Where® Thailand November 2012

Thailand

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no v e m b e r 2 0 12 the complete guide to go 速

速

Street Perspective Walking Tours of Bangkok

PLUS YOUR ULTIMATE GUIDE TO BANGKOK COVER_NEW.indd 1

Cultural Shows Green Isaan Loy kratong

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contents where

®

l THAILAND l NOVEMBER 2012

the guide

Bangkok

17 arts+Culture Where to catch the best cultural shows, plus Bangkok's top galleries and attractions

19 dining A riverside eatery, an exciting new hotel venue and top Thai cooking schools

23 nightlife Shanghai luxe meets Art Deco style at the city's new jazz bar

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24 Health+Wellness Something for the guys this month with a special men-only treatment

Features

26 SHOPS+Services The city goes even more brand crazy with the arrival of three new luxury labels

05 l Best foot Forward Discover temples, food stalls, boutiques and more with our walking tours of Bangkok

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10 l Going Green Head to the border town of Kong Jiam to

29 Maps

find a lush landscape fresh from the rains

Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin

Escapes

also inside 4 Hot dates

12 travel News

12 Managing Editor, Special Projects Nick Measures Editor Top Koaysomboon General Manager James Fuss Managing Editor Grégoire Glachant Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapong

28 Business Traveler An interview with a leading GM plus our regular serviced apartment spotlight

The latest deals, promotions

29 navigate

and events around the Kingdom

34 20 Things We Love

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

Marketing Manager Arunee Wilson Marketing Executive Natta Yantasri Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant

MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

Contributors Marissa Smith Cover by Dechart Sangsawang

Mvp | National Sales Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.

Com

Mvp | Cartography And Circulation General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Morris Comunications Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris Iii President William S. Morris Iv

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/WhereThailand

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

Mvp | Creative Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

Mvp | Technology & Manufacturing Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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hot dates THAILAND NOV 28

Courtesy of tourism Authority of Thailand

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LOY KRATONG When the full moon rises in the 12th month of the traditional Thai lunar calendar, locals head to the nearest stretch of water to pray for good luck and wish their sins and misfortune away, while paying respect to the water goddess Phra Mae Khongka. They do so by setting a candle-lit raft decorated with flowers and incense sticks, known as a kratong, adrift on the water. Traditions vary from region to region but festivities usually include firework displays, beauty pageants and illuminated boat and float processions. Loy Kratong also coincides with the Yi Peng festival in Northern Thailand, which sees locals release a sea of flying lanterns (khom loy) into the night sky. In Bangkok, many head to the bridges along the river to pay their respects but you’ll also find events taking place at the main parks like Lumphini (MRT Lumphini), Benjakitti (MRT Queen Sirikit) and Benjasiri (BTS Phrom Phong).

For more information visit www. loikrathong.net or contact local TAT offices.

NOV 3-30

NOV 25 - DEC 6

NOV 1-18

The highest form of Thai classical theater, the complex choreography and elaborate costumes of khon were traditionally confined to the royal courts.

Usually based on chapters of the Ramakien epic (the Thai version of the Sanskrit epic, Ramayana), productions feature dancers accompanied by a chorus and orchestra. This year the SUPPORT Foundation’s annual khon show, focuses on the episode of Jong Tanon, which depicts the building of a bridge to Lanka, as Phra Ram (Rama) tries to rescue his wife Nang Sida (Sita) from the demon king Totsakan (Ravana). Public shows run every Friday to Sunday. At Main Hall, Thailand Cultural Centre, Ratchadapisek Rd., 02-247-0028. MRT Thailand Cultural Centre. Tickets B400-1,500, at 02-2623456, www.thaiticketmajor.com. More information at www.khonperformance.com

Connect with World War II history and war veterans at the annual remembrance event held up in Kanchanaburi, made famous in the multiOscar winning film Bridge Over the River Kwai (the river is actually called Khwae Yai). This section of the infamous “Death Railway” (Burma Railway) was built by Allied prisoners of war and forced laborers, thousands of whom perished in the process. Commemorative events typically include an emotional ceremony at the Allied War Cemetery, exhibitions and light and sound shows at the bridge in the middle of town. At Amphur Muang, Kanchanaburi. For information call TAT Kanchanaburi at 03-451-1200 or 03-451-2500.

Watch the world’s best futsal (indoor soccer) nations go head to head as Thailand plays host to the 2012 FIFA Futsal World Cup. Past champions Spain and Brazil (currently first and second in the world rankings) will be among the 24 countries vying for the trophy in this fast-paced version of the world’s most popular sport. Quarter-final and semi-final matches will be held on November 14 and 16, before the final decider on November 18.

At stadiums in Bangkok and Nakon Ratchasima.

Tickets B100-900, available online at www. thaiticketmajor.com or call 02-262-3456. More information at www.fifa.com/futsalworldcup.

KHON Performance

RIVER KWAI BRIDGE WEEK

FIFA FUTSAL WORLD CUP

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feature Duet Diary

Street Sights

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Get a different view of Bangkok with these three walking trails

2 Kanom Bueng Werng Nakhon Kasem

3 Seafood Soi Texas Open daily 7pm-11pm.

Open daily 7pm-11pm.

Start your mini food feast with this traditional Thai snack. Kanom bueng is a pan-fried, crispy crepe that comes with several toppings such as foi tong (sweetened egg yolk threads) and coconut. This place’s special ingredient is the egg they spray onto the perfectly crispy crepe, before filling it with the foi tong. One piece is never enough.

FOOD WALK Heiko S

Yaowarat Road. 800 meters, 5 stops.

1 Thian Fah Foundation Hospital

Officially named Phadung Dao Road but more commonly known to locals as Soi Texas, the lane gets its moniker from the famous sukiyakicum-karaoke place located here.

At the beginning of the soi, there are two popular seafood places facing each other across the street.

We have tried both and their taste, freshness of seafood ingredients and prices are not much different.

You can enjoy ample grilled prawns, crabs and scallops and end up paying less then B1,000 for two people.

Hospital open Mon-Sat 9am-3pm.

Shrine open 5:30am-10pm.

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4 Kuay Jab Nai Ek Open daily 9am-1am.

Inspired by a Southern Chinese recipe, kuay jab is roll-like rice noodle with crispy pork belly, blood and intenstines served up in a peppery clear soup. This is one of the most famous kuay jab vendors in town, thanks to a perfect mix of noodles, soup and fresh ingredients.

If you come early in the evening, you might need to queue up for a table.

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Begin your journey at the historic Chinese medicine hospital, which was founded 110 years ago by five Chinese families in order to offer free medical services to underprivileged citizens. Visitors can make merit by donating some money to the foundation and also visit the Chinese-style shrine to pray to the sacred woodcraft statue of the Guanyin Goddess (Chao Mae Kuan Im) for good health and prosperity.

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Guay Tiew Kua Gai

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Seafood Soi Texas

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5 Guay Tiew Kua Gai Open daily 8pm-1am.

Hidden in a tiny alley opposite Yaowarat’s Old Market a grumpy old couple have been serving up guay tiew kua gai (fried noodles with chicken) for decades. Every dish is cooked in a small brass wok, using a fork and spoon so it’s complicated and takes a bit of time but it does also ensure you get an amazing taste. A great end to your gastronomic stroll around Chinatown.

Kanom Bueng Werng Nakhon Kasem

1 Thian Fah Foundation Hospital

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feature SHOPPING WALK Siam Square, Rama 1 Road. 2km, 6 attractions.

Situated next to BTS National Stadium, this is Bangkok’s premier contemporary arts venue. The nine floors of the Guggenheim-inspired building play host to regular exhibitions featuring works from established and emerging artists, along with artrelated shops and boutiques. After enjoying the art, drop by Gallery Cafe Drip (1/F), which is one of the few places in the city that offers drip filter coffee.

Open daily; first movie 10:30am, last movie 8:30pm.

Directly opposite from BACC, this crowded mall is all about bargain shopping: clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs, are all here at relatively cheaper price tags, though, cheap doesn’t always mean good. Its Thai food court (6/F) is one of the best in town.

Opened in 1969, what we love about this cinema is not just its cheap tickets (B100/movie), but the charming Art Deco-influenced design featuring towering pillars, a giant chandelier and a grand sweeping staircase.

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1 BACC

Siam Paragon

Scala

MBK

4 Siam

Phaya Thai Rd.

BTS National Stadium

Central World

Rama 1 Rd.

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2

6

BTS Siam

Square Soi 2

4 Siam 4 Siam Square Soi 3

Square Soi 4

Ratchadamri Rd.

Open Tue-Sun 9:30am-9pm.

3 Scala

Open daily 10am-10pm.

Henri Dunant Rd.

1 Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC)

2 MBK Center

BTS Chit Lom

4 Siam Square Soi 2-4 Open daily 6am-midnight. Shops open daily 11am-8pm.

This small block of streets, lined with local designer boutiques and cute eateries, has been a favorite with teenagers and fashionistas since the 1960s. Siam Square actually consists of 11 sois (lanes), but head to Siam Square Soi 2-4 where you’ll find fashionable boutiques like Issue (pan-Asian-inspired clothes. Soi 3, 02-279-5797), Poem (sartorial suits, shirts and dresses. Soi 2, 02-658-4755) and Mango Mojito (men’s shoes. Soi 2, 02-252-5945). At the corner of Siam Square Soi 10 and Chula 64 Road is the new Siam Vintage section offering quirky collections and a very good fusion restaurant in Kincucino (2/F, Siam Vintage, 083-494-5000).

5 Siam Paragon

6 CentralWorld

Open daily 10am-10pm.

Open daily 10am-10pm.

With a prime location it covers all your shopping needs, from the world’s top luxury labels like Hermes and Louis Vuitton to street-fashion like Zara and H&M. There’s a busy food court in the basement and an aquarium on the lower floor. The fourth floor is home to the Exotic Thai souvenir bazaar.

The world’s third largest shopping complex houses almost 500 shops and restaurants and two department stores over 550,000 sq meters. Shop for imported brands like Uniqlo, Zara, Forever 21 and British India as well as Thai favorites like Disaya and Vickteerut. Its top floors are home to a wide selection of eateries, cinemas and an exhibition space.

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feature Riverside Walkabout

For many Thais, a visit to nine temples on special occasions (New Year or birthdays, for example) promises future good luck and prosperity, as nine is pronounced “gao” in Thai, which also means “progress.” There are several itineraries you could follow, but we recommend the most popular, and the easiest tour to complete in one day.

Many visitors might not know that there’s a short riverfront stroll they can take to enjoy one of Bangkok’s best river scenes— along a path that runs parallel to Phra Arthit Road, stretching from Phra Pinklao Bridge via Phra Arthit Pier to Santi Chaiprakarn Park. The best time to visit is late afternoon when you’ll get good photo opportunities of the Rama 8 Bridge set against the twilight sky.

Wat Phra Kaeo -

Wat Suthat -

to cleanse your soul

for visions and charms

Wat Rakang for popularity

Wat Arun for prosperity

Wat Kalayanamit - for supportive friends and colleagues

Wat Pho -

Wat Sra Ket -

en Klang

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Chao

no Ratchadam

Wat Sra Ket Prachan Pier

rung

Bam

Wanglang Pier Maharaj Pier

Wat Phra Kaeo

Wat Rakang Wat Pho

opportunities

Wat Chanasongkram - for victory

Wat Boworn Nivate

Sanamluang

for creativity

Wat Boworn Nivate - for good

Wat Chanasongkram

Phray a

River

9-Temple Tour

Tha Tien

Wat Arun

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Wat Suthat

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Wat Kanlayanamit Pier

Wat Kalayanamit

for peaceful living

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feature OLD TOWN WALK Mararat Road. 2.2km, 6 attractions

1 Tha Prachan and Amulet Market Open daily, from around 7am to 5pm.

Start your walking tour at Prachan Pier (Tha Prachan in Thai), which lies between Thammasat University, Thailand’s second oldest university, and Bangkok’s oldest and largest amulet market. Ancient Buddha images, amulets and talismans are displayed along the footpath and in small lanes within the area. If you’re considering buying an authentic amulet then you might want to bring along a local expert.

2 Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo Open daily 8:30am to 4:30pm. Entry B350.

Mornings when it’s not too hot are the best time to drop by Thailand’s most visited landmark.

Construction began in 1762 to serve as the royal residence of the first king of the current Chakri Dynasty. The complex is split into three zones: the Outer Court, where you find Wat Phra Kaeo, which houses Thailand’s most sacred Buddha image, the Emerald Buddha; the Middle Court, contains important buildings like the Dusit Maha Prasat and Chakri Maha Prasat buildings; and the Inner Court, the former residence of royal consorts.

3 Nagaraphirom Park Sat behind the Grand Palace, on the bank of the Chao Phraya River, is a two-year-old park, which offers a peaceful spot to relax among trees and lotus ponds and enjoy a great view of the Temple of Dawn before you continue on your walk. Officially named Nagaraphirom by HM the King, old buildings and shophouses were demolished to create this breathable space and give a better view of the Grand Palace from the other bank.

Prachan Pier

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Sanamluang

1

Tha Prachan and Amulet Market

2

Maharaj Pier

5 Museum Siam

6 Pak Klong Talad

Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm.

Open 24 hours.

One of Bangkok’s best museums is housed in a beautiful colonial-style building, previously the Ministry of Commerce. The Museum Siam portrays the history of Thailand through multimedia installations and interactive exhibitions. The venue also hosts interesting rotating exhibitions, like the current Hat Tricks (through December 9) which delves into the history of Thai headwear.

End your old-town trip at Bangkok’s largest flower market. This is where flowers from around Thailand, and the world, arrive before being distributed to hotels, restaurants and small retailers, so you’ll find everything from local jasmine to imported red roses.

Come back again after midnight, when the days batch of fresh flowers start to arrive, for a glimpse of the authentic trading atmosphere.

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Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo

Nakarapirom Park

4 Wat Pho

Tha Tien

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Museum Siam

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Rattanakosin Walking Tour

If you enjoy the old town and want to keep exploring beyond our recommended walk, the Tourism Authority of Thailand has created a mini-site, Rattanakosin Walking Tour, offering a virtual map that includes a 3D, 360-degree gallery with English audio. The distance is approximately 6km with 31 stops along the way.

You can download the walking map in PDF form and add the audio to your iPod playlist to listen to while walking. http://walk.tourismthailand.org

4 Wat Pho Open daily 8am-5pm.

Though Wat Pho is best known as the birthplace of traditional Thai massage, don’t forget to visit the ordination hall and pay your respects to the 43-meter-long reclining Buddha image, the highlights of which are the 3-meter-tall feet inlaid with mother of pearl, displaying 108 Buddhist symbols. You can also get massage lessons at the school on the ground.

THE SMALL, CHIANGMAI

148- 150 Ta Pae Rd. Amphur Muang, Chiangmai 50000 Thailand Tel. +66 53 235 866-7 Fax: +66 53 235 868

info@thesmallhotelgroup.com / www.thesmallhotelgroup.com

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THE SMALL, KRABI

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167 Moo 3, Tambon Ao Nang, Amphur Muang, Krabi 81000 Thailand Tel. +66 75 661 590-2 Fax. +66 75 661 593

info@thesmallhotelgroup.com / www.thesmallhotelgroup.com

4 Wat Pho

5 Museum Siam

KRABI LA PLAYA RESORT 6 Pak Klong Talad

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143 Moo 3, Tambon Ao Nang, Amphur Muang, Krabi 81000 Thailand Tel: +66 75 637 015-20, +66 75 637 500 Fax: +66 75 661 323

info@krabilaplaya.com / www.krabilaplaya.com

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AROUND THAILAND VIETNAM MYANMAR

Land of the Rising Sun

LAOS

Ubon Ratchathani Khong Jiam

Bangkok

Cambodia

The sleepy town of Khong Jiam, on the Lao border, is surrounded by natural wonders.

By Gregoire Glachant

MALAYSIA

where to stay High-end: Book yourself a really swanky INDONESIA

soi sawan waterfall

Khong Jiam, in Ubon Ratchathani, consists of one main street with a post office and a bank, and two restaurants by the river. Just about everything else within an 80km radius is jungle and villages. Not many Bangkokians have made it to the place (yet) and foreign tourists are even rarer. When they do arrive, though, they’re going to love it. The small town is surrounded on every side by mountainous cliffs overlooking the Mekong, crystal-clear waterfalls and brooks running through fields of wild flowers. That’s also why you need to visit right now: while the waterfalls are still gushing and the vegetation is still green from this year’s rainy season. Here are the highlights you can’t afford to miss.

Soi Sawan Waterfall

Pha Taem National Park

This waterfall is the region’s most impressive as it falls from ledge to ledge from the top of a plateau deep into a creek.

You can climb all the way up, where you’ll find one of the region’s most beautiful displays of blossoming wild flowers.

Again, try to make it in November or early December when they are in full bloom.

A trail starts at the visitor center and runs along the foot of a sheer cliff of layered, multi-colored stone, halfway down to the Mekong. Water trickles from the top of the cliff onto little wild flowers at its foot and its walls are painted with prehistoric depictions of animals, humans and simple hand outlines. Pha Taem also features some dramatic rock formations, Sao Chaliang, where giant boulders are perched atop stone columns. (This is one of the rare spots with a restaurant, so grab lunch here.)

retreat by taking out a whole villa (starting from B12,500 / USD414) at Sedhapura (045-351-174, www.sedhapura.com). A sister property of Tohsang (see below), their river views are awesome, thanks to the infinity pools surrounding little loungey islands. In the villas, you’ll find a mezzanine, sunken tub, open-air bathrooms, hardwood furnishings and massive beds. Who said Isaan couldn’t be luxe?

Mid-range: Tohsang Khong Jiam Resort (045-351-174, www.tohsang.com) is right on the river, offering superb views and very natural surroundings. The rooms (starting from B2,354 / USD78) all have views, too, and (see Dining) we really liked the F&B— kai krata for breakfast has got to be the best way to start the day. Rooms are clean, simple and cozy.

Budget: Mongkhon (045-351-352, www. mongkhon.com) offers basic rooms in wooden houses, right in town, for B500 (USD16) a night. They also have an internet café for B20 (USD0.60)/hour if you absolutely need to upload those pics to Facebook straight away.

Sedhapura

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Around thailand

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Saeng Chan Waterfall This waterfall drops through a hole in a stone ledge some 10 meters above. You can comfortably swim in the little pool at the base of this “ray of moonlight” (which is what “saeng chan” means). Shortly after noon, the sun shines through the water for even greater effect.

Sao Chaliang

Pha Chana Dai This is a slightly longer drive from town (about 70km) and you won’t get to the actual cliff without an additional 15km drive in a 4x4. The pay-off? One of the most striking views to be had in Isaan and the chance to witness where the sun first rises in Thailand. (By the way, the sun first sets in Pha Taem which is slightly less dramatic, but less demanding.) On the way, stop and wander into the countryside to see more streams and wild flowers.

prehistoric Art

Saeng chan waterfall

Kai Krata at TohSang

Essentials You will need a car, for sure. Thai Rent-ACar will wait for you at Ubon Ratchathani airport with a little welcome sign, and hand over the car right there and then in the airport’s parking lot—totally hassle free.

Their nearest location is in Khon Kaen so call them to arrange this: 02-737-8888.

A Toyota Vios, for example, is B1,605 (USD53)/day. www.thairentacar.com

Dining Khong Jiam has two restaurants. The one proudly boasting the recommendation by the former prime minister has long been deserted by locals who prefer the place next door, Rim Kong. They do good river fish, such as plaa kang pad cha (spicy stirfried kang fish). And even if you stay in a cheap guesthouse, we strongly recommend you try dining at Tohsang (see page 10), which is also by the river, reasonably priced (for a hotel) and has some very nice local specialties.

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ESCAPES

Manee Dhewa

Travel News Grand openings, hot promotions and special events throughout Thailand.

Phu Kradueng

Loei

LOEI | News 11.11 at H Gallery chiang Mai

CHIANG MAI I Event Art of Travel From November 11, contemporary art space H Gallery Chiang Mai is set to host a photography exhibition by Piyathat Hemmathat called “11.11: Exploration of Mysterious Encounters and Parallel Universes in the Digital Age.” The famous Thai artist and photographer has previously had his images featured in local and international publications like TIME and The Guardian. This exhibition showcases memorable moments that Piyathat captured during his travels in Thailand and abroad.

Mae Rim, close to Four Seasons Resort, Chiang Mai. www.hgallerybkk.com

National Park Reopens After its annual closure for the rainy season due to environmental and safety measures, Phu Kradueng National Park, one of the most famous national reserves in Thailand, has now reopened for public visits and camping—just in time to see the tropical maple leaves turn red (see Around Thailand, page 10 for our feature). Visitors can opt for either a one-day visit (tiring) or an overnight stay (recommended) by bringing their own tent, or choosing from a variety of lodges (B900-3,600). Entry fee is B500 per foreign adults. And as the national park limits visitor numbers to 5,000 people per day, you might want to call ahead or check availability on their website. Phu Kradueng National Park, 042-871-333, 042-871458, www.dnp.go.th; TAT Loei, 042-812812, 042-811-405, tatloei@tat.or.th

NEW ROOM Glow Pratunam Hotel management company, Zinc Hospitality, has just unveiled its second Glow-branded property at the center of Bangkok’s wholesale district, Pratunam.

Glow Pratunam rises above the oneyear-old Shibuya 19 mall and offers 169 rooms (28-80 sq meters) decked out in four different themes inspired by the four seasons. Designed to suit business travelers and tourists alike it offers free Wi-Fi, a 24-hour business center, 24-hour money exchange, swimming pool, fitness center, steam room and the Luna Sky Garden Café on the seventh floor. Rates are from B3,200 with buffet breakfast. 919 Petchaburi Rd., Phayathai, Ratchathewi, Bangkok, 02-257-3999. www.zinchospitality.com

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ESCAPES CHIANG RAI I New Opening Agrarian Utopia Doi Mae Salong in Chiang Rai’s Mae Fah Luang district is renowned as one of Thailand’s best tea plantations, thanks to its location 1,500 meters above sea level, which ensures cooler weather throughout the year. Sat among these hills is a new resort, Manee Dheva. Their nine villas showcase Lanna-architecture with teak wood pillars, white structures and the clay tile roofs typical of Chiang Mai and Luang Prabang. Located in the midst of a vast rice field, you can wake up to see farmers planting rice, while the nearby Mae Salong River ensures a relaxing backdrop.

From November 1-February 28 rates are B4,200-10,500. Mae Salong, Chiang Rai, www.maneedhevaresort.com

TRAVEL TIDBIT Altogether Benefits

Three stand-alone luxury hotels in Thailand, all members of The Leading Hotels of the World group—The Okura Prestige Bangkok, The Sukhothai Bangkok and Rayavadee Krabi—have teamed up to launch a loyalty program, The White Card. The card is priced at B15,000 but comes with plenty of benefits tailored for business travelers and frequent visitors to Thailand.

The offer sees an array of exclusive

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privileges at all three properties, ranging from free lunch buffets to complimentary stays (one night at Sukhothai and Okura, and a buyone-get-one-free deal at Rayavadee).

Cardholders also receive 10-25% discounts on the hotels’ restaurants, spas and rooms. The card is valid for 12 months and can be obtained from the hotels or by contacting 02-168-8748 and www.thewhitecardthailand.com.

CHIANG MAI I Event Northern Tunes Enjoy live jazz with a healthy dose of fresh mountain air at this year’s Chiang Mai Jazz Festival, to be held after dark at the Chiang Mai Night Safari. The two-day lineup includes international songstresses Simone Kopmajer and Malene Mortensen, and Thai talent like the Brass Wave Band and jazz pianist Neung Jakkawal. The family-friendly event will also include food, drink and a children’s play area.

Check the official website for hotels offering promotions exclusive to festivalgoers. November 24-25. At Chiang Mai Night Safari, Nong Kwai. www. chiangmaijazzfest.com. Tickets are B699 (1 day) or B1,200 (2 days), available through www.thaiticketmajor.com, some local retailers and at the gate.

MYANMAR

VIETNAM Chiang Rai

LAOS

Chiang Mai Chiang Mai

Loei

THAILAND

Nakhon Nayok Surin Bangkok

Bangkok

ANDAMAN SEA

Rayong

Hua Hin

Samui

GULF OF SIAM

Samui

Phang Nga

Phuket

SOUTH CHINA SEA MALAYSIA

INDONESIA

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Phuket

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ESCAPES SURIN I Event Elephant Festival In former times, when elephants were still used in Thailand for work and war, the mahouts of the Northeastern province of Surin were particularly famed for their ability to catch and train these mighty creatures. Started in 1960, the Surin Elephant Roundup celebrates the importance of the grey giants in Thai history and displays the local people’s mastery through demonstrations of skill and strength in activities like tug-of-war, football and even mock battles. The roundup starts with the elephant’s breakfast, which sees hundreds of the animals proceed through the town before enjoying a banquet of fruit.

November 17-18. At Sri Narong Stadium, Surin. For more information contact TAT Surin at 044-514-447/8, 044-518-529.

Akyra Chura

Hua Hin I Event

PHUKET | Dining Deal

Vineyard Dining If you’re looking for another reason to go to the beach, then Siam Winery is holding monthly events at Hua Hin Hills Vineyard to celebrate the 10th anniversary of their Monsoon Valley Wines. Through June 2013, the Vineyard is offering bon vivants a weekend getaway of wining and dining, including a 5-course dinner on Friday (B1,800) and a 3-course lunch on Saturday (B690), prepared by a guest chef to match a selection of Monsoon Valley wines. You can also take an elephant-back tour of the vineyard and enjoy other activities like stomping the grapes or cooking classes.

The guest chef scheduled for this month on November 23-25 is Chef Patrick Martens of Zuma, Bangkok. Hua Hin, Prachuab Khirikhan, 081-701-8874-5, 081-7010222. www.huahinhills.com

Harbor-side Grills As well as being the berth of choice for yachtsmen visiting the island, the Royal Phuket Marina is also known for the great food offered at the restaurants and cafes located around the harbor. They’ve recently introduced a BBQ buffet dinner at The RPM Yacht Club every Saturday from 7:30pm. At B500 per person, visitors get to enjoy grilled meats along with live music, surrounded by the multi-million dollar boats. Reservations and enquiries at 084-306-6729, 081-7973364, events@royalphuketmarina.com

Hua Hin Hills

Royal Phuket Marina

SAMUI | News Just the Two of Us Finally, couples who want to enjoy their romantic getaway uninterrupted by screaming kids can ensure some tranquility at the Japanese village-themed Akyra Chura. It celebrates its first anniversary by prohibiting guests under 12 years old, starting from November 1. The minimal designed rooms and suites of this boutique hotel sit on the North Chaweng beachfront, where the sand is powdery white and there are fewer tourists—the perfect spot for peace seekers. The hotel also introduces a relaunch package, which at B34,825 gets you five nights in a grand deluxe with breakfast, roundtrip airport transfer, 90-minute massage for two, one BBQ dinner with a bottle of sparkling wine and a private tour around Koh Samui. North Chaweng, Samui, www.theakyra.com

NAKHON NAYOK | News River Rapids Nakhon Nayok might not rank high on a list of leisure destinations, but it is a favorite among adventurous travelers, who take to the province’s rivers for rafting and kayaking.

Due to the extended rainy season, visitors can continue to enjoy a spot of white water rafting at Kaeng Hin Perng until the end of November. (The season usually ends in October.) The popular rafting spot, located near Khao Yai National Park, can be accessed via routes 304 and 305.

Download a map from TAT Nakhon Nayok’s website, www.tat8.com. Contact 087-820001 for inquiries and reservations.

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Courtesy of the SUPPORT Foundation

where

the guide ART

Exhibition of Hand Embroidery To commemorate the 80th birthday of HM the Queen, the 85th of the King and the 60th of the Crown Prince, the Queen’s Gallery dedicates its five floors to showcasing more than 200 handembroidered pieces. They’ve been created by craftsmen from the SUPPORT Foundation (The Foundation for the Promotion of Supplementary Occupations and Related Techniques), an organization which aims to teach traditional handicraft techniques to rural communities and allow them a means of generating supplementary incomes. The artisans behind the numerous embroidered pieces have been trained for years in this ancient, delicate craft. The pieces are inspired by ancient Thai literary classics such as the Ramayana and Sang Thong, and can be incredibly complex, sometimes taking several years to complete. The exhibition runs until November 13. Queen’s Gallery, Ratchadamnoen Rd., 02-281-5360. Open Thu-Tue 10am-10pm.

arts + CULTURE..................................... 16-18 dining.........................................................19-22 nightlife.........................................................23

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health + wellness...........................24-25 shops + services.................................26-27 Business traveller.................................28

navigate.........................................................29 maps............................................................29-33

Note that the reference at the end of the listings (WS24, ZD3, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the individual maps on pages 29-33. Listings without coordinates indicate locations not within the map.

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BANGKOK Arts+Culture

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Art Exhibition Highlights

Beyond Burma — A new media and painting exhibition featuring the work of five established Burmese artists each offering their own perspectives on the rapid social, economic and political changes that are currently enveloping Myanmar. Nov 10 – Dec 8. Thavibu Gallery, Suite 308, 3/F Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Rd., 085-021-5508. Open Mon-Sat, 11am – 7pm. www.hgallerybkk.com XI10

The Desiring Garden —This exhibition by the Hanoi-based photographer Jamie MaxtoneGraham looks to challenge and contrast images of urban Vietnamese who have been transported into an off-key and exotic garden setting. Nov 3-Dec 27. Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700. Open TueSun 11am-7pm WQ27

Rueng Nak Hua — After the controversy caused

by Lady Gaga wearing the khon (a traditional dance) headdress during her Bangkok performance earlier this year, Museum Siam seeks to build a better understanding of the Thai tradition of wearing hats, headdresses and crowns. Through Dec 9, Museum Siam, 4 Sanam Chai Rd.,02-225-2777. Open TueSun10am-6pm. WQ23

ART GALLERIES 100 TONSON GALLERY — ­ With a prime location and well-designed space, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-684-1527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20 BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTRE (BACC) — ­ The city’s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art-related shops in its impressive 11-story structure. 939 Rama I Rd., Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th YM16

bacc

GOSSIP GALLERY ­— This multifaceted space showcases contemporary pieces from both local and international artists. 3/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-2375568. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. gossipgallerybkk72.com XI10

NATIONAL GALLERY — ­ Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd., 02281-2224, 02-282-2639-40. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www.national-gallery.go.th WQ27 THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes.

101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-281-5360/1.

Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. www.queengallery. org WS27 THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC)­— Home to a large art library, and host to temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-9pm. www. tcdc.or.th ZC4 SERINDIA GALLERY — Run by a publishing company, this charming gallery focuses on the art and culture of Asia. OP Garden, Unit 3101-3201, 4-6 Soi Charoen Krung 36, 02238-6410. Open Tue-Sun 11am-8pm. www. serindiagallery.com XJ10 SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — More of a shop than a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai artworks. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040.

Open daily 9am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www. sombatpermpoongallery.com XL21

Silom galleria — This large mall hosts a range of modern Asian art under one roof.

Highlight galleries include: Tang Contemporary Art, which covers modern Chinese art, and Thavibu Gallery, which features works by Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists. 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-266-5454. The mall is open daily 10am-8pm, though some galleries have different opening times. XI10

MUSEUMS JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. B100. www. jimthompsonhouse.com YM15 NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous property houses some of the most extraordinary architecture, art and antiques in the country. Na Phrathat Rd., 02-215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm.

B50. www.nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th WQ27

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Arts+Culture MUSEUM SIAM ­— This completely restored colonial-style building is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-2252777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. B300. www. museumsiam.com WQ23

Funarium—This giant indoor soft play area is a great option for those parents looking for somewhere safe for their children to blow off some steam. Offering painting, crafts, bike riding, roller blading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas, there’s plenty for the kids to do. 111/1 Sukhumvit 26, 02-665-6555. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 8:30am8:30pm. B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults for three hours. www.funarium.co.th

Y Dramatic Performances

Three shows celebrating Thai culture

attractions

museum siam

New Museum of Floral Culture —

Founded by one of Thailand’s leading florists, Sakul Intakul, The Museum of Floral Culture tells the story of how geography, tradition, and belief have influenced the handling and presentation of flowers, and in turn, how these have affected the course of history. Samsen Soi 28, Dusit, 02-669-3633/4. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Tours in English run daily at 11am.

B150.

KIDs Flow House — If you’re missing the beach, the why not go surfing in the middle of the city?

That’s what this latest attraction offers, thanks to a special machine which gives a similar experience to riding a real wave. Flow House also features bars, restaurants and retail shops specializing in water sports gear. Lessons are available for novices and prices cover board hire, use of showers and towels. Sukhumvit Soi 26. Open Sun-Thu 8am-11pm; Fri-Sat 8ammidnight. Prices start from B550 per hour. www.flowhousebangkok.com

flow house

Grand palace — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. Free tours in English available at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm.

B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25 Madame Tussauds — The famous wax work museum makes it to Bangkok and features a star studded line up of incredibly life-like movie stars, politicians and sportsmen drawn from all over the world. 6/F, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama I Rd., 02-658-0060. Open daily 10am-9pm.

Tickets B800 adults, B600 children over 5.

BTS Siam. YM16 SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household features eight Thai-style houses that showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period. 02-354 Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-2461775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www.suanpakkad.com Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) — Sat on the river’s edge the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmerstyle tower) is decorated with millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means “morning” and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arun Amarin Rd. Wat Arun Pier. WP22 Wat traimit Wittayaram — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm.

Wat phra kaeo (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) — Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace, this important religious site is home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. Also, don’t miss the exquisite mural wall paintings. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am3:30pm. B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25

siam ocean world — Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species.

Highlights include the underwater tunnel, penguin enclosure and the glass bottom boat tour. Basement, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.,02687-2000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm.

B900 for adults, B700 for children. YM17

Joe Louis

Aksra Theater Once performed in the venue’s 600-seat theater, mini hoon lakorn lek (puppet) performances are now held in the Ramayana restaurant, with an international buffet spread included in the ticket price. Wearing sumptuously embroidered outfits, the almost life-size puppets are manned by teams of puppeteers who perfectly coordinate their movements to perform the famous Thai epic the Ramakien. Sessions at 12:30-1pm (B500) and 6:30pm-7pm (B800).

King Power Duty Free Bangkok. 8/1Rangnam Rd, 02-677-8888. www.aksratheatre.com.

Free shuttle to King Power from BTS Victory Monument Joe Louis Puppet Theater The most respected puppet theater in the country relocated this year to riverside shopping complex Asiatique. The theatre is scheduled to be completed next year so the shows are now performed for diners at Joe Louis Thai Cuisine restaurant from Friday to Sunday, 8pm (orders are a la carte). Here too, expect traditional Thai puppetry with lavish costumes and graceful coordinated moves from the puppeteers.

Asiatique The Riverfront, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-2108-4400. www.joelouistheatre.com.

Free boat shuttle from BTS Saphan Thaksin Siam Niramit The 80-minute show at Siam Niramit is Bangkok’s answer to Las Vegas. Colorful sets, live elephants, flying angels, and a large cast take you on a whirlwind tour of Thailand’s mythology and history. From a tableaux covering the ancient Lanna and Ayutthaya kingdoms, you’ll be whisked off to the legendary forest of Himapan as well as experiencing some traditional Thai festivals. Daily, 8pm. B1,500-2,000 show only or B1,850-2,350 with dinner. 19 Tiamruammit Rd., 02-649-9222. www.siamniramit.com. Free shuttle service from MRT Thailand Cultural Centre

wat phra kaeo

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BANGKOK dining

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Elements

The Okura Prestige Bangkok’s recently unveiled signature restaurant has generated plenty of buzz, thanks mostly to Chef Cyril Cocconi, who draws inspiration from his time working with super-chef Joel Robuchon. Elements presents an open-kitchen concept, inspired by the two-Michelin starred Ciel Bleu at the Okura Amsterdam, and features modern cuisine using seasonal produce. The menu changes every few months and features sets (starting from B2,100) and a brief list of a la carte dishes—think 62 degrees sous-vide dover sole served with langoustine, caviar, clams, morels and candied fennel or risotto (organic carnaroli) with mushrooms. The decor takes its inspiration from nature, reimagined via a charcoal wall partition, timber furnishings and the blue LED lighting. There’s an open-air terrace that offers a sweeping view of the city, but we particularly like the big wooden table only separated from the kitchen by a glass screen, making you feel like you’re rubbing shoulders with the cooks. 25/F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok, 57 Wireless Rd., 02-687-9000. Open daily 6-11pm. YM20

DOWNTOWN celadon — Thai. $$$$ Surrounded by lotus ponds, Celadon’s Thai pavilion contains elegant candlelit interiors that help accentuate the refined set menus, such as the seven-course Bai Horapa set.

The Sukhothai Hotel, 13/3 South Sathorn Rd., 02344-8888. Open daily noon-3pm, 6:30-11pm.

Eat Me — International. $$$$ The décor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic.

The kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng.

Open daily 3pm-1am. XG11

Drinking Tea, Eating rice — Japanese. $$$$ Stylishly simple in design, this restaurant allows the food to take center stage. Choose from top-quality sushi, sashimi, teppanyaki and kaiseki options, and wash it down with their extensive sake collection. 3/F, The Conrad Hotel, 87 Witthayu Rd., 02-690-9999. BTS Phloen Chit.

Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm. YN21

Gianni Ristorante — Italian. $$$$ “Gianni’s,” as it’s referred to by most, has earned its following with consistently outstanding food, an elegant atmosphere and smooth service. 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-652-2922. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm. YM20

Pick D’Sens — French. $$$$ The Frenchimported eatery by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers has all the oomph one might expect. The dimly-lit dining room has view of Lumphini Park, and the food is bold and exciting. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000 ext.

2499. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10pm. XF10 Erawan tea room ­— Thai. $$$$ With a classy oriental décor, five-star service and a fine tea selection, Erawan Tea Room also impresses with its authentic Thai dishes and monthly-themed menus. 2/F, Erawan Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02254-1234. Open daily 10am-10pm. YN18

Pick Gaggan ­— Indian. $$$$ After a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and some wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02-652-1700. BTS Chit Lom. 6pmmidnight. YO19 Jim Thompson Bar & Restaurant — Thai. $$$ Located in the former home of Siamese silk expert Jim Thompson, the open-air restaurant by a small lotus pond and its air-conditioned dining room serve up authentic Thai food and simple Western dishes. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, 02-612-3601. www.jimthompson.com.

Open daily 9am-5pm, 7-11pm. BTS National Stadium. YM15

Pick issaya siamese club ­— Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef Ian Kittichai returns to his home country with this restaurant, set in a delightful wooden mansion and featuring inventive twists on classic Thai recipes. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., Sathorn Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$

Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Area guide Downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods Lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 Upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53 NOVEMBER 2012 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 19

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dining La Monita Taqueria ­— Mexican. $$ Handsdown the best place for a quesadilla or fish taco.

The décor and service aren’t much, but you won’t care after your third Reposado Margarita.

Mahatun Plaza, 888/26 Phloenchit Rd., 02-6509581. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am10pm. YM21

Pick Nahm — Thai. $$$$ Former holder of a Michelin star, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open daily noon-2pm, 7-11pm. XG13

Pick Niu’s — Italian. $$$$ Muted tones, crisp white tablecloths and large windows let the inventive and delicious Italian food take center stage. Niu’s also has an extensive wine list and often hosts top-name jazz acts downstairs. Baan Silom, 661 Silom Rd., 02-266-5333. Open daily 5pm-1am. XI10

Tables

Dining news Table Topper Set in the mezzanine overlooking the lobby at the Grand Hyatt Erawan, Tables (494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234, bangkok. grand.hyatt.com) is all about the French tradition of tableside food preparation.

Their current Signature Dinner promotion costs B2,200 and includes an assortment of appetizers, a choice of one main and either European cheeses or dessert to finish (or pay B300 extra for both if you’re feeling gluttonous). Watch as the chefs plate up decadent signature dishes, like Boston lobster bisque, champagne risotto with black truffle, steak au poivre and slow-cooked duck leg with cherries.

Seasonal wines start from B320 per glass.

Promotion available every night through this month.

Beef Up With a rich interior of timber, brick and leather, the newly-opened El Gaucho Argentinean Steakhouse (8, 8/1-7 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-255-2864. BTS Asoke. www. elgaucho.asia) lives up to its macho name (a gaucho is a South American cowboy).

Following its success in Vietnam, the steakhouse is now introducing Argentina’s great love of meat to Bangkok, offering high quality cuts simply prepared. For a taste of authentic asado (Argentinian barbeque), start with the spicy homemade salchicha (sausage, B195), before tucking into some beef (starting from B1,490/ kg) and vegetable skewers (B790) with traditional chimichurri sauce (B70) and a glass of Malbec wine (B250-330).

Ma du zi Restaurant by Yuyai ­— Japanese. $$$$ With a stint at a Joel Robuchon restaurant in Tokyo, Japanese Chef Yuya Okuda’s food is recognizably French, only with very light, very subtle exotic touches. Maduzi Hotel, 9/1 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-615-6400. MRT Sukhumvit.

Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm. ZD3

Reflexions — French. $$$$ Elegant but edgy, with its raw black-and-white photographs of Bangkok, Reflexions is authentic French food without the stuffiness. Chef Thibault Chiumenti cooks with an eye for tradition and bold flavors. 3/F, Plaza Athénée, 61 Witthayu Rd., 02-650-8800. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm. YN21 Ruen Urai — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house, decorated with a blend of contemporary furniture and rare Thai crafts, it offers a polished menu of solid recipes. Rose Hotel, 188, Surawong Rd., 02266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. XF8

Pick Sra bua — Thai. $$$$ The sister of Michelin-starred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen offers Thai food with a contemporary, almost molecular, twist in a soaring, glittering palace dotted with fake rice fields. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. BTS Siam. Open daily noon-11pm. YL17

New Zense — The signature rooftop dining venue of Zen Department Store has just reopened with an all-new look, featuring fashionable décor and spectacular panorama of downtown Bangkok.

Taste dishes from their five kitchens courtesy of five famous Bangkok restaurants. 17/F, Zen, CentralWorld, 02-100-9898. Open daily 5pm1am. www.zensebangkok.com YN19

Pick Zuma — Japanese. $$$$ Their generous salads mix avocado and fresh sushi. The bar is made from a single, monumental slab of stone and the garden is air-conditioned. It’s all wonderfully glamorous. G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-636-0002. Open Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm. YN18

Maduzi

ROSAbieng — Thai. $-$$ This two-story wooden house-turned-restaurant is a great place for those seeking an introduction to Thai food, thanks to its broad menu of properly executed dishes. 3 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-253-5868. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Sat 11am-11pm. ZB1

Pick Seafood Bar — Seafood. $$$ Owned by an oyster importer, this restaurant features 20 types of oysters and a range of perfectly grilled fish dishes cooked with a modern American approach.

Somerset Lake Place, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02663-8863, Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun noon-3pm, 6-10pm. BTS Asok. ZD3 Taling Pling —Thai. $$-$$$ This old favorite, now moved to a new larger venue, sees Bangkokians rub shoulders with tourists to enjoy classic Thai dishes and some lesser known options in a charming old house. 25 Sukhumvit Soi 34, 02258-5308/9. Open daily 11am-10pm. ZD5

Upper Sukhumvit Bacco ­— Italian. $$$ This relaxed, slightly rustic eatery packs in the diners nightly, thanks to its extensive menu of authentic regional specialities.

35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-662-4538. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pmmidnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-midnight. ZC6

Pick Bo.Lan ­— Thai. $$$$ Chefs Bo and Dylan

Fresh Brew The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf (2/F, CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd.) is opening its first branch in Thailand this October. Founded in Southern California in 1963, the chain has already expanded to 20 countries and will serve over 30 varieties of coffee and 20 varieties of tea. Bypass CentralWorld’s many cafes to try one of their signature beverages, the café mocha (finely brewed coffee with chocolate and steamed milk).

Above Eleven — Fusion. $-$$ The twist of this rooftop bar and restaurant, apart from a great city view, is a concept that focuses on Nikkei cuisine: a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. 32/F Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-9300. www.aboveeleven.com ZA1

zuma

Lower Sukhumvit 11 Gallery — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34, Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. ZB1

offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a charming house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes to reflect the seasons. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-2602962. Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pm-midnight. ZD5

Pick ISao ­— Japanese. $$$-$$$$ Despite the standard izakaya facade, Isao offers something different—Japanese cuisine with distinctly American twists, thanks to the chef’s apprenticeship at the Green Tea sushi bar in Chicago. 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645/6.

Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm. ZC4

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dining

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Indus ­— Indian. $$$ An ambient spot with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual north Indian favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. ZE5

INDUS

L’Appart ­— French. $$$-$$$$ Imagine a grand Parisian apartment, which means parquet floors, rich burgundy wallpaper and lots of marble.

The food is French cuisine with Thai touches.

There’s also a full bar but a particular focus on Champagne cocktails. 32/F Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sois 13 and 15), 02-126-9999. Open daily 5pmmidnight. www.sofitel.com ZB2 Near Equal — Thai. $$-$$$ A new location for a long-term favorite in a charming house down a lovely leafy street. Upstairs the wood floors and antique pieces make for a delightful spot to enjoy well-balanced Thai dishes; then head downstairs to browse the selection of Thai furniture and handicrafts on sale. 22/2 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-258-1565. ZC5

NEW >

Steve Café & Cuisine

Located in the small community behind Wat Devarajkoonchon next to Thewet pier, Steve’s offers river views and a charming 60-year old wooden house, while aiming to serve up equally authentic Thai dishes. Despite the age of the building, it is decked out in vibrant colors and there’s a nice open-air terrace to take in the breeze. The kitchen is manned by one of the owner’s mums who has been working in Bangkok kitchen’s for the past 20 years and is a true Southerner who likes nothing better than to whip up powerful, pungent classics like gaeng luang sai bua gung (Southern sour soup with lotus stems and prawns) and gang tai pla (Southern style fish curry). They also do seasonal classics with ingredients imported direct from Chumphon. 68 Soi Sri Ayuthaya 21 (Wat Devarajkoonchon), Sri Ayuthaya Rd., 081-868-0744, 02-281-0915. www.stevecafeandcuisine.com. Open daily 11:30am-11pm.

Ruen Mallika — Thai. $$$ Set in a small sub-soi off from Sukhumvit 22, the nicelydecorated two-story restaurant is nestled in a peaceful garden. The huge menu of Thai classics utilizes homegrown vegetables and herbs and doesn’t hold back on the chili. Soi Sainamthip 3, Sukhumvit Soi 22, open daily 11am-11pm. www. ruenmallika.com Smith —International. $$$$ Set in a former furniture warehouse it’s decked out in an elegant industrial theme, with walls lined with butcher’s tools. Chef Peter Pitakwong’s menu focuses on two things: locally-sourced ingredients and nose-to-tail cooking. 1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02261-0515. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. ZC5

Pick The Local ­— Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef and co-owner Can Markawat keeps the focus on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find traditional recipes. They’re all served in a beautiful hundred-year-old house. There are cooking lessons every Wednesday, too. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm

THE LOCAL

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dining Pick Quince — International. $$$ Quince’s country-classic theme goes for a casual and rustic ambiance that’s part industrial part Spanish villa.

The kitchen’s focus is all about sustainability, ethical eating and local produce with impressive, down-to-earth home cooking and a ‘market’ menu that changes frequently. Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478. Open daily 6-10pm. www. quincebangkok.com

THONGLOR/EKKAMAI 4 Garcons — French. $$$ Cooked by a Thai doctor, this classic French fare is served in a warm and elegant atmosphere. 1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-713-9547. Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm. ZB6 Bonjour — French. $$$$ Fine French dishes served in a bourgeois villa that boasts velvet lounge chairs and a small tropical garden. 1217/2 Sukhumvit Soi 59, 02-714-2112. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-1am. ZC6 Harvey — American, International. $$$$ A very popular spot with the town’s movers and shakers, the food encompasses modern interpretations of American, French and Italian cuisine. 129 Thonglor Soi 9, 02-712-9911. Open daily 11:30am2pm, 6-11pm. ZB6

Blue Elephant

Cooking Schools Helping Hands Thai Cooking (Cooking with Poo)

Meet Saiyuud “Poo” Diwong, 28, who’s cooking school in Bangkok’s biggest fresh market will initiate you to authentic local Thai food.

The school offers a one-day (B1,000/person) workshop that starts with choosing ingredients from the fresh market to cooking up a storm. It’s not easy to find but there’s a free pick-up and drop-off service provided from Emporium Suites (near BTS Phrom Phong).

084-901-8717. www.cookingwithpoo.com

Naj Thai Cooking School

Located in a heritage building dating back to the reign of King Rama V, this school will introduce you to Royal Cuisine, palace life and ancient Thai customs while you get your hands dirty with such elevated dishes as the kratong thong (deep-fried minced prawn in a deep-fried flour cup). The school also has its own herb garden for visitors to study up on the benefits of local plants. The 4-hour cooking lesson is held twice daily from 9am-1pm and 1:30-5:30pm. B2,500 per person including a recipe booklet. 42 Convent Rd., Opposite to BNH Hospital, Silom, 02-632-1004-6. BTS Sala Daeng. www.najcuisine.com

Blue Elephant

The internationally famous Blue Elephant restaurants of Chef Nooror Somany Steppe are also behind one of the longest running cooking schools in the Kingdom. Helmed by respected teachers Rungsan Mulijan and Chumphol Jangprai, classes are available in both group and private sessions. Here too, the emphasis is on the delicate recipes of Royal Thai cuisine and Thailand’s unique produce. The lesson kicks off with a trip to the fresh market, followed by a cooking demonstration and some actual practice in the kitchen. B2,800 for group classes. B5,000 for private lessons. 233 South Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. BTS Surasak. www.blueelephant.com/cooking-school

Hazara —Indian. $$$$ Part of The Face’s elegant compound that also includes a Thai restaurant, bar, spa and bakery. The Northern Indian food is excellent and the décor is a stunning mix of hardwood carpentry and exotic crafts. 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-713-6049. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm. ZB6 Khun Churn — Thai/Vegetarian. $-$$ This family-run eatery, tucked away in the relatively quiet Bangkok Mediplex, has a classy-yet-casual atmosphere and serves up down-to-earth yet delicious meat-free Thai meals. G/F, Bangkok Mediplex Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 42, 02-713-6599.

Open daily 10am-8pm. ZD7 Khun Kling pak sod — Thai. $$ Another single-room family-run eatery, they serve up unapologetically fiery and authentic Southern Thai cuisine. Thonglor Soi 5, 02-185-3977. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-9:30pm. ZC6

Pick Phuket town — Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional Southern-style dishes like kanom chine namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that has plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches. Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm. ZC6 Soul Food Mahanakorn — Thai. $$-$$$ Soul Food dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails, as well as a brief menu of well-executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect on the hip crowd and the place is packed most nights. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pmmidnight. ZC6

Pick Water Library — International. $$$$ A restaurant that serves a maximum of ten diners per night, with a 12-course set menu using the very best ingredients that starts at 7.30pm on the dot prepared in front of you by an army of chefs. It’s very sophisticated, very sexy and yes, it’s expensive, but also very memorable. Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, 02-714-9292/-3. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am. ZB64

(grilled cat fish). 351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-1852619. Open Tue-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; FriSat 11:30am-midnight; Sun 11:30am-10pm. ZA6

Riverside the deck ­— Thai/International. $$$ Book in advance for one of the best spots, out on the second floor terrace, and enjoy the amazing view of Wat Arun across the river. The well-executed menu covers Thai and European dishes. 36-38 Soi Pratu Nokyung, Maharat Rd., 02-221-9158. Open Mon-Thu 7am-10pm, Fri-Sun 7am-11pm. WQ23

Pick Chon — Thai. $$$$ Set in a beautiful Thai teak house overlooking the Chao Phraya River, Chon (“spoon” in Thai) is making a name for itself thanks to the authentic Thai food being served up by Chef Blair Mathieson. The Siam Hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd., Dusit, 02-206-6999. Free shuttle boat from Central Pier. www.thesiamhotel.com

Chon

Le Normandie ­— French. $$$$ The Mandarin Oriental’s showcase restaurant has set the standard for service and cuisine for years­­.

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02659-9000. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm; daily 7-10:30pm. XJ11 Mei Jiang ­— Chinese. $$$$ This elegant establishment overlooking the Chao Phraya River offers one of the best dim sum experiences in town. The food is authentic Cantonese, while the service is knowledgeable and courteous. The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-861-2888. BTS Saphan Taksin. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm.

Supatra Riverside — Thai. $$$$ Situated on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River, the view of the Grand Palace from the terrace of this Thai house is amazing. There are regular cultural performances and a range of classic Thai dishes.

Free boat transfer from Maharaj Pier. 266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arunamarin Rd., 02-411-0305. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm. ZP26

Pick Xuan mai — Vietnamese. $$$ Probably the best Vietnamese restaurant in Bangkok, this is where former beauty queen-then-FBI agent chef Meyung Robson sources the best ingredients, often direct from Vietnam, and cooks them perfectly from traditional recipes. Try the bahn mo thit (Vietnamese sandwich) and cha ca Hanoi

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BANGKOK nightlife Downtown Bed Supperclub — Bangkok’s leading club, with a space-age interior, is divided into two sides—the restaurant, which offers creative food and cutting-edge performances; and the club, where beautiful people come to dance.

26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. Open daily 7pm-2am. www.bedsupperclub.com ZA1 Beervault — This simple and sleek bar is a mecca for imported brews, boasting 48 bottled beers from 12 different countries and six draught beers. Four Points by Sheraton Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 15, 02-309-3113. Open daily 11-1am. ZB2 Hyde & Seek — Elevated pub grub, one of Bangkok’s best cocktail menus and a décor that conjures up both Victorian drawing room style and NYC sophistication. Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-168-5152-3. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. YM21 Levels — Decked out with a huge LED chandelier above a circular bar and a bunch of monochrome sofas surrounding a sizeable dance floor, this cavernous recent addition to the Soi 11 strip aims for a rather swanky audiovisual clubbing experience with international DJs regularly dropping by. 6/F Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246. Open daily 9pm-3am. www.levelsclub.com ZA1

The Speakeasy — The two-story space takes you back to the roaring 1920s with a décor featuring dark wood and leather. A balcony on level 24 lets you take in 180-degree views of Bangkok’s central district, or head to the al fresco rooftop. 24-25/F, Hotel Muse Bangkok, 55/555 Langsuan Rd., 02-630-4000. Open daily 6pm-1am. YN19

Riverside Viva & Aviv — Fitting for its riverside location, this venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nauticallyinspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive, well-made cocktails and pub grub. River City Complex, 23 Yota Rd., 02639-6305. Open daily 11am-midnight. www. vivaaviv.com

ThongLor/Ekkamai Clouds — The futuristic vision is certainly striking— from the undulating ceiling, sporting anything from roses to Barbie dolls, to the acrylic seating inset with leaves. Potent cocktails from the laboratory of a bar add to the techno-ecoinspired theme. G/F, Seenspace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2365. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZB6 Iron Fairies — Like no other bar in Bangkok, it actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling brick walls and

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scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies.

A great live band and powerful cocktails make this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-8875. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. ZB6 Mellow — Another popular spot for dining and drinking, Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, affluent locals. They’re attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and delicious cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am. ZA6 WTF — A collaboration between an art curator, a hip hotelier and a photojournalist, WTF is actually a hybrid bar and exhibition space that’s incredibly popular with Bangkok’s creative expats and local hipsters. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open TueSun 6pm-1am. www.wtfbangkok.com ZC5

wtf

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new >

Sapphire Bar Newly-redecorated and renamed hotel The Sukosol has just launched its new Sapphire Bar, next to the lobby. While aiming to maintain the former venue’s jazz-oriented reputation, it now has a Shanghai-luxe ambiance thanks to an opulent art deco makeover. The house band, James & the Gemstones, performs every FridaySaturday from 9pm. As for drinks, the bar uses Thai rice alcohol as the base sprit for cocktail choices like Tom Yam Roska (with lemongrass, chili, ginger, soda) and the Ritzy Mango (with chili-mango syrup, passion fruit juice, lime). Food can be ordered from the three hotel restaurants and there are daily buy-one-get-one-free deals (57pm), while ladies get free selected drinks and tapas from 7-9pm on Thursdays.

Sapphire Bar, Lobby/F, The Sukosol, 477 Sri Ayutthaya Rd., 02-247-0123, open daily 8-1am. BTS Phaya Thai. november 2012 I WHER E tha i l a n d 23

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HEALTH + WELLNESS bangkok Men Only

SPA

Here’s one for the traveling gents: The Peninsula Spa Bangkok just rolled out a new spa treatment for you guys. The 150-minute Total Rejuvenation for Men program includes a 90-minute Swedish massage, which uses sun-dried sea salts and oil to exfoliate and moisturize the body, a 30-minute full body exfoliation with salt and oil scrub and a 30-minute hand and foot paraffin wax soak. The program also includes complimentary use of the swimming pool and men’s spa products at special prices. Available for B3,700 from now until February 28, 2013. The Peninsula Hotel Bangkok, Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-626-1946.

SPA Apex Medi Spa — Renowned beauty clinic APEX Profound Beauty has gone upscale with this total rejuvenating retreat set in Thong Lor. The spa features in-patient rooms, treatment suites, a restaurant and swimming pool. Programs range from three-hour spa treatments to seven-day weight-loss packages. 208/1-3, Thonglor Soi 8, 02-713-8331-2. Open daily 8:30am-8:30pm. ZC6 I.SAWAN — With its Tony Chi design and its classy residential cottages and treatment bungalows, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a fitness club, tennis and squash courts and a 25-meter pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com YN18 DEVERANA Spa — The impressive white lobby has an almost heavenly quality while the 14 individual spa rooms are little sanctuaries to enjoy a range of treatments from milk baths to body scrubs. Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama IV Rd., 02-636-3596. BTS Sala Daeng/MRT Silom. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.deveranaspa.com XF10 Le Spa with L’Occitane — Thailand’s first Le Spa with L’Occitane boasts a contemporary Thai style combined with an elegant French touch.

Treatments include the Golden Siamese Massage and Four Teas Ceremony. 9/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. between Soi 13-15, 02-126-9999. BTS Nana. ZB2

LET’S RELAX — With branches around Thailand, and a wide variety of packages and trained masseuses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-662-6935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight.

More branches: www.letsrelaxspa.com ZB3 ELEMIS SPA — The Elemis Spa is the first in SE Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the ancient Arabian sauna in the Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777.

BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am-10pm. www. stregis.com/bangkok YN18 THE ORIENTAL SPA — As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.mandarinoriental.com/ bangkok/spa XJ11 S MEDICAL SPA — Founded by a renowned local anti-aging physician, this award-winning spa creates beauty from within, with a selection of integrated wellness programs. 2/2 Bhakdi Bldg., Wireless Rd., 02-253-1010. BTS Ploenchit. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.smedspa.com YL20 SPA BOTANICA — Surrounded by lush gardens, Spa Botanica is an urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best massage options. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd, 02-2344-8900. Open daily 9am-10pm. www. sukhothai.com XG13 PaNPURI ORGANIC SPA — Hidden behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of this luxury spa.

Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1199.

Open daily 10-8pm. www.panpuri.com IM18

THANN SANCTUARY SPA — Treatments using their locally-made world-class spa products, within a tranquil space bathed in soothing lights.

3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.thann. info YM18

AESTHETIC CLINICS APEX SKIN CENTER — If you’re trying to solve some skin issues, check out this well established and popular skin center for state-of-the-art treatments from Botox to micro-dermabrasion. 3/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-644-8613/-4.

BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am-9pm. More branches: www.apexskincenter.com ASTER SPRING — This international chain of skin care and health spas combines German techniques and products to provide effective facial and body treatments. The philosophy here is nofrills and no-nonsense, just good skin products that offer real results. L/F, Gaysorn, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-656-1421/2. BTS Chidlom.

PUTTHARAKSA — From non-invasive face lifts to the derma roller regeneration treatment, their aesthetic care is all about helping your body heal itself. Get further support through their anti-aging treatments. 1535 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-6336.

BTS Phrakhanong. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-9pm, Sun noon- 6pm. www.puttharaksaclinic.com ROMRAWIN — The popular beauty clinic has now expanded to over 20 branches in Bangkok alone.

They cover everything from body treatments and weight-loss programs to acne cures and more, all using state-of-the-art equipment. 4/F, Chidlom Tower, 22 Soi Somkid, Ploenchit Rd., 02-6557625, 02-655-7818. Open daily 10am-9pm. More branches: www.romrawin.com YN19

le spa with l’occitane

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HEALTH + WELLNESS bangkok

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Where Special | Wellness

I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok

I SPA, operator of 15 luxury Thai spas in China, has opened its first spa in

Thailand, bringing an exotic range of authentic health and beauty treatments from China, India, Indonesia, Japan and Thailand to pamper spa lovers with luxurious spa experiences.

Book now, quoting Where Thailand, and receive a 30% saving on all

treatments at I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok. The offer is valid until December 31, 2012.

I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok, Tel: 02 252 9444

Email: info@ispathailand.com, website: www.ispathailand.com

Rejuvenate your mind, body and soul at Spa@Tonson Spa@Tonson provides a Unique & Authentic Massage that is designed

to nourish your mind and body—through an array of massage techniques applied by trained professionals, that will leave you feeling relaxed and

revitalized. Double your sensation with our Signature 4-Hands Aromatherapy massage. A must try for true spa lovers.

Call for special promotion: 02-658-7980 / 081-954-4366. Location: Level 5 Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Bangkok. www.spatonson.com

S Medical Spa S Medical Spa is a complete Rejuvenation center providing a one-stopservice for Optimizing your Health, Appearance and Well-being with a

combination of Spa Therapies and Medical Programs. Services rely on our unique philosophy of “Rejuvenation through Integrated Health Care” in the luxury facilities “Where pleasure can Heal”.

S Medical Spa please call 02-253-1010 Call Center: 086-972-4540 www.smedspa.com, info@smedspa.com

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ShopS+Services BANGKOK

Stella Mccartney

Designer Arrivals

In addition to the street-brand H&M (try 1-2/F, Siam Paragon), more high-end labels are now testing out Bangkok, too, courtesy of the retailer Club 21. Their two new openings on the first floor of Erawan Bangkok (Ploenchit Rd., Bangkok. BTS Chit Lom) are from London: Alexander McQueen (02-250-7844), who recently designed that wedding gown for the Duchess of Cambridge, and Stella McCartney (02-250- 7845), the devout vegan who believes good design doesn’t need animal skins or furs. Across the street at CentralWorld, Central Market Group has also just opened Thailand’s first Versace Jeans shop at Zen (5/F, Zen, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., Bangkok. BTS Siam/Chit Lom), which pairs jeans with gothic, baroque and animal prints.

Downtown Amarin Plaza ­— The mall’s Greco-Roman façade actually hides some unexpected gems.

ID1 on the first floor holds an interesting collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs.

496-502 Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-4704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com YM18 Central Chidlom ­— The closest thing Bangkok has to Harrods, Central Chidlom first opened in 1973 and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. It’s packed with leading brands, like Bottega Venetta, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the impressive Food Hall on the ground floor and the views from the international food court, up on the seventh. 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th YM19

Central CHidlom

CentralWorld ­— Southeast Asia’s largest lifestyle shopping complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000-sq-meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for top brands like Topshop, Gap and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites like Singha Life and Disaya.

Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www. centralworld.co.th YM18

Platinum Fashion Mall ­— Platinum is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashionrelated from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even a single item is very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. www.platinumfashionmall. com YK18

Erawan Bangkok ­— This mini-mall might look petite, but its three floors offer some high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including Yohji Yamamoto, Dior Homme and Lanvin. 494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com YM18

Siam Paragon ­— With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like H&M and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World, Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a cinema. As well as lots of restaurants, there’s also a food court in the basement. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamparagon.co.th YM17

Gaysorn ­— Thailand’s leading high-end mall is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Celine) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1149.

BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com YM18 MBK Center ­— Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and at bargain prices. As a result,­the chaotic MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good. Still it’s fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the 6th floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www. mbk-center.co.th YM16

Siam Discovery Center ­— The sister mall of Siam Center just celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussaud’s wax museum. It also remains the place to come for Thai furniture brands. Rama 1 Rd., 02-6581000. BTS Siam. www.siamdiscoverycenter. co.th YM16

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ShopS+Services Sukhumvit

Elsewhere

The Emporium — ­ Set in the heart of the city’s upscale residential area (home to Bangkok’s largest Japanese community), The Emporium offers luxury shopping without the crowds, thanks to its tenant portfolio, which includes brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Prada, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal, Thann and Jim Thompson. There are also lots of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative Design Center. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www. emporiumthailand.com ZC4

Asiatique — This new shopping center is the first to sit on the banks of the Chao Phraya River and is themed according to the city’s architecture of old. Divided into several sections, ranging from the panoramic waterfront to a 100-year old refurbished sawmill, it includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashions and intriguing souvenirs, plus offers a variety of eateries, beer gardens and wine bars. The gigantic venue is also home to the Joe Louis puppet theater (see page 18) and the transgender extravaganza Calypso Bangkok. You can catch the free ferry from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin). 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488.

Terminal 21 ­— One of Bangkok’s newest shopping complexes boasts an airport terminal-cum-international destinations theme. As you travel through the nine floors you can stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the higher floors offer a host of intriguing boutiques by Thai designers. There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21.co.th ZB3

OP Place ­— Situated in a beautiful neoclassicalstyle building close to the river, this gorgeous luxury mall oozes charm from the sweeping wooden staircase to the antique lift. The plushly-carpeted halls are home to a host of high-end boutiques offering unique and rare antiques and artifacts from across Southeast Asia, handcrafted jewelry, bespoke tailors and fine art. The Ashwood Gallery that occupies the whole third floor is home to some particularly striking pieces. There’s also a free shuttle service to the neighboring OP Garden, which houses an art gallery, restaurants and high-end boutiques.

30/1 Soi 38, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-266-0186.

Open daily 10:30am-7pm. XJ11

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Shopping Walk>

Charoen Krung Road

Start from River City, which is both a mini-mall and auction house with a focus on Asian antiques where you could get anything from Burmese lacquerware to a pair of Thai Naga snakes. On your way down Captain Bush lane, swing by the small row of warehouses home to PTendercool (massive, sculptural tables made locally) and Warp 54 Studio (pop portraits with an Asian focus). On Charoen Krung Road itself, you’ll walk past a multitude of antiques, jewelery and tailor shops. Pop into O.P. Garden for a visit to Serindia Gallery (Tibetan and Himalayan art books and photography), then make your way to The Mandarin Oriental where Lotus Art de Vivre stocks incredibly refined craftsmanship.

terminal 21

MARKETS Chatuchak Market — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is one of the world’s largest weekend markets. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections, roughly categorized by the products on offer. You can literally spend the weekend here amid the rabbit warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 10-24 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and homedecor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/ Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.chatuchak.org Talat Rod Fai — This alfresco night bazaar has quickly become the new hot spot for vintage finds, thanks to the mix of retro fashion, décor and toys for sale and because of the laid-back ambience at the ad hoc bars and cafés. Kamphaeng Phet Rd. MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun, 4pm-1am

november 2012 I WHER E THAILAND 27

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BUSINESS Traveler BANGKOK Q&A GM Talk

Tim Vongswang, 51, is the General Manager at the newly opened Riva Surya, the city’s latest boutique hotel situated right on the river in the historic Phra Athit neighborhood. He’s been in the hospitality industry for over 30 years, doing everything from being a chef in Phuket to running a major gym in Bangkok’s CBD; so who better to tell us what makes Bangkok special and identify the trends in the travel business.

How has the travel industry changed recently?

The growing importance of social networking on people’s decision making process, in terms of what hotel to stay in, even where to visit.

It’s something we’ve had to get very good at understanding, offering individual guests exactly what they need.

What makes Bangkok such a special travel destination?

It’s just got such interesting contrasts. You can have the most luxurious malls and hotels and then right next door is a very humble street stall.

What makes the Riva Surya special?

I think our location is pretty amazing: you’re by the river, you get to experience old Bangkok on your doorstep and you can also skip the traffic by using the river boats.

What’s your favorite restaurant in Bangkok?

An Italian place called Limoncello (Sukhumvit Soi 11), it’s nice and relaxed but has great service and the food is very tasty, very authentic.

What Thai dish you would recommend?

It would have to be som tum gai with kow niow (spicy papaya salad with fried chicken and sticky rice). It’s traditional, it’s healthy and it tastes great.

What do you think is Bangkok most underrated attraction?

The Ancient City (Muang Boran, www. ancientcity.com), because it’s quite out of the way it doesn’t get that many visitors but it’s a really nice place to drive or cycle around and get a great insight into the old Thai way of life.

Riva Surya. 23 Phra Arthit Rd., Phranakhon, Bangkok, 02-633-5000. www.rivasurya.com

SERVICED OFFICES ELITE OFFICE—With two downtown locations by the BTS, the fully equipped offices are available on flexible contracts. Business and work permit assistance is also available. Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm. www.elite-offices.com.

IW SERVICED OFFICE—IW offers customizable offices in prime Sathorn and Sukhumvit locations, complete with secretarial services and meeting room facilities. Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5:30pm. www. iwoffice.com.

OFFICE FIRST—Their Sathorn office provides serviced offices, virtual offices, meeting rooms and business support, with the additional availability of translation services. Facilities are pay-per-use and IT and telecom support is also offered. 47/F, Empire Tower, 195 South Sathorn Rd., 02-6863400. BTS Chong Nonsi. www.officefirst.net.

SERVCORP—With three prestigious locations in downtown Bangkok, this international company promises to impress your clients. Facilities and services vary. www.servcorp.net.

TEMP AGENCIES MANPOWER—A world leader in workforce solutions, they have a range of resources and services in the realm of HR including contract details, payroll and legal side. 02-634-7273. www. manpower.th.com.

PRTR—One of Thailand’s top recruitment and outsourcing agencies, their range of staff services includes matching contract staff to employers on short notice. 02-716-0000. www.prtr.com.

SMART SEARCH—Normally specializing in executive recruitment, the relatively small agency emphasizes their personalized levels of service.

02-714-8088. www.ssrecruitment.com.

OFFICE MATERIALS B2S—You’ll find the office basics at this book, music and stationery store, which has branches in Central and Robinson department stores. Try Central Chidlom (7/F, 1027 Ploenchit Rd.). For more branches: www.b2s.co.th.

OFFICE DEPOT—With 29 branches in Bangkok, the stores at Asoke and Silom are the most convenient downtown. The international chain stocks everything from office electronics to furniture, and if you shop online, orders over B500 are delivered free of charge. Silom branch: 3/F and 9/F, United Center, 323 Silom Rd., 02-267-6262. Call center: 02-808-5555. For more branches: www. officedepot.co.th.

RELOCATION COMPANIES ALLIED PICKFORDS—One of the world’s largest moving services, they provide expert assistance with home, business and corporate relocations.

02-361-3961. www.alliedpickfords.com/th-en.

GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENTS THAILAND BOARD OF INVESTMENT—To encourage investment, the board offers foreign investors incentives and business support, including advice and key contacts. 555 Viphavadi Rangsit Rd., 02-553-8111. www.boi.go.th.

DEPARTMENT OF INTERNATIONAL TRADE PROMOTION—The website is in Thai, but its Thai Trade website features some key information in English. Call center: 1169. 44/100 Nonthaburi 1 Rd., 02-793-9394. www.thaitrade.com.

THAI CUSTOMS DEPARTMENT—The website gives a general guideline of tax regulations pertaining to traders, businesses and individuals, but details should be verified in case of regulation changes. Call center: 1164. 1 Sunthornkosa Rd., 02-667-7100. www.customs.go.th.

CAR RENTAL SIXT—This European company allows 24-hour pick up and return, and between its three Bangkok locations offers a choice of sedan, van, truck, sports car, convertible or SUV. Suvarnabhumi Airport: 086-909-4422. For more branches: www.sixt.com/car-rental/thailand.

HERTZ—Their fleet of Hondas and Toyotas are available at both airports and a downtown location, and with multiple corporate partners (like Thai Airways and ANA), you might be able to save some money or collect some miles with their special offers. Reservation center: 02-266-4666.

For branches: www.hertzthailand.com.

THAI RENT A CAR—The website includes a simple key to help making choosing the right car easier and they offer personal drivers for daily or contract hire. 02-737-8888. For branches: www. thairentacar.com.

AVIS—If you’ll be driving out of town, Avis Thailand has over 30 locations around the country. Bangkok reservation center: 02-251-1131-2. For branches: www.avisthailand.com.

SANTA FE—Aside from relocation, Santa Fe handle related issues like visas, immigration and real estate. 02-742-9890-2. www.santaferelo.com.

ASIAN TIGER—This well-established company offers both ad hoc and bundled services for international and domestic moves. Relocation services: 02-687-7961. Moving services: 02-6877888. www.asiantigers-mobility.com.

TECH SUPPORT Pantip Plaza—A heaven for tech and IT lovers, the rather grungy-looking seven floors are dedicated to gadgets and gizmos. You’ll find countless little stalls selling computers, laptops, mobile phones, printers, mainboards and more, with many computer repair services located on the ground floor. 604/3 Petchaburi Rd., 02-250-1555.

BTS Ratchathewi. www.pantipplaza.com. iSTUDIO—Thailand’s premium Apple reseller has branches in almost every major department store.

Gaysorn, CentralWorld and Siam Paragon are a few locations near to sky train stations. If you need a service center, try the newly-opened iServe service center at Amarin Plaza (3/F, Amarin Plaza, Ploenchit Rd., 02-652-2324 /-7. BTS Chit Lom).

For more branches: www.istudio.in.th.

Service Apartment SHAMA SUKHUMVIT BANGKOK Delivering top-notch service without pretentions, Shama’s consistently high customer rating this year earned them a Certificate of Excellence from TripAdvisor. Furnished with contemporary Thaiinspired décor, the spacious one to three bedroom apartments feature plenty of natural light and are fully-equipped with kitchen, entertainment and laundry appliances. Guests also have access to a rooftop pool, fitness center, meditation room and complimentary Wi-Fi. The location in the middle of the city’s major business and entertainment districts means there are restaurants, a supermarket and two BTS stations all within walking distance.

39/1, Sukhumvit Soi 2, 02-105-6000. Reservation hotline: 02-105-6002. www.shama.com

28 W H E R E T H A I LAND I november 2012

Bussiness_Nov_2012_NEW.indd 28

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bangkok Navigate

overview

Lat Phrao ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

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To Suvarnabhumi Airport

Phaya Thai ¾ÞÒä·

Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒª´Óà¹Ô¹¡ÅÒ§

6

!8 Phra Ram 9 ¾ÃÐÃÒÁ 9

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Queen Sirikit National Conv. Centre Èٹ »ÃЪØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์ Lumphini ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

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1

Bangkok Overview Key

1 Asiatique

!0 Victory Monument

Main road

2 Chatuchak Market

!1 Yaowarat (China Town)

BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

3 Vimanmek Mansion

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumpini Park

MRT

5 Khaosan Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Center

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

!5 Siam Paragon Shopping Center

River/Klong (canal)

7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

!6 CentralWorld and Zen

8 Wat Po

!7 Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

9 Wat Arun

!8 Thailand Cultural Center

Pier

Y

Rama III Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ 3

Sukhumvit Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

To Wongwian Yai Station

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Find out the latest news on Thailand at Facebook.com/WhereThailand | Instagram @where_thailand

november 2012 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 29

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Y

Navigate GET MOVING

CANAL BOATS­—While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only one canal still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Ban Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the

2

3

TO BANG SUE STATION

4

1. Apex Medi Spa C6 2. Apex Skin Center C4 3. Dermaster A7 4. Mulberry Spa B3 5. Oasis Spa C5 6. Le Spa B2 7. Let’s Relax B3

Shopping

1. Terminal 21 B3 2. The Emporium C4

Art & Attractions

1. Kamthieng House B3 2. Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC) C4

10 Arena 10

28

27

Phrom Phong

16

Queen Sirikit National Convention Center Èٹ »ÃЪØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Benchakitti Park ÊǹÊÒ¸ÒóàºÞ¨¡ÔµµÔ

Parklane ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ¾Òà ¤àŹ

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Major Cineplex Sukhumvit

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Ekkamai àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

5

10

26

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12 9

Ekkamai Bus Terminal ʶҹբ¹Ê‹§àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

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Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

23

4

Soi Sukhumvit 40 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 40

D

14

ÊǹÊÒ¸ÒóРàºÞ¨ÊÔÃÔ

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11

Soi Sukhumvit 38 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 38

Soi Sukhumvit 16 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 16

18

Benchasiri Park

2

1

13

Thong Lo

Rain Hill ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ àùÎÔÅ

Soi Sukhumvit 26 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 26

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2

24

21

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Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 34

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19

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

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Sukhumvit

Soi Sukhumvit 24 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 24

Soi Sukhumvit 14 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 14

Soi Sukhumvit 12 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 12

Soi Sukhumvit 10 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 10

3

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F 7

4 ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

E

17

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

8

Terminal 21 ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à·ÍÁÔ¹ÍÅ 21

7 Times Square ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ä·Á Êá¤ÇÃ

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6 15

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5

Soi Sukhumvit 31 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 31

22

Soi Sukhumvit 23 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 23

1

Soi Sukhumvit 19 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 19

13

Soi Sukhumvit 15 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 15

Soi Sukhumvit 13 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 13 2

5, 12

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1. BeerVault B2 2. Bed Supperclub A1 3. Clouds B6 4. Fat Gutz B6 5. Levels B1 6. Iron Fairies B6 7. Manhattan Bar B1 8. Mellow A6 9. Q Bar A1 10. Wine Republic B5 11. WTF C5 12. W XYZ A1

29

Nana TO MO CHIT STATION

These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river.

The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located

by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi.

Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river.

Z

Nightlife

1. 11 Gallery B1 2. 4 Garcons B6 3. Above 11 A1 4. Bacco C6 5. Bo.Lan D5 6. Bonjour C6 7. Fuzio/The Garret B7 8. Harvey B6 9. Hazara B6 10. Indus E5 11. Isao C4 12. Khun Churn D7 13. Khua Kling Paksod C6 14. Kuppa D3 15. L’Appart B2 16. Let Them Eat Cake D3 17. Little Beast B5 18. Ma du Zi Restaurant by Yuyai D3 19. Near Equal C5 20. Phuket Town C6 21. Quince C5 22. Rosabieng B1 23. Seafood Bar D3 24. Smith C5 25. Soul Food Mahanakorn C6 26. Taling Pling D5 27. Thai Lao Yeh C5 28. Water Library B6 29. Xuan Mai A6

9

«ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 11

A

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EXPRESS RIVER Boats—

1

Soi 11

Bumrungrad Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒÅ ºÓÃاÃÒÉ®Ã

Soi Sukhumvit 3 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 3

3

heart of the Old Town, stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically-challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal (klong) water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.

I

J

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

30 W H E R E thailand I november 2012 15

TO MO CHIT STATION

16

17

18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ

19

20

21

Ratchathewi Navigate listing_Nov_12.indd 30

ÃÒªà·ÇÕ

Pantip Plaza ¾Ñ¹·Ô¾Â ¾ÅÒ«‹Ò

Platinum Mall á¾ÅµµÔ¹ÑÁ ÁÍÅÅ

10/17/12 7:47 PM

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ

AIRPORT LINk—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (tenminute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 15-20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B90 one-way and B150 roundtrip for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.

Navigate 7

8 Chamchuri Square ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ

3

10

11 Lumpini Park ÊǹÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

TO NATIONAL STADIUM STATION

Si Lom ÊÕÅÁ

Chulalongkorn Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒŨؿÒŧ¡Ã³

12 ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

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2

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Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§

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1

7

Silom Complex Thaniya Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ

Soi Convent «Í¤͹áǹµ 4

4

Chong Nonsi ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ

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Pan Rd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹

7

STATIO

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42 21

x Dining

P

Chit

OP Place

Oriental Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕ¹àµÅ

22

1. Celadon G13 2. D’Sens F10 3. Dine in the Dark H13 4. Eat Me G11 5. Le Normandie J11 6. Nahm,8Glow G13 7. Niu’s I10 Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃس 8. Ruen Urai G8 9. Scarlett H10 10. Somtum Der F11

23

2 2

Intercity BUSES—There are three main 24 25 1 stations for buses out of town. The Northern Bus Tha Phrachan Pier Tha Tien PierTerminal or Mo Chit (02-936-2841/-3) is located ·‹Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã ·‹ÒàµÕ¹ a taxi ride away from Mo Chit BTS/Kamphaeng Phet MRT and services Northern and Northeastern Thailand as well as some Eastern destinations. The 1 Eastern Bus Terminal (02-391-2504) is located right

by BTS Ekkamai and has buses departing to Pattaya, Rayong, Koh Samed and 9 Finally, the Southern 1 Trat.

1 Bus Terminal or Sai TaiWat(02-894-6122) is located Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ Wat Po ÇѴ⾸Ô์ across the river at Thonburi on Boromratchachonnanee Road and services Western (Kanchanaburi) and Southern Thailand, including the islands of Phuket and Samui.

Wat Rajapardit ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃдÔÉ°

BUSES—The bus is a popular (if slow) budgettravel choice in Bangkok. The Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (BMTA) Wat Suthat operates an extensive number of ÇÑ´ÊØ·Ñȹ routes throughout Bangkok and its nearby provinces.

There are two types of buses: non-air-con and aircon. Fares for non-air-con buses are B6.5-7.5 while fares for air-conditioned buses are B10-23, depending on the distance. Fares are paid to on-board staff, who rarely speak English. Visit www.bmta.co.th for a list of routes and schedules.

1. OP Place J9

1

Art & Attractions

Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

R

1. Gossip Gallery I10 2. H Gallery H11 3. Kathmandu Photo Gallery I11 Emporium 4. Serindia GalleryIndiaJ11 ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ÍÔ¹à´Õ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ 5. Silom Galleria I10

The Old Siam Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ China World ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ䫹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´

S

Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã

X

Shopping 7

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TO WONGWIAN YAI STATION

1. Body Tune G10 2. Devarana Spa F10 3. Divana Virtue Spa I12 4. Health Land G13 Ratchawong Pier Q ÃҪǧ¤ 5.·‹ÒSo SPA F12 6. Spa Botanica G13 7. The Oriental Spa J11

TO BEARING STATION

Saphan Taksin

7

Health & Wellness

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Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡Ãا

5

Memorial Bridge Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊоҹ¾Ø·¸

6

St. Louis Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒÅૹµ ËÅØÂÊ

Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢

4

City Viva

ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Soi Silom 1 9 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 1 5 I

3

Surasak

N

J

1

6

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ã㵌

G

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ

8

¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

Si Lom Rd.

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

Silom Soi 4

TO BANG SUE STATION

5

10

Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ãà˹×Í

2

F

12

silom14

13

Lumphini

Rama 4 Rd. TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

Terminal Í¡ÁÑÂ

2

9

Y

Essential Numbers 27

26

Emergency (Fire Brigade, Police) 191 Siriraj Services Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH)

Wang Lang Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇѧËÅѧ

28

âç¾ÂÒºÒÅÈÔÃÔÃÒª

» ÂÁËÒÃÒª¡ÒÃس Airport Rail Link 02-308-5600.

6 http://airportraillink.railway.co.th

Bangkok Metropolitan Administration Hotline 1555 Bangkok Taxi Call Center 1681 / 1661 Bangkok 4 Mass Transit System (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th BTS Tourist Information Center : 02-6173 7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th Phra Athit Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

Bangkok Metro (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th Wat Chana Songkram ÇÑ´ª¹Ðʧ¤ÃÒÁ

Chao Phraya Express Boat Call Center 02623-6001-3 (daily 6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com Police Station ʶҹյÓÃǨ

Suvanbhumi International Airport 1722/02132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) – 1672. www.tourismthailand.org Tourist Police 24 hour call center 1155 Democracy Monument

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5 7 2012 I WHER E thailand 31 november

Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò

Wat Saket ÇÑ´ÊÃÐࡵØ

Navigate listing_Nov_12.indd 31

10/17/12 7:47 PM

7

8

9

Chamchuri Square ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ

3

10

11 Lumpini Park ÊǹÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

TO NATIONAL STADIUM STATION

Si Lom ÊÕÅÁ

Chulalongkorn Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒŨؿÒŧ¡Ã³

12 ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

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¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 4

2

Sala Daeng

Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§

ÈÒÅÒá´§

Silom Soi 2

1

7

Silom Complex

TUK-TUKs—Tuk-tuks are a noisy Silom but fun way of Soi 4

¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

Si Lom Rd.

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63 TO B

STATIO

N

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

EARIN G

Chong Nonsi ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ

able and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 9 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivH ers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication.

Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price.

àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

4

Fares are B15-B40 for both trains. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.

Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์ bts.co.th and www.bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

There are interchange stations at Sukhumvit (MRT)

TAXIS—In Bangkok metered taxis are readily avail-

Ekkamai

6

/Asok (BTS) and Silom (MRT)/Sala Daeng (BTS).

Soi Convent The underground, or MRT, is one «Í¤͹áǹµ line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down4 through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station.

getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo 8 opportunities.

However, there is no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on aGprice before getting in. Haggle hard and be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

1

6

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ã㵌

Thaniya Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ

TO BANG SUE STATION

5

10

Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ãà˹×Í

2

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

F

minal ÁÑÂ

14

Rama 4 Rd.

Y

12

13

Lumphini

Dining

2

skytrain/underground—The

1. Wat Po Q24

3

Art & Attractions

Pan Rd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹

1. Grand Palace Q25 Surasak ÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ Q23 2. Museum ÊØSiam 3. National Gallery Q27 4. National Museum Q27 5. Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall S26 6. Royal Barge Museum P27 7. The Queen’s Gallery S27 8. Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) P22 Saphan 9. Wat Phra KaeoTaksin (Temple of the Emerald ÊоҹµÒ¡ÊÔ ¹ Buddha) Q25

Soi Silom 1 9 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 1 5

Bangkok Skytrain (BTS) stops at Bangkok’s main dis¡¢ There tricts and gives you a bird’s Mahesak eye viewRd. of¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ the city.

I are two main lines: the Silom Line, which runs from across the river in Wongwian Yai to National Stadium; and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing 5 in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before 7 4 heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak OP Place Oriental Pier Market. Siam is the interchange station between the ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕ¹àµÅ two lines.

St. Louis Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒÅૹµ ËÅØÂÊ

Health & Wellness

Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ 3 7

Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡Ãا

ShoppingCentral Pier

àÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã 1. SUPPORT·‹ÒFoundation Store P25

J

TO WONGWIAN YAI STATION

21

22

23

24

25

8 P

1 Tha Phrachan Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã

Tha Tien Pier ·‹ÒàµÕ¹

Rattanakosin28

26

27

Wang Lang Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇѧËÅѧ

Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) âç¾ÂÒºÒÅÈÔÃÔÃÒª » ÂÁËÒÃÒª¡ÒÃسÂ

6

1

Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃس

2

1

1 Memorial Bridge Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊоҹ¾Ø·¸

2

9

4

Wat Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ

Wat Po ÇѴ⾸Ô์

3 6

W

City Viva

1. Supatra Riverside 3 P26 2. The Deck Q23

Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃҪǧ¤

Wat Chana Songkram ÇÑ´ª¹Ðʧ¤ÃÒÁ

Wat Rajapardit ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃдÔÉ°

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Phra Athit Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

Wat Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·Ñȹ

Police Station ʶҹյÓÃǨ

TO BEARING STATION

7 R

Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

1

India Emporium ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ÍÔ¹à´Õ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ

The Old Siam Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ China World ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ䫹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´

Democracy Monument

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Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò

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32 W H E R E thailand I november 2012

Navigate listing_Nov_12.indd 32

10/17/12 7:48 PM

ʶҹբ¹Ê‹§àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

Soi Sukhumvit 38

Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢Ø

10

Soi Sukhumvit 40 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

ÊǹÊÒ¸ÒóàºÞ¨¡ÔµµÔ

Soi Sukhumvit 26 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

Soi Sukhumvit 24 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁ

Soi

Queen Sirikit National Convention Center Èٹ »ÃЪØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Benchakitti Park

E

Soi

Soi Sukhum

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26

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J

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

TO MO CHIT STATION

15

Y

16

17

18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ

19

SIam21

20

Ratchathewi Platinum Mall á¾ÅµµÔ¹ÑÁ ÁÍÅÅ

14

13

L

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5

15 Siam Discovery ÊÂÒÁ´ÔʤѿàÇÍÃÕ่

Siam Center ÊÂÒÁà«็¹àµÍÃ

Siam Paragon ÊÂÒÁ¾ÒÃҡ͹

6

Central World à«็¹·ÃÑÅàÇÔà Ŵ

Wat Patum Wanaram ÇÑ´»·ØÁǹÒÃÒÁ

Gaysorn ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒà¡ÉÃ

5

Chit Lom ªÔ´ÅÁ

8 P

6

Phloen Chit à¾ÅÔ¹¨Ôµ

Rama 1 Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 1

Digital Gateway ´Ô¨ÔµÍÅà¡็µàÇÂ

Royal Thai Police Êӹѡ§Ò¹µÓÃǨáË‹§ªÒµÔ

General Police Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒŵÓÃǨ

Amarin Plaza Erawan Bangkok ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒÍÑÁÃÔ¹·Ã ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒàÍÃÒÇѹ

3

y

Henri Dunant Rd. ¶¹¹ ÍѧÃÕ´Ù¹Ñǵ

N

Phaya Thai Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÞÒä·

12

Nightlife

1. Hyde & Seek M21 2. The Speakeasy M21 3. The St Regis Bar N18

Health & Wellness 1. Aster Spring M18 2. Elemis Spa N18 3. i.Sawan N18 4. Panpuri Spa M18

3

Ratchadamri

1 11

5 9 2

1

8

1 10

R

ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

S 4

T

TO WONGWIAN STATION

Y 1. Drinking Tea, Eating Rice N21 2. Elements M21 3. Erawan Tea Room N18 4. Gaggan O19 5. Gianni Ristorante N19 6. Grossi Trattoria M19 7. La Monita Taqueria M21 8. Mandopop N20 9. Medici N19 10. Pomodoro N21 11. Reflexions N21 12. Shintaro N18 13. Sra Bua L17 14. Thompson Bar & Restaurant L15 15. Zense N19 16. Zuma N18

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

2

7

Sarasin Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒÃÊÔ¹

O

Dining

16

3

Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ

ÊÂÒÁ

MBK ÁÒºØÞ¤Ãͧ

Soi Tonson «Í µŒ¹Ê¹

M

2 Soi Lang Suan «Í ËÅѧÊǹ

ʹÒÁ¡ÕÌÒáË‹§ªÒµÔ

TO BEARING STATION

Siam

National Stadium

Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃҪǧ¤

Q

Central Chidlom ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à«็¹·ÃÑŪԴÅÁ

5. Romrawin N19 6. S Medical Spa L20 7. Thann Sanctuary Spa M18

Shopping

1. Amarin Plaza M18 2. Central Chidlom M19 3. CentralWorld M18 4. Erawan Bangkok M18 5. Gaysorn M18 6. MBK Center M16 7. Pantip Plaza K17 8. Platinum Fashion Mall K18 9. Siam Center/Siam Discovery Center M16 10. Siam Paragon M17

Art & Attractions

1. 100 Tonson Gallery N20 2. Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) M16 3. Jim Thompson Art Center & House L1 5 4. Madame Tussauds M16 5. Siam Ocean World M17 6. Sombat Permpoon Gallery L21

ATMS—ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside of 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

List of Banks­—Banking hours are generally from 8:30am to 3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm. The main banks are: Bankgok Bank (1333, www.bangkokbank.com), Bank of Ayudhya (1572, www.krungsri.com), CIMB Thai (02-626-7777, www.cimbthai.com), Kasikorn Bank (02-888-8888, www.kasikornbank.com), Krungthai Bank (1551, www.ktb.co.th), Siam Commercial Bank (02-777-7777, www.scb.co.th), Standard Chartered Bank (1595, www.standardchartered.co.th), Thanachart Bank (1770, www.thanachartbank.com), TMB Bank (02-299-1111, www.tmbbank.com), United Overseas Bank (02-285-1555, www.uob.co.th).

Hospitals­—Bumrungrad International, (Sukhumvit Soi 1-3, 02-667-1000, emergency 02667-2999), Bangkok Hospital (Soi Soonvijai, Petchaburi Rd., 02-310-3000), BNH Hospital (Convent Rd., 02-686-2700), Samitivej Sukhumvit (Sukhumvit 49, 02-711-8181), Siriraj SiPH (Phrannok Rd., 1474).

november 2012 I WHER E thailand 33

Navigate listing_Nov_12.indd 33

Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃس

Memorial Bri ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊ

6

Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

3

Chit Lom Rd. ¶¹¹ªÔ´ÅÁ

Ratchadamri Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

K

Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ

Pantip Plaza ¾Ñ¹·Ô¾Â ¾ÅÒ«‹Ò

Soi Som Khit «ÍÂÊÁ¤Ô´

ÃÒªà·ÇÕ

10/17/12 7:48 PM

tea al’s

the g local ket in

Y

20 Things we LOve about Thailand

!0

2

!4 1 Visiting the home of secret agent and silk tycoon Jim Thompson (6 Soi Kasemsan 2, 02-216-7368), a complex of gorgeous Thai teak pavilions packed with Asian antiques.

2 Discovering Michelin-Star-worthy Thai dishes with a molecular twist at Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin (Siam Kempinski Hotel, Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000).

!9

!3

6 Enjoying a relaxing four-hand massage at Spa@Tonson (www. spatonson.com).

!1 Browsing the quirky stalls

!6 Island hopping while admiring

filled with authentic retro items at Talat Rod Fai night market (MRT Kamphaeng Phet).

the stunning limestone karsts that dominate the Krabi coastline.

7 Walking Phuket Town’s heritage trail and experiencing the unique Baba-Nyonya architecture.

8 Escaping the stresses of modern living at one of Bangkok’s meditation centers (try www.bia.or.th).

3 Taking a bicycle trip around the floating markets, lush plantations and crumbling temples of Bang Krajao (Spice Roads, www.spiceroads.com).

!5

4 Riding a long tail boat to Freedom

9 Getting up close to a gentle giant with a day visit to the Elephant Nature Foundation (www. elephantnaturefoundation.org) just outside Chiang Mai.

Beach, the wonderfully inaccessible (and peaceful) beach in Phuket.

!0 Exploring the collection of rare

5 Hunting for bargains in the maze of alleys at Chatuchak Weekend Market (BTS Mo Chit/MRT Kamphaeng Phet).

artifacts and antiques belonging to celebrated Thai artist Tawan Duchanee at Baandum Museum (www.thawan-duchanee.com/ baandum) in Chiang Rai.

!7 Sitting ringside for a Thai drinking in the memories along the River Kwai in Kanchanaburi.

boxing match at Lumpini Stadium (Rama IV Rd., MRT Lumpini, www. muaythailumpini.com).

!3 Waking up early to experience the

!8 Playing 18 holes of the beautiful

floral delights and organized chaos of Pak Klong Talad flower market.

and challenging course at Santiburi Counytry Club in Samui (www. santiburi.com).

!2 Traversing the famous bridge and

!4 Dining on fresh, catch-of-the-day seafood at beachfront restaurants on Arunothai Beach in Chumphon.

!5 Catching a glimpse of what Bangkok used to be like with a klong tour around the old canals (klongs) of Nonthaburi from Saphan Taksin Pier.

!9 Learning the history of flower arrangement in Thailand and Asia at the Museum of Floral Culture (Samsen Soi 28, Dusit, 02-6693633/4), founded by Thailand’s leading Thai florist Sakul Intakul.

@0 Drinking in the Dickensian delights of real-life fairy factory and bar Iron Fairies (394 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 084425-8080).

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where

the guide

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