December 2013
the complete guide to go
ÂŽ
Hong Kong
+
Christmas Markets
Hong Kong-style burgers Open-top bus tour
Deck the
Malls Hong Kong’s best Christmas shopping
where Hong Kong 12.2013 ®
the guide
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08 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events
18 art + culture Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening
24 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town
30 Drinks Our favorite places to sip a cocktail
46 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot
48 Maps Kowloon & Hong Kong Island
Also inside 36 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers 40 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info
25
features
50 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences
12 Deck the Malls The city’s shopping malls gear up for Christmas
25 Buns of Style
on the cover December 2013
Chef May Chow and her Hong Kong-style burgers are all the rave
the complete guiDe to go
®
Hong Kong
Every December, Hong Kong’s shop-
+
ping malls come alive
Christmas markets
hong kong-style burgers open-top bus tour
40
40 Turn on the bright lights Hop on an open-top double decker and
with over-the-top decorations and life-sized installations. This cutesy
DeCK tHe
Malls Hong Kong’s best Christmas shopping
reindeer playing the guitar can be found
enjoy the amazing view of the Christmas
at Times Square in
season skyline
Causeway Bay. See p. 12 to find out more.
wheretraveler.com The website from the editors of Where Magazine. Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.
D e c e m b e r 2 013 I WHERE hong k o n g 3
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On the web: www.where-hongkong.com HK Magazine Media group acMG | ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION General MANAGER & Publisher Greg Crandall ADVERTISING director Jan Cheng Advertising Executives Ivor Ngo, Maggie Chong, Winnie Cheng Advertising Coordinator Sharon Cheung Marketing MANAGER James Gannaban Marketing & Circulation Executive Charmaine Mirandilla IT SYSTEMS Manager Derek Wong
HK | EDITORIAL EDITOR-in-chief Zach Hines EDITOR Adele Wong CONTRIBUTORS William Hodson, Andrea Lo, Wynna Wong, Leah Oh, Sean Hebert
HK | PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGER Blackie Hui ART DIRECTOR Pierre Pang Senior graphic designer Mike Hung graphic designer Iris Mak
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Until December 21st
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8/F Club Lusitano Bldg. 16 Ice House St. Central Hong Kong | T. 852-21678896 | hongkong@desarthe.com | www.desarthe.com
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hot dates Hong Kong By Andrea lo
December 6-7 Miracle on Christmas Fair Street A two-day festival taking place at Island East, the White Christmas Street Fair will feature plenty of food and drinks as well as handcrafted goodies. Chill out under the massive, 20-foot-tall Christmas tree while enjoying live music and interactive games. Tong Chong Street, Tai Koo.
December 14-15
December 10
All the Gifts in the World
Putting the Green in the Red and Green Eco-conscious shoppers will love the Cyberport Weekend Harvest Bazaar, with offerings like organic foods and even an upcycling workshop. 11:30am-6pm. Ocean View Court, The Arcade, 100 Cyberport Rd., Cyberport. 8 W H E R E HONG KONG I D e c e m b e r 2 0 13
Wrapping up the series of holiday shopping fairs at the Conrad, the Christmas Gift Festival’s offerings will impress even the hardest to please. Think vintage jewelry, cashmere goods and men’s accessories. Grand Ballroom, Conrad Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty.
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hot dates Hong Kong Through December 25
December 7
Labors of Love
Christmas Weave
Check out “Knitted With Love” at Fashion Walk—a charity workshop taught by the duo behind the knitting workshop La Belle Epoque. Shoppers who spend $100 or make a $50 donation will receive a knitting kit and have the option to participate in the workshop. Donations go to the Makea-Wish Foundation. Fashion Walk, 11-19 Great George St.,
For something a little different from your usual holiday shopping fair, stop by Handmade Hong Kong’s Christmas edition. Moving across the water from its usual location in Discovery Bay, this year's festive fair will be taking place at Vine Centre in Wan Chai. As always, expect independent designers’ handmade wares and other bric-a-brac; food and drink; live music and more. 10am-5pm. The Vine Centre,
Causeway Bay.
29 Burrows St., Wan Chai. Free.
December 4
December 14
December 8
Big Bad Bazaar
Sunny Side Up
Strength In Numbers
Hosted by Shopping Hong Kong, the Fringe Club Holiday Bazaar is offering a half-day of shopping at, of course, the Fringe Club. Expect girly delights—like jewelry from Marina Malison and Boho Betty—as well as yummy cupcakes from the likes of Bites by Sam. Noon-8pm. Fringe Club,
The brain behind the mega-successful Island East Markets, Janice Leung, is at it again with Sun Street Markets, a one-day fair in Wan Chai. Just like Island East, visitors can expect artisanal and sustainable food and drink, with entertainment like live music and even fashion shows. 12:30-5pm. Sun Street and
The HSBC Community Festival will boast carnival games and interactive booths, as well as exciting cultural performances that aim to bring out the best of old Hong Kong.
2 Lower Albert Rd., Central. Free.
Moon Street, Wan Chai.
10 W H E R E HONG KONG I D e c e m b e r 2 0 13
Chater Road Pedestrian Precinct, Central.
... savour the uniqueness ... savour the moment ....
w w w. s e v va . h k
It’s Beginning to Look a Lot Like Christmas Hong Kong’s shopping malls get ready to outdo each other for the festive season. By William Hodson
E
very Christmas, the shopping malls of Hong Kong come alive with festive decorations. Visit any entertainment complex in December and you’ll see shoppers posing and taking pictures beside colorful large-scale installations and eyecatching exhibitions. Remember to check out at least some of these decked-out spaces to get the full Christmas experience.
❆ ❅ ❄ ❆ ❅ ❄ ❆ ❅ ❄ ❆ ❅ ❄ ❊ Times Square ❊
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ost known for its exhibitions and displays, Times Square also has 230 stores offering fashion items, electronics and over 20 restaurants. This year, Times Square brings you a whimsical Christmas, inspired by Argentinian artist Javier Gonzalez Burgos. The scene contains a movable installation as well as a special appearance from Burgos’s cat, Nina Kodama. From now until December 26, shoppers who make a purchase of $500 are able to redeem a limited-edition gift by Javier Gonzalez Burgos. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900, www.timessquare.com.hk.
❊ Elements ❊
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our elemental zones make up this super-mall situated in West Kowloon. This year, Elements is showcasing a traditional German Christmas, sponsored by Mueller. Indulge in a world of exquisitely executed wooden handicrafts, towering Christmas pyramids and happy melodies while doing your shopping. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234, www.elementshk.com.
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❊ Pacific Place ❊
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acific Place plays host to 140 high-end stores and restaurants, not to mention being home to four five-star hotels. Join jolly Santa Claus, his team of charming robots and a troupe of dynamic live performers at Pacific Place this Christmas. Make sure to check out the new hanging contraption that whisks gifts down and around a track. Shoppers will have the chance to take an instant photo with Santa, and big spenders can receive a sports bag from Shanghai Tang’s Pop Star collection.
88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8900, www.pacificplace.com.hk.
❊ Harbour City ❊
C
omprising Ocean Terminal, Ocean Centre and Gateway Arcade, Harbour City is one of Hong Kong’s largest shopping complexes. Everyone is sure to find something to their taste, with stores ranging from electronics to high-end garments. This year, Harbour City has collaborated with Disney to create a “Mickey’s Magical Balloon” installation. Shoppers will be able to feast their eyes on Christmas trees, lights and all the Disney
characters we love. Also, between now and January 1, there will be a Christmas light show every evening. Shoppers who spend $1,000 and make a donation to the Hong Kong Blood Cancer Foundation are able to redeem an illustrated calendar put together by New York-based visual artist Craig Redman, the creator behind Darcel Disappoints. 3-27 Canton Rd. Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8886, www.harbourcity.com.hk.
❊ WTC More ❊
T
his Christmas, WTC More has invited Australian artist Pip & Pop to transform the mall into an X’Mas Sugarland. Expect psychedelic colors and surreal forest animals from this fun and colorful installation.
280 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2576-4121, www.wtcmore.com.hk.
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❊ Tuen Mun Town Plaza ❊
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his mammoth shopping mall in Tuen Mun provides its 300,000 daily shoppers with over five stories’ worth of retail, entertainment and dining possibilities. Local artist Bigsoil sees
his signature white bear illustrations celebrating the messages of love, care, hope and positive spirits come to life. 1 Tuen Shun St., Tuen Mun, 2450-7782, www.tmtp.com.hk.
❊ Festival Walk ❊
W ❊ K11 ❊
S
hoppers at K11 will be spoilt for choice this Christmas—and be reminded of their responsibilities to protect the precious planet via “Polar Power,” an exhibition showcasing photographs from the arctic as well a glowing polar
bear standing at 6.5 meters. The bear’s mission is to spread the message of global warming and the power we have to change the world. 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3118-8070, www.k11concepts.com.
hether it’s chains or high-end fashion you’re after, this mall has you covered. Enjoy a fun day at the multi-screen cinema or a skate around the ice rink, finishing the day at one of the many restaurants. This season, get ready for “An Enchanted Christmas… At Festival Walk.” The mall’s 70-foot-tall Christmas tree will again make its appearance, alongside Santa’s Elf Gift workshop and the Christmas express railway station. Shoppers who donate $60 dollars to the Charles K. Kao foundation for Alzheimer’s Disease will be able to take a photo with none other than Santa Claus himself. Also throughout December is a festive lineup of dance, gymnastics and singing. 80 Tat Chee Avenue, Kowloon Tong, 2844-2223, www.festivalwalk.com.hk.
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❊ Olympian City ❊
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ith over 250 fashion, beauty, health and home and dining outlets, Olympian City really is a city in itself. Come witness local art group Stickyline’s 6-meter-tall paer-made Candy Christmas tree, the headliner to this year’s “Sweet Paper Tales” theme. Shoppers who spend $200 or more will be invited to take part in a paper craft workshop. 18 Hoi Ting Rd., West Kowloon, 2740-4108, www.olympiancity.com.hk.
❊ IFC ❊
T
his Central shopping haven offers over 200 international brands, including the Apple flagship store. It is also home to Chinese and western Michelin-starred restaurants, including Tim Ho Wan and Crystal Jade. This Christmas, IFC has set up a “Bike to Illuminate Central Christmas Park” installation, inspired by the greens of New York City’s Central Park. This December, shoppers who spend $8,000 in one day will receive a gift and a $500 cash voucher from Lalique. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308, www.ifc.com.hk. D e c e m b e r 2 013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 15
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the guide
Whisky Dreams Hop on a ferry and head to The Macallan Whisky Bar & Lounge in Macau, for a festive drink this Christmas. Classics like eggnog and mulled wine will be served alongside creative cocktails made with whisky. The bar boasts one of the largest whisky collections in Macau, with over 400 different options to choose from. Galaxy Macau, Estrada da Baia de Nossa Senhora da Esperanca, Cotai, Macau, 2888-0888.
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Art+culture | The Guide
Art to Art Two exciting exhibitions this month. By Sean Hebert
Tetsuya Ishida ”At first, it was a self-portrait. I tried to make myself— my weak self, my pitiful self, my anxious self—into a joke or something funny that could be laughed at.” These are the words of the late Japanese painter Tetsuya Ishida, who came of age as an artist in the midst of his country’s deep recession in the final years of the 20th century. “It was sometimes seen as a parody or satire referring to contemporary people. As I continued to think about this, I expanded it to include consumers, city-dwellers, workers, and the Japanese people.” In the first exhibition of his work outside Japan, Ishida’s rare gift for capturing feelings of hopelessness, claustrophobia and emotional isolation are seen in full nightmarish focus. Through Dec 21. Gagosian Gallery, 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555.
Antiques
Altfield Gallery
ALTFIELD GALLERY — Altfield Gallery deals in Southeast Asian sculpture and decorative arts, antique maps and topographical prints relating to Asia, as well as Chinese, Tibetan and Caucasian carpets. Altfield also produces a range of reproduction furniture and accessories in the Chinoiserie style. Shipping available. Shop 248-9, 2/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-6370, www.altfield.com.hk.
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Meng Yan: My Dear Large lotus leaves, vibrant flowers and childlike, chubby figures playing outdoors—these are all common elements in paintings from the young Chinese artist Meng Yan. Her colorful tableaus are done in the style of traditional Chinese New Year paintings, which were once popularly used during the holidays to pray for luck and fortune. But Yan doesn’t stop at mere imitation, instead installing her own feelings about the uncertainties of good fortune into her compositions. Through Dec 5. EC Gallery, G/F, 72A Hollywood Rd., 2519-6178.
ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUES — The three-story shop houses large collections of Qing dynasty porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic stone and bronze sculptures and buddhas, and terracotta sculptures from China and SouthEastern Asia are found in the viewing galleries, plus there are over 200 paintings in the extensive ancestral scroll collection. G/F, 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848. CHINA ART — This leading restorer and dealer in fine Asian antique furniture and artifacts holds frequent exhibitions and has published two books, “Antiques in the Raw” and “Regional Furniture.” Go to the website to see what’s in stock. Unit 26-27, 15/F, Tower A, Southmark, 11 Yip Hing St., Aberdeen, 2542-0982, www.chinaart.com.hk.
Lam & Co Antiquities
LAM & CO ANTIQUITIES — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silver ware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offers repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services. 2/F, 151 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877, www.lamantiquities.com.
You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.
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OI LING ANTIQUES — Oi Ling's Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items dating as far back as the Neolithic era. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2815-9422, www.oilingantiques.com. WATTIS FINE ART — Specializes in antique maps of Asia, and historical photographs and prints of China, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia. 2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302, www.wattis.com.hk.
Galleries 10 CHANCERY LANE GALLERY — Focusing on established and emerging international artists, 10 Chancery Lane consists of three large gallery spaces. It holds exhibitions of sculptures, paintings, photographs, installations and videos, as well as performances by renowned artists. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, SoHo, 2810-0065, www.10chancerylanegallery.com. AGNèS B. LIBRAIRIE GALERIE — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnès b. has a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world. G/F, 118 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2869-5505, www.agnesb.com. ALISAN FINE ARTS — This well-established gallery has organized more than 100 exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world. Run by respected art-world figure Alice King, who has worked with the Guggenheim Museum, it also mounts exhibitions for overseas venues. Room 2305, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091, www.alisan.com.hk. AP Contemporary— AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2148, www.apcontemporary.com. ART BEATUS — Established in the early 1990s, Art Beatus features mainly original paintings and art by contemporary Chinese artists. Some of its collection has a retro slant, and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoon as vehicles for expression. Has branches in Vancouver and on Queen’s Road Central. G/F, 50 Peel St., Central, 2522-1138, www.artbeatus.com. ASIA FINE ART — Dedicated to promoting young Asian artists at affordable prices, this gallery has regular exhibitions of work from China, Vietnam and Indonesia and Myanmar for sale on site and online. 14 Sik On St., Wan Chai (entrance at 99 Queen’s Rd. East), 2522-0405, www.asia-fineart.com.
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Art+culture
Asia Society Hong Kong
ASIA SOCIETY HONG KONG — Asia Society Hong Kong's big, brand-spankin’-new headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences—97 percent of which are open to the public—the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. Closed Mon. G/F, 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511, www.asiasociety.org/hong-kong. THE CAT STREET GALLERY — Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the world. 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006, www.thecatstreetgallery.com. CONNOISSEUR ART GALLERY — Specializing in contemporary Chinese fine art since 1989, Connoisseur features such acclaimed artists as Paris-based Jia Juan-li, renowned Guangzhou artist Zhang Da-zhong and still life artist Liu Ying-zhao. Shop G3, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2868-5358, www.connoisseur-art.com. CONTEMPORARY BY ANGELA LI — Perhaps best known for introducing Chinese artists Chen Jiagang and Liao Yibai to the art world, CBAL boasts a lovely space and a carefully curated exhibition program. G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3571-8200, www.cbal.com.hk.
De Sarthe Gallery
DE SARTHE GALLERY — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the U.S. and Europe, de Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, Club Lusitano, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896, desarthe.com. GAGOSIAN GALLERY — With 12 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. They opened their doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an all-new exhibition by Damien Hirst—Gagosian only exhibits the crème-de-la-crème of the art world. Closed Mon. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555, www.gagosian.com. 20 W H E R E HONG KONG I d e c e m b e r 2 013
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What happened at the Pinewood Battery? * Galerie Du Monde
GALERIE DU MONDE — Galerie du Monde hosts exhibitions by Chinese artists including Li Shuang, Le Longyao, Yu Xiaohui, Hon Chifun and Pan Xun. Its conservation studio provides a complete restoration service for works of art on paper and canvas. Shop 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Center, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529, www.galeriedumonde.com. GROTTO FINE ART — Curated by Henry Au-yeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery represents local artists, with an interest in new and avant-garde art forms. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixedmedia and installation pieces. 2/F, 31C-D Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270, www.grottofineart.com. HANART TZ GALLERY — A specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone. 401 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019, www.hanart.com. Lehmann Maupin Gallery — With the original branch in New York and with its reputation of supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery opened its doors here on March 14. Architect Rem Koolhas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Room 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central.2530-0025, hongkong@lehmanmaupin.com. OPERA GALLERY — Opera Gallery features works by world-famous international artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Gerard Rancinan and Lita Cabellut, among others. W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-1208, www.operagallery.com. Puerta Roja — Puerta Roja was established to promote Latin American art and artists to the Hong Kong audience. Drawings, etchings, glasswork and sculptures are all featured here. Shop A, G/F, Wai Yue Building, 15-17 New St., Sheung Wan, 9729-1773. PICTURE THIS — The city’s largest affordable art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children’s rooms, and sporting prints. Suite 1308, 13/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820, www.picturethiscollection.com.
*Learn about this and other fascinating facts in
Historical Hong Kong Hikes A guide to 15 remarkable treks, detailing the rich history of the SAR’s peaks, valleys and urban neighborhoods
In all major bookstores now! Or order yours at: www.historicalhkhikes.com with free delivery.
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Art+culture
Plum Blossoms Gallery
PLUM BLOSSOMS GALLERY — Recognized for its exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection of museum-quality ancient textiles, Plum Blossoms is an established platform for the promotion of both ancient and modern arts. 14/F, Cheung Tak Building, 30 Heung Yip Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2521-2189, www. plumblossoms.com.
White Cube
WHITE CUBE — One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first non-UK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials—for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. Closed Mon. G-1/F, 50 Connaught Rd. Central, 2592-2000, www.whitecube.com.
Museums FLAGSTAFF HOUSE MUSEUM OF TEAWARE — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-inchief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Closed Tue. 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Hong Kong Park, Central, 2869-0690, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG FILM ARCHIVE — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Tuesdays. 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139. 22 W H E R E HONG KONG I d e c e m b e r 2 013
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HONG KONG HERITAGE MUSEUM — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. It features permanent exhibitions on the New Territories, Cantonese opera and a Children’s Discovery Gallery. Closed Tues. 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188, www.hk.heritage.museum.
Hong Kong Maritime Museum
HONG KONG MARITIME MUSEUM — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong's growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier No. 8, 3713-2500, www.hkmaritimemuseum.org. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF ART — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0116, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF HISTORY — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. Closed Tue. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042, www.hk.history.museum.
Hong Kong Museum Of Medical Sciences
HONG KONG MUSEUM OF MEDICAL SCIENCES — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both Western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Closed Mon. 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels, 2549-5123, www.hkmms.org.hk. LAW UK FOLK MUSEUM — Law Uk, which means “Law’s House” after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. Free admission. Closed Thu. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006, www.hk.history.museum. LEI CHENG UK HAN TOMB MUSEUM — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, this is one of the city’s most fascinating monuments. Closed Thu. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863, www.hk.history.museum. d e c e m b e r 2 013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 23
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dining | The Guide
Spread the Love Christmas is no small occasion in Hong Kong. Check in for a truly festive spread at one of the hotels below. By Leah Oh
like chocolate slices with dark cherries. All profits from the buffet will be donated to Animals Asia Foundation to improve the welfare of animals in China and Vietnam. Mezzanine, Renaissance Harbour View Hotel, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2802-8888.
The Choice is Yours
Renaissance Harbour View Hotel
The Place at Langham Place
The Mira
Harbour Grand Kowloon
Fond of Fondue?
Mixed Bag
Café at Hyatt Regency will be offering a Swiss Cheese Fondue dinner from now until February 28. Enjoy a country-style air-dried meat platter, consisting of traditional European treats such as German pickles, gherkins and radishes with smoked salmon rillettes. Enjoy the set with a Zurich-style veal or grilled salmon fillet. The cheese fondue dinner is available for a minimum of two persons, at $428 per person.
The Promenade presents an international buffet on Christmas Eve and Christmas day. The buffet includes turkey, ham, seafood as well as international dishes. Enjoy alongside magic and balloon-twisting performances, and a live band. Unlimited fresh and chilled orange juice, soft drinks, beer and house wines will be served. On Christmas Eve and Christmas day, the lunch buffet will be $438 per person; Dinner will be $758 per person.
Hyatt Regency, 18 Chak Cheung St., Sha Tin, 3723-1234.
Brunch Crunch The Mira will be offering a Christmas Eve and Christmas day semi-buffet brunch this festive season. Celebrate over a spread of fresh oysters, crabs and caviar; a barbecue corner; and made-to-order mains. There will be also a decadent dessert station to end things on a sweet note. $1,699 per person. The Mira, 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-1111. 24 WH E R E HONG KONG I de cember 2 013
Harbour Grand, 20 Tak Fung St., Whampoa Garden, Hung Hom, 2621-3188.
Chocolate for Charity Renaissance will be hosting exquisite Christmas Eve, Christmas and New Year’s Eve meals at The Lounge and Renaissance Cafe. There will be a delightful range of dishes, from buffet spreads and seasonal delicacies to a festive-theme tea set. Indulge in the Charity Chocolate Tea Buffet at $198 per head, which comes with sweet treats
The Place at Langham Place will be serving lunch and dinner buffets on both Christmas Eve and Christmas day. Queue up at the Beef Wellington and Kintoa ham carving stations, or go straight for the Christmas turkey and freshly seared French foie gras. While you’re at it, pop a bottle of champagne to go along. Lunch is $378 per head; dinner is $628. Alternatively, enjoy The Backyard’s Christmas gourmet barbecue, which comes with wagyu beef skewers, Sichuan pepper and lime-scented tiger prawns, and lots of premium craft beer and wines, at $588 per head. Langham Place, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3388.
Seafood And Then Some From now until the end of the year, The Pool Bar will be providing a five-course Christmas set dinner, with a seafood platter, lobster soup, crispy fried foie gras, grilled rib-eye steak and Christmas desserts all in one meal. The set dinner starts at $488 per person. There will also be a Christmas lunch and dinner buffet at Cafe 8 Degrees. The meal includes freshly shucked oysters, sweet shrimp and mussels, Christmas turkey and grilled lamb chop with mint yogurt. The lunch buffet starts from $298 and dinner starts from $448. Harbour Plaza 8 Degrees, 199 Kowloon City Rd., To Kwa Wan, 2126-1988.
dining
Buns of Style Chef May Chow gives Chinese steamed buns a new spin— by turning them into trendy burgers. By Wynna Wong
May Chow
S
ituated on a quiet corner in Sheung Wan, Little Bao is one of Hong Kong’s trendiest new restaurants. LB specializes in delicious Hong Kong-style burgers, made with ingredients like sweet soy-braised pork belly, pickled leek and cucumber salad stacked between Chinese mantou (steamed bun) slices. Little Bao’s menu also features a range of Asian-fusion dishes for sharing, like steamed venus clams with yuzu cucumber broth, pan-fried short rib
Pork belly bao
dumplings, and truffle Taiwanese minced pork foie gras rice bowls. Little Bao first made its appearance at Island East Markets, a local Sunday market in Quarry Bay. “We wanted to do something fun and Asian,” says LB chef and proprietor May Chow. “In LA, they have the taco, so we tried to come up with something like that, but unique to the Hong Kong market. Self-learning has played a large part to Chow’s culinary development, whether this meant going out to eat at
Admiralty
Causeway Bay
Ammo — Western. $$$. Tapas and pastas can be had at this posh Asia Society eatery housed in a former British army magazine compound. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2537-9888.
Hooray — Italian. $$. Al fresco drinks and dining in a casual setting complete with a magnificent harbor view. Shop P502, 5/F, World Trade Center, 280 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2895 0885.
DAN RYAN’S — American. $$$ Dan Ryan’s prides itself on Chicago-style chow. Shop 112, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2845-4600. METROPOL — Dim sum. $ Beef balls, steamed shrimp dumplings, pork-and-shrimp dumplings, stuffed rice rolls and other Hong Kong specialties are wheeled around in traditional trolleys for an authentic dim sum experience. 4/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty, 2865-1988. NICHOLINI’S — Italian. $$$$ Hands down the best Sunday brunch around. It gets kudos from honest-to-goodness Italians, and that’s good enough for us. 8/F, Conrad International Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2521-3838. PETRUS — French. $$$$ This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The décor is a bit ostentatious, but the opulence suits the magnificent view. 56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2820-8590.
IPPUDO — Ramen. $ Japan’s famous chain serves ramen in bowls so enormous they should be called cauldrons, with a meaty, savory broth, tender pork pieces, springy noodles and tangy spring onions topped with fungus and bean sprouts. 2/F, 8 Russell St., 2892-2387. MANGO TREE — Thai. $$-$$$ Somehow, in the middle of bustling Causeway Bay, in a high-rise chock-full of other restaurants and bars, Mango Tree manages to be an oasis of dim lighting, carefully placed flowers and good Thai food. 5/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-0828. Sorabol — Korean. $$ The smell wafting from the open barbecues in the middle of each table will get your appetite going— which is a good thing, since you’ll want to try everything. 18/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival St., 2881-6823.
Deep-fried green tea ice-cream bao
restaurants, or watching cooking videos on YouTube. “I don’t like to follow orders, I have a short attention span, I don’t listen,” she says. I could never be an executive chef in a traditional kitchen, because I don’t work that way. Instead, I surround myself with people who can cover my flaws. [Little Bao] is a place where I am free to do what I want.” Little Bao, G/F, 66 Staunton St., Central, 2194-0202.
Tott’s — Modern Asian/Western. $$$-$$$$ Sophisticated décor, harbor-view seats, and perfectly crafted entrees are the hallmark here. The attentive service also deserves special mention. 34/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., 2837-6786.
Central & Lan Kwai Fong AMBER — Modern French. $$$$ Modern, inventive French cuisine meets attentiongrabbing decor. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066. Brickhouse — Mexican. $$. Imagine street-side Mexican combined with hipster-chic décor and upbeat music. Phone reservations not allowed and queues form quickly at peak hours so early arrival recommended. G/F, 20A D’Aguilar St. Boqueria — Spanish. $$$ Feast on tasty tapas and bomba rice paellas at this chain from New York. 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2321-8681. CAPRICE — French. $$$$ Three Michelin Stars. Splurge on haute cuisine at this French restaurant staffed by chefs formerly of Le Cinq in Paris. The gorgeous interior includes floorto-ceiling windows. 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8860. d e c e m b e r 2 013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 25
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dining | The Guide The Peak THE PEAK LOOKOUT — International. $$$ Offering an alfresco terrace with a view, this restaurant features an open, bright and airy environment—more like a mountain lodge than a country club—and excellent fare. 121 Peak Rd., 2849-1000. Lung King Heen Duddell’s
Duddell’s — Cantonese. $$$. Serves Chinese fusion by former T’ang Court Chef Siu Hin-chi. The art pieces on display are another highlight. Levels 3 & 4, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., 2525-9191.
LUNG KING HEEN — Cantonese. $$$-$$$$ Three Michelin Stars. The name means “view of the dragon” and the floor-to-ceiling windows make the case. Stylish décor, flawless service and traditional as well as innovative dishes only add to the appeal. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8880.
Fatty Crab — Southeast Asian. $$$. A branch of the popular Fatty Crab Restaurant in New York. Expect a delectable mix of South-East Asian flavors. 11-13 Old Bailey St., 2521-2033. INAGIKU — Japanese. $$$ The Hong Kong branch of one of Japan’s oldest and bestknown restaurants, it lives up to the buzz: authentic, delicious and quiveringly fresh. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 2805-0600. ISLAND TANG — Cantonese. $$$$ Shanghai Tang founder David Tang’s art-deco dining space is a welcome bright spot amid Central’s modern office towers, with top local cuisine to match. Shop 222, 2/F, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-8798. ISOLA BAR & GRILL — Italian. $$$$ The glam factor is off the scale, with stunning harbor views and high ceilings, not to mention handmade pastas, pizzas, risottos and more. Shop 3071-75, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., 2383-8765.
Repulse Bay SPICES — Pan-Asian. $$$ Below a glassy high-rise, this restaurant is devoted to showcasing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East.” It also offers a fantastic view of the South China Sea and the sandy shores below. G/F, The Arcade, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2821. THE VERANDAH — Continental/International. $$$ Book brunch in time to get a seat at this popular spot. On other days, the a la carte menu never disappoints. Closed Mon. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2822.
SoHo Mayta
Mayta — Peruvian. $$$ Indulge in colorful and multi-textured dishes like seafood ceviche at one of LKF’s most popular new restos. 3/F, Grand Progress Building, 15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, 2790-0928. pierre — French. $$$$ Masterminded by threeMichelin-star chef Pierre Gagnaire, this is a bastion of fine French dining. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4001.
JASHAN — Indian. $$ Immediately impressive, with dim lighting, vermilion walls and colonial furnishings, Jashan offers an extensive menu, delicious food and hotel-level service. 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., 3105-5300. POSTO PUBBLICO — American Italian. $$$ Hip Greenwich Village types come to get their fill of such dishes as veal meatballs and sandwiches of homemade mozzarella, eggplant and lashings of balsamic vinegar. 28 Elgin St., 2577-7160.
Yardbird
Sevva
L’Atelier De Joel Robuchon
L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON — French. $$$$ The Frenchman named “Chef of the Century” by Gault Millau designs authentic dishes with exquisite finesse and precision, which are then turned out by highly trained chefs in the open kitchen. Shop 315 & 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2166-9000. LIN HEUNG Lau— Cantonese. $$ The setup has changed little in more than 50 years and it still remains a popular hangout for those craving a bit of old Hong Kong nostalgia and really, really good food. Most people come here for daytime dim sum, but dinner’s great too. 160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556.
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SEVVA — Contemporary. $$$$ The brainchild of local socialite Bonnie Gokson, this 22,000-square-foot penthouse restaurant comes with a buzzing wraparound terrace. The elegant eatery serves dishes drawn from Cantonese, Shanghainese, Indian and British culinary concepts. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., 2537-1388. YELLOW DOOR KITCHEN — Sichuan. $$ Hong Kong’s first private kitchen, this favorite has been serving up fiery Sichuan cuisine since the early 1990s. 6/F, Cheung Hing Commercial Building, 37 Cochrane St., 2858-6555. ZUMA — Japanese. $$$$ This is one goodlooking restaurant, split over two floors and linked by a sumptuous staircase. It’s the local branch of London’s famed eatery, offering a sophisticated twist on the traditional izakaya. 5-6/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3657-6388.
YARDBIRD — Yakitori. $$$ This is a no-frills yet achingly modern two-story yakitori joint in a trendy corner of the district. The skewers are mostly chicken-based, and taken from every part of the chicken’s body from the heart to the skin. Don’t forget to sample the house sake. 33-35 Bridges St., 2547-9273.
Tsim Sha Tsui
Angelini
ANGELINI — Italian. $$$-$$$$ With Italian native Marco Medaglia at the helm, Angelini serves up unpretentious food, with an emphasis on ingredients air-freighted from Italy three times a week. Also has a great harbor view. Mezzanine, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., 2733-8750.
dining
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FELIX — Fusion. $$$$ Still one of the swankiest restaurants in town, with Philippe Starck décor, modern food and famous bathrooms. It’s glam, contemporary and kid-free. 28/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, 2696-6778. FOOK LAM MOON — Cantonese. $$$$ Devotees swear this place serves the best Cantonese cuisine in the world. It’s been the place to go for southern Chinese delicacies for more than five decades. 55 Kimberley Rd., 2366-0286. HUTONG — Northern Chinese. $$$$ Dark wood furnishings and a fabulous harbor view make for a modern-day Chinese dining hall. The food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., 3428-8342. MORTON’S OF CHICAGO — Steak. $$$$ With huge slabs of prime, aged beef accompanied by what looks like the winning entries in a hard-fought vegetable show, Morton’s is one of the best steak restaurants in Hong Kong. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., 2732-2343.
Nobu
NOBU — Japanese. $$$$ Mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution, this famous restaurant deserves the hype. Sushi is a must, as is the amazing black cod. 2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323. Ruth’s Chris — Steak. $$$$ American steakhouse, with USDA Prime cuts served alongisde rich sides like spinach au gratin and tempura onion rings. Shop 108-110, 1/F, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2366-6000.
Spoon
SPOON — French. $$$$ Chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows, a fabulous harbor view and an innovative modern menu. Lobby, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323. T’ANG COURT — Cantonese. $$$$ This little gem serves some of the city’s finest Cantonese cuisine. 1/F, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., 2132-7898. d e c e m b e r 2 013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 27
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dining
Whisk — Modern European. $$$ Whisk is known for its contemporary European dishes and extensive wine list that is relatively more affordable than other fine diners. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., 2315-5999. YE SHANGHAI — Shanghainese. $$$ With upscale cuisine served in shareable portions, this is the place for Shanghainese dishes like camphor-smoked duck with pancakes. Also known for its interior full of fabulous chinoiserie. 6/F, The Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, 3 Canton Rd., 2376-3322.
Wan Chai
Bo Innovation
BO INNOVATION — Asian. $$$-$$$$ Experimental cuisine pairing local ingredients with delicacies imported from across the world. Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., 2850-8371.
Catalunya
NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT! Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418
www.outback.com.hk
Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823
Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan
Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai
Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay
Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728
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Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918
Catalunya — Spanish. $$$$ This 7,500 square feet of restaurant and bar space offers Catalan-style dishes such as roasted suckling pig and lobster rice. G/F, Guardian House, 32 Oi Kwan Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-7900. MADAM SIXTY EIGHT — European. $$$ At this posh eclectic eatery, an open kitchen faces the diners, with chefs readying exquisitely prepared dishes scurrying around. Shop 8, 1/F, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-2558. THE PAWN — British. $$$ Serving fabulous food in a faithful restoration of an 1888 landmark building, The Pawn houses a bar and a restaurant with a roof and a breezy balcony overlooking Johnston Road. The menu has modern British fare with a luxurious twist. 2/F, 62 Johnston Rd., 2866-3444. WOOLOOMOOLOO — Australian/New Zealand. $$$ This steakhouse is several places at once: a laid-back wine bar and a casual drinks terrace on the rooftop, and a fine-dining steakhouse below. 31/F-Rooftop, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960.
Taste of the city special advertising section
Spice features the
Enjoy a COMPLIMENTARY DESSERT with this ad
“Bollywood and Belly Dance Night’’,
a regular performance by two belly dancers, held every Thursday at 8:30pm .
* for dine-in and a la carte menu only We provide fine Thai, Indian and Malay cuisine with good selection of fine wines. Come experience our flavours of coriander, cumin, chili and lemongrass. Spice up your evening with friends!
Our chefs have also come up with a special menu to swing and sway to the diners’ delight of this groovy atmosphere.
www.spice-restaurant.hk 2/F, No.1 Knutsford Terrace, Tsim Sha Tsui, Tsim Sha Tsui Kowloon. Reservations: 2191 9880 / 2191 9886 Daily Opening Hours: Lunch: Mon – Sun 12nn – 3pm Dinner: Sun – Thu 6pm – 11pm Fri – Sat 6pm – 11:30pm
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Drinks | The Guide
Get Out of Here Get the most out of the beautiful December weather by heading for an outdoor drink. By Where staff
Tapagria
Sugar A lesser-known panorama greets you on the 32nd floor of the East Hotel: the streets of North Point, Quarry Bay and Tai Tam—and across the harbor, Kwun Tong, the Kai Tak cruise terminal and Kowloon Bay. The drinks at Sugar are also pretty sweet. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Tai Koo, 3968-3738, www.sugar-hongkong.com.
18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2147-0111.
Sevva Go straight onto the terrace of this posh hangout. There’s the iconic HSBC building to the right; the Mandarin Oriental hotel to the left; and beautiful colonial-style government buildings stretching out before you. The view is hard to beat.
Hooray
Vibes
With one of the biggest rooftop terraces in Hong Kong, Hooray has a gorgeous and unobscured view of the harbor. It’s a great space for after-dinner drinks, or some postshopping unwinding.
The Mira’s hidden courtyard bar is large, loungey, open air—and decorated with cool glowing cubes. Order a Vibes Piscine (champagne poured over crushed ice with strawberries and mint) before dancing the night away.
One glowing red ball, one huge terrace, and lots and lots of drink options. What more do we need to say?
5/F, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2895-0885.
5/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5999.
2/F, Chater House, 8 Connaught Rd. Central, 3583-2828.
Bars & Clubs
AQUA spirit — For cocktails with a killer vista, you can do no better than this swanky high-rise venue with an eagle’s eye view of the harbor. 30/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. Azure — Stunning view, minimalist blue décor and great cocktails. 29/F, LKF Hotel, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 3518-9330.
Angel’s Share
121BC — This import from Sydney, Australia offers biodynamic wines from Italian producers. 42-44 Peel St., Central, 2395-0200. ANGEL’S SHARE — This unique drinking loft is specifically designed for whisky lovers. Sourced from Scotland to Japan, there’s enough aged golden liquid here to suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-8388.
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Hong Kong actress Carina Lau’s new bar on the 18th floor of The One has a stunning 270-degree wraparound balcony that stretches along the skyline and then down Nathan Road.
Beijing Club — This impressive megaclub recently celebrated its sixth anniversary and is the biggest in town. Expect wet-look vinyl walls, gold-plated bathrooms and a youthful crowd. 2-3/F & 5/F, Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington St., Central, 2526-8298. Blckbrd — This chilled-out spot has an official “no loud music” policy, making it the perfect place for a few low-key drinks. Located on the sixth floor, the outdoor terrace is a serene place to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2545-8555.
25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-1388.
Armani/Privé
BLUE BAR — The upscale Blue Bar is a big hit with the cocktail set. Yes, the martinis are worth getting dressed up for. Lobby, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8830. Café Gray Deluxe — Beside the seductively stretched bar are cozy booths for intimate lounging, and its 49th-floor perch guarantees breathtaking harbor views. Cocktail lovers should try the Hong Kong Highball. 49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. Central Wine Club — This exclusive spot on Wyndham Street was designed with oenophiles in mind. Luxe, modern Baroque surrounds keep pace with the slow jazz and contemporary tunes. 3/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2147-3448. CLUB@28 — This stylish bar has killer views, deadly cocktails and its very own outdoor oasis called The Pavilion. It’s members only, but you can join on arrival and it’s free. 28/F, Crowne Plaza Hotel, 8 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 3980-3300.
For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at bars, restaurants and coffee shops).
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Drinks | The Guide DRAGON-I — Watch the bold and the beautiful work the celeb-studded room. It’s usually packed with models, especially on Wednesday nights. Podium, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 3110-1222.
Martini BAR — This stylish hotel bar has nightly entertainment, a range of cocktails beyond just martinis and is one of the few cigar lounges in town. G/F, The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2733-2995.
EXECUTIVE BAR — So quiet that the sound of a ninja’s sword slicing through silk would be cause for shushing. Well, not really, but it is quiet, Japanese and well-stocked with Scotch— the drink of the introspective man. 27/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 2893-2080.
MCSORLEY’S ALE HOUSE — Woody, Irish and vaguely Victorian, McSorley’s is the biggest pub in SoHo. 55 Elgin St., Central, 2522-2646.
GRAPPA’S CELLAR — This bustling after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians. B/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322.
Jaa Bar
MO BAR — The bar at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental is a sleek, upscale addition to the nightlife scene. G/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0077. Ozone — Located 118 floors above the ground, this watering hole boasts a superlative title: the highest bar in Hong Kong. This nightspot is a must-see, especially due to its drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2270. Quinary — Grab molecular cocktails in a chilledout lounge off Hollywood Road. Be impressed by local mixologist Antonio Lai’s creative drinks list. G/F, 56-58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-3223.
Jaa Bar — Located in a small alleyway off of Peel Street, Jaa Bar combines comfort and charm for an exclusive experience. The centerpiece of the ornate enclave is a custom-made wooden bar pieced together from classical furniture pieces. 1 Pak Tsz Lane, Central, 2815-8887. KEE CLUB — A good concierge should be able to get you into this exclusive members-only club, where you can sip a cocktail and check out the Picassos, antiques and colonial-style service. 6/F, Yeung Kee Building, 32 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9000. L’etage — With the feel of a true gentlemen’s club, this is a place for refined Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a traditionally made cocktail in one hand and a cigar in another. It’s worth coming back just to watch head bartender Katsuhisa Hirakawa hand-carve spheres of ice for whisky. 22/F, Macau Yat Yuen Centre, 525 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2522-5300. LE BOUDOIR — This Francophone hangout is all sultry drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery. The cocktails are stellar, too. B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central, 2530-3870. LILY — Get buzzed in and out of Lily’s fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. Aesthetes will be delighted that so much attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166. Lion Rock — Lion Rock is the place to unwind and relax while having one (or more) of 193 signature cocktails. Enjoy the awesome view and weekly wine and whisky tastings. 3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel,193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Mong Kok, 2622-6167. M BAR — Set against the heights of Hong Kong’s skyline, the Mandarin Oriental’s M Bar makes for a ravishingly chic hangout. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4002. 32 W H E R E HONG KONG I D ECEM ber 2 013
SUGAR — Sink into one of the sofas at this swanky rooftop bar and enjoy the amazing views of the harbor. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Tai Koo, 3968-3738.
The Lawn
The Lawn — This outdoor garden is a genuine urban oasis, exuding a serene, intimate vibe and illuminated entirely by a few candles. 6/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. The Parlour — The kitschy-chic bar sits betwixt the equally droll west and east dining rooms, and looks like an exotic dive in 70s London Chinatown. Hullet House, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3988-0101. THE PAWN — The modern British restaurant and bar, a former pawn shop, has an outdoor balcony from which to enjoy a view of Hong Kong’s 100-year-old trams. 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444.
Red Bar
RED BAR — Located on a terrace atop IFC Mall, this funky destination bar has a breathtaking public outdoor area with harbor views. 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882.
The Tonno — This complex features a bar, a clubbing zone, a restaurant, a live music lounge and karaoke rooms, taking “allaround entertainment” to a whole new level. Head here for an epic marathon of dancing, drinking, Elton John hits, dart games and Shanghainese buns. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.
RIEDEL ROOM — The world’s first Riedel Room offers exclusive wines to be enjoyed in Riedel crystal glassware. Lobby, JW Marriott Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2841-3836. Sake Bar Ginn — Sake sommelier Ayuchi Momose is behind this upper-floor bar. In addition to serving 100 types of sake and 30 Japanese tapas, she also imports special sakes by microbreweries. Shop 4C, 4/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2536-4355. Salon de Ning — Decadent Shanghai art deco lounge with live music Tue-Thu. UG/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6705. SHORE — A chill outdoor space and one of the most extensive drinks selection in town. Newly renovated. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2915-1638. Staunton’s — Popularly considered the best “people-watching spot” in Hong Kong, Staunton’s has the right equation for a chill evening drink. It also has an eclectic menu. 10-12 Staunton St., Central, 2973-6611.
Vibes
VIBES — The Mira hotel’s svelte alfresco drinks venue is home to a stunning secret garden. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5999. VOLAR — Frequented by models and wannabes, Volar can be exclusive, but you can dance the night away to top DJs. B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510. WOOLOOMOOLOO — This steakhouse outlet boasts a gorgeous rooftop with stunning views of Victoria Harbour and the Happy Valley horse racing track. 31/F, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960.
Tel: 2730 1251
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ShopS+Services | The Guide
Shopping Season Spending Christmas in Hong Kong? Get yourself a nifty gift from one of these fashionable brands.
Mahjong tile brooch Littleclouds, $140
Eye mask G.O.D., $120
Pasta sauce Ding Ding Sauce, $48
City guides Luxe City Guides, $430
Coffee mug The 9th Muse, $160
Necklace The Little Finger Jewelry, $850
Scarf Erbert Chong, $690
Spa set Bathe to Basics, $218
Duffel Squarestreet, $1,650
HK SAR towels Sleep Naked, $351
iPad case Daydream Nation, $690
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Florida water Two Girls, $48
Littleclouds www.littleclouds.com
Erbert Chong www.zalora.hk
G.O.D. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., 2805-1876
Sleep Naked www.sleepnaked.hk
Luxe City Guides www.luxecityguides.com
Squarestreet G/F, 15 Square St., Sheung Wan, 2362-1086
The Little Finger Jewelry www.facebook.com/ The LittleFingerbyPinkyWong
Daydream Nation K-11 Select, 1/F, K11, 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2177-7208
Bathe to Basics www.bathetobasics.com
Two Girls Shop 207-208, Causeway Place, Hong Kong Mansion, 2-10 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2504-1811
Ding Ding Sauce www.happyfamilies.hk The 9th Muse 12/F, 1 Lyndhurst Tower, 1 Lyndhurst Terrace, 2537-7598
Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.
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Envelope and paper set Littleclouds, $78
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ShopS+Services | The Guide
Top Shops Happy browsing at these two cool new shops.
Agnès b.
Agnès b. Rue de Marseille Agnès b’s lifestyle concept store recently opened its massive doors at K11. Occupying more than 17,000 square feet, the store brings some Parisian chic to Hong Kong with sections like Fleuriste, the flower store, and Agnès b. Bookstore, which stocks a range of unusual books and magazines. Zara Home
Shops G26-28 & 117-120, K11, 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3122-4282.
Zara Home The arrival of Zara Home this October was pretty exciting news. A new option for chic, affordable and good quality European furniture and home decorations, Zara Home sells a range of beautiful bed linens, bathroom accessories, tableware and more.
Agnès b.
Shopping Centers APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. Millennium City 5, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 3148-1200. ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous roof garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234.
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Zara Home
HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8601. HYSAN PLACE — This brand-new mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of high-quality dining options. 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222.
Shop 3205, 3/F, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2629-1858.
IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international high-end brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308. HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089.
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ShopS+Services | The Guide ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2890-6823. THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols or upscale supermarket. 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3428-8086. LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mongkok, 3520-2800, www.langhamplace.com.hk.
Shops, Boutiques and Local Designers Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men. Shop 123, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2104-7934. Daydream Nation — A locally grown label that incorporates fashion with other art forms like theater, dance, music, film and visual arts. They offer their own collection of clothing and accessories as well as works from local artists and indie bands. Daydream Nation Circus Shop, 2/F, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2817-6313.
LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 18 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-2166, www.leegardens.com.hk.
Western Market — An Edwardian-styled building with restaurants and shops selling Chinese crafts and fabrics. 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 6029-2675.
Department Stores Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant— the Fourth Floor —and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388. JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 28101120; Shop 232, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944; Shop 106, Harbour City, 2-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-8128.
G.O.D.
G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876.
Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place
PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8988.
Kapok — Offers meticulously selected international and local brands for menswear, womenswear, bags and accessories, as well as lifestyle products. G/F, 5, St Francis Yard Wan Chai, 2549-9254. SPY Henry Lau — Edgy and bold fashion for men and women. 1/F, 5 Cleveland St., Causeway Bay, 2317-6928.
Lane Crawford
LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with must-have designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388.
PRINCE’S BUILDING — Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkway to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uber-fashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket. 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2500-0555. One Peking — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier. 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. Rise Shopping Arcade — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2363-0301. TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 16-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket City’super, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.
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Squarestreet
SHANGHAI TANG
Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist. Shop 209, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-0238.
SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The brand-new flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.
Walter Ma — Well-established designer offering luxury fashion. 174 Wellington St., Causeway Bay, 2838-7655.
SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.
Squarestreet — Seriously hipster shoes and accessories. G/F, 15 Square St., Sheung Wan, 2362-1086.
ShopS+Services
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The Swank
THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freestanding boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-0842.
Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. 1/F, Star House, 3 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-4061. YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 143-161 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2739-3888.
Tailors DAVID FASHION — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884. LA ELITE FASHION — G/F, 1 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-0040. C
L & K Custom Tailor — G/F, Mirador Mansion,M 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278. Y Nita Fashion — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha CM Tsui. 2721-9990, www.nitafashions.com. MY
Punjab House — 5/F, Suite C, Golden Crown Court, 66-70 Nathan Rd., CY Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612, www. CMY punjabhouse.com.hk. K Raja Fashion — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624, www.rajafashions.com.
REGAL fashion — LG/F, Shop 8 & 9, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-6007. Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423. Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1287. D ECE m ber 2013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 39
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Navigate | The Guide
Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call their Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.
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Get Moving
Octopus Cards
Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.
These are “wave-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.
Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.
The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $48, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.
Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.
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Navigate | The Guide Buses Hong Kong has two major bus companies:
Turn On the Bright Lights Take in the city’s dazzling Christmas lights via an open-top bus tour. By Adele Wong
Kowloon Motor Bus — www.kmb.hk, 2745-4466. citybus / New World First BUS — www.nwstbus.com.hk, 2136-8888/ 2873-0818.
Sights & Attractions AVENUE OF STARS — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes’ handprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars, along with a statue of martial artist Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly Symphony of Lights. Music plays over loudspeakers here and nowhere else, although the light display can be seen from around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront. BANK OF CHINA TOWER — I. M. Pei designed this 70-story building and bank headquarters to resemble stalks of bamboo. 1 Garden Rd., Central.
Hong Kong’s skyline is pretty hard to beat on a regular day, but come Christmas, it’s a whole different animal altogether. Buildings tall and short try to outdo each other with colorful, festive lights that illuminate the night sky—and you can catch it all by hopping on a Big Bus double decker for an hour-long nighttime tour. The tour starts in front of the iconic Peninsula hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui, and goes past the International Commerce Centre (ICC)—Hong Kong’s tallest building—as one of its first stops. The outside of the building gets covered by dazzling moving light displays every Christmas, and this year won’t be an exception. The tour continues to Mong Kok, where passengers have a chance to alight and browse the Ladies’ market and Temple Street to shop for goods. But if you choose to stay on, you’ll get whisked away to East Tsim Sha Tsui, and finally be dropped off at the Avenue of the
Stars by Victoria Harbour, just in time for the nightly “A Symphony of Lights” laser light show. The tickets cost $220 per person, and can be booked by calling 3102-9021 or emailing infohk@bigbustours.com. The tour is one hour long. Check out eng. bigbustours.com/hongkong/informationcentre.html for details.
BIG BUDDHA — One of the world’s largest Buddhas, the Tian Tan Buddha took 12 years to build and sits on a lotus throne atop Lantau Island. The more than 200 steps to the top are open from 10am to 5:30pm daily and definitely recommended for the spectacular mountain views. Special admission tickets are available and include a vegetarian meal. Also check out the nearby Po Lin Monastery. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and then Bus 23 to Ngong Ping. CHI LIN NUNNERY—An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It’s a 23,600-squaremeter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1997. It’s centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds. Vegetarian food is available. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888. CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE — Finished in time to host the handover ceremony in July 1997, the center’s roof was designed to look like a seabird’s wings in flight. 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, 2582-8888.
The Peninsula
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Big Buddha
HONG KONG DISNEYLAND — Take a trip back to the 1900s on Main Street, catch a train to Fantasyland, float down the Rivers of Adventure, catch a show or blast through outer space in Tomorrowland. When you’re done charting your exotic surroundings take a moment to dine, shop or cavort with the various Disney characters who roam the park. It’s easy to get to via MTR, bus or car. See the website for transportation details. Lantau Island, 1-830-830, park. hongkongdisneyland.com.
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Hong Kong Dolphinwatch — Catch a glimpse of the pink dolphins, an animal so unique to these waters that it was named the official mascot of Hong Kong’s 1997 handover. Tours depart every Wed, Fri and Sun from the Kowloon Hotel in Tsim Tsa Tsui at 9am. The cruise takes up to five hours, and if no dolphins are seen, the company provides a free “go-again guarantee.” $380 for adults, $190 for children under 12 years, with proceeds going to dolphin research. Call 2984-1414 or visit www.hkdolphinwatch.com. HONG KONG ZOOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL GARDENS — Home to 12 endangered species, the zoo successfully breeds rare birds and orangutans. Established in 1871, the park retains all the Victorian accents from that era and is an idyllic spot in the middle of the city. Admission free. Open daily 6am-7pm. Garden Rd., Central. A staircase from Upper Albert Rd. leads to the main entrance.
Sam’s The Man (Just ask his customers)
Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon. Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147
Peak Tram
PEAK TRAM AND VICTORIA PEAK — The world’s steepest funicular railway hauls passengers up Victoria Peak in approximately eight minutes. Once at the top, enjoy panoramic views of the city, or check out the restaurants, shops and various attractions at the Peak Galleria and Peak Tower. The tram runs daily 7am-midnight, tickets $28 one-way, $40 round trip. Bus No. 15C runs between Peak Tram lower terminus and Central, near the Star Ferry. It costs $4.20 for a single journey. Garden Road and Cotton Tree Drive, 2522-0922. SIK SIK YUEN WONG TAI SIN TEMPLE — This active Buddhist temple is large and colorful with beautiful adjoining gardens. Have your fortune told by palm readers in the main arcade. Open 7am-5:30pm. A small donation is expected. Follow signs from Wong Tai Sin MTR stop. 2327-8141.
Man Mo Temple
MAN MO TEMPLE — This temple was built in 1847 to honor the God of Literature, Man Cheong, and the God of War, Mo Tai. A grade-1 historical building, it is one of biggest tourist attractions in Central. 124-126 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan.
Ngong Ping 360
NGONG PING 360 — Home to a theater, teahouse, nature center, cultural themed village and more, Ngong Ping 360 is best known for its 5.7-kilometer cable-car service that offers panoramic views of Lantau Island’s lush valleys, the South China Sea and the world-famous Tian Tan Buddha. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and walk five minutes to the cable-car terminal. OPEN-TOP BUS TOUR — One Big Bus day tour ticket includes 24 hour hop-on-hopoff access to the red tour (Hong Kong Island) and the blue tour (Kowloon), as well as prerecorded commentary in 10 languages and other perks. Unit KP-38, 1/F, Kowloon Star Ferry Pier, Tsim Sha Tsui, 3102-9021. 44 WH E R E HONG KONG I d e c e m ber 2 0 13
Star Ferry
STAR FERRY — Cross Victoria Harbour between Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon Peninsula on the Star Ferry. These open-deck ferries are one of Hong Kong’s most recognizable attractions and a common, cheap—and pleasant—form of transportation. Take the MTR to Central or Tsim Sha Tsui and follow the signs. ST. JOHN’S CATHEDRAL — A beautiful cathedral built in the shape of a cross. Open daily from 7am to 6pm for quiet prayer and meditation. Take the MTR to Central.
Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery
TEN THOUSAND BUDDHAS MONASTERY — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800 Buddhas stored in three temples, four pavilions and a five-story pagoda. The one that you’re likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk Yuet Kai, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin MTR, Exit B, 2691-1067, www.10kbuddhas.org.
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TAI O — This charming fishing village is a maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the very tip of Lantau Island. It’s a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, the picturesque Tin Hau Temple and a couple of interesting little museums. Take a ferry from Central.
Embassies & Consulates Argentina 2523-3208; Australia 2827-8881; Bangladesh 2827-4278; Belgium 2524-3111; Brazil 2525-7002; Canada 3719-4700; Chile 2827-1826; China (China Travel) 2853-3888; Columbia 2545-8547; Czech Republic 2802-2212; Egypt 2827-0668; Finland 2525-5385; France 3752-9900; Germany 2105-8788; Greece 2774-1682; India 3970-9900; Israel 2821-7500; Italy 2522-0033; Japan 2522-1184; Korea 25294141; Laos 2544-1186; Malaysia 2821-0800; Mexico 2511-3305; Netherlands 25229200; New Zealand 2525-5044; Pakistan 2827-0295; Philippines 2823-8501; Peru 2868-2622; Poland 2840-0779; Russia 2877-7188; Singapore 2527-2212; Spain 2525-3041; Sweden 2521-1212; Switzerland 3509-5000; Taiwan 2530-1187; Thailand 2521-6481; Turkey 2572-1331; United Arab Emirates 2866-1823; United Kingdom 2901-3000; USA 2523-9011; Venezuela 2730-8099; Vietnam 2591-4510.
Financial Matters Generally, business hours are weekdays 9am-5pm, with a lunch hour from 1pm2pm, and Saturdays 9am-1pm. The local currency is the Hong Kong dollar. There is no central mint; instead, notes are issued by three separate private banks and the city’s Monetary Authority. The Hong Kong dollar is pegged to the US dollar at a rate of approximately US$1 to HK$7.79. Denominations include $10, $20, $50, $100, $500 and $1,000 notes. Coins come in denominations of 10, 20 and 50 cents, and one, two, five and 10 dollars. BANKS — Major banks are open weekdays 9am-4:30pm, and Saturdays 9am12:30pm. Banks are closed Sundays and public holidays. Some services, such as foreign exchange-related transactions, are not available at banks one hour before closing. The following details are for the banks’ main offices, call for retail locations: Bank of America, 41/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 2847-5222; Citibank, Citibank Tower, 3 Garden Rd., Central, 2868-8888; HSBC, 1 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2233-3000; Standard Chartered Bank, 4 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2886-8868.
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Walking Tours | The Guide
A Taste of Hong Kong’s Markets For a non-stop experience like the local urbanites have, you need look no further than Yau Ma Tei and Mong Kok— the heart of the Kowloon Peninsula. Within these two neighborhoods are side streets and alleys that are home to some of Hong Kong’s liveliest markets. You’ll be amazed by the teeming masses jostling to and fro in this unique and atmospheric district. Walking through Yau Ma Tei and Mong Kok is a memorable experience any time of the day or night. You’ll love the ambience and the great deals you can get on souvenirs, clothing, electronic goods and much more.
Goldfish Market Shops selling colorful fish of different species along with furnishings and decorations for aquariums line both sides of Tung Choi Street. The shops are usually open 10:30am-10pm daily. Walk along Tung Choi Street, turn left into Bute Street and then turn right into Fa Yuen Street.
Fa Yuen Street Fa Yuen Street is the place to be if you want to find trendy fashions and casual wear for men, women and children at bargain prices. Open 11am-9:30pm daily.
Walk along Fa Yuen Street to Mong Kok Road, turn right and cross the road to reach another section of Tung Choi Street. Walk to Argyle Street and cross the road to reach the starting point of the Ladies’ Market.
Ladies’ Market
Head to the Prince Edward MTR Station and exit at B1. Walk east along Prince Edward Road West to the Yuen Po Street Bird Garden.
Yuen Po Street Bird Garden Set within an attractive Chinese-style courtyard, the Yuen Po Street Bird Garden is a market catering to the owners of pet birds. They come to the market with cage in hand to find new birds of different types and sizes, buy accessories and food for their pets, or to just take their pet birds for a “walk” and meet up with other bird owners. The garden, with its many singing avian creatures, offers a unique Hong Kong experience. Open 7am-8pm daily. 46 WH E R E HONG KONG I D EC e m ber 2 0 13
Walk through the Bird Garden to the junction of Yuen Po Street and Flower Market Road.
Flower Market This hub of Hong Kong’s wholesale and retail floral business will welcome you first with the sweet natural fragrances and then with the eye-catching colors of flowers and plants sold for very attractive prices. Open 7am-7pm daily. At the end of Flower Market Road, turn left and then right into Prince Edward Road West. Walk west until you see a gas station, then left into Tung Choi Street.
Don’t be deceived by the name. The Ladies’ Market has something for everyone, vending bargain-priced items including men’s and women’s clothing, knickknacks, watches and beauty products. Beside the stalls are Hong Kong-style cafes that offer local favorites. Open noon-11:30pm daily. Walk through the Ladies’ Market to its end at Dundas Street. Turn right and walk to Shanghai Street, then turn left.
Shanghai Street Get a taste of the bygone days of Hong Kong and visit one of the city’s oldest streets. Many of the buildings date back to the early 1900s, and some shops have existed for decades. Look for shops selling Chinese-style wedding clothes, which feature stunning embroidery. In the past there were many of these shops;
now, just a few remain. It’s also a great place to pick up bargain kitchenware. Continue along Shanghai Street and turn right at Kansu Street to find the Jade Market.
Jade Market/Jade Street About 400 registered stall-owners sell amulets, ornaments, necklaces and trinkets made from the revered green stone. This is a fun place to browse and to buy an inexpensive memento of your visit, but think twice before buying anything costly unless you are a jade expert. Open 10am-5pm daily. Nearby is Jade Street, located on Canton Road between Kansu Street and Jordan Road, with shops open Mon-Sat 10am4pm. Jade and gemstone testing is available at Jade Plaza. A giant jade stone, weighing three tons, has been placed at the junction of Canton Road and Jordan Road as a landmark. Go back to Shanghai Street, walk north to the junction of Shanghai and Public Square streets, turn right and walk to the Tin Hau Temple.
Tin Hau Temple This temple is dedicated to Tin Hau, the goddess of seafarers. Its location in the middle of Yau Ma Tei might seem odd, but long ago, before massive land reclamation, it was on the harbor. The waterfront has since been pushed to the south, but people continue to worship here. You can go inside 8am-5pm daily. Walk to Temple Street, which you’ll find on the other side of the temple.
Temple Street Night Market This is the famous night market, open from 4pm until midnight daily, where you can find all kinds of cheapo items, including clothes, sunglasses, gadgets and curios. You’ll also often see fortune tellers, Cantonese opera singers and professional Chinese chess players hanging out, too. The market becomes busy after sunset.
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December 2013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 49
Y
30 Things we LOve about Hong Kong 5
9
6
!9
1 Counting the Ten Thousand
9 Shaking fortune-telling
Buddhas at the eponymous hilltop monastery near Sha Tin.
bamboo sticks at the Wong Tai Sin Temple.
2 Dressing up for high tea at
!0 Saying hi to Bruce Lee at the Avenue of Stars, Tsim Sha Tsui.
The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6772.
3 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach, Lantau Island.
!1 Shopping at Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay.
!2 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. the Temple Street Night Market, Gough Street, Central. Yau Ma Tei. !3 Hiking along the beautiful Sai Kung peninsula. 5 Spotting endangered white dolphins with Dolphinwatch !4 Riding the cable car over off Lantau Island, 2984-1414. Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Tian Tan Buddha (Big Buddha). 6 Seeing all your animated favorites come to life at Hong Lantau Island. Kong Disneyland. Lantau Island, !5 Haggling with hawkers for 1830-830. jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and 7 Dining aboard the kitschy-cool Jumbo Floating Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei. Restaurant. Shum Wan Pier !6 Slurping oysters for brunch Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, at Cafe Deco. 1-2/F, The Peak Aberdeen, 2553-9111. Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., 2849-5111. 8 Cruising Victoria Harbour !7 Setting your watch by the on the Duk Ling, an authentic Noonday Gun. 221 Gloucester Chinese fishing junk, Rd., Causeway Bay. 2573-5282.
4 Having our palms read at
50 WH E R E HONG KONG I D EC e m ber 2 013
@4
@0
!8 Snaking through the high-rises on the Mid-Levels Escalator. Cochrane, Shelley and Peel Streets, Central. !9 Meeting Pui Pui, our famous crocodile, at the eco-friendly Hong Kong Wetland Park. Tin Shui Wai, New Territories, 2708-8885. @0 Taking the Peak Tram to visit Hong Kong celebrities at Madame Tussauds. Shop P101, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., 2849-6966. @1 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 23-35 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. @2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building to be constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill. @3 Taking the oldest ride in Hong Kong—a tram from Western (Sheung Wan) to Causeway Bay.
@4 Enjoying free traditional kung fu demonstrations and cultural performances at Kowloon Park every Sunday from 2:30–4:30pm. Weather permitting. @5 Taking a romantic trip from Central to Tsim Sha Tsui on the famous Star Ferry. @6 Walking down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defence, 2569-1500. @7 Drinking in the view at a panoramic watering hole like Eyebar. 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2487-3988. @8 Checking out the old Kowloon-Canton Railway Clock Tower. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. @9 Getting a shave and a trim at the Mandarin Barber. Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4088. #0 Bird watching at the Mai Po Marshes. Mai Po, 2526-4473.
Om Sai Ram
B E S P O K E
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