WHERE Hong Kong - October 2014 by WHERE Hong Kong

O c t o b e r 2 014

the complete guide to go

速

Hong Kong

Best sandwiches in town National Day fireworks customized HK tours

Know Thy Neighborhood Four up-and-coming districts

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where Hong Kong 10.2014 ®

the guide

06 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events

14 art + culture Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening

20 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town

26 Drinks Our favorite places to sip a cocktail

38 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot

40 Map Central, Hong Kong Island

Also inside 28 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers

features 08 Districtly Speaking Four up-and-coming neighborhoods

13 Playing With Fireworks National Day celebrations

34 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info 42 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences

on the cover O c t O b e r 2014

the cOmplete guide tO gO

Hong Kong

20 Breaking Bread

The best sandwiches in town Best sandwiches in town national day fireworks customized hk tours

Lui Seng Chun is a historical relic that has been converted into a Traditional Chinese Medicine center. Read about its history and its neighborhood in our feature story on p. 8.

Know Thy neighborhood four up-and-coming districts

wheretraveler.com The website from the editors of Where Magazine. Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.

O c t o b e r 2 0 14 I WHERE hong k o n g 3

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On the web: www.wherehongkong.com HK Magazine Media group HK | ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION General MANAGER & Publisher Greg Crandall director of sales Gary Wong Strategic Sales Director Jan Cheng Associate Advertising Director Joe Ng Senior Sales Manager Joyce Wu Senior Advertising Manager Kent Ma Advertising Manager Dominic Lucien Brettell, Keiko Ko, Rita Ng Assistant Advertising Manager Arena Choi Advertising Executive Harriette Cheung, Lamy Lam, Winnie Cheng Advertising Coordinator Christine So Marketing MANAGER James Gannaban Marketing & Circulation Executive Charmaine Mirandilla Accounts Services Executive Sharon Cheung IT SYSTEMS Manager Derek Wong

HK | EDITORIAL EDITOR-in-chief Zach Hines EDITOR Adele Wong STAFF WRITER Evelyn Lok CONTRIBUTORs Laura Chan, Paul Benedict Lee, Sam Hui, Andrea Lo, Katie Kenny, Kate Springer

HK | PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGER Blackie Hui ART DIRECTOR Pierre Pang Senior graphic designer Mike Hung graphic designer Iris Mak

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Painted Pottery Fat Lady Figure Tang Dynasty

early pottery ceramics sculptures authenticated museum and collector quality

hot dates Hong Kong By Evelyn Lok

October 2-5 Worlds Apart The Asia Contemporary Art Show will take over four floors of the Conrad Hotel for its biannual show. Continuing with the theme of “Bringing a World of Art to Hong Kong,” there’ll be works from plenty of international artists as well as regional ones: check out piecesby sculptor Daniel de la Cruz (pictured), Hong Kong-based Mo Shah, who makes surrealist photo-collages, and Australian artist Emma Hack, who camouflages herself into intricately patterned backgrounds. 40-43/F, Conrad Hong Kong, 88 Queensway, Admiralty. $180 for two; or $260 per VIP ticket from www.hkticketing.com.

October 1

October 10-11

October 10-12

Get Back on the Horse

Muscle Memory

Old School Cool

With the racing season underway from September, the Hong Kong Jockey Club gears up for its annual National Day Race Meeting, where jockeys and horses will vie for the National Day Cup. It’s not all races, though: for this special event, there’ll be a whole host of cultural performances to celebrate the founding of the People’s Republic of China (See p.13 on where to catch fireworks).

The collab between Belgian avant garde dance group Ultima Vez and its founder/filmmaker/ choreographer Wim Vandekeybus astounded audiences in their 1987 debut of "What the Body Does Not Remember," a production done with live music. Vandekeybus returned in 2013 with a whole new cast and game-changing moves for their latest world tour, bringing back his spark that traces the fine line between dance and music.

The first of its kind in Hong Kong, the Classic Car and Vintage Festival brings shiny retro marques to the New Central Harbourfront and an accompanying carnival of all things vintage dotted with F&B stalls, kids’ activities, clothing and handicrafts.

All day. Sha Tin Racecourse. $10 at the door for access to public enclosure.

6 W H E R E HONG KONG I o c t o b e r 2 014

8pm. Kwai Tsing Theatre, 12 Hing Ning Rd., Kwai Fong, $160-420 from www.urbtix.hk.

11am-10pm. New Central Harbourfront. www.hkclassiccar.com. $280-3,000 from classiccar.ticketflap.com.

hot dates October 9-12

Through October 14

Glamor Girls

Going Cuckoo Naiad Productions returns with an exciting and promising production: "One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest." The play by Dale Wasserman (and original novel by Ken Kesey) was made famous by the 1975 Jack Nicholson film. Haven't seen it? It's about a band of patients in a mental institution, suppressed by the authoritarian and brutal Nurse Ratched. Oct 9-12, 8pm; 11-12, 3pm. HKRep Black Box, 8/F, Sheung Wan Civic Centre, 345 Queen's Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 2853-2689. $230-260 from www.urbtix.hk.

CineFan is screening a whole series of black and white films by Joseph L. Mankiewicz, which means all the classic Hollywood glam and romance with some of the most iconic leading ladies ever to cross the silver screen. See a selection of six films, including "All About Eve" (Oct 4) starring Bette Davis and a young Marilyn Monroe, "The Barefoot Contessa" (Oct 1; 11) with Ava Gardner, and "Cleopatra," (Oct 12) with Elizabeth Taylor in her most legendary role. Various times. Agnès b. Cinema, Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2582-0200. $65 from www.urbtix.hk.

October 2-5

October 17 Onwards

October 30 Onwards

Lost and Found

Bottoms Up

Eat, Drink, and Be Merry

For the first time ever, the HK Sinfonietta is presenting the songs of a local multiple award-winning musical, "The Passage Beyond"—about a daughter and her longlost father—with its expert orchestral accompaniment. Under the direction of conductor Yip Wing-sie, local theater veteran and composer Chu Pak-him together with a stellar cast from "Actors' Family" will take to the stage. Sung in Cantonese.

Raise your stein to Ein Prosit as Hong Kong once again goes curiously crazy for this annual Oktoberfest bash. The biggest event in the city is the outdoor Marco Polo Bierfest, which includes plenty of German delicacies, traditional song and games, and of course, beer.

The annual Hong Kong Wine and Dine Festival is here, bringing a world of food and drink to the New Central Harbourfront. Great wine, snacks, live music and a dazzling Hong Kong skyline: what more do you need?

Oct 17-Nov 8, 6pm onwards. Viewing Platform, 6/F, Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $140-240 from www.hkticketing.com.

Oct 30-Nov 2, various times. New Central Harbourfront. $30 at the door. www.discoverhongkong.com.

Oct 2-5, 8pm. Concert Hall, City Hall, 5 Edinburgh Place, Central. $180-480 from www.urbtix.hk. o c t o b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 7

Y Y

Districtly Speaking Explore these four exciting districts in Hong Kong. By Laura Chan, Paul Benedict Lee, Evelyn Lok

rom trendy cafés to historical buildings, there’s something for every visitor in our handy guide to four up-and-coming districts stretching across Kowloon and Hong Kong Island. Read on and be inspired!

Lai Chi Kok Lai Chi Kok has experienced quite a transformation through the years, evolving from an oil depot during Japanese occupation in the 40s to the residential and industrial area it is today. With its distinctive history, there are plenty of arts and heritage spots in the neighborhood, as well as places to eat and shop.

A Healing Touch Now accommodating the Hong Kong Baptist University’s School of Chinese Medicine, Lui Seng Chun was a tong lau, a classic style of apartment building prominent in the 1930s. Apart from being a residence, the iconic four-story building also housed retail shops on the ground floor before tenants vacated in the 1970s. Lui Seng Chun was labeled a Grade I historic building in 2000 by the Hong Kong government. The Baptist University revitalized the building and turned it into a Chinese healthcare clinic in April 2012. Guided tours are available by appointment from Monday to Saturday. 119 Lai Chi Kok Rd., 3411-0628.

Big Deal If you’re tired of conventional malls or simply hope to get adventurous, head over to the Hong Kong Industrial Centre. Located 5 minutes from Exit E of Lai Chi Kok MTR Station, this factory building is a major wholesale market for clothes and accessories. Don’t be put off by the word “wholesale”: the center runs as a retail shopping mall every Saturday. Divided into three blocks, the massive building is packed on Saturday afternoons, when the general public comes in. 489-491 Castle Peak Rd. Lui Seng Chun 8 W H E R E HONG KONG I O c t o b e r 2 014

Lui Seng Chun

Back to School The Jao Tsung-I Academy at the former site of the Lai Chi Kok Hospital compound advocates the importance of Chinese culture in relation to cultural exchange. The Academy houses permanent exhibitions, including “A Century of Contributions”, which explains the site’s transformation from a quarantine station to a hospital, up to the cultural heritage center it is today. Apart from hosting exhibitions, the Academy also regularly organizes concerts and cultural seminars. Register online for the free daily guided tours. 800 Castle Peak Rd., 2100-2828. Jao Tsung-I Academy

Trend Watch

Hong Kong Industrial Centre

Jao Tsung-I Academy

Trendy new mall D2 Place has been redeveloped from a former factory building into a shopping center and office complex. Sports lovers can head to Heng Fu Sport Free Outlet (2/F), which stocks sports apparel from major brands like Nike and New Balance. The mall also features a range of different restaurants, but make sure to check out the Paramita Vegetarian Restaurant (Shop 302) if you’re hungry for some healthy dishes. The GreenLive indoor driving range will also open this month for golf enthusiasts. 9 Cheung Yee St., 3620-3098.

Jordan This convenient harborside district is home to locals as well as many Indian, Nepalese, and Vietnamese immigrants, many of whom have set up restaurants serving authentic ethnic fare nearby. You’ll see that much of Hong Kong’s flavor remains on these streets, from parks to markets to greasy spoons brimming with inexpensive delicacies.

Bun Me For some of the best Vietnamese bánh mí in town, be sure to hit up Tim Kee. It provides large and small baguettes or garlic bread toasted to perfection, put together with four key ingredients: Vietnamese sausage, salted pork knuckle, paté, and spiced pork belly. Shop A, G/F, Man Yiu Building, 30 Man Yuen St., 2385-7939.

Milk It At the Australia Dairy Company, you’ll often see a long line outside. Accelerated service and warm, homey foods is the name of the game here. Be sure to try the scrambled or fried eggs on top of expertly

Temple Street

toasted bread, an assortment of milkbased desserts, plus an array of traditional Hong Kong diner favorites. G/F, 47-49 Parkes St.

Green With Envy At the junction of Kansu Street and Battery Street is the city’s hotspot for the jade business. Demarcated by a three-ton jade stone and a set of traditional gates, at Jade Market you’ll find hundreds of stalls catering anything from pendants to jewelry to specific lucky charms for your Chinese zodiac.

Tim Kee

All Night Long The southern end of Temple Street, one of Hong Kong’s most famous flea markets, begins in Jordan. While the market is known as a shopping hub for its cheap souvenirs, fortune tellers and nightly Chinese Opera performances, locals and visitors alike also love to kick back at the streetside open-air seafood restaurants with a beer or two. Stop by Temple Spice Crabs (210 Temple St., 2487-3688) for a taste of none other than the signature spicy fried crabs. Temple Street.

Kansu Street and Battery Street. o c t o b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 9

Sai Ying Pun

Ping Pong 129

In 1841, the British made their first military base in Sai Ying Pun (literally translated as “west camp” in English). Nowadays, the hilly district is a quaint residential quarter with boutique shops and specialty cafés lining the streets.

Fun in the Sun The Sun Yat Sen Memorial Park marks the spot where the exiled Sun Yat Sen docked his ship so that his associates could come on board to meet him. Go lounge on the memorial lawn: a lush, well-kept patch of green with a statue of the revolutionary in the middle. On a clear day, the harborfront views of West Kowloon are hard to beat. 18 East St. North.

Off the Beaten Path Alternative culture buffs will love Above Second art gallery, which exhibits contemporary works influenced by illustration, graphic design, graffiti, comic books, pop culture, and street art. The gallery showcases work by emerging and established urban artists from Hong Kong and around the world.

Above Second

Getting Grilled

Old Sport

If you like yakitori-style skewers, make sure you check out BBQ, a super casual, no-nonsense restaurant that has long served the residents of Hong Kong. The dishes are easy to share and are best paired with a cheap beer.

Don’t let the exterior of this former ping pong hall fool you. Once you walk through the narrow corridor and down some steep steps, you’ll find one of the biggest reveals in Hong Kong: a high-ceilinged Spanish gin bar serving over 50 different kinds of gin. Ping Pong 129’s relaxed décor marries original fixtures, including old-school windows and railings, with art-lined walls. The big neon sign above the bar says “Train Your Body” in Chinese, paying homage to the space’s ping pong days.

129-133 Third St., 2548-9880.

9 First St., 3483-7950.

Java Junction Opendoor Cafe is located right on busy Connaught Road West. Besides coffee, you can also get kefir smoothies, sandwiches, salads, and cakes. Either lounge in the highceilinged and art-filled space, or stretch out in the outdoor courtyard. 120 Connaught Rd. West, 3460-3880. 10 W H E R E HONG KONG I O c t o b e r 2 014

Stack

Open Tue-Sun 6pm-11:30pm. LG/F, Nam Cheong House, 129 Second St., 9158-1584.

Wong Chuk Hang

Spring Workshop

Wong Chuk Hang, on the south side of Hong Kong Island, was once a major industrial hub. But in recent years, factory spaces have been converted into private kitchens and art galleries, giving the district a truly bohemian vibe. Plan your itinerary in advance, because it’s relatively difficult to navigate on foot.

Make a Statement Founded by Dominique Perregaux in October 2003, Art Statements gallery represents internationally celebrated contemporary artists in Hong Kong and mainland China, and has become an important player in both markets. Beside its regular exhibits, the gallery is actively involved in dealing in both western and Chinese modern and contemporary art.

Snack Attack Upmarket mall-slash-office complex One Island South has a variety of restaurants and cafes that are perfect for a casual lunch. There’s Kyoto Matcha Cafe, where you can eat Japanese noodles or green tea ice-cream. Next door is Mum, which specializes in home cooked vegetarian food. Or if you’re keen for Italian, there’s GCX, which serves pizzas, pastas, and panini. 2 Heung Yip Rd., Wong Chuk Hang.

One Stop Shop

Factory D, 8/F, Gee Chang Hong Centre, 65 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., 2696-2300.

New York-style resto The Butchers Club Deli is located inside Ed1tus, a 7,000-square-foot men’s fashion showroom. By day, it serves natural and organic charcuterie meats, and by night, it becomes an extension of the original Butchers Club private kitchen in Aberdeen, serving burgers and dry-aged steaks.

Spring Thing

16/F, Shui Ki Industrial Building, 18 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., 2884-0768.

If you take a taxi over the Wong Chuk Hang flyover, you might just catch sight of some slender aluminium poles (local architecture firm Eskyiu’s “Industrial Forest” installation) standing from the terrace of Spring Workshop. Inside SW, there is a main gallery space and a small art library with a large communal table, which is free and open to the public. This fall, catch the exhibition called “Islands off the Shore of Asia”, which explores the ideological connotations of remote islands claimed by different nations throughout eastern Asia. 3/F, Remex Centre, 42 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., 2110-4370. (Entrance on Heung Yip Road.)

The Butchers Club Deli

Home Sweet Home Casa Capriz, a 2,600-square-foot vintage homeware and furniture showroom, is the brainchild of Italian-Malaysian designer Irene Capriz, who handpicks hardto-find vintage pieces from Europe, Asia, and the Middle East for lucky shoppers in Hong Kong. The unique pieces include collectible Louis Vuitton travel trunks, vintage stools and retro desk lamps. 16/F, Shui Ki Industrial Building, 18 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., 9318-1730.

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HARBOUR C I T Y 路 PA C I F I C P L A C E

w w w.msbscakery.hk

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the guide

Playing With Fireworks Celebrate Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s National Day on October 1 on board the Aqua Luna. The red-tipped junk ship (pictured, in the center) will be gliding along Victoria Harbour on the night of the fireworks, offering a unique vantage point right from the water when the show begins at 8pm. At $812 per adult and $438 per child, passengers get to enjoy a two-hour ride and indulge in canapes and drinks while on board. There are two pick-up points: North Point pier at 7pm, or Hung Hom pier at 7:15pm. Call 2116-8821 to make a booking. Prefer to catch the show on land? Grab a drink and a front row seat at posh Aqua Spirit (29-30/F, One Peking Road, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288) instead.

Art+culture | The Guide

Art to Art Two city-wide exhibitions to look forward to. By Evelyn Lok

Oh Snap

HK International Photography Festival

The most important photography event of the year— the HK International Photography Festival— features four incredible exhibitions and a series of talks and seminars from the masters. The festival started in August with a showcase of works by celebrated Indian photojournalist Raghu Rai, followed by "Tradition/ anti-Tradition", a retrospective show of works from Photo Pictorial magazine. Continuing in October and November is "Voice of Tacitness", an exhibition of works by Asian women photographers exploring their freedom of expression (or lack thereof) in their home countries. Rounding off the festival is "Twin Peaks”, a collection of contemporary snapshots of Hong Kong by eight active local photographers. Through Nov 3. Various locations. See the full program at www.hkipf.org.hk.

Star Light, Star Bright

Fleeting Light

This year marks the fourth in Hong Kong's largescale interactive media arts exhibitions: "Fleeting Light," a city-wide exhibition at several sites across town. A highlight is an installation of human figures gently swimming up and down the ICC building in West Kowloon, programmed by renowned media artist Jim Campbell. The artist will also take over Edinburgh Place with his touring "Scattered Light" piece: 2000 lightbulbs strung around in a condensed, random manner. Along with a Jim Campbell retrospective also held at City U, there'll be works by local artists exploring light and urban history: Samson Young's "Stanley" exhibition explores the alternate history of the southside, and Leung Mee Ping's "Star Pupas" app allows you to identify and illuminate each star in the night sky. Through Oct 31. Various locations city-wide. www.hkfleetinglight.com.

Fleeting Light

art galleries 10 Chancery Lane Gallery — Established in 2001, this gallery focuses on established and emerging artists from around the world. Consisting of three large gallery spaces, it not only holds exhibitions of paintings, photographs, installations and videos, but also performances by renowned artists. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, Central, 2810-0065.

1a Space — Founded in 1998, 1a Space is one of the city's leading contemporary visual art organizations. Located in a former cattle shed , it's an independent, non-profit venture established by local artists that encourages interaction between the art community and the public through exhibitions, seminars, festivals and cultural exchange programs. Unit 14, Cattle Depot Artist Village, 63 Ma Tau Kok Rd., To Kwa Wan, 2529-0087.

AP Contemporary — AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2118.

You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.

14 W H E R E HONG KONG I o c t o b e r 2 014

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Art+culture | The Guide Agnes b. Librairie Galerie — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnes b. has a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world. G/F, 118 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2869-5505. Alisan Fine Arts — This well-established gallery has organized hundreds of exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world. It also mounts exhibitions for overseas venues. Room 2305, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091. Arch Angel Art Gallery — Arch angel Art Gallery features a collection of contemporary Vietnamese and Southeast Asian paintings acquired directly from the artists. Some of the paintings are from founder Koos Groot's private collection. 30 Peel St., Central, 2851-6882. Art Beatus Gallery — Established in the early 1990s, Art Beatus features mainly original paintings and art by contemporary Chinese artists. Most of its collection has a retro slant, and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoon as vehicles for expression. Has a branch in Vancouver. G/F, 129-133 Wellington St., Central, 2526-0818. Asia Fine Art — Dedicated to promoting young Asian artists at affordable prices, this gallery has regular exhibitions of work from China, Vietnam and Indonesia and Myanmar for sale on site and online. G/F, 14 Sik On St., Wan Chai, 2522-0405.

Asia Society Gallery

Asia Society Gallery — Asia Society Hong Kong's big, brand-spankin'-new headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences-97 percent of which are open to the public-the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511. Ben Brown Fine Arts — After 10 years at Sotheby’s and two more at a private gallery, Ben Brown and his wife sought to create a space that housed pieces reflective of their tastes—primarily on European modern and contemporary artworks. Ben Brown Fine Arts, 301, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2522-9600. Blindspot Gallery — Blindspot Gallery relocated from its original Central location to this larger industrial warehouse in Aberdeen, on the south side of Hong Kong Island. It's the setting for large scale exhibitions, private viewings and special events. 15/F, Po Chai 16 W H E R E HONG KONG I o c t o b e r 2 014

Industrial Building, 28 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 2517-6238 . Connoisseur Art Gallery — Specializing in contemporary Chinese fine art since 1989, Connoisseur features such acclaimed artists as Paris-based Jia Juan-li, renowned Guangzhou artist Zhang Da-zhong and still life artist Liu Ying-zhao.Shop G3, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2868-5358. Contemporary by Angela Li — Perhaps best known for introducing Chinese artists Chen Jiagang and Liao Yibai to the art world, CBAL boasts a lovely space and carefully curated exhibitions. G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 3571-8200.

photography, paper media to canvas. Room 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Centre, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529. Grotto Fine Art — Curated by Henry Auyeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery exclusively represents local Chinese artists, with a particular interest in the new and avant-garde art forms. You'll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixed-media and conceptual installation pieces. 31C-D, 2/F, Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270. Hanart TZ Gallery — A specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by internationally recognized mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone. Room 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019.

De Sarthe Gallery

de Sarthe Gallery — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the U.S. and Europe, de Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, Club Lusitano Building, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896. Espace Louis Vuitton — LV has been invading gallery spaces for the past half decade, stirring unrest in the hearts of hard-line art critics but appreciation in the eyes of those beholders who're able to look past reservations about brand-name commercialism. Louis Vuitton Mansion, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 8100-1182. Gagosian Gallery — With 14 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. They opened their doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an all-new exhibition by Damien Hirst-Gagosian only exhibits the creme-de-la-creme of the art world. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555.

Lehmann Maupin

Lehmann Maupin — With the original branch in New York and with its reputation of supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery opened its doors here on March 14. Architect Rem Koolhas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Unit 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2530-0025. New Gallery on Old Bailey — Established in 1999, the gallery aims to promote contemporary Chinese fine art. It exhibits the work of well-established artists in a variety of styles-namely realism, surrealism, still-lifes, portraiture and modern abstraction. The gallery has an exhibition program and also gives advice to corporate clients about art commissioning and acquisition. 4/F, Kai Tak, 35 Tai Yau St., San Po Kong, 2234-9889.

Galerie du Monde

Galerie du Monde — Specializing in modern and contemporary Chinese art, and a champion of up-and-coming talents, Galerie du Monde is known for innovative exhibits that cross mediums: from sculpture to

Opera Gallery

Opera Gallery Hong Kong — This gallery features works by world-famous international

Address: Ground Floor, 1E Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong. (Opposite the Holiday Inn Golden Mile Hotel’s Mody Road entrance) Telephone: 2368-0040, 2723-0056 Email: laelite@netvigator.com 九龍尖沙咀麼地道1E地下 (金域假日酒店麼地道入口對面)

Art+culture | The Guide artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Renoir and Chinese painter Ting Shao-kuang, among others. G-3/F, W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-1208. Picture This Gallery — The city's largest affordable-art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children's rooms and sporting prints. They'll also frame your fragile old artwork. 1308, 13/F, 9 Queen's Rd. Central, Central, 2525-2820.

sculptures from China and South-Eastern Asia are found in the viewing galleries, plus there are over 200 paintings in the extensive ancestral scroll collection. 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848.

and Cantonese opera, plus a Children's Discovery Gallery of natural and cultural history, including toy-making. Closed Tuesdays and public holidays. 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188.

Lam & Co Antiquities Hong Kong Maritime Museum

Lam & Co Antiques — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silver ware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offer repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services. 2/F, 151 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877. Plum Blossoms Gallery

Plum Blossoms Gallery — Recognized for its exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection of museum-quality ancient textiles, Plum Blossoms is an established platform for the promotion of both ancient and modern arts. 14/F, Cheung Tak Building, 30 Heung Yip Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2521-2189.

Oi Ling Antiques — Oi Ling&39;s Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items dating as far back as the Neolithic era. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2964-0554.

Hong Kong Museum of Art — One of the city's largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042.

MUseums

Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence — Don't let the name put you off, this is a great little museum. Set in a 19th-century British fort with spectacular views of the Lei Yue Mun channel, it features the original restored batteries and camouflaged cannons under a new tented canopy. The museum also houses artifacts and costumes from Hong Kong's military past. A gentle trail leads to the sea, giving a sense of how the British patrolled for pirates and other enemies of the colony. Closed Thursdays 175 Tung Hei Rd., Shau Kei Wan, 2569-1500.

Flagstaff House Museum of Teaware — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-in-chief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It's also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Hong Kong Park, 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2869-0690.

Hong Kong Museum of History — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. But it's the reconstruction of a post-war street, complete with tram and traveling Chinese opera company, that really grabs the attention 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042.

White Cube

White Cube — One of the world's top contemporary galleries opened its first non-UK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials—for instance, Damien Hirst's famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. 50 Connaught Rd., Central, 2592-2000.

Antiques Arch Angel Antiques — The three-story shop houses large collections of Qing dynasty porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic stone and bronze sculptures and buddhas, and terracotta 18 W H E R E HONG KONG I o c t o b e r 2 014

Hong Kong Maritime Museum — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong&39;s growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier No. 8, Man Kwong St., Central, 3713-2500.

Hong Kong Film Archive

Hong Kong Film Archive — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Thursdays. 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139. Hong Kong Heritage Museum — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city's historical, art and cultural heritage. Permanent exhibitions on the New Territories

Hong Kong Science Museum — Great for kids, thanks to about 500 permanent exhibits that explore all aspects of science and technology, including robotics, virtual reality and transportation. Best of all, about 70 percent of the displays are interactive, meaning the little ones can play with them. A popular feature is the 20-meter-high energy machine. Closed Thursdays. 2 Science Museum Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2732-3232. Hong Kong Space Museum — Explore the final frontier at the Space Museum and learn

Art+culture

all about astronomy and space technology. One of the largest planetariums in the world features daily Omnimax screenings and Sky shows. Closed Tuesdays. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0226. Law Uk Folk Museum — Law Uk, which means 'Law's House' after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. Free admission. Closed Thursdays. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006. Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, the Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum is one of the city's most fascinating monuments. Closed Thursdays. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863. Madame Tussauds Hong Kong — The local branch of the world-famous Madame Tussauds wax museum encourages visitors to touch and pose with the figures. Local celebrities include Jackie Chan, Andy Lau and Michelle Yeoh. Also, where else in the Fragrant Harbor can you pose with Lady Gaga, Barack Obama and Yao Ming. Shop P101, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-6966.

Hong Kong Museum Of Medical Sciences

Museum of Medical Sciences — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both Western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Closed Mondays. 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels, 2549-5123. Police Museum — This interesting little museum has more than 600 artifacts relating to the Hong Kong Police, from the force's inception in 1844 to today. It's split into four sections including a gallery devoted to triad societies, the equivalent of gangs. Closed on public holidays. 27 Coombe Rd., The Peak, 2849-7019. Sam Tung Uk Museum — Offering a fascinating insight into Hong Kong's past, Sam Tung Uk ('three rows of dwelling') is a restored 200-year-old walled village. The 2,000-square-meter museum includes an ancestral hall, two rows of side houses, an exhibition hall and a lecture hall. It contains displays of period furniture, handicrafts and agricultural equipment. Closed Tuesdays. 2 Kwu Uk Lane, Tsuen Wan, 2411-2001. O c t o b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 19

dining | The Guide

Breaking Bread Sarnie specialist Sam Hui hunts down the best sandwiches in town.

San Hang Yuen

Main St. Deli

No Main, No Gain

Urban Bakery

A towering sandwich that wouldn’t look out of place in a cartoon, the Main St. Deli’s Reuben ($168) is a delicious paradox: From the crusty, grilled rye bread, to the creamy Russian dressing, it beckons you to eat every last crumb, but the sandwich’s unruly height and breadth make it impossible to attack, let alone finish. Polishing off the Reuben may be an unattainable feat, but eat what you can of the corned beef, pastrami, turkey, Swiss cheese, and sauerkraut combo, plus the moreish fries that come on the side. Pair it with a vanilla shake for the ultimate waistline challenge. Lower Lobby, The Langham, 8 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2132-7898.

So Hangry

Urban Bakery

20 W H E R E HONG KONG I O c t o b e r 2 014

Next time you’re in Sham Shui Po, make time to search through the market stalls of Kweilin Street for 24-hour San Hang Yuen (新香園(堅記)). The local diner’s signature sarnie isn’t the most appetizing-

Joël Robuchon

sounding dish but they sacrifice pretense for good old-fashioned, grease-smothered flavor. It’s pretty simple—egg, luncheon meat, bread—but it’s a game-changer. Best of all, these uniquely Hong Kong sandwiches cost a mere $16—less than a cup of coffee. 38 Kweilin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2748.

Baker’s Best A non-pretentious high-concept bakery? You heard that right. Inspired by London’s Borough Market, Urban Bakery Works offers up a twist on European street food with gourmet sandwiches in a casual environment. Our favorites? The duck confit wrap ($48) and the langoustine “Croissandwich” ($50). But the grilled chicken ciabatta with guacamole also deserves a nod—the ciabatta is charred to perfection and the guacamole is rich with a pleasant note of coriander. Room 322, 3/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3565-4320.

dining

This Just In Enjoy a ramen burger or a burrito bowl at these two new restaurants. By Adele Wong

Joyeux Joël Decadence is the order of the day at the Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon. Le Viennois Parmesan et Homard ($138) sandwich is not your quotidien lunch— but it’s perfect for one of those days where you really just want to splurge. Picture a Maine lobster doused in a rich chili mayonnaise, topped with thin slices of apple, radish and mango and finished off with basil sprouts and red onion marmalade—all served on top of a soft baguette. Perhaps eat this one with a knife and fork. Looking for a great deal? Try the ham and gruyère sandwich ($68) from their Landmark branch. Several locations, including: Shop 2045A, 2/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2234-7422.

Sunday Funday Liquor shop-slash-delicatessen-slashcookware store Sunday’s Grocery makes it look easy. With a selection of creatively crafted sandwiches, a whole host of Japanese beers, spirits you’ve never heard of and creative side dishes, this new spot does it all—and manages to do it all well. The handful of sandwiches on the menu are all the same price ($80), and they’re all tasty in their own right—but we’re partial to the chicken schnitzel and the Katsu Sando, the latter of which is loaded with deep-fried chicken, green cabbage slaw, Sriracha sauce and pickled goodness.

California Dreamin’ Burrito house Cali-Mex (71 Wellington St., Central, 2325-3005) will go from obscure name to ubiquitous brand in the coming weeks, as four of its shops more or less simultaneously open across the island, from Central all the way to Quarry Bay. Cali-Mex is a Kiwi/Aussie import, started by two guys who fell in love with California-style Mexican dishes while on a road trip across the Americas. The main draw here is the use of fresh ingredients and homemade sauces, resulting in generally lighter dishes.

66-68 Catchick St., Kennedy Town, 2628-6001.

Take It to the Streets

Sunday’s Grocery

Street food for hipsters is what Street Meat (50 Wyndham St., Central) is all about. The tiny space seats only 12 per at a time, but has a hidden bar at the back of the room for hungry diners to lounge around while waiting for their seats. Its interior and exterior are modeled after Prince Street Station in NYC, but is 1,000 times cleaner. Lobster rolls, ramen burgers, grilled corn and ox tongue salads are part of the menu.

Sunday’s Grocery o c t o b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 21

dining | The Guide Admiralty

Tott’s — Modern Asian/Western. $$$-$$$$ Sophisticated décor, harbor-view seats, and perfectly crafted entrees are the hallmark here. The attentive service also deserves special mention. 34/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., 2837-6786.

Central, Lan Kwai Fong & Soho AMMO

Ammo — Western. $$$ Tapas and pastas can be had at this posh Asia Society eatery housed in a former British army magazine compound. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2537-9888. METROPOL — Dim sum. $ Beef balls, steamed shrimp dumplings, pork-and-shrimp dumplings, stuffed rice rolls and other Hong Kong specialties are wheeled around in traditional trolleys for an authentic dim sum experience. 4/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty, 2865-1988. NICHOLINI’S — Italian. $$$$ This restaurant gets kudos from honest-to-goodness Italians, and that’s good enough for us. 8/F, Conrad International Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2521-3838. PETRUS — French. $$$$ This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The décor is a bit ostentatious, but the opulence suits the magnificent view. 56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2820-8590.

Causeway Bay Hooray — Italian. $$ Al fresco drinks and dining in a casual setting complete with a magnificent harbor view. Shop P502, 5/F, World Trade Center, 280 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2895-0885. IPPUDO — Ramen. $ Japan’s famous chain serves ramen in bowls so enormous they should be called cauldrons, with a meaty, savory broth, tender pork pieces, springy noodles and tangy spring onions topped with fungus and bean sprouts. 2/F, 8 Russell St., 2892-2387. MANGO TREE — Thai. $$-$$$ Somehow, in the middle of bustling Causeway Bay, in a high-rise chock-full of other restaurants and bars, Mango Tree manages to be an oasis of dim lighting, carefully placed flowers and good Thai food. 5/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-0828. PENTHOUSE by Harlan Goldstein— Western. $$$$ Enjoy dishes by celebrity chef Harlan Goldstein in this spacious resto that comes with alfresco terrace. 30/F, Midtown, 1 Tang Lung St., Causeway Bay, 2970-0828. Sorabol — Korean. $$ The smell wafting from the open barbecues in the middle of each table will get your appetite going— which is a good thing, since you’ll want to try everything. 18/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival St., 2881-6823. 22 W H E R E HONG KONG I O c t o b e r 2 014

ABerdeen Street Social — Modern British. $$$-$$$$ British chef Jason Atherton heads this beautiful two-story establishment consisting of a fine-diner upstairs and a casual cafe on the ground floor. G/F, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2866-0300. AMBER — Modern French. $$$$ Modern, inventive French cuisine meets attentiongrabbing decor. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066. Brickhouse — Mexican. $$. Imagine street-side Mexican combined with hipster-chic décor and upbeat music. Phone reservations not allowed and queues form quickly at peak hours so early arrival recommended. G/F, 20A D’Aguilar St., 2810-0560.

Ho Lee Fook — Chinese fusion. $$$ Chinese dishes are given a cheeky spin at this resto headed by Australian-Chinese chef Jowett Yu. G/F, 1-5 Elgin St., Central, 2810-0860. INAGIKU — Japanese. $$$ The Hong Kong branch of one of Japan’s oldest and bestknown restaurants, it lives up to the buzz: authentic, delicious and quiveringly fresh. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 2805-0600. ISOLA BAR & GRILL — Italian. $$$$ The glam factor is off the scale, with stunning harbor views and high ceilings, not to mention handmade pastas, pizzas, risottos and more. Shop 3071-75, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., 2383-8765. JASHAN — Indian. $$ Immediately impressive, with dim lighting, vermilion walls and colonial furnishings, Jashan offers an extensive menu, delicious food and hotel-level service. 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., 3105-5300.

Boqueria — Spanish. $$$ Feast on tasty tapas and bomba rice paellas at this chain from New York. 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2321-8681. CAPRICE — French. $$$$ Three Michelin Stars. Splurge on haute cuisine at this French restaurant helmed by chef Fabrice Vulin. The gorgeous interior includes floor-to-ceiling windows. 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8860. CHINA Tang — Chinese. $$$$ Sir David Tang’s latest Chinese fine-dine offers top delicacies from Beijing, Sichuan and Guangdong in a luxurious setting. Shop 411-413, 4/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2522-2148.

L’Atelier De Joel Robuchon

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON — French. $$$$ The Frenchman named “Chef of the Century” by Gault Millau designs authentic dishes with exquisite finesse and precision, which are then turned out by highly trained chefs in the open kitchen. Shop 315 & 401, 3-4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2166-9000. LIN HEUNG Lau— Cantonese. $$ The setup has changed little in more than 50 years and it still remains a popular hangout for those craving a bit of old Hong Kong nostalgia and really, really good food. Most people come here for daytime dim sum, but dinner’s great too. 160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556.

Duddell’s

Duddell’s — Cantonese. $$$. Serves Chinese fusion by former T’ang Court chef Siu Hin-chi. The art pieces on display are another highlight. Levels 3 & 4, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., 2525-9191. Fatty Crab — Southeast Asian. $$$. A branch of the popular Fatty Crab Restaurant in New York. Expect a delectable mix of South-East Asian flavors. 11-13 Old Bailey St., 2521-2033.

Lung King Heen

LUNG KING HEEN — Cantonese. $$$-$$$$ Three Michelin Stars. The name means “view of the dragon” and the floor-to-ceiling windows

dining

make the case. Stylish décor, flawless service and traditional as well as innovative dishes only add to the appeal. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8880.

Mott 32

Mott 32 — Chinese. $$$$ This dark and moody basement restaurant offers Peking duck and other classic Chinese dishes. B/F, Standard Chartered Bank Building, 4-4A Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2885-8688. pierre — French. $$$$ Masterminded by three-Michelin-star chef Pierre Gagnaire, this is a bastion of fine French dining. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4001. POSTO PUBBLICO — American Italian. $$$ Hip Greenwich Village types come to get their fill of such dishes as veal meatballs and sandwiches of homemade mozzarella, eggplant and lashings of balsamic vinegar. G/F, 28 Elgin St., 2577-7160. SEVVA — Contemporary. $$$$ The brainchild of local socialite Bonnie Gokson, this 22,000-square-foot penthouse restaurant comes with a buzzing wraparound terrace. The elegant eatery serves dishes drawn from Cantonese, Shanghainese, Indian and British culinary concepts. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., 2537-1388.

Yardbird

YARDBIRD — Yakitori. $$$ This is a no-frills yet achingly modern two-story yakitori joint in a trendy corner of the district. The skewers are mostly chicken-based, and taken from every part of the chicken’s body from the heart to the skin. Don’t forget to sample the house sake. 33-35 Bridges St., 2547-9273. ZUMA — Japanese. $$$$ This is one goodlooking restaurant, split over two floors and linked by a sumptuous staircase. It’s the local branch of London’s famed eatery,offering a sophisticated twist on the traditional izakaya. 5-6/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3657-6388. o c t o b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 23

dining | The Guide The Peak THE PEAK LOOKOUT — International. $$$ Offering an alfresco terrace with a view, this restaurant features an open, bright and airy environment—more like a mountain lodge than a country club—and excellent fare. 121 Peak Rd., 2849-1000.

Repulse Bay SPICES — Pan-Asian. $$$ Below a glassy high-rise, this restaurant is devoted to showcasing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East.” It also offers a fantastic view of the South China Sea and the sandy shores below. G/F, The Arcade, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2821.

HUTONG — Northern Chinese. $$$$ Dark wood furnishings and a fabulous harbor view make for a modern-day Chinese dining hall. The food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., 3428-8342.

dishes like camphor-smoked duck with pancakes. Also known for its interior full of fabulous chinoiserie. 6/F, The Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, 3 Canton Rd., 2376-3322.

Wan Chai

MORTON’S OF CHICAGO — Steak. $$$$ With huge slabs of prime, aged beef accompanied by what looks like the winning entries in a hard-fought vegetable show, Morton’s is one of the best steak restaurants in Hong Kong. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., 2732-2343.

Bo Innovation

THE VERANDAH — Continental/International. $$$ Book brunch in time to get a seat at this popular spot. On other days, the a la carte menu never disappoints. Closed Mon. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2822.

BO INNOVATION — Chinese. $$$-$$$$ Experimental cuisine pairing local ingredients with delicacies imported from across the world. Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., 2850-8371.

Tsim Sha Tsui Nobu

NOBU — Japanese. $$$$ Mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution, this famous restaurant deserves the hype. Sushi is a must, as is the amazing black cod. 2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323.

Angelini

ANGELINI — Italian. $$$-$$$$ With Italian native Marco Medaglia at the helm, Angelini serves up unpretentious food, with an emphasis on ingredients air-freighted from Italy three times a week. Also has a great harbor view. Mezzanine, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., 2733-8750.

Ruth’s Chris — Steak. $$$$ American steakhouse, with USDA Prime cuts served alongisde rich sides like spinach au gratin and tempura onion rings. Shop 108-110, 1/F, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2366-6000.

Spoon

SPOON — French. $$$$ Chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows, a fabulous harbor view and an innovative modern menu. Lobby, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323. T’ANG COURT — Cantonese. $$$$ This little gem serves some of the city’s finest Cantonese cuisine. 1/F, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., 2132-7898.

FOOK LAM MOON — Cantonese. $$$$ Devotees swear this place serves the best Cantonese cuisine in the world. It’s been the place to go for southern Chinese delicacies for more than five decades. 53-59 Kimberley Rd., 2366-0286. 24 W H E R E HONG KONG I O c t o b e r 2 014

Catalunya — Spanish. $$$$This 7,500 square feet of restaurant and bar space offers Catalan-style dishes such as roasted suckling pig and lobster rice. G/F, Guardian House, 32 Oi Kwan Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-7900. MADAM SIXTY Ate — European. $$$ At this posh eclectic eatery, an open kitchen faces the diners, with chefs readying exquisitely prepared dishes scurrying around. Shop 8, 1/F, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-2558.

FELIX — Fusion. $$$$ Still one of the swankiest restaurants in town, with Philippe Starck décor, modern food and famous bathrooms. It’s glam, contemporary and kid-free. 28/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, 2696-6778.

Fook Lam Moon

Catalunya

Whisk — Modern European. $$$ Whisk is known for its contemporary European dishes and extensive wine list that is relatively more affordable than other fine diners. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., 2368-1111. YE SHANGHAI — Shanghainese. $$$ With upscale cuisine served in shareable portions, this is the place for Shanghainese

THE PAWN — British. $$$ Serving fabulous food in a faithful restoration of an 1888 landmark building, The Pawn houses a bar and a restaurant with a roof and a breezy balcony overlooking Johnston Road. The menu has modern British fare with a luxurious twist. 2/F, 62 Johnston Rd., 2866-3444. WOOLOOMOOLOO — Australian/New Zealand. $$$ This steakhouse is several places at once: a laid-back wine bar and a casual drinks terrace on the rooftop, and a fine -dining steakhouse below. 31/F-Rooftop, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960.

Price Guide $ Less than $200 $$ $200-$399 $$$ $400-$599

$$$$ $600-$799 $$$$$ $800 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course and dessert. Prices do not include bottles of wine unless stated.

Drinks | The Guide

Cool Chemistry New concept bar/resto, Alchemy, livens up quiet Arbuthnot Road in Central. By Andrea Lo The drinks: Somehow, the Alchemists have managed to make the Buddha’s Tears ($120) cocktail taste just like a Thai curry. It’s made with Absolut vanilla vodka, lime juice, coconut sugar, kaffir lime leaf, egg white and, of course, Thai chili. If spicy cocktails aren’t your thing, go for the refreshing Mascarade ($120), made with Chivas Regal 12-year-old, Chambord liqueur, strawberries, lemon juice, fresh mint and gomme syrup. Otherwise, there are 10 varieties of mojitos on offer, and plenty of wines.

The buzz: Despite sitting just above party-central Wyndham Street in Lan Kwai Fong, Arbuthnot Road is, more often than not, rather quiet (it might have something to do with that set of steps no one wants to walk up). But this is all changing thanks to the opening of a couple of new outlets on the road, including cocktail lounge cum dine-inthe-dark restaurant Alchemy.

121BC — 121BC is a wine lover’s heaven. Enjoy top-of-the-range wines sourced from Italy paired with a rustic Italian menu, at 121BC. 42-44 Peel St., Central, 2395-0200. Amazake — Amazake is sandwiched between three of Hong Kong’s biggest clubs: Play, Levels, and Dizzi. Amazake is bright and pumping with energy, a place for large groups to pre-game before hitting the clubs next door. G/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, 2537-7787.

The décor: Whimsical notes at every turn. You’ll find a comfortable lounge (complete with inviting cushions) conveniently right next to the bar, which is stocked with scientific-looking glassware. Looking for an intimate setting? Grab a seat at one of the tables at the far end of the lounge, facing a large bay window boasting a green vista.

recipes by heart. This nightspot is exclusive, fitting only 18 people and allowing groups with a maximum of five people. 5/F, Mody House, 30 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-3828. Common Room — Common Room is a spacious gastropub that serves international tapas dishes and mixologist-crafted cocktails right off LKF’s main drag. 1/F, Wo On Building, 8-13 Wo On Lane, Central, 2525-3599.

Aqua Spirit — Sky-high lounge bar Aqua Spirit redefines the notion of having a sophisticated drink with friends. Quoted as one of the best bars in Hong Kong, Aqua has stunning harbor and city views. 29-30/F, Penthouse, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. Boujis — Taking cue from its celeb-endorsed model in London, Boujis establishes an Asian branch in Hong Kong. The moody space comes alive at night with house, electro and similarly buzzing sounds. 37 Pottinger St., Central, 2324-0200. Butler — Masayuki Uchida, the half-Cantonese, half-Japanese owner of this posh, all-wooden Japanese bar, allegedly knows 2,000 cocktail

Craft Brew & Co

Craft Brew & Co — Unlike other beer joints, you won’t find a single mass-produced beer here. There are brews from the likes of Anderson Valley, Anchor and Mountain Goat—and of course, local brewery Young Master Ales, which seems to be everywhere

Why you’ll be back: Alchemy is the perfect antidote to the crowds on Wyndham Street. In addition to the lounge bar, the venue also boasts a dining-in-the-dark experience in the basement. The concept is nothing new, but now’s your chance to give it a go. Prefer to eat in the light? Seafood dishes are served in the lounge, as well as the likes of chargrilled wagyu beef and crispy pork belly. Aclchemy, G-LG/F, 16 Arbuthnot Rd., Central, 6821-2801.

these days. Craft Brew also serves gourmet grilled sausages, made with some unusual ingredients. G/F, 17 Old Bailey St., Central, 2885-0821. Fu Lu Shou — Hongkongers love a good rooftop bar, so it’s no surprise that the super-hip Fu Lu Shou is already all the rage—despite only officially opening its doors earlier this month. Meaning ‘happiness, prosperity and longevity,’ Fu Lu Shou offers up cool surrounds and interesting concoctions. Not only do the innovative cocktails have a strong local flavor, but you’ll also find western-style Chinatown favorites on the menu. 7/F, 31 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2336-8812. Grappa’s Cellar — This busy after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians. B/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322. Guay — The Spanish invasion of the Hong Kong bar scene is still underway, and Guay is the latest to join the fray. This Tai Hang joint is situated off the main street in the midst of the auto repair shops. Yes, it’s in a hip neighborhood, but its relatively hidden location makes it a laid-back, cool spot to grab a drink or

For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at bars, restaurants and coffee shops).

26 W H E R E HONG KONG I o c t o b e r 2 014

Drinks two, without the extortionate prices often found in town. 9A Sun Chun St., Tai Hang, 2618-8782.

Tapagria — If you’re looking for tapas and sangria with a view, look no further than Tapagria, situated on the high floors of The One shopping mall. Enjoy one of the 65 sangria concoctions, alongside dishes like paella and croquettes. 18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2147-0111.

Ham & Sherry — Patterned floor-to-ceiling Azulejo tiles in sharp blue and white are the first things that catch your eye at this modestly sized venue. In case it’s not obvious, sherry is the drink of choice here. G/F, 2555-0628, 1-7 Ship St., Wan Chai, 2555-0628. Havana — This Cuban-themed bar on D’Aguilar Street serves up Caribbean classics like daiquiris, mojitos and drinks with all different sorts of rum. Awesome terrace available for some serious outdoor chilling. 4/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2851-4880. Lily and Bloom — A-list celebs have been seen here, with VIPs being buzzed in and out of their fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. Expect swarms of glitterati and the party elite. The aesthetes amongst you will be delighted at the thought that so much attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166. Lion Rock Bar — Lion Rock is the place to unwind and relax while sampling one of the bar’s signature cocktails. Enjoy the awesome view at their weekly wine and whisky tastings, and recharge with their sushi and all-day dining services. 3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel, 193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Mong Kok, 2622-6167. Mavericks — If the craft beers, the threeslider platter (ahi tuna; buffalo chicken with blue cheese; wagyu beef), or the beachfront view aren’t enough, then there’s the fact that Mavericks gives you the best seats in the house to watch the sun set on a perfect beachfront day. Pui O Beach (next to Pui O campsite), South Lantau Rd., Lantau Island, 5402-4154. Origin — The name is a bit of a giveaway—gin is high up on the menu here. With famed mixologist Antonio Lai at the helm, Origin serves up a delectable selection of every single kind of gin you can think of—and then a few more for good measure. G/F, 48 Wyndham St., Central, 2668-5583. Ozone — Located 118 floors above the ground, this bar boasts the title of the highest bar in Hong Kong. With an extensive—and expensive—menu of bubbly bottles and cocktails, this bar is a must-see, mainly because of its sky-high, drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2263. Peak Bar — The name’s a little confusing, but this is a cozy, laid-back spot with fab peoplewatching right on the Mid-Levels Escalator. 9-13 Shelley St., Central, 2140-6877. Play — Head to the lounge room, equipped with two standard pool tables, for happy hour drink specials and exceedingly tasty bar snacks with friends, or head to the dance floor and shake your body to the beats. 1/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, 2525-1318. Quinary — This chic hangout off of Hollywood Road serves some awesome cocktails by molecular mixologist Antonio Lai. The Earl Grey caviar martini and the oolong tea Collins are both highly recommended. 56-58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-3223.

Red Bar

Red Bar — Great for alfresco drinks, this is a popular spot with suits and gym bunnies, who hustle over for a low-cal meal and a sinful cocktail or three. One of the largest terraces in town, with an awesome view. 4/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882.

The Globe — The homey 3,500-square-foot pub has a massive bar area, a dining area, a lounge and booths, keeping an old-school aesthetic with brand-new wooden furniture. Boasting extensive beer offerings and a lively vibe, there’s also a wide selection of board games and books to wile away the hours. G/F, Garley Building, 45-53 Graham St., Central, 2543-1941.

Rockabilly — Head up LKF and you’ll be sure to catch Rockabilly’s loud, red neon logo and cheeky signs. Inspired by tattoo parlors and vintage car repair shops, the 1950s Americana joint has two floors: a narrow ground floor with a bar, and a roomier upstairs complete with a Juliet balcony that’s great for late-night people-watching. 12 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2869-0099. Salon de Ning — A stylishly ostentatious bar lounge inspired by the opulent private residences of 1930s Shanghai celebutante Madame Ning. This is retroluxe at its finest, with four fabulous themed rooms surrounding the main Art Deco lounge. Best savored with a Ning Sling. B/F, The Peninsula Hong Kong, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6705. Sevva — A spacious alfresco terrace surrounds super-stylish restaurant and lounge Sevva, offering unique, panoramic views over Hong Kong. A perfect place to watch the Symphony of Lights. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-1388. Shore — A swanky submarine-themed bar with one of the most extensive drinks selection in town. Cocktail lovers can go for a “Surprise Me”—choose an ingredient and have the bartender create a unique 10-minute martini, made from fresh fruits and herbs. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, Central, 2915-1638.

The Lawn

The Lawn — This outdoor garden illuminated entirely by a few candles is a genuine urban oasis with a serene, intimate vibe. Lounge atop the tastefully arranged beanbags and comfortable couches. 6/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. The Tonno — Multi-faceted complex The Tonno features a bar, clubbing zone, restaurant, live music lounge, VIP party enclaves and karaoke rooms—in short, it takes “all-around entertainment” to a whole new level. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888. The Woods — This basement bar is decked out in nature-inspired decor—hence the name— and shakes up creative and painstakingly crafted cocktails. L/G, 17 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2522-0281.

Show Club — Expect the kind of bottle-poppin’, booty-droppin’ action normally seen in rap videos come to life at this late-night club on the corner of Wyndham, right in the center of the action. G-1/F, 29 Wyndham St., Central, 2656-9338.

Tipping Point Brewing Co — Craft beer hangout Tipping Point serves IPAs, stouts and wheat beers instead of standard commercial varieties. The bar is the brainchild of chef and restaurateur Que Vinh Dang. 29 Wyndham St., Central, 2868-2892.

Stockton — An apparent imitation of the turn-of-the-20th century decadent gentlemen’s club, Stockton is hidden in a poorly lit alleyway of Wyndham Street. Once inside, the bar transforms into a posh and glamorous space, decorated with elaborate furniture and antiques, perfect for intimate and romantic nights-out. G/F, 32 Wyndham St., Central, 2565-5268.

Volar — Strictly speaking, basement club Volar is members-only, but you might get lucky. It’s worth the effort as this is one of the most happening spots in Central, with frequent appearances by top international DJs. The space is split into a club area, with state-ofthe-art sound and lighting systems, and a more chilled-out lounge. B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510.

Sugar — Located on the 32nd floor, with an outdoor deck area some 300 feet above Victoria Harbour, this is the perfect place for patrons to soak up the stunning skyline and sea views Hong Kong has to offer. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Quarry Bay, 3968-3738.

Volume H.E.A.T — This chill tapas bar serves some of the cheapest drinks in our metropolis to a mostly gay clientele—it’s two for one on most drinks during happy hour (noon-9pm). L/G, 83-85 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2857-7683. o c t o b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 27

ShopS+Services | The Guide Shopping Centers

Home Turf

APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 3148-1200.

Support these Hong Kong designers and their beautiful products. By Katie Kenny

Elements

Watch, $1,511, Squarestreet

ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous roof garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234.

Tote, $1,690, Mischa x Kapok @ Kapok

HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8666.

Duffle, $1,600, Squarestreet

Small clutch, $4,611, Kotur @ Harvey Nichols

Shirt dress, $1,750, Alex Black @ Kapok Hysan Place

S.Nine by Susanna Soo

S.Nine by Susanna Soo Unit S505, 5/F, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2815-0884, snineonline.com. Kapok G/F, HG10-12, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2858-8170. Squarestreet G/F, 15 Square St., Sheung Wan, 2362-1086. Harvey Nichols Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-2668.

HYSAN PLACE — This mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of high-quality dining options. 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222.

IFC Mall

IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international highend brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308. HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089.

Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.

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ShopS+Services | The Guide Tailors

ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2890-6823.

DAVID FASHIONs — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884.

THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols. 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3428-8086. LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mongkok, 3520-2800, www.langhamplace.com.hk.

L & K bespoke Tailor — G/F, Mirador Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278.

Lane Crawford

LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with musthave designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388.

Nita Fashions — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim vSha Tsui. 2721-9990, www.nitafashions.com. Punjab House — 5/F, Suite C, Golden Crown Court, 66-70 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612, www.punjabhouse.com.hk. Raja Fashions — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624, www.raja-fashions.com. REGAL fashion — G/F, Shop 15, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-6007. Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 90-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423. Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1251.

Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place

PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8988. PMQ — Central's beautiful new shopping destination is filled with local designers, lifestyle shops and cute cakeries. 35 Aberdeen St., Central. Rise Commercial Building — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2384-8728. TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 13-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket City’super, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.

Department Stores

Shanghai Tang SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.

JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2810-1120; Shop 232, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944; Shop G106, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2907-2228. 30 W H E R E HONG KONG I o c t o b e r 2 014

CHUAN SPA — This stunning spa focuses on the individual needs of each client through traditional Chinese medicine and theories, including yin and yang. Its consultants are qualified in Chinese medicine, massage and naturopathy. 41/F, Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3510, www.chuanspa.com.

SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338. THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 free-standing boutiques and pointsof-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2175-4228.

Chinese Emporiums

Joyce

SPAS

CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. Shop 220, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2735-4061. YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 301-309 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3511-2222.

Flawless

FLAWLESS — This all-in-one shop offers makeup and nail services as well as spa treatments in a spacious upper-level venue. 4/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2869-5868. IYARA DAY SPA — This Central institution offers everything from manis and pedis to facials, waxing and massage treatments. 1/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2545-8638. MIRASPA — It’s pampering for the 21st century. The Mira Spa is comfortably futuristic, with purple and pure white accents and an indoor pool decorated with twinkling lights. Facilities include a jacuzzi plus steam and sauna rooms—and nifty waterbeds in the pretreatment room. B3/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5500, www.themirahotel.com

ShopS+Services

The Ritz-Carlton Spa

THE RITZ-CARLTON SPA BY ESPA — Get pampered at the highest hotel spa in the world. Located on the 116th floor, this relaxing retreat looms over the city and offers majestic views of Victoria Harbour. Spa guests can also take a dip in the hotel's sky-high infinity pool after their treatments. 116/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 22632040, www.ritzcarlton.com/hongkong. THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS — This urban sanctuary is everything you would expect from the Four Seasons: 22,000 square feet of sumptuousness, including Finnish saunas, an ice fountain, a crystal fountain, vitality pools and an amethyst crystal steam room. Two spa suites include a pool for two, day beds and a private bar. 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8900, www.fourseasons.com/hongkong. TEN FEET TALL — Go to Ten Feet Tall for a slightly different foot massage experience in an exotic ambience. The foot massage center features bright and sunny beach cabanas with pine, bamboo, natural marble and bright décor. The place’s signature treatments include genuine foot reflexology, shoulder and neck massage, pressure point massage and aromatic oil massage. 20-21/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2971-1010, www.tenfeettall.com.hk.

NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT!

NAILS NAIL NAIL — This is the place for innovative nails, including gel nails, airbrushing and the truly decadent one-carat diamond manicure, which is by appointment only. It also offers waxing and temporary tattoos. Shop 1091A, 1/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2366-9322, www.nailnail.com.hk. NAIL SPA — Nail services and treatments for men and women are the specialty here, including French manicures and paraffin foot therapy. Gel and acrylic nails are available along with nail painting, embossed nail art, semi-precious gemstones, crystal embossing and graduated nail painting. 1/F, 8 Pak Sha Rd., Causeway Bay, 2478-9333, www.nailspa.com.hk. THE LOFT — A spin-off of The Nail Library in Sheung Wan, this new Central shop right by the escalators offers men’s barbering services, facials as well as hand and foot spa treatments—and of course, manicures and pedicures. 2/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2618-8623.

Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418

www.outback.com.hk

Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823

Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan

Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai

Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay

Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728

Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918

o c t o b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 31

Navigate | The Guide

Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call the Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions, plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals, as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.

Get Moving

Octopus Cards

Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.

These are “wave-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.

Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English, but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.

The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $48, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.

Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.

32 W H E R E HONG KONG I o c t o b e r 2 014

Navigate | The Guide Buses

New In Town

Hong Kong has two major bus companies:

A local tour and a hotel on the south side of Hong Kong island are two exciting new offers for tourists. By Kate Springer

citybus / New World First BUS — 2136-8888/2873-0818, www.nwstbus.com.hk.

Kowloon Motor Bus — 2745-4466, www.kmb.hk.

Sights & Attractions

Avenue of Stars

You Had Me at Hello Have a blast while learning about this awesome city with a hand from Hello Hong Kong tours. The company, set up earlier this year, offers a slew of creative tours that show visitors a different side of Hong Kong, far from the tourist trail. Whatever your request, founder Laura Blackhall and her team might just be able to set it up for you. Some of the most popular local tours include the half-day food crawl ($650), which starts in Sheung Wan and makes

its way over to Wan Chai, one delicious stop at a time. Laura can also arrange private tours on trams, or boat trips— including a cruise on the 47-foot Local Hero sailboat. Get a group together and take a private sail around the south side of Hong Kong island, with drinks and some tour guiding along the way (from $8,500 for three hours). Best of all, you get to do all the sailing yourself, if you want to. 9704-4108, www.hellohongkong.com.hk.

Southern Hospitality New-to-town Ovolo Southside opened its artsy doors this summer, acting as a great base for exploring the burgeoning Wong Chuk Hang area. The hotel has all the usual Ovolo hospitality: a free minibar and happyhour, plus all-day coffee and snacks. But what’s extra cool about this new space is the convertedwarehouse design, hand-painted murals, and the green views. I also have to tip my hat to head chef Kris Bandel at

34 W H E R E HONG KONG I o c t o b e r 2 014

Cirqle: Yeah, the resto is a bit out of the way for your casual Friday-night dinner, but I highly recommend the crab cakes and the Key Lime Pie—it's not every day you see one of these on a Hong Kong menu. Plus, the big terrace is ideal for cooler nights, as is the upstairs rooftop bar. Staycation material, indeed. Rooms from $1,395. 64 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2165-1000.

Avenue of Stars — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes' hand and footprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars, as well as a statue of Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly musicand-laser extravaganza called the 'Symphony of Lights.' Music only plays over the loudspeakers here, although the harborfront light display can be seen from around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, Tsim Sha Tsui.

Big Buddha

Big Buddha — Situated beside Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island is the Big Buddha-the largest seated outdoor bronze Buddha in the world. The statue is set amid mountains and hiking trails, and is most impressive seen while in the cable car from Tung Chung. Nearby is 'The Wisdom Path,' lined with wood carvings featuring the calligraphy from an important text for Confucians, Buddhists and Taoists. The vegetarian restaurant within the monastery is the best option if you're famished. Ngong Ping Village, Lantau Island, 2985-5248. Cheung Sha Beach — Catch a ferry from Central Pier 6 to Mui Wo, then take Bus 1, 2 or 4 to Cheung Sha. Stretching for three glorious kilometers along Lantau's south coast, Cheung Sha is Hong Kong's longest beach. With silky soft sand and the towering Sunset Peak as a backdrop, it's an island paradise. Lantau Island. Chi Lin Nunnery — An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It's a 33,000-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1998. It's centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds, and a stroll through the gardens makes for a bucolic escape. Vegetarian food is available in a quaint teahouse. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888.

Tel: 2730 1251

Navigate | The Guide

Duk Ling Chinese Sailing Junk — Launched in 1955, the Duk Ling is one of the last authentic sailing junks in Hong Kong. It can carry up to 36 passengers. 2573-5282.

Importance thanks to the thousands of migratory wading birds who pass through each autumn and winter. Mai Po Nature Reserve, Yuen Long, 2482-0369

Fa Yuen Street — Heaving with bargain hunters every afternoon, Fa Yuen Street is stuffed with cheap fashion boutiques, factory outlets and accessories stores for men, women and children. Fa Yuen St., Prince Edward. Hong Kong Park — This eight-hectare park has a large walk-through aviary, a conservatory housing unusual and exotic plants, sports and squash centers, a multistory playground, a tai chi garden and a clock tower. In the conservation corner are more than 100 species of dragonfly. Also worth visiting are the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware and the Hong Kong Visual Arts Centre. 19 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2521-5041.

Sam’s The Man (Just ask his customers)

Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon. Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147

Hong Kong Wetland Park — This worldclass ecotourism attraction demonstrates the diversity of Hong Kong's wetlands, and the importance of conservation. It's a 61-hectare site with user-friendly facilities such as a stream walk, succession walk, mangrove boardwalk and bird hides. Wetland Park Rd., Tin Shui Wai, 3152-2666. Jade Market — In Chinese culture, jade is associated with good health and a long life. The jade market stalls sell everything from expensive carved jade to cheap trinkets, as well as pearls and other jewelry of varying quality. Kansu and Bettery St. Ladies' Market — Find dog toys, trinkets and accessories, racy underwear, costume jewelry and more all along this road. Down the side lanes are vintage shops, fashion outlets and the occasional restaurant. Tung Choi St., Mong Kok. Yau Ma Tei MTR, Exit A2. Open daily noon-11:30pm.

This could be yours in

HONG KONG For Advertising rates and further information. Call 2850 5678 36 W H E R E HONG KONG I o c t o b e r 2 014

Man Mo Temple

Man Mo Temple — This atmospheric temple must be one of the most photographed in Hong Kong. Great incense spirals dangle from the rafters, filling the roof space with aromatic smoke and lending a deep patina to the statues of gods Man Cheong (god of literature) and Kuan Ti (god of martial arts, or Mo) on the altars. 126 Hollywood Rd., near Ladder Street, Sheung Wan.

Ngong Ping 360

Ngong Ping 360 — This cultural-themed village features dining, retail and entertainment attractions such as Walking with Buddha, Monkey's Tale Theatre and the Ngong Ping Garden Restaurant. The cable car offers panoramic views as it passes over North Lantau Country Park to the Big Buddha. 111 Ngong Ping Rd., Lantau Island, 3666-0606. Ocean Park — Get up close and personal with a dolphin or a panda, walk through a shark tank, dive into a coral reef or whirl upside down on a roller coaster. Located near Aberdeen, Ocean Park manages to amuse and educate with its marine and bird life exhibits, giant panda enclosure, wild headland rides, and a cable car trip between the park's two parts. 180 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 2552-0291.

Lan Kwai Fong

Lan Kwai Fong — Thankfully closed to cars most of the time, these thoroughfares are jam-packed full of bars and nightclubs, with revelers spilling out into the streets at all hours. Attracting yuppies and visitors like moths to a flame, a good night out in Lan Kwai Fong is almost guaranteed. Lan Kwai Fong, near D'Aguilar Street, Central. Mai Po Marshes — Who knew that Hong Kong was a bird-watchers' paradise The 1,500-hectare Mai Po Marshes reserve is run by the World Wildlife Fund and is a designated Wetland of International

Peak Tram

Peak Tram — There was a time when the best way up the Peak was by sedan chair-a grueling experience, particularly for the bearers. So the arrival of the Peak Tram was a blessing, one for which we are still thankful. The little funicular railway is one of the best trips in town, panting up Hong Kong Island's tallest mountain at a seemingly impossible angle that enchants all aboard. Sit on the right for the best views. St. Joseph's Building, Central, 2522-0922.

Navigate

Shek O — Take Bus 9 from the Shau Kei Wan MTR station.A wide beach on the eastern shores of Hong Kong Island, separated from the city by a twisting, 40-minute drive. Shek O is a laid-back haven popular with surfers, who kick back here after riding the waves at nearby Big Wave Bay. Sha Tin Racecourse — Join the screaming hordes at Happy Valley and Sha Tin racecourses for a few adrenalin-fueled hours. Mingle with the masses in the stands, or opt for the more refined atmosphere in the boxes. The season runs September to mid-June, with about 700 races a year held an average of twice a week. The Hong Kong Jockey Club is nonprofit-making, donating over HK$1 billion a year to local charities. Stanley — The seaside township of Stanley has a market, shops, restaurants and bars that line a bay on one side and a beach on the other. It's the perfect place to take a walk along the waterfront, chill at an alfresco resto and pick up some souvenirs. Stanley Main St., Stanley. Tai O — It would be wishful thinking to describe this fishing village as a 'Venice of the East,' but there's no doubting the charm of its maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the northwestern coast of Lantau Island. It's a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, trays of smelly shrimp paste, a picturesque Tin Hau Temple at the end of a causeway and a couple of interesting little museums. A boutique hotel and restaurant add a touch of colonial elegance to the traditional town.

Ten Thousand Buddhas

Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800 Buddhas stored in five temples, four pavilions and a nine-story pagoda. The one that you're likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin, 2691-1067. Wong Tai Sin Temple — Named after the deity Wong Tai Sin, this Taoist temple completed its restoration in 1973 and is a popular shrine for local pilgrims who want to glimpse their future via a Chinese practice called kau cim. Lung Cheung Rd., Wong Tai Sin, 2327-8141. O c t o b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 37

Walking Tours | The Guide Enter Kowloon Park through the entrance next to the mosque. Follow the signs to the Hong Kong Heritage Discovery Center.

Discover TST

Hong Kong Heritage Discovery Center

Tsim Sha Tsui (known locally as TST) is home to a variety of historical buildings, fascinating museums, the Hong Kong Cultural Centre, chic restaurants and modern shopping malls. The scenic waterfront promenade also offers some of the best views of Victoria Harbour and the mesmerizing Hong Kong skyline.

Part of what used to be the British army’s Whitfield Barracks, the building that now houses the Hong Kong Heritage Discovery Center was constructed circa 1910 and includes an exhibition gallery, reference library and activity room that are open to the public. Open 10am-6pm, Mon-Sat (closed on Thu); 10am-7pm, Sun and public holidays. Call 2208-4400.

Clock Tower

Leave Jordan MTR station at exit D. After exiting the station, turn left, walk along Nathan Road and turn left onto Hillwood Road.

Hillwood Road This is a hangout favored by locals, with a fun collection of bars and a selection of restaurants serving Asian cuisine. Walk down the steps at the end of Hillwood Road, turn right and walk along Austin Avenue and Kimberley Road. Stay on the right, and then turn right onto Observatory Road. At Knutsford Terrace, turn left.

Knutsford Terrace/ Knutsford Steps Featuring a wide variety of exotic cuisine and several bars, this hotbed of international culinary offerings will have something for every palate.

Knutsford Terrace

Walk along Knutsford Terrace. Turn left and then right along Kimberley Road. Walk to the end of the street and turn right. 38 W H E R E HONG KONG I o c t o b e r 2 014

Former Kowloon British School This architectural gem is the oldest surviving school building constructed for foreign residents of Hong Kong. (The school opened in 1902.) The building is a unique Victorian structure, adapted to the steamy local climate with wide verandahs, high ceilings and a pitched roof. Today, it houses the Antiquities and Monuments Office.

Leave Kowloon Park the same way you entered. Walk along Nathan Road towards the waterfront. Enter the MTR East Tsim Sha Tsui station via exit L3, go through the pedestrian tunnel to exit J and follow the directional signs to the Avenue of Stars.

Avenue of Stars Along this waterfront promenade, you can see plaques, handprints and statues honoring celebrities from the silver screen as well as those behind the camera. Also, enjoy the great harbor views.

St. Andrew’s Church stands next to the former Kowloon British School.

St. Andrew’s Church Imagine early worshippers arriving via the main means of transportation of the day: rickshaws and sedan chairs.

Avenue of Stars

Cross Nathan Road to the Park Lane Shopper’s Boulevard.

Walk back along the promenade to the Hong Kong Museum of Art, the Hong Kong Space Museum and the Hong Kong Cultural Centre.

Park Lane Shopper’s Boulevard

Hong Kong Museum of Art

Bustling with customers day and night, this distinctive shopping mall offers a variety of local and international brand-name stores. Open 10:30am11pm daily.

Discover the beauty of Chinese antiquities, fine art and calligraphy. Open 10am-6pm, Mon-Wed and Fri; 10am-7pm Sat, Sun and public holidays; closed Thu. Call 2721-0116.

Hong Kong Space Museum Learn all about astronomy and space technology. Open 1pm-9pm, Mon, Wed-Fri; 10am-9pm, Sat, Sun and public holidays. Closed Tue. Call 2721-0226.

Hong Kong Cultural Centre Experience classic performing arts of both western and Asian origins. Near the end of the promenade, you’ll see the Clock Tower.

Clock Tower Part of the original Kowloon-Canton Railway terminus, the Clock Tower was completed—and started ticking— in 1921. Cross Salisbury Road to Star House and check out 1881 Heritage/Hullett House on your right.

1881 Heritage/ Hullett House This site was occupied by the Hong Kong’s Royal Marine Police as headquarters from the 1880s till 1996. The building’s unique Victorian architecture is a symbol of its rich colonial background. It now houses a shopping mall, a boutique hotel, restaurants and bars. Harbour City is on the other side of Canton Road.

Harbour City/Canton Road/Peking Road Harbour City is one of the largest shopping and entertainment centers in Hong Kong, with more than 700 shops and restaurants offering local and international fare. Open daily, 10am-10pm. Adjacent to Harbour City, along Canton Road and Peking Road, you’ll find stores from leading brands.

HONG KONG TAKE HONG KONG WITH YOU, EVER YOUR TRAVELS MAY TAKE YOU. Subscribe to WHERE Hong Kong’s eBook edition and have every issue delivered straight to your inbox once monthly. tiny.cc/whk-ebook o c t o b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 39

map of Central ÂŠ OpenStreetMap contributors. See openstreetmap.org

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30 Things we LOve about Hong Kong 2

1 Shopping at Harbour City. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. 2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1604. 3 Slurping oysters for brunch at Café Deco. 1-2/F, The Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-5111. 4 Dining aboard the kitschycool Jumbo Floating Restaurant. Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen, 2553-9111. 5 Spotting endangered white dolphins with Dolphinwatch off Lantau Island, 2984-1414. 6 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 16-24 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. 7 Snaking through the high-rises on the Mid-Levels Escalator—the longest in the world. Cochrane, Shelley and Peel Streets, Central.

8 Riding the cable car 5.7 kilometers over Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Ngong Ping cultural-themed village and the Big Buddha. 9 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach, Lantau Island.

!0 Taking a walk down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defence, 2569-1500. !1 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. Stanley Street, Central. !2 Getting a shave and a trim at the Mandarin Barber. 5 Connaught Rd., Central, 2522-0111. !3 Being fitted for a tailor-made suit. Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. !4 Buying noodles and having our palms read at the Temple Street Night Market, Yau Ma Tei. !5 Sipping on signature cocktails while taking in the spectacular view at Aqua Spirit. 30/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288.

42 W H E R E HONG KONG I o c t o b e r 2 014

!6 Cruising Victoria Harbour on the Duk Ling, an authentic Chinese junk, 2573-5282.

@3 Buying witty chinoiserie at Shanghai Tang. Shanghai Tang Flagship Mansion, 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.

!7 Being entertained by the intriguing performances and exhibitions at the Fringe Club. 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central, 2521-7251.

@4 Taking a walk in Hong Kong Park. 19 Cotton Tree Drive, Central.

!8 Taking one of the oldest rides in Hong Kong—a tram from Western to Causeway Bay. !9 Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei. @0 Dressing up for high tea at The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-3169. @1 Taking the Peak Tram to visit Hong Kong celebrities at Madame Tussauds. Shop P10, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., 2849-6966. @2 Doing some late-night shopping on Sai Yeung Choi Street, Mong Kok.

@5 Snacking on egg tarts at Tai Cheong Bakery. 32 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2554-3475. @6 Saying hi to pandas at Ocean Park. Aberdeen, 3923-2323. @7 Stopping for tea at Fook Ming Tong Tea Shop. Shop 3225, 3/F, The Gateway, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-1077. @8 Spending the afternoon at a mall. Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8900. @9 Marveling at the Symphony of Lights over Victoria Harbour. #0 Checking out the old Kowloon-Canton Railway clocktower. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.

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