WHERE Hong Kong - June 2014

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the complete guide to go

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Hong Kong

Take It to the

Streets Hong Kong’s top outdoor markets

Dragon boat Festival Trendy Chinese diners Explore Hong Kong with a local

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where Hong Kong 6.2014 ®

the guide

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06 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events

12 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot

16 art + culture Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening

22 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town

28 Drinks Our favorite places to sip a cocktail

40 Map Kowloon & Hong Kong Island

Also inside 30 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers

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features 7 Off to the Races It’s dragon boat season

8 Take it to the streets The best of Hong Kong’s street markets

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36 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info 42 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences

on the cover J u n e 2 014

the complete guide to go

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Hong Kong

22 Chinese Revolution Dig in at these trendy Chinese diners

Take It to the

STreeTS Hong Kong’s top outdoor markets

Dragon boaT FeSTIval TrenDy ChIneSe DInerS explore hong Kong wITh a loCal

Hong Kong is a city full of vibrant street markets. You can shop for everything from fresh produce to electronic gadgets to cheap clothes. That is, if you know where to look. Learn more on p.8.

wheretraveler.com The website from the editors of Where Magazine.

Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.

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HK | EDITORIAL EDITOR-in-chief Zach Hines EDITOR Adele Wong STAFF WRITER Evelyn Lok CONTRIBUTORs Chloe Tong, Adam White, Kate Springer

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hot dates Hong Kong

By Evelyn Lok

Throughout June Pandamonium Sixteen hundred paper mache pandas created by French artist Paulo Grangeon are descending on Hong Kong the week of June 9, and will be touring over 10 landmarks across the city, from the Sha Tin Racecourse to the Hong Kong Coliseum and even Ocean Park to visit their living brethren. The tour ends the week of June 26 at new art and design hub PMQ Central, to coincide with their grand opening. Limited-edition panda-themed products will be on sale by the designers, and paper mache workshops will also be held. This tour is organized for conservation awareness and part of the proceeds will go to WWF. Various Locations.

June 6-7

An American In Hong Kong The HK Philharmonic continues its “Swire Maestro” series by introducing New York Philharmonic conductor Case Scaglione to the podium. The program will include pieces that best encompass the American spirit, starting with John Adam’s dizzying and sensual foxtrot “The Chairman Dances”—supposedly depicting a humorous imagined scene where Chairman and Madame Mao are dancing—and ending with Leonard Bernstein’s iconic Symphonic Dances from “West Side Story.”

8pm. Concert Hall, Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $60-320 from www.urbtix.hk.

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June 20-22

Water World UK-based dance group Motionhouse is coming to Hong Kong to perform their new show “Scattered,” inspired by the relationship between people and water. The show will be staged on a curved floor, which will also serve as the backdrop for an array of projections. Dancers will be suspended on aerial harnesses and bungees, so buckle up for a heart-stopping performance.

Jun 20-21, 8pm; Jun 21-22, 2:30pm. Theatre, Sai Wan Ho Civic Centre, 111 Shau Kei Wan Rd., Sai Wan Ho. $150-300 from www.urbtix.hk.

hot dates

June 2-8

Off to the Races Celebrate the Tuen Ng festival—better known as the Dragon Boat Festival—which commemorates historic Chinese patriot Qu Yuan’s sacrificial death in the river Miluo 2,000 years ago. Locals back then supposedly rushed to find his body by paddling out on their long streamlined boats, beating their drums and throwing rice dumplings into the river to distract the fish. Today, we celebrate by eating rice dumplings—zongzi—and by gathering to watch the annual Dragon Boat races and parades taking place throughout the city.

The Hong Kong Dragon Boat Carnival takes place at Victoria Harbour the weekend after the Dragon Boat Festival on June 2, and is an exciting event with international teams competing, paired with a San Miguel Beerfest for revelers to knock back a few and enjoy the festivities on land.

To witness one of the unique cultural traditions of Hong Kong, venture out to Tai O to see the annual Dragon Boat Water Parade, a religious event where Tai O’s fishermen associations paddle out to the four surrounding temples and take the deity statues on a parade to appease the wandering water ghosts. Residents of the local stilt houses burn incense and paper offerings, and pray as the boats pass by.

June 2-8, various locations. Hong Kong Dragon Boat Carnival: June 6-8, Victoria Harbour, East Tsim Sha Tsui; San Miguel BeerFest: UC Centenary Garden, East Tsim Sha Tsui; Dragon Boat Water Parade: June 2, Tai O.

June 20 Onwards

June 25-28

June 6-9

Oriental Opera

Plays, Not War

Hold Your Pose

Hong Kong’s Chinese Opera Festival is returning for its fifth year, and this time around the festival will be opened by the enigmatic virtuoso star of Chinese traditional theater, Pei Yanling. She will be bringing a cast from the Peking Opera Research Centre of Hebei to perform excerpts of some of the the classics in Beijing and Kunqu opera. A guided performance will accompany the opening act, “Exploring the Art of Chinese Traditional Theatre,” which will reveal Pei’s raw talents without any stage makeup or flashy costumes.

In remembering the 100-year anniversary of the first World War, the Hong Kong Players are taking to the stage with the excellent antiwar musical, “Oh, What A Lovely War!” Based on Charles Chilton’s original play and its 1963 adaptation by Joan Littlewood, it’s a satirical comedy that tells the story of the troops, from the newly drafted soldiers’ hope for glory, to their suffering in the traumatic conditions of the trenches.

Yogis, take note: the annual Evolution Asia Yoga Conference is one of the biggest events in the yoga world. Renowned yoga teachers and speakers will be in town to give lectures, and there will be tons of free events for the public—such as a Bodybalance class on June 6, and a family session on June 8.

Simply bring your yoga mat!

Various times and events. Phase 1, South Wing and Old Wing, HKCEC, 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, www.asiayogaconference.com.

Jun 20-Aug 30. Various events and venues, check www.cof.gov.hk. $120-420 from www.urbtix.hk.

Jun 25-28, 8pm; Jun 28, 2:30pm. Shouson Theatre, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai. $290-350 from www.urbtix.hk.

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Take It to the Streets Go shopping in Hong Kong’s street markets. By Adele Wong, Chloe Tong, Evelyn Lok

H

ong Kong is a city that knows a thing or two about shopping— but it’s not all indoor malls and mega entertainment complexes. There are also plenty of colorful outdoor markets that cater to every type of customer. Check these out while you’re in town.

PMQ Night Markets This all-new night-time market in Central is housed in a rejuvenated former police building (known as the Police Married Quarters, or PMQ for short). Taking place each weekend in the central courtyard that’s sandwiched between the two main lowrise buildings, PMQ Night Markets consists of stalls hawking everything from jewelry to beauty products to clothing to shoes. Take your pick of local brands or international designers. There are also a handful of outdoor food vendors representing restaurants across the city, serving finger 8 W H E R E HONG KONG I j u n e 2 0 1 4

foods, snacks and pastries. Picnic tables spread out across the yard make it easy to grab a bite and while the evening away.

The PMQ building itself is on the site of a former government school that was partially destroyed during World War II. After the war, the site was converted into the city’s first Police Married Quarters, where newly inducted officers lodged with their spouses. The complex was vacated in 2000, and in 2009 the government earmarked it for a heritage conservation project, consequently transforming it into a public space while keeping functional elements of the old buildings intact. Today, clothing boutiques and lifestyle shops line the corridors.

35 Aberdeen St., Central, www.pmq.org.hk.

Opening Hours: June 6-8 & 13-15.

Fri 6-11pm, Sat 5-11pm, Sun noon-5pm.

How to Get There: Ride the Mid-Levels escalators up to Hollywood Road, then walk westward until you reach Aberdeen Street. Make a left on Aberdeen—PMQ will be on your right hand side.

Upper Lascar Row Hollywood Road and its surrounding streets in Sheung Wan are a treasure trove for art and antiques enthusiasts, and one particularly enchanting enclave is Upper Lascar Row, also known as “Cat Street”.

This pedestrian-only alleyway is occupied on both sides by antiques and curio shops, stocking everything from Chinese propaganda posters to jade buddhas to jewelry to playing cards. Trinket stalls parked outside the shops to add to the market atmosphere. In recent months, two restaurants have also opened up on the street: Man Mo Café, which serves Frenchified dim sum, and Bibo, an artgallery-slash-restaurant.

After checking out Upper Lascar Row, be sure to browse the many art galleries along Hollywood Road as well as all the intersecting side streets. Delightful cafés and boutiques can be found on Po Hing Fong, Tai Ping Shan Street and Upper

Station Street, to name just a few.

Upper Lascar Row and Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan. Opening hours: Each shop and gallery has different opening hours, but the streets are open to the public 24/7.

How to Get There: Take the MTR to Central Station and get out at Exit D. Walk west on Queen’s Road Central until you reach the MidLevels Escalators, then take the escalator up to Hollywood Road.

Stanley Market Stanley used to be the base for Britain’s garrison when Hong Kong was under British rule in the 18th century. With British colonial architecture such as the Murray House—which was relocated brick by brick from Central—flanked by local shops and restaurants, the district boasts a quaint east-meets-west vibe.

This busy outdoor market is a top tourist spot. Made up of alleys and lanes dotted with dozens of stalls, Stanley Market offers a diverse selection of local as well as international products. All sorts of distinctively Chinese items can be bought, including traditional Chinese clothes, paintings, jade, and name stamps.

Your best bet is to negotiate or compare prices before you go ahead with a purchase—it’s all about bargains in Hong Kong’s street markets.

As a bonus, Stanley also has two beaches (Stanley Main Beach and St. Stephen’s Beach) and a host of alfresco bars and cafés that stretch across its waterfront.

It’s a peaceful and relaxing district packed with fresh air and cool breezes.

Stanley New Street and Stanley Market Road, Stanley, www.hk-stanley-market.com.

Opening Hours: Most shops open from 10am- 7pm.

How to Get There: From Central’s Exchange Square Bus Terminus, take Bus 6, 6A, 6X, 66 or 260. j u n e 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 9

Island East Markets Organized by the same folks behind the PMQ Night Markets, Island East Markets is a Sunday affair that takes place outside a multi-building office complex in Quarry Bay. The pedestrian-only area is lined with artisanal stalls offering the freshest produce from Hong Kong’s farms, trinkets from local designers, and snacks from yet-to-open restaurants as well as established names across the city. In fact, you might even be able to catch some products from local entrepreneurs who are testing the waters before they launch a full-blown business.

The Island East Markets are particuarly family-friendly, with live music and entertainment for children and adults alike. Vendors rotate weekly to keep things interesting.

Tong Chong Street, Quarry Bay, www.facebook/com/islandeastmarkets.

Opening Hours: Throughout June, Sundays 11am-5:30pm.

How to Get There: Take the MTR to Quarry Bay Station, walk out of Exit A, cross the street.

Wan Chai Market Arguably the largest open-air market on Hong Kong Island, the Wan Chai Street Market is known to locals as “Toy Street,” as it is a go-to for novelty knick-knacks and childhood favorites, with some shops having been in business for decades.

After the 1980s, Hong Kong’s booming toy industry moved to the mainland, and locally produced toys became a rare charm.

For the young at heart, take an afternoon stroll through the market, where you can find limited-edition action figures, stuffed toys, cute stationery and everything in between.

While there are still some shops on Toy Street where you can find the “watermelon” beach balls and bubble blowers that most Hong Kong kids played with once upon a time, today the market is a local shopper’s hub where you can find all sorts of dried 10 W H E R E HONG KONG I j u n e 2 0 1 4

foods and snacks, affordable clothing and accessories, plants and flowers, and different seasonal decorations year-round.

Also check out the myriad local diners lining the streets on both sides, which offer a lot of strange and wonderful gems: from Chinese herbal soups and snake stews to iconic Hong Kong cha chaan teng (local greasy spoon) bites.

Tai Yuen Street, Wan Chai.

Opening Hours: Daily from around 11am-7pm; some vendors may choose to open slightly later or earlier.

How to Get There: Take the MTR to Wan Chai station. Look for Exit A3 on Johnston Street.

Facing south, cross the road and you’ll reach Tai Yuen Street, perpendicular to Johnston.

Just follow the street down the row of green tin stalls.

Fa Yuen Street Market Korea—think quirky and cute looks with clean cuts—while others stock unique looks curated in-store. From basics to your next party dress, Fa Yuen Street has it all at incredibly affordable prices; you just have to take the time to sift through to find what you want.

But there’s much more to Mong Kok’s famous markets than Fa Yuen Street alone.

For a detailed breakdown and walking tour, turn to p.12.

Fa Yuen Street, Mong Kok. Opening Hours: From around 11am-10:30pm; some vendors may choose to open slightly later or earlier.

How to Get There: The street market is located just perpendicular to the massive pedestrian walkway along Mong Kok Road.

The walkway connects Grand Century Plaza

Fa Yuen Street

at Mong Kok East train station and Mong Kok MTR exit B3, and will lead you to the southern end of the market near the midpoint of the walkway.

Alternatively, take the MTR to Prince Edward, and get out at exit B2. Take a left and follow Nullah Road until it turns into Fa Yuen Street Market.

Photo: Lightjar Photography

Sai Kung Sunday Market While not technically outdoors, this vibrant monthly farmer’s and craft market debuted in March and has already become a popular weekend haunt for the locals. With over 50 stalls housed in the Hong Kong Academy, the Sai Kung Sunday Market offers a wide range of goods. Small businesses, farmers, artists and artisans attract visitors with all sorts of temptations: from organic or specialty foods to handmade crafts to henna tattoos. There are also live music performances during market hours, making it the perfect Sunday family outing.

Sai Kung district itself offers everything from beaches to mountains to seafood restaurants. Adventurous visitors can hike through the country parks and surf by the beaches. Tai Long Wan on the east coast of the Sai Kung peninsula is a popular surfing location as well as a camping hotspot, although it’s a fairly strenuous 45-minute hike each way.

Sai Kung is also renowned for its seafood. Crowds of fishermen selling fresh fish line the pier and promenade each day.

Pick up a fresh catch, then bring it to a nearby harborside restaurant where they’ll turn it into a delicious seafood meal.

Sai Kung Sunday Market: Hong Kong Academy, 33 Wai Man Rd., Sai Kung, www. facebook.com/SaiKungSundayIndoorMarket.

Opening Hours: First Sunday of every month 11am-5pm (open Sep-June).

How to Get There: Go to Choi Hung MTR (Exit C2), then take green minibus 1A or bus 92 to Sai Kung.

Photo by: Wing1990hk, Creative Commons

If you love shopping for the latest trends, Fa Yuen Street is the place to go. Along the seemingly ordinary street market facade, you’ll find some of the freshest exotic fruits and produce, together with daily necessities such as hosiery and umbrellas, and toys and knitting supplies. If you venture on either side of the market stalls, the shops carry a full range of fashionable dresses, outfits, shoes and accessories that mimic the styles donned by runway models and celebrities.

Years ago, the shops here were known to stock mostly factory seconds, but these days that’s less true. Nowadays, more and more local fashion digs are opening up along this street, offering everything from cheap trendy trinkets to stylish clothes and bags made from top quality fabrics. You’ll find that some stores offer designs imported straight from Japan and

Sai Kung Pier

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Walking Tours | The Guide

One Stop Shopping For a non-stop-shop experience like the local urbanites have, you need look no further than Yau Ma Tei and Mong Kok—the heart of the Kowloon Peninsula. Within these two neighborhoods are side streets and alleys that are home to some of Hong Kong’s liveliest markets.

You’ll be amazed by the teeming masses jostling to and fro in this unique and atmospheric district. Walking through Yau Ma Tei and Mong Kok is a memorable experience any time of the day or night. You’ll love the ambience and the great deals you can get on souvenirs, clothing, electronic goods and much more.

At the end of Flower Market Road, turn left and then right into Prince Edward Road West. Walk west until you see a gas station, then left into Tung Choi Street.

Goldfish Market Shops selling colorful fish of different species along with furnishings and decorations for aquariums line both sides of Tung Choi Street. The shops are usually open 10:30am-10pm daily.

Walk along Tung Choi Street, turn left into Bute Street and then turn right into Fa Yuen Street.

Fa Yuen Street Fa Yuen Street is the place to be if you want to find trendy fashions and casual wear for men, women and children at bargain prices. Open 11am-9:30pm daily.

See also p.11.

Walk along Fa Yuen Street to Mong Kok Road, turn right and cross the road to reach another section of Tung Choi Street. Walk to Argyle Street and cross the road to reach the starting point of the Ladies’ Market.

Ladies’ Market

Yuen Po Street Bird Garden Set within an attractive Chinese-style courtyard, the Yuen Po Street Bird Garden is a market catering to the owners of pet birds. They come to the market with cage in hand to find new birds of different types and sizes, buy accessories and food for their pets, or to just take their pet birds for a “walk” and meet up with other bird owners. The garden, with its many singing avian creatures, offers a unique Hong Kong experience. Open 7am-8pm daily.

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Walk through the Bird Garden to the junction of Yuen Po Street and Flower Market Road.

SCMP/David Wong

Head to the Prince Edward MTR Station and exit at B1. Walk east along Prince Edward Road West to the Yuen Po Street Bird Garden.

Flower Market This hub of Hong Kong’s wholesale and retail floral business will welcome you first with the sweet natural fragrances and then with the eye-catching colors of flowers and plants sold for very attractive prices. Open 7am-7pm daily.

Don’t be deceived by the name. The Ladies’ Market has something for everyone, vending bargain-priced items including men’s and women’s clothing, knick-knacks, watches and beauty products. Beside the stalls are Hong Kong-style cafes that offer local favorites. Open noon-11:30pm daily.

Walk through the Ladies’ Market to its end at Dundas Street. Turn right and walk to Shanghai Street, then turn left.

Shanghai Street Get a taste of the bygone days of Hong Kong and visit one of the city’s oldest streets. Many of the buildings date back to the early 1900s, and some shops have existed for decades. Look for shops selling Chinese-style wedding clothes, which feature stunning embroidery. In the past there were many of these shops; now, just a few remain. It’s also a great place to pick up bargain kitchenware.

Continue along Shanghai Street and turn right at Kansu Street to find the Jade Market.

Jade Market /Jade Street About 400 registered stall owners sell amulets, ornaments, necklaces and trinkets made from the revered green stone. This is a fun place to browse and to buy an inexpensive memento of your visit, but think twice before buying anything costly unless you are a jade expert. Open 10am-5pm daily. Nearby is Jade Street, located on Canton Road between Kansu Street and Jordan Road, with shops open Mon-Sat 10am-4pm. Jade and gemstone testing is available at Jade Plaza. A giant jade stone, weighing three tons, has been placed at the junction of Canton Road and Jordan Road as a landmark.

Go back to Shanghai Street, walk north to the junction of Shanghai and Public Square streets, turn right and walk to the Tin Hau Temple.

Tin Hau Temple This temple is dedicated to Tin Hau, the goddess of seafarers. Its location in the middle of Yau Ma Tei might seem odd, but long ago, before massive land reclamation, it was on the harbor.

The waterfront has since been pushed to the south, but people continue to worship here. You can go inside 8am-5pm daily.

Walk to Temple Street, which you’ll find on the other side of the temple.

Temple Street Night Market This is the famous night market, open from 4pm until midnight daily, where you can find all kinds of cheapo items, including clothes, sunglasses, gadgets and curios. You’ll also often see fortune tellers, Cantonese opera singers and professional Chinese chess players hanging out too.

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the guide

Just Chill Cool down in the hot Hong Kong heat with a summer cocktail from Dada Bar + Lounge in Tsim Sha Tsui.

Try the “Zing” (pictured), which is made with hibiscus liquor, grapefruit juice, rhubarb syrup and a dash of gin. Or have a go at the “Spiked” (cucumber-and-chili-infused vodka, prosecco, crème de gingembre), or “Passionate” (gin, passion fruit juice, guava juice). Want to keep it alcohol-free? Get the “Mad Mango”mocktail, which comes with mango juice, blueberries and blueberry yogurt.

Dada Bar + Lounge, 2/F, The Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberley Rd., Tsim sha Tsui, 3763-8778.

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Art+culture | The Guide

On The Scene Two exciting exhibitions. By Evelyn Lok Image courtesy of artist and Blindspot Gallery

Once In a Blue Moon Acclaimed photographer Nadav Kander’s first solo exhibition in Hong Kong, “Curves of Moon and Rivers of Blue,” will feature works from two of his most celebrated photo series. He’s also known for being behind the lens for many celebrity photograph series.

Check out “Yangtze, the Long River,” which features riverside landscape photos that highlight the rapid pace of change in China, and “Bodies: Six Women and One Man,” a collection of nude photographs that are honest depictions of the human body. While they are two distinct series, the motif of the vulnerability of mankind runs deep in both.

Until July 19. Blindspot Gallery, 15/F, Po Chai Industrial Building, 28 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2517-6238.

Nadav Kander, "Chongqing IV (Sunday Picnic), Chongqing Municipality"

Industrial sculptures

by Sjors van Buyten

The Popsy Room

Sensory Overload Creative visionary Jennifer Chung believes that art should be experienced through the five senses, and for new gallery Popsy Room’s inaugural exhibition, "Meditation and Megrim," she’s put together a group show to reflect exactly that.

Discover the works of four Hong Kong-based artists through paintings, illustrations and sculptures from Jun Cambel, Manuel Rubio, Yan Yung and Sjors van Buyten. Enjoy music by American musician John Mahon. Also wake up your taste buds with aromatic oils and tea by Kat Li. Through June. G/F, 30 Upper Lascar Row, Sheung Wan, 2234-6711, www.thepopsyroom.com.

Antiques ALTFIELD GALLERY — Altfield Gallery deals in Southeast Asian sculpture and decorative arts, antique maps and topographical prints relating to Asia, as well as Chinese and Tibetan carpets.

Altfield also produces a range of reproduction furniture and accessories in the Chinoiserie style. Shipping available.

Shop 248-9, 2/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-6370, www.altfield.com.hk.

ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUES — The three-story shop houses large collections of Qing dynasty porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic stone and bronze sculptures and buddhas, and terracotta sculptures from China and South-Eastern Asia are found in the viewing galleries, plus there are over 200 paintings in the extensive ancestral scroll collection.

G/F, 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848.

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DRAGON CULTURE — Specializes in dinosaur egg fossils, Han Dynasty terracotta, Tang sculptures and Ming porcelain figures. 231 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-8098, www.dragonculture.com.hk.

JOYCE GALLERY — Specializing in ancient sculptures and archaic bronzes from across China, Joyce displays a collection of antiquities dating to the Shang dynasty, including ancient bronzes, stone carvings, gold and silver ware, jade, pottery and Buddhist works. It guarantees its descriptions of the period and history of its items and offers a full refund if the purchased item does not match the description. Shop 1, 123 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-1869, www.joycegallery.com.

Lam & Co Antiquities

LAM & CO ANTIQUITIES — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silver ware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offers repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services.

2/F, 151 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877.

You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.

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Art+culture | The Guide OI LING ANTIQUES — Oi Ling's Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items dating as far back as the Neolithic era. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2815-9422, www.oilingantiques.com.

WATTIS FINE ART — Specializes in antique maps of Asia, and historical photographs and prints of China, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia. 2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302, www.wattis.com.hk.

Galleries 10 CHANCERY LANE GALLERY — Focusing on established and emerging international artists, 10 Chancery Lane consists of two large gallery spaces. It holds exhibitions of sculptures, paintings, photographs, installations and videos, as well as performances by renowned artists. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, SoHo, 2810-0065, www.10chancerylanegallery.com.

AGNèS B. LIBRAIRIE GALERIE — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnès b. has a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world. G/F, 118 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2869-5505, www.agnesb.com.

ALISAN FINE ARTS — This well-established gallery has organized more than 100 exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world.

Run by respected art-world figure Alice King, who has worked with the Guggenheim Museum, it also mounts exhibitions for overseas venues. Room 2305, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091, www.alisan.com.hk.

ARCH ANGEL ART GALLERY — Arch angel Art Gallery features a collection of contemporary Vietnamese and Southeast Asian paintings acquired directly from the artists. Some of the paintings are from founder Koos Groot's private collection.

30 Peel St., Central, 2851-6882.

AP Contemporary— AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2148, www.apcontemporary.com.

ART BEATUS — Established in the early 1990s, Art Beatus features mainly original paintings and art by contemporary Chinese artists.

Some of its collection has a retro slant, and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoon as vehicles for expression. Has branches in Vancouver and on Queen’s Road Central. G/F, 50 Peel St., Central, 2522-1138, www.artbeatus.com.

ASIA FINE ART — Dedicated to promoting young Asian artists at affordable prices, this gallery has regular exhibitions of work from China, Vietnam and Indonesia and Myanmar for sale on site and online. 14 Sik On St., Wan Chai (entrance at 99 Queen’s Rd. East), 2522-0405, www.asia-fineart.com.

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Asia Society Hong Kong

ASIA SOCIETY HONG KONG — Asia Society Hong Kong's big, brand-spankin’-new headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences—97 percent of which are open to the public—the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. Closed Mon. G/F, 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511, www.asiasociety.org/ hong-kong.

BEN BROWN FINE ARTS — After 10 years at Sotheby’s and two more at a private gallery, Ben Brown and his wife sought to create a space that housed pieces reflective of their tastes—primarily on European modern and contemporary artworks. 301 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2522-9600, www.benbrownfinearts.com.

THE CAT STREET GALLERY — Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the world.

222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006, www.thecatstreetgallery.com.

CONTEMPORARY BY ANGELA LI — Perhaps best known for introducing Chinese artists Chen Jiagang and Liao Yibai to the art world, CBAL boasts a lovely space and a carefully curated exhibition program. G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3571-8200, www.cbal.com.hk.

GAGOSIAN GALLERY — With 14 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. They opened their doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an all-new exhibition by Damien Hirst—Gagosian only exhibits the crème-de-lacrème of the art world. Closed Mon. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555, www.gagosian.com.

Galerie Du Monde

GALERIE DU MONDE — Galerie du Monde hosts exhibitions by Chinese artists including Li Shuang, Le Longyao, Yu Xiaohui, Hon Chifun and Pan Xun. Its conservation studio provides a complete restoration service for works of art on paper and canvas. Shop 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Center, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529, www.galeriedumonde.com.

GROTTO FINE ART — Curated by Henry Au-yeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery represents local artists, with an interest in new and avant-garde art forms. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixedmedia and installation pieces. 2/F, 31C-D Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270, www.grottofineart.com.

HANART TZ GALLERY — A specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone.

401 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019, www.hanart.com.

Opera Gallery De Sarthe Gallery

DE SARTHE GALLERY — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the U.S. and Europe, de Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011.

8/F, Club Lusitano, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896, desarthe.com.

ESPACE LOUIS VUITTON — LV has been invading gallery spaces for the past half decade, stirring unrest in the hearts of hard-line art critics but appreciation in the eyes of those beholders who’re able to look past reservations about brand-name commercialism. Espace Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton Mansion, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 8100-1182.

OPERA GALLERY — Opera Gallery features works by world-famous international artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Gerard Rancinan and Lita Cabellut, among others. W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-1208, www.operagallery.com.

Puerta Roja — Puerta Roja was established to promote Latin American art and artists to the Hong Kong audience. Drawings, etchings, glasswork and sculptures are all featured here.

Shop A, G/F, Wai Yue Building, 15-17 New St., Sheung Wan, 2803-0332.

PICTURE THIS — The city’s largest affordable art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children’s rooms, and sporting prints. Suite

Hong Kong

apr il 2013

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Art+culture

1308, 13/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 25252820, www.picturethiscollection.com.

Plum Blossoms Gallery

PLUM BLOSSOMS GALLERY — Recognized for its exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection of museum-quality ancient textiles, Plum Blossoms is an established platform for the promotion of both ancient and modern arts.

14/F, Cheung Tak Building, 30 Heung Yip Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2521-2189, www. plumblossoms.com.

SHIN HWA GALLERY — Focusing on Asian contemporary art, Shin Hwa features both upcoming and established artists. It is particularly committed to innovative Korean artists. Room 4A, Yue On Commercial Building, 385 Lockhart Rd., Wan Chai, 2803-7960, www.shinhwagallery.com.

White Cube

WHITE CUBE — One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first non-UK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials—for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. Closed Sun-Mon. G-1/F, 50 Connaught Rd. Central, 2592-2000, www. whitecube.com.

Museums FLAGSTAFF HOUSE MUSEUM OF TEAWARE — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-inchief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Closed Tue. 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Hong Kong Park, Central, 2869-0690, www.hk.art.museum.

HONG KONG FILM ARCHIVE — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Tuesdays. 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139.

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HONG KONG HERITAGE MUSEUM — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. It features permanent exhibitions on the New Territories, Cantonese opera and a Children’s Discovery Gallery. Closed Tues.

1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188, www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk

What happened at the Pinewood Battery? *

Hong Kong Maritime Museum

HONG KONG MARITIME MUSEUM — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong's growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare.

Central Ferry Pier No. 8, 3713-2500, www.hkmaritimemuseum.org.

HONG KONG MUSEUM OF ART — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works.

10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0116, www.hk.art.museum.

HONG KONG MUSEUM OF HISTORY — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. Closed Tue. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042, hk.history.museum.

Hong Kong Museum Of Medical Sciences

HONG KONG MUSEUM OF MEDICAL SCIENCES — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both Western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Closed Mon. 2 Caine Lane, MidLevels, 2549-5123, www.hkmms.org.hk.

LAW UK FOLK MUSEUM — Law Uk, which means “Law’s House” after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. Free admission. Closed Thu. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006, www.hk.history.museum.

LEI CHENG UK HAN TOMB MUSEUM — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, this is one of the city’s most fascinating monuments. Closed Thu. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863, hk.history.museum.

*Learn about this and other fascinating facts in

Historical Hong Kong Hikes A guide to 15 remarkable treks, detailing the rich history of the SAR’s peaks, valleys and urban neighborhoods

In all major bookstores now! Or order yours at: www.historicalhkhikes.com

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dining | The Guide

Chinese Revolution

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M

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The city’s newest, trendiest Chinese restaurants.

By Kate Springer and Adam White Nothing Really Motters

Want Some Mo?

It’s Shou Time

Mott 32 serves classy Chinese food in a sleek venue that sprawls across a 7,500-square-foot New York-style loft space. You’ll find upscale versions of your favorite dishes here, including lobster mapo tofu, Iberico char siu and applewoodroasted Peking duck. Don’t expect your average dim sum, either, as the chefs are prone to sprinkling in black truffle or caviar to class things up—take for example the Kurobuta pork, crab and caviar xiaolongbao (steamed dumplings), or the BBQ Spanish Teruel pork buns.

Man Mo Café is an artsy little eatery nestled comfortably among all the vintage hawkers on Upper Lascar Row. Around lunchtime, the tiny spot fills up quickly, as its FrenchChinese fusion dim sum menu has quite the following—think foie gras xiaolongbao, truffle brie dumplings, king prawn spring rolls and seafood risotto. And for dessert? A “kung fu” crème brûlée, made with a milk tea base, or a bite-sized lemon egg tart. But it’s not just about the food—the diner doubles as a mini art gallery, featuring rotating exhibits from local artists that are for sale.

B/F, Standard Chartered Building, 4-4A Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2885-8688.

40 Upper Lascar Row, Sheung Wan, 2644-5644.

An ultra-hip bar-slash-resto on Hollywood Road, Fu Lu Shou (it means “good fortune, prosperity and longevity”) is a fresh face on the dining scene. When you arrive, an old-school lift takes you up to the 7th floor, where you’re greeted with an awesome street-art mural and a cozy rooftop. The menu here brings all Chinatown favorites to Hong Kong, with fantastic deep-fried tofu, shrimp toast and spicy kung pao chicken. The Asian-style cocktails are creative, too: try the Joh Sun, which uses homemade lemongrass syrup and a kick of chili. Want to visit? You’ll have to call ahead for the door code, which changes weekly.

It Takes Too

Room to Schmooze

For Chinese fusion with a playful side, check out Zen Too, which mixes and matches ingredients to give each dish its own personality. There’s the “dancing” miso aubergine and “rock ‘n’ roll” oysters, but the sweet-and-sour pork pineapple buns won’t be outdone. A huge menu spans everything from har gau to nose-to-tail Chinese stew, to truffle fried rice.

Club Heichinrou is a reservations-only restaurant that’s all about keeping it classy and secluded. The whole restaurant consists of private dining rooms, making it ideal for private parties. The kitchen makes a point of its super-fresh seafood, with fine-dine takes on Cantonese classics such as deep fried mantis prawns with spicy salt, or steamed razor clams with vermicelli and garlic.

8/F, Soundwill Plaza II–Midtown, 1 Tang Lung St., Causeway Bay, 2845-4555.

7/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2890-3616.

7/F, 31 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2336-8812.

Club Heichinrou

Mott 32

Zen Too 22 W H E R E HONG KONG I j u n e 2 0 1 4

Fu Lu Shou

Fu Lu Shou

dining

Top Nosh This just in. By Adele Wong

Sushi To

Sushi for To Chef-slash-serial entrepreneur Harlan Goldstein has a new trick up his sleeve: this time, it’s an adventurous contempo Japanese restaurant called Sushi To at Soundwill Plaza II, the hottest new F&B destination in town. The 6,800-square-foot restaurant has an outdoor terrace, and is named after Harlan’s longtime business partner, Simon To. Look for nigiri sushi made from marinated fish, maki rolls, hearty affairs such as the wagyu tenderloin, and soups—there’s a stone hot pot

specialty that contains Hokkaido scallops and Hiroshima oysters.

Sushi To, 29/F, Soundwill Plaza II, 1-29 Tung Lung St., Causeway Bay, 2970-3218.

Sassy Mama Bali’s gorgeous restaurant Mama San is landing in Hong Kong. With Aussie chef Will Meyrick in charge (he also runs the original Mama San and Sarong in Bali), the trendy space is dedicated to contemporary Southeast Asian flavors and colorful cocktails. Essentially, Asian

Admiralty

Causeway Bay

Ammo — Western. $$$ Tapas and pastas can be had at this posh Asia Society eatery housed in a former British army magazine compound.

9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2537-9888.

Hooray — Italian. $$ Al fresco drinks and dining in a casual setting complete with a magnificent harbor view. Shop P502, 5/F, World Trade Center, 280 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2895 0885.

DAN RYAN’S — American. $$$ Dan Ryan’s prides itself on Chicago-style chow. Shop 112, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2845-4600.

METROPOL — Dim sum. $ Beef balls, steamed shrimp dumplings, pork-and-shrimp dumplings, stuffed rice rolls and other Hong Kong specialties are wheeled around in traditional trolleys for an authentic dim sum experience.

4/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty, 2865-1988.

NICHOLINI’S — Italian. $$$$ This restaurant gets kudos from honest-to-goodness Italians, and that’s good enough for us. 8/F, Conrad International Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2521-3838.

PETRUS — French. $$$$ This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The décor is a bit ostentatious, but the opulence suits the magnificent view.

56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2820-8590.

IPPUDO — Ramen. $ Japan’s famous chain serves ramen in bowls so enormous they should be called cauldrons, with a meaty, savory broth, tender pork pieces, springy noodles and tangy spring onions topped with fungus and bean sprouts. 2/F, 8 Russell St., 2892-2387.

MANGO TREE — Thai. $$-$$$ Somehow, in the middle of bustling Causeway Bay, in a high-rise chock-full of other restaurants and bars, Mango Tree manages to be an oasis of dim lighting, carefully placed flowers and good Thai food.

5/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-0828.

Sorabol — Korean. $$ The smell wafting from the open barbecues in the middle of each table will get your appetite going— which is a good thing, since you’ll want to try everything. 18/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival St., 2881-6823.

Mama San

curries, stir-fries and other classics are given a modern, western-style presentation. The Hong Kong outpost might not be as glorious as its two-story Balinese counterpart, but the people are just as cool: you’ll notice some Indonesian staff working the bar and kitchen—an initiative set out by chef Meyrick to promote not only Indonesian products overseas, but also to support Indonesians by employing them at his various ventures.

Mama San, 1/F, 46 Wyndham St., Central, 2881-8901.

Tott’s — Modern Asian/Western. $$$-$$$$ Sophisticated décor, harbor-view seats, and perfectly crafted entrees are the hallmark here. The attentive service also deserves special mention. 34/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., 2837-6786.

Central & Lan Kwai Fong AMBER — Modern French. $$$$ Modern, inventive French cuisine meets attentiongrabbing decor. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066.

Brickhouse — Mexican. $$. Imagine street-side Mexican combined with hipster-chic décor and upbeat music. Phone reservations not allowed and queues form quickly at peak hours so early arrival recommended. G/F, 20A D’Aguilar St., 2810-0560.

Boqueria — Spanish. $$$ Feast on tasty tapas and bomba rice paellas at this chain from New York. 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2321-8681.

CAPRICE — French. $$$$ Three Michelin Stars. Splurge on haute cuisine at this French restaurant helmed by chef Fabrice Vulin. The gorgeous interior includes floor-to-ceiling windows. 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8860. j u n e 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 23

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dining | The Guide The Peak THE PEAK LOOKOUT — International. $$$ Offering an alfresco terrace with a view, this restaurant features an open, bright and airy environment—more like a mountain lodge than a country club—and excellent fare.

121 Peak Rd., 2849-1000.

Lung King Heen

Duddell’s

CHINA Tang — Chinese. $$$$. Sir David Tang’s latest Chinese fine-dine offers top delicacies from Beijing, Sichuan and Guangdong in a luxurious setting.

LUNG KING HEEN — Cantonese. $$$-$$$$ Three Michelin Stars. The name means “view of the dragon” and the floor-to-ceiling windows make the case. Stylish décor, flawless service and traditional as well as innovative dishes only add to the appeal. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8880.

Duddell’s — Cantonese. $$$. Serves Chinese fusion by former T’ang Court chef Siu Hin-chi.

The art pieces on display are another highlight.

Levels 3 & 4, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., 2525-9191.

Fatty Crab — Southeast Asian. $$$. A branch of the popular Fatty Crab Restaurant in New York. Expect a delectable mix of South-East Asian flavors. 11-13 Old Bailey St., 2521-2033.

INAGIKU — Japanese. $$$ The Hong Kong branch of one of Japan’s oldest and bestknown restaurants, it lives up to the buzz: authentic, delicious and quiveringly fresh.

4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 2805-0600.

ISOLA BAR & GRILL — Italian. $$$$ The glam factor is off the scale, with stunning harbor views and high ceilings, not to mention handmade pastas, pizzas, risottos and more.

Shop 3071-75, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., 2383-8765.

Repulse Bay SPICES — Pan-Asian. $$$ Below a glassy high-rise, this restaurant is devoted to showcasing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East.” It also offers a fantastic view of the South China Sea and the sandy shores below. G/F, The Arcade, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2821.

THE VERANDAH — Continental/International. $$$ Book brunch in time to get a seat at this popular spot. On other days, the a la carte menu never disappoints. Closed Mon. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2822.

SoHo Mayta

Mayta — Peruvian. $$$ Indulge in colorful and multi-textured dishes like seafood ceviche at one of LKF’s popular restos. 3/F, Grand Progress Building, 15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, 2790-0928. pierre — French. $$$$ Masterminded by threeMichelin-star chef Pierre Gagnaire, this is a bastion of fine French dining. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4001.

JASHAN — Indian. $$ Immediately impressive, with dim lighting, vermilion walls and colonial furnishings, Jashan offers an extensive menu, delicious food and hotel-level service. 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., 3105-5300.

POSTO PUBBLICO — American Italian. $$$ Hip Greenwich Village types come to get their fill of such dishes as veal meatballs and sandwiches of homemade mozzarella, eggplant and lashings of balsamic vinegar.

28 Elgin St., 2577-7160.

Yardbird

Sevva

L’Atelier De Joel Robuchon

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON — French. $$$$ The Frenchman named “Chef of the Century” by Gault Millau designs authentic dishes with exquisite finesse and precision, which are then turned out by highly trained chefs in the open kitchen. Shop 315 & 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2166-9000.

LIN HEUNG Lau— Cantonese. $$ The setup has changed little in more than 50 years and it still remains a popular hangout for those craving a bit of old Hong Kong nostalgia and really, really good food. Most people come here for daytime dim sum, but dinner’s great too. 160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556.

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SEVVA — Contemporary. $$$$ The brainchild of local socialite Bonnie Gokson, this 22,000-square-foot penthouse restaurant comes with a buzzing wraparound terrace.

The elegant eatery serves dishes drawn from Cantonese, Shanghainese, Indian and British culinary concepts. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., 2537-1388.

YELLOW DOOR KITCHEN — Sichuan. $$ Hong Kong’s first private kitchen, this favorite has been serving up fiery Sichuan cuisine since the early 1990s. 6/F, Cheung Hing Commercial Building, 37 Cochrane St., 2858-6555.

ZUMA — Japanese. $$$$ This is one goodlooking restaurant, split over two floors and linked by a sumptuous staircase. It’s the local branch of London’s famed eatery, offering a sophisticated twist on the traditional izakaya. 5-6/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3657-6388.

YARDBIRD — Yakitori. $$$ This is a no-frills yet achingly modern two-story yakitori joint in a trendy corner of the district. The skewers are mostly chicken-based, and taken from every part of the chicken’s body from the heart to the skin. Don’t forget to sample the house sake.

33-35 Bridges St., 2547-9273.

Tsim Sha Tsui

Angelini

ANGELINI — Italian. $$$-$$$$ With Italian native Marco Medaglia at the helm, Angelini serves up unpretentious food, with an emphasis on ingredients air-freighted from Italy three times a week. Also has a great harbor view. Mezzanine, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., 2733-8750.

dining

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FELIX — Fusion. $$$$ Still one of the swankiest restaurants in town, with Philippe Starck décor, modern food and famous bathrooms. It’s glam, contemporary and kid-free.

28/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, 2696-6778.

FOOK LAM MOON — Cantonese. $$$$ Devotees swear this place serves the best Cantonese cuisine in the world.

It’s been the place to go for southern Chinese delicacies for more than five decades. 55 Kimberley Rd., 2366-0286.

HUTONG — Northern Chinese. $$$$ Dark wood furnishings and a fabulous harbor view make for a modern-day Chinese dining hall. The food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine.

28/F, 1 Peking Rd., 3428-8342.

MORTON’S OF CHICAGO — Steak. $$$$ With huge slabs of prime, aged beef accompanied by what looks like the winning entries in a hard-fought vegetable show, Morton’s is one of the best steak restaurants in Hong Kong. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., 2732-2343.

Nobu

NOBU — Japanese. $$$$ Mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution, this famous restaurant deserves the hype.

Sushi is a must, as is the amazing black cod.

2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323.

Ruth’s Chris — Steak. $$$$ American steakhouse, with USDA Prime cuts served alongisde rich sides like spinach au gratin and tempura onion rings. Shop 108-110, 1/F, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2366-6000.

Spoon

SPOON — French. $$$$ Chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows, a fabulous harbor view and an innovative modern menu. Lobby, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323.

T’ANG COURT — Cantonese. $$$$ This little gem serves some of the city’s finest Cantonese cuisine. 1/F, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., 2132-7898. j u n e 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 25

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dining

Whisk — Modern European. $$$ Whisk is known for its contemporary European dishes and extensive wine list that is relatively more affordable than other fine diners. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., 2368-1111.

YE SHANGHAI — Shanghainese. $$$ With upscale cuisine served in shareable portions, this is the place for Shanghainese dishes like camphor-smoked duck with pancakes.

Also known for its interior full of fabulous chinoiserie. 6/F, The Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, 3 Canton Rd., 2376-3322.

Wan Chai

Bo Innovation

BO INNOVATION — Asian. $$$-$$$$ Experimental cuisine pairing local ingredients with delicacies imported from across the world. Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., 2850-8371.

Catalunya

NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT! Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418

www.outback.com.hk

Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823

Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan

Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai

Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay

Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728

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Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918

Catalunya — Spanish. $$$$ This 7,500 square feet of restaurant and bar space offers Catalan-style dishes such as roasted suckling pig and lobster rice.

G/F, Guardian House, 32 Oi Kwan Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-7900.

MADAM SIXTY EIGHT — European. $$$ At this posh eclectic eatery, an open kitchen faces the diners, with chefs readying exquisitely prepared dishes scurrying around. Shop 8, 1/F, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-2558.

THE PAWN — British. $$$ Serving fabulous food in a faithful restoration of an 1888 landmark building, The Pawn houses a bar and a restaurant with a roof and a breezy balcony overlooking Johnston Road.

The menu has modern British fare with a luxurious twist. 2/F, 62 Johnston Rd., 2866-3444.

WOOLOOMOOLOO — Australian/New Zealand. $$$ This steakhouse is several places at once: a laid-back wine bar and a casual drinks terrace on the rooftop, and a fine-dining steakhouse below. 31/F-Rooftop, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960.

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Drinks | The Guide

Bottoms Up A hot new gin bar is the talk of the town. By Adam White

Anyone who’s talking about up-andcoming neighborhood Sai Ying Pun is talking about gin bar Ping Pong 129, which recently burst onto the scene. You walk through a narrow, nondescript red door and down a set of steep steps into one of the best reveals in Hong Kong.

A double-height ceiling stretches above you, and a wide, open space is populated by sofas and tables. Hong Kong art lines the walls—including a King of Kowloon

Bars & Clubs

original—and a huge bar dominates the opposite side, lit up by an equally huge neon sign that says in Chinese, “Train Your Body.” The bar was once a ping pong hall, and original fixtures have been retained—from the vintage windows to the original railings. This is a uniquely open, uniquely cool space for Hong Kong.

Ping Pong 129 is a Spanish Gintonería—a gin and tonic bar.

Manager Juan Martinez Gregorio and

Azure — Stunning view, minimalist blue décor and great cocktails. 29/F, LKF Hotel, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 3518-9330.

Beijing Club — This impressive megaclub recently celebrated its sixth anniversary and is the biggest in town. Expect wet-look vinyl walls, gold-plated bathrooms and a youthful crowd. 2-3/F & 5/F, Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9983.

Angel’s Share

121BC — This import from Sydney, Australia offers biodynamic wines from Italian producers.

42-44 Peel St., Central, 2395-0200.

ANGEL’S SHARE — This unique drinking loft is specifically designed for whisky lovers.

Sourced from Scotland to Japan, there’s enough aged golden liquid here to suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-8388.

AQUA spirit — For cocktails with a killer vista, you can do no better than this swanky high-rise venue with an eagle’s eye view of the harbor. 30/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288.

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Blck brd — This chilled-out spot has an official “no loud music” policy, making it the perfect place for a few low-key drinks.

Located on the sixth floor, the outdoor terrace is a serene place to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2545-8555.

BLUE BAR — The upscale Blue Bar is a big hit with the cocktail set. Yes, the martinis are worth getting dressed up for. Lobby, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8888.

Café Gray Deluxe — Beside the seductively stretched bar are cozy booths for intimate lounging, and its 49th-floor perch guarantees breathtaking harbor views.

his partners have spent a year putting the bar together, sourcing some 40 gins from around the world and another 10 to 12 gins from craft distilleries within Spain. Each G&T is paired with a different garnish and tonic, intended to bring out the remarkably different flavor profiles of each concoction.

They come with a single large block of ice to minimize dilution, in huge Spanish balloon glasses to maximize the aroma. Try a G&T made with Gin Mare, a Mediterranean gin infused with rosemary, olives, basil and thyme.

Or try one made from Only gin from Barcelona, plus a large piece of lemon peel and Japanese Wilkinson tonic water. Citrus-packed and deceptively smooth, you could sip too many of these all night. Much of the alcohol is unique to the bar, right down to the Er Boquerón craft beer, brewed in Valencia with sea water.

LG/F, Nam Cheong House, 129 Second St., Sai Ying Pun, 9158-1584.

Cocktail lovers should try the Hong Kong Highball. 49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106.

Central Wine Club — This exclusive spot on Wyndham Street was designed with oenophiles in mind. Luxe, modern Baroque surrounds keep pace with the slow jazz and contemporary tunes. 3/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2147-3448.

CLUB @28 — This stylish bar has killer views, deadly cocktails and its very own outdoor oasis called The Pavilion. It’s members only, but you can join on arrival and it’s free. 28/F, Crowne Plaza Hotel, 8 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 3980-3300.

DRAGON-I — Watch the bold and the beautiful work the celeb-studded room. It’s usually packed with models, especially on Wednesday nights. Podium, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 3110-1222.

EXECUTIVE BAR — So quiet that the sound of a ninja’s sword slicing through silk would be cause for shushing. Well, not really, but it is quiet, Japanese and well-stocked with Scotch— the drink of the introspective man. 27/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 6710-2057.

For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at bars, restaurants and coffee shops).

28 W H E R E HONG KONG I j u n e 2014

Drinks GRAPPA’S CELLAR — This bustling after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians. B/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322.

MO BAR — The bar at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental is a sleek, upscale addition to the nightlife scene. G/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0077.

Ozone — Located 118 floors above the ground, this watering hole boasts a superlative title: the highest bar in Hong Kong. This nightspot is a must-see, especially due to its drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2263.

Jaa Bar

Jaa Bar — Located in a small alleyway off of Peel Street, Jaa Bar combines comfort and charm for an exclusive experience.

The centerpiece of the ornate enclave is a custom-made wooden bar pieced together from classical furniture pieces.

1 Pak Tsz Lane, Central, 2815-8887.

Quinary — Grab molecular cocktails in a chilledout lounge off Hollywood Road. Be impressed by local mixologist Antonio Lai’s creative drinks list. G/F, 56-58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-3223.

The Lawn

The Lawn — This outdoor garden is a genuine urban oasis, exuding a serene, intimate vibe and illuminated entirely by a few candles.

6/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106.

The Parlour — The kitschy-chic bar sits betwixt the equally droll west and east dining rooms, and looks like an exotic dive in 70s London Chinatown. Hullet House, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3988-0101.

KEE CLUB — A good concierge should be able to get you into this exclusive members-only club, where you can sip a cocktail and check out the Picassos, antiques and colonial-style service.

6/F, Yeung Kee Building, 32 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9000.

L’etage — With the feel of a true gentlemen’s club, this is a place for refined Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a traditionally made cocktail in one hand and a cigar in another.

It’s worth coming back just to watch head bartender Katsuhisa Hirakawa hand-carve spheres of ice for whisky. 22/F, Macau Yat Yuen Centre, 525 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2522-5300.

LE BOUDOIR — This Francophone hangout is all sultry drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery. The cocktails are stellar, too. B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central, 2530-3870.

LILY — Get buzzed in and out of Lily’s fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. Aesthetes will be delighted that so much attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue.

6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166.

Lion Rock — Lion Rock is the place to unwind and relax while having one (or more) of 193 signature cocktails. Enjoy the awesome view and weekly wine and whisky tastings.

3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel, 193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Mong Kok, 2622-6167.

M BAR — Set against the heights of Hong Kong’s skyline, the Mandarin Oriental’s M Bar makes for a ravishingly chic hangout. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4002.

Martini BAR — This stylish hotel bar has nightly entertainment, a range of cocktails beyond just martinis and is one of the few cigar lounges in town. G/F, The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2733-2995.

MCSORLEY’S ALE HOUSE — Woody, Irish and vaguely Victorian, McSorley’s is the biggest pub in SoHo. 55 Elgin St., Central, 2522-2646.

Red Bar

The Pawn

RED BAR — Located on a terrace atop IFC Mall, this funky destination bar has a breathtaking public outdoor area with harbor views. 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882.

THE PAWN — The modern British restaurant and bar, a former pawn shop, has an outdoor balcony from which to enjoy a view of Hong Kong’s 100-year-old trams. 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444.

RIEDEL ROOM — The world’s first Riedel Room offers exclusive wines to be enjoyed in Riedel crystal glassware. Lobby, JW Marriott Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2841-3836.

The Tonno — This complex features a bar, a clubbing zone, a restaurant, a live music lounge and karaoke rooms, taking “allaround entertainment” to a whole new level.

Head here for an epic marathon of dancing, drinking, Elton John hits, dart games and Shanghainese buns. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.

Sake Bar Ginn — Sake sommelier Ayuchi Momose is behind this upper-floor bar.

In addition to serving 100 types of sake and 30 Japanese tapas, she also imports special sakes by microbreweries. Shop 4C, 4/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2536-4355.

Salon de Ning — Decadent Shanghai art deco lounge with live music Tue-Thu. UG/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6705.

Vibes

SHORE — A chill outdoor space and one of the most extensive drinks selection in town. Newly renovated. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2915-1638.

VIBES — The Mira hotel’s svelte alfresco drinks venue is home to a stunning secret garden.

5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5999.

Staunton’s — Considered the best “peoplewatching spot” in Hong Kong, Staunton’s has the right equation for a chill evening drink. It also has an eclectic menu. 10-12 Staunton St., Central, 2973-6611.

VOLAR — Frequented by models and wannabes, Volar can be exclusive, but you can dance the night away to top DJs. B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510.

SUGAR — Sink into one of the sofas at this swanky rooftop bar and enjoy the amazing views of the harbor. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Quarry Bay, 3968-3738.

WOOLOOMOOLOO — This steakhouse outlet boasts a gorgeous rooftop with stunning views of Victoria Harbour and the Happy Valley horse racing track.

31/F, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960. j u n e 2014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 29

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ShopS+Services | The Guide

Hot Soles

Shopping Centers APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. Millennium City 5, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 3148-1200.

Stay cool in these summer-ready shoes. By Adele Wong

$650, Rivieras @ Kapok $1,700, Ash

$850, Ugg

$1,250, Sam Edelman @ Lane Crawford

Elements

ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous roof garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234.

HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8601.

$199, O’Neill World Cup Collection @ LCX

Hysan Place

HYSAN PLACE — This mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of high-quality dining options. 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222.

$1,090, Pedder Red

Ash Shop OT309, 3/F, Ocean Terminal, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-2450.

Lane Crawford 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-2288.

Pedder Red Shop 110, Cityplaza, 18 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Quarry Bay, 2886-9500.

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$459, Marks & Spencer

Kapok 5 St. Francis Yard, Wan Chai, 2520-0114.

Ugg 2 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 2893-1338.

LCX 3/F, Ocean Terminal, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, 3102-3668.

Marks & Spencer B-1/F, Central Tower, 22-28 Queen's Rd. Central, 2921-8323.

IFC Mall

IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international highend brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308.

HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089.

Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.

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ShopS+Services | The Guide ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2890-6823.

THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium.

Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols. 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3428-8086.

LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mongkok, 3514-9088, www.langhamplace.com.hk.

LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more.

Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-2166, www.hysan.com.hk.

Daydream Nation — A locally grown label that incorporates fashion with other art forms like theater, dance, music, film and visual arts.

They offer their own collection of clothing and accessories as well as works from local artists and indie bands. Daydream Nation Circus Shop, 2/F, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2817-6313.

Wudai Shiguo — This shop in the trendy Star Street neighborhood is a collaboration between a group of local designers and stocks American vintage -style fashion and accessories. 9B1 St. Francis St., Wan Chai, 2528-3800.

Department Stores G.O.D.

G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876.

Squarestreet

Squarestreet — Seriously hipster shoes and accessories. G/F, 15 Square St., Sheung Wan, 2362-1086.

Lane Crawford

One Peking — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier.

1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3417-3000.

Rise Commercial Building — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-4723.

TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 13-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket City’super, Page One books and a cinema.

1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.

Tang Tang Tang Tang

LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with must-have designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between.

3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388.

Tang tang tang tang — Sir David Tang's casual lifestyle store stocks everything from rice cookers to pyjamas. G/F, 66 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2525-2112.

Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist.

Shop 209, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-0238.

Shops, Boutiques and Local Designers

Walter Ma — Well-established designer offering luxury fashion. 174 Wellington St., Central, 2838-7655.

Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men.

Shop 123, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2104-7934.

Western Market — An Edwardian-styled building with restaurants and shops selling Chinese crafts and fabrics. 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 6029-2675.

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Joyce

JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 28101120; Shop 232, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944; Shop 106, Harbour City, 2-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-8128.

Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place

PRINCE’S BUILDING — Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkway to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uberfashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket.

10 Chater Rd., Central, 2500-0555.

Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant— the Fourth Floor —and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388.

Kapok — Offers meticulously selected international and local brands for menswear, womenswear, bags and accessories, as well as lifestyle products. G/F, 5, St Francis Yard, Wan Chai, 2549-9254.

SPY Henry Lau — Edgy and bold fashion for men and women. G/F, 64 Lee Garden Rd., Causeway Bay, 2317-6928.

PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema.

88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8900.

Wudai Shiguo

Shanghai Tang SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.

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ShopS+Services | The Guide SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections.

555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.

SPAS CHUAN SPA — This stunning spa focuses on the individual needs of each client through traditional Chinese medicine and theories, including yin and yang. Its consultants are qualified in Chinese medicine, massage and naturopathy. 41/F, Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3510, www.chuanspa.com.

and an extensive range of facial and body treatments in 23 rooms and suites. Other facilities include a 50-meter outdoor pool, fitness and exercise studios, a poolside grill restaurant and a tree-lined courtyard. 11/F, Grand Hyatt, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2588-1234, www.hongkong.grand.hyatt.com.

The Swank

THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freestanding boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-0842.

Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. Shop 220, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2735-4061.

YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 301-309 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3511-2222.

Tailors DAVID FASHIONs — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884.

L & K bespoke Tailor — G/F, Mirador Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278.

Nita Fashions — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim vSha Tsui. 2721-9990, www.nitafashions.com.

Punjab House — 5/F, Suite C, Golden Crown Court, 66-70 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612, www.punjabhouse.com.hk.

Raja Fashions — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624, www.raja-fashions.com.

Flawless

FLAWLESS — This all-in-one shop offers makeup and nail services as well as spa treatments in a spacious upper-level venue. 4/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2869-5868.

IYARA DAY SPA — This Central institution offers everything from manis and pedis to facials, waxing and massage treatments. 1/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2545-8638.

KIWI SPA — With light green glass, curved walls and soft light and gentle music, Kiwi offers quality foot and body massages that are affordable at the same time. iPads and headsets are available to use at your leisure while you're enjoying the treatments. 14/F, Century Square Building, 1-13 D'Aguilar St., Central, 2567-1333, www.kiwi-hk.com.

MANDARIN SPA — This luxe retreat has eight private treatment rooms, including two couples’ suites, each with private steam shower and pool. Its therapies combine ancient and contemporary techniques, and specialist practitioners offer treatments that incorporate ayurvedic philosophies and traditional Chinese medicine. 24/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4888, www.mandarinoriental.com/hongkong.

MEN’S SKIN CENTRE BY BELLA — This center has tailor-made treatments that focus on deep cleansing, acne treatment, and rehydration to brighten and improve your complexion.

It also offers laser hair removal services.

9/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-6352, www.bellaskin.com.

MIRASPA — It’s pampering for the 21st century.

The Mira Spa is comfortably futuristic, with purple and pure white accents and an indoor pool decorated with twinkling lights. Facilities include a jacuzzi plus steam and sauna rooms— and nifty waterbeds in the pre-treatment room.

B3/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5500, www.themirahotel.com.

REGAL fashion — G/F, Shop 15, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-6007.

Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 90-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423.

Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1251.

34 W H E R E HONG KONG I J u n e 2 0 1 4

Plateau Spa

PLATEAU SPA — This whopping 80,000-squarefoot spa offers overnight accommodation

Sense Of Touch

SENSE OF TOUCH — This award-winning day spa boasts an extensive menu, featuring such services as a couple’s deep tissue and detoxifying massage, a rose hydrating cocoon body wrap and a “forever young” facial. The lush spa also offers a range of exclusive signature treatments, including the Elemis hot stone therapy for body and face. 1-5/F, 52 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2526-6918, www.senseoftouch.com.hk.

THE PENINSULA SPA BY ESPA — This two-floor spa has sweeping harbor views. Designed by Henry Leung, the interior fuses contemporary and traditional Chinese elements. Much attention has been given to detail, including 100-percent Egyptian cotton robes and fully automated Clodagh Gemini treatment beds. 7/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2969-6682, www.hongkong.peninsula.com.

The Ritz-Carlton Spa

THE RITZ-CARLTON SPA BY ESPA — Get pampered at the highest hotel spa in the world.

Located on the 116th floor, this relaxing retreat looms over the city and offers majestic views of Victoria Harbour. Spa guests can also take a dip in the hotel's sky-high infinity pool after their treatments. 116/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2040, www.ritzcarlton.com/hongkong.

THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS — This urban sanctuary is everything you would expect from the Four Seasons: 22,000 square feet of sumptuousness, including Finnish saunas, an ice fountain, a crystal fountain, vitality pools and an amethyst crystal steam room. Two spa suites include a pool for two, day beds and a private bar. 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8900, www.fourseasons.com/hongkong.

TEN FEET TALL — Go to Ten Feet Tall for a slightly different foot massage experience in an exotic ambience. The foot massage center features

ShopS+Services

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bright and sunny beach cabanas with pine, bamboo, natural marble and bright décor.

The place’s signature treatments include genuine foot reflexology, shoulder and neck massage, pressure point massage and aromatic oil massage. 20-21/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2971-1010, www.tenfeettall.com.hk.

HAIR AIMEE AT THE SHANGRI-LA — Staffed by international stylists offering everything from bridal makeovers, haircuts, coloring and waves to manicures, pedicures and professional makeup application. 8/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-1339.

AIRPLAY BLOW DRY BAR — Get your hair and makeup done all at once at Airplay, and choose from different looks like “Sea Breeze” (wavy hair) or “Mojito” (playful curls). 7/F, W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2641-9888, www.airplaybar.com.

QG PRIVATE I SALON — Located in the Four Seasons, the flagship of the Private I group is suitably beautiful, with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out onto an astounding harbor view. Expect to find yourself rubbing shoulders with politicians, tycoons and the jet set. 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 2521-0070, www.privatei.com.hk.

NAILS NAIL NAIL — This is the place for innovative nails, including gel nails, airbrushing and the truly decadent one-carat diamond manicure, which is by appointment only. It also offers waxing and temporary tattoos. Shop 1091A, 1/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2366-9322, www.nailnail.com.hk.

NAIL SPA — Nail services and treatments for men and women are the specialty here, including French manicures and paraffin foot therapy. Gel and acrylic nails are available along with nail painting, embossed nail art, semi-precious gemstones, crystal embossing and graduated nail painting. 1/F, 8 Pak Sha Rd., Causeway Bay, 2478-9333, www.nailspa.com.hk.

The Loft

THE LOFT — A spin-off of The Nail Library in Sheung Wan, this new Central shop right by the escalators offers men’s barbering services, facials as well as hand and foot spa treatments—and of course, manicures and pedicures. 2/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2618-8623.

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Navigate | The Guide

Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call the Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm.

Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions, plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals, as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.

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Get Moving

Octopus Cards

Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.

These are “wave-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.

Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices.

Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English, but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.

The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted.

Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them.

Three types of Octopus cards are available.

The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value.

The “Sold Octopus” costs $48, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.

Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.

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Navigate Buses

Upclose and Personal Explore Hong Kong with an intimate guided tour.

Hong Kong has two major bus companies: Kowloon Motor Bus — 2745-4466, www.kmb.hk. citybus / New World First BUS — 2136-8888/2873-0818, www.nwstbus.com.hk.

Sights & Attractions AVENUE OF STARS — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes’ handprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars.

There's also a statue of martial artist Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly Symphony of Lights.

It's the only place where music plays over loudspeakers, although the light display can be seen around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront.

BANK OF CHINA TOWER — I. M. Pei designed this 70-story building and bank headquarters to resemble stalks of bamboo.

1 Garden Rd., Central.

Daisann McLane is the founder of Little Adventures, a company that provides travelers with a personalized experience of the real Hong Kong. She tells Chloe Tong about the best places to eat dim sum, as well as one of her most memorable adventures.

What is Little Adventures?

We are a unique company that creates private walks, food experiences, and small group events for anyone interested in digging deeper into Hong Kong and its unique food and culture.

What do you do?

We take our guests to a hidden, delicious Hong Kong that would take you months or years to find on your own. All Little Adventures hosts and consultants are expert professionals in various fields.

From a culinary point of view, the skyrocketing rent has deeply impacted the traditional foods in Hong Kong and we have seen an acceleration of places going out of business because their landlords would overnight quadruple their rent. Some of my favorite places to eat have disappeared.

What is your favorite place for dim sum?

We actually do a walk where we take people to eat dim sum at three different places. Some places are Fu Sing, Seventh Son and Kin’s Kitchen.

But, depending on what people are looking for, we would take them to different places. Dim sum is always an adventure in Hong Kong. There are always new places to discover!

What was your most memorable “Little Adventure”?

A lawyer came once from the States.

I asked her whether there was anything she really liked to do. She said, “I always want to [go to] the court rooms whenever I travel. For me, it’s like going to church.” It happened that one of Nancy Kissel’s trials (one of Hong Kong’s most publicized murder trials in the past 25 years) was going on and we took the lawyer to the courtroom!

Fu Sing Seafood Restaurant: 1/F, 68 Yee Wo St., Causeway Bay, 2504-4228.

How has Hong Kong’s landscape changed over the past 10 years?

For more details about Little Adventures, go to www.littleadventuresinhongkong.com.

Seventh Son: 5-6/F, Kwan Chart Tower, 6 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 2892-2888.

Kin’s Kitchen: 5/F, W Square, 314-324 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2571-0913.

Big Buddha

BIG BUDDHA — One of the world’s largest Buddhas, the Tian Tan Buddha took 12 years to build and sits on a lotus throne atop Lantau Island. The more than 200 steps to the top are open from 10am to 6pm daily and definitely recommended for the spectacular mountain views. Special admission tickets are available and include a vegetarian meal. Also check out the nearby Po Lin Monastery and the Wisdom Path. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and then Bus 23 to Ngong Ping.

CHI LIN NUNNERY — An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It’s a 23,600-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1997. It’s centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds. Vegetarian food is available. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888.

CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE — Finished in time to host the handover ceremony in July 1997, the center’s roof was designed to look like a seabird’s wings in flight.

1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, 2582-8888.

HONG KONG DISNEYLAND — Take a trip back to the 1900s on Main Street, catch a train to Fantasyland, float down the Rivers of Adventure, catch a show or blast through outer space in Tomorrowland. When you’re done charting your exotic surroundings take a moment to dine, shop or cavort with the various Disney characters who roam the park. It’s easy to get to via MTR, bus or car. See park.hongkongdisneyland. com for transportation details. Lantau Island, 1-830-830.

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Hong Kong Dolphinwatch — Catch a glimpse of the pink dolphins, an animal so unique to these waters that it was named the official mascot of Hong Kong’s 1997 handover. Tours depart every Wed, Fri and Sun from the Kowloon Hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui at 9am, or from Tung Chung. The cruise takes up to five hours, and if no dolphins are seen, the company provides a free “go-again guarantee.” $380 for adults, $190 for children under 12, $50 for babies under 3, with proceeds going to dolphin research. Call 2984-1414 or visit www.hkdolphinwatch.com.

Sam’s The Man

HONG KONG ZOOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL GARDENS — Home to 12 endangered species, the zoo successfully breeds rare birds and orangutans.

Established in 1871, the park retains all the Victorian accents from that era and is an idyllic spot in the middle of the city.

Admission free. Open daily 6am-7pm.

Garden Rd., Central. A staircase from Upper Albert Rd. leads to the main entrance.

(Just ask his customers)

OPEN-TOP BUS TOUR — One Big Bus day tour ticket includes 24-hour hop-on-hop-off access to the red tour (Hong Kong Island) and the blue tour (Kowloon), as well as prerecorded commentary in 10 languages and other perks. Unit KP-38, 1/F, Kowloon Star Ferry Pier, Tsim Sha Tsui, 3102-9021.

Peak Tram

PEAK TRAM AND VICTORIA PEAK — The world’s steepest funicular railway hauls passengers up Victoria Peak in approximately eight minutes. Once at the top, enjoy panoramic views of the city, or check out the restaurants, shops and various attractions at the Peak Galleria and Peak Tower. The tram runs daily 7am-midnight, tickets $28 one-way, $40 round trip. Garden Road and Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2522-0922.

SIK SIK YUEN WONG TAI SIN TEMPLE — This active Buddhist temple is large and colorful with beautiful adjoining gardens.

Have your fortune told by palm readers in the main arcade. Open 7am-5:30pm. A small donation is expected. Follow signs from Wong Tai Sin MTR station. 2327-8141.

Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon.

Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147

Man Mo Temple

MAN MO TEMPLE — This temple was built in 1847 to honor the God of Literature, Man Cheong, and the God of War, Mo Tai. A Grade 1 historical building, it is one of biggest tourist attractions in Central.

124-126 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan.

Star Ferry

STAR FERRY — Cross Victoria Harbour between Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon Peninsula on the Star Ferry.

These open-deck ferries are one of Hong Kong’s most recognizable attractions and a common, cheap—and pleasant—form of transportation. Take the MTR to Central or Tsim Sha Tsui and follow the signs.

Ngong Ping 360

NGONG PING 360 — Home to a theater, teahouse, nature center, cultural themed village and more, Ngong Ping 360 is best known for its 5.7-kilometer cable-car service that offers panoramic views of Lantau Island’s lush valleys, the South China Sea and the world-famous Tian Tan Buddha. Start from Tung Chung Station, 3666-0606.

OCEAN PARK — Pay a visit to Hong Kong’s two pandas, take a cable car, then prepare for a good scream on Ocean Park's Turbo Drop thrill ride. Remember to check out the Grand Aquarium as well. Aberdeen, 3923-2323.

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ST. JOHN’S CATHEDRAL — A beautiful cathedral built in the shape of a cross. Open daily from 7am to 6pm for quiet prayer and meditation. Take the MTR to Central Station Exit K.

Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery

TEN THOUSAND BUDDHAS MONASTERY — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800

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Buddhas stored in three temples, four pavilions and a five-story pagoda. The one that you’re likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk Yuet Kai, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin MTR, Exit B, 2691-1067, www.10kbuddhas.org.

TAI O — This charming fishing village is a maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the very tip of Lantau Island. It’s a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, the picturesque Tin Hau Temple and a couple of interesting little museums. Take a ferry from Central.

Embassies & Consulates Argentina 2523-3208; Australia 2827-8881; Bangladesh 2827-4278; Belgium 2524-3111; Brazil 2525-7002; Canada 3719-4700; Chile 2827-1826; China (China Travel) 2853-3888; Colombia 2545-8547; Czech Republic 2802-2212; Egypt 2827-0668; Finland 2525-5385; France 3752-9900; Germany 2105-8788; Greece 2774-1682; India 3970-9900; Israel 2821-7500; Italy 2522-0033; Japan 2522-1184; Korea 25294141; Laos 2544-1186; Malaysia 2821-0800; Mexico 2511-3305; Netherlands 25229200; New Zealand 2525-5044; Pakistan 2827-0295; Philippines 2823-8501; Peru 2868-2622; Poland 2840-0779; Russia 2877-7188; Singapore 2527-2212; Spain 2525-3041; Sweden 2521-1212; Switzerland 3509-5000; Taiwan 2530-1187; Thailand 2521-6481; Turkey 2572-1331; United Arab Emirates 2866-1823; United Kingdom 2901-3000; USA 2523-9011; Venezuela 2730-8099; Vietnam 2591-4510.

Financial Matters Generally, business hours are weekdays 9am-5pm, with a lunch hour from 1pm2pm, and Saturdays 9am-1pm. The local currency is the Hong Kong dollar. There is no central mint; instead, notes are issued by three separate private banks and the city’s Monetary Authority. The Hong Kong dollar is pegged to the US dollar at a rate of approximately US$1 to HK$7.75.

Denominations include $10, $20, $50, $100, $500 and $1,000 notes. Coins come in denominations of 10, 20 and 50 cents, and one, two, five and 10 dollars.

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BANKS — Major banks are open weekdays 9am-4:30pm, and Saturdays 9am12:30pm. Banks are closed Sundays and public holidays. Some services, such as foreign exchange-related transactions, are not available at banks one hour before closing. The following details are for the banks’ main offices, call for retail locations: Bank of America, 41/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 2847-5222; Citibank, Citibank Tower, 3 Garden Rd., Central, 2868-8888; HSBC, 1 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2233-3000; Standard Chartered Bank, 4 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2886-8868.

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1 Counting the Ten Thousand

9 Shaking fortune-telling

Buddhas at the eponymous hilltop monastery near Sha Tin.

bamboo sticks at the Wong Tai Sin Temple.

2 Dressing up for high tea at

!0 Saying hi to Bruce Lee at the Avenue of Stars, Tsim Sha Tsui.

The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6772.

3 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach, Lantau Island.

!1 Shopping at Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay.

!2 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. the Temple Street Night Market, Gough Street, Central.

Yau Ma Tei. !3 Hiking along the beautiful Sai Kung peninsula.

5 Spotting endangered white dolphins with Dolphinwatch !4 Riding the cable car over off Lantau Island, 2984-1414.

Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Tian Tan Buddha (Big Buddha).

6 Checking out pandas at Ocean Park. Aberdeen, Lantau Island.

3923-2323. !5 Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at 7 Dining aboard the kitschy-cool Jumbo Floating the Jade Market. Kansu and Restaurant. Shum Wan Pier Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei. Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, !6 Slurping oysters for brunch Aberdeen, 2553-9111. at Cafe Deco. 1-2/F, The Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., 2849-5111.

8 Cruising Victoria Harbour on the Duk Ling, an authentic !7 Setting your watch by the Chinese fishing junk, Noonday Gun. 221 Gloucester 2573-5282.

Rd., Causeway Bay.

4 Having our palms read at

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!8 Snaking through the high-rises on the Mid-Levels Escalator. Cochrane, Shelley and Peel Streets, Central. !9 Meeting Pui Pui, our famous crocodile, at the eco-friendly Hong Kong Wetland Park.

Tin Shui Wai, New Territories, 2708-8885. @0 Taking the Peak Tram to visit Hong Kong celebrities at Madame Tussauds. Shop P101, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., 2849-6966. @1 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood.

23-35 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. @2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building to be constructed without nails.

5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill. @3 Taking the oldest ride in Hong Kong—a tram from Western (Sheung Wan) to Causeway Bay.

@4 Enjoying free traditional kung fu demonstrations and cultural performances at Kowloon Park every Sunday from 2:30–4:30pm.

Weather permitting. @5 Taking a romantic trip from Central to Tsim Sha Tsui on the famous Star Ferry. @6 Walking down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defence, 2569-1500. @7 Drinking in the view at a panoramic watering hole like Eyebar. 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2487-3988. @8 Checking out the old Kowloon-Canton Railway Clock Tower. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. @9 Getting a shave and a trim at the Mandarin Barber.

Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4088. #0 Bird watching at the Mai Po Marshes. Mai Po, 2526-4473.

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