Where® Thailand October 2012 by Where Thailand

Thailand

PLUS

o c t o b e r 2 0 12 the complete guide to go ®

Style Makers The designers driving Bangkok’s fashion scene.

Bangkok for kids Chiang Mai’s cafes Vegetarian Festival

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contents ®

l THAILAND l october 2012

the guide

COurtesy of Rouge Rouge

where

Bangkok

18 arts+Culture Three great places to take the kids, plus Bangkok's top galleries and attractions

20 dining A twist on Chinese cuisine, street food in Sukhumvit and the latest dining news

24 Health+Wellness Sample a Japanese hot spring bath right in the heart of the city

26 SHOPS+Services Shop for unique handicrafts while giving something back to local craftspeople

Features

28 nightlife Sukhumvit 11 remains Bangkok's party central with the arrival of this new club

05 l Fashion Forward We meet the rising stars of Bangkok's vibrant fashion scene.

29 Maps Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin

10 l Northern Brews Get your caffeine fix with our guide to the hot new cafés in Chiang Mai

also inside

Escapes

12 Managing Editor, Special Projects Nick Measures Editor Top Koaysomboon General Manager James Fuss Managing Editor Grégoire Glachant Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapong

4 Hot dates 16 Hot Stuff

12 Island News

29 navigate

14 Upcountry news

34 20 Things We Love

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

Marketing Manager Arunee Wilson Marketing Executive Natta Yantasri Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant

MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

Contributors Monthakan Chantra, Tanrak Chiengtong, Marissa Smith On the Cover Kem Issara Cover by Pattarayuth Peantham

Mvp | National Sales Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com

Mvp | Cartography And Circulation General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Morris Comunications Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris Iii President William S. Morris Iv

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/WhereThailand

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

Mvp | Creative Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

Mvp | Technology & Manufacturing Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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hot dates THAILAND

Through Oct 14

Bangkok’s 14th International Festival of Dance & Music

Oct 15-23 Vegetarian Festival

sippakorn yamkasikorn

The vegetarian festival in Bangkok isn’t quite as gruesome as the one in Phuket (See Island News, page 12) but Yaowarat Road, at the very heart of Chinatown, is not to be outdone on the food front. In fact, you’ll see little yellow flags adorning stalls everywhere showing that their food is Jay or meat-free. Expect plenty of street-side nibbles including fake vegetarian meat that’s made to look and taste like duck, goose or beef. For something more visceral, head to the local Chinese temples for ceremonies and even some body piercing or walking on hot coals, if not on the same scale as in Phuket. Yaowarat Rd. and throughout the city.

Now in its 14th year, the latest installment of Bangkok’s International Festival of Dance and Music offers a packed program featuring a total of 15 productions from all over the world, ranging from symphonic orchestras to street dance. Even though the event draws to a close this month there is still time to catch highlights like BBC Planet Earth Live with Orchestra (Oct 5), a screening of the acclaimed documentary accompanied by a live performance of the score, and a magical turn by Swiss illusionist Peter Marvey (Oct 9-10), known for his high flying tricks. Tickets are B700-3,500. For more information and reservations, visit www. thaiticketmajor.com or call 02-262-3456.

Oct 4-7

Nai Lert Park Bangkok International Flower Show 2012 Feast your eyes on gorgeous blooms creatively arranged by some of Thailand’s top florists and floral artists. There will also be gourmet food to try, plants for sale and readings by Thai fortune tellers. Entrance is B120 and all proceeds go to charity. At Swissotel Nai Lert Park, 2 Wireless Rd., 02-253-0123. BTS Phloen Chit.

Oct 16-21 Through Oct 21

Oct 29

This month offers the chance to enjoy Thailand’s first full-scale production of this updated twist on Puccini’s classic musical Madame Butterfly. Moving the setting from Japan to the Vietnam War, it tells the tragic love story of a Vietnamese bar girl and an American soldier. All performances feature English subtitles. Tickets are B500-2,800 and can be purchased through Thai Ticket Major (02-2623456. www.thaiticketmajor.com). At Muangthai Ratchadalai Theatre, 4/F, Esplanade Shopping Center, 99 Ratchadapisek Rd., 02669-8288. www.rachadalai.com. MRT Thailand Cultural Centre.

The origins of this unusual race date back to Chonburi’s days as a major trading center, and it remains a deadly serious business for competitors. Cheered on by big crowds, jockeys ride (or cling) bareback, as their buffalo barrel down a dirt track, trying to cross the line in first place. If you miss the main event, the day-long festival includes countless other traditional contests, from pole climbing to buffalo (and ladies) beauty pageants. For more information, contact TAT Pattaya at 03-8423990 or the TAT Call Center at 1672. www. tourismthailand.org

Miss Saigon

Chonburi BUffalo Race

Bangkok International Gift Fair and Bangkok International Houseware Fair 2012 The ideal event to find that unique gift to take home, the BIG and BIH fair showcases everything from souvenirs and handicrafts to toys and furniture. Reserved for business trade Oct 16-19, the fair opens up to the public from Oct 20-21 (10am-9pm), with shuttle buses running from several hotels. The 1,600 plus booths will cover an area of 40,000-square-meters, so wear some comfortable shoes. At BITEC, 88 Bangna-Trat Rd., 02-507-8361-64. www.bigandbih.com. BTS Bang Na.

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feature

Project Runway As fashion week rolls into town meet the rising designers of the Thai scene. By Top Koaysomboon, photographs by Pattrayuth Peantham

Tawn Chatchavalvong TAWN C. 2/F, Central Chidlom, Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.tawn-c.com Style: As he’s personally fond of 1920s fashion, Tawn’s designs aim to be enduring and classic. “Timeless elegance is my core style. I do readyto-wear clothes that use fine textiles and details. Women these days have several activities during the day, from their day job to an evening party, so an outfit must serve all these purposes.” Tawn C.’s signature looks are pencil skirts and delicate blouses, with adjustable patterns for all sizes. “I love to empower women with my clothes. Women wearing my outfits must feel confident in them. I don’t encourage women to hide what they think are their flaws.” Background: Former PR consultant Tawn Chatchavalvong only opened his first boutique at Bangkok’s high-end

mall Central Chidlom this year after deciding to go back to college three years ago, at the age of 34, to retrain. “I always loved fashion but had no formal education,” explains the international relations graduate. “It was a bit awkward at first, sitting with undergrad kids and learning everything from scratch, but I gave it my all. Fashion is a technical skill you have to study.” After graduating he worked with famous designer Somchai “Kai” Kaewthong (see box, page 8) on the K and I brand, before launching his own collection. Inspiration: “The latest collection was inspired by space travel, imagining what sartorial women would wear on a journey to Mercury. I use black and white, representing the colors of the planet, with floral details to tone it down.”

THAKOON

Tawn at his studio

at Tawn C. STudio

Perhaps the best known Thai designer on the global fashion scene, Thakoon Panichkul was born in Nakhon Phanom before moving to the US as a child. He studied at Boston University and Parsons School of Design, and then worked at Gap and Harper’s Bazaar before launching his first collection under his own name in 2004. He is said to be one of Anna Wintour’s, editor-in-chief of Vogue US, favorite designers while America’s First Lady, Michelle Obama, is one of his loyal customers. www.thakoon.com

Designer’s Choice Poem 236/10 Siam Square Soi 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-4755

“If I had to pick one Thai brand, I choose Poem. Sean (the designer) does a great job when it comes to tailored suits. His pants fit perfectly, they are unparalleled.” october 2012 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 5

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feature Monrissa Leenutaphong Skin on Skin 3/F, Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), Rama 1 Rd., 087-799-0781. BTS National Stadium. www.skinonskin.net Style: A range of women’s wear made from light, wrinkle-free fabrics. “Today’s women wish to look beautiful for an entire day but don’t want to spend time taking care of their clothes. So I use wrinkle-free clothes that are easy to wear and look after.”

Monrissa with her latest collection

Background: The four-month-old Skin on Skin is the Bangkok Art and Culture Center’s (BACC) very first fashion boutique, run by Monrissa “Beau” Leenutaphong, a Goldsmith London graduate in Image and Communications. It all started when Monrissa couldn’t find clothes she liked at affordable prices in Bangkok. So she started her own brand to pass on what she had learned in the UK. She got the name for the

label from three core elements: the use of animal skin in terms of genuine leather; the use of skin-colored beige as a predominate color; and, finally, that the clothes aim to be comfortable and easy to wear, like a second skin. Monrissa never went to a fashion school, but has learnt from her family. “I’ve never learned to make patterns. But i think it’s like drawing eyeliner, it’s common sense. It’s also thanks to my grandma and my mom who know how to sew.” She also has shown her stubborn streak in picking the location, “I opened a boutique at BACC due to my artistic side. I won’t follow the path of others. I knew it wouldn’t make a lot of money. I knew there would be problems. But I was stubborn, I wanted to help develop Thai fashion in my own way, instead of working for other brands.” Inspiration: “To me, fashion is just another kind of art. It’s more fun when we don’t see it as fashion. That’s the core idea I’ve learned and try to convey through my collection, which is based on artistically sophisticated themes.”

Designer’s Choice Wonder Anatomie Siam Center PopCont, next to Siam Discovery Center (until Nov 30) and 3/F, Siam Center (from Dec 1), BTS Siam. www.facebook.com/wonderanatomie

skin on skin

“I like the fun in the materials they use [for their Hermes- and Chanel-style paper bags]. It’s new and interesting. I’m an anti-brand person so I think people should buy things because of their creativity rather than for the sake of the brand.”

The Headliners | Top Thai Designers

Sretsis

Milin

Sretsis

Milin

A result of three sisters’ shared love of fashion, Sretsis is a hit with girly ladies thanks to their feminine dresses and cute accessories. Try 2/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-6561125. BTS Chit Lom

Another Central St. Martins graduate, Milin Yuwacharaskul started Milin in 2008, offering womenswear that combines sensible aesthetics and architectural shapes. Try 2/F, The Emporium, 02-2599173. BTS Phrom Phong.

Disaya The signature themes of Disaya Sorakraikittikul’s designs are playful prints and details overlaid on feminine shapes and silky textiles. This Central St. Martins graduate also owns lingerie brand Boudoir. Try 2/F, CentralWorld, 02-646-1828. BTS Chit Lom

Disaya

Kloset Kloset’s colorful prints are so popular that young female fans queue up out the front of their stores for the launch of each new scarf collection. They also produce cute dresses, bags, stationery and accessories. Try 1/F, Siam Paragon, 02-610-7907. BTS Siam.

Kloset

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feature Kwankao Savetavimala Kwankao 1/F, Siam Paragon, 02-690-1000. BTS Siam; 1/F, Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www. kwankao.com Style: A range of feminine mix-andmatch pieces covering everything from dresses to shoes and accesories, designed to fit every occasion. kwankao in her A/W 2012

Background: The brainchild of Kwankao “Paeng” Savetavimala, a celebrity and DJ; Kwankao’s passion

for fashion overcame her lack of formal training. “I never get bored spending hours with clothes. My love of fashion drove me to visit fashion fairs overseas and learn everything I could. I did research for more than a year, before I launched my first collection.” Kwankao’s new Autumn/Winter collection, inspired by the five elements, features prints and satorial dresses, and will be available in store late October. Inspiration: “Kwankao’s women are modern-day ladies who might look well-mannered at first glance but actually they hide a sexy, playful side. So our items might look simple, but they hide sexy details.”

Designer’s Choice

ELLE Bangkok fashion Week The most established and longest-running fashion week in Thailand returns for its 14th year at CentralWorld on October 11-14. The event will feature 14 runway shows from the very best Thai designers. The general public can’t get tickets to the runway shows but there will be a Thai designer sale event in front of CentralWorld running throughout the fashion week. www.ellethailand. com

Theatre 2/F, Central City Bang Na, 02-361-0733.

Kwankao’s workshop

“I love the detailing used by Theatre. Jom (the designer) is a true genius who successfully blends together Asian and modern touches.”

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feature Top Places to Shop for Young Thai Designers Siam Center. The third floor of Siam Center is home to most of the established Thai fashion brands like Theatre, Greyhound, and Kloset. Note: The mall is currently undergoing renovation and will reopen in December. BTS Siam. Chatuchak Market. Section 3 and 4 of the world largest weekend market, close to the MRT, is where to find young up and coming designers at bargain prices. BTS Mo Chit, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Terminal 21. The fun, air-con shopping mall stocks an expansive list of local designers on the 1st (womenswear) and 2nd (menswear) floors. BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit.

Kem Issara KEMISSARA 74/4 Ekkamai Soi 22 or Pridi Banomyong 41 (next to Tor See School), 086-527-6266. www. kemissara.com Style: This line of womenswear features minimal designs, influenced by American sportswear. “Kemissara is for working women. My clothes are not very girly but I use some textile techniques, from pleats to layering, to create interesting details that help bring out the wearers’ femininity.” Background: The daughter of a real estate tycoon who owns Sri Panwa resort in Phuket, Krutpetch “Kem” Issara started her own fashion house six months ago. Kem completed textile fashion courses at Chelsea College of Art and Design and London College of Fashion but her first real fashion experiences came from her time as an intern. “What I studied was just theories. But I earned real experience when I did an internship at Chloe and DvF in London, especially DvF in New York where I was working very hard seven days a week. That helped a lot when I started my own brand.” Kem will be presenting her next collection at Elle Bangkok

kem issara

Fashion week this month, and will be opening her second boutique at Siam Center once renovations are completed in December. Inspiration: Her inspiration mostly comes from deconstructing the details found in natural objects and re-presenting them through minimal cuts and lines. She claims not to follow trends, nor really read fashion magazines. “Once you see other people’s designs, they mark spots in your brain and you might end up copying those designs without even realizing.”

kemissara

Designer’s Choice Dries Van Noten Club 21, Erawan Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02-250-7719. BTS Chit Lom.

“I love how they balance the masculine and feminine with their simple-yetsophisticated designs.”

Meet the Originals | Long-standing Thai designers Kai Boutique

Theatre

Greyhound

In the business for over 40 years, Somchai “Kai” Kaewthong is best known for the feminine designs of his wedding and evening gowns, creating outfits that feature lots of delicate lace and silk touches. 2/F, Peninsula Plaza, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-6522108/9. BTS Ratchadamri.

Sirichai “Jom” Daharanont started Theatre 27 years ago, and continues to offer dramatic and unique outfits that mix fine materials with sophisticated details, cuts and patterns. 2/F, Central City Bang Na, 02-361-0733.

Perhaps still the leading brand for cutting-edge Thai fashion, Greyhound’s men’s and women’s wear combines a palette of basic colors, mixed with playful touches created by unusual designs, shapes, patterns and prints. Try 1/F, Siam Paragon, 02-129-4358. BTS Siam.

kai boutique

Theatre

Greyhound

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Rouge Rouge M/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-258-4230. BTS Siam. Facebook.com/RougeRougeThailand Style: Leather clutches and bags with artsy, surreal twists for edgy women. Background: Best known on the Thai celeb circuit for her luscious red lips, Wannaporn “Duang” Poshyananda has been involved in the local scene for a few years. After graduating from the Instituto Marangoni in Milan she worked as a publicist for Pucci and Christian Lacroix. But last year she

launched hip children’s wear line Rhapsody and then bag brand Rouge Rouge. “It wasn’t planned, actually. I was invited to design a limited-edition bag for their Zen Design Showcase project last year. So my friend and I, Marc, who was an accessory designer for Givenchy, created three geometric-style bags inspired by Milanese architecture. We called them “three sisters.” When I took them to the event, people kept asking to buy them so I decided to take it seriously.” Inspiration: Wannaporn is now focused on Rouge Rouge, with the latest collection inspired by surrealist artists like Salvadore Dali. ”I wish I could have my store decked out in a surreal style, too, but I have to take it step by step.”

Dali collection

COurtesy of Rouge Rouge

Wannaporn Poshyananda

Designer’s Choice Again & Again Marketplace Thonglor, Sukhumvit 55, 089-486-5359. BTS Thong Lo.

“I love wearing vintage clothes so Again & Again is the best place to go as they stock a lot of great vintage finds.”

Wannaporn

outique

hound

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AROUND THAILAND Narisa Leelathavornpanya

Coffee Culture

sala cafe

Aside from its ancient temples and beautiful setting, Chiang Mai also has a serious caffeine addiction. By Top Koaysomboon Ristr8to

While Bangkok’s coffee scene is defined by ubiquitous Starbucks outlets, cutesy startups and mobile street carts, there’s a far more sophisticated coffee culture brewing up in Chiang Mai. Known as the area with the highest density of coffee shops in Thailand, Nimmanhaemin Road is also Chiang Mai’s hippest destination. The main road and its small lanes are packed with cute restaurants, kitschy boutiques, famous nightclubs and, of course, lots and lots of cafes making it a great spot to spend the day exploring. Sat right at the opening of Nimmanhaemin Soi 3 is Doppio Ristr8to (15/3 Nimmanhaemin Rd. front of Soi 3, 053215-278. Open daily 8:08am-11:08pm), arguably the most happening coffee shop in town thanks to owner Arnon “Tong” Thitiprasert’s appearance on a popular

Librarista

Thai TV show that tracks down the kingdom’s cutest vendors. The crowds may be drawn in by the pretty face but the café’s customers return for the fine coffee blends and Tong’s dab hand at latte art. After six years in Sydney, where he won several coffee-making awards, this Trang-born barista decided to relocate to Chiang Mai to open Ristr8to in 2011. Ristretto means a short shot of espresso, but Tong ranked 6th at the last World Latte Art Championship, so you can’t really not order a hot latte. After selecting your coffee beans (we like the Ethiopian offering), grab a seat at the counter and watch as Tong skillfully pours milk over your steaming espresso shot to create beautiful patterns, talking enthusiastically all the while. We had a phoenix last time we were there and it came out beautifully.

Librarista

Akha Ama (1/F, Mathan Apartment, 9/1 Hussadisawi Rd. Soi 3, 086-9158600. Open Thu-Tue 8am-8pm) offers a somewhat different experience. Hidden away in the middle of nowhere, the small homey café uses fresh coffee beans produced by the Akha hill tribe community in Mae Suay, Chiang Rai. The story started back in 2010, when Lee Ayu Chuepa, who was educated in Chiang Rai, decided to open up a small café to expand the market for his village’s coffee products and raise local living standards. Aside from a three-day barista course, Lee hasn’t had any formal coffee schooling—rather he learned everything he knows from his mother. “I’ve lived with coffee since I was born,” he says. And this provides the explanation for the café’s name: “Ama” means mother in the Akha language. There are no fancy decorations or showy latte art here, but every single cup of coffee is made with loving attention to flavor with beans that have been certified by the Specialty Coffee Association of Europe for three years running. That warm feeling? That’s

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Around thailand the knowledge that the café’s profits are going straight back to the community.

Where to stay Tamarind Village

Head back to the Nimmanhaemin area, where there’s a new kid on the block. Set in a 60s-style house with its own courtyard, like many other cafés in the neighborhood, what sets Librarista (Nimmanhaemin Soi 5, 053-895-678. Open daily 10am-9pm) apart is that it’s the first to couple a coffee shop with a proper library (not a bookstore). Guests who buy a cup of coffee are allowed to use the well-stocked library for two hours. If you find yourself out of town in Mae Rim then Sala Café (same entrance as Four Seasons Resort on Mae RimSamoeng Rd., Mae Rim, 053-860-996. Open daily 8am-6pm) is a cute option, set in a two-story wooden house complete with garden, surrounded by verdant hills.

A compound of traditional style rooms sitting underneath the shade of an ancient Tamarind Tree never fails to charm with its Lanna-inspired decor, and location next to Thapae walking street. Ratchadamnoen Rd., Phra Singha, 053418-896/-9, www.tamarindvillage.com

Zensala

137 Pillars House

Set on the banks of the Ping River, this edgy 11-room boutique hotel boasts boxy, minimalist structures with raw-cement surfaces. Local teak furniture adds warmth as does the forested riverbank location. 168 Patan Rd., Patan, Muang, 053-225-888. www.zensalaresort.com

137 Pillars House Formerly the beautiful residence of the manager of the British East Borneo Company, the renovated teak house is now home to a library and restaurant surrounded by 30 spacious suites decked out in a British-colonial theme. 2 Na Wat Gate Road Soi 1, Wat Gate, 053-247788, 081-553-4871. www.137pillarshouse.com Tamarind Village

Zensala

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ESCAPES

TRAVEL TIDBIT Direct flights to Krabi and Surat Thani

Island News

New lost-cost carrier Thai Smile is now offering direct flights daily from Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport to Krabi and Surat Thani. Or more accurately, it’s taken over those routes from sister airline THAI Airways. You can still make bookings through either website, which offer the same deals: roundtrip tickets start at B5,000 flying Bangkok to Krabi, and at B4,790 between Bangkok and Surat Thani (these prices exclude airport taxes, B100 per trip). www.thaismileair.com

Grand openings, hot promotions and special events at Thailand’s top beach destinations.

AirAsia increases baggage fees When it comes to budget airlines, the devil is in the detail. Apart from moving to Don Muang Airport from Oct 1, Air Asia (www. airasia.com) is increasing its baggage fees at check-in. Buying your luggage allowance online is always the cheapest option (B300), but from now on the price at the counter will increase from B600 to B900 for domestic flights, and from B750 to B1,100 for international flights. The fee for exceeding the regular 15kg weight allowance is also up: passengers will now be paying B525 per extra kilogram. Drink gallery

PHUKET | Event Vegetarian Festival Held on the ninth lunar month of the Chinese calendar, this year falling on October 14-23, Phuket’s annual nine-day Vegetarian Festival is one of the most dramatic and intense events in Thailand. It sees worshippers abstain from vices and take part in sacred rituals believed to honor the gods and bring good fortune. The festival kicks off October 14 with pole raising at the shrines, followed by days of prayer, offerings and noisy street processions (expect drums, firecrackers and fireworks). However, the festival in Phuket is best-known for its group of dedicated followers, known as mah song, who become possessed by gods and spirits during the event. They undertake various grisly trials, which include walking across burning coals (8pm, October 20 at Saphan Hin, Phuket Rd. and 8pm, October 22 at shrines such as Cherng Thalay, Si Sunthon Rd., near Bangtao Beach); climbing ladders fitted with knives as rungs (8pm, October 21 at Bang Neow Shrine, Bang Neow Rd. and others); and undertaking extreme

Phuket Vegetarian Festival

body piercings featuring knives and hooks, which are then displayed at the morning processions. Events will be held at nine shrines, mostly located in Phuket Town, with one of the biggest street processions making its way down Phuket Road on October 20 from 7am. To join in the festival spirit, wear white and sample the jay (vegetarian) food, highlighted by yellow flags (the fasting diet is actually closer to vegan than vegetarian, and also forbids strong-smelling ingredients like garlic). For more details visit www. phuketvegetarian.com or call TAT’s Phuket office (076-212-213, 076-211-036). We recommend rechecking event times closer to the date because schedule changes are likely.

Centara Nova

SAMUI | New Opening Hip designer resort The Library has just added a new bar to its compound. At Drink Gallery, the drinks are meant to outshine the food, and there’s an artistic approach to everything they do. Decked out in pop art, raw-wood furniture and glam chandeliers, the high-ceilinged space has a SoHo gallery vibe (the oversized artwork above the bar also links to their shocking red pool). The drinks list focuses on wine and cocktails, while the music is soft chill-out tunes. The place closes at midnight but makes for a nice warm-up option if you feel brave enough to explore the nearby Soi Green Mango. And if you’re up before noon the next day, they

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ESCAPES open for breakfast at 9am. As part of the Samui International Jazz Festival, the venue will play host to a concert by the Karen Devroop Jazz Quartet on October 16. The Library Koh Samui, Chaweng Beach Rd., 077-422-299. Open daily 11am-midnight. www.thelibrary.co.th

New Room Unico Grand Sandara

SAMUI | Event With concerts lined up in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Hua Hin and Samui, this seems to be the season for jazz festivals (www. thaijazztravel.com). If you’re heading down south, check out the Samui International Jazz Music Festival (www.samuijazz. com) running from October 14-20. Thai and international musicians will perform at five different locations on the island (October 14-18, concerts B500 per person). The main location, though, is on Chaweng Beach, in front of the Amari Palm Reef Resort, featuring free concerts on October 19-20 (077-422-015/-19). Must-see acts include American singer Paulette McWilliams (who’s worked with legends like Quincy Jones and Luther Vandross), Dutch trio the Beets Brothers, and Thailand’s own Koh Mr. Saxman. Check the Samui Jazz website for hotels offering special promotion rates over the festival period.

PATTAYA | Hotel Deal

The Unico Group recently unveiled its newest property at Cha Am Beach. The beachfront hotel promises affordable stays and houses 122 guestrooms in four room types (22 to 120 sq meters) set in two wings separated by a long swimming pool. Rates

start from B2,040 with breakfast, for early birds who book at least seven days in advance. The pool access rooms (from B2,550) seem to be the nicest choice, though. 241 Ruamchit Rd., Cha Am, Petchaburi, 032 470 777, www.unicograndsandara. com

VIETNAM

Deal-chasers listen up: Centara Nova MYANMAR LAOS

Hotel & Spa in Pattaya is offering an Chiang Mai almost half-price discount through to October 31. For the rest of the low-season, you can book a deluxe room with breakfast starting from B1,650.Chaiyaphum Book online at www. centarahotelsresorts.com and look for the ‘Summer Promotion.’

Chiang Mai

THAILAND

Bangkok Cha Am

ANDAMAN SEA

Samui

Bangkok

Pattaya

Rayong

GULF OF SIAM

Samui

Surat Thani Krabi

Phang Nga

Phuket

SOUTH CHINA SEA MALAYSIA

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Phuket

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ESCAPES TRAVEL TIDBIT Airport Updates

permanently scatterbrained

With the construction of new immigration gates at Suvarnabhumi Airport now complete, there’s a new security screening process as well: after getting your boarding pass, you’ll now have to go up to the mezzanine above the check-in counters for a security body-scan before making your way back downstairs and through immigration. Across town, the domestic flights hub Don Muang Airport will be open and ready to welcome Air Asia flights this month after a B1.6 billion renovation.

Upcountry news New hotels, special events and great promos at Thailand’s rural retreats. Naga

Novotel Platinum

New Room Novotel Bangkok Platinum The latest Bangkok hotel from the Accor Group is ideal for visiting shopaholics. Located above Bangkok’s premier wholesale mall, the Platinum Shopping Complex, and a short walk from CentralWorld, the brand new Novotel houses 283 guestrooms and suites decked out in a simple yet contemporary style. The Square serves up all-day dining and there are two bars, one poolside. The InBalance fitness center, with its ivory hues and airy space looks almost too beautiful to be a gym. A nice touch is that fact that staff will come and collect your bags from the shops in Platinum Mall so you don’t have to carry them with you. 220 Petchaburi Rd., 02-160-7100. www.novotel.com

NONG KHAI | Event Naga Fireball Festival Every October around the night of the full moon, hundreds of glowing orbs mysteriously rise up out of the Mekong River and disappear into the sky. According to legend, the Bang Fai Phaya Nak (fireballs) are made by a mythical serpent (phaya nak) who lives in the river. Thousands of people will come and line the banks of the river in a bid to witness the spectacle. This year it’s due to take place October 29-31, so why not travel up to Nong Khai province and decide for yourself whether the inexplicable phenomenon has supernatural or scientific causes. A festival is organized around the main event which includes long-tail boat races and sound and light shows. For more information, contact the Nong Khai Tourist Information Center at 04-242-1326 or the TAT Call Center at 1672.

Hotel des artists

MAE HONG SON | Hotel Deal Lush Pai A charming little town situated about 50km north of Chiang Mai, Pai has long been a popular destination for Thais and backpackers thanks its picturesque mountain setting, cool weather and laidback atmosphere. While the local crowds love to flock to Pai in the chilly winter months, we’d recommend avoiding the rush and heading here during the rainy season when the town is at its greenest and quietest. If you’re quick, then you can also take advantage of some cheaper room rates, too. For example, until October 15, Hotel des Artists, Rose of Pai (www. hotelartists.com/pai), lists its rooms at B2,000 for a deluxe and B2,500 for a river view suite, compared to B3,6004,500 during peak season. Set in a vintage wooden house, one side of the resort faces the walking street while the other looks out over the Pai River.

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ESCAPES UDON THANI | Hotel Deal Central Savings Those seeking to explore northern Isaan might consider Udon Thani’s eponymous capital as a convenient home base. A blend of new and ancient cultures, this up-and-coming city is also only an hour’s drive from World Heritage-listed archaeological site Ban Chiang (where visitors can glimpse the remains of a Bronze Age village). Take advantage of the special rates on offer from the downtown Centara Hotel & Convention Centre (www.centarahotelsresorts.com, 04-2343555), who are discounting their ‘Web Saver’ deals by an additional 30%. Through October 26, get a room and breakfast at the recently-renovated 4-star hotel from B1,330 for a superior room (service charge and tax excluded). For details and reservations call 02-101-1234 ext 1 or visit www.centarahotelsresorts.com

CHIANG RAI | New Opening COUNTRYWIDE | News River Retreat Park Prices Hike Those who really want to get off the From October 1, all visitors will have to pay beaten track may be intrigued to hear more to get into 33 of Thailand’s national about Chiang Khong, a small, town in parks. Entrance fees for foreign adults and Chiang Rai province. Sat on the banks of children will increase by B100, to B500 and the Mekong River, it is perhaps best known B400 respectively. www.dnp.go.th as one of the main border-crossing points for those heading or coming overland VIETNAM from Luang Prabang in Laos. Chiang Khong also happens to be blessed with a MYANMAR Chiang LAOS Khong sleepy beauty, thanks to the peaceful river Pai setting and the surrounding jungle-clad mountains, leading to a stirring of interest from intrepid travellers. On the riverfront, Nong Khai the long-running Chiang Khong Teak Hotel Udon Thani has recently added seven new “riverview rooms” decked out in simple design with a Kanchanaburi Lanna twist and featuring private balconies Bangkok (B1,800/night). There is also a new restaurant that serves traditional ThaiANDAMAN Lao recipes, along with a river view.SEA 666 M8, Vieng, Chiang Khong, Chiang Rai. Reservations at 02-628-9700. Samui

GULF OF SIAM

Phang Nga Phuket

SOUTH CHINA SEA Chiang Khong Teak Hotel

TRAVEL TIDBIT Shopping Discount Card Tourists here to do some shopping could get some great savings by using the Miracle Thailand Card. Valid through December 31, the debit card from Krung Thai Bank (KTB call center 1551, www.ktb.co.th) gives users 5-70% discounts at more than 400 plus brandname stores located in shopping centers like Siam Paragon and MBK Centre. To get one just take your passport along to any KTB branch, KTB currency exchange booth, or select travel agencies. The card works like a debit card with a minimum stored value of US$3 and the amount can be topped up at any KTB branch or KTB currency exchange booth. As an added bonus, it provides personal accident insurance for seven days after the card is registered (register the card before use at www.cb.ktb.co.th/miracle). You can also refund leftover credit at the same outlets before flying home.

MALAYSIA

INDONESIA

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hot stuff

True Blue

From gadgets to fashion, cool blue is this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s freshest trend. 1 Dolce &Gabbana sneakers, B16,000 2 Jack Spade Atlas Case bag, B13,200 3 Milin Horsepower sandles, B4,450 4 Milin License Plate shorts, B3,850 5 Milin Spoiler dress, B6,850 6 Zara umbrella, B690 7 Chanel nail color, B900 8 Samsung Galaxy S III, B21,900 9 Urbanears Plattan Denim, B3,790 !0 iPod Touch, B9,900/32GB !1 MAC Lunar Extra Dimension

eyeshadow, B890

!2 Coccinelle Minimal, B11,500

!2 2

!1 3

!0 8

1 9

Chanel and MAC. At leading department stores, try Beauty Hall, M/F, Siam Paragon, 02-690-1000. BTS Siam; or 1/F, Central Chidlom, 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. D&G. M/F, Siam Paragon, 02-610-9333. Jack Spade. 1/F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-690-7000. BTS Siam/Chit Lom. iPod. At iStudio stores nationwide, try 3/F, Siam Paragon, 02-610-9315/-8. Milin. At leading department stores nationwide, try 1/F, Siam Paragon, 02-690-1000. Coccinelle. Try M/F, Siam Paragon, 02-690-1000. Urbanears. Try .life (dot life), 4/F, Siam Discovery Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-0520/-2. BTS Siam. Samsung. At leading department stores nationwide, try Samsung Plaza, 2/F, Siam Paragon, 02-610-9584. Zara. Try 2/F, CentralWorld, 02-646-1535.

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where

the guide ART

Thai Trends: Art in the Ninth Reign

This major new exhibition explores the trends and changes in the local art scene through the current reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Occupying six floors of the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, it is broken down to cover a number of themes including: Search for Thai Identity, Abstraction and Individualism, Gender and Marginality, and Socio Political Struggle. The result is an intriguing insight into Thai art over the past sixty years featuring the work of some of Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading artists like Thawan Duchanee, Chakraphan Posayakrit and Manit Sriwanichpoom alongside exciting new talent like Maitree Siriboon and Alex Face. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a collection of rare art posters on display between the exhibition spaces and a number of ongoing related events, seminars and workshops. Through Nov 4, 2012, 939 Rama I Rd., Pathumwan, 02214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th YM16

arts + CULTURE..................................... 18-19 dining........................................................20-23 health + wellness...........................24-25

shops + services.................................26-27 nightlife.........................................................28

navigate.........................................................29 maps............................................................29-33

Note that the reference at the end of the listings (WS24, ZD3, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the individual maps on pages 29-33. Listings without coordinates indicate locations not within the map. october 2012 I WHER E th a i l a n d 17

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Art+Culture BANGKOK

Art Exhibition Highlights

Radu die 1. Dawn of the Evening: Entering Act V — One of the kingdom’s most established visual artists, Michael Shaowanasai, returns to Thailand after a two year break for self-reflection with this solo exhibition. Tackling issues of sexuality, sensuality, identity, representation and provocation, it also deals with his life from school in Bangkok to his current status after two decades as an artist. Oct 5–Nov 4. H Gallery, 201 Sathorn Soi 12, 085-021-5508. Open WedMon, 10am–6pm. www.hgallerybkk.com

Disco Buddha — Artist Kamthorn Paowattanasuk presents his perspective on modern-day Buddhism and its significance in Thai society through a range of colorful and surreal artworks with golden images of famous monks at their center. Through Oct 28. Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 87 Pan Rd. (off Silom Rd.), 02-234-6700. Open Tue-Sun 11am7pm. WQ27

Rueng Nak Hua — After the controversy caused by Lady Gaga wearing a traditional khon headdress during her Bangkok performance earlier this year, Museum Siam seeks to build a better understanding of the Thai tradition of wearing hats, headdresses and crowns. Through Dec 9, Museum Siam, 4 Sanam Chai Rd., 02-225-2777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm.

ART GALLERIES 100 TONSON GALLERY — With a prime location and well-designed space, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-684-1527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20 BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTRE (BACC) — The city’s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art-related shops in its impressive 11-story structure. 939 Rama I Rd., Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th YM16 GOSSIP GALLERY — This multifaceted space showcases contemporary pieces from both local and international artists. 3/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-2375568. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. gossipgallerybkk72.com XI10 NATIONAL GALLERY — Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd., 02-281-2224, 02-282-2639-40. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www.national-gallery. go.th WQ27 THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes. 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-2815360/1. Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. www. queengallery.org WS27

THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC)— Home to a large art library, and host to temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-9pm. www.tcdc.or.th ZC4

Silom galleria — This large mall hosts a range of modern Asian art under one roof. Highlight galleries include: Tang Contemporary Art, which covers modern Chinese art, and Thavibu Gallery, which features works by Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists. 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-266-5454. The mall is open daily 10am-8pm, though some galleries have different opening times. XI10

MUSEUMS

tcdc

SERINDIA GALLERY — Run by a publishing company, this charming gallery spa focuses on the art and culture of Asia. OP Garden, Unit 3101-3201, 4-6 Soi Charoen Krung 36, 02238-6410. Open Tue-Sun 11am-8pm. www. serindiagallery.com XJ10 SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — More of a shop than a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai artworks. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040. Open daily 9am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www. sombatpermpoongallery.com XL21

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. B100. www. jimthompsonhouse.com YM15 MUSEUM SIAM — This completely restored colonial-style building is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-2252777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. B300. www. museumsiam.com WQ23

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Art+Culture

New Museum of Floral Culture —

Founded by one of Thailand’s leading florists, Sakul Intakul, The Museum of Floral Culture tells the story of how geography, tradition, and belief have influenced the handling and presentation of flowers, and in turn, how these have affected the course of history. Samsen Soi 28, Dusit, 02-669-3633/4. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Tours in English run daily at 11am. B150.

Museum of FLoral Culture

NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous property houses some of the most extraordinary architecture, art and antiques in the country. Na Phrathat Rd., 02-215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. B50. www.nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th

Y Kids Days Out

A round up of the best family-friendly venues in town:

Funarium This giant indoor soft play area is a great option for those parents looking for somewhere safe for their children to blow off some steam. Offering painting, crafts, bike riding, roller blading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas, there’s plenty for the kids to do. 111/1 Sukhumvit 26, 02-665-6555. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 8:30am-8:30pm. B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults for three hours. www.funarium.co.th

Siam Ocean World Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. Highlights include the underwater tunnel, penguin enclosure and the glass bottom boat tour, as well as the chance to dive with the aquarium’s sharks. Basement, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.,02687-2000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm. B900 for adults, B700 for children. YM17

Flow House If you’re missing the beach, the why not go surfing in the middle of the city? That’s what this latest attraction offers, thanks to a special machine which gives a similar experience to riding a real wave. Flow House also features bars, restaurants and retail shops specializing in water sports gear. Lessons are available for novices and prices cover board hire, use of showers and towels. Sukhumvit Soi 26. Open Sun-Thu 8am11pm; Fri-Sat 8am-midnight. Prices start from B550 per hour. www.flowhousebangkok.com

WQ27

attractions Grand palace — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. Free tours in English available at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm. B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25 SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household features eight Thai-style houses that showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period. 02-354 Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-2461775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www.suanpakkad.com Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) — Sat on the river’s edge the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmerstyle tower) is decorated with millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means “morning” and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arun Amarin Rd. Wat Arun Pier. WP22 Wat traimit Wittayaram — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm. Wat phra kaeo (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) — Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace, this important religious site is home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. Also, don’t miss the exquisite mural wall paintings. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25 october 2012 I WHER E Tha i l a n d 19

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dining BANGKOK

Mandopop

Mandopop promises to change your perception of Chinese restaurants, from the décor to the food. Chef Adian Chua, from Singapore, looks to modernize Chinese cuisine in terms of its presentation while maintaining authenticity through the use of traditional recipes and techniques. The modern, moodily-lit design features a striking blue theme and an open kitchen alongside more traditional touches like carved wood details and screens. The food is traditional with minor tweaks such as the steamed prawn dumplings with spinach skin (B140), foie gras puree with scallop wonton dumplings (B250) and stir-fried vegetables with homemade spinach tofu (B200). Oriental Residence, 110 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., 02-125-9000. Open daily noon-2:30pm; Sun-Thu 6:30-11pm; Fri-Sat 6:30pm-1am. BTS Phloen Chit.

DOWNTOWN celadon — Thai. $$$$ Surrounded by lotus ponds, Celadon’s Thai pavilion contains elegant candlelit interiors that help accentuate the refined set menus, such as the seven-course Bai Horapa set. The Sukhothai Hotel, 13/3 South Sathorn Rd., 02344-8888. Open daily noon-3pm, 6:30-11pm.

Eat Me — International. $$$$ The décor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic. The kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 3pm-1am. XG11

Drinking Tea, Eating rice — Japanese. $$$$ Stylishly simple in design, this restaurant allows the food to take center stage. Choose from top-quality sushi, sashimi, teppanyaki and kaiseki options, and wash it down with their extensive sake collection. 3/F, The Conrad Hotel, 87 Witthayu Rd., 02-690-9999. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm. YN21

Gianni Ristorante — Italian. $$$$ “Gianni’s,” as it’s referred to by most, has earned its following with consistently outstanding food, an elegant atmosphere and smooth service. 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-652-2922. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm. YM20

Pick D’Sens — French. $$$$ The Frenchimported eatery by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers has all the oomph one might expect. The dimly-lit dining room has view of Lumphini Park, and the food is bold and exciting. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000 ext. 2499. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10pm. XF10 Erawan tea room — Thai. $$$$ With a classy oriental décor, five-star service and a fine tea selection, Erawan Tea Room also impresses with its authentic Thai dishes and monthly-themed menus. 2/F, Erawan Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02254-1234. Open daily 10am-10pm. YN18

Pick Gaggan — Indian. $$$$ After a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and some wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02-652-1700. BTS Chit Lom. 6pmmidnight. YO19 Jim Thompson Bar & Restaurant — Thai. $$$ Located in the former home of Siamese silk expert Jim Thompson, the open-air restaurant by a small lotus pond and its air-conditioned dining room serve up authentic Thai food and simple Western dishes. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, 02-612-3601. www.jimthompson.com. Open daily 9am-5pm, 7-11pm. BTS National Stadium. YM15

Pick issaya siamese club — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef Ian Kittichai returns to his home country with this restaurant, set in a delightful wooden mansion and featuring inventive twists on classic Thai recipes. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., Sathorn Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$

Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Area guide Downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods Lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 Upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

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dining La Monita Taqueria — Mexican. $$ Handsdown the best place for a quesadilla or fish taco. The décor and service aren’t much, but you won’t care after your third Reposado Margarita. Mahatun Plaza, 888/26 Phloenchit Rd., 02-6509581. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am10pm. YM21

Pick Nahm — Thai. $$$$ Former holder of a Michelin star, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open daily noon-2pm, 7-11pm. XG13

Pick Niu’s — Italian. $$$$ Muted tones, crisp

Lower Sukhumvit 11 Gallery — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34, Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. ZB1 Above Eleven — Fusion. $-$$ The twist of this rooftop bar and restaurant, apart from a great city view, is a concept that focuses on Nikkei cuisine: a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. 32/F Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-9300. www.aboveeleven.com ZA1

white tablecloths and large windows let the inventive and delicious Italian food take center stage. Niu’s also has an extensive wine list and often hosts top-name jazz acts downstairs. Baan Silom, 661 Silom Rd., 02-266-5333. Open daily 5pm-1am. XI10 pomodoro — Italian. $$$ This venue focuses on classic dishes with a Mediterranean leaning. G/F, CRC Tower, All Season Place, 87/2 Witthayu Rd., 02-685-3930/1. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. YN21 Reflexions — French. $$$$ Elegant but edgy, with its raw black-and-white photographs of Bangkok, Reflexions is authentic French food without the stuffiness. Chef Thibault Chiumenti cooks with an eye for tradition and bold flavors. 3/F, Plaza Athénée, 61 Witthayu Rd., 02-650-8800. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm. YN21 Ruen Urai — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house, decorated with a blend of contemporary furniture and rare Thai crafts, it offers a polished menu of solid recipes. Rose Hotel, 188, Surawong Rd., 02266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. XF8

Pick Sra bua — Thai. $$$$ The sister of Michelin-starred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen offers Thai food with a contemporary, almost molecular, twist in a soaring, glittering palace dotted with fake rice fields. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. BTS Siam. Open daily noon-11pm. YL17

sra bua

Taling Pling —Thai. $$-$$$ This old favorite sees Bangkokians rub shoulders with tourists to enjoy classic Thai dishes and some lesser known options in a charming old house. 60 Soi Pan, Silom Rd., 02-234-4872. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 11am-10pm. XI11

Pick Zuma — Japanese. $$$$ Their generous salads mix avocado and fresh sushi. The bar is made from a single, monumental slab of stone and the garden is air-conditioned. It’s all wonderfully glamorous. G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-636-0002. Open Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm. YN18

zense

Dining news Top of the World The rooftop Zense Gourmet Deck & Lounge Panorama (17/F, CentralWorld, 02-1009898. www.zensebangkok.com) is back in the heart of Bangkok. Taste dishes from their five kitchens—White Café (fusion), Gianni Ristorante (Italian), The Kikusui (Japanese), Red (Indian) and To Die For (dessert) all under the renovated roof courtesy of Amata Luphaiboon, who designed Sala Phuket Resort and the Six Senses Hideaway Samui.

Riverside Dining Newly-opened eatery Steve Café and Cuisine (68 Soi Sri Ayuthaya 21, Sri Ayuthaya Rd., Dusit, 081-868-0744, 02-281-0915. www. stevecafeandcuisine.com) offers a riverside setting and a charming, brightly painted old house with a large open-air terrace. The food is Thai and recommended dishes included tom klong gai na (sour and spicy soup boiled with chicken, B160), spaghetti with dried salted fish (B130) and gang luang sai bua goong mae nam (Southern sour soup with lotus stems and river prawns, B160).

Artsy Eat The Chiang Mai artists collective Yonyang recently opened a street stall-style eatery, Krua Khun Kan by Yonyang at Hof Eat & Art (2/F, Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, 939 Rama 1 Rd., 081-595-0562. BTS National Stadium). The venue is decorated with performance props, and the walls plastered with black handwriting. But despite the Thai name, the menu is resolutely Japanese, featuring dishes like chirashi sushi (rice topped with various sashimi, B350) and pork curry rice (B120). In a touch of performance art, the sashimi is delivered to patrons via a vendor’s tricycle pedalled around the shop. Closed on Mondays.

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dining

Bacco — Italian. $$$ This relaxed, slightly rustic eatery packs in the diners nightly, thanks to its extensive menu of authentic regional specialities. 35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-6624538. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am3pm, 5:30pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30ammidnight. ZC6

L’Appart — French. $$$-$$$$ Imagine a grand Parisian apartment, which means parquet floors, rich burgundy wallpaper and lots of marble. The food is French cuisine with Thai touches. There’s also a full bar but a particular focus on Champagne cocktails. 32/F Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sois 13 and 15), 02-1269999. Open daily 5pm-midnight. www.sofitel. com ZB2

Pick Bo.Lan — Thai. $$$$ Chefs Bo and

Pick The Local — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef and

Upper Sukhumvit Neighborhood Eats Top street eats in Thonglor

Bamee ped

Bamee ped (บะหมี่เป็ด)

noodles with grilled duck, B55 The crispy skin on this roast duck is delectable and the noodles delicious—and it all comes at a pretty amazing price. Look for the red and white awning with the ducks hanging in the glass out front about 200m from the top of the soi on the left hand side. Mandarin, 729/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-391-4062. Open daily 9.30am-4pm

Khao niow moon (ข้าวเหนียวมูน)

sticky rice with coconut milk and mango, B90 A few steps from BTS Thong Lo, you can’t miss the display of mangoes taking up half the sidewalk. The moist sticky rice looks like a really big portion, but that’s because they sneak the mango seed underneath. Still, this remains one of our favorites. Mae Varee, 1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02392-4804. Open 24/7, khao niow only available 5am-11pm. www.maevaree.com

Khao mun kai Singapore (ข้าวมันไก่สิงคโปร์)

Hainanese steamed chicken with rice, B65 With its fatty rice and powerful sauces, we think this version of the simple steamed chicken dish which originated in Singapore beats most other options hands down. Boon Tong Kiat, 440/5 in front of Thonglor Soi 16, 02-390-2508. Open daily 10am-10pm

Ma du zi Restaurant by Yuyai — Japanese. $$$$ With a stint at a Joel Robuchon restaurant in Tokyo, Japanese Chef Yuya Okuda’s food is recognizably French, only with very light, very subtle exotic touches. Maduzi Hotel, 9/1 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-615-6400. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm. ZD3 ROSAbieng — Thai. $-$$ This two-story wooden house-turned-restaurant is a great place for those seeking an introduction to Thai food, thanks to its broad menu of properly executed dishes. 3 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-253-5868. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Sat 11am-11pm. ZB1

Pick Seafood Bar — Seafood. $$$ Owned by an oyster importer, this restaurant features 20 types of oysters and a range of perfectly grilled fish dishes cooked with a modern American approach. Somerset Lake Place, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02663-8863, Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun noon-3pm, 6-10pm. BTS Asok. ZD3

Dylan offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a charming house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes to reflect the seasons. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962. Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pmmidnight. ZD5

Pick ISao — Japanese. $$$-$$$$ Despite the standard izakaya facade, Isao offers something different—Japanese cuisine with distinctly American twists, thanks to the chef’s apprenticeship at the Green Tea sushi bar in Chicago. 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645/6. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, SatSun 11am-10pm. ZC4 Indus — Indian. $$$ An ambient spot with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual north Indian favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. ZE5 Near Equal — Thai. $$-$$$ A new location for a long-term favorite in a charming house down a lovely leafy street. Upstairs the wood floors and antique pieces make for a delightful spot to enjoy well-balanced Thai dishes; then head downstairs to browse the selection of Thai furniture and handicrafts on sale. 22/2 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02258-1565. ZC5

co-owner Can Markawat keeps the focus on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find traditional recipes. They’re all served in a beautiful hundred-year-old house. There are cooking lessons every Wednesday, too. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm

NEW Quince — International. $$$ Set in a charming and airy space, Quince’s country-classic theme goes for a casual and rustic ambiance that’s part industrial part Spanish villa. The kitchen’s focus is all about sustainability, ethical eating and local produce with impressive, down to earth home cooking and a ‘market’ menu that changes frequently depending on what’s available. Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478. Open daily 6-10pm. www. quincebangkok.com ZC5

THONGLOR/EKKAMAI 4 Garcons — French. $$$ Cooked by a Thai doctor, this classic French fare is served in a warm and elegant atmosphere. 1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-713-9547. Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm. ZB6 Bonjour — French. $$$$ Fine French dishes served in a bourgeois villa that boasts velvet lounge chairs and a small tropical garden. 1217/2 Sukhumvit Soi 59, 02-714-2112. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-1am. ZC6 Harvey — American, International. $$$$ A very popular spot with the town’s movers and shakers, the food encompasses modern interpretations of American, French and Italian cuisine. 129 Thonglor Soi 9, 02-712-9911. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-11pm. ZB6

near equal

Ruen Mallika — Thai. $$$ Set in a small sub-soi off from Sukhumvit 22, the nicely-decorated two-story restaurant is nestled in a peaceful garden. The huge menu of Thai classics utilizes homegrown vegetables and herbs and doesn’t hold back on the chili. Soi Sainamthip 3, Sukhumvit Soi 22, open daily 11am-11pm. www. ruenmallika.com Smith —International. $$$$ Set in a former furniture warehouse it’s decked out in an elegant industrial theme, with walls lined with butcher’s tools. Chef Peter Pitakwong’s menu focuses on two things: locally-sourced ingredients and nose-to-tail cooking, a philosophy that utilizes every part of the animal. 1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-261-0515. Open TueSun 6pm-midnight. ZC5

Hazara —Indian. $$$$ Part of The Face’s elegant compound that also includes a Thai restaurant, bar, spa and bakery. The Northern Indian food is excellent and the decor is a stunning mix of hardwood carpentry and exotic crafts. 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-713-6049. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm. ZB6 Khun Churn — Thai/Vegetarian. $-$$ This family-run eatery, tucked away in the relatively quiet Bangkok Mediplex, has a classy-yet-casual atmosphere and serves up down-to-earth yet delicious meat-free Thai meals. G/F, Bangkok Mediplex Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 42, 02-713-6599. Open daily 10am-8pm. ZD7 Khun Kling pak sod — Thai. $$ Another single-room family run eatery they serve up unapologetically fiery and authentic Southern Thai cuisine. Thonglor Soi 5, 02-185-3977. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-9:30pm. ZC6

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dining

Pick Phuket town — Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional Southernstyle dishes like kanom chine namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that has plenty of SinoPortuguese touches. Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm. ZC6

Soul Food Mahanakorn — Thai. $$-$$$ Soul Food dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails, as well as a brief menu of well-executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect on the hip crowd and the place is packed most nights. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-midnight. ZC6

Pick Xuan mai — Vietnamese. $$$ Probably the best Vietnamese restaurant in Bangkok, this is where former beauty queen-then-FBI agent chef Meyung Robson sources the best ingredients, often direct from Vietnam, and cooks them perfectly from traditional recipes. Try the bahn mo thit (Vietnamese sandwich) and cha ca Hanoi (grilled cat fish). 351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-185-2619. Open TueSun 11am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 11:30ammidnight; Sun 11:30am-10pm. ZA6

NEW >

Asia Bar + Kitchen

Asia Bar+Kitchen aims to be a veritable melting pot of Asian cuisines—from Southeast and East Asia to the Indian sub-continent, served up in a natural-meets-industrial space that’s dominated by black walls, high ceilings and rustic floorboards. Energetic kitchen by day and lively bar by night, the owners aim to keep things authentic, which means Malaysian, Singaporean, Hong Kong, Indian and Indonesian dishes that aren’t toned down or adapted to the Thai palate. Try the Malay penang lorbak (pork wrapped in tofu skin and served with homemade sauce, B130) Hong Kong wonton noodle soup (B150) and Indian roti (plain roti prata served with dhal beans and chicken curry, B150) washed down with beers from all over Asia. There are also Thai classics like pad Thai and mango sticky rice (B70), too. G/F, Holiday Inn Express, Rama 1 Rd., Pathumwan, 02-2162288. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 11am-1am. YM15

xuan mai

Pick Water Library — International. $$$$ A restaurant that serves a maximum of ten diners per night, with a 12-course set menu using the very best ingredients that starts at 7.30pm on the dot prepared in front of you by an army of chefs. It’s very sophisticated, very sexy and yes, it’s expensive, but also very memorable. Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, 02-7149292/-3. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am. ZB6

Riverside the deck — Thai/International. $$$ Book in advance for one of the best spots, out on the second floor terrace, and enjoy the amazing view of Wat Arun across the river. The wellexecuted menu covers Thai and European dishes. 36-38 Soi Pratu Nokyung, Maharat Rd., 02-221-9158. Open Mon-Thu 7am-10pm, Fri-Sun 7am-11pm. WQ23 Supatra Riverside — Thai. $$$$ Situated on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River, the view of the Grand Palace from the terrace of this Thai house is amazing. There are regular cultural performances and a range of classic Thai dishes. Free boat transfer from Maharaj Pier. 266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arunamarin Rd., 02-411-0305. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm. ZP26 october 2012 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 23

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HEALTH + WELLNESS bangkok Yunomori Onsen & Spa

SPA

While Thailand is justifiably famous for its distinctive style of tension-relieving massage, the capital just welcomed a veryJapanese form of stress release. Bangkok’s first authentic onsen (hot spring bath house) is the real deal, with water sourced from a hot spring in Ranong, Southern Thailand. Novices, be warned, it’s no clothes allowed, though women can keep their towel on until they get in the water. Choose from carbonated, hot, cold or jet-equipped baths, with rates starting from B450 for all-day onsen, and B350 for Thai massage. Until the end of October enjoy onsen with massage at B690 and onsen with aroma therapy at yunomori onsen

Apex Medi Spa — Renowned beauty clinic APEX Profound Beauty has gone upscale with this total rejuvenating retreat set in Thong Lor. The spa features in-patient rooms, treatment suites, a restaurant and swimming pool. Programs range from three-hour spa treatments to seven-day weight-loss packages. 208/1-3, Thonglor Soi 8, 02-713-8331-2. Open daily 8:30am-8:30pm. ZC6 I.SAWAN — With its Tony Chi design and its classy residential cottages and treatment bungalows, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a fitness club, tennis and squash courts and a 25-meter pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com YN18 DEVERANA Spa — The impressive white lobby has an almost heavenly quality while the 14 individual spa rooms are little sanctuaries to enjoy a range of treatments from milk baths to body scrubs. Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama IV Rd., 02-636-3596. BTS Sala Daeng/MRT Silom. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.deveranaspa.com XF10 Le Spa with L’Occitane — Thailand’s first Le Spa with L’Occitane boasts a contemporary Thai style combined with an elegant French touch. Treatments, include the Golden Siamese Massage or Four Teas Ceremony. 9/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. between Soi 13-15, 02-126-9999. BTS Nana. ZB2

LET’S RELAX — With branches around Thailand, and a wide variety of packages and trained masseuses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-662-6935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight. More branches: www.letsrelaxspa.com ZB3 ELEMIS SPA — The Elemis Spa is the first in SE Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the ancient Arabian sauna in the Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am-10pm. www. stregis.com/bangkok YN18 THE ORIENTAL SPA — As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.mandarinoriental.com/ bangkok/spa XJ11 S MEDICAL SPA — Founded by a renowned local anti-aging physician, this award-winning spa creates beauty from within, with a selection of integrated wellness programs. 2/2 Bhakdi Bldg., Wireless Rd., 02-253-1010. BTS Ploenchit. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.smedspa.com YL20 SPA BOTANICA — Surrounded by lush gardens, Spa Botanica is an urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best massage options. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd, 02-2344-8900. Open daily 9am-10pm. www. sukhothai.com XG13 PaNPURI ORGANIC SPA — Hidden behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of this luxury spa. Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1199. Open daily 10-8pm. www.panpuri.com IM18

B1,090. A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-259-

5778. Open daily 10:30am-12am. THANN SANCTUARY SPA — Treatments using their world-class spa products made locally, within a tranquil space bathed in soothing lights. 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.thann. info YM18

AESTHETIC CLINICS APEX SKIN CENTER — If you’re trying to solve some skin issues, check out this well established and popular skin center for state-of-the-art treatments from Botox to micro-dermabrasion. 3/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-644-8613/-4. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am-9pm. More branches: www.apexskincenter.com ZC4 ASTER SPRING — This international chain of skin care and health spas, combines German techniques and products to provide effective facial and body treatments. The philosophy here is nofrills and no-nonsense, just good skin products that offer real results. L/F, Gaysorn, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-656-1421/2. BTS Chidlom. YN18 PUTTHARAKSA — From non-invasive face lifts to the derma roller regeneration treatment, their aesthetic care is all about helping your body heal itself. If you can’t trust it to do it alone, get further support through their anti-aging treatments. 1535 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-6336. BTS Phrakhanong. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-9pm, Sun noon- 6pm. www.puttharaksaclinic.com ROMRAWIN — The popular beauty clinic has now expanded to over 20 branches in Bangkok alone. They cover everything from body treatments and weight-loss programs, to acne cures and more, all using state-of-the-art equipment. 4/F, Chidlom Tower, 22 Soi Somkid, Ploenchit Rd., 02-6557625, 02-655-7818. Open daily 10am-9pm. More branches: www.romrawin.com YN19

le spa with l’occitane

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HEALTH + WELLNESS BANGKOK

Where Special | Wellness

Rejuvenate your mind, body and soul Spa@Tonson provides a Unique & Authentic Massage that is designed to nourish your mind and body—through an array of massage techniques, applied by trained professionals, that will leave you feeling relaxed and

revitalized. Double your sensation with our Signature 4-Hands Aromatherapy massage. A must try for true spa lovers.

Call for special promotion: 02-658-7980 / 081-954-4366. Location: Level 5 Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Bangkok. www.spatonson.com

The Spa by MSpa at the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok The Spa by MSpa at the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok offers convenient

respite for those seeking an exceptional 5 star sanctuary. Memorable spa

experiences are delivered through a private paradise featuring state-of-the-art facilities. The spa interior focuses on the rich beauty of Thailand’s traditional

Lanna style, accented by a touch of classic Moroccan elegance, and exuding a truly exotic ambience surrounded by lush hand-painted silk and enhanced by fragrant scents of traditional Asian herbs.

The Spa by MSpa at the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok, 02-250-1000, ms_fsbk@minornet.com

S Medical Spa S Medical Spa is a complete Rejuvenation center providing a one-stopservice for Optimizing your Health, Appearance and Well-being with a

combination of Spa Therapies and Medical Programs. Services rely on our unique philosophy of “Rejuvenation through Integrated Health Care” in the luxury facilities “Where pleasure can Heal”.

S Medical Spa please call 02-253-1010 Call Center: 086-972-4540 www.smedspa.com, info@smedspa.com

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ShopS+Services BANGKOK

Support Foundation Store

Support Foundation Store at the Grand Palace

Those interested in the history of Thai silk shouldn’t pass up a visit to the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles, located at the Grand Palace (Entry B150). Opened this year, the museum shows how HM Queen Sirikit has championed traditional Thai costumes and put Thai silk on the world fashion map. Don’t forget to head down to the first floor for the Support Foundation Shop, which sells a variety of affordable products, from bags and home décor items to scarves and raw materials, all crafted from locally-made silk and cotton textiles. These are exclusively available at just a few Support Foundation stores nationwide, and all profits help support the lives of rural craftsmen. 1/F, Rasadakornpipat Building, The Grand Palace, Na Phralan Rd., 02-225-9421/-3. Open daily 9am-4:30pm.

Downtown Amarin Plaza — The mall’s Greco-Roman façade actually hides some unexpected gems. ID1 on the first floor holds an interesting collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs. 496-502 Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-4704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com YM18

amarin plaza

Central Chidlom — The closest thing Bangkok has to Harrods, Central Chidlom first opened in 1973 and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. It’s packed with leading brands, like Bottega Venetta, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the impressive Food Hall on the ground floor and the views from the international food court, up on the seventh. 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th YM19

CentralWorld — Southeast Asia’s largest lifestyle shopping complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000-sq-meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for top brands like Topshop, Gap and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites like Singha Life and Disaya. Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www. centralworld.co.th YM18

Platinum Fashion Mall — Platinum is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashionrelated from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even a single item is very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. www.platinumfashionmall. com YK18

Erawan Bangkok — This mini-mall might look petite, but its three floors offer some high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including Yohji Yamamoto, Dior Homme and Lanvin. 494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com YM18

Siam Paragon — With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like H&M and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World, Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a cinema. As well as lots of restaurants, there’s also a food court in the basement. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamparagon.co.th YM17

Gaysorn — Thailand’s leading high-end mall is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Celine) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1149. BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com YM18 MBK Center — Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and at bargain prices. As a result,the chaotic MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good. Still it’s fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the 6th floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www. mbk-center.co.th YM16

Siam Discovery Center — The sister mall of Siam Center just celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussaud’s wax museum. It also remains the place to come for Thai furniture brands. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamdiscoverycenter.co.th YM16

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ShopS+Services Sukhumvit

Elsewhere

The Emporium — Set in the heart of the city’s upscale residential area (home to Bangkok’s largest Japanese community), The Emporium offers luxury shopping without the crowds, thanks to its tenant portfolio, which includes brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Prada, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal, Thann and Jim Thompson. There are also lots of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative Design Center. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www. emporiumthailand.com ZC4

Asiatique — This new shopping center is the first to sit on the banks of the Chao Phraya River and is themed according to the city’s architecture of old. Divided into several sections, ranging from the panoramic waterfront to a 100-year old refurbished sawmill, it includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashions and intriguing souvenirs, plus offers a variety of eateries, beer gardens and wine bars. The gigantic venue is also home to the Joe Louis puppet theater and the transgender extravaganza Calypso Bangkok. You can catch the free ferry from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin). 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488.

Terminal 21 — One of Bangkok’s newest shopping complexes boasts an airport terminalcum-international destinations theme. As you travel through the nine floors you can stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the higher floors offer a host of intriguing boutiques by Thai designers. There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21. co.th ZB3

terminal 21

MARKETS Chatuchak Market — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is one of the world’s largest weekend markets. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections, roughly categorized by the products on offer. You can literally spend the weekend here amid the rabbit warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 10-24 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home-decor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www. chatuchak.org

Crystal Design Center — Designer chairs, platinum faucets, leather sofas and a lot more home décor products are the main draw for CDC Phase 1, while Phase 2 is filled with restaurants and bars, cute cafés, fashion boutiques and home décor stores. It’s not the easiest place to get to, though: we recommend a taxi from MRT Lad Phrao. 1420/1 Praditmanutham Rd., Klongchan, 02-101-5999. www.crystaldesigncenter.com OP Place — Situated in a beautiful neoclassicalstyle building close to the river, this gorgeous luxury mall oozes charm from the sweeping wooden staircase to the antique lift. The plushly-carpeted halls are home to a host of high-end boutiques offering unique and rare antiques and artifacts from across Southeast Asia, handcrafted jewelry, bespoke tailors and fine art. The Ashwood Gallery that occupies the whole third floor is home to some particularly striking pieces. There’s also a free shuttle service to the neighboring OP Garden, which houses an art gallery, restaurants and high-end boutiques. 30/1 Soi 38, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-266-0186. Open daily 10:30am-7pm. XJ11 River City — Right next door to the Sri Phraya pier is River City, a mall and auction house with a real focus on Asian arts and antiques. Highlights include Friday Antiques (4/F), Ashwood Gallery (4/F) and The Old Maps and Prints (4/F). The main departure point for many of the river cruises it also contains numerous restaurants and cafes. Captain Bush Lane. Open daily 10am10pm. 02-237-0077. www.therivercity.com

Digital Gateway

Shopping Walk >

Siam

While the Siam area is best known for its long line of gleaming malls, selling the leading brand names, it also has an edgier side. Just across the street from the luxe fashion boutiques of Siam Paragon lies Siam Square, a small block of streets that’s been a favorite hangout for hordes of Bangkok university students since it opened in the 1960s. Slowly undertaking a gentrification, it’s still home to funky, cutting-edge boutiques, cute cafes and hip music spots. Siam Square Sois 2, 3 and 4, in the shadow of Digital Gateway IT mall, are a center for teen fashion, thanks to a mix of designers like Paa*, Mosstories, Mango Mojito and Poem. Music spots like old favorites DJ Siam and Do Re Me are often packed with teenagers there to buy the latest albums and rare items. The newest zone called Siam Vintage (opposite Chula Book Center) sees a collection of fresh local and inter designs from various young enterpreneurs like Onion and ZM Bangkok. BTS Siam

Talat Rod Fai — This alfresco night bazaar has quickly become the new hot spot for vintage finds, thanks to the mix of retro fashion, décor and toys for sale and because of the laid-back ambience at the ad hoc bars and cafés. Kamphaeng Phet Rd. MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun, 4pm-1am

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nightlife BANGKOK Levels

Every month there seems to be another new bar or club opening up on the popular nightlife strip of Sukhumvit Soi 11. The latest, Levels, looks to provide a high-end clubbing experience to challenge nearby rivals Bed Supperclub and Q Bar. Perched on the 6/F of the Aloft Hotel and accessible only by a pair of elevators, the cavernous venue is split into four zones: an open-air terrace, a lounge, a VIP section upstairs and the club proper. The high-ceilinged main room, or lounge, is decked out with a huge LED chandelier above a circular bar and aims for a rather swanky audiovisual clubbing experience, thanks to state-of-the-art lighting and regular international DJ sets. Levels, 6/F, Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-3083246. Open daily 9pm-3am. www. levelsclub.com ZA1

Downtown

Riverside

Bed Supperclub — Bangkok’s leading club, with a space-age interior, is divided into two sides—the restaurant, which offers creative food and cutting-edge performances; and the club, where beautiful people come to dance. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. Open daily 7pm-2am. www.bedsupperclub.com ZA1

Viva & Aviv — Fitting for its riverside location, this venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nauticallyinspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive, well-made cocktails and pub grub. River City Complex, 23 Yota Rd., 02639-6305. Open daily 11am-midnight. www. vivaaviv.com

Beervault — This simple and sleek bar is a mecca for imported brews, boasting 48 bottled beers from 12 different countries and six draught beers. Four Points by Sheraton Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 15, 02-309-3113. Open daily 11-1am. ZB2 The Speakeasy — The two-story space takes you back to the roaring 1920s with a décor featuring dark wood and leather. A balcony on level 24 lets you take in 180-degree views of Bangkok’s central district, or head to the alfresco rooftop. 24-25/F, Hotel Muse Bangkok, 55/555 Langsuan Rd., 02-6304000. Open daily 6pm-1am. YN19 Hyde & Seek — Elevated pub grub, one of Bangkok’s best cocktail menus and a décor that conjures up both Victorian drawing room style and NYC sophistication. Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-168-5152-3. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. YM21 The St Regis Bar — A New York Mad Men vibe, impressive views, a daily champagne sabrage and a Thai take on the bloody mary are the highlights. 12/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily noon-1am. www. stregis.com YN18

ThongLor/Ekkamai Fat Gut’z Saloon — Sitting on the corner of a small lifestyle mall, this hole-in-the-wall reminds us of a New Orleans speakeasy. A blues-fuelled band and fish n’ chips are the house specials. 1/F, Grass Thonglor, 264 Thonglor Soi 12, 02-714-9832. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZB6 Iron Fairies — Like no other bar in Bangkok, it actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies. A great live band and powerful cocktails make this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-8875. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. ZB6 Mellow — Another popular spot for dining and drinking, Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, affluent locals. They’re attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and delicious cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am. ZA6

Nightlife neighborhood >

Seenspace

This petite community mall in Thonglor Soi 13 is a relatively quiet shopping and eating spot by day; yet at night, it’s currently one of the hottest hangouts for young Bangkokians thanks to its collection of bars and clubs spread around a shared courtyard. Headlining the neighborhood is Clouds (02-185-2365) with its futuristic décor and undulating ceiling. Next door Brew Beers and Ciders (02-1852866), is a great spot for ale lovers with a long list of regularly changing imported beers. The latest addition is Fat’r Gut’z (02-185-2373), with a steampunk décor that mixes black leather, rusty iron and a giant aquarium while serving some great fish n’ chips. The best thing: wherever you’re sat, you can order from the drinks and food menus of the other venues. Seenspace, Thong Lor Soi 13, Sukhumvit 55. BTS Thong Lo. ZB6

28 W H E R E t h a i land I october 2012

NIGHTLIFE_Oct_2012_1_NEW.indd 28

9/20/12 5:11 PM

bangkok Navigate

overview

Lat Phrao ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

Phahon Yothin ¾ËÅâÂ¸Ô¹

ChatuchakPark ÊÇ¹¨µØ¨Ñ¡Ã

Chao Phraya áÁ‹¹้Óà¨ŒÒ¾ÃÐÂÒ

Bang Sue ºÒ§«×่Í

Ratchadapisek ÃÑª´ÒÀÔàÉ¡

Mo Chit ËÁÍªÔµ

2 Kamphaeng Phet ¡Óá¾§à¾ªÃ

Sutthisan ÊØ·¸ÔÊÒÃ

Saphan Khwai ÊÐ¾Ò¹¤ÇÒÂ

Huai Khwang ËÑÇÂ¢ÇÒ§

Ari ÍÒÃÕÂ

Thailand Cultural Center ÈÙ¹Â ÇÑ²¹¸ÃÃÁáË‹§»ÃÐà·Èä·Â

Sanam Pao Ê¹ÒÁà»‡Ò

Phra Athit ·‹ÒàÃ×Í¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

Victory Monument Í¹ØàÊÒÇÃÕÂ

Phaya Thai ¾ÞÒä·

Wang Lang ·‹ÒàÃ×Í ÇÑ§ËÅÑ§

Yaowarat Rd.

Tha Tien ·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹ÒàµÕÂ¹

Hua Lamphong ËÑÇÅÓâ¾§

Makkasan ÁÑ¡¡ÐÊÑ¹

Sukhumvit ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

Siam ÊÂÒÁ

Chit Lom ªÔ´ÅÁ

Phloen Chit à¾ÅÔ¹¨Ôµ

Ratchadamri ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

Nana ¹Ò¹Ò

Sam Yan ÊÒÁÂ‹Ò¹

Silom ÊÕÅÁ

Phetchaburi à¾ªÃºØÃÕ Phrom Phong ¾ÃŒÍÁ¾§É

Ramkhamhaeng ÃÒÁ¤ÓáË§

Thong Lo ·Í§ËÅ‹Í Ekkamai àÍ¡ÁÑÂ Phra Khanong ¾ÃÐâ¢¹§

Asok ÍâÈ¡

!2 8

!5!6

National Stadium Ê¹ÒÁ¡ÕÌÒáË‹§ªÒµÔ

Ratchaprarop ÃÒª»ÃÒÃ¶

Ratchathewi ÃÒªà·ÇÕ

Maharaj ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÁËÒÃÒª

To Suvarnabhumi Airport

Phaya Thai ¾ÞÒä·

Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒª´Óà¹Ô¹¡ÅÒ§

!8 Phra Ram 9 ¾ÃÐÃÒÁ 9

Ratchavithi Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒªÇÔ¶Õ

Queen Sirikit National Conv. Centre ÈÙ¹Â »ÃÐªØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์ Lumphini ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

On Nut Í‹Í¹¹Øª Bang Chak ºÒ§¨Ò¡

Khlong Toei ¤ÅÍ§àµÂ

Sala Daeng ÈÒÅÒá´§

Ratchawong ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÃÒªÇ§¤

Punnawithi »Ø³³ÇÔ¶Õ

Udom Suk ÍØ´ÁÊØ¢

Si Phraya ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÕ¾ÃÐÂÒ

Chong Nonsi ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ

Oriental ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕÂ¹àµÅ Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã

Krung Thon Buri ¡ÃØ§¸¹ºØÃÕ

Saphan Taksin ÊÐ¾Ò¹µÒ¡ÊÔ¹

Bang Na ºÒ§¹Ò

Surasak ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Chao Phraya áÁ‹¹้Óà¨ŒÒ¾ÃÐÂÒ

Bangkok Overview Key

Rama III Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ 3

Sukhumvit Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

To Wongwian Yai Station

1 Asiatique

!0 Victory Monument

Main road

2 Chatuchak Market

!1 Yaowarat (China Town)

BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

3 Vimanmek Mansion

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumpini Park

MRT

5 Khaosan Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Center

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

!5 Siam Paragon Shopping Center

River/Klong (canal)

7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

!6 CentralWorld and Zen

Pier

8 Wat Po

!7 Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

9 Wat Arun

!8 Thailand Cultural Center

Bearing áºÃÔ่§

Find out the latest news on Thailand at Facebook.com/WhereThailand | Instagram @where_thailand

october 2012 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 29

Navigate listing_Oct_12_NEW.indd 29

9/24/12 5:00 PM

Navigate GET MOVING in the heart of the Old Town, stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physicallychallenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal (klong) water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are between B9 and B19, depending on distance and are purchased on board.

These fast, frequent and cheap ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and

used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only one canal still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Ban Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount

Shopping

1. Terminal 21 B3 2. The Emporium C4

Art & Attractions

1. Kamthieng House B3 2. Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC) C4

Sukhumvit

Queen Sirikit National Convention Center ÈÙ¹Â »ÃÐªØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Benchakitti Park ÊÇ¹ÊÒ¸ÒÃ³àºÞ¨¡ÔµµÔ

13 7

4 Parklane ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ¾ÒÃ ¤àÅ¹

·Í§ËÅ‹Í

8 G

The Emporium ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ

Major Cineplex Sukhumvit

Ekkamai àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

TO B

12 Ekkamai Bus Terminal Ê¶Ò¹Õ¢¹Ê‹§àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

EARIN G

STATIO

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

Arena 10

Soi Sukhumvit 40 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 40

ÊÇ¹ÊÒ¸ÒÃ³Ð àºÞ¨ÊÔÃÔ

Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 36

Benchasiri Park

Thong Lo

Rain Hill ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ àÃ¹ÎÔÅ

Soi Sukhumvit 26 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 26

Soi Sukhumvit 16 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 16

Soi Sukhumvit 22 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 22

Soi Sukhumvit 20 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 20

¾ÃŒÍÁ¾§É

Sukhumvit 51

Phrom Phong

ÍâÈ¡

Asok

Soi Sukhumvit 24 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 24

Soi Sukhumvit 14 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 14

Soi Sukhumvit 12 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 12

Times Square ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ä·Á Êá¤ÇÃ

Soi Sukhumvit 10 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 10

ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

F 8

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

Terminal 21 ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à·ÍÁÔ¹ÍÅ 21

Seen Space

Soi Sukhumvit 55 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 55

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

Soi 53

Prommit Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅ¾ÃŒÍÁÁÔµÃ

J Avenue ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à¨ ÍÐàÇ¹ÔÇ

Soi Sukhumvit 38 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 38

ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ âÃºÔ¹ÊÑ¹

Soi Sukhumvit 49 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 49

1 Robinson

C Ë

3 6

Sukhumvit7

Samitivej Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅÊÁÔµÔàÇª

Soi Sukhumvit 39 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 39

6 15

Soi Sukhumvit 4 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 4

1. Apex Medi Spa C6 2. Apex Skin Center C4 3. Dermaster A7 4. Mulberry Spa B3 5. Oasis Spa C5 6. Le Spa B2

Soi Sukhumvit 31 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 31

Soi Sukhumvit 23 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 23

Soi Sukhumvit 19 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 19

«ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 11

Soi Sukhumvit 15 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 15

Soi Sukhumvit 13 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 13 2

5, 12

¹Ò¹Ò

Health & Wellness

Nana TO MO CHIT STATION

TO BANG SUE STATION

1. BeerVault B2 2. Bed Supperclub A1 3. Clouds B6 4. Fat Gutz B6 5. Levels B1 6. Iron Fairies B6 7. Manhattan Bar B1 8. Mellow A6 9. Q Bar A1 10. Wine Republic B5 11. WTF C5 12. W XYZ A1 13. Zaks A1

Soi 11

Soi Sukhumvit 3 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 3

Bumrungrad Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅ ºÓÃØ§ÃÒÉ®Ã

Nightlife

1. 11 Gallery B1 2. 4 Garcons B6 3. Above 11 A1 4. Bacco C6 5. Bo.Lan D5 6. Bonjour C6 7. Curries and More C6 8. Fuzio/The Garret B7 9. Harvey B6 10. Indus E5 11. Isao C4 12. Khun Churn D7 13. Khua Kling Paksod C6 14. Kuppa D3 15. L’Appart B2 16. Let Them Eat Cake D3 17. Little Beast B5 18. Ma du Zi Restaurant by Yuyai D3 19. Near Equal C5 20. Phuket Town C6 21. Quince C5 22. Rosabieng B1 23. Seafood Bar D3 24. Smith C5 25. Soul Food Mahanakorn C6 26. Surface B6 27. Thai Lao Yeh C5 28. Water Library B6 29. Xuan Mai A6

EXPRESS RIVER Boats—

CANAL BOATS—While Bangkok

Dining

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

30 W H E R E thailand I october 2012 15

TO MO CHIT STATION

18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ

Ratchathewi

ÃÒªà·ÇÕ Navigate listing_Oct_12_NEW.indd 30

Pantip Plaza ¾Ñ¹·Ô¾Â ¾ÅÒ«‹Ò

Platinum Mall á¾ÅµµÔ¹ÑÁ ÁÍÅÅ

9/24/12 5:00 PM

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÇ§È

AIRPORT LINk—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (connecting to the MRT, but it’s a long walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 15 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 30 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan City Terminal. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B90 for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.

Navigate 7

Chamchuri Square ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ

11 Lumpini Park ÊÇ¹ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

TO NATIONAL STADIUM STATION

Si Lom ÊÕÅÁ

Chulalongkorn Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅ¨Ø¿ÒÅ§¡Ã³

12 ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 4

Sala Daeng

Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§

ÈÒÅÒá´§

Silom Soi 2

Silom Complex Thaniya Plaza ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ

Soi Convent «ÍÂ¤Í¹áÇ¹µ 4

Chong Nonsi ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ

Ekkamai àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

EARIN G

Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์

TO B

Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ 3

Pan Rd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹

STATIO

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42 21

x Dining

Chit

¨Ôµ

OP Place

1. Celadon G13 2. D’Sens F10 3. Dine in the Dark H13 4. Eat Me G11 5. Le Normandie J11 6. Nahm,8Glow G13 7. Niu’s I10 Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃØ³ 8. Ruen Urai G8 9. Scarlett H10 10. Somtum Der F11 Memorial Bridge Pier 11. Taling ·‹ÒPling àÃ×ÍÊÐ¾Ò¹¾Ø·I11 ¸

1. OP Place J9

Soi Ruam Rudi «ÍÂ Ã‹ÇÁÄ´Õ

Oriental Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕÂ¹àµÅ

Art & Attractions 1

ÊÐ¾Ò¹µÒ¡ÊÔ¹

Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã TO WONGWIAN YAI STATION

Shopping TO BEARING STATION

Saphan Taksin

1. Body Tune G10 2. Devarana Spa F10 3. Divana Virtue Spa I12 Ratchawong Pier Q ÃÒªÇ§¤ 4.·‹ÒHealth Land G13 5. So SPA F12 6. Spa Botanica G13 7. The Oriental Spa J11

Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡ÃØ§

Health & Wellness

St. Louis Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅà«¹µ ËÅØÂÊ

Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢

City Viva

ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Soi Silom 1 9 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 1 5 I

Surasak

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·ÃãµŒ

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÇ§È

¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

Si Lom Rd.

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

Silom Soi 4

TO BANG SUE STATION

Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·ÃàË¹×Í

Terminal Í¡ÁÑÂ

silom14

Lumphini

Rama 4 Rd. TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

1. Gossip Gallery I10 2. H Gallery H11 India Emporium 3. Kathmandu Photo Gallery I11 ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ Â àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ 4. Serindia GalleryÍÔ¹à´ÕJ11 5. Silom Galleria I10

comes with an excellent guide booklet to some of the 24 25 leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. Tha Phrachan Pier

Tha Tien Pier ·‹ÒàµÕÂ¹

·‹Ò¾ÃÐ¨Ñ¹·Ã Intercity BUSES—There are three main

2 2

Wat Po ÇÑ´â¾¸Ô์

stations for buses out of town. The Northern Bus Terminal or Mo Chit (02-936-2841/-3) is located a taxi ride away from Mo Chit BTS/Kamphaeng 1 Phet MRT and services Northern and Northeastern Thailand as well as some Eastern destinations. The 9 1 1 Eastern Bus Terminal (02-391-2504) is located right Wat Phra Kaeo ¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ by BTS Ekkamai and hasÇÑ´buses departing to Pattaya, Rayong, Koh Samed and Trat. Finally, the Southern Bus Terminal or Sai Tai (02-894-6122) is located across the river at Thonburi on Boromratchachonnanee Road and services Western (Kanchanaburi) and Wat Rajapardit ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃÐ´ÔÉ° Southern Thailand, including the islands of Phuket and Samui.

BUSES—The bus is a popular (if slow) budgetWat Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·ÑÈ¹

travel choice in Bangkok. The Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (BMTA) operates an extensive number of routes throughout Bangkok and its nearby provinces. There are two types of buses: non-air-con and aircon. Fares for non-air-con buses are B6.5-7.5 while The Old Siam Plaza fares for air-conditioned buses are B10-23, dependËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ ing on the distance. Fares are paid to on-board staff, China World ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒä«¹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´ B urap a Rd who rarely speak English. Visit www.bmta.co.th for a . ¶¹¹ ºÙÃ¾Ò list of routes and schedules.

Essential Numbers 27

Emergency Services (Fire Brigade, Police) 191

Wang Lang Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇÑ§ËÅÑ§

Airport Rail Link 02-308-5600. 6 http://airportraillink.railway.co.th

Bangkok Metropolitan Administration Hotline 1555 Bangkok Taxi Call Center 1681 / 1661 Bangkok 4 Mass Transit System (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th BTS Tourist Information Center : 02-6173 7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th Phra Athit Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

Bangkok Metro (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th Wat Chana Songkram ÇÑ´ª¹ÐÊ§¤ÃÒÁ

Chao Phraya Express Boat Call Center 02623-6001-3 (daily 6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com Police Station Ê¶Ò¹ÕµÓÃÇ¨

Suvanbhumi International Airport 1722/02132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) – 1672. www.tourismthailand.org Tourist Police 24 hour call center 1155 Democracy Monument Í¹ØÊÒÇÃÕÂ »ÃÐªÒ¸Ô»äµÂ

5 7 2012 I WHER E thailand 31 october

Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò

Wat Saket ÇÑ´ÊÃÐà¡µØ

Navigate listing_Oct_12_NEW.indd 31

9/24/12 5:00 PM

Chamchuri Square ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ

11 Lumpini Park ÊÇ¹ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

TO NATIONAL STADIUM STATION

Si Lom ÊÕÅÁ

Chulalongkorn Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅ¨Ø¿ÒÅ§¡Ã³

12 ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

Navigate

¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 4

Sala Daeng

Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§

ÈÒÅÒá´§

Silom Soi 2

Silom Complex Thaniya Plaza ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ

Si Lom Rd.

Health & Wellness

àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

1. Wat Po Q24

TO B

Art & Attractions

STATIO

Shopping

OP Place

ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Soi Silom 1 9 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 1 5

There are interchange stations at Sukhumvit (MRT) /Asok (BTS) and Silom (MRT)/Sala Daeng (BTS).

Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Fares are B15-B40 for both trains. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special Saphan Taksin one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified ÊÐ¾Ò¹µÒ¡ÊÔ¹ number of trips. For more information, go to www. bts.co.th and www.bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the Central Pier BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems. ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã

Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡ÃØ§

Oriental Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕÂ¹àµÅ

1. Support Foundation Store P25

Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ 3 Pan Rd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹

1. Grand Palace Q25 2. Museum Siam Q23 3. National Gallery Q27 4. National Museum Q27 Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢ 5. Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall S26 6. Royal Barge Museum P27 7. The Queen’s Gallery S27 8. Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) P22 5 9. Wat Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) Q25 7

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

EARIN G

City Viva

The underground, 3or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station St. Louis Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅà«¹µ ËÅØÂÊ on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the 3main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Surasak

1. Supatra Riverside P26 H 2. The Deck Q23

Ekkamai

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·ÃãµŒ

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÇ§È

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

Dining

skytrain/underground—The 4 able and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 Bangkok Skytrain (BTS) stops at Bangkok’s main dis4 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, tricts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivare two main lines: the Silom Line, which runs from ers speak limited English, so do get your destination across the river in Wongwian Yai to National Stadium; written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์ Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before only pay the metered price. heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the Chong Nonsi ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ 9 two lines.

getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo 8 opportunities. However, there is no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on aGprice before getting in. Haggle hard and be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Soi Convent «ÍÂ¤Í¹áÇ¹µ TAXIS—In Bangkok metered taxis are readily avail¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

TUK-TUKs—Tuk-tuks are a noisy Silom but fun way of Soi 4

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Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·ÃàË¹×Í

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25 Tha Phrachan Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃÐ¨Ñ¹·Ã

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India Emporium ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ÍÔ¹à´ÕÂ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ

The Old Siam Plaza ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ China World ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒä«¹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´

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Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

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18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ

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General Police Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅµÓÃÇ¨

Amarin Plaza Erawan Bangkok ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒÍÑÁÃÔ¹·Ã ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒàÍÃÒÇÑ¹

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1. Asia Bar + Kitchen M15 2. Drinking Tea, Eating Rice N21 3. Erawan Tea Room N18 4. Gaggan O19 5. Gianni Ristorante N19 6. Grossi Trattoria M19 7. La Monita Taqueria M21 8. Mandopop N20 9. Medici N19 10. Pomodoro N21 11. Reflexions N21 12. Shintaro N18 13. Sra Bua L17 14. Thompson Bar & Restaurant L15 15. Zense N19 16. Zuma N18

Nightlife

1. Hyde & Seek M21 2. The Speakeasy M21 3. The St Regis Bar N18

Health & Wellness 1. Aster Spring M18 2. Elemis Spa N18 3. i.Sawan N18 4. Panpuri Spa M18 5. Romrawin N19

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

2 3

Ratchadamri

5 9 2

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Sarasin Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒÃÊÔ¹

Dining

Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ

6 MBK ÁÒºØÞ¤ÃÍ§

Soi Tonson «ÍÂ µŒ¹Ê¹

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Siam Soi Lang Suan «ÍÂ ËÅÑ§ÊÇ¹

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6. S Medical Spa L20 7. Thann Sanctuary Spa M18

Shopping

1. Amarin Plaza M18 2. Central Chidlom M19 3. CentralWorld M18 4. Erawan Bangkok M18 5. Gaysorn M18 6. MBK Center M16 7. Pantip Plaza K17 8. Platinum Fashion Mall K18 9. Siam Discovery Center M16 10. Siam Paragon M17

Art & Attractions

1. 100 Tonson Gallery N20 2. Bangkok Art & Cultural Center (BACC) M16 3. Jim Thompson Art Center & House L1 5 4. Siam Ocean World M17 5. Sombat Permpoon Gallery L21 6. White Space Gallery M16

ATMS—ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside of 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money. List of Banks—Banking hours are generally from 8:30am to 3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm. The main banks are: Bankgok Bank (1333, www.bangkokbank.com), Bank of Ayudhya (1572, www.krungsri.com), CIMB Thai (02-626-7777, www.cimbthai.com), Kasikorn Bank (02-888-8888, www.kasikornbank.com), Krungthai Bank (1551, www.ktb.co.th), Siam Commercial Bank (02-777-7777, www.scb.co.th), Standard Chartered Bank (1595, www.standardchartered.co.th), Thanachart Bank (1770, www.thanachartbank.com), TMB Bank (02-299-1111, www.tmbbank.com), United Overseas Bank (02-285-1555, www.uob.co.th). Hospitals—Bumrungrad International, (Sukhumvit Soi 1-3, 02-667-1000, emergency 02667-2999), Bangkok Hospital (Soi Soonvijai, Petchaburi Rd., 02-310-3000), BNH Hospital (Convent Rd., 02-686-2700), Samitivej Sukhumvit (Sukhumvit 49, 02-711-8181), Siriraj SiPH (Phrannok Rd., 1474).

october 2012 I WHER E thailand 33

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Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃØ³

Memorial Bri ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊ

Soi Ruam Rudi «ÍÂ Ã‹ÇÁÄ´Õ

Chit Lom Rd. ¶¹¹ªÔ´ÅÁ

Ratchadamri Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ

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Soi Som Khit «ÍÂÊÁ¤Ô´

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20 Things we LOve about Thailand

!4 1 Visiting the home of secret agent and silk tycoon Jim Thompson (6 Soi Kasemsan 2, 02-216-7368), a complex of gorgeous Thai teak pavilions packed with Asian antiques. 2 Discovering Michelin-Starworthy, traditional Thai dishes at David Thompson’s Nahm (G/F, Metropolitan, 27, South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333).

6 Getting a relaxing four-hand massage at Spa@Tonson (www. spatonson.com).

!1 Getting lost in the maze of alleys

!7 Sitting ringside for a Thai

at Chatuchak Weekend Market (BTS Mo Chit/MRT Kamphaeng Phet).

boxing match at Lumpini Stadium (Rama IV Rd., MRT Lumpini, www. muaythailumpini.com).

7 Enjoying tasty street eats from the numerous stalls to be found in China Town’s Yaowarat Road.

!2 Traversing the famous bridge and

8 Learning how to kite surf on the breezy unspoilt beach at Pranburi, try Air Stylers Kite School (www. airstylers.com).

!3 Drinking in the Dickensian delights

9 Getting up close to a gentle giant

!4 Dining on fresh, catch-of-the-day

with a day visit to the Elephant Nature Foundation (www. elephantnaturefoundation.org) just outside Chiang Mai.

seafood at beachfront restaurants on Arunothai Beach in Chumphon.

drinking in the memories along the River Kwai in Kanchanaburi.

of real-life fairy factory and bar Iron Fairies (394 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 084425-8080).

3 Taking a bicycle trip around the floating markets, lush plantations and crumbling temples of Bang Krajao (Spice Roads, www.spiceroads.com).

4 Riding a long tail boat to Freedom Beach, the wonderfully inaccessible (and peaceful) beach in Phuket. 5 Hunting for antiques along Charoen Krung Road in Bangkok.

!0 Rising early to experience the floral delights and organized chaos of Pak Klong Talad flower market.

!8 Laying down for the cutting-edge performances, alongside Bangkok’s beautiful people at Bed Supperclub (26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. BTS Nana).

!9 Exploring the collection of rare artifacts and antiques belonging to celebrated Thai artist Tawan Duchanee at Baandum Museum (www.thawan-duchanee.com/ baandum) in Chiang Rai.

!5 Getting a glimpse of what Bangkok used to be like with a klong tour around the old canals (klongs) of Nonthaburi from Saphan Taksin Pier.

!6 Island hopping while admiring

@0 Discovering the leading Thai contemporary art collection at the Museum of Contemporary Art or MOCA (02-953-1005/-7, www. mocabangkok.com).

the stunning limestone karsts that dominate the Krabi coastline.

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