WHERE Hong Kong - November 2013 by WHERE Hong Kong

Hong Kong

november 2013

the complete guide to go

速

Colorful Communities Four up-and-coming Hong Kong neighborhoods

Take a Walking Tour of Old Hong Kong Visit a Bing sut

Catch a Bruce Lee Exhibition

where Hong Kong 11.13 ®

the guide

06 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events

18 art + culture Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening

26 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town

36 Drinks Our favorite places to sip a cocktail

52 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot

54 Maps Kowloon & Hong Kong Island

Also inside 40 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers 46 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info

features

58 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences

10 Colorful Communities Spend a day in an up-and-coming neighborhood

20 Kung Fu King

on the cover Hong Kong

november 2013

All you need to know about the legendary Bruce Lee

the complete guide to go

Colorful Communities Four up-and-coming Hong Kong neighborhoods

26 Local ReTreat Dine like the locals by eating at a bing sut

Take a Walking Tour of old Hong kong VisiT a Bing suT

CaTCH a BruCe lee exHiBiTion

Locofama is one of many cool new shops to take residence in Sai Ying Pun, one of the hottest and trendiest neighborhoods in the city. Read more on p.10.

26 wheretraveler.com The website from the editors of Where Magazine. Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.

n o v e m b e r 2 013 I WHERE hong ko n g 3

where

maga z ine

On the web: www.where-hongkong.com HK Magazine Media group acMG | ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION General MANAGER & Publisher Greg Crandall ADVERTISING director Jan Cheng Advertising Executives Ivor Ngo, Maggie Chong, Winnie Cheng Advertising Coordinator Sharon Cheung Marketing MANAGER James Gannaban Marketing & Circulation Executive Charmaine Mirandilla IT SYSTEMS Manager Derek Wong

HK | EDITORIAL EDITOR-in-chief Zach Hines EDITOR Adele Wong CONTRIBUTORS Wynna Wong, Toby Hung, Leah Oh, Sean Hebert, Katie Kenny, Andrea Lo

HK | PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGER Blackie Hui ART DIRECTOR Pierre Pang Senior graphic designer Mike Hung graphic designer Iris Mak

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HONG KONG

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hot dates Hong Kong By Adele Wong and Kelly Cheuk ying ho

Nov 29-Dec 1 The Sweet, Sweet Sounds of Music Get ready for Hong Kong’s annual weekend music festival, Clockenflap. With local and international acts all sharing the stage together—including American DJ Neil Armstrong, Berlin electronic duo Modeselektor, Canadian rock duet Tegan and Sarah and Hong Kong singer Ellen Loo—you’ll be in for a treat. Noon-10pm. West Kowloon Cultural District, West Kowloon. $440-980 from ticketflap.com.

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hot dates November 1-3

November 30 Murky Murder Book a table at “Murder In Shanghai” and enjoy a dinner and a murder mystery in one setting. Chow down on some pasta and pizza at Grappa’s Cellar while witnessing a hilarious 1920s cruise ship journey from Shanghai to Hong Kong. You’re trying to solve a whodunnit along with the cast—but don’t rule yourself out as a prime suspect at the scene of the crime.

While You Were Sleeping “The Dream of the Red Chamber” tells a tale of forbidden love in ancient China. Based on one of China’s four major classical novels and choreographed by artistic director Wang Xinpeng, this ballet is both heart-wrenching and visually stunning. Bring a pack of tissues.

7:30pm. Grappa’s Cellar, Jardine House, Central. $680-880 with three-course dinner through www.chunkyonion.com or 3188-1874.

Nov 1, 7:30pm; Nov 2-3, 2:30pm, 7:30pm. Grand Theatre, Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $140-1,500 from www.urbtix.hk.

November 22-24

November 1-3

November 27

Mulan the Warrior Princess

Hungry For More

A . utumn Aria

Catch the story of Mulan, China’s ultimate female warrior, in a folklore dance version directed and choreographed by Yang Yuntao in “The Legend of Mulan.”

The American Express Hong Kong Wine & Dine Festival is a multi-day event that lets foodies enjoy fine wines and foods from all over the world at more than 280 booths set up right by the harbor. Live entertainment provided.

Enjoy performances by Cantonese opera singers all day long while learning about the rich history and cultural significance of the art form through various workshops and exhibitions at Cantonese Opera Day. Organized by the Leisure and Cultural Services Department.

Nov 22, 7:45pm; Nov 23, 3pm, 7:45pm; Nov 24, 7:45pm. Grand Theatre, Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $180-300 from www.urbtix.hk.

Nov 1-2, noon-midnight; Nov 3, noon-10:30pm. The New Central Harbourfront, Central. $30 admission at the door; tasting passes available from select vendors, see www.discoverhongkong.com for details.

1:15-5pm. Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. Free admission.

nov e m ber 2 0 13 I WHERE H ONG KONG 7

Y Y

hot dates Hong Kong Throughout November

November 3 Hats On Grab your favorite hat and head off to the Ladiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Purse Day races at the Sha Tin Racecourse. The special event will consist of a fashion show by local designers as well as beauty workshops held by cosmetics sponsor Sa Sa. Noon-6pm. Sha Tin Racecourse, Sha Tin. $10 entry fee at the door.

Shop Local Held every Sunday, you can take your pick from more than 50 stalls carrying local or organic produce and handmade crafts at this local market. Plus, live music and cooking demonstrations both entertain and educate. Every Sunday, 11am-6pm. Tong Chong Street, Quarry Bay, www.hkmarkets.org.

Through November 16

November 23-24

November 17

Bottoms Up

Take It to the Streets

Family Fun

The Marco Polo German Bierfest is widely regarded as one of the best in Hong Kong for Oktoberfest festivities. The hotel will be hosting daily outdoor parties from late October to November. German band The Notenhoblers will be on hand to perform traditional German tunes and get the audience rowdy via interactive games, while various Bavarian dishes will be sold at food stations throughout the venue. Through Nov 16; Sun-Thu 6-11pm, Fri and Sat 6-11:30pm. Viewing Platform, 6/F, Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $100-240 from www.hkticketing.com.

The streets of party-central LKF are transformed for Lan Kwai Fong Carnival 2013, a two-day affair that includes fun and games as well as lots of food and drink. Stake out your own spot on the pavement while enjoying some live music and dance performances. Drink up, eat up, then do it all over again.

Get some Christmas pre-shopping done while letting the kids roam the games and candy booths at the Stanley Family Carnival. Proceeds from the event will go to two charities: Christina Noble Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Foundation and Hong Kong Sea School. Both organizations help underprivileged children locally and abroad.

Nov 23, 1-11pm; Nov 24, 1-10pm. Streets of Lan Kwai Fong, Central.

11am-6pm. Hong Kong Sea School, 13-15 Tung Tau Wan Rd., Stanley. $100 per adult, $250 per child from hongkong@cncf.org.

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Know Thy Neighborhood Check out Hong Kong’s up-and-coming communities. By Wynna Wong, Toby Hung and Where staff Hang Hau Village

Hong Kong is a city full of change, and not a day goes by without a new restaurant or cool shop popping up. Four districts in particular have seen substantial growth and development in recent months, becoming homes to the hottest boutiques or the trendiest diners. Be sure to check out at least one of them while you’re in town, to catch a glimpse of the city’s notoriously fast-paced change.

Tseung Kwan O The predominantly residential Tseung Kwan O district on the east side of Kowloon has seen new developments such as hotels and an entertainment complex pop up in recent months, giving the area a dose of healthy consumerism. Hang Hau Village has started a buzzing independent restaurant scene, while new landmarks including the PopCorn Mall and the Hong Kong Design Institute add some quirky young blood to the area.

Grand Restaurant and Pub

EAT Lardos Opened in 2000, Lardos restaurant serves juicy marbled steaks, pastas and seafood in a no-frills environment. The signature dish is the beastly 16-ounce steak that will satisfy even the most ravenous of carnivores. The restaurant is tiny and pretty busy on most nights, so book in advance if you plan to visit. Lunch is also available. 4-B, G/F, Hang Hau Village, Tseung Kwan O, 2719-8168.

Cong Sao’s Homemade Desserts Cong Sao first opened nearly a decade ago. The owner named the dessert restaurant after his wife, a humble former kitchen lady at Radio Television Hong Kong who became known for her delectable chicken wings. Nowadays, Cong Sao serves an array of creative Hong Kong-style fruitbased desserts in large portions; it’s a favorite among locals. The place is busy all times of the day. Shop 28, G/F, Metro City Plaza Phase One, 1 Wan Hang Rd., Tseung Kwan O, 2706 9955.

Grand Restaurant 10 W H E R E HONG KONG I nov e m ber 2 013

Crowne Plaza

Just a few steps away from Lardos is Grand Restaurant and Pub, a bustling neighbourhood Thai restaurant frequented by locals and television stars from the station nearby. For a spicy, noisy dinner, signatures include the stir-fried rock crab in curry and egg and minced pork with lettuce. 25-26 Hang Hau Village, Tseung Kwan O, 2335-5099.

Cielo The appropriately named Cielo (meaning “sky” in Italian) sits on the top floor of the Crowne Plaza Hotel and offers alfresco Italian dining with stunning views across the bay. An Italian semi-buffet lunch is on offer from $168, and an array of spaghettis, cold cuts and seafoods are available for dinner. Stay for an after-meal drink as the restaurant also offers a range of unique cocktails. 47/F, Crowne Plaza Hong Kong Kowloon East, 3 Tong Tak St., Tseung Kwan O, 3983 0688.

Lardos

Kwun Tong

Popcorn Mall

As historic Kwun Tong district in Kowloon goes through governmentfunded rejuvenation, new shops and restaurants are starting to call it home. Office buildings and hotels have also chosen to make an appearance, turning the previously industrial area into a bustling commercial hub.

EAT MIC Kitchen

View from Tseung Kwan O

Fu Kee Opened just three months ago and owned by Jeff Ngan, who also runs Grand Restaurant, Fu Kee seems to be in a genre of its own. On the menu, you’ll find non-traditional Cantonese dishes with major twists, like the strawberry-marinated spare ribs with fried bread; and the Panlong Eggplant, which comes with a crispy, fried coating. The creative menu is the joint brainchild of the restaurant’s owner and head chef. 6A Hang Hau Village, Tseung Kwan O, 3482-8086.

Michelin-quality food doesn’t have to be limited to chi-chi Central. Local chef Alvin Leung, who owns the Michelin-starred restaurant Bo Innovation in Wan Chai, has expanded to Kwun Tong with MIC Kitchen, which offers a fine blend of western, Asian and molecular dishes. Run by his student Lo Ka-ki, the restaurant serves dinner and lunch dishes like laksa risotto and Iberico pork with lychee jelly, hawthorn and plum sauce. G/F, AIA Kowloon Tower, Landmark East, 100 How Ming St., Kwun Tong, 3758 2239.

Express Bar by Lassana A place to get a quick caffeine fix, Express Bar by Lassana serves quality coffee along with light meals like cakes, sandwiches and pastries. They’re also pretty well known for their cute latte art, which has graced many an Instagram account. Shop 2, 1/F, Manulife Financial Centre, 223 Wai Yip St., Kwun Tong, 2114-1003.

Express Bar by Lassana

SHOP Sealing Stone DIY Studio Local artist Kady Fung has a passion for arts and crafts, and wants to share the love via her workshop-slash-store. She specializes in seal engraving, and uses elements of ancient Chinese characters to develop patterns and graphics. Room 32, 11/F, Sing Win Industrial Building, 15-17 Sing Yip St., Kwun Tong, 3990-9589.

Kwun Tong Factory Outlets Hidden within the nooks and crannies of Hoi Yuen Road’s industrial buildings, is a collection of factory outlets for those who dare venture into the back alleys. Here, you’ll find big brands at discount rates, and over at Yuen Shing Building next door are a bunch of cosmetic shops selling brands from around Asia. The building also houses affordable fashion and other accessories, so it’s worth taking a few hours to explore. 64 Hoi Yuen Rd., Kwun Tong. GET THERE: Take the MTR to Kwun Tong Station.

SHOP Fingercroxx Fingercroxx is a local brand specializing in street style, and fits in well with new PopCorn Mall’s trendy, young image. A browse around the shop will show you colorful backpacks, oversized T-shirts, caps and B-boy style sneakers. Shop F42, 1/F, PopCorn Mall, 9 Tong Yin St., Tseung Kwan O, 2146-3478.

SAMUEL & KEVIN Born and bred in Hong Kong, the S&K look is casual, cool and polished. Prepare for colorful shirts, skinny jeans, army boots and biker jackets. S&K now boasts an impressive 610 stores around Asia and the Middle East. Their expertise is in men’s clothing, but a collection of cool, tomboyish womenswear can be found too. Shop F60, 1/F, PopCorn Mall, 9 Tong Yin St., Tseung Kwan O, 2697 7112. GET THERE: Take the MTR to Tseung Kwan O Station.

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Squarestreet

PoHo Just south of Hollywood Road in Sheung Wan, you’ll find side streets dotted with boutiques, cafes and artsy fartsy shops. The whole area is known as “PoHo”— so named for Po Hing Fong, one of the more populous streets in the enclave.

EAT Antipodean

Antipodean

Enjoy pastries and coffee at the dark wooden communal tables at Antipodean. This recently opened café in Sheung Wan serves breakfasts, light brunches and irresistible pastries like chocolate mud cake and pecan pie. As for drinks, you can either get classic coffees such as flat whites or espressos, or try the iced tea lemon lime sorbet for something refreshing on a hot summer day. 3-3A Upper Station St., Sheung Wan.

Teakha The teas at Teakha are artisanal and organic, while the products include ceramic cups, hand-made crafts and one-of-a-kind clothing, mostly with Chinese elements. Owner and manager Nana Chan says she prefers including products that have a story behind them. The tea shop itself is small and cozy, with simple and natural décor that exemplifies its philosophy. Think calm seagreens and grays, or a single branch against a painted black wall. There are smaller tables that seat one or two people, along with a large wooden communal table. Shop B. 18 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 2858-9185.

Upper Modern Bistro Upper Modern Bistro is one of the latest restaurants to take residence in PoHo. Owned by chef Philippe Orrico, who used to head St. George restaurant at boutique hotel Hullett House, the resto serves French tapas and other fusion fare. 6-14 Upper Station St., Sheung Wan, 2517-0977. 12 W H E R E HONG KONG I nov e m ber 2 013

The Nail Library

The Nail LIbrary

PAMPER

SHOP

The Nail Library

Squarestreet

The Nail Library, a newly opened nail spa in Sheung Wan, encapsulates the vibe of this popular neighborhood perfectly. The spacious New York loft-style salon blends in happily with the cool cafes, trendy galleries, quirky boutiques and historic temples all found within the distinctive old-meets-new district. Beyond nail services, the space also boasts an impressive collection of niche beauty products. Upscale nail polish collections (with brands ranging from Deborah Lippman and Ciaté to the vegan-friendly Sparitual) and hand creams from Thai brand Pañpuri are all up for grabs, as are scented candles by Sandy Bay, a London-based brand.

Squarestreet is a stylish concept store that stocks handmade leather accessories like shoes and wallets. The space started out as an office-slash-workstation for footwear designer Alexis Holm and watch designer David Ericsson, but when the duo noticed the number of people who ventured in from the streets to ask to buy the products, they decided it was time to turn the whole thing into an actual retail store. Squarestreet is predominantly a men’s brand, but the store recently started selling women’s shoes. When it comes to leather goods, the Squarestreet designers use a folding technique to minimize stitching, zippers and buttons. Fewer additions to the leather means that the products last longer.

The Nail Library, G/F, 6 Po Hing Fong, Sheung Wan, 2803-2290.

G/F, 15 Square St., Sheung Wan, 2362-1086. GET THERE: Walk along Hollywood Road in Sheung Wan, then up any of the side streets near Man Mo Temple.

Sai Ying Pun A district equally mixed with up-andcoming eateries, contemporary art galleries, and traditional seafood restaurants populated by local residents, Sai Ying Pun is currently one of the hottest neighborhoods in the city. With a newly built outdoor escalator that takes you up the slopes of Centre Street, just like the Mid-Levels escalators in Central, Sai Ying Pun might well become the next SoHo.

EAT

168 Gallery

Corner Cafe

Thai On High Recently opened and owned by chef Kea, who also operates a boat-based private kitchen in Aberdeen, Thai On High restaurant’s authentic Thai cuisine is not to be missed. The small yet carefully picked repertoire of dishes features yellow curry, a super spicy tom yum gong (seafood soup), and Pad Thai. Shop A, G/F, Kam Lun Mansion, 39-42 High St., Sai Ying Pun, 6077-5964.

La Viola La Viola is all about diversity. Though the food is European in essence (the beef carpaccio is a must), east Asian twists can be found in many dishes. For instance, there’s the Spaghettini Sicilian with Chinese sun-dried shrimp, blended with king prawns. The set lunch changes every week. Shop 9-10, G/F, Island Crest, 9 Second St., Sai Ying Pun, 2503-3325.

Locofama

SEE

As the restaurant’s punny name suggests, Locofama preaches locality and freshness, with an emphasis on serving all organic food. While the chill vibes and the organic grocery store connected to the restaurant are attractive features, the main star is the healthy and vegan-friendly menu. The Korean-style 48-hour short ribs, Oolong tea soba with wild mushrooms, and black truffle poached egg with bacon are delicious, with the homemade soy milk or fresh juices pairing excellently with the dishes. 9-13, Fuk Sau Lane, Sai Ying Pun, 2547-7668.

168 Gallery It’s creativity galore in this spacious, multipurpose art gallery. Rentable exhibition spaces, ceramics classes, an art store, and a books-and-coffee zorner are but a few of the many services and activities offered by 168 Gallery. Bring the kids along—art courses are offered to all ages. 27A Pokfulam Rd., Sai Ying Pun, 2559-9566. GET THERE: Take a westbound tram on Hong Kong island. Get off at Eastern Street, and walk up.

Corner Café A modest coffee and pastry café nearby Centre Street Market, Corner Café makes for an apt hipster hideout. Have a cookie, freshly made daily, to go with a caffeinated beverage of your choice. 56 Centre St., Sai Ying Pun, 3480 8436.

Thai On High

Locofama 14 W H E R E HONG KONG I nov e m ber 2 013

La Viola

where

the guide High On Pampering New to the city? The Ritz-Carlton Spa by ESPA—the highest in the world—is offering a tempting first-trial special that comes with a 60-minute body massage, a facial, a dip in the pool—AND a lunch with bubbles to go along. You’ll also get to take home a $250 voucher to use on your next visit. The offer is valid from now until the end of November, and costs $1,150 per person on weekdays, $1,538 on weekends. The Ritz-Carlton Spa by ESPA, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2040.

Art+culture | The Guide

Back to the Future Check out this exhibition showcasing drones in a civilian context. By Sean Hebert Hong Kong-based digital artists Kenny Wong and Marco De Mutiis won this year's Bloomberg Digital Arts Initiative for their futuristic drone-based artwork. The duo dispatched swarms of quadcopters around Hong Kong to force the people below to re-examine the surrounding space in their daily lives—and apparently, to scare them just a bit (when flying between buildings, the copters emitted eerie, amplified soundscapes from loudspeakers). The resulting uber-cool exhibition, “][ Liminal ][“, lets you see the futuristic copters in action, and will display the bird's-eye footage they accumulated on large screens. Through Nov 3. K11 Art Space, 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3110-5769.

Marco De Mutiis

You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.

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Kenny Wong

Wang Guofeng, WHO ARE THEY?WHERE ARE THEY GOING?, 2010, Edition of 5, Photograph printed on Canson paper (Etching rag) 310 gsm, 140 cm x 199 cm

8/F Club Lusitano Bldg. 16 Ice House St. Central Hong Kong | T. 852-21678896 | hongkong@desarthe.com | www.desarthe.com

Art+culture | The Guide

Kung Fu King A Bruce Lee retrospective exhibition at the Heritage Museum features everything from photos to a giant statue of the martial artist. By Sean Hebert After years of trying unsuccessfully to turn actor/martial artist/philosopher Bruce Lee’s former home in Kowloon Tong into a museum, the Hong Kong icon is finally getting the retrospective exhibition that his gargantuan legacy deserves. Organized by the Bruce Lee Foundation in conjunction with the Hong Kong government, visitors to the “Bruce Lee: Kung Fu, Art, Life” exhibition at the Heritage Museum will see countless photos, film props, handwritten notes, poetry, and a 3.5-meter statue of the man himself, which should help inspire a new generation of fans to learn to “be water.” The free exhibition officially launched on July 20—the 40th anniversary of Lee’s untimely passing at 32—and runs for five years. Through 2016. Heritage Museum, 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188.

Antiques

Altfield Gallery

ALTFIELD GALLERY — Altfield Gallery deals in Southeast Asian sculpture and decorative arts, antique maps and topographical prints relating to Asia, as well as Chinese, Tibetan and Caucasian carpets. Altfield also produces a range of reproduction furniture and accessories in the Chinoiserie style. Shipping available. Shop 248-9, 2/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-6370, www.altfield.com.hk. 20 W H E R E HONG KONG I nov e m ber 2 0 13

ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUES — The three-story shop houses large collections of Qing dynasty porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic stone and bronze sculptures and buddhas, and terracotta sculptures from China and South-Eastern Asia are found in the viewing galleries, plus there are over 200 paintings in the extensive ancestral scroll collection. G/F, 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848. CHINA ART — This leading restorer and dealer in fine Asian antique furniture and artifacts holds frequent exhibitions and has published two books, “Antiques in the Raw” and “Regional Furniture.” Go to the website to see what’s in stock. Unit 26-27, 15/F, Tower A, Southmark, 11 Yip Hing St., Aberdeen, 2542-0982, www.chinaart.com.hk.

DRAGON CULTURE — Specializes in dinosaur egg fossils, Han Dynasty terracotta, Tang sculptures and Ming porcelain figures. 231 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-8098, www.dragonculture.com.hk. JOYCE GALLERY — Specializing in ancient sculptures and archaic bronzes from across China, Joyce displays a collection of antiquities dating to the Shang dynasty, including ancient bronzes, stone carvings, gold and silver ware, jade, pottery and Buddhist works. It guarantees its descriptions of the period and history of its items and offers a full refund if the purchased item does not match the description. Shop 1, 123 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-1869, www.joycegallery.com.

Art+culture | The Guide AP Contemporary— AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2148, www.apcontemporary.com. Lam & Co Antiquities

LAM & CO ANTIQUITIES — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silver ware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offers repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services. 2/F, 151 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877, www.lamantiquities.com. OI LING ANTIQUES — Oi Ling's Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items dating as far back as the Neolithic era. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2815-9422, www.oilingantiques.com.

ART BEATUS — Established in the early 1990s, Art Beatus features mainly original paintings and art by contemporary Chinese artists. Some of its collection has a retro slant, and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoon as vehicles for expression. Has branches in Vancouver and on Queen’s Road Central. G/F, 50 Peel St., Central, 2522-1138, www.artbeatus.com. ASIA FINE ART — Dedicated to promoting young Asian artists at affordable prices, this gallery has regular exhibitions of work from China, Vietnam and Indonesia and Myanmar for sale on site and online. 14 Sik On St., Wan Chai (entrance at 99 Queen’s Rd. East), 2522-0405, www.asia-fineart.com.

10 CHANCERY LANE GALLERY — Focusing on established and emerging international artists, 10 Chancery Lane consists of three large gallery spaces. It holds exhibitions of sculptures, paintings, photographs, installations and videos, as well as performances by renowned artists. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, SoHo, 2810-0065, www.10chancerylanegallery.com. AGNèS B. LIBRAIRIE GALERIE — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnès b. has a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world. G/F, 118 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2869-5505, www.agnesb.com. ALISAN FINE ARTS — This well-established gallery has organized more than 100 exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world. Run by respected art-world figure Alice King, who has worked with the Guggenheim Museum, it also mounts exhibitions for overseas venues. Room 2305, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091, www.alisan.com.hk. ARCH ANGEL ART GALLERY — One of Hong Kong’s biggest galleries features an outstanding collection of contemporary Vietnamese oil paintings, acquired directly from the artists. The owners have carefully selected and bought each painting during frequent trips to Vietnam so, contrary to common practice, none of the works are on consignment. Be sure to check out their private stock on nearby Peel Street, featuring a fine collection of 20th-century contemporary paintings from some of Asia’s leading artists. 38 Peel St., Central, 2851-6882. 22 W H E R E HONG KONG I nov e m ber 2 0 13

De Sarthe Gallery

DE SARTHE GALLERY — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the U.S. and Europe, de Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, Club Lusitano, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896, desarthe.com. ESPACE LOUIS VUITTON — LV has been invading gallery spaces for the past half decade, stirring unrest in the hearts of hard-line art critics but appreciation in the eyes of those beholders who’re able to look past reservations about brand-name commercialism. Espace Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton Mansion, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 8100-1182.

WATTIS FINE ART — Specializes in antique maps of Asia, and historical photographs and prints of China, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia. 2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302, www.wattis.com.hk.

Galleries

CONTEMPORARY BY ANGELA LI — Perhaps best known for introducing Chinese artists Chen Jiagang and Liao Yibai to the art world, CBAL boasts a lovely space and a carefully curated exhibition program. G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3571-8200, www.cbal.com.hk.

Asia Society Hong Kong

ASIA SOCIETY HONG KONG — Asia Society Hong Kong's big, brand-spankin’-new headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences—97 percent of which are open to the public—the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. Closed Mondays. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511, www.asiasociety.org/hong-kong. BEN BROWN FINE ARTS — After 10 years at Sotheby’s and two more at a private gallery, Ben Brown and his wife sought to create a space that housed pieces reflective of their tastes—primarily on European modern and contemporary artworks. 301 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2522-9600, www.benbrownfinearts.com. THE CAT STREET GALLERY — Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the world. 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006, www.thecatstreetgallery.com. CONNOISSEUR ART GALLERY — Specializing in contemporary Chinese fine art since 1989, Connoisseur features such acclaimed artists as Paris-based Jia Juan-li, renowned Guangzhou artist Zhang Da-zhong and still life artist Liu Ying-zhao. Shop G3, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2868-5358, www.connoisseur-art.com.

GAGOSIAN GALLERY — With 12 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. Theyopened their doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an all-new exhibition by Damien Hirst—Gagosian only exhibits the crème-de-lacrème of the art world. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555, www.gagosian.com.

Galerie Du Monde

GALERIE DU MONDE — Galerie du Monde hosts exhibitions by Chinese artists including Li Shuang, Le Longyao, Yu Xiaohui, Hon Chifun and Pan Xun. Its conservation studio provides a complete restoration service for works of art on paper and canvas. Shop 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Center, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529, www.galeriedumonde.com. GROTTO FINE ART — Curated by Henry Au-yeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery represents local artists, with an interest in new and avant-garde art forms. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixedmedia and installation pieces. 2/F, 31C-D Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270, www.grottofineart.com.

Art+culture

HANART TZ GALLERY — A specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone. 401 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019, www. hanart.com. Lehmann Maupin Gallery — With the original branch in New York and with its reputation of supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery opened its doors here on March 14. Architect Rem Koolhas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Room 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central.2530-0025, hongkong@lehmanmaupin.com.

Opera Gallery

OPERA GALLERY — Opera Gallery features works by world-famous international artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Gerard Rancinan and Lita Cabellut, among others. W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-1208, www.operagallery.com. Puerta Roja — Puerta Roja was established to promote Latin American art and artists to the Hong Kong audience. Drawings, etchings, glasswork and sculptures are all featured here. Shop A, G/F, Wai Yue Building, 15-17 New St., Sheung Wan, 9729-1773. PICTURE THIS — The city’s largest affordable art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children’s rooms, and sporting prints. Suite 1308, 13/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820, www. picturethiscollection.com.

NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT! Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418

www.outback.com.hk

Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823

Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan

Plum Blossoms Gallery

PLUM BLOSSOMS GALLERY — Recognized for its exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection of museum-quality ancient textiles, Plum Blossoms is an established platform for the promotion of both ancient and modern arts. 14/F, Cheung Tak Building, 30 Heung Yip Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, www.plumblossoms.com.

Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai

Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay

Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728

Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918

nov e m ber 2 013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 23

Art+culture

Red Square Gallery — Red Square Gallery is a window into Contemporary Russian Art. Expanding into four branches, the gallery is dedicated to bringing creative and dynamic artwork to Hong Kong. Shop 2, G/F, 1A Wong Nai Chung Rd., Happy Valley. 2838-0040, www.redsquare-gallery.com. Main branch in Stanley. SHIN HWA GALLERY — Focusing on Asian contemporary art, Shin Hwa features both upcoming and established artists. It is particularly committed to innovative Chinese artists. Room 4A, Yue On Commercial Building, 385 Lockhart Rd., Wan Chai, 2803-7960, www.shinhwagallery.com.

White Cube

WHITE CUBE — One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first non-UK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials—for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. G-1/F, 50 Connaught Rd. Central, 2592-2000, www.whitecube.com. ZEE STONE GALLERY — Zee Stone, established in 1991, exhibits a wide range of contemporary artists from mainland China, using both ink and color on paper and oil on canvas. The gallery’s exhibitions reflect the rich diversity of contemporary Chinese art, including abstract landscapes, realistic portraits, paintings on rice paper by traditionally trained Chinese masters and new work by a younger generation in acrylic and mixed media. G/F, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2810-5895, www.zeestone.com.

Museums FLAGSTAFF HOUSE MUSEUM OF TEAWARE — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-inchief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Closed Tue. 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Hong Kong Park, Central, 2869-0690, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG FILM ARCHIVE — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Tuesdays. 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139. 24 W H E R E HONG KONG I nov e m ber 2 013

Art+culture

HONG KONG HERITAGE MUSEUM — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. It features permanent exhibitions on the New Territories, Cantonese opera and a Children’s Discovery Gallery. Closed Tues. 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188, www.hk.heritage.museum.

Hong Kong Maritime Museum

HONG KONG MARITIME MUSEUM — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong's growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier No. 8, 3713-2500, www.hkmaritimemuseum.org. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF ART — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0116, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF HISTORY — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. Closed Tue. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042, www. hk.history.museum.

Hong Kong Museum Of Medical Sciences

HONG KONG MUSEUM OF MEDICAL SCIENCES — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both Western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Closed Mon. 2 Caine Lane, MidLevels, 2549-5123, www.hkmms.org.hk. LAW UK FOLK MUSEUM — Law Uk, which means “Law’s House” after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. Free admission. Closed Thu. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006, www.hk.history.museum. LEI CHENG UK HAN TOMB MUSEUM — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, this is one of the city’s most fascinating monuments. Closed Thu. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863, www. hk.history.museum. nov e m ber 2 013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 25

dining | The Guide

The Next Ice Age Bing suts, or traditional greasy spoons, is making a comeback in Hong Kong. By Christopher Cheung

Bing Sut Bingo Paul Hon Man-por owns Pak Lee Café (216 Shau Kei Wan Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2560-5214), one of the few original bing suts left in the city. Literally meaning “ice chambers” in Cantonese, bing suts originated in the 60s as downmarket cafés. “In the 70s, I was ashamed to say that my family ran a bing sut,” says Hon. But these days, bing suts are back in a big way. In fact, Hon has recently opened a trendier version of the original, in Sheung Wan, called Pak Lee Cafe Since 1964 (G/F, The Pemberton, 22-26 Bonham Strand, Sheung Way, 3575-9896). The name “bing sut” is said to come from the days when few could afford home air-conditioning. Just as how cafés nowadays attract customers with free Wi-Fi, bing suts proudly advertised their newly installed cooling facilities with the words “fully air-conditioned” stuck to their doors. “People came in for some creature comforts during the dog days of summer,” Hon reminisces. “In the past, the ice was shaved manually on a wooden bench with a saw. It was hard work, even after the introduction of an ice-shaving machine, which you used by turning a handle. When I was a kid, I shaved more than 100 pounds of ice a day.”

Check These Out Want to visit an old-school bing sut, or a 21st-century rendition of one? Why not do both.

The Old

Old Pak Lee

The New Pak Lee in Sheung Wan

Bing suts may have gotten their name from their shaved ice, but over the decades that’s fallen by the wayside. “We haven’t served it for 20 years in the old bing sut, because people’s tastes have changed,” says Hon. The closing of bing suts in the past two decades seemed to be an irreversible trend that would eventually drive these Hong Kong eateries to extinction. But “things work in funny ways,” says Hon. “I have no idea why bing suts are popular again after a long period of decline.” But does it signify

Wah Lok Café Nestled among the many antique shops of Cat Street in Sheung Wan is Wah Lok Café. It has a small menu of traditional offerings. Settle down for a French toast with a hot drink ($21): afternoon tea as it was meant to be. 18 Tung St., Sheung Wan, 2543-9599.

The New

China Café With its colorful mosaic tiles, old electric fans, faded “No Spitting” sign and leisurely newspaper-reading elderly, China Café is a true relic from the 60s. It has a mezzanine floor where you can enjoy the view from above. Have a kaya (coconut jam) toast ($8)—very cheap and very tasty. 1077A Canton Rd., Mong Kok, 2392-7825. 26 W H E R E HONG KONG I nov e m ber 2 013

Capital Café This bing sut celebrates cantopop in addition to nostalgia. Classic LP covers and recent concert promotion posters line the walls. Try The Principal’s toast ($25)—it’s named after singer Alan Tam, and comes with hints of truffle. Add a classic lotus seed iced drink ($23). G/F, Kwong Sang Hong Building, 6 Heard St., Wan Chai, 2666-7766.

New Pak Lee

a resurgence that will see bing suts live on well into the future? Hon isn’t entirely optimistic. “Who knows? Bing suts may not be cool in 10 years, and the name will be discarded. I won’t be surprised. Your food doesn’t automatically become good just because you stick these two words on your restaurant.” But Hon is confident that bing suts will live on in some form or another: name or no name. “Everyone drinks milk tea, has sandwiches for breakfast and macaroni for lunch, and this hasn’t changed at all.”

The Match Box Every corner of this bing sut is full of memorabilia redolent of the 60s and 70s, from the Venetian blinds to the mirror plaques complete with fake rust. Order a hot dog ($22), which is served in a paper bag sticking out of a metal cup. G/F, Highland Mansion, 8 Cleveland St., Causeway Bay, 2868-0363.

Starbucks x G.O.D. The prettiest, kitschiest Starbucks in the known universe. This coffee shop is outfitted in complete bing sut regalia, right down to uncomfortable seating, charming floor tiles and fake green window frames. Shop M2, Baskerville House, 13 Duddell St., Central, 2523-5685.

dining | The Guide

Feeling Crabby Chinese delicacies hairy crabs—small, hirsute creatures that are full of roe—are in season until the end of the year, so be sure to try some at a local restaurant while you’re in town. By Adele Wong

Tsui Hang Village Tsui Hang Village is offering the fuzzy creatures in a variety of different dishes. The star of the show is the steamed Dutch hairy crab, imported straight from the Netherlands and served with a homemade black vinegar sauce. Then there’s steamed egg white topped with hairy crab roe; deep-fried buns with hairy crab roe; braised rice pudding with hairy crab roe…you get the picture. The crabs are $438 each, and dishes range from $188 to $288. Offer ends November 30. Tsui Hang Village

Tsui Hang Village

Various locations including 5/F, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2376-2882.

Shanghai Min Load up on hairy crab cream soup; hairy crab custard; hairy crab with noodles; hairy crab fried rice; hairy crab soup dumplings; and wok-fried hairy crab at Shanghai Min, where you can dig in for as low as $58 per person or splurge up to $298 for a dish. The crustaceans can also be enjoyed in set menus that come with a whole crab each, from $307 per head. Offer ends mid-December. Various locations including Shop 1103, 11/F, Food Forum, Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2874-8899. Shanghai Min

Admiralty

Causeway Bay

Ammo — Western. Tapas and pastas can be had at this posh Asia Society eatery housed in a former British army magazine compound. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2537-9888.$$$

Hooray — Italian. $$. Al fresco drinks and dining in a casual setting complete with a magnificent harbor view. Shop P502, 5/F, World Trade Center, 280 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2895 0885.

DAN RYAN’S — American. $$$ Dan Ryan’s prides itself on Chicago-style chow. Shop 112, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2845-4600. METROPOL — Dim sum. $ Beef balls, steamed shrimp dumplings, pork-and-shrimp dumplings, stuffed rice rolls and other Hong Kong specialties are wheeled around in traditional trolleys for an authentic dim sum experience. 3/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty, 2865-1988. NICHOLINI’S — Italian. $$$$ Hands down the best Sunday brunch around. It gets kudos from honest-to-goodness Italians, and that’s good enough for us. 8/F, Conrad International Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2521-3838. PETRUS — French. $$$$ This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The décor is a bit ostentatious, but the opulence suits the magnificent view. 56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2820-8590. 28 W H E R E HONG KONG I nov e m ber 2 013

IPPUDO — Ramen. $ Japan’s famous chain serves ramen in bowls so enormous they should be called cauldrons, with a meaty, savory broth, tender pork pieces, springy noodles and tangy spring onions topped with fungus and bean sprouts. 2/F, 8 Russell St., 2892-2387. MANGO TREE — Thai. $$-$$$ Somehow, in the middle of bustling Causeway Bay, in a high-rise chock-full of other restaurants and bars, Mango Tree manages to be an oasis of dim lighting, carefully placed flowers and good Thai food. 5/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-0828. Sorabol — Korean. $$ The smell wafting from the open barbecues in the middle of each table will get your appetite going— which is a good thing, since you’ll want to try everything. 18/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival St., 2881-6823.

Tott’s — Modern Asian/Western. $$$-$$$$ Sophisticated décor, harbor-view seats, and perfectly crafted entrees are the hallmark here. The attentive service also deserves special mention. 34/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., 2837-6786.

Central & Lan Kwai Fong AMBER — Modern French. $$$$ Modern, inventive French cuisine meets attentiongrabbing decor. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066. Brickhouse — Mexican. $$. Imagine street-side Mexican combined with hipster-chic décor and upbeat music. Phone reservations not allowed and queues form quickly at peak hours so early arrival recommended. G/F, 20A D’Aguilar St. Boqueria — Spanish. $$$ Feast on tasty tapas and bomba rice paellas at this chain from New York. 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2321-8681. CAPRICE — French. $$$$ Three Michelin Stars. Splurge on haute cuisine at this French restaurant staffed by chefs formerly of Le Cinq in Paris. The gorgeous interior includes floorto-ceiling windows. 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8860.

G111, HARBOUR CITY, CANTON ROAD WWW.MSBSCAKERY.HK

dining | The Guide The Peak THE PEAK LOOKOUT — International. $$$ Offering an alfresco terrace with a view, this restaurant features an open, bright and airy environment—more like a mountain lodge than a country club—and excellent fare. 121 Peak Rd., 2849-1000.

Lung King Heen Duddell’s

Duddell’s — Cantonese. $$$. Serves Chinese fusion by former T’ang Court Chef Siu Hin-chi. The art pieces on display are another highlight. Levels 3 & 4, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., 2525-9191. Fatty Crab — Southeast Asian. $$$. A branch of the popular Fatty Crab Restaurant in New York. Expect a delectable mix of South-East Asian flavors. 11-13 Old Bailey St., 2521-2033. INAGIKU — Japanese. $$$ The Hong Kong branch of one of Japan’s oldest and bestknown restaurants, it lives up to the buzz: authentic, delicious and quiveringly fresh. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 2805-0600. ISLAND TANG — Cantonese. $$$$ Shanghai Tang founder David Tang’s art-deco dining space is a welcome bright spot amid Central’s modern office towers, with top local cuisine to match. Shop 222, 2/F, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-8798. ISOLA BAR & GRILL — Italian. $$$$ The glam factor is off the scale, with stunning harbor views and high ceilings, not to mention handmade pastas, pizzas, risottos and more. Shop 3071-75 & 4011, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., 2383-8765.

LUNG KING HEEN — Cantonese. $$$-$$$$ Three Michelin Stars. The name means “view of the dragon” and the floor-to-ceiling windows make the case. Stylish décor, flawless service and traditional as well as innovative dishes only add to the appeal. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8880.

Repulse Bay SPICES — Pan-Asian. $$$ Below a glassy high-rise, this restaurant is devoted to showcasing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East.” It also offers a fantastic view of the South China Sea and the sandy shores below. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2821. THE VERANDAH — Continental/International. $$$ Book brunch in time to get a seat at this popular spot. On other days, the a la carte menu never disappoints. Closed Mon. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2822.

SoHo

Mayta

Mayta — Peruvian. $$$ Indulge in colorful and multi-textured dishes like seafood ceviche at one of LKF’s most popular new restos. 3/F, Grand Progress Building, 15 Lan Kwai Fong, 2790-0928.

JASHAN — Indian. $$ Immediately impressive, with dim lighting, vermilion walls and colonial furnishings, Jashan offers an extensive menu, delicious food and hotel-level service. 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., 3105-5300. POSTO PUBBLICO — American Italian. $$$ Hip Greenwich Village types come to get their fill of such dishes as veal meatballs and sandwiches of homemade mozzarella, eggplant and lashings of balsamic vinegar. 28 Elgin St., 2577-7160.

pierre — French. $$$$ Masterminded by threeMichelin-star chef Pierre Gagnaire, this is a bastion of fine French dining. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4001.

Yardbird

Sevva

L’Atelier De Joel Robuchon

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON — French. $$$$ The Frenchman named “Chef of the Century” by Gault Millau designs authentic dishes with exquisite finesse and precision, which are then turned out by highly trained chefs in the open kitchen. Shop 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 2166-9000. LIN HEUNG Lau— Cantonese. $$ The setup has changed little in more than 50 years and it still remains a popular hangout for those craving a bit of old Hong Kong nostalgia and really, really good food. Most people come here for daytime dim sum, but dinner’s great too. 160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556.

30 W H E R E HONG KONG I nov e m ber 2 013

SEVVA — Contemporary. $$$$ The brainchild of local socialite Bonnie Gokson, this 22,000-square-foot penthouse restaurant comes with a buzzing wraparound terrace. The elegant eatery serves dishes drawn from Cantonese, Shanghainese, Indian and British culinary concepts. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., 2537-1388. YELLOW DOOR KITCHEN — Sichuan. $$ Hong Kong’s first private kitchen, this favorite has been serving up fiery Sichuan cuisine since the early 1990s. 6/F, 37 Cochrane St., 2858-6555. ZUMA — Japanese. $$$$ This is one goodlooking restaurant, split over two floors and linked by a sumptuous staircase. It’s the local branch of London’s famed eatery, offering a sophisticated twist on the traditional izakaya. 5-6/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3657-6388.

YARDBIRD — Yakitori. $$$ This is a no-frills yet achingly modern two-story yakitori joint in a trendy corner of the district. The skewers are mostly chicken-based, and taken from every part of the chicken’s body from the heart to the skin. Don’t forget to sample the house sake. 33-35 Bridges St., 2547-9273.

Tsim Sha Tsui

Angelini

ANGELINI — Italian. $$$-$$$$ With Italian native Marco Medaglia at the helm, Angelini serves up unpretentious food, with an emphasis on ingredients air-freighted from Italy three times a week. Also has a great harbor view. Mezzanine, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., 2733-8750.

dining

FELIX — Fusion. $$$$ Still one of the swankiest restaurants in town, with Philippe Starck décor, modern food and famous bathrooms. It’s glam, contemporary and kid-free. 28/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, 2696-6778. FOOK LAM MOON — Cantonese. $$$$ Devotees swear this place serves the best Cantonese cuisine in the world. It’s been the place to go for southern Chinese delicacies for more than five decades. 55 Kimberley Rd., 2366-0286. HUTONG — Northern Chinese. $$$$ Dark wood furnishings and a fabulous harbor view make for a modern-day Chinese dining hall. The food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., 3428-8342. MORTON’S OF CHICAGO — Steak. $$$$ With huge slabs of prime, aged beef accompanied by what looks like the winning entries in a hard-fought vegetable show, Morton’s is one of the best steak restaurants in Hong Kong. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., 2732-2343.

Nobu

NOBU — Japanese. $$$$ Mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution, this famous restaurant deserves the hype. Sushi is a must, as is the amazing black cod. 2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323. Ruth’s Chris — Steak. $$$$ American steakhouse, with USDA Prime cuts served alongisde rich sides like spinach au gratin and tempura onion rings. Shop 108-110, 1/F, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2366-6000.

Spoon

SPOON — French. $$$$ Chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows, a fabulous harbor view and an innovative modern menu. Lobby, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2256. T’ANG COURT — Cantonese. $$$$ This little gem serves some of the city’s finest Cantonese cuisine. 1/F, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., 2132-7898.

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dining

Whisk — Modern European. $$$ Whisk is known for its contemporary European dishes and extensive wine list that is relatively more affordable than other fine diners. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., 2315-5999. YE SHANGHAI — Shanghainese. $$$ With upscale cuisine served in shareable portions, this is the place for Shanghainese dishes like camphor-smoked duck with pancakes. Also known for its interior full of fabulous chinoiserie. 6/F, The Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, 3 Canton Rd., 2376-3322.

Wan Chai

Bo Innovation

BO INNOVATION — Asian. $$$-$$$$ Experimental cuisine pairing local ingredients with delicacies imported from across the world. Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., 2850-8371.

Catalunya

Catalunya — Spanish. $$$$ This 7,500 square feet of restaurant and bar space offers Catalan-style dishes such as roasted suckling pig and lobster rice. G/F, Guardian House, Morrison Hill, 32 Oi Kwan Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-7900. MADAM SIXTY EIGHT — European. $$$ At this posh eclectic eatery, an open kitchen faces the diners, with chefs readying exquisitely prepared dishes scurrying around. 1/F, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-2558. THE PAWN — British. $$$ Serving fabulous food in a faithful restoration of an 1888 landmark building, The Pawn houses a bar and a restaurant with a roof and a breezy balcony overlooking Johnston Road. The menu has modern British fare with a luxurious twist. 62 Johnston Rd., 2866-3444. WOOLOOMOOLOO — Australian/New Zealand. $$$ This steakhouse is several places at once: a laid-back wine bar and a casual drinks terrace on the rooftop, and a fine-dining steakhouse below. 31F-Roor, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960. 32 W H E R E HONG KONG I nov e m ber 2 013

Taste of the city special advertising section

Spice features the

Enjoy a COMPLIMENTARY DESSERT with this ad

“Bollywood and Belly Dance Night’’,

a regular performance by two belly dancers, held every Thursday at 8:30pm .

* for dine-in and a la carte menu only We provide fine Thai, Indian and Malay cuisine with good selection of fine wines. Come experience our flavours of coriander, cumin, chili and lemongrass. Spice up your evening with friends!

Our chefs have also come up with a special menu to swing and sway to the diners’ delight of this groovy atmosphere.

www.spice-restaurant.hk 2/F, No.1 Knutsford Terrace, Tsim Sha Tsui, Tsim Sha Tsui Kowloon. Reservations: 2191 9880 / 2191 9886 Daily Opening Hours: Lunch: Mon – Sun 12nn – 3pm Dinner: Sun – Thu 6pm – 11pm Fri – Sat 6pm – 11:30pm

nov e m ber 2 013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 33

BARS & CLUBS

To get listed on this page, email advertising@asia-city.com.hk or call 2850-5678.

Stop a

Stop b

Bacar Bacar serves unpretentious food and wine at very competitive prices. It is popular with HK regulars who like to people-watch while standing next to the escalators with wine in hand.

G/F, 2 Shelley St., SoHo, 2521-8322

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Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;etage With the feel of a true gentlemenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s club, this is a place for Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a taditionally made cocktail.

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33-35 Staunton St., Central 2522 5300

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Iberico & Co. This space was designed by award-winning designer Kinney Chan, and offers something completely unique to SoHo customers: an airy, spacious and grand interior with an unpretentious gastro bar feel. G/F, 18 Shelley St., SoHo, 2752-8811

34 W H E R E HONG KONG I nov e m ber 2 013

Enoteca on Elgin Enoteca on Elgin opened its doors in 2005 and remains busy and buzzing almost six years on. This narrow 60-seat Mediterranean tapas and wine bar is so popular with locals and tourists that reservations are a must. G/F, 47 Elgin St., SoHo, 2525-9944

BARS & CLUBS Stop C

Stop D

Cicada Cicada is the first wine bar and restaurant in Hong Kong to dedicate itself entirely to “Asian Tapas.” Its intention is for guests to sample a wide array of dishes and flavors from all over the region in a contemporary, Asia-inspired city wine bar. G/F, 4 Shelley St., SoHo, 2521-8188

Angel’s Share

ee nR

Lyndhurst Terrace

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suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central 2805-8388

There’s enough aged golden liquid here to

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od R

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Specifically designed for whisky-lovers.

Stop E

Stop F

The Blck Brd

Le Boudoir

This Chilled- out spot has an official

This Francophone hangout is all sultry

“no loud music” policy, making it the

drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery.

perfect place for a few low-key drinks.

The cocktails are stellar too.

The outdoor terrace is a serene place

B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central 2530-3807

to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central 2545-8555

nov e m ber 2 013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 35

Drinks | The Guide Bars & Clubs

Top Tipple Andrea Lo rounds up the newest late-night enclaves to hit Hong Kong’s streets.

Angel’s Share

Tapagria One of Hong Kong actress Carina Lau’s three new concept bars and restaurants at The One, Tapagria is a Spanish-themed bar that turns into a dance lounge with DJs pumping out beats every weekend. Expect tapas, a sangria menu with 60 types of fruit and plenty of Spanish Cava. 18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2147-0111.

Eastside Tavern NYC-style food and drink take center stage at Eastside Tavern. Alongside big portions of burgers and fries, try equally big drinks like a frozen strawberry mojito or a spicy Bloody Mary. Shop G30-33 & 49-51, Empire Centre, 68 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2367-8770.

Duddell’s This gorgeous bar/restaurant/artsy exhibition space has become all the rage. Perched atop Shanghai Tang Mansion, Duddell’s comes complete with a massive garden terrace. There’s a creative menu here—think oldschool faves with a Hong Kong twist, like the Victoria Sling or the Special Administrative Sazerac House, flavored with Sichuan pepper. 3-4/F, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-9191.

Catalunya This Spanish bar and resto might be located in the quieter part of nightlife district Wan Chai, but it’s well worth a visit. It’s not only Spanish-style drinks here; some are made with Asian ingredients like ginger and sake, mixed alongside Remy Martin VSOP and Chambord black raspberry liquor. G/F, Guardian House, 32 Oi Kwan Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-7900.

121BC — This import from Sydney, Australia offers biodynamic wines from Italian producers. 42-44 Peel St., Central, 2395-0200. ANGEL’S SHARE — This unique drinking loft is specifically designed for whisky lovers. Sourced from Scotland to Japan, there’s enough aged golden liquid here to suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-8388. AQUA spirit — For cocktails with a killer vista, you can do no better than this swanky high-rise venue with an eagle’s eye view of the harbor. 29/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. Azure — Stunning view, minimalist blue décor and great cocktails. 29/F, LKF Hotel, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 3518-9330. Beijing Club — This impressive megaclub recently celebrated its fourth anniversary and is the biggest in town. Expect wet-look vinyl walls, gold-plated bathrooms and a youthful crowd. 2-3/F & 5/F, Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington St., Central, 2526-8298. Blckbrd — This chilled-out spot has an official “no loud music” policy, making it the perfect place for a few low-key drinks. Located on the sixth floor, the outdoor terrace is a serene place to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2545-8555. BLUE BAR — The upscale Blue Bar is a big hit with the cocktail set. Yes, the martinis are worth getting dressed up for. Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8830. Café Gray Deluxe — Beside the seductively stretched bar are cozy booths for intimate lounging, and its 49th-floor perch guarantees breathtaking harbor views. Cocktail lovers should try the Hong Kong Highball. 49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. Central Wine Club — This exclusive spot on Wyndham Street was designed with oenophiles in mind. Luxe, modern Baroque surrounds keep pace with the slow jazz and contemporary tunes. 3/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2147-3448. CLUB@28 — This stylish bar has killer views, deadly cocktails and its very own outdoor oasis called The Pavilion. It’s members only, but you can join on arrival and it’s free. 28/F, Crowne Plaza Hotel, 8 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 3980-3300.

For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at bars, restaurants and coffee shops).

36 W H E R E HONG KONG I nov e m ber 2 013

Tel: 2730 1251

Drinks | The Guide DRAGON BAR — The kitschy-chic bar sits betwixt the equally droll west and east dining rooms, and looks like an exotic dive in 70s London Chinatown. Hullet House, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3988-0101. DRAGON-I — Watch the bold and the beautiful work the celeb-studded room. It’s usually packed with models, especially on Wednesday nights. UG/F, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 3110-1222. EXECUTIVE BAR — So quiet that the sound of a ninja’s sword slicing through silk would be cause for shushing. Well, not really, but it is quiet, Japanese and well-stocked with Scotch— the drink of the introspective man. 27/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 2893-2080. GRAPPA’S CELLAR — This bustling after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians. B/F, Jardine House, Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322.

M BAR — Set against the heights of Hong Kong’s skyline, the Mandarin Oriental’s M Bar makes for a ravishingly chic hangout. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4002. Martini BAR — This stylish hotel bar has nightly entertainment, a range of cocktails beyond just martinis and is one of the few cigar lounges in town. The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2733-2995.

MO BAR — The bar at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental is a sleek, upscale addition to the nightlife scene. The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0077. Ozone — Located 118 floors above the ground, this watering hole boasts a superlative title: the highest bar in Hong Kong. This nightspot is a must-see, especially due to its drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2270.

Jaa Bar

Jaa Bar — Located in a small alleyway off of Peel Street, Jaa Bar combines comfort and charm for an exclusive experience. The centerpiece of the ornate enclave is a custom-made wooden bar pieced together from classical furniture pieces. 1 Pak Tsz Lane, Central, 2815-8887.

L’etage — With the feel of a true gentlemen’s club, this is a place for refined Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a traditionally made cocktail in one hand and a cigar in another. It’s worth coming back just to watch head bartender Katsuhisa Hirakawa hand-carve spheres of ice for whisky. 22/F, 525 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2522-5300. LE BOUDOIR — This Francophone hangout is all sultry drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery. The cocktails are stellar, too. B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central, 2530-3870. LILY — Get buzzed in and out of Lily’s fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. Aesthetes will be delighted that so much attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166. Lion Rock — Lion Rock is the place to unwind and relax while having one (or more) of 193 signature cocktails. Enjoy the awesome view and weekly wine and whisky tastings. 3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel,193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Mong Kok, 2622-6167. 38 W H E R E HONG KONG I nov e m ber 2 013

SUGAR — Sink into one of the sofas at this swanky rooftop bar and enjoy the amazing views of the harbor. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Tai Koo, 3968-3738.

MCSORLEY’S ALE HOUSE — Woody, Irish and vaguely Victorian, McSorley’s is the biggest pub in SoHo. 55 Elgin St., Central, 2522-2646.

Quinary — Grab molecular cocktails in a chilledout lounge off Hollywood Road. Be impressed by local mixologist Antonio Lai’s creative drinks list. G/F, 56-58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-3223.

KEE CLUB — A good concierge should be able to get you into this exclusive members-only club, where you can sip a cocktail and check out the Picassos, antiques and colonial-style service. 6/F, 32 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9000.

Staunton’s — Popularly considered the best “people-watching spot” in Hong Kong, Staunton’s has the right equation for a chill evening drink. It also has an eclectic menu. 10-12 Staunton St., Central, 2973-6611.

The Lawn

The Lawn — This outdoor garden is a genuine urban oasis, exuding a serene, intimate vibe and illuminated entirely by a few candles. 6/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. THE PAWN — The modern British restaurant and bar, a former pawn shop, has an outdoor balcony from which to enjoy a view of Hong Kong’s 100-year-old trams. 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444. The Tonno — This complex features a bar, a clubbing zone, a restaurant, a live music lounge and karaoke rooms, taking “allaround entertainment” to a whole new level. Head here for an epic marathon of dancing, drinking, Elton John hits, dart games and Shanghainese buns. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.

Red Bar

RED BAR — Located on a terrace atop IFC Mall, this funky destination bar has a breathtaking public outdoor area with harbor views. 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882. RIEDEL ROOM — The world’s first Riedel Room offers exclusive wines to be enjoyed in Riedel crystal glassware. JW Marriott Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2841-3836. Sake Bar Ginn — Sake sommelier Ayuchi Momose is behind this upper-floor bar. In addition to serving 100 types of sake and 30 Japanese tapas, she also imports special sakes by microbreweries. Shop 4C, 4/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2536-4355. Salon de Ning — Decadent Shanghai art deco lounge with live music Tue-Thu. B/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6705. SHORE — A chill outdoor space and one of the most extensive drinks selection in town. Newly renovated. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2915-1638.

Vibes

VIBES — The Mira hotel’s svelte alfresco drinks venue is home to a stunning secret garden. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5999. VOLAR — Frequented by models and wannabes, Volar can be exclusive, but you can dance the night away to top DJs. B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510. WOOLOOMOOLOO — This steakhouse outlet boasts a gorgeous rooftop with stunning views of Victoria Harbour and the Happy Valley horse racing track. 31/F, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960.

ShopS+Services | The Guide

Project Runway Meet local designers and fashionistas at a fashion pop-up this month. By Adele Wong Photo credit: Akif Hakan Carmen Chan

Besides big brands and luxury labels, Hong Kong is also home to a host of creative, independent designers. This month, many of these designers are coming together to celebrate the local fashion scene with a series of parties and pop-up events. This ambitious, months-long “I Live Fashion” project is organized by local jewelry maker Carmen Chan, whose trinkets can be found at her eponymous online shop as well as retailers around the city (Edit on Hollywood Road and Daydream Nation in Wan Chai being a few). “I want to inspire and enlighten people to design their own [fashions],” says Chan. She’s becoming a loud voice in the emerging fashion scene, championing other up-and-coming designers and seeking out collaborations with fashion bloggers across town. On November 22, Chan’s organized a public party at new fashion boutique Roo, gathering together local fashion bigshots like bloggers Cindy Ko (Cindiddy.com) and Grace Chan (lushgazine.com). Local brands like Glush (www.glush.co) and Void (voidwatches.com) will be stocking and selling their products there, as will quirky international brands like Irregular Choice. Want to procure something slightly different from the usual high-end brands? Keen to get some style advice from Hong Kong’s top fashionistas? Here’s your chance. #ILiveFashion Style Jam Party Nov 22. 1/F, 16 Elgin St., Central. Check out www.carmenchanjewelry.com for more details.

Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.

40 W H E R E HONG KONG I nov e m ber 2 013

ShopS+Services | The Guide

Next Stop Wanderland Grab a vintage travel poster while you’re on the road. By Katie Kenny

Bringing back a little souvenir from your travels is great—but picking up an image from a time gone by is so much classier. Vintage destination posters never go out of style, and local book and prints shop Picture This is just the place where you’ll find these age-old gems. $1,800 each. Picture This, Shop 212, 2/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2525-2803, www.picturethiscollection.com.

Shopping Centers APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. Millennium City 5, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 3148-1200. ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous roof garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234.

42 W H E R E HONG KONG I nov e m ber 2 013

HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8601. HYSAN PLACE — This brand-new mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of high-quality dining options. 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222.

IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international high-end brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308. HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089.

Hong Kong

apr il 2013

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Raise a Glass The best new bars in

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ShopS+Services | The Guide ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2890-6823. THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols. 115 Queen’s Rd. Central, 29212199. LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mongkok, 3520-2800, www.langhamplace.com.hk. LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 18 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-2166, www.leegardens.com.hk.

Shops, Boutiques and Local Designers Amours Antiques — Antique jewelry and vintage clothes. 45 Staunton St., Central, 2803-7877. Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men. Shop 123, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, www.blancdechine.com. Daydream Nation — A locally grown label that incorporates fashion with other art forms like theater, dance, music, film and visual arts. They offer their own collection of clothing and accessories as well as works from local artists and indie bands. Daydream Nation Circus Shop, 2/F, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2817-6313. Another store at K11 in Tsim Sha Tsui.

Walter Ma — Well-established designer offering luxury fashion. 16 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 2838-7655. Western Market — An Edwardian-styled building with restaurants and shops selling Chinese crafts and fabrics. 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 6029-2675.

Department Stores Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant— called Fourth Floor—and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388, www.harveynichols.com.

Joyce boutique

G.O.D.

Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place

PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8988. PRINCE’S BUILDING — Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkway to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uber-fashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket. 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2500-0555.

G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876, www.god.com.hk. Kapok — Offers meticulously selected international and local brands for menswear, womenswear, bags and accessories, as well as lifestyle products. G/F, 5, St Francis Yard Wan Chai, 2549-9254. SPY Henry Lau — Edgy and bold fashion for men and women. 1/F, 5 Cleveland St., Causeway Bay, 2317-6928, www.spyhenrylau.com.

Lane Crawford

LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with must-have designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388.

One Peking ROAD — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier. 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. Rise Shopping Arcade — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2363-0301. TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 16-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket City’super, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.

44 W H E R E HONG KONG I nov e m ber 2 013

JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2810-1120; Shop 232, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944; Shop 106, Harbour City, 2-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-8128.

Squarestreet — Seriously hipster shoes and accessories. G/F, 15 Square St., Sheung Wan, 2362-1086.

SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The brand-new flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.

Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist. Shop 209, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-0238.

SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.

Squarestreet

ShopS+Services

The Swank Y

THE SWANK CM — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, MY The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freeCY standing boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, CMY 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 K Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-0842.

Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. 1/F, Star House, 3 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-4061. YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 143-161 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2739-3888.

Tailors DAVID FASHION — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884. LA ELITE FASHION — G/F, 1 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-0040. L & K Custom Tailor — G/F, Mirador Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278. Nita Fashion — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. 2721-9990, www.nitafashions.com. Punjab House — 5/F, Suite C, Golden Crown Court, 66-70 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612, www.punjabhouse.com.hk. Raja Fashion — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624, www.rajafashions.com. REGAL fashion — LG/F, Shop 8 & 9, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-6007. Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 23679423. Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1287.

nov e m ber 2013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 45

Navigate | The Guide

Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call their Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.

Get Moving

Octopus Cards

Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.

These are “wave-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.

Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.

The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $48, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.

Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.

46 W H E R E HONG KONG I nov e m ber 2 0 13

Navigate | The Guide Buses

Walk the Walk

Hong Kong has two major bus companies:

Tired of visiting popular tourist spots? Discover urban myths and untold stories of Hong Kong through a walking tour. By Leah Oh

citybus / New World First BUS — www.nwstbus.com.hk, 2136-8888/ 2873-0818.

Haider Kikabhoy’s natural storytelling skills and his passion for 19th century Hong Kong history led him to start a new social enterprise called “Walk in Hong Kong” that specializes in wellresearched and thoughtfully designed walking tours. His love of storytelling comes from his family—his parents have always been in the habit of passing on old tales of Hong Kong. Through “Walk in Hong Kong,” Kikabhoy and his tour guides want to promote Hong Kong as a multidimensional travel playground—and one of steep heritage. Kikabhoy wants to turn the traditions and customs of Hongkongers into tourism points, so that travelers can learn and appreciate locals' history and culture. Walk in Hong Kong provides two types of tours: area tours that focus on different places and districts, and themed tours that focus on topics like urban myths, cemeteries, letterpress printing, old shops and more. In November, Walk in Hong Kong plans to visit a historical cemetery in Happy Valley, close to shopper-

Kowloon Motor Bus — www.kmb.hk, 2745-4466.

Sights & Attractions AVENUE OF STARS — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes’ handprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars, along with a statue of martial artist Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly Symphony of Lights. Music plays over loudspeakers here and nowhere else, although the light display can be seen from around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront.

Tai O

central Causeway Bay and also home to one of the city’s two racetracks. There will also be a Tai O tour for tourists to get a glimpse of Hong Kong’s last fishing village. At the end of November, Walk in Hong Kong will arrange a history-themed tour, taking participants to the spot where the British planted the Union Jack in 1841. This tour will reveal what it was like for Chinese immigrants to live in early colonial-era Hong Kong. Walk in Hong Kong tours operate Saturdays and Sundays, starting at 2 pm. For booking details and information, visit www.walkin.hk or call 5511-4839.

BANK OF CHINA TOWER — I. M. Pei designed this 70-story building and bank headquarters to resemble stalks of bamboo. 1 Garden Rd., Central.

Big Buddha

BIG BUDDHA — One of the world’s largest Buddhas, the Tian Tan Buddha took 12 years to build and sits on a lotus throne atop Lantau Island. The more than 200 steps to the top are open from 10am to 5:30pm daily and definitely recommended for the spectacular mountain views. Special admission tickets are available and include a vegetarian meal. Also check out the nearby Po Lin Monastery. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and then Bus 23 to Ngong Ping. CHI LIN NUNNERY—An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It’s a 23,600-squaremeter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1997. It’s centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds. Vegetarian food is available. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888.

Yau Ma Tei

Happy Valley Cemetery

48 W H E R E HONG KONG I nov e m ber 2 0 13

CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE — Finished in time to host the handover ceremony in July 1997, the center’s roof was designed to look like a seabird’s wings in flight. 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, 2582-8888. HONG KONG DISNEYLAND — Take a trip back to the 1900s on Main Street, catch a train to Fantasyland, float down the Rivers of Adventure, catch a show or blast through outer space in Tomorrowland. When you’re done charting your exotic surroundings take a moment to dine, shop or cavort with the various Disney characters who roam the park. It’s easy to get to via MTR, bus or car. See the website for transportation details. Lantau Island, 1-830-830, park. hongkongdisneyland.com.

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Navigate | The Guide

Hong Kong Dolphinwatch — Catch a glimpse of the pink dolphins, an animal so unique to these waters that it was named the official mascot of Hong Kong’s 1997 handover. Tours depart every Wed, Fri and Sun from the Kowloon Hotel in Tsim Tsa Tsui at 9am. The cruise takes up to five hours, and if no dolphins are seen, the company provides a free “go-again guarantee.” $380 for adults, $190 for children under 12 years, with proceeds going to dolphin research. Call 2984-1414 or visit www.hkdolphinwatch.com. HONG KONG ZOOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL GARDENS — Home to 12 endangered species, the zoo successfully breeds rare birds and orangutans. Established in 1871, the park retains all the Victorian accents from that era and is an idyllic spot in the middle of the city. Admission free. Open daily 6am-7pm. Garden Rd., Central. A staircase from Upper Albert Rd. leads to the main entrance.

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Peak Tram

PEAK TRAM AND VICTORIA PEAK — The world’s steepest funicular railway hauls passengers up Victoria Peak in approximately eight minutes. Once at the top, enjoy panoramic views of the city, or check out the restaurants, shops and various attractions at the Peak Galleria and Peak Tower. The tram runs daily 7am-midnight, tickets $28 one-way, $40 round trip. Bus No. 15C runs between Peak Tram lower terminus and Central, near the Star Ferry. It costs $4.20 for a single journey. Garden Road and Cotton Tree Drive, 2522-0922. SIK SIK YUEN WONG TAI SIN TEMPLE — This active Buddhist temple is large and colorful with beautiful adjoining gardens. Have your fortune told by palm readers in the main arcade. Open 7am-5:30pm. A small donation is expected. Follow signs from Wong Tai Sin MTR stop. 2327-8141.

Man Mo Temple

MAN MO TEMPLE — This temple was built in 1847 to honor the God of Literature, Man Cheong, and the God of War, Mo Tai. A grade-1 historical building, it is one of biggest tourist attractions in Central. 124-126 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan.

Star Ferry

STAR FERRY — Cross Victoria Harbour between Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon Peninsula on the Star Ferry. These open-deck ferries are one of Hong Kong’s most recognizable attractions and a common, cheap—and pleasant—form of transportation. Take the MTR to Central or Tsim Sha Tsui and follow the signs. ST. JOHN’S CATHEDRAL — A beautiful cathedral built in the shape of a cross. Open daily from 7am to 6pm for quiet prayer and meditation. Take the MTR to Central.

Ngong Ping 360

NGONG PING 360 — Home to a theater, teahouse, nature center, cultural themed village and more, Ngong Ping 360 is best known for its 5.7-kilometer cable-car service that offers panoramic views of Lantau Island’s lush valleys, the South China Sea and the world-famous Tian Tan Buddha. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and walk five minutes to the cable-car terminal. OPEN-TOP BUS TOUR — One Big Bus day tour ticket includes 24 hour hop-on-hopoff access to the red tour (Hong Kong Island) and the blue tour (Kowloon), as well as prerecorded commentary in 10 languages and other perks. Unit KP-38, 1/F, Kowloon Star Ferry Pier, Tsim Sha Tsui, 3102-9021. 50 W H E R E HONG KONG I nov e m ber 2 0 13

Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery

TEN THOUSAND BUDDHAS MONASTERY — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800 Buddhas stored in three temples, four pavilions and a five-story pagoda. The one that you’re likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk Yuet Kai, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin MTR, Exit B, 2691-1067, www.10kbuddhas.org.

Navigate

TAI O — This charming fishing village is a maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the very tip of Lantau Island. It’s a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, the picturesque Tin Hau Temple and a couple of interesting little museums. Take a ferry from Central.

Embassies & Consulates Argentina 2523-3208; Australia 2827-8881; Bangladesh 2827-4278; Belgium 2524-3111; Brazil 2525-7002; Canada 3719-4700; Chile 2827-1826; China (China Travel) 2853-3888; Columbia 2545-8547; Czech Republic 2802-2212; Egypt 2827-0668; Finland 2525-5385; France 3752-9900; Germany 2105-8788; Greece 2774-1682; India 3970-9900; Israel 2821-7500; Italy 2522-0033; Japan 2522-1184; Korea 25294141; Laos 2544-1186; Malaysia 2821-0800; Mexico 2511-3305; Netherlands 25229200; New Zealand 2525-5044; Pakistan 2827-0295; Philippines 2823-8501; Peru 2868-2622; Poland 2840-0779; Russia 2877-7188; Singapore 2527-2212; Spain 2525-3041; Sweden 2521-1212; Switzerland 3509-5000; Taiwan 2530-1187; Thailand 2521-6481; Turkey 2572-1331; United Arab Emirates 2866-1823; United Kingdom 2901-3000; USA 2523-9011; Venezuela 2730-8099; Vietnam 2591-4510.

Financial Matters Generally, business hours are weekdays 9am5pm, with a lunch hour from 1pm-2pm, and Saturdays 9am-1pm. The local currency is the Hong Kong dollar. There is no central mint; instead, notes are issued by three separate private banks and the city’s Monetary Authority. The Hong Kong dollar is pegged to the US dollar at a rate of approximately US$1 to HK$7.79. Denominations include $10, $20, $50, $100, $500 and $1,000 notes. Coins come in denominations of 10, 20 and 50 cents, and one, two, five and 10 dollars. BANKS — Major banks are open weekdays 9am-4:30pm, and Saturdays 9am-12:30pm. Banks are closed Sundays and public holidays. Some services, such as foreign exchange-related transactions, are not available at banks one hour before closing. The following details are for the banks’ main offices, call for retail locations: Bank of America, 41/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 28475222; Citibank, Citibank Tower, 3 Garden Rd., Central, 2868-8888; HSBC, 1 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2233-3000; Standard Chartered Bank, 4 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2886-8868. p.s. Hi, mom!

What happened at the Pinewood Battery? *

*Learn about this and other fascinating facts in

Historical Hong Kong Hikes A guide to 15 remarkable treks, detailing the rich history of the SAR’s peaks, valleys and urban neighborhoods books

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nov e m ber 2 0 13 I WHERE H ONG KONG 51

Walking Tours | The Guide

A Stroll Through Time Walking through Sheung Wan and Central, discover two areas where the hustle and bustle of a modern city mingle with colorful, age-old traditions.

Start at the Sheung Wan MTR station. Take exit B, turn right and walk about three minutes.

Western Market An Edwardian-style building built in 1906, this grand building is now a historical monument full of themed shops, tailors and restaurants. Walk along Morrison Street and turn right into Wing Lok Street.

Walk back to Des Voeux Road West, turn right into Bonham Strand West and continue until you can turn right into Possession Street. Walk uphill along the sloping street and turn left into Hollywood Road. Turn left at Lok Ku Road, then right onto Upper Lascar Row.

Hollywood Road This thoroughfare is famous for its many curios and antiques shops.

Wing Lok Street

Walk along Des Voeux Road West and turn left onto Ko Shing Street.

Ko Shing Street This is the wholesale center of Hong Kong’s thriving herbal medicine trade.

52 W H E R E HONG KONG I nov e m ber 2 0 13

Continue walking east along Hollywood Road to the Central Mid-Levels Escalator. Take the escalator up to Staunton Street and the SoHo area.

Central Mid-Levels Escalator SoHo

At the end of Wing Lok Street, turn left onto Des Voeux Road West.

Discover the surprising varieties of exotic dried seafood available on this street.

One of the first traditional-style temples in Hong Kong, this homage to the gods of war and literature was built during the colonial era. Open daily from 8am to 6pm.

At 800 meters long, this is the world’s longest covered outdoor escalator.

This street is lined with specialty shops selling ginseng and bird’s nest.

Des Voeux Road West

Man Mo Temple

Upper Lascar Row

Upper Lascar Row Also known as Cat Street, this alley is a shopper’s paradise lined with traditional street stalls. Walk back uphill to Hollywood Road, turn left and walk until you reach the Man Mo Temple.

You’ll find great food, coffee shops and funky bars in this lively dining district as well as boutiques and markets. Take the steps beside the escalator down to Hollywood Road, turn right and walk to the former Central Police Station Compound, former Central Magistracy and Victoria Prison Compound (not open to the public).

Former Central Police Station Compound This gray building with a Doric-style façade and columns was built in 1864.

Former Central Police Station Compound

Former Central Magistracy The structure has a majestic appearance, with imposing pillars and other features typical of Greek Revival style.

Victoria Prison Compound Built in 1841, Victoria Prison is believed to be the first western building constructed of durable material in Hong Kong. Walk east along Hollywood Road as it turns into Wyndham Street, and follow the signs to Lan Kwai Fong.

Lan Kwai Fong A buzzing center of clubs, bars and restaurants. A must for night owls and people-watchers. Walk up Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Aguilar Street, cross Wyndham Street and turn left onto Lower Albert Road. Follow the signs to Duddell Street.

Duddell Street Steps & Gas Lamps The lamps at the head and foot of the steps, built between 1875 and 1889, are the only four gas lamps remaining in Hong Kong.

For more Hong Kong walks visit www.discoverhongkong. com or call the HKTB hotline on 2508-1234.

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加里Ln 交 ross e mdber 2 013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 57 Cnov R d oo 跑馬地運動 W

30 Things we LOve about Hong Kong 6

1 Trying tai chi for free at

9 Shaking fortune-telling bamboo sticks at the Wong Tai Sin Temple.

the Sculpture Court in front of the Hong Kong Museum of Art from 8am to 9am every Monday, !0 Saying hi to Bruce Lee at the Wednesday, Thursday and Friday. Avenue of Stars, Tsim Sha Tsui. 2 Dressing up for high tea at !1 Shopping for antique kitsch The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, on Cat Street (Upper Lascar Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-3169. Row), Sheung Wan. 3 Watching the sunset !2 Eating with the locals at from tranquil Pui O Beach, a dai pai dong food stall. Lantau Island. Gough St., Central. 4 Having our palms read at !3 Hiking along the beautiful the Temple Street night market, Sai Kung Peninsula. Yau Ma Tei. !4 Listening to a Chinese tea 5 Spotting endangered white expert talking about the dolphins with Dolphinwatch varieties of tea, its proper off Lantau Island, 2984-1414. preparation and tea-drinking etiquette. Free talk at Lock Cha 6 Seeing all your animated Tea Shop from 4pm to 5pm favorites come to life at Hong Kong Disneyland, Lantau Island, every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Call 2801-7177. 1830-830. 7 Dining aboard the kitschycool Jumbo Kingdom floating restaurant. Shum Wan Pier Drive, Aberdeen, 2553-9111.

!5 Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei.

8 Cruising Victoria Harbor on the Duk Ling, an authentic Chinese fishing junk, 2573-5282.

!6 Getting a shave at the Mandarin Barber, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2522-0111.

58 W H E R E HONG KONG I nov e m ber 2 013

!7 Riding the cable car 5.7 kilometers over Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Ngong Ping cultural-themed village and the Big Buddha. !8 Snaking through the highrises on the Mid-Levels Escalator—the longest in the world. Cochrane, Shelley, and Peel Streets, Central. !9 Meeting Pui Pui, our famous crocodile, at the eco-friendly Hong Kong Wetland Park. Tin Shui Wai, New Territories, 2708-8885. @0 Taking the Peak Tram to visit Hong Kong celebrities at Madame Tussauds. Shop P10, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., 2849-6966. @1 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 16-24 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. @2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building to be constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill.

@3 Taking the oldest ride in Hong Kong—a tram from Western to Causeway Bay. @4 Enjoying free kung fu demonstrations and cultural performances at Kowloon Park every Sunday from 2:30pm to 4:30pm. Weather permitting. @5 Slurping oysters for brunch at Café Deco. 1-2/F, The Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-5111. @6 Taking a walk down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defence, 2569-1500. @7 Drinking at panoramic bar Aqua Spirit. 30/F, One Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. @8 Checking out the KowloonCanton Railway clock tower. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. @9 Snacking on egg tarts at Tai Cheong Bakery. 32 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2554-3475. #0 Bird-watching at the Mai Po Marshes, Mai Po, 2526-4473.

Arch Angel Authenticated museum quality Asian antiquities. 53/55 Hollywood Road • Central • Hong Kong • Tel: (852) 2851 6848 • Fax: (852) 2851 6778 • Open Daily: 9:30-6:30 Email: antiques@ArchAngelAntiques.com.hk