WHERE Hong Kong - July 2014 by WHERE Hong Kong

J u ly 2 014

the complete guide to go

速

Hong Kong

The Life

Aquatic

Ferry hopping, sampan riding, and other seafaring activities Catch the world cup live Korean Fried Chicken joints Go on a Kung fu tour

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where Hong Kong 7.2014 ®

the guide

06 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events

14 art + culture Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening

20 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town

26 Drinks Our favorite places to sip a cocktail

38 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot

40 Map Central, Hong Kong Island

Also inside 28 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers

features 8 Water, Water, Everywhere

34 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info 42 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences

Water-based fun in Hong Kong

20 Chicken Run Try some Korean Fried Chicken: Hong Kong’s new obsession

on the cover J u ly 2 014

the complete guide to go

Hong Kong

26 Football Fever Catch the World Cup games at one of these bars

The Life

Aquatic

Ferry hopping, sampan riding, and other seafaring activities CaTCh The worLd Cup Live Korean Fried ChiCKen joinTs Go on a KunG Fu Tour

wheretraveler.com The website from the editors of Where Magazine. Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.

Hong Kong is a city surrounded by water. To take advantage of its unique locale, hop on a ferry or junk boat for a scenic tour. There are also plenty of beaches, seaside villages and even hidden waterfalls for you to explore. See p. 8 for a full itinerary.

J u ly 2 0 14 I WHERE hong k o n g 3

where

maga z ine

On the web: www.wherehongkong.com HK Magazine Media group HK | ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION General MANAGER & Publisher Greg Crandall director of sales Gary Wong Strategy Sales Director Jan Cheng Associate Advertising Director Joe Ng Senior Sales Manager Joyce Wu Senior Advertising Manager Kent Ma Assistant Advertising Manager Arena Choi Advertising Manager Keiko Ko, Rita Ng Advertising Executive Winnie Cheng Advertising Coordinator Sharon Cheung Marketing MANAGER James Gannaban Marketing & Circulation Executive Charmaine Mirandilla IT SYSTEMS Manager Derek Wong

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HONG KONG

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hot dates Hong Kong By Evelyn Lok

July 14-20

July 10-27 Ladies First This month, the Hong Kong Repertory Theatre is putting on two exciting mainstage plays: British playwright Martin Crimp’s “Attempts on Her Life,” which has been translated to over 20 languages across the world, and also “Three Tall Women,” the Pulitzer Award-winning play by American Edward Albee. Lauded for its masterful tension-laden storytelling, “Attempts on Her Life” is 17 fragmented stories about a mysterious character, Anne. Veteran director David Kaplan brings audiences on a journey of life and death by telling the stories of three women at different life stages, aged 26, 52 and 92, in “Three Tall Women.” Both plays will be performed in Cantonese, with Chinese and English surtitles. Attempts on Her Life Jul 10-12, 15-19, 7:45pm; Jul 12-13, 19-20, 2:45pm. Theatre, Hong Kong City Hall, 5 Edinburgh Place, Central,$140-280 from urbtix.hk.

Three Tall Women Jul 12, 14, 16-19, 22, 26, 7:45pm; Jul 13, 19-20, 26-27, 2:45pm. Shouson Theatre, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai. $140-280 from urbtix.hk.

Humor From Down Under The annual Melbourne International Comedy Festival is back for its 14th run. Five of Australia's most talented comedians are descending on Hong Kong for raucous two-hour-long extravaganzas each night. MCIF veteran Harley Breen is MC-ing, with star headliners Ronny Chieng, who has opened for Dave Chappelle and also just won the Director's Choice award at the 2014 MICF; Joel Creasey, who talks about awful celebrity encounters; and exciting newcomers to the scene: banjo-player and impersonator extraordinaire Anne Edmonds, and winner of the 2013 MCIF Newcomer prize, Luke McGregor. Jul 14-19, 8pm; 20, 5pm. Fringe Club, 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central. $250-350 from www.hkticketing.com.

July 28

Look Down UK shoegaze pioneers Slowdive are back after a 20-year break, and are set to perform in Hong Kong as one of their four worldwide headline shows. The five-piece was formed in 1989, and they spearheaded the fuzzy, hazy shoegaze genre. They disbanded in 1995, but the band regrouped to play their first live gig in late May. 8pm. Rotunda 3, KITEC, 1 Trademart Drive, Kowloon Bay, $595 from www.cityline.com; $640 at the door.

6 W H E R E HONG KONG I J uly 2 014

Y Y

hot dates July 11 Onwards

July 11-12

A Night At the Opera

Play Time

Love is Blind

This two-month long program consists of a series of joint performances by Hong Kong and Shenzhen artists. It kicks off on July 22 with "Hong Kong-Shenzhen Night of Symphony v2.0"—a performance by the Shenzhen Symphony Orchestra Chorus and the Hong Kong Children's Choir, followed by a series of Cantonese and Pingju opera performances by the biggest names in the Chinese drama scene, as well as two exhibitions of Shenzhen/Hong Kong ink art and contemporary graphic design.

The annual International Arts Carnival has arrived in Hong Kong, bringing with it an array of stage performances from a truly international program, all suited for kids and adults alike. The month-long festival will kick off with the National Folk Dance Ensemble of Croatia (LADO), who will showcase a colorful song and dance performance complete with their national costumes. Watch out for the acrobatic lumberjack showcase by the Canadian Cirque Alfonse in “Timber!” as well as the gala performance, “The Best of Black Light Theatre.” Through Jul. Various times and

Korean choreographer Megan Ha Youngmi’s “The Room and the Lovers” is a contemporary dance and movement theater very much inspired by Rene Magritte’s seminal 1928 painting, “The Lovers”—where a kissing couple is separated by cloths wrapped around their heads. With themes of yearning and frustrated desire, see how Ha’s dancers express the same feelings through movement.

Photo credit: Museum of Modern Art, NYC

July 18 Onwards

Jul 11-12, 8pm; Jul 12, 3pm. Fringe Club, 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central. $80-160 from www.hkticketing.com.

Through Jul. Various times and locations; check www.hkszfestival.com. $80-300 from www.urbtix.hk.

locations; check www.hkiac.gov.hk.

July 28

July 4-5

July 5

Making History

Up to No Good

Make a Splash

As a child, Stephen Bishop was a young clarinetist and aspiring history teacher, until the fateful day when he saw the Beatles on "The Ed Sullivan Show" and became instantly hooked on the guitar, going on to write top US billboard hits and movie theme songs. His songs have been sung by the likes of Phil Collins, Barbra Streisand, Diana Ross and even Pavarotti.

The Hong Kong Philharmonic teams up with Macallan for a concert of the madcap adventure and fairy mischief that is Shakespeare’s “Midsummer Night’s Dream”. Sung by the ladies of the HK Phil Chorus, the concert will consist of incidental music written by Mendelssohn in 1842.

Over in Macau, the Hard Rock Hotel's Splash pool parties are back. It's one winning formula: swimsuits, sunshine and lots of cocktails. EDM DJ duo Tritonal and LA-based Paris Blohm are on the decks.

8:15pm. Musiczone, KITEC, 1 Trademart Drive, Kowloon Bay. $480-680 from www.hkticketing.com.

8pm. Concert Hall, Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $160-420 from urbtix.hk.

4pm-midnight. Hard Rock Hotel Macau, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau, (+853) 8868-3338. $450 from www.cityofdreamsmacau.com.

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The Life Aquatic Hong Kong is a city built around its harbor. Make sure to take in its waterside culture. By Alex Ling, Alice Wan and Zoe Lai

Water World Make the time to visit one of Hong Kong’s sleepy fishing towns, where life wanders quietly onwards.

Seafood snacks in Tai O

Pick up some sweet egg puffs in Tai O

Aberdeen

Tai O

Aberdeen, a district on the south side of Hong Kong island, was once a popular typhoon shelter teeming with fishermen and their families. Although many of them have since transitioned to life on land, today you’ll still spot dozens of fishermen in their sampan boats around the area. You can experience what it’s like to live on the water by joining a sampan tour hosted by Big Bus Tours (www.bigbustours.com) or by signing up with a sampan owner by the pier. You shouldn’t be paying much more than $60 for a 15-minute tour, so be wary if you’re being quoted higher prices!

The residents of Tai O, a waterside village on Lantau Island, live in houses that stand on wooden stilts above the water. Hop on a 20-minute boat tour around the area and if you are lucky, you might even spot a Chinese White Dolphin swimming in the waters. Tours are offered by Tai O Tak Hung Travel (www.tai-o.com.hk). Remember to buy a bottle of shrimp paste, made by the locals, to bring home as a souvenir.

How to get there: From Central’s Exchange Square Bus Terminal, take bus 70 and get off at Aberdeen Promenade.

How to Get There: Get off at Tung Chung MTR Station (Exit B) on Lantau Island, then take bus 11 to Tai O. Alternatively, take a ferry to Mui Wo from Central Ferry Pier No.6, then take bus 1 to Tai O.

The unmissable stilt houses of Tai O 8 WH E R E HONG KONG I J uly 2 014

Making a Splash Hong Kong’s hidden waterfalls are just a stone’s throw from downtown.

The Victoria Peak Waterfall The Victoria Peak waterfall is a breath of fresh air and the best place to stretch your legs after a few rounds of shopping, eating and sightseeing at the Peak. Look for a breezy green circular path called Harlech Road that takes you from the busy touristcentric buildings to a tranquil world of trees and chirping birds. The waterfall, near the beginning of the trail, is shaded by lush vegetation and frequented by joggers. How to Get There: You can get to the Peak Tram’s lower terminus by foot from Central Station’s J2 exit, making your way up Garden Road. After the 15-minute ride to the top, find the sign for Harlech Road. The waterfall is on your right-hand side. Walking distance: 5 minutes.

Victoria Peak Waterfall

Life’s a Beach

Silver Mine Waterfall Situated at Mui Wo on Lantau Island, far from the hustle and bustle of city life, the Silver Mine Waterfall is a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. The hike towards the fall itself is worth the journey, filled with lush trees and village houses along the way. How to Get There: Take a ferry from Central Pier No. 6 for approximately 55 minutes to Mui Wo, Lantau. Upon arrival, make a right from the pier and stroll towards the nearby village. Then turn left after you hit the beach and keep going inland until you come to a small creek. Turn left at the mouth of the creek, and you will soon reach a narrow rural road. The waterfall awaits you at the end of the uphill path. Walking distance: 25 minutes (1.8 Km).

Silver Mine Waterfall

Hong Kong is full of beautiful, easily accessible beaches just a hop away for the city center.

Big Wave Bay Beach

Repulse Bay Beach

Big Wave Bay in Shek O tends to attract a younger crowd and is relatively free of families with children. The high waves and strong currents make it a popular spot among local windsurfers and its relative remoteness makes it less crowded for those who seek a quieter place to relax on the beach. The beach connects to the famous Dragon’s Back hiking trail and is also home to a prehistoric rock carving that was discovered in the early 1970s.

Located on the southern coast of Hong Kong Island, the fine white sand of Repulse Bay beach is perfect for daytime strolls and aquatic activities. This long crescentshaped beach is one of the most popular in town, attracting large groups of visitors all year round. Shower facilities are available.

How to Get There: Head to Shau Kei Wan MTR Station, Exit A3. Take bus 9 to Big Wave Bay Beach.

Repulse Bay

How to Get There: Take bus 6, 6A, 6X, 66 or 260 (bound for Stanley) from Exchange Square Bus Terminal for about 20 minutes. Alight at Repulse Bay Beach.

Repulse Bay J uly 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 9

Take a Jaspas Junk to a remote beach

Fun in a Junk Take a tour or go for a day trip on Hong Kong’s unique junk boats.

Aqua Luna For a classier environment, get aboard the Aqua Luna, a hand-crafted red-sailed junk managed by the Aqua Restaurant Group. You can sip on cocktails and beverages while enjoying the cool sea breeze during the 45-minute tour. Where to Board: Tsim Sha Tsui Public Pier No. 1 and Central Pier No. 9. Cost: $150-190 per adult, $120-150 per child. For details, go to www.aqualuna.com.hk.

Kick back on the Aqua Luna

Party all day with Jaspas

Star Ferry

Duk Ling

Want to grab the front row seat to “A Symphony of Lights”, the nightly multimedia show at Victoria Harbour? Sign on for a cruise organized by the Star Ferry for an unhindered view of the laser spectacle.

Join a harbor cruise hosted by the Duk Ling, a historic red-sailed junk restored in the 1980s and now managed by the Hong Kong Tourism Board. The one-hour scenic tour takes a semi-circular route between Central and Kowloon, offering passengers a thorough view of the city’s spectacular shoreline.

Where to Board: Central Star Ferry Pier, Wan Chai Star Ferry Pier, and Tsim Sha Tsui’s Star Ferry Pier. Cost: $85-180 per adult, $77-162 per child/senior. For more information, visit www.starferry.com.hk or call 2118-6201.

Where to Board: Central Pier No.9. Cost: $100 per person. Make a reservation at 2807-6543.

Jaspas Junks If you’re looking to party it up, Jaspas Junks is the way to go. The company rents out party junks with free-flow drinks and food, chef and servers all ready to go. The junks can head to Lamma Island or beaches in Sai Kung, and are available for day and night trips. Where to Board: Causeway Bay Shelter. Cost: $650 per adult, $150-$250. For details, go to www.casteloconcepts.com.

10 WH E R E HONG KONG I J uly 2 014

Lamma

All aboard for Jumbo

Jumbo delicacies

A Meal to Remember Get close to your seafood with a meal eaten on the water.

Jumbo Kingdom Jumbo Kingdom is a floating restaurant in the shape of a grand Chinese palace, and a very popular tourist attraction. Enjoy traditional Cantonese seafood dishes like sauteed fresh crab with garlic and chili here, or chow down on some dim sum at Dragon Court, on the first deck of the restaurant. Try the steamed rice roll filled with assorted mushrooms and cheese and the custard egg tart with bird’s nest and pineapple. How to Get There: From Central’s Exchange Square Bus Terminal, take Bus 70 and get off at Aberdeen Promenade. Walk along the coastal line and you will reach the ferry pier for the free shuttle to Jumbo. For details visit www.jumbo.com.hk or call 2553-9111.

Dim sum at Jumbo

Shun Kee Typhoon Shelter Enjoy a delicious seafood meal on a sampan boat anchored right along the pier at the Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter. At Shun Kee, about half a dozen sampans are tied together, with each sampan hosting one table of guests. Deft servers hop from boat to boat throughout the night, serving dish after dish of crabs, clams and seafood cooked Hong Kong-style. How to Get There: Get a taxi to drop you off at the Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter.

Ferry Tales Hop on a ferry to one of the city’s outlying islands to experience a totally different pace of life.

Cheung Chau

Enjoy a meal at the Jumbo Kingdom

temples, take a stroll on a back street, and try some local snacks and seafood while you’re there. How to Get There: Hop on an ordinary or express ferry heading towards Cheung Chau at Central Pier No. 5. It takes 35 (ordinary) to 60 (express) minutes. Cost: $13.20-28.50 per person.

Lamma Island This laid-back island is the perfect getaway for a Sunday afternoon. Wander around the main streets, hike over to Sok Kwu Wan (a fairly gentle 80-minute walk) or spend a lazy afternoon at the beach. Also stop by one of the seafood restaurants for a local alfresco meal. How to Get There: Take the ferry from Central Pier No. 4 for 30-40 minutes. Cost: $23.70-29.80 per person.

This island is one of the few that have successfully preserved Hong Kong’s traditional village lifestyle. Visit the J uly 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 11

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where

the guide Beach Retreat Dining and shopping complex The Repulse Bay has prepared a series of promotions at its two restaurants, The Verandah and Spices, throughout the summer. Enjoy all-you-can-eat soufflĂŠs and a pasta and wine pairing dinner at The Verandah, or chill out to live lounge music while sipping on a cocktail at Spices. Take a walk along Repulse Bay beach across the road after your meal for the full beachside experience. Throughout July. The Repulse Bay, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., Repulse Bay, 2292-2822.

Art+culture | The Guide

In the Spotlight Two cool new exhibitions. By Evelyn Lok

Time For Change

Xu Bing

World-renowned Chinese contemporary artist Xu Bing brings his latest work to the Asia Society in an exhibition called “Metamorphosis.” The exhibit is curated by HKU Associate Professor Yeewan Koon, who explains that Xu's works depict the idea of transformation: from the familiar to the unfamiliar, or the other way round. Some highlights include older work that brought Xu to international acclaim, such as his installations which take live silkworms, leaves and books as their media. Free admission on the last Thursday of the Month. Through Aug 31. Asia Society Gallery, 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511. $15-30 at the door.

Parisian Flair In“Paris, Chinese Painting: Legacy of the 20th Century Masters," more than 100 modern Chinese paintings from Musée Cernuschi, a museum of Asian Art in Paris, will be brought to Hong Kong’s Art Museum as a final exhibition before it closes for renovation until 2017. You’ll see work by the pioneers who bridged the gap between eastern and western art, including works by renowned abstractionists Zao Wu-ki and Chu Teh-chun, and colorful portraits by Lin Fengmian and Pan Yuliang.

Pan Yuliang

Through Sep 21. Hong Kong Museum of Art, 4/F, Chinese Fine Art Gallery, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0116.

Antiques ALTFIELD GALLERY — Altfield Gallery deals in Southeast Asian sculpture and decorative arts, antique maps and topographical prints relating to Asia, as well as Chinese and Tibetan carpets. Altfield also produces a range of reproduction furniture and accessories in the Chinoiserie style. Shipping available. Shop 248-9, 2/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-6370, www.altfield.com.hk. ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUES — The three-story shop houses large collections of Qing dynasty porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic stone and bronze sculptures and buddhas, and terracotta sculptures from China and Southeast Asia are found in the viewing galleries, plus there are over 200 paintings in the extensive ancestral scroll collection. G/F, 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848.

DRAGON CULTURE — Specializes in dinosaur egg fossils, Han Dynasty terracotta, Tang sculptures and Ming porcelain figures. 231 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-8098, www.dragonculture.com.hk. JOYCE GALLERY — Specializing in ancient sculptures and archaic bronzes from across China, Joyce displays a collection of antiquities dating to the Shang dynasty, including ancient bronzes, stone carvings, gold and silver ware, jade, pottery and Buddhist works. It guarantees its descriptions of the period and history of its items and offers a full refund if the purchased item does not match the description. Shop 1, 123 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-1869, www.joycegallery.com.

Lam & Co Antiquities

LAM & CO ANTIQUITIES — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silver ware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offers repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services. 2/F, 151 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877.

You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.

14 W H E R E HONG KONG I J uly 2 014

Art+culture | The Guide OI LING ANTIQUES — Oi Ling's Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items dating as far back as the Neolithic era. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2815-9422, www.oilingantiques.com. WATTIS FINE ART — Specializes in antique maps of Asia, and historical photographs and prints of China, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia. 2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302, www.wattis.com.hk.

Galleries 10 CHANCERY LANE GALLERY — Focusing on established and emerging international artists, 10 Chancery Lane consists of two large gallery spaces. It holds exhibitions of sculptures, paintings, photographs, installations and videos, as well as performances by renowned artists. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, SoHo, 2810-0065, www.10chancerylanegallery.com. AGNèS B. LIBRAIRIE GALERIE — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnès b. has a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world. G/F, 118 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2869-5505, www.agnesb.com. ALISAN FINE ARTS — This well-established gallery has organized more than 100 exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world. Run by respected art-world figure Alice King, who has worked with the Guggenheim Museum, it also mounts exhibitions for overseas venues. Room 2305, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091, www.alisan.com.hk. ARCH ANGEL ART GALLERY — Arch angel Art Gallery features a collection of contemporary Vietnamese and Southeast Asian paintings acquired directly from the artists. Some of the paintings are from founder Koos Groot's private collection. 30 Peel St., Central, 2851-6882. AP Contemporary— AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2148, www.apcontemporary.com. ART BEATUS — Established in the early 1990s, Art Beatus features mainly original paintings and art by contemporary Chinese artists. Some of its collection has a retro slant, and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoon as vehicles for expression. Has branches in Vancouver and on Queen’s Road Central. G/F, 50 Peel St., Central, 2522-1138, www.artbeatus.com. ASIA FINE ART — Dedicated to promoting young Asian artists at affordable prices, this gallery has regular exhibitions of work from China, Vietnam and Indonesia and Myanmar for sale on site and online. 14 Sik On St., Wan Chai (entrance at 99 Queen’s Rd. East), 2522-0405, www.asia-fineart.com. 16 W H E R E HONG KONG I J uly 2 014

Asia Society Hong Kong

ASIA SOCIETY HONG KONG — Asia Society Hong Kong's big, brand-spankin’-new headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences—97 percent of which are open to the public—the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. Closed Mon. G/F, 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511, www.asiasociety.org/ hong-kong.

ESPACE LOUIS VUITTON — LV has been invading gallery spaces for the past half decade, stirring unrest in the hearts of hard-line art critics but appreciation in the eyes of those beholders who’re able to look past reservations about brand-name commercialism. Espace Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton Mansion, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 8100-1182. GAGOSIAN GALLERY — With 14 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. They opened their doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an all-new exhibition by Damien Hirst—Gagosian only exhibits the crème-de-la-crème of the art world. Closed Mon. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555, www.gagosian.com.

BEN BROWN FINE ARTS — After 10 years at Sotheby’s and two more at a private gallery, Ben Brown and his wife sought to create a space that housed pieces reflective of their tastes—primarily on European modern and contemporary artworks. 301 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2522-9600, www.benbrownfinearts.com. THE CAT STREET GALLERY — Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the world. 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006, www.thecatstreetgallery.com. CONNOISSEUR ART GALLERY — Specializing in contemporary Chinese fine art since 1989, Connoisseur features such acclaimed artists as Paris-based Jia Juan-li, renowned Guangzhou artist Zhang Da-zhong and still life artist Liu Ying-zhao. Shop G3, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2868-5358, www.connoisseur-art.com. CONTEMPORARY BY ANGELA LI — Perhaps best known for introducing Chinese artists Chen Jiagang and Liao Yibai to the art world, CBAL boasts a lovely space and a carefully curated exhibition program. G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3571-8200, www.cbal.com.hk.

De Sarthe Gallery

DE SARTHE GALLERY — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the U.S. and Europe, de Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, Club Lusitano, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896, desarthe.com.

Galerie Du Monde

GALERIE DU MONDE — Galerie du Monde hosts exhibitions by Chinese artists including Li Shuang, Le Longyao, Yu Xiaohui, Hon Chifun and Pan Xun. Its conservation studio provides a complete restoration service for works of art on paper and canvas. Shop 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Center, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529, www.galeriedumonde.com. GROTTO FINE ART — Curated by Henry Au-yeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery represents local artists, with an interest in new and avant-garde art forms. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixedmedia and installation pieces. 2/F, 31C-D Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270, www.grottofineart.com. HANART TZ GALLERY — A specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone. 401 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019, www.hanart.com. Lehmann Maupin Gallery — With the original branch in New York and with its reputation of supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery opened its doors here on March 14. Architect Rem Koolhas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Room407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central. 2530-0025, www.lehmanmaupin.com.

Address: Ground Floor, 1G Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong. (Opposite the Holiday Inn Golden Mile Hotel’s Mody Road entrance) Telephone: 2368-0040, 2723-0056 Email: laelite@netvigator.com 九龍尖沙咀麼地道1G地下 (金域假日酒店麼地道入口對面)

Art+culture | The Guide SHIN HWA GALLERY — Focusing on Asian contemporary art, Shin Hwa features both upcoming and established artists. It is particularly committed to innovative Korean artists. Room 4A, Yue On Commercial Building, 385 Lockhart Rd., Wan Chai, 2803-7960, www.shinhwagallery.com.

Opera Gallery

OPERA GALLERY — Opera Gallery features works by world-famous international artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Gerard Rancinan and Lita Cabellut, among others. W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-1208, www.operagallery.com. Puerta Roja — Puerta Roja was established to promote Latin American art and artists to the Hong Kong audience. Drawings, etchings, glasswork and sculptures are all featured here. Shop A, G/F, Wai Yue Building, 15-17 New St., Sheung Wan, 2803-0332. PICTURE THIS — The city’s largest affordable art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children’s rooms, and sporting prints. Suite 1308, 13/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820, www.picturethiscollection.com.

Hong Kong Maritime Museum

White Cube

WHITE CUBE — One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first non-UK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials—for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. Closed Sun-Mon. G-1/F, 50 Connaught Rd. Central, 2592-2000, www.whitecube.com. ZEE STONE GALLERY — Zee Stone, established in 1991, exhibits a wide range of contemporary artists from mainland China, using both ink and color on paper and oil on canvas. The gallery’s exhibitions reflect the rich diversity of contemporary Chinese art, including abstract landscapes, realistic portraits, paintings on rice paper by traditionally trained Chinese masters and new work by a younger generation in acrylic and mixed media. G/F, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2810-5895, www.zeestone.com.

HONG KONG MARITIME MUSEUM — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong's growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier No. 8, 3713-2500, www.hkmaritimemuseum.org. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF ART — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0116, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF HISTORY — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. Closed Tue. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042, hk.history.museum.

Museums

Plum Blossoms Gallery

PLUM BLOSSOMS GALLERY — Recognized for its exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection of museum-quality ancient textiles, Plum Blossoms is an established platform for the promotion of both ancient and modern arts. 14/F, Cheung Tak Building, 30 Heung Yip Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2521-2189, www.plumblossoms.com. Red Square Gallery — Red Square Gallery is a window into Contemporary Russian Art. Expanding into four branches, the gallery is dedicated to bringing creative and dynamic artwork to Hong Kong. Shop 2, G/F, 1A Wong Nai Chung Rd., Happy Valley. 2838-0040, www.redsquare-gallery.com. Main branch in Stanley.

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FLAGSTAFF HOUSE MUSEUM OF TEAWARE — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-inchief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Closed Tue. 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Hong Kong Park, Central, 2869-0690, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG FILM ARCHIVE — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Tuesdays. 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139. HONG KONG HERITAGE MUSEUM — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. It features permanent exhibitions on the New Territories, Cantonese opera and a Children’s Discovery Gallery. Closed Tues. 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188, www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk

Hong Kong Museum Of Medical Sciences

HONG KONG MUSEUM OF MEDICAL SCIENCES — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both Western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Closed Mon. 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels, 2549-5123, www.hkmms.org.hk. LAW UK FOLK MUSEUM — Law Uk, which means “Law’s House” after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. Free admission. Closed Thu. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006, www.hk.history.museum. LEI CHENG UK HAN TOMB MUSEUM — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, this is one of the city’s most fascinating monuments. Closed Thu. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863, hk.history.museum.

Tel: 2730 1251

dining | The Guide

Chicken Run

Evelyn Lok rounds up the city’s best Korean Fried Chicken joints.

Korean-style fried chicken is all the craze in Hong Kong, thanks in part to the popularity of Korean TV dramas and pop stars in this part of the world. There are two popular types of KFC (Korean Fried Chicken): yangnyeom tongdak—the spicy glazed chicken, and dakgangjeong—chicken with a sweet soy glaze, perfect for the chiliintolerant. Head to a Korean “hof”—named after the German hofbräuhaus, “court brewery”—to get your fill.

Your Body is a Fairyland For hassle-free hof check out Fairyland, a relatively new establishment that has all of the KFC essentials without the long lines—for now, at least. Fairyland offers fried chicken in a bunch of ways: the traditional glazed variations, the no-frills fried original and—unique to Fairyland— grilled fried chicken ($210), which is a plate of small, juicy pieces of chicken marinated in a flavorful sauce. Grilled fried chicken is served with garlic and jalapeño, while other chicken dishes are served with homemade potato chips. We tried their combo plate of spicy and original fried chicken—and when they say spicy, they’re really not messing about. Adventurous foodies, go forth. 28 Austin Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2556-0906. Open daily 3pm-2am.

Chum Chum Nom

Sanche

Poultry to Queue For

KFC On the Go

Lee Ga could be the hof that started the KFC craze in Hong Kong, and most nights it’s got lines reaching far down Austin Avenue. And nope, no reservations allowed. Perhaps the popularity is because it’s a dimly lit, barebones diner that brings the hipsters in droves; or maybe it’s the huge portions. Each order gets you an entire mountain of fried chicken, from breast to drumstick, in assorted flavors. Newly opened down the road is a takeaway branch, which serves sets such as popcorn chicken cups with coke ($28), and full platters of yangnyeom tongdak or dakgangjeong ($138), chicken with spring onion ($158) and their original chicken ($128).

Open since 2013, the small, family-owned Emperor Chicken is tucked away in the food court of Sham Shui Po’s Dragon Centre. It seems an unlikely detour for a KFC pilgrimage, but it’s worth the visit: Emperor is one of the few establishments offering boneless KFC for on-the-go snacking. There are three different flavors: “Korean Spicy,” that’s packed with heat, a milder “Sweet and Spicy,” and the juicy, chili-free Sweet Soy. The chicken also comes in three sizes ($2560). Make sure to go early, as the resto only fries up a limited number of batches each day to keep the chicken as fresh as possible.

Chum Chum Mi is housed behind a Japanese bar/shisha den in FHP Mall. If you’re the type who can’t stand eating at a grubby fast food restaurant, this is a great alternative for your KFC fix. Chum Chum Mi serves up a solid offering of juicy and tender chicken. More of a traditional Korean diner, It mainly offers barbecue dishes and signature K-cuisine—think stews, pancakes, the works. The “ban ban chicken” ($162), a combo plate of spicy and original KFC, and the yangnyeom chicken ($178) may cost a little more than average—but you’re also paying for friendly staff and a nice, warm ambience.

G/F, Kam Kok Mansion, 84 Kimberley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2375-8080. Open daily 2pm-6am.

Shop 17-20 & 31-34, G/F, FHP Shopping Centre, 37-41 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2363-1100. Open daily noon-midnight.

Shop B, UG/F, Pacific Building, 65-67B Kimberley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2722-7274. Open daily 5pm-3:30am.

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Fairyland

K-Pop Pub Grub Low lighting, K-pop blasting through the speakers, big beers and big plates of food. That’s the Red Chicken’s modus operandi. Alongside spicy stews and hot seafood plates, you can also dig into the resto’s original KFC. Try one of the interesting fried chicken variations, such as KFC covered in carbonara sauce, or glazed with honey and lemon. And to wash it all down? Choose from the long list of Soju cocktails: they come in nine different fruity flavors including peach, pomegranate, cherry and pineapple.

8/F, Good Court, Dragon Centre, 37 Yen Chow St., Sham Shui Po, 6689-6533. Open Tue-Sun 10am-10pm.

Central Chicken Check out Sanche, which offers modern Korean fare in a comfortable and stylish atmosphere in Central. The chicken gangjeong nuggets—two-bite sized, boneless pieces of juiciness—are $128 per plate, and an excellent accompanying garlicky gochujang (red pepper) sauce gives the chicken a mildly hot and sweet flavor. Portions may seem a tad whittled down compared to those in Tsim Sha Tsui hofs though: so you may want to order other dishes with your chicken. Shop C, 32 Gage St., Central, 2628-3248. Open Mon-Sat noon-3pm; 6-11pm.

dining

Brunch Crunch All you can eat dim sum. By Cynthia Li

Celebrating its 10th anniversary, Hutong is serving a Chinese-style “Feng Wei” free-flow brunch throughout the summer months. A wide range of dim sum and Northern Chinese appetizers are available in a buffet spread, followed by a selection of main dishes. Guests will get to choose from Hutong’s new and signature dishes, including lamb skewers grilled with Northern Chinese herbs and cumin, and a Beijing-style Boston lobster dry-braised in dark soy & chili mushroom. Guests will enjoy unlimited Veuve Clicquot Brut Yellow Label champagne and a refreshing collection of tea

cocktails developed especially for the brunch. Take your pick of the Golden Orchid, the Lovely Osmanthus or the Mojito Tea. There will also be live performances during the meal. Don’t miss the “Face Changing” masks from Sichuan, or the noodle-pulling sessions. The Feng Wei Brunch is served on Sundays from noon to 3:30 p.m. at $598 per head plus 10% service charge. Throughout July. Hutong, 28/F, One Peking Road, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3428-8342.

Admiralty

Causeway Bay

Ammo — Western. $$$ Tapas and pastas can be had at this posh Asia Society eatery housed in a former British army magazine compound. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2537-9888.

Hooray — Italian. $$ Al fresco drinks and dining in a casual setting complete with a magnificent harbor view. Shop P502, 5/F, World Trade Center, 280 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2895-0885.

DAN RYAN’S — American. $$$ Dan Ryan’s prides itself on Chicago-style chow. Shop 112, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2845-4600. METROPOL — Dim sum. $ Beef balls, steamed shrimp dumplings, pork-and-shrimp dumplings, stuffed rice rolls and other Hong Kong specialties are wheeled around in traditional trolleys for an authentic dim sum experience. 4/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty, 2865-1988. NICHOLINI’S — Italian. $$$$ This restaurant gets kudos from honest-to-goodness Italians, and that’s good enough for us. 8/F, Conrad International Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2521-3838. PETRUS — French. $$$$ This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The décor is a bit ostentatious, but the opulence suits the magnificent view. 56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2820-8590.

IPPUDO — Ramen. $ Japan’s famous chain serves ramen in bowls so enormous they should be called cauldrons, with a meaty, savory broth, tender pork pieces, springy noodles and tangy spring onions topped with fungus and bean sprouts. 2/F, 8 Russell St., 2892-2387. MANGO TREE — Thai. $$-$$$ Somehow, in the middle of bustling Causeway Bay, in a high-rise chock-full of other restaurants and bars, Mango Tree manages to be an oasis of dim lighting, carefully placed flowers and good Thai food. 5/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-0828. Sorabol — Korean. $$ The smell wafting from the open barbecues in the middle of each table will get your appetite going— which is a good thing, since you’ll want to try everything. 18/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival St., 2881-6823.

Tott’s — Modern Asian/Western. $$$-$$$$ Sophisticated décor, harbor-view seats, and perfectly crafted entrees are the hallmark here. The attentive service also deserves special mention. 34/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., 2837-6786.

Central & Lan Kwai Fong AMBER — Modern French. $$$$ Modern, inventive French cuisine meets attentiongrabbing decor. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066. Brickhouse — Mexican. $$. Imagine street-side Mexican combined with hipster-chic décor and upbeat music. Phone reservations not allowed and queues form quickly at peak hours so early arrival recommended. G/F, 20A D’Aguilar St., 2810-0560. Boqueria — Spanish. $$$ Feast on tasty tapas and bomba rice paellas at this chain from New York. 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2321-8681. CAPRICE — French. $$$$ Three Michelin Stars. Splurge on haute cuisine at this French restaurant helmed by chef Fabrice Vulin. The gorgeous interior includes floor-to-ceiling windows. 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8860. J uly 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 21

dining | The Guide The Peak THE PEAK LOOKOUT — International. $$$ Offering an alfresco terrace with a view, this restaurant features an open, bright and airy environment—more like a mountain lodge than a country club—and excellent fare. 121 Peak Rd., 2849-1000. Lung King Heen

Duddell’s

CHINA Tang — Chinese. $$$$. Sir David Tang’s latest Chinese fine-dine offers top delicacies from Beijing, Sichuan and Guangdong in a luxurious setting.

LUNG KING HEEN — Cantonese. $$$-$$$$ Three Michelin Stars. The name means “view of the dragon” and the floor-to-ceiling windows make the case. Stylish décor, flawless service and traditional as well as innovative dishes only add to the appeal. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8880.

Duddell’s — Cantonese. $$$. Serves Chinese fusion by former T’ang Court chef Siu Hin-chi. The art pieces on display are another highlight. Levels 3 & 4, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., 2525-9191. Fatty Crab — Southeast Asian. $$$. A branch of the popular Fatty Crab Restaurant in New York. Expect a delectable mix of South-East Asian flavors. 11-13 Old Bailey St., 2521-2033. INAGIKU — Japanese. $$$ The Hong Kong branch of one of Japan’s oldest and bestknown restaurants, it lives up to the buzz: authentic, delicious and quiveringly fresh. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 2805-0600. ISOLA BAR & GRILL — Italian. $$$$ The glam factor is off the scale, with stunning harbor views and high ceilings, not to mention handmade pastas, pizzas, risottos and more. Shop 3071-75, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., 2383-8765.

Repulse Bay SPICES — Pan-Asian. $$$ Below a glassy high-rise, this restaurant is devoted to showcasing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East.” It also offers a fantastic view of the South China Sea and the sandy shores below. G/F, The Arcade, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2821. THE VERANDAH — Continental/International. $$$ Book brunch in time to get a seat at this popular spot. On other days, the a la carte menu never disappoints. Closed Mon. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2822.

SoHo Mayta

Mayta — Peruvian. $$$ Indulge in colorful and multi-textured dishes like seafood ceviche at one of LKF’s popular restos. 3/F, Grand Progress Building, 15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, 2790-0928. pierre — French. $$$$ Masterminded by threeMichelin-star chef Pierre Gagnaire, this is a bastion of fine French dining. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4001.

JASHAN — Indian. $$ Immediately impressive, with dim lighting, vermilion walls and colonial furnishings, Jashan offers an extensive menu, delicious food and hotel-level service. 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., 3105-5300. POSTO PUBBLICO — American Italian. $$$ Hip Greenwich Village types come to get their fill of such dishes as veal meatballs and sandwiches of homemade mozzarella, eggplant and lashings of balsamic vinegar. 28 Elgin St., 2577-7160.

Yardbird

Sevva

L’Atelier De Joel Robuchon

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON — French. $$$$ The Frenchman named “Chef of the Century” by Gault Millau designs authentic dishes with exquisite finesse and precision, which are then turned out by highly trained chefs in the open kitchen. Shop 315 & 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2166-9000. LIN HEUNG Lau— Cantonese. $$ The setup has changed little in more than 50 years and it still remains a popular hangout for those craving a bit of old Hong Kong nostalgia and really, really good food. Most people come here for daytime dim sum, but dinner’s great too. 160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556.

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SEVVA — Contemporary. $$$$ The brainchild of local socialite Bonnie Gokson, this 22,000-square-foot penthouse restaurant comes with a buzzing wraparound terrace. The elegant eatery serves dishes drawn from Cantonese, Shanghainese, Indian and British culinary concepts. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., 2537-1388.

YARDBIRD — Yakitori. $$$ This is a no-frills yet achingly modern two-story yakitori joint in a trendy corner of the district. The skewers are mostly chicken-based, and taken from every part of the chicken’s body from the heart to the skin. Don’t forget to sample the house sake. 33-35 Bridges St., 2547-9273.

Tsim Sha Tsui

YELLOW DOOR KITCHEN — Sichuan. $$ Hong Kong’s first private kitchen, this favorite has been serving up fiery Sichuan cuisine since the early 1990s. 6/F, Cheung Hing Commercial Building, 37 Cochrane St., 2858-6555. ZUMA — Japanese. $$$$ This is one goodlooking restaurant, split over two floors and linked by a sumptuous staircase. It’s the local branch of London’s famed eatery, offering a sophisticated twist on the traditional izakaya. 5-6/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3657-6388.

Angelini

ANGELINI — Italian. $$$-$$$$ With Italian native Marco Medaglia at the helm, Angelini serves up unpretentious food, with an emphasis on ingredients air-freighted from Italy three times a week. Also has a great harbor view. Mezzanine, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., 2733-8750.

dining

FELIX — Fusion. $$$$ Still one of the swankiest restaurants in town, with Philippe Starck décor, modern food and famous bathrooms. It’s glam, contemporary and kid-free. 28/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, 2696-6778. FOOK LAM MOON — Cantonese. $$$$ Devotees swear this place serves the best Cantonese cuisine in the world. It’s been the place to go for southern Chinese delicacies for more than five decades. 55 Kimberley Rd., 2366-0286. HUTONG — Northern Chinese. $$$$ Dark wood furnishings and a fabulous harbor view make for a modern-day Chinese dining hall. The food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., 3428-8342. MORTON’S OF CHICAGO — Steak. $$$$ With huge slabs of prime, aged beef accompanied by what looks like the winning entries in a hard-fought vegetable show, Morton’s is one of the best steak restaurants in Hong Kong. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., 2732-2343.

Nobu

NOBU — Japanese. $$$$ Mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution, this famous restaurant deserves the hype. Sushi is a must, as is the amazing black cod. 2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323. Ruth’s Chris — Steak. $$$$ American steakhouse, with USDA Prime cuts served alongisde rich sides like spinach au gratin and tempura onion rings. Shop 108-110, 1/F, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2366-6000.

Spoon

SPOON — French. $$$$ Chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows, a fabulous harbor view and an innovative modern menu. Lobby, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323. T’ANG COURT — Cantonese. $$$$ This little gem serves some of the city’s finest Cantonese cuisine. 1/F, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., 2132-7898. J uly 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 23

dining

Whisk — Modern European. $$$ Whisk is known for its contemporary European dishes and extensive wine list that is relatively more affordable than other fine diners. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., 2368-1111. YE SHANGHAI — Shanghainese. $$$ With upscale cuisine served in shareable portions, this is the place for Shanghainese dishes like camphor-smoked duck with pancakes. Also known for its interior full of fabulous chinoiserie. 6/F, The Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, 3 Canton Rd., 2376-3322.

Wan Chai

Bo Innovation

BO INNOVATION — Asian. $$$-$$$$ Experimental cuisine pairing local ingredients with delicacies imported from across the world. Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., 2850-8371.

Catalunya

NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT! Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418

www.outback.com.hk

Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823

Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan

Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai

Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay

Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728

24 WH E R E HONG KONG I J uly 2 014

Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918

Catalunya — Spanish. $$$$ This 7,500 square feet of restaurant and bar space offers Catalan-style dishes such as roasted suckling pig and lobster rice. G/F, Guardian House, 32 Oi Kwan Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-7900. MADAM SIXTY EIGHT — European. $$$ At this posh eclectic eatery, an open kitchen faces the diners, with chefs readying exquisitely prepared dishes scurrying around. Shop 8, 1/F, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-2558. THE PAWN — British. $$$ Serving fabulous food in a faithful restoration of an 1888 landmark building, The Pawn houses a bar and a restaurant with a roof and a breezy balcony overlooking Johnston Road. The menu has modern British fare with a luxurious twist. 2/F, 62 Johnston Rd., 2866-3444. WOOLOOMOOLOO — Australian/New Zealand. $$$ This steakhouse is several places at once: a laid-back wine bar and a casual drinks terrace on the rooftop, and a fine-dining steakhouse below. 31/F-Rooftop, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960.

Hong Kong

apr il 2013

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Drinks | The Guide

Football Fever Catch the FIFA World Cup 2014 games at a bar near you. By Adele Wong

Grand Central Bar and Grill You might have to call it soccer instead of football at the allAmerican Grand Central Bar & Grill, but that’s a small price to pay to be able to enjoy the games live in this spacious two-story venue. Pile on the burgers and fries, chug down a Brooklyn lager, and get your cheer on for team USA. Shop R001, 3/F & Roof, Civic Square, Elements, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2736-4888.

Champs Bar & Restaurant With 12 screens throughout the venue, Champs Bar might just be your best bet for an uninterrupted viewing experience of all 64 matches live. Beer on tap and deep-fried things will be available as usual—but Champs will create specially themed

Bars & Clubs

Azure — Stunning view, minimalist blue décor and great cocktails. 29/F, LKF Hotel, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 3518-9330. Beijing Club — This impressive megaclub recently celebrated its sixth anniversary and is the biggest in town. Expect wet-look vinyl walls, gold-plated bathrooms and a youthful crowd. 2-3/F & 5/F, Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9983.

Angel’s Share

121BC — This import from Sydney, Australia offers biodynamic wines from Italian producers. 42-44 Peel St., Central, 2395-0200. ANGEL’S SHARE — This unique drinking loft is specifically designed for whisky lovers. Sourced from Scotland to Japan, there’s enough aged golden liquid here to suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-8388. AQUA spirit — For cocktails with a killer vista, you can do no better than this swanky high-rise venue with an eagle’s eye view of the harbor. 30/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288.

Blckbrd — This chilled-out spot has an official “no loud music” policy, making it the perfect place for a few low-key drinks. Located on the sixth floor, the outdoor terrace is a serene place to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2545-8555. BLUE BAR — The upscale Blue Bar is a big hit with the cocktail set. Yes, the martinis are worth getting dressed up for. Lobby, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8888. Café Gray Deluxe — Beside the seductively stretched bar are cozy booths for intimate lounging, and its 49th-floor perch guarantees breathtaking harbor views. Cocktail lovers should try the Hong Kong

cocktails and country-specific national dishes for the occasion. UG/F, The Charterhouse, 209-219 Wanchai Rd., Wan Chai, 2892-3360.

McSorley’s Longtime SoHo staple McSorley’s will be broadcasting matches live. With its convenient location, it’s a prime game-watching venue, as well as a strategic stop between bar crawls. 55 Elgin St., Central, 2522-2646.

Room One Class it up by watching live games on large LCD screens at The Mira’s posh Room One. At $288 per head, you’ll be entitled to free-flow Carlsberg for two solid hours—that’s more than 90 minutes of match time. There’s also a buy-one-get-one-free deal on cocktails while the game’s on. Lobby, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5888, tiny.cc/fifaparty.

Highball. 49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. Central Wine Club — This exclusive spot on Wyndham Street was designed with oenophiles in mind. Luxe, modern Baroque surrounds keep pace with the slow jazz and contemporary tunes. 3/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2147-3448. CLUB @28 — This stylish bar has killer views, deadly cocktails and its very own outdoor oasis called The Pavilion. It’s members only, but you can join on arrival and it’s free. 28/F, Crowne Plaza Hotel, 8 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 3980-3300. DRAGON-I — Watch the bold and the beautiful work the celeb-studded room. It’s usually packed with models, especially on Wednesday nights. Podium, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 3110-1222. EXECUTIVE BAR — So quiet that the sound of a ninja’s sword slicing through silk would be cause for shushing. Well, not really, but it is quiet, Japanese and well-stocked with Scotch— the drink of the introspective man. 27/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 6710-2057.

For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at bars, restaurants and coffee shops).

26 W H E R E HONG KONG I J uly 2 014

Drinks GRAPPA’S CELLAR — This bustling after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians. B/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322.

Jaa Bar

Jaa Bar — Located in a small alleyway off of Peel Street, Jaa Bar combines comfort and charm for an exclusive experience. The centerpiece of the ornate enclave is a custom-made wooden bar pieced together from classical furniture pieces. 1 Pak Tsz Lane, Central, 2815-8887.

MO BAR — The bar at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental is a sleek, upscale addition to the nightlife scene. G/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0077. Ozone — Located 118 floors above the ground, this watering hole boasts a superlative title: the highest bar in Hong Kong. This nightspot is a must-see, especially due to its drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2263.

The Lawn — This outdoor garden is a genuine urban oasis, exuding a serene, intimate vibe and illuminated entirely by a few candles. 6/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106.

Quinary — Grab molecular cocktails in a chilledout lounge off Hollywood Road. Be impressed by local mixologist Antonio Lai’s creative drinks list. G/F, 56-58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-3223.

The Parlour — The kitschy-chic bar sits betwixt the equally droll west and east dining rooms, and looks like an exotic dive in 70s London Chinatown. Hullet House, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3988-0101.

KEE CLUB — A good concierge should be able to get you into this exclusive members-only club, where you can sip a cocktail and check out the Picassos, antiques and colonial-style service. 6/F, Yeung Kee Building, 32 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9000. L’etage — With the feel of a true gentlemen’s club, this is a place for refined Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a traditionally made cocktail in one hand and a cigar in another. It’s worth coming back just to watch head bartender Katsuhisa Hirakawa hand-carve spheres of ice for whisky. 22/F, Macau Yat Yuen Centre, 525 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2522-5300. LE BOUDOIR — This Francophone hangout is all sultry drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery. The cocktails are stellar, too. B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central, 2530-3870. LILY — Get buzzed in and out of Lily’s fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. Aesthetes will be delighted that so much attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166. Lion Rock — Lion Rock is the place to unwind and relax while having one (or more) of 193 signature cocktails. Enjoy the awesome view and weekly wine and whisky tastings. 3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel, 193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Mong Kok, 2622-6167. M BAR — Set against the heights of Hong Kong’s skyline, the Mandarin Oriental’s M Bar makes for a ravishingly chic hangout. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4002. Martini BAR — This stylish hotel bar has nightly entertainment, a range of cocktails beyond just martinis and is one of the few cigar lounges in town. G/F, The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2733-2995. MCSORLEY’S ALE HOUSE — Woody, Irish and vaguely Victorian, McSorley’s is the biggest pub in SoHo. 55 Elgin St., Central, 2522-2646.

The Lawn

The Pawn Red Bar

RED BAR — Located on a terrace atop IFC Mall, this funky destination bar has a breathtaking public outdoor area with harbor views. 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882. RIEDEL ROOM — The world’s first Riedel Room offers exclusive wines to be enjoyed in Riedel crystal glassware. Lobby, JW Marriott Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2841-3836.

THE PAWN — The modern British restaurant and bar, a former pawn shop, has an outdoor balcony from which to enjoy a view of Hong Kong’s 100-year-old trams. 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444. The Tonno — This complex features a bar, a clubbing zone, a restaurant, a live music lounge and karaoke rooms, taking “allaround entertainment” to a whole new level. Head here for an epic marathon of dancing, drinking, Elton John hits, dart games and Shanghainese buns. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.

Sake Bar Ginn — Sake sommelier Ayuchi Momose is behind this upper-floor bar. In addition to serving 100 types of sake and 30 Japanese tapas, she also imports special sakes by microbreweries. Shop 4C, 4/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2536-4355. Salon de Ning — Decadent Shanghai art deco lounge with live music Tue-Thu. UG/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6705.

Vibes

SHORE — A chill outdoor space and one of the most extensive drinks selections in town. Newly renovated. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2915-1638.

VIBES — The Mira hotel’s svelte alfresco drinks venue is home to a stunning secret garden. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5999.

Staunton’s — Considered the best “peoplewatching spot” in Hong Kong, Staunton’s has the right equation for a chill evening drink. It also has an eclectic menu. 10-12 Staunton St., Central, 2973-6611.

VOLAR — Frequented by models and wannabes, Volar can be exclusive, but you can dance the night away to top DJs. B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510.

SUGAR — Sink into one of the sofas at this swanky rooftop bar and enjoy the amazing views of the harbor. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Quarry Bay, 3968-3738.

WOOLOOMOOLOO — This steakhouse outlet boasts a gorgeous rooftop with stunning views of Victoria Harbour and the Happy Valley horse racing track. 31/F, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960. J uly 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 27

ShopS+Services | The Guide

Go Baller

Shopping Centers

The 2014 World Cup has kicked off, which means it’s time to splurge on some fancy football gear. By Katie Kenny

APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. Millennium City 5, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 3148-1200.

Elements

ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous roof garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234.

Spain jersey, $579, Adidas Watch, $600, Swatch Brazil jersey, $539, Nike

HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8601.

Hysan Place

Argentina polo shirt, $830, Nautica

HYSAN PLACE — This mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of high-quality dining options. 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222.

Brazil flip flops, $119, Dupé @ Wing On Germany board shorts, $459, O’Neill Brazuca official match ball, $1,199, Adidas

Adidas Shop 270, 2/F, Ocean Terminal, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2736-7055.

O’Neill 3/F, LCX, Ocean Terminal, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3755-4923.

Swatch G/F, Shop 2A, LHT Tower, 31 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2510-5242.

Wing On 211 Des Voeux Rd., Sheung Wan, 2852-1888.

Nike G/F, Trust Tower, 68 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2520-0771.

Nautica 5/F, Sogo, 529-555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2573-7715.

IFC Mall

IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international highend brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308. HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089.

Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.

28 WH E R E HONG KONG I J uly 2 014

ShopS+Services | The Guide ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2890-6823. THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols. 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3428-8086. LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mongkok, 3514-9088, www.langhamplace.com.hk. LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-2166, www.hysan.com.hk.

Daydream Nation — A locally grown label that incorporates fashion with other art forms like theater, dance, music, film and visual arts. They offer their own collection of clothing and accessories as well as works from local artists and indie bands. Daydream Nation Circus Shop, 2/F, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2817-6313.

Wudai Shiguo — This shop in the trendy Star Street neighborhood is a collaboration between a group of local designers and stocks Americanstyle fashion and accessories. 9B1 St. Francis St., Wan Chai, 2528-3800.

Department Stores G.O.D.

G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876.

Squarestreet

Squarestreet — Seriously hipster shoes and accessories. G/F, 15 Square St., Sheung Wan, 2362-1086. Lane Crawford

One Peking — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier. 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3417-3000. Rise Commercial Building — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-4723. TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 13-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket City’super, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.

Tang Tang Tang Tang

LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with must-have designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388.

Tang tang tang tang — Sir David Tang's casual lifestyle store stocks everything from rice cookers to pyjamas. G/F, 66 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2525-2112. Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist. Shop 209, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-0238.

Shops, Boutiques and Local Designers

Walter Ma — Well-established designer offering luxury fashion. 174 Wellington St., Central, 2838-7655.

Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men. Shop 123, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2104-7934.

Western Market — An Edwardian-styled building with restaurants and shops selling Chinese crafts and fabrics. 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 6029-2675.

30 WH E R E HONG KONG I J uly 2 014

Joyce

JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 28101120; Shop 232, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944; Shop 106, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-8128.

Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place

PRINCE’S BUILDING — Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkway to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uberfashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket. 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2500-0555.

Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant— the Fourth Floor —and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388.

Kapok — Offers meticulously selected international and local brands for menswear, womenswear, bags and accessories, as well as lifestyle products. G/F, 5, St Francis Yard, Wan Chai, 2549-9254. SPY Henry Lau — Edgy and bold fashion for men and women. G/F, 64 Lee Garden Rd., Causeway Bay, 2317-6928.

PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8900.

Wudai Shiguo

Shanghai Tang SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.

ShopS+Services | The Guide SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.

SPAS CHUAN SPA — This stunning spa focuses on the individual needs of each client through traditional Chinese medicine and theories, including yin and yang. Its consultants are qualified in Chinese medicine, massage and naturopathy. 41/F, Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3510, www.chuanspa.com.

and an extensive range of facial and body treatments in 23 rooms and suites. Other facilities include a 50-meter outdoor pool, fitness and exercise studios, a poolside grill restaurant and a tree-lined courtyard. 11/F, Grand Hyatt, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2588-1234, www.hongkong.grand.hyatt.com.

The Swank

THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freestanding boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-0842.

Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. Shop 220, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2735-4061. YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 301-309 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3511-2222.

Tailors DAVID FASHIONs — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884. L & K bespoke Tailor — G/F, Mirador Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278. Nita Fashions — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim vSha Tsui. 2721-9990, www.nitafashions.com. Punjab House — 5/F, Suite C, Golden Crown Court, 66-70 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612, www.punjabhouse.com.hk. Raja Fashions — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624, www.raja-fashions.com.

Flawless

FLAWLESS — This all-in-one shop offers makeup and nail services as well as spa treatments in a spacious upper-level venue. 4/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2869-5868. IYARA DAY SPA — This Central institution offers everything from manis and pedis to facials, waxing and massage treatments. 1/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2545-8638. KIWI SPA — With light green glass, curved walls and soft light and gentle music, Kiwi offers quality foot and body massages that are affordable at the same time. iPads and headsets are available to use at your leisure while you're enjoying the treatments. 14/F, Century Square Building, 1-13 D'Aguilar St., Central, 2567-1333, www.kiwi-hk.com. MANDARIN SPA — This luxe retreat has eight private treatment rooms, including two couples’ suites, each with private steam shower and pool. Its therapies combine ancient and contemporary techniques, and specialist practitioners offer treatments that incorporate ayurvedic philosophies and traditional Chinese medicine. 24/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4888, www.mandarinoriental.com/hongkong. MEN’S SKIN CENTRE BY BELLA — This center has tailor-made treatments that focus on deep cleansing, acne treatment, and rehydration to brighten and improve your complexion. It also offers laser hair removal services. 9/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-6352, www.bellaskin.com. MIRASPA — It’s pampering for the 21st century. The Mira Spa is comfortably futuristic, with purple and pure white accents and an indoor pool decorated with twinkling lights. Facilities include a jacuzzi plus steam and sauna rooms— and nifty waterbeds in the pre-treatment room. B3/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5500, www.themirahotel.com.

REGAL fashion — G/F, Shop 15, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-6007. Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 90-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423. Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1251. 32 WH E R E HONG KONG I J uly 2 014

Plateau Spa

PLATEAU SPA — This whopping 80,000-squarefoot spa offers overnight accommodation

Sense Of Touch

SENSE OF TOUCH — This award-winning day spa boasts an extensive menu, featuring such services as a couple’s deep tissue and detoxifying massage, a rose hydrating cocoon body wrap and a “forever young” facial. The lush spa also offers a range of exclusive signature treatments, including the Elemis hot stone therapy for body and face. 1-5/F, 52 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2526-6918, www.senseoftouch.com.hk. THE PENINSULA SPA BY ESPA — This twofloor spa has sweeping harbor views. Designed by Henry Leung, the interior fuses contemporary and traditional Chinese elements. Much attention has been given to detail, including 100-percent Egyptian cotton robes and fully automated Clodagh Gemini treatment beds. 7/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2969-6682, www.hongkong.peninsula.com.

The Ritz-Carlton Spa

THE RITZ-CARLTON SPA BY ESPA — Get pampered at the highest hotel spa in the world. Located on the 116th floor, this relaxing retreat looms over the city and offers majestic views of Victoria Harbour. Spa guests can also take a dip in the hotel's sky-high infinity pool after their treatments. 116/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2040, www.ritzcarlton.com /hongkong. THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS — This urban sanctuary is everything you would expect from the Four Seasons: 22,000 square feet of sumptuousness, including Finnish saunas, an ice fountain, a crystal fountain, vitality pools and an amethyst crystal steam room. Two spa suites include a pool for two, day beds and a private bar. 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8900, www.fourseasons.com/hongkong.

ShopS+Services

TEN FEET TALL — Go to Ten Feet Tall for a slightly different foot massage experience in an exotic ambience. The foot massage center features bright and sunny beach cabanas with pine, bamboo, natural marble and bright décor. The place’s signature treatments include genuine foot reflexology, shoulder and neck massage, pressure point massage and aromatic oil massage. 20-21/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2971-1010, www.tenfeettall.com.hk.

HAIR AIMEE AT THE SHANGRI-LA — Staffed by international stylists offering everything from bridal makeovers, haircuts, coloring and waves to manicures, pedicures and professional makeup application. 8/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-1339. AIRPLAY BLOW DRY BAR — Get your hair and makeup done all at once at Airplay, and choose from different looks like “Sea Breeze” (wavy hair) or “Mojito” (playful curls). 7/F, W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2641-9888, www.airplaybar.com. QG PRIVATE I SALON — Located in the Four Seasons, the flagship of the Private I group is suitably beautiful, with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out onto an astounding harbor view. Expect to find yourself rubbing shoulders with politicians, tycoons and the jet set. 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 2521-0070, www.privatei.com.hk.

NAILS NAIL NAIL — This is the place for innovative nails, including gel nails, airbrushing and the truly decadent one-carat diamond manicure, which is by appointment only. It also offers waxing and temporary tattoos. Shop 1091A, 1/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2366-9322, www.nailnail.com.hk. NAIL SPA — Nail services and treatments for men and women are the specialty here, including French manicures and paraffin foot therapy. Gel and acrylic nails are available along with nail painting, embossed nail art, semi-precious gemstones, crystal embossing and graduated nail painting. 1/F, 8 Pak Sha Rd., Causeway Bay, 2478-9333, www.nailspa.com.hk.

The Loft

THE LOFT — A spin-off of The Nail Library in Sheung Wan, this new Central shop right by the escalators offers men’s barbering services, facials as well as hand and foot spa treatments—and of course, manicures and pedicures. 2/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2618-8623. J uly 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 33

Navigate | The Guide

Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call the Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions, plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals, as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.

Get Moving

Octopus Cards

Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.

These are “wave-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.

Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English, but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.

The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $48, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.

Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.

34 WH E R E HONG KONG I J uly 2 014

Navigate Buses

Kung Fu Sighting

Hong Kong has two major bus companies:

Take yourself on a kung fu tour of the city and retrace the steps of Hong Kong’s kung fu masters. By Yannie Chan

citybus / New World First BUS — 2136-8888/2873-0818, www.nwstbus.com.hk.

Kowloon Motor Bus — 2745-4466, www.kmb.hk.

Sights & Attractions AVENUE OF STARS — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes’ handprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars. There's also a statue of martial artist Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly Symphony of Lights. It's the only place where music plays over loudspeakers, although the light display can be seen around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront.

Lam Chun Hin Osteopathy Clinic Lam Sai-wing, a disciple of folk hero Wong Fei-hung, established his kung fu school and bonesetting clinic in Wan Chai’s fabled Blue House in the 1950s. He taught more than 10,000 students—martial artist Lau Kar-leung’s father was one of them. Due to the ongoing Blue House revitalization project, the shop has now temporarily relocated elsewhere until mid-2016, but the historic shop front remains a district landmark and a popular photo spot. G/F, Blue House, 72 Stone Nullah Lane, Wan Chai.

The Grave of Ip Man Wing Chun master Ip Man died of throat cancer in 1972: pay your respects to the great man’s grave in Fanling. Get off at Fanling Station and take the left exit. Walk towards Fung Ying Seen Koon Temple, locate an upward path, and walk until you find yellow fences and signs that say “Graye of Ving Tsun Grandmaster Ip Man” (Yup, it’s misspelled). You’ll find incense sticks at the grave; light them and raise them three times in respect.

Kwan Tai Temple The Kwan Tai or Mo Tai Temple is a historically significant site for the many kung fu clans that settled in Sham Shui Po in the 1950s. “Sham Shui Po is the starting point of kung fu in Hong Kong,” says Walter Ng, co-founder of Alien United, which organizes regular kung fu heritage tours. “Most of the big kung fu names, including Ip Man, visited

the temple regularly and held bai si ceremonies accepting disciples there.” Ng’s next kung fu heritage tour is on July 13; call 9340-1905 to sign up.

BANK OF CHINA TOWER — I. M. Pei designed this 70-story building and bank headquarters to resemble stalks of bamboo. 1 Garden Rd., Central.

158-162 Hai Tan St., Sham Shui Po.

Wing On Plaza Head over to Wing On Plaza, where the iconic closing sequence of “Police Story” (1985) was shot. Go to the fifth floor, look down, and relive the excitement of the scene from actor Jackie Chan's point of view. 62 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui.

Shamrock Seafood Restaurant This restaurant was a regular Sunday hangout for kung fu star Bruce Lee. Martial artist Ip Man would visit the 60-plus-year-old establishment and have long chats with Lee, according to Ip’s disciple Sam Lau. After some dim sum, visit Bruce Lee’s childhood home nearby, at 5 Mau Lam Street. G/F, Shamrock Hotel, 223 Nathan Rd., Jordan, 2730-3519.

Shaolin Wushu Culture Centre Established in 2006, the center aims to preserve and promote Shaolin culture in Hong Kong. The center offers intensive training courses and serves Shaolin vegetarian dishes. It also provides accommodation for tourists and for kung fu lovers looking for the full-on zen experience. Rooms start at $200 per night. Shek Tsai Po, Tai O, Lantau, 2985-8898, www.shaolincc.org.hk.

Big Buddha

BIG BUDDHA — One of the world’s largest Buddhas, the Tian Tan Buddha took 12 years to build and sits on a lotus throne atop Lantau Island. The more than 200 steps to the top are open from 10am to 6pm daily and definitely recommended for the spectacular mountain views. Special admission tickets are available and include a vegetarian meal. Also check out the nearby Po Lin Monastery and the Wisdom Path. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and then Bus 23 to Ngong Ping. CHI LIN NUNNERY — An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It’s a 23,600-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1997. It’s centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds. Vegetarian food is available. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888. CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE — Finished in time to host the handover ceremony in July 1997, the center’s roof was designed to look like a seabird’s wings in flight. 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, 2582-8888. HONG KONG DISNEYLAND — Take a trip back to the 1900s on Main Street, catch a train to Fantasyland, float down the Rivers of Adventure, catch a show or blast through outer space in Tomorrowland. When you’re done charting your exotic surroundings take a moment to dine, shop or cavort with the various Disney characters who roam the park. It’s easy to get to via MTR, bus or car. See park.hongkongdisneyland. com for transportation details. Lantau Island, 1-830-830. J uly 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 35

Navigate | The Guide

Hong Kong Dolphinwatch — Catch a glimpse of the pink dolphins, an animal so unique to these waters that it was named the official mascot of Hong Kong’s 1997 handover. Tours depart every Wed, Fri and Sun from the Kowloon Hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui at 9am, or from Tung Chung. The cruise takes up to five hours, and if no dolphins are seen, the company provides a free “go-again guarantee.” $380 for adults, $190 for children under 12, $50 for babies under 3, with proceeds going to dolphin research. Call 2984-1414 or visit www.hkdolphinwatch.com.

Sam’s The Man

HONG KONG ZOOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL GARDENS — Home to 12 endangered species, the zoo successfully breeds rare birds and orangutans. Established in 1871, the park retains all the Victorian accents from that era and is an idyllic spot in the middle of the city. Admission free. Open daily 6am-7pm. Garden Rd., Central. A staircase from Upper Albert Rd. leads to the main entrance.

(Just ask his customers)

OPEN-TOP BUS TOUR — One Big Bus day tour ticket includes 24-hour hop-on-hop-off access to the red tour (Hong Kong Island) and the blue tour (Kowloon), as well as prerecorded commentary in 10 languages and other perks. Unit KP-38, 1/F, Kowloon Star Ferry Pier, Tsim Sha Tsui, 3102-9021.

Peak Tram

PEAK TRAM AND VICTORIA PEAK — The world’s steepest funicular railway hauls passengers up Victoria Peak in approximately eight minutes. Once at the top, enjoy panoramic views of the city, or check out the restaurants, shops and various attractions at the Peak Galleria and Peak Tower. The tram runs daily 7am-midnight, tickets $28 one-way, $40 round trip. Garden Road and Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2522-0922. SIK SIK YUEN WONG TAI SIN TEMPLE — This active Buddhist temple is large and colorful with beautiful adjoining gardens. Have your fortune told by palm readers in the main arcade. Open 7am-5:30pm. A small donation is expected. Follow signs from Wong Tai Sin MTR station. 2327-8141.

Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon. Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147

Man Mo Temple

MAN MO TEMPLE — This temple was built in 1847 to honor the God of Literature, Man Cheong, and the God of War, Mo Tai. A Grade 1 historical building, it is one of biggest tourist attractions in Central. 124-126 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan.

Star Ferry

STAR FERRY — Cross Victoria Harbour between Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon Peninsula on the Star Ferry. These open-deck ferries are one of Hong Kong’s most recognizable attractions and a common, cheap—and pleasant—form of transportation. Take the MTR to Central or Tsim Sha Tsui and follow the signs.

Ngong Ping 360

NGONG PING 360 — Home to a theater, teahouse, nature center, cultural themed village and more, Ngong Ping 360 is best known for its 5.7-kilometer cable-car service that offers panoramic views of Lantau Island’s lush valleys, the South China Sea and the world-famous Tian Tan Buddha. Start from Tung Chung Station, 3666-0606. OCEAN PARK — Pay a visit to Hong Kong’s two pandas, take a cable car, then prepare for a good scream on Ocean Park's Turbo Drop thrill ride. Remember to check out the Grand Aquarium as well. Aberdeen, 3923-2323. 36 WH E R E HONG KONG I J uly 2 014

ST. JOHN’S CATHEDRAL — A beautiful cathedral built in the shape of a cross. Open daily from 7am to 6pm for quiet prayer and meditation. Take the MTR to Central Station Exit K.

Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery

TEN THOUSAND BUDDHAS MONASTERY — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800

Navigate

Buddhas stored in three temples, four pavilions and a five-story pagoda. The one that you’re likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk Yuet Kai, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin MTR, Exit B, 2691-1067, www.10kbuddhas.org. TAI O — This charming fishing village is a maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the very tip of Lantau Island. It’s a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, the picturesque Tin Hau Temple and a couple of interesting little museums. Take a ferry from Central.

Embassies & Consulates Argentina 2523-3208; Australia 2827-8881; Bangladesh 2827-4278; Belgium 2524-3111; Brazil 2525-7002; Canada 3719-4700; Chile 2827-1826; China (China Travel) 2853-3888; Colombia 2545-8547; Czech Republic 2802-2212; Egypt 2827-0668; Finland 2525-5385; France 3752-9900; Germany 2105-8788; Greece 2774-1682; India 3970-9900; Israel 2821-7500; Italy 2522-0033; Japan 2522-1184; Korea 25294141; Laos 2544-1186; Malaysia 2821-0800; Mexico 2511-3305; Netherlands 25229200; New Zealand 2525-5044; Pakistan 2827-0295; Philippines 2823-8501; Peru 2868-2622; Poland 2840-0779; Russia 2877-7188; Singapore 2527-2212; Spain 2525-3041; Sweden 2521-1212; Switzerland 3509-5000; Taiwan 2530-1187; Thailand 2521-6481; Turkey 2572-1331; United Arab Emirates 2866-1823; United Kingdom 2901-3000; USA 2523-9011; Venezuela 2730-8099; Vietnam 2591-4510.

Financial Matters Generally, business hours are weekdays 9am-5pm, with a lunch hour from 1pm2pm, and Saturdays 9am-1pm. The local currency is the Hong Kong dollar. There is no central mint; instead, notes are issued by three separate private banks and the city’s Monetary Authority. The Hong Kong dollar is pegged to the US dollar at a rate of approximately US$1 to HK$7.75. Denominations include $10, $20, $50, $100, $500 and $1,000 notes. Coins come in denominations of 10, 20 and 50 cents, and one, two, five and 10 dollars. BANKS — Major banks are open weekdays 9am-4:30pm, and Saturdays 9am12:30pm. Banks are closed Sundays and public holidays. Some services, such as foreign exchange-related transactions, are not available at banks one hour before closing. The following details are for the banks’ main offices, call for retail locations: Bank of America, 41/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 2847-5222; Citibank, Citibank Tower, 3 Garden Rd., Central, 2868-8888; HSBC, 1 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2233-3000; Standard Chartered Bank, 4 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2886-8868.

HONG KONG TAKE HONG KONG WITH YOU, EVER YOUR TRAVELS MAY TAKE YOU. Subscribe to WHERE Hong Kong’s eBook edition and have every issue delivered straight to your inbox once monthly. tiny.cc/whk-ebook J uly 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 37

Walking Tours | The Guide

A Walk of Good Fortune The Wong Tai Sin district gets its name from the famous Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple, the area’s most prominent landmark. It attracts thousands of worshippers on a daily basis who are seeking help for personal or business matters. Other places of interest include the Hau Wong Temple, which dates back to the Qing Dynasty, and Nan Lian Garden, built in the style of the ancient Tang Dynasty. The neighboring area of Kowloon City is where the last emperor of the Song Dynasty fled after he escaped invading Mongol forces more than 700 years ago. More recently, it housed an infamously lawless enclave, the Kowloon Walled City, which was torn down in 1994 and replaced by a park of the same name. The district is also renowned for its dining, with a group of almost 200 restaurants within a 10-block radius that cater to a wide variety of tastes. 38 WH E R E HONG KONG I J uly 2 014

Take the MTR to the Diamond Hill station. Leave the station from Exit C2 and follow the signs pointing to Nan Lian Garden.

Nan Lian Garden This 35,000-square-meter Tang Dynasty-style garden features characteristic timber structures, water ponds, various oddly shaped rocks, and lots of old and valuable trees. Apart from the scenic Lotus Pond and Blue Pond, there is also a restaurant called Chi Lin Vegetarian where visitors can enjoy vegetarian food provided by the Chi Lin Nunnery. Inside this lovely green oasis, visitors can also experience Chinese tea-drinking culture and etiquette at the teahouse that’s also within the garden’s grounds.

Kowloon Walled City Park

Take the MTR to the Lok Fu station, leave the station via Exit B and follow the directional signs pointing to the Hau Wong Temple.

Hau Wong Temple Get back on the MTR and get out at the Wong Tai Sin station, exit B3. Follow the signs pointing to the Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple.

Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple This is one of the most popular temples in Hong Kong. According to legend, Wong Tai Sin is able to “make every wish come true upon request.” The temple is home to three different religions: Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism. The part containing Wong Tai Sin’s portrait is where worshippers pray for good fortune through offerings, and seek divine guidance through fortune telling. Shake a bamboo container filled with fortune sticks and see what the future holds. Open daily, 7am–5:30pm.

One of the legends surrounding this temple, built in 1730 under the Qing Dynasty, says it was erected to commemorate a Chinese general who helped the last Song emperor escape the forces invading Kowloon. Another legend, though, claims it was dedicated to a local inhabitant who had cured the last emperor of the southern Song Dynasty of a serious illness.

combines the history and atmosphere of the former Walled City. Sites worth visiting include the Garden of the Chinese Zodiac, the Chess Garden, the Mountain View Pavilion and the Garden of Four Seasons. Open daily, 6:30am-11pm. Call 2716-9962 for more information. Walk through Kowloon Walled City Park and Carpenter Road Park. Cross Carpenter Road to reach Nam Kok Road, also known as the Kowloon City food district.

Kowloon City Food District

Kowloon Walled City Park

An area of 10 streets bounded by Prince Edward Road West, Junction Road and Carpenter Road, the Kowloon City Food District is where you can find around 200 inexpensive and often family-run restaurants serving mostly local favorites, Southeast Asian cuisine and yummy western pastries.

By a quirk of history, Kowloon Walled City remained outside British jurisdiction after Hong Kong became a colony— and subsequently became an area with an infamous reputation. Today, this Chinese-style park harmoniously

Afterwards, take green minibus 25M from Sa Po Road (beside the Regal Oriental Hotel) to the Kowloon Tong MTR station, and then take the MTR back to your hotel.

Cross the road and walk along Tung Tau Tsuen Road to reach the North Gate of Kowloon Walled City Park.

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map Y

ÂŠ OpenStreetMap contributors. See openstreetmap.org

40 W H E R E HONG KONG I J uly 2 014

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30 Things we LOve about Hong Kong 2

1 Shopping at Times Square.

9 Snaking through the

1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay.

high-rises on the Mid-Levels Escalator—the longest in the world. Cochrane, Shelley and Peel Streets, Central.

2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1604.

3 Visiting the Kun Yam Temple. Kun Yam Street, Jordan.

4 Dining aboard the kitschy-cool Jumbo Floating Restaurant. Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen, 2553-9111.

5 Riding a cable car 5.7 kilometers over Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Ngong Ping cultural village and the Big Buddha.

6 Being fitted for a tailor-made suit. Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.

7 Shopping for antique kitsch on Cat Street (Upper Lascar Row) in Sheung Wan.

8 Cheering on jockeys at the Sha Tin Racecourse on Sundays. Visit www.hkjc.com for info.

!0 Taking a walk down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defense. 2569-1500. !1 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. Gough Street, Central. !2 Getting a shave and a trim at the Mandarin Barber. 5 Connaught Rd.,Central, 2522-0111. !3 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 23-25 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. !4 Having our palms read at Temple Street Night Market. Temple Street, Yau Ma Tei. !5 Sipping on decadent cocktails while taking in the spectacular view at Eyebar. 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2487-3988.

42 WH E R E HONG KONG I J uly 2 014

!6 Taking one of the oldest rides in Hong Kong—a tram from Western Market in Sheung Wan to Causeway Bay.

@4 Buying witty chinoiserie at Shanghai Tang's beautiful new flagship mansion. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.

!7 Cruising Victoria Harbour on the Duk Ling, an authentic Chinese junk. 2573-5282.

@5 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach. Lantau Island.

!8 Being entertained by the intriguing performances and exhibitions at the Fringe Club. 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central, 2521-7251.

@6 Snacking on delicious egg tarts at Tai Cheong Bakery. 32 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 8300-8301.

!9 Marveling at the Symphony of Lights show over Victoria Harbour at 8pm every night. @0 Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei. @1 Dressing up for high tea at The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6772. @2 Taking a ride on the Peak Tram. 33 Garden Rd., Central, 2522-0922. @3 Doing some late-night shopping on Sai Yeung Choi Street in Mong Kok.

@7 Seeing our animated favorites come to life at Hong Kong Disneyland. Lantau Island, 1-830-830. @8 Stopping for tea at Fook Ming Tong Tea Shop. Shop 3316, 3/F, The Gateway, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-1077. @9 Spending the afternoon at the mall. Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8988. #0 Slurping oysters for brunch at Cafe Deco. 1-2/F, The Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-5111.

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