M ay 2 014
the complete guide to go
速
Hong Kong
Top brunch spots Spring fashion Explore Wong Tai Sin
Culture Club Art fair season in Hong Kong
where Hong Kong 5.2014 ®
the guide
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06 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events
14 art + culture Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening
20 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town
26 Drinks Our favorite places to sip a cocktail
38 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot
40 Map Kowloon & Hong Kong Island
Also inside 28 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers
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34 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info
features
42 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences
8 Just Browsing Top art fairs in Hong Kong this month
on the cover
20 Brunch Crunch
38 Temple Tour
34
A closer look at Wong Tai Sin, home to some of Hong Kong’s best-known holy sites.
wheretraveler.com The website from the editors of Where Magazine. Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.
Photo: Asia Contemporary Art Show
Coolest brunch spots in town
M ay 2 014
the coMplete guide to go
®
Hong Kong
Top brunch spoTs spring fashion ExplorE Wong Tai sin
culTurE club Art fair season in Hong Kong
May is all about the arts in Hong Kong. From international shows to locally organized fairs, there’s something out there for everyone. This beautiful work by Zhao Kai Lin, called “Quiet Moment,” can be seen at the Asia Contemporary Art Show. Learn more on p.8. M ay 2 0 14 I WHERE hong k o n g 3
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hot dates Hong Kong By Evelyn Lok
May 2-3
Silent No More This is a live-orchestrated double-bill screening of Charlie Chaplin flicks. First up is the iconic Tramp's first ever appearance, in the short "Kid Auto Races at Venice" (1914), followed by his legendary "City Lights" (1931). It's a little known fact that Chaplin composed the music for "City Lights," and Frank Strobel leads the HK Philharmonic in a live performance to accompany the film. May 2-3, 9pm. Concert Hall, Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $120-280 from www.urbtix.hk.
May 10-25
From May 2 L’Amour for Arts Introducing more than 120 events in two months, Le French May brings one of the most diversified arts programs to Hong Kong every year. This year, it’s also the 50th anniversary of Sino-France diplomati crelations, which has influenced the theme. Expect a comprehensive look at legendary 20th century Chinese artists in Paris at the Museum of Art, an enigmatic French film festival looking at China, and a whole host of performance arts, including collaborations with the Hong Kong Sinfonietta and even a jazzy interlude by the “Hong Kong New Music Ensemble.” Also watch out for Le French GourMay, which will bring the culture of Rhone Valley wines and French gastronomy to Hong Kong. May 2-Jun 28. Various locations. See www.lefrenchmay.com for details and ticketing.
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A Touching Tale Award-winning director Anthony Chan brings Frederick Knott’s 1966 play “Wait Until Dark” (popularized by the 1967 film starring Audrey Hepburn) to Hong Kong. When a drug stash goes missing, a trio of gangsters breaks into the home of blind housewife Susy, who must find her way to truth and safety purely with her sense of touch. You'll be on the edge of your seat. The play is in Cantonese with Chinese and English surtitles. May 10, 13-17, 20-24, 7:45pm; 11, 17-18, 24-25, 2:45pm. Theatre, City Hall, 5 Edinburgh Place, Central. $140-280 from www.urbtix.hk.
hot dates May 1
May 10-11
Spanish Flair
Get Punk’d
52-54 Wellington St., Central, 2167-8985. $250 in advance from The Globe, G/F, Garley Building, 45-53A Graham St., Central; $290 at the door.
Hosted by the Spanish Chamber of Commerce, the fourth “La Feria” will be held at Cyberport, bringing a ton of delicious gourmet treats, Spanish products, as well as demos and competitions by the 20 exhibitors at the fair. The highlight of the event will almost certainly be the traditional flamenco and musical performances. Noon-8pm. Ocean View Court & Sea View Terrace, The Arcade, Cyberport, 100 Cyberport Rd., Pok Fu Lam. $100-150 on or before May 9. $120-200 at the door; Free for kids below 12.
May 15-18
May 8-10
May 10
Who’s Line?
Tall Tales
Lyrical Moment
Get excited for this month’s gigs at Punchline Comedy, because they’re bringing four of the original UK cast members of “Whose Line Is It Anyway?” to Hong Kong. Comedy giants each in their own right, Andy Smart, Stephen Frost, Steven Steen and Ian Coppinger will step to the stage this May to play all the original improv games and put their comic genius to the test. As the only Irishman on the show, we’re expecting Coppinger to ace the Irish Drinking Song. May 17's gig will be at Grappa's Cellar (Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322). May 15, 18, 8pm; 16, 17, 9pm.
Brooklyn native and Conan/Comedy Central regular Dwayne Perkins is the man with the suave, steady delivery and the big smile. Rather than bombard the audience with punchlines on punchlines, he takes his time with hilarious storytelling. The multiple-time TakeOut guest is gracing the Hong Kong stage once more in May. The opening night will be at Champs Bar, and the next two nights will be at TakeOut Comedy in SoHo. May 8, 8pm; 9-10, 9pm. Take
Contemporary Chinese music composer Zhao Jiping’s pieces are highly acclaimed for their lyrical, poetic qualities. It’s not the first time he’s worked with the HK Chinese Orchestra, which has even inducted Zhao’s works its regular repertoire. In this concert, the orchestra is also bringing a group of world-renowned virtuosi on stage, including Belgium Cellist Marie Hallynck and French Saxophonist Christian Wirth. You’ll get to hear Zhao’s enchanting tunes: from an earlier orchestral work, “Festival at Chang’an,” a cinematic score for the film “The True Hearted,” and more.
Vancouver's legendary hardcore punk band D.O.A. has been around for 35 years, and is widely credited as a pioneer of the genre. Its punk sounds are all the better with rock 'n' roll, reggae, metal and ska thrown in for good measure. Backstage Live, 1/F, Somptueux Central,
Tamarind, 2/F, Sun Hung Kai Centre, 30 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2827-7777. $290 before May 1, $340 thereafter, from www.cityline.com.
Out Comedy, 34 Elgin St., Central. Also Champs Bar, B/F, The Charterhouse Hotel, 209-219 Wan Chai Rd., Wan Chai, 2892-3386. $250-300 from www.takeoutcomedy.com.
8pm. Hong Kong Cultural Centre Concert Hall, $100-300 from www.urbtix.hk.
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Just Browsing A round-up of the hottest art fairs this month. By Evelyn Lok and Adele Wong
M
ay is Hong Kong’s most exciting month for art and culture, with scores of art fairs and festivals coming to the city and even more galleries showing quality art alongside them. Add a piece or two to your collection while you’re in town.
A Modern Affair From contemporary concepts to abstract allusions, there’s a piece for everyone here.
Art Basel Hong Kong
Duane Hanson at Art Basel
Courtesy of Art Basel
Hong Kong’s number one art event of the year is rolling around for its second edition. Art Basel Hong Kong consists of four distinct sections: Galleries, featuring works procured by modern and contemporary galleries from across the world; Insights, featuring works specifically curated by galleries in the Asia-pacific region; Discoveries, featuring emerging artists; and Encounters, featuring large-scale sculptures and installations. New this year is the Film section, which will be a three-day program that offers screenings curated by Beijing and Zurich-based curator, Li Zhenhua. Art Basel will be open to the public for four full days at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre in Wan Chai. Tickets start from $250 for a single-day entry for two; there’s also a vernissage, or private viewing, available at $850 per head on May 14, the day before the public viewings. Curious intellectuals can also take part in the various talks and seminars held at the fair during all four days. May 15-18. Hong Kong Convention Centre, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, www.artbasel.com/ en/Hong-Kong. Tickets are $250-850 available at the venue or from www.hkticketing.com.
Melora Kuhn at Art Basel 8 W H E R E HONG KONG I m ay 2 0 1 4
Yang Yongliang at Art Basel
Courtesy of Art Basel
Courtesy of Art Basel
Zao Wou-ki at Art Basel
Chai Wan Mei This annual event, which started in 2011, is a local celebration of art and design, held in the burgeoning industrial/artsy district of Chai Wan. Chai Wan Mei will showcase mostly local art at the large warehouse spaces, rooftops and ground-level open spaces in Chai Wan. A cutting-edge selection of fine art exhibitions, “guerrilla art interventions,” as well as open air film screenings, artist performances, workshops, fashion pop-ups and open studio cocktail events round out the itinerary. Operating in conjunction with Art Basel this year, there will be a free shuttle bus that takes you from Central to Chai Wan via the Hong Kong Convention Centre in Wan Chai. May 16-17. Chai Wan, chaiwanmei.com. Free.
Photo credit: Robert Wedemeyer Projects; Courtesy of Art Basel
Yunhee Min at Art Basel
Go With the Flow Meet and greet with gallery owners and fellow connoisseurs during a one-night-only open house.
Art Gallery Night
Copyright Yang Yongliang & Galerie Paris-Beijing; Courtesy of Art Basel
Organized by the Hong Kong Art Galleries Association to coincide with Art Basel, 40 of Hong Kong’s galleries from across the city will be opening their doors till 10:30pm on May 13 to welcome art lovers for a leisurely night of browsing. Both Asian and international artists will be showcased, and select galleries will also be hosting educational talks throughout the night. Since the galleries are scattered throughout Hong Kong Island (Sheung Wan, Central, Aberdeen, Chai Wan and Sha Tin), it’s best to plan ahead of time. May 13. Various galleries across the city, check www.hk-aga.org/ for details. Free.
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Asia Contemporary Art Show Taking over five floors of the Conrad Hotel, the fourth edition of Asia Contemporary Art Show will be showcasing a line-up of 100 exhibiting galleries, with emerging and mid-career artists from all over the world. Hong Kong, China, Japan, the United States, Spain and Russia are just some of the countries that will have representative artworks and galleries exhibiting at the show. This year’s theme is “‘Bringing a World of Art to Hong Kong,” with works from celebrated artists such as Andy Warhol, Sir Peter Blake, Banksy, Zhao Kailin, and Yoshio Yoshimura, as well as a diverse selection of emerging artists from across the globe. Art lovers will also have a chance to meet and interact with more than 70 artists who will be attending the show this year.
Joel Moens de Hase at Asia Contemporary
May 15-18. Conrad Hotel Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2810-8366. Tickets start at $120 and are available at www.asiacontemporaryart.com/tickets.
Yoo, Sun-Tai at Asia Contemporary
Zhao Kailin at Asia Contemporary
Andy Warhol at Asia Contemporary 10 W H E R E HONG KONG I m ay 2 0 1 4
Joel Moens de Hase at Asia Contemporary
Hong Kong Contemporary A hotel-hosted art fair with a contemporary flair, the Hong Kong Contemporary will take place at The Excelsior, with a VIP private view beginning a day after Art Basel HK’s opening. Reasonable prices and leisurely viewings are the aims here, as well an introduction to local and international art.
Yin Jun at Hong Kong Contemporary
Moon Soo Jung at Hong Kong Contemporary
May 16-19. The Excelsior Hotel, 281 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2894-8888. Tickets are $50 at the door or from www.hkc.com.co.
Asia International Arts & Antiques Fair
Jurassic Art Are 200-year-old teacups more your thing? These antiques fairs will be right up your alley.
Asia International Arts & Antiques Fair
Asia International Arts & Antiques Fair
International Antiques Fair
Get your fix of buddha statues, bronzes, jade pieces, musical instruments and rare books at the ninth annual Asia International Arts & Antiques Fair in Kowloon Bay. This three-day fair will feature more than 40 exhibitors, including Art Futures Group, Ling Gallery and Nan Shan Arts.
Running the weekend after Art Basel HK, the International Antiques Fair (formerly known as the International Antiques & Arts Expo) will be featuring rare and fancy collectible antiques such as porcelain, ceramics, furniture and timepieces.
May 24-26. Grand Rotunda, 2-3/F, Kowloon Bay International Trade and Exhibition Centre, 1 Trademart Drive, Kowloon Bay, www.aiaa.com.hk. $25 admission.
Asia International Arts & Antiques Fair
May 24-26. Hall 5B & 5C, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai. Free admission.
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Tel: 2730 1251
where
the guide French Feast Rh么ne Valley is the designated wine region for this year's Le French GourMay (see Hot Dates on p.6). In response, French fine-dine Spoon has organized a six-course wine dinner showcasing Rh么ne Valley family estate E. Guigal's various vintages, from a Crozes-Heritage Blanc 2011 to a Condrieu La Doriane 2012. The meal will be accompanied by line-caught seabass, sauteed lamb and a host of other French specialties. $2,288 per head, not including service. InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2313-2256.
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Art+culture | The Guide
In the Spotlight Two modern art exhibitions you need to check out. By Evelyn Lok
Mark Bradford
Urban Jungle
Honestly, Now
L.A.-based artist Mark Bradford is known for his collage work, and in his eponymously named exhibition at White Cube he’s created a new series of works, citing our densely populated city as inspiration. Taking architectural blueprints from Hong Kong public housing units, and found objects like billboard posters and newsprint, he’s layered all of them to create a buzzing and complex, and incredibly captivating “social abstraction.”
Above Second gallery is known for hosting regular artist residencies, and this time they’re bringing UK artist D*Face to Hong Kong—just in time for Art Basel. In this exhibition, “Honestly Dishonest,” D*Face brings his signature pop culture mishmash of cartoon facial features: an intermingling of references that show his fascination with the modern man’s increasing appetite for information.
May 14–Aug 30. White Cube Hong Kong, 50 Connaught Rd. Central, 2592-2000.
D*Face
May 16-July 6, Above Second, G/F, 9 First St., Sai Ying Pun, 3483-7950.
D*Face
Antiques ALTFIELD GALLERY — Altfield Gallery deals in Southeast Asian sculpture and decorative arts, antique maps and topographical prints relating to Asia, as well as Chinese and Tibetan carpets. Altfield also produces a range of reproduction furniture and accessories in the Chinoiserie style. Shipping available. Shop 248-9, 2/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-6370, www.altfield.com.hk. ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUES — The three-story shop houses large collections of Qing dynasty porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic stone and bronze sculptures and buddhas, and terracotta sculptures from China and South-Eastern Asia are found in the viewing galleries, plus there are over 200 paintings in the extensive ancestral scroll collection. G/F, 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848.
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DRAGON CULTURE — Specializes in dinosaur egg fossils, Han Dynasty terracotta, Tang sculptures and Ming porcelain figures. 231 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-8098, www.dragonculture.com.hk. JOYCE GALLERY — Specializing in ancient sculptures and archaic bronzes from across China, Joyce displays a collection of antiquities dating to the Shang dynasty, including ancient bronzes, stone carvings, gold and silver ware, jade, pottery and Buddhist works. It guarantees its descriptions of the period and history of its items and offers a full refund if the purchased item does not match the description. Shop 1, 123 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-1869, www.joycegallery.com.
Lam & Co Antiquities
LAM & CO ANTIQUITIES — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silver ware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offers repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services. 2/F, 151 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877, www.lamantiquities.com. OI LING ANTIQUES — Oi Ling's Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items dating as far back as the Neolithic era. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2815-9422, www.oilingantiques.com.
You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.
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Art+culture | The Guide WATTIS FINE ART — Specializes in antique maps of Asia, and historical photographs and prints of China, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia. 2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302, www.wattis.com.hk.
Galleries 10 CHANCERY LANE GALLERY — Focusing on established and emerging international artists, 10 Chancery Lane consists of two large gallery spaces. It holds exhibitions of sculptures, paintings, photographs, installations and videos, as well as performances by renowned artists. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, SoHo, 2810-0065, www.10chancerylanegallery.com. AGNèS B. LIBRAIRIE GALERIE — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnès b. has a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world. G/F, 118 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2869-5505, www.agnesb.com. ALISAN FINE ARTS — This well-established gallery has organized more than 100 exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world. Run by respected art-world figure Alice King, who has worked with the Guggenheim Museum, it also mounts exhibitions for overseas venues. Room 2305, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091, www.alisan.com.hk. ARCH ANGEL ART GALLERY — Arch angel Art Gallery features a collection of contemporary Vietnamese and Southeast Asian paintings acquired directly from the artists. Some of the paintings are from founder Koos Groot's private collection. 30 Peel St., Central, 2851-6882. AP Contemporary— AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2148, www.apcontemporary.com. ASIA FINE ART — Dedicated to promoting young Asian artists at affordable prices, this gallery has regular exhibitions of work from China, Vietnam and Indonesia and Myanmar for sale on site and online. 14 Sik On St., Wan Chai (entrance at 99 Queen’s Rd. East), 2522-0405, www.asia-fineart.com.
Asia Society Hong Kong
ASIA SOCIETY HONG KONG — Asia Society Hong Kong's big, brand-spankin’-new headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences—97 percent of which are open to 16 W H E R E HONG KONG I m ay 2 0 1 4
the public—the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. Closed Mon. G/F, 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511, www.asiasociety.org/ hong-kong. BEN BROWN FINE ARTS — After 10 years at Sotheby’s and two more at a private gallery, Ben Brown and his wife sought to create a space that housed pieces reflective of their tastes—primarily on European modern and contemporary artworks. 301 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2522-9600, www.benbrownfinearts.com. THE CAT STREET GALLERY — Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the world. 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006, www.thecatstreetgallery.com. CONNOISSEUR ART GALLERY — Specializing in contemporary Chinese fine art since 1989, Connoisseur features such acclaimed artists as Paris-based Jia Juan-li, renowned Guangzhou artist Zhang Da-zhong and still life artist Liu Ying-zhao. Shop G3, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, One Hollywood Rd., Central, 28685358, www.connoisseur-art.com. CONTEMPORARY BY ANGELA LI — Perhaps best known for introducing Chinese artists Chen Jiagang and Liao Yibai to the art world, CBAL boasts a lovely space and a carefully curated exhibition program. G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3571-8200, www.cbal.com.hk.
Galerie Du Monde
GALERIE DU MONDE — Galerie du Monde hosts exhibitions by Chinese artists including Li Shuang, Le Longyao, Yu Xiaohui, Hon Chifun and Pan Xun. Its conservation studio provides a complete restoration service for works of art on paper and canvas. Shop 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Center, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529, www.galeriedumonde.com. GROTTO FINE ART — Curated by Henry Au-yeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery represents local artists, with an interest in new and avant-garde art forms. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixedmedia and installation pieces. 2/F, 31C-D Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270, www.grottofineart.com. HANART TZ GALLERY — A specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone. 401 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019, www.hanart.com.
De Sarthe Gallery
DE SARTHE GALLERY — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the U.S. and Europe, de Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, Club Lusitano, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896, desarthe.com. ESPACE LOUIS VUITTON — LV has been invading gallery spaces for the past half decade, stirring unrest in the hearts of hard-line art critics but appreciation in the eyes of those beholders who’re able to look past reservations about brand-name commercialism. Espace Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton Mansion, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 8100-1182. GAGOSIAN GALLERY — With 14 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. They opened their doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an all-new exhibition by Damien Hirst—Gagosian only exhibits the crème-de-lacrème of the art world. Closed Mon. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555, www.gagosian.com.
Opera Gallery
OPERA GALLERY — Opera Gallery features works by world-famous international artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Gerard Rancinan and Lita Cabellut, among others. W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-1208, www.operagallery.com. PICTURE THIS — The city’s largest affordable art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children’s rooms, and sporting prints. Suite 1308, 13/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820, www.picturethiscollection.com.
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Art+culture
Plum Blossoms Gallery
PLUM BLOSSOMS GALLERY — Recognized for its exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection of museum-quality ancient textiles, Plum Blossoms is an established platform for the promotion of both ancient and modern arts. 14/F, Cheung Tak Building, 30 Heung Yip Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2521-2189, www. plumblossoms.com.
White Cube
WHITE CUBE — One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first non-UK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials—for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. Closed Sun-Mon. G-1/F, 50 Connaught Rd. Central, 2592-2000, www.whitecube.com.
Museums FLAGSTAFF HOUSE MUSEUM OF TEAWARE — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-inchief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Closed Tue. 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Hong Kong Park, Central, 2869-0690, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG FILM ARCHIVE — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Tuesdays. 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139. HONG KONG HERITAGE MUSEUM — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. It features permanent exhibitions on the New Territories, Cantonese opera and a Children’s Discovery Gallery. Closed Tues. 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188, www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk 18 W H E R E HONG KONG I m ay 2 0 1 4
Art+culture
Y fascinating monuments. Closed Thu. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863, hk.history.museum.
What happened at the Pinewood Battery? *
Hong Kong Maritime Museum
HONG KONG MARITIME MUSEUM — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong's growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier No. 8, 3713-2500, www.hkmaritimemuseum.org. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF ART — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0116, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF HISTORY — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. Closed Tue. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042, hk.history.museum.
Hong Kong Museum Of Medical Sciences
HONG KONG MUSEUM OF MEDICAL SCIENCES — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both Western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Closed Mon. 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels, 2549-5123, www.hkmms.org.hk. LAW UK FOLK MUSEUM — Law Uk, which means “Law’s House” after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. Free admission. Closed Thu. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006, www.hk.history.museum. LEI CHENG UK HAN TOMB MUSEUM — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, this is one of the city’s most
*Learn about this and other fascinating facts in
Historical Hong Kong Hikes A guide to 15 remarkable treks, detailing the rich history of the SAR’s peaks, valleys and urban neighborhoods
In all major bookstores now! Or order yours at: www.historicalhkhikes.com
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dining | The Guide
Brunch Crunch Hong Kong’s top brunch spots.
Ozone
Spasso
Oolaa
Oolaa
Kitchen at W Hotel
Spasso
Eggs Benedict with crispy bacon, oozing eggs, rich hollandaise and bouncy muffins—what’s not to love? We have to hand it to Sheung Wan neighborhood fave Oolaa for the best eggs Benny in town, not only for the resto’s perfectly gloopy egg yolks and creamy hollandaise, but also for the sheer number of Benedict varieties on the menu: ham and baby spinach; smoked salmon and baby spinach; smoked bacon and avocado; or baby spinach and mushrooms (all $110). Commence drooling.
The free-flow Perrier-Jouët bubbly Sunday brunch ($758 for adults and $324 for kids; noon-3pm) at the W Hotel’s Kitchen is the king of all hotel brunches. The bright and spacious dining room is littered with tables filled with nibbles and DIY stations for kids, but the real magic happens in the open kitchen. A world of chilled Boston lobsters, crabs, oysters and prawns; roasted pork and wagyu beef; sushi and sashimi; various kinds of cured and smoked salmon; a noodle station; hot dishes such as lobster eggs Benedict, and a huge selection of cheese and cold cuts as far as the eye can see.
Enjoy views of the Hong Kong island skyline and a lovely open space while brunching at Spasso in Tsim Sha Tsui. Start at the seafood, cold cuts and salad bar, then continue with a pasta/meat/fish main, and finish off with a large dessert platter filled with ice cream, tiramisu and fruity treats. The brunch package is offered every Sunday and costs $348-368 per adult, depending on the chosen main.
G/F, Centre Stage, Bridges St., Sheung Wan, 2803-2083.
The Flying Pan Hats off to The Flying Pan for its funky retro surrounds and 24-7 grub. We love the throwback feel of the space, and its vintage vibes complement the epic portions. The two locations, one in SoHo and another in Wan Chai, both serve a mix of brunch and lunch fare, as well as killer smoothies at relatively affordable prices—most dishes are under $100. G/F, 9 Old Bailey St., Central, 2140-6333.
6/F, W Hong Kong, 1 Austin Rd. West, Kowloon, 3717-2299.
Ozone Brunch on top of the world at Ozone, with a five-course option that costs $628 (not including drinks). You can start with eggs Benedict, move on to a sashimi platter and an asparagus soup, fill up on wagyu beef ribs, and then end with a chocolate tartlet. Go all out with all-you-can-drink Dom Perignon champagne at $1,400 per head, if you’re in the mood for celebration. Sundays noon-3pm. $2,028 for five courses and free-flow Dom. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2270.
Eggs Florentine 20 W H E R E HONG KONG I m ay 2 0 1 4
Shop G5-8 & 12-17, Empire Centre, 68 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2730-8027.
The Principal Brunch at The Principal is always a creative and colorful experience. The current six-course option comes with a platter of cold cuts and cheeses, tempura veggies, ceviche, an egg-based dish, a Korean-style suckling pig and dessert—all with the restaurant’s experimental twist. Enjoy with free-flow juices, champagne, sangria and other tipples. $740 every Sunday. 9 Star St., Wan Chai, 2563-3444.
Grassroots Pantry Going meat-free? Grassroots Pantry offers a Sunday brunch from 10am-4pm where diners can pick and choose from six different options. For instance, start with a chia seed muesli, then chomp down on some fig jam toast before filling up with a plate of sautéed mushrooms or scrambled tofu. Sundays 10am-4pm. $65-158 per dish; $42-55 for drinks. 12 Fuk Sau Lane, Sai Ying Pun, 2873-3353.
dining
Eat Your Art Out A special Art Basel menu offers “paintings” for mains. By Adele Wong
Enjoy some edible art at the Mandarin Grill + Bar, thanks to talented resident chef Uwe Opocensky, who’s prepared a multi-course feast for the eyes in celebration of Art Basel. Available from May 5-18, the Art Menu will present dishes inspired by famous paintings from around the world, including Opocensky’s version of “The Son of Man” by Rene Magritte. Diners going for the dinner sessions will also get
to “paint” their own mains, using edible sauces made of peppers, truffles, spinach and potatoes. The three-course lunch costs $788, while the five-course dinner costs $1,688. Participating diners dining on or before May 17 will get a free ticket to Art Basel (May 15-18, www.artbasel.com). 1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2522-0111.
Admiralty
Causeway Bay
Ammo — Western. $$$ Tapas and pastas can be had at this posh Asia Society eatery housed in a former British army magazine compound. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2537-9888.
Hooray — Italian. $$ Al fresco drinks and dining in a casual setting complete with a magnificent harbor view. Shop P502, 5/F, World Trade Center, 280 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2895 0885.
DAN RYAN’S — American. $$$ Dan Ryan’s prides itself on Chicago-style chow. Shop 112, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2845-4600. METROPOL — Dim sum. $ Beef balls, steamed shrimp dumplings, pork-and-shrimp dumplings, stuffed rice rolls and other Hong Kong specialties are wheeled around in traditional trolleys for an authentic dim sum experience. 4/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty, 2865-1988. NICHOLINI’S — Italian. $$$$ This restaurant gets kudos from honest-to-goodness Italians, and that’s good enough for us. 8/F, Conrad International Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2521-3838. PETRUS — French. $$$$ This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The décor is a bit ostentatious, but the opulence suits the magnificent view. 56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2820-8590.
IPPUDO — Ramen. $ Japan’s famous chain serves ramen in bowls so enormous they should be called cauldrons, with a meaty, savory broth, tender pork pieces, springy noodles and tangy spring onions topped with fungus and bean sprouts. 2/F, 8 Russell St., 2892-2387. MANGO TREE — Thai. $$-$$$ Somehow, in the middle of bustling Causeway Bay, in a high-rise chock-full of other restaurants and bars, Mango Tree manages to be an oasis of dim lighting, carefully placed flowers and good Thai food. 5/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-0828. Sorabol — Korean. $$ The smell wafting from the open barbecues in the middle of each table will get your appetite going— which is a good thing, since you’ll want to try everything. 18/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival St., 2881-6823.
Tott’s — Modern Asian/Western. $$$-$$$$ Sophisticated décor, harbor-view seats, and perfectly crafted entrees are the hallmark here. The attentive service also deserves special mention. 34/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., 2837-6786.
Central & Lan Kwai Fong AMBER — Modern French. $$$$ Modern, inventive French cuisine meets attentiongrabbing decor. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066. Brickhouse — Mexican. $$ Imagine street-side Mexican combined with hipster-chic décor and upbeat music. Phone reservations not allowed and queues form quickly at peak hours so early arrival recommended. G/F, 20A D’Aguilar St., 2810-0560. Boqueria — Spanish. $$$ Feast on tasty tapas and bomba rice paellas at this chain from New York. 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2321-8681. CAPRICE — French. $$$$ Three Michelin Stars. Splurge on haute cuisine at this French restaurant helmed by chef Fabrice Vulin. The gorgeous interior includes floor-to-ceiling windows. 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8860. m ay 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 21
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dining | The Guide CHINA Tang — Chinese. $$$$ Sir David Tang’s latest Chinese fine-dine offers top delicacies from Beijing, Sichuan and Guangdong in a luxurious setting.
The Peak THE PEAK LOOKOUT — International. $$$ Offering an alfresco terrace with a view, this restaurant features an open, bright and airy environment—more like a mountain lodge than a country club—and excellent fare. 121 Peak Rd., 2849-1000. Lung King Heen
Duddell’s
LUNG KING HEEN — Cantonese. $$$-$$$$. Three Michelin Stars. The name means “view of the dragon” and the floor-to-ceiling windows make the case. Stylish décor, flawless service and traditional as well as innovative dishes only add to the appeal. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8880.
Duddell’s — Cantonese. $$$ Serves Chinese fusion by former T’ang Court chef Siu Hin-chi. The art pieces on display are another highlight. 3-4/F, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., 2525-9191. Fatty Crab — Southeast Asian. $$$ A branch of the popular Fatty Crab Restaurant in New York. Expect a delectable mix of South-East Asian flavors. 11-13 Old Bailey St., 2521-2033. INAGIKU — Japanese. $$$ The Hong Kong branch of one of Japan’s oldest and bestknown restaurants, it lives up to the buzz: authentic, delicious and quiveringly fresh. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 2805-0600. ISOLA BAR & GRILL — Italian. $$$$ The glam factor is off the scale, with stunning harbor views and high ceilings, not to mention handmade pastas, pizzas, risottos and more. Shop 3071-75, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., 2383-8765.
Repulse Bay SPICES — Pan-Asian. $$$ Below a glassy high-rise, this restaurant is devoted to showcasing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East.” It also offers a fantastic view of the South China Sea and the sandy shores below. G/F, The Arcade, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2821. THE VERANDAH — Continental/International. $$$ Book brunch in time to get a seat at this popular spot. On other days, the a la carte menu never disappoints. Closed Mon. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2822.
SoHo Mayta
Mayta — Peruvian. $$$ Indulge in colorful and multi-textured dishes like seafood ceviche at one of LKF’s popular restos. 3/F, Grand Progress Building, 15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, 2790-0928. pierre — French. $$$$ Masterminded by threeMichelin-star chef Pierre Gagnaire, this is a bastion of fine French dining. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4001.
JASHAN — Indian. $$ Immediately impressive, with dim lighting, vermilion walls and colonial furnishings, Jashan offers an extensive menu, delicious food and hotel-level service. 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., 3105-5300. POSTO PUBBLICO — American Italian. $$$ Hip Greenwich Village types come to get their fill of such dishes as veal meatballs and sandwiches of homemade mozzarella, eggplant and lashings of balsamic vinegar. 28 Elgin St., 2577-7160.
Yardbird
Sevva
L’Atelier De Joel Robuchon
L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON — French. $$$$ The Frenchman named “Chef of the Century” by Gault Millau designs authentic dishes with exquisite finesse and precision, which are then turned out by highly trained chefs in the open kitchen. Shop 315 & 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2166-9000. LIN HEUNG Lau— Cantonese. $$ The setup has changed little in more than 50 years and it still remains a popular hangout for those craving a bit of old Hong Kong nostalgia and really, really good food. Most people come here for daytime dim sum, but dinner’s great too. 160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556.
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SEVVA — Contemporary. $$$$ The brainchild of local socialite Bonnie Gokson, this 22,000-square-foot penthouse restaurant comes with a buzzing wraparound terrace. The elegant eatery serves dishes drawn from Cantonese, Shanghainese, Indian and British culinary concepts. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., 2537-1388. YELLOW DOOR KITCHEN — Sichuan. $$ Hong Kong’s first private kitchen, this favorite has been serving up fiery Sichuan cuisine since the early 1990s. 6/F, Cheung Hing Commercial Building, 37 Cochrane St., 2858-6555. ZUMA — Japanese. $$$$ This is one goodlooking restaurant, split over two floors and linked by a sumptuous staircase. It’s the local branch of London’s famed eatery, offering a sophisticated twist on the traditional izakaya. 5-6/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3657-6388.
YARDBIRD — Yakitori. $$$ This is a no-frills yet achingly modern two-story yakitori joint in a trendy corner of the district. The skewers are mostly chicken-based, and taken from every part of the chicken’s body from the heart to the skin. Don’t forget to sample the house sake. 33-35 Bridges St., 2547-9273.
Tsim Sha Tsui
Angelini
ANGELINI — Italian. $$$-$$$$ With Italian native Marco Medaglia at the helm, Angelini serves up unpretentious food, with an emphasis on ingredients air-freighted from Italy three times a week. Also has a great harbor view. Mezzanine, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., 2733-8750.
dining
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FELIX — Fusion. $$$$ Still one of the swankiest restaurants in town, with Philippe Starck décor, modern food and famous bathrooms. It’s glam, contemporary and kid-free. 28/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, 2696-6778. FOOK LAM MOON — Cantonese. $$$$ Devotees swear this place serves the best Cantonese cuisine in the world. It’s been the place to go for southern Chinese delicacies for more than five decades. 55 Kimberley Rd., 2366-0286. HUTONG — Northern Chinese. $$$$ Dark wood furnishings and a fabulous harbor view make for a modern-day Chinese dining hall. The food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., 3428-8342. MORTON’S OF CHICAGO — Steak. $$$$ With huge slabs of prime, aged beef accompanied by what looks like the winning entries in a hard-fought vegetable show, Morton’s is one of the best steak restaurants in Hong Kong. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., 2732-2343.
Nobu
NOBU — Japanese. $$$$ Mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution, this famous restaurant deserves the hype. Sushi is a must, as is the amazing black cod. 2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323. Ruth’s Chris — Steak. $$$$ American steakhouse, with USDA Prime cuts served alongisde rich sides like spinach au gratin and tempura onion rings. Shop 108-110, 1/F, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2366-6000.
Spoon
SPOON — French. $$$$ Chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows, a fabulous harbor view and an innovative modern menu. Lobby, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323. T’ANG COURT — Cantonese. $$$$ This little gem serves some of the city’s finest Cantonese cuisine. 1/F, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., 2132-7898. m ay 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 23
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dining
Whisk — Modern European. $$$ Whisk is known for its contemporary European dishes and extensive wine list that is relatively more affordable than other fine diners. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., 2368-1111. YE SHANGHAI — Shanghainese. $$$ With upscale cuisine served in shareable portions, this is the place for Shanghainese dishes like camphor-smoked duck with pancakes. Also known for its interior full of fabulous chinoiserie. 6/F, The Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, 3 Canton Rd., 2376-3322.
Wan Chai
Bo Innovation
BO INNOVATION — Asian. $$$-$$$$ Experimental cuisine pairing local ingredients with delicacies imported from across the world. Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., 2850-8371.
Catalunya
NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT! Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418
www.outback.com.hk
Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823
Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan
Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai
Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay
Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728
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Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918
Catalunya — Spanish. $$$$ This 7,500 square feet of restaurant and bar space offers Catalan-style dishes such as roasted suckling pig and lobster rice. G/F, Guardian House, 32 Oi Kwan Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-7900. MADAM SIXTY EIGHT — European. $$$ At this posh eclectic eatery, an open kitchen faces the diners, with chefs readying exquisitely prepared dishes scurrying around. Shop 8, 1/F, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-2558. THE PAWN — British. $$$ Serving fabulous food in a faithful restoration of an 1888 landmark building, The Pawn houses a bar and a restaurant with a roof and a breezy balcony overlooking Johnston Road. The menu has modern British fare with a luxurious twist. 2/F, 62 Johnston Rd., 2866-3444. WOOLOOMOOLOO — Australian/New Zealand. $$$ This steakhouse is several places at once: a laid-back wine bar and a casual drinks terrace on the rooftop, and a fine-dining steakhouse below. 31/F-Rooftop, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960.
Taste of the city special advertising section
Spice features the
Enjoy a COMPLIMENTARY DESSERT with this ad
“Bollywood and Belly Dance Night’’,
a regular performance by two belly dancers, held every Thursday at 8:30pm .
* for dine-in and a la carte menu only We provide fine Thai, Indian and Malay cuisine with good selection of fine wines. Come experience our flavours of coriander, cumin, chili and lemongrass. Spice up your evening with friends!
Our chefs have also come up with a special menu to swing and sway to the diners’ delight of this groovy atmosphere.
www.spice-restaurant.hk 2/F, No.1 Knutsford Terrace, Tsim Sha Tsui, Tsim Sha Tsui Kowloon. Reservations: 2191 9880 / 2191 9886 Daily Opening Hours: Lunch: Mon – Sun 12nn – 3pm Dinner: Sun – Thu 6pm – 11pm Fri – Sat 6pm – 11:30pm
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Drinks | The Guide
Seeing Red With hundreds of variations, the Bloody Mary is one of the most versatile cocktails out there. Here are a few of the best in town. By Andrea Lo
Armani Privé
Armani Privé
Bars & Clubs
Armani Privé
The Globe
There are three Bloody Marys to choose from at Armani Privé. Try the black garlic and bell pepper, in which the spiced tomato juice is made using liquidized organic Italian plum tomatoes. In the Bloody Tokyo, wasabi and shiso leaf is blended with tomato juice and topped off with sake. And last but not least, the Bloody Acapulco is shaken with coriander and silver tequila. The more the Mary-er!
The owners of The Globe refuse to disclose the recipe for their Bloody Marys, which is bad luck for us—we can’t get enough of the moreish blend, which is not too salty, with a perfect spicy kick that’s enhanced by juicy chopped tomatoes. No wonder it’s often said to be the best in town. Savor it, and then order another.
2/F, Chater House, 8 Connaught Rd. Central, 3583-2828, armaniprive-hk.com.
G/F, Garley Building, 45-53 Graham St., Central, 2543-1941, www.theglobe.com.hk.
The Black Star
Dan Ryan’s Chicago Grill
Although better known for its extensive selection of gins and whiskies, Black Star also serves up a fine Bloody Mary. Served in a cooler-than-thou mason jar with a generous sprinkling of black pepper, this is one for drinkers who don’t like their Bloody Mary too thick.
The exhausted parent’s secret weapon, Dan Ryan’s Bloody Mary is generous with the alcohol content, and the cocktail is actually really good. It even comes with a shrimp!
G/F, 81 Wing Lok St., Sheung Wan, 2399-0004, www.theblackstar.hk.
Azure — Stunning view, minimalist blue décor and great cocktails. 29/F, LKF Hotel, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 3518-9330. Beijing Club — This impressive megaclub recently celebrated its sixth anniversary and is the biggest in town. Expect wet-look vinyl walls, gold-plated bathrooms and a youthful crowd. 2-3/F & 5/F, Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9983.
Angel’s Share
121BC — This import from Sydney, Australia offers biodynamic wines from Italian producers. 42-44 Peel St., Central, 2395-0200. ANGEL’S SHARE — This unique drinking loft is specifically designed for whisky lovers. Sourced from Scotland to Japan, there’s enough aged golden liquid here to suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-8388. AQUA spirit — For cocktails with a killer vista, you can do no better than this swanky high-rise venue with an eagle’s eye view of the harbor. 30/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288.
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Blckbrd — This chilled-out spot has an official “no loud music” policy, making it the perfect place for a few low-key drinks. Located on the sixth floor, the outdoor terrace is a serene place to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2545-8555. BLUE BAR — The upscale Blue Bar is a big hit with the cocktail set. Yes, the martinis are worth getting dressed up for. Lobby, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8888. Café Gray Deluxe — Beside the seductively stretched bar are cozy booths for intimate lounging, and its 49th-floor perch guarantees breathtaking harbor views. Cocktail lovers should try the Hong Kong
112 Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2845-4600, www.danryans.com/dans.
Highball. 49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. Central Wine Club — This exclusive spot on Wyndham Street was designed with oenophiles in mind. Luxe, modern Baroque surrounds keep pace with the slow jazz and contemporary tunes. 3/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2147-3448. CLUB @28 — This stylish bar has killer views, deadly cocktails and its very own outdoor oasis called The Pavilion. It’s members only, but you can join on arrival and it’s free. 28/F, Crowne Plaza Hotel, 8 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 3980-3300. DRAGON-I — Watch the bold and the beautiful work the celeb-studded room. It’s usually packed with models, especially on Wednesday nights. Podium, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 3110-1222. EXECUTIVE BAR — So quiet that the sound of a ninja’s sword slicing through silk would be cause for shushing. Well, not really, but it is quiet, Japanese and well-stocked with Scotch— the drink of the introspective man. 27/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 6710-2057.
For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at bars, restaurants and coffee shops).
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Drinks GRAPPA’S CELLAR — This bustling after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians. B/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322.
MO BAR — The bar at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental is a sleek, upscale addition to the nightlife scene. G/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0077. Ozone — Located 118 floors above the ground, this watering hole boasts a superlative title: the highest bar in Hong Kong. This nightspot is a must-see, especially due to its drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2263.
Jaa Bar
Jaa Bar — Located in a small alleyway off of Peel Street, Jaa Bar combines comfort and charm for an exclusive experience. The centerpiece of the ornate enclave is a custom-made wooden bar pieced together from classical furniture pieces. 1 Pak Tsz Lane, Central, 2815-8887.
Quinary — Grab molecular cocktails in a chilledout lounge off Hollywood Road. Be impressed by local mixologist Antonio Lai’s creative drinks list. G/F, 56-58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-3223.
The Lawn
The Lawn — This outdoor garden is a genuine urban oasis, exuding a serene, intimate vibe and illuminated entirely by a few candles. 6/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. The Parlour — The kitschy-chic bar sits betwixt the equally droll west and east dining rooms, and looks like an exotic dive in 70s London Chinatown. Hullet House, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3988-0101.
KEE CLUB — A good concierge should be able to get you into this exclusive members-only club, where you can sip a cocktail and check out the Picassos, antiques and colonial-style service. 6/F, Yeung Kee Building, 32 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9000. L’etage — With the feel of a true gentlemen’s club, this is a place for refined Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a traditionally made cocktail in one hand and a cigar in another. It’s worth coming back just to watch head bartender Katsuhisa Hirakawa hand-carve spheres of ice for whisky. 22/F, Macau Yat Yuen Centre, 525 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2522-5300. LE BOUDOIR — This Francophone hangout is all sultry drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery. The cocktails are stellar, too. B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central, 2530-3870. LILY — Get buzzed in and out of Lily’s fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. Aesthetes will be delighted that so much attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166. Lion Rock — Lion Rock is the place to unwind and relax while having one (or more) of 193 signature cocktails. Enjoy the awesome view and weekly wine and whisky tastings. 3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel, 193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Mong Kok, 2622-6167. M BAR — Set against the heights of Hong Kong’s skyline, the Mandarin Oriental’s M Bar makes for a ravishingly chic hangout. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4002. Martini BAR — This stylish hotel bar has nightly entertainment, a range of cocktails beyond just martinis and is one of the few cigar lounges in town. G/F, The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2733-2995. MCSORLEY’S ALE HOUSE — Woody, Irish and vaguely Victorian, McSorley’s is the biggest pub in SoHo. 55 Elgin St., Central, 2522-2646.
Red Bar
The Pawn
RED BAR — Located on a terrace atop IFC Mall, this funky destination bar has a breathtaking public outdoor area with harbor views. 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882.
THE PAWN — The modern British restaurant and bar, a former pawn shop, has an outdoor balcony from which to enjoy a view of Hong Kong’s 100-year-old trams. 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444.
RIEDEL ROOM — The world’s first Riedel Room offers exclusive wines to be enjoyed in Riedel crystal glassware. Lobby, JW Marriott Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2841-3836.
The Tonno — This complex features a bar, a clubbing zone, a restaurant, a live music lounge and karaoke rooms, taking “allaround entertainment” to a whole new level. Head here for an epic marathon of dancing, drinking, Elton John hits, dart games and Shanghainese buns. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.
Sake Bar Ginn — Sake sommelier Ayuchi Momose is behind this upper-floor bar. In addition to serving 100 types of sake and 30 Japanese tapas, she also imports special sakes by microbreweries. Shop 4C, 4/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2536-4355. Salon de Ning — Decadent Shanghai art deco lounge with live music Tue-Thu. UG/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6705.
Vibes
SHORE — A chill outdoor space and one of the most extensive drinks selection in town. Newly renovated. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2915-1638.
VIBES — The Mira hotel’s svelte alfresco drinks venue is home to a stunning secret garden. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5999.
Staunton’s — Considered the best “peoplewatching spot” in Hong Kong, Staunton’s has the right equation for a chill evening drink. It also has an eclectic menu. 10-12 Staunton St., Central, 2973-6611.
VOLAR — Frequented by models and wannabes, Volar can be exclusive, but you can dance the night away to top DJs. B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510.
SUGAR — Sink into one of the sofas at this swanky rooftop bar and enjoy the amazing views of the harbor. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Quarry Bay, 3968-3738.
WOOLOOMOOLOO — This steakhouse outlet boasts a gorgeous rooftop with stunning views of Victoria Harbour and the Happy Valley horse racing track. 31/F, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960. m ay 2014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 27
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ShopS+Services | The Guide
The Powder Room Freshen up your springtime outfit with the palette of the season: flowery pastels. Adding powder hues to your wardrobe is easier than you think. Just follow these steps below.
Shopping Centers APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. Millennium City 5, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 3148-1200.
Men’s jacket, $1,690, Massimo Dutti
Elements
Dress, $3,490, Episode
ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous roof garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234. HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8601.
Hysan Place
Skirt, $3,190, Pinko
Bracelets, $400 each, Sal Y Limon
HYSAN PLACE — This brand-new mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of high-quality dining options. 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222.
Men’s canvas espadrilles, $550, Toms @ Catalog
Episode 22/F, Entertainment Building, 30 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2921-2010. Massimo Dutti 50-52 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2537-8832. Sal Y Limon Kiosk, UG1/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui.
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IFC Mall
Pinko Shop 904, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2377-0077. Catalog Shop 607-608, 6/F, Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2506-3928.
IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international highend brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308. HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089.
Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.
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ShopS+Services | The Guide ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2890-6823. THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols. 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3428-8086. LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mongkok, 3514-9088, www.langhamplace.com.hk. LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-2166, www.hysan.com.hk.
Daydream Nation — A locally grown label that incorporates fashion with other art forms like theater, dance, music, film and visual arts. They offer their own collection of clothing and accessories as well as works from local artists and indie bands. Daydream Nation Circus Shop, 2/F, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2817-6313.
Wudai Shiguo — This shop in the trendy Star Street neighborhood is a collaboration between a group of local designers and stocks American vintage -style fashion and accessories. 9B1 St. Francis St., Wan Chai, 2528-3800.
Department Stores G.O.D.
G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876.
Squarestreet
Squarestreet — Seriously hipster shoes and accessories. G/F, 15 Square St., Sheung Wan, 2362-1086. Lane Crawford
One Peking — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier. 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3417-3000. Rise Commercial Building — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-4723. TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 13-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket City’super, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.
Tang Tang Tang Tang
LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with must-have designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388.
Tang tang tang tang — Sir David Tang's casual lifestyle store stocks everything from rice cookers to pyjamas. G/F, 66 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2525-2112. Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist. Shop 209, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-0238.
Shops, Boutiques and Local Designers
Walter Ma — Well-established designer offering luxury fashion. 174 Wellington St., Causeway Bay, 2838-7655.
Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men. Shop 123, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2104-7934.
Western Market — An Edwardian-styled building with restaurants and shops selling Chinese crafts and fabrics. 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 6029-2675.
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Joyce
JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 28101120; Shop 232, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944; Shop 106, Harbour City, 2-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-8128.
Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place
PRINCE’S BUILDING — Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkway to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uberfashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket. 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2500-0555.
Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant— the Fourth Floor —and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388.
Kapok — Offers meticulously selected international and local brands for menswear, womenswear, bags and accessories, as well as lifestyle products. G/F, 5, St Francis Yard Wan Chai, 2549-9254. SPY Henry Lau — Edgy and bold fashion for men and women. 1/F, 5 Cleveland St., Causeway Bay, 2317-6928.
PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8900.
Wudai Shiguo
Shanghai Tang SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The brand-new flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.
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ShopS+Services | The Guide SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.
SPAS CHUAN SPA — This stunning spa focuses on the individual needs of each client through traditional Chinese medicine and theories, including yin and yang. Its consultants are qualified in Chinese medicine, massage and naturopathy. 41/F, Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3510, www.chuanspa.com.
and an extensive range of facial and body treatments in 23 rooms and suites. Other facilities include a 50-meter outdoor pool, fitness and exercise studios, a poolside grill restaurant and a tree-lined courtyard. 11/F, Grand Hyatt, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2588-1234, www.hongkong.grand.hyatt.com.
The Swank
THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freestanding boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-0842.
Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. 1/F, Silvercord, 30 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-4061. YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 143-161 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2739-3888.
Tailors DAVID FASHIONs — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884. L & K bespoke Tailor — G/F, Mirador Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278. Nita Fashions — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim vSha Tsui. 2721-9990, www.nitafashions.com. Punjab House — 5/F, Suite C, Golden Crown Court, 66-70 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612, www.punjabhouse.com.hk. Raja Fashions — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624, www.raja-fashions.com.
Flawless
FLAWLESS — This all-in-one shop offers makeup and nail services as well as spa treatments in a spacious upper-level venue. 4/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2869-5868. IYARA DAY SPA — This Central institution offers everything from manis and pedis to facials, waxing and massage treatments. 1/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2545-8638. KIWI SPA — With light green glass, curved walls and soft light and gentle music, Kiwi offers quality foot and body massages that are affordable at the same time. iPads and headsets are available to use at your leisure while you're enjoying the treatments. 14/F, Century Square Building, 1-13 D'Aguilar St., Central, 2567-1333, www.kiwi-hk.com. MANDARIN SPA — This luxe retreat has eight private treatment rooms, including two couples’ suites, each with private steam shower and pool. Its therapies combine ancient and contemporary techniques, and specialist practitioners offer treatments that incorporate ayurvedic philosophies and traditional Chinese medicine. 24/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4888, www.mandarinoriental.com/hongkong. MEN’S SKIN CENTRE BY BELLA — This center has tailor-made treatments that focus on deep cleansing, acne treatment, and rehydration to brighten and improve your complexion. It also offers laser hair removal services. 9/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-6352, www.bellaskin.com. MIRASPA — It’s pampering for the 21st century. The Mira Spa is comfortably futuristic, with purple and pure white accents and an indoor pool decorated with twinkling lights. Facilities include a jacuzzi plus steam and sauna rooms— and nifty waterbeds in the pre-treatment room. B3/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5500, www.themirahotel.com.
REGAL fashion — G/F, Shop 15, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-6007. Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 90-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423. Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1251. 32 W H E R E HONG KONG I m ay 2 0 1 4
Plateau Spa
PLATEAU SPA — This whopping 80,000-squarefoot spa offers overnight accommodation
Sense Of Touch
SENSE OF TOUCH — This award-winning day spa boasts an extensive menu, featuring such services as a couple’s deep tissue and detoxifying massage, a rose hydrating cocoon body wrap and a “forever young” facial. The lush spa also offers a range of exclusive signature treatments, including the Elemis hot stone therapy for body and face. 1-5/F, 52 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2526-6918, www.senseoftouch.com.hk. THE PENINSULA SPA BY ESPA — This two-floor spa has sweeping harbor views. Designed by Henry Leung, the interior fuses contemporary and traditional Chinese elements. Much attention has been given to detail, including 100-percent Egyptian cotton robes and fully automated Clodagh Gemini treatment beds. 7/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2969-6682, www.hongkong.peninsula.com.
The Ritz-Carlton Spa
THE RITZ-CARLTON SPA BY ESPA — Get pampered at the highest hotel spa in the world. Located on the 116th floor, this relaxing retreat looms over the city and offers majestic views of Victoria Harbour. Spa guests can also take a dip in the hotel's sky-high infinity pool after their treatments. 116/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2040, www.ritzcarlton.com/hongkong. THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS — This urban sanctuary is everything you would expect from the Four Seasons: 22,000 square feet of sumptuousness, including Finnish saunas, an ice fountain, a crystal fountain, vitality pools and an amethyst crystal steam room. Two spa suites include a pool for two, day beds and a private bar. 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8900, www.fourseasons.com/hongkong. TEN FEET TALL — Go to Ten Feet Tall for a slightly different foot massage experience in an exotic ambience. The foot massage center features
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bright and sunny beach cabanas with pine, bamboo, natural marble and bright décor. The place’s signature treatments include genuine foot reflexology, shoulder and neck massage, pressure point massage and aromatic oil massage. 20-21/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2971-1010, www.tenfeettall.com.hk.
HAIR AIMEE AT THE SHANGRI-LA — Staffed by international stylists offering everything from bridal makeovers, haircuts, coloring and waves to manicures, pedicures and professional makeup application. 8/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-1339. AIRPLAY BLOW DRY BAR — Get your hair and makeup done all at once at Airplay, and choose from different looks like “Sea Breeze” (wavy hair) or “Mojito” (playful curls). 7/F, W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2641-9888, www.airplaybar.com. QG PRIVATE I SALON — Located in the Four Seasons, the flagship of the Private I group is suitably beautiful, with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out onto an astounding harbor view. Expect to find yourself rubbing shoulders with politicians, tycoons and the jet set. 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 2521-0070, www.privatei.com.hk.
NAILS NAIL NAIL — This is the place for innovative nails, including gel nails, airbrushing and the truly decadent one-carat diamond manicure, which is by appointment only. It also offers waxing and temporary tattoos. Shop 1091A, 1/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2366-9322, www.nailnail.com.hk. NAIL SPA — Nail services and treatments for men and women are the specialty here, including French manicures and paraffin foot therapy. Gel and acrylic nails are available along with nail painting, embossed nail art, semi-precious gemstones, crystal embossing and graduated nail painting. 1/F, 8 Pak Sha Rd., Causeway Bay, 2478-9333, www.nailspa.com.hk.
The Loft
THE LOFT — A spin-off of The Nail Library in Sheung Wan, this new Central shop right by the escalators offers men’s barbering services, facials as well as hand and foot spa treatments—and of course, manicures and pedicures. 2/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2618-8623. m ay 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 33
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Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call the Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions, plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals, as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.
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Get Moving
Octopus Cards
Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.
These are “wave-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.
Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English, but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.
The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $48, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.
Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.
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Navigate Buses
Paving the Way
Hong Kong has two major bus companies: Kowloon Motor Bus — 2745-4466, www.kmb.hk. citybus / New World First BUS — 2136-8888/2873-0818, www.nwstbus.com.hk.
Sights & Attractions AVENUE OF STARS — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes’ handprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars. There's also a statue of martial artist Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly Symphony of Lights. It's the only place where music plays over loudspeakers, although the light display can be seen around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront. BANK OF CHINA TOWER — I. M. Pei designed this 70-story building and bank headquarters to resemble stalks of bamboo. 1 Garden Rd., Central.
A Hongkonger who helps to keep the world’s favorite search engine on the cutting edge, Homing Tam is a Google Developer Expert in Maps—one of five in the world—and a Google Trusted Photographer. He tells Yannie Chan what exactly this entails. Hi Homing. What do you do, exactly, for Google? I have three major responsibilities: developing prototypes of products using the Google Maps technology, product testing, and community outreach—such as giving presentations at the World Developers’ Summit. I don’t work for Google, but you can think of me as an ambassador. How did you get noticed by Google? I have a full-time job doing digital mapping with local technology company Master Concept. But I started studying maps back in secondary school. I used to take a big piece of paper, draw a map of the city and then put toy cars on it. One of my bosses knows the Google person who coordinates the expert community, and he recommended me. HK: So what do you do as a Google Trusted Photographer? I take the business view—not the street view—of shops and businesses on Google Maps. We take 360-degree views of the inside of businesses like restaurants and hotels. If you’re making a reservation at the restaurant, you can find out which table you want and ask for that. You can check out Bentley’s store in Causeway Bay on Google Maps and browse the cars before you buy.
What’s unique about mapping Hong Kong? Hong Kong’s road network is too complicated for Google’s technology. Sometimes for a straight road, you can’t go straight ahead and have to turn. For some crossroads, you can’t U-turn. Google has no way to deal with those complexities yet.
Big Buddha
BIG BUDDHA — One of the world’s largest Buddhas, the Tian Tan Buddha took 12 years to build and sits on a lotus throne atop Lantau Island. The more than 200 steps to the top are open from 10am to 6pm daily and definitely recommended for the spectacular mountain views. Special admission tickets are available and include a vegetarian meal. Also check out the nearby Po Lin Monastery and the Wisdom Path. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and then Bus 23 to Ngong Ping. CHI LIN NUNNERY — An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It’s a 23,600-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1997. It’s centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds. Vegetarian food is available. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888. CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE — Finished in time to host the handover ceremony in July 1997, the center’s roof was designed to look like a seabird’s wings in flight. 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, 2582-8888. HONG KONG DISNEYLAND — Take a trip back to the 1900s on Main Street, catch a train to Fantasyland, float down the Rivers of Adventure, catch a show or blast through outer space in Tomorrowland. When you’re done charting your exotic surroundings take a moment to dine, shop or cavort with the various Disney characters who roam the park. It’s easy to get to via MTR, bus or car. See park.hongkongdisneyland. com for transportation details. Lantau Island, 1-830-830. m ay 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 35
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Hong Kong Dolphinwatch — Catch a glimpse of the pink dolphins, an animal so unique to these waters that it was named the official mascot of Hong Kong’s 1997 handover. Tours depart every Wed, Fri and Sun from the Kowloon Hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui at 9am, or from Tung Chung. The cruise takes up to five hours, and if no dolphins are seen, the company provides a free “go-again guarantee.” $380 for adults, $190 for children under 12, $50 for babies under 3, with proceeds going to dolphin research. Call 2984-1414 or visit www.hkdolphinwatch.com.
Sam’s The Man
HONG KONG ZOOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL GARDENS — Home to 12 endangered species, the zoo successfully breeds rare birds and orangutans. Established in 1871, the park retains all the Victorian accents from that era and is an idyllic spot in the middle of the city. Admission free. Open daily 6am-7pm. Garden Rd., Central. A staircase from Upper Albert Rd. leads to the main entrance.
(Just ask his customers)
OPEN-TOP BUS TOUR — One Big Bus day tour ticket includes 24-hour hop-on-hop-off access to the red tour (Hong Kong Island) and the blue tour (Kowloon), as well as prerecorded commentary in 10 languages and other perks. Unit KP-38, 1/F, Kowloon Star Ferry Pier, Tsim Sha Tsui, 3102-9021.
Peak Tram
PEAK TRAM AND VICTORIA PEAK — The world’s steepest funicular railway hauls passengers up Victoria Peak in approximately eight minutes. Once at the top, enjoy panoramic views of the city, or check out the restaurants, shops and various attractions at the Peak Galleria and Peak Tower. The tram runs daily 7am-midnight, tickets $28 one-way, $40 round trip. Garden Road and Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2522-0922. SIK SIK YUEN WONG TAI SIN TEMPLE — This active Buddhist temple is large and colorful with beautiful adjoining gardens. Have your fortune told by palm readers in the main arcade. Open 7am-5:30pm. A small donation is expected. Follow signs from Wong Tai Sin MTR station. 2327-8141.
Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon. Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147
Man Mo Temple
MAN MO TEMPLE — This temple was built in 1847 to honor the God of Literature, Man Cheong, and the God of War, Mo Tai. A Grade 1 historical building, it is one of biggest tourist attractions in Central. 124-126 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan.
Star Ferry
STAR FERRY — Cross Victoria Harbour between Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon Peninsula on the Star Ferry. These open-deck ferries are one of Hong Kong’s most recognizable attractions and a common, cheap—and pleasant—form of transportation. Take the MTR to Central or Tsim Sha Tsui and follow the signs.
Ngong Ping 360
NGONG PING 360 — Home to a theater, teahouse, nature center, cultural themed village and more, Ngong Ping 360 is best known for its 5.7-kilometer cable-car service that offers panoramic views of Lantau Island’s lush valleys, the South China Sea and the world-famous Tian Tan Buddha. Start from Tung Chung Station, 3666-0606. OCEAN PARK — Pay a visit to Hong Kong’s two pandas, take a cable car, then prepare for a good scream on Ocean Park's Turbo Drop thrill ride. Remember to check out the Grand Aquarium as well. Aberdeen, 3923-2323. 36 W H E R E HONG KONG I m ay 2 014
ST. JOHN’S CATHEDRAL — A beautiful cathedral built in the shape of a cross. Open daily from 7am to 6pm for quiet prayer and meditation. Take the MTR to Central Station Exit K.
Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery
TEN THOUSAND BUDDHAS MONASTERY — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800
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Buddhas stored in three temples, four pavilions and a five-story pagoda. The one that you’re likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk Yuet Kai, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin MTR, Exit B, 2691-1067, www.10kbuddhas.org. TAI O — This charming fishing village is a maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the very tip of Lantau Island. It’s a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, the picturesque Tin Hau Temple and a couple of interesting little museums. Take a ferry from Central.
Embassies & Consulates Argentina 2523-3208; Australia 2827-8881; Bangladesh 2827-4278; Belgium 2524-3111; Brazil 2525-7002; Canada 3719-4700; Chile 2827-1826; China (China Travel) 2853-3888; Colombia 2545-8547; Czech Republic 2802-2212; Egypt 2827-0668; Finland 2525-5385; France 3752-9900; Germany 2105-8788; Greece 2774-1682; India 3970-9900; Israel 2821-7500; Italy 2522-0033; Japan 2522-1184; Korea 25294141; Laos 2544-1186; Malaysia 2821-0800; Mexico 2511-3305; Netherlands 25229200; New Zealand 2525-5044; Pakistan 2827-0295; Philippines 2823-8501; Peru 2868-2622; Poland 2840-0779; Russia 2877-7188; Singapore 2527-2212; Spain 2525-3041; Sweden 2521-1212; Switzerland 3509-5000; Taiwan 2530-1187; Thailand 2521-6481; Turkey 2572-1331; United Arab Emirates 2866-1823; United Kingdom 2901-3000; USA 2523-9011; Venezuela 2730-8099; Vietnam 2591-4510.
Financial Matters Generally, business hours are weekdays 9am-5pm, with a lunch hour from 1pm2pm, and Saturdays 9am-1pm. The local currency is the Hong Kong dollar. There is no central mint; instead, notes are issued by three separate private banks and the city’s Monetary Authority. The Hong Kong dollar is pegged to the US dollar at a rate of approximately US$1 to HK$7.79. Denominations include $10, $20, $50, $100, $500 and $1,000 notes. Coins come in denominations of 10, 20 and 50 cents, and one, two, five and 10 dollars. BANKS — Major banks are open weekdays 9am-4:30pm, and Saturdays 9am12:30pm. Banks are closed Sundays and public holidays. Some services, such as foreign exchange-related transactions, are not available at banks one hour before closing. The following details are for the banks’ main offices, call for retail locations: Bank of America, 41/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 2847-5222; Citibank, Citibank Tower, 3 Garden Rd., Central, 2868-8888; HSBC, 1 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2233-3000; Standard Chartered Bank, 4 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2886-8868. m ay 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 37
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Walking Tours | The Guide Take the MTR to the Diamond Hill station. Leave the station from Exit C2 and follow the signs pointing to Nan Lian Garden.
) Nan
Lian Garden
This 35,000-square-meter Tang Dynasty-style garden features characteristic timber structures, water ponds, various oddly shaped rocks and lots of old and valuable trees. Apart from the scenic Lotus Pond and Blue Pond, there is also a restaurant called Chi Lin Vegetarian where visitors can enjoy vegetarian food provided by the Chi Lin Nunnery. Inside this lovely green oasis, visitors can also experience Chinese tea-drinking culture and etiquette at the teahouse that’s also within the garden’s grounds. Get back on the MTR and get out at the Wong Tai Sin station, exit B3. Follow the signs pointing to the Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple.
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A Walk of Good Fortune The Wong Tai Sin district gets its name from the famous Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple, the area’s most prominent landmark. It attracts thousands of worshippers on a daily basis who are seeking help for personal or business matters. Other places of interest include the Hau Wong Temple, which dates back to the Qing Dynasty, and Nan Lian Garden, built in the style of the ancient Tang Dynasty. The neighboring area of Kowloon City is where the last emperor of the Song Dynasty fled after he escaped invading Mongol forces more than 700 years ago. More recently, it housed an infamously lawless enclave, the Kowloon Walled City, which was torn down in 1994 and replaced by a park of the same name. The district is also renowned for its dining, with a group of almost 200 restaurants within a 10-block radius that cater to a wide variety of tastes.
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Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple This is one of the most popular temples in Hong Kong. According to legend, Wong Tai Sin is able to “make every wish come true upon request.” The temple is home to three different religions: Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism. The part containing Wong Tai Sin’s portrait is where worshippers pray for good fortune through offerings, and seek divine guidance through fortune telling. Shake a wooden container filled with fortune sticks and see what the future holds. Open daily, 7am–5:30pm. Take the MTR to the Lok Fu station, leave the station via Exit B and follow the directional signs pointing to the Hau Wong Temple.
Hau Wong Temple One of the legends surrounding this temple, built in 1730 under the Qing Dynasty, says it was erected to commemorate a Chinese general who helped the last Song emperor escape the forces invading Kowloon. Another legend, though, claims it was dedicated
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to a local inhabitant who had cured the last emperor of the southern Song Dynasty of a serious illness. Cross the road and walk along Tung Tau Tsuen Road to reach the North Gate of Kowloon Walled City Park.
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By a quirk of history, Kowloon Walled City remained outside British jurisdiction after Hong Kong became a colony—and subsequently became an area with an infamous reputation. Today, this Chinese-style park harmoniously combines the history and atmosphere of the former Walled City. Sites worth visiting include the Garden of the Chinese Zodiac, the Chess Garden, the Mountain View Pavilion and the Garden of Four Seasons. Open daily, 6:30am-11pm. Call 2716-9962 for more information.
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Walk through Kowloon Walled City Park and Carpenter Road Park. Cross Carpenter Road to reach Nam Kok Road, also known as the Kowloon City food district.
Kowloon City Food District An area of 10 streets bounded by Prince Edward Road West, Junction Road and Carpenter Road, the Kowloon City Food District is where you can find around 200 inexpensive and often family-run restaurants serving mostly local favorites, Southeast Asian cuisine and yummy western pastries. Afterwards, take green minibus 25M from Sa Po Road (beside the Regal Oriental Hotel) to the Kowloon Tong MTR station, and then take the MTR back to your hotel.
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30 Things we LOve about Hong Kong !5
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1 Shopping at Harbour City. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. 2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world's largest building constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888. 3 Slurping oysters for brunch at Café Deco. 1-2/F, The Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-5111. 4 Dining aboard the kitschycool Jumbo Floating Restaurant. Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen, 2553-9111. 5 Spotting endangered white dolphins with Dolphinwatch off Lantau Island. 2984-1414. 6 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 23-24 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. 7 Snaking through the high-rises on the Mid-Levels Escalator—the longest in the world. Cochrane, Shelley and Peel Streets, Central.
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8 Saying hi to Bruce Lee at the Avenue of Stars, Tsim Sha Tsui. 9 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach on Lantau Island.
!0 Taking a walk down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defence. 2569-1500. !1 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. Stanley Street, Central. !2 Getting a shave and a trim at the Mandarin Oriental’s barber. 5 Connaught Rd., Central, 2825-4088. !3 Being fitted for a tailor-made suit. Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. !4 Having our palms read at the Temple Street Night Market. Yau Ma Tei. !5 Sipping on signature cocktails while taking in the spectacular view of Hong Kong Island at Aqua Spirit. 30/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288.
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!6 Cruising Victoria Harbor on the Duk Ling, an authentic Chinese junk. 2573-5282.
@3 Buying witty chinoiserie at the new Shanghai Tang flagship mansion. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.
!7 Being entertained by performances and exhibitions at the artsy Fringe Club. 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central, 2521-7251.
@4 Taking a walk in Hong Kong Park. 19 Cotton Tree Drive, Central.
!8 Taking one of the oldest rides in Hong Kong—a tram from Sheung Wan to Causeway Bay. !9 Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei. @0 Dressing up for high tea at The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-3169. @1 Taking the Peak Tram to visit Hong Kong celebrities at Madame Tussauds. Shop P10, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-6966. @2 Doing some late-night shopping on Sai Yeung Choi Street in Mong Kok.
@5 Snacking on delicious egg tarts at Tai Cheong Bakery. 32 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2554-3475. @6 Seeing our animated favorites come to life at Hong Kong Disneyland. Lantau Island, 1830-830. @7 Stopping for tea at Fook Ming Tong Tea Shop. Shop 3316, The Gateway, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-1077. @8 Spending the afternoon at the mall. Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8900. @9 Marveling at the Symphony of Lights in Victoria Harbour. #0 Checking out the old Kowloon-Canton Railway clock tower. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.
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