WHERE Hong Kong - October 2013 by WHERE Hong Kong

october 2013

the complete guide to go

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Hong Kong in 24 Hours A â&#x20AC;&#x2122;round-the-clock itinerary for the city that never sleeps

Macau for a day Oktoberfest Celebrations

Two major art fairs

Hong Kong

where Hong Kong 10.13 ®

the guide 06 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events

18 art + culture Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening

26 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town

36 Drinks Our favorite places to sip a cocktail

52 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot

54 Maps Kowloon & Hong Kong Island

Also inside

40 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers 46 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info

features

58 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences

10 Hong Kong in 24 hours Only got a day in HK? Spend it wisely

18 Art to Art

on the cover october 2013

the complete guide to go

Browse world-class art at two major art fairs

46 Fun in Macau Hop on the ferry and spend a day in Macau

Hong Kong in 24 Hours A ’round-the-clock itinerary for the city that never sleeps

MAcAu for A dAy oktoberfest celebrAtions two MAjor Art fAirs

Hong Kong

Getting bargain goods at the Temple Street Night Market in Mong Kok is just one of many things you can do in Hong Kong. Check out our ’round the clock itinerary on p.10.

wheretraveler.com The website from the editors of Where Magazine. Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.

Octobe r 2 013 I WHERE hong ko n g 3

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On the web: www.where-hongkong.com HK Magazine Media group acMG | ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION General MANAGER & Publisher Greg Crandall ADVERTISING director Jan Cheng Advertising Executives Ivor Ngo, Maggie Chong Advertising Coordinator Sharon Cheung Marketing MANAGER James Gannaban Marketing & Circulation Executive Charmaine Mirandilla IT SYSTEMS Manager Derek Wong

HK | EDITORIAL EDITOR-in-chief Zach Hines EDITOR Adele Wong CONTRIBUTORS Christopher Cheung, Kelly Cheuk Ying Ho

HK | PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGER Blackie Hui ART DIRECTOR Pierre Pang Senior graphic designer Mike Hung graphic designer Iris Mak

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hot dates Hong Kong By Kelly Cheuk ying ho

October 12-26 Acts of Kindness Portraying the compassion and goodwill of the 60s, â&#x20AC;&#x153;A Bowlful of Kindnessâ&#x20AC;? is a performance that sticks with you. Artistic director Anthony Chan gives us a warm and colorful tale based on the life of rice-cooker importer William Mong, using quirky actors and very basic props. Showtimes vary. Theatre, Hong Kong City Hall, 5 Edinburgh Place, Central. $160-280 from www.urbtix.hk.

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hot dates Through October

October 4-31 Silent Night

House of Horrors

This year, Disneyland is introducing a “Scream-No-More Challenge”, which tests guests’ ability to resist screaming while touring through the “haunted” grounds. Take your time exploring the seven themed areas, or try your hand at the fun, old-school games at the Grizzly Gulch Halloween Fair.

This year, guests can enjoy Ocean Park’s first-ever, round-the-clock Halloween festival. Indulge in some frightful fun, complete with haunted houses and spooky characters. Don’t forget to check out the new line of clothing and souvenirs from the gift shop. 1pm-late. Ocean Park, 180 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen. $320 for adult, $160 for children aged 3-11. Tickets available at the Ocean Park entrance ticketing office, halloween.oceanpark.com.hk/en, and all 7-Eleven stores in Hong Kong.

October 1

Through October

October 11-20

Hold Your Horses

Back to Classics

Triple Threat

Celebrate China's National Day at the Sha Tin Racecourse, where you'll get to enjoy fun cultural performances by renowned Chinese soprano Xu Xiaoying, the Hong Kong Police Band, and more. The highlight will be two exciting feature races.

This month, Citibank Plaza is bringing a line-up of local award-winning classical musicians to the stage. Notable performers include pianists Rachel Cheung and Helen Cha (pictured), and opera singer Sandy Leung.

“The Miracle Worker” tells the tale of how blind, deaf and mute Helen Keller miraculously overcame her handicaps to become an inspiration to all. The story revolves around Keller meeting her life-changing mentor, Anne Sullivan.

PHOTO CREDIT: HKJC

6-11pm, Thu-Sun. Hong Kong Disneyland, Lantau Island (MTR Sunny Bay Station). $299 for a night ticket from www.hongkongdisneyland.com.

Noon-6pm. Sha Tin Racecourse, Penfold Park, Sha Tin. Free admission for tourists who show a valid passport. Visit www.hkjc.com for directions and details.

6-6:45pm. LG/F, Citibank Plaza, 3 Garden Rd., Central. Free.

Oct 11-12, 18-19, 7:30pm; Oct 12-13, 19-20, 2:30pm. Kwai Tsing Theatre, 12 Hing Ning Rd., Kwai Tsing. $120-260 from www.urbtix.hk.

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hot dates Hong Kong October 14

October 25-27

Through October

A Walk in the Park

Tall Tale

Seeing Stars

Attracting more than 1,000 participants every year, Hong Kong Race Walking is a fun and family-friendly event that’s aimed at promoting health awareness. Dress up in colorful outfits and cheer on the race walkers. 7:30am-2:30pm. Chater Road, Central. Free viewing.

“The Dream of the Red Chamber” tells a tale of forbidden love in ancient China. Based on one of China’s four major classical novels and choreographed by artistic director Wang Xinpeng, this ballet is both heart-wrenching and visually stunning. Bring a pack of tissues.

In the mood for a musical? Check out “Starlight Express”, a futuristic tale about love and hope in the face of adversity. Enjoy two hours of speed and daredevil stunts, an electrifying soundtrack, and awesome choreography.

Oct 25, 7:30pm; Oct 26-27, 2:30pm, 7:30pm. Grand Theatre, Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $140-1,500 from www.urbtix.hk.

Showtimes vary. Lyric Theatre, The Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd., Wan Chai. $395-950 from www.hkticketing.com.

October 4

October 11-13

October 31

Cruising Along

Ride the Wave

Eat, Drink, Be Merry

Hop onto a boat and relax under the stars while enjoying snacks, beverages and a movie. Hong Kong Yachting is teaming up with event organizer Hush Up to take you aboard the Aquatic Cinema Cruise, the ultimate outdoor movie experience.

For an exciting weekend, head to the Silvermine Bay Music Festival, the first and only beach music festival in Hong Kong. The best part? It’s free. Enjoy good music and good vibes without breaking your wallet.

The American Express Hong Kong Wine & Dine Festival is a multi-day event that lets foodies enjoy fine wines and delicacies from all over the world at over 280 booths.

7-10pm. Pickup at Aberdeen Public Pier. $650. For bookings, call 2526-0151.

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Oct 11, 7:30-10pm; Oct 12, 3-10pm; Oct 13, 2:30-9:30pm. Silvermine Bay Beach, Mui Wo. Ferries available from Central Pier. Free admission.

Oct 31, 8:30-11:30pm; Nov 1-2, noon-midnight; Nov 3, noon-10:30pm. The New Central Harbourfront. $30 admission at the door, tasting passes available from select vendors; see www.discoverhongkong.com for details.

Mid-Level Escalators

Temple Street

Ladies’ Market

Hong Kong in 24 Hours Only got a day in the city? Spend it wisely. By Christopher Cheung, Kelly Cheuk Ying Ho, Adele Wong

n a bustling city like Hong Kong, there’s no shortage of things to do or places to go all hours of the day. Whether you’re a shopaholic, a fanatic foodie, a culture buff or an outdoor enthusiast, you’ll be sure to find a beach, restaurant or market that will cater to your needs. Follow our ambitious 24-hour itinerary, and we promise you won’t be bored.

8am–9am Start your day with tai chi Energize your mind and body and greet the morning the quintessential Chinese way: with some tai chi. This form of slow-moving exercise is said to have been invented about 1,000 years ago by a Taoist priest named Zhang Sanfeng. Tai chi’s special emphasis on softness and fluidity means that it takes years of practice to achieve that perfect balance between stillness and movement. But for a quick taste of tai chi, join a free class run by the Hong Kong Tourism Board on the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront. The class is instructed in English by William Ng, an experienced tai chi master who performed in front of Tony Blair in 2004. Sculpture Court, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui.

10 W H E R E HONG KONG I Octobe r 2 013

9am-11am

11am–Noon

Enjoy dim sum served in trolleys Feeling refreshed from the tai chi? Hop on the ferry Maxim’s Palace and go across the harbor to Maxim’s Palace, where dim sum in hot bamboo steamers awaits. This massive institution at Central’s City Hall is one of the few that still uses traditional push-cart trolleys to showcase freshly made dim sum dishes. The restaurant is open from 9am on Sundays (11am the rest of the week)—but if you’re an early bird, there is also Metropol Restaurant in neighboring Admiralty district, open everyday from 8am. And yes, trolleys and cooking stations are all available here too. Don’t know what to order? Try some hargow (steamed prawn dumplings) and char siu bao (barbecue pork buns).

Explore a historic neighborhood Walk off all that food with a scenic tour in a historic neighborhood. One of the most tourist-friendly districts on Hong Kong island is SoHo in Central. Here, you’ll be able to find elements both new and old, in an east-meets-west setting. Fans of filmmaker Wong Kar-wai will remember Faye Wong peeking into the window of Tony Leung’s flat in “Chungking Express.” You can do the same by travelling on the Mid-Levels escalators that start on Queen’s Road Central and go all the way up to Conduit Road. For another nostalgic journey, walk west along Hollywood Road—which starts a couple blocks south of Queen’s Road Central and is accessible from the escalators. All along the road are art galleries, curios stores touting Chairman Mao goods, and antique shops selling buddha statues and Chinese vases. Walk far enough west and you might even come across a traditional Chinese coffin shop or two. Need a break? Pop into local cafe Common Ground for a cuppa.

Maxim’s Palace, 2/F, Low Block, City Hall, Central, 2521-1303. Metropol Restaurant, 4/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty, 2865-1988.

Queen’s Road Central and Hollywood Road. Common Ground, 19 Shing Wong St., Sheung Wan, 2818-8318.

Noon-1pm

2pm-3pm

Grab a traditional Chinese lunch Situated in the heart of Central, Duddell’s is a new culinary hotspot that’s perfect for those who appreciate fine art and good food. The large hybrid space hosts curated art exhibits, but also offers Cantonese dishes by chef Siu Hin-chi, who used to be head chef at the Langham Hotels group. The diverse menu features delectable dishes like lobster soup dumpling, baked abalone puffs stuffed with chicken, prawn and garlic spring rolls, and giant baked oysters.

Go sightseeing in Wan Chai Now that you’re nice and relaxed, it’s time for more sightseeing. Head over to Tai Yuen Street in Wan Chai to soak up the vibrant local market atmosphere. Shop for snacks and trinkets at the outdoor stalls before heading over to the indoor Wan Chai wet market on Queen’s Road East. Here, you’ll be able to find fresh fruits and vegetables and haggle for groceries like the locals do. When you’re done shopping, remember to check out the Blue House, a government-preserved 1920s-style tong lau (traditional tenement building) that particularly stands out thanks to its vibrant blue-paint shell.

Duddell’s, 3/F, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-9191.

1pm-2pm

Wan Chai Market, 258 Queen’s Rd. East, Wan Chai, 2575-0192. Blue House, 72 Stone Nullah Lane, Wan Chai, 2835-4376.

Tai chi in TST

3pm-4pm

Get a foot massage After all that walking and eating, it’s time for some pampering. Getting massages and spa treatments are a favorite pastime of Hongkongers—so you should take advantage of the abundance of massage parlors in the city while you’re in town. Make your way to Ten Feet Tall, an urban hideaway that spans 8,000 square feet and offers a variety of services: foot reflexology massages ($260-288 per session), pressure point massages ($360-388 per session), aromatic oil massages ($388-428 per session), lymphatic draining massages ($638-1,700 per session) and more. You can book a private room for up to eight people, or go alone. Manis and pedis are also offered.

Sip some tea at a posh hotel You can’t leave Hong Kong without indulging in an afternoon tea set— a reminder of Hong Kong’s colonial past— at the historic Peninsula hotel. Enjoy some pastries, sandwiches and scones ($328 per head, $578 for two, from 2-6pm) while listening to some live classical music in the high-ceilinged lobby. The hotel has revived its traditional Afternoon Tea dance ($988 per head, 3-6pm) on the first Sunday of every month from now until December— which means you can work it off on the dance floor after a round of treats. Afternoon tea at The Peninsula is quite popular among both locals and tourists, so expect to queue for at least half an hour to an hour. Reservations are not accepted, and there is a dress code enforced.

Ten Feet Tall, 20-21/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2971-1010.

The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2920-2888.

Blue House

Duddell’s

Temple Street Octobe r 2 013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 11

4pm-6pm Go shopping in Kowloon Whatever your taste or budget, there’s a shop or market stall in Hong Kong that will stock what you need. First, visit the outdoor Ladies’ Market in Mong Kok to snag the best deals in cute, youthful floral dresses imported from Korea, or the latest iPhone covers. Always remember to haggle! Later on, check out the Temple Street Night Market, where you’ll find trinkets, watches, electronics, jade pieces and antiques at discounted prices. If you’re lusting after designer goods, look no further than Harbour City shopping mall in Tsim Sha Tsui. This massive shopping complex right by the ferry terminal is home to the biggest brands from all over the world.

Symphony of Lights

Ladies’ Market, Tung Choi Street, Mong Kok. (Mong Kok Station, Exit E2) Temple Street Night Market, Temple Street, Yau Ma Tei. (Yau Ma Tei Station, Exit C) Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8666.

6pm-8pm Go for dinner with a view After all that shopping, reward yourself with a fancy Cantonese meal at Nanhai No. 1, a stylishly modern venue with wicked views to boot. Specializing in seafood dishes prepared with fresh catch from the South China Sea, you can order everything from Indonesian prawns to chili crab to deep-fried crispy squid. Also catch a quick cocktail at the adjoining Eyebar, if you’re in the mood for a tipple. Nanhai No. 1, 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2487-3688.

8pm-9pm Take in the skyline by the harbor Sure, you’ve been here in the morning for tai chi and you’ve seen the daytime skyline. But head back to the Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade at night, and you get a totally different perspective when the city lights up and the harbor shimmers in myriad colors. Catch the “A Symphony of Lights” show at 8pm, when dancing laser beams and colored lights from buildings on both sides of the harbor sweep across the sky. Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade, Tsim Sha Tsui. (Tsim Sha Tsui Station, Exit E) 12 W H E R E HONG KONG I Octobe r 2 013

Nanhai No.1

Ozone

9pm-11pm

11pm-Midnight

Grab a drink at the world’s highest hotel Scale the heights for some sky-high drinking at Ozone Bar at The Ritz-Carlton. Located on the very top of the highest building in Hong Kong, it’s easily the tallest bar in Asia. Step into Ozone’s super-cool, metallic interiors and be prepared for a space-age-style retreat. Or step out onto the terrace for some fresh air and tip-top views of the harbor. Sit down with a glass of cocktail and reward yourself by sampling Ozone’s menu of Asian tapas.

Solve a mystery Looking for something quirky to do? Book an appointment with Freeing HK, a roleplaying “Great Escape”-type game that sees players locked inside a room with no door and provided with clues to help them get out. There are many different scenarios for the players to choose from, allowing them to imitate the detective and hero characters in Hollywood movies. Exciting themes include boarding a pirate ship to retrieve your soul, slipping into the tomb of a pharaoh to uncover mysteries, and breaking into a vampire’s castle.

Ozone, 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2263.

10/F, Richmond Plaza, 496 Jaffe Rd., Causeway Bay, 2838-9190, freeinghk.com.

Repulse Bay

Midnight–1am

3am-5am

Belt out your favorite tunes at a karaoke bar If you’re a night owl, all-in-one entertainment complex The Tonno is right up your alley. Head straight to Red MR on the second floor for an hour of karaoke. Locals often gather in karaoke bars across town to sing the latest hits together while enjoying a pitcher of green tea and whisky, and there’s no reason why you can’t do the same.

Grab a late-night snack at a local greasy spoon Hong Kong staple Tsui Wah is your perfect after-party cure. A modern take on the cha chaan teng (Hong Kong-style greasy spoon), Tsui Wah serves comfort food in all shapes and sizes. Take your pick of instant noodles in satay beef broth, fried rice, pork chop buns and other quintessential snacks. Order a cup of Hong Kong-style milk tea to go along.

The Tonno, 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.

Tsui Wah, G-2F, 15-19 Wellington St., Central, 2525-6338.

1am-3am

5am-6am

Go dancing in Lan Kwai Fong Still got too much energy to call it a night? Head to Volar, a newly revamped nightclub right off party-central Lan Kwai Fong’s main strip, D’Aguilar Street. The 5,000-square foot venue comes alive after hours, and you can either play a round of pool or fight it out on the dance floor in the club’s two themed sections: the Club room and the Electronic room. Also check out the other bars and clubs in the vicinity if you want to soak up the addictive party atmosphere in this part of town.

Go ghost-hunting Feeling brave? Head to High Street, where you’ll find the imposing façade of Sai Ying Pun Community Complex among the hip shops and restos (which are naturally closed at this hour). Lots of local haunted tales relate to this building, due to its colored history. The façade dates back to 1892, when the building served as quarters for nurses. It is rumored that Japanese troops used the facility as an execution hall during World War II. After the war, it was converted into a sanitorium before being abandoned in 1971. Following years of disrepair, the government finally renovated the building in 2001 while preserving the façade. Walk around and see the building for yourself, if you dare!

Sai Ying Pun Community Complex

Volar, B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510.

Sai Ying Pun Community Complex, 2 High St., Sai Ying Pun. 14 W H E R E HONG KONG I Octobe r 2 013

6am-8am Head to the beach If you’ve been diligently following our itinerary, then you’ve had a really long day, and it’s time to wind down. Fortunately, Hong Kong is blessed with many urban beaches that are easily accessible from the city center. Repulse Bay, located on the southern side of Hong Kong Island, is particularly popular. While the beach fills up with tourists later in the day, at dawn it feels like a secluded hideaway, save for a few hardy locals heading down to the sea for their daily swim. After a quick dip in the cool waters, lie back and relax on the sand as the sun takes its first peep over the horizon. Repulse Bay, Beach Road, Repulse Bay. (Bus 6 from Exchange Square in Central)

where

the guide

Blast from the Past The Pawn, a quirky-cool British gastropub in a heritage building on Johnston Road in Wan Chai, is celebrating its fifth anniversary with special menus and cocktails throughout October. Formerly a tenement building block that also housed a pawn shopâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;which is how the establishment got its nameâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the venue has kept many of the original structural elements intact, while updating the interiors with posh and comfy sofas as well as fancy wooden dining tables. Enjoy a $1,888 sharing menu for four, which comes with starters like house-cured salmon, meaty mains in the form of slow-cooked pork belly or roast chicken, and some sweet English treats to end the meal. Alternatively, go for one of five specially created cocktails ($90 each), from the Pawn 5 (gin, star fruit, lemon juice, Grand Marnier, cinnamon syrup) to the Floridian (vodka, grapefruit juice, lime juice, passion fruit juice, apricot brandy, orange bitters). The Pawn, 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444.

Art+culture | The Guide

It’s Showtime Browse some quality art at two large-scale exhibitions in Hong Kong. By Kelly Cheuk Ying Ho

Asia Contemporary Art Show This annual art show attracts galleries from all over the world, including Germany, Russia, Italy, the US, Australia, South Africa and most parts of Asia. Visitors to the show will be able to meet face-to-face with over 60 artists, so be sure to go if you want to chat with them about their styles and inspirations. Oct 4, 1-9:30pm; Oct 5-6, 1-8:30pm. JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty. $150-240 from www.hkticketing.com.

Fine Art Asia At the massive Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 100 galleries from all over the world will exhibit more than 6,500 stunning works of art worth a total of over $2.5 billion. Key artworks include “La Seine à Bougival” by Claude Monet and “Guitar Accroché au Mur” by Pablo Picasso. There will also be ancient Chinese bronzes and rare Himalayan, Egyptian and Islamic art. Also don’t forget to check out iconic jewelry pieces by the world’s greatest designers, including Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany, Bulgari, and more. Oct 4-6, 11am-7pm; Oct 7, 11am-6pm. Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai. Free pre-registration online at www.fineartasia.com.

Fine Art Asia

Asia Contemporary

You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.

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Decade Autoportrait 1969, Oil on canvas, 1977, 183 x 183cm

decade autoportrait

Asian & Western 19th & 20th century masters including Calder, Chu Teh Chun, Chen Zhen, Hartung, Mitchell, Monet, Picasso, Rodin,Venet, Zao Wou-ki

8/F Club Lusitano building, 16 Ice House street, Central, Hong Kong t.+852 2167 8896 e. hongkong@desarthe.com www.desarthe.com

Art+culture | The Guide

On a Slow Boat Discover the wonders of South and Southeast Asia through 13 different artists. By Christopher Cheung

Truong Tan

Are you a culture buff? Definitely check out "No Country: Contemporary Art for South and Southeast Asia", an exhibition that tries to transcend political borders by displaying the works of 13 artists from 11 regional countries. The exhibition is a collaboration between The Asia Society, UBS bank and the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum and Foundation, and takes its title from the first line of W.B. Yeats’s “Sailing to Byzantium”, a poem that explores the relationships between art, history and immortality.

Antiques

Altfield Gallery

ALTFIELD GALLERY — Altfield Gallery deals in Southeast Asian sculpture and decorative arts, antique maps and topographical prints relating to Asia, as well as Chinese, Tibetan and Caucasian carpets. Altfield also produces a range of reproduction furniture and accessories in the Chinoiserie style. Shipping available. Shop 248-9, 2/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-6370, www.altfield.com.hk. 20 W H E R E HONG KONG I October 2 0 13

Burmese artist Aung Myint’s “White Stupa Doesn’t Need Gold” seems to echo Yeats’s line, “Monuments of its own magnificence,” and leads the viewer to contemplations of the meaning of glamor in both art and religion. Vietnamese artist Truong Tan’s “What Do We Want” is another eye-catching work to look for. Through this exhibition, one will hopefully come to appreciate how artists from vastly different backgrounds who employ diverse forms and styles are, at the deepest level, preoccupied with common concerns. Through Feb 16, 2014, Asia Society Hong Kong Center, 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511.

ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUES — The three-story shop houses large collections of Qing dynasty porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic stone and bronze sculptures and buddhas, and terracotta sculptures from China and SouthEastern Asia are found in the viewing galleries, plus there are over 200 paintings in the extensive ancestral scroll collection. G/F, 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848. ARCH ANGEL GALERIE “V” — This large gallery, just across from Arch Angel Antiques, is a must for collectors and connoisseurs interested in early stone sculpture and 16th to 18th-century Chinese furniture. These fine early examples are shown in original condition and exquisitely reconditioned by an expert furniture specialist. G/F, 70 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6828. CHINA ART — This leading restorer and dealer in fine Asian antique furniture and artifacts holds frequent exhibitions and

Aung Myint

has published two books, “Antiques in the Raw” and “Regional Furniture.” Go to the website to see what’s in stock. Unit 26-27, 15/F, Tower A, Southmark, 11 Yip Hing St., Aberdeen, 2542-0982, www.chinaart.com.hk. DRAGON CULTURE — Specializes in dinosaur egg fossils, Han Dynasty terracotta, Tang sculptures and Ming porcelain figures. 231 Hollywood Rd.,Sheung Wan, 2545-8098, www.dragonculture.com.hk. JOYCE GALLERY — Specializing in ancient sculptures and archaic bronzes from across China, Joyce displays a collection of antiquities dating to the Shang dynasty, including ancient bronzes, stone carvings, gold and silver ware, jade, pottery and Buddhist works. It guarantees its descriptions of the period and history of its items and offers a full refund if the purchased item does not match the description. Shop 1, 123 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-1869, www.joycegallery.com.

Art+culture | The Guide AP Contemporary— AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2148, www.apcontemporary.com. Lam & Co Antiquities

LAM & CO ANTIQUITIES — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silver ware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offers repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services. 2/F, 151 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877, www.lamantiquities.com. OI LING ANTIQUES — Oi Ling's Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items dating as far back as the Neolithic era. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2815-9422, www.oilingantiques.com. WATTIS FINE ART — Specializes in antique maps of Asia, and historical photographs and prints of China, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia. 2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302, www.wattis.com.hk.

Galleries 10 CHANCERY LANE GALLERY — Focusing on established and emerging international artists, 10 Chancery Lane consists of three large gallery spaces. It holds exhibitions of sculptures, paintings, photographs, installations and videos, as well as performances by renowned artists. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, SoHo, 2810-0065, www.10chancerylanegallery.com. AGNèS B. LIBRAIRIE GALERIE — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnès b. has a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world. G/F, 118 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2869-5505, www.agnesb.com. ALISAN FINE ARTS — This well-established gallery has organized more than 100 exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world. Run by respected art-world figure Alice King, who has worked with the Guggenheim Museum, it also mounts exhibitions for overseas venues. Room 2305, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091, www.alisan.com.hk. ARCH ANGEL ART GALLERY — One of Hong Kong’s biggest galleries features an outstanding collection of contemporary Vietnamese oil paintings, acquired directly from the artists. The owners have carefully selected and bought each painting during frequent trips to Vietnam so, contrary to common practice, none of the works are on consignment. Be sure to check out their private stock on nearby Peel Street, featuring a fine collection of 20th-century contemporary paintings from some of Asia’s leading artists. 38 Peel St., Central, 2851-6882. 22 W H E R E HONG KONG I October 2 0 13

ART BEATUS — Established in the early 1990s, Art Beatus features mainly original paintings and art by contemporary Chinese artists. Some of its collection has a retro slant, and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoon as vehicles for expression. Has branches in Vancouver and on Queen’s Road Central. G/F, 50 Peel St., Central, 2522-1138, www.artbeatus.com. ASIA FINE ART — Dedicated to promoting young Asian artists at affordable prices, this gallery has regular exhibitions of work from China, Vietnam and Indonesia and Myanmar for sale on site and online. 14 Sik On St., Wan Chai (entrance at 99 Queen’s Rd. East), 2522-0405, www.asia-fineart.com. ASIA SOCIETY HONG KONG — Asia Society Hong Kong's big, brand-spankin’-new headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences—97 percent of which are open to the public—the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. Closed Mondays. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511, www.asiasociety.org/hong-kong. BEN BROWN FINE ARTS — After 10 years at Sotheby’s and two more at a private gallery, Ben Brown and his wife sought to create a space that housed pieces reflective of their tastes—primarily on European modern and contemporary artworks. 301 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2522-9600, www.benbrownfinearts.com. THE CAT STREET GALLERY — Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the world. 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006, www.thecatstreetgallery.com. CONNOISSEUR ART GALLERY — Specializing in contemporary Chinese fine art since 1989, Connoisseur features such acclaimed artists as Paris-based Jia Juan-li, renowned Guangzhou artist Zhang Da-zhong and still life artist Liu Ying-zhao. Shop G3, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2868-5358, www.connoisseur-art.com. CONNOISSEUR CONTEMPORARY — This contemporary gallery seeks to identify new and emerging talents as well as those deserving of more space and recognition. Expect to find a wide range of genres and styles from around the world. Shop G4, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3521-0300, www.connoisseurcontemporary.com

CONTEMPORARY BY ANGELA LI — Perhaps best known for introducing Chinese artists Chen Jiagang and Liao Yibai to the art world, CBAL boasts a lovely space and a carefully curated exhibition program. G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3571-8200, www.cbal.com.hk.

De Sarthe Gallery

DE SARTHE GALLERY — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the U.S. and Europe, de Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, Club Lusitano, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896, desarthe.com. ESPACE LOUIS VUITTON — LV has been invading gallery spaces for the past half decade, stirring unrest in the hearts of hard-line art critics but appreciation in the eyes of those beholders who’re able to look past reservations about brand-name commercialism. Espace Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton Mansion, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 8100-1182. GAGOSIAN GALLERY — With 12 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. Theyopened their doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an all-new exhibition by Damien Hirst—Gagosian only exhibits the crème-de-lacrème of the art world. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555, www.gagosian.com. GALERIE DU MONDE — Galerie du Monde hosts exhibitions by Chinese artists including Li Shuang, Le Longyao, Yu Xiaohui, Hon Chifun and Pan Xun. Its conservation studio provides a complete restoration service for works of art on paper and canvas. Shop 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Center, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529, www.galeriedumonde.com. GROTTO FINE ART — Curated by Henry Au-yeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery represents local artists, with an interest in new and avant-garde art forms. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixedmedia and installation pieces. 2/F, 31C-D Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270, www.grottofineart.com. HANART TZ GALLERY — A specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone. 401 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019, www.hanart.com.

Art+culture

Opera Gallery

Lehmann Maupin Gallery — With the original branch in New York and with its reputation of supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery opened its doors here on March 14. Architect Rem Koolhas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Room 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central.2530-0025, hongkong@lehmanmaupin.com. OPERA GALLERY — Opera Gallery features works by world-famous international artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Gerard Rancinan and Lita Cabellut, among others. W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-1208, www.operagallery.com. Puerta Roja — Puerta Roja was established to promote Latin American art and artists to the Hong Kong audience. Drawings, etchings, glasswork and sculptures are all featured here. Shop A, G/F, Wai Yue Building, 15-17 New St., Sheung Wan, 9729-1773. PICTURE THIS — The city’s largest affordable art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children’s rooms, and sporting prints. Suite 1308, 13/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820, www.picturethiscollection.com. PLUM BLOSSOMS GALLERY — Recognized for its exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection of museum-quality ancient textiles, Plum Blossoms is an established platform for the promotion of both ancient and modern arts. 14/F, Cheung Tak Building, 30 Heung Yip Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, www.plumblossoms.com. Red Square Gallery — Red Square Gallery is a window into Contemporary Russian Art. Expanding into four branches, the gallery is dedicated to bringing creative and dynamic artwork to Hong Kong. Shop 2, G/F, 1A Wong Nai Chung Rd., Happy Valley. 2838-0040, www.redsquare-gallery.com. Main branch in Stanley.

NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT! Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418

www.outback.com.hk

Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823

Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan

Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai

Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay

Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728

Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918

Octobe r 2 013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 23

Art+culture

SHIN HWA GALLERY — Focusing on Asian contemporary art, Shin Hwa features both upcoming and established artists. It is particularly committed to innovative Chinese artists. Room 4A, Yue On Commercial Building, 385 Lockhart Rd., Wan Chai, 2803-7960, www.shinhwagallery.com.

White Cube

WHITE CUBE — One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first non-UK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials—for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. G-1/F, 50 Connaught Rd. Central, 2592-2000, www.whitecube.com. ZEE STONE GALLERY — Zee Stone, established in 1991, exhibits a wide range of contemporary artists from mainland China, using both ink and color on paper and oil on canvas. The gallery’s exhibitions reflect the rich diversity of contemporary Chinese art, including abstract landscapes, realistic portraits, paintings on rice paper by traditionally trained Chinese masters and new work by a younger generation in acrylic and mixed media. G/F, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2810-5895, www.zeestone.com.

Museums FLAGSTAFF HOUSE MUSEUM OF TEAWARE — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-inchief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Closed Tue. 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Hong Kong Park, Central, 2869-0690, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG FILM ARCHIVE — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Tuesdays. 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139.

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Art+culture

HONG KONG HERITAGE MUSEUM — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. It features permanent exhibitions on the New Territories, Cantonese opera and a Children’s Discovery Gallery. Closed Tues. 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188, www.hk.heritage.museum. HONG KONG MARITIME MUSEUM — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong's growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier No. 8, 3713-2500, www.hkmaritimemuseum.org. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF ART — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works, including major traveling exhibitions from world-class museums. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0116, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF HISTORY — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. It’s the reconstruction of a street that really grabs your attention. Closed Tue. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042, www.hk.history.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF MEDICAL SCIENCES — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both Western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Along with a display of herbs and remedies, there is antique apothecary equipment. Closed Mon. 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels, 2549-5123, www.hkmms.org.hk. LAW UK FOLK MUSEUM — Law Uk, which means “Law’s House” after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. It is the sole remaining architectural example of its kind in Chai Wan. Free admission. Closed Thu. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006, www.hk.history.museum. LEI CHENG UK HAN TOMB MUSEUM — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, this is one of the city’s most fascinating monuments. Discovered in 1955, it now has an adjacent gallery that features 58 items excavated during the construction of the Lei Cheng Uk Resettlement Area. Closed Thu. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863, www.hk.history.museum.

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dining | The Guide

Mee, Please Restaurants offering Southeast Asian dishes are all the rage in Hong Kong.

Tamarind

Fatty Crab

When dining trends come to Hong Kong, they come in tsunami-style tidal waves—and if you look at the hottest recent openings, it won’t take you long to realize that satay skewers, laksa and mango sticky rice are restaurateurs’ new favorite themes. Check out the latest Southeast restaurants to make a splash on the dining scene.

Chom Chom At newly opened Chom Chom, talented chef Peter Cuong Franklin recreates the Vietnamese Bia Hoi culture—the practice of drinking draft beer on street corners while eating street food—with a modern twist. The menu is focused on a select few categories (don’t expect the all-too-common beef pho) but the flavors are exciting, creative and will leave you craving for more. Must-tries include the Vietnamese Fried Chicken and the sole fillet with turmeric and dill. G/F, Block A, 58-60 Peel St., Central, 2810-0850.

Syed Bukhara Syed Bukhara, a popular fast-food chain from Malaysia, recently opened its first branch in Hong Kong at Chungking Mansions. Bright, airy and neat, the restaurant boasts many popular comfort food favorites at sizable portions and better than reasonable prices. Try the nasi lemak with egg and the mutton Bukhara biryani special. Shop 15-16, G/F, Chungking Mansion, 36-44 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 5635-2723.

Cafe Malacca Expect authentic Southeast Asian streetstyle cuisine from Café Malacca, run by experienced Shangri-La chef Sunny Tse. Popular favorites include chicken and beef satay skewers, gado gado (a traditional vegetable salad with peanut sauce) and beef rendang. 2/F, Traders Hotel, 508 Queen’s Rd. West, Shek Tong Tsui, 2213-6613.

Fatty Crab A branch of the hugely successful Fatty Crab Restaurant in New York, Fatty Crab Hong Kong serves a delectable mix of Southeast Asian flavors—with a twist. Signature dishes include the Fatty Duck, chili crab, and pickled watermelon with crispy pork. More traditional Southeast Asian dishes like Thai curry and Malaysian laksa are also on the menu. The dark and funky décor is another highlight of the Fatty Crab experience. 11 Old Bailey St., Central, 2521-2033.

Chachawan Brought to Hollywood Road by restaurateur Yenn Wong, Chachawan is a creative addition to Hong Kong’s saturated market. Seasoned Thai chef Adam Cliff brings to the table authentic Isaan (Northeastern Thai) cuisine, which boasts a balanced yet punchy mix of flavors. Charcoal-grilled dishes are popular favorites. Try the nahm dok nuer, a spicy grilled Wagyu beef salad, and the pla phao glua, a crusted and stuffed whole sea bass. 206 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2549-0020.

26 W H E R E HONG KONG I Octobe r 2 013

Chom Chom

Noodle Lah There is no better place to embrace the diverse and pervasive Asian noodle culture than at Noodle Lah, which offers a variety of Southeast Asian noodle dishes. Serving everything from Singaporean laksa to Japanese miso ramen, as well as some nonnoodle staples like pineapple fried rice and crispy spring rolls, Noodle Lah also allows customers to mix and match noodles of their choice. Shop A6-2, UG/F, Far East Finance Centre, 16 Harcourt Rd., Admiralty, 2529-0622.

Tamarind Tamarind serves mainly Thai, Indian and Vietnamese specialties, complete with spacious interior and harbor view. The plentiful menu tries to impress both spiceshy foodies and chili lovers. Chefs with different areas of expertise head different parts of the kitchen, ensuring a truly authentic dining experience. Those looking for Southeast Asian cuisine should try the Hanoi-style garoupa or Thai pomelo salad with grilled prawns, while those hankering for Indian should try the tandoori salmon. 2/F, Sun Hung Kai Centre, 30 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2827-7777.

G111, HARBOUR CITY, CANTON ROAD WWW.MSBSCAKERY.HK

dining | The Guide

Top Tables Two new Mediterranean restaurants to watch for. By Adele Wong

Mano

Souvla

Hankering for Hummus

Going Greek

Mano offers comfort food-style lunch and dinner options such as grilled halloumi, fresh breads, hummus, and steaks with Parmesan mashed potatoes. The resto is a classy-casual all-day cafe. There is serious coffee to be had as well, since Mano will be working in collaboration with UK-based java consultants DunneFrankowski to ensure meticulously prepped brews.

Souvla, a Greek restaurant by Concept Creations, is a 150-seater serving everything from classic Greek salads to slow-cooked lamb ribs. The place is headed by chef Michael Van Warmelo, who earned his chops with Aussie chef Greg Malouf of Melbourne’s Momo for years before becoming a guru of Mediterranean goods himself.

G/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2399-0737.

1/F, Ho Lee Building, 40 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2522-1823.

Mano

Admiralty

Causeway Bay

DAN RYAN’S — American. $$$ Dan Ryan’s prides itself on Chicago-style chow. Shop 112, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2845-4600.

Hooray — Italian. $$. Al fresco drinks and dining in a casual setting complete with a magnificent harbor view. Shop P502, 5/F, World Trade Center, 280 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2895 0885.

METROPOL — Dim sum. $ Beef balls, steamed shrimp dumplings, pork-and-shrimp dumplings, stuffed rice rolls and other Hong Kong specialties are wheeled around in traditional trolleys for an authentic dim sum experience. 3/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty, 2865-1988. NICHOLINI’S — Italian. $$$$ Hands down the best Sunday brunch around. It gets kudos from honest-to-goodness Italians, and that’s good enough for us. 8/F, Conrad International Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2521-3838. PETRUS — French. $$$$ This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The décor is a bit ostentatious, but the opulence suits the magnificent view. 56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2820-8590.

28 W H E R E HONG KONG I Octobe r 2 013

IPPUDO — Ramen. $ Japan’s famous chain serves ramen in bowls so enormous they should be called cauldrons, with a meaty, savory broth, tender pork pieces, springy noodles and tangy spring onions topped with fungus and bean sprouts. 2/F, 8 Russell St., 2892-2387. MANGO TREE — Thai. $$-$$$ Somehow, in the middle of bustling Causeway Bay, in a high-rise chock-full of other restaurants and bars, Mango Tree manages to be an oasis of dim lighting, carefully placed flowers and good Thai food. 5/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-0828. Sorabol — Korean. $$ The smell wafting from the open barbecues in the middle of each table will get your appetite going— which is a good thing, since you’ll want to try everything. 18/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival St., 2881-6823.

Tott’s — Modern Asian/Western. $$$-$$$$ Sophisticated décor, harbor-view seats, and perfectly crafted entrees are the hallmark here. The attentive service also deserves special mention. 34/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., 2837-6786.

Central & Lan Kwai Fong AMBER — Modern French. $$$$ Modern, inventive French cuisine meets attentiongrabbing decor. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066. Brickhouse — Mexican. $$. Imagine street-side Mexican combined with hipster-chic décor and upbeat music. Phone reservations not allowed and queues form quickly at peak hours so early arrival recommended. G/F, 20A D’Aguilar St. Boqueria — Spanish. $$$ Feast on tasty tapas and bomba rice paellas at this chain from New York. 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2321-8681.

dining | The Guide CAPRICE — French. $$$$ Three Michelin Stars. Splurge on haute cuisine at this French restaurant staffed by chefs formerly of Le Cinq in Paris. The gorgeous interior includes floorto-ceiling windows. 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8860.

The Peak THE PEAK LOOKOUT — International. $$$ Offering an alfresco terrace with a view, this restaurant features an open, bright and airy environment—more like a mountain lodge than a country club—and excellent fare. 121 Peak Rd., 2849-1000.

Lung King Heen

Duddell’s

Duddell’s — Cantonese. $$$. Serves Chinese fusion by former T’ang Court Chef Siu Hin-chi. The art pieces on display are another highlight. Levels 3 & 4, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., 2525-9191.

LUNG KING HEEN — Cantonese. $$$-$$$$ Three Michelin Stars. The name means “view of the dragon” and the floor-to-ceiling windows make the case. Stylish décor, flawless service and traditional as well as innovative dishes only add to the appeal. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8880.

ISLAND TANG — Cantonese. $$$$ Shanghai Tang founder David Tang’s art-deco dining space is a welcome bright spot amid Central’s modern office towers, with top local cuisine to match. Shop 222, 2/F, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-8798.

Mayta

Mayta — Peruvian. $$$ Indulge in colorful and multi-textured dishes like seafood ceviche at one of LKF’s most popular new restos. 3/F, Grand Progress Building, 15 Lan Kwai Fong, 2790-0928.

LIN HEUNG Lau— Cantonese. $$ The setup has changed little in more than 50 years and it still remains a popular hangout for those craving a bit of old Hong Kong nostalgia and really, really good food. Most people come here for daytime dim sum, but dinner’s great too. 160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556. 30 W H E R E HONG KONG I Octobe r 2 013

JASHAN — Indian. $$ Immediately impressive, with dim lighting, vermilion walls and colonial furnishings, Jashan offers an extensive menu, delicious food and hotel-level service. 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., 3105-5300. POSTO PUBBLICO — American Italian. $$$ Hip Greenwich Village types come to get their fill of such dishes as veal meatballs and sandwiches of homemade mozzarella, eggplant and lashings of balsamic vinegar. 28 Elgin St., 2577-7160.

Yardbird

Sevva

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON — French. $$$$ The Frenchman named “Chef of the Century” by Gault Millau designs authentic dishes with exquisite finesse and precision, which are then turned out by highly trained chefs in the open kitchen. Shop 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 2166-9000.

THE VERANDAH — Continental/International. $$$ Book brunch in time to get a seat at this popular spot. On other days, the a la carte menu never disappoints. Closed Mon. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2822.

pierre — French. $$$$ Masterminded by threeMichelin-star chef Pierre Gagnaire, this is a bastion of fine French dining. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4001.

ISOLA BAR & GRILL — Italian. $$$$ The glam factor is off the scale, with stunning harbor views and high ceilings, not to mention handmade pastas, pizzas, risottos and more. Shop 3071-75 & 4011, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., 2383-8765.

L’Atelier De Joel Robuchon

SPICES — Pan-Asian. $$$ Below a glassy high-rise, this restaurant is devoted to showcasing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East.” It also offers a fantastic view of the South China Sea and the sandy shores below. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2821.

SoHo

Fatty Crab — Southeast Asian. $$$. A branch of the popular Fatty Crab Restaurant in New York. Expect a delectable mix of South-East Asian flavors. 11-13 Old Bailey St., 2521-2033. INAGIKU — Japanese. $$$ The Hong Kong branch of one of Japan’s oldest and best-known restaurants, it lives up to the buzz: authentic, delicious and quiveringly fresh. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 2805-0600.

Repulse Bay

SEVVA — Contemporary. $$$$ The brainchild of local socialite Bonnie Gokson, this 22,000-square-foot penthouse restaurant comes with a buzzing wraparound terrace. The elegant eatery serves dishes drawn from Cantonese, Shanghainese, Indian and British culinary concepts. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., 2537-1388. YELLOW DOOR KITCHEN — Sichuan. $$ Hong Kong’s first private kitchen, this favorite has been serving up fiery Sichuan cuisine since the early 1990s. 6/F, 37 Cochrane St., 2858-6555. ZUMA — Japanese. $$$$ This is one goodlooking restaurant, split over two floors and linked by a sumptuous staircase. It’s the local branch of London’s famed eatery, offering a sophisticated twist on the traditional izakaya. 5-6/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3657-6388.

YARDBIRD — Yakitori. $$$ This is a no-frills yet achingly modern two-story yakitori joint in a trendy corner of the district. The skewers are mostly chicken-based, and taken from every part of the chicken’s body from the heart to the skin. Don’t forget to sample the house sake. 33-35 Bridges St., 2547-9273.

Tsim Sha Tsui

Angelini

ANGELINI — Italian. $$$-$$$$ With Italian native Marco Medaglia at the helm, Angelini serves up unpretentious food, with an emphasis on ingredients air-freighted from Italy three times a week. Also has a great harbor view. Mezzanine, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., 2733-8750.

dining

FELIX — Fusion. $$$$ Still one of the swankiest restaurants in town, with Philippe Starck décor, modern food and famous bathrooms. It’s glam, contemporary and kid-free. 28/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, 2696-6778. FOOK LAM MOON — Cantonese. $$$$ Devotees swear this place serves the best Cantonese cuisine in the world. It’s been the place to go for southern Chinese delicacies for more than five decades. 55 Kimberley Rd., 2366-0286. HUTONG — Northern Chinese. $$$$ Dark wood furnishings and a fabulous harbor view make for a modern-day Chinese dining hall. The food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., 3428-8342. MORTON’S OF CHICAGO — Steak. $$$$ With huge slabs of prime, aged beef accompanied by what looks like the winning entries in a hard-fought vegetable show, Morton’s is one of the best steak restaurants in Hong Kong. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., 2732-2343.

Nobu

NOBU — Japanese. $$$$ Mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution, this famous restaurant deserves the hype. Sushi is a must, as is the amazing black cod. 2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323.

Spoon

SPOON — French. $$$$ Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows, a fabulous harbor view and a pick-and-mix menu that gives you room to be creative. Lobby, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2256. T’ANG COURT — Cantonese. $$$$ This little gem serves some of the city’s finest Cantonese cuisine. 1/F, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., 2132-7898.

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dining

Whisk — Modern European. $$$ Whisk is known for its contemporary European dishes and extensive wine list that is relatively more affordable than other fine diners. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., 2315-5999. YE SHANGHAI — Shanghainese. $$$ With upscale cuisine served in shareable portions, this is the place for Shanghainese dishes like camphor-smoked duck with pancakes. Also known for its interior full of fabulous chinoiserie. 6/F, The Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, 3 Canton Rd., 2376-3322.

Wan Chai

Bo Innovation

BO INNOVATION — Asian. $$$-$$$$ Experimental cuisine pairing local ingredients with delicacies imported from across the world. Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., 2850-8371.

Catalunya

Catalunya — Spanish. $$$$ This 7,500 square feet of restaurant and bar space offers Catalan-style dishes such as roasted suckling pig and lobster rice. G/F, Guardian House, Morrison Hill, 32 Oi Kwan Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-7900. MADAM SIXTY EIGHT — European. $$$ At this posh eclectic eatery, an open kitchen faces the diners, with chefs readying exquisitely prepared dishes scurrying around. 1/F, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-2558. THE PAWN — British. $$$ Serving fabulous food in a faithful restoration of an 1888 landmark building, The Pawn houses a bar and a restaurant with a roof and a breezy balcony overlooking Johnston Road. The menu has modern British fare with a luxurious twist. 62 Johnston Rd., 2866-3444. WOOLOOMOOLOO — Australian/New Zealand. $$$ This steakhouse is several places at once: a laid-back wine bar and a casual drinks terrace on the rooftop, and a fine-dining steakhouse below. 31F-Roor, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960. 32 W H E R E HONG KONG I Octobe r 2 013

Taste of the city special advertising section

Spice features the

Enjoy a COMPLIMENTARY DESSERT with this ad

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Octobe r 2 013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 33

BARS & CLUBS

To get listed on this page, email advertising@asia-city.com.hk or call 2850-5678.

Stop a

Stop b

Bacar Bacar serves unpretentious food and wine at very competitive prices. It is popular with HK regulars who like to people-watch while standing next to the escalators with wine in hand.

G/F, 2 Shelley St., SoHo, 2521-8322

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Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;etage With the feel of a true gentlemenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s club, this is a place for Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a taditionally made cocktail.

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33-35 Staunton St., Central 2522 5300

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Iberico & Co. This space was designed by award-winning designer Kinney Chan, and offers something completely unique to SoHo customers: an airy, spacious and grand interior with an unpretentious gastro bar feel. G/F, 18 Shelley St., SoHo, 2752-8811

34 W H E R E HONG KONG I Octobe r 2 013

Enoteca on Elgin Enoteca on Elgin opened its doors in 2005 and remains busy and buzzing almost six years on. This narrow 60-seat Mediterranean tapas and wine bar is so popular with locals and tourists that reservations are a must. G/F, 47 Elgin St., SoHo, 2525-9944

BARS & CLUBS Stop C

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Cicada Cicada is the first wine bar and restaurant in Hong Kong to dedicate itself entirely to “Asian Tapas.” Its intention is for guests to sample a wide array of dishes and flavors from all over the region in a contemporary, Asia-inspired city wine bar. G/F, 4 Shelley St., SoHo, 2521-8188

Angel’s Share

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suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central 2805-8388

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Specifically designed for whisky-lovers.

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The Blck Brd

Le Boudoir

This Chilled- out spot has an official

This Francophone hangout is all sultry

“no loud music” policy, making it the

drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery.

perfect place for a few low-key drinks.

The cocktails are stellar too.

The outdoor terrace is a serene place

B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central 2530-3807

to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central 2545-8555

Octobe r 2 013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 35

Drinks | The Guide Bars & Clubs

Bottoms Up Celebrate Oktoberfest in Hong Kong and Macau. By Kelly Cheuk Ying Ho

Angel’s Share

121BC — This import from Sydney, Australia offers biodynamic wines from Italian producers. 42-44 Peel St., Central, 2395-0200.

MGM Macau

MGM Macau Oktoberfest

Berliner

Get ready for a weeks-long celebration of all things fizzy as hotels and restaurants in Hong Kong and neighboring Macau launch their own Oktoberfest festivities. Originally from Germany, this longtime Bavarian tradition is all about beer, fun and food. Here are two of the biggest events in town.

Marco Polo German Bierfest Widely regarded as one of the best venues in Hong Kong to celebrate Oktoberfest, the hotel will be hosting daily outdoor parties from late October to November. German band The Notenhoblers will be on hand to perform traditional tunes and get the audience rowdy with interactive games, while various Bavarian dishes will be sold at food stations throughout the venue. Oct 25-Nov 16; Sun-Thu 6-11pm, Fri-Sat 6-11:30pm. Viewing Platform, 6/F, Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $100-240 from www.hkticketing.com.

MGM Macau captures the essence of Bavaria with authentic beer, appetizing German food and some jolly live music. MGM Macau has received more than 35,000 guests, poured 30,552 liters of beer and served 1 million sausages since they organized the first festival back in 2009—so trust that they’re experienced veterans by now. Unleash your inner party animal with some traditional music, folk dancing, sing-alongs and, of course, the very best German beer. Oct 17-26, 6pm-midnight. Vista II, MGM Macau, Avenida Dr. Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau. MOP$100-300 from MGM Macau, contact (+853) 8802-3888 to reserve tickets.

Hot Deal From now until the end of October, Berliner restaurant will be offering a specially designed menu that highlights traditional festive German fare and bottomless barrels of beer. Beer lovers can order from a variety of traditional German varieties, from the strong and fruity Erdinger Weissbier to the bitter and refreshing Holsten Pilsener. The Erdinger Oktoberfest Bier is another highlight, brewed specifically for the festival. Treat yourself to Bavarian favorites like bierocks (meat pastries) and smoked salmon. Berliner, 4/F, W Square, 314-324 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2891-8689.

ANGEL’S SHARE — This unique drinking loft is specifically designed for whisky lovers. Sourced from Scotland to Japan, there’s enough aged golden liquid here to suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-8388. AQUA spirit — For cocktails with a killer vista, you can do no better than this swanky high-rise venue with an eagle’s eye view of the harbor. 29/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. Azure — Stunning view, minimalist blue décor and great cocktails. 29/F, LKF Hotel, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 3518-9330. Beijing Club — This impressive megaclub recently celebrated its fourth anniversary and is the biggest in town. Expect wet-look vinyl walls, gold-plated bathrooms and a youthful crowd. 2-3/F & 5/F, Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington St., Central, 2526-8298. Blckbrd — This chilled-out spot has an official “no loud music” policy, making it the perfect place for a few low-key drinks. Located on the sixth floor, the outdoor terrace is a serene place to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2545-8555. BLUE BAR — The upscale Blue Bar is a big hit with the cocktail set. Yes, the martinis are worth getting dressed up for. Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8830. Café Gray Deluxe — Beside the seductively stretched bar are cozy booths for intimate lounging, and its 49th-floor perch guarantees breathtaking harbor views. Cocktail lovers should try the Hong Kong Highball. 49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. Central Wine Club — This exclusive spot on Wyndham Street was designed with oenophiles in mind. Luxe, modern Baroque surrounds keep pace with the slow jazz and contemporary tunes. 3/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2147-3448. CLUB@28 — This stylish bar has killer views, deadly cocktails and its very own outdoor oasis called The Pavilion. It’s members only, but you can join on arrival and it’s free. 28/F, Crowne Plaza Hotel, 8 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 3980-3300.

For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at bars, restaurants and coffee shops).

36 W H E R E HONG KONG I Octobe r 2 013

Hong Kong

apr il 2013

the complet e guide to

Where to go? Where Hong Kong’s eBook version is your monthly digital tour guide to Hong Kong, perfect for city-dwellers and friends and visitors alike. From the coolest new restaurants to the can’t-miss sightseeing spots, taking an issue of Where Hong Kong on the go is like putting a local Hongkonger in your back pocket. Subscribe to our e-book now at http://hk-magazine.com/user/register

Raise a Glass The best new bars in

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Drinks | The Guide DRAGON BAR — The kitschy-chic bar sits betwixt the equally droll west and east dining rooms, and looks like an exotic dive in 70s London Chinatown. Hullet House, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3988-0101.

Martini BAR — This stylish hotel bar has nightly entertainment, a range of cocktails beyond just martinis and is one of the few cigar lounges in town. The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2733-2995.

Staunton’s — Popularly considered the best “people-watching spot” in Hong Kong, Staunton’s has the right equation for a chill evening drink. It also has an eclectic menu. 10-12 Staunton St., Central, 2973-6611.

DRAGON-I — Watch the bold and the beautiful work the celeb-studded room. It’s usually packed with models, especially on Wednesday nights. UG/F, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 3110-1222.

Lion Rock — Lion Rock is the place to unwind and relax while having one (or more) of 193 signature cocktails. Enjoy the awesome view and weekly wine and whisky tastings. 3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel,193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Mong Kok, 2622-6167.

SUGAR — Sink into one of the sofas at this swanky rooftop bar and enjoy the amazing views of the harbor. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Tai Koo, 3968-3738.

EXECUTIVE BAR — So quiet that the sound of a ninja’s sword slicing through silk would be cause for shushing. Well, not really, but it is quiet, Japanese and well-stocked with Scotch— the drink of the introspective man. 27/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 2893-2080. GRAPPA’S CELLAR — This bustling after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians. B/F, Jardine House, Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322.

Jaa Bar

MCSORLEY’S ALE HOUSE — Woody, Irish and vaguely Victorian, McSorley’s is the biggest pub in SoHo. 55 Elgin St., Central, 2522-2646. MO BAR — The bar at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental is a sleek, upscale addition to the nightlife scene. The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0077. Ozone — Located 118 floors above the ground, this watering hole boasts a superlative title: the highest bar in Hong Kong. This nightspot is a must-see, especially due to its drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2270. Quinary — Grab molecular cocktails in a chilledout lounge off Hollywood Road. Be impressed by local mixologist Antonio Lai’s creative drinks list. G/F, 56-58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-3223.

Jaa Bar — Located in a small alleyway off of Peel Street, Jaa Bar combines comfort and charm for an exclusive experience. The centerpiece of the ornate enclave is a custom-made wooden bar pieced together from classical furniture pieces. 1 Pak Tsz Lane, Central, 2815-8887. KEE CLUB — A good concierge should be able to get you into this exclusive members-only club, where you can sip a cocktail and check out the Picassos, antiques and colonial-style service. 6/F, 32 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9000. L’etage — With the feel of a true gentlemen’s club, this is a place for refined Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a traditionally made cocktail in one hand and a cigar in another. It’s worth coming back just to watch head bartender Katsuhisa Hirakawa hand-carve spheres of ice for whisky. 22/F, 525 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2522-5300. LE BOUDOIR — This Francophone hangout is all sultry drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery. The cocktails are stellar, too. B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central, 2530-3870. LILY — Get buzzed in and out of Lily’s fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. Aesthetes will be delighted that so much attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166. M BAR — Set against the heights of Hong Kong’s skyline, the Mandarin Oriental’s M Bar makes for a ravishingly chic hangout. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4002.

38 W H E R E HONG KONG I Octobe r 2 013

The Lawn

The Lawn — This outdoor garden is a genuine urban oasis, exuding a serene, intimate vibe and illuminated entirely by a few candles. 6/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. THE PAWN — The modern British restaurant and bar, a former pawn shop, has an outdoor balcony from which to enjoy a view of Hong Kong’s 100-year-old trams. 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444. The Tonno — This complex features a bar, a clubbing zone, a restaurant, a live music lounge and karaoke rooms, taking “allaround entertainment” to a whole new level. Head here for an epic marathon of dancing, drinking, Elton John hits, dart games and Shanghainese buns. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.

Red Bar

RED BAR — Located on a terrace atop IFC Mall, this funky destination bar has a breathtaking public outdoor area with harbor views. 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882. RIEDEL ROOM — The world’s first Riedel Room offers exclusive wines to be enjoyed in Riedel crystal glassware. JW Marriott Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2841-3836. Sake Bar Ginn — Sake sommelier Ayuchi Momose is behind this upper-floor bar. In addition to serving 100 types of sake and 30 Japanese tapas, she also imports special sakes by microbreweries. Shop 4C, 4/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2536-4355. Salon de Ning — Decadent Shanghai art deco lounge with live music Tue-Thu. B/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6705. SHORE — A chill outdoor space and one of the most extensive drinks selection in town. Newly renovated. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2915-1638.

Vibes

VIBES — The Mira hotel’s svelte alfresco drinks venue is home to a stunning secret garden. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5999. VOLAR — Frequented by models and wannabes, Volar can be exclusive, but you can dance the night away to top DJs. B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510. WOOLOOMOOLOO — This steakhouse outlet boasts a gorgeous rooftop with stunning views of Victoria Harbour and the Happy Valley horse racing track. 31/F, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960.

ShopS+Services | The Guide

Flat Out Flattering Load up on gorgeous fall and winter goodies at a designer boutique in Sheung Wan. By Jee Hee Lim For comfy flats and trendy bags this season, look no further than Australian brand Sambag, which opened its first Hong Kong outpost in a peaceful corner in Sheung Wan late last year. The store is one of a handful of individual boutiques to set up shop in this increasingly trendy part of town, co-existing with art galleries and cool new restaurants. Sam Wagner is the designer behind the multi-store brand, which also has eight shops across Australia. “[The brand] is casual enough but it’s also chic enough,” she says. Wagner tells us that it was a natural decision to choose Hong Kong as Sambag’s next stop. “I’ve been coming to Hong Kong for more than 15 years for work and my family used to live here for over a decade, so it was just very natural for me to start in Hong Kong. I also thought it would be a great way to get into the Asian market,” she explains. Sambag works a season ahead in Hong Kong, so customers here can actually get their hands on the Aussie

brand’s newest collection before their Australian counterparts. For her fall/winter collection, Wagner has incorporated various short boots, leather leggings and cashmere, along with five different types of ballet shoes. The Tina flat, named after one of Wagner’s friends, is a low-cut ballet shoe that comes in different patterns like perfect-for-autumn chocolate snakeskin, or eye-catching neon coral. Another hot item from the collection is the Olivia, a handbag named after one of Sambag’s employees. The grainy leather bag with straps and beautiful gold fringe comes in black, cobalt and navy. Shop away! Sambag, 6 Po Yan St., Sheung Wan, 2698-1285.

Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.

40 W H E R E HONG KONG I Octobe r 2 013

Tel: 2730 1251

ShopS+Services | The Guide

This Just In UK fashion label Whistles has landed in Hong Kong. By Kate Springer The latest UK high street brand to touch down in Hong Kong is Whistles, which partnered with department store Lane Crawford to open a shop-in-shop a few months ago. Founded in 1978, Whistles once had a reputation for being quite old-fashioned, but it has been revitalizing its cool factor ever since former Topshop brand director Jane Shepherdson took over as chief executive in 2008, transforming its image from drab to fab. While the price points are slightly above Topshop and Zara territory, Whistles is still a realistic upmarket brand that stays on the heels of trends without selling too many one-hit wonders. It’s known for minimalistic, city-chic looks that come in a variety of gorgeous shades and feminine cuts—perfect for work or a classy night out. In addition to the refined working wardrobe, you can also try on lacy dresses, funky bomber jackets, leather accessories and slinky tees that range in price from about $400 to $4,000. Whistles doesn’t have its own standalone store yet, but the brand has made itself at home in a classy corner of Lane Crawford. The set-up has a modern feel to it, with stark white surrounds, industrial-chic black-andwhite piping and geometric showcases. Whistles, Lane Crawford, 3/F, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388. Also available at other Lane Crawford locations.

Shopping Centers APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. Millennium City 5, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 3148-1200. ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous roof garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234.

42 W H E R E HONG KONG I Octobe r 2 013

HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8601. HYSAN PLACE — This brand-new mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of high-quality dining options. 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222.

IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international high-end brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308. HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089.

ShopS+Services | The Guide ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2890-6823. THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols or upscale supermarket. 115 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2921-2199. LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mongkok, 3520-2800, www.langhamplace.com.hk. LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 18 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-2166, www.leegardens.com.hk.

Shops, Boutiques and Local Designers Amours Antiques — Antique jewelry and vintage clothes. 45 Staunton St., Central, 2803-7877. Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men. Shop 123, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, www.blancdechine.com. Daydream Nation — A locally grown label that incorporates fashion with other art forms like theater, dance, music, film and visual arts. They offer their own collection of clothing and accessories as well as works from local artists and indie bands. Daydream Nation Circus Shop, 2/F, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2817-6313. Another store at K11 in Tsim Sha Tsui.

Walter Ma — Well-established designer offering luxury fashion. 16 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 2838-7655. Western Market — An Edwardian-styled building with restaurants and shops selling Chinese crafts and fabrics. 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 6029-2675.

Department Stores Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant— the Fourth Floor —and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388, www.harveynichols.com.

Joyce boutique

G.O.D.

G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876, www.god.com.hk. Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place

PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8988.

Kapok — Offers meticulously selected international and local brands for menswear, womenswear, bags and accessories, as well as lifestyle products. G/F, 5, St Francis Yard Wan Chai, 2549-9254. SPY Henry Lau — Edgy and bold fashion for men and women. 1/F, 5 Cleveland St., Causeway Bay, 2317-6928, www.spyhenrylau.com.

PRINCE’S BUILDING — Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkway to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uber-fashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket. 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2500-0555.

Lane Crawford

One Peking ROAD — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier. 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. Rise Shopping Arcade — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2363-0301. TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 16-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket City’super, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.

44 W H E R E HONG KONG I Octobe r 2 013

JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 28101120; Shop 232, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944; Shop 106, Harbour City, 2-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-8128.

Squarestreet

Squarestreet — Seriously hipster shoes and accessories. G/F, 15 Square St., Sheung Wan, 2362-1086. Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist. Shop 209, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-0238.

LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with must-have designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388. SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The brand-new flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333. SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.

ShopS+Services

The Swank

THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freestanding boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-0842.

Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. 1/F, Star House, 3 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-4061. YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 143-161 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2739-3888.

Tailors DAVID FASHION — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884. LA ELITE FASHION — G/F, 1 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-0040. L & K Custom Tailor — G/F, Mirador Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278. Nita Fashion — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. 2721-9990, www.nitafashions.com. Punjab House — 5/F, Suite C, Golden Crown Court, 66-70 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612, www.punjabhouse.com.hk. Raja Fashion — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624, www.rajafashions.com. REGAL fashion — LG/F, Shop 8 & 9, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-6007. Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423. Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1287.

october 2013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 45

Navigate | The Guide

Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call their Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.

Get Moving

Octopus Cards

Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.

These are “wave-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.

Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.

The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $48, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.

Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.

46 W H E R E HONG KONG I October 2 0 13

Navigate | The Guide Buses

Making Merry in Macau

Hong Kong has two major bus companies: Kowloon Motor Bus — www.kmb.hk, 2745-4466. citybus / New World First BUS — www.nwstbus.com.hk, 2136-8888/ 2873-0818.

Sister city Macau is merely a ferry ride away.

Sights & Attractions

"Skywalking" at Macau Tower

If you have an extra day to spare, consider hopping on a ferry to Macau, a Chinese Special Administrative Region (SAR) that’s home to casinos, colonial Portuguese architecture, and lots of good food. Here are some notable sights to take in while you’re there:

Red Market This red art deco-style monument was completed in 1936, and is named after the red bricks used to build the whole structure. The building also contains a clock tower and a watchtower. Remember to check out the surrounding streets, full of busy shops and fruit and veggie stalls. Corner of Avenida Almirante Lacerda and Avenida Hort e Costa.

The Taipa Houses Museum For something a little off the beaten path, check out the Taipa Houses Museum. Made up of five 1920s-era Portuguese houses that have been carefully restored, these former residences now house exhibitions on Macanese culture and history, as well as a changing lineup of art exhibitions. The most interesting of the five is the Casa Macanese, a faithful replica of a traditional Macanese household, complete with antique furniture and heavy gold-green drapes. Entry is free on Sundays (on other days it’s a princely MOP5). Avendia da Praia, Taipa, (853) 2882-7103, www.iacm.gov.mo.

Macau Tower

Macau Design

The 338-meter high Macau Tower stands out for being the tallest building in Macau. At the main observation deck at 223 meters above the ground, you can catch a glimpse of the Pearl River Delta during the day, and enjoy a gorgeous view of the city lights at night. Don’t miss the Skywalk X (where you get to walk the perimeter of the tower while harnessed to its outer rim) or the tower climb if you’re an extreme sports enthusiast.

A design store that opened just over a year ago, Macau Design (MoD) is a carefully curated shop offering products from local and international designers. Choose from its huge selection, including cute and quirky notebooks and stationery, brightly colored kooky melamine tableware, bags, T-shirts and accessories.

Largo de Torre de Macau, (853) 2893-3339.

Red Market

48 W H E R E HONG KONG I October 2 0 13

Andar do Centro de Actividades Turísticas e Culturais, Ruínas de São Paulo, (853) 2835-7821, www.mod-store.com.

Macau Design

AVENUE OF STARS — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes’ handprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars, along with a statue of martial artist Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly Symphony of Lights. Music plays over loudspeakers here and nowhere else, although the light display can be seen from around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront. BANK OF CHINA TOWER — I. M. Pei designed this 70-story building and bank headquarters to resemble stalks of bamboo. 1 Garden Rd., Central.

Big Buddha

BIG BUDDHA — One of the world’s largest Buddhas, the Tian Tan Buddha took 12 years to build and sits on a lotus throne atop Lantau Island. The more than 200 steps to the top are open from 10am to 5:30pm daily and definitely recommended for the spectacular mountain views. Special admission tickets are available and include a vegetarian meal. Also check out the nearby Po Lin Monastery. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and then Bus 23 to Ngong Ping. CHI LIN NUNNERY—An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It’s a 23,600-squaremeter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1997. It’s centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds. Vegetarian food is available. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888. CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE — Finished in time to host the handover ceremony in July 1997, the center’s roof was designed to look like a seabird’s wings in flight. 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, 2582-8888. HONG KONG DISNEYLAND — Take a trip back to the 1900s on Main Street, catch a train to Fantasyland, float down the Rivers of Adventure, catch a show or blast through outer space in Tomorrowland. When you’re done charting your exotic surroundings take a moment to dine, shop or cavort with the various Disney characters who roam the park. It’s easy to get to via MTR, bus or car. See the website for transportation details. Lantau Island, 1-830-830, park. hongkongdisneyland.com.

Navigate | The Guide

Hong Kong Dolphinwatch — Catch a glimpse of the pink dolphins, an animal so unique to these waters that it was named the official mascot of Hong Kong’s 1997 handover. Tours depart every Wed, Fri and Sun from the Kowloon Hotel in Tsim Tsa Tsui at 9am. The cruise takes up to five hours, and if no dolphins are seen, the company provides a free “go-again guarantee.” $380 for adults, $190 for children under 12 years, with proceeds going to dolphin research. Call 2984-1414 or visit www.hkdolphinwatch.com. HONG KONG ZOOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL GARDENS — Home to 12 endangered species, the zoo successfully breeds rare birds and orangutans. Established in 1871, the park retains all the Victorian accents from that era and is an idyllic spot in the middle of the city. Admission free. Open daily 6am-7pm. Garden Rd., Central. A staircase from Upper Albert Rd. leads to the main entrance.

Sam’s The Man (Just ask his customers)

Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon. Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147

Peak Tram

PEAK TRAM AND VICTORIA PEAK — The world’s steepest funicular railway hauls passengers up Victoria Peak in approximately eight minutes. Once at the top, enjoy panoramic views of the city, or check out the restaurants, shops and various attractions at the Peak Galleria and Peak Tower. The tram runs daily 7am-midnight, tickets $28 one-way, $40 round trip. Bus No. 15C runs between Peak Tram lower terminus and Central, near the Star Ferry. It costs $4.20 for a single journey. Garden Road and Cotton Tree Drive, 2522-0922. SIK SIK YUEN WONG TAI SIN TEMPLE — This active Buddhist temple is large and colorful with beautiful adjoining gardens. Have your fortune told by palm readers in the main arcade. Open 7am-5:30pm. A small donation is expected. Follow signs from Wong Tai Sin MTR stop. 2327-8141.

Man Mo Temple

MAN MO TEMPLE — This temple was built in 1847 to honor the God of Literature, Man Cheong, and the God of War, Mo Tai. A grade-1 historical building, it is one of biggest tourist attractions in Central. 124-126 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan.

Star Ferry

STAR FERRY — Cross Victoria Harbour between Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon Peninsula on the Star Ferry. These open-deck ferries are one of Hong Kong’s most recognizable attractions and a common, cheap—and pleasant—form of transportation. Take the MTR to Central or Tsim Sha Tsui and follow the signs. ST. JOHN’S CATHEDRAL — A beautiful cathedral built in the shape of a cross. Open daily from 7am to 6pm for quiet prayer and meditation. Take the MTR to Central.

Ngong Ping 360

NGONG PING 360 — Home to a theater, teahouse, nature center, cultural themed village and more, Ngong Ping 360 is best known for its 5.7-kilometer cable-car service that offers panoramic views of Lantau Island’s lush valleys, the South China Sea and the world-famous Tian Tan Buddha. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and walk five minutes to the cable-car terminal. OPEN-TOP BUS TOUR — One Big Bus day tour ticket includes 24 hour hop-on-hopoff access to the red tour (Hong Kong Island) and the blue tour (Kowloon), as well as prerecorded commentary in 10 languages and other perks. Unit KP-38, 1/F, Kowloon Star Ferry Pier, Tsim Sha Tsui, 3102-9021. 50 W H E R E HONG KONG I October 2 0 13

Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery

TEN THOUSAND BUDDHAS MONASTERY — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800 Buddhas stored in three temples, four pavilions and a five-story pagoda. The one that you’re likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk Yuet Kai, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin MTR, Exit B, 2691-1067, www.10kbuddhas.org.

Navigate

TAI O — This charming fishing village is a maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the very tip of Lantau Island. It’s a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, the picturesque Tin Hau Temple and a couple of interesting little museums. Take a ferry from Central.

Embassies & Consulates Argentina 2523-3208; Australia 2827-8881; Bangladesh 2827-4278; Belgium 2524-3111; Brazil 2525-7002; Canada 3719-4700; Chile 2827-1826; China (China Travel) 2853-3888; Columbia 2545-8547; Czech Republic 2802-2212; Egypt 2827-0668; Finland 2525-5385; France 3752-9900; Germany 2105-8788; Greece 2774-1682; India 3970-9900; Israel 2821-7500; Italy 2522-0033; Japan 2522-1184; Korea 25294141; Laos 2544-1186; Malaysia 2821-0800; Mexico 2511-3305; Netherlands 25229200; New Zealand 2525-5044; Pakistan 2827-0295; Philippines 2823-8501; Peru 2868-2622; Poland 2840-0779; Russia 2877-7188; Singapore 2527-2212; Spain 2525-3041; Sweden 2521-1212; Switzerland 3509-5000; Taiwan 2530-1187; Thailand 2521-6481; Turkey 2572-1331; United Arab Emirates 2866-1823; United Kingdom 2901-3000; USA 2523-9011; Venezuela 2730-8099; Vietnam 2591-4510.

Financial Matters Generally, business hours are weekdays 9am5pm, with a lunch hour from 1pm-2pm, and Saturdays 9am-1pm. The local currency is the Hong Kong dollar. There is no central mint; instead, notes are issued by three separate private banks and the city’s Monetary Authority. The Hong Kong dollar is pegged to the US dollar at a rate of approximately US$1 to HK$7.79. Denominations include $10, $20, $50, $100, $500 and $1,000 notes. Coins come in denominations of 10, 20 and 50 cents, and one, two, five and 10 dollars. BANKS — Major banks are open weekdays 9am-4:30pm, and Saturdays 9am12:30pm. Banks are closed Sundays and public holidays. Some services, such as foreign exchange-related transactions, are not available at banks one hour before closing. The following details are for the banks’ main offices, call for retail locations: Bank of America, 41/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 2847-5222; Citibank, Citibank Tower, 3 Garden Rd., Central, 2868-8888; HSBC, 1 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2233-3000; Standard Chartered Bank, 4 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2886-8868.

October 2 0 13 I WHERE H ONG KONG 51

Walking Tours | The Guide Take the MTR to the Diamond Hill station. Leave the station from Exit C2 and follow the signs pointing to Nan Lian Garden.

) Nan

Lian Garden

This 35,000-square-meter Tang Dynasty-style garden features characteristic timber structures, water ponds, various oddly shaped rocks and lots of old and valuable trees. Apart from the scenic Lotus Pond and Blue Pond, there is also a restaurant called Chi Lin Vegetarian where visitors can enjoy vegetarian food provided by the Chi Lin Nunnery. Inside this lovely green oasis, visitors can also experience Chinese tea-drinking culture and etiquette at the teahouse that’s also within the garden’s grounds. Get back on the MTR and get out at the Wong Tai Sin station, exit B3. Follow the signs pointing to the Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple.

U Sik

Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple

A Walk of Good Fortune The Wong Tai Sin district gets its name from the famous Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple, the area’s most prominent landmark. It attracts thousands of worshippers on a daily basis who are seeking help for personal or business matters. Other places of interest include the Hau Wong Temple, which dates back to the Qing Dynasty, and Nan Lian Garden, built in the style of the ancient Tang Dynasty. The neighboring area of Kowloon City is where the last emperor of the Song Dynasty fled after he escaped invading Mongol forces more than 700 years ago. More recently, it housed an infamously lawless enclave, the Kowloon Walled City, which was torn down in 1994 and replaced by a park of the same name. The district is also renowned for its dining, with a group of almost 200 restaurants within a 10-block radius that cater to a wide variety of tastes.

52 W H E R E HONG KONG I October 2 0 13

This is one of the most popular temples in Hong Kong. According to legend, Wong Tai Sin is able to “make every wish come true upon request.” The temple is home to three different religions: Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism. The part containing Wong Tai Sin’s portrait is where worshippers pray for good fortune through offerings, and seek divine guidance through fortune telling. Shake a wooden container filled with fortune sticks and see what the future holds. Open daily, 7am–5:30pm. Take the MTR to the Lok Fu station, leave the station via Exit B and follow the directional signs pointing to the Hau Wong Temple.

Hau Wong Temple One of the legends surrounding this temple, built in 1730 under the Qing Dynasty, says it was erected to commemorate a Chinese general who helped the last Song emperor escape the forces invading Kowloon. Another legend, though, claims it was dedicated

to a local inhabitant who had cured the last emperor of the southern Song Dynasty of a serious illness. Cross the road and walk along Tung Tau Tsuen Road to reach the North Gate of Kowloon Walled City Park.

U Kowloon Walled

City Park

By a quirk of history, Kowloon Walled City remained outside British jurisdiction after Hong Kong became a colonyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; and subsequently became an area with an infamous reputation. Today, this Chinese-style park harmoniously combines the history and atmosphere of the former Walled City. Sites worth visiting include the Garden of the Chinese Zodiac, the Chess Garden, the Mountain View Pavilion and the Garden of Four Seasons. Open daily, 6:30am-11pm. Call 2716-9962 for more information. Walk through Kowloon Walled City Park and Carpenter Road Park. Cross Carpenter Road to reach Nam Kok Road, also known as the Kowloon City food district.

Kowloon City Food District An area of 10 streets bounded by Prince Edward Road West, Junction Road and Carpenter Road, the Kowloon City Food District is where you can find around 200 inexpensive and often family-run restaurants serving mostly local favorites, Southeast Asian cuisine and yummy western pastries. Afterwards, take green minibus 25M from Sa Po Road (beside the Regal Oriental Hotel) to the Kowloon Tong MTR station, and then take the MTR back to your hotel.

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Metropark Wan Chai

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里n 交加 ss L d r 2 013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 57 CroOctobe R d oo 跑馬地運動 W

30 Things we LOve about Hong Kong 5

1 Counting the Ten Thousand

9 Shaking fortune-telling

Buddhas at the eponymous hilltop monastery near Sha Tin.

bamboo sticks at the Wong Tai Sin Temple.

2 Dressing up for high tea at

!0 Saying hi to Bruce Lee at the Avenue of Stars, Tsim Sha Tsui.

The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6772.

3 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach, Lantau Island.

!1 Shopping at Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay.

!2 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. 4 Having our palms read at the Temple Street Night Market, Gough Street, Central. Yau Ma Tei. !3 Hiking along the beautiful Sai Kung peninsula. 5 Spotting endangered white dolphins with Dolphinwatch off !4 Riding the cable car over Lantau Island, 2984-1414. Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Tian Tan Buddha (Big Buddha). 6 Seeing all your animated favorites come to life at Hong Lantau Island. Kong Disneyland. Lantau Island, !5 Haggling with hawkers for 1830-830. jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and 7 Dining aboard the kitschy-cool Jumbo Floating Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei. Restaurant. Shum Wan Pier !6 Slurping oysters for brunch Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, at Cafe Deco. 1-2/F, The Peak Aberdeen, 2553-9111. Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., 2849-5111. 8 Cruising Victoria Harbour !7 Setting your watch by the on the Duk Ling, an authentic Noonday Gun. 221 Gloucester Chinese fishing junk, Rd., Causeway Bay. 2573-5282.

58 W H E R E HONG KONG I Octobe r 2 013

!8 Snaking through the high-rises on the Mid-Levels Escalator—the longest in the world. Cochrane, Shelley and Peel Streets, Central.

@4 Enjoying free traditional kung fu demonstrations and cultural performances at Kowloon Park every Sunday from 2:30–4:30pm. Weather permitting.

!9 Meeting Pui Pui, our famous crocodile, at the eco-friendly Hong Kong Wetland Park. Tin Shui Wai, New Territories, 2708-8885.

@5 Taking a romantic trip from Central to Tsim Sha Tsui on the famous Star Ferry.

@0 Taking the Peak Tram to visit Hong Kong celebrities at Madame Tussauds. Shop P101, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., 2849-6966. @1 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 23-35 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. @2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building to be constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill. @3 Taking the oldest ride in Hong Kong—a tram from Western (Sheung Wan) to Causeway Bay.

@6 Walking down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defence, 2569-1500. @7 Drinking in the view at a panoramic watering hole like Eyebar. 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2487-3988. @8 Checking out the old Kowloon-Canton Railway Clock Tower. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. @9 Getting a shave and a trim at the Mandarin Barber. Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4088. #0 Bird watching at the Mai Po Marshes. Mai Po, 2526-4473.

Arch Angel Authenticated museum quality Asian antiquities. 53/55 Hollywood Road • Central • Hong Kong • Tel: (852) 2851 6848 • Fax: (852) 2851 6778 • Open Daily: 9:30-6:30 Email: antiques@ArchAngelAntiques.com.hk