the Shang dynasty, including ancient bronzes, stone carvings, gold and silver ware, jade, pottery and Buddhist works. It guarantees its descriptions of the period and history of its items and offers a full refund if the purchased item does not match the description. Shop 1, 123 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-1869, www.joycegallery.com.
Lam & Co Antiquities
LAM & CO ANTIQUITIES — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silver ware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offers repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services. 2/F, 151 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877.
You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.
14 W H E R E HONG KONG I A u g u s t 2 014
Tel: 2730 1251
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Art+culture | The Guide OI LING ANTIQUES — Oi Ling's Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items dating as far back as the Neolithic era. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2815-9422, www.oilingantiques.com. WATTIS FINE ART — Specializes in antique maps of Asia, and historical photographs and prints of China, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia. 2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302, www.wattis.com.hk.
Galleries 10 CHANCERY LANE GALLERY — Focusing on established and emerging international artists, 10 Chancery Lane consists of two large gallery spaces. It holds exhibitions of sculptures, paintings, photographs, installations and videos, as well as performances by renowned artists. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, SoHo, 2810-0065, www.10chancerylanegallery.com. AGNèS B. LIBRAIRIE GALERIE — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnès b. has a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world. G/F, 118 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2869-5505, www.agnesb.com. ALISAN FINE ARTS — This well-established gallery has organized more than 100 exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world. Run by respected art-world figure Alice King, who has worked with the Guggenheim Museum, it also mounts exhibitions for overseas venues. Room 2305, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091, www.alisan.com.hk. ARCH ANGEL ART GALLERY — Arch angel Art Gallery features a collection of contemporary Vietnamese and Southeast Asian paintings acquired directly from the artists. Some of the paintings are from founder Koos Groot's private collection. 30 Peel St., Central, 2851-6882. AP Contemporary— AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2148, www.apcontemporary.com. ART BEATUS — Established in the early 1990s, Art Beatus features mainly original paintings and art by contemporary Chinese artists. Some of its collection has a retro slant, and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoon as vehicles for expression. G/F, 129133 Wellington St., Central, 2522-1138, www. artbeatus.com. ASIA FINE ART — Dedicated to promoting young Asian artists at affordable prices, this gallery has regular exhibitions of work from China, Vietnam and Indonesia and Myanmar for sale on site and online. Unit H1, 10/F, Kwai Shing Industrial Building (Phase 2), 42-46 Dai Lin Pai Rd., Kwai Chung, 2522-0405, www.asiafineart.com. 16 W H E R E HONG KONG I A u g u s t 2 014
Asia Society Hong Kong
ASIA SOCIETY HONG KONG — Asia Society Hong Kong's big, brand-spankin’-new headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences—97 percent of which are open to the public—the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. Closed Mon. G/F, 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511, www.asiasociety.org/ hong-kong.
ESPACE LOUIS VUITTON — LV has been invading gallery spaces for the past half decade, stirring unrest in the hearts of hard-line art critics but appreciation in the eyes of those beholders who’re able to look past reservations about brand-name commercialism. Espace Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton Mansion, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 8100-1182. GAGOSIAN GALLERY — With 14 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. They opened their doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an all-new exhibition by Damien Hirst—Gagosian only exhibits the crème-de-la-crème of the art world. Closed Mon. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555, www.gagosian.com.
BEN BROWN FINE ARTS — After 10 years at Sotheby’s and two more at a private gallery, Ben Brown and his wife sought to create a space that housed pieces reflective of their tastes—primarily on European modern and contemporary artworks. 301 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2522-9600, www.benbrownfinearts.com. THE CAT STREET GALLERY — Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the world. 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006, www.thecatstreetgallery.com. CONNOISSEUR ART GALLERY — Specializing in contemporary Chinese fine art since 1989, Connoisseur features such acclaimed artists as Paris-based Jia Juan-li, renowned Guangzhou artist Zhang Da-zhong and still life artist Liu Ying-zhao. Shop G3, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2868-5358, www.connoisseur-art.com. CONTEMPORARY BY ANGELA LI — Perhaps best known for introducing Chinese artists Chen Jiagang and Liao Yibai to the art world, CBAL boasts a lovely space and a carefully curated exhibition program. G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3571-8200, www.cbal.com.hk.
De Sarthe Gallery
DE SARTHE GALLERY — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the U.S. and Europe, de Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, Club Lusitano, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896, desarthe.com.
Galerie Du Monde
GALERIE DU MONDE — Galerie du Monde hosts exhibitions by Chinese artists including Li Shuang, Le Longyao, Yu Xiaohui, Hon Chifun and Pan Xun. Its conservation studio provides a complete restoration service for works of art on paper and canvas. Shop 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Center, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529, www.galeriedumonde.com. GROTTO FINE ART — Curated by Henry Au-yeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery represents local artists, with an interest in new and avant-garde art forms. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixedmedia and installation pieces. 2/F, 31C-D Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270, www.grottofineart.com. HANART TZ GALLERY — A specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone. 401 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019, www.hanart.com. Lehmann Maupin Gallery — With the original branch in New York and with its reputation of supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery opened its doors here on March 14. Architect Rem Koolhas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Room 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central. 2530-0025, www.lehmanmaupin.com.
Address: Ground Floor, 1E Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong. (Opposite the Holiday Inn Golden Mile Hotel’s Mody Road entrance) Telephone: 2368-0040, 2723-0056 Email: laelite@netvigator.com 九龍尖沙咀麼地道1E地下 (金域假日酒店麼地道入口對面)
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Art+culture | The Guide SHIN HWA GALLERY — Focusing on Asian contemporary art, Shin Hwa features both upcoming and established artists. It is particularly committed to innovative Korean artists. 32 Aberdeen St., Central, 2803-7960, www.shinhwagallery.com.
Hong Kong Maritime Museum Opera Gallery
OPERA GALLERY — Opera Gallery features works by world-famous international artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Gerard Rancinan and Lita Cabellut, among others. W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-1208, www.operagallery.com. Puerta Roja — Puerta Roja was established to promote Latin American art and artists to the Hong Kong audience. Drawings, etchings, glasswork and sculptures are all featured here. Shop A, G/F, Wai Yue Building, 15-17 New St., Sheung Wan, 2803-0332. PICTURE THIS — The city’s largest affordable art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children’s rooms, and sporting prints. Suite 1308, 13/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820, www.picturethiscollection.com.
White Cube
WHITE CUBE — One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first non-UK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials—for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. Closed Sun-Mon. G-1/F, 50 Connaught Rd. Central, 2592-2000, www.whitecube.com. ZEE STONE GALLERY — Zee Stone, established in 1991, exhibits a wide range of contemporary artists from mainland China, using both ink and color on paper and oil on canvas. The gallery’s exhibitions reflect the rich diversity of contemporary Chinese art, including abstract landscapes, realistic portraits, paintings on rice paper by traditionally trained Chinese masters and new work by a younger generation in acrylic and mixed media. G/F, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2810-5895, www.zeestone.com.
HONG KONG MARITIME MUSEUM — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong's growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier No. 8, 3713-2500, www.hkmaritimemuseum.org. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF ART — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0116, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF HISTORY — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. Closed Tue. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042, hk.history.museum.
Museums
Plum Blossoms Gallery
PLUM BLOSSOMS GALLERY — Recognized for its exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection of museum-quality ancient textiles, Plum Blossoms is an established platform for the promotion of both ancient and modern arts. 14/F, Cheung Tak Building, 30 Heung Yip Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2521-2189, www.plumblossoms.com. Red Square Gallery — Red Square Gallery is a window into Contemporary Russian Art. Expanding into four branches, the gallery is dedicated to bringing creative and dynamic artwork to Hong Kong. Shop 2, G/F, 1A Wong Nai Chung Rd., Happy Valley. 2838-0040, www.redsquare-gallery.com. Main branch in Stanley. 18 W H E R E HONG KONG I A u g u s t 2 014
FLAGSTAFF HOUSE MUSEUM OF TEAWARE — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-inchief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Closed Tue. 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Hong Kong Park, Central, 2869-0690, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG FILM ARCHIVE — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Tuesdays. 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139. HONG KONG HERITAGE MUSEUM — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. It features permanent exhibitions on the New Territories, Cantonese opera and a Children’s Discovery Gallery. Closed Tues. 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188, www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk
Hong Kong Museum Of Medical Sciences
HONG KONG MUSEUM OF MEDICAL SCIENCES — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both Western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Closed Mon. 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels, 2549-5123, www.hkmms.org.hk. LAW UK FOLK MUSEUM — Law Uk, which means “Law’s House” after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. Free admission. Closed Thu. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006, www.hk.history.museum. LEI CHENG UK HAN TOMB MUSEUM — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, this is one of the city’s most fascinating monuments. Closed Thu. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863, hk.history.museum.
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dining | The Guide
Ice Cream Dreams Cool down with a cone. By Cynthia Li and Zoe Lai
Happy Cow
Happy Cow
Ice Cream Gallery
Easy as XTC
Such a Softee
Ice Age
Everything at longtime favorite XTC Gelato is done by hand—fruit peeling, nut toasting, cream mixing—right here in Hong Kong. The artisanal Italian gelato purveyor has made a habit of pumping out innovative flavors: it’s is best known for its Hong Kong-style milk tea gelato, which remixes this old-time favorite for a delicious result.
Mister Softee is beloved by generations of Hongkongers, who fondly remember the icy treat from their childhoods. The 14 Mister Softee vans are likely the only food trucks you will ever find in Hong Kong, since the government stopped issuing hawker licenses in the early 1970s. There are four items on the menu—soft-serve, nutty drumsticks, takeaway “lotus cups” and jumbo orange smoothies—but they all cost under $10. Craving a taste of nostalgia? Follow the the tinkle of the Blue Danube waltz to the truck nearest you.
For freshly churned ice cream with a tech-savvy touch, head to Lab Made, where the team will freeze your treat right in front of your eyes using liquid nitrogen. And with this unconventional method comes equally creative flavors, such as Custard Bun, Sticky Toffee Pudding and Apple Crumble.
Various locations, including B2/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2870-3029.
Various locations, including the Star Ferry Piers in Central and Tsim Sha Tsui.
Cream of the Crop Gluten-free, dairy-free, low glycemic and vegan, Happy Cow ice creams are an alternative for sweet tooths with restricted diets. The homegrown brand started retailing dairy-free ice cream in 2012—all made from scratch with organic and plant-based ingredients. Alongside classic flavors such as mint chocolate chip, you can also find more playful varieties such as chai tea, banana caramel and cherry almond fudge. Retails at various locations, including IPC Foodlab, 38A Caine Rd., Central, 2810-6083. Other locations: www.happycowhk.com.
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La Dolci Vida One of the only places in town to get authentic, slowchurned Italian gelato, 2/3 Dolci sells highquality artisan flavors, such as 83 percent dark chocolate, pistachio, bourbon and caffè latte. The dessert cups are tasty as well—the Chocoholic ($98) is made with chocolate gelato, chocolate chip cookies and egg white croutons for crunch. And its affogato uses Italian roasted espresso and gelato: sounds like double happiness to us.
Various locations, including G/F, 6 Brown St., Tai Hang, 2670-0071.
Ice Crème de la Crème Ice Cream Gallery doles out gourmet French ice creams, using classy and unexpected ingredients such as lobster, black truffle and organic rose chocolate. Aside from the more exploratory efforts, there are also classic chocolate and vanilla flavors, plus a few Japanese options for kicks. Too rich for your taste? Opt for the lighter soft-serve, which is made fresh daily with mille feuille pastry topping. Shop G-16, G/F, 311 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2366-5116.
dining
This Just In Hong Kong food news. By Adele Wong
Eatstreet@Pentalounge
Perfect Place for a Blind Date French Creations group has launched Alchemy in a two-story space on quiet Arbuthnot Road in Central. There’s a bar serving cocktails and snacks on the ground floor, and a completely black room for a dine-in-the-dark experience in the 850-square-foot basement. Alchemy employs visually impaired staff as waiters (just like the folks at charity organization Dialogue in the Dark), and you’ll be relying on the rest of your senses to enjoy and successfully complete your meal. LG-G/F, 16 Arbuthnot Rd., Central, 6821-2801.
San Po Nom Eatstreet@Pentalounge is possibly the most hipster hotel restaurant in the city—and it’s got a new menu and tons of new offerings. Opened last August, Eatstreet ostensibly serves an international buffet, but you can also dig into dim sum steamers, barbecued pork rice and fried noodles at the various food stations. During lunch, there’s an a la carte menu with Cantonese and western options—fans of local movie star Stephen Chow will be happy to know that they can actually order the “Sorrowful Rice” from his hit 1996 film, “The God of Cookery.” Eatstreet’s version comes with char siu, veggies and an additional ingredient: a few slices of
Admiralty
Causeway Bay
Ammo — Western. $$$ Tapas and pastas can be had at this posh Asia Society eatery housed in a former British army magazine compound. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2537-9888.
Hooray — Italian. $$ Al fresco drinks and dining in a casual setting complete with a magnificent harbor view. Shop P502, 5/F, World Trade Center, 280 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2895-0885.
DAN RYAN’S — American. $$$ Dan Ryan’s prides itself on Chicago-style chow. Shop 112, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2845-4600. METROPOL — Dim sum. $ Beef balls, steamed shrimp dumplings, pork-and-shrimp dumplings, stuffed rice rolls and other Hong Kong specialties are wheeled around in traditional trolleys for an authentic dim sum experience. 4/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty, 2865-1988. NICHOLINI’S — Italian. $$$$ This restaurant gets kudos from honest-to-goodness Italians, and that’s good enough for us. 8/F, Conrad International Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2521-3838. PETRUS — French. $$$$ This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The décor is a bit ostentatious, but the opulence suits the magnificent view. 56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2820-8590.
Alchemy
IPPUDO — Ramen. $ Japan’s famous chain serves ramen in bowls so enormous they should be called cauldrons, with a meaty, savory broth, tender pork pieces, springy noodles and tangy spring onions topped with fungus and bean sprouts. 2/F, 8 Russell St., 2892-2387. MANGO TREE — Thai. $$-$$$ Somehow, in the middle of bustling Causeway Bay, in a high-rise chock-full of other restaurants and bars, Mango Tree manages to be an oasis of dim lighting, carefully placed flowers and good Thai food. 5/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-0828. Sorabol — Korean. $$ The smell wafting from the open barbecues in the middle of each table will get your appetite going— which is a good thing, since you’ll want to try everything. 18/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival St., 2881-6823.
Alchemy
spam. From now until the end of August, Eatstreet is also offering a seafood buffet promotion that includes all-you-can-eat oysters, snow crab, mussels and other delectable shellfish from $418-458 per person. Book ahead! Pentahotel Hong Kong, 19 Luk Hop St., San Po Kong, 3112-8222.
Tott’s — Modern Asian/Western. $$$-$$$$ Sophisticated décor, harbor-view seats, and perfectly crafted entrees are the hallmark here. The attentive service also deserves special mention. 34/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., 2837-6786.
Central & Lan Kwai Fong AMBER — Modern French. $$$$ Modern, inventive French cuisine meets attentiongrabbing decor. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066. Brickhouse — Mexican. $$. Imagine street-side Mexican combined with hipster-chic décor and upbeat music. Phone reservations not allowed and queues form quickly at peak hours so early arrival recommended. G/F, 20A D’Aguilar St., 2810-0560. Boqueria — Spanish. $$$ Feast on tasty tapas and bomba rice paellas at this chain from New York. 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2321-8681.
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dining | The Guide CAPRICE — French. $$$$ Three Michelin Stars. Splurge on haute cuisine at this French restaurant helmed by chef Fabrice Vulin. The gorgeous interior includes floor-to-ceiling windows. 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8860.
LIN HEUNG Lau— Cantonese. $$ The setup has changed little in more than 50 years and it still remains a popular hangout for those craving a bit of old Hong Kong nostalgia and really, really good food. Most people come here for daytime dim sum, but dinner’s great too. 160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556.
ZUMA — Japanese. $$$$ This is one goodlooking restaurant, split over two floors and linked by a sumptuous staircase. It’s the local branch of London’s famed eatery,offering a sophisticated twist on the traditional izakaya. 5-6/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3657-6388.
The Peak THE PEAK LOOKOUT — International. $$$ Offering an alfresco terrace with a view, this restaurant features an open, bright and airy environment—more like a mountain lodge than a country club—and excellent fare. 121 Peak Rd., 2849-1000. Duddell’s
CHINA Tang — Chinese. $$$$. Sir David Tang’s latest Chinese fine-dine offers top delicacies from Beijing, Sichuan and Guangdong in a luxurious setting. Shop 411-413, 4/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2522-2148. Duddell’s — Cantonese. $$$. Serves Chinese fusion by former T’ang Court chef Siu Hin-chi. The art pieces on display are another highlight. Levels 3 & 4, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., 2525-9191.
Lung King Heen
LUNG KING HEEN — Cantonese. $$$-$$$$ Three Michelin Stars. The name means “view of the dragon” and the floor-to-ceiling windows make the case. Stylish décor, flawless service and traditional as well as innovative dishes only add to the appeal. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8880.
Fatty Crab — Southeast Asian. $$$. A branch of the popular Fatty Crab Restaurant in New York. Expect a delectable mix of South-East Asian flavors. 11-13 Old Bailey St., 2521-2033. INAGIKU — Japanese. $$$ The Hong Kong branch of one of Japan’s oldest and bestknown restaurants, it lives up to the buzz: authentic, delicious and quiveringly fresh. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 2805-0600. ISOLA BAR & GRILL — Italian. $$$$ The glam factor is off the scale, with stunning harbor views and high ceilings, not to mention handmade pastas, pizzas, risottos and more. Shop 3071-75, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., 2383-8765.
Repulse Bay SPICES — Pan-Asian. $$$ Below a glassy high-rise, this restaurant is devoted to showcasing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East.” It also offers a fantastic view of the South China Sea and the sandy shores below. G/F, The Arcade, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2821. THE VERANDAH — Continental/International. $$$ Book brunch in time to get a seat at this popular spot. On other days, the a la carte menu never disappoints. Closed Mon. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2822.
SoHo
Mott 32
Mott 32 — Chinese. $$$$ This dark and moody basement restaurant offers Peking duck and other classic Chinese dishes. B/F, Standard Chartered Bank Building, 4-4A Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2885-8688. pierre — French. $$$$ Masterminded by three-Michelin-star chef Pierre Gagnaire, this is a bastion of fine French dining. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4001.
JASHAN — Indian. $$ Immediately impressive, with dim lighting, vermilion walls and colonial furnishings, Jashan offers an extensive menu, delicious food and hotel-level service. 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., 3105-5300. POSTO PUBBLICO — American Italian. $$$ Hip Greenwich Village types come to get their fill of such dishes as veal meatballs and sandwiches of homemade mozzarella, eggplant and lashings of balsamic vinegar. G/F, 28 Elgin St., 2577-7160.
L’Atelier De Joel Robuchon
L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON — French. $$$$ The Frenchman named “Chef of the Century” by Gault Millau designs authentic dishes with exquisite finesse and precision, which are then turned out by highly trained chefs in the open kitchen. Shop 315 & 401, 3-4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2166-9000.
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Sevva
SEVVA — Contemporary. $$$$ The brainchild of local socialite Bonnie Gokson, this 22,000-square-foot penthouse restaurant comes with a buzzing wraparound terrace. The elegant eatery serves dishes drawn from Cantonese, Shanghainese, Indian and British culinary concepts. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., 2537-1388.
Yardbird
YARDBIRD — Yakitori. $$$ This is a no-frills yet achingly modern two-story yakitori joint in a trendy corner of the district. The skewers are mostly chicken-based, and taken from every part of the chicken’s body from the heart to the skin. Don’t forget to sample the house sake. 33-35 Bridges St., 2547-9273.
dining
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Tsim Sha Tsui
Angelini
ANGELINI — Italian. $$$-$$$$ With Italian native Marco Medaglia at the helm, Angelini serves up unpretentious food, with an emphasis on ingredients air-freighted from Italy three times a week. Also has a great harbor view. Mezzanine, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., 2733-8750. FELIX — Fusion. $$$$ Still one of the swankiest restaurants in town, with Philippe Starck décor, modern food and famous bathrooms. It’s glam, contemporary and kid-free. 28/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, 2696-6778. FOOK LAM MOON — Cantonese. $$$$ Devotees swear this place serves the best Cantonese cuisine in the world. It’s been the place to go for southern Chinese delicacies for more than five decades. 53-59 Kimberley Rd., 2366-0286. HUTONG — Northern Chinese. $$$$ Dark wood furnishings and a fabulous harbor view make for a modern-day Chinese dining hall. The food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., 3428-8342. MORTON’S OF CHICAGO — Steak. $$$$ With huge slabs of prime, aged beef accompanied by what looks like the winning entries in a hard-fought vegetable show, Morton’s is one of the best steak restaurants in Hong Kong. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., 2732-2343.
Nobu
NOBU — Japanese. $$$$ Mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution, this famous restaurant deserves the hype. Sushi is a must, as is the amazing black cod. 2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323. Ruth’s Chris — Steak. $$$$ American steakhouse, with USDA Prime cuts served alongisde rich sides like spinach au gratin and tempura onion rings. Shop 108-110, 1/F, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2366-6000.
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dining | The Guide YE SHANGHAI — Shanghainese. $$$ With upscale cuisine served in shareable portions, this is the place for Shanghainese dishes like camphor-smoked duck with pancakes. Also known for its interior full of fabulous chinoiserie. 6/F, The Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, 3 Canton Rd., 2376-3322.
Wan Chai
Spoon
Whisk — Modern European. $$$ Whisk is known for its contemporary European dishes and extensive wine list that is relatively more affordable than other fine diners. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., 2368-1111.
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MADAM SIXTY Ate — European. $$$ At this posh eclectic eatery, an open kitchen faces the diners, with chefs readying exquisitely prepared dishes scurrying around. Shop 8, 1/F, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-2558. THE PAWN — British. $$$ Serving fabulous food in a faithful restoration of an 1888 landmark building, The Pawn houses a bar and a restaurant with a roof and a breezy balcony overlooking Johnston Road. The menu has modern British fare with a luxurious twist. 2/F, 62 Johnston Rd., 2866-3444.
SPOON — French. $$$$ Chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows, a fabulous harbor view and an innovative modern menu. Lobby, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323. T’ANG COURT — Cantonese. $$$$ This little gem serves some of the city’s finest Cantonese cuisine. 1/F, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., 2132-7898.
Catalunya — Spanish. $$$$This 7,500 square feet of restaurant and bar space offers Catalan-style dishes such as roasted suckling pig and lobster rice. G/F, Guardian House, 32 Oi Kwan Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-7900.
Bo Innovation
BO INNOVATION — Chinese. $$$-$$$$ Experimental cuisine pairing local ingredients with delicacies imported from across the world. Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., 2850-8371.
WOOLOOMOOLOO — Australian/New Zealand. $$$ This steakhouse is several places at once: a laid-back wine bar and a casual drinks terrace on the rooftop, and a fine -dining steakhouse below. 31/F-Rooftop, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960.
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Drinks | The Guide
Bottoms Up A new alfresco bar in Central is the talk of the town. By Andrea Lo
The Buzz: Tastings, the group that brought us the likes of Quinary, Angel’s Share and Origin in Central, have now set up shop in boutique hotel Pottinger. The Envoy is a stylish venue in an unbeatable location with a touch of colonial influence. Tea makes a frequent appearance in the cocktails: a tip of the hat to the city’s first governor Sir Henry Pottinger, who had a hand in establishing Hong Kong as a major shipping port. The Décor: The Envoy has a theme similar to its sister outlets—it has a distinctly intimate feel, without the
Bars & Clubs
stuffiness you might expect of a hotel bar. A long, wooden bar comes complete with low-hanging lights and an extensive stock of liquors and tea leaves. Beyond the bar and the adjoining restaurant, you’ll find the airy terrace, with a buzzing view of Queen’s Road Central below. The Drinks: The signature cocktails at The Envoy really are beautiful creations, with one-of-a-kind presentations. Kick things off with the refreshing Dewdrops of the Heart, prepared in a Perlini carbonated cocktail shaker with vodka, green tea and jasmine double-strength
Azure — Stunning view, minimalist blue décor and great cocktails. 29/F, LKF Hotel, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 3518-9330. Beijing Club — This impressive megaclub recently celebrated its sixth anniversary and is the biggest in town. Expect wet-look vinyl walls, gold-plated bathrooms and a youthful crowd. 2-3/F & 5/F, Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9983.
Angel’s Share
121BC — This import from Sydney, Australia offers biodynamic wines from Italian producers. 42-44 Peel St., Central, 2395-0200. ANGEL’S SHARE — This unique drinking loft is specifically designed for whisky lovers. Sourced from Scotland to Japan, there’s enough aged golden liquid here to suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-8388. AQUA spirit — For cocktails with a killer vista, you can do no better than this swanky high-rise venue with an eagle’s eye view of the harbor. 30/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288.
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Blckbrd — This chilled-out spot has an official “no loud music” policy, making it the perfect place for a few low-key drinks. Located on the sixth floor, the outdoor terrace is a serene place to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2545-8555. BLUE BAR — The upscale Blue Bar is a big hit with the cocktail set. Yes, the martinis are worth getting dressed up for. Lobby, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8888. Café Gray Deluxe — Beside the seductively stretched bar are cozy booths for intimate lounging, and its 49th-floor perch guarantees breathtaking harbor views. Cocktail lovers should try the Hong Kong
tea, jasmine flowers, and homemade pandan syrup. Meanwhile, the Birds of a Feather makes for an ideal apéritif: Talisker 10-year-old whisky, blueberry and pomegranate tea syrup, wild blueberry jam, malt essence and lemon juice. Be sure to try the Dinosaur: a pile of Milo powder sits atop an ice ball, with Godiva chocolate liqueur, milk and vodka. 3/F, The Pottinger Hong Kong, 74 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2169-3311.
Highball. 49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. Central Wine Club — This exclusive spot on Wyndham Street was designed with oenophiles in mind. Luxe, modern Baroque surrounds keep pace with the slow jazz and contemporary tunes. 3/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2147-3448. CLUB @28 — This stylish bar has killer views, deadly cocktails and its very own outdoor oasis called The Pavilion. It’s members only, but you can join on arrival and it’s free. 28/F, Crowne Plaza Hotel, 8 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 3980-3300. DRAGON-I — Watch the bold and the beautiful work the celeb-studded room. It’s usually packed with models, especially on Wednesday nights. Podium, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 3110-1222. EXECUTIVE BAR — So quiet that the sound of a ninja’s sword slicing through silk would be cause for shushing. Well, not really, but it is quiet, Japanese and well-stocked with Scotch— the drink of the introspective man. 27/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 6710-2057.
For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at bars, restaurants and coffee shops).
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Drinks GRAPPA’S CELLAR — This bustling after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians. B/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322.
Jaa Bar
Jaa Bar — Located in a small alleyway off of Peel Street, Jaa Bar combines comfort and charm for an exclusive experience. The centerpiece of the ornate enclave is a custom-made wooden bar pieced together from classical furniture pieces. 1 Pak Tsz Lane, Central, 2815-8887.
MO BAR — The bar at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental is a sleek, upscale addition to the nightlife scene. G/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0077. Ozone — Located 118 floors above the ground, this watering hole boasts a superlative title: the highest bar in Hong Kong. This nightspot is a must-see, especially due to its drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2263.
The Lawn — This outdoor garden is a genuine urban oasis, exuding a serene, intimate vibe and illuminated entirely by a few candles. 6/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106.
Quinary — Grab molecular cocktails in a chilledout lounge off Hollywood Road. Be impressed by local mixologist Antonio Lai’s creative drinks list. G/F, 56-58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-3223.
The Parlour — The kitschy-chic bar sits betwixt the equally droll west and east dining rooms, and looks like an exotic dive in 70s London Chinatown. Hullet House, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3988-0101.
KEE CLUB — A good concierge should be able to get you into this exclusive members-only club, where you can sip a cocktail and check out the Picassos, antiques and colonial-style service. 6/F, Yeung Kee Building, 32 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9000. L’etage — With the feel of a true gentlemen’s club, this is a place for refined Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a traditionally made cocktail in one hand and a cigar in another. It’s worth coming back just to watch head bartender Katsuhisa Hirakawa hand-carve spheres of ice for whisky. 22/F, Macau Yat Yuen Centre, 525 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2522-5300. LE BOUDOIR — This Francophone hangout is all sultry drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery. The cocktails are stellar, too. B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central, 2530-3870. LILY — Get buzzed in and out of Lily’s fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. Aesthetes will be delighted that so much attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166. Lion Rock — Lion Rock is the place to unwind and relax while having one (or more) of 193 signature cocktails. Enjoy the awesome view and weekly wine and whisky tastings. 3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel, 193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Mong Kok, 2622-6167. M BAR — Set against the heights of Hong Kong’s skyline, the Mandarin Oriental’s M Bar makes for a ravishingly chic hangout. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4002. Martini BAR — This stylish hotel bar has nightly entertainment, a range of cocktails beyond just martinis and is one of the few cigar lounges in town. G/F, The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2733-2995. MCSORLEY’S ALE HOUSE — Woody, Irish and vaguely Victorian, McSorley’s is the biggest pub in SoHo. 55 Elgin St., Central, 2522-2646.
The Lawn
The Pawn Red Bar
RED BAR — Located on a terrace atop IFC Mall, this funky destination bar has a breathtaking public outdoor area with harbor views. 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882. RIEDEL ROOM — The world’s first Riedel Room offers exclusive wines to be enjoyed in Riedel crystal glassware. Lobby, JW Marriott Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2841-3836.
THE PAWN — The modern British restaurant and bar, a former pawn shop, has an outdoor balcony from which to enjoy a view of Hong Kong’s 100-year-old trams. 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444. The Tonno — This complex features a bar, a clubbing zone, a restaurant, a live music lounge and karaoke rooms, taking “allaround entertainment” to a whole new level. Head here for an epic marathon of dancing, drinking, Elton John hits, dart games and Shanghainese buns. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.
Sake Bar Ginn — Sake sommelier Ayuchi Momose is behind this upper-floor bar. In addition to serving 100 types of sake and 30 Japanese tapas, she also imports special sakes by microbreweries. Shop 4C, 4/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2536-4355. Salon de Ning — Decadent Shanghai art deco lounge with live music Tue-Thu. UG/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6705.
Vibes
SHORE — A chill outdoor space and one of the most extensive drinks selections in town. Newly renovated. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2915-1638.
VIBES — The Mira hotel’s svelte alfresco drinks venue is home to a stunning secret garden. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5999.
Staunton’s — Considered the best “peoplewatching spot” in Hong Kong, Staunton’s has the right equation for a chill evening drink. It also has an eclectic menu. 10-12 Staunton St., Central, 2973-6611.
VOLAR — Frequented by models and wannabes, Volar can be exclusive, but you can dance the night away to top DJs. B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510.
SUGAR — Sink into one of the sofas at this swanky rooftop bar and enjoy the amazing views of the harbor. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Quarry Bay, 3968-3738.
WOOLOOMOOLOO — This steakhouse outlet boasts a gorgeous rooftop with stunning views of Victoria Harbour and the Happy Valley horse racing track. 31/F, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960. A u g u s t 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 27
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ShopS+Services | The Guide
Buy Local
Shopping Centers
These loud-and-proud Hong Kong items make the perfect souvenirs. By Katie Kenny
APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. Millennium City 5, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 3148-1200.
Chinese dining set for two, $980, Mariko Jesse for Tree
Elements
ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous roof garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234.
Mailbox bag, $228, Mall852.com
HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8601.
Red, white and blue bag, $680, RWB330
Hysan Place
HYSAN PLACE — This mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of high-quality dining options. 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222.
Dim sum ordering guide by Liza Chu, $98, Page One
Page One Shop 922, 9/F, Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2506-0381. Tree 22 Elgin St., Central, 2841-8844. Cat Street Antique Market Upper Lascar Road.
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Two Girls campaign poster, $TBC, Cat Street Antique Market
RWB330 192 Prince Edward Rd. West, Mong Kok, 2392-5330. Mall852.com Shop H313, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., 3173-9878, www.mall852.com.
IFC Mall
IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international highend brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308. HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089.
Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.
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ShopS+Services | The Guide ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2890-6823. THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols. 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3428-8086. LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mongkok, 3514-9088, www.langhamplace.com.hk. LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-2166, www.hysan.com.hk.
Daydream Nation — A locally grown label that incorporates fashion with other art forms like theater, dance, music, film and visual arts. They offer their own collection of clothing and accessories as well as works from local artists and indie bands. Daydream Nation Circus Shop, 2/F, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2817-6313.
Wudai Shiguo — This shop in the trendy Star Street neighborhood is a collaboration between a group of local designers and stocks Americanstyle fashion and accessories. 9B1 St. Francis St., Wan Chai, 2528-3800.
Department Stores G.O.D.
G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876.
Squarestreet
Squarestreet — Seriously hipster shoes and accessories. G/F, 15 Square St., Sheung Wan, 2362-1086. Lane Crawford
One Peking — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier. 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3417-3000. Rise Commercial Building — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-4723. TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 13-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket City’super, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.
Tang Tang Tang Tang
LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with must-have designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388.
Tang tang tang tang — Sir David Tang's casual lifestyle store stocks everything from rice cookers to pyjamas. G/F, 66 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2525-2112. Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist. Shop 209, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-0238.
Shops, Boutiques and Local Designers
Walter Ma — Well-established designer offering luxury fashion. 174 Wellington St., Central, 2838-7655.
Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men. Shop 123, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2104-7934.
Western Market — An Edwardian-styled building with restaurants and shops selling Chinese crafts and fabrics. 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 6029-2675.
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Joyce
JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 28101120; Shop 232, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944; Shop 106, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-8128.
Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place
PRINCE’S BUILDING — Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkway to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uberfashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket. 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2500-0555.
Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant— the Fourth Floor —and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388.
Kapok — Offers meticulously selected international and local brands for menswear, womenswear, bags and accessories, as well as lifestyle products. G/F, 5, St Francis Yard, Wan Chai, 2549-9254. SPY Henry Lau — Edgy and bold fashion for men and women. G/F, 64 Lee Garden Rd., Causeway Bay, 2317-6928.
PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8900.
Wudai Shiguo
Shanghai Tang SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.
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ShopS+Services | The Guide SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.
SPAS CHUAN SPA — This stunning spa focuses on the individual needs of each client through traditional Chinese medicine and theories, including yin and yang. Its consultants are qualified in Chinese medicine, massage and naturopathy. 41/F, Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3510, www.chuanspa.com.
and an extensive range of facial and body treatments in 23 rooms and suites. Other facilities include a 50-meter outdoor pool, fitness and exercise studios, a poolside grill restaurant and a tree-lined courtyard. 11/F, Grand Hyatt, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2588-1234, www.hongkong.grand.hyatt.com.
The Swank
THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freestanding boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-0842.
Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. Shop 220, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2735-4061. YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 301-309 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3511-2222.
Tailors DAVID FASHIONs — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884. L & K bespoke Tailor — G/F, Mirador Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278. Nita Fashions — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim vSha Tsui. 2721-9990, www.nitafashions.com. Punjab House — 5/F, Suite C, Golden Crown Court, 66-70 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612, www.punjabhouse.com.hk. Raja Fashions — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624, www.raja-fashions.com.
Flawless
FLAWLESS — This all-in-one shop offers makeup and nail services as well as spa treatments in a spacious upper-level venue. 4/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2869-5868. IYARA DAY SPA — This Central institution offers everything from manis and pedis to facials, waxing and massage treatments. 1/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2545-8638. KIWI SPA — With light green glass, curved walls and soft light and gentle music, Kiwi offers quality foot and body massages that are affordable at the same time. iPads and headsets are available to use at your leisure while you're enjoying the treatments. 14/F, Century Square Building, 1-13 D'Aguilar St., Central, 2567-1333, www.kiwi-hk.com. MANDARIN SPA — This luxe retreat has eight private treatment rooms, including two couples’ suites, each with private steam shower and pool. Its therapies combine ancient and contemporary techniques, and specialist practitioners offer treatments that incorporate ayurvedic philosophies and traditional Chinese medicine. 24/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4888, www.mandarinoriental.com/hongkong. MEN’S SKIN CENTRE BY BELLA — This center has tailor-made treatments that focus on deep cleansing, acne treatment, and rehydration to brighten and improve your complexion. It also offers laser hair removal services. 9/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-6352, www.bellaskin.com. MIRASPA — It’s pampering for the 21st century. The Mira Spa is comfortably futuristic, with purple and pure white accents and an indoor pool decorated with twinkling lights. Facilities include a jacuzzi plus steam and sauna rooms— and nifty waterbeds in the pre-treatment room. B3/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5500, www.themirahotel.com.
REGAL fashion — G/F, Shop 15, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-6007. Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 90-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423. Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1251. 32 W H E R E HONG KONG I A u g u s t 2 014
Plateau Spa
PLATEAU SPA — This whopping 80,000-squarefoot spa offers overnight accommodation
Sense Of Touch
SENSE OF TOUCH — This award-winning day spa boasts an extensive menu, featuring such services as a couple’s deep tissue and detoxifying massage, a rose hydrating cocoon body wrap and a “forever young” facial. The lush spa also offers a range of exclusive signature treatments, including the Elemis hot stone therapy for body and face. 1-5/F, 52 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2526-6918, www.senseoftouch.com.hk. THE PENINSULA SPA BY ESPA — This twofloor spa has sweeping harbor views. Designed by Henry Leung, the interior fuses contemporary and traditional Chinese elements. Much attention has been given to detail, including 100-percent Egyptian cotton robes and fully automated Clodagh Gemini treatment beds. 7/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2969-6682, www.hongkong.peninsula.com.
The Ritz-Carlton Spa
THE RITZ-CARLTON SPA BY ESPA — Get pampered at the highest hotel spa in the world. Located on the 116th floor, this relaxing retreat looms over the city and offers majestic views of Victoria Harbour. Spa guests can also take a dip in the hotel's sky-high infinity pool after their treatments. 116/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2040, www.ritzcarlton.com /hongkong. THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS — This urban sanctuary is everything you would expect from the Four Seasons: 22,000 square feet of sumptuousness, including Finnish saunas, an ice fountain, a crystal fountain, vitality pools and an amethyst crystal steam room. Two spa suites include a pool for two, day beds and a private bar. 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8900, www.fourseasons.com/hongkong.
ShopS+Services
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TEN FEET TALL — Go to Ten Feet Tall for a slightly different foot massage experience in an exotic ambience. The foot massage center features bright and sunny beach cabanas with pine, bamboo, natural marble and bright décor. The place’s signature treatments include genuine foot reflexology, shoulder and neck massage, pressure point massage and aromatic oil massage. 20-21/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2971-1010, www.tenfeettall.com.hk.
HAIR AIMEE AT THE SHANGRI-LA — Staffed by international stylists offering everything from bridal makeovers, haircuts, coloring and waves to manicures, pedicures and professional makeup application. 8/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-1339. AIRPLAY BLOW DRY BAR — Get your hair and makeup done all at once at Airplay, and choose from different looks like “Sea Breeze” (wavy hair) or “Mojito” (playful curls). 7/F, W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2641-9888, www.airplaybar.com. QG PRIVATE I SALON — Located in the Four Seasons, the flagship of the Private I group is suitably beautiful, with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out onto an astounding harbor view. Expect to find yourself rubbing shoulders with politicians, tycoons and the jet set. 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 2521-0070, www.privatei.com.hk.
NAILS NAIL NAIL — This is the place for innovative nails, including gel nails, airbrushing and the truly decadent one-carat diamond manicure, which is by appointment only. It also offers waxing and temporary tattoos. Shop 1091A, 1/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2366-9322, www.nailnail.com.hk.
NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT!
NAIL SPA — Nail services and treatments for men and women are the specialty here, including French manicures and paraffin foot therapy. Gel and acrylic nails are available along with nail painting, embossed nail art, semi-precious gemstones, crystal embossing and graduated nail painting. 1/F, 8 Pak Sha Rd., Causeway Bay, 2478-9333, www.nailspa.com.hk.
Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418
www.outback.com.hk
Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823
Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan
Whampoa
The Loft
THE LOFT — A spin-off of The Nail Library in Sheung Wan, this new Central shop right by the escalators offers men’s barbering services, facials as well as hand and foot spa treatments—and of course, manicures and pedicures. 2/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2618-8623.
Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai
Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay
Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728
Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918
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Navigate | The Guide
Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call the Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions, plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals, as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.
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Get Moving
Octopus Cards
Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.
These are “wave-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.
Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English, but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.
The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $48, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.
Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.
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Navigate Buses Hong Kong has two major bus companies:
One Stop Shop
Kowloon Motor Bus — 2745-4466, www.kmb.hk. citybus / New World First BUS — 2136-8888/2873-0818, www.nwstbus.com.hk.
Sights & Attractions
Aberdeen Street Social
As the PMQ (see p.9) creative hub in Central officially opens its doors, Zoe Lai and Cynthia Li take a closer look at just a few of the shops and spaces that you need to see in Central’s new coolest hangout.
Bamboa Home Bamboa’s founder Julia Washbourne uses sustainable, eco-friendly bamboo to create everything from kitchenware and bathroom accessories to clothing. Not only are bamboo products good for the environment, the brand also does its bit to enact social change: part of the proceeds go to environmental projects that help protect the planet’s biodiversity, alleviate deforestation and pull workers out of poverty. S304, 2291-0285, www.bamboahome.com.
Aberdeen Street Social Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton and entrepreneur Yenn Wong have collaborated for the third time to launch Aberdeen Street Social, bringing their take on modern British cuisine to the hipsters of Hong Kong. The two-story venue is separated into three sections: a restaurant, cocktail bar and café, and each area has its own unique décor and atmosphere. If you can’t commit to a full-on meal, stop by for a cocktail or enjoy a piece of cake in the outdoor café. JPC, 2866-0300, www.aberdeenstreetsocial.com.
Harrison Wong Local menswear designer Harrison Wong produces edgy, aggressive designs with an understated elegance. His inspirations are mainly drawn from abstract and geometrical art of midcentury America, infused with his own signature minimalism. S206, 6211-6680, www.harrisonwong.com.
Aly & Rachelle A graduate of Central Saint Martins, designer Christine Lam has created a line of high quality yet affordable clothing that speaks to modern Hong Kong women. The current spring/summer collection features versatile and feminine numbers. Think LBDs with a modern twist and flowing chiffon tops. S411, 9665-6065, www.alyandrachelle.com.
Home.Works Home.Works is a concept store that encourages mindful living. The “Life is…” series has something for everybody, from leather-bound notebooks that would make great gifts, to the homemade cream soap bar and liquid soaps. S506, www.home-works.org.
AVENUE OF STARS — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes’ handprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars. There's also a statue of martial artist Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly Symphony of Lights. It's the only place where music plays over loudspeakers, although the light display can be seen around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront. BANK OF CHINA TOWER — I. M. Pei designed this 70-story building and bank headquarters to resemble stalks of bamboo. 1 Garden Rd., Central.
Big Buddha
BIG BUDDHA — One of the world’s largest Buddhas, the Tian Tan Buddha took 12 years to build and sits on a lotus throne atop Lantau Island. The more than 200 steps to the top are open from 10am to 6pm daily and definitely recommended for the spectacular mountain views. Special admission tickets are available and include a vegetarian meal. Also check out the nearby Po Lin Monastery and the Wisdom Path. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and then Bus 23 to Ngong Ping. CHI LIN NUNNERY — An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It’s a 23,600-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1997. It’s centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds. Vegetarian food is available. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888. CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE — Finished in time to host the handover ceremony in July 1997, the center’s roof was designed to look like a seabird’s wings in flight. 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, 2582-8888. HONG KONG DISNEYLAND — Take a trip back to the 1900s on Main Street, catch a train to Fantasyland, float down the Rivers of Adventure, catch a show or blast through outer space in Tomorrowland. When you’re done charting your exotic surroundings take a moment to dine, shop or cavort with the various Disney characters who roam the park. It’s easy to get to via MTR, bus or car. See park.hongkongdisneyland. com for transportation details. Lantau Island, 1-830-830. A u g u s t 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 35
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Navigate | The Guide
Hong Kong Dolphinwatch — Catch a glimpse of the pink dolphins, an animal so unique to these waters that it was named the official mascot of Hong Kong’s 1997 handover. Tours depart every Wed, Fri and Sun from the Kowloon Hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui at 9am, or from Tung Chung. The cruise takes up to five hours, and if no dolphins are seen, the company provides a free “go-again guarantee.” $380 for adults, $190 for children under 12, $50 for babies under 3, with proceeds going to dolphin research. Call 2984-1414 or visit www.hkdolphinwatch.com.
Sam’s The Man
HONG KONG ZOOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL GARDENS — Home to 12 endangered species, the zoo successfully breeds rare birds and orangutans. Established in 1871, the park retains all the Victorian accents from that era and is an idyllic spot in the middle of the city. Admission free. Open daily 6am-7pm. Garden Rd., Central. A staircase from Upper Albert Rd. leads to the main entrance.
(Just ask his customers)
OPEN-TOP BUS TOUR — One Big Bus day tour ticket includes 24-hour hop-on-hop-off access to the red tour (Hong Kong Island) and the blue tour (Kowloon), as well as prerecorded commentary in 10 languages and other perks. Unit KP-38, 1/F, Kowloon Star Ferry Pier, Tsim Sha Tsui, 3102-9021.
Peak Tram
PEAK TRAM AND VICTORIA PEAK — The world’s steepest funicular railway hauls passengers up Victoria Peak in approximately eight minutes. Once at the top, enjoy panoramic views of the city, or check out the restaurants, shops and various attractions at the Peak Galleria and Peak Tower. The tram runs daily 7am-midnight, tickets $28 one-way, $40 round trip. Garden Road and Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2522-0922. SIK SIK YUEN WONG TAI SIN TEMPLE — This active Buddhist temple is large and colorful with beautiful adjoining gardens. Have your fortune told by palm readers in the main arcade. Open 7am-5:30pm. A small donation is expected. Follow signs from Wong Tai Sin MTR station. 2327-8141.
Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon. Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147
Man Mo Temple
MAN MO TEMPLE — This temple was built in 1847 to honor the God of Literature, Man Cheong, and the God of War, Mo Tai. A Grade 1 historical building, it is one of biggest tourist attractions in Central. 124-126 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan.
Star Ferry
STAR FERRY — Cross Victoria Harbour between Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon Peninsula on the Star Ferry. These open-deck ferries are one of Hong Kong’s most recognizable attractions and a common, cheap—and pleasant—form of transportation. Take the MTR to Central or Tsim Sha Tsui and follow the signs.
Ngong Ping 360
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NGONG PING 360 — Home to a theater, teahouse, nature center, cultural themed village and more, Ngong Ping 360 is best known for its 5.7-kilometer cable-car service that offers panoramic views of Lantau Island’s lush valleys, the South China Sea and the world-famous Tian Tan Buddha. Start from Tung Chung Station, 3666-0606. OCEAN PARK — Pay a visit to Hong Kong’s two pandas, take a cable car, then prepare for a good scream on Ocean Park's Turbo Drop thrill ride. Remember to check out the Grand Aquarium as well. Aberdeen, 3923-2323.
ST. JOHN’S CATHEDRAL — A beautiful cathedral built in the shape of a cross. Open daily from 7am to 6pm for quiet prayer and meditation. Take the MTR to Central Station Exit K.
Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery
TEN THOUSAND BUDDHAS MONASTERY — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800
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Buddhas stored in three temples, four pavilions and a five-story pagoda. The one that you’re likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk Yuet Kai, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin MTR, Exit B, 2691-1067, www.10kbuddhas.org. TAI O — This charming fishing village is a maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the very tip of Lantau Island. It’s a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, the picturesque Tin Hau Temple and a couple of interesting little museums. Take a ferry from Central.
Embassies & Consulates Argentina 2523-3208; Australia 2827-8881; Bangladesh 2827-4278; Belgium 2524-3111; Brazil 2525-7002; Canada 3719-4700; Chile 2827-1826; China (China Travel) 2853-3888; Colombia 2545-8547; Czech Republic 2802-2212; Egypt 2827-0668; Finland 2525-5385; France 3752-9900; Germany 2105-8788; Greece 2774-1682; India 3970-9900; Israel 2821-7500; Italy 2522-0033; Japan 2522-1184; Korea 25294141; Laos 2544-1186; Malaysia 2821-0800; Mexico 2511-3305; Netherlands 25229200; New Zealand 2525-5044; Pakistan 2827-0295; Philippines 2823-8501; Peru 2868-2622; Poland 2840-0779; Russia 2877-7188; Singapore 2527-2212; Spain 2525-3041; Sweden 2521-1212; Switzerland 3509-5000; Taiwan 2530-1187; Thailand 2521-6481; Turkey 2572-1331; United Arab Emirates 2866-1823; United Kingdom 2901-3000; USA 2523-9011; Venezuela 2730-8099; Vietnam 2591-4510.
Financial Matters Generally, business hours are weekdays 9am-5pm, with a lunch hour from 1pm2pm, and Saturdays 9am-1pm. The local currency is the Hong Kong dollar. There is no central mint; instead, notes are issued by three separate private banks and the city’s Monetary Authority. The Hong Kong dollar is pegged to the US dollar at a rate of approximately US$1 to HK$7.75. Denominations include $10, $20, $50, $100, $500 and $1,000 notes. Coins come in denominations of 10, 20 and 50 cents, and one, two, five and 10 dollars. BANKS — Major banks are open weekdays 9am-4:30pm, and Saturdays 9am12:30pm. Banks are closed Sundays and public holidays. Some services, such as foreign exchange-related transactions, are not available at banks one hour before closing. The following details are for the banks’ main offices, call for retail locations: Bank of America, 41/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 2847-5222; Citibank, Citibank Tower, 3 Garden Rd., Central, 2868-8888; HSBC, 1 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2233-3000; Standard Chartered Bank, 4 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2886-8868. A u g u s t 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 37
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Walking Tours | The Guide
A Stroll Through Time
Wing Lok Street This street is lined with specialty shops selling ginseng and bird’s nest. At the end of Wing Lok Street, turn left onto Des Voeux Road West.
Des Voeux Road West Walking through Sheung Wan and Central, discover two areas where the hustle and bustle of a modern city mingle with colorful, age-old traditions.
Start at the Sheung Wan MTR station. Take exit B, turn right and walk about three minutes.
Western Market An Edwardian-style building built in 1906, this grand building is now a historical monument full of themed shops, tailors and restaurants. Walk along Morrison Street and turn right into Wing Lok Street.
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Discover the surprising varieties of exotic dried seafood available on this street. Walk along Des Voeux Road West and turn left onto Ko Shing Street.
Ko Shing Street This is the wholesale center of Hong Kong’s thriving herbal medicine trade. Walk back to Des Voeux Road West, turn right into Bonham Strand West and
Former Central Magistracy The structure has a majestic appearance, with imposing pillars and other features typical of Greek Revival style.
Victoria Prison Compound Built in 1841, the now-defunct Victoria Prison is believed to be the first western building constructed of durable material in Hong Kong.
Former Central Police Station Compound
continue until you can turn right into Possession Street. Walk uphill along the sloping street and turn left onto Hollywood Road. Turn left at Lok Ku Road, then right onto Upper Lascar Row.
Hollywood Road This thoroughfare is famous for its many curios and antiques shops.
Upper Lascar Row Also known as Cat Street, this alley is a shopper’s paradise lined with traditional street stalls. Walk back uphill to Hollywood Road, turn left and walk until you reach the Man Mo Temple.
Man Mo Temple One of the first traditional-style temples in Hong Kong, this homage to the gods of war and literature was built during the colonial era. Open daily from 8am to 6pm. Continue walking east along Hollywood Road to the Central Mid-Levels Escalator.
Take the escalator up to Staunton Street and the SoHo area.
Central Mid-Levels Escalator At 800 meters long, this is the world’s longest connected outdoor escalator.
SoHo You’ll find great food, coffee shops and funky bars in this lively dining district as well as boutiques and markets. Take the steps beside the escalator down to Hollywood Road, turn right and walk to the former Central Police Station Compound, former Central Magistracy and Victoria Prison Compound.
Former Central Police Station Compound This gray building with a Doricstyle façade and columns was built in 1864. A revitalization project to convert the building for commercial use is underway.
Walk east along Hollywood Road as it turns into Wyndham Street, and follow the signs to Lan Kwai Fong.
Lan Kwai Fong A buzzing center of clubs, bars and restaurants. A must for night owls and people-watchers. Walk up D’Aguilar Street, cross Wyndham Street and turn left onto Lower Albert Road. Follow the signs to Duddell Street.
Duddell Street Steps & Gas Lamps The lamps at the head and foot of the steps, built between 1875 and 1889, are the only four gas lamps remaining in Hong Kong.
For more Hong Kong walks visit www.discoverhongkong.com or call the HKTB hotline on 2508-1234.
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map of Central Š OpenStreetMap contributors. See openstreetmap.org
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30 Things we LOve about Hong Kong 6
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1 Trying tai chi for free at the Sculpture Court in front of the Hong Kong Museum of Art from 8am to 9am every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. 2 Dressing up for high tea at The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-3169. 3 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach, Lantau Island. 4 Having our palms read at the Temple Street night market, Yau Ma Tei. 5 Spotting endangered white dolphins with Dolphinwatch off Lantau Island, 2984-1414. 6 Seeing all your animated favorites come to life at Hong Kong Disneyland, Lantau Island, 1830-830. 7 Dining aboard the kitschycool Jumbo Kingdom floating restaurant. Shum Wan Pier Drive, Aberdeen, 2553-9111. 8 Cruising Victoria Harbour on the Duk Ling, an authentic Chinese fishing junk, 2573-5282.
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9 Shaking fortune-telling bamboo sticks at the Wong Tai Sin Temple.
!0 Saying hi to Bruce Lee at the Avenue of Stars, Tsim Sha Tsui. !1 Shopping for antique kitsch on Cat Street (Upper Lascar Row), Sheung Wan. !2 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. Stanley Street, Central (by the escalators). !3 Hiking along the beautiful Sai Kung Peninsula. !4 Listening to a Chinese tea expert talking about the varieties of tea, its proper preparation and tea-drinking etiquette. Free talk at Lock Cha Tea Shop from 4pm to 5pm every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Call 2805-1360. !5 Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei. !6 Getting a shave at the Mandarin Barber, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2522-0111.
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!7 Riding the cable car 5.7 kilometers over Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Ngong Ping cultural-themed village and the Big Buddha. !8 Snaking through the highrises on the Mid-Levels Escalator—the longest in the world. Cochrane, Shelley, and Peel Streets, Central. !9 Checking out the eco-friendly Hong Kong Wetland Park. Tin Shui Wai, New Territories, 2708-8885. @0 Taking the Peak Tram to visit Hong Kong celebrities at Madame Tussauds. Shop P10, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., 2849-6966. @1 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 16-24 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. @2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building to be constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill.
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@3 Taking the oldest ride in Hong Kong—a tram from Kennedy Town to Causeway Bay. @4 Enjoying free kung fu demonstrations and cultural performances at Kowloon Park every Sunday from 2:30pm to 4:30pm. Weather permitting. @5 Slurping oysters for brunch at Café Deco. 1-2/F, The Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-5111. @6 Taking a walk down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defence, 2569-1500. @7 Drinking at panoramic bar Aqua Spirit. 30/F, One Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. @8 Checking out the KowloonCanton Railway clock tower. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. @9 Snacking on egg tarts at Tai Cheong Bakery. 32 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2554-3475. #0 Bird-watching at the Mai Po Marshes, Mai Po, 2526-4473.
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