WHERE Hong Kong - January 2014 by WHERE Hong Kong

January 2014

the complete guide to go

速

Hong Kong

Chinese New Year Parade

New Coffee Shops winter spa Package

Spice Up Your Life Hot pot, claypot rice and other warming Cantonese classics

where Hong Kong 1.2014 ®

the guide

08 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events

18 art + culture Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening

24 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town

30 Drinks Our favorite places to sip a cocktail

46 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot

48 Maps Kowloon & Hong Kong Island

Also inside 36 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers 40 NAVIGATE

features

Fast facts and essential info 50 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences

6 Horsing Around Celebrate the Year of the Horse with a street parade in Tsim Sha Tsui

8 Turn Up The Heat

on the cover January 2014

the complete guide to go

Hong Kong

Enjoy a hot Hong Kong-style meal for the winter months

wintertime cuisine in

Chinese new Year Parade

new Coffee shoPs

winter sPa PaCkage

Hot pot is a traditional Hong Kong—all you need is a boiling pot of broth, veggies,

34 Tip-Top Tips Luxe City Guides founder Grant Thatcher knows the smart way to navigate through Hong Kong

Spice Up Your Life Hot pot, claypot rice and other warming Cantonese classics

meat, and a group of friends to share with. Check out where you can enjoy hot pot and other heartwarming dishes on p.12.

wheretraveler.com The website from the editors of Where Magazine. Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.

j a n u a r y 2 0 14 I WHERE hong k o n g 3

where

maga z ine

On the web: www.wherehongkong.com HK Magazine Media group acMG | ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION General MANAGER & Publisher Greg Crandall ADVERTISING director Jan Cheng Senior Advertising Manager Ashley Lui, Dominic Lalk, Oliver Cheung Business Development Manager IArun Bhavnanie Advertising Managers Keiko Ko, Hills Lau Advertising Executives Ivor Ngo, Winnie Cheng Advertising Coordinator Sharon Cheung Marketing MANAGER James Gannaban Marketing & Circulation Executive Charmaine Mirandilla IT SYSTEMS Manager Derek Wong

HK | EDITORIAL EDITOR-in-chief Zach Hines EDITOR Adele Wong CONTRIBUTORS William Hodson, Andrea Lo, Wynna Wong, Leah Oh, Sean Hebert, Elizabeth Chu

HK | PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGER Blackie Hui ART DIRECTOR Pierre Pang Senior graphic designer Mike Hung graphic designer Iris Mak

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS HK | executive PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler Vice president of operations Angela E. Allen Chief Travel Editor Geoff Kohl general manager, where maps Christopher Huber DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION Scott Ferguson NATIONAL MARKETING MANAGER Melissa Blanco

mvp | national sales VICE PRESIDENT, NATIONAL SALES Rick Mollineaux DIRECTOR OF PARTNERSHIPS & NATIONAL DIGITAL SALES Bridget Duffie NATIONAL SALES COORDINATOR David Gately

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & ceo William S. Morris III PRESident William S. Morris IV

mvp | cREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson Senior Regional Editorial Director Margaret Martin design DIRECTOR Jane Frey photography director Susan Strayer CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt

mvp | manufacturing & technology director of manufacturing Donald Horton

where

HONG KONG

Room 302, 3/F, Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Phone: 2850-5065 Fax: 2543-1880 Published by where Hong Kong Publishing Ltd., Printed by Apex Print Limited, 11-13 Dai Kwai Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, Tai Po, New Territories. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications-Where Magazine. ®

In Hong Kong, where magazine is pleased to be a member of: ®

hot dates Hong Kong By William Hodson and Adele Wong

January 31 Take It to The Streets The Cathay Pacific International Chinese New Year Night Parade is back for its 19th year. Get into the festive spirit with a spectacular array of colorful floats and performances that will surely get the streets buzzing. The parade will work its away around the Tsim Sha Tsui promenade. 8-9:30pm, Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade. For more information go to www.discoverhongkong.com/chinesenewyear.

JANuary 1

January 12

Dance the Day Away

Anything But Sharp

Kick off the year with a traditional Chinese dragon and lion dance parade along the Tsim Sha Tsui promenade. The theme this year is “Happy Buddha”, and with 530 mascots of auspicious beasts taking to the streets, this will be a performance that you won’t want to miss. 1:30-5pm. Avenue of Stars, Tsim Sha Tsui. Free. 6 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 0 14

James Blunt stops in Hong Kong for his world tour celebrating the release of his new album, “Moon Landing." There is only one show, so make sure you’re there! 8pm. AsiaWorld Expo Arena, Chek Lap Kok. $580-980 from www.hkticketing.com.

hot dates January 10 -19

January 25-31

Life Lessons Learned “Tuesdays with Morrie,” a play based on American sports columnist Mitch Albom’s memoir of the same name, is back for its 11th run in Hong Kong. The play recounts how Mitch returns to his college and reunites with his professor, Morrie. Jan 10-12, 15-16, 18-19, 2:45pm, 7:45pm. Jockey Club

Flower Power Admire the myriad options on offer at the annual Lunar New Year Flower Markets across the city, from Victoria Park in Causeway Bay to Fa Hui Park in Mong Kok. Pick up your own auspicious bud from one of the hundreds of stalls around. Jan 25-30, noon-midnight; Jan 31,

Auditorium, Hong Kong Polytechnic University. $160-280 from www.cityline.com.

midnight-6am.

January 17-25

January 1-6

January 15-23

Let’s Get Romantic

Forever Yung

String Things

The Hong Kong Philharmonic presents Schumann Fest, a weeklong affair celebrating the German composer’s popular works. Choose from his symphonies, concertos and lieder. Various times. Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10

Legendary Canto-pop star Joey Yung makes her seventh appearance at the Hong Kong Coliseum with 15 consecutive shows: a new record. Sing along to her latest hits and go prepared with glow sticks and other fan paraphernalia. Through Jan 6. Various times.

The annual Hong Kong International Chamber Music Festival is back once again, featuring artists from Hong Kong and overseas who will be performing classical pieces by Brahms, Schumann and many more composers. Five concerts will be held throughout the festival.

Hong Kong Coliseum, 9 Cheong Wan Rd., Hung Hom. $200-680 from www.urbtix.hk.

8-10pm. Various venues. For more information and tickets, check out www.pphk.org.

Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $120-320 from www.urbtix.hk.

j a n u a r y 2 0 14 I WHERE H ONG KONG 7

Y Y

Turn Up the Heat Dive into some tasty winter-friendly dishes, Hong Kong-style. By Wynna Wong

nce the temperature drops, Hongkongers look for different ways to keep warm—including eating steaming hot, winter-friendly dishes at cozy neighborhood restaurants around town. Remember to pop by one of these places for a heartwarming meal that will help you beat the winter chills.

Hot for Hot Pot Having hot pot is one of Hongkongers’ favorite winter pastimes. Family and friends gather around a boiling pot of broth in the middle of a table, tossing in fresh and raw ingredients like beef slices, fish balls and noodles, then rationing portions

onto individual plates once things start cooking. It’s a very communal style of dining—and one that’s especially popular during the colder months.

Spicy Stanley A 10-minute walk from Olympic station and located in the middle of a pedestrian street, Spicy Stanley can be a little hard to find, but the journey is worth it. One side of the restaurant is filled with cute graffiti from local artists, while the other part takes a relaxing seaside beach theme. Owner Mone Ng and his staff personally visit the market daily in search of the freshest ingredients, and if there’s

anything in particular you’re craving that’s not on the menu, call before 3pm and they’ll prepare it for you—within reason! The stars of the show, however, are the restaurant’s soup bases. They’re made with real ingredients, not artificial flavorings, under a strictly no-MSG policy, and served in Staub cast-iron pots. Try the broth made from tender beef brisket, vegetables and V8—yes, the juice. Or try congee with your choice of seafood: by the end, the congee will have soaked up all the goodness of your hot pot ingredients and you can start a whole new meal. G/F, 4 Tit Shu St., Tai Kok Tsui, 3998-3128.

Old Man Hot Pot Opened in 1991, Old Man Hot Pot is a family-run restaurant that’s famous within the Hung Hom neighborhood. Don’t expect fancy décor and molecular cuisine here; it’s all florescent lights and rough service. Proprietor Mr. Lau and his helpers are your typical, very local restaurant staff: loud, a little impatient, passionate and extremely friendly once you get past their rough edges. If you’re feeling really adventurous, try the marinated cockles, to be eaten raw, or the pig hamstrings if they’re in stock. Remember to book in advance, because they’re always busy. 25-31 Cooke St., Hung Hom, 9089-7732.

Shing Kee Noodles Sha Tin’s Siu Lek Yuen neighborhood, in the New Territories, is frequented by students of nearby Chinese University for its great local restaurants and cheap prices—Shing Kee being one of them. The entrance is hidden and unassuming but once you walk in, the space is surprisingly vast. The décor is quirky and cute, with recycled glass bottle chandeliers, a bookshelf in the center stacked high with comics, a photomontage wall on the left, and tribal masks hanging from the ceiling. Opened in 1956, the restaurant is now run by the third generation of the family. The current boss, Ah B, does noodles by day and hotpot by night. While the atmosphere is what most people come for, try their unusual soup bases too—pig soft bone soup, for instance. Spicy Stanley 8 WH E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 0 1 4

Shop 5, Lek Yuen Estate Market, Sha Tin, 2692-6611.

Melting Pot Craving something cheesy? A fondue might just be your cure. Café at Hyatt Regency will be offering a Swiss Cheese Fondue dinner from now until February 28. Enjoy a country-style air-dried meat platter, consisting of traditional European treats such as German pickles, gherkins and radishes with smoked salmon rillettes. Enjoy the set with a Zurich-style veal or grilled salmon fillet. The cheese fondue dinner is available for a minimum of two persons, at $428 per person. Hyatt Regency, 18 Chak Cheung St., Sha Tin, 3723-1234. Old Man Hot Pot

Lin Kee

Old Man Hot Pot

It’s a dim sum restaurant by day but, come nightfall, Lin Kee turns into a steaming, noisy hot pot destination where patrons can get buzzed on beer, get into heated discussions about Hong Kong politics, and generally have a great time. Strike up a conversation with the waitresses; they might let you in on their secret stash of high-quality, hand-cut beef—if they like you. Beverley Commercial Centre, 87-105 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2573-8833.

Supreme Restaurant

Shing Kee Noodles

Characterized by the abundance of herbs, spices and, of course, chicken, Chongqingstyle chicken hot pot is known for its robust taste and spiciness—perfect for the colder months. Supreme Restaurant is one of the more famous chains in the city, with another store in Tsuen Wan and a newly opened branch in Causeway Bay. It’s famous for good, fresh food and really bad service—you’ve been warned. 18/F, Chong Hing Square, 593-601 Nathan Rd., Mong Kok.

Canton Pot Shing Kee Noodles

The newly opened Canton Pot at the Lodgewood Mongkok hotel specializes in

dishes cooked and served in pots. You can order everything from Korean stone pot rice to Chinese claypot rice here—and of course, there’s also the hot pot. For hot pot sets, there are over 100 ingredients to choose from, including Miyazaki beef and American marbled beef, handmade meat pastes and cuttlefish balls, organic tofu and fresh mushrooms. Examples of soup bases include a whelk and fish maw broth, and a mixed mushroom broth. For people who want to hot pot it alone, there are also sets for one to choose from, based on three styles: Japanese, Korean and vegetarian. The vegetarian hot pot set comes with greens like fresh cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce and meatless wonton dumplings. 2/F, Lodgewood by L’Hotel Mongkok Hong Kong, 1131 Canton Rd., Mong Kok, 3968-7888.

Hotpot Instinct The word on the street is that Hotpot Instinct serves up some of the freshest ingredients in town. The soup bases are pretty unique too—try Cantonese apple, or Japanese sake and flower crab. Then there’s the Golden Seafood base, which has a unique color that comes from using pumpkins. If you’re looking to cool down, order some sashimi, which is also available on the menu. Shop 3-5, 18 Tanner Rd., North Point, 2573-2844. j a n u a r y 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 9

Down To Earthenware

Wing Hap Sing

Claypot rice is another popular dish eaten in winter. It’s exactly as it sounds: rice cooked inside of an earthenware pot, usually over an open fire. The rice is topped with various ingredients, from minced beef to seafood to chicken and mushrooms, and once cooked, gets a drizzling of soy sauce for added flavor.

Hing Kee The lines that stretch outside the eateries around Temple Street don’t lie. You’re not going to get great service, and bumping shoulders with strangers squeezed into the same table as you is guaranteed, but at restaurants like Hing Kee, the atmosphere is authentic and the food is delicious. The outdoor seating, especially in cool weather, offers a nice contrast to the piping hot, fresh-fromthe stove claypot rice in front of you. Remember to also try Hing Kee’s other specialties, like clams in black bean sauce and fermented bean curd with spinach. G/F, 14-21 Temple St. & 48 Arthur St., Yau Ma Tei, 2384-3647.

Wing Hap Sing opens bright and early at 6am and only serves lunch and breakfast. The 40-year-old restaurant fills with patrons when the clock strikes lunch hour. Wing Hap Sing’s manager, Ms. Hui, explains that the restaurant’s claypot rice is actually oven-baked instead of cooked on a stovetop, but if you want that extra crunchy bottom—made when the rice turns crispy brown from the heat of the pot—you can ask for it for an additional fee. Try Wing Hap Sing’s most famous claypot rice with minced beef and a raw egg cracked on top.

Reptile Rhapsody Snake broth is a traditional wintertime treat in Hong Kong, and there are quite a few specialty restaurants across town that offer this delicacy. Tam Kum-sun, the owner of Se Wong Sun in Causeway Bay, tells Elizabeth Chu all about this age-old tradition.

G/F, 113-115 Jervois St., Sheung Wan, 2850-5723.

Four Seasons Pot Rice Four Seasons is another Temple Street celebrity with even longer lines, despite being a little newer; expect a half-hour wait on busy days. Four Seasons offers a unique dining experience: long rows of tables across a spacious semi-outdoor room. The fried oyster cakes are also a staple here; they’re thick with a crispy exterior and juicy center filled with hot little oysters. 46-58 Arthur St., Yau Ma Tei.

Tam Kum-sun

Where: Can you tell us more about Hong Kong’s snake-eating tradition? Tam Kum-sun: Snake dishes are a part of Cantonese cuisine. Everything initially started in Guangzhou in China. People were trying to figure out how they could include snake into their dishes—that was when snake broth was invented.

Hing Kee

W: Is snake still a popular food in Hong Kong? TKS: Sure! I have customers from the age of 3 to 90. It used to be mostly the Cantonese who ate snake dishes, but now, because of media coverage and the Internet, we get more customers from other parts of China, and even from different countries. W: Is snake good for the body? TKS: Snake is a traditional ingredient in Chinese medicine. You can frequently find it in medicine that heals colds. Snake meat also contains a lot of protein.

Wong Hap Sing 10 WH E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 0 1 4

Wong Hap Sing

W: How is snake a good winter food? TKS: In Chinese medicine theories, snake has the effect of “driving away coldness”, literally meaning it can get rid of the feeling of cold in your body.

Eating snake soup will keep you “warm” in winter weather. W: How many snake species are there in Hong Kong? TKS: There are about 10 to 20 snake species in Hong Kong. Our snake broth has about four to five different species in it.

What happened at the Pinewood Battery? *

W: What’s the biggest snake you’ve ever seen in Hong Kong? TKS: I remember it was in the 1990s, I caught a boa constrictor weighing 60 kilograms! It was as thick as my thighs. Normal-sized snakes are only about 1 kilogram. You can imagine how big and heavy it was. W: Are poisonous snakes edible? TKS: Yes they are, but more often we choose snakes that are not, or less poisonous. Non-poisonous snakes are meatier. On the other hand, poisonous snakes allegedly have more healing properties. So we try to have a mixture of both kinds of snakes in our snake dishes. W: What are some types of snake dishes your restaurant offers? TKS: Our most famous dish is snake broth. We have other snake dishes in our menu like snake soup, claypot rice with snake loin and snake fried rice. The three-course set of snake broth, snake soup and claypot rice is also quite popular. Visit Se Wong Sun at G/F, Fortune Mansion, 10-12 Cross Street, Wan Chai, 2891-6639. *Learn about this and other fascinating facts in

Historical Hong Kong Hikes A guide to 15 remarkable treks, detailing the rich history of the SAR’s peaks, valleys and urban neighborhoods

In all major bookstores now! Or order yours at: www.historicalhkhikes.com with free delivery.

j a n u a r y 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 11

Tel: 2730 1251

where

the guide Seeing Red For Hongkongers, red is an auspicious color, especially during the new year. Perfect timing, then, for vodka maker Belvedere to team up with global non-profit diseaseprevention intiative (RED) to create a special-edition bottle that can be bought at select shops across the city. The price per bottle is $380, and 50 percent of the profits will go to The Global Fund, the direct beneficiary of (RED). Available at Watsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wine Cellar, Sogo and Market Place by Jasons.

Art+culture | The Guide

Breathing Life Into the Streets Get a glimpse of streetscapes from around the world. By Leah Oh Eight photographers have come together to exhibit their pictures of street scenes, taken from all over the world, at the Flanhardt Galerie Und Atelier. Through the “Streets of Life” exhibition, the street scenes of 10 different countries will be showcased, from China to Russia and the United States. Get an upclose view of exotic outdoor markets, fantastic architecture, gritty shop windows, street graffiti, as well as everyday civilians doing their thing in their own city. The photographers are: Philip Chan, Karen Choi, Chris Coelho, Irene Flanhardt, Tracey Van Geest, Annie Kwong, Leon Sune and Mable Tsang. Through February 28. 3/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central.

Antiques ALTFIELD GALLERY — Altfield Gallery deals in Southeast Asian sculpture and decorative arts, antique maps and topographical prints relating to Asia, as well as Chinese, Tibetan and Caucasian carpets. Altfield also produces a range of reproduction furniture and accessories in the Chinoiserie style. Shipping available. Shop 248-9, 2/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-6370, www.altfield.com.hk. ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUES — The three-story shop houses large collections of Qing dynasty porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic stone and bronze sculptures and buddhas, and terracotta sculptures from China and SouthEastern Asia are found in the viewing galleries, plus there are over 200 paintings in the extensive ancestral scroll collection. G/F, 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848.

CHINA ART — This leading restorer and dealer in fine Asian antique furniture and artifacts holds frequent exhibitions and has published two books, “Antiques in the Raw” and “Regional Furniture.” Go to the website to see what’s in stock. Unit 26-27, 15/F, Tower A, Southmark, 11 Yip Hing St., Aberdeen, 2542-0982, www.chinaart.com.hk. DRAGON CULTURE — Specializes in dinosaur egg fossils, Han Dynasty terracotta, Tang sculptures and Ming porcelain figures. 231 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 25458098, www.dragonculture.com.hk. JOYCE GALLERY — Specializing in ancient sculptures and archaic bronzes from across China, Joyce displays a collection of antiquities dating to the Shang dynasty, including ancient bronzes, stone carvings, gold and silver ware, jade, pottery and Buddhist works. It guarantees its descriptions of the period and history of its items and offers a full refund if the purchased item does not match the description. Shop 1, 123 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-1869, www.joycegallery.com.

Lam & Co Antiquities

LAM & CO ANTIQUITIES — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silver ware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offers repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services. 2/F, 151 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877, www.lamantiquities.com. OI LING ANTIQUES — Oi Ling's Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items dating as far back as the Neolithic era. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2815-9422, www.oilingantiques.com.

You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.

14 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 0 1 4

Art+culture | The Guide WATTIS FINE ART — Specializes in antique maps of Asia, and historical photographs and prints of China, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia. 2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302, www.wattis.com.hk.

Galleries 10 CHANCERY LANE GALLERY — Focusing on established and emerging international artists, 10 Chancery Lane consists of three large gallery spaces. It holds exhibitions of sculptures, paintings, photographs, installations and videos, as well as performances by renowned artists. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, SoHo, 2810-0065, www.10chancerylanegallery.com. AGNèS B. LIBRAIRIE GALERIE — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnès b. has a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world. G/F, 118 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2869-5505, www.agnesb.com. ALISAN FINE ARTS — This well-established gallery has organized more than 100 exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world. Run by respected art-world figure Alice King, who has worked with the Guggenheim Museum, it also mounts exhibitions for overseas venues. Room 2305, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091, www.alisan.com.hk. AP Contemporary— AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2148, www.apcontemporary.com. ART BEATUS — Established in the early 1990s, Art Beatus features mainly original paintings and art by contemporary Chinese artists. Some of its collection has a retro slant, and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoon as vehicles for expression. Has branches in Vancouver and on Queen’s Road Central. G/F, 50 Peel St., Central, 2522-1138, www.artbeatus.com. ASIA FINE ART — Dedicated to promoting young Asian artists at affordable prices, this gallery has regular exhibitions of work from China, Vietnam and Indonesia and Myanmar for sale on site and online. 14 Sik On St., Wan Chai (entrance at 99 Queen’s Rd. East), 2522-0405, www.asia-fineart.com.

Asia Society Hong Kong

ASIA SOCIETY HONG KONG — Asia Society Hong Kong's big, brand-spankin’-new headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences, the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. 16 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 0 1 4

Closed Mon. G/F, 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511, www.asiasociety.org/hong-kong. THE CAT STREET GALLERY — Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the world. 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006, www.thecatstreetgallery.com. CONNOISSEUR ART GALLERY — Specializing in contemporary Chinese fine art since 1989, Connoisseur features such acclaimed artists as Paris-based Jia Juan-li, renowned Guangzhou artist Zhang Da-zhong and still life artist Liu Ying-zhao. Shop G3, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2868-5358, www.connoisseur-art.com. CONTEMPORARY BY ANGELA LI — Perhaps best known for introducing Chinese artists Chen Jiagang and Liao Yibai to the art world, CBAL boasts a lovely space and a carefully curated exhibition program. G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3571-8200, www.cbal.com.hk.

GROTTO FINE ART — Curated by Henry Auyeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery represents local artists, with an interest in new and avant-garde art forms. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixed-media and installation pieces. 2/F, 31C-D Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270, www.grottofineart.com. HANART TZ GALLERY — A specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone. 401 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019, www.hanart.com. Lehmann Maupin Gallery — With the original branch in New York and with its reputation of supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery opened its doors here on March 14. Architect Rem Koolhas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Room 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central.2530-0025, hongkong@lehmanmaupin.com.

De Sarthe Gallery

DE SARTHE GALLERY — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the U.S. and Europe, de Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, Club Lusitano, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896, desarthe.com. GAGOSIAN GALLERY — With 12 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. They opened their doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an all-new exhibition by Damien Hirst—Gagosian only exhibits the crème-de-lacrème of the art world. Closed Mon. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555, www.gagosian.com.

Opera Gallery

OPERA GALLERY — Opera Gallery features works by world-famous international artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Gerard Rancinan and Lita Cabellut, among others. W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-1208, www.operagallery.com. Puerta Roja — Puerta Roja was established to promote Latin American art and artists to the Hong Kong audience. Drawings, etchings, glasswork and sculptures are all featured here. Shop A, G/F, Wai Yue Building, 15-17 New St., Sheung Wan, 9729-1773. PICTURE THIS — The city’s largest affordable art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children’s rooms, and sporting prints. Suite 1308, 13/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820, www.picturethiscollection.com.

Galerie Du Monde

GALERIE DU MONDE — Galerie du Monde hosts exhibitions by Chinese artists including Li Shuang, Le Longyao, Yu Xiaohui, Hon Chifun and Pan Xun. Its conservation studio provides a complete restoration service for works of art on paper and canvas. Shop 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Center, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529, www.galeriedumonde.com.

Plum Blossoms Gallery

PLUM BLOSSOMS GALLERY — Recognized for its exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection ofmuseum-quality ancient textiles, Plum Blossoms is an established platform for the promotion of both ancient and

Hong Kong

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Where to go? Where Hong Kong’s eBook version is your monthly digital tour guide to Hong Kong, perfect for city-dwellers and friends and visitors alike. From the coolest new restaurants to the can’t-miss sightseeing spots, taking an issue of Where Hong Kong on the go is like putting a local Hongkonger in your back pocket. Subscribe to our e-book now at http://hk-magazine.com/user/register

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modern arts. 14/F, Cheung Tak Building, 30 Heung Yip Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2521-2189, www.plumblossoms.com. SHIN HWA GALLERY — Focusing on Asian contemporary art, Shin Hwa features both upcoming and established artists. It is particularly committed to innovative Korean artists. Room 4A, Yue On Commercial Building, 385 Lockhart Rd., Wan Chai, 2803-7960, www.shinhwagallery.com.

White Cube

WHITE CUBE — One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first non-UK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials—for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. Closed Mon. G-1/F, 50 Connaught Rd. Central, 2592-2000, www.whitecube.com. ZEE STONE GALLERY — Zee Stone, established in 1991, exhibits a wide range of contemporary artists from mainland China, using both ink and color on paper and oil on canvas. The gallery’s exhibitions reflect the rich diversity of contemporary Chinese art, including abstract landscapes, realistic portraits, paintings on rice paper by traditionally trained Chinese masters and new work by a younger generation in acrylic and mixed media. G/F, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2810-5895, www.zeestone.com.

Museums FLAGSTAFF HOUSE MUSEUM OF TEAWARE — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-inchief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Closed Tue. 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Hong Kong Park, Central, 2869-0690, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG FILM ARCHIVE — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Tuesdays. 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139. 18 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 0 1 4

Art+culture

HONG KONG HERITAGE MUSEUM — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. It features permanent exhibitions on the New Territories, Cantonese opera and a Children’s Discovery Gallery. Closed Tues. 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188, www.hk.heritage.museum.

Hong Kong Maritime Museum

HONG KONG MARITIME MUSEUM — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong's growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier No. 8, 3713-2500, www.hkmaritimemuseum.org. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF ART — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0116, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF HISTORY — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. Closed Tue. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042, www.hk.history.museum.

Hong Kong Museum Of Medical Sciences

HONG KONG MUSEUM OF MEDICAL SCIENCES — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both Western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Closed Mon. 2 Caine Lane, MidLevels, 2549-5123, www.hkmms.org.hk. LAW UK FOLK MUSEUM — Law Uk, which means “Law’s House” after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. Free admission. Closed Thu. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006, www.hk.history.museum. LEI CHENG UK HAN TOMB MUSEUM — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, this is one of the city’s most fascinating monuments. Closed Thu. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863, www.hk.history.museum. j a n u a r y 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 19

dining | The Guide

Coffee Nation Adele Wong explores the latest coffee shops to hit the streets.

ith the proliferation of new cafés in recent months, coffee appreciation in our city is at an all-time high. But with appreciation comes competition—and these coffee masters are setting themselves apart from the crowd.

Space to Drink It’s true that Hong Kong has been obsessed with coffee for quite some time now, but it wasn’t until earlier this year that coffee appreciation officially extended beyond the product itself, to embrace the lifestyle that it represents. Some of the most popular indie cafés last year were cozy spaces like Knockbox on Tai Ping Shan Street (now relocated to a more spacious venue at G/F, 21 Hak Po St., Mong Kok, 2781-0363), Il Caffe in Sheung Wan (now a two-story space at G/F, 50 Gage St., Central, 2545-6663) and Rabbithole in Central (now settling into a bigger facility at 3 Landale St., Wan Chai, 2528-0039)—places which arguably focused more on the science and techniques behind making a good brew, than on creating a comfortable environment to enjoy it in. The new coffee shops of 2013, by contrast, are starting out as sizeable units right off the bat. Newcomer Lof 10 (G/F, 1 U Lam Terrace, Sheung Wan, 2540-2210) has taken the pains to import a whole culture—in this case, the West Coast lifestyle—to a lofty, airy space up on the isolated southern slopes of Sheung Wan. “Everyone in Hong Kong is so rushed,” says owner Eugene Chan, who runs his minimalistic and uniquely zen coffee shop alongside partner Marcus Liu. Having

Common Ground

Lof 10

both spent time in Los Angeles, Chan and Liu decided to spread the West Coast gospel of chillaxation to timepressed Hongkongers, with a venue that encourages patrons to linger. The nearby Common Ground (19 Shing Wong St., Sheung Wan, 2818-8318) is another example of the West Coast influence. Proprietor Josh Ng, who runs the rustic-looking coffee and retail shop with his twin brother Caleb, says: “Hong Kong needs more neighborhood cafés, California-style, where you can hang out for a long time without someone hurrying you away.” Farther west, Opendoor Café (G/F, 120 Connaught Rd. West, Sai Ying Pun, 3460-3880) in Sai Ying Pun is a high-ceilinged venue that offers a relaxed setting to thoroughly enjoy a brew while browsing provocative wall pieces by artists, like graffiti maestro Mr. Mena. Bonus: Opendoor also offers almond milk-based drinks for coffee lovers who are lactose-intolerant.

Lof 10 20 WH E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 0 1 4

Tamper Coffee Company

Method Men Shiny, fancy espresso machines—which force pressurized hot water through a “puck” of coffee grounds—might help a barista look the part, but cafés that strive to differentiate themselves further will also offer plenty of other brewing methods to the discerning drinker. “Hand-drip coffee has many layers, and expresses different characteristics at different temperatures,” says Nick Wan, owner of the small, trendy Tamper Coffee Company (Shop G3, 3 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui, 9728-1285). Wan carefully measures the coffee grounds, uses an exact amount of water and filters everything through a Hario V60 drip cone to make each cup of hand-drip coffee. Generally these coffees are more subtle and nuanced compared to your intense machine-made espressos. Cafés that take their brewing seriously will be offering you at least a handful of these options. We’re living in a coffee renaissance. Grab a cup, and start sipping.

dining

Time For Tea Two afternoon tea options. By Adele Wong

Above & Beyond

Dim Sum And Then Some

Bling Thing

Hotel Icon’s Chinese restaurant Above & Beyond has launched a Chinese-style weekend afternoon tea set, in case you get bored of the usual cucumber sandwiches and scones with clotted cream. The $488 Oriental Afternoon Tea Set for two comes with delectable dim sum such as crispy taro cake, prawn puffs, traditional steamed beef balls, and smoked duck breast in steamed Chinese buns, also known as “bao”. End with a chestnut crème brûlée and other delicate sweets. Available weekends and public holidays from 3-5:30pm.

Stepping up the game, the Ritz-Carlton and diamond jeweler Graff have teamed up for a heartstopping $10,880 set for two that includes financiers made with Tahitian vanilla, Dom Perignon jelly, Osetra caviar, foie gras “apples,” black-truffle-topped chocolate, panna cotta dotted with bird’s nest and gold leaf, and other luxurious and pricey treats. Personal butler included as part of the whole experience. The tea set can be served out of a luxury trunk decked out in jewels and Graff accessories, at a private corner of your choice. Available from Jan 1 onwards.

28/F, Hotel Icon, 17 Science Museum Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 3400-1000.

International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2270.

Admiralty

AMMO

Ammo — Western. Tapas and pastas can be had at this posh Asia Society eatery housed in a former British army magazine compound. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2537-9888.$$$ DAN RYAN’S — American. $$$ Dan Ryan’s prides itself on Chicago-style chow. Shop 112, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2845-4600. METROPOL — Dim sum. $ Beef balls, steamed shrimp dumplings, pork-and-shrimp dumplings, stuffed rice rolls and other Hong Kong specialties are wheeled around in traditional trolleys for an authentic dim sum experience. 4/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty, 2865-1988.

NICHOLINI’S — Italian. $$$$ This restaurant gets kudos from honest-to-goodness Italians, and that’s good enough for us. 8/F, Conrad International Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2521-3838. PETRUS — French. $$$$ This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The décor is a bit ostentatious, but the opulence suits the magnificent view. 56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2820-8590.

Causeway Bay Hooray — Italian. $$. Al fresco drinks and dining in a casual setting complete with a magnificent harbor view. Shop P502, 5/F, World Trade Center, 280 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2895 0885. IPPUDO — Ramen. $ Japan’s famous chain serves ramen in bowls so enormous they should be called cauldrons, with a meaty, savory broth, tender pork pieces, springy noodles and tangy spring onions topped with fungus and bean sprouts. 2/F, 8 Russell St., 2892-2387.

Above & Beyond

Ritz-Carlton x Graff

MANGO TREE — Thai. $$-$$$ Somehow, in the middle of bustling Causeway Bay, in a high-rise chock-full of other restaurants and bars, Mango Tree manages to be an oasis of dim lighting, carefully placed flowers and good Thai food. 5/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-0828. Sorabol — Korean. $$ The smell wafting from the open barbecues in the middle of each table will get your appetite going— which is a good thing, since you’ll want to try everything. 18/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival St., 2881-6823. Tott’s — Modern Asian/Western. $$$-$$$$ Sophisticated décor, harbor-view seats, and perfectly crafted entrees are the hallmark here. The attentive service also deserves special mention. 34/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., 2837-6786.

Central & Lan Kwai Fong AMBER — Modern French. $$$$ Modern, inventive French cuisine meets attentiongrabbing decor. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066. j a n u a r y 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 21

dining | The Guide Brickhouse — Mexican. $$. Imagine street-side Mexican combined with hipster-chic décor and upbeat music. Phone reservations not allowed and queues form quickly at peak hours so early arrival recommended. G/F, 20A D’Aguilar St. Boqueria — Spanish. $$$ Feast on tasty tapas and bomba rice paellas at this chain from New York. 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2321-8681.

LIN HEUNG Lau— Cantonese. $$ The setup has changed little in more than 50 years and it still remains a popular hangout for those craving a bit of old Hong Kong nostalgia and really, really good food. Most people come here for daytime dim sum, but dinner’s great too. 160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556.

SPICES — Pan-Asian. $$$ Below a glassy high-rise, this restaurant is devoted to showcasing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East.” It also offers a fantastic view of the South China Sea and the sandy shores below. G/F, The Arcade, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2821.

Lung King Heen

Duddell’s — Cantonese. $$$. Serves Chinese fusion by former T’ang Court Chef Siu Hin-chi. The art pieces on display are another highlight. Levels 3 & 4, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., 2525-9191.

LUNG KING HEEN — Cantonese. $$$-$$$$ Three Michelin Stars. The name means “view of the dragon” and the floor-to-ceiling windows make the case. Stylish décor, flawless service and traditional as well as innovative dishes only add to the appeal. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8880.

ISLAND TANG — Cantonese. $$$$ Shanghai Tang founder David Tang’s art-deco dining space is a welcome bright spot amid Central’s modern office towers, with top local cuisine to match. Shop 222, 2/F, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-8798. ISOLA BAR & GRILL — Italian. $$$$ The glam factor is off the scale, with stunning harbor views and high ceilings, not to mention handmade pastas, pizzas, risottos and more. Shop 3071-75, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., 2383-8765.

L’Atelier De Joel Robuchon

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON — French. $$$$ The Frenchman named “Chef of the Century” by Gault Millau designs authentic dishes with exquisite finesse and precision, which are then turned out by highly trained chefs in the open kitchen. Shop 315 & 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2166-9000. 22 WH E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 0 1 4

THE VERANDAH — Continental/International. $$$ Book brunch in time to get a seat at this popular spot. On other days, the a la carte menu never disappoints. Closed Mon. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2822.

SoHo JASHAN — Indian. $$ Immediately impressive, with dim lighting, vermilion walls and colonial furnishings, Jashan offers an extensive menu, delicious food and hotel-level service. 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., 3105-5300. POSTO PUBBLICO — American Italian. $$$ Hip Greenwich Village types come to get their fill of such dishes as veal meatballs and sandwiches of homemade mozzarella, eggplant and lashings of balsamic vinegar. 28 Elgin St., 2577-7160.

Fatty Crab — Southeast Asian. $$$. A branch of the popular Fatty Crab Restaurant in New York. Expect a delectable mix of South-East Asian flavors. 11-13 Old Bailey St., 2521-2033. INAGIKU — Japanese. $$$ The Hong Kong branch of one of Japan’s oldest and best-known restaurants, it lives up to the buzz: authentic, delicious and quiveringly fresh. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 2805-0600.

THE PEAK LOOKOUT — International. $$$ Offering an alfresco terrace with a view, this restaurant features an open, bright and airy environment—more like a mountain lodge than a country club—and excellent fare. 121 Peak Rd., 2849-1000.

Repulse Bay

CAPRICE — French. $$$$ Three Michelin Stars. Splurge on haute cuisine at this French restaurant staffed by chefs formerly of Le Cinq in Paris. The gorgeous interior includes floorto-ceiling windows. 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8860.

Duddell’s

The Peak

Mayta

Mayta — Peruvian. $$$ Indulge in colorful and multi-textured dishes like seafood ceviche at one of LKF’s most popular new restos. 3/F, Grand Progress Building, 15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, 2790-0928. pierre — French. $$$$ Masterminded by threeMichelin-star chef Pierre Gagnaire, this is a bastion of fine French dining. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4001. SEVVA — Contemporary. $$$$ The brainchild of local socialite Bonnie Gokson, this 22,000-square-foot penthouse restaurant comes with a buzzing wraparound terrace. The elegant eatery serves dishes drawn from Cantonese, Shanghainese, Indian and British culinary concepts. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., 2537-1388. YELLOW DOOR KITCHEN — Sichuan. $$ Hong Kong’s first private kitchen, this favorite has been serving up fiery Sichuan cuisine since the early 1990s. 6/F, Cheung Hing Commercial Building, 37 Cochrane St., 2858-6555. ZUMA — Japanese. $$$$ This is one goodlooking restaurant, split over two floors and linked by a sumptuous staircase. It’s the local branch of London’s famed eatery, offering a sophisticated twist on the traditional izakaya. 5-6/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3657-6388.

Yardbird

YARDBIRD — Yakitori. $$$ This is a no-frills yet achingly modern two-story yakitori joint in a trendy corner of the district. The skewers are mostly chicken-based, and taken from every part of the chicken’s body from the heart to the skin. Don’t forget to sample the house sake. 33-35 Bridges St., 2547-9273.

Tsim Sha Tsui

Angelini

ANGELINI — Italian. $$$-$$$$ With Italian native Marco Medaglia at the helm, Angelini serves up unpretentious food, with an emphasis on ingredients air-freighted from Italy three times a week. Also has a great harbor view. Mezzanine, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., 2733-8750.

dining

FELIX — Fusion. $$$$ Still one of the swankiest restaurants in town, with Philippe Starck décor, modern food and famous bathrooms. It’s glam, contemporary and kid-free. 28/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, 2696-6778. FOOK LAM MOON — Cantonese. $$$$ Devotees swear this place serves the best Cantonese cuisine in the world. It’s been the place to go for southern Chinese delicacies for more than five decades. 55 Kimberley Rd., 2366-0286. HUTONG — Northern Chinese. $$$$ Dark wood furnishings and a fabulous harbor view make for a modern-day Chinese dining hall. The food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., 3428-8342. MORTON’S OF CHICAGO — Steak. $$$$ With huge slabs of prime, aged beef accompanied by what looks like the winning entries in a hard-fought vegetable show, Morton’s is one of the best steak restaurants in Hong Kong. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., 2732-2343.

Nobu

NOBU — Japanese. $$$$ Mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution, this famous restaurant deserves the hype. Sushi is a must, as is the amazing black cod. 2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323. Ruth’s Chris — Steak. $$$$ American steakhouse, with USDA Prime cuts served alongisde rich sides like spinach au gratin and tempura onion rings. Shop 108-110, 1/F, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2366-6000.

Spoon

SPOON — French. $$$$ Chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows, a fabulous harbor view and an innovative modern menu. Lobby, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323. T’ANG COURT — Cantonese. $$$$ This little gem serves some of the city’s finest Cantonese cuisine. 1/F, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., 2132-7898. j a n u a r y 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 23

dining

Whisk — Modern European. $$$ Whisk is known for its contemporary European dishes and extensive wine list that is relatively more affordable than other fine diners. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., 2315-5999. YE SHANGHAI — Shanghainese. $$$ With upscale cuisine served in shareable portions, this is the place for Shanghainese dishes like camphor-smoked duck with pancakes. Also known for its interior full of fabulous chinoiserie. 6/F, The Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, 3 Canton Rd., 2376-3322.

Wan Chai

Bo Innovation

BO INNOVATION — Asian. $$$-$$$$ Experimental cuisine pairing local ingredients with delicacies imported from across the world. Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., 2850-8371.

Catalunya

NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT! Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418

www.outback.com.hk

Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823

Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan

Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai

Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay

Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728

24 WH E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 0 1 4

Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918

Catalunya — Spanish. $$$$ This 7,500 square feet of restaurant and bar space offers Catalan-style dishes such as roasted suckling pig and lobster rice. G/F, Guardian House, 32 Oi Kwan Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-7900. MADAM SIXTY EIGHT — European. $$$ At this posh eclectic eatery, an open kitchen faces the diners, with chefs readying exquisitely prepared dishes scurrying around. Shop 8, 1/F, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-2558. THE PAWN — British. $$$ Serving fabulous food in a faithful restoration of an 1888 landmark building, The Pawn houses a bar and a restaurant with a roof and a breezy balcony overlooking Johnston Road. The menu has modern British fare with a luxurious twist. 2/F, 62 Johnston Rd., 2866-3444. WOOLOOMOOLOO — Australian/New Zealand. $$$ This steakhouse is several places at once: a laid-back wine bar and a casual drinks terrace on the rooftop, and a fine-dining steakhouse below. 31/F-Rooftop, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960.

Taste of the city special advertising section

Spice features the

Enjoy a COMPLIMENTARY DESSERT with this ad

“Bollywood and Belly Dance Night’’,

a regular performance by two belly dancers, held every Thursday at 8:30pm .

* for dine-in and a la carte menu only We provide fine Thai, Indian and Malay cuisine with good selection of fine wines. Come experience our flavours of coriander, cumin, chili and lemongrass. Spice up your evening with friends!

Our chefs have also come up with a special menu to swing and sway to the diners’ delight of this groovy atmosphere.

www.spice-restaurant.hk 2/F, No.1 Knutsford Terrace, Tsim Sha Tsui, Tsim Sha Tsui Kowloon. Reservations: 2191 9880 / 2191 9886 Daily Opening Hours: Lunch: Mon – Sun 12nn – 3pm Dinner: Sun – Thu 6pm – 11pm Fri – Sat 6pm – 11:30pm

j a n u a r y 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 25

Drinks | The Guide

What’s Your Drink? Three new bars with three different personalities. By Andrea Lo

From On High One of Hong Kong actress Carina Lau’s three new concept bars and restaurants at The One, Tapagria is a sky-high Spanish-themed bar that turns into a dance lounge with DJs pumping out beats every weekend. Expect a sangria menu with 60 types of fruit and plenty of Spanish Cava. 18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2147-0111.

Duddell’s Tapagria

Duddell’s gorgeous bar/Chinese restaurant/ artsy exhibition space has been very popular since it opened. Perched atop the Shanghai Tang Mansion in Central, Duddell’s comes complete with a massive garden terrace. There’s a creative menu on offer—think old school faves with a Hong Kong twist, like the Victoria Sling or the Special Administrative Sazerac House, flavored with Sichuan pepper.

I’ll Have Fries With That New York City-style food and drink take center stage at Eastside Tavern. Alongside big portions of your burger and fries, try equally big drinks like a frozen strawberry mojito or a spicy Bloody Mary. Shop G30-33 & 49-51, Empire Centre, 68 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2367-8770.

Bars & Clubs

Angel’s Share

121BC — This import from Sydney, Australia offers biodynamic wines from Italian producers. 42-44 Peel St., Central, 2395-0200. ANGEL’S SHARE — This unique drinking loft is specifically designed for whisky lovers. Sourced from Scotland to Japan, there’s enough aged golden liquid here to suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-8388. AQUA spirit — For cocktails with a killer vista, you can do no better than this swanky high-rise venue with an eagle’s eye view of the harbor. 30/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. Azure — Stunning view, minimalist blue décor and great cocktails. 29/F, LKF Hotel, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 3518-9330.

Cheeky Classic

Eastside Tavern

Beijing Club — This impressive megaclub recently celebrated its sixth anniversary and is the biggest in town. Expect wet-look vinyl walls, gold-plated bathrooms and a youthful crowd. 2-3/F & 5/F, Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington St., Central, 2526-8298.

3-4/F, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-9191.

Central Wine Club — This exclusive spot on Wyndham Street was designed with oenophiles in mind. Luxe, modern Baroque surrounds keep pace with the slow jazz and contemporary tunes. 3/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2147-3448.

Blckbrd — This chilled-out spot has an official “no loud music” policy, making it the perfect place for a few low-key drinks. Located on the sixth floor, the outdoor terrace is a serene place to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2545-8555.

CLUB@28 — This stylish bar has killer views, deadly cocktails and its very own outdoor oasis called The Pavilion. It’s members only, but you can join on arrival and it’s free. 28/F, Crowne Plaza Hotel, 8 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 3980-3300.

BLUE BAR — The upscale Blue Bar is a big hit with the cocktail set. Yes, the martinis are worth getting dressed up for. Lobby, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8830.

DRAGON-I — Watch the bold and the beautiful work the celeb-studded room. It’s usually packed with models, especially on Wednesday nights. Podium, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 3110-1222.

Café Gray Deluxe — Beside the seductively stretched bar are cozy booths for intimate lounging, and its 49th-floor perch guarantees breathtaking harbor views. Cocktail lovers should try the Hong Kong Highball. 49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106.

EXECUTIVE BAR — So quiet that the sound of a ninja’s sword slicing through silk would be cause for shushing. Well, not really, but it is quiet, Japanese and well-stocked with Scotch—the drink of the introspective man. 27/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 2893-2080.

For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at bars, restaurants and coffee shops).

26 W H E R E HONG KONG I J a n u a r y 2014

Drinks GRAPPA’S CELLAR — This bustling after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians. B/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322.

MCSORLEY’S ALE HOUSE — Woody, Irish and vaguely Victorian, McSorley’s is the biggest pub in SoHo. 55 Elgin St., Central, 2522-2646.

SUGAR — Sink into one of the sofas at this swanky rooftop bar and enjoy the amazing views of the harbor. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Quarry Bay, 3968-3738.

MO BAR — The bar at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental is a sleek, upscale addition to the nightlife scene. G/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0077.

Jaa Bar

Jaa Bar — Located in a small alleyway off of Peel Street, Jaa Bar combines comfort and charm for an exclusive experience. The centerpiece of the ornate enclave is a custom-made wooden bar pieced together from classical furniture pieces. 1 Pak Tsz Lane, Central, 2815-8887.

Ozone — Located 118 floors above the ground, this watering hole boasts a superlative title: the highest bar in Hong Kong. This nightspot is a must-see, especially due to its drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2270. Quinary — Grab molecular cocktails in a chilledout lounge off Hollywood Road. Be impressed by local mixologist Antonio Lai’s creative drinks list. G/F, 56-58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-3223.

LE BOUDOIR — This Francophone hangout is all sultry drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery. The cocktails are stellar, too. B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central, 2530-3870. LILY — Get buzzed in and out of Lily’s fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. Aesthetes will be delighted that so much attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166. Lion Rock — Lion Rock is the place to unwind and relax while having one (or more) of 193 signature cocktails. Enjoy the awesome view and weekly wine and whisky tastings. 3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel,193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Mong Kok, 2622-6167. M BAR — Set against the heights of Hong Kong’s skyline, the Mandarin Oriental’s M Bar makes for a ravishingly chic hangout. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4002. Martini BAR — This stylish hotel bar has nightly entertainment, a range of cocktails beyond just martinis and is one of the few cigar lounges in town. G/F, The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2733-2995.

The Lawn — This outdoor garden is a genuine urban oasis, exuding a serene, intimate vibe and illuminated entirely by a few candles. 6/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. The Parlour — The kitschy-chic bar sits betwixt the equally droll west and east dining rooms, and looks like an exotic dive in 70s London Chinatown. Hullet House, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3988-0101.

KEE CLUB — A good concierge should be able to get you into this exclusive members-only club, where you can sip a cocktail and check out the Picassos, antiques and colonial-style service. 6/F, Yeung Kee Building, 32 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9000. L’etage — With the feel of a true gentlemen’s club, this is a place for refined Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a traditionally made cocktail in one hand and a cigar in another. It’s worth coming back just to watch head bartender Katsuhisa Hirakawa hand-carve spheres of ice for whisky. 22/F, Macau Yat Yuen Centre, 525 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2522-5300.

The Lawn

THE PAWN — The modern British restaurant and bar, a former pawn shop, has an outdoor balcony from which to enjoy a view of Hong Kong’s 100-year-old trams. 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444.

Red Bar

RED BAR — Located on a terrace atop IFC Mall, this funky destination bar has a breathtaking public outdoor area with harbor views. 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882.

The Tonno — This complex features a bar, a clubbing zone, a restaurant, a live music lounge and karaoke rooms, taking “all-around entertainment” to a whole new level. Head here for an epic marathon of dancing, drinking, Elton John hits, dart games and Shanghainese buns. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.

RIEDEL ROOM — The world’s first Riedel Room offers exclusive wines to be enjoyed in Riedel crystal glassware. Lobby, JW Marriott Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2841-3836. Sake Bar Ginn — Sake sommelier Ayuchi Momose is behind this upper-floor bar. In addition to serving 100 types of sake and 30 Japanese tapas, she also imports special sakes by microbreweries. Shop 4C, 4/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2536-4355.

Vibes

Salon de Ning — Decadent Shanghai art deco lounge with live music Tue-Thu. UG/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6705.

VIBES — The Mira hotel’s svelte alfresco drinks venue is home to a stunning secret garden. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5999.

SHORE — A chill outdoor space and one of the most extensive drinks selection in town. Newly renovated. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2915-1638.

VOLAR — Frequented by models and wannabes, Volar can be exclusive, but you can dance the night away to top DJs. B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510.

Staunton’s — Popularly considered the best “people-watching spot” in Hong Kong, Staunton’s has the right equation for a chill evening drink. It also has an eclectic menu. 10-12 Staunton St., Central, 2973-6611.

WOOLOOMOOLOO — This steakhouse outlet boasts a gorgeous rooftop with stunning views of Victoria Harbour and the Happy Valley horse racing track. 31/F, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960. J a n u a r y 2014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 27

ShopS+Services | The Guide

Something to Woaw About Shop till you drop at a new boutique in Central. By William Hodson

Native Union speakers

Ostrich Pillow

Kevin Poon, co-founder of Hong Kong streetwear brand Clot and clothing store Juice, has just launched his latest project to date: a retail boutique called Woaw, located on trendy Gough Street in Sheung Wan. The shop stocks a collection of fashion and home items from all corners of the world. Customers can find everything from Riviera footwear and Native Union gadgets to a wide range of designer eyewear. Woaw also carries grooming products that are all eco-friendly. Essentially, everything in store is a collection of Poonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favorite things. Objects of special affection include an iPhone Polaroid printer from The Impossible Project, a sleep-anywhere Ostrich Pillow, and a collection of Komono watches that are sold exclusively at the shop. There is an open area at the back of the store where customers can sit down and relax with a drink. Try a range of bottled sodas from the States, or a craft beer from Japan. Happy shopping! Woaw, G/F, 11 Gough St., Sheung Wan, 2253-1313.

Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.

28 WH E R E HONG KONG I J a n u a r y 2 0 1 4

ShopS+Services | The Guide

Well Red Ring in the Chinese New Year in festive shades of scarlet

Red is considered a lucky color in China, and Chinese New Year (Jan 31) is a time when Hongkongers ring in the year by wearing brightly red outfits, many of which are bought specially for the occasion. Why not join in the festivities by wearing a cheerful crimson hue?

1: Duffle Coat, $3,990 from Tommy Hilfiger (global.tommy.com) 2: SAR Flag Towels, $351 from Sleep Naked (sleepnaked.hk) 3: Purse, $8,450 from Moschino (www.moschino.com) 4: Skirt, $890 from Himkala Limbu (www.himkalalimbu.com) 5: Dress, $2,150 from Ted Baker (www.tedbaker.com)

Shopping Centers APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. Millennium City 5, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 3148-1200. ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous roof garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234.

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HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8601.

IFC Mall Hysan Place

HYSAN PLACE — This brand-new mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of high-quality dining options. 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222.

IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international high-end brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308.

ShopS+Services | The Guide HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089. ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2890-6823. THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols or upscale supermarket. 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3428-8086. LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mongkok, 3520-2800, www.langhamplace.com.hk. LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 18 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-2166, www.leegardens.com.hk.

TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 16-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket Citysuper, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.

Western Market — An Edwardian-style building with restaurants and shops selling Chinese crafts and fabrics. 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 6029-2675.

Shops, Boutiques and Local Designers

Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant— the Fourth Floor —and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388.

Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men. Shop 123, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2104-7934. Daydream Nation — A locally grown label that incorporates fashion with other art forms like theater, dance, music, film and visual arts. They offer their own collection of clothing and accessories as well as works from local artists and indie bands. Daydream Nation Circus Shop, 2/F, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2817-6313.

Department Stores

Joyce

JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 28101120; Shop 232, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944; Shop 106, Harbour City, 2-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-8128. G.O.D.

G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876. Kapok — Offers meticulously selected international and local brands for menswear, womenswear, bags and accessories, as well as lifestyle products. G/F, 5 St Francis Yard, Wan Chai, 2549-9254.

Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place

SPY Henry Lau — Edgy and bold fashion for men and women. 1/F, 5 Cleveland St., Causeway Bay, 2317-6928.

PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8988. PRINCE’S BUILDING — Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkway to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uberfashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket. 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2500-0555.

Squarestreet — Seriously hipster shoes and accessories. G/F, 15 Square St., Sheung Wan, 2362-1086.

One Peking — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier. 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui.

Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist. Shop 209, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-0238.

Rise Shopping Arcade — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2363-0301.

Walter Ma — Well-established designer offering luxury fashion. 174 Wellington St., Causeway Bay, 2838-7655.

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Lane Crawford

LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with must-have designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388.

Squarestreet

SHANGHAI TANG SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The brand-new flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.

ShopS+Services

SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.

The Swank

THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freestanding boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-0842.

Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. 1/F, Star House, 3 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-4061. YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 143-161 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2739-3888.

Tailors DAVID FASHION — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884. C LA ELITE FASHION — G/F, 1 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-0040. M

L & K Custom Tailor — G/F, Mirador Y Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278. CM Nita Fashion — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha MY Tsui. 2721-9990, www.nitafashions.com. CY

Punjab House — 5/F, Suite C, Golden Crown CMY Court, 66-70 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612, www.punjabhouse.com.hk. K

Raja Fashion — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624, www.raja-fashions.com. REGAL fashion — LG/F, Shop 8 & 9, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-6007. Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423. Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1287. J a n u a r y 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 33

Navigate | The Guide

Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call their Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.

Get Moving

Octopus Cards

Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.

These are “wave-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.

Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.

The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $48, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.

Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.

34 WH E R E HONG KONG I J a n u a r y 2 014

Navigate

Tip Top Tips Founder of Luxe City Guides Grant Thatcher helps you find your way around Hong Kong. By William Hodson Grant Thatcher, the Hong Kongbased founder of Luxe City Guides, originally came up with the idea for his pocket-sized travel booklets while jetting around the world. Thatcher was fed up with going to places he had heard about or found online, only to discover they were closed or below standard when he got there. With the city-specific Luxe guides, Thatcher and his team make sure that all the listings are up to date, and periodically updates are available for readers to download. Below, he gives us some tips on traveling in Hong Kong. Where: What’s your favorite Hong Kong district? Grant Thatcher: Sheung Wan for sure. I walk the nabe everyday at lunchtime as the Luxe office is located there. I can honestly say two or three new shops, coffee houses, restaurants or galleries open each week. There really is nowhere like it in Hong Kong. W: Where would you find yourself on a Friday night in Hong Kong? GT: Vintage negronis at Il Milione (Shop 16-21, G/F, Hutchison House,

10 Harcourt Rd., Central, 2481-1120). It’s the perfect start to any weekend. I’m also pretty partial to the excellent Britapas at The Reserve at Alfie’s by Kee (Shop M18-19, M/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2530-4422)—artisan foods from Britain and a very good wine list. W: If someone on a tight budget had only one day in Hong Kong, where would you suggest they go? GT: The Star Ferry—one of the world's great iconic journeys, and it costs almost nothing. Do it in the evening and take in the cityscape and laser show for maximum wow factor. W: And if money was no object? GT: For a bigger budget, hop a helicopter and get a birdseye view. No matter where you are in the world, there's nothing like flying over a city at night. W: When traveling to a city, what should you do to make the experience complete? GT: Try to see as much of the people who live there and their customs as

Buses

It’s a 23,600-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1997. It’s centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds. Vegetarian food is available. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888.

Hong Kong has two major bus companies: Kowloon Motor Bus — www.kmb.hk, 2745-4466. citybus / New World First BUS — www.nwstbus.com.hk, 2136-8888/ 2873-0818.

Sights & Attractions AVENUE OF STARS — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes’ handprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars, along with a statue of martial artist Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly Symphony of Lights. Music plays over loudspeakers here and nowhere else, although the light display can be seen from around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront. BANK OF CHINA TOWER — I. M. Pei designed this 70-story building and bank headquarters to resemble stalks of bamboo. 1 Garden Rd., Central.

possible. I wholeheartedly support experiential travel, where you get involved with something unique in that destination. A great way to start is to rent an apartment instead of booking a hotel room. There's nothing like having your own front door to make you feel at home in a city. And always drink the water and eat the bread or staple of each city— it’s unique everywhere you go. Luxe City Guides Hong Kong can be found at Dymocks bookstores across the city.

Big Buddha

BIG BUDDHA — One of the world’s largest Buddhas, the Tian Tan Buddha took 12 years to build and sits on a lotus throne atop Lantau Island. The more than 200 steps to the top are open from 10am to 5:30pm daily and definitely recommended for the spectacular mountain views. Special admission tickets are available and include a vegetarian meal. Also check out the nearby Po Lin Monastery. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and then Bus 23 to Ngong Ping. CHI LIN NUNNERY—An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets.

CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE — Finished in time to host the handover ceremony in July 1997, the center’s roof was designed to look like a seabird’s wings in flight. 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, 2582-8888. HONG KONG DISNEYLAND — Take a trip back to the 1900s on Main Street, catch a train to Fantasyland, float down the Rivers of Adventure, catch a show or blast through outer space in Tomorrowland. When you’re done charting your exotic surroundings take a moment to dine, shop or cavort with the various Disney characters who roam the park. It’s easy to get to via MTR, bus or car. See the website for transportation details. Lantau Island, 1-830-830, park. hongkongdisneyland.com. J a n u a r y 2 014 I WHERE HONG KONG 35

Navigate | The Guide

Hong Kong Dolphinwatch — Catch a glimpse of the pink dolphins, an animal so unique to these waters that it was named the official mascot of Hong Kong’s 1997 handover. Tours depart every Wed, Fri and Sun from the Kowloon Hotel in Tsim Tsa Tsui at 9am. The cruise takes up to five hours, and if no dolphins are seen, the company provides a free “go-again guarantee.” $380 for adults, $190 for children under 12 years, with proceeds going to dolphin research. Call 2984-1414 or visit www.hkdolphinwatch.com. HONG KONG ZOOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL GARDENS — Home to 12 endangered species, the zoo successfully breeds rare birds and orangutans. Established in 1871, the park retains all the Victorian accents from that era and is an idyllic spot in the middle of the city. Admission free. Open daily 6am-7pm. Garden Rd., Central. A staircase from Upper Albert Rd. leads to the main entrance.

Sam’s The Man (Just ask his customers)

Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon. Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147

Peak Tram

PEAK TRAM AND VICTORIA PEAK — The world’s steepest funicular railway hauls passengers up Victoria Peak in approximately eight minutes. Once at the top, enjoy panoramic views of the city, or check out the restaurants, shops and various attractions at the Peak Galleria and Peak Tower. The tram runs daily 7am-midnight, tickets $28 one-way, $40 round trip. Bus No. 15C runs between Peak Tram lower terminus and Central, near the Star Ferry. It costs $4.20 for a single journey. Garden Road and Cotton Tree Drive, 2522-0922. SIK SIK YUEN WONG TAI SIN TEMPLE — This active Buddhist temple is large and colorful with beautiful adjoining gardens. Have your fortune told by palm readers in the main arcade. Open 7am-5:30pm. A small donation is expected. Follow signs from Wong Tai Sin MTR stop. 2327-8141.

Man Mo Temple

MAN MO TEMPLE — This temple was built in 1847 to honor the God of Literature, Man Cheong, and the God of War, Mo Tai. A grade-1 historical building, it is one of biggest tourist attractions in Central. 124-126 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan.

Star Ferry

STAR FERRY — Cross Victoria Harbour between Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon Peninsula on the Star Ferry. These open-deck ferries are one of Hong Kong’s most recognizable attractions and a common, cheap—and pleasant—form of transportation. Take the MTR to Central or Tsim Sha Tsui and follow the signs. ST. JOHN’S CATHEDRAL — A beautiful cathedral built in the shape of a cross. Open daily from 7am to 6pm for quiet prayer and meditation. Take the MTR to Central.

Ngong Ping 360

NGONG PING 360 — Home to a theater, teahouse, nature center, cultural themed village and more, Ngong Ping 360 is best known for its 5.7-kilometer cable-car service that offers panoramic views of Lantau Island’s lush valleys, the South China Sea and the world-famous Tian Tan Buddha. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and walk five minutes to the cable-car terminal. OPEN-TOP BUS TOUR — One Big Bus day tour ticket includes 24 hour hop-on-hopoff access to the red tour (Hong Kong Island) and the blue tour (Kowloon), as well as prerecorded commentary in 10 languages and other perks. Unit KP-38, 1/F, Kowloon Star Ferry Pier, Tsim Sha Tsui, 3102-9021. 36 WH E R E HONG KONG I J a n u a r y 2 014

Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery

TEN THOUSAND BUDDHAS MONASTERY — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800 Buddhas stored in three temples, four pavilions and a five-story pagoda. The one that you’re likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk Yuet Kai, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin MTR, Exit B, 2691-1067, www.10kbuddhas.org.

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TAI O — This charming fishing village is a maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the very tip of Lantau Island. It’s a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, the picturesque Tin Hau Temple and a couple of interesting little museums. Take a ferry from Central.

Embassies & Consulates Argentina 2523-3208; Australia 2827-8881; Bangladesh 2827-4278; Belgium 2524-3111; Brazil 2525-7002; Canada 3719-4700; Chile 2827-1826; China (China Travel) 2853-3888; Columbia 2545-8547; Czech Republic 2802-2212; Egypt 2827-0668; Finland 2525-5385; France 3752-9900; Germany 2105-8788; Greece 2774-1682; India 3970-9900; Israel 2821-7500; Italy 2522-0033; Japan 2522-1184; Korea 25294141; Laos 2544-1186; Malaysia 2821-0800; Mexico 2511-3305; Netherlands 25229200; New Zealand 2525-5044; Pakistan 2827-0295; Philippines 2823-8501; Peru 2868-2622; Poland 2840-0779; Russia 2877-7188; Singapore 2527-2212; Spain 2525-3041; Sweden 2521-1212; Switzerland 3509-5000; Taiwan 2530-1187; Thailand 2521-6481; Turkey 2572-1331; United Arab Emirates 2866-1823; United Kingdom 2901-3000; USA 2523-9011; Venezuela 2730-8099; Vietnam 2591-4510.

Financial Matters Generally, business hours are weekdays 9am5pm, with a lunch hour from 1pm-2pm, and Saturdays 9am-1pm. The local currency is the Hong Kong dollar. There is no central mint; instead, notes are issued by three separate private banks and the city’s Monetary Authority. The Hong Kong dollar is pegged to the US dollar at a rate of approximately US$1 to HK$7.79. Denominations include $10, $20, $50, $100, $500 and $1,000 notes. Coins come in denominations of 10, 20 and 50 cents, and one, two, five and 10 dollars. BANKS — Major banks are open weekdays 9am-4:30pm, and Saturdays 9am12:30pm. Banks are closed Sundays and public holidays. Some services, such as foreign exchange-related transactions, are not available at banks one hour before closing. The following details are for the banks’ main offices, call for retail locations: Bank of America, 41/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 2847-5222; Citibank, Citibank Tower, 3 Garden Rd., Central, 2868-8888; HSBC, 1 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2233-3000; Standard Chartered Bank, 4 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2886-8868.

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Walking Tours | The Guide Cross Nathan Road to the Park Lane Shopper’s Boulevard.

Discover TST

Park Lane Shopper’s Boulevard

Tsim Sha Tsui (known locally as TST) is home to a variety of historical buildings, fascinating museums, the Hong Kong Cultural Centre, chic restaurants and modern shopping malls. The scenic waterfront promenade also offers some of the best views of Victoria Harbour and the mesmerizing Hong Kong skyline.

Bustling with customers day and night, this distinctive shopping mall offers a variety of local and international brandname stores. Open 10:30am-11pm daily. Enter Kowloon Park through the entrance next to the mosque. Follow the signs to the Hong Kong Heritage Discovery Center.

Hong Kong Heritage Discovery Center

Clock Tower

Leave Jordan MTR station at exit D. After exiting the station, turn left, walk along Nathan Road and turn left onto Hillwood Road.

Hillwood Road This is a hangout favored by locals, with a fun collection of bars and a selection of restaurants serving Asian cuisine. Walk down the steps at the end of Hillwood Road, turn right and walk along Austin Avenue and Kimberley Road. Stay on the right, and then turn right onto Observatory Road. At Knutsford Terrace, turn left.

Knutsford Terrace/ Knutsford Steps Featuring a wide variety of exotic cuisine and several bars, this hotbed of international culinary offerings will have something for every palate. Walk along Knutsford Terrace. Turn left and then right along Kimberley Road. Walk to the end of the street and turn right.

38 WH E R E HONG KONG I J a n u a r y 2 014

Knutsford Terrace

Former Kowloon British School This architectural gem is the oldest surviving school building constructed for foreign residents of Hong Kong. (The school opened in 1902.) The building is a unique Victorian structure, adapted to the steamy local climate with wide verandahs, high ceilings and a pitched roof. Today, it houses the Antiquities and Monuments Office.

Part of what used to be the British army’s Whitfield Barracks, the building that now houses the Hong Kong Heritage Discovery Center was constructed circa 1910 and includes an exhibition gallery, reference library and activity room that are open to the public. Open 10am6pm Mondays to Saturdays (closed on Thursdays) and 10am-7pm on Sundays and public holidays. Call 2208-4400. Leave Kowloon Park the same way you entered. Walk along Nathan Road towards the waterfront. Enter the MTR East Tsim Sha Tsui station via exit L3, go through the pedestrian tunnel to exit J and follow the directional signs to the Avenue of Stars.

Avenue of Stars Along this waterfront promenade, you can see plaques, handprints and statues honoring celebrities from the silver screen as well as those behind the camera. Also, enjoy the great harbor views. Walk back along the promenade to the Hong Kong Museum of Art, the Hong Kong Space Museum and the Hong Kong Cultural Centre.

St. Andrew’s Church stands next to the former Kowloon British School.

St. Andrew’s Church Imagine early worshippers arriving via the main means of transportation of the day: rickshaws and sedan chairs.

Avenue of Stars

Hong Kong Museum of Art Discover the beauty of Chinese antiquities, fine art and calligraphy. Open 10am-6pm Mon-Wed and Fri, 10am-7pm Sat, Sun and public holidays; closed Thu. Call 2721-0116.

Hong Kong Space Museum Learn all about astronomy and space technology. Open 1pm-9pm, Mon and Wed-Fri; 10am-9pm on Sat, Sun and public holidays. Closed Tue. Call 2721-0226.

Hong Kong Cultural Centre Experience classic performing arts of both western and Asian origins. Near the end of the promenade, you’ll see the Clock Tower.

Clock Tower Part of the original Kowloon-Canton Railway terminus, the Clock Tower was completed—and started ticking— in 1921. Cross Salisbury Road to Star House and check out 1881 Heritage/Hullett House on your right.

HONG KONG

1881 Heritage/ Hullett House This site was occupied by the Hong Kong’s Royal Marine Police as headquarters from the 1880s till 1996. The building’s unique Victorian architecture is a symbol of its rich colonial background. It now houses a shopping mall, a boutique hotel, restaurants and bars. Harbour City is on the other side of Canton Road.

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Harbour City/Canton Road/Peking Road Harbour City is one of the largest shopping and entertainment centers in Hong Kong, with more than 700 shops and restaurants offering local and international fare. Open daily, 10am-10pm. Adjacent to Harbour City, along Canton Road and Peking Road, you’ll find stores from leading brands.

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24 Hours (+852) 9439 4851 J a n u a r y 2 014 I WHERE HONG KONG 39

maps

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January 2014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 41

30 Things we LOve about Hong Kong !5

1 Shopping at Times Square. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay. 2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world's largest building constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888. 3 Slurping oysters for brunch at Café Deco. 1-2/F, The Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-5111. 4 Dining aboard the kitschycool Jumbo Floating Restaurant. Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen, 2553-9111. 5 Spotting endangered white dolphins with Dolphinwatch off Lantau Island. 2984-1414. 6 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 23-24 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. 7 Snaking through the high-rises on the Mid-Levels Escalator—the longest in the world. Cochrane, Shelley and Peel Streets, Central.

8 Saying hi to Bruce Lee at the Avenue of Stars, Tsim Sha Tsui. 9 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach on Lantau Island.

!0 Taking a walk down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defence. 2569-1500. !1 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. Stanley Street, Central. !2 Getting a shave and a trim at the Mandarin Oriental’s barber. 5 Connaught Rd., Central, 2825-4088. !3 Being fitted for a tailor-made suit. Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. !4 Having our palms read at the Temple Street Night Market. Yau Ma Tei. !5 Sipping on signature cocktails while taking in the spectacular view of Hong Kong Island at Aqua Spirit. 30/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288.

42 WH E R E HONG KONG I J a n u a r y 2 014

!6 Cruising Victoria Harbor on the Duk Ling, an authentic Chinese junk. 2573-5282.

@3 Buying witty chinoiserie at the new Shanghai Tang flagship mansion. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.

!7 Being entertained by performances and exhibitions at the artsy Fringe Club. 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central, 2521-7251.

@4 Taking a walk in Hong Kong Park. 19 Cotton Tree Drive, Central.

!8 Taking one of the oldest rides in Hong Kong—a tram from Sheung Wan to Causeway Bay. !9 Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei. @0 Dressing up for high tea at The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-3169. @1 Taking the Peak Tram to visit Hong Kong celebrities at Madame Tussauds. Shop P10, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-6966. @2 Doing some late-night shopping on Sai Yeung Choi Street in Mong Kok.

@5 Snacking on delicious egg tarts at Tai Cheong Bakery. 32 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2554-3475. @6 Seeing our animated favorites come to life at Hong Kong Disneyland. Lantau Island, 1830-830. @7 Stopping for tea at Fook Ming Tong Tea Shop. Shop 3225, The Gateway, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-1077. @8 Spending the afternoon at the mall. Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8900. @9 Marveling at the Symphony of Lights in Victoria Harbour. #0 Checking out the old Kowloon-Canton Railway clock tower. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.

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