WHERE Hong Kong - September 2014 by WHERE Hong Kong

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the complete guide to go

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Hong Kong

Celebrate Mid-Autumn Festival Explore Wan Chai eat at a michelinstarred restaurant

Ready, Set, Fashion Hong Kongâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coolest new designers

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where Hong Kong 9.2014 ®

the guide

06 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events

16 art + culture Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening

20 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town

26 Drinks Our favorite places to sip a cocktail

38 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot

40 Map Central, Hong Kong Island

Also inside 28 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers

features 10 HK Stylebook Get travel tips from the city’s coolest new designers

20 Mooncake Fever Celebrate Mid-Autumn Festival by indulging in delicious mooncakes

34 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info 42 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences

on the cover S E P T E M B E R 2 014

ThE coMPlETE guidE To go

Hong Kong

Celebrate Mid-autuMn Festival explore Wan Chai

eat at a MiChelinstarred restaurant

34 Clothes Call A revitalized building in Central is now home to beautiful boutiques and cool restaurants

Ready, Set, FaShion Hong Kong’s coolest new designers

Designer Grace Choi’s qipao (Chinesestyle dresses) are an elegant take on the classic garment. Check out her designs in our cover story on p.10. Also read on for her and other amazing local designers’ style tips and travel advice.

wheretraveler.com The website from the editors of Where Magazine. Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.

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where

maga z ine

On the web: www.wherehongkong.com HK Magazine Media group HK | ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION General MANAGER & Publisher Greg Crandall director of sales Gary Wong Strategic Sales Director Jan Cheng Associate Advertising Director Joe Ng Senior Sales Manager Joyce Wu Senior Advertising Manager Kent Ma Advertising Manager Dominic Lucien Brettell, Keiko Ko, Rita Ng Assistant Advertising Manager Arena Choi Advertising Executive Harriette Cheung, Lamy Lam, Winnie Cheng Advertising Coordinator Christine So Marketing MANAGER James Gannaban Marketing & Circulation Executive Charmaine Mirandilla Accounts Services Executive Sharon Cheung IT SYSTEMS Manager Derek Wong

HK | EDITORIAL EDITOR-in-chief Zach Hines EDITOR Adele Wong STAFF WRITER Evelyn Lok CONTRIBUTORs Andrea Lo, Cynthia Li, Hazel Kong, Katie Kenny, Zoe Lai, Sam Hui, Melody Kong

HK | PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGER Blackie Hui ART DIRECTOR Pierre Pang Senior graphic designer Mike Hung graphic designer Iris Mak

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS HK | executive PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler Vice president of operations Angela E. Allen Chief Travel Editor Geoff Kohl general manager, where maps Christopher Huber DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION Scott Ferguson NATIONAL MARKETING MANAGER Melissa Blanco

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MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & ceo William S. Morris III PRESident William S. Morris IV

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HONG KONG

Room 302, 3/F, Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Phone: 2850-5065 Fax: 2543-1880 Published by where Hong Kong Publishing Ltd., Printed by Apex Print Limited, 11-13 Dai Kwai Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, Tai Po, New Territories. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications-Where Magazine. ®

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W W W. S E V V A . H K

hot dates Hong Kong By Evelyn Lok

September 8 Fly Me to the Moon This September, it’s time for one of Hong Kong’s most romantic and family-oriented festivities. With a history dating back to the Tang Dynasty, the Mid-Autumn Festival was at first celebrated by making offerings to gods in gratitude for a productive harvest. Today, it’s mostly associated with spending time with loved ones, admiring the moonlight and lantern decorations in this time of year, and sharing traditional foods such as mooncakes and sweet glutinous rice dumplings. Take part in the street festivities in Tai Hang, where the time-honored tradition of a Fire Dragon Dance (said to have warded off the plague in the 19th century) takes place September 7-9.Also check out the multiple lantern displays that are put up in public parks across Hong Kong, with the most extravagant display at Victoria Park. Lantern Carnivals: various locatons, including Tuen Muen Park, Sha Tin Central Park, Victoria Park, Hong Kong Cultural Centre Piazza.

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hot dates September 16-20

La Vie Bohème Pop-up Productions brings an English adaptation of Puccini's “La Bohème“ to the kooky and glamorous House of Siren stage. The original opera was about a group of bohemians living in the Latin Quarter of Paris, but in this revamp, director Natalya Zeman brings the action to contemporary China. The story is about four arts graduates knocking around Beijing and finding love, lust, and death. 8pm. House of Siren, (Entrance on Castle Steps), 64 Robinson Rd., Mid-Levels, 6718-7079. $195-495 from beijingboheme.ticketflap.com

September 24 Onwards

September 12-20

Story Time

Dancing Queen It's been 10 years since the musical “Mamma Mia“ first came to Hong Kong. But they've been going strong ever since, touring all over the US and Europe and even to Shanghai—proving that the feelgood synthy tones of Swedish pop giants ABBA are as timeless astheir sequined jumpsuits. Sep 24-Oct 19, various times. Lyric Theatre, Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd., Wan Chai, 2584-8500. $395-995 from www.hkticketing.com.

Story Worthy Week returns for its second edition this year; the arts festival is firmly rooted in the idea that everyone in Hong Kong has a story to tell. It's featuring a whole host of events, including an appearance by critically acclaimed American funnyman David Sedaris. The “week“ is really a month of storytelling, including the return of Literary Death Match— a seven-minute rapidfire storytelling contest, plus September's Liar's League literary evening at the Fringe Club. Check the full schedule on the website. Various times. See storyworthyweek.com. s e p t e m b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 7

Y Y

hot dates Hong Kong By Evelyn Lok

September 3

September 5-6

September 8

Divas Unite

Battle of the Sexes

Abs Alert

Catch not one, not two, not three, but four of Asia's best divas at the Project WAO concert: Sandy Lam, A-Mei, Tanya Chua, and Na Ying. Following concert success in Taiwan, the four are descending on Hong Kong this fall for an encore—and for a good cause, too. The concert celebrates women (WAO: “Women As One“) and proceeds will benefit the End Child Sexual Abuse Foundation. Bring your LED fan signs and get ready to warble along.

Due to popular demand, Sweet and Sour Productions is back with another run of “Venus in Fur,“ David Ives's sexy, award-winning 2011 play. Missed last December's run? It tells the story of Thomas, a writer holding auditions for his new play based on the 1870 novel, “Venus in Fur.“ Sexy, confident and crass, actress Vanda struts into the audition hall toting a bag of S&M props, and draws Thomas in as they explore the power play between the sexes. Get your tickets early: you don't want to miss this one.

Thunder From Down Under is Australia's answer to the Chippendales, and the allmale dance troupe will be in town to perform. It's an interactive show, where the boys even select members of the audience to join them on stage.

8pm. AsiaWorld-Arena, Sky Plaza Rd., Chek Lap Kok. $450-1,200 from www.hkticketing.com

8pm. Hall 5G, HKCEC, 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai. $480-580 from www.hkticketing.com

Sep 5, 8pm; Sep 6, 3pm. Fringe Club, 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central, 2525-1032. $190-240 from www.hkticketing.com.

September 11-13

September 23-28

September 4 Onwards

Mozart Master

The Boy Who Lived

Comedy Gold

Virtuoso clarinetist Michael Collins plays Mozart's Clarinet Concerto in A, one of the great composer's final works. He'll also be showing off his conducting talent as well, directing the HK Sinfonietta in the overture to “The Marriage of Figaro.“ Want to get up close and personal? On September 11, Collins is holding a more intimate concert, where the audience will be seated on stage. He'll be performing Beethoven and sharing his musical insights.

Muggles Daniel Clarkson and Jefferson Turner's hilarious “Potted Potter“ is a rapid reenactment of all seven of J.K. Rowling's fantasy series in 70 minutes, complete with a fire-breathing dragon and a “real“ game of quidditch. Either way, it's probably the most intense Harry Potter marathon you'll ever encounter. After a highly successful Hong Kong run in 2012, it's back this September.

September's going to be one funny month, as the annual International Comedy Festival returns to Hong Kong for its eighth year. It brings with it a packed program of international pros, local favorites, as well as three nights of preliminary rounds of the HK International English Comedy Competition (Sep 25-27). It all culminates in the finals held at KITEC, where you'll see the best of this year's comedy gold.

Sep 23-27, 7:30pm; 26-28, 4:30pm; 27-28, 2pm. Drama Theatre, Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd., Wan Chai. $395-550 from www.hkticketing.com.

Various times. $150-250 from www.takeoutcomedy.com; finals tickets from www.hkticketing.com.

Sep 11, 7:30pm; Sep 13, 8pm. Concert Hall, City Hall, 5 Edinburgh Place, Central. $140-320 from www.urbtix.hk.

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Tel: 2730 1251

HK Stylebook Hong Kong’s coolest designers on what to wear and where to shop. By Alice Wan, Sam Hui, Melody Kong and Adele Wong

Where magazines worldwide, including us here in Hong Kong, are dedicating their September issues to fashion. We ask the city’s hottest designers for their wardrobe tips and their favorite shops.

Dress to Impress Designer: Grace Choi Brand: Yi-Ming Former fashion model Grace Choi is the founder of her own qipao (Chinese dress) brand, Yi-ming.

Tell us more about yourself. How did you get into the fashion industry? I became a fashion model around 10 years ago in Asia. I also modeled |in London. Around three years ago, I became really passionate about qipao, so I thought: why not start my own brand? What is your favorite part about being a fashion designer? I love fabrics and print patterns. Being a designer allows me to choose materials and patterns of different colors that I love, and when I put these elements together, I usually get unexpected outcomes— that’s definitely the most exciting part about being a fashion designer.

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How would you describe your brand? My brand is called Yi-ming, which is the pinyin pronunciation of my Chinese name. I’d say my brand is very modern, incorporating new and chic materials, cuttings and styles into the traditional qipao. What makes Hong Kong special for you, as a designer? Hong Kong has a really strong character because she’s a combination of east and west. What items do you always bring with you when you travel? I’ll bring a few pairs of sunglasses with me. I usually pick out colorful and loose-fitting clothing for my vacations, because I want to look sharp and laid-back while I’m chilling and relaxing.

What are some of your favorite retail shops in Hong Kong? I actually don’t do a lot of shopping. But for daily necessities, I always go to Zara because they carry basics and casual wear that I usually need. Sometimes I like to go to Elements shopping mall in West Kowloon, as it’s relatively quiet and comfortable to shop there. Shop at Yi-ming’s showroom at Flat A, 8/F, Kimley Commercial Building, 142 Queen’s Rd. Central. Also check out www.yi-ming.asia.

Suit Yourself Designer: Rafael Raya Cano Brand: RCANO Having come to Hong Kong from his native Mexico—after stints in China and South Africa—designer Rafael Raya Cano started up his own menswear brand, RCANO, and has been impressing the well-dressed of Hong Kong ever since with his elegant and unique men’s shirts.

What made you want to become a designer? The reason I moved here was to learn Chinese. To earn a little extra cash, I started modelling on the side. After working with all the stylists, designers and fashion editors, I started getting into fashion. While working as an assistant to the fashion editor at GQ in South Africa, I decided that I definitely wanted to do something fashion-related. My mom studied fashion design and when I went back to Mexico, I learned from her and took some courses. I forgot about it for a while but when I moved to Hong Kong, I started designing and making stuff for myself. It was only this year that I decided that I should give it a try. Why Hong Kong? I studied marketing at HKUST in Hong Kong, but I got really tired of the city and wanted to do something else, so I moved to South Africa. One day I came back to visit my sister and just decided to stay. Now I’ve been here for two years! How would you describe RCANO’s style? Unique, elegant and limited edition. I make clothes that could be day-casual but, at the same time, they are a bit more elegant: you can wear them for an event, for going out, for a nice dinner, or even for work. There are a lot of prints, colors, combinations

and different fabrics. It’s for ordinary people who want to stand out. Where are you favorite places to shop in Hong Kong? There are a lot of little shops around SoHo, and smaller, more local shops, which I like. Obviously, if I know I can find something at a mall, I’ll just go to a mall. But I prefer the little boutiques around Central and Sheung Wan. I also like Lab Concept in Admiralty (Queensway Plaza, 93 Queensway, Admiralty, 2118-3599). What fashion-related tips would you offer a tourist in Hong Kong? Well, because of how hot it can get, I feel like you should wear some nice shorts and a short-sleeved shirt, if you want to look a bit more elegant. In terms of nightlife, Hong Kong is a place where people like to dress up. It’s not that there are that many dress codes—people just like to dress up. What do you always take with you when you go traveling? I always bring a pair of sweatpants. I’ll always change into them on the plane and then change back out when I get off. It’s nice to be comfortable but if you’re going to meet someone, it’s good to get off the plane and at least look nice. Find Rafael Raya Cano’s products at www.rcano.co.

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Primped and Proper Designer/Brand: Sarah Lai A new kid on the block, Sarah Lai has been fascinated with fashion since she was a child. To date, Lai has launched three collections and her clothes are popular with Hong Kong’s stylish OLs (Office Ladies, or women who work in corporate offices).

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How did you become a designer? I grew up basically in my mom’s and grandmother’s wardrobes, and as a little girl I accompanied them shopping for designer brands all the time. I always read a lot about fashion but it didn’t occur to me to become a designer until two years ago, when I realized most successful designers go through a difficult career path and not every one of them holds a design degree. I took a course in Central Saint Martins in London. I also studied Chinese painting for many years when I was a little girl, and that really helped a lot with my basic drawing skills. What makes your designs stand out from others? The majority of women are not fashion-oriented and style-driven. They care about comfort, colors, and their existing wardrobe. I hope women can get comfortable and be confident in my clothes. The models in advertisements look perfect but most people don’t—that’s just the way it is. My collections are very realistic and wearable.

What items do you always bring along when you travel? Lip balm, essential oils, White Flower Oil [a Chinese ointment], headphones, a sketchbook and a mechanical pencil. What are some fashion-related travel tips you can provide to tourists visiting Hong Kong? For the fashion-conscious tourist, there are many boutiques in Hong Kong that are worth visiting, like Joyce, D-Mop, Liger and I.T. Also, PMQ in Central (see p. 34) is becoming a must-visit! For any kind of cosmetics, SaSa is a must-go. When visiting malls, always remember to bring a cardigan or sweater with you, as Hong Kong is famous for its over-air-conditioned venues. If you are looking for vintage clothes and accessories, go to OnceStyle in Sheung Wan (1/F, 8 On Wo Lane, Sheung Wan, 2889-3660): you will definitely be able to dig for treasures there. Browse Sarah Lai’s products at D-Mop, G/F, 11-15 On Lan St., Central. Or shop online at sarah-lai.com.

The Sophisticated Traveler On the road with American designer Monique Lhuillier. By Jennifer McKee Fashion icon Monique Lhuillier is inspired by her surroundings wherever she goes, which adds extra charm and depth to her dramatic designs. We sat down with Lhuillier to get her tips on packing light and what she does to quickly feel at home in a new destination. What is the most important piece of your personal style? A great-fitting cocktail dress is a signature of mine. I feel like it’s so versatile, it takes you to so many different places. I travel a lot and know these pieces serve a great purpose. What are your best travel tips? To over-pack is just a drag. I always say plan your wardrobe two days before you leave and style it out with the shoes, the belts, etc., so that way you’re very well edited and it doesn’t take up a lot of space. If you’re organized, it makes traveling a breeze. How would you describe your style? Quirky, girly, yet with an elegant twist.

Sew Cool Designer/Brand: Melissa Bui Specializing in embroidery design, Melissa Bui graduated from the London College of Fashion in 2011 and launched her first “affordable couture” collection in 2013. What makes your designs stand out from the crowd? Every piece is designed, created and produced in our little studio in Hong Kong, which allows us to maintain our couture-like craftsmanship. Our embroidery designs (also developed in-house) are hand-embroidered by skilled artisans stitch by stitch, which is rare in ready-to-wear designs.

What items do you always bring with you when you travel? The “Flutterby Skirt” from my SS14 collection during summer— it is sheer, effortless and, most importantly, extremely comfortable! Other than that, my trusty black Lotho sunnies and a sketchbook for when inspiration hits. What are some shopping tips for Hong Kong tourists? I would have to suggest to shop in SoHo for boutiques with international style, PMQ for local design brands, Ap Lei Chau’s Horizon Plaza for outlet shopping (you can sometimes find some great stuff there), Causeway Bay for cheap local trendy buys, Lane Crawford for a one-stop shop and On Pedder (Joyce, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2118-3489) for the best shoes, bags and accessories! Visit Melissa Bui’s website at www.melissabui.com.

What is the first thing you do when you arrive at your new destination? I like to unpack and get everything hung up, and then I take a walk and see my surroundings—just checking out the neighborhood and seeing what sort of things there are to do in the hotel. I like to discover immediately. How do you make a hotel room feel more like home? I bring my music with me, that makes me feel at home. I also bring a fragrance with me, whether it be a candle or an air spray, so it smells like me and my environment. If it’s a long stay, I order fresh flowers in my room, because it automatically makes it feel more cozy. What’s one thing you can’t be without when you travel? My iPhone, because I can take pictures with it, and I’m always connected— if somebody needs me, I’m very accessible. I have my music, my pictures and it just keeps me on track.

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where

the guide

Home Away From Home For a cool new place to stay next time youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in Hong Kong, check out Mira Cube in Tsim Sha Tsui, a just-opened boutique hotel with 50 trendy and comfortable rooms. Special features include a balcony, free wifi in each room as well as a smartphone for hotel guests to use during their stay. Mira Cube also boasts an infinity pool, spa facilities as well as a gym. 6 Knutsford Terrace, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2302-3555.

Art+culture | The Guide

Life As They Know It Two artists and their social observations. By Evelyn Lok

Lam Tung-pang

Martin Parr

Toy Story

Big Spender

Lam Tung-pang comes back to the theme of "play" in this four-month exhibition. On top of his expertise with traditional Chinese ink landscapes, he uses found objects to investigate the way the adult mind looks at childhood toys, so closely linked to personal histories and nostalgia. See tiny diorama figures, toy cars and blocks joining in on the fun, with distant bamboo forests and mountains as the backdrop.

Since the 80s, British photographer Martin Parr has been fascinated by the subject of consumption, luxury, and national peculiarities, treading the line between art and documentary photography. His best known works include a series of snapshots from the 80s, of the British working class holidaying in a decaying Brighton resort, as well as the flaunting of wealth by international millionaires documented in "Luxury." In his latest project, he looks at Hong Kong through his camera lens, snapping pictures of tourists vying to step

Through Sep 30. Espace Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton Mansion, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 8100-1182.

Martin Parr

into LV, local butchers in their wet market stalls, excited revelers at the races, and more. Be at the exhibition opening on September 6 for a signing of his new art book, titled "Hong Kong Parr." Sep 6-Nov 1. Blindspot Gallery, 15/F, Po Chai Industrial Building, 28 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 2517-6238.

Lam Tung-pang

art galleries/Antiques 10 Chancery Lane Gallery — Established in 2001, this gallery focuses on established and emerging artists from around the world. It not only holds exhibitions of paintings, photographs, installations and videos, but also performances by renowned artists. Featured Hong Kong artists include anothermountainman, Frog King, and MAP OFFICE. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, Central, 2810-0065. 1a Space — Founded in 1998, 1a Space is one of the city's leading contemporary visual art organizations. An independent, nonprofit venture established by local artists, it encourages interaction between the art community and the public through exhibitions, seminars, festivals and cultural exchange programs. It features works by rising and veteran local and international artists and runs an artist-in-residence program. Always worth visiting, it's located in a former cattle shed-

turned-artist commune. Unit 14, Cattle Depot Artist Village, 63 Ma Tau Kok Rd., To Kwa Wan, 2529-0087. Agnés b. Librairie Galerie — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnés b. has a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world. G/F, 118 Hollywood Rd., Central 2869-5505. AP Contemporary — AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2118. Archangel Antiques — The three-story shop houses large collections of Qing dynasty porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture.

Arch Angel Art Gallery — Arch angel Art Gallery features a collection of contemporary Vietnamese and Southeast Asian paintings acquired directly from the artists. Some of the paintings are from founder Koos Groot's private collection. 30 Peel St., Central, 2851-6882. Art Beatus Gallery — Established in the early 1990s, Art Beatus features mainly original paintings and art by contemporary Chinese artists. Most of its collection has a retro slant, and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoon as vehicles for expression. Has branches in Vancouver and Hong Kong. G/F, 129-133 Wellington St., Central, 2526-0818. Asia Fine Art — Dedicated to promoting young Asian artists at affordable prices, this gallery has regular exhibitions of work from China, Vietnam and Indonesia and Myanmar for sale on site and online. G/F, 14 Sik On St., Wan Chai, 2522-0405.

You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.

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Art+culture Asia Society Gallery — Asia Society Hong Kong's headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences, 97 percent of which are open to the public-the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. 9 Justice Dr., Admiralty, 2103-9511. Ben Brown Fine Arts — After 10 years at Sotheby's and two more at a private gallery, Ben Brown and his wife sought to create a space that housed pieces reflective of their tastes-primarily on European modern and contemporary artworks. Room 301, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2522-9600. The Cat Street Gallery — Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the world. 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006. Connoisseur Art Gallery — Specializing in contemporary Chinese fine art since 1989, Connoisseur features such acclaimed artists as Paris-based Jia Juan-li, renowned Guangzhou artist Zhang Da-zhong and still life artist Liu Ying-zhao. Shop G3, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2868-5358.

Gagosian Gallery — With 14 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. They opened their doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an all-new exhibition by Damien Hirst-Gagosian only exhibits the creme-de-la-creme of the art world. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central 2151-0555. Grotto Fine Art — Curated by Henry Auyeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery exclusively represents local Chinese artists, with a particular interest in the new and avant-garde art forms. You&39;ll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixed-media and conceptual installation pieces. 31C-D, 1-/F, Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270. Hanart TZ Gallery — A specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by internationally recognized mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone Room 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019.

de Sarthe Gallery — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the U.S. and Europe, de Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, Club Lusitano Building, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896.

Oi Ling Antiques — Oi Ling's Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items dating as far back as the Neolithic era. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2964-0554.

Opera Gallery

Opera Gallery Hong Kong — This gallery features works by world-famous international artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Renoir and Chinese painter Ting Shao-kuang, among others. G/F-3/F, W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-1208.

Lam & Co Antiquities

De Sarthe Gallery

work of well-established artists in a variety of styles-namely realism, surrealism, still-lifes, portraiture and modern abstraction. The gallery has an exhibition program and also gives advice to corporate clients about art commissioning and acquisition. 4/F, Kai Tak, 35 Tai Yau St., San Po Kong, 2234-9889.

Lam & Co Antiques — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silver ware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offer repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services. 2/F, 151 Hollywood Rd., Central 2543-8877.

Picture This Gallery — The city's largest affordable-art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children's rooms and sporting prints. They'll also frame your fragile old artwork. Unit 1308, 13/F, 9 Queen's Rd. Central, Central, 2525-2820. Puerta Roja — Puerta Roja was established to promote Latin American art and artists to the Hong Kong audience. Drawings, etchings, glasswork and sculptures are all featured here. Shop A, G/F, Wai Yue Building, 15-17 New St., Sheung Wan, 2803-0332.

Lahmann Maupin

Galerie Du Monde

Galerie du Monde — Specializing in modern and contemporary Chinese art, and a champion of up-and-coming talents, Galerie du Monde is known for innovative exhibits that cross mediums: from sculpture to photography, paper to canvas. Room 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Centre, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529.

Lehmann Maupin — With the original branch in New York and with its reputation of supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery opened its doors here on March 14. Architect Rem Koolhas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Room 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2530-0025. New Gallery on Old Bailey — Established in 1999, the gallery aims to promote contemporary Chinese fine art. It exhibits the

Plum Blossoms Gallery

Plum Blossoms Gallery — Recognized for its exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection of museumquality ancient textiles, Plum Blossoms is an established platform for the promotion of both ancient and modern arts.14/F, Cheung Tak Building, 30 Heung Yip Rd., Wong Chuk Hang 2521-2189.

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Art+culture | The Guide Red Square Gallery — Red Square Gallery is a window into Contemporary Russian Art. Expanding into four branches, the gallery is dedicated to bringing creative and dynamic artwork to Hong Kong. Shop 2, G/F, Stanley Plaza, 1A Wong Nai Chung Rd., Happy Valley 2838-0040.

the city's historical, art and cultural heritage. Permanent exhibitions on the New Territories and Cantonese opera, plus a Children's Discovery Gallery of natural and cultural history, including toy-making. Closed Tuesdays and public holidays. 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188.

Shin Hwa Gallery — Focusing on Asian contemporary art, Shin Hwa features both upcoming and established artists. It is particularly committed to innovative Korean artists. It currently offers works on show by appointment only, and primarily provides an art consultancy service. 1/F, Mandarin Commercial House, 38 Morrison Hill Rd., Wan Chai, 2803-7960. Sin Sin Fine Art — The gallery represents and promotes mainland and Southeast Asian artists and photographers, with a focus on Chinese, Indonesian and Thai works of art. G/F, 53-54 Sai St., Sheung Wan, 2858-5072. Wattis Fine Art — Specializes in antique maps of Asia, and historical photographs and prints of China, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia. 2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302.

Hong Kong Maritime Museum

Hong Kong Maritime Museum — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong&39;s growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier No. 8, Man Kwong St., Central, 3713-2500. Hong Kong Museum of Art — One of the city's largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042.

White Cube

White Cube — One of the world's top contemporary galleries opened its first non-UK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials-for instance, Damien Hirst's famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. 50 Connaught Rd., Central, 2592-2000.

museumS Flagstaff House Museum of Teaware — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-in-chief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It's also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Hong Kong Park, 10 Cotton Tree Dr., Central, 2869-0690. Hong Kong Film Archive — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Thursdays. 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139. Hong Kong Heritage Museum — This modern museum is devoted to preserving

Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence — Don't let the name put you off, this is a great little museum. Set in a 19th-century British fort with spectacular views of the Lei Yue Mun channel, it features the original restored batteries and camouflaged cannons under a new tented canopy. The museum also houses artifacts and costumes from Hong Kong's military past. A gentle trail leads to the sea, giving a sense of how the British patrolled for pirates and other enemies of the colony. Closed Thursdays. 175 Tung Hei Rd., Shau Kei Wan, 2569-1500. Hong Kong Museum of History — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. But it's the reconstruction of a post-war street, complete with tram and traveling Chinese opera company, that really grabs the attention.100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042.

Hong Kong Museum Of Medical Sciences

Hong Kong Museum of Medical Sciences — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine

18 W H E R E HONG KONG I S e p t e m b e r 2 014

in the city. It was the first to focus on both Western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Closed Mondays. 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels, 2549-5123. Hong Kong Railway Museum — This small, picturesque museum is dedicated to the history of Hong Kong's railway system. It's situated in a former train station, a charming 1913 building with a traditional tiled roof now declared a historical monument. The permanent exhibition includes photographs, old coaches, samples of tracks and a full-sized model of an electric train compartment. Closed Tuesdays. Tai Po Market, 13 Shung Tak St., 2653-3455. Hong Kong Science Museum — Great for kids, thanks to about 500 permanent exhibits that explore all aspects of science and technology, including robotics, virtual reality and transportation. Best of all, about 70 percent of the displays are interactive, meaning the little ones can play with them. A popular feature is the 20-meter-high energy machine. Closed Thursdays. 2 Science Museum Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2732-3232. Hong Kong Space Museum — Explore the final frontier at the Space Museum and learn all about astronomy and space technology. One of the largest planetariums in the world features daily Omnimax screenings and Sky shows. Closed Tuesdays 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0226. Law Uk Folk Museum — Law Uk, which means 'Law's House' after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. Free admission. Closed Thu 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006. Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, the Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum is one of the city's most fascinating monuments. Closed Thu 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863. Madame Tussauds Hong Kong — The local branch of the world-famous Madame Tussauds wax museum encourages visitors to touch and pose with the figures. Local celebrities include Jackie Chan, Andy Lau and Michelle Yeoh. Also, where else in the Fragrant Harbor can you pose with Lady Gaga, Barack Obama and Yao Ming Shop P101, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-6966. Police Museum — This interesting little museum has more than 600 artifacts relating to the Hong Kong Police, from the force's inception in 1844 to today. It's split into four sections including a gallery devoted to triad societies, the equivalent of gangs. Closed on public holidays. 27 Coombe Rd., The Peak, 2849-7019. Sam Tung Uk Museum — Offering a fascinating insight into Hong Kong's past, Sam Tung Uk ('three rows of dwelling') is a restored 200-year-old walled village. The 2,000-square-meter museum includes an ancestral hall, two rows of side houses, an exhibition hall and a lecture hall. It contains displays of period furniture, handicrafts and agricultural equipment. Closed Tuesdays. 2 Kwu Uk Lane, Tsuen Wan, 2411-2001.

Address: Ground Floor, 1E Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong. (Opposite the Holiday Inn Golden Mile Hotel’s Mody Road entrance) Telephone: 2368-0040, 2723-0056 Email: laelite@netvigator.com 九龍尖沙咀麼地道1E地下 (金域假日酒店麼地道入口對面)

dining | The Guide

Moon Fever Celebrate Mid-Autumn Festival like the locals by enjoying some delicious mooncakes. By Adele Wong and Kate Springer Legend has it that mooncakes— dense, lotus-paste-filled pastries— were once used to pass on secret paper messages hidden within the filling by Chinese rebels in the Yuan dynasty. Nowadays, the sweet treats are enjoyed exclusively during Mid-Autumn festival, and come in all shapes, sizes, and flavors. Here are some of our top picks:

Cut the Custard For a delicious introduction to mooncakes, a box of Duddell’s custard cream delights ($328 per box), sold in a shiny red box designed by Sovereign Asian Art Prizewinner Adrian Wong, will definitely do the trick. 3-4/F, 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-9191.

Fook Lam Moon

A Sweet Treat

Fruits of Labor

Chocolate. Ice-cream. Have we said enough? HeyYo’s chocolate-shell ice cream “mooncakes” come with a whole piece of Ferrero Rocher in the middle, instead of your usual egg yolk ($278 per box). There are also different flavors of ice cream available, from pistachio to mixed berries to yup, even more chocolate.

If you’re adventurous, go for a box of durian (a creamy fruit with a hard, spiky shell that’s popular in Asia) mooncakes from Shang Palace at the Kowloon Shangri-La ($298 for eight). These mini snowy mooncakes are loaded with a Malaysian durian paste for a bittersweet flavor with just enough of a distinctive aroma.

PPG Cake House, Shop B71, Windsor House, 311 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 3583-2065.

64 Mody Rd., East Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-2111.

HeyYo

Cuisine Cuisine 20 W H E R E HONG KONG I s e p t e m b e r 2 014

Kowloon Shangri-La

dining Tray Bien For a quirky take-home souvenir, look no further than Cuisine Cuisine’s MidAutumn special: mooncakes that come in a box... that turns into a tea tray ($268-298 per box)! Choose from molten pumpkin with bird’s nest, or the more traditional white lotus seed and custard combos.

New and Noted This month in food news. By Adele Wong

Shop 3101, Podium Level 3, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2393-3933.

Bunny Stuff Check out the cute bunny-shaped mooncakes from the Arome Bakery chains for a lighter spin on this traditional treat. There are 10 in the box ($158 per box)— try not to eat them all at once! Shop 4, Golden Centre, 188 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 2851-7796.

Traditional Triumph With so many crazy mooncake flavors and varieties to choose from, sometimes you just need something simple and timeless. Fook Lam Moon’s Classic Four Moon cake series are made with a combination of lotus seed, olive kernels and a dash of salted egg yolk ($680 per box). Choose from white lotus or golden lotus fillinn.

Mo’ Innovation Chef Alvin Leung has created a fancy new menu for his three-Michelin-starred Bo Innovation. Standouts include a lap mei fan (claypot rice with meat) in the form of a Baked Alaska; a steamed fish dish that uses a classic Cantonese recipe of Yunnan ham and dry mandarin peel instead of the usual green onions with soy sauce; and some western-influenced dishes such as an ox tongue soaked in bak kut teh (Malaysian herbal soup) and chocolate sauce. Everything sounds extreme, which is what you’d expect from chef Leung, but the real surprise is how well most of the ingredients come together and how familiar everything tastes. The new tasting and Chef Table’s menus cost $1,380-2,380 per head for dinner, not including wines. Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2850-8371.

35-45 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-0663.

Make Your Own Mooncakes Sign yourself up for Yan Toh Heen’s Moon Cake Making Class at the InterContinental Hotel, where you’ll be able to pick up the skills to create your own custard cream beauties within two hours. You can also design your own mooncake moulds for a truly personalized spin. Sep 6, 11:45am-1:45pm. Yan Toh Heen, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-1211.

Some Like It Hot Man Wah at the Mandarin Oriental hotel will be serving dishes from popular Chengdu restaurant Da Rong He for a full two weeks in September. They’re flying over a whole team of chefs and a ton of specialty ingredients straight from Sichuan for the duration of the promotion, which comes as an eight-course lunch or a 10-course dinner. There are lots of chili-laced dishes, to be sure, but most of them are so refined you don’t really notice the heat until it inevitably takes over your face, starting from the lips. The pain is worth it. Special mentions: a Chinese perch in a clear chili bath; and a tea-smoked duck that tastes like heaven. Sep 19-27, $698-1,480 per person for lunch/dinner. Yan Toh Heen

25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4003.

s e p t e m b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 21

dining | The Guide Admiralty

Tott’s — Modern Asian/Western. $$$-$$$$ Sophisticated décor, harbor-view seats, and perfectly crafted entrees are the hallmark here. The attentive service also deserves special mention. 34/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., 2837-6786.

Central, Lan Kwai Fong & Soho AMMO

Ammo — Western. $$$ Tapas and pastas can be had at this posh Asia Society eatery housed in a former British army magazine compound. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2537-9888. METROPOL — Dim sum. $ Beef balls, steamed shrimp dumplings, pork-and-shrimp dumplings, stuffed rice rolls and other Hong Kong specialties are wheeled around in traditional trolleys for an authentic dim sum experience. 4/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty, 2865-1988. NICHOLINI’S — Italian. $$$$ This restaurant gets kudos from honest-to-goodness Italians, and that’s good enough for us. 8/F, Conrad International Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2521-3838. PETRUS — French. $$$$ This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The décor is a bit ostentatious, but the opulence suits the magnificent view. 56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2820-8590.

Causeway Bay

ABerdeen Street Social — Modern British. $$$-$$$$ British chef Jason Atherton heads this beautiful two-story establishment consisting of a fine-diner upstairs and a casual cafe on the ground floor. G/F, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2866-0300. AMBER — Modern French. $$$$ Modern, inventive French cuisine meets attentiongrabbing decor. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066. Brickhouse — Mexican. $$. Imagine street-side Mexican combined with hipster-chic décor and upbeat music. Phone reservations not allowed and queues form quickly at peak hours so early arrival recommended. G/F, 20A D’Aguilar St., 2810-0560.

CAPRICE — French. $$$$ Three Michelin Stars. Splurge on haute cuisine at this French restaurant helmed by chef Fabrice Vulin. The gorgeous interior includes floor-to-ceiling windows. 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8860.

IPPUDO — Ramen. $ Japan’s famous chain serves ramen in bowls so enormous they should be called cauldrons, with a meaty, savory broth, tender pork pieces, springy noodles and tangy spring onions topped with fungus and bean sprouts. 2/F, 8 Russell St., 2892-2387.

PENTHOUSE by Harlan Goldstein— Western. $$$$ Enjoy dishes by celebrity chef Harlan Goldstein in this spacious resto that comes with alfresco terrace. 30/F, Midtown, 1 Tang Lung St., Causeway Bay, 2970-0828. Sorabol — Korean. $$ The smell wafting from the open barbecues in the middle of each table will get your appetite going— which is a good thing, since you’ll want to try everything. 18/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival St., 2881-6823. 22 W H E R E HONG KONG I s e p t e m b e r 2 014

INAGIKU — Japanese. $$$ The Hong Kong branch of one of Japan’s oldest and bestknown restaurants, it lives up to the buzz: authentic, delicious and quiveringly fresh. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 2805-0600. ISOLA BAR & GRILL — Italian. $$$$ The glam factor is off the scale, with stunning harbor views and high ceilings, not to mention handmade pastas, pizzas, risottos and more. Shop 3071-75, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., 2383-8765. JASHAN — Indian. $$ Immediately impressive, with dim lighting, vermilion walls and colonial furnishings, Jashan offers an extensive menu, delicious food and hotel-level service. 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., 3105-5300.

Boqueria — Spanish. $$$ Feast on tasty tapas and bomba rice paellas at this chain from New York. 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2321-8681.

Hooray — Italian. $$ Al fresco drinks and dining in a casual setting complete with a magnificent harbor view. Shop P502, 5/F, World Trade Center, 280 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2895-0885.

MANGO TREE — Thai. $$-$$$ Somehow, in the middle of bustling Causeway Bay, in a high-rise chock-full of other restaurants and bars, Mango Tree manages to be an oasis of dim lighting, carefully placed flowers and good Thai food. 5/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-0828.

Ho Lee Fook — Chinese fusion. $$$ Chinese dishes are given a cheeky spin at this resto headed by Australian-Chinese chef Jowett Yu. G/F, 1-5 Elgin St., Central, 2810-0860.

Duddell’s

L’Atelier De Joel Robuchon

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON — French. $$$$ The Frenchman named “Chef of the Century” by Gault Millau designs authentic dishes with exquisite finesse and precision, which are then turned out by highly trained chefs in the open kitchen. Shop 315 & 401, 3-4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2166-9000. LIN HEUNG Lau— Cantonese. $$ The setup has changed little in more than 50 years and it still remains a popular hangout for those craving a bit of old Hong Kong nostalgia and really, really good food. Most people come here for daytime dim sum, but dinner’s great too. 160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556.

CHINA Tang — Chinese. $$$$ Sir David Tang’s latest Chinese fine-dine offers top delicacies from Beijing, Sichuan and Guangdong in a luxurious setting. Shop 411-413, 4/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2522-2148. Duddell’s — Cantonese. $$$. Serves Chinese fusion by former T’ang Court chef Siu Hin-chi. The art pieces on display are another highlight. Levels 3 & 4, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., 2525-9191. Fatty Crab — Southeast Asian. $$$. A branch of the popular Fatty Crab Restaurant in New York. Expect a delectable mix of South-East Asian flavors. 11-13 Old Bailey St., 2521-2033.

Lung King Heen

LUNG KING HEEN — Cantonese. $$$-$$$$ Three Michelin Stars. The name means “view of the dragon” and the floor-to-ceiling windows

dining

make the case. Stylish décor, flawless service and traditional as well as innovative dishes only add to the appeal. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8880.

Mott 32

Mott 32 — Chinese. $$$$ This dark and moody basement restaurant offers Peking duck and other classic Chinese dishes. B/F, Standard Chartered Bank Building, 4-4A Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2885-8688. pierre — French. $$$$ Masterminded by three-Michelin-star chef Pierre Gagnaire, this is a bastion of fine French dining. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4001. POSTO PUBBLICO — American Italian. $$$ Hip Greenwich Village types come to get their fill of such dishes as veal meatballs and sandwiches of homemade mozzarella, eggplant and lashings of balsamic vinegar. G/F, 28 Elgin St., 2577-7160. SEVVA — Contemporary. $$$$ The brainchild of local socialite Bonnie Gokson, this 22,000-square-foot penthouse restaurant comes with a buzzing wraparound terrace. The elegant eatery serves dishes drawn from Cantonese, Shanghainese, Indian and British culinary concepts. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., 2537-1388.

Yardbird

YARDBIRD — Yakitori. $$$ This is a no-frills yet achingly modern two-story yakitori joint in a trendy corner of the district. The skewers are mostly chicken-based, and taken from every part of the chicken’s body from the heart to the skin. Don’t forget to sample the house sake. 33-35 Bridges St., 2547-9273. ZUMA — Japanese. $$$$ This is one goodlooking restaurant, split over two floors and linked by a sumptuous staircase. It’s the local branch of London’s famed eatery,offering a sophisticated twist on the traditional izakaya. 5-6/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3657-6388. s e p t e m b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 23

dining | The Guide The Peak THE PEAK LOOKOUT — International. $$$ Offering an alfresco terrace with a view, this restaurant features an open, bright and airy environment—more like a mountain lodge than a country club—and excellent fare. 121 Peak Rd., 2849-1000.

Repulse Bay SPICES — Pan-Asian. $$$ Below a glassy high-rise, this restaurant is devoted to showcasing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East.” It also offers a fantastic view of the South China Sea and the sandy shores below. G/F, The Arcade, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2821.

HUTONG — Northern Chinese. $$$$ Dark wood furnishings and a fabulous harbor view make for a modern-day Chinese dining hall. The food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., 3428-8342.

dishes like camphor-smoked duck with pancakes. Also known for its interior full of fabulous chinoiserie. 6/F, The Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, 3 Canton Rd., 2376-3322.

Wan Chai

MORTON’S OF CHICAGO — Steak. $$$$ With huge slabs of prime, aged beef accompanied by what looks like the winning entries in a hard-fought vegetable show, Morton’s is one of the best steak restaurants in Hong Kong. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., 2732-2343.

Bo Innovation

THE VERANDAH — Continental/International. $$$ Book brunch in time to get a seat at this popular spot. On other days, the a la carte menu never disappoints. Closed Mon. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2822.

BO INNOVATION — Chinese. $$$-$$$$ Experimental cuisine pairing local ingredients with delicacies imported from across the world. Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., 2850-8371.

Tsim Sha Tsui Nobu

NOBU — Japanese. $$$$ Mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution, this famous restaurant deserves the hype. Sushi is a must, as is the amazing black cod. 2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323.

Angelini

ANGELINI — Italian. $$$-$$$$ With Italian native Marco Medaglia at the helm, Angelini serves up unpretentious food, with an emphasis on ingredients air-freighted from Italy three times a week. Also has a great harbor view. Mezzanine, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., 2733-8750.

Ruth’s Chris — Steak. $$$$ American steakhouse, with USDA Prime cuts served alongisde rich sides like spinach au gratin and tempura onion rings. Shop 108-110, 1/F, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2366-6000.

Spoon

SPOON — French. $$$$ Chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows, a fabulous harbor view and an innovative modern menu. Lobby, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323. T’ANG COURT — Cantonese. $$$$ This little gem serves some of the city’s finest Cantonese cuisine. 1/F, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., 2132-7898.

FOOK LAM MOON — Cantonese. $$$$ Devotees swear this place serves the best Cantonese cuisine in the world. It’s been the place to go for southern Chinese delicacies for more than five decades. 53-59 Kimberley Rd., 2366-0286. 24 W H E R E HONG KONG I s e p t e m b e r 2 014

Catalunya — Spanish. $$$$This 7,500 square feet of restaurant and bar space offers Catalan-style dishes such as roasted suckling pig and lobster rice. G/F, Guardian House, 32 Oi Kwan Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-7900. MADAM SIXTY Ate — European. $$$ At this posh eclectic eatery, an open kitchen faces the diners, with chefs readying exquisitely prepared dishes scurrying around. Shop 8, 1/F, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-2558.

FELIX — Fusion. $$$$ Still one of the swankiest restaurants in town, with Philippe Starck décor, modern food and famous bathrooms. It’s glam, contemporary and kid-free. 28/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, 2696-6778.

Fook Lam Moon

Catalunya

Whisk — Modern European. $$$ Whisk is known for its contemporary European dishes and extensive wine list that is relatively more affordable than other fine diners. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., 2368-1111. YE SHANGHAI — Shanghainese. $$$ With upscale cuisine served in shareable portions, this is the place for Shanghainese

THE PAWN — British. $$$ Serving fabulous food in a faithful restoration of an 1888 landmark building, The Pawn houses a bar and a restaurant with a roof and a breezy balcony overlooking Johnston Road. The menu has modern British fare with a luxurious twist. 2/F, 62 Johnston Rd., 2866-3444. WOOLOOMOOLOO — Australian/New Zealand. $$$ This steakhouse is several places at once: a laid-back wine bar and a casual drinks terrace on the rooftop, and a fine -dining steakhouse below. 31/F-Rooftop, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960.

Price Guide $ Less than $200 $$ $200-$399 $$$ $400-$599

$$$$ $600-$799 $$$$$ $800 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course and dessert. Prices do not include bottles of wine unless stated.

Drinks | The Guide

Into the Woods A new bar in Central is the talk of the town. By Andrea Lo

The buzz: The Woods is located on a busy intersection of Hollywood Road, Wyndham and Old Bailey streets in Central. The basement bar is decked out in nature-inspired décor—hence the name—and shakes up creative and painstakingly crafted cocktails. It’s only been open for a month, and it’s already a neighborhood hotspot.

seats eight. Pay close attention to the details: the glass canopy is hand-blown, recreating the feeling of light seeping through tree branches in the woods, while a carpet featuring a marble mosaic is paired with reclaimed wood flooring to represent fallen leaves. The drinks: In the lounge area, order from a list of classic cocktails with a twist—like the beet negroni, made with a beetroot-infused Tanqueray, vermouth and Campari. Or cool down with a

The décor: The Woods is split into two sections—the lounge area takes up most of the space, while the fixed price bar

fizzy cucumber gimlet, made with gin, elderflower liqueur, cucumber, mint, and lemon juice. Cozying up to the fixed price bar? Ask about the four-course cocktailpairing menu ($688), which gets a revamp every six to eight weeks. We tried the Gin Basil Smash—a twist on the norm, in that it comes in a hollow ice sphere that you smash open with a hammer. How fun is that? LG/F, 17 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2522-0281.

Bars & Clubs

Angel’s Share

121BC — This import from Sydney, Australia offers biodynamic wines from Italian producers. 42-44 Peel St., Central, 2395-0200. ANGEL’S SHARE — This unique drinking loft is specifically designed for whisky lovers. Sourced from Scotland to Japan, there’s enough aged golden liquid here to suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-8388. AQUA spirit — For cocktails with a killer vista, you can do no better than this swanky high -rise venue with an eagle’s eye view of the harbor. 30/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288.

Azure — Stunning view, minimalist blue décor and great cocktails. 29/F, LKF Hotel, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 3518-9330.

the slow jazz and contemporary tunes. 3/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2147-3448.

Blckbrd — This chilled-out spot has an official “no loud music” policy, making it the perfect place for a few low-key drinks. Located on the sixth floor, the outdoor terrace is a serene place to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2545-8555.

COMMON ROOM — Spacious gastropub Common Room iserves mixologist-crafted cocktails and international tapas dishes right off LKF’s main drag. 1/F, Wo On Building, 8-13 Wo On Lane, Centrak, 2525-3599.

BLUE BAR — The upscale Blue Bar is a big hit with the cocktail set. Yes, the martinis are worth getting dressed up for. Lobby, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8888. Café Gray Deluxe — Beside the seductively stretched bar are cozy booths for intimate lounging, and its 49th-floor perch guarantees breathtaking harbor views. Cocktail lovers should try the Hong Kong Highball. 49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. Central Wine Club — This spot was designed with oenophiles in mind. Luxe, modern Baroque surrounds keep pace with

Craft Brew & Co

CRAFT BREW & CO — Unlike other beer joints, you won’t find a single mass-produced beer at Craft Brew. It also serves gourmet grilled sausages: forget your average bratwurst (although that’s also on offer)—you’ll find exotic meats such as crocodile, cobra and rabbit on the menu. G/F, 17 Old Bailey St., Central, 2885-0821.

For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at bars, restaurants and coffee shops).

26 W H E R E HONG KONG I S e p t e m b e r 2 014

Drinks DRAGON-I — Watch the bold and the beautiful work the celeb-studded room. It’s usually packed with models, especially on Wednesday nights. Podium, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 3110-1222. EXECUTIVE BAR — So quiet that the sound of a ninja’s sword slicing through silk would be cause for shushing. Well, not really, but it is quiet, Japanese and well-stocked with Scotch— the drink of the introspective man. 27/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 6710-2057. FU Lu Shou — Hongkongers love a good rooftop bar, so it’s no surprise that the super-hip Fu Lu Shou is all the rage. Not only do the innovative cocktails have a strong local flavor, but you’ll also find western-style Chinatown favorites on the menu. Call ahead for the door code. 7/F, 31 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2336-8812. GRAPPA’S CELLAR — This bustling after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians. B/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322.

MCSORLEY’S ALE HOUSE — Woody, Irish and vaguely Victorian, McSorley’s is the biggest pub in SoHo. 55 Elgin St., Central, 2522-2646. MO BAR — The bar at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental is a sleek, upscale addition to the nightlife scene. G/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0077. Ozone — Located 118 floors above the ground, this watering hole boasts a superlative title: the highest bar in Hong Kong. This nightspot is a must-see, especially due to its drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2263. Quinary — Grab molecular cocktails in a chilled-out lounge off Hollywood Road. Be impressed by local mixologist Antonio Lai’s creative drinks list. G/F, 56-58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-3223.

KEE CLUB — A good concierge should be able to get you into this exclusive members-only club, where you can sip a cocktail and check out the Picassos, antiques and colonial-style service. 6/F, Yeung Kee Building, 32 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9000. L’etage — With the feel of a true gentlemen’s club, this is a place for refined Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a traditionally made cocktail in one hand and a cigar in another. It’s worth coming back just to watch head bartender Katsuhisa Hirakawa hand-carve spheres of ice for whisky. 22/F, Macau Yat Yuen Centre, 525 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2522-5300. LE BOUDOIR — This Francophone hangout is all sultry drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery. The cocktails are stellar, too. B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central, 2530-3870. LILY — Get buzzed in and out of Lily’s fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. Aesthetes will be delighted that so much attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166. Lion Rock — Lion Rock is the place to unwind and relax while having one (or more) of 193 signature cocktails. Enjoy the awesome view and weekly wine and whisky tastings. 3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel, 193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Mong Kok, 2622-6167. M BAR — Set against the heights of Hong Kong’s skyline, the Mandarin Oriental’s M Bar makes for a ravishingly chic hangout. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4002. Martini BAR — This stylish hotel bar has nightly entertainment, a range of cocktails beyond just martinis and is one of the few cigar lounges in town. G/F, The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2733-2995.

Red Bar

SUGAR — Sink into one of the sofas at this swanky rooftop bar and enjoy the amazing views of the harbor. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Quarry Bay, 3968-3738.

The Lawn

The Lawn — This outdoor garden is a genuine urban oasis, exuding a serene, intimate vibe and illuminated entirely by a few candles. 6/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. The Parlour — The kitschy-chic bar sits betwixt the equally droll west and east dining rooms, and looks like an exotic dive in 70s London Chinatown. Hullet House, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3988-0101.

The Pawn

RED BAR — Located on a terrace atop IFC Mall, this funky destination bar has a breathtaking public outdoor area with harbor views. 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882.

THE PAWN — The modern British restaurant and bar, a former pawn shop, has an outdoor balcony from which to enjoy a view of Hong Kong’s 100-year-old trams. 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444.

RIEDEL ROOM — The world’s first Riedel Room offers exclusive wines to be enjoyed in Riedel crystal glassware. Lobby, JW Marriott Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2841-3836.

The Tonno — This complex features a bar, a clubbing zone, a restaurant, a live music lounge and karaoke rooms, taking “allaround entertainment” to a whole new level. Head here for an epic marathon of dancing, drinking, Elton John hits, dart games and Shanghainese buns. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.

Sake Bar Ginn — Sake sommelier Ayuchi Momose is behind this upper-floor bar. In addition to serving 100 types of sake and 30 Japanese tapas, she also imports special sakes by microbreweries. Shop 4C, 4/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2536-4355. Salon de Ning — Decadent Shanghai art deco lounge with live music Tue-Thu. UG/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6705. SHORE — A chill outdoor space and one of the most extensive drinks selections in town. Newly renovated. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2915-1638. Staunton’s — Considered the best “peoplewatching spot” in Hong Kong, Staunton’s has the right equation for a chill evening drink. It also has an eclectic menu. 10-12 Staunton St., Central, 2973-6611.

Vibes

VIBES — The Mira hotel’s svelte alfresco drinks venue is home to a stunning secret garden. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5999. VOLAR — Frequented by models and wannabes, Volar can be exclusive, but you can dance the night away to top DJs. B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510. s e p t e m b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 27

ShopS+Services | The Guide

Free Styling The hottest look this season. By Katie Kenny Call it what you like—festival wear, boho chic, modern flower child— but this free-spirited style is a great way to avoid looking like a sweaty mess all summer. Match flowing tops with shorts, or dresses with cut-out ankle booties and playful accessories.

Shopping Centers APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 3148-1200.

Elements

ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous roof garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234.

Floral headpiece, $185, Topshop

Kimono, $780, Kookii B

HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8666.

Crop top, $268, American Apparel @ LAB Concept Hysan Place

HYSAN PLACE — This mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of high-quality dining options. 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222.

Shorts, $259, Bershka

Fringe backpack, $1,320, Topshop “Lola Skye” collection, Dorothy Perkins @ Zalora Hong Kong

Zalora Hong Kong www.zalora.com.hk. LAB Concept 1/F, Queensway Plaza, 93 Queensway, Admiralty, 2118-6008.

Bershka Shop G59-60, G/F, Olympian City, 11 Hoi Fai Rd., West Kowloon, 2273-4200. Kookii B www.kookiib.com.

Topshop Asia Standard Tower, 56-65 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2118-5353.

IFC Mall

IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international highend brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308. HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089.

Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.

28 W H E R E HONG KONG I s e p t e m b e r 2 014

ShopS+Services | The Guide ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2890-6823. THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols. 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3428-8086. LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mongkok, 3520-2800, www.langhamplace.com.hk. LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-5227, www.hysan.com.hk.

Daydream Nation — A locally grown label that incorporates fashion with other art forms like theater, dance, music, film and visual arts. They offer their own collection of clothing and accessories as well as works from local artists and indie bands. Daydream Nation Circus Shop, 2/F, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2817-6313.

Wudai Shiguo — This shop in the trendy Star Street neighborhood is a collaboration between a group of local designers and stocks Americanstyle fashion and accessories. 9B1 St. Francis St., Wan Chai, 2528-3800.

Department Stores G.O.D.

G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876.

Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place

PRINCE’S BUILDING — Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkway to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uberfashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket. 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2500-0555.

TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 13-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket City’super, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.

JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 28101120; Shop 232, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944; Shop G106, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2907-2228.

Squarestreet — Seriously hipster shoes and accessories. G/F, 15 Square St., Sheung Wan, 2362-1086. Lane Crawford

Tang Tang Tang Tang

LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with must-have designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388.

Tang tang tang tang — Sir David Tang's casual lifestyle store stocks everything from rice cookers to pyjamas. G/F, 66 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2525-2112. Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist. Shop 417, Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2506-2088.

Shops, Boutiques and Local Designers

Walter Ma — Well-established designer offering luxury fashion. 174 Wellington St., Central, 2307-1599.

Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men. Shop 123, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2104-7934.

Western Market — An Edwardian-styled building with restaurants and shops selling Chinese crafts and fabrics. 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 6029-2675.

30 W H E R E HONG KONG I s e p t e m b e r 2 014

Joyce

Squarestreet

One Peking — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier. 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3417-3000. Rise Commercial Building — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2384-8728.

Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant— the Fourth Floor —and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388.

Kapok — Offers meticulously selected international and local brands for menswear, womenswear, bags and accessories, as well as lifestyle products. G/F, 5, St Francis Yard, Wan Chai, 2549-9254. SPY Henry Lau — Edgy and bold fashion for men and women. Suite B, 1/F, Cleveland Mansion, 5 Cleveland St., Causeway Bay, 2317-6928.

PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8988.

Wudai Shiguo

Shanghai Tang SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.

HONG KONG Shop G&H, Ground Floor, Burlington House, 90-94C Nathan Road, T.S.T., KLN., HK (Tsim Sha Tsui Station Exit B1) 九龍尖沙咀彌敦道90-94C號華敦大廈地下Ｇ&H舖（尖沙咀港鐵站 B1 出口） Tel: (852) 2366 5635 / 2366 6612 / 2368 8625 BUSINESS HOURS 09:00AM – 09:00PM (MON-SAT) 10:00AM – 07:00PM (SUN)

www.punjabhouse.com.hk

SPECIAL OFFER FOR MEN AND WOMEN ONE SUIT WITH TWO PANTS

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ShopS+Services | The Guide SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.

SPAS CHUAN SPA — This stunning spa focuses on the individual needs of each client through traditional Chinese medicine and theories, including yin and yang. Its consultants are qualified in Chinese medicine, massage and naturopathy. 41/F, Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3510, www.chuanspa.com.

and an extensive range of facial and body treatments in 23 rooms and suites. Other facilities include a 50-meter outdoor pool, fitness and exercise studios, a poolside grill restaurant and a tree-lined courtyard. 11/F, Grand Hyatt, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2588-1234, www.hongkong.grand.hyatt.com.

The Swank

THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freestanding boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2175-4228.

Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. Shop 220, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2735-4061. YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 301-309 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3511-2222.

Tailors DAVID FASHIONs — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884. L & K bespoke Tailor — G/F, Mirador Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278. Nita Fashions — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim vSha Tsui. 2721-9990, www.nitafashions.com. Punjab House — 5/F, Suite C, Golden Crown Court, 66-70 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612, www.punjabhouse.com.hk. Raja Fashions — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624, www.raja-fashions.com.

Flawless

FLAWLESS — This all-in-one shop offers makeup and nail services as well as spa treatments in a spacious upper-level venue. 4/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2869-5868. IYARA DAY SPA — This Central institution offers everything from manis and pedis to facials, waxing and massage treatments. 1/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2545-8638. KIWI SPA — With light green glass, curved walls and soft light and gentle music, Kiwi offers quality foot and body massages that are affordable at the same time. iPads and headsets are available to use at your leisure while you're enjoying the treatments. 14/F, Century Square Building, 1-13 D'Aguilar St., Central, 2567-1333, www.kiwi-hk.com. MANDARIN SPA — This luxe retreat has eight private treatment rooms, including two couples’ suites, each with private steam shower and pool. Its therapies combine ancient and contemporary techniques, and specialist practitioners offer treatments that incorporate ayurvedic philosophies and traditional Chinese medicine. 24/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4888, www.mandarinoriental.com/hongkong. MEN’S SKIN CENTRE BY BELLA — This center has tailor-made treatments that focus on deep cleansing, acne treatment, and rehydration to brighten and improve your complexion. It also offers laser hair removal services. 9/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-6352, www.bellaskin.com. MIRASPA — It’s pampering for the 21st century. The Mira Spa is comfortably futuristic, with purple and pure white accents and an indoor pool decorated with twinkling lights. Facilities include a jacuzzi plus steam and sauna rooms— and nifty waterbeds in the pre-treatment room. B3/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5500, www.themirahotel.com.

REGAL fashion — G/F, Shop 15, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-6007. Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 90-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423. Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1251. 32 W H E R E HONG KONG I s e p t e m b e r 2 014

Plateau Spa

PLATEAU SPA — This whopping 80,000-squarefoot spa offers overnight accommodation

Sense Of Touch

SENSE OF TOUCH — This award-winning day spa boasts an extensive menu, featuring such services as a couple’s deep tissue and detoxifying massage, a rose hydrating cocoon body wrap and a “forever young” facial. The lush spa also offers a range of exclusive signature treatments, including the Elemis hot stone therapy for body and face. 1-5/F, 52 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2526-6918, www.senseoftouch.com.hk. THE PENINSULA SPA BY ESPA — This twofloor spa has sweeping harbor views. Designed by Henry Leung, the interior fuses contemporary and traditional Chinese elements. Much attention has been given to detail, including 100-percent Egyptian cotton robes and fully automated Clodagh Gemini treatment beds. 7/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2969-6682, www.hongkong.peninsula.com.

The Ritz-Carlton Spa

THE RITZ-CARLTON SPA BY ESPA — Get pampered at the highest hotel spa in the world. Located on the 116th floor, this relaxing retreat looms over the city and offers majestic views of Victoria Harbour. Spa guests can also take a dip in the hotel's sky-high infinity pool after their treatments. 116/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2040, www.ritzcarlton.com /hongkong. THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS — This urban sanctuary is everything you would expect from the Four Seasons: 22,000 square feet of sumptuousness, including Finnish saunas, an ice fountain, a crystal fountain, vitality pools and an amethyst crystal steam room. Two spa suites include a pool for two, day beds and a private bar. 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8900, www.fourseasons.com/hongkong.

ShopS+Services

TEN FEET TALL — Go to Ten Feet Tall for a slightly different foot massage experience in an exotic ambience. The foot massage center features bright and sunny beach cabanas with pine, bamboo, natural marble and bright décor. The place’s signature treatments include genuine foot reflexology, shoulder and neck massage, pressure point massage and aromatic oil massage. 20-21/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2971-1010, www.tenfeettall.com.hk.

HAIR AIMEE AT THE SHANGRI-LA — Staffed by international stylists offering everything from bridal makeovers, haircuts, coloring and waves to manicures, pedicures and professional makeup application. 8/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-1339. AIRPLAY BLOW DRY BAR — Get your hair and makeup done all at once at Airplay, and choose from different looks like “Sea Breeze” (wavy hair) or “Mojito” (playful curls). 7/F, W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2641-9888, www.airplaybar.com. QG PRIVATE I SALON — Located in the Four Seasons, the flagship of the Private I group is suitably beautiful, with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out onto an astounding harbor view. Expect to find yourself rubbing shoulders with politicians, tycoons and the jet set. 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 2521-0070, www.privatei.com.hk.

NAILS NAIL NAIL — This is the place for innovative nails, including gel nails, airbrushing and the truly decadent one-carat diamond manicure, which is by appointment only. It also offers waxing and temporary tattoos. Shop 1091A, 1/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2366-9322, www.nailnail.com.hk.

NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT!

NAIL SPA — Nail services and treatments for men and women are the specialty here, including French manicures and paraffin foot therapy. Gel and acrylic nails are available along with nail painting, embossed nail art, semi-precious gemstones, crystal embossing and graduated nail painting. 1/F, 8 Pak Sha Rd., Causeway Bay, 2478-9333, www.nailspa.com.hk.

Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418

www.outback.com.hk

Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823

Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan

Whampoa

The Loft

THE LOFT — A spin-off of The Nail Library in Sheung Wan, this new Central shop right by the escalators offers men’s barbering services, facials as well as hand and foot spa treatments—and of course, manicures and pedicures. 2/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2618-8623.

Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai

Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay

Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728

Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918

s e p t e m b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 33

Navigate | The Guide

Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call the Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions, plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals, as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.

Get Moving

Octopus Cards

Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.

These are “wave-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.

Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English, but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.

The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $48, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.

Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.

34 W H E R E HONG KONG I s e p t e m b e r 2 014

Navigate Buses Hong Kong has two major bus companies:

Clothes Call

Kowloon Motor Bus — 2745-4466, www.kmb.hk.

Look for these cool designers while you shop at the PMQ. By Cynthia Li, Zoe Lai

citybus / New World First BUS — 2136-8888/2873-0818, www.nwstbus.com.hk.

Sights & Attractions

Cecilia Ma

Avenue of Stars

Pomch

As the PMQ creative hub—a converted former police quarters on Aberdeen Street—officially opens its doors, we take a closer look at just a few of the shops and spaces that you need to see in Central’s coolest new hangout.

Obellery

Little Finger

His inspirations are mainly drawn from abstract and geometrical art of mid-century America, infused with his own signature minimalism. Check out the tailored black blazer with leather lapels ($3,850).

Avenue of Stars — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes' hand and footprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars, as well as a statue of Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly musicand-laser extravaganza called the 'Symphony of Lights.' Music only plays over the loudspeakers here, although the harborfront light display can be seen from around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, Tsim Sha Tsui.

S206, 6211-6680, www.harrisonwong.com.

Cecilia Ma This is designer Cecilia Ma’s second store, selling edgy jewelry and clutches. The wooden purses offer an unexpected twist to any outfit, and the necklaces are bright with intricate detailing. S503, 3690-2900, www.ceciliama.com.

The Little Finger This accessories shop sells handmade jewelry by young designers, many of which experiment with unexpected, non-traditional shapes while maintaining a minimalist feel. H206, 2803-2119, www.thelittlefinger.com.

Obellery

Pomch Launched in 2011, bag and wallet purveyor Pomch draws inspiration from industrial elements. Check out the wood saw-shaped leather shoulder bag ($488) and the VHS tape-inspired clutch ($320) to name a few of their standout pieces. Looking for something smaller? We also love the sardine tin and cassette tape wallets. S204,2546-9419, www.pomch.com.

Aly & Rachelle A graduate of Central Saint Martins, designer Christine Lam has created a line of high quality yet affordable clothing that speaks to modern Hong Kong women. S411, 9665-6065,

Obellery offers jewelry workshops by appointment, along with hand-made jewelry designed by its founders.

www.alyandrachelle.com.

H311, 2155-4198, www.obellery.com.

Bamboa’s founder Julia Washbourne uses sustainable, eco-friendly bamboo to create everything from kitchenware and bathroom accessories to clothing.

Harrison Wong Local menswear designer Harrison Wong produces edgy, aggressive designs with an understated elegance.

Bamboa Home

S304, 2291-0285, www.bamboahome.com.

Big Buddha

Big Buddha — Situated beside Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island is the Big Buddha-the largest seated outdoor bronze Buddha in the world. The statue is set amid mountains and hiking trails, and is most impressive seen while in the cable car from Tung Chung. Nearby is 'The Wisdom Path,' lined with wood carvings featuring the calligraphy from an important text for Confucians, Buddhists and Taoists. The vegetarian restaurant within the monastery is the best option if you're famished. Ngong Ping Village, Lantau Island 2985-5248. Cheung Sha Beach — Catch a ferry from Central Pier 6 to Mui Wo, then take Bus 1, 2 or 4 to Cheung Sha. Stretching for three glorious kilometers along Lantau's south coast, Cheung Sha is Hong Kong's longest beach. With silky soft sand and the towering Sunset Peak as a backdrop, it's an island paradise. Lantau Island. Chi Lin Nunnery — An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It's a 33,000-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1998. It's centered on a s e p t e m b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 35

Navigate | The Guide

courtyard filled with lotus ponds, and a stroll through the gardens makes for a bucolic escape. Vegetarian food is available in a quaint teahouse. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill 2354-1888. Duk Ling Chinese Sailing Junk — Launched in 1955, the Duk Ling is one of the last authentic sailing junks in Hong Kong. It can carry up to 36 passengers. 2573-5282. Fa Yuen Street — Heaving with bargain hunters every afternoon, Fa Yuen Street is stuffed with cheap fashion boutiques, factory outlets and accessories stores for men, women and children. Fa Yuen St., Prince Edward.

Kowloon Park — Bang in the middle of Tsim Sha Tsui is this surprisingly spacious and tranquil park. Set over 13.5 acres, it features a Chinese garden, flamingo pond, maze and sculpture garden, as well as sports grounds and pitches, an aviary and one of the best swimming pool complexes in Hong Kong, with indoor and outdoor pools and an excellent sports center. Haiphong Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. Ladies' Market — Find dog toys, trinkets and accessories, racy underwear, costume jewelry and more all along this road. Down the side lanes are vintage shops, fashion outlets and the occasional restaurant. Tung Choi St., Mong Kok. Yau Ma Tei MTR, Exit A2. Open daily noon-11:30pm.

Sam’s The Man (Just ask his customers)

Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon. Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147

Hong Kong Disneyland

Hong Kong Disneyland — Take a trip back to the 1900s on Main Street, catch a train to Fantasyland, float down the Rivers of Adventure, catch a show or blast through outer space in Tomorrowland. When you're done charting your exotic surroundings take a moment to dine, shop or cavort with the various Disney characters who roam the park. The nightly fireworks are a must-see. It's easy to get to via MTR or bus Fantasy Rd., Lantau Island, 1-830-830. Hong Kong Park — This eight-hectare park has a large walk-through aviary, a conservatory housing unusual and exotic plants, sports and squash centers, a multistory playground, a tai chi garden and a clock tower. In the conservation corner are more than 100 species of dragonfly. Also worth visiting are the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware and the Hong Kong Visual Arts Centre. 19 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2521-5041.

This could be yours in

HONG KONG For Advertising rates and further information. Call 2850 5678 36 W H E R E HONG KONG I s e p t e m b e r 2 014

Hong Kong Wetland Park — Wetland Park Road, Tin Shui Wai, 3152-2666, www.wetlandpark.com. Open 10am5pm, Closed Tue. This world-class ecotourism attraction demonstrates the diversity of Hong Kong's wetlands, and the importance of conservation. It's a 61-hectare site with user-friendly facilities such as a stream walk, succession walk, mangrove boardwalk and bird hides. The galleries include displays about wetlands worldwide, a television studio and various exhibitions. Wetland Park Rd., Tin Shui Wai, 3152-2666. Jade Market — In Chinese culture, jade is associated with good health and a long life. The jade market stalls sell everything from expensive carved jade to cheap trinkets, as well as pearls and other jewelry of varying quality.

Lan Kwai Fong

Lan Kwai Fong — Thankfully closed to cars most of the time, these thoroughfares are jam-packed full of bars and nightclubs, with revelers spilling out into the streets at all hours. Attracting yuppies and visitors like moths to a flame, a good night out in Lan Kwai Fong is almost guaranteed. Lan Kwai Fong, near D'Aguilar Street, Central. Mai Po Marshes — Who knew that Hong Kong was a bird-watchers' paradise The 1,500-hectare Mai Po Marshes reserve is run by the World Wildlife Fund and is a designated Wetland of International Importance thanks to the thousands of migratory wading birds who pass through each autumn and winter. Mai Po Nature Reserve, Yuen Long 2482-0369

Man Mo Temple

Man Mo Temple — This atmospheric temple must be one of the most photographed in Hong Kong. Great incense spirals dangle from the rafters, filling the roof space with aromatic smoke and lending a deep patina to the statues of gods Man Cheong (god of literature) and Kuan Ti (god of martial arts, or Mo) on the altars. Locals burn paper offerings to their ancestors in the huge urns outside; pick up some Bank of Hell money or even a paper Mercedes from shops nearby. 126 Hollywood Rd., near Ladder Street, Sheung Wan.

Navigate Repulse Bay — Hong Kong Island. Take Bus 6A, 6X or 260 from Exchange Square in Central or 973 from Tsim Sha Tsui.With soft imported sand and consistent water quality, this grade-one beach is one of the most popular in Hong Kong. That means it gets very busy on summer weekends, but rarely at other times. Much quieter is smaller South Bay, a short taxi ride away at the end of South Bay Road.

Ngong Ping 360

Ngong Ping 360 — This cultural-themed village features dining, retail and entertainment attractions such as Walking with Buddha, Monkey's Tale Theatre and the Ngong Ping Garden Restaurant. The cable car offers panoramic views as it passes over North Lantau Country Park to the Big Buddha. 111 Ngong Ping Rd., Lantau Island 3666-0606. Noonday Gun — Immortalized by Noel Coward in his song 'Mad Dogs and Englishmen,' the Noonday Gun has been fired at midday since the founding days of the colony. It belongs to local trading corporation Jardine Matheson, which was ordered to fire a daily time signal by the Royal Navy as a penalty for workers firing a salute (usually reserved for government officials) to the head of the company. Catch it daily on the Causeway Bay waterfront, opposite The Excelsior Hotel. Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter, Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2508-1234. Ocean Park — Get up close and personal with a dolphin or a panda, walk through a shark tank, dive into a coral reef or whirl upside down on a roller coaster. Located near Aberdeen, Ocean Park manages to amuse and educate with its marine and bird life exhibits, giant panda enclosure, wild headland rides, and a cable car trip between the park's two parts. 180 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 2552-0291.

Shek O — Hong Kong Island. Take Bus 9 from the Shau Kei Wan MTR station.A wide beach on the eastern shores of Hong Kong Island, separated from the city by a twisting, 40-minute drive. Shek O is a laid-back haven popular with surfers, who kick back here after riding the waves at nearby Big Wave Bay. Sha Tin Racecourse — Join the screaming hordes at Happy Valley and Sha Tin racecourses for a few adrenalin-fueled hours. Mingle with the masses in the stands, or opt for the more refined atmosphere in the boxes. The season runs September to mid-June, with about 700 races a year held an average of twice a week. The Hong Kong Jockey Club is non-profit-making, donating over HK$1 billion a year to local charities.

Temple Street Night Market — Jordan MTR Station, Exit A. Open daily 4pmmidnight. This night market comes alive at around 6pm and sells everything from cheap watches to cute accessories and souvenirs. Local amateur musicians perform Cantonese opera on weekends. Stalls with fortune tellers and outdoor restaurants line the shopping area, too. Make sure to drive a hard bargain. Temple Street, Jordan.

Peak Tram

Peak Tram — There was a time when the best way up the Peak was by sedan chair-a grueling experience, particularly for the bearers. So the arrival of the Peak Tram was a blessing, one for which we are still thankful. The little funicular railway is one of the best trips in town, panting up Hong Kong Island's tallest mountain at a seemingly impossible angle that enchants all aboard. Sit on the right for the best views. St. Joseph's Building, Central, 2522-0922.

Ten Thousand Buddhas

Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800

Wong Tai Sin Temple — Named after the deity Wong Tai Sin, this Taoist temple completed its restoration in 1973 and is a popular shrine for local pilgrims who want to glimpse their future via a Chinese practice called kau cim. Lung Cheung Rd., Wong Tai Sin, 2327-8141.

Embassies & Consulates

Stanley — The seaside township of Stanley has a market, shops, restaurants and bars that line a bay on one side and a beach on the other. It's the perfect place to take a walk along the waterfront, chill at an alfresco resto and pick up some souvenirs. Stanley Main St., Stanley Tai O — It would be wishful thinking to describe this fishing village as a 'Venice of the East,' but there's no doubting the charm of its maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the northwestern coast of Lantau Island. It's a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, trays of smelly shrimp paste, a picturesque Tin Hau Temple at the end of a causeway and a couple of interesting little museums. A boutique hotel and restaurant add a touch of colonial elegance to the traditional town.

Buddhas stored in five temples, four pavilions and a nine-story pagoda. The one that you're likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin, 2691-1067.

Argentina 2523-3208; Australia 2827-8881; Bangladesh 2827-4278; Belgium 2524-3111; Brazil 2525-7002; Canada 3719-4700; Chile 2827-1826; China (China Travel) 2853-3888; Colombia 2545-8547; Czech Republic 28022212; Egypt 2827-0668; Finland 2525-5385; France 3752-9900; Germany 2105-8788; Greece 2774-1682; India 3970-9900; Israel 2821-7500; Italy 2522-0033; Japan 25221184; Korea 2529-4141; Laos 2544-1186; Malaysia 2821-0800; Mexico 2511-3305; Netherlands 2522-9200; New Zealand 25255044; Pakistan 2827-0295; Philippines 28238501; Peru 2868-2622; Poland 2840-0779; Russia 2877-7188; Singapore 2527-2212; Spain 2525-3041; Sweden 2521-1212; Switzerland 3509-5000; Taiwan 2530-1187; Thailand 2521-6481; Turkey 2572-1331; United Arab Emirates 2866-1823; United Kingdom 29013000; USA 2523-9011; Venezuela 2730-8099; Vietnam 2591-4510.

Financial Matters Generally, business hours are weekdays 9am-5pm, with a lunch hour from 1pm-2pm, and Saturdays 9am-1pm. The local currency is the Hong Kong dollar. There is no central mint; instead, notes are issued by three separate private banks and the city’s Monetary Authority. The Hong Kong dollar is pegged to the US dollar at a rate of approximately US$1 to HK$7.75. Denominations include $10, $20, $50, $100, $500 and $1,000 notes. Coins come in denominations of 10, 20 and 50 cents, and one, two, five and 10 dollars. BANKS — Major banks are open weekdays 9am-4:30pm, and Saturdays 9am-12:30pm. Banks are closed Sundays and public holidays. Some services, such as foreign exchange-related transactions, are not available at banks one hour before closing. The following details are for the banks’ main offices, call for retail locations: Bank of America, 41/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 2847-5222; Citibank, Citibank Tower, 3 Garden Rd., Central, 2868-8888; HSBC, 1 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2233-3000; Standard Chartered Bank, 4 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2886-8868. s e p t e m b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 37

Walking Tours | The Guide

An EverChanging Landscape Walking through Wan Chai, you’d never know that 100 years ago, you would have been standing in water. Follow this guided walk and stroll through land brought into existence by separate reclamation projects, plus the nightlife district made famous (or infamous) by Suzie Wong.

Y Start at the Wan Chai MTR Station, Exit A3, and cross Johnston Road.

Tai Yuen Street Market

The Blue House The Blue House, listed as Wah Tor Hospital in records dating back to 1872, was also known as the Wah Tor Temple and is believed to be the first facility to provide traditional Chinese medicine to local inhabitants. This is about where the coastline was from 1842 to 1890. Y Walk back down Stone Nullah Lane to Queen’s Road East, and turn left.

(618-906 AD). He encouraged scientific study and is said to have helped traders and fishermen avoid natural disasters. Open 8am-5:30pm daily. Y Cross Queen’s Road East and head down Tai Wong Street East until you reach Johnston Road.

Southorn Playground

Old Wan Chai Post Office

Experience the hustle and bustle of a local market where on-street hawkers sell a wide range of dry goods and household merchandise at bargain prices. Stalls are open from 7am to 7pm daily. Y Walk straight up Tai Yuen Street, then turn left and walk along Queen’s Road East to Wan Chai Road. Cross Queen’s Road East and turn onto Stone Nullah Lane. 38 W H E R E HONG KONG I S e p t e m b e r 2 014

This single-story, L-shaped building, constructed between 1912 and 1913, was once a police station. In 1915, it became the Wan Chai Post Office. Listed as a Declared Monument in 1990, it is now a resource center belonging to the Environmental Protection Department. Y Continue along Queen’s Road East.

Hung Shing Temple Once only a small altar on a boulder overlooking the shoreline, this petite temple is named after a virtuous official who governed during the Tang dynasty

This popular playground was built on reclaimed land just north of Johnston Road. The British Navy used it during World War II. Later, in the 1950s and 60s, schoolchildren had their lessons here, and laborers gathered waiting for jobs. In the 1950s, it was fenced off and became a government-sanctioned playground. Now you’re where the coastline was from 1930 to 1945.

Y Cut across Southorn Garden to Hennessy Road, then walk along Luard Road to Lockhart Road.

Lockhart Road The “World of Suzie Wong” and the bars of Wan Chai are now mixed up with trendy restaurants, bars and late-night party places. The coastline extended up to here from 1960 to 1972. Y Walk along Fenwick Street towards the water and cross the footbridge.

Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts This institution offers professional training in the performing arts and hosts a wide variety of concerts. Y Follow the directional signs and cross Fenwick Street to reach Harbour Road.

Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre One of the city’s most unmistakable sights because of its gull-shaped roof. Land was reclaimed in 1980 to build it. Y Follow the directional signs, turn left and walk northward along Fleming Road and Expo Drive East to Golden Bauhinia Square.

Golden Bauhinia Square The “forever blooming bauhinia,” standing on the Expo Promenade outside the convention center on land reclaimed in 1990, is a gift from the central government to commemorate the establishment of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region on July 1, 1997, after the handover from Britain. Nearby stands the Reunification Monument. Catch the official daily flag-raising at Golden Bauhinia Square from 7:50am to 8:03am. Y For more Hong Kong walks, visit www.discoverhongkong.com or call the HKTB hotline on 2508-1234.

HONG KONG TAKE HONG KONG WITH YOU, EVER YOUR TRAVELS MAY TAKE YOU. Subscribe to WHERE Hong Kong’s eBook edition and have every issue delivered straight to your inbox once monthly. tiny.cc/whk-ebook s e p t e m b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 39

map of Central ÂŠ OpenStreetMap contributors. See openstreetmap.org

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30 Things we LOve about Hong Kong 1

1 Counting the Ten Thousand

9 Shaking fortune-telling

Buddhas at this peaceful hilltop monastery near Sha Tin.

bamboo sticks at the Wong Tai Sin Temple.

2 Dressing up for high tea at

!0 Saying hi to Bruce Lee at the Avenue of Stars, Tsim Sha Tsui.

The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2969-6772.

3 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach, Lantau Island.

4 Having our palms read at the Temple Street night market, Yau Ma Tei.

5 Spotting endangered white dolphins with Dolphinwatch off Lantau Island, 2984-1414.

6 Going on thrill rides and petting pandas at Ocean Park. Aberdeen, 3923-2323.

7 Dining aboard the kitschy-cool Jumbo Floating Restaurant. Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen, 2553-9111.

8 Cruising Victoria Harbour on the Duk Ling, an authentic Chinese fishing junk, 2573-5282.

!1 Shopping at Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. !2 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. Gough Street, Central. !3 Hiking around the beautiful Sai Kung Peninsula. !4 Riding the cable car 5.7 kilometers over Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Tian Tan Buddha (Big Buddha). !5 Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei. !6 Queing for coveted dim sum at Tim Ho Wan. Shop 12A, Hong Kong Station (Podium Level 1, IFC Mall, Central, 2332-3078). !7 Setting your watch by the Noonday Gun. 221 Gloucester Rd. (opposite The Excelsior), Causeway Bay.

42 W H E R E HONG KONG I s e p t e m b e r 2 014

!8 Snaking through the high-rises on the Mid-Levels Escalator—the longest in the world. Cochrane, Shelley and Peel Streets, Central. !9 Being close to nature at the Hong Kong Wetland Park. Tin Shui Wai, New Territories, 3152-2666. @0 Taking the Peak Tram to visit Hong Kong celebrities at Madame Tussauds. Shop P101, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., 2849-6966. @1 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 23-25 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. @2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building to be constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, Kowloon, 23541888. @3 Taking the oldest ride in Hong Kong—a tram from Western District to Causeway Bay.

@4 Enjoying free traditional kung fu demonstrations and cultural performances at Kowloon Park every Sunday from 2:30-4:30pm, weather permitting. @5 Taking a romantic trip from Central to Tsim Sha Tsui on the famous Star Ferry. @6 Taking a walk down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defence, 2569-1500. @7 Drinking in the view at panoramic bar Aqua Spirit. 30/F, One Peking, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. @8 Checking out the old Kowloon-Canton Railway Corporation clocktower. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. @9 Getting a shave and a trim at the Mandarin Barber. 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2522-0111. #0 Bird-watching at the Mai Po Nature Reserve, Mai Po, 2526-4473.

Arch Angel Authenticated museum quality Asian antiquities. 53/55 Hollywood Road • Central • Hong Kong • Tel: (852) 2851 6848 • Fax: (852) 2851 6778 • Open Daily: 9:30-6:30 Email: antiques@ArchAngelAntiques.com.hk