WHERE Hong Kong - June 2013 by WHERE Hong Kong

J U N E 2 013

the complete guide to go

速

Hong Kong

Hot new bars

Two Jean-Michel Basquiat exhibitions Fun in Tai Hang

Ready, Set, Row Dragon Boat Races

where Hong Kong 6.13 ®

the guide

06 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events

20 art + antiques Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening

30 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town

38 nightlife Our favorite places to sip a cocktail

52 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot

54 Maps Kowloon & Hong Kong Island

Also inside 40 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers 46 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info

features

58 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences

10 Boat People It's Dragon Boat season!

26 Spear Special White asparagus is all the rage in Hong Kong

on the cover J U N E 2013

thE complEtE gUidE to go

Hong Kong

46 Cool 'Hood

Liquid-nitro ice-cream, handmade candies— find all these and more in Tai Hang

Hot new bars

two Jean-MicHel basquiat exHibitions Fun in tai Hang

Thousands of paddlers take to the waters for the annual dragon boat races held in different parts of the city. See page 10.

ready, set, Row Dragon Boat Races

wheretraveler.com The new website from the editors of Where Magazine. Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.

June 2013 I WHERE hong k o n g 3

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On the web: www.where-hongkong.com asia city Media group acMG | ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION Publisher & Executive Editor Stephen Freeman COUNTRY MANAGER Greg Crandall ADVERTISING director Jan Cheng Advertising manager Heisen Cheng Advertising Executives Ivor Ngo, Maggie Chong Advertising Coordinator Sharon Cheung Marketing MANAGER James Gannaban Marketing & Circulation Executive Charmaine Mirandilla REGIONAL IT SYSTEMS Manager Derek Wong

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hot dates Hong Kong

June 12 Making Waves Here’s a funky collaboration: Cult Icelandic group Múm is joining forces with surf-rock three-piece Wavves to perform at KITEC in their Hong Kong debuts. Think Bjork's soft vocals combined with Nirvana's grunge—together this pair will thrill you with unconventional sounds. 7:30pm. Musiczone, KITEC, 1 Trademart Drive, Kowloon Bay. $420 from www.ticketflap.com. 6 W H ERE H ONG KONG I June 2013

hot dates June 4

What up, Wolfgang?

June 21-23 Chugging Along Coinciding with the annual Dragon Boat Festival, the San Miguel BeerFest is on throughout the weekend. The event features a “Guzzler Challenge” drinking competition, which tests participants’ beer-drinking skills and offers a chance to win a trophy. Local bands and singers such as Sugar Club and Supper Moment will be performing at a “Sizzling Asian Rock” gig alongside. Jun 21-23, 12pm. Urban Council Centenary Garden, Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. Free.

The Bel Canto Singers’ “Classical Moments” series is a treat for opera lovers around town, and its tenth edition, “A Mozart Rehearsal,” boasts an all-Mozart program. The virtuoso composer’s lieder, arias and opera ensembles are included here, as is a reduced version of “Die Zauberflöte” and a piece commissioned from local composer Dennis Wu. Best of all, the presentation of these pieces is done in a clever manner: singers will interweave the music with an overarching plot, wherein they are rehearsing pieces for a big show. 8pm. Theatre, City Hall, 5 Edinburgh Place, Central. $180-320 from www.urbtix.hk.

June 1

June 24

Through June 9

Dark Shadows

Off the Recorder

Rub a Duck Duck

Have you ever seen the Anthony Hopkins/ Debra Winger flick “Shadowlands”? This play of the same name adapts William Nicholson’s excellent film script to the stage. It’s about the real-life relationship between British author C.S. Lewis and American poet Joy Davidman. This production is put on by the Hong Kong Players and is directed by Adam Harris; snap up your tickets, lit lovers! 3pm, 8pm. Sheung Wan Civic

Ian Anderson’s the frontman of British prog rockers Jethro Tull, and he’s best known for capering about on one leg while playing the flute. He’s gracing Hong Kong with his presence 20 years after his last performance here. The band started in 1967, and moved from blues rock to experimental stuff as time went by. Fun fact: the band was named for the 17thcentury agriculturalist who invented the seed drill. 8pm. AsiaWorld-Expo, Chek Lap Kok. $380-

Hong Kong’s harbor is the new backdrop for Dutch artist Florentijn Hofman’s recent conceptual piece: a giant 16.5-meter inflatable rubber duck that floats in the ocean instead of a tub. There will undoubtedly be an element of nostalgia among many as they reminisce over this iconic bathtub companion docked at Ocean Terminal. The duck will be here for a brief stint before bringing joy to other ports of call across the world. Ocean Terminal, Harbour

2,480 from www.hkticketing.com.

City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui.

Centre, 345 Queen’s Rd. Central, Sheung Wan. $250 from www.urbtix.hk.

June 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 7

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hot dates Hong Kong June 1-4

Through June 9

June 6

Dance, Baby, Dance

Just For Laughs

Electrifying Tunes

Ladies and gents, Ryan Stout is coming to Hong Kong. A comedy festival winner at the age of 22, the smirking, smart Stout has his own “Comedy Central Presents...” special and has appeared on “Conan,” HBO, MTV, and at the Just For Laughs festival, to name only a few. Stout and Comedy.hk have teamed up for five Hong Kong performances at various venues around town, so visit comedy.hk/ ryanstout for more information on the shows and to lock up your tickets before they disappear. Jun 1, 8pm; Jun 4, 8pm. $250.

Following the success of various hits, including 2011’s “Levels,” Swedish DJ Avicii has become one of the most talked-about young talents on the scene. Catch the 23-year-old electro house wunderkind perform at KITEC, in an event that kicks off a series of concerts bringing international acts to town. This gig also features Hard Rock Sofa, MAKJ, Iron Kids and DJ Frankie Lam. 9:45pm. Star Hall, KITEC,

Through June 23

June 14-16

The city’s only aerial arts and pole dancing school, Aerial Arts Academy, is holding their fourth annual student showcase, which is perfect for those who are keen on supporting the local arts and those wanting to try some moves themselves. 7:30pm. Levels, 2/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, 2811-1568. $200-260.

June 12-15

1 Trademart Drive, Kowloon Bay. $980 from www.hkticketing.com.

Highs and Lows French screenwriter Jean-Michel Ribes and director Emilie Guillot are no strangers to the theater. "Musée Haut, Musée Bas," a spin off from the Hollywood movie “A Day at the Museum," describes an ordinary day at an art museum that turns disastrous. Performed in French with English surtitles. June 12–5,

French Fervor

A Very Merry Tale

From its humble beginnings in 1993, Le French May has developed into one of the most successful cultural festivals in Hong Kong. Essentially, LFM is a more-than-month-long celebration of French culture, with hundreds of events like classical concerts, theater, movie screenings and lunch and dinner promotions at various establishments across the city. Be sure to check out their website for complete program details. Various establishments across the city, www.frenchmay.com.

The Merry Widow is a flirty, funny crowdpleaser that first debuted with The Australian Ballet in 1975, when choreographer Ronald Hynd created the male lead role especially for Principal Dancer John Meehan. Here’s the Hong Kong connection: when the romantic performance first premiered in Hong Kong in 2007, Meehan had just taken over as Artistic Director for the Hong Kong Ballet. They’ve welcomed him back to train the dancers for this five-show run. There are waltzes, the can-can, glorious decor, lavish costumes and musical accompaniment from the Hong Kong Sinfonietta. Jun 14-16, 7:30pm; Jun 15-16, 2:30pm. Concert Hall, Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $140-1,000 from www.urbtix.hk.

8– 10:30pm; June 15, 2:45pm. HK Rep Black Box, 8/F, Sheung Wan Civic Centre, 345 Queen’s Rd. Central, Sheung Wan. $180–240 from urbtix.hk, 2734-9009.

June 6

Spin Doctors DJ Klaus and percussionist Ameet “El Bongo” Jugnauth are Boujis’ resident DJs at its London branch, and they return to Hong Kong to spin as part of Belvedere’s Beat party series. 11pm. Boujis, 37 Pottinger St., Central, 2324-0200. Call to RSVP and for table bookings.

8 W H ERE H ONG KONG I June 2013

Whatever Floats YourBoat Catch a blood-pumping drum-thrashing dragon boat race while you’re in town.

very June, the beaches of Hong Kong come alive for the annual Tuen Ng Festival, also known as the Dragon Boat Festival. This year, the festival is on June 12—on a Wednesday—which means Hongkongers get to take a public holiday right in the middle of the week to catch the various dragon boat races across the city, as well as to gobble up sticky rice dumplings, or “zong” as they are known in Cantonese. There have been many different theories about the origins of this public holiday, but the one that survives can be traced back to 278 BC, and is centered

10 W HERE H ONG KONG I J UNE 2013

around the story of poet Qu Yuan, from Zhou Dynasty China. Qu was serving as a high–ranking official before the then-king accused him of treason and exiled him to his hometown south of the Yangtze River. Depressed by China’s new rulers, Qu Yuan later committed suicide by drowning himself in the river. In commemoration of Qu, people tossed bamboo-leaf-wrapped zong into that same river, hoping the fish would eat these treats instead of his body. Boatmen in the area also started beating drums to scare the carnivores away. Today, the festival is celebrated with various dragon boat races around the city’s beaches. Here are three upcoming festivities well worth checking out.

Tai O Dragon Boat Water Parade

Sun Life Stanley International Dragon Boat Championships This year, there are record-breaking numbers of paddlers in the dragon boat competition at Stanley—more than 250 local and expat teams with over 5,000 participants will be duking it out from 8am to 5pm. Teams compete in various divisions (ladies’, men’s and mixed) and are comprised of professional dragon boat teams and also corporate ones. But we all know why this race is so popular: the presence of corporate teams means there’ll be plenty of junks to hop on, and plenty of refreshments to go around. The Stanley race is pretty much THE summer party of the year, and you’ll catch merrymakers and beer-guzzlers aplenty on Stanley Main Street after the races.

2013 Aberdeen Dragon Boat Race Sixty-five teams will be competing in the Aberdeen race this year. The first race starts at 8:30am and the whole event ends at 4pm. Similar to last year, distinctive booths will be set up along the Aberdeen Promenade. Viewing along the promenade is free of charge but free tickets are required to enter the bamboocanopied spectator stand. Tickets can be obtained at the Public Enquiry Service Centre of the Home Affairs Department (G/F, Ocean Court, 3 Aberdeen Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2575-2477). June 23, Aberdeen Promenade, Aberdeen Praya Road, Aberdeen, 8107-3488, www.facebook.com/aberdeendragonboat.

June 12, Stanley Main Beach & Stanley Main Street, Stanley, 2813-0564, www.dragonboat.org.hk. JUNE 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 11

Tai O Dragon Boat Water Parade On the day of the Tuen Ng Festival, the Tai O Dragon Boat Water Parade (also called the Tai O Deities Parade) takes place in this tiny, sleepy Lantau Island fishing village. The day before, fishermen row boats to four temples to collect the deities’ statues, and transfer them to the dragon boats. The next day, the dragon boats parade the statues through the waters of Tai O. Alongside the parade, there is also a dragon boat race organized by the Tai O Rural Committee, from 8am to 2pm. Stanley Championships

Paddles Up Want to know what it takes to compete on a dragon boat team? We ask Kim Chan of local social team Way Young Dragon Boat Club (www.wayyoungdragon.com) for an insider’s guide to group paddling.

How many people paddle on a boat? Boats come in three different sizes: small, medium and large. The number of paddlers range from 12, 20 to 60. The largest of the three is no longer available for open racing. The medium-sized boat is the most common in the competition.

Are there different types of boats? Under the current International Dragon Boat Federation (IDBF), there are specific

Way Young Dragon Boat Club 12 W HERE H ONG KONG I J UNE 2013

guidelines and regulations for boat sizes. Fiberglass boats are most commonly used, as they are much more practical than wooden boats. Fiberglass is easy to maintain, environmentally friendly, and much cheaper than wooden boats.

Are there different positions and functions for the paddlers? All positions are important in a dragon boat. Different coaches may have their own positioning strategies for different types of boats and sea conditions. Usually, for the standard boat, the first three rows are for the pacemakers; the middle four rows are for the strongest paddlers, and the last three rows help support everyone else in front.

What does the drummer do? Other than the obvious role of keeping rhythm, the drummer is the nerve centre

June 12, Tai O Promenade, Tai O Road, Lantau Island, www.tai-o.hk. 9629-4581.

of the boat. The drummer makes the appropriate signals to the paddlers, and is constantly making strategic decisions throughout the race.

How is dragon boating different or similar to other types of rowing? Unlike other rowing sports, dragon boating is faced with the challenge of organizing and motivating a large group of people. That being said, once members are in a team, they quickly bond with other members. Excuse the pun, but they’re all in the same boat—through thick and thin, they come together as one. I actually consider dragon boating to be extremely sociable, just like any other team sports. Y

Bundles of Joy Watching the races is just one part of the Dragon Boat Festival celebrations—the other involves eating lots and lots of sticky rice dumplings all month long. Here are some restaurants that are offering the tasty zong in every variety you can imagine.

Four Seasons Summer Palace

Dim Sum Bar Shang Palace Traditional rice dumplings take on modern twists for this year’s Dragon Boat Festival at the Kowloon Shangri-La’s Shang Palace. Until June 12, you have the chance to order from many different selections: dumplings filled with red wine and cranberry; green bean paste; pandan paste; and oatmeal and black truffle. Sticky rice dumplings with Japanese pork and red beans are another variety, along with more traditional bamboo-wrapped dumplings of conpoy, abalone, pork, and salted egg; sweet tooths can also go for the lotus seed paste option. Prices range from $58 to $208, and you can call the Shang Palace at 2733-8401 to place an order. Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2733-8754.

Four Seasons

Shang Palace

Summer Palace In celebration of this year’s Tuen Ng Festival, the two-star Michelin restaurant Summer Palace is launching a series of delicious glutinous rice dumplings to feed festive souls. Using the finest ingredients hand-picked by Chef Ip Chi-cheng, these traditional sticky rice treats all have a luxurious twist. From May 6 to June 12, three sumptuous dumplings will be available: sticky rice dumplings with abalone ($258), sticky rice dumplings with sweetened red beans and bird’s nest ($258) and, for a healthy alternative, purple zong with assorted wild mushrooms ($138). Packaged in a sleek and elegant red box, these traditional treats make ideal gifts for families and friends. Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2820-8551.

14 W HERE H ONG KONG I J UNE 2013

Just in time for the Dragon Boat Festival, the Dim Sum Bar at Harbour City in Tsim Sha Tsui will be offering three different types of delicious rice dumplings. Meatlovers can enjoy the traditional salted pork, dried shrimp and salted egg yolk variety or the conpoy, mushroom, salted egg yolk, duck, and pork option, while vegetarian diners may prefer the dumplings with peanuts and assorted beans. The dumplings, which range in price from $50 to $70, can be preordered to be taken home for dinner—or you can eat them right at the restaurant until June 12. Shop G103, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2175-3100.

Lung King Heen In celebration of the Dragon Boat Festival, the award-winning Lung King Heen is offering two dumpling gift boxes catered to both savory and sweet palates. Craving something salty? The organic glutinous rice dumpling with abalone and conpoy makes a delicious option. For the sweet toothed, the sweet organic mixed bean rice dumpling with lotus seed paste or taro puree makes a great option for a healthy, sugary treat. Both gift boxes are paired with premium oolong tea imported from Chao An, and are priced at $268 and $188 depending on the flavors. The gift boxes are available for collection from now until June 12. Two-days’ notice are needed before the collection date. Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8880.

Y Continued from p.12

What types of equipment are required? Overall, a paddler doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to spend a fortune on top quality gear. Basic equipment includes a paddle (made of wood or fiberglass), a pair of non-slippery shoes, a pair of gloves (optional), sunglasses, sun block, long-sleeved clothing (optional), and a life jacket (optional in Hong Kong). All this and a great attitude, of course.

How fit do you have to be to be on a dragon boat team? Generally speaking, any person who can swim at least 100 meters, and who is in good physical health can compete in the social divisions of dragon boating. The more serious competitors tend to have more intensive training schedules, both on and off the water. Either way, you can pick and choose a team that best suits your capabilities and aspirations.

What types of ground and water exercises are required? Any exercise that helps develop your overall fitness and body strength is great for this sport. Some common forms of exercise include push-ups, sit-ups, rowing machines, swimming, cycling, and jogging. The amount of exercise really depends on how hard you want to push, and how competitive your team is.

Which muscles do you work? Dragon Boating is similar to swimming. It offers a full body workout, developing your upper and lower body.

How long does an average training session last for? There is no set length for a training session; it varies according to weather conditions, and the overall fitness of the team. Usually, training may last anywhere between one and two hours. An average session usually includes a warm-up, briefing, cool-down, debrief, and breaks. JUNE 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 15

AUGUSTE RODIN Bronzes: Exceptional Early Casts

In collaboration with Nevill Keating Pictures, Ltd L EL DD DU RE

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16 Ice House Street Central Hong Kong T: 21678896 www.desarthe.com

8/F Club Lusitano Building

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Auguste Rodin, Le Baiser, deuxième réduction, Bronze, Barbedienne Foundry cast between 1910 and 1918, 59.8 x 36.5 x 37.5 cm

where

the guide

Mystery Mansion The newly opened Mystic Point themed mini-park at Hong Kong Disneyland is the first of its kind in the world, with a set of uniquely created characters and an exciting ride to delight the young and old alike. Everything revolves around quirky art collector cum explorer Lord Henry Mystic and the curious pieces at his Victorian-style private museum. A trackless carriage ride will take parkgoers through 11 different rooms in the Mystic Manor, and when you’ve had enough of the indoors, a “Garden of Wonders” awaits for your photo-taking pleasures. Also enjoy a meal at any of the five differently themed dining areas at the Explorer’s Club restaurant. Hong Kong Disneyland, Lantau Island (closest MTR stop: Sunny Bay), 1830-830.

Art+Antiques | The Guide

From Italy, with Love Admire some Italian art at a restaurant near you. With a similar vision to Le French May (see p.8), the Italian Chamber of Commerce has stitched together a month-long agenda of art fairs, parties and dining specials under the “Made In Italy” title to promote Italian culture in the city. One of them is the Ospitalità Italiana x Art in Hong Kong, which comprises exhibitions of three Italian artists—Francesco Lietti, Elisabetta Roga, Paulfer—at three different Italian restaurants throughout the month. Victoria Wong talks to each artist to find out what inspires them.

Francesco Lietti

Paulfer

Francesco Lietti With a portfolio of wonderful sceneries and landscapes from his travels around the world, Lietti has a clear love of architectural design. “A lot of my paintings are related to travels and places I visited and enjoyed,” Lietti says. “There are many paintings of India, for example, and Southeast Asia. It’s not necessarily just Hong Kong, but I like cityscapes, and Hong Kong has both sides: cityscapes and landscapes. The city is a big inspiration for me.” Abstract artists also inspire Lietti. “I think abstract art is really powerful. I don’t try to understand art, but I feel emotions—it’s the only raw and main thing about art that is most important to me. I like Rothko, and big masters like Van Gogh, and Cezanne. I’ve always liked Cezanne’s use of colors.” May 27 to June 10. Messina il Ristorante, 5/F, The Harbourfront Landmark, 11 Wan Hoi St., Hung Hom. $250 admission, which includes two glasses of wine and canapes.

Elisabetta Rogai The only recognized artist in the world who paints with wine, Elisabetta Rogai has received accolades from all around the world. Having studied organic biology for two years, Rogai has perfected a wine-reduction that serves as the only "paint" she uses in all her paintings: wine is boiled down to create a reduced pigment that is both long-lasting and waterproof. Through washes of wine, Rogai is able to create elegant paintings filled with layers of depth. “Sometimes in Italy we take for granted the beauty and the quality that surround us, and it’s because of this that I am very proud to know that my artworks will give everybody in Hong Kong the chance to have a taste of Italian contemporary art,” says Rogai. “I believe my ‘Wine on Canvas’ speaks a universal language, and the wine that’s used is an innovative means of artistic expression and the pleasures of the senses that belong to it.” Hong Kong residents have been able to admire Rogai’s work at Art Walk as well as Art Basel over the years, and diners will now be able to enjoy her wine paintings while dining at Assaggio restaurant. When: Entire month of June Throughout June. Assaggio Trattoria Italiana, 6/F, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2877-3999.

Elisabetta Rogai

Paulfer Born and raised in the city of Ferrara, Paulfer uses materials collected from the Po River for his art. Having spent his youth along the sides of the river, his collected materials are reminiscent of memories from his childhood. Fascinated by the idea of collaborating with people to decorate residences and workplaces, Paulfer has years of experience making colorful artworks for interiors and office spaces. “A canvas, [acting] as a piece of furniture, could improve the status of the place…making it a small daily pleasure to the observer,” Paulfer says. “I believe that the canvas will slowly become an integral part of the site.” Having travelled to China and Hong Kong several times, Paulfer is no stranger to the art scene in Hong Kong. “I consider Hong Kong a very international city that can represent an opportunity to show my art to a wide audience that can appreciate my unique style, [and] I am expecting an attentive audience who is interested in a mix of modern art and interior design—people [who would want] to feel the Italian art and perceive the emotion that I communicate in my art.” June 18 to 30. Domani Ristorante, 4/F, One Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2111-1197.

Check out www.icc.org.hk for more Made In Italy events.

You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.

18 W HERE H ONG KONG I J UNE 2013

Art+Antiques | The Guide

One Artist, Two Stories The work of late American artist Jean-Michel Basquiat will be featured at two Hong Kong galleries this month. An acclaimed neo-expressionist painter in the 1980s, New York native Jean-Michel Basquiat was best known for creating social-conscientious paintings. Basquiat started out as a graffiti artist in the 70s, when he produced art under the name of SAMO. Incorporating elements such as text, numbers and logos into his works, Basquiat’s paintings touch on social issues such as class struggle and racism. By the time the Brookyn-born talent died of a heroin overdose at the age of 27, he was an internationally renowned artist, musician, and Andy Warhol collaborator. Basquiat’s solo exhibition at Gagosian Gallery features 16 paintings by the artist, and runs till August 10. Gagosian Gallery, 7/F Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555.

Ten of Basquiat’s paper works from the final years of his life are on display at the Ticolat Tamura gallery in Hong Kong for the first time ever, viewable by appointment only. Ticolat Tamura, Room 610, Printing House, 6 Duddell St., Central, 5322-7128.

Basquiat at Gagosian

Antiques

in the Chinoiserie style. Shipping available. Shop 248-9, 2/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-6370, www.altfield.com.hk.

Altfield Gallery

ALTFIELD GALLERY — One of the first galleries to focus on antique Chinese furniture, Altfield holds eight to 10 exhibitions a year. It deals in Southeast Asian sculpture and decorative arts, antique maps and topographical prints relating to Asia, as well as Chinese, Tibetan and Caucasian carpets. Altfield also produces a range of reproduction furniture and accessories 20 W HERE H ONG KONG I J UNE 2013

ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUES — Known as one of the most reliable antique galleries in Hong Kong. Clients have access to both affordable and museum quality collections from Han and Tang dynasties. The three-story shop also houses large collections of Qing dynasty blue and white porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic stone and bronze sculptures and buddhas, and terracotta sculptures from China and South-Eastern Asia are found in the viewing galleries, plus there are over 200 paintings in the extensive ancestral scroll collection. Open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. 70 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848, antiques@archangelantiques.com.hk. ARCH ANGEL GALERIE “V” — This large gallery, just across from Arch Angel Antiques, is a must for collectors and connoisseurs interested in early stone sculpture and 16th to 18th-century Chinese furniture. These fine early examples are shown in original condition and exquisitely reconditioned by an

expert furniture specialist. The gallery owner has been collecting and restoring Chinese furniture since 1985. All items come with certification and unconditional guarantees. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6828, antiques@archangelantiques.com.hk. CHINA ART — This leading restorer and dealer in fine Asian antique furniture and artifacts holds frequent exhibitions and has published two books, “Antiques in the Raw” and “Regional Furniture.” Go to the website to see what’s in stock, then make an appointment to visit the warehouse. Room A-B, 2/F, Casey Aberdeen Center, 20 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 2542-0982, www.chinaart.com.hk. DRAGON CULTURE — Specializes in dinosaur egg fossils, Han Dynasty terracotta, Tang sculptures and Ming porcelain figures. 231 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-8098, www.dragonculture.com.hk. JOYCE GALLERY — Specializing in ancient utensils and sculptures from across China, Joyce displays a collection of antiquities dating to the Tang dynasty, including ancient bronzes, stone carvings, gold and silver ware, jade, and

Art+Antiques | The Guide pottery. It guarantees its descriptions of the period and history of its items and offers a full refund if the purchased item does not match the description. Shop 1, 123 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-1869, www.joycegallery.com.

AGNèS B. LIBRAIRIE GALERIE — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnès b. has a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world. 1/F, 18 Wing Fung St., Wan Chai, 2869-5505, www.agnesb.com. ALISAN FINE ARTS — This well-established gallery has organized more than 100 exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world. Run by respected art-world figure Alice King, who has worked with the Guggenheim Museum, it also mounts exhibitions for overseas venues. 315 Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2526-1091, www.alisan.com.hk.

Lam & Co Antiquities

LAM & CO ANTIQUITIES — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silver ware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offers repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services. 44 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877, www.lamantiquities.com. OI LING ANTIQUES — A renowned dealer in fine Chinese antique furniture and objets d’art, Oi Ling has been featured in major international art exhibitions under the gallery’s previous name, Contes D’Orient. The company operates an outlet in Central, a warehouse in Aberdeen, and a workshop in China where skilled workers restore furniture using traditional techniques. The Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items and sculptures dating as far back as the Neolithic era. Repair, restoration and shipping available. 52 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2964-0554, www.oilingantiques.com. WATTIS FINE ART — Specializes in antique maps of Asia, and historical photographs and prints of China, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia. 2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302, www.wattis.com.hk.

Galleries 10 CHANCERY LANE GALLERY — Focusing on established and emerging international artists, 10 Chancery Lane consists of three large gallery spaces. It holds exhibitions of paintings, photographs, installations and videos, as well as performances by renowned artists. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, SoHo, 2810-0065, www.10chancerylanegallery.com. 5001 Gallery—A young and energetic art gallery, 5001 is dedicated to playing an active part in this new era of Chinese art that is built on 5000 years of history. Collaborating with established and emerging artists, they bring modern and contemporary artworks of diverse media such as painting, sculpture, print, photograph and mix media to the local and international art scene. Main gallery: Suite 44, 8/F, 44 Hollywood Rd., Central. Branch gallery: 1/F, 10 Wellington St., Central, 3483-5001, www.5001gallery.com. 22 W HERE H ONG KONG I J UNE 2013

ARCH ANGEL ART GALLERY — One of Hong Kong’s biggest galleries features an outstanding collection of contemporary Vietnamese oil paintings, acquired directly from the artists. The owners have carefully selected and bought each painting during frequent trips to Vietnam so, contrary to common practice, none of the works are on consignment. Be sure to check out their private stock on nearby Peel Street, featuring a fine collection of 20th-century contemporary paintings from some of Asia’s leading artists. 38 Peel St., Central, 2851-6882, art@archangelart.com.hk. AP Contemporary— AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2148, www.apcontemporary.com. ART BEATUS — Established in the early 1990s, Art Beatus features mainly original paintings and art by contemporary Chinese artists. Most of its collection has a retro slant, and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoon as vehicles for expression. Has branches in Vancouver and on Queen’s Road Central. G/F, 35 Graham St., Central, 2522-1138, www.artbeatus.com. ASIA FINE ART — Dedicated to promoting young Asian artists at affordable prices, this gallery has regular exhibitions of work from China, Vietnam and Burma for sale on site and online. 12 Sik On St., Wan Chai (entrance at 99 Queen’s Rd. East), 2522-0405, www.asia-fineart.com. ASIA SOCIETY HONG KONG — Asia Society Hong Kong's big, brand-spankin’-new headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences—97 percent of which are open to the public—the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. Closed Mondays. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511, www.asiasociety.org/hong-kong. BEN BROWN FINE ARTS — After 10 years at Sotheby’s and two more at a private gallery, Ben Brown and his wife sought to create a space that housed pieces reflective of their tastes—primarily on European modern and

contemporary artworks. 301 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2522-9600, www.benbrownfinearts.com. THE CAT STREET GALLERY — Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the world. 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006, www.thecatstreetgallery.com. CONNOISSEUR ART GALLERY — Specializing in contemporary Chinese fine art since 1989, Connoisseur features such acclaimed artists as Paris-based Jia Juan-li, renowned Guangzhou artist Zhang Da-zhong and still life artist Liu Ying-zhao. Shop G3, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2868-5358, www.connoisseur-art.com. CONNOISSEUR CONTEMPORARY — This contemporary gallery seeks to identify new and emerging talents as well as those deserving of more space and recognition. Expect to find a wide range of genres and styles from around the world. Shop G4, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3521-0300, www.connoisseurcontemporary.com CONTEMPORARY BY ANGELA LI — Perhaps best known for introducing Chinese artists Chen Jiagang and Liao Yibai to the art world, CBAL boasts a lovely space and a carefully curated exhibition program. G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3571-8200, www.cbal.com.hk. DE SARTHE GALLERY — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the U.S. and Europe, de Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896, desarthe.com. ESPACE LOUIS VUITTON — LV has been invading gallery spaces for the past half decade, stirring unrest in the hearts of hard-line art critics but appreciation in the eyes of those beholders who’re able to look past reservations about brand-name commercialism. Espace Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton Mansion, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 8100-1182. GAGOSIAN GALLERY — With 12 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. They opened their doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an all-new exhibition by Damien Hirst—Gagosian only exhibits the crème-de-lacrème of the art world. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555, www.gagosian.com. GALERIE DU MONDE — Galerie du Monde hosts exhibitions by Chinese artists including Li Shuang, Le Longyao, Yu Xiaohui, Hon Chifun and Pan Xun. Its conservation studio provides a complete restoration service for works of art on paper and canvas. Shop 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Center, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529, www.galeriedumonde.com.

Art+Antiques

GROTTO FINE ART — Curated by Henry Auyeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery represents local artists, with an interest in new and avant-garde art forms. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixed-media and installation pieces. 2/F, 31C Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270, www.grottofineart.com. HANART TZ GALLERY — A specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone. 202 Henley Building, 5 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-9019, www.hanart.com. GALERIE KOO — Focusing on contemporary art, Galerie Koo features both western and Chinese emerging and established artists who deliver a variety of contemporary works in media from painting to photography. 1/F, 68-70 Wellington St., Central, 2525-0331, www.galeriekoo.com.

Opera Gallery

Lehmann Maupin Gallery — With the original branch in New York and with its reputation of supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery will be opening its doors here on March 14. Architect Rem Koolhas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Female Korean artist Lee Bul will open with an exhibit featuring paintings and 3D sculptures using all sorts of media and materials. 407 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central.2530-0025, hongkong@lehmanmaupin.com. OPERA GALLERY — Opera Gallery features works by world-famous international artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Renoir and Chinese painter Ting Shao Kuang, among others. 2-8 Wellington St., Central, 2810-1208, www.operagallery.com. Puerta Roja — Puerta Roja was established to promote Latin American art and artists to the Hong Kong audience. Drawings, etchings, glasswork and sculptures are all featured here. Shop A, G/F, Wai Yue Building, 15-17 New St., Sai Ying Pun, 2803-0332. PICTURE THIS — The city’s largest affordable art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children’s rooms, and sporting prints. Suite 1308, 13/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820, www.picturethiscollection.com.

Art+Antiques

PLUM BLOSSOMS GALLERY — Recognized for its exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection of museumquality ancient textiles, Plum Blossoms is an established platform for the promotion of both ancient and modern arts. Shop G6, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2521-2189, www.plumblossoms.com. Red Square Gallery — Red Square Gallery is a window into Contemporary Russian Art. Expanding into four branches, the gallery is dedicated to bringing creative and dynamic artwork to Hong Kong. Shop 2, 1A Wong Nai Chung Rd., Happy Valley. 2838-0040, www.redsquare-gallery.com. Rouge Ephemere—Rouge Ephemere is a new gallery on Hollywood Road by French natives Françoise Thuriere and Yves Azemar, showcasing a selection of artworks which are not commonly found in Hong Kong’s art scene. Japanese raku ceramics, metal and wood sculpture as well as jewelry and vintage prints from international artists such as Christine Cloos, Diane Truti and Maud Lelievre can all be found here. Flat B, 1/F, 89 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2323-2394, www.facebook.com/ RougeEphemere. SAAMLUNG GALLERY — Expect a variety of contemporary works in media from painting to photography by both regional and international artists. 26/F, Two Chinachem Plaza, 68 Connaught Rd. Central, 5181-5156, www.saamlung.com. SHIN HWA GALLERY — Focusing on Asian contemporary art, Shin Hwa features both upcoming and established artists. It is particularly committed to innovative Chinese artists. G/F, 32 Aberdeen St., Central, 2803-7960, www.shinhwagallery.com.

NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT! Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418

www.outback.com.hk

Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823

Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan

Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai

Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay

Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728

24 W HERE H ONG KONG I J UNE 2013

Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918

White Cube

WHITE CUBE — One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first nonUK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials—for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. 50 Connaught Rd. Central, 2592-2000, www.whitecube.com. ZEE STONE GALLERY — Zee Stone, established in 1991, exhibits a wide range of contemporary artists from mainland China, using both ink and color on paper and oil on canvas. The gallery’s exhibitions reflect the rich diversity of contemporary Chinese art, including abstract landscapes, realistic portraits, paintings on rice paper by traditionally trained Chinese masters and new work by a younger generation in acrylic and mixed media. G/F, Chinachem

Art+Antiques

Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2810-5895, www.zeestone.com.

Museums FLAGSTAFF HOUSE MUSEUM OF TEAWARE — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-in-chief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Closed Tue. 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Hong Kong Park, Central, 2869-0690, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG HERITAGE MUSEUM — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. It features permanent exhibitions on the New Territories, Cantonese opera and a Children’s Discovery Gallery. Closed Tue & public holidays. 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188, www.hk.heritage.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF ART — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works, including major traveling exhibitions from world-class museums. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0116, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF HISTORY — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. It’s the reconstruction of a street that really grabs your attention. Closed Tue. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042, www.hk.history.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF MEDICAL SCIENCES — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both Western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Along with a display of herbs and remedies, there is antique apothecary equipment. Closed Mon. 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels, 2549-5123, www.hkmms. org.hk. LAW UK FOLK MUSEUM — Law Uk, which means “Law’s House” after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. It is the sole remaining architectural example of its kind in Chai Wan. Free admission. Closed Thu. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006, www.hk.history.museum. LEI CHENG UK HAN TOMB MUSEUM — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, this is one of the city’s most fascinating monuments. Discovered in 1955, it now has an adjacent gallery that features 58 items excavated during the construction of the Lei Cheng Uk Resettlement Area. Closed Thu. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863, www.hk.history.museum.

JUNE 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 25

dining | The Guide

Spear Season June is the perfect month to indulge in some white asparagus. Leonie Xin Chao-Fong finds out what the fuss is all about. We may be more familiar with its more famous green counterpart, but May and June is white asparagus season, and there’s no better (or other) time to indulge. This delicate veggie is a spring delicacy, and a food connoisseur’s dream. It’s prized throughout Europe, and holds a special place in the hearts of many chefs.

Brasserie on the Eighth

Eating It

Health Food

Generally, white asparagus is not eaten alone but married with a sauce such as the classic French hollandaise, or Italian olive oil, and it’s often served with Parma ham or Parmesan. As a soup it is creamy, sweet and absolutely heavenly, while as a main it’s often served with risotto or alongside meat or fish. According to Café Deco Group’s director of culinary development Angelo McDonnell, white asparagus is one of the first vegetables to be harvested in the year and is annually anticipated by gourmands across the Netherlands, Belgium, France, Germany and Italy. “White asparagus is particularly popular in Europe and is known as one of Germany’s healthiest staple foods. The vegetable is only available for a short period of time, which leaves diners looking forward to the short cultivating season,” says McDonnell.

Not only is white asparagus deliciously divine, it’ll also give you some bonus health points. Low in calories and fat-free, asparagus is also rich in vitamins A and C—as well as an excellent source of antioxidants. The veggie’s high levels of potassium and calcium phosphate make it particularly good for bone structure. According to chef Tamara Mattii from Zeffirino Restaurant, white asparagus is a must-have for pregnant women or those considering getting pregnant. “Apart from containing the same nutrition as green asparagus, white asparagus provides more amino acid and fiber than green asparagus. These two substances are good for pregnant women,” she explains. But not everyone should be rushing to get their white asparagus on—it’s not advised for individuals with gout, cystitis and arthritis.

Sabatini

Brasserie on the Eighth 26 W HERE H ONG KONG june 2013

Hugo’s

dining

Hugo’s

Where to Find it Feeling tempted? Here’s where to find the pale spears this season: Café Deco 1-2/F, The Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-5111. Berliner Shop G18, Olympian City 3, 1 Hoi Wang Rd., Tak Kok Tsui, 2148-5388. Zeffirino 31/F, Regal Hongkong Hotel, 88 Yeo Wo St., Causeway Bay, 2837-1799. Sabatini 3/F, The Royal Garden 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2733-2000. Hugo’s, Lobby Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 37217700. Brasserie on the Eighth 8/F, Conrad Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2521-3838. White asparagus is grown throughout Europe, though tastes vary slightly depending on their home soil. Hugo’s is serving those imported from France, Zeffrino’s asparagus comes from Italy, and Sabatini, Brasserie on the Eighth, and Café Deco are all partaking in the German Spargel-love this month. june 2013 I WH ERE HONG KONG 27

dining | The Guide

Hot Tables

Two new restaurants to watch for.

Ta Pantry

Enomod

Chef Esther Sham has moved her former digs from Wan Chai to North Point in a collaboration project with wine retailer and storage experts Hip Cellar. The new resto has been put together by interior designer Steve Leung and consists of three differently themed private dining areas, each with a table that seats up to 14. On the dining side, Esther— a.k.a. chef Tata—will whip up any of five tasting menus (from American- to Japanesethemed) at around $680 per head.

Newcomer Enomod is a lovely upstairs space in SoHo that offers contempo Mediterranean. It’s just a bright, large-ish hangout with very on-trend furniture (light-colored wood, communal tables). Large barrels of wine that are directly tapped for tipple can be found on the floors, and the décor is homey and comfortable—inspired by Prohibition-era America, apparently. Marinated veggies, herby and citrusy seafood pastas, steaks, and fresh ricotta are all menu highlights.

5/F, Block C, Sea View Estate, 2-8 Watson Rd., North Point, 2979-0108.

1/F, 1-5 Elgin St., Central, 2555-6065.

Enomod

Admiralty DAN RYAN’S — American. $$$ With mammoth meat platters and massive potato skins, Dan Ryan’s prides itself on Chicago-style chow. Shop 114, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2845-4600. METROPOL — Dim sum. $ Beef balls, steamed shrimp dumplings, pork-and-shrimp dumplings, stuffed rice rolls and other Hong Kong specialties are wheeled around in traditional trolleys for an authentic dim sum experience. 3/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty, 2865-1988. NICHOLINI’S — Italian. $$$$ Hands down the best Sunday brunch around. It gets kudos from honest-to-goodness Italians, and that’s good enough for us. 8/F, Conrad International Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2521-3838. PETRUS — French. $$$$ This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The décor is a bit ostentatious, but the opulence suits the magnificent view. 56/F, Island ShangriLa, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2820-8590.

Causeway Bay IPPUDO — Ramen. $ Japan’s famous chain serves ramen in bowls so enormous they should be called cauldrons, with a meaty, savory broth, tender pork pieces, springy noodles and tangy spring onions topped with fungus and bean sprouts. They also have a signature mini BBQ pork bun, which is a little two-bite sandwich of porcine heaven. 2/F, 8 Russell St., 2892-2387. MANGO TREE — Thai. $$-$$$ Somehow, in the middle of bustling Causeway Bay, in a high-rise chock-full of other restaurants and bars, Mango 28 W HERE H ONG KONG june 2013

Tree manages to be an oasis of dim lighting, carefully placed flowers and good Thai food. 5/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-0828. Sorabol — Korean. $$ The smell wafting from the open barbecues in the middle of each table will get your appetite going—which is a good thing, since you’ll want to try everything. 17/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival St., 2881-6823. Tott’s — Modern Asian/Western. $$$-$$$$ Sophisticated décor, harbor-view seats, and perfectly crafted entrees are the hallmark here. The attentive service also deserves special mention. 34/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., 2837-6786. TYCOON (JUI HO HEEN) — Hotpot. $$$-$$$$ You’d think dunking meat into boiling soup couldn’t get too elegant, but this stylish take on the traditional hotpot joint takes it to the next level. The dunkable delicacies are where it really gets fancy—fresh fish, lobster, crab, even Wagyu beef. 20-22 Tang Lung St., 2893-1884.

Central & Lan Kwai Fong AMBER — Modern French. $$$$ Modern, inventive French cuisine meets attentiongrabbing decor. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066. CAPRICE — French. $$$$ Three Michelin Stars. Splurge on haute cuisine at this French restaurant staffed by chefs formerly of Le Cinq in Paris. The gorgeous interior includes floor-toceiling windows. Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8860. FOURTH FLOOR — European. $$$ Innovative restaurant with creative cuisine and funky, contemporary surrounds. The menu is modern European, the wine list classic and the crowd

well dressed. Harvey Nichols, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388. Frites — Belgian. $$$-$$$$ This Belgian beer hall is everything you’d expect—cheerful, beercentric, with high-end pub fare. Roasted meats, stews, mussels and of course the titular frites are all on offer. Shop 1-2, 1/F, Queen’s Palace, 74 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2179-5179. INAGIKU — Japanese. $$$ The Hong Kong branch of one of Japan’s oldest and best-known restaurants, it lives up to the buzz: authentic, delicious and quiveringly fresh. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 2805-0600. ISLAND TANG — Cantonese. $$$$ Shanghai Tang founder David Tang’s art-deco dining space is a welcome bright spot amid Central’s modern office towers, with top local cuisine to match. Shop 222, 2/F, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-9798. ISOLA BAR & GRILL — Italian. $$$$ The glam factor is off the scale, with stunning harbor views and high ceilings, not to mention handmade pastas, pizzas, risottos and more. Shop 3071-75 & 4011, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., 2383-8765. L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON — French. $$$$ The Frenchman named “Chef of the Century” by Gault Millau designs authentic dishes with exquisite finesse and precision, which are then turned out by highly trained chefs in the open kitchen. Shop 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 2166-9000. LIN HEUNG Lau— Cantonese. $$ The setup has changed little in more than 50 years and it still remains a popular hangout for those craving a bit of old Hong Kong nostalgia and really, really good food. Most people come here for daytime dim sum, but dinner’s great too. 160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556.

dining | The Guide LUNG KING HEEN — Cantonese. $$$-$$$$ Three Michelin Stars. The name means “view of the dragon” and the floor-to-ceiling windows make the case. Stylish décor, flawless service and traditional as well as innovative dishes only add to the appeal. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8888. pierre — French. $$$$ Masterminded by threeMichelin-star chef Pierre Gagnaire, this is a bastion of fine French dining. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd., 2825-4001.

THE VERANDAH — Continental/International. $$$ Book brunch in time to get a seat at this popular spot. On other days, the a la carte menu never disappoints. Closed Mon. The Repulse Bay Hotel, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2822.

FELIX — Fusion. $$$$ Still one of the swankiest restaurants in town, with Philippe Starck décor, modern food and famous bathrooms. It’s glam, contemporary and kid-free. 28/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, 2315-3188.

SoHo

FOOK LAM MOON — Cantonese. $$$$ Devotees swear this place serves the best Cantonese cuisine in the world. It’s been the place to go for southern Chinese delicacies for more than five decades. 55 Kimberley Rd., 2366-0286.

JASHAN — Indian. $$ Immediately impressive, with dim lighting, vermilion walls and colonial furnishings, Jashan offers an extensive menu, delicious food and hotel-level service. 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., 3105-5300. LA TERRASSE WINE BAR & RESTAURANT— French. $$$ This small place has all the trappings of fine, intimate dining. The service is attentive, the wine list good and the food outstanding. Closed Sun. 19 Old Bailey St., 2147-2225.

Sevva

SEVVA — Contemporary. $$$$ The brainchild of local socialite Bonnie Gokson, this 22,000-square-foot penthouse restaurant comes with a buzzing wraparound terrace. The elegant eatery serves dishes drawn from Cantonese, Shanghainese, Indian and British culinary concepts. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., 2537-1388. WOOLOOMOOLOO — Australian/New Zealand. $$$ This steakhouse is several places at once: a laid-back wine bar and a casual drinksand-dinner scene on the ground floor, and a fine-dining, open-kitchen restaurant on the first. G/F-1/F, Onfem Tower, 29 Wyndham St., 2894-8010. YELLOW DOOR KITCHEN — Sichuan. $$ Hong Kong’s first private kitchen, this favorite has been serving up fiery Sichuan cuisine since the early 1990s. 6/F, 37 Cochrane St., 2858-6555. ZUMA — Japanese. $$$$ This is one good-looking restaurant, split over two floors and linked by a sumptuous staircase. It’s the local branch of London’s famed eatery, offering a sophisticated twist on the traditional izakaya. 5-6/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3657-6388.

POSTO PUBBLICO — Italian. $$$ Hip Greenwich Village types come to get their fill of such dishes as veal meatballs and “Brooklyn Special” sandwiches of homemade mozzarella, eggplant and lashings of balsamic vinegar. 28 Elgin St., 2577-7160.

Yardbird

YARDBIRD — Yakitori. $$$ This is a no-frills yet achingly modern two-story yakitori joint in a trendy corner of the district. The skewers are all chicken-based, and taken from every part of the chicken’s body from the heart to the skin. Don’t forget to sample the house sake. 33-35 Bridges St., Sheung Wan, 2547-9273.

HuTong

HUTONG — Northern Chinese. $$$$ Dark wood furnishings and a fabulous harbor view make for a modern-day Chinese dining hall. The food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., 3428-8342. MORTON’S OF CHICAGO — Steak. $$$$ With huge slabs of prime, aged beef accompanied by what looks like the winning entries in a hard-fought vegetable show, Morton’s is one of the best steak restaurants in Hong Kong. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., 2732-2343. NOBU — Japanese. $$$$ Mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution, this famous restaurant deserves the hype. Sushi is a must, as is the amazing black cod. 2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2721-1211.

Tsim Sha Tsui

The Peak THE PEAK LOOKOUT — International. $$$ Offering an alfresco terrace with a view of the city, this restaurant features an open, bright and airy environment—more like a mountain lodge than a country club—and excellent fare. 121 Peak Rd., 2849-1000.

Repulse Bay SPICES — Pan-Asian. $$$ Below a glassy highrise, this restaurant is devoted to showcasing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East.” It also offers a fantastic view of the South China Sea and the sandy shores below. Repulse Bay Hotel, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2821. 30 W HERE H ONG KONG june 2013

Spoon

Angelini

ANGELINI — Italian. $$$-$$$$ With Italian native Marco Medaglia at the helm, Angelini serves up unpretentious food, with an emphasis on seafood and ingredients air-freighted from Italy three times a week. Also has a great harbor view. Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., 2733-8750.

SPOON — French. $$$$ Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant has floorto-ceiling windows, a fabulous harbor view and a pick-and-mix menu that gives you room to be creative. InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2256. T’ANG COURT — Cantonese. $$$$ This little gem serves some of the city’s finest Cantonese cuisine. 1/F, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., 2375-1133.

dining

Whisk — Modern European. $$$ Try the innovative, flawlessly presented dishes at this special eatery. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., 2315-5999. YE SHANGHAI — Shanghainese. $$$ With upscale cuisine served in shareable portions, this is the place for Shanghainese dishes such as camphor-smoked duck with pancakes. Also known for its interior full of fabulous chinoiserie. 6/F, The Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, 3 Canton Rd., 2376-3322.

Wan Chai

Bo Innovation

BO INNOVATION — Asian. $$$-$$$$ Experimental cuisine pairing local ingredients with delicacies imported from across the world. Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., 2850-8371.

Cepace

CéPAGE — European. $$$$ There are just 56 seats for maximum privacy—and exclusivity, of course. Dishes are intricately prepared, including their caviar on petals of potato salad with herbs, and their grilled amadai with vin jaune and black truffle. Be warned: Cépage is toe-curlingly expensive, but hey, you might spot a tycoon or two. 23 Wing Fung St., Wan Chai, 2861-3130. Grand Hyatt Steakhouse — Steak. $$$$ This classic steakhouse serves up mouthwatering prime cuts of beef from the US, Canada and Japan, and also boasts a seafood and oyster bar, extensive salad bar, wine room and cigar tasting room. 2/F, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2584-7722. MADAM SIXTY EIGHT — European. $$$ At this posh eclectic eatery, an open kitchen faces the diners, with chefs readying exquisitely prepared dishes scurrying around. 1/F, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-2558. THE PAWN — British. $$$ Serving fabulous food in a faithful restoration of an 1888 landmark building, The Pawn houses a bar and a restaurant with a roof and a breezy balcony overlooking Johnston Road. The menu has modern British fare with a luxurious twist. 62 Johnston Rd., 2866-3444. 32 W HERE H ONG KONG june 2013

Taste of the city special advertising section

Spice features the

Enjoy a COMPLIMENTARY DESSERT with this ad

“Bollywood and Belly Dance Night’’,

a regular performance by two belly dancers, held every Thursday at 8:30pm .

* for dine-in and a la carte menu only We provide fine Thai, Indian and Malay cuisine with good selection of fine wines. Come experience our flavours of coriander, cumin, chili and lemongrass. Spice up your evening with friends!

Our chefs have also come up with a special menu to swing and sway to the diners’ delight of this groovy atmosphere.

www.spice-restaurant.hk 2/F, No.1 Knutsford Terrace, Tsim Sha Tsui, Tsim Sha Tsui Kowloon. Reservations: 2191 9880 / 2191 9886 Daily Opening Hours: Lunch: Mon – Sun 12nn – 3pm Dinner: Sun – Thu 6pm – 11pm Fri – Sat 6pm – 11:30pm

june 2013 I WH ERE HONG KONG 33

BARS & CLUBS

To get listed on this page, email advertising@asia-city.com.hk or call 2850-5678.

Stop a

Stop b

Bacar Barca is buzzing and busy with unpretentious food, wine and service at very competitive prices. It is popular with HK regulars who like to stand next to the escalator with wine in hand and people-watch. G/F, 2 Shelley St., SoHo, 2521-8322

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L’etage With the feel of a true gentlemen’s club, this is a place for refined Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a taditionally made cocktail.

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33-35 Staunton St., Central 2522 5300

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Iberico & Co. It is designed by award-winning designer Kinney Chan, offers something completely unique to SoHo customers – an airy, spacious and somewhat grand interior with an unpretentious gastro bar feel. G/F, 18 Shelley St., SoHo, 2752-8811

34 W HERE H ONG KONG June 2013

Enoteca on Elgin Enoteca on Elgin opened its doors in 2005 and remains busy and buzzing almost six years on. This narrow 60-seat Mediterranean tapas and wine bar is so popular with locals and tourists that reservations are a must. G/F, 47 Elgin St., SoHo, 2525-9944

BARS & CLUBS Stop C

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Cicada Cicada is the first wine bar and restaurant in Hong Kong to dedicate itself entirely to “Asian Tapas”. It’s intention is for guests to sample a wide array of dishes and flavors from all over the region in a contemporary, Asian inspired, city wine bar. G/F, 4 Shelley St., SoHo, 2521-8188

Angel’s Share

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Lyndhurst Terrace

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golden liquid here to suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 hollywood Rd., Central 2805-8388

From Scotland, to Japan, there’s enough aged

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Specifically designed for whisky-lovers.

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The Blck Brd

Le Boudoir

This Chilled- out spot has an official “no

This Francophone hangout is all sultry

loud music” policy, making it the

drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery.

perfect place for a few low-key drinks.

The cocktails are stellar, too.

The out door terrace is a serene place

B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central 25303807

to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central 2545 8555

june 2013 I WH ERE HONG KONG 35

nightlife | The Guide

In With the New Molecular cocktails, pisco sours—you name it, and one of these new Hong Kong watering holes is probably serving it.

Common Room A brand-new gastropub on Wo On Lane, Common Room boasts molecular mixologists behind the bar serving up glitzy cocktails. The menu is full of romantically named tipples. Picks include the Young and Beautiful—fresh mango and lemon juice, ginger root and homemade vanilla syrup, all topped off with vodka; and the Basil Breeze, a summery drink of gin and Malibu plus pineapple, lime and basil. Most cocktails fall at the $100-130 mark. The décor is best described as rustic chic, with plenty of wood and dim lighting. 1/F, Wo On Building, 8-13 Wo On Lane, Central, 2525-3599.

The Roger Room Taking its cue from sister restaurant Chicha, the Peruvian-themed Roger Room has put their eggs in the pisco basket. While the Pisco Sour here is still the star of the show, check out the menu’s “Classic and Rogered” section and try out the other pisco varieties on offer. The Pisco Punch mixes the namesake base with fresh ingredients like pineapple, orange and lime along with pineapple syrup. Thirsty for more? The Girl From Lima, a smoothie-like drink made with avocado pulp and fresh lime, is finished off with a chili-ful dusting of Tajín spice along the rim. There’s also the Jolly Roger, with pisco, berries, fresh lime, fresh chili and Cava. G/F, 39 Peel St., Central, 2561-3336.

La Cabane

Caprice Bar

Origin

All the wines served at this wine bar and bistro are organic, so vino lovers and healthy types (as well as a combination of the two) will find plenty to their liking. Sourced from France, Greece, Spain and Italy, a bottle will set you back from around $200.

Three-Michelin-star restaurant Caprice recently revamped its adjoining bar, complete with a mouthwatering selection of wines and cheeses. The restaurant’s award-winning wine list certainly doesn’t disappoint—it is the Four Seasons, after all. You can go for wine pairings with cheese, champagne by the glass, or a bottle or two to share. Wines include the chardonnay Meursault Les Tessons Dom M. Bouzereau, which will cost you about $230 per glass.

Mixologist Antonio Lai stands proudly at the helm at Origin, delivering some of the most innovative takes on gin in town. Using its own in-house rotary evaporator, Lai produces gin infused with an assortment of flavors, ranging from Earl Grey and cucumber to lemongrass— and even ginseng. Of course, if you’re simply after good ol’ fashioned gin with a splash of tonic, then you’ll also find 40 other gins in stock, from vintage bottles of Gordon’s to London hipster upstart Sipsmith’s.

62 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2776-6070.

6/F, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8860.

G/F, 48 Wyndham St., Central, 2668-5583.

For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at most bars, restaurants and coffee shops).

36 W H ERE H ONG KONG I j une 2013

nightlife | The Guide Bars & Clubs

COCKY BAR — The name is simply the bar’s way of boasting that it’s a top spot to grab a cocktail. Arguably true, since it has a stunning alfresco balcony overlooking the glittering harbor. 18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-6222. DRAGON BAR — The kitschy-chic bar sits betwixt the equally droll west and east dining rooms, and looks like an exotic dive in 70s London Chinatown. Hullet House, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3988-0101.

Angel’s Share

ANGEL’S SHARE — This unique drinking loft is specifically designed for whisky-lovers. Sourced from Scotland, to Japan, there’s enough aged golden liquid here to suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-8388. AQUA spirit — For cocktails with a killer view, you can do no better than this swanky high-rise venue with an eagle’s eye view of the harbor. 30/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. Azure — Stunning view, minimalist blue décor and great cocktails. 29/F, LKF Hotel, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 3518-9330.

DRAGON-I — Watch the bold and the beautiful work the celeb-studded room. It’s usually packed with models, especially on Wednesday nights. UG/F, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 3110-1222. EXECUTIVE BAR — So quiet the sound of a ninja’s sword slicing through silk would be cause for shushing. Well, not really, but it is quiet, Japanese and well stocked with Scotch— the drink of the introspective man. 27/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 2893-2080. GRAPPA’S CELLAR — This bustling after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians. B/F, Jardine House, Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322.

M BAR — Set against the heights of Hong Kong’s skyline, the Mandarin Oriental’s M Bar makes for a ravishingly chic hangout. Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4850. Martini BAR — This stylish hotel bar has nightly entertainment, a range of cocktails beyond just martinis and is one of the few cigar lounges in town. The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2733-2995. Lion Rock — Lion Rock is the place to unwind and relax while having one (or more) of 193 signature cocktails. Enjoy the awesome view and weekly wine and whisky tastings. 3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel,193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Kowloon, 2622-6167. MCSORLEY’S ALE HOUSE — Woody, Irish and vaguely Victorian, McSorley’s is the biggest pub in SoHo. 55 Elgin St., SoHo, 2522-2646. MO BAR — The bar at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental is a sleek, upscale addition to the nightlife scene. The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, Central, 2132-0077. Ozone — Located 118 floors above the ground, this watering hole boasts a superlative title: the highest bar in Hong Kong. This nightspot is a must-see, especially due to its drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2263.

Beijing Club — This impressive megaclub recently celebrated its fourth anniversary and is the biggest in town. Expect wet-look vinyl walls, gold-plated bathrooms and a youthful crowd. 2-3/F & 5/F, Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington St., Central, 2526-8298. Blckbrd — This chilled-out spot has an official “no loud music” policy, making it the perfect place for a few low-key drinks. Located on the sixth floor, the outdoor terrace is a serene place to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2545-8555.

attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166.

Jaa Bar

BLUE BAR — The upscale Blue Bar is a big hit with the cocktail set. Yes, the martinis are worth getting dressed up for. Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8330.

Jaa Bar — Located in a small alleyway off of Peel Street, Jaa Bar combines comfort and charm for an exclusive experience. The centerpiece of the ornate enclave is a custom-made wooden bar pieced together from classical furniture pieces. 1 Pak Tsz Lane, Central, 2815-8887.

Café Gray Deluxe — Beside the seductively stretched bar are cozy booths for intimate lounging, and its 49th-floor perch guarantees breathtaking harbor views. Cocktail lovers should try the Hong Kong Highball. 49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106.

KEE CLUB — A good concierge should be able to get you into this exclusive members-only club, where you can sip a cocktail and check out the Picassos, antiques and colonial-style service. 6/F, 32 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9000.

RED BAR — Located on a terrace atop IFC Mall, this funky destination bar has a breathtaking public outdoor area with harbor views. 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882.

Central Wine Club — This exclusive spot on Wyndham Street was designed with oenophiles in mind. Luxe, modern Baroque surrounds keep pace with the slow jazz and contemporary tunes. 3/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2147-3448.

L’etage — With the feel of a true gentlemen’s club, this is a place for refined Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a traditionally made cocktail in one hand and a cigar in another. It’s worth coming back just to watch head bartender Katsuhisa Hirakawa hand-carve spheres of ice for whisky. 33-35 Staunton St., Central, 2522-5300.

RIEDEL ROOM — The world’s first Riedel Room offers exclusive wines to be enjoyed in Riedel crystal glassware. JW Marriott Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2841-3836.

CLUB@28 — This stylish bar has killer views, deadly cocktails and its very own outdoor oasis called The Pavilion. It’s members only, but you can join on arrival and it’s free. 28/F, Crowne Plaza Hotel, 8 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 3980-3300.

LE BOUDOIR — This Francophone hangout is all sultry drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery. The cocktails are stellar, too. B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central, 2530-3870.

38 W H ERE H ONG KONG I j une 2013

LILY — VIPs are buzzed in and out of Lily’s fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. The aesthetes amongst you will be delighted that so much

Red Bar

Sake Bar Ginn — Sake sommelier Ayuchi Momose is behind this upper-floor bar. In addition to serving 100 types of sake and Japanese tapas, she also imports special sakes by microbreweries. Shop 4C, 4/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2536-4355. Salon de Ning — Decadent Shanghai art deco lounge with live music Mon-Sat. B/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-3355.

nightlife

SHORE — A chill outdoor space and one of the most extensive drinks selection in town. Newly renovated. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2915-1638. Staunton’s — Popularly considered the best “people-watching spot” in Hong Kong, Staunton’s has the right equation for a chill evening drink. It also has an eclectic menu. 10-12 Staunton St., Central, 2973-6611. SUGAR — Sink into one of the sofas at this swanky rooftop bar and enjoy the amazing views of the harbor. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Tai Koo, 3968-3968.

The Lawn

The Lawn — This outdoor garden is a genuine urban oasis, exuding a serene, intimate vibe and illuminated entirely by a few candles. 6/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. THE PAWN — The modern British restaurant and bar, a former pawn shop, has an outdoor balcony from which to enjoy a view of Hong Kong’s 100-year-old trams. 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444. The Tonno — This complex features a bar, a clubbing zone, a restaurant, a live music lounge and karaoke rooms, taking “all-around entertainment” to a whole new level. Head here for an epic marathon of dancing, drinking, Elton John hits, dart games and Shanghainese buns. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.

Vibes

VIBES — This is the Mira hotel’s svelte venue for drinks, with a stunning secret garden. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-1111. VOLAR — Frequented by models and wannabes, Volar can be exclusive, but you can dance the night away to top DJs. B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510. WOOLOOMOOLOO — This steakhouse outlet boasts a gorgeous rooftop with stunning views of Victoria Harbour and the Happy Valley horse racing track. 31/F, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960. june 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 39

ShopS+Services | The Guide

Fluffy Stuff Designer Allison Tang is the brains behind local trinkets brand Littleclouds. From taxi-shaped pendants to majhong-tile keychains, Tang’s products make the perfect take-home souvenirs. She talks to Leonie Xin Chao-Fong about her inspirations and her favorite places to shop.

Where: Where did the idea for Littleclouds come about? Allison Tang: Well it’s been a very slow and organic process! During my last year of university, where I studied illustration and design, we were asked to organize and sell products at an art and design fair. Part of my course included printmaking so I made all sorts of random products with my illustrations, some printing and sewing, and surprisingly I made a decent amount of money. More significantly though, I got such a buzz from it; I guess the addiction just grew from there. My brand name came much later, and is a translation of my Chinese name of Siu Wan (literally, “little clouds”). W: How did you become involved with jewelry and homeware design? AT: I was born and brought up in the south of England, but have been in this wonderful city for four years now after wanting some adventure and sun. With time, my little hobby grew after university, and I started selling on Etsy and design fairs around London. I started taking everything more seriously after people began to show real interest.

W: You’ve just released a Hong Kong-themed collection. AT: I think in Hong Kong there is so much of a focus on luxury international labels that I wanted to make a range that was very local in a relaxed and fun way. There is so much more respect for anything made in Europe, America or say, Japan, regardless of how good the actual product is, and I think that is a shame. In other places, buying locally is something to be proud of! I really do feel this city is very special. It is not perfect, but my list of pros outweigh the cons, and this collection is my own way of celebrating the quirks of Hong Kong. I hope it can bring out some pride in the people who wear or even view my pieces. W: What inspires you? AT: The enjoyment of small things

or moments: humor, fond memories, color, silliness, texture, as well as words and sayings. W: What plans do you have for your next collection? AT: I’m working on a floral-themed jewelry collection right now that I’m quite excited about. There will be flowers involved, but it won’t be in a girly frou-frou style, as I like to design stuff that I would wear or use and I’m not a frilly type of girl.

Say Where?

Here are some of Tang’s favorite shops: Uniqlo

G/F, B1 & B2, Lee Theatre, 99 Percival St., Causeway Bay, 2577-5811. Marks & Spencer

W: What sort of outfits would you pair your jewelry with? AT: If the piece is quite colorful and bold or detailed, then I’ll pair it with something simpler. If it is something more aesthetically subtle, then I would team it up with something more elaborate in cut or style so both complement each other. W: Where do you like to shop for clothing and accessories in Hong Kong? AT: I’m actually not the biggest fan of shopping. My attention span is short and my patience wears thin in crowds and noise! I get a lot of accessories from indie sellers at the design fairs here, like the Jockey Club Creative Arts Centre, Design Mart and Handmade Hong Kong. The prices are always affordable, and you feel good about paying directly to the maker; it’s a simple and honest transaction. For clothes, I usually shop online at places like ASOS marketplace, Topshop and Etsy, although I do like Uniqlo and Marks & Spencer for their basics. Tang’s quirky creations can be found at Daydream Nation (2/F, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2817-6313) and from late June onwards, at Konzepp (LG/F, 50 Tung St., Sheung Wan, 2803-0339). Alternatively, check out her online shop at www.littleclouds.com.

Design Mart

www.hkdesigncentre.org. Handmade Hong Kong,

www.handmadehongkong.com. ASOS

www.asos.com.

Central Tower, 22-28 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2923-7972.

Topshop

Jockey Club Creative Arts Centre

Etsy

30 Pak Tin St., Shek Kip Mei, 2353-1311.

www.etsy.com.

www.topshop.com.

Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.

40 W HERE H ONG KONG I j une 2013

ShopS+Services | The Guide Shopping Centers

Retail Therapy A stylish lifestyle store and a fashion-forward boutique are two of Hong Kong’s hottest new shops.

APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. Millennium City 5, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 2267-0500. ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous roof garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234. HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8601.

Francfranc Founded in the early 90s in Japan, Francfranc has become synonymous with modern and colorful home decor. To celebrate its 10th year in Hong Kong, the Japanese lifestyle brand has launched a new store at iSquare, as well as a summer line, “Les Vacances de Francfranc,” that emphasizes laid-back, Mediterranean vibes. Recognizing the importance of comfort in home furnishings, Francfranc combines contemporary designs with a practical spin. The Mediterranean line features an array of turquoise, green and white products, with rustic prints and mosaic designs that err on the simpler side.

You’ll find everything from basic picture frames, to complete living room sets. The iSquare location looks like the home you wish you had. There’s enough open space to avoid knocking things over, and plenty of showroom setups that intrigue and inspire you to mix-andmatch. Minimalist white walls are offset by colorful fabrics, furniture and accessories. When can we move in? 1/F, Shop 101-102, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3102-0730.

HYSAN PLACE — This brand-new mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of dining options. 500 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222. IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international high-end brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308. HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau. ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay. THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols. 12-16 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2921-2199.

Daydream Nation Kay and Jing Wong, the brother-andsister duo behind Daydream Nation, continue to lead Hong Kong’s fashion scene with their dreamy, fantasy-like designs. The homegrown designer brand—the pair studied at Central St. Martins and started out in London, but they now operate out of Hong Kong—is now stocked in the coolest stores all over the world, from Japan, Korea and France to the UK and the Middle East.

42 W HERE H ONG KONG I j une 2013

The designers aim to tell stories through their clothes, so expect elements of folk tales, whimsical animals, ethereal fabrics and unexpected textures and color. This year’s spring/summer collection sees plenty of clashing patterns on asymmetrical cuts, owl and cat graphic prints, capes and ruffles— much of it in bright neon yellow, fuchsia and tomato red. Shop 3-4, 1/F, K11 Select, 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2177-7208.

LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mongkok, 3520-2800, www.langhamplace.com.hk. LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 18 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-2166, www.leegardens.com.hk.

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ShopS+Services | The Guide accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876, www.god.com.hk. Rise Shopping Arcade — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui. SPY Henry Lau — Edgy and bold fashion for men and women. 1/F, 5 Cleveland St., Causeway Bay, 2317-6928, www.spyhenrylau.com. Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place

PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8988. PRINCE’S BUILDING — Part of the “Centers of Central” shopping hub, Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkway to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uberfashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket. 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2921-2194. One Peking ROAD — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier. 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 16-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket City’super, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.

Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist. Shop 209, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-0238. Walter Ma — Well-established designer offering luxury fashion. 33 Sharp St. East, Causeway Bay, 2838-7655. Western Market — An Edwardian-styled building with restaurants and shops selling Chinese crafts and fabrics. 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan.

Department Stores Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant— the Fourth Floor—and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388, www.harveynichols.com. JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2810-1120; 334 Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944.

Shops, Boutiques and Local Designers

Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men. The Landmark, 12-16 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2104-7934, www.blancdechine.com.

G.O.D.

G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home 44 W HERE H ONG KONG I j une 2013

THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freestanding boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-0842.

Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. 1/F, Star House, 3 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-4061. YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 143-161 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2739-3888.

Tailors DAVID FASHION — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884.

ADOREÉ — Popular lingerie boutique selling fashionable, international brands. Rm 604, 6/F, Commerical House, 35 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3101-0188, www.adoree.com.hk. Amours Antiques — Antique jewelry and vintage clothes. 45 Staunton St., Central, 2803-7877.

The Swank

LA ELITE FASHION — G/F, 1H Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-0040.

Lane Crawford

LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with must-have designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388. SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The brand-new flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333. SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.

L & K Custom Tailor — G/F, Mirador Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278. Nita Fashion — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-9990, www.nitafashions.com. Punjab House — 5/F, Suite C, Golden Crown Court, 66-70 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612, www.punjabhouse.com.hk. Raja Fashion — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624, www.raja-fashions.com. REGAL fashion — LG/F, Shop 8-9, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-6007. Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423. Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1287.

Navigate | The Guide

Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call their Visitor Hotline (25081234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www. discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.

Get Moving

Octopus Cards

Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.

These are “wave-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems, and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.

Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.

The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $70, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Tourist Octopus” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.

Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.

46 W HERE H ONG KONG I june 2013

Navigate | The Guide

Hanging Out in Tai Hang Quirky dessert shops and comfy cafes abound in Tai Hang.

Classified

Lab Made

Papabubble

Tai Hang, just south of busy shopping district Causeway Bay, is nowadays a veritable foodie heaven—not to mention a great snapshot of the hipster-friendly side of Hong Kong. Nestled between car repair shops and compact residential buildings are scores of independent cafes, dessert shops and bars that offer everything from handmade candy to liquid nitrogen icecream. Take a stroll through this district to appreciate a quirkier side of the city.

Lab Made Lab Made is the first shop of its kind in Hong Kong, selling -196 degrees Celsius liquid nitrogen-frozen ice-cream that’s made to order and available in every flavor imaginable. The ice-cream has a smooth and creamy texture, and comes in apple crumble, Hong Kongstyle crispy toast and other innovative varieties. Despite being relatively new to the scene, Lab Made has become one of the hottest hangouts in Tai Hang—don’t miss it if you want a refreshing treat. 6, Brown St., Tai Hang, 2670-0071.

C'est La B

Classified

C'est La B

With soft jazz tinkling in the background and laid-back wooden furniture, Classified is the perfect place to relax with a book in hand. This casual resto— which has eight branches across the city—serves everything from handmade breads and specialty cheeses to gourmet coffee and boutique wine.

This neighborhood cake café is one of Hong Kong socialite Bonnae Gokson’s many desserts ventures. Try the signature Madame Butterfly sponge, or the multi-textured “Better Than Sex” chocolate cake. C’est la B’s stylish yet comfy environment makes it an ideal spot for a posh tea break.

Shop ABC, G/F, China Tower, 1-9 Lin Fa Kung St. West, Tai Hang, 2857-3454.

Shop 3, G/F, 110-114 Tung Lo Wan Rd., Tai Hang, 2806-8168.

Fresh Gourmet

Papabubble

Fresh Gourmet specializes in wine and cheese/ham pairings—what’s not to like? Choose from a wide range of wines from small vineyards in France to go along with Ibérico ham from Spain and French cheeses.

The first Papabubble store was established in Hong Kong after owner Ammy Ho trained in candy-making in the original shop in Barcelona, alongside her brother and a co-worker. Ho’s candies are made by first boiling sugar with water, then adding colorings and flavorings. Finally, the mixture is rolled into a thick pillar of sugar before being shrunk and cut into minuscule forms. Sweets are customizable to suit customers’ tastes.

G/F, 28 Shepherd St., Tai Hang, 2808-0840.

Zanzo This chic Japanese tapas bar stands out from the crowd by offering sake cocktails as well as its own private label sake. Pair the drinks with snacks like grewed skewers, seaweed chips, or even a bulky bowl of fried udon. 15-16 School St., Tai Hang, 2750-6490.

48 W HERE H ONG KONG I june 2013

Fresh Gourmet

34 Tung Lo Wan Rd., Tai Hang, 2367-4807.

Navigate

Buses Hong Kong has two major bus companies: Kowloon Motor Bus — www.kmb.hk, 2745-4466. citybus / New World First BUS — www.nwfb.com.hk, 2136-8888.

Sights & Attractions

Avenue of Stars

AVENUE OF STARS — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes’ hand- and footprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars, along with a statue of martial artist Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly Symphony of Lights. Music plays over loudspeakers here and nowhere else, although the light display can be seen from around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront. BANK OF CHINA TOWER — I. M. Pei designed this 70-story building and bank headquarters to resemble stalks of bamboo. 1 Garden Rd., Central. BIG BUDDHA (大佛) — The world’s biggest Buddha of its kind took 10 years to build and sits on a lotus throne atop Lantau Island. The 200+ steps to the top are open from 10am to 5:30pm daily and definitely recommended for the spectacular mountain views. Special admission tickets are available and include a vegetarian meal. Also check out the nearby Po Lin Monastery. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and then bus 23 to Ngong Ping. CHI LIN NUNNERY—An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It’s a 33,000-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1998. It’s centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds. Vegetarian food is available. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888. CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE — Finished in time to host the handover ceremony in July 1997, the center’s roof was designed to look like a seagull’s wings in flight. 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, 2582-8888. HONG KONG DISNEYLAND—Take a trip back to the 1900s on Main Street, catch a train to Fantasyland, float down the Rivers of june 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 49

Navigate | The Guide

Adventure, catch a show or blast through outer space in Tomorrowland. When you’re done charting your exotic surroundings take a moment to dine, shop or cavort with the various Disney characters who roam the park. It’s easy to get to via MTR, bus or car. See the website for transportation details. Lantau Island, 1-830-830, park. hongkongdisneyland.com. Hong Kong Dolphinwatch — Catch a glimpse of the pink dolphins, an animal so unique to these waters that it was named the official mascot of Hong Kong’s 1997 handover. Tours depart every Wed, Fri and Sun from the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Central at 8:30am, and the Kowloon Hotel in Tsim Tsa Tsui at 9am. The cruise takes up to three hours, and if no dolphins are seen, the company provides a free “go-again guarantee.” $320 for adults, $160 for children under 12 years, with proceeds going to dolphin research. Call 2984-1414 or visit www.hkdolphinwatch.com.

Sam’s The Man (Just ask his customers)

Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon. Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147

HONG KONG ZOOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL GARDENS — Home to eight endangered species, the zoo successfully breeds rare birds and orangutans. Established in 1864, the park retains all the Victorian accents from that era and is an idyllic spot in the middle of the city. Admission free. Open daily 6am-7pm. Garden Rd., Central. A staircase from Upper Albert Rd. leads to the main entrance.

MTR to Tung Chung Station and walk two minutes to the cable-car terminal. OPEN-TOP BUS TOUR — One Big Bus day tour ticket includes 24 hour hop-on-hop-off access to the red tour (Hong Kong Island) and the blue tour (Kowloon), as well as prerecorded commentary in eight languages and other perks. Unit 501, 5/F, No.1 Minden Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2723-2108. PEAK TRAM AND VICTORIA PEAK — The world’s steepest funicular railway hauls passengers up Victoria Peak in approximately eight minutes. Once at the top, enjoy panoramic views of the city, or check out the restaurants, shops and various attractions at the Peak Galleria and Peak Tower. The tram runs daily 7am-midnight, tickets $25 one-way, $36 round trip. Bus No. 15C runs between Peak Tram lower terminus and Central, near the Star Ferry. It costs $4.20 for a single journey. Garden Road and Cotton Tree Drive, 2522-0922. PO LIN MONASTERY — Translated as “Precious Lotus,” Po Lin on Lantau Island was established in 1917 and is popular for day trippers who come to marvel at its 80-foot-tall seated Big Buddha. Temple open 10am-6pm, Buddha 10am-5:30pm, restaurant 11:30am-4:30pm. Free entry. Take bus No. 2, marked “Po Lin Monastery,” from Silvermine Bay (Mui Wo). Ngong Ping, Lantau Peak, Lantau Island, 2985-5248. Ferries for Mui Wo on Lantau depart from pier No. 6 near the Central Star Ferry Terminal. SIK SIK YUEN WONG TAI SIN TEMPLE — This active Buddhist temple is large and colorful with beautiful adjoining gardens. Have your fortune told by palm readers in the main arcade. Open 7am-5:30pm. A small donation is expected. Follow signs from Wong Tai Sin MTR stop. 2328-0270.

Man Mo Temple

MAN MO TEMPLE (文武廟) — This temple was built in 1847 to honor the God of Literature, Man Cheong, and the God of War, Mo Tai. A grade-1 historical building, it is one of biggest tourist attractions in Central. Star Ferry

STAR FERRY (天星小輪) — Cross Victoria Harbour between Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon Peninsula on the Star Ferry. These open-deck ferries are one of Hong Kong’s most recognizable attractions and a common, cheap—and pleasant—form of transportation. Take the MTR to Central or Tsim Sha Tsui and follow the signs. Ngong Ping 360

NGONG PING 360 — Home to a theater, teahouse, nature center, cultural themed village and more, Ngong Ping 360 is best known for its 5.7-kilometer cable-car service that offers panoramic views of Lantau Island’s lush valleys, the South China Sea and the world-famous Tian Tan Buddha. Take the 50 W HERE H ONG KONG I june 2013

ST. JOHN’S CATHEDRAL (聖約翰座堂) — A beautiful cathedral built in the shape of a cross. Open daily from 7am to 6pm for quiet prayer and meditation. Take the MTR to Central.

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TEN THOUSAND BUDDHAS MONASTERY — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800 Buddhas stored in five temples, four pavilions and a nine-story pagoda. The one that you’re likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin MTR, Exit B, 2691-1067, www.10kbuddhas.org. TAI O — This charming fishing village is a maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the very tip of Lantau Island. It’s a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, the picturesque Tin Hau Temple and a couple of interesting little museums. Take a ferry from Central.

Embassies & Consulates Argentina 2523-3208; Australia 2827-8881; Bangladesh 2827-4278; Belgium 2524-3111; Brazil 2525-7002; Canada 3719-4700; Chile 2827-1826; China (China Travel) 2853-3888; Columbia 2545-8547; Czech Republic 28022212; Egypt 2827-0668; Finland 2525-5385; France 3752-9900; Germany 2105-8788; Greece 2774-1682; India 2528-4028; Israel 2821-7500; Italy 2522-0033; Japan 2522-1184; Korea 2529-4141; Laos 2544-1186; Malaysia 2821-0800; Mexico 2511-3305; Netherlands 2522-5127; New Zealand 2525-5044; Pakistan 2827-1966; Philippines 2823-8500; Peru 2868-2622; Poland 2840-0779; Russia 28777188; Singapore 2527-2212; Spain 2525-3041; Sweden 2521-1212; Switzerland 2522-7147; Taiwan (Chung Hwa Travel Service) 2530-1187; Thailand 2521-6481; Turkey 2572-1331; United Arab Emirates 2866-1823; United Kingdom 2901-3000; USA 2523-9011; Venezuela 2730-8099; Vietnam 2591-4510.

Financial Matters Generally, business hours are weekdays 9am-5pm, with a lunch hour from 1pm-2pm, and Saturdays 9am-1pm. The local currency is the Hong Kong dollar. There is no central mint; instead, notes are issued by three separate private banks and the city’s Monetary Authority. The Hong Kong dollar is pegged to the US dollar at a rate of approximately US$1 to HK$7.79. Denominations include $10, $20, $50, $100, $500 and $1,000 notes. Coins come in denominations of 10, 20 and 50 cents, and one, two, five and 10 dollars. BANKS — Major banks are open weekdays 9am4:30pm, and Saturdays 9am-12:30pm. Banks are closed Sundays and public holidays. Some services, such as foreign exchange-related transactions, are not available at banks one hour before closing. The following details are for the banks’ main offices, call for retail locations: Bank of America, Bank of America Tower, 12 Harcourt Rd., Central, 2847-5588; Citibank, Citibank Tower, 3 Garden Rd., Central, 2868-8888; HSBC, 29 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2233-3000; Standard Chartered Bank, 4 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2868-2154.

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Walking Tours | The Guide

A Walk Through Time Follow this tour of Central’s Garden Road to experience Hong Kong’s colonial past come to life, as well as some greenery within the urban jungle.

Y Start at the Admiralty MTR station, Exit C1, and follow the signs to Hong Kong Park/Island Shangri-La Hotel. The park is opposite the upper mall entrance. Walk through the entrance, follow the path and you’ll see Flagstaff House on your right.

Flagstaff House (Museum of Tea Ware) Flagstaff House was built in 1846 and was originally the office and residence of the commander of the British Forces. It is the oldest existing Western building in Hong Kong. Free admission. Y Follow the directional signs inside the park to Rawlinson House (Park Management Office and Cotton Tree Drive Marriage Registry).

Rawlinson House Listed as a Grade II historic building, it was built in the early 20th-century as a residence for the deputy commander of the British Forces. Y Walk up along Cotton Tree Drive. Turn right to the Lower Peak Tram Terminus when you pass the Hong Kong Squash Centre. 52 W HERE H ONG KONG I June 2013

Peak Tram The Peak Tram has been in operation since 1888, taking people up an incline so steep that buildings appear to lean at a 45-degree angle. Open 7am-midnight daily. Y Walk along Garden Road to the Helena May Building.

Zoological & Botanical Gardens

Hong Kong Zoological & Botanical Gardens This is an oasis of beautiful gardens with more than 1,000 species of plants and a zoo with monkeys, birds and snakes. Y Walk along Upper Albert Road to the Central Government Offices.

The Helena May Building

Government House

Currently a hostel for women, this structure was built in 1914 and was occupied by Japanese troops during World War II. Open Mon-Sat, 9am-11pm (except public holidays).

Currently the residence and office of the Chief Executive of Hong Kong, this building is a mixture of European and Japanese architectural styles that reflect its colonial and military past.

Y St. Joseph’s Church is located next

Y Walk along Upper Albert Road to the

to the Helena May building.

Central Government Offices.

St. Joseph’s Church

Central Government Offices

St. Joseph’s Church, built in 1871, survived the onslaughts of both World War II and numerous typhoons. It was demolished and rebuilt in the mid-20th century.

Completed in 1957 by the British colonial government, it houses most major offices of the Hong Kong government.

Y Cross Garden Road via the footbridge

St. John’s Cathedral.

to get to the Hong Kong Zoological & Botanical Gardens.

Y Walk along Garden Road to

St. John’s Cathedral The oldest surviving western ecclesiastical building in Hong Kong. Built in 13th-century gothic-style, construction was completed in 1849. Open 7am-6pm daily. Y Just beyond St. John’s Cathedral is the Former French Mission Building (The Court of Final Appeal).

Former French Mission Building The former French Mission Building, currently the Court of Final Appeal, was built in 1917 in neo-classical style. It’s not open to the public. Y Walk back to Garden Road via Battery Path, and down to the Bank of China Tower.

Bank of China Tower This 70-story, prism-like structure is the work of renowned ChineseAmerican architect I. M. Pei. It is one of the tallest buildings in Hong Kong and has a free observation deck. Open Mon to Fri 9am-6pm; Sat 9am-1pm. HSBC Building

Y Cross Queen’s Road Central to HSBC.

HSBC Building This is the first building of its size in Hong Kong constructed entirely of structural steel—without any reinforced concrete in its inner core. Designed by acclaimed British architect Norman Foster, it’s not open to the public, but its atrium is.

June 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 53

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54 W HERE H ONG KONG I j une 2013

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時代廣 Times Squar

里n 交加 ss L june 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 57 Cro Rd d o o 跑馬地運動 W

30 Things we LOve about Hong Kong 6

1 Trying tai chi for free at

9 Shaking fortune-telling bamboo sticks at the Wong Tai Sin Temple.

the Sculpture Court in front of the Hong Kong Museum of Art from 8am to 9am every Monday, !0 Saying hi to Bruce Lee at the Wednesday, Thursday and Friday. Avenue of Stars, Tsim Sha Tsui. 2 Dressing up for high tea at !1 Shopping for antique kitsch The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, on Cat Street (Upper Lascar Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-3169. Row), Sheung Wan. 3 Watching the sunset !2 Eating with the locals at from tranquil Pui O Beach, a dai pai dong food stall. Lantau Island. Gough St., Central. 4 Having our palms read at !3 Hiking along the beautiful the Temple Street night market, Sai Kung Peninsula. Yau Ma Tei. !4 Listening to a Chinese tea 5 Spotting endangered white expert talking about the dolphins with Dolphinwatch varieties of tea, its proper off Lantau Island, 2984-1414. preparation and tea-drinking etiquette. Free talk at Lock Cha 6 Seeing all your animated Tea Shop from 4pm to 5pm favorites come to life at Hong Kong Disneyland, Lantau Island, every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Call 2801-7177. 1830-830. 7 Dining aboard the kitschycool Jumbo Kingdom floating restaurant. Shum Wan Pier Drive, Aberdeen, 2553-9111.

!5 Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei.

8 Cruising Victoria Harbor on the Duk Ling, an authentic Chinese fishing junk, 2573-5282.

!6 Getting a shave at the Mandarin Barber, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2522-0111.

58 W HERE H ONG KONG I June 2013

!7 Riding the cable car 5.7 kilometers over Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Ngong Ping cultural-themed village and the Big Buddha. !8 Snaking through the highrises on the Mid-Levels Escalator—the longest in the world. Cochrane, Shelley, and Peel Streets, Central. !9 Meeting Pui Pui, our famous crocodile, at the eco-friendly Hong Kong Wetland Park. Tin Shui Wai, New Territories, 2708-8885. @0 Taking the Peak Tram to visit Hong Kong celebrities at Madame Tussauds. Shop P10, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., 2849-6966. @1 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 16-24 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. @2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building to be constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill.

@3 Taking the oldest ride in Hong Kong—a tram from Western to Causeway Bay. @4 Enjoying free kung fu demonstrations and cultural performances at Kowloon Park every Sunday from 2:30pm to 4:30pm. Weather permitting. @5 Slurping oysters for brunch at Café Deco. 1/F-2/F, Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-5111. @6 Taking a walk down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defence, 2569-1500. @7 Drinking at panoramic bar Aqua Spirit. 30/F, One Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. @8 Checking out the KowloonCanton Railway clock tower. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. @9 Snacking on egg tarts at Tai Cheong Bakery. 32 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2554-3475. #0 Bird-watching at the Mai Po Marshes, Mai Po, 2526-4473.

Arch Angel Authenticated museum quality Asian antiquities. 53/55 Hollywood Road • Central • Hong Kong • Tel: (852) 2851 6848 • Fax: (852) 2851 6778 • Open Daily: 9:30-6:30 Email: antiques@ArchAngelAntiques.com.hk