Where® Thailand December 2012

Thailand

PLUS

d ec e m b e r 2 0 12 the complete guide to go ®

®

The great outdoors Bangkok’s best al fresco venues

fun in khao yai Birthday celEbrations Modern art marvels

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where

the guide Share your favorite Thai moments with

Post your favorite travel photo to Where Thailand Magazine’s Facebook page, with a caption that includes the word “Where,” and you could be a winner!

We’re giving away copies of Very Thai, a popular coffee table book that offers a quirky insight into everyday expressions of Thainess.

The perfect travel memento with which to remember your visit to the Kingdom.

This competition ends Jan 28, 2012. Winners will be contacted by Feb 03, 2012. Prizes will be posted or shipped accordingly. For any enquiries contact where-thailand@asia-city.co.th

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contents where

®

l THAILAND l decEMBER 2012

the guide

Bangkok

18 arts+Culture Where to catch the best modern Thai art, plus Bangkok's top galleries and attractions

20 dining A French favorite moves home and some home-style cooking from a new Thai venue

24 Business Traveler An interview with a leading hotelier plus useful listings for all your business needs

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25 nightlife Enjoy an Arabian Nights experience at the city's newest night spot

Features

26 Health+Wellness Learn more about traditional Chinese techniques and visit a new downtown spa

05 l Out Now Our guide to Bangkok's best new al fresco

28 SHOPS+Services

restaurants and bars

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Visit a new mall that sits right next to the famous Chatuchak Market

10 l Winter Fun Catch a cool breeze by heading to the green

30 Maps

and leafy playground of Khao Yai

Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin

Escapes

also inside 4 Hot dates

12 travel News

12 Managing Editor/Publisher Nick Measures Editor Top Koaysomboon General Manager James Fuss Managing Editor Grégoire Glachant Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapong

The latest deals, promotions

30 navigate

and events around the Kingdom

35 21 Things We Love

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

Marketing Manager Arunee Wilson Marketing Executive Natta Yantasri Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant

MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

On the Cover Above Eleven Cover by Pattarayuth Peantham

Mvp | National Sales Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.

Com

Mvp | Cartography And Circulation General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Morris Comunications Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris Iii President William S. Morris Iv

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/WhereThailand

Mvp | Creative Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

Mvp | Technology & Manufacturing Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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hot dates THAILAND Bureau of the Royal Household, Kingdom of Thailand

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Dec 6-9

Thailand Golf Championship One of the biggest sporting events in the Kingdom, the second edition of the Thailand Golf Championship offers golf fans the chance to see some of the world’s leading players in action. The extremely strong field includes defending champion Lee Westwood, 2012 Masters Champion Bubba Watson, 2012 World Golf Championship Winner Hunter Mahan, alongside other major names like Darren Clarke, Louis Oosthuizen, Sergio Garcia and John Daly. They’ll all be driving off for a slice of the US$1,000,000 prize money at this Asian Tour event, which takes place at the challenging Amata Spring Country Club (www.amataspring.co.th) situated near Chonburi around an hour’s drive from Bangkok.

Tickets are available for individual days (B300500) or for the whole weekend (B800) from Thai Ticket Major (www.thaiticketmajor.com).

Dec 5 HM the King’s Birthday The Kingdom’s deeply revered head of state will turn 85 this month sparking a host of celebrations in his honour. The actual day of his birthday is a national holiday and will see an almsgiving ceremony in the morning followed by a festival of music and culture and a candle lighting ceremony at Sanam Luang.

The area around Ratchadamnoen Avenue will be decorated with lights in the run up to the day and there will be events and celebrations taking place across the country. Visit www.tourismthailand.org for more information.

Dec 14-16

DEC 31

Racing enthusiasts have picked a great time to visit as the Kingdom welcomes some of the world’s leading drivers for the Red Bull Singha Race Of Champions Thailand, to be held at Rajamangala National Stadium, Hua Mark in Bangkok. Only the second time this international event has been held outside of Europe, the aim is to pit the best racers from a host of different motorsports against each other on the same track, in the same cars, in a fast-paced knockout competition.

The impressive lineup includes former F1 World Champion Michael Schumacher teaming up with the current F1 Champion Sebastian Vettel for Team Germany, 2012 Indy Car Series Champion Ryan Hunter-Reay for Team USA and five-time 500cc MotoGP World Champion Mick Doohan for Team Australia. Tickets range from B200-5000 through thaiticketmajor.com).

Start 2013 in style with a host of events and activities set to take place all over the country. If you’re in the capital come December 31 then you’ll find most bars and clubs will have some kind of party going on.

One of the most popular choices is to head down to the Chao Phraya River where all the leading hotels will host gala dinners ahead of the spectacular fireworks display launched from boats on the river.

If you don’t want to go to a formal event, big crowds gather at the large square in front of CentralWorld in Ratchaprasong. Elsewhere in Thailand you’ll find that all the major destinations like Chiang Mai and Phuket will have their own special events while most big resorts and hotels will host gala dinners. Get all the latest updates on events around Thailand at www. tourismthailand.org.

Race of Champions

NEW YEAR COUNTDOWN

Dec 12-13 Elton and Sting This month sees not one, but two, legends of British music arriving in Bangkok. Multi-award winning singer, songwriter and multi-instrumentalist Gordon Matthew Thomas Summer, better known as Sting, the former front man of The Police, heads to Bangkok with his five-piece band as part of his acclaimed Back to Bass tour. Then, the next evening, eccentric singer-songwriter and all-round piano man Elton John celebrates the 40th anniversary of his classic single “The Rocket Man,” with a special one off gig. Both concerts are taking place at Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd. Ticket prices range from B2,000 to B6,000 for the Gold Package option.

For more information and updates: 0-2262-3838 or www.thaiticketmajor.com

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The Great Outdoors Make the most of Bangkok’s brief winter breeze with our round up of the hottest alfresco venues. By Nick Measures Above 11

Rooftop Venues The Speakeasy

Above 11

24-25/F, Hotel Muse Bangkok, 55/555 Langsuan Rd., 02-630-4000. Open daily 6pm-1am.

33/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11. Open daily 6pm-2am.

Perched atop the Hotel Muse Bangkok, The Speakeasy takes you back to the jazz age of the roaring 1920s. The two-story space sports a prohibition-era inspired décor, featuring lots of dark woods and Art Deco touches. A balcony on the 24th floor lets you take in 180-degree views of Bangkok’s business district, while an alfresco rooftop offers a more leisurely ambiance in a terrace atmosphere. The must-try drinks are long-forgotten classic cocktails that really pack a punch, like the Sazerac 1838, which combines Jack Daniels, absinthe and bitters.

THe speakeasy

One of the new rooftop venues to emerge on the Sukhumvit Soi 11 party strip this year, Above Eleven serves Peruvian-Japanese fusion fare, known as Nikkei cuisine, along with a refreshing list of cocktails made from Peruvian Pisco. Make sure you book ahead to get a table right by the edge and take in the sweeping views of Sukhumvit.

Signor Sassi 37/F, Anantara Bangkok Sathorn, Narathiwas Rd., 02-210-9011. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 6pm-11pm.

Founded in 1984 in swanky Knightsbridge, London, and now also in Kuwait and Lebanon, this is the restaurant’s third global branch. The food is resolutely Italian, covering the classics from pasta to antipasti, while the decor contains showy touches like Venetian carnival masks and elegant tableware. An impressive wine list and the spacious terrace dining area should make this a popular rooftop spot this winter.

SCARLETT

Scarlett 37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 02-238-1991. Open daily 6pm-1am.

This year saw the former Sofitel Hotel on Silom Road transformed into the Pullman Bangkok Hotel G. Part of that transformation included the renovation of the 37th-floor wine bar into a brand new venue, Scarlett, a sister to the popular bar by the same name in Beijing. The biggest change to the space was the addition of a breezy outdoor terrace, which packs serious wow power thanks to its city skyline view. An extensive and pretty affordable wine list, the industrial-bistro decor, DJs at the weekend and a menu of classic dishes and tapas options have made it a very popular spot.

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feature Restaurants with Gardens Salt Ari Soi 4, 02-619-6886. Open MonSat 5pm-midnight. Reservations Recommended. BTS Ari. A dining room made of glass walls and concrete, a wooden house whose yard is packed with logs and plenty of outdoor seating make Salt a solid competitor for the crown of most elegant outdoor drinking and dining spot in the trendy Ari neighbourhood.

The food is a mix of French and Japanese classics along with some pasta and particularly decent pizzas, the crowd is sexy and beautiful and there’s also a goนก selection of wines and cocktails, like the Salt Swinging which comes with sparkling wine, cranberry and mandarin juice.

Parata Diamond 396 Ekkamai Soi 24, 085-167-6489.

Open Mon-Sat 6:30pm-1am. www. paratadiamond.com With a contemporary Moroccan decor and a menu of New American cuisine featuring dishes like harrissa lamb strudels and five-spice glazed beef short rib, Parata Diamond is certainly trying to be different. The real highlight, though, has to be the large open-air garden area where you can relax on a daybed enjoying a shisha or watching some short films. Come for the regular happy hour and bring some friends as many of their cocktails, like the recommended Parata Prae, are made to share.

Water Library Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, 02-714-9292/-3.

Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am.

The second branch of this eatery, opened in the heart of nightlife central Thonglor earlier this year, has quickly made a mark on the dining scene with its restaurant serving a maximum of ten diners per night an exclusive and expensive multicourse set menu. Now,

water library

it’s also offering a more relaxed, but very tasteful, adjoining wine bar, which features a charming outdoor terrace, a menu of creative cocktails courtesy of Italian mixologist Mirko Gardelliano and a cellar containing over 370 labels.

Live music on the weekend further refines the laidback mood.

Issaya Siamese Club 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chuaphloeng Rd., 02672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-3pm; 6pm-midnight Set in a stately old mansion with an interior that’s been done up to be bright and bold, Chef Ian Kittichai’s Issaya Siamese Club serves up a vibrant and exciting take on traditional Thai cooking, notably through artful presentation and the use of highquality ingredients. The arrival of winter means you can now enjoy a Kaffir Lime (Bacardi rum, kaffir lime, mint and lemongrass) cocktail or a refreshing cup of fruit tea out on the multi-colored beanbags in the leafy front garden before dining on Thai dishes like the yum hua plee, an elegant pillar of crisp heart of palm and bamboo flower salad, or the delicious kradook moo aob (chili glazed baby back ribs).

ISSAYA SIAMESE CLUB

parata diamond

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PARK LIFE Three central parks in which to escape the chaos of the city.

Lumpini Park

BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom One of the largest parks in the city and the one boasting the most convenient location, Lumpini is a wonderful green oasis. The 142-acre space is home to a big lake which you can explore by row boat, numerous children’s playgrounds, a public library, an outdoor gym and tennis courts.

It’s hugely popular with fitness fanatics who come in the relative cool of the early morning and late afternoon to do aerobics, practice tai chi, and make use of the 2.5 km jogging track.

Suan Rod Fai

BTS Mo Chit, MRT Kamphaeng Phet If you’re heading to the famous Chatuchak Market from BTS Mo Chit, then chances are you’ll walk through the pleasant Chatuchak Park with its lake and manicured lawns. However, many miss the much larger 60-acre Suan Rod Fai just next door. Formerly a golf course, it’s now a sprawling green space that’s home to a butterfly center, numerous lakes and the Buddhadasa Indapanno Archives (www. bia.or.th) meditation center. Hire a bike (B20-30) and explore the leafy grounds.

Benjasiri Park

BTS Phrom Phong Situated right next door to Emporium, it’s a refreshing escape from the bustle of Sukhumvit. Having recently received an upgrade, there are some great playgrounds, a swimming pool, an exercise circuit, not to mention the jogging track, baske/takraw courts and the skateboard mini ramps, as well as the calming influence of the central lake surrounded by intriguing pieces of art. It gets wonderfully busy, too, with people making full use of the facilities.

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chon

babble + rum

Riverside Places Steve Café

Babble and Rum

68 Soi Sri Ayuthaya 21 (Wat Devarajkoonchon), Sri Ayuthaya Rd., 081-868-0744, 02-281-0915. www. stevecafeandcuisine.com. Open daily 11:30am-11pm.

1-2/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Arthit Rd., 02633-5000. Open daily 6.30am-1pm. www. rivasurya.com

Located in the small community behind Wat Devarajkoonchon next to Thewet Pier, this 60-year old house was damaged by the floods last year but has now been revamped with bright colors and homey wooden furniture. There’s a nice open-air terrace to take in the breeze and the kitchen is manned by one of the owner’s moms who has been working in Bangkok kitchens for the past 20 years. A true Southerner, she likes nothing better than to whip up powerful, pungent classics like gaeng luang sai bua gung (Southern sour soup with lotus stems and prawns) and gaeng tai pla (Southern style fish curry).

Babble and Rum is not only the name of the main restaurant located on the first floor of Riva Surya, the new boutique hotel sat beside Phra Arthit Pier, it’s also the moniker for the bar next door, which combines an outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area, perfect for a breezy night out. The riverside terrace shares the same black and white theme as the main restaurant, while the second floor offers a square-shaped open bar painted with Thai poetry and daybeds from which to soak up the river view.

Mixologist Surachit “Art” Jarumanee serves up signature cocktails like the candy flavored Jelly Riva (vodka, melon syrup, lime juice on top of jelly) and the Jamaican Fizz (vodka, mango fizz, mango, syrup and lime juice).

steve cafÉ

Chon The Siam Hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd., 02-206-6999.

Open daily noon-11pm, reservation only.

Overlooking the Chao Phraya River and Krung Thonburi Bridge, Chon is the signature Thai restaurant of Bangkok’s new luxe riverside hotel, The Siam. To match the classic views, executive chef Blair Mathieson, former head chef at the five-star The Chedi in Chiang Mai, promises authentic Thai recipes that utilize the finest ingredients. Set in a beautiful Thai teak house that was brought down from Ayutthaya and painted all in black, Chon also boasts an impressive array of antiques and collectables belonging to the owner

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feature Viva & Aviv River City Complex, 23 Yota Rd., 02-6396305. Open daily 11am-midnight. www. vivaaviv.com. Sri Phraya Pier.

Fitting for its riverside location, this venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nautically-inspired theme with a dash of industrial chic and a pirate-inspired interior. Soak up the river view and breeze while watching the tourist boats plying up and down the river and enjoy the range of inventive cocktails created by the masterminds behind the long-established Hyde & Seek. Try the signature Pina Colasi (Appleton rum, pineapple, coconut foam and more) and snack on decent pub grub like the Four Cheesons pizza.

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Beer Parks

An annual tradition in Thailand’s capital, when the rains stop the locals head al fresco to sit and drink from giant towers of beer, while eating tasty thai snacks (gap glaem) and listening to live music at the numerous beer parks that pop up all over the city. One of the best spots to experience this for yourself is the plaza in front of CentralWorld which, this year, plays host to no less than four parks serving up Tiger, Singha, Chang Export and Thai whiskey Sangsom.

Fans of other brews should be able to find their choice of poison at various smaller venues all over Bangkok.

THE SMALL, CHIANGMAI

148- 150 Ta Pae Rd. Amphur Muang, Chiangmai 50000 Thailand Tel. +66 53 235 866-7 Fax: +66 53 235 868

info@thesmallhotelgroup.com / www.thesmallhotelgroup.com

viva & aviv

Balco

THE SMALL, KRABI

5/F, River City Shopping Complex, Charoen Krung Rd., 084-928-6161. Open Tue-Sun 7pm-2am. Parking available.

Something of a hidden gem, this openair space has got a white-arched roof, a u-shaped bar and impressive downstream views of the river. You’re paying a lot less for the same views as the neighboring fivestar hotels (and it’s on a rooftop) without having to worry about a dress code. Try the Baby Green with vodka, midori, banana liqueur, lime juice and a touch of soda water or stick to the beer and light snacks.

167 Moo 3, Tambon Ao Nang, Amphur Muang, Krabi 81000 Thailand Tel. +66 75 661 590-2 Fax. +66 75 661 593

info@thesmallhotelgroup.com / www.thesmallhotelgroup.com

KRABI LA PLAYA RESORT

143 Moo 3, Tambon Ao Nang, Amphur Muang, Krabi 81000 Thailand Tel: +66 75 637 015-20, +66 75 637 500 Fax: +66 75 661 323

info@krabilaplaya.com / www.krabilaplaya.com

Balco

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MYANMAR

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LAOS

AROUND THAILAND

Cooler Climes

KHAO YAI

Bangkok

What’s fresh in Khao Yai, Bangkok’s winter playground. By Top Koaysomboon

Cambodia

Essentials Getting there Head north on Phahonyothin Rd. and turn right onto Mitraphap Rd. at Saraburi. You can get to Khao Yai through the smaller yet closer Pansuek-Kudkla Rd. next to Dairy Home Restaurant, and the main Thanarat Rd. You really need a car to get around so if you don’t have your own try Sixt (www.sixt.co.th) or Thai Rent a Car (www.thairentacar.com).

Where to sleep Palio Inn (044-365-905, 044-297731, palioinn@palio-khaoyai.com) features 12 compact guestrooms decked out in an Italian countryside theme and is locatedMALAYSIA right in the middle of the bustling Palio shopping centre.

LiFe Park

Every year, the cool breeze blows into Bangkok and then blows straight out again, forcing locals to escape the city for a real taste of winter. The first choice for most Bangkokians is nearby Khao Yai and its famed national park. To make your trip as fresh as the mountain winds, we give you some alternative ideas on where to eat, play and shop.

PLAY Khao Yai is really just Bangkok’s upcountry playground, with an increasing number of fun choices, whether it is horse riding at Thongsomboon Club (www. thongsomboon-club.com) or playing cowboy while enjoying a slice of rural life (and delicious Umm..Milk ice cream) at Farm Chokchai (www.farmchokchai. com). Meanwhile, Life Park (lifepark. greeneryresort.com) is a huge open-air fun

park that offers a host of rides for the whole family, from bumper cars and bowling to more high octane options like the GX-Swing that hurls you as high as a 10-story building.

Pay B1,200 and you’ll get 8 coupons to experience these and more, including paintballing, riding giant orbs or driving ATVs. If you want something a little less daredevil but equally breathtaking then take a ride in the HiFlyers balloon for 360-degree views of the surrounding countryside— weather permitting.

Birder’s Lodge (089-077-1159, 086514-9874, www.birderslodge.com) is perfect for twitchers (that’s birdwatchers). You’ll be sleeping in an airINDONESIA con tent equipped with hotel-standard amenities under the trees.

Hotel des Artists (044-297-444/7423, 084-358-7755, hoteldesartists@ gmail.com). Neither modern contemporary nor Tuscan, Hotel des Artists is set in a white colonial style mansion with rooms filled with equally classic wood furniture and romantic paintings. There are also pool villas, which offer more spaces, for romantic couples.

Palio inn

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Around thailand EAT The sight of so many cows at Farm Chockchai (Mitraphab Rd., 044-328485) might have you hankering for a good bit of grilled meat. While you can eat at the decent Chockchai Steakhouse at the farm, Khao Yai has plenty of other homey eateries offering steak and more. Country Kitchen (Thanarat Rd. Km12, 044-297573. Open Sun-Thu 8am-8pm, Fri-Sat 8am-10pm) has just reopened after a renovation. This is a favorite among TV execs and weekenders for its juicy grills, Thai dishes and delicious fresh prawns from the Lam Ta Khong Dam. Sat next door is its sister cafe, Fairy’s Scone House (081-627-8777) offering English scones and a selection of tea and coffee. A bit further along the same road is Larn Lee Lar (Thanarat Rd. Km9, 081-701-1401, 081870-7042. Open Wed-Mon 9am-10pm).

Owned by an architect, Larn Lee Lar is set in a vintage-wooden house with exquisite decorative details. Its highlights include the fresh papaya salad with shrimps and their sweet waffles.

For something completely different, you can opt for Moon Dance Bistro (Thanarat Rd., 044-297-388, www. moondancekhaoyai.com), a bar and restaurant, which combines contemporary presentations of international dishes like sea bass and rack of lamb with an equally contemporary décor and the occasional live performances from Bangkok-based bands.

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Khao Yai National Park

palio

Of course the biggest attraction in the area is the actual National Park. The second largest in Thailand it covers an area of over 2,000 sq km and ranges from forest clad hills to open grasslands. Offering spectacular hill top views, and a number of dramatic waterfalls it remains one of the best places to spot wild Asian elephants as well as gibbons, black bears and over 320 species of birds. The park is well served by paved roads and bicycles can be hired from the Visitor Center, which also has maps of the easier hiking trails. If you want to get more off the beaten track, the park does get very busy with local tourists at weekends then you can usually organise guides from the many hotels and guesthouses outside the park gates. There is the option to stay inside the park at night, either through a number of campsites (tents can be rented) or the national park lodges and cabins, though you’ll need to make reservations through the national park website (www. dnp.go.th) before you go. Entry fee is B400 for adults and B200 for children.

Hotel des artistes

SHOP Tuscany first arrived in Khao Yai back in December 2007 with the Italian country style architecture of restaurant Primo Posto (www.primo-posto.net), which is currently under renovation. Confirming that Thais are very good at copying things, last year saw the arrival of Palio (www.paliokhaoyai.com), which imitates the style but is bigger and features more choice. It is proving to be the hottest spot in the area thanks to a solid selection of cool cafés (try Azure, 082-603-8008) and boutiques (try Jim Thompson Outlet, 044-365-901). Be warned, though, it does get super packed on weekends with Bangkok visitors.

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ESCAPES CHIANG MAI | News

Travel News

Rare Dishes After organizing a series of exhibitions to support and promote the work of local artists, the Tamarind Village hotel is now currently welcoming visitors to sample some local home-style cuisine at their “Khong Kin Baan Hao” festival. Held at Ruen Tamarind restaurant, the culinary team at the boutique resort have looked to uncover and revive traditional home recipes from several districts of Chiang Mai. The results are rare dishes like namprik plaa (chili paste with boiled fish) and ab plaa (grilled curryand-fish cake in banana leaf). Reservations at 053-418-896, reservations@ tamarindvillage.com. Ratchadamnoen Road, Muang, Chiang Mai. www. tamarindvillage.com

Grand openings, hot promotions and special events throughout Thailand.

CHIANG RAI | New Opening Ruen Tamarind at Tamarind Village

137 Pillars House

U Chiang Mai

CHIANG MAI | New Opening

CHIANG MAI | Hotel Deal

Hot Table The charming 137 Pillars House boutique hotel in the middle of Chiang Mai’s Wat Gate community has just unveiled its newest dining space, Palette, set in the 18th century teakwood mansion at the center of the hotel compound. For the opening, Chef Tamasak Chootong, owner of the famous Suay Restaurant in Phuket, has been invited to create a series of western dishes with Asian touches, using fine ingredients like foie gras, lobster and scallops together with local vegetables from the Royal Projects.

Highlight dishes include pan-seared truffle foie gras with grilled Portobello mushroom, port wine-water chestnut risotto, and grilled lamb rack with pistachio crust, and ratatouille vegetables. 2 Soi Na Wat Gate, Muang, Chiang Mai, 053-247-788. www.137pillarhouse.com

Winter Wonder As Thailand’s winter approaches, U Chiang Mai is rolling out new season rates. Until Dec 24, prices are from B4,399 for a superior room—and if you stay longer, it’s even cheaper (B4,180 per night for two nights; B3,960 per night for three nights and more). The offer includes breakfast, free Wi-Fi, bike rental and an in-room iPod. In addition to its ideal location, right in the middle of the old district, close to Wat Phra Singha and next to the Sunday Walking Street, we really love the hotel’s 24-hour use of room concept that let guests enjoy their stay until the same time as they checked-in originally. Another bonus is the breakfast you can have anywhere, in your room or at the restaurant, and at any time of day.

During Dec 25-Jan 2, rates are from B4,599.

70 Ratchadamnoen Rd., Muang, Chiang Mai, 053-327-000. www.uchiangmai.com

Container Chic The trend of turning industrial containers into living pods seems to be growing in Thailand. After Le Blocs in Sa Kaeo (facebook.com/LeBlocs), we just discovered a similar place in Mae Sai district, north of Chiang Rai, called The Eight Mae Sai. The eight containers here are painted in candy colors and redecorated as guest rooms with simple furnishings. Rooms are compact but packed with all the facilities you need for a comfy sleep with fine bed linen and 32” TVs. Rates are B1,000 for a standard and B1,500 for a superior. The hotel is only 2km from the immigration point at the border so it’s an ideal stop over on your way to Myanmar.

888 Moo 4, Wiangphangkam, Mae Sai, Chiang Rai, 089-954-497. www.facebook. com/the8maesai

The Eight

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ESCAPES TRAVEL TIDBIT Airbnb Thailand Edition

More and more independent travelers are switching from hotels to short-term rental apartments, which give them a larger space and more home comforts for the same price—and the occasional free guided tours from the hosts.

Singapore-based Roomorama has been a big player here in Asia for a while, and now Airbnb (www.airbnb.com), the world’s largest short-term rental portal with more than 200,000 rooms

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worldwide (1,500 in Thailand), has just officially launched its Thailand-based edition (th.airbnb.com). “The idea was born in 2007 when we decided to rent out an empty room with an airbed to help us pay the rent; so we called it airbed-and-breakfast,” explains Airbnb co-founder Nathan Blecharczky. We found a seaview room in Phuket for a mere B1,777, but you can also find whole condos or villas to rent, too.

Cera Resort

CHA AM | New Opening Ceramic Chic Cera Resort, a brand new hotel on Cha Am Beach, doesn’t seem very exciting at first glance—a white-themed, 70room hotel with facilities tailored for kids and MICE travelers, from a large swimming pool to function rooms.

But if you look closer, you’ll find that the property boasts colorful ceramics courtesy of famous Thai ceramic factory Tao Hong Tai in Ratchaburi, owned by the award-winning local artist Wasinburee Sukpanichvoraparch. The resort is also inviting guest artists to decorate five grand suites in five different styles, targeting artsy travelers who are willing to pay B12,000/night. Regular rates are from B2,400 for weekdays.

856 Haad Sooksamer Rd., Cha Am, Petchaburi, 032-508-545/6. www. ceraresortchaam.com

MYANMAR

VIETNAM Chiang Rai

LAOS

Chiang Mai Chiang Mai

THAILAND Bangkok Bangkok

Pattaya Cha Am

ANDAMAN SEA

Rayong

Trat Koh Pha Ngan

GULF OF SIAM

Samui

Samui

Phang Nga

Phuket

SOUTH CHINA SEA MALAYSIA

INDONESIA

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Phuket

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ESCAPES

Koh Chang

TRAT | News Open Season While most beach lovers are looking to the potentially calmer Andaman coast at this time of year, the Tourism Authority of Thailand are trying to tempt travelers east to the islands of Koh Chang and Koh Kood. They’ve joined forces with the local travel industry to welcome the arrival of high season with a bunch of deals and activities. One highlight this month is King Mackerel Fishing Day. Taking place on Dec 7-9 and now in its 10th year, the event sees veteran fishing fanatics compete to catch the biggest of this fast and feisty species. Prizes and details will be announced soon; Get more information at TAT Trat, 039-597-259.

SURAT THANI I News Easier Access Local media have recently been reporting that Koh Pha Ngan, home to the world famous Full Moon Party, will have its own airport very soon. According to the local English newspaper the Bangkok Post, Kan Air (www.kanairlines.com), the Chiang Mai-based airline that normally flies its super-small fleet to Pai, Mae Hong Son, Nan, Phitsanuloke and Khon Kaen, is spending B700 million to build a 1.1-km runway in the northern part of the island, aiming to operate 80-minute flights from Bangkok next year. That’s nothing when you consider that right now you need to take a 30 to 45-minute speedboat from either Chumphon or Koh Samui. If it happens then it’s obviously great news for upscale travelers who wish to experience the Full Moon Party and Pha Ngan’s clear waters.

dusitd2’s Sunset Lounge

NEW ROOM Riva Surya

SilverlakE

PATTAYA | Event Wine and Jazz The SIlverlake Jazz Festival is looking to take advantage of the winter breeze, and is set to take place on Dec 15, 5pm at Silverlake Vineyard on the outskirts of Pattaya. The lineup includes a who’swho of local jazz artists including Koh Mr Saxman, Neung Jakkrawal, Mellow Motif and Mahidol Jazz Orchestra. Tickets are B1,500 from we-booking.com. While at the heart of Pattaya city, dusitD2 Baraquda (Pattaya Sai 2 Rd., 038-769999, dusitd2pattaya.dusit.com) looks to make a comeback with a “Romance Jazz at the Rooftop” series of events. Every Friday and Saturday from now until the end of January, the hotel’s popular Sunset Lounge on the sixth floor will be turned into a jazz venue with performances from saxophonist Aht Gunlayanakupt, from 2011’s Thailand’s Got Talent.

There has been lots happening on Bangkok’s riverfront this year, with a series of new hotels and venues opening.

The latest addition to the banks of the Chao Phraya River is the two-month-old, 68-room hotel Riva Surya. This boutique resort is named according to its prime location on Phra Arthit Road—riva is Italian for (river) bank and surya is Sanskrit for sun—and it’s just a fifteenminute walk from the Grand Palace, three minutes from the infamous Khaosan Road and a short stroll along the footpath to Phra Arthit Pier. The rooms are tastefully decorated in grey hues, combining a Victorian style with modern touches. Ask for a river room and take advantage of the sizeable balconies for views of Pinklao and Rama 8 bridges. Sitting by the pool on the riverfront, its restaurant and bar, Babble & Rum, is perfect for a sunset moment. Rooms start from B3,300.

23 Phra Arthit Rd., Phra Nakhon, Bangkok, 02-633-5000. www. rivasuryabangkok.com

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where

the guide ART

Arts of the Kingdom This month sees the opening of the sixth edition of the Arts of the Kingdom exhibition, held to celebrate the very best in Thai artifacts and heritage craft techniques. Held in the home of Thailand’s first parliament, the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall, it will feature nine new masterpieces crafted by artisans of the SUPPORT Foundation, which was started by HM Queen Sirikit back in 1976 with the aim of raising living standards in rural areas. The ornate and intricate masterpieces range from a nine-metre embroidered screen depicting the magical Himavan Forest to golden models of the royal barge, which, due to their complexity, can take years to complete. From December 2 onwards. Ratchadamnoen Nok Rd., Dusit, 02-283-9411, 02-283-9185. Open Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Tickets are B150. www.artsofthekingdom.com/en.

arts + CULTURE..................................... 18-19 dining........................................................20-23 Business traveller.................................24

Y

nightlife.........................................................25 health + wellness...........................26-27 shops + services.................................28-29

navigate........................................................ 30 maps........................................................... 30-34

Note that the reference at the end of the listings (WS24, ZD3, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the individual maps on pages 29-33. Listings without coordinates indicate locations not within the map. december 2012 I WHERE th a i l a n d 15

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Art+Culture BANGKOK

Art Exhibition Highlights

Safe Place in the Future — First presented back in 2009, this multi-media exhibition presents the works of various Asian artists who ask their audience to consider what makes for a safe place in a world faced with the increased pressures of environmental degradation and urbanization. Through Mar 2013. Jim Thompson House Art Center, Jim Thompson House, Kasem San, Rama 1 Rd., BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. www. jimthompsonhouse.com

The Desiring Garden —This exhibition by Hanoi-based photographer Jamie MaxtoneGraham looks to challenge perceptions through contrasting images of urban Vietnamese who have been transported into an off-key and exotic manufactured garden setting. Through Dec 27.

Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 87 Pan Rd., 02-2346700. Open Tue-Sun 11am-7pm WQ27

Yin — A special exhibition featuring the work of one of the world’s leading still-life photographers Kenro Izu. These fine art platinum prints depict the idea of yin, or the soft force of nature, through various subject matters ranging from flowers to the human form.

Through Dec 16. Serinda Gallery, OP Garden, Unit 3101-3201, 4-6 Soi Charoen Krung 36, 02-238-6410. Open Tue-Sun 11am-8pm. www. serindiagallery.com XJ10.

ART GALLERIES 100 TONSON GALLERY — ­ With a prime location and well-designed space, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-684-1527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20

H GALLERY ­— Set in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions representing emerging contemporary Asian artists. 201, Sathorn Soi 12, 081-3104428. BTS Surasak. Open Wed-Mon 10am6pm. www.hgallerybkk.com XH11

GOSSIP GALLERY ­— This multifaceted space showcases contemporary pieces from both local and international artists. 3/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-2375568. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. gossipgallerybkk72.com XI10

V64 ­— More than 60 artists from Chatuchak Weekend Market teamed up to transform a three-acre space into a large art center, which features studios, a gallery, an art academy, shop and restaurant. 143/19 Chaengwattana Soi 1 Yak 6, Bhangkhen. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.v64artstudio.com

NATIONAL GALLERY — ­ Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd., 02281-2224, 02-282-2639-40. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www.national-gallery.go.th WQ27 THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes.

101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-281-5360/1.

Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. www.queengallery. org WS27 THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC)­— Home to a large art library, and host to temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-9pm. www. tcdc.or.th ZC4

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SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — More of a shop than a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai artworks. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040.

Open daily 9am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www. sombatpermpoongallery.com XL21

Silom galleria — This large mall hosts a range of modern Asian art under one roof.

Highlight galleries include: Tang Contemporary Art, which covers modern Chinese art, and Thavibu Gallery, which features works by Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists. 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-266-5454. The mall is open daily 10am-8pm, though some galleries have different opening times. XI10

MUSEUMS JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. B100. www. jimthompsonhouse.com YM15 NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous property houses some of the most extraordinary architecture, art and antiques in the country. Na Phrathat Rd., 02-215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm.

B50. www.nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th WQ27

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Art+Culture MUSEUM SIAM ­— This completely restored colonial-style building is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-2252777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. B300. www. museumsiam.com WQ23

New Museum of Floral Culture —

Founded by one of Thailand’s leading florists, Sakul Intakul, this museum tells the story of how geography, tradition, and beliefs have influenced the handling and presentation of flowers, and in turn, how these have affected the course of history. Samsen Soi 28, Dusit, 02-669-3633/4. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm.

Tours in English run daily at 11am. B150.

KIDs siam ocean world — Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species.

Highlights include the underwater tunnel, penguin enclosure and the glass bottom boat tour. Basement, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.,02687-2000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm.

B900 for adults, B700 for children. YM17 Funarium—This giant indoor soft play area is a great option for those parents looking for somewhere safe for their children to blow off some steam. Offering painting, crafts, bike riding, roller blading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas, there’s plenty for the kids to do. 111/1 Sukhumvit 26, 02-665-6555. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 8:30am-8:30pm.

B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults for three hours. www.funarium.co.th

funarium

Flow House — If you’re missing the beach, the why not go surfing in the middle of the city?

That’s what this latest attraction offers, thanks to a special machine which gives a similar experience to riding a real wave. Flow House also features bars, restaurants and retail shops specializing in water sports gear. Lessons are available for novices and prices cover board hire, use of showers and towels. Sukhumvit Soi 26. Open Sun-Thu 8am-11pm; Fri-Sat 8ammidnight. Prices start from B550 per hour. www.flowhousebangkok.com

attractions Madame Tussauds — The famous wax work museum makes it to Bangkok and features a star studded line up of incredibly life-like movie stars, politicians and sportsmen drawn from all over the world. 6/F, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama I Rd., 02-658-0060. Open daily 10am-9pm.

Tickets B800 adults, B600 children over 5.

BTS Siam. YM16

Y

Wat phra kaeo (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) — Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace, this important religious site is home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. Also, don’t miss the exquisite mural wall paintings. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25

SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household features eight Thai-style houses that showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period. 02-354 Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-2461775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www.suanpakkad.com Wat traimit Wittayaram — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm.

Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) — Sat on the river’s edge the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmerstyle tower) is decorated with millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means “morning” and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arun Amarin Rd. Wat Arun Pier. WP22

wat phra kaeo

Grand palace — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. Free tours in English available at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm.

B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25

Y SPOTLIGHT

Top Venues for Thai Contemporary Art

Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) Open to the public earlier this year, this new privately funded museum is probably the most impressive permanent collection of modern Thai art in the capital. Funded by a telecom tycoon Boonchai Bencharongkakul, highlights include works from celebrated artists Thawan Duchanee, Chalermchai Kositpipat and Chakaphan Posayakrit. Open Tue-Sun 10-5:30pm. Admission: B180. 499/50 Viphavadee Rangsit Rd., Lat Yao, Chatuchak, 02-953-1005/-7. www.mocabangkok.com

Bangkok Sculpture Center This three-story, studio-office-cum-gallery houses over 250 sculptures all privately owned by Sermkhun Kunawong. There are five sections in total, from the monumental bronze cast pieces on the front lawn to those dedicated to the Thai masters on the second and third floors. The third floor is also home to the impressive rooftop garden displaying the collection’s larger pieces. Open Tue-Sat 10am-4pm. Admission: Free.

PM Center Bldg., Nuanchan Soi 56, Pradit Manootham Rd., 02-791-9400 ext 320. www.bangkoksculpturecenter.org.

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) Now finally finding its feet after being open a few years, this is the city’s center for contemporary art, all housed in a very fluid Guggenheiminspired, 11-story structure. It features regular exhibitions and seminars on floors 7-9, and has an art library in the basement, while the rest of the space is taken up by a growing number of art-related shops and restaurants and cafes. Open Tue-Sun 10am9pm. Admission: Free. 939 Rama I Rd., Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. www.bacc.or.th

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Art+Culture BANGKOK

Art Exhibition Highlights

Safe Place in the Future — First presented back in 2009, this multi-media exhibition presents the works of various Asian artists who ask their audience to consider what makes for a safe place in a world faced with the increased pressures of environmental degradation and urbanization. Through Mar 2013. Jim Thompson House Art Center, Jim Thompson House, Kasem San, Rama 1 Rd., BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. www. jimthompsonhouse.com

The Desiring Garden —This exhibition by Hanoi-based photographer Jamie MaxtoneGraham looks to challenge perceptions through contrasting images of urban Vietnamese who have been transported into an off-key and exotic manufactured garden setting. Through Dec 27.

Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 87 Pan Rd., 02-2346700. Open Tue-Sun 11am-7pm WQ27

Yin — A special exhibition featuring the work of one of the world’s leading still-life photographers Kenro Izu. These fine art platinum prints depict the idea of yin, or the soft force of nature, through various subject matters ranging from flowers to the human form.

Through Dec 16. Serinda Gallery, OP Garden, Unit 3101-3201, 4-6 Soi Charoen Krung 36, 02-238-6410. Open Tue-Sun 11am-8pm. www. serindiagallery.com XJ10.

ART GALLERIES 100 TONSON GALLERY — ­ With a prime location and well-designed space, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-684-1527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20

H GALLERY ­— Set in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions representing emerging contemporary Asian artists. 201, Sathorn Soi 12, 081-3104428. BTS Surasak. Open Wed-Mon 10am6pm. www.hgallerybkk.com XH11

GOSSIP GALLERY ­— This multifaceted space showcases contemporary pieces from both local and international artists. 3/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-2375568. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. gossipgallerybkk72.com XI10

V64 ­— More than 60 artists from Chatuchak Weekend Market teamed up to transform a three-acre space into a large art center, which features studios, a gallery, an art academy, shop and restaurant. 143/19 Chaengwattana Soi 1 Yak 6, Bhangkhen. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.v64artstudio.com

NATIONAL GALLERY — ­ Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd., 02281-2224, 02-282-2639-40. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www.national-gallery.go.th WQ27 THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes.

101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-281-5360/1.

Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. www.queengallery. org WS27 THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC)­— Home to a large art library, and host to temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-9pm. www. tcdc.or.th ZC4

v 64

SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — More of a shop than a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai artworks. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040.

Open daily 9am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www. sombatpermpoongallery.com XL21

Silom galleria — This large mall hosts a range of modern Asian art under one roof.

Highlight galleries include: Tang Contemporary Art, which covers modern Chinese art, and Thavibu Gallery, which features works by Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists. 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-266-5454. The mall is open daily 10am-8pm, though some galleries have different opening times. XI10

MUSEUMS JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. B100. www. jimthompsonhouse.com YM15 NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous property houses some of the most extraordinary architecture, art and antiques in the country. Na Phrathat Rd., 02-215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm.

B50. www.nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th WQ27

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Art+Culture MUSEUM SIAM ­— This completely restored colonial-style building is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-2252777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. B300. www. museumsiam.com WQ23

New Museum of Floral Culture —

Founded by one of Thailand’s leading florists, Sakul Intakul, this museum tells the story of how geography, tradition, and beliefs have influenced the handling and presentation of flowers, and in turn, how these have affected the course of history. Samsen Soi 28, Dusit, 02-669-3633/4. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm.

Tours in English run daily at 11am. B150.

KIDs siam ocean world — Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species.

Highlights include the underwater tunnel, penguin enclosure and the glass bottom boat tour. Basement, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.,02687-2000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm.

B900 for adults, B700 for children. YM17 Funarium—This giant indoor soft play area is a great option for those parents looking for somewhere safe for their children to blow off some steam. Offering painting, crafts, bike riding, roller blading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas, there’s plenty for the kids to do. 111/1 Sukhumvit 26, 02-665-6555. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 8:30am-8:30pm.

B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults for three hours. www.funarium.co.th

funarium

Flow House — If you’re missing the beach, the why not go surfing in the middle of the city?

That’s what this latest attraction offers, thanks to a special machine which gives a similar experience to riding a real wave. Flow House also features bars, restaurants and retail shops specializing in water sports gear. Lessons are available for novices and prices cover board hire, use of showers and towels. Sukhumvit Soi 26. Open Sun-Thu 8am-11pm; Fri-Sat 8ammidnight. Prices start from B550 per hour. www.flowhousebangkok.com

attractions Madame Tussauds — The famous wax work museum makes it to Bangkok and features a star studded line up of incredibly life-like movie stars, politicians and sportsmen drawn from all over the world. 6/F, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama I Rd., 02-658-0060. Open daily 10am-9pm.

Tickets B800 adults, B600 children over 5.

BTS Siam. YM16

Y

Wat phra kaeo (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) — Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace, this important religious site is home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. Also, don’t miss the exquisite mural wall paintings. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25

SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household features eight Thai-style houses that showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period. 02-354 Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-2461775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www.suanpakkad.com Wat traimit Wittayaram — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm.

Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) — Sat on the river’s edge the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmerstyle tower) is decorated with millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means “morning” and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arun Amarin Rd. Wat Arun Pier. WP22

wat phra kaeo

Grand palace — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. Free tours in English available at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm.

B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25

Y SPOTLIGHT

Top Venues for Thai Contemporary Art

Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) Open to the public earlier this year, this new privately funded museum is probably the most impressive permanent collection of modern Thai art in the capital. Funded by a telecom tycoon Boonchai Bencharongkakul, highlights include works from celebrated artists Thawan Duchanee, Chalermchai Kositpipat and Chakaphan Posayakrit. Open Tue-Sun 10-5:30pm. Admission: B180. 499/50 Viphavadee Rangsit Rd., Lat Yao, Chatuchak, 02-953-1005/-7. www.mocabangkok.com

Bangkok Sculpture Center This three-story, studio-office-cum-gallery houses over 250 sculptures all privately owned by Sermkhun Kunawong. There are five sections in total, from the monumental bronze cast pieces on the front lawn to those dedicated to the Thai masters on the second and third floors. The third floor is also home to the impressive rooftop garden displaying the collection’s larger pieces. Open Tue-Sat 10am-4pm. Admission: Free.

PM Center Bldg., Nuanchan Soi 56, Pradit Manootham Rd., 02-791-9400 ext 320. www.bangkoksculpturecenter.org.

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) Now finally finding its feet after being open a few years, this is the city’s center for contemporary art, all housed in a very fluid Guggenheiminspired, 11-story structure. It features regular exhibitions and seminars on floors 7-9, and has an art library in the basement, while the rest of the space is taken up by a growing number of art-related shops and restaurants and cafes. Open Tue-Sun 10am9pm. Admission: Free. 939 Rama I Rd., Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. www.bacc.or.th

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dining BANGKOK Supanniga Eating Room

Sat in a three-story shophouse, this new Thai restaurant offers a posh Thong Lor location and a cozy and chic décor, inspired by the owner’s family boutique hotel in Khon Kaen (also called Supanniga), which combines vivid colors with an earthy palette. The menu is based on dishes the owner’s grandmother used to cook up at home—Thai food that borrows both from her hometown on the Eastern seaboard, Trat, and where the family now lives, Khon Kaen. As such it promises authentic and often rare dishes like the moo cha muang (pork with Guttiferae tree leaves), alongside staples like yam neau lai (beef salad) and pad krapow (stir-fried meat with chili and herbs). These are nicely complemented by a drinks menu that includes a long list of simple but not too sweet martinis. 160/11 Sukhumwit Soi 55 (between Thonglor Soi 6 and 8).

Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm

DOWNTOWN Pick D’Sens — French. $$$$ The Frenchimported eatery by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers has all the oomph one might expect.

The dimly-lit dining room has a view of Lumphini Park, and the food is bold and exciting. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000 ext.

2499. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10pm. XF10 Erawan tea room ­— Thai. $$$$ With a classy oriental décor, five-star service and a fine tea selection, Erawan Tea Room also impresses with its authentic Thai dishes and monthly-themed menus. 2/F, Erawan Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02254-1234. Open daily 10am-10pm. YN18 Eat Me — International. $$$$ The décor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic.

The kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng.

Open daily 3pm-1am. XG11

Pick Gaggan ­— Indian. $$$$ After a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and some wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02-652-1700. BTS Chit Lom. 6pmmidnight. YO19

Gianni Ristorante — Italian. $$$$ “Gianni’s,” as it’s referred to by most, has earned its following with consistently outstanding food, an elegant atmosphere and smooth service. 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-652-2922. BTS Chit Lom. Open

daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm. YM20 Jim Thompson Bar & Restaurant — Thai. $$$ Located in the former home of Siamese silk expert Jim Thompson, the open-air restaurant by a small lotus pond and its air-conditioned dining room serve up authentic Thai food and simple Western dishes. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, 02-612-3601. www.jimthompson.com.

Open daily 9am-5pm, 7-11pm. BTS National Stadium. YM15 Kisara — Japanese. $$$$ Stylishly simple in design, this restaurant allows the food to take center stage. Choose from top-quality sushi, sashimi, teppanyaki and kaiseki options, and wash it down with their extensive sake collection. 3/F, The Conrad Hotel, 87 Witthayu Rd., 02-690-9999.

BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm. YN21

Pick issaya siamese club ­— Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef Ian Kittichai returns to his home country with this restaurant, set in a delightful wooden mansion and featuring inventive twists on classic Thai recipes. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., Sathorn Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

La Monita Taqueria ­— Mexican. $$ Handsdown the best place for a quesadilla or fish taco.

The décor and service aren’t much, but you won’t care after your third Reposado Margarita.

Mahatun Plaza, 888/26 Phloenchit Rd., 02-6509581. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am10pm. YM21

Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$

Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Area guide Downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods Lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 Upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

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dining Pick Nahm — Thai. $$$$ Former holder of a Michelin star, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open daily noon-2pm, 7-11pm. XG13

Pick Niu’s — Italian. $$$$ Muted tones, crisp white tablecloths and large windows let the inventive and delicious Italian food take center stage. Niu’s also has an extensive wine list and often hosts top-name jazz acts downstairs. Baan Silom, 661 Silom Rd., 02-266-5333. Open daily 5pm-1am. XI10

Ruen Urai — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house, decorated with a blend of contemporary furniture and rare Thai crafts, it offers a polished menu of solid recipes. Rose Hotel, 118, Surawong Rd., 02266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. XF8 Somtam Der — Thai. $$-$$$ Yards from the bustle of Silom Rd., this new spot brings typical street food into a more upmarket setting. The menu has a focus on somtam, a spicy Thai papaya salad, and other classic Northeastern dishes. Their martinis are also a highlight. 5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am-10pm. XF11

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Pick Sra bua — Thai. $$$$ Sister of Michelinstarred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen offers Thai food with an almost molecular twist in a soaring, glittering palace dotted with fake rice fields. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02162-9000. BTS Siam. Open daily noon-11pm. YL17

New Zense — International. $$$$ The rooftop dining venue of Zen Department Store has reopened with an all-new look and a striking view of downtown Bangkok. Taste dishes from five kitchens courtesy of five famous restaurants. 17/F, Zen, CentralWorld, 02-100-9898. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.zensebangkok.com YN19

Reflexions — French. $$$$ Elegant but edgy, with its raw black-and-white photographs of Bangkok, Reflexions is authentic French food without the stuffiness. Chef Thibault Chiumenti cooks with an eye for tradition and bold flavors.

3/F, Plaza Athénée, 61 Witthayu Rd., 02-6508800. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm.

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Angelini

Dining News Import Italia Italian restaurant Angelini (Shangri-la Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-236-7777. BTS Saphan Taksin) has welcomed a new head chef, Omar Ugoletti, who honed his craft with stints at two-Michelin starred establishments Uliassi and La Madonnina del Pescatore in Italy. Created using modern techniques and promising beautiful presentation though the creative use of flowers, recommendations include the garden of lobster with citrus jelly, fennel, orange and mesclun and homemade ravioli stuffed with liquid parmesan cheese, capers, burratina cheese, tomato cream and carrot foam.

Sister Soul Serving up American-style sandwiches during the day, El Osito (888/23-24 Mahatun Plaza, Ploenchit Rd., 02-6514399) transforms into a tapas bar at night.

More understated than its sister Mexican restaurant La Monita (situated next door), the interior here is mostly bare concrete, accented by red feature walls and an image of a matador looming large in one corner.

The lunch menu covers salads, pizzas and sandwiches, like the Rueben packed with homemade corned beef. After sundown, they recommend dishes like gambas a la plancha (grilled prawns) and paella negra (squid ink paella) to share.

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Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-259ZC5

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dining Pick Zuma — Japanese. $$$$ Their generous salads mix avocado and fresh sushi. The bar is made from a single, monumental slab of stone and the garden is air-conditioned. It’s all wonderfully glamorous. G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-636-0002. Open Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm. YN18

Lower Sukhumvit

Upper Sukhumvit Bacco ­— Italian. $$$ This relaxed, slightly rustic eatery packs in the diners nightly, thanks to its extensive menu of authentic regional specialities.

35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-662-4538. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pmmidnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-midnight. ZC6

Pick Bo.Lan ­— Thai. $$$$ Chefs Bo and Dylan

11 Gallery — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34, Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. ZB1

offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a charming house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes to reflect the seasons. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-2602962. Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pm-midnight. ZD5

ROSAbieng — Thai. $-$$ This two-story wooden house-turned-restaurant is a great place for those seeking an introduction to Thai food, thanks to its broad menu of properly executed dishes. 3 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-253-5868. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Sat 11am-11pm. ZB1 Rossini’s ­— Italian. $$$$ Chef Stefano Merio works closely with Michelin-star chef Alfredo Russo from Turin to deliver contemporary Italian cuisine with perfect wine pairings. Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8364. BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit. Open Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. Sat 6:30-daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm.

ZC2

Pick Seafood Bar — Seafood. $$$ Owned by an oyster importer, this restaurant features 20 types of oysters and a range of perfectly grilled fish dishes cooked with a modern American approach.

Somerset Lake Place, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02663-8863, Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun noon-3pm, 6-10pm. BTS Asok. ZD3 Taling Pling —Thai. $$-$$$ This old favorite, now moved to a new larger venue, sees Bangkokians rub shoulders with tourists to enjoy classic Thai dishes and some lesser known options in a charming old house. 25 Sukhumvit Soi 34, 02258-5308/9. Open daily 11am-10pm. ZD5

co-owner Can Markawat keeps the focus on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find traditional recipes. They’re all served in a beautiful hundredyear-old house. There are cooking lessons every Wednesday, too. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm country-classic theme goes for a casual and rustic ambiance that’s part industrial part Spanish villa.

The kitchen’s focus is all about sustainability, ethical eating and local produce with impressive, down-to-earth home cooking and a ‘market’ menu that changes frequently. Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478. Open daily 6-10pm. www. quincebangkok.com

bo.lan

Pick ISao ­— Japanese. $$$-$$$$ Despite the standard izakaya facade, Isao offers something different—Japanese cuisine with distinctly American twists, thanks to the chef’s apprenticeship at the Green Tea sushi bar in Chicago. 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645/6.

Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm. ZC4 L’Appart ­— French. $$$-$$$$ Imagine a grand Parisian apartment, which means parquet floors, rich burgundy wallpaper and lots of marble. The food is French cuisine with Thai touches. There’s also a full bar but a particular focus on Champagne cocktails. 32/F Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sois 13 and 15), 02-1269999. Open daily 5pm-midnight. www.sofitel. com ZB2 Indus ­— Indian. $$$ An ambient spot with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual north Indian favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:3010:30pm. ZE5

rossini’s

Pick The Local ­— Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef and

Pick Quince — International. $$$ Quince’s

Above Eleven — Fusion. $-$$ The twist of this rooftop bar and restaurant, apart from a great city view, is a concept that focuses on Nikkei cuisine: a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. 32/F Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-9300. www.aboveeleven.com ZA1 Ma du zi Restaurant by Yuyai — ­ Japanese. $$$$ With a stint at a Joel Robuchon restaurant in Tokyo, Japanese Chef Yuya Okuda’s food is recognizably French, only with very light, very subtle exotic touches. Maduzi Hotel, 9/1 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-615-6400. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm. ZD3

Smith — International. $$$$ Set in a former furniture warehouse, it’s decked out in an elegant industrial theme, with walls lined with butcher’s tools. Chef Peter Pitakwong’s menu focuses on two things: locally-sourced ingredients and noseto-tail cooking. 1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-2610515. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. ZC5

Near Equal — Thai. $$-$$$ A new location for a long-term favorite in a charming house down a lovely leafy street. Upstairs the wood floors and antique pieces make for a delightful spot to enjoy well-balanced Thai dishes; then head downstairs to browse the selection of Thai furniture and handicrafts on sale. 22/2 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02258-1565. ZC5 Ruen Mallika — Thai. $$$ Set in a small sub-soi off from Sukhumvit 22, the nicely-decorated two-story restaurant is nestled in a peaceful garden. The huge menu of Thai classics utilizes homegrown vegetables and herbs and doesn’t hold back on the chili. Soi Sainamthip 3, Sukhumvit Soi 22, open daily 11am-11pm. www.ruenmallika. com

THONGLOR/EKKAMAI 4 Garcons — French. $$$ Cooked by a Thai doctor, this classic French fare is served in a warm and elegant atmosphere. 1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-713-9547.

Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm. ZB6 Bonjour — French. $$$$ Fine French dishes served in a bourgeois villa that boasts velvet lounge chairs and a small tropical garden. 1217/2 Sukhumvit Soi 59, 02-714-2112. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-1am. ZC6 Harvey — American, International. $$$$ A very popular spot with the town’s movers and shakers, the food encompasses modern interpretations of American, French and Italian cuisine. 129 Thonglor Soi 9, 02-712-9911. Open daily 11:30am2pm, 6-11pm. ZB6 Hazara —Indian. $$$$ Part of The Face’s elegant compound that also includes a Thai restaurant, bar, spa and bakery. The Northern Indian food is excellent and the décor is a stunning mix of hardwood carpentry and exotic crafts. 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-713-6049. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm. ZB6 Khun Churn — Thai/Vegetarian. $-$$ This family-run eatery, tucked away in the relatively quiet Bangkok Mediplex, has a classy-yet-casual atmosphere and serves up down-to-earth yet delicious meat-free Thai meals. G/F, Bangkok Mediplex Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 42, 02-713-6599.

Open daily 10am-8pm. ZD7 Khun Kling pak sod — Thai. $$ Another single-room family-run eatery, they serve up unapologetically fiery and authentic Southern Thai cuisine. Thonglor Soi 5, 02-185-3977. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-9:30pm. ZC6 Mr. Jones’ Orphanage — Bakery. $$ This quirky pastry venue combines elements of country kitchen, Catholic church and Santa’s workshop.

The focus is firmly on baked sweets, including the intriguingly named Chocky Mud Pie and Custard Cow’s Poo. G/F SeenSpace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, Bangkok, 02-185-2378.

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mvit Soi 45, 02-259-2871-3. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 11am-2pm.

dining Pick Phuket town — Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional Southern-style dishes like kanom chine namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that has plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches. Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm. ZC6 Soul Food Mahanakorn — Thai. $$-$$$ Soul Food dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails, as well as a brief menu of well-executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect on the hip crowd and the place is packed most nights. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pmmidnight. ZC6

Pick Xuan mai — Vietnamese. $$$ Probably the best Vietnamese restaurant in town, this is where former beauty queen-then-FBI agent chef Meyung Robson sources the best ingredients, often direct from Vietnam, and cooks them perfectly from traditional recipes. Try the bahn mo thit (Vietnamese sandwich) and the cha ca Hanoi (grilled cat fish). 351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-185-2619. Open Tue-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 11:30am-midnight; Sun 11:30am10pm. ZA6

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Riverside NeW Chon — Thai. $$$$ Set in a beautiful Thai teak house overlooking the Chao Phraya River, Chon (“spoon” in Thai) is making a name for itself thanks to the authentic Thai food being served up by Chef Blair Mathieson. The Siam Hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd., Dusit, 02-206-6999. Free shuttle boat from Central Pier. www.thesiamhotel.com the deck ­— Thai/International. $$$ Book in advance for one of the best spots, out on the second floor terrace, and enjoy the amazing view of Wat Arun across the river. The well-executed menu covers Thai and European dishes. 36-38 Soi Pratu Nokyung, Maharat Rd., 02-221-9158. Open Mon-Thu 7am-10pm, Fri-Sun 7am-11pm. WQ23 Le Normandie ­— French. $$$$ The Mandarin Oriental’s showcase restaurant has set the standard for service and cuisine for years­­.

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02659-9000. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm; daily 7-10:30pm. XJ11 Supatra Riverside — Thai. $$$$ Situated on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River, the view of the Grand Palace from the terrace of this Thai house is amazing. There are regular cultural performances and a range of classic Thai dishes.

Free boat transfer from Maharaj Pier. 266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arunamarin Rd., 02-411-0305. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm. ZP26

Le Beaulieu

Francophile foodies are celebrating the return of this Gallic gastronomic institution and its chef Herve Frerard. Now sat in one corner of the lobby of an opulent, gleaming office complex, the space is dominated by a central brown spiral staircase with an overall mood that is intimate but very polished. The food is resolutely French with a mix of hearty, rustic options like the baked morteau sausage served with a rich tomato lentil sauce and terrine de pot au feu alongside bistro classics like bouillabaisse and sole meunière. It’s simple dishes using high quality ingredients imported direct from France or making the most of the chef’s involvement with the Royal Projects.

G/F Athénée Office Tower, 63 Wireless Rd., 02-168-8220-3 www.le-beulieu.com YM21

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BUSINESS BANGKOK Q&A GM Talk

After five years as the General Manager of the W Seoul-Walkerhill in South Korea, Nick Heath is now set to oversee the launch of W Bangkok on December 7, the second property in Thailand from the New York hotel chain known for its fashionable design and edgy vibe. He tells us what makes W Hotels and Thailand so special.

How has the travel industry changed recently?

As the region’s economy is booming, many people are heading to Thailand to invest, work, and travel. This factor has elevated the travel industry to another level. In Bangkok alone, there are over 60,000 rooms which forces hotels to compete fiercely. Each hotel does their best to deliver excellent service, provide great facilities and beneficial options to customers. Bangkok is a very vibrant, incredible and high-energy city, I see endless potential for its travel industry to further grow and develop.

What makes Bangkok/Thailand such a special travel destination?

Weather, food, the variety of natural places from beaches to mountains, cheap prices and most importantly the Thai people. I fell in love with Bangkok because of the friendly people.

Why is W so special?

W is a design luxury lifestyle hotel that brings 24/7 energy to wherever it is. W offers an insider experience to customers in terms of fashion, music and design. We never stop seeking what’s new and try to bring them to our customers first.

We look forward to bringing unique experiences to our visitors.

How will W Bangkok be different from other W hotels?

W hotels are inspired by their destinations, W Bangkok included. Our W DNA is infused with local influences, mixing old and new, which you will see in the hotel’s interior design and styling elements.

What’s your favorite dining place in Bangkok?

Jojo’s at St. Regis. A great Italian restaurant with great Thai hospitality.

What Thai dish you would you recommend to visitors?

Hor mok (steamed seafood with curry paste in a banana leaf cup). Simple and simply delicious.

What do think is Bangkok’s most underrated attraction?

Asiatique. The idea is fantastic. Everyone loves evening strolls. When it is all finally done I think it will become a great place for both locals and visitors.

W Bangkok 106 North Sathorn Rd., Bangrak, 02344-4000. www.whotels.com/bangkok

SERVICED OFFICES ELITE OFFICE—With two downtown locations by the BTS, the fully equipped offices are available on flexible contracts. Business and work permit assistance is also available. Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm. www.elite-offices.com.

IW SERVICED OFFICE—IW offers customizable offices in prime Sathorn and Sukhumvit locations, complete with secretarial services and meeting room facilities. Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5:30pm. www. iwoffice.com.

OFFICE FIRST—Their Sathorn office provides serviced offices, virtual offices, meeting rooms and business support, with the additional availability of translation services. Facilities are pay-per-use and IT and telecom support is also offered. 47/F, Empire Tower, 195 South Sathorn Rd., 02-6863400. BTS Chong Nonsi. www.officefirst.net.

SERVCORP—With three prestigious locations in downtown Bangkok, this international company promises to impress your clients. Facilities and services vary. www.servcorp.net.

iSTUDIO—Thailand’s premium Apple reseller has branches in almost every major department store.

There’s also a newly-opened iServe service center at Amarin Plaza (3/F, Amarin Plaza, Ploenchit Rd., 02-652-2324 /-7. BTS Chit Lom). For more branches: www.istudio.in.th.

GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENTS

TEMP AGENCIES

THAILAND BOARD OF INVESTMENT—To encourage investment, the board offers foreign investors incentives and business support, including advice and key contacts. 555 Viphavadi Rangsit Rd., 02-553-8111. www.boi.go.th.

MANPOWER—A world leader in workforce solutions, they have a range of resources and services in the realm of HR including contract details, payroll and legal advice. 02-634-7273. www.manpower.th.com.

DEPARTMENT OF INTERNATIONAL TRADE PROMOTION—The website is in Thai, but its Thai Trade website features some key information in English. Call center: 1169. 44/100 Nonthaburi 1 Rd., 02-793-9394. www.thaitrade.com.

PRTR—One of Thailand’s top recruitment and outsourcing agencies, their range of staff services includes matching contract staff to employers on short notice. 02-716-0000. www.prtr.com.

THAI CUSTOMS DEPARTMENT—The website gives a general guideline of tax regulations pertaining to traders, businesses and individuals, but details should be verified in case of regulation changes. Call center: 1164. 1 Sunthornkosa Rd., 02-667-7100. www.customs.go.th.

SMART SEARCH—Normally specializing in executive recruitment, the relatively small agency emphasizes their personalized levels of service.

02-714-8088. www.ssrecruitment.com.

OFFICE MATERIALS B2S—You’ll find the office basics at this book, music and stationery store, which has branches in Central and Robinson department stores. Try Central Chidlom (7/F, 1027 Ploenchit Rd.). For more branches: www.b2s.co.th.

OFFICE DEPOT—With 29 branches in Bangkok, the stores at Asoke and Silom are the most convenient downtown. The international chain stocks everything from office electronics to furniture, and if you shop online, orders over B500 are delivered free of charge. Silom branch: 3/F and 9/F, United Center, 323 Silom Rd., 02-267-6262. Call center: 02-808-5555. For more branches: www. officedepot.co.th.

RELOCATION COMPANIES ALLIED PICKFORDS—One of the world’s largest moving services, they provide expert assistance with home, business and corporate relocations.

02-361-3961. www.alliedpickfords.com/th-en.

ASIAN TIGER—This well-established company offers both ad hoc and bundled services for international and domestic moves. Relocation services: 02687-7961. Moving services: 02-687-7888. www. asiantigers-mobility.com.

SANTA FE—Aside from relocation, Santa Fe handle related issues like visas, immigration and real estate. 02-742-9890-2. www.santaferelo.com.

TECH SUPPORT Pantip Plaza—A heaven for tech and IT lovers, the rather grungy-looking seven floors are dedicated to gadgets and gizmos. You’ll find countless little stalls selling computers, laptops, mobile phones, printers, mainboards and more, with many computer repair services located on the ground floor. 604/3 Petchaburi Rd., 02-250-1555.

BTS Ratchathewi. www.pantipplaza.com.

CAR RENTAL SIXT—This European company allows 24-hour pick up and return, and between its three Bangkok locations offers a choice of sedan, van, truck, sports car, convertible or SUV. Suvarnabhumi Airport: 086-909-4422. For more branches: www.sixt.com/car-rental/thailand.

HERTZ—Their fleet of Hondas and Toyotas are available at the airport and downtown, and with multiple corporate partners (like Thai Airways and ANA), you might be able to save money or collect miles with their offers. Reservation center: 02266-4666. For branches: www.hertzthailand.com.

THAI RENT A CAR—The website includes a simple key to help making choosing the right car easier and they offer personal drivers for daily or contract hire. 02-737-8888. For branches: www. thairentacar.com.

AVIS—If you’ll be driving out of town, Avis Thailand has over 30 locations around the country. Bangkok reservation center: 02-251-1131-2. For branches: www.avisthailand.com.

Documentation TRanslation services—Most translation agencies in Bangkok are located in business districts such as Silom, Sathorn, Ploenchit and Nana. Try: Chalermprakiat Center for Translation and Interpretation: Room 1308, 13/F, Boromaratchakumari Bldg., Faculty of Arts, Chulalongkorn University, Phaya Thai Rd., Pathumwan, 02-218-4635, transunit@chula.ac.th; or, International Translations Office, 22 Silom Rd. (2/F), next to BTS Sala Daeng, 02-233-7714, www.translations.co.th.

Legalization service—The Consulate Office of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs is the only authority to certify any translated documents, including birth, education and marriage certificates. Fee starts from B200 and the process takes two working days. Same-day express service is available at double the price. Open Mon-Fri 8:30am-3.30pm. 123 Chaeng Wattana Rd., Laksi, 02-981-7171. www.consular.go.th

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BANGKOK nightlife

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Al Majlis Formerly housed in a beautiful old mansion with a large garden, we were a little sad to learn that this Arabian Nights inspired bar and eatery had been forced to moved. Fortunately, the owners have managed to find a new home in Asoke that maintains the original venue’s unique charms, starting from the large front garden through to the tiki lamps, tiled floor and the Bedouin cushions and carpets. While indoors offers a more proper dining setting, the garden is filled with daybeds, beanbags and garden benches from which to enjoy the breeze along with your favorite flavor of sheesha. 68/2 Soi Julin, Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asoke), 02-664-0212/3.

MRT Petchburi. Open daily 4:30pm-midnight.

Downtown Bed Supperclub — Bangkok’s leading club, with a space-age interior, is divided into two sides— the restaurant, which offers creative food and cutting-edge performances; and the club, where beautiful people come to dance. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. Open daily 7pm-2am. www. bedsupperclub.com ZA1

The Speakeasy — The two-story space takes you back to the roaring 1920s with a décor featuring dark wood and leather. A balcony on level 24 lets you take in 180-degree views of Bangkok’s central district, or head to the al fresco rooftop.

24-25/F, Hotel Muse Bangkok, 55/555 Langsuan Rd., 02-630-4000. Open daily 6pm-1am. YN19

Beervault — This simple and sleek bar is a mecca for imported brews, boasting 48 bottled beers from 12 different countries and six draught beers.

Four Points by Sheraton Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 15, 02-309-3113. Open daily 11-1am. ZB2 Hyde & Seek — Elevated pub grub, one of Bangkok’s best cocktail menus and a décor that conjures up both Victorian drawing room style and NYC sophistication. Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-1685152-3. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am.

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Levels — Decked out with a huge LED chandelier above a circular bar and a bunch of monochrome sofas surrounding a sizeable dance floor, this cavernous recent addition to the Soi 11 strip aims for a rather swanky audio-visual clubbing experience with international DJs regularly dropping by. 6/F Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246. Open daily 9pm-3am. www. levelsclub.com ZA1

the speakeasy

Riverside Viva & Aviv — Fitting for its riverside location, this venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nautically-inspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive, well-made cocktails and pub grub. River City Complex, 23 Yota Rd., 02-639-6305. Open daily 11am-midnight. www.vivaaviv.com

ThongLor/Ekkamai Clouds — The futuristic vision is certainly striking— from the undulating ceiling, sporting anything from roses to Barbie dolls, to the acrylic seating inset with leaves. Potent cocktails from the laboratory of a bar add to the techno-ecoinspired theme. G/F, Seenspace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2365. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZB6 Iron Fairies — Like no other bar in Bangkok, it actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies. A great live band and powerful cocktails make this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-8875. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. ZB6 Mellow — Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, affluent locals, attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and delicious cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am. ZA6 WTF — A collaboration between an art curator, a hip hotelier and a photojournalist, WTF is actually a hybrid bar and exhibition space that’s incredibly popular with Bangkok’s creative expats and local hipsters. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246.

Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. www.wtfbangkok. com ZC5 december 2012 I WHERE th a i l a n d 25

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HEALTH + WELLNESS bangkok Le Spa with L’Occitane — Thailand’s first Le Spa with L’Occitane boasts a contemporary Thai style combined with an elegant French touch.

Treatments include the Golden Siamese Massage and Four Teas Ceremony. 9/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. between Soi 13-15, 02-126-9999. BTS Nana. ZB2 PaNPURI ORGANIC SPA — Hidden behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of this luxury spa.

Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1199.

Open daily 10-8pm. www.panpuri.com IM18

NEW >

I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok Hidden away on the ninth floor of longstanding hotel The Landmark Bangkok is one of Bangkok’s newest spa sanctuaries, I SPA. From the entrance a small staircase leads you to a relaxing space featuring ten treatment rooms.

The treatments offered are based on therapies from China, India, Japan and Thailand, using five choices of essential oils based on Asian flowers and herbs. Their Balinese and Thai massages are suggested for those suffering from jetlag or opt for one of the packages (90240 minutes, from B2,800) that combines a body scrub, wrap and massage. 9/F, The Landmark Bangkok, 138 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-2529444. BTS Nana. www.ispathailand.com ZC1

SPA Apex Medi Spa — Renowned beauty clinic APEX Profound Beauty has gone upscale with this total rejuvenating retreat set in Thong Lor. The spa features in-patient rooms, treatment suites, a restaurant and swimming pool. Programs range from three-hour spa treatments to seven-day weight-loss packages. 208/1-3, Thonglor Soi 8, 02-713-8331-2. Open daily 8:30am-8:30pm. ZC6 DEVERANA Spa — The impressive white lobby has an almost heavenly quality while the 14 individual spa rooms are little sanctuaries to enjoy a range of treatments from milk baths to body scrubs. Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama IV Rd., 02-636-3596. BTS Sala Daeng/MRT Silom. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.deveranaspa.com XF10 I.SAWAN — With its Tony Chi design and its classy residential cottages and treatment bungalows, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a fitness club, tennis and squash courts and a 25-meter pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com YN18 LET’S RELAX — With branches around Thailand, and a wide variety of packages and trained masseuses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-662-6935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight.

More branches: www.letsrelaxspa.com ZB3

ELEMIS SPA — The Elemis Spa is the first in SE Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the ancient Arabian sauna in the Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777.

BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am-10pm. www. stregis.com/bangkok YN18 THE ORIENTAL SPA — As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000.

Open daily 9am-10pm. www.mandarinoriental. com/bangkok/spa XJ11 SPA BOTANICA — Surrounded by lush gardens, Spa Botanica is an urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best massage options. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd, 02-2344-8900. Open daily 9am-10pm. www. sukhothai.com XG13 S MEDICAL SPA — Founded by a renowned local anti-aging physician, this award-winning spa creates beauty from within, with a selection of integrated wellness programs. 2/2 Bhakdi Bldg., Wireless Rd., 02-253-1010. BTS Ploenchit. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.smedspa.com YL20 THANN SANCTUARY SPA — Treatments using their locally-made world-class spa products, within a tranquil space bathed in soothing lights.

3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.thann. info YM18

AESTHETIC CLINICS APEX SKIN CENTER — If you’re trying to solve some skin issues, check out this well established and popular skin center for state-of-the-art treatments from Botox to micro-dermabrasion. 3/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-644-8613/-4.

BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am-9pm. More branches: www.apexskincenter.com ASTER SPRING — This international chain of skin care and health spas combines German techniques and products to provide effective facial and body treatments. The philosophy here is no-frills and no-nonsense, just good skin products that offer real results. L/F, Gaysorn, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-656-1421/2. BTS Chidlom.

PUTTHARAKSA — From non-invasive face lifts to the derma roller regeneration treatment, their aesthetic care is all about helping your body heal itself. Get further support through their anti-aging treatments. 1535 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-6336.

BTS Phrakhanong. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-9pm, Sun noon- 6pm. www.puttharaksaclinic.com

ROMRAWIN — The popular beauty clinic has now expanded to over 20 branches in Bangkok alone.

They cover everything from body treatments and weight-loss programs to acne cures and more, all using state-of-the-art equipment. 4/F, Chidlom Tower, 22 Soi Somkid, Ploenchit Rd., 02-6557625, 02-655-7818. Open daily 10am-9pm. More branches: www.romrawin.com YN19

Q&A Wellness Expert Traditional Chinese medicine specialist Ken Rosen will be resident therapist at the Oriental Spa giving special consultations and treatments through December 15. Ken graduated with a Master’s in Science of Traditional Oriental Medicine from Pacific College in New York, and has more than 20 years of experience in traditional Chinese medicine. He’s now a holistic health consultant and traditional Chinese medicine specialist at the Mandarin Oriental Dara Dhevi in Chiang Mai. How are Asian holistic approaches different from Western conventional medicine?

Any Asian holistic science, like traditional Chinese medicine, is based on nature and that is why things like acupuncture are getting results worldwide for a variety of problems. Bio-Medicine as I call it, or Western conventional medicine, is reductionist—it tends to reduce things.

It reduces man to a machine with component parts. Not to mention fast acting pharmaceuticals with their long list of serious side effects. But, with emergency situations like a broken bone, take me to the hospital first, not the acupuncturist!

What’s the key benefit of traditional Chinese medicine?

Traditional Chinese medicine views life like a garden. Health is a process of cultivating that garden. Addressing root causes of problems instead of treating only the branch. Understanding better life balance and greater all-round health are two important benefits.

What’s the most common illnesses people are facing when they come to you?

Stress. Most people seem to be suffering from nerve exhaustion or neurasthenia as it is called in Bio-Medicine. There’s a lot of stimuli out there as we click and scroll through life. The nervous system gets tightly wound, muscles tense, sleep disturbed, and then unravels as the batteries are not able to recharge. The most common expression of this global pattern is weak pain in the lower back and tenseness and pain in the shoulders.

Can you suggest some tips on how to live a healthy life?

1) Rest. When you rest you heal, mentally, physically, and spiritually. 2) Breathe deeply. Your lungs are your only conscious control you have over the beating of your heart. 3) Live in “what is” instead of wrapping your mind up in “what is not.” Enjoy the flow of life. Get out there and sing your song.

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HEALTH + WELLNESS bangkok

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Where Special | Wellness

I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok

I SPA, operator of 15 luxury Thai spas in China, has opened its first spa in

Thailand, bringing an exotic range of authentic health and beauty treatments from China, India, Indonesia, Japan and Thailand to pamper spa lovers with luxurious spa experiences.

Book now, quoting Where Thailand, and receive a 30% saving on all

treatments at I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok. The offer is valid until December 31, 2012.

I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok, Tel: 02 252 9444

Email: info@ispathailand.com, website: www.ispathailand.com

Rejuvenate your body. mind and soul at Spa@Tonson If you are looking for a spa to pamper your body, look no further. At

Spa@Tonson, we offer Unique & Authentic Massage through an array of

massage techniques that leaves you relaxed and revitalized. Double your

sensation with our Signature 4-Hands Aromatherapy. A must try for true spa lovers! Conveniently located near Central Chidlom Department Store.

Call for special promotion: 02-6587980 / 081-9544366. Location: Level 5

Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Bangkok. Email: spa.tonson@ yahoo.com Website: http://www.spatonson.com/

S Medical Spa S Medical Spa is a complete Rejuvenation center providing a one-stopservice for Optimizing your Health, Appearance and Well-being with a

combination of Spa Therapies and Medical Programs. Services rely on our unique philosophy of “Rejuvenation through Integrated Health Care” in the luxury facilities “Where pleasure can Heal”.

S Medical Spa please call 02-253-1010 Call Center: 086-972-4540 www.smedspa.com, info@smedspa.com

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ShopS+Services BANGKOK

JJ Green

Next time you visit the famous Chatuchak “JJ” Weekend Market, make sure to walk a bit further and investigate this new open-air mall located right next door. Celebrating its grand opening this month, JJ Green houses 150 air-conditioned stores on a 9-acre site retailing a variety of merchandise, ranging from fashion items and stationery to pet’s clothes and furniture. Some of our favorites are Inspire Way, which sells men’s accessories, Mix & More, a miscellaneous store where you can get cute, imported stationery, notebooks and even t-shirts and the necklaces and girly tops on offer at Belleza. Open daily 10am-8pm. MRT Chatuchak.

Downtown Amarin Plaza ­— The mall’s Greco-Roman façade actually hides some unexpected gems.

ID1 on the first floor holds an interesting collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs.

496-502 Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-4704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com YM18 Central Chidlom ­— The closest thing Bangkok has to Harrods, Central Chidlom first opened in 1973 and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. It’s packed with leading brands, like Bottega Venetta, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the impressive Food Hall on the ground floor and the views from the international food court, up on the seventh. 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th YM19 CentralWorld ­— Southeast Asia’s largest lifestyle shopping complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000-sq-meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for top brands like Topshop, Gap and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites like Singha Life and Disaya.

Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www. centralworld.co.th YM18 Erawan Bangkok ­— This mini-mall might look petite, but its three floors offer some high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including Yohji Yamamoto, Dior Homme and Lanvin. 494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com YM18

Gaysorn ­— Thailand’s leading high-end mall is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Celine) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1149.

BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com YM18 MBK Center ­— Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and at bargain prices. As a result,­the chaotic MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good. Still it’s fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the 6th floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www. mbk-center.co.th YM16 Platinum Fashion Mall ­— Platinum is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashionrelated from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even a single item is very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. www.platinumfashionmall. com YK18 Siam Paragon ­— With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like H&M and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World, Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a cinema. As well as lots of restaurants, there’s also a food court in the

basement. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamparagon.co.th YM17 Siam Center ­— One of the longest-standing shopping malls in Bangkok is due to reopen next month, after six months of renovations. The mall will remain a fashion central featuring stores by cutting-edge local designer brands as well as hot international labels. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000.

BTS Siam. www.siamcenter.co.th YM17 Siam Discovery Center ­— The sister mall of Siam Center just celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussaud’s wax museum. It also remains the place to come for Thai furniture brands. Rama 1 Rd., 02-6581000. BTS Siam. www.siamdiscoverycenter. co.th YM16

mbk

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ShopS+Services Elsewhere

Sukhumvit

MARKETS

Asiatique — This shopping center is the first to sit on the banks of the Chao Phraya River and is themed according to the city’s architecture of old. Divided into several sections, ranging from the panoramic waterfront to a 100-year old refurbished sawmill, it includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashions and intriguing souvenirs, plus offers a variety of eateries, beer gardens and wine bars. The gigantic venue is also home to the Joe Louis puppet theater and restaurant. You can catch the free ferry from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin). 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488.

The Emporium — ­ Set in the heart of the city’s upscale residential area (home to Bangkok’s largest Japanese community), The Emporium offers luxury shopping without the crowds, thanks to its tenant portfolio, which includes brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Prada, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal, Thann and Jim Thompson. There are also lots of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative & Design Center on the top floor.

622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www.emporiumthailand.com ZC4

Chatuchak Market — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is one of the world’s largest weekend markets. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections, roughly categorized by the products on offer. You can literally spend the weekend here amid the rabbit warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 1024 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home-decor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/ Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.chatuchak.org

OP Place ­— Situated in a beautiful neoclassicalstyle building close to the river, this gorgeous luxury mall oozes charm from the sweeping wooden staircase to the antique lift. The plushlycarpeted halls are home to a host of high-end boutiques offering unique and rare antiques and artifacts from across Southeast Asia, handcrafted jewelry, bespoke tailors and fine art.

The Ashwood Gallery that occupies the whole third floor is home to some particularly striking pieces. There’s also a free shuttle service to the neighboring OP Garden, which houses an art gallery, restaurants and high-end boutiques. 30/1 Soi 38, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-266-0186. Open daily 10:30am-7pm. XJ11

Terminal 21 — ­ One of Bangkok’s newest shopping complexes boasts an airport terminal-cum-international destinations theme. As you travel through the nine floors you can stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the higher floors offer a host of intriguing boutiques by Thai designers. There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21.co.th ZB3

Y

Talat Rod Fai — This alfresco night bazaar has quickly become a hot spot for vintage finds, thanks to the mix of retro fashion, décor and toys for sale and because of the laidback ambience at the ad hoc bars and cafés.

Kamphaeng Phet Rd. MRT Kamphaeng Phet.

Open Sat-Sun, 4pm-1am

Shopping Walk>

Siam

While the Siam area is best known for its long line of gleaming malls, selling the leading brand names, it also has an edgier side. Just across the street from the luxe fashion stores of Siam Paragon lies Siam Square, a small block of streets that’s been a favorite hangout for hordes of Bangkok university students since it opened in the 1960s. Slowly undertaking a gentrification, it’s still home to funky, cutting-edge boutiques, cute cafes and hip music spots. Siam Square Sois 2, 3 and 4, in the shadow of Digital Gateway IT mall, are a center for teen fashion, thanks to a mix of designers like Paa*, Mosstories, Mango Mojito and Poem. Music spots like old favorites DJ Siam and Do Re Me are often packed with teenagers there to buy the latest albums and rare items.

The newest zone called Siam Vintage (opposite Chula Book Center) sees a collection of fresh local and inter designs from various young enterpreneurs like Onion and ZM Bangkok. BTS Siam

december 2012 I WHERE TH AILAND 29

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5 Khaosan Road

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Find out the latest news on Thailand at Facebook.com/WhereThailand | Instagram @where_thailand

30 W H E R E t h a i land I december 2012

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Navigate

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GET MOVING

1. Terminal 21 B3 2. The Emporium C4

Art & Attractions

1. Kamthieng House B3 2. Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC) C4

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E

Prommit Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒžÌÍÁÁÔµÃ

J Avenue ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ਠÍÐàǹÔÇ

2

Terminal 21 ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à·ÍÁÔ¹ÍÅ 21

4

Times Square ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ä·Á Êá¤ÇÃ

3 6

Soi Sukhumvit 49 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 49

ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ âúԹÊѹ

Sukhumvit7

6

Samitivej Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒÅÊÁÔµÔàǪ

Soi Sukhumvit 39 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 39

1

1 Robinson

7

Soi Sukhumvit 4 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 4

C

Shopping

29

Soi Sukhumvit 20 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 20

6 13

Soi Sukhumvit 23 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 23

18

Soi Sukhumvit 19 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 19

1

Soi Sukhumvit 15 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 15

Soi Sukhumvit 13 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 13 2

5, 12

¹Ò¹Ò

B

4

1. Apex Medi Spa C6 2. Apex Skin Center C4 3. Dermaster A7 4. I SPA at Landmark C1 5. Oasis Spa C5 6. Le Spa B2 7. Let’s Relax B3

9

Nana TO MO CHIT STATION

3

TO BANG SUE STATION

Health & Wellness

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

2

1. BeerVault B2 2. Bed Supperclub A1 3. Clouds B6 4. Fat Gutz B6 5. Levels B1 6. Iron Fairies B6 7. Manhattan Bar B1 8. Mellow A6 9. Q Bar A1 10. Wine Republic B5 11. WTF C5 12. W XYZ A1

27

«ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 11

A

These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river.

The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located

by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi.

Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river.

1

Soi 11

Bumrungrad Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒÅ ºÓÃاÃÒÉ®Ã

Soi Sukhumvit 3 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 3

3

EXPRESS RIVER Boats—

Z

Nightlife

1. 11 Gallery B1 2. 4 Garcons B6 3. Above Eleven A1 4. Bacco C6 5. Bo.Lan D5 6. Bonjour C6 7. Harvey B6 8. Hazara B6 9. Indus E5 10. Isao C4 11. Khun Churn D7 12. Khua Kling Paksod C6 13. L’Appart B2 14. Mr. Jones’ Orphanage B6 15. Near Equal C5 16. Phuket Town C6 17. Quince C5 18. Rosabieng B1 19. Rossini’s C2 20. Ruen Mallika E4 21. Seafood Bar D3 22. Smith C5 23. Soul Food Mahanakorn C6 24. Supanniga Eating Room C6 25. Taling Pling D5 26. Thai Lao Yeh C5 27. The Local A3 28. Water Library B6 29. Xuan Mai A6

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only one canal still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Ban Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the

Dining

Soi Sukhumvit 55 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 55

CANAL BOATS­—While Bangkok

heart of the Old Town, stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically-challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal (klong) water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.

Soi Sukhumvit 40 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 40

AIRPORT LINk—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (tenminute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 15-20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B90 one-way and B150 roundtrip for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.

Y

Navigate

7

8

9

Chamchuri Square ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ

3

10

TO NATIONAL STADIUM STATION

Si Lom ÊÕÅÁ

Chulalongkorn Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒŨؿÒŧ¡Ã³

11 Lumpini Park ÊǹÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

12

13

Lumphini ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

Rama 4 Rd. 2

¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 4

Sala Daeng

F

Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§

ÈÒÅÒá´§

Silom Soi 2

1 Silom Complex

Thaniya Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ

Soi Convent «Í¤͹áǹµ 4

ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ

2

àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ 3

3

Surasak ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

x Dining

P

4

OP Place

22

1. Celadon G13 2. D’Sens F10 3. Dine in the Dark H13 4. Eat Me G11 5. Le Normandie J11 6. Nahm,8Glow G13 7. Niu’s I10 Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃس 8. Ruen Urai G8 9. Scarlett H10 10. Somtum Der F11

1. OP Place J9

Art & Attractions

8

Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

R

Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã TO WONGWIAN YAI STATION

Shopping TO BEARING STATION

ÊоҹµÒ¡ÊÔ¹

Oriental Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕ¹àµÅ

23

X

1. Gossip Gallery I10 2. H Gallery H11 3. Kathmandu Photo Gallery I11 Emporium 4. Serindia GalleryIndiaJ11 ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ÍÔ¹à´Õ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ 5. Silom Galleria I10

TUK-TUKs— Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of 24 25

getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo Thaof Phrachan Pier Tha Tien Pieropportunities. However, there is no guarantee ·‹Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã ·‹ÒàµÕ¹ beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard and be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip 1 to a tailor or gem store.

TAXIS—

2

In Bangkok 9 taxis are readily avail1 metered 1 able and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 2

Wat Po ÇѴ⾸Ô์

1. Body Tune G10 2. Devarana Spa F10 3. Divana Virtue Spa I12 4. Health Land G13 Ratchawong Pier Q ÃҪǧ¤ 5.·‹ÒSo SPA F12 6. Spa Botanica G13 7. The Oriental Spa J11

µ

Saphan Taksin

7

Health & Wellness

Chit

Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡Ãا

5

Memorial Bridge Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊоҹ¾Ø·¸

6

Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢

I

City Viva

St. Louis Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒÅૹµ ËÅØÂÊ

Soi Silom 1 9 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 1 5

21

9

4

N

J

1

3

Pan Rd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹

7

STATIO

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

rminal ÁÑÂ

6

Chong Nonsi 9

Ekkamai

EARIN G

1

Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์

H

TO B

6

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ã㵌

G

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ

8

¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

Si Lom Rd.

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

Silom Soi 4

TO BANG SUE STATION

5

10

Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ãà˹×Í

2

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

11

silom14

Wat Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ

for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication.

Taxis sometimes to negotiate a price. Make sure Wat try Rajapardit ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃдÔÉ° to only pay the metered price.

The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an 26 27 extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station 28 Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the Wang Lang Pier âç¾ÂÒºÒÅÈÔÃÔÃÒª ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇѧËÅѧ » ÂÁËÒÃÒª¡ÒÃس main Central Business District 6before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station.

There are interchange stations at Sukhumvit (MRT) /Asok (BTS) and Silom (MRT)/Sala Daeng (BTS).

4

Fares are B15-B40 for both trains. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or3 tickets that cover a speciPhra Athit Pier fied number of trips. For more information, ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍҷԵ go to www.bts.co.th and www.bangkokmetro.co.th. Note Wat Chana Songkram that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems. ÇÑ´ª¹Ðʧ¤ÃÒÁ

skytrain/underground—The Wat Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·Ñȹ

Bangkok Skytrain (BTS) stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city.

There are two main lines: the Silom Line, which runs from across the river in Wongwian Yai to National Stadium; and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit The Old Siam Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station China World ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ䫹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´ B urap a Rd between the two lines. . ¶¹ ¹ºÙþ

Ò

32 W H E R E t h a i land I december 2012 S

1

Police Station ʶҹյÓÃǨ

Democracy Monument ͹ØÊÒÇÃÕ »ÃЪҸԻäµÂ

5

Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò

7

Wat Saket ÇÑ´ÊÃÐࡵØ

NAVIGATE_Dec_2012_NEWS.indd 32

11/22/12 7:08 PM

7

8

9

Chamchuri Square ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ

3

10

ÊÕÅÁ

Chulalongkorn Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒŨؿÒŧ¡Ã³

12

13 ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 4

2

Sala Daeng

Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§

ÈÒÅÒá´§

Silom Soi 2

1 Silom Complex

Thaniya Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ

Soi common Convent «Í¤͹áǹµ ATMS—ATMs are very in Bangkok and

àÍ¡ÁÑ TO B

STATIO

N

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

EARIN G

Navigate 1

Y

6

¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

Si Lom Rd.

(Sukhumvit Soi 1-3, 402-667-1000, emergency 028 02-2514-173, Austria 02-287-3970, 667-2999), Bangkok Hospital (Soi Soonvijai, PetchaAustralia buri Rd., 02-310-3000), BNH Hospital (Convent Rd., Belgium 02-679-5465, Brazil 02-679-8567, Bulgaria G 02-686-2700), Samitivej Sukhumvit (Sukhumvit 49, 02-391-6180, Cambodia 02-636-0540, China 02banking hours—Banking hours are gener- 02-711-8181), Siriraj SiPH (Phrannok Rd., 1474).

245-7043, Czech Republic 02-255-3027, Denmark Narathiwat Ratchanakharin ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔFriday ÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์ ally from 8:30am to 3:30pm, MondayRd. through 02-213-2021, Egypt 02-262-0236, Finland 02-256except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in 9306, France 02-266-8250, Ghana 02-641-5214, malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

Chong Nonsi Germany 02-287-9000, Greece 02-679-1462, Dining ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ Iceland 02-237-8010, India 02-258-0300, Indonesia 9 vat refunds­—Visitors to Thailand who 1. Supatra Riverside P26 2 City Viva 2. The Deck Q233 02-252-3135, Iran 02-259-0611, Ireland 02-223make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from H 0876, Israel 02-204-9200, Italy 02-252-6151, Health & Wellness stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” St. Louis Hospital Korea (South) 02-247-7537, Laos 02-539-6667, 1. Wat Po Q24 âç¾ÂÒºÒÅૹµ ËÅØÂÊ sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ Malaysian 02-679-2190, Mexico 02-285-0815, 3 3 the item. On the day you purchase the item present Art & Attractions Morocco 02-653-2444, Myanmar 02-233-2237, 1. Grand Palace Q25 your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store Pan Rd. ¶¹¹»˜ œ¹ 7 Nepal 02-391-7240, Netherlands 02-254-7701, 2. Museum Siam Q23 to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists Surasak 3. National Gallery ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ Q27 Norway 02-302-6415, New Zealand 02-254-2530, form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form.

Soi Silom 1 9 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 4.

National Museum Q27 Nigeria 02-391-5197, Pakistan 02-253-0288, Peru 1 5 Then at the airport, before you check in present your 5. Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall S26 02-260-6243, Philippines 02-259-0139, Portugal Surasak Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃofficers ÈÑ¡´Ô์ ¡¢ 6. Royal Barge Museum P27 goods and the refund form to Customs at the I 02-234-7435, Russia 02-268-1169, Saudi Arabia 7. The Queen’s Gallery S27 refund desk (its a clearly sign posted counter at all 8. Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) P22 02-639-2999, Switzerland 02-253-0156, Singapore the international Thai airports). Refund amounts not 9. Wat Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald 02-286-2111, Spain 02-252-6112, Sri-Lanka 02-331Charoen Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔ Þ¡Ãا(Thai exceeding 30,000 baht, willKrung be made in cash Buddha) Saphan Q25 Taksin 5 ÊоҹµÒ¡ÊÔ¹ 6384, Sweden 02-302-0360, Taiwan 02-670-0220, baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card Shopping Tunisia 02-692-5071, Turkey 02-274-7262, United 7 4 account. Refund amounts exceeding 30,000 baht, 1. SUPPORT Foundation Shop P25 OP Place Oriental Pier Arab Emirates 02-639-9820, United Kingdom 02Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕ¹àµÅ will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã 305-8333, United States of America 02-205-4000, card account.

J TO WONGWIAN YAI STATION Syria 02-254-7961, Vietnam 02-251-5838

W

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ã㵌

Ekkamai

6

Hospitals­—Bumrungrad International,

can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located 4 outside of 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

major EMBASSIES & Silom Soi 4 CONSULATES­—Argentina 02-259-0401,

TO BANG SUE STATION

5

10

Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ãà˹×Í

2

F

11

14

Lumphini

Rama 4 Rd. TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

erminal ¡ÁÑÂ

21

22

23

24

25

8 P

1 Tha Phrachan Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã

Tha Tien Pier ·‹ÒàµÕ¹

Rattanakosin28

26

27

Wang Lang Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇѧËÅѧ

Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) âç¾ÂÒºÒÅÈÔÃÔÃÒª » ÂÁËÒÃÒª¡ÒÃسÂ

6

1

Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃس

2

1

1 Memorial Bridge Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊоҹ¾Ø·¸

2

9

4

Wat Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ

Wat Po ÇѴ⾸Ô์

3 6

Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃҪǧ¤

µ

Phra Athit Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

Wat Chana Songkram ÇÑ´ª¹Ðʧ¤ÃÒÁ

Wat Rajapardit ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃдÔÉ°

Q

Chit

Wat Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·Ñȹ

Police Station ʶҹյÓÃǨ

TO BEARING STATION

8 1 9

R

Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

2

11 Lumpini Park ÊǹÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

TO NATIONAL STADIUM STATION

Si Lom

India Emporium ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ÍÔ¹à´Õ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ

The Old Siam Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ China World ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ䫹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´

Democracy Monument

Bura

pa R

͹ØÊÒÇÃÕ »ÃЪҸԻäµÂ

d. ¶¹

¹ºÙþ

Ò

5

Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò

S

7

Wat Saket ÇÑ´ÊÃÐࡵØ

T

w december 2012 I WHERE th a i l a n d 33

NAVIGATE_Dec_2012_NEWS.indd 33

11/22/12 7:08 PM

Benchakitti Park ÊǹÊÒ¸ÒóàºÞ¨¡ÔµµÔ

E

Soi Sukhumvit 38

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

Queen Sirikit National Convention Center Èٹ »ÃЪØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Navigate

ʶҹբ¹Ê‹§àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

Soi Sukhumvit 40 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

Y

9

Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢Ø

20

Soi Sukhumvit 26 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

Soi Sukhumvit 24 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁ

Soi

Soi

Soi Sukhum

D

25

I

J

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

TO MO CHIT STATION

15

16

17

18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ

19

21 SIam

20

Ratchathewi Platinum Mall á¾ÅµµÔ¹ÑÁ ÁÍÅÅ

7

14

L

1,4,7

4 2

5

15 Siam Discovery ÊÂÒÁ´ÔʤѿàÇÍÃÕ่

Siam Center ÊÂÒÁà«็¹àµÍÃ

Siam Paragon ÊÂÒÁ¾ÒÃҡ͹

6

Central World à«็¹·ÃÑÅàÇÔà Ŵ

Wat Patum Wanaram ÇÑ´»·ØÁǹÒÃÒÁ

Gaysorn ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒà¡ÉÃ

5

Chit Lom ªÔ´ÅÁ

8 P

6

Phloen Chit à¾ÅÔ¹¨Ôµ

Rama 1 Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 1

Digital Gateway ´Ô¨ÔµÍÅà¡็µàÇÂ

Royal Thai Police Êӹѡ§Ò¹µÓÃǨáË‹§ªÒµÔ

General Police Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒŵÓÃǨ

Amarin Plaza Erawan Bangkok ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒÍÑÁÃÔ¹·Ã ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒàÍÃÒÇѹ

3

y

Henri Dunant Rd. ¶¹¹ ÍѧÃÕ´Ù¹Ñǵ

N

Phaya Thai Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÞÒä·

13 16

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

Nightlife

1. Hyde & Seek M21 2. The Speakeasy M21 3. The St Regis Bar N18

Health & Wellness 1. Aster Spring M18 2. Elemis Spa N18 3. i.Sawan N18 4. Panpuri Spa M18 5. Romrawin N19 6. S Medical Spa L20

3

Ratchadamri

1 12

5 11 2

1

10

9

1

R

ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

S 4

T

TO WONGWIAN STATION

Y 1. KiDara N21 2. Elements M21 3. Erawan Tea Room N18 4. Gaggan O19 5. Gianni Ristorante N19 6. Grossi Trattoria M19 7. Jim Thompson Restaurant & Bar L15 8. La Monita Taqueria M21 9. Le Beaulieu N21 10. Mandopop N20 11. Medici N19 12. Reflexions N21 13. Shintaro N18 14. Sra Bua L17 15. Zense N19 16. Zuma N18

2

8

Sarasin Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒÃÊÔ¹

O

Dining

3

Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ

ÊÂÒÁ

MBK ÁÒºØÞ¤Ãͧ

Soi Tonson «Í µŒ¹Ê¹

M

2 Soi Lang Suan «Í ËÅѧÊǹ

ʹÒÁ¡ÕÌÒáË‹§ªÒµÔ

TO BEARING STATION

Siam

National Stadium

Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃҪǧ¤

Q

Central Chidlom ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à«็¹·ÃÑŪԴÅÁ

7. Thann Sanctuary Spa M18

Shopping

1. Amarin Plaza M18 2. Central Chidlom M19 3. CentralWorld M18 4. Erawan Bangkok M18 5. Gaysorn M18 6. MBK Center M16 7. Pantip Plaza K17 8. Platinum Fashion Mall K18 9. Siam Center/Siam Discovery Center M16 10. Siam Paragon M17

Essential Numbers Emergency Services (Fire Brigade, Police) 191 Airport Rail Link 02-308-5600. http://airportraillink.railway.co.th

Bangkok Metro (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6ammidnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th Chao Phraya Express Boat Call Center 02-623-60013 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com

Bangkok Taxi Call Center 1681 / 1661

Suvanbhumi International Airport 1722/02-1321888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com

Bangkok Mass Transit System (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th

Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) – 1672. www.tourismthailand.org

BTS Tourist Information Center : 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th

Tourist Police 24 hour call center 1155

Art & Attractions

1. 100 Tonson Gallery N20 2. Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) M16 3. Jim Thompson Art Center & House L1 5 4. Madame Tussauds M16 5. Siam Ocean World M17 6. Sombat Permpoon Gallery L21

34 W H E R E t h a i land I december 2012

NAVIGATE_Dec_2012_NEWS.indd 34

Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃس

Memorial Brid ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊо

6

Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

3

Chit Lom Rd. ¶¹¹ªÔ´ÅÁ

Ratchadamri Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

K

Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ

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21 Things we LOve about Thailand

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!4 1 Visiting the home of secret agent and silk tycoon Jim Thompson (6 Soi Kasemsan 2, 02-216-7368), a complex of gorgeous Thai teak pavilions packed with Asian antiques.

2 Discovering Michelin-Star-worthy Thai dishes with a molecular twist at Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin (Siam Kempinski Hotel, Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000).

3 Taking a bicycle trip around the floating markets, lush plantations and crumbling temples of Bang Krajao (Spice Roads, www.spiceroads.com).

4 Riding a long-tail boat to Freedom Beach, the wonderfully inaccessible (and peaceful) beach in Phuket.

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from Thailand’s easternmost point at Pha Them in Ubon Ratchathani.

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6 Enjoying a relaxing four-hand massage at Spa@Tonson (www. spatonson.com).

!1 Browsing the quirky stalls

!7 Sitting ringside for a Thai

filled with authentic retro items at Talat Rod Fai night market (MRT Kamphaeng Phet).

boxing match at Lumpini Stadium (Rama IV Rd., MRT Lumpini, www. muaythailumpini.com).

!2 Traversing the famous bridge and

!8 Playing 18 holes on one of the

drinking in the memories along the River Kwai in Kanchanaburi.

beautiful and challenging courses at Santiburi Country Club in Samui (www.santiburi.com).

7 Walking Phuket Town’s heritage trail and experiencing the unique Baba-Nyonya architecture.

8 Catching a glimpse of what Bangkok used to be like with a klong tour around the old canals (klongs) of Nonthaburi from Saphan Taksin Pier.

9 Getting up close to a gentle giant with a day visit to the Elephant Nature Foundation (www. elephantnaturefoundation.org) just outside Chiang Mai. !0 Learning about the history of

5 Being the first to see the sunrise

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modern Thailand with a visit to the interactive exhibitions at Museum Siam (www.museumofsiamproject. com) in Bangkok.

!3 Waking up early to experience the floral delights and organized chaos of Pak Klong Talad flower market.

!9 Island hopping while admiring the stunning limestone karsts that dominate the Krabi coastline.

!4 Dining on fresh, catch-of-the-day seafood at beachfront restaurants on Arunothai Beach in Chumphon.

@0 Drinking in the cityscape view

!5 Escaping the stresses of modern

from the al fresco bar of Park Society (Sofitel So Bangkok, www.sofitel. com).

living at one of Bangkok’s meditation centers (try www.bia.or.th).

@1 Exploring the rich Lanna culture

!6 Discovering the natural delights of

and amazing ancient temples on the charming streets of Chiang Mai.

Phu Kradueng National Park in Loei.

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december 2012 I WHERE th a i l a n d 35

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11/20/12 7:42 PM