december 2014 the complete guide to go
®
Hong Kong
New Year’s Eve Parties Pianist Lang Lang in Hong Kong Explore Central’s historical buildings
Winter Wonderland Christmas markets and beautiful mall displays
where Hong Kong 12.2014 ®
the guide
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06 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events
16 art + culture Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening
20 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town
26 Drinks Our favorite places to sip a cocktail
38 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot
40 Map Central, Hong Kong Island
Also inside 28 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers
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features 08 a Lang Time Coming Pianist Lang Lang in Hong Kong
10 Deck the Malls Christmas displays
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32 Industrial Revolution Explore Lai Chi Kok
32 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info 42 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences
on the cover Hong Kong is a pretty exciting city to be in during Christmas. The malls come alive with festive decorations, and pop-ups selling exclusive seasonal goods, like Santa Pop (on the cover), will keep you shopping till you drop. See p.10 for more.
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D e c e m b e r 2 0 14 I WHERE h ong k o n g 3
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Painted Pottery Fat Lady Figure Tang Dynasty
early pottery ceramics sculptures authenticated museum and collector quality
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hot dates Hong Kong By Evelyn Lok and Andrea Lo
Dec 12-14 A Chance of Rain Creator of the acclaimed Hong Kong martial arts graphic novel series “Storm Clouds,� Ma Wing-shing, takes up the role of Art Director in this brand new production by the Hong Kong Dance company. Get in quick for tickets to this phenomenal translation to stage. Dec 12-14, 7:45pm; 13-14, 3pm. Grand Theatre, Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $160-360 from www.urbtix.hk.
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hot dates Through Dec 31
Dec 12-13
Festive Browsing
Christmas Yummies Great Food Hall’s Christmas Delicacies Extravaganza is offering a range of Christmas gift sets that will please even the pickiest of foodies. Over the festive season, you can pick up the likes of truffle chocolate chips from the Chocolat Mathez Fantasy Collection and Tai Tai Pie Pie’s Christmas selections. Of course, all the usual Christmas dinner components will be available: turkey, gingerbread cakes and the like.
PMQ’s alfresco space will play host to a Christmas Night Market, featuring warm food and drinks, as well as ample opportunity to shop for gifts in the various stalls dotted around the area. All day. PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central. Free entry.
Dec 12-21
Great Food Hall, Shop 9, LG1/F, Two Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty.
Dec 4
Dec 4-18
For Your Man Candlelit Christmas
Fixer Upper
Santa and the angels are teaming up with six Christmas choirs at the Carols by Candlelight Charity Concert. Alongside live performances, a Santa’s grotto will be set up, as well as stalls offering nibbles and some last-minute Christmas shopping.
Learn how to create pom-poms, tassels and dream catchers, while tucking into mulled wine and Christmas treats at Tang Tang Tang Tang’s Ultimate Christmas DIY Workshop.
6-8pm. Matilda International Hospital, 41 Mount Kellett Rd., The Peak, 2849-0355. Free.
Dec 4, 11 & 18, 5pm, 6pm & 7pm. 66 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2525-2112. $180 from stylebrief. bigcartel.com.
With so many Christmas markets around town dedicated to womenswear, Voxfire Gallery is coming to the rescue with the #ForHim Holiday Bazaar. You’ll find hipster-tastic frames by Classico, watches from Simplus Leather, Christmas-themed socks from Nori Socks, and many more brands to peruse. Mon-Fri 2-8pm; Sat-Sun noon-8pm. 1/F, 52 Gage St., Central, 2581-3385.
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hot dates Hong Kong Dec 13
Dec 18-19
Dec 21
Piano Prince
A Lang Time Coming
Maksim Most
Yundi Li has become a household name since winning the prestigious XIV Chopin International Piano Competition at the tender age of 18. Since then he’s become perhaps the biggest modern proponent of Chopin’s music, gaining a huge fan base from all over the world. He plays Hong Kong’s Coliseum for the first time this December—don’t miss it!
Piano superstar Lang Lang barely needs introduction; He takes the stage this December for an epic presentation of piano concertos with the HK Philharmonic and Principal Conductor Jaap Van Zweden. It’ll be two very different affairs on the two evenings: the spotlight will be on Mozart’s famed last piano concerto on the first night, and on the romance of Tchaikovsky’s works on the second.
The Croatian-born pianist Maksim Mrvica is known for his lightning fast playing, for blending upbeat dance rhythms into classical music, and most of all, for his goth-rock bad boy image which earned him a huge following in Asia. See the man performing in Hong Kong for the first time, accompanied by his band. He’s only playing for one day, so get your tickets quick—they’re sure to be snapped up in a flash.
8:15pm. Hong Kong Coliseum, 9 Cheong Wan Rd., Hung Hom. $250-1250 from www.urbtix.hk.
8pm. Concert Hall, Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $480-1,980 from www.urbtix.hk.
4pm. Hall 5G, HKCEC, 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai. $380-880 from www.hkticketing.com.
Through Dec 24
Dec 25-29
Dec 30-31
Saint Nick’s House
Foodies, Unite
Auld Lang Syne
Events space Little Square will be decked out like Santa’s grotto for Santa Pop, showcasing a range of products perfect for gifting. Take your pick from tabletop decorations and glass ornaments to resin Christmas trees. What’s more, freshly baked goods will be served twice a day.
Kicking off on Christmas Day, the 12th Hong Kong Food Festival will see more than 500 exhibitors serving various international cuisines. Foodies—don’t miss out!
Ring in the New Year with a bit of culture and class—The HK Phil presents their staple New Year’s Eve concert “New Year in Vienna.” It’ll be a sensational program of waltzes and polkas by the likes of Shostakovich, Beethoven, and Strauss, rounding off to a mellow New Year with “The Blue Danube Waltz.”
Nov 27-Dec 24, 10:30am-8:30pm. Little Square, 21 Square St., Sheung Wan. Free entry.
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HKCEC, 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, $20 at the door.
8pm. Concert Hall, Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $180-480 from www.urbtix.hk.
F rom all of us at MS B’S CAKERY & C’EST LA B We wish you a
F estive S eason filled with
S weetness!
H A R B O U R CITY · PACIFIC PLACE
w w w. msbscakery.hk
Deck the Malls Celebrate Christmas the Hong Kong way—by heading to a decked-out mall near you. By Yannie Chan
Pacific Place If you prefer something more traditional, Pacific Place’s Dickensian-style installation may be for you. Respected figurine designer Victorian Charm has created handcrafted architectural displays of 19th-century England, featuring popular characters from Charles Dickens novels. Look out for pop-up stores from miniature figurines maker King & Country and Chapon Chocolatier selling limited-edition goodies. There’ll be late-night shopping hours every Thursdays in December, and each week’s top three spenders can redeem special gift sets and Asia Miles. Register first to participate. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8900.
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Elements Head to the high-end West Kowloon shopping mall for a nostalgic Christmas experience: the theme this year is vintage trains. Feast your eyes on the display of exquisite model trains running around the mall’s 9-meter tall Christmas tree. Teaming up with UK model train company Hornby, the mall is also showcasing classic train models and more than 100 pieces from local collectors. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234.
IFC Look forward to an avant-garde festive installation at this Central mall this Christmas. Bringing in Dutch architect Igor Kebel and 3D visual artist John Kerr, IFC is showcasing some awe-inspiring creations, including an over-12-meter-tall steel structure celebrating Asian culture and a kaleidoscopic snow mountain with programmed lighting effects. Hong Kong music critic Wong Chi-chung provides the perfect finishing touches with a custom playlist. From now until December 26, shoppers spending $8,500 or above can redeem a gift from Danish luxury brand Georg Jensen. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308.
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K11 Do you feel like most mall decorations are too bright and happy? Look no further than K11’s provocative “Wawadoll Is X’mas Data” exhibition by post-80s artist Tianzhuo Chen that examines the absurdities of urban youth culture. Also check out the interactive multimedia art installations by Hong Kong Design Institute students. If you’ve spent $1,000 or more, don’t forget to take part in the Christmas lucky draw, which goes until Jan 4. The grand prizes include a 4-day-3-night Singapore & Malaysia Fly Cruise Package and a 2-night stay at Pentahotel Hong Kong, Kowloon. 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3118-8070.
Olympian City The super-mall right above the Olympic MTR station is collaborating with Playmobil to put together a Christmas town using giant toy figures. The town includes a festive Christmas house and a market selling snacks. Be sure to catch a ride on the Playmobil carousel and pose with the 15-meter-tall Christmas tree. Shoppers spending $800 or above are able to redeem a Playmobil figure, and those spending $4,000 or above can get a Playmobil sled carousel toy set. 18 Hoi Ting Rd., West Kowloon, 2740-4108.
Festival Walk Enjoy a festive day with the Kowloon Tong shopping and entertainment complex’s fairytale-like Christmas installations, featuring royal palace decorations, sparkling trees and a regal carriage. The tallest indoor Christmas tree is of course making a comeback, but here’s something new: the mall has invited world-renowned “upside-down” performer Kai Leclerc to put on a humorous act. From now until December 26, shoppers spending $4,000 or more are entitled to a bottle of red wine and lucky draw ticket. The grand prize of the the lucky draw? A brand new Audi A5 sportback, worth $479,800. 80 Tat Chee Avenue, Kowloon Tong, 2844-2223.
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Harbour City One of the city’s largest shopping complexes, Harbour City is celebrating Christmas by putting in place a Christmas train station at its harborfront entrance, complete with a giant steam locomotive, carriages and a nearby staircase ceiling covered with star-shaped ornaments. Donate $20 to the Hong Kong Blood Cancer Foundation to board the enchanted train. Make sure to also check out the adorable installation featuring 30 British cartoon Shaun the Sheep figurines. Spend $1,000 or above and donate $40 to the blood cancer foundation and you can redeem a fun Shaun the Sheep calendar. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8886.
WTC More
Times Square
This Causeway Bay complex has a diverse mix of trendy and mainstream stores, as well as a tradition for edgy installations. Collaborating with LA streetwear label Joyrich, WTC More’s Christmas display this year is young and stylish: check out the giant teddy bear and a striking 7-meter tall Christmas tree that plays with light and reflections. A pop-up store selling Joyrich items like beanies and sweaters will be open through Jan 1. Shoppers who spend $2,500 are able to redeem a Joyrich clutch bag.
This popular shopping mall is best known for its elaborate Christmas decorations, and this year’s is no exception. Times Square is putting together a magical winter world that lets you experience Christmas as a Liliputian. Take a stroll in a forest of 28 naturally grown Christmas trees, and don’t miss the special train ride, with carts shaped like a giant festive ornament, around the outdoor piazza. The exhibition will run through Jan 1. The shopping complex has over 230 shopping choices and over 20 restaurants.
280 Goucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2576-4121.
1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.
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Sponsored Feature
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the guide Season’s Treatings Parisian confectioner Pierre Herme has created a colorful range of holiday macarons in strange and wonderful flavors, just in time for Christmas. Try the zesty green apple variety (pictured) or be more adventurous and go for the foie gras, fig and wild rose combo. Classic winter flavors like marron glace (candied chestnut) are also available. Shop 1019C, IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 2833-5700.
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Art+culture | The Guide
Making History Two fascinating exhibitions that bring to light rare views of humanity. By Evelyn Lok
Divine Intervention Two key archaeological finds come to Hong Kong this winter at the Asia Society in “Temple, Scrolls and Divine Messengers”: the Gabriel Revelation Stone and the Isaiah Scroll, the oldest and most well-kept of all the Dead Sea Scrolls (sadly, it's just a replica). These two artifacts and 50 other relics on loan from the Israel Museum in Jerusalem will illustrate the history of Judaism in the 200 years surrounding the birth of Christ, as well as the lives and customs of the citizens of Jerusalem at the time. Through Jan 25, 2015. Asia Society, 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511. Closed Mondays; $30 entry (free last Thursday of month).
The Grand Master Social documentary photographer Sebastião Salgado is showing a selection of iconic work at Sundaram Tagore Gallery through December. You'll be able to cast your eyes on more than 35 photos from across different series, including works from "Genesis" which focuses on the untouched corners of the globe; and "Workers and Migrations," which looks at the mass displacement of people at the turn of the 21st century as a result of population growth, war, natural disasters… that kind of cozy stuff. Through Dec 31. Sundaram Tagore Gallery, 57-59 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2581-9672.
Antiques
art galleries
Arch Angel Antiques — The three-story shop houses large collections of Qing dynasty porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic sculptures and buddhas from China and SouthEastern Asia are found in the viewing galleries, plus over 200 paintings in the extensive ancestral scroll collection. 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848.
10 Chancery Lane Gallery — Established in 2001, this gallery focuses on established and emerging artists from around the world. Consisting of three large gallery spaces, it not only holds exhibitions of paintings, photographs, installations and videos, but also performances by renowned artists. Featured Hong Kong artists include anothermountainman, Frog King, and MAP Office. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, Central, 2810-0065.
Lam & Co Antiques — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silver ware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offers repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services. 2/F, 151 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877. Oi Ling Antiques — Oi Ling's Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items dating as far back as the Neolithic era. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2964-0554.
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1A Space — Founded in 1998, 1a Space is one of the city’s leading contemporary visual art organizations. Located in a former cattle shed, it's an independent, non-profit venture established by local artists. It encourages interaction between the art community and the public through exhibitions, seminars, festivals and cultural exchange programs. Unit 14, Cattle Depot Artist Village, 63 Ma Tau Kok Rd., To Kwa Wan, 2529-0087. AP Contemporary — AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and
China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2118. Above Second — Open since 2010, Above Second adds a slice of urban attitude to the city's vibrant art scene by showing work straight from the streets. With a non-stop lineup of international artists in residency, you'll see everything from graffiti to graphic design, pop culture to street art here. 9 First St., Sai Ying Pun, 3483-7950. Agnès b. Librairie Galerie — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnès B. has a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world. G/F, 118 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2869-5505. Alisan Fine Arts — This well-established gallery has organized hundreds of exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world. It also mounts exhibitions for overseas venues. Room 2305, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091.
You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.
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Art+culture Art Beatus Gallery — Established in the early 1990s, Art Beatus features mainly original paintings and art by contemporary Chinese artists. Most of its collection has a retro slant, and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoon as vehicles for expression. Has a branch in Vancouver. G/F, 129-133 Wellington St., Central, 2526-0818.
Gagosian Gallery — With 14 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. It opened its doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an all-new exhibition by Damien Hirst—Gagosian only exhibits the crème-de-la-crème of the art world. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555.
Lumenvisum — Established in 2007, the non-profit arts organization Lumenvisum has been dedicated to promoting photographic arts in Hong Kong. It hosts regular themed exhibitions, lectures, photography classes and social events at its gallery space at the JCCAC Arts Village. L2-10, 30 Pak Tin St., Shek Kip Mei, 3177-9159.
Asia Fine Art — Dedicated to promoting young Asian artists at affordable prices, this gallery has regular exhibitions of work from China, Vietnam, Indonesia and Myanmar for sale on site and online. G/F, 14 Sik On St., Wan Chai, 2522-0405.
Galerie Koo — Founded in 2012, Galerie Koo focuses on contemporary art that's all about beauty and colors, and represents established and rising star artists from across Europe and Asia. 7/F, Vogue Building, 67 Wyndham St., Central, 2525-0331.
Mur Nomade — Founded in 2012 by curator Amandine Hervey, Mur Nomade is a curatorial office and gallery based in Aberdeen. It holds regular exhibitions mainly showing work from local contemporary artists, as well as many site-specific shows all across Hong Kong. Room 1606, 16/F, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen.
Asia Society Gallery
Asia Society Gallery — Asia Society Hong Kong's expansive headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences—97 percent of which are open to the public—the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511. Ben Brown Fine Arts — After 10 years at Sotheby’s and two more at a private gallery, Ben Brown and his wife sought to create a space that housed pieces reflective of their tastes— primarily modern and contemporary European artworks. Room 301, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2522-9600. Blindspot Gallery — Blindspot Gallery has relocated from Central to this larger industrial warehouse in Aberdeen, on the south side of Hong Kong Island. It's the setting for large scale exhibitions, private viewings and special events. 15/F, Po Chai Industrial Building, 28 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 2517-6238. Contemporary by Angela Li — Perhaps best known for introducing Chinese artists Chen Jiagang and Liao Yibai to the art world, CBAL boasts a lovely space and carefully curated exhibitions. G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 3571-8200. De Sarthe Gallery — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the US and Europe, De Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, Club Lusitano Building, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896. Espace Louis Vuitton — LV has been invading gallery spaces for the past half decade, stirring unrest in the hearts of hard-line art critics but appreciation in the eyes of those beholders who’re able to look past reservations about brand-name commercialism. Louis Vuitton Mansion, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 8100-1182.
Galerie du Monde
Galerie du Monde — Specializing in modern and contemporary Chinese art, and a champion of up-and-coming talents, Galerie du Monde is known for innovative exhibits that cross mediums: from sculpture to photography, paper media to canvas. Room 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Centre, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529. Grotto Fine Art — Curated by Henry Auyeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery exclusively represents local Chinese artists, with a particular interest in the new and avant-garde art forms. You'll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixed-media and conceptual installation pieces. 31C-D, 2/F, Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270.
New Gallery on Old Bailey — Established in 1999, the gallery aims to promote contemporary Chinese fine art. It exhibits the work of well-established artists in a variety of styles—namely realism, surrealism, still-life, portraiture and modern abstraction. The gallery has an exhibition program and also gives advice to corporate clients about art commissioning and acquisition. 4/F, Kai Tak, 35 Tai Yau St., San Po Kong, 2234-9889. Puerta Roja — Puerta Roja was established to promote Latin American art and artists to the Hong Kong audience. Drawings, etchings, glasswork and sculptures are all featured here. Shop A, G/F, Wai Yue Building, 15-17 New St., Sheung Wan, 2803-0332. Red Square Gallery — Red Square Gallery is a window into Contemporary Russian Art. Expanding into four branches, the gallery is dedicated to bringing creative and dynamic artwork to Hong Kong. Shop 2, G/F, Stanley Plaza, 1A Wong Nai Chung Rd., Happy Valley, 2838-0040.
Hanart TZ Gallery — A specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by internationally recognized mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone. Room 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019.
Sin Sin Fine Art — The gallery represents and promotes mainland and Southeast Asian artists and photographers, with a focus on Chinese, Indonesian and Thai works of art. G/F, 53-54 Sai St., Sheung Wan, 2858-5072. The Popsy Room — Jennifer Chung, the founder of this unique art space, firmly believes that art should be experienced through all our senses. Hence all exhibitions, featuring local and international artists, cater to vision, sound, smell, and particularly taste: coinciding with the exhibitions every two months is an art-food pairing menu, which patrons can book for a private dining experience. G/F, 30 Upper Lascar Row, Sheung Wan, 2234-6711.
Lehmann Maupin
Lehmann Maupin — With the original branch in New York and with its reputation of supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery opened its doors here on March 14. Architect Rem Koolhaas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Unit 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2530-0025.
Wattis Fine Art — Specializes in antique maps of Asia, and historical photographs and prints of China, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia. 2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302. White Cube — One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first nonUK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor,
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Art+culture | The Guide Law Uk Folk Museum — Law Uk, which means "Law’s House" after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. Free admission. Closed Thursdays. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006.
confrontational nature and use of disposable materials—for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. 50 Connaught Rd. Central, 2592-2000. Zee Stone Gallery — Zee Stone, established in 1991, exhibits a wide range of contemporary artists from mainland China, using both ink and color on paper and oil on canvas. The gallery’s exhibitions reflect the rich diversity of contemporary Chinese art, including abstract landscapes, realistic portraits, paintings on rice paper by traditionally trained Chinese masters and new work by a younger generation in acrylic and mixed media. G/F, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2810-5895.
museums Flagstaff House Museum of Teaware — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-in-chief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Hong Kong Park, 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2869-0690. Hong Kong 3D Museum — Whip out those selfie sticks and get your cameras ready: a visit to the HK3D museum is all about playing with its numerous trick of the eye effect exhibits, where you can explore Hong Kong's culture. Here you can jump into a panda enclosure or cling precariously onto the Bank of China tower, among many other fun props and poses. 1/F, Hilton Tower, 96 Granville Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-9720.
Hong Kong Maritime Museum
Hong Kong Maritime Museum — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong's growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier No. 8, Man Kwong St., Central, 3713-2500. Hong Kong Museum of Art — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works. Closed Thursdays. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042. Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence — Don’t let the name put you off, this is a great little museum. Set in a 19thcentury British fort with spectacular views of the Lei Yue Mun channel, it features the original restored batteries and camouflaged cannons under a new tented canopy. The museum also houses artifacts and costumes from Hong Kong’s military past. A gentle trail leads to the sea, giving a sense of how the British patrolled for pirates and other enemies of the colony. Closed Thursdays. 175 Tung Hei Rd., Shau Kei Wan, 2569-1500. Hong Kong Museum of History — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. But it’s the reconstruction of a post-war street, complete with tram and traveling Chinese opera company, that really grabs the attention. Closed Tuesdays except for public holidays. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042.
Hong Kong Film Archive
Hong Kong Film Archive — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Thursdays. 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139. Hong Kong Heritage Museum — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. Permanent exhibitions on the New Territories and Cantonese opera, plus a Children’s Discovery Gallery of natural and cultural history, including toy-making. Closed Tuesdays and public holidays. 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188. 18 W H E R E HONG KONG I d e c e m b e r 2 014
Hong Kong Science Museum — Great for kids thanks to about 500 permanent exhibits that explore all aspects of science and technology, including robotics, virtual reality and transportation. Best of all, about 70 percent of the displays are interactive, meaning the little ones can play with them. A popular feature is the 20-meter-high energy machine. Closed Thursdays. 2 Science Museum Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2732-3232. Hong Kong Space Museum — Explore the final frontier at the Space Museum and learn all about astronomy and space technology. One of the largest planetariums in the world features daily Omnimax screenings and Sky shows. Closed Tuesdays. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0226.
Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, the Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum is one of the city’s most fascinating monuments. Closed Thursdays. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863. Liang Yi Museum — Liang Yi is dedicated to promoting Chinese antique arts: you'll find over 300 pieces of treasured furniture, ceramics and knickknacks here—they're some of the best examples from the Ming and Qing dynasties that still remain. Catch Liang Y's distinguished lectures held on every first Tuesday of the month. Closed Sundays, Mondays, and public holidays. Admission costs $200. 181-199 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2806-8280. Madame Tussauds Hong Kong — The local branch of the world-famous Madame Tussauds wax museum encourages visitors to touch and pose with the figures. Local celebrities include Jackie Chan, Andy Lau and Michelle Yeoh. Also, where else in the Fragrant Harbor can you pose with Lady Gaga, Barack Obama and Yao Ming. Shop P101, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-6966.
Hong Kong Museum Of Medical Sciences
Museum of Medical Sciences — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both Western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Closed Mondays. 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels, 2549-5123. Police Museum — This interesting little museum has more than 600 artifacts relating to the Hong Kong Police, from the force’s inception in 1844 to today. It’s split into four sections including a gallery devoted to triad societies, the equivalent of gangs. Closed on public holidays. 27 Coombe Rd., The Peak, 2849-7019. Sam Tung Uk Museum — Offering a fascinating insight into Hong Kong’s past, Sam Tung Uk ("three rows of dwelling") is a restored 200year-old walled village. The 2,000-squaremeter museum includes an ancestral hall, two rows of side houses, an exhibition hall and a lecture hall. It contains displays of period furniture, handicrafts and agricultural equipment. Closed Tuesdays. 2 Kwu Uk Lane, Tsuen Wan, 2411-2001.
Explore Hong Kong’s vibrant art landscape with over 100 exciting exhibitions and gallery events Find out more at artweek.hk-aga.org @hkartgal
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dining | The Guide
A Festive Feast Check out our top picks for Christmas dining in Hong Kong. By Melissa Frankenberry
Early Bird Special At Sevva, festivities begin early with a Christmas set lunch served from December 1-25 priced at $520 per person. This three-course meal offers Christmas classics such as roasted turkey, crispy potatoes, and a fig Christmas pudding. However, lunch is just the opening act all leading up to the Christmas Eve set dinner, a five-course meal ($2,380 per person). Enjoy dinner, music and dancing all under the stars at Sevva’s grand terrace in Central. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-1388. Sevva
Right At Home
Eat, Drink and Be Merry
Christmas Fiesta
Chef Harlan Goldstein is adding some festive flair to Comfort by including some of his own Christmas favorites exclusively offered on December 24 and 25. A group of eight-10 people can enjoy Harlan’s slowcooked Christmas turkey ($1,180) seasoned with Italian ingredients and mouth-watering homemade gravy. While the typical a la carte menu will also be available, these new holiday goodies are definitely worth a try.
No traditional Christmas meal is complete without steaming mulled wine or Christmas pudding—as Staunton’s Wine Bar and Café will tell you. Throughout the month of December, it will be offering a special Christmas lunch menu from $68-198 per person. This menu is brimming with classic holiday treats and drinks that promise a jolly dining experience.
Celebrate Christmas with some Spanish flare at tapas bar Boqueria. If you are an indecisive eater, you can feast on the many different small plates offered in the Christmas spread. Its Christmas highlight is the Santa-gria, a festive twist on their famous red sangria. 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2321 8681.
G/F, 10-12 Staunton St., Central, 2973-6611.
5/F Grand Progress Building, 15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2521-8638.
Above and Beyond Wooloomooloo Group has been serving up sizzling steaks in sky-high venues since 2004. The Wooloomooloo Steakhouse in Wan Chai will be offering an $898 four-course meal that includes crab balls, lasagna, and pan-fried sea bass. All of the locations are offering a unique Christmas menu, so pick a place that will bring you the most holiday cheer.
Boqueria
Multiple locations, including Wooloomooloo Steakhouse at 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960.
Staunton’s 20 W H E R E HONG KONG I d e c e m b e r 2 014
Boqueria
dining
End With a Bang Two New Year’s Eve parties. By Tristan Ruzic
On Top of the World Grab your finest gown and come party at Ozone, one of the highest bars in the world—$700 gets you entry and a glass of champagne. Portuguese DJ Xinobi and French DJ El’se will start spinning at 10pm. You can also buy tickets at the door for $350 after 12:30am. As the clock strikes midnight, see the fireworks explode across Victoria Harbour. 118/F, Ritz-Carlton, International Commerce Center, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2010, ozone.hk@ritzcarlton.com. Ozone
Taken to Mask If 2014 wasn’t your year and you want to hide behind a mask until the clock strikes 12, join the Mira at its Masquerade countdown party beginning at 9pm. Be sure to dress in masked glamor and get ready for belly dancers, the resident band, and star DJs. It’s open bar on selected cocktails, sprits, beers, wines, and two glasses of champagne. Purchase a ticket for $788 on or before December 24, or $888 thereafter. Vibes, 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5885. Buy tickets at www.themirahotel.com.
The Mira
Central 8 1/2 Otto E Mezzo Bombana — Italian $$$$ Chef Umberto Bombana’s unique brand of contemporary Italian cuisine is offered in the regularly changing decadent lunch and dinner sets (though an a la carte menu is also available). Shop 202, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-8859.
Aberdeen Street Social
Aberdeen Street Social — British $$$$ Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton and entrepreneur Yenn Wong collaborate for the third time to launch Aberdeen Street Social, bringing their take on modern British cuisine to the hipsters of Hong Kong. G/F, JPC Building, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2866-0300.
BEP Vietnamese Kitchen — Vietnamese $$ BÊP is a comfortable, no-fuss SoHo restaurant from the team behind popular Vietnamese restaurant Nha Trang—offering up an open kitchen, good service and excellent food. LG/F, 9-11 Staunton St., Central, 2522-7533. China Tang — Chinese $$$$ Following the success of Island Tang and Kowloon Tang, Sir David Tang continues with China Tang, offering top delicacies from Beijing, Sichuan and Guangdong in a luxurious setting. Shop 411-413, 4/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2522-2148. Chom Chom — Vietnamese $$ It seems a bold move, to not serve pho at a place that calls itself Vietnamese—but it works. Diners are squeezed into a posh but tiny space that’s mostly eaten up by a large L-shaped bar. Beer and Vietnamese street foods are the two key elements at this new space. G/F, Block A, 58-60 Peel St., Central, 2810-0850. Ciak — Italian $$$ Backed by chef Umberto Bombana, Sir David Tang and media mogul Peter Lam, Ciak offers casual Italian fare including bread, pizza and pasta, either for takeaway or for a quick eat-in. 3/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2522-8869.
Comfort — Fusion $$$ Comfort is an eastmeets-west type of resto, with beef brisket curry co-existing alongside English sausages and gravy. One more item, not to be missed: a hoisin-sauce-glazed pork belly bao (steamed bun). 5/F, Grand Progress Building, 15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2521-8638. Fatty Crab — American $$$ Situated half way up Old Bailey Street, this bar/resto offers Pan-Asian cuisine, specialty cocktails and creations galore—including the mighty Pickleback shot. G/F, 11-13 Old Bailey St., Central, 2521-2033. Fish & Meat — Western $$$ Fish & Meat is all about family-style plates, heavily focused on seafood. Baby spanish octopus, roasted Alaskan cod, and pan-fried sea bream are some of the dishes on offer. 1-2/F, 32 Wyndham St., Central, 2565-6788. Ho Lee Fook — Chinese $$ HLF is a cheeky, modern take on Chinese cuisine, courtesy of Aussie chef Jowett Yu (of Ms. G’s and Mr. Wong in Sydney). The venue consists of a ground floor open kitchen decked out in mahjong tiles, and a dark and funky basement dining room. LG-G/F, 1-5 Elgin St., Central, 2810-0860. d e c e m b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 21
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dining | The Guide La Vache — French $$$ Inspired by the Le Relais de l’Entrecôte chain from Paris, La Vache is a brasserie-style space that specializes in the classic European dish. 48 Peel St., Central, 2880-0248. Le Port Parfume — French $$$ Le Port Parfume sources its fish and other marine creatures from Hong Kong waters. Expect wildcaught seafood, cooked French-style. Shop C, 6-10 Kau U Fong, Central, 2824-3018. Loyal Dining — Chinese $ At Loyal Dining, you’ll find fried rice alongside garlicky soft escargot, foie gras and char siu (barbecue pork), signature roast pigeon and beef Wellington Hong Kong-style (served on a hot iron plate). 66 Wellington St., Central, 3125-3000.
Lung King Heen
Lung King Heen — Cantonese $$$$ The xiaolongbao (pork dumplings) at this three-Michelin-starred restaurant come with little handles so they reach your mouth without breaking. The steamed shrimp and scallop dumplings with a topping of XO sauce are pure magic. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8888. Mama San — Southeast Asian $$$ Aussie chef Will Meyrick’s popular and uber-trendy Mama San comes from Bali to Central. Not as roomy and high-ceilinged as the mothership, Mama San HK still remains faithful to the original decor, complete with MS Bali’s signature wall mural. 1/F, 46 Wyndham St., Central, 2881-8901.
Peking Garden — Chinese $$$ This famouswith-tourists restaurant tucked into the basement of Alexandra House is known for its signature Peking duck and other Chinese delicacies. The restaurant is also known for its beggar’s chicken, which has to be ordered at least two days in advance. Shop B1, Alexandra House, 16-20 Chater Rd., Central, 2526-6456. Pierre — French $$$ Chef Pierre Gagnaire’s famously innovative dishes are on offer at this upscale two-Michelin-star diner at the Mandarin Oriental. Modern French is the name of the game, and the menu changes every season. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, Central, 2825-4001. Sanche — Korean $$ Sanche is dishing out modern Korean on Wellington Street. Salads and traditional Korean specialties like tokbokki (spicy rice cakes) will be given slight re-interpretations. Shop C, 28-32 Gage St., Central, 2628-3248. Sichuan House — Sichuan $ The menu’s chili ratings can be misleading: even dishes with no chili contain a bit of zing. Then again—if you didn’t like spice, why choose Sichuanese in the first place? 7/F, M88, 2 Wellington St., Central, 2521-6699. Tim Ho Wan — Dimsum $ If you’re looking for some Michelin-starred dim sum, just head over to IFC Mall and look for the place with the giant line of people waiting outside. Must-try items include the baked barbecue pork buns and steamed shrimp rice rolls, both of which will leave your stomach and your wallet happy. Shop 12A, 1/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central.
He Jiang — Shanghainese $$ He Jiang fuses numbingly hot Sichuan cuisine with light and sweet Huaiyang cuisine. Try the spicy crab hotpot for a meal to remember. 1/F, Cosmopolitan Hotel, 387-397 Queen’s Rd. East, Wan Chai, 3167-7833. Shun Kee Typhoon Shelter — Chinese $$$ Shun Kee is a collection of sampans close to the Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter, serving mostly classic typhoon shelter-style seafood (read: steamed or fried). Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter, Causeway Bay, 8112-0075. Under Bridge Spicy Crab — Chinese $$$ The Under Bridge Spicy Crab restaurants are all within walking distance of each other, varying from a hole-in-the-wall to a Zen-modern interior. But they all serve typhoon-shelter crabs: large, sweet crustaceans topped with mounds of fried garlic and chili. Shop 1-2, G/F, 414-424 Jaffe Rd., Causeway Bay, 2573-7698. Wooloomooloo Prime — Australian $$$ In the same building as the Wooloomooloo group’s newest gastropub, The Chop House, is the latest Wooloomooloo Prime, sticking to its time-tested repertoire of great Aussie steaks and a sky-high view. 27-28/F, Soundwill Plaza II, 1 Tang Lung St., Causeway Bay, 2771-3600.
Wan Chai 22 Ships — Spanish $$$ British chef Jason Atherton’s 22 Ships, named for its address, is a sparsely decorated tapas bar with unfinished floors that serves small plates with a modern twist. Since it takes no reservations, the intimate venue is always packed. 22 Ship St., Wan Chai, 2555-0722.
Causeway Bay
Man Wah Restaurant — Cantonese $$$ Straight-up Cantonese fare with an amazing harbor view in an atmosphere of old-world elegance. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Rd., Central, 2825-4003. An Nam
Mott 32
Mott 32 — Cantonese $$$$ Mott 32 is restaurant group Maximal Concepts’ first foray into Chinese cuisine, and like its other restaurants, it’s dark, dramatic and exclusive. B/F, Standard Chartered Building, 4-4A Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2885-8688. Numero 15 — Spanish $$$ At Numero 15, you’re getting uber-trendy tapas such as boneless suckling pig, Iberico belly mantou (yes, that’s Chinese steamed bun) and tender ox tongue skewers as well as homemade mascarpone cheesecakes and chocolate mousse in a jar. G/F, 15 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2362-0881. 22 W H E R E HONG KONG I d e c e m b e r 2 014
An Nam — Vietnamese $$ An Nam serves Vietnamese-style dishes in an exquisitely designed setting. Diners can savor fresh seafood and roast meats as well as traditional delicacies from the region of Hue. 4/F, Lee Gardens One, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2787-3922.
Bao Wow
Bao Wow — Chinese $ Bao Wow is a sizzling little fast food diner just a block from hipster Ship Street, serving the fluffy Chinese-style tacos wrapped in steamed Chinese buns in relatively affordable combos. Shop 2, 28 Tai Wong St. East, Wan Chai, 2528-9505.
Din Tai Fung — Chinese $ The xiaolongbao at Taiwanese chain restaurant Din Tai Fung are some of the most delectable soup-filled pork dumplings in the city, with delicately fine skin and succulent, juicy meat. Shop 3-9, G/F, 68 Yee Wo St., Causeway Bay, 3160-8998. Gonpachi — Japanese $$$ The glorious Tokyo establishment that inspired one of the signature killing scenes in “Kill Bill” has spawned a branch in Causeway Bay’s Lee Gardens. Keep in mind that Gonpachi is not a specialist restaurant. It serves everything: sushi, grilled goods, tempura, rice boxes and noodles. 4/F, The Lee Gardens, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2787-3688.
Bo Innovation
Bo Innovation — Asian $$$ “Demon chef” Alvin Leung is known for his innovative takes on Asian cuisine. Steamed soup dumplings get
Address: Ground Floor, 1E Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong. (Opposite the Holiday Inn Golden Mile Hotel’s Mody Road entrance) Telephone: 2368-0040, 2723-0056 Email: laelite@netvigator.com 九龍尖沙咀麼地道1E地下 (金域假日酒店麼地道入口對面)
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dining | The Guide transformed into different shapes, textures and sizes, and many other things don’t look like they’re supposed to at this three-Michelinstarred restaurant. 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2850-8371. Le Bistro Winebeast — French $$ This petite and charming French bistro is the dining arm of nearby wine shop Winebeast, so not only do you pay store prices for your tipples while you dine, but there are also 120 varieties on the menu. 15 McGregor St., Wan Chai, 2479-6833. Le Relais de L’Entrecote — Steak $$ This is the Parisian original, from the family that put steak-frites on the foodie map. 2/F, Garden East, 222 Queen’s Rd. East, Wan Chai, 2891-9080 .
Tsim Sha Tsui Above & Beyond — Chinese $$$ Go to this narrow but inviting restaurant for a variety of innovative dim sum dishes and expertly tweaked Chinese mains. 28/F, Hotel Icon, 17 Science Museum Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3400-1318. FINDS — Scandinavian $$$ For something totally different, try the Scandinavian food at FINDS (the name stands for Finland, Iceland, Norway, Denmark and Sweden), which serves excellent fish, game and meat dishes. 1/F, The Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2522-9318.
Qi House of Sichuan — Sichuan $$$ The menu here covers everything from the standard mala dishes to sweet and sour fish and even Kung Pao chicken. 2/F, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-7117. The Principal — Modern European $$$ Soft shades of color, cushy chairs and bright lighting make The Principal a very comfortable place to be. Head chef Jonay Armas serves dishes from his childhood home in the Canary Islands. 9 Star St., Wan Chai, 2563-3444.
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Morton’s Of Chicago
Morton’s Of Chicago — American $$$$$ This renovated steakhouse with contemporary interiors offers new signatures like a fivepeppercorn rubbed strip steak and a USDA
bone-in rib-eye. Seafood lovers also get to enjoy dishes like a Chilean sea bass fillet. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2732-2343. Spring Deer — Chinese $ At this loud, busy establishment that’s starting to show its age, you feel the quasi-nostalgic vibe as soon as you walk in, and it really makes the experience. Get the Peking duck. 1/F, 42 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-4012. Whisk — Modern European $$$ Whisk is known for its contemporary European dishes and extensive wine list that is relatively more affordable than other fine diners. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., 2368-1111.
Price Guide $ Less than $200 $$ $200-$399 $$$ $400-$599
$$$$ $600-$799 $$$$$ $800 and up
Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course and dessert. Prices do not include bottles of wine unless stated.
Tel: 2730 1251
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Drinks | The Guide
Cool Rummings A new Caribbean-themed joint has taken Central by storm. By Andrea Lo
Holding court just under the Central Mid-Levels Escalator, Rummin’ Tings is a Caribbean-themed bar bringing a touch of the tropical to Hong Kong. As the name (“rum and things”) suggests, rum takes center stage. Close your eyes while you’re savoring a cocktail, and you could almost be on an exotic island— except you’re right in the middle of an unbeatable people-watching spot.
If you hate dimly lit bars, you’ll enjoy the bright, warm interiors at Rummin’ Tings. Sliding doors give the bar a semi-alfresco feel, while hip hop in the background brings the party vibes. There are classic cocktails— including the likes of piña coladas ($120), made with Bacardi Superior Rum, Aperol, coconut, pineapple juice and lime—plus a list of signatures
121BC — 121BC is a wine lover’s heaven. Enjoy top-of-the-range wines sourced from Italy paired with a rustic Italian menu. 42-44 Peel St., Central, 2395-0200.
recipes by heart. This nightspot is exclusive, fitting only 18 people and allowing groups with a maximum of five people. 5/F, Mody House, 30 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-3828.
Amazake — Amazake is sandwiched between three of Hong Kong’s biggest clubs: Play, Levels, and Dizzi. It’s bright and pumping with energy, a place for large groups to pre-game before hitting the clubs next door. G/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, 2537-7787.
Common Room — Common Room is a spacious gastropub right off LKF’s main drag that serves international tapas dishes and mixologistcrafted cocktails. 1/F, Wo On Building, 8-13 Wo On Lane, Central, 2525-3599.
Aqua Spirit — Sky-high lounge bar Aqua Spirit redefines the notion of having a sophisticated drink with friends. Quoted as one of the best bars in Hong Kong, Aqua has stunning harbor and city views. 29-30/F, Penthouse, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. Boujis — Taking its cue from the celeb-endorsed model in London, Boujis establishes an Asian branch in Hong Kong. The moody space comes alive at night with house, electro and similarly buzzing sounds. 37 Pottinger St., Central, 2324-0200. Butler — Masayuki Uchida, the half-Cantonese, half-Japanese owner of this posh, all-wooden Japanese bar, allegedly knows 2,000 cocktail
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you’d be hard-pressed to find elsewhere. Try the Calypso Punch ($110) which consists of Bacardi Oakheart rum and crème de cassis, finished off with cinnamon syrup, apple juice and cloves—refreshing, yet not too sweet. Need a pick-me-up? Go for the Dove ($90), a combination of Tres Sombreros tequila, Aperol, homemade grapefruit cordial and lime. The bar snacks at Rummin’ Tings are exceptionally good: there are nibbles inspired by the cuisines of Trinidad, Jamaica and the various islands dotted around the West Indies. There are light bites such as choka (grilled eggplant dip) with dhal puri roti (roti filled with curried split peas), or meatier dishes such as the finger-licking-good sticky island ribs. 28 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2523-7070.
brewery Young Master Ales. Craft Brew also serves gourmet grilled sausages, made with some unusual ingredients. G/F, 17 Old Bailey St., Central, 2885-0821. Fu Lu Shou — Hongkongers love a good rooftop bar, so it’s no surprise that the super-hip Fu Lu Shou is all the rage. Meaning ‘“happiness, prosperity and longevity,” Fu Lu Shou offers up cool surrounds and interesting concoctions. Not only do the innovative cocktails have a strong local flavor, but you’ll also find western-style Chinatown favorites on the menu. 7/F, 31 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2336-8812. Grappa’s Cellar — This busy after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians. B/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322.
Craft Brew & Co
Craft Brew & Co — Unlike other beer joints, you won’t find a single mass-produced beer here. There are brews from the likes of Anderson Valley, Anchor, Mountain Goat and local
Guay — The Spanish invasion of the Hong Kong bar scene is still underway, and Guay is the latest to join the fray. This Tai Hang joint is situated off the main street in the midst of the auto repair shops. Yes, it’s in a hip neighborhood, but its relatively hidden location makes it a laid-back, cool spot to grab a drink or two, without the extortionate prices often found in town. 9A Sun Chun St., Tai Hang, 2618-8782.
For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at bars, restaurants and coffee shops).
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Drinks Ham & Sherry — Patterned floor-to-ceiling Azulejo tiles in sharp blue and white are the first things that catch your eye at this modestly sized venue with a bar at the back. In case it’s not obvious, sherry is the drink of choice here. G/F, 1-7 Ship St., Wan Chai, 2555-0628. Havana — This Cuban-themed bar on D’Aguilar Street serves up Caribbean classics like daiquiris, mojitos and drinks with all different sorts of rum. Awesome terrace available for some serious outdoor chilling. 4/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2851-4880. Lily and Bloom — A-list celebs have been seen here, with VIPs being buzzed in and out of itsfabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. Expect swarms of glitterati and the party elite. The aesthetes amongst you will be delighted at the thought that so much attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166. Lion Rock Bar — Lion Rock is the place to unwind and relax while sampling one of the 193 signature cocktails. Enjoy the awesome view at the weekly wine and whisky tastings, and recharge with the sushi and all-day dining services. 3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel, 193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Mong Kok, 2622-6167. Mavericks — If the craft beers, the threeslider platter (ahi tuna; buffalo chicken with blue cheese; wagyu beef), or the beachfront view aren’t enough, then there’s the fact that Mavericks gives you the best seats in the house to watch the sun set on a perfect beach day. Pui O Beach (next to Pui O campsite), South Lantau Rd., Lantau Island, 5402-4154. Origin — The name is a bit of a giveaway— gin is high up on the menu here. With famed mixologist Antonio Lai at the helm, Origin serves up a delectable selection of every single kind of gin you can think of—and then a few more for good measure. G/F, 48 Wyndham St., Central, 2668-5583. Ozone — Located 118 floors above the ground, this bar boasts the title of the highest bar in Hong Kong. With an extensive—and expensive—menu of bubbly and cocktails, this bar is a must-see, mainly because of its skyhigh, drop-dead gorgeous lookout over Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2263. Peak Bar — The name’s a little confusing, but this is a cozy, laid-back spot with fab peoplewatching right by the Central—Mid-Levels Escalator. 9-13 Shelley St., Central, 2140-6877. Play — Head to the lounge room, equipped with two pool tables, for happy hour drink specials and exceedingly tasty bar snacks, or move to the dance floor and shake your body to the beats. 1/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, 2525-1318. Quinary — This chic hangout off Hollywood Road serves some awesome cocktails by molecular mixologist Antonio Lai. The Earl Grey caviar martini and the oolong tea Collins are both highly recommended. 56-58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-3223.
Tapagria — If you’re looking for tapas and sangria with a view, look no further than Tapagria, situated on the high floors of The One shopping mall. Enjoy one of the 65 sangria concoctions, alongside dishes like paella and croquettes. 18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2147-0111.
Red Bar
Red Bar — Great for alfresco drinks, this is a popular spot with suits and gym bunnies, who hustle over for a low-cal meal and a sinful cocktail or three. One of the largest terraces in town, with an awesome view. 4/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882.
The Globe — The homey 3,500-square-foot pub has a massive bar area, a dining area, a lounge and booths, keeping an old-school aesthetic with brand-new wooden furniture. Boasting extensive beer offerings and a lively vibe, there’s also a wide selection of board games and books to wile away the hours. G/F, Garley Building, 45-53 Graham St., Central, 2543-1941.
Rockabilly — Head up LKF and you’ll be sure to catch Rockabilly’s loud, red neon logo and cheeky signs. Inspired by tattoo parlors and vintage car repair shops, the 1950s Americana joint has two floors: a narrow ground floor with a bar, and a roomier upstairs complete with a Juliet balcony that’s great for late-night people-watching. 12 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2869-0099. Salon de Ning — A stylishly ostentatious bar lounge inspired by the opulent private residences of 1930s Shanghai celebutante Madame Ning. This is retroluxe at its finest, with four fabulous themed rooms surrounding the main Art Deco lounge. Best savored with a Ning Sling. B/F, The Peninsula Hong Kong, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6705. Sevva — A spacious alfresco terrace surrounds super-stylish restaurant and lounge Sevva, offering unique, panoramic views over Hong Kong. A perfect place to watch the Symphony of Lights. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-1388. Shore — A swanky submarine-themed bar with one of the most extensive drinks selection in town. Cocktail lovers can go for a “Surprise Me”—choose an ingredient and have the bartender create a unique 10-minute martini, made from fresh fruits and herbs. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2915-1638.
The Lawn
The Lawn — This outdoor garden illuminated entirely by a few candles is a genuine urban oasis with a serene, intimate vibe. Lounge atop the tastefully arranged beanbags and comfortable couches. 6/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. The Tonno — Multi-faceted complex The Tonno features a bar, clubbing zone, restaurant, live music lounge, VIP party enclaves and karaoke rooms—in short, it takes “all-around entertainment” to a whole new level. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888. The Woods — This basement bar is decked out in nature-inspired décor—hence the name— and shakes up creative and painstakingly crafted cocktails. LG/F, 17 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2522-0281.
Show Club — Expect the kind of bottle-poppin’, booty-droppin’ action normally seen in rap videos come to life at this late-night club on the corner of Wyndham, right in the center of the action. G-1/F, 29 Wyndham St., Central, 2656-9338.
Tipping Point Brewing Co — Craft beer hangout Tipping Point serves IPAs, stouts and wheat beers instead of standard commercial varieties. The bar is the brainchild of chef and restaurateur Que Vinh Dang. 29 Wyndham St., Central, 2868-2892.
Stockton — An apparent imitation of the turn-of-the-20th century decadent gentlemen’s club, Stockton is hidden in a poorly lit alleyway off Wyndham Street. Once inside, the bar transforms into a posh and glamorous space, decorated with elaborate furniture and antiques, perfect for intimate and romantic nights out. G/F, 32 Wyndham St., Central, 2565-5268.
Volar — Strictly speaking, basement club Volar is members-only, but you might get lucky. It’s worth the effort as this is one of the most happening spots in Central, with frequent appearances by top international DJs. The space is split into a club area, with state-ofthe-art sound and lighting systems, and a more chilled-out lounge. B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510.
Sugar — Located on the 32nd floor, with an outdoor deck area some 300 feet above Victoria Harbour, this is the perfect place for patrons to soak up the stunning skyline and sea views Hong Kong has to offer. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Quarry Bay, 3968-3738.
Volume H.E.A.T — This chill tapas bar serves some of the cheapest drinks in our metropolis to a mostly gay clientele—it’s two for one on most drinks during happy hour (noon-9pm). L/G, 83-85 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2857-7683. D e c e m b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 27
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Baby, It’s Cold Outside Stock up on winter-ready gear. By Katie Kenny 1. Throw $2,200, Indigo Living
4. Poncho $1,900, Free People @ Lab Concept
Shop B2, 63-69 Caine Rd., Mid-Levels, 2317-0368.
1/F, Queensway Plaza, 93 Queensway, Admiralty, 2118-6008.
2. Hot water bottle $150, G.O.D.
5. Robe $699, Zara Home
G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876.
Shop 3205, 3/F, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2880-5068.
3. Mug $99, Simple People x Kapok @ Loveramics
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97 Leighton Rd.,Causeway Bay, 2915-8018.
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Shopping Centers
LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mongkok, 3520-2800, www.langhamplace.com.hk.
APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 3148-1200.
IFC Mall
Elements
ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous roof garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234. HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8666. HYSAN PLACE — This mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of high-quality dining options. 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222.
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IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international highend brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308.
LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-5227, www.hysan.com.hk.
HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089. ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2890-6823. THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols. 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3428-8086.
Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place
PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8988.
Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.
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ShopS+Services | The Guide PRINCE’S BUILDING — Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkways to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uber-fashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket. 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2500-0555.
LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with musthave designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388.
One Peking — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier. 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui.
SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.
Rise Commercial Building — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2384-8728.
Squarestreet
Squarestreet — Seriously hipster shoes and accessories. G/F, 15 Square St., Sheung Wan, 2362-1086.
TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 13-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket City’super, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900. The Swank
Shops, Boutiques and Local Designers
Tang Tang Tang Tang
Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men. Shop 123, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2104-7934.
Tang tang tang tang — Sir David Tang's casual lifestyle store stocks everything from rice cookers to pyjamas. G/F, 66 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2525-2112.
Daydream Nation — A locally grown label that incorporates fashion with other art forms like theater, dance, music, film and visual arts. They offer their own collection of clothing and accessories as well as works from local artists and indie bands. Daydream Nation Circus Shop, 2/F, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2817-6313.
Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist. Shop 417, Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2506-2088.
G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876. Kapok — Offers meticulously selected international and local brands for menswear, womenswear, bags and accessories, as well as lifestyle products. G/F, 5, St Francis Yard, Wan Chai, 2549-9254.
Western Market — An Edwardian-styled building with restaurants and shops selling Chinese crafts and fabrics. 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 6029-2675. Wudai Shiguo — This shop in the trendy Star Street neighborhood is a collaboration between a group of local designers and stocks American-style fashion and accessories. 9B1 St. Francis St., Wan Chai, 2528-3800.
Department Stores Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant— the Fourth Floor—and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388.
THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freestanding boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2175-4228.
Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. Shop 220, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2735-4061. YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 301-309 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3511-2222.
Tailors DAVID FASHIONs — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884. L & K bespoke Tailor — G/F, Mirador Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278. La Elite Fashions — G/F, 1E Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-0040.
Shanghai Tang SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333. 30 W H E R E HONG KONG I d e c e m b e r 2 014
Joyce
JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2810-1120; Shop 232, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944; Shop G106, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2907-2228.
Nita Fashions — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-9990. Punjab House — Shop G, G/F, Burlington Houswe, 94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612. Raja Fashions — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624. Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 90-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423.
ShopS+Services Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1251.
SPAS CHUAN SPA — This stunning spa focuses on the individual needs of each client through traditional Chinese medicine and theories, including yin and yang. Its consultants are qualified in Chinese medicine, massage and naturopathy. 41/F, Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3510, www.chuanspa.com.
Plateau Spa
PLATEAU SPA — This whopping 80,000-squarefoot spa offers overnight accommodation and an extensive range of facial and body treatments in 23 rooms and suites. Other facilities include a 50-meter outdoor pool, fitness and exercise studios, a poolside grill restaurant and a tree-lined courtyard. 11/F, Grand Hyatt, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2588-1234, www.hongkong.grand.hyatt.com.
THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS — This urban sanctuary is everything you would expect from the Four Seasons: 22,000 square feet of sumptuousness, including Finnish saunas, an ice fountain, a crystal fountain, vitality pools and an amethyst crystal steam room. Two spa suites include a pool for two, day beds and a private bar. 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8900, www.fourseasons. com/hongkong. TEN FEET TALL — Go to Ten Feet Tall for a slightly different foot massage experience in an exotic ambience. The foot massage center features bright and sunny beach cabanas with pine, bamboo, natural marble and bright décor. The place’s signature treatments include genuine foot reflexology, shoulder and neck massage, pressure point massage and aromatic oil massage. 20-21/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2971-1010, www.tenfeettall.com.hk.
HAIR Flawless
FLAWLESS — This all-in-one shop offers makeup and nail services as well as spa treatments in a spacious upper-level venue. 4/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2869-5868. IYARA DAY SPA — This Central institution offers everything from manis and pedis to facials, waxing and massage treatments. 1/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2545-8638. KIWI SPA — With light green glass, curved walls and soft light and gentle music, Kiwi offers quality foot and body massages that are affordable at the same time. iPads and headsets are available to use at your leisure while you're enjoying the treatments. 14/F, Century Square Building, 1-13 D'Aguilar St., Central, 2567-1333, www.kiwi-hk.com. MANDARIN SPA — This luxe retreat has eight private treatment rooms, including two couples’ suites, each with private steam shower and pool. Its therapies combine ancient and contemporary techniques, and specialist practitioners offer treatments that incorporate ayurvedic philosophies and traditional Chinese medicine. 24/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4888, www.mandarinoriental.com/ hongkong. MEN’S SKIN CENTRE BY BELLA — This center has tailor-made treatments that focus on deep cleansing, acne treatment, and rehydration to brighten and improve your complexion. It also offers laser hair removal services. 9/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-6352, www.bellaskin.com. MIRASPA — It’s pampering for the 21st century. The Mira Spa is comfortably futuristic, with purple and pure white accents and an indoor pool decorated with twinkling lights. Facilities include a jacuzzi plus steam and sauna rooms—and nifty waterbeds in the pre-treatment room. B3/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 23155500, www.themirahotel.com.
Sense Of Touch
SENSE OF TOUCH — This award-winning day spa boasts an extensive menu, featuring such services as a couple’s deep tissue and detoxifying massage, a rose hydrating cocoon body wrap and a “forever young” facial. The lush spa also offers a range of exclusive signature treatments, including the Elemis hot stone therapy for body and face. 1-5/F, 52 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2526-6918, www.senseoftouch.com.hk. THE PENINSULA SPA BY ESPA — This two-floor spa has sweeping harbor views. Designed by Henry Leung, the interior fuses contemporary and traditional Chinese elements. Much attention has been given to detail, including 100-percent Egyptian cotton robes and fully automated Clodagh Gemini treatment beds. 7/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6682, www.hongkong.peninsula.com.
The Ritz-Carlton Spa
THE RITZ-CARLTON SPA BY ESPA — Get pampered at the highest hotel spa in the world. Located on the 116th floor, this relaxing retreat looms over the city and offers majestic views of Victoria Harbour. Spa guests can also take a dip in the hotel's sky-high infinity pool after their treatments. 116/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 22632040, www.ritzcarlton.com/hongkong.
AIMEE AT THE SHANGRI-LA — Staffed by international stylists offering everything from bridal makeovers, haircuts, coloring and waves to manicures, pedicures and professional makeup application. 8/F, Island Shangri-La, Supreme Court Road, Admiralty, 2918-1339. AIRPLAY BLOW DRY BAR — Get your hair and makeup done all at once at Airplay, and choose from different looks like “Sea Breeze” (wavy hair) or “Mojito” (playful curls). 7/F, W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2641-9888, www.airplaybar.com. QG PRIVATE I SALON — Located in the Four Seasons, the flagship of the Private I group is suitably beautiful, with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out onto an astounding harbor view. Expect to find yourself rubbing shoulders with politicians, tycoons and the jet set. 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 2521-0070, www.privatei.com.hk.
NAILS NAIL NAIL — This is the place for innovative nails, including gel nails, airbrushing and the truly decadent one-carat diamond manicure, which is by appointment only. It also offers waxing and temporary tattoos. Shop 1091A, 1/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2366-9322, www.nailnail.com.hk. NAIL SPA — Nail services and treatments for men and women are the specialty here, including French manicures and paraffin foot therapy. Gel and acrylic nails are available along with nail painting, embossed nail art, semi-precious gemstones, crystal embossing and graduated nail painting. 1/F, 8 Pak Sha Rd., Causeway Bay, 2478-9333, www.nailspa.com.hk. THE LOFT — A spin-off of The Nail Library in Sheung Wan, this new Central shop right by the escalators offers men’s barbering services, facials as well as hand and foot spa treatments— and of course, manicures and pedicures. 2/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2618-8623. d e c e m b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 31
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Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call the Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions, plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals, as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.
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Get Moving
Octopus Cards
Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.
These are “wave-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.
Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English, but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.
The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $50, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.
Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.
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HONG KONG Shop G&H, Ground Floor, Burlington House, 90-94C Nathan Road, T.S.T., KLN., HK (Tsim Sha Tsui Station Exit B1) 九龍尖沙咀 彌敦道90-94C號 華敦大廈地下G&H舖 (尖沙咀港鐵站 B1 出口) Tel: (852) 2366 5635 / 2366 6612 / 2368 8625 BUSINESS HOURS 09:00AM – 09:00PM (MON-SAT) 10:00AM – 07:00PM (SUN)
www.punjabhouse.com.hk
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Open 7 days a week, get your personal fitting within hours in Hong Kong and you may pick up in our London Branch. LONDON 13-13A Pall Mall, London SW1Y 5LU Tel: +44 020 7925 2238 www.apsleytailors.com
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Industrial Revolution
Hong Kong has two major bus companies:
Lai Chi Kok has experienced quite a transformation through the years, evolving from an oil depot during Japanese occupation in the 40s to the residential and industrial area it is today. With its distinctive history, there are plenty of arts and heritage spots in the neighborhood, as well as places to eat and shop. By Paul Benedict Lee
citybus / New World First BUS — 2136-8888/2873-0818, www.nwstbus.com.hk.
Kowloon Motor Bus — 2745-4466, www.kmb.hk.
Sights & Attractions
Avenue of Stars
Lui Seng chun
Trend Watch
A Healing Touch
Trendy new mall D2 Place has been redeveloped from a former factory building into a shopping center and office complex. Sports lovers can head to Heng Fu Sport Free Outlet (2/F), which stocks sports apparel from major brands like Nike and New Balance. The mall also features a range of different restaurants, but make sure to check out the Paramita Vegetarian Restaurant (Shop 302) if you’re hungry for some healthy dishes. The GreenLive indoor driving range also opened in October for golf enthusiasts.
Now accommodating the Hong Kong Baptist University’s School of Chinese Medicine, Lui Seng Chun was a tong lau, a classic style of apartment building prominent in the 1930s. Apart from being a residence, the iconic four-story building also housed retail shops on the ground floor before tenants vacated in the 1970s. Lui Seng Chun was labeled a Grade I historic building in 2000 by the Hong Kong government. The Baptist University revitalized the building and turned it into a Chinese healthcare clinic in April 2012. Guided tours are available by appointment from Monday to Saturday.
9 Cheung Yee St., 3620-3098.
119 Lai Chi Kok Rd., 3411-0628.
Big Deal
The Jao Tsung-I Academy at the former site of the Lai Chi Kok Hospital compound advocates the importance of Chinese culture in relation to cultural exchange. The Academy houses permanent exhibitions, including “A Century of Contributions”, which explains the site’s transformation from a quarantine station to a hospital, up to the cultural heritage center it is today. Apart from hosting exhibitions, the Academy also regularly organizes concerts and cultural seminars. Register online for the free daily guided tours.
If you’re tired of conventional malls or simply want to be adventurous, head over to the Hong Kong Industrial Centre. Located 5 minutes from Exit E of Lai Chi Kok MTR Station, this factory building is a major wholesale market for clothes and accessories. Don’t be put off by the word “wholesale”: the center runs as a retail shopping mall every Saturday. Divided into three blocks, the massive building is packed on Saturday afternoons, when the general public comes in.
800 Castle Peak Rd., 2100-2828.
489-491 Castle Peak Rd.
Back to School
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Avenue of Stars — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes' hand and footprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars, as well as a statue of Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly music-and-laser extravaganza called the Symphony of Lights. Music only plays over the loudspeakers here, although the harborfront light display can be seen from around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, Tsim Sha Tsui.
Big Buddha
Big Buddha — Situated beside Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island is the Big Buddha—the largest seated outdoor bronze Buddha in the world. The statue is set amid mountains and hiking trails, and is most impressive seen while in the cable car from Tung Chung. Nearby is The Wisdom Path, lined with wood carvings featuring the calligraphy from an important text for Confucians, Buddhists and Taoists. The vegetarian restaurant within the monastery is the best option if you're famished. Ngong Ping Village, Lantau Island, 2985-5248. Cheung Sha Beach — Catch a ferry from Central Pier 6 to Mui Wo, then take Bus 1, 2 or 4 to Cheung Sha. Stretching for three glorious kilometers along Lantau's south coast, Cheung Sha is Hong Kong's longest beach. With silky soft sand and the towering Sunset Peak as a backdrop, it's an island paradise. Lantau Island. Chi Lin Nunnery — An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It's a 33,000-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1998. It's centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds, and a stroll through the gardens makes for a bucolic escape. Vegetarian food is available in a quaint teahouse. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888.
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Duk Ling Chinese Sailing Junk — Launched in 1955, the Duk Ling is one of the last authentic sailing junks in Hong Kong. It can carry up to 36 passengers. 2573-5282. Fa Yuen Street — Heaving with bargain hunters every afternoon, Fa Yuen Street is stuffed with cheap fashion boutiques, factory outlets and accessories stores for men, women and children. Fa Yuen St., Prince Edward. Hong Kong Park — This eight-hectare park has a large walk-through aviary, a conservatory housing unusual and exotic plants, sports and squash centers, a multistory playground, a tai chi garden and a clock tower. In the conservation corner are more than 100 species of dragonflies. Also worth visiting are the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware and the Hong Kong Visual Arts Centre. 19 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2521-5041. Hong Kong Wetland Park — This worldclass ecotourism attraction demonstrates the diversity of Hong Kong's wetlands, and the importance of conservation. It's a 61-hectare site with user-friendly facilities such as a stream walk, succession walk, mangrove boardwalk and bird hides. Wetland Park Rd., Tin Shui Wai, 3152-2666.
NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT! Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418
www.outback.com.hk
Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823
Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan
Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai
Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay
Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728
Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918
Jade Market — In Chinese culture, jade is associated with good health and a long life. The jade market stalls sell everything from expensive carved jade to cheap trinkets, as well as pearls and other jewelry of varying quality. Kansu St. and Battery St., Yau Ma Tei. Ladies' Market — Find dog toys, trinkets and accessories, racy underwear, costume jewelry and more all along this road. Down the side lanes are vintage shops, fashion outlets and the occasional restaurant. Tung Choi St., Mong Kok. Open daily noon-11:30pm.
Lan Kwai Fong
Lan Kwai Fong — Thankfully closed to cars most of the time, these thoroughfares are jam-packed full of bars and nightclubs, with revelers spilling out into the streets at all hours. Attracting yuppies and visitors like moths to a flame, a good night out in Lan Kwai Fong is almost guaranteed. Lan Kwai Fong, near D'Aguilar Street, Central. Mai Po Marshes — Who knew that Hong Kong was a bird-watchers' paradise? The 1,500-hectare Mai Po Marshes reserve is run by the World Wildlife Fund and is a designated Wetland of International d e c e m b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 35
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Importance thanks to the thousands of migratory wading birds passing through each autumn and winter. Mai Po Nature Reserve, Yuen Long, 2482-0369.
Man Mo Temple
Sam’s The Man
Man Mo Temple — This atmospheric temple must be one of the most photographed in Hong Kong. Great incense spirals dangle from the rafters, filling the roof space with aromatic smoke and lending a deep patina to the statues of gods Man Cheong (god of literature) and Kuan Ti (god of martial arts, or Mo) on the altars. 126 Hollywood Rd., near Ladder Street, Sheung Wan.
seemingly impossible angle that enchants all aboard. Sit on the right for the best views. St. Joseph's Building, Central, 2522-0922. Shek O — Hop on Bus 9 from Shau Kei Wan MTR Station, and you'll reach a wide beach on the eastern shores of Hong Kong Island. Separated from the city by a twisting, 40-minute drive, Shek O is a laid-back haven popular with surfers, who kick back here after riding the waves at nearby Big Wave Bay. Sha Tin Racecourse — Join the screaming hordes at Happy Valley and Sha Tin racecourses for a few adrenalin-fueled hours. Mingle with the masses in the stands, or opt for the more refined atmosphere in the boxes. The season runs September to mid-June, with about 700 races a year held an average of twice a week.
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Stanley Ngong Ping 360
Ngong Ping 360 — This cultural-themed village features dining, retail and entertainment attractions. The cable car offers panoramic views as it passes over North Lantau Country Park to the Big Buddha. 111 Ngong Ping Rd., Lantau Island, 3666-0606. Ocean Park — Get up close and personal with a dolphin or a panda, walk through a shark tank, dive into a coral reef or whirl upside down on a roller coaster. Located near Aberdeen, Ocean Park manages to amuse and educate with its marine and bird life exhibits, giant panda enclosure, wild headland rides, and a cable car trip between the park's two parts. 180 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 2552-0291.
Stanley — The seaside township of Stanley has a market, shops, restaurants and bars that line a bay on one side and a beach on the other. It's the perfect place to take a walk along the waterfront, chill at an alfresco resto and pick up some souvenirs. Stanley Main St., Stanley. Tai O — It would be wishful thinking to describe this fishing village as a Venice of the East, but there's no doubting the charm of its maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the northwestern coast of Lantau Island. It's a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, trays of smelly shrimp paste, a picturesque Tin Hau Temple at the end of a causeway and a couple of interesting little museums. A boutique hotel and restaurant add a touch of colonial elegance to the traditional town.
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Peak Tram
Peak Tram — There was a time when the best way up the Peak was by sedan chair— a grueling experience, particularly for the bearers. So the arrival of the Peak Tram was a blessing, one for which we are still thankful. The little funicular railway is one of the best trips in town, panting up Hong Kong Island's tallest mountain at a
Ten Thousand Buddhas
Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800
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Buddhas stored in five temples, four pavilions and a nine-story pagoda. The one that you're likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin, 2691-1067. Wong Tai Sin Temple — Named after the deity Wong Tai Sin, this Taoist temple completed its restoration in 1973 and is a popular shrine for local pilgrims who want to glimpse their future via a Chinese practice called kau cim. Lung Cheung Rd., Wong Tai Sin, 2327-8141.
Embassies & Consulates Argentina 2523-3208; Australia 28278881; Bangladesh 2827-4278; Belgium 2524-3111; Brazil 2525-7002; Canada 3719-4700; Chile 2827-1826; China (China Travel) 2853-3888; Colombia 2545-8547; Czech Republic 2802-2212; Egypt 2827-0668; Finland 2525-5385; France 3752-9900; Germany 2105-8788; Greece 2774-1682; India 3970-9900; Israel 2821-7500; Italy 2522-0033; Japan 2522-1184; Korea 2529-4141; Laos 2544-1186; Malaysia 2821-0800; Mexico 2511-3305; Netherlands 25229200; New Zealand 2525-5044; Pakistan 2827-0295; Philippines 2823-8501; Peru 2868-2622; Poland 2840-0779; Russia 2877-7188; Singapore 2527-2212; Spain 2525-3041; Sweden 2521-1212; Switzerland 3509-5000; Taiwan 2530-1187; Thailand 2521-6481; Turkey 2572-1331; United Arab Emirates 2866-1823; United Kingdom 2901-3000; USA 2523-9011; Venezuela 2730-8099; Vietnam 2591-4510.
Financial Matters Generally, business hours are weekdays 9am-5pm, with a lunch hour from 1pm2pm, and Saturdays 9am-1pm. The local currency is the Hong Kong dollar. There is no central mint; instead, notes are issued by three separate private banks and the city’s Monetary Authority. The Hong Kong dollar is pegged to the US dollar at a rate of approximately US$1 to HK$7.75. Denominations include $10, $20, $50, $100, $500 and $1,000 notes. Coins come in denominations of 10, 20 and 50 cents, and one, two, five and 10 dollars. BANKS — Major banks are open weekdays 9am-4:30pm, and Saturdays 9am12:30pm. Banks are closed Sundays and public holidays. Some services, such as foreign exchange-related transactions, are not available at banks one hour before closing. The following details are for the banks’ main offices, call for retail locations: Bank of America, 41/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 2847-5222; Citibank, Citibank Tower, 3 Garden Rd., Central, 2868-8888; HSBC, 1 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2233-3000; Standard Chartered Bank, 4 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2886-8868. d e c e m b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 37
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Walking Tours | The Guide
A Walk Through Time Follow this tour of Central’s Garden Road to experience Hong Kong’s colonial past come to life, as well as some greenery within the urban jungle.
Y Start at Admiralty MTR Station, Exit F. Follow signs through Pacific Place mall to Hong Kong Park. The park is opposite the upper mall entrance. Once in the park, follow the main path and you’ll see Flagstaff House on your right.
Peak Tram The Peak Tram has been in operation since 1888, taking people up an incline so steep that buildings appear to lean at a 45-degree angle. Open 7am-midnight daily.
Zoological & Botanical Gardens
Hong Kong Zoological & Botanical Gardens This is an oasis of beautiful gardens with more than 1,000 species of plants and a zoo with monkeys, birds and snakes.
Flagstaff House (Museum of Tea Ware)
Y Walk along Garden Road to the
Flagstaff House was built in 1846 and was originally the office and residence of the commander of the British Forces. It is the oldest existing Western building in Hong Kong. Free admission.
The Helena May Building
Government House
Currently a hostel for women, this structure was built in 1914 and was occupied by Japanese troops during World War II. Open Mon-Sat, 9am-11pm (except public holidays).
Currently the residence and office of the Chief Executive of Hong Kong, this building is a mixture of European and Japanese architectural styles that reflect its colonial and military past.
Y St. Joseph’s Church is located next
Y Walk along Upper Albert Road to
Y Follow the signs inside the park to Rawlinson House (Park Management Office and Cotton Tree Drive Marriage Registry).
Rawlinson House Listed as a Grade II historic building, it was built in the early 20th century as a residence for the deputy commander of the British Forces. Y Walk up Cotton Tree Drive. Turn right to the Lower Peak Tram Terminus when you pass the Hong Kong Squash Centre.
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Helena May Building.
to the Helena May building.
St. Joseph’s Church St. Joseph’s Church, built in 1871, survived the onslaughts of both World War II and numerous typhoons. It was demolished and rebuilt in the mid-20th century. Y Cross Garden Road via the footbridge to get to the Hong Kong Zoological & Botanical Gardens.
Y Walk along Upper Albert Road to Government House.
the Central Government Offices.
Central Government Offices Completed in 1957 by the British colonial government, the complex is home to most major government offices. Y Walk along Garden Road to St. John’s Cathedral.
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St. John’s Cathedral The oldest surviving western ecclesiastical building in Hong Kong. Built in 13th century Gothic style, the cathedral was completed in 1849. Open 7am-6pm daily. Y Just beyond St. John’s Cathedral is the Former French Mission Building (The Court of Final Appeal).
Former French Mission Building The former French Mission Building, currently the Court of Final Appeal, was built in 1917 in neo-classical style. It’s not open to the public. Y Walk back to Garden Road via Battery Path, and down to the Bank of China Tower.
Bank of China Tower This 70-story, prism-like structure is the work of renowned ChineseAmerican architect I. M. Pei. It is one of the tallest buildings in Hong Kong and has a free observation deck. Open Mon to Fri 9am-6pm; Sat 9am-1pm.
HSBC Building
Y Cross Queen’s Road Central to HSBC.
HSBC Building This is the first building of its size in Hong Kong built entirely of structural steel—without any reinforced concrete in its inner core. It’s designed by acclaimed British architect Norman Foster. d e c e m b e r 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 39
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map of Central Š OpenStreetMap contributors. See openstreetmap.org
40 W H E R E HONG KONG I d e c e m b e r 2 014
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30 Things we LOve about Hong Kong 5
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1 Counting the Ten Thousand
9 Shaking fortune-telling
Buddhas at the eponymous hilltop monastery near Sha Tin.
bamboo sticks at the Wong Tai Sin Temple.
2 Dressing up for high tea at
!0 Kickin' it with Bruce Lee at the Avenue of Stars, Tsim Sha Tsui.
The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6772.
3 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach, Lantau Island.
!1 Shopping at Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui.
!2 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. the Temple Street Night Market, Gough Street, Central. Yau Ma Tei. !3 Hiking along the beautiful Sai Kung peninsula. 5 Spotting endangered pink dolphins with Dolphinwatch !4 Riding the cable car over off Lantau Island, 2984-1414. Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Tian Tan Buddha (Big Buddha). 6 Checking out pandas at Ocean Park. Aberdeen, Lantau Island. 3923-2323. !5 Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at 7 Dining aboard the kitschy-cool Jumbo Floating the Jade Market. Kansu and Restaurant. Shum Wan Pier Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei. Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, !6 Slurping oysters for brunch Aberdeen, 2553-9111. at Café Deco. 1-2/F, The Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., 2849-5111. 8 Cruising Victoria Harbour on the Aqualuna, an authentic !7 Setting our watches by the Chinese fishing junk, Noonday Gun. 221 Gloucester 2116-8821. Rd., Causeway Bay.
4 Having our palms read at
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@4
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!8 Snaking through the high-rises on the Mid-Levels Escalator. Cochrane, Shelley and Peel Streets, Central. !9 Meeting Pui Pui, the famous crocodile, at the eco-friendly Hong Kong Wetland Park. Tin Shui Wai, New Territories, 2708-8885. @0 Taking the Peak Tram all the way to the top. @1 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 23-35 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. @2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building to be constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill. @3 Taking the oldest ride in Hong Kong—the tram from Western (Sheung Wan) to Causeway Bay.
@4 Enjoying free traditional kung fu demonstrations and cultural performances at Kowloon Park every Sunday from 2:30–4:30pm. Weather permitting. @5 Taking a romantic trip from Central to Tsim Sha Tsui on the famous Star Ferry. @6 Walking down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defence, 2569-1500. @7 Drinking in the view at a panoramic watering hole like Eyebar. 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2487-3988. @8 Checking out the old Kowloon-Canton Railway Clock Tower. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. @9 Getting a shave and a trim at the Mandarin Barber. Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4088. #0 Bird watching at the Mai Po Marshes. Mai Po, 2526-4473.
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