WHERE Hong Kong - November 2014

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the complete guide to go

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Hong Kong

Top Tables Hong Kong’s 25 Best New Restaurants

Rock out at music festival Clockenflap Check out trendy Wong Chuk Hang Explore the temples in Shau Kei Wan

where Hong Kong 11.2014 ®

the guide

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06 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events

16 art + culture Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening

20 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town

26 Drinks Our favorite places to sip a cocktail

38 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot

40 Map Central, Hong Kong Island

Also inside 28 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers

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features 10 Top Tables Hong Kong’s best new restaurants

06 Clock ‘n’ Roll Rock out at annual music festival Clockenflap

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32 Not Just Black and White

32 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info 42 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences

on the cover no v e m b e r 2014

the complete guide to go

®

Hong Kong

Top Tables Hong Kong’s 25 Best New Restaurants

Colorized photos of Old Hong Kong Rock out at music festival clockenflap check out tRendy Wong chuk hang exploRe the

There’s never a dull moment in Hong Kong’s dining scene.

Turn to p.10 to discover the best new restaurants in the city—including Mott 32, pictured.

temples in shau kei Wan

wheretraveler.com The website from the editors of Where Magazine.

Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.

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Painted Pottery Fat Lady Figure Tang Dynasty

early pottery ceramics sculptures authenticated museum and collector quality

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hot dates Hong Kong

By Evelyn Lok

November 28-29 Power Run Glow sticks at the ready—the dazzling, neon-lit AIA Electric Run will be racing through Hong Kong in November. This walk-slash-runslash-dance export from the US and Europe will transform the New Central Harbourfront into a 5-kilometer series of “electric zones” featuring lights and EDM tunes. With fancy dress mandatory, glowing lights obligatory, and zone names like "Rainbow Road" and "Electro Rainforest," it's more of a festival than a race.

Did we mention glow sticks?

Nov 28-29, 5pm. The New Central Harbourfront, Central, www.electricrun.hk. $500-700 from www.electricrun.hk.

November 28 -30 Clock 'n' Roll Clockenflap, the city’s biggest and most anticipated music festival, returns this November. The lineup? Look for LA comedy rockers Tenacious D, UK indie chart-toppers The Vaccines, Scots electro group Chvrches and latin hip-hop group Ozomatli. The rest of the acts will be announced in due course. Tickets are on sale now, so act quickly.

Visit the website for the full lineup. West Kowloon Cultural District, West Kowloon, www.clockenflap.com, $440-1,080 from www. ticketflap.com.

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hot dates Nov 25-30

November 2

Eat Long and Prosper

Preposterous Puppets Ready for another round of foul-mouthed puppets?

Following a highly successful Cantonese run last year, the original English musical from Broadway finally comes to Hong Kong. If you haven't yet heard of the gloriousness that is "Avenue Q," it's a cheeky, F-bomb-laden musical adventure—definitely not for kids, despite being played by a fuzzy motley crew à la Sesame Street.

8pm. Lyric Theatre, Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd., Wan Chai, 2584-8500. $395-795 from www.hkticketing.com.

Through November 9

The Southside Market Long Lunch is a five-hour-long meal offered by the Butcher’s Club Deli at their spacious rooftop terrace in Aberdeen. Aside from dryaged beef burgers, roast lamb, mussels and fries offered throughout the day, there’ll also be live bands and kid-friendly games. A ticket buys you unlimited trips to the cooked food stalls. Start training your tummy; you’ll need the stomach space!

Noon-5pm. The Butcher’s Club Deli at Editus Rooftop. 16-17/F, Shui Ki Industrial Building, 18 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen. $250-550 from www.ticketflap.com.

Through November 16

Through November 15

Seeing with New Eyes Shereen El Feki

Page Turner

Out of Bounds

The Hong Kong International Literary Festival kicks off as some of the world's most acclaimed authors and journalists descend for a big week of exciting events. Veteran war correspondent Kate Adie will make a special appearance, Pulitzer Prize-winner Junot Diaz is launching a series of short stories and there's even a cocktail evening with three influential women authors: Leta Hong Fincher, Shereen El Feki, and Ira Trivedi, who'll be discussing love, sex and marriage in modern times.

Catch the People's Fringe Festival, billed as an "alternative arts experience" that will feature music, dance, theater, stand-up comedy, exhibitions and tons more. Watch “Shakespeare in the Port,” an evening of Shakespeare and other plays inspired by the bard, among other events that showcase the best of local and regional talent. Through to November, the events will be all over town, from parks and churches to the village of Ping Che in the New Territories. Visit their website for the full lineup.

Oct 31-Nov 9. Various events.

Tickets from www.eventbee.com.

Oct 18-Nov 15. www.pplsfringe.com.

This year marks the seventh edition of the biennial New Vision Arts Festival, which brings a slew of overseas and local talent together for an action-packed four weeks, with performances spanning dance, theater, music, and visual art exhibitions. On the theater side, don’t miss “Ravens, We Shall Load Bullets” in which a group of Japanese senior citizens portrays a group of armed rebels. Renowned Taiwanese choreographer Lin Hwai-min’s newest production, “Rice,” is also worth your time as is a new production of Henrik Ibsen’s “Hedda Gabler” by British director Adrian Nobel. To see what other local theater groups are up to, or to check out the various extension activities and workshops, visit the website.

Through Nov 16. Various Locations. www.newvisionfestival.gov.hk. $120-480 from www.urbtix.hk. n o v e m b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 7

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hot dates Hong Kong

By Evelyn Lok

November 15-16

Nov 19-22

Nov 28-30

Sweet Rides

Field of Dreams

The Cat is Back

The Classic Car and Vintage Festival is the first of its kind in Hong Kong. Shiny old retro marques are brought to the New Central Harbourfront with an accompanying carnival of all things vintage: dotted with F&B stalls, kids' activities, clothing and handicrafts.

Shakespeare's Globe theater comes back to the Hong Kong stage with the classic comedy: "A Midsummer Night's Dream."

They'll be staging the production in full Renaissance garb and set design—just like the bard dreamed up, 400-odd years ago.

There will only be six shows, so get your tickets before they're all snatched up.

Not many other children's authors have inspired kids' imaginations quite like Dr. Seuss has. Now it's all been set to music in "Seussical"—the musical extravaganza co-conceived by Tony Award-winning writers Lynn Ahrens and Stephen Flaherty, and Monty Python's Eric Idle. It combines stories and characters from "Green Eggs and Ham," "The Cat in the Hat" and more.

11am-10pm. New Central Harbourfront. www.hkclassiccar.com. $280-3,000 from classiccar.ticketflap.com.

Various times. Lyric Theatre, Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd., Wan Chai, 2584-8500. $395-795 from www.hkticketing.com.

Various times. Lyric Theatre, Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd., Wan Chai, 2584-8500. $295-595 from www.hkticketing.com.

November 26 Onwards

November 22-23

Through November 30

Art Attack

Smells Like Free Spirits

Worldly Eats

The HK Art Gallery Association brings together hundreds of the city’s top-notch art institutions and galleries. HK Art Gallery Week will cover a range of free activities such as extended opening nights, curator and artist talks, studio visits, tours, and fun events that will explore Hong Kong’s artsiest neighborhoods.

The West Kowloon Cultural District Authority brings us the last Freespace Fest before part of the West Kowloon Harbourfront closes for further development. This homegrown arts festival brings together a wide selection of interactive art productions from physical theater to street performances and music events. It’s a thoroughly eco-friendly event with food stalls, a farmer’s market, and plenty of family-friendly entertainment!

October’s Wine and Dine Festival continues on into Wine and Dine month in November, with a host of street carnival delights. Stanley Plaza’s World of Food and Music 2014 is one such mainstay, providing party games, performances and, of course, delicious bites at the seaside hotspot across four weekends.

Nov 26-Dec 5. Various locations, www.hk-aga.org.

Nov 22, 1-11pm; Nov 23, 1-10pm. West Kowloon Harbourfront, West Kowloon. $50-150 from www.hkticketing.com.

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Nov 9, 16, 23, 30. Stanley Plaza Stanley Plaza, 23 Carmel Rd., Stanley, 2813-4623.

W W W. S E V V A . H K

Top

Tables Hong Kong’s best new restaurants.

By Where Staff In honor of one of the most exciting and vibrant dining destinations in the world, we have picked out Hong Kong’s top 25 new restaurants for you to try while in town. Here they are, in alphabetical order. Dig in!

Bibo

Beef & Liberty Burger joint Beef & Liberty—originally from Shanghai—is doing something right, and that’s the burgers. Try the bacon cheeseburger, which is stuffed with bacon, bacon jam, and cheddar—it’s juicy but not greasy, and tender, sandwiched in a high, soft, crispy bun. The cookie skillet dessert is also to cry for!

2/F, 23 Wing Fung St., Wan Chai, 2811-3009.

AberdeenStreet StreetSocial Social Aberdeen

Aberdeen Street Social Britisch chef Jason Atherton and entrepreneur Yenn Wong have collaborated for the third time to launch Aberdeen Street Social, bringing their take on modern British cuisine to the hipsters of Hong Kong. The two-story venue is separated into three sections: a restaurant, cocktail bar and café, and each area has its own unique décor and atmosphere. If you can’t commit to a full-on meal, stop by for a cocktail or enjoy a piece of cake in the outdoor café.

G/F, JPC Building, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2866-0300.

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BÊP Vietnamese Kitchen

Bread Street Kitchen

BÊP—a comfortable, no-fuss SoHo restaurant from the team behind popular Vietnamese restaurant Nha Trang—offers up an open kitchen, good service and excellent food in two locations in Central.

Get your fix of everything from roasted suckling pig to soft shell crab rolls to chicken skewers.

Bread Street Kitchen is a collaboration between chef Gordon Ramsay and local restaurant group Dining Concepts. The establishment takes its cue from the all-day space of the same name near St. Paul’s Cathedral in London, serving breakfast as well as pretty much everything else (including Josper grill dishes).

LG/F, 9-11 Staunton St., Central, 2522-7533.

Another branch on Wellington Street.

M/F, Hotel LKF, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2230-1800.

Bibo

Butchers Club Burgers

Between the colorful chaos of authentic contemporary art, personable service and opulent menu, Bibo is a strong contender for one of Hong Kong’s best new tables. Every dish is exquisite and made from quintessential fine-dining ingredients like caviar, foie gras and truffles.

If you’re craving red meat, head straight to The Butchers Club Burgers, which makes its patties with its own dry-aged Black Angus beef. The patties will be minced to order in front of you. Bring an appetite, ‘cause these bad boys are stacked high with cheddar, glazed bacon, tomatoes, pickles and an onion spread. Remember to check out their secret menu online.

163 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2956-3188.

Shop 10, G/F, Rialto Building, 2 Landale St., Wan Chai, 2528-2083.

Ciak

Carbone

Comfort

Ciak

Ho Lee Fook

Ho Lee Fook

Carbone

Ciak

Ho Lee Fook

A New York-style Italian restaurant with mid-20th century vibes, Carbone has long been serving indulgent dishes in New York City. The Hong Kong extension is helmed by chef Mario Carbone’s cousin Louie Carbone, and brings historic New York flavors to the city’s ever-diversifying dining scene. Diners can expect classic New York-Italian dishes, such as baked clams, linguini vongole and veal parmesan.

Chef Umberto Bombana of threeMichelin-starred 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana is now behind a more casual Italian concept that serves fresh pastas, pizzas and tasty meat dishes in a spacious market-like environment.

Cheeky Ho Lee Fook is one of the latest in a string of trendy Chinese establishments taking over Hong Kong Island. This one is run by Sydney-sider Jowett Yu, who’s responsible for the popular Mr. Wong and Ms. G’s restaurants back in his home city.

Expect fusion-y items on the menu, such as the Yunnan-style steak tartare, fried Brussels sprouts, clams in a pork and fennel broth, and raw scallops.

3/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2522-8869.

9/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2593-2593.

B/F, 1-5 Elgin St., Central, 2810-0860.

Catch On Catchick

Comfort

A ground-floor neighborhood restaurant with an alfresco vibe and romantic white furnishings, Catch On Catchick is one of the latest F&B ventures in trendy Kennedy Town.

The menu is relatively simple, with shared starters, salads, mains and sides taking equal space. There’s a strong emphasis on seafood, although you’re able to order a steak or roast lamb rump if you really wanted to.

Chef Harlan Goldstein’s casual venture in the heart of party-central Lan Kwai Fong serves comfort foods from all over the world. Dig into steamed pork belly buns (also known as bao) and beef brisket curries, or roast chicken and English sausages.

G/F, 93 Catchick St., Kennedy Town, 2855-1289.

5/F, Grand Progress Building, 15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2521-8638.

Jamie’s Italian After years of negotiations, Jamie’s Italian has finally opened its doors to excited foodies in town. Located in Causeway Bay, the restaurant pays tribute to Hong Kong’s unique heritage with artwork by Barnaby Purdy, Jamie Oliver’s longtime business partner. Guests get to enjoy a menu of seasonal Italian dishes and classics with a twist.

2/F, Soundwill Plaza II—Midtown, 1 Tang Lung St., Causeway Bay, 3958-2222. n o v e m b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 11

Locofama Stop by Locofama in Sai Ying Pun and sample some of their fresh organic bites.

Designed by chef and nutritionist Justin Chan, Locofama serves up affordable, clean and super fresh meals. Try their scrumptious oolong tea soba noodles, or their truffle-topped eggs. Also browse Locofama’s grocery store for a range of healthy and organic goodies for the home.

G/F, 9-13 Fuk Sau Lane, Sai Ying Pun, 2547-7668.

La Vache

Little Bao

Eat steak frites, and steak frites only, at the loud and busy La Vache, where a set price of $258 gives you a healthy portion of rib-eye slivers with unlimited fries on the side. A walnut salad is part of the deal, and desserts cost extra.

This hipster joint serves some finger-linkin’ bao, or steamed buns, stuffed with meat of all sorts. The pork belly bao is a standout, and the chicken bao with Sichuan mayo is another must-try. Even the desserts come squashed between two buns!

48 Peel St., Central, 2880-0248.

G/F, 66 Staunton St., Central, 2194-0202.

Mama San Aussie chef Will Meyrick’s popular and uber-trendy Mama San comes from Bali to Central. Not as roomy and high-ceilinged as the mothership, Mama San HK still remains faithful to the original décor, complete with MS Bali’s signature wall mural. Southeast Asian dishes with a contemporary touch are the name of the game here.

1/F, 46 Wyndham St., Central, 2881-8901.

Mott 32 Mott 32 is restaurant group Maximal Concepts’ first foray into Chinese cuisine, and like its other restaurants, it’s dark, dramatic and exclusive. There are two popular signature dishes at Mott 32: the Peking duck, and the Iberico pork char siu.

B/F, Standard Chartered, 4-4A Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2885-8688.

Mott 32

Nur At the helm of Nur is chef Nurdin Topham, whose illustrious resume includes a stint on the Noma houseboat in Copenhagen, aka the Nordic Food Lab. Chef Nurdin focuses on a very particular type of fine dining here, sourcing as many local ingredients as possible from Hong Kong’s very own farms, and creating delightful dishes that, among other feats, really highlight the versatility of plant-based produce.

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Nur

3/F, Lyndhurst Tower, 1 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2850-6828.

Paradise Dynasty Singaporean chain Paradise Dynasty is a spacious and popular xiaolongbao restaurant whose claim to fame is its multi-colored, multi-flavored dumplings.

Expect to queue, although hopefully not for too long, as there are plenty of seats inside. The foie gras, truffle and crab roe dumplings are our favorites.

6/F, Lee Theatre, 99 Percival St., Causeway Bay, 2177-0903.

Restaurant Akrame Restaurant Akrame on Ship Street is headed by chef Akrame Benallal, of the ravereviewed, two-Michelin-starred Akrame in Paris. The décor here is rather austere: minimalist black and white are the main motifs. Restaurant Akrame offers a gentle glimpse into a new generation of chefs who continue to pay tribute to classical French techniques, but are at the same time actively carving out their own paths.

G/F, 9 Ship St., Wan Chai, 2528-5068.

Seasons by Olivier Elzer Chef Olivier Elzer, formerly of L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, now has his own brand in a sprawling space at Lee Gardens Two. It’s part of a new breed of restaurants trying to tone down the uppity factor of finedining with a laissez-faire, casual approach.

3/F, Lee Gardens Two, 2-38 Yun Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2505-6228.

Restaurant Akrame

Serge et le Phoque

Town

Serge et le Phoque might’ve opened without much fanfare in a local corner of Wan Chai last summer, but the restaurant is backed by hotshot restaurateurs and chefs from Paris’s top establishments (Le Chateaubriand and La Bigarrade, to be precise). Enjoy delectable modern French dishes in casual surroundings.

Chef Bryan Nagao is jazzing up Causeway Bay’s fine-dining scene with Town, a modern French outfit with Japanese influences. Enjoy a red prawn carpaccio paired with yuzu, or black ink udon instead of black ink pasta.

10/F, The Cubus,1 Hoi Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2568-8708.

Shop B2, G/F, The Zenith Tower 1, 3 Wan Chai Rd., Wan Chai, 5465-2000.

Vasco

Zen Too

Taking up a corner of the beautifully revitalized PMQ building, Vasco offers Basque Country fine-dining in fancy surrounds. Be sure to eat light prior to trying their tasting menu, which starts with bread and multicolored butter, and progresses to seafood and pigeon and irrisistable desserts.

Zen Too is from the Zen Chinese Cuisine Restaurant Group, which originated in London and now operates branches in Mexico City as well as China. Zen Too is a flashy, spacious resto with very reasonably priced dishes. The menu reads like a novel, with dim sum, small plates and larger portions for sharing.

You can get everything from har gau to fried rice to nose-to-tail Chinese stews to an awesomely aromatic truffle fried rice.

7/F, Block B, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2156-0888.

8/F, Soundwill Plaza II–Midtown, 1 Tang Lung St., Causeway Bay, 2845-4555.

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HONG KONG Shop G&H, Ground Floor, Burlington House, 90-94C Nathan Road, T.S.T., KLN., HK (Tsim Sha Tsui Station Exit B1) 九龍尖沙咀 彌敦道90-94C號 華敦大廈地下Ｇ&H舖 （尖沙咀港鐵站 B1 出口） Tel: (852) 2366 5635 / 2366 6612 / 2368 8625 BUSINESS HOURS 09:00AM – 09:00PM (MON-SAT) 10:00AM – 07:00PM (SUN)

www.punjabhouse.com.hk

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LONDON 13-13A Pall Mall, London SW1Y 5LU Tel: +44 020 7925 2238 www.apsleytailors.com

where

the guide Head South Looking for a cool new place to stay while you're in town? Check out Ovolo Southside in Wong Chuk Hang, on—you guessed it—the trendy south side of Hong Kong island. The rooms in this boutique hotel have a converted warehouse vibe, and perks include a free minibar.

A restaurant and rooftop bar complete the package.

64 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2165-1000, ovolohotels.com.

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Art+culture | The Guide

On Top of the World Two art exhibitions featuring our natural and social surroundings. By Evelyn Lok

MAP Office

Howie Tsui

Zhu Yiyong

Antiques Arch Angel Antiques — The three-story shop houses large collections of Qing dynasty porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic stone and bronze sculptures and buddhas, and terracotta sculptures from China and SouthEastern Asia are found in the viewing galleries, plus there are over 200 paintings in the extensive ancestral scroll collection. 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848.

Lam & Co Antiques — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silver ware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offer repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services. 2/F, 151 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877.

Oi Ling Antiques — Oi Ling's Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items dating as far back

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Island Fever

Cloud Control

In recent years, we saw different nations in East Asia fighting to claim several small, uninhabited and overlooked islands. Art spaces Spring Workshop and Para Site have invited a group of international artists in a joint exhibition called “Islands Off the Shores of Asia”—including Hong Kongers MAP Office, Pak Sheung Chuen, and Howie Tsui—to come together and think: what if it’s more than just about exerting power, what if there’s something more mystical about them? Using sci-fi and fiction, the artists each interpret these islands in their own way, exploring nationalism in the region, and why islands have given cause for so much insecurity.

Zhu Yiyong's latest show at Galerie du Monde, “I Don’t Believe in Clouds,” celebrates 20 years of collaboration with the gallery. Zhu is known for his iconic series "Memories of China," a monochrome collection of oil portraits featuring girls playing cat's cradle with red string. This new series, "The Realm of the Heart," comments on environmental issues in China. Zhu paints scenes from smoggy Chongqing and Beijing in black-and-white, with a pure white cloud hanging above as a symbol of hope for a generation that's never lived without a polluted sky.

Through Dec 7. Spring Workshop, 3/F, Remex Centre, 42 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 2110-4370.

as the Neolithic era. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2964-0554.

art galleries 10 Chancery Lane Gallery — Established in 2001, this gallery focuses on established and emerging artists from around the world.

Consisting of three large gallery spaces, it not only holds exhibitions of paintings, photographs, installations and videos, but also performances by renowned artists. Featured Hong Kong artists include anothermountainman, Frog King, and MAP Office. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, Central, 2810-0065.

1A Space — Founded in 1998, 1a Space is one of the city’s leading contemporary visual art organizations. An independent, nonprofit venture established by local artists, it encourages interaction between the art community and the public through exhibitions, seminars, festivals and cultural exchange programs. It features works by rising and veteran local and international artists and runs an artist-in-residence program. Always worth

Through Nov 18. Galerie du Monde, Room 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Centre, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529.

visiting, it’s located in a former cattle shed. Unit 14, Cattle Depot Artist Village, 63 Ma Tau Kok Rd., To Kwa Wan, 2529-0087.

AP Contemporary — AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2118.

Above Second — Opened since 2010 in Hong Kong, Above Second adds a slice of urban attitude to the city's vibrant art scene by showing work straight from the streets. With a non-stop lineup of international artists in residencies, you'll see everything from graffiti to graphic design, pop culture to street art here.

9 First St., Sai Ying Pun, 3483-7950.

Agnes b. Librairie Galerie — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnes b. has a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world.

G/F, 118 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2869-5505.

You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.

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Art+culture Alisan Fine Arts — This well-established gallery has organized hundreds of exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world. It also mounts exhibitions for overseas venues. Room 2305, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091.

Art Beatus Gallery — Established in the early 1990s, Art Beatus features mainly original paintings and art by contemporary Chinese artists. Most of its collection has a retro slant, and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoon as vehicles for expression. Has a branch in Vancouver. G/F, 129-133 Wellington St., Central, 2526-0818.

Asia Fine Art — Dedicated to promoting young Asian artists at affordable prices, this gallery has regular exhibitions of work from China, Vietnam and Indonesia and Myanmar for sale on site and online. G/F, 14 Sik On St., Wan Chai, 2522-0405.

Espace Louis Vuitton — LV has been invading gallery spaces for the past half decade, stirring unrest in the hearts of hard-line art critics but appreciation in the eyes of those beholders who’re able to look past reservations about brand-name commercialism. Louis Vuitton Mansion, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 8100-1182.

supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery opened its doors here on March 14. Architect Rem Koolhas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Unit 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2530-0025.

Gagosian Gallery — With 14 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. They opened their doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an all-new exhibition by Damien Hirst-Gagosian only exhibits the creme-de-la-creme of the art world. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555.

Galerie Koo — Founded in 2012, Galerie Koo focuses on contemporary art that's all about beauty and colors, and represents established and rising star artists from across Europe and Asia. 7/F, Vogue Building, 67 Wyndham St., Central, 2525-0331.

Asia Society Gallery

Asia Society Gallery — Asia Society Hong Kong's big, brand-spankin’-new headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences-97 percent of which are open to the public—the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511.

Ben Brown Fine Arts — After 10 years at Sotheby’s and two more at a private gallery, Ben Brown and his wife sought to create a space that housed pieces reflective of their tastes-primarily on European modern and contemporary artworks. Room 301, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2522-9600.

Blindspot Gallery — Blindspot Gallery relocated from it's original Central location to this larger industrial warehouse in Aberdeen, on the south side of Hong Kong Island. It's the setting for large scale exhibitions, private viewings and special events. 15/F, Po Chai Industrial Building, 28 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen , 2517-6238.

Contemporary by Angela Li — Perhaps best known for introducing Chinese artists Chen Jiagang and Liao Yibai to the art world, CBAL boasts a lovely space and carefully curated exhibitions G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 3571-8200.

De Sarthe Gallery — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the U.S. and Europe, de Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, Club Lusitano Building, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896.

Galerie du Monde

Galerie du Monde — Specializing in modern and contemporary Chinese art, and a champion of up-and-coming talents, Galerie du Monde is known for innovative exhibits that cross mediums: from sculpture to photography, paper media to canvas. Room 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Centre, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529.

Grotto Fine Art — Curated by Henry Au-yeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery exclusively represents local Chinese artists, with a particular interest in the new and avant-garde art forms. You&39;ll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixedmedia and conceptual installation pieces.

31C-D, 2/F, Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270.

Hanart TZ Gallery — A specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by internationally recognized mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone.

Room 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019.

Lehmann Maupin

Lehmann Maupin — With the original branch in New York and with its reputation of

Lumenvisum — Established in 2007, the nonprofit arts organization Lumenvisum has been dedicated to promoting photographic arts in Hong Kong. They host regular themed exhibitions, lectures, photography classes and social events at their gallery space at the JCCAC Arts Village. L2-10, 30 Pak Tin St., Shek Kip Mei, 3177-9159.

Mur Nomade — Founded in 2012 by curator Amandine Hervey, Mur Nomade is a curatorial office and gallery based in Aberdeen. They hold regular exhibitions mainly showing work from local contemporary artists, as well as many site-specific shows all across Hong Kong.

1606, 16/F, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen.

New Gallery on Old Bailey — Established in 1999, the gallery aims to promote contemporary Chinese fine art. It exhibits the work of wellestablished artists in a variety of styles-namely realism, surrealism, still-lifes, portraiture and modern abstraction. The gallery has an exhibition program and also gives advice to corporate clients about art commissioning and acquisition. 4/F, Kai Tak, 35 Tai Yau St., San Po Kong, 2234-9889.

Puerta Roja — Puerta Roja was established to promote Latin American art and artists to the Hong Kong audience. Drawings, etchings, glasswork and sculptures are all featured here.

Shop A, G/F, Wai Yue Building, 15-17 New St., Sheung Wan, 2803-0332.

Red Square Gallery — Red Square Gallery is a window into Contemporary Russian Art. Expanding into four branches, the gallery is dedicated to bringing creative and dynamic artwork to Hong Kong. Shop 2, G/F, Stanley Plaza, 1A Wong Nai Chung Rd., Happy Valley, 2838-0040.

Sin Sin Fine Art — The gallery represents and promotes mainland and Southeast Asian artists and photographers, with a focus on Chinese, Indonesian and Thai works of art. G/F, 53-54 Sai St., Sheung Wan, 2858-5072.

The Popsy Room — Jennifer Chung, the founder of this unique art space, firmly believes that art should be experienced through all our senses. Hence all exhibitions, featuring local and international artists, cater to vision, sound, smell, and particularly taste: coinciding with their exhibitions every two months is an art-food pairing menu, which patrons can book for a private dining experience. G/F, 30 Upper Lascar Row, Sheung Wan, 2234-6711.

Wattis Fine Art — Specializes in antique maps of Asia, and historical photographs and prints of China, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia. 2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302.

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Art+culture | The Guide White Cube — One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first non-UK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials-for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. 50 Connaught Rd. Central, Central, 2592-2000.

Zee Stone Gallery — Zee Stone, established in 1991, exhibits a wide range of contemporary artists from mainland China, using both ink and color on paper and oil on canvas. The gallery’s exhibitions reflect the rich diversity of contemporary Chinese art, including abstract landscapes, realistic portraits, paintings on rice paper by traditionally trained Chinese masters and new work by a younger generation in acrylic and mixed media. G/F, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2810-5895.

museums Flagstaff House Museum of Teaware — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-in-chief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Hong Kong Park, 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2869-0690.

Hong Kong 3D Museum — Whip out those selfie sticks and get your cameras ready: a visit to the HK3D museum is all about playing with its numerous trick of the eye effect exhibits, where you can explore Hong Kong&39;s culture. Here you can jump into a panda enclosure or cling precariously onto the Bank of China tower, among many other fun props and poses. 1/F, Hilton Tower, 96 Granville Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-9720.

Hong Kong Film Archive

Hong Kong Film Archive — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema.

Closed Thursdays 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139.

Hong Kong Heritage Museum — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. Permanent exhibitions on the New Territories and Cantonese opera, plus a Children’s Discovery Gallery of natural and cultural history, including toy-making. Closed Tuesdays and public holidays 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188.

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Law Uk Folk Museum — Law Uk, which means ‘Law’s House’ after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. Free admission. Closed Thursdays. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006.

Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, the Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum is one of the city’s most fascinating monuments.

Closed Thursdays. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863.

Hong Kong Maritime Museum

Hong Kong Maritime Museum — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong&39;s growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier No. 8, Man Kwong St., Central, 3713-2500.

Hong Kong Museum of Art — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042.

Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence — Don’t let the name put you off, this is a great little museum. Set in a 19th-century British fort with spectacular views of the Lei Yue Mun channel, it features the original restored batteries and camouflaged cannons under a new tented canopy. The museum also houses artifacts and costumes from Hong Kong’s military past. A gentle trail leads to the sea, giving a sense of how the British patrolled for pirates and other enemies of the colony.

Closed Thursdays. 175 Tung Hei Rd., Shau Kei Wan, 2569-1500.

Hong Kong Museum of History — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. But it’s the reconstruction of a post-war street, complete with tram and traveling Chinese opera company, that really grabs the attention.

100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042.

Hong Kong Science Museum — Great for kids, thanks to about 500 permanent exhibits that explore all aspects of science and technology, including robotics, virtual reality and transportation. Best of all, about 70 percent of the displays are interactive, meaning the little ones can play with them. A popular feature is the 20-meter-high energy machine.

Closed Thursdays. 2 Science Museum Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2732-3232.

Hong Kong Space Museum — Explore the final frontier at the Space Museum and learn all about astronomy and space technology.

One of the largest planetariums in the world features daily Omnimax screenings and Sky shows. Closed Tuesdays. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0226.

Liang Yi Museum — Liang Yi is dedicated to promoting Chinese antique arts: you'll find over 300 pieces of treasured furniture, ceramics and knickknacks here-they're some of the best examples from the Ming and Qing dynasties that still remain. Catch Liang Y's distinguished lectures held on every first Tuesday of the month. Closed Sundays, Mondays, and Public Holidays. Admission costs $200. 181-199 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2806-8280.

Madame Tussauds Hong Kong — The local branch of the world-famous Madame Tussauds wax museum encourages visitors to touch and pose with the figures. Local celebrities include Jackie Chan, Andy Lau and Michelle Yeoh. Also, where else in the Fragrant Harbor can you pose with Lady Gaga, Barack Obama and Yao Ming.

Shop P101, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-6966.

Hong Kong Museum Of Medical Sciences

Museum of Medical Sciences — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both Western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Closed Mondays. 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels, 2549-5123.

Police Museum — This interesting little museum has more than 600 artifacts relating to the Hong Kong Police, from the force’s inception in 1844 to today. It’s split into four sections including a gallery devoted to triad societies, the equivalent of gangs. Closed on public holidays. 27 Coombe Rd., The Peak, 2849-7019.

Sam Tung Uk Museum — Offering a fascinating insight into Hong Kong’s past, Sam Tung Uk (‘three rows of dwelling’) is a restored 200year-old walled village. The 2,000-squaremeter museum includes an ancestral hall, two rows of side houses, an exhibition hall and a lecture hall. It contains displays of period furniture, handicrafts and agricultural equipment. Closed Tuesdays. 2 Kwu Uk Lane, Tsuen Wan, 2411-2001.

Address: Ground Floor, 1E Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong.

(Opposite the Holiday Inn Golden Mile Hotel’s Mody Road entrance) Telephone: 2368-0040, 2723-0056 Email: laelite@netvigator.com 九龍尖沙咀麼地道1E地下 (金域假日酒店麼地道入口對面)

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dining | The Guide

Some Like It Hot Craving something with a little more kick? Priscilla Yu goes in search of the reddest, hottest, most tongue-numbing Sichuan restaurants in town.

Fagara ’Bout It Chilli Fagara’s burnished red walls and dark wood furniture echo the flavors of the food. The menu is a treat for chili addicts, with delicious gingery fried beef, pork slices to dip in chili and garlic sauces, and baby squid that swim amidst a sea of chilies.

Shop E, G/F, 51A Graham St., Central, 2893-3330.

House of Dancing Chilies Check out Sichuan House for a range of spicy Chengdu specialties, like crispy pork jowls, beef and pig’s tongues in chili sauce and homemade crispy eel. Need a break from the heat? Try the iced black fungus or marinated beef slices for a quiet respite.

A go-to is the Pi County fish in doubanjiang ($248)—a soy-based paste that’s both spicy and salty. Bashu spicy prawns ($220), the hottest dish on the menu, are not for the faint-hearted—consider yourself warned.

7/F, M88, 2 Wellington St., Central, 2521-6699.

Mask Your Tears It’s hard to miss the traditional Chinese opera masks dramatically hanging from the ceiling at Mask of Si Chuen & Beijing, which is known for its bold décor and bolder flavors. Signature dishes include simmered beef with chili broth ($178) and shrimp with ginger chili sauce ($158), which is served on a sizzling platter. Or go all out and order the steamed fish head with pickled chili ($268)—but be warned: the light, sour and spicy broth has a kick. Vegetarians are taken care of with a dedicated menu, but the veggie dishes are just as chili-loaded.

Shop 33, G/F, Tsim Sha Tsui East Station (near Exit K), 2311-9233.

Private Spices First garnering popularity as a private kitchen, Sijie Sichuan Restaurant recently opened its own restaurant. It’s traded in its cozy surroundings, but the warm hospitality is a permanent fixture. Ideal for those new to Sichuan cuisine, the menu offers a solid mix of standard spicy dishes—think pork belly or poached fish swimming in chili oil—as well as easier options, such as Sichuan prawns, beans and minced pork.

10/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 2802-2250.

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Me & Yu Yu offers no-frills dining with all the classic Sichuan recipes. The menu here is overflowing with chili-drenched concoctions, including mouthwatering chicken, sour and spicy glass noodles ($52) and fragrant spicy bean jelly noodles ($32), which are served cold. Soothe your suffering with a chilled soy milk ($15) after your meal.

4 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 2838-8198.

Yun Numb Nom Around for almost 20 years but recently relocated, Yun Yan has perfected the art of balancing those Sichuan flavors. The must-tries include the sliced beef appetizers ($78), as well as the tossed chilled noodles with pork in spicy garlic soy sauce. The house-made eight-flavor tofu ($88) is creative and delicious—choose your dipping sauce or just pour them all on at once. Cool down after dinner with drunken chili chocolate ice cream ($48) or one of the flavored tofu smoothies.

Shop 1001B, 10/F, Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2375-0800.

dining

Time For Tea Two afternoon tea specials. By Adele Wong

The Envoy

Palm Court Newly renovated and reopened Palm Court has partnered up with English pottery maker Wedgwood to create an afternoon tea served in exquisite cups and saucers designed with rose motifs, made especially for the occasion. At $428 per head or $698 per couple, the set includes lychee mousse pastries, gold-topped chocolates and other delectable treats.

Available on weekdays from 3-5:30pm, and weekends and public holidays from 2:15-4:15pm, or 4:30-6:30pm.

The Langham, 8 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2132-7898.

The Envoy, which debuted as the lounge bar of The Pottinger earlier this year, is serving 3-6pm tiffin sessions—using actual tea as the theme for their snacks. There are scones infused with smoky lapsang souchong, brioches stuffed with chrysanthemum jelly, and fruit-tea-flavored macarons in the $498 deal, which serves two and comes with two pots of Dilmah Ceylon tea.

And of course, this being a Charlene Dawes and Antonio Lai establishment, there are four cocktail pairings available for an extra $100 each.

3/F, The Pottinger, 74 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2169-3311.

Central 8 1/2 Otto E Mezzo Bombana — Italian $$$$ Chef Umberto Bombana’s unique brand of contemporary Italian cuisine is offered in the regularly changing decadent lunch and dinner sets (though an a la carte menu is also available). Shop 202, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-8859.

Aberdeen Street Social

Aberdeen Street Social — British $$$$ Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton and entrepreneur Yenn Wong collaborate for the third time to launch Aberdeen Street Social, bringing their take on modern British cuisine to the hipsters of Hong Kong. G/F, JPC Building, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2866-0300.

BEP Vietnamese Kitchen — Vietnamese $$ BÊP is a comfortable, no-fuss SoHo restaurant from the team behind popular Vietnamese restaurant Nha Trang-offering up an open kitchen, good service and excellent food. LG/F, 9-11 Staunton St., Central, 2522-7533.

China Tang — Chinese $$$$ Following the success of Island Tang and Kowloon Tang, Sir David Tang continues with China Tang, offering top delicacies from Beijing, Sichuan and Guangdong in a luxurious setting. Shop 411-413, 4/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2522-2148.

Chom Chom — Vietnamese $$ It seems a bold move, to not serve pho at a place that calls itself Vietnamese-but it works. Diners are squeezed into a posh but tiny space that’s mostly eaten up by a large L-shaped bar. Beer and Vietnamese street foods are the two key elements at this new space. G/F, Block A, 58-60 Peel St., Central, 2810-0850.

Ciak — Italian $$$ Backed by chef Umberto Bombana, Sir David Tang and media mogul Peter Lam, Ciak offers casual Italian fare including bread, pizza and pasta, either for takeaway or for a quick eat-in. 3/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2522-8869.

Comfort — Fusion $$$ Comfort is an eastmeets-west type of resto, with beef brisket curry co-existing alongside English sausages and gravy. One more item, not to be missed: a hoisin-sauce-glazed pork belly bao (steamed bun). 5/F, Grand Progress Building, 15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2521-8638.

Fatty Crab — American $$$ Situated half way up Old Bailey Street, this bar/resto offers Pan-Asian cuisine, specialty cocktails and creations galore—including the mighty Pickleback shot. G/F, 11-13 Old Bailey St., Central, 2521-2033.

Fish & Meat — Western $$$ Fish & Meat is all about family-style plates, heavily focused on seafood. Baby spanish octopus, roasted Alaskan cod, and pan-fried sea bream are some of the dishes on offer. 1-2/F, 32 Wyndham St., Central, 2565-6788.

Ho Lee Fook — Chinese $$ HLF is a cheeky, modern take on Chinese cuisine, courtesy of Aussie chef Jowett Yu (of Ms. G’s and Mr. Wong in Sydney). The venue consists of a ground floor open kitchen decked out in mahjong tiles, and a dark and funky basement dining room. LG-G/F, 1-5 Elgin St., Central, 2810-0860. n o v e m b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 21

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dining | The Guide La Vache — French $$$ Inspired by the Le Relais de l’Entrecôte chain from Paris, La Vache is a brasserie-style space that specializes in the classic European dish. 48 Peel St., Central, 2880-0248.

Le Port Parfume — French $$$ Le Port Parfume sources its fish and other marine creatures from Hong Kong waters. Expect wildcaught seafood, cooked French-style. Shop C, 6-10 Kau U Fong, Central, 2824-3018.

Loyal Dining — Chinese $ At Loyal Dining, you’ll find fried rice alongside garlicky soft escargot, foie gras and char siu (barbecue pork), signature roast pigeon and beef Wellington Hong Kong-style (served on a hot iron plate).

66 Wellington St., Central, 3125-3000.

Lung King Heen

Lung King Heen — Cantonese $$$$ The xiaolongbao (pork dumplings) at this three-Michelin-starred restaurant come with little handles so they reach your mouth without breaking. The steamed shrimp and scallop dumplings with a topping of XO sauce are pure magic. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8888.

Mama San — Southeast Asian $$$ Aussie chef Will Meyrick’s popular and uber-trendy Mama San comes from Bali to Central. Not as roomy and high-ceilinged as the mothership, Mama San HK still remains faithful to the original decor, complete with MS Bali’s signature wall mural.

1/F, 46 Wyndham St., Central, 2881-8901.

Peking Garden — Chinese $$$ This famouswith-tourists restaurant tucked into the basement of Alexandra House is known for its signature Peking duck and other Chinese delicacies. The restaurant is also known for its Beggar’s chicken, which has to be ordered at least two days in advance. Shop B1, Alexandra House, 16-20 Chater Rd., Central, 2526-6456.

Pierre — French $$$ Chef Pierre Gagnaire’s famously innovative dishes are on offer at this upscale two-Michelin-star diner at the Mandarin Oriental. Modern French is the name of the game, and the menu changes every season. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, Central, 2825-4001.

Sanche — Korean $$ Sanche is dishing out modern Korean on Wellington Street.

Salads and traditional Korean specialties like tokbokki (spicy rice cakes) will be given slight re-interpretations. Shop C, 28-32 Gage St., Central, 2628-3248.

Sichuan House — Sichuan $ The menu’s chili ratings can be misleading: even dishes with no chili contain a bit of zing. Then again—if you didn’t like spice, why choose Sichuanese in the first place? 7/F, M88, 2 Wellington St., Central, 2521-6699.

Tim Ho Wan — Dimsum $ If you’re looking for some Michelin-starred dim sum, just head over to IFC Mall and look for the place with the giant line of people waiting outside. Must-try items include the baked barbecue pork buns and steamed shrimp rice rolls, both of which will leave your stomach and your wallet happy.

Shop 12A, 1/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2332-3078.

He Jiang — Shanghainese $$ He Jiang fuses numbingly hot Sichuan cuisine with light and sweet Huaiyang cuisine. Try the spicy crab hotpot for a meal to remember. 1/F, Cosmopolitan Hotel, 387-397 Queen’s Rd. East, Causeway Bay, 3167-7833.

Shun Kee Typhoon Shelter — Chinese $$$ Shun Kee is a collection of sampans close to the Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter, serving mostly classic typhoon shelter-style seafood (read: steamed or fried). Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter, Causeway Bay, 8112-0075.

Under Bridge Spicy Crab — Chinese $$$ The Under Bridge Spicy Crab restaurants are all within walking distance of each other, varying from a hole-in-the-wall to a Zen-modern interior. But they all serve typhoon-shelter crabs: large, sweet crustaceans topped with mounds of fried garlic and chili. Shop 1-2, G/F, 414-424 Jaffe Rd., Causeway Bay, 2573-7698.

Wooloomooloo Prime — Australian $$$ In the same building as the Wooloomooloo group’s newest gastropub, The Chop House, is the latest Wooloomooloo Prime, sticking to its time-tested repertoire of great Aussie steaks and a sky-high view. 27-28/F, Soundwill Plaza II, 1 Tang Lung St., Causeway Bay, 2771-3600.

Wan Chai 22 Ships — Spanish $$$ British chef Jason Atherton’s 22 Ships, named for its address, is a sparsely decorated tapas bar with unfinished floors that serves small plates with a modern twist. Since it takes no reservations, the intimate venue is always packed. 22 Ship St., Wan Chai, 2555-0722.

Causeway Bay

Man Wah Restaurant — Cantonese $$$ Straight-up Cantonese fare with an amazing harbor view in an atmosphere of old-world elegance. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Rd., Central, 2825-4003.

An Nam

Mott 32

Mott 32 — Cantonese $$$$ Mott 32 is restaurant group Maximal Concepts’ first foray into Chinese cuisine, and like its other restaurants, it’s dark, dramatic and exclusive.

B/F, Standard Chartered Building, 4-4A Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2885-8688.

Numero 15 — Spanish $$$ At Numero 15, you’re getting uber-trendy tapas such as boneless suckling pig, Iberico belly mantou (yes, that’s Chinese steamed bun) and tender ox tongue skewers as well as homemade mascarpone cheesecakes and chocolate mousse in a jar.

G/F, 15 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2362-0881.

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An Nam — Vietnamese $$ An Nam serves Vietnamese-style dishes in an exquisitely designed setting. Diners can savor fresh seafood and roast meats as well as traditional delicacies from the region of Hue. 4/F, Lee Gardens One, 33 Hysan Ave., Causeway Bay, 2787-3922.

Bao Wow

Bao Wow — Chinese $ Bao Wow is a sizzling little fast food diner just a block from hipster Ship Street, serving the fluffy Chinese-style tacos wrapped in steamed Chinese buns in relatively affordable combos. Shop 2, 28 Tai Wong St. East, Wan Chai, 2528-9505.

Din Tai Fung — Chinese $ The xiaolongbao at Taiwanese chain restaurant Din Tai Fung are some of the most delectable soup-filled pork dumplings in the city, with delicately fine skin and succulent, juicy meat. Shop 3-9, G/F, 68 Yee Wo St., Causeway Bay, 3160-8998.

Gonpachi — Japanese $$$ The glorious Tokyo establishment that inspired one of the signature killing scenes in “Kill Bill” has spawned a branch in Causeway Bay’s Lee Gardens. Keep in mind that Gonpachi is not a specialist restaurant. It serves everything: sushi, grilled goods, tempura, rice boxes and noodles. 4/F, The Lee Gardens, 33 Hysan Ave., Causeway Bay, 2787-3688.

Bo Innovation

Bo Innovation — Asian $$$ “Demon chef” Alvin Leung is known for his innovative takes on Asian cuisine. Steamed soup dumplings get

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dining | The Guide transformed into different shapes, textures and sizes, and many other things don’t look like they’re supposed to at this three-Michelinstarred restaurant. 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2850-8371.

Le Bistro Winebeast — French $$ This petite and charming French bistro is the dining arm of nearby wine shop Winebeast, so not only do you pay store prices for your tipples while you dine, but there are also 120 varieties on the menu. 15 McGregor St., Wan Chai, 2479-6833.

Le Relais de L’Entrecote — $$ This is the Parisian original, from the family that put steakfrites on the foodie map. 2/F, Garden East, 222 Queen’s Rd. East, Wan Chai, 2891-9080 .

Tsim Sha Tsui Above & Beyond — Chinese $$$ Go to this narrow but inviting restaurant for a variety of innovative dim sum dishes and expertly tweaked Chinese mains. 28/F, Hotel Icon, 17 Science Museum Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3400-1318.

FINDS — Scandinavian $$$ For something totally different, try the Scandinavian food at FINDS (the name stands for Finland, Iceland, Norway, Denmark and Sweden), which serves excellent fish, game and meat dishes. 1/F, The Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2522-9318.

Qi House of Sichuan — Sichuan $$$ The menu here covers everything from the standard mala dishes to sweet and sour fish and even Kung Pao chicken. 2/F, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-7117.

The Principal — Modern European $$$ Soft shades of color, cushy chairs and bright lighting make The Principal a very comfortable place to be. Head chef Jonay Armas serves dishes from his childhood home in the Canary Islands.

9 Star St., Wan Chai, 2563-3444.

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Morton’s Of Chicago

Morton’s Of Chicago — American $$$$$ This renovated steakhouse with contemporary interiors offers new signatures like a fivepeppercorn rubbed strip steak and a USDA

bone-in rib-eye. Seafood lovers also get to enjoy dishes like a Chilean sea bass fillet.

4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2732-2343.

Spring Deer — Chinese $ At this loud, busy establishment that’s starting to show its age, you feel the quasi-nostalgic vibe as soon as you walk in, and it really makes the experience.

Get the Peking duck. 1/F, 42 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-4012.

Whisk — Modern European $$$ Whisk is known for its contemporary European dishes and extensive wine list that is relatively more affordable than other fine diners. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., 2368-1111.

Price Guide $ Less than $200 $$ $200-$399 $$$ $400-$599

$$$$ $600-$799 $$$$$ $800 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course and dessert. Prices do not include bottles of wine unless stated.

Tel: 2730 1251

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Drinks | The Guide

Bananas for Joe An age-old bar in Wan Chai has been transformed into a sophisticated lounge. By Andrea Lo

When Wan Chai institution Joe Bananas closed its doors after 28 years, it was the end of an era… an era that was resurrected a few months later.

Now under new management, the bar’s name lives on, but it has undergone a complete change in concept and interior. You may still spot some of the old crowd, but the new JB has a totally different vibe.

To Joe Bananas’ regulars, the place now looks almost unrecognizable. The sliding doors opening on to Luard Road

feel remarkably more sophisticated than in the past. We were pleasantly surprised by the spacious, urban-chic interior—featuring exposed bricks, steel, stone, wood and timber—which manages to incorporate some of its original décor, like the John Lennon mural on the wall. The bar comes complete with a stage for live performances by cover bands—essential for any Wan Chai bar worth its salt.

Aside from an extensive list of bottled beers and five brews on tap,

check out some of the cocktails on offer. We liked the Magic Mango ($85), made with rum, honey and a dash of cinnamon on top.

Joe Bananas has aspirations of becoming Wan Chai’s newest finedining destination. Try it out for yourself: on the menu are roast pork rolls, T-bone steaks, quesadillas and the like.

There’s also a buffet lunch available on weekdays.

23 Luard Rd., Wan Chai, 2529-1811.

121BC — 121BC is a wine lover’s heaven. Enjoy top-of-the-range wines sourced from Italy paired with a rustic Italian menu. 42-44 Peel St., Central, 2395-0200.

recipes by heart. This nightspot is exclusive, fitting only 18 people and allowing groups with a maximum of five people. 5/F, Mody House, 30 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-3828.

brewery Young Master Ales. Craft Brew also serves gourmet grilled sausages, made with some unusual ingredients. G/F, 17 Old Bailey St., Central, 2885-0821.

Amazake — Amazake is sandwiched between three of Hong Kong’s biggest clubs: Play, Levels, and Dizzi. It’s bright and pumping with energy, a place for large groups to pre-game before hitting the clubs next door. G/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, 2537-7787.

Common Room — Common Room is a spacious gastropub that serves international tapas dishes and mixologist-crafted cocktails right off LKF’s main drag. 1/F, Wo On Building, 8-13 Wo On Lane, Central, 2525-3599.

Fu Lu Shou — Hongkongers love a good rooftop bar, so it’s no surprise that the super-hip Fu Lu Shou is all the rage. Meaning ‘“happiness, prosperity and longevity,” Fu Lu Shou offers up cool surrounds and interesting concoctions. Not only do the innovative cocktails have a strong local flavor, but you’ll also find western-style Chinatown favorites on the menu. 7/F, 31 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2336-8812.

Aqua Spirit — Sky-high lounge bar Aqua Spirit redefines the notion of having a sophisticated drink with friends. Quoted as one of the best bars in Hong Kong, Aqua has stunning harbor and city views. 29-30/F, Penthouse, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288.

Boujis — Taking cue from its celeb-endorsed model in London, Boujis establishes an Asian branch in Hong Kong. The moody space comes alive at night with house, electro and similarly buzzing sounds. 37 Pottinger St., Central, 2324-0200.

Butler — Masayuki Uchida, the half-Cantonese, half-Japanese owner of this posh, all-wooden Japanese bar, allegedly knows 2,000 cocktail

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Grappa’s Cellar — This busy after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians.

B/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322.

Craft Brew & Co

Craft Brew & Co — Unlike other beer joints, you won’t find a single mass-produced beer here.

There are brews from the likes of Anderson Valley, Anchor and Mountain Goat and local

Guay — The Spanish invasion of the Hong Kong bar scene is still underway, and Guay is the latest to join the fray. This Tai Hang joint is situated off the main street in the midst of the auto repair shops. Yes, it’s in a hip neighborhood, but its relatively hidden location makes it a laid-back, cool spot to grab a drink or two, without the extortionate prices often found in town. 9A Sun Chun St., Tai Hang, 2618-8782.

For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at bars, restaurants and coffee shops).

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Drinks Ham & Sherry — Patterned floor-to-ceiling Azulejo tiles in sharp blue and white are the first things that catch your eye at this modestly sized venue with a bar at the back. In case it’s not obvious, sherry is the drink of choice here.

G/F, 1-7 Ship St., Wan Chai, 2555-0628.

Havana — This Cuban-themed bar on D’Aguilar Street serves up Caribbean classics like daiquiris, mojitos and drinks with all different sorts of rum. Awesome terrace available for some serious outdoor chilling. 4/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2851-4880.

Lily and Bloom — A-list celebs have been seen here, with VIPs being buzzed in and out of their fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. Expect swarms of glitterati and the party elite.

The aesthetes amongst you will be delighted at the thought that so much attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue.

6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166.

Lion Rock Bar — Lion Rock is the place to unwind and relax while sampling one of the bar’s signature cocktails. Enjoy the awesome view at their weekly wine and whisky tastings, and recharge with their sushi and all-day dining services. 3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel, 193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Mong Kok, 2622-6167.

Mavericks — If the craft beers, the threeslider platter (ahi tuna; buffalo chicken with blue cheese; wagyu beef), or the beachfront view aren’t enough, then there’s the fact that Mavericks gives you the best seats in the house to watch the sun set on a perfect beachfront day. Pui O Beach (next to Pui O campsite), South Lantau Rd., Lantau Island, 5402-4154.

Origin — The name is a bit of a giveaway— gin is high up on the menu here. With famed mixologist Antonio Lai at the helm, Origin serves up a delectable selection of every single kind of gin you can think of—and then a few more for good measure. G/F, 48 Wyndham St., Central, 2668-5583.

Ozone — Located 118 floors above the ground, this bar boasts the title of the highest bar in Hong Kong. With an extensive—and expensive—menu of bubbly bottles and cocktails, this bar is a must-see, mainly because of its sky-high, drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2263.

Peak Bar — The name’s a little confusing, but this is a cozy, laid-back spot with fab peoplewatching right by the Mid-Levels Escalator.

9-13 Shelley St., Central, 2140-6877.

Play — Head to the lounge room, equipped with two standard pool tables, for happy hour drink specials and exceedingly tasty bar snacks with friends, or head to the dance floor and shake your body to the beats. 1/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, 2525-1318.

Quinary — This chic hangout off of Hollywood Road serves some awesome cocktails by molecular mixologist Antonio Lai. The Earl Grey caviar martini and the oolong tea Collins are both highly recommended. 56-58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-3223.

Tapagria — If you’re looking for tapas and sangria with a view, look no further than Tapagria, situated on the high floors of The One shopping mall. Enjoy one of the 65 sangria concoctions, alongside dishes like paella and croquettes. 18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2147-0111.

Red Bar

Red Bar — Great for alfresco drinks, this is a popular spot with suits and gym bunnies, who hustle over for a low-cal meal and a sinful cocktail or three. One of the largest terraces in town, with an awesome view. 4/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882.

The Globe — The homey 3,500-square-foot pub has a massive bar area, a dining area, a lounge and booths, keeping an old-school aesthetic with brand-new wooden furniture.

Boasting extensive beer offerings and a lively vibe, there’s also a wide selection of board games and books to wile away the hours.

G/F, Garley Building, 45-53 Graham St., Central, 2543-1941.

Rockabilly — Head up LKF and you’ll be sure to catch Rockabilly’s loud, red neon logo and cheeky signs. Inspired by tattoo parlors and vintage car repair shops, the 1950s Americana joint has two floors: a narrow ground floor with a bar, and a roomier upstairs complete with a Juliet balcony that’s great for late-night people-watching. 12 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2869-0099.

Salon de Ning — A stylishly ostentatious bar lounge inspired by the opulent private residences of 1930s Shanghai celebutante Madame Ning. This is retroluxe at its finest, with four fabulous themed rooms surrounding the main Art Deco lounge. Best savored with a Ning Sling. B/F, The Peninsula Hong Kong, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6705.

Sevva — A spacious alfresco terrace surrounds super-stylish restaurant and lounge Sevva, offering unique, panoramic views over Hong Kong. A perfect place to watch the Symphony of Lights. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-1388.

Shore — A swanky submarine-themed bar with one of the most extensive drinks selection in town. Cocktail lovers can go for a “Surprise Me”—choose an ingredient and have the bartender create a unique 10-minute martini, made from fresh fruits and herbs. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, Central, 2915-1638.

The Lawn

The Lawn — This outdoor garden illuminated entirely by a few candles is a genuine urban oasis with a serene, intimate vibe.

Lounge atop the tastefully arranged beanbags and comfortable couches. 6/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106.

The Tonno — Multi-faceted complex The Tonno features a bar, clubbing zone, restaurant, live music lounge, VIP party enclaves and karaoke rooms—in short, it takes “all-around entertainment” to a whole new level. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.

The Woods — This basement bar is decked out in nature-inspired decor—hence the name— and shakes up creative and painstakingly crafted cocktails. LG/F, 17 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2522-0281.

Show Club — Expect the kind of bottle-poppin’, booty-droppin’ action normally seen in rap videos come to life at this late-night club on the corner of Wyndham, right in the center of the action. G-1/F, 29 Wyndham St., Central, 2656-9338.

Tipping Point Brewing Co — Craft beer hangout Tipping Point serves IPAs, stouts and wheat beers instead of standard commercial varieties. The bar is the brainchild of chef and restaurateur Que Vinh Dang. 29 Wyndham St., Central, 2868-2892.

Stockton — An apparent imitation of the turn-of-the-20th century decadent gentlemen’s club, Stockton is hidden in a poorly lit alleyway of Wyndham Street. Once inside, the bar transforms into a posh and glamorous space, decorated with elaborate furniture and antiques, perfect for intimate and romantic nights-out. G/F, 32 Wyndham St., Central, 2565-5268.

Volar — Strictly speaking, basement club Volar is members-only, but you might get lucky.

It’s worth the effort as this is one of the most happening spots in Central, with frequent appearances by top international DJs. The space is split into a club area, with state-ofthe-art sound and lighting systems, and a more chilled-out lounge. B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510.

Sugar — Located on the 32nd floor, with an outdoor deck area some 300 feet above Victoria Harbour, this is the perfect place for patrons to soak up the stunning skyline and sea views Hong Kong has to offer. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Quarry Bay, 3968-3738.

Volume H.E.A.T — This chill tapas bar serves some of the cheapest drinks in our metropolis to a mostly gay clientele—it’s two for one on most drinks during happy hour (noon-9pm). L/G, 83-85 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2857-7683. n o v e m b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 27

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ShopS+Services | The Guide

Great Expectations Get pampered in the brand new treatment rooms at the Mandarin Spa. By Crystal Lee The newly revamped Mandarin Spa now has a selection of nine different rooms, including two VIP suites, a Thai massage room, a new couples room, and three individual rooms. The Patchouli room for couples has been equipped with a luxurious steam shower and relaxation area, and the Thai massage room has been furnished with a spacious, custom-made Thai bed.

The Mandarin Spa provides a wide selection of treatments and packages, including traditional Thai massage. Couples can enjoy appointments side-by-side by choosing sessions like the two-

hour "Time Together" experience.

Also try the spa's signature Time Rituals, which provide personalized treatments that target specific needs.

Other than the treatments themselves, the spa features a variety of unique facilities, such as a Chinese herb steam room, a hydrotherapy Kneipp pool, a relaxation area, an indoor pool, and a fitness center.

The Mandarin Spa is open from 10am to 11pm on weekdays, and 9am to 11pm on weekends.

Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, Central, 2522-0111.

Shopping Centers

LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street.

8 Argyle St., Mongkok, 3520-2800, www. langhamplace.com.hk.

APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am).

It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 3148-1200.

IFC Mall

Elements

ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping.

Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous roof garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234.

IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international highend brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308.

HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala.

2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089.

HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8666.

ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2890-6823.

HYSAN PLACE — This mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of high-quality dining options. 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222.

THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium.

Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols. 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3428-8086.

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LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-5227, www.hysan.com.hk.

Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place

PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema.

88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8988.

Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.

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ShopS+Services | The Guide PRINCE’S BUILDING — Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkways to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uberfashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket.

10 Chater Rd., Central, 2500-0555.

LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with musthave designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388.

One Peking — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier.

1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3417-3000.

SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections.

555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.

Rise Commercial Building — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2384-8728.

Squarestreet

Squarestreet — Seriously hipster shoes and accessories. G/F, 15 Square St., Sheung Wan, 2362-1086.

TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 13-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket City’super, Page One books and a cinema.

1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.

Shops, Boutiques and Local Designers Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men.

Shop 123, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2104-7934.

Daydream Nation — A locally grown label that incorporates fashion with other art forms like theater, dance, music, film and visual arts.

They offer their own collection of clothing and accessories as well as works from local artists and indie bands. Daydream Nation Circus Shop, 2/F, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2817-6313.

G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876.

Kapok — Offers meticulously selected international and local brands for menswear, womenswear, bags and accessories, as well as lifestyle products. G/F, 5, St Francis Yard, Wan Chai, 2549-9254.

Tang Tang Tang Tang

Tang tang tang tang — Sir David Tang's casual lifestyle store stocks everything from rice cookers to pyjamas. G/F, 66 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2525-2112.

Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist.

Shop 417, Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2506-2088.

Walter Ma — Well-established designer offering luxury fashion. 174 Wellington St., Central, 2307-1599.

Western Market — An Edwardian-styled building with restaurants and shops selling Chinese crafts and fabrics. 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 6029-2675.

Wudai Shiguo — This shop in the trendy Star Street neighborhood is a collaboration between a group of local designers and stocks American-style fashion and accessories.

9B1 St. Francis St., Wan Chai, 2528-3800.

Department Stores Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant— the Fourth Floor —and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388.

The Swank

THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freestanding boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2175-4228.

Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. Shop 220, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2735-4061.

YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 301-309 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3511-2222.

Tailors DAVID FASHIONs — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884.

L & K bespoke Tailor — G/F, Mirador Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278.

Shanghai Tang SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams.

The flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.

SPY Henry Lau — Edgy and bold fashion for men and women. Suite B, 1/F, Cleveland Mansion, 5 Cleveland St., Causeway Bay, 2317-6928.

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Nita Fashions — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim vSha Tsui. 2721-9990, www.nitafashions.com.

Joyce

JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares.

G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2810-1120; Shop 232, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944; Shop G106, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2907-2228.

Punjab House — 5/F, Suite C, Golden Crown Court, 66-70 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612, www.punjabhouse.com.hk.

Raja Fashions — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624, www.raja-fashions.com.

REGAL fashion — G/F, Shop 15, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-6007.

Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 90-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423.

ShopS+Services Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1251.

SPAS CHUAN SPA — This stunning spa focuses on the individual needs of each client through traditional Chinese medicine and theories, including yin and yang. Its consultants are qualified in Chinese medicine, massage and naturopathy. 41/F, Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3510, www.chuanspa.com.

Plateau Spa

PLATEAU SPA — This whopping 80,000-squarefoot spa offers overnight accommodation and an extensive range of facial and body treatments in 23 rooms and suites. Other facilities include a 50-meter outdoor pool, fitness and exercise studios, a poolside grill restaurant and a tree-lined courtyard. 11/F, Grand Hyatt, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2588-1234, www.hongkong.grand.hyatt.com.

THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS — This urban sanctuary is everything you would expect from the Four Seasons: 22,000 square feet of sumptuousness, including Finnish saunas, an ice fountain, a crystal fountain, vitality pools and an amethyst crystal steam room. Two spa suites include a pool for two, day beds and a private bar. 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8900, www.fourseasons. com/hongkong.

TEN FEET TALL — Go to Ten Feet Tall for a slightly different foot massage experience in an exotic ambience. The foot massage center features bright and sunny beach cabanas with pine, bamboo, natural marble and bright décor. The place’s signature treatments include genuine foot reflexology, shoulder and neck massage, pressure point massage and aromatic oil massage. 20-21/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2971-1010, www.tenfeettall.com.hk.

HAIR Flawless

FLAWLESS — This all-in-one shop offers makeup and nail services as well as spa treatments in a spacious upper-level venue. 4/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2869-5868.

IYARA DAY SPA — This Central institution offers everything from manis and pedis to facials, waxing and massage treatments. 1/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2545-8638.

KIWI SPA — With light green glass, curved walls and soft light and gentle music, Kiwi offers quality foot and body massages that are affordable at the same time. iPads and headsets are available to use at your leisure while you're enjoying the treatments. 14/F, Century Square Building, 1-13 D'Aguilar St., Central, 2567-1333, www.kiwi-hk.com.

MANDARIN SPA — This luxe retreat has eight private treatment rooms, including two couples’ suites, each with private steam shower and pool. Its therapies combine ancient and contemporary techniques, and specialist practitioners offer treatments that incorporate ayurvedic philosophies and traditional Chinese medicine. 24/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4888, www.mandarinoriental.com/ hongkong.

MEN’S SKIN CENTRE BY BELLA — This center has tailor-made treatments that focus on deep cleansing, acne treatment, and rehydration to brighten and improve your complexion.

It also offers laser hair removal services.

9/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-6352, www.bellaskin.com.

MIRASPA — It’s pampering for the 21st century.

The Mira Spa is comfortably futuristic, with purple and pure white accents and an indoor pool decorated with twinkling lights.

Facilities include a jacuzzi plus steam and sauna rooms—and nifty waterbeds in the pre-treatment room. B3/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 23155500, www.themirahotel.com.

Sense Of Touch

SENSE OF TOUCH — This award-winning day spa boasts an extensive menu, featuring such services as a couple’s deep tissue and detoxifying massage, a rose hydrating cocoon body wrap and a “forever young” facial.

The lush spa also offers a range of exclusive signature treatments, including the Elemis hot stone therapy for body and face. 1-5/F, 52 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2526-6918, www.senseoftouch.com.hk.

THE PENINSULA SPA BY ESPA — This two-floor spa has sweeping harbor views. Designed by Henry Leung, the interior fuses contemporary and traditional Chinese elements. Much attention has been given to detail, including 100-percent Egyptian cotton robes and fully automated Clodagh Gemini treatment beds. 7/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2969-6682, www.hongkong.peninsula.com.

AIMEE AT THE SHANGRI-LA — Staffed by international stylists offering everything from bridal makeovers, haircuts, coloring and waves to manicures, pedicures and professional makeup application. 8/F,Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-1339.

AIRPLAY BLOW DRY BAR — Get your hair and makeup done all at once at Airplay, and choose from different looks like “Sea Breeze” (wavy hair) or “Mojito” (playful curls). 7/F, W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2641-9888, www.airplaybar.com.

QG PRIVATE I SALON — Located in the Four Seasons, the flagship of the Private I group is suitably beautiful, with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out onto an astounding harbor view. Expect to find yourself rubbing shoulders with politicians, tycoons and the jet set. 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 2521-0070, www.privatei.com.hk.

NAILS NAIL NAIL — This is the place for innovative nails, including gel nails, airbrushing and the truly decadent one-carat diamond manicure, which is by appointment only. It also offers waxing and temporary tattoos. Shop 1091A, 1/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2366-9322, www.nailnail.com.hk.

The Ritz-Carlton Spa

THE RITZ-CARLTON SPA BY ESPA — Get pampered at the highest hotel spa in the world. Located on the 116th floor, this relaxing retreat looms over the city and offers majestic views of Victoria Harbour.

Spa guests can also take a dip in the hotel's sky-high infinity pool after their treatments.

116/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 22632040, www.ritzcarlton.com/hongkong.

NAIL SPA — Nail services and treatments for men and women are the specialty here, including French manicures and paraffin foot therapy.

Gel and acrylic nails are available along with nail painting, embossed nail art, semi-precious gemstones, crystal embossing and graduated nail painting. 1/F, 8 Pak Sha Rd., Causeway Bay, 2478-9333, www.nailspa.com.hk.

THE LOFT — A spin-off of The Nail Library in Sheung Wan, this new Central shop right by the escalators offers men’s barbering services, facials as well as hand and foot spa treatments— and of course, manicures and pedicures. 2/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2618-8623.

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Navigate | The Guide

Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call the Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm.

Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions, plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals, as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.

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Get Moving

Octopus Cards

Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.

These are “wave-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.

Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices.

Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English, but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.

The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted.

Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them.

Three types of Octopus cards are available.

The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value.

The “Sold Octopus” costs $48, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.

Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.

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Navigate | The Guide Buses

Not Just Black and White

Hong Kong has two major bus companies:

Ever wondered what old Hong Kong really looked like? Victor Liu brings the color back to black-and-white historical photographs of the city. The founder of Colourised Hong Kong tells Yannie Chan about hunting down the palettes of the past.

citybus / New World First BUS — 2136-8888/2873-0818, www.nwstbus.com.hk.

Kowloon Motor Bus — 2745-4466, www.kmb.hk.

Sights & Attractions

Avenue of Stars

Do you think black-and-white photos are not as cool as color photos?

Not at all. They make photos more artistic, but black-and-white used to be the only option. Color brings more perspective to what life was like and helps people to see details better.

by German photographer Hedda Morrison, who came to Hong Kong after WWII. This is Statue Square, and the statue of Queen Victoria is missing—gone, to Japan! Fortunately the statue survived, and now it’s in Victoria Park.

Why do you enjoy colorizing photos?

You have to dig deep into the photo’s history. For example, the HSBC building has gone through several iterations: to colorize it, I needed to know who designed it, the building style, and so on. Sometimes it takes a long time to determine the correct shade. Often you have to be patient and let the colors come to you.

What’s the biggest difference between now and then?

The speed of development is unimaginable. Take the shifting coastline of Hong Kong Island: The present HSBC building used to be the coast. Economic development is necessary over time, but sadly, many beautiful buildings are gone.

Which photos are the hardest?

Street photos are very difficult — I don’t colorize a photo unless I’m confident about the exact colors.

Portraits only take a couple of hours, but street photos can take weeks.

How do you pick the exact colors?

Making the photo authentic is very important, or you lose the whole point. I worry about the accuracy of my photos. There are some comments saying, “The policeman’s uniform is not that color!” I painted it green and someone said it should be dark blue or black. I don’t know for sure, but the research I’ve done points to green.

What’s the most interesting thing you’ve learned about Hong Kong?

Take this photo (above and below)

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If you had the chance, would you go back in time?

No, my favorite time period of Hong Kong is actually now. Even though the buildings in those days were beautiful, life was difficult. We now have good housing and a good economy. Of course, politically, it’s messy. I would maybe go on a short trip to the past, just to see the colors for myself.

Follow Colourised Hong Kong for weekly updates at facebook.com/ colourisedhk.

Avenue of Stars — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes' hand and footprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars, as well as a statue of Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly music-and-laser extravaganza called the Symphony of Lights. Music only plays over the loudspeakers here, although the harborfront light display can be seen from around the city.

Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, Tsim Sha Tsui.

Big Buddha

Big Buddha — Situated beside Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island is the Big Buddha—the largest seated outdoor bronze Buddha in the world. The statue is set amid mountains and hiking trails, and is most impressive seen while in the cable car from Tung Chung. Nearby is The Wisdom Path, lined with wood carvings featuring the calligraphy from an important text for Confucians, Buddhists and Taoists. The vegetarian restaurant within the monastery is the best option if you're famished. Ngong Ping Village, Lantau Island, 2985-5248.

Cheung Sha Beach — Catch a ferry from Central Pier 6 to Mui Wo, then take Bus 1, 2 or 4 to Cheung Sha. Stretching for three glorious kilometers along Lantau's south coast, Cheung Sha is Hong Kong's longest beach. With silky soft sand and the towering Sunset Peak as a backdrop, it's an island paradise. Lantau Island.

Chi Lin Nunnery — An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets.

It's a 33,000-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1998. It's centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds, and a stroll through the gardens makes for a bucolic escape. Vegetarian food is available in a quaint teahouse. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888.

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Navigate | The Guide

Duk Ling Chinese Sailing Junk — Launched in 1955, the Duk Ling is one of the last authentic sailing junks in Hong Kong. It can carry up to 36 passengers.

2573-5282.

Importance thanks to the thousands of migratory wading birds passing through each autumn and winter. Mai Po Nature Reserve, Yuen Long, 2482-0369.

Fa Yuen Street — Heaving with bargain hunters every afternoon, Fa Yuen Street is stuffed with cheap fashion boutiques, factory outlets and accessories stores for men, women and children. Fa Yuen St., Prince Edward.

Hong Kong Park — This eight-hectare park has a large walk-through aviary, a conservatory housing unusual and exotic plants, sports and squash centers, a multistory playground, a tai chi garden and a clock tower. In the conservation corner are more than 100 species of dragonflies.

Also worth visiting are the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware and the Hong Kong Visual Arts Centre. 19 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2521-5041.

Sam’s The Man (Just ask his customers)

Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon.

Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147

HONG KONG For Advertising rates and further information.

Call 2850 5678 36 W H E R E HONG KONG I n o v e m b e r 2 014

Man Mo Temple — This atmospheric temple must be one of the most photographed in Hong Kong. Great incense spirals dangle from the rafters, filling the roof space with aromatic smoke and lending a deep patina to the statues of gods Man Cheong (god of literature) and Kuan Ti (god of martial arts, or Mo) on the altars. 126 Hollywood Rd., near Ladder Street, Sheung Wan.

Hong Kong Wetland Park — This worldclass ecotourism attraction demonstrates the diversity of Hong Kong's wetlands, and the importance of conservation. It's a 61-hectare site with user-friendly facilities such as a stream walk, succession walk, mangrove boardwalk and bird hides.

Wetland Park Rd., Tin Shui Wai, 3152-2666.

Jade Market — In Chinese culture, jade is associated with good health and a long life. The jade market stalls sell everything from expensive carved jade to cheap trinkets, as well as pearls and other jewelry of varying quality. Kansu St. and Battery St., Yau Ma Tei. Ladies' Market — Find dog toys, trinkets and accessories, racy underwear, costume jewelry and more all along this road. Down the side lanes are vintage shops, fashion outlets and the occasional restaurant.

Tung Choi St., Mong Kok. Open daily noon-11:30pm.

This could be yours in

Man Mo Temple

Ngong Ping 360

Ngong Ping 360 — This cultural-themed village features dining, retail and entertainment attractions. The cable car offers panoramic views as it passes over North Lantau Country Park to the Big Buddha.

111 Ngong Ping Rd., Lantau Island, 3666-0606.

Ocean Park — Get up close and personal with a dolphin or a panda, walk through a shark tank, dive into a coral reef or whirl upside down on a roller coaster. Located near Aberdeen, Ocean Park manages to amuse and educate with its marine and bird life exhibits, giant panda enclosure, wild headland rides, and a cable car trip between the park's two parts. 180 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 2552-0291.

Lan Kwai Fong

Lan Kwai Fong — Thankfully closed to cars most of the time, these thoroughfares are jam-packed full of bars and nightclubs, with revelers spilling out into the streets at all hours. Attracting yuppies and visitors like moths to a flame, a good night out in Lan Kwai Fong is almost guaranteed. Lan Kwai Fong, near D'Aguilar Street, Central.

Mai Po Marshes — Who knew that Hong Kong was a bird-watchers' paradise? The 1,500-hectare Mai Po Marshes reserve is run by the World Wildlife Fund and is a designated Wetland of International

Peak Tram

Peak Tram — There was a time when the best way up the Peak was by sedan chair— a grueling experience, particularly for the bearers. So the arrival of the Peak Tram was a blessing, one for which we are still thankful.

The little funicular railway is one of the best trips in town, panting up Hong Kong Island's tallest mountain at a seemingly impossible angle that enchants all aboard. Sit on the right for the best views. St. Joseph's Building, Central, 2522-0922.

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Shek O — Take Bus 9 from Shau Kei Wan MTR Station. A wide beach on the eastern shores of Hong Kong Island, separated from the city by a twisting, 40-minute drive, Shek O is a laid-back haven popular with surfers, who kick back here after riding the waves at nearby Big Wave Bay. Sha Tin Racecourse — Join the screaming hordes at Happy Valley and Sha Tin racecourses for a few adrenalinfueled hours. Mingle with the masses in the stands, or opt for the more refined atmosphere in the boxes. The season runs September to mid-June, with about 700 races a year held an average of twice a week.

Stanley — The seaside township of Stanley has a market, shops, restaurants and bars that line a bay on one side and a beach on the other. It's the perfect place to take a walk along the waterfront, chill at an alfresco resto and pick up some souvenirs. Stanley Main St., Stanley.

Tai O — It would be wishful thinking to describe this fishing village as a Venice of the East, but there's no doubting the charm of its maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the northwestern coast of Lantau Island. It's a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, trays of smelly shrimp paste, a picturesque Tin Hau Temple at the end of a causeway and a couple of interesting little museums.

A boutique hotel and restaurant add a touch of colonial elegance to the traditional town.

NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT! Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012

Ten Thousand Buddhas

Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800 Buddhas stored in five temples, four pavilions and a nine-story pagoda. The one that you're likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin, 2691-1067.

Wong Tai Sin Temple — Named after the deity Wong Tai Sin, this Taoist temple completed its restoration in 1973 and is a popular shrine for local pilgrims who want to glimpse their future via a Chinese practice called kau cim. Lung Cheung Rd., Wong Tai Sin, 2327-8141.

Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418

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Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823

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Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay

Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728

Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918

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Walking Tours | The Guide Start at the Shau Kei Wan MTR station’s Exit C and walk along Mong Lung Street.

Turn left onto Kam Wa Street, where the tram line ends. Shing Wong Temple is adjacent to it. (Or take a tram to the Shau Kei Wan terminus to start the tour.)

Shing Wong Temple The temple was built in 1877 and was originally called Fook Tak Chi. In 1974, a new front gate was added, giving the impression of a temple within a temple, and it was renamed Shing Wong. Open 8am-5pm.

Walk along Shau Kei Wan Main Street East to Sai Yun Lane. Turn right for the Tin Hau Temple.

Tin Hau Temple This small temple dates back to 1873 and is dedicated to the goddess of the sea and a number of lesser deities. There is a pair of stone lions outside the temple, and inside you’ll find a collection of wellpreserved murals, wood carvings and Shek Wan pottery. Open 8am-5pm.

Walk along Shau Kei Wan Main Street East, and turn right on Basel Road to see Tsung Tsin Church.

Tsung Tsin Church This church was built in 1862 by local Hakkas with the help of priests from the Swiss Basel Church. When the Japanese invaded in 1941, it served as the temporary headquarters of the Japanese military police. After the war, the church was rebuilt, a school was added in 1958 and the church proper was further expanded in 1990.

Dragon dancers celebrating the birthday of Tam Kung

Follow the Temples In the old days, Shau Kei Wan provided a haven for ships and served as a typhoon shelter for fishermen. Over the years, the area became a center for shipbuilding, and a number of temples were constructed and dedicated to popular fishing community deities such as Tin Hau and Tam Kung. You can still visit them today, and they provide great color during local festivals.

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Continue along Shau Kei Wan Main Street East to A Kung Ngam Village Road. Follow the directional signs to Yuk Wong Temple.

Yuk Wong Temple Yuk Wong is credited with saving lives and fixing flooding problems. This temple was originally a shrine built in the mid-19th century by people from mainland China who worked in a nearby stone quarry.

In the early 1900s, the shrine was expanded into a small temple. Open 8am-5pm.

Follow the directional signs and cross Tung Hei Road. Turn right and you will see the Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence in front of you.

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Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence

What happened at the Pinewood Battery? *

Museum of Coastal Defence

The Lei Yue Mun Fort was built by the British in 1887 to defend Hong Kong against invasion by sea, and is home to an intriguing exhibition of military memorabilia covering the 600 years since the Ming and Qing dynasties.

It sits up high, overlooking the narrow strip of water across from Lei Yue Mun, now famous for its seafood restaurants.

The museum paints a vivid picture of Britain’s readiness to defend Hong Kong against any aggressors. Open 10am-6pm Mar-Sep, 10am-5pm Oct-Feb (closed on Thursdays). Free admission on Wednesdays. Call 2569-1500.

Walk back along Tam Kung Temple Road and follow the directional signs to the Tam Kung Temple.

Tam Kung Temple One of the few deities known only to Hong Kong, Tam Kung is also a patron of fishermen. This temple is over 100 years old and was renovated in 2002; the original design was preserved.

Besides the statue of Tam Kung, there is a small wooden junk boat and a dragon boat inside the temple. Open 8am-5pm.

For more Hong Kong walks visit www.discoverhongkong.com or call the HKTB hotline at 2508-1234.

*Learn about this and other fascinating facts in

Historical Hong Kong Hikes A guide to 15 remarkable treks, detailing the rich history of the SAR’s peaks, valleys and urban neighborhoods

In all major bookstores now! Or order yours at: www.historicalhkhikes.com

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map of Central Š OpenStreetMap contributors. See openstreetmap.org

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30 Things we LOve about Hong Kong !5

!6

@4

@3

1 Shopping at Harbour City.

3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui.

2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world's largest building constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888.

3 Slurping oysters for brunch at Café Deco. 1-2/F, The Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-5111.

4 Dining aboard the kitschycool Jumbo Floating Restaurant.

Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen, 2553-9111.

5 Spotting endangered white dolphins with Dolphinwatch off Lantau Island. 2984-1414.

6 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood.

23-24 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100.

7 Snaking through the high-rises on the Mid-Levels Escalator—the longest in the world. Cochrane, Shelley and Peel Streets, Central.

@1

@9

8 Saying hi to Bruce Lee at the Avenue of Stars, Tsim Sha Tsui.

9 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach on Lantau Island.

!0 Taking a walk down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defence. 2569-1500. !1 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall.

Stanley Street, Central. !2 Getting a shave and a trim at the Mandarin Oriental’s barber.

5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4088. !3 Being fitted for a tailor-made suit. Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. !4 Having our palms read at the Temple Street Night Market.

Yau Ma Tei. !5 Sipping on signature cocktails while taking in the spectacular view of Hong Kong Island at Aqua Spirit. 30/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288.

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!6 Cruising Victoria Harbor on the Duk Ling, an authentic Chinese junk.

2573-5282.

@3 Buying witty chinoiserie at the new Shanghai Tang flagship mansion. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.

!7 Being entertained by performances and exhibitions at the artsy Fringe Club.

2 Lower Albert Rd., Central, 2521-7251.

@4 Taking a walk in Hong Kong Park. 19 Cotton Tree Drive, Central.

!8 Taking one of the oldest rides in Hong Kong—a tram from Sheung Wan to Causeway Bay. !9 Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market.

Kansu and Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei. @0 Dressing up for high tea at The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-3169. @1 Taking the Peak Tram up to the top. @2 Doing some late-night shopping on Sai Yeung Choi Street in Mong Kok.

@5 Snacking on delicious egg tarts at Tai Cheong Bakery.

32 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2554-3475. @6 Seeing our animated favorites come to life at Hong Kong Disneyland.

Lantau Island, 1830-830. @7 Stopping for tea at Fook Ming Tong Tea Shop.

Shop 3316, The Gateway, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-1077. @8 Spending the afternoon at the mall. Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8900. @9 Marveling at the Symphony of Lights in Victoria Harbour. #0 Checking out the old Kowloon-Canton Railway clock tower. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.

Arch Angel Authenticated museum quality Asian antiquities.

53/55 Hollywood Road • Central • Hong Kong • Tel: (852) 2851 6848 • Fax: (852) 2851 6778 • Open Daily: 9:30-6:30 Email: antiques@ArchAngelAntiques.com.hk