Where® Thailand February 2013

Thailand

PLUS

f e b ru a r y 2 0 13 the complete guide to go ®

®

Sweet Spots Top dining venues to celebrate Valentine’s

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contents where

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l THAILAND l FEBRUARY 2013

The Guide

Bangkok

17 arts+Culture The best new exhibitions from funky Thai art to surreal masterpeices

19 dining Comfort food, traditional Thai and Japanese are represented at three new eateries

23 nightlife The new bar from long-standing nightclub Q Bar offers a distinctly Gallic vibe

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24 Health+Wellness Take your pick from a number of romanceinducing treatments this month

Features

26 SHOPS+Services

05 l THE Food of love

Discover the best of young Thai design at an exciting new store

Our selection of the most romantic spots for a Valentine's dinner date

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28 Business Traveler Useful listings to support all of your potential business needs

07 l Country retreat From balloon rides to blooms,

29 Maps

discover the best of Khao Yai

Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin

Escapes

also inside

12 travel News

4 Hot dates

The latest deals, promotions

12 Managing Editor/Publisher Nick Measures Editor Top Koaysomboon General Manager James Fuss Managing Editor Grégoire Glachant Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapong

16 hot stuff

and events around the Kingdom

29 navigate 35 21 things we love

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

Marketing Manager Arunee Wilson Marketing Executive Natta Yantasri Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant

MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

Contributors Sol Lorenzo Benigno, Dominic Hanratty Cover by Monruedee Jansuttipan

Mvp | National Sales Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.

Com

Mvp | Cartography And Circulation General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Morris Comunications Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris Iii President William S. Morris Iv

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/WhereThailand @where_thailand

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

Mvp | Creative Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

Mvp | Technology & Manufacturing Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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Where hot dates

FEBRUARY 5, 18

Luna Sea and Paramore

FEBRUARY 10-MARCH 10

Hanuman Charn Samorn Khon is the highest form of Thai classical theatre, combining complex choreography and sophisticated, hand-embroidered costumes inherited from the royal courts. Most khon performances are based on chapters of the Ramakien (the Thai version of the Sanskrit epic the Ramayana, famous for the chapter where Rama’s queen is abducted by a rival king). This production recounts the chapter “Hanuman Charn Samorn,” which focuses on the life of the swift and loyal white monkey who is the leader of Rama’s army in the battle with the demon king. Tickets B60-100. 2pm at The National Theatre, Na Phralan Rd., 02-224-1342.

EVERY SUNDAY until February 10

Concert in the Park The annual Sunday afternoon al fresco concerts return for their 20th year, with the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra playing classical pieces and popular favorites from movies and musicals right in the heart of the city’s main park. Featuring different guest vocalists every week, the early evening affairs are the perfect excuse to enjoy a late afternoon picnic, though do note alcohol is not officially allowed in the park. Free. From 5:30pm. Sala Bhirom Bhakdi, Lumphini Park, 02255-6617/8. BTS Sala Daeng/MRT Silom. www. bangkoksymphony.org

FEBRUARY 1-3

Thailand International Jazz Conference 2013 Thailand’s major annual jazz music conference showcases both local and international jazz performers. The daily schedule is divided into daytime workshops covering topics ranging from solo improvisation, show promoting and the recording process, and evening performances from the likes of Silpakorn University’s Jazz Orchestra, Infinity, Sunny Trio & The Vox and the Kenny Werner Trio. Tickets are B500 per concert or B2,000 for a three-day pass. At Mahidol University (Salaya Campus), Buddha Monthon Sai 4, 02-800-2525.

Legendary Japanese rock band Luna Sea, who first hit the big time way back in 1986, will be treating their Bangkok fans to a concert as part of a mega world tour to celebrate their reunion two years ago. The End of Dream Tour will see them perform their classic hits like “Storm” and “Gravity,” as well as latest single “The End of Dream,” released in December. Tickets are B1,000-4,500, at Impact Arena Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd., 02-833-4455. A week later, it’s your chance to catch more pop-rock, this time from Tennessee band Paramore, led by the flame-haired frontwoman Hayley Williams.

They’ll be performing hits from their self-titled fourth album as well as “Decode,” the Platinum selling single from the Twilight film soundtrack at Centerpoint Studio, 11, Sukhumvit Soi 105, BTS Bangna. Tickets are B1,800-2,500 at www. thaiticketmajor.com.

MARCH 6

Santana The Sentient Tour Early next month sees the return to Bangkok of one of the world’s most iconic guitarists, the 10-time Grammy Award winner, Carlos Santana.

He’ll be playing legendary singles like “Smooth,” “Supernatural” and “The Game of Love” from throughout his illustrious career. He will also be joined on-stage by the massively popular Thai country-rock band Carabao, who have enjoyed over 30 years at the forefront of Thailand’s rock scene. At IMPACT Arena Muang Thong Thani, 99, Popular Rd. Tickets are B1,000-5,000, available from www.thaiticketmajor.com.

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feature Where Y

Food for the Heart

The best romantic dining venues in Bangkok in celebration of Valentine’s Day.

ELEMENTS

Tastefully Thai

Enjoy authentic and exciting local dishes served up in these charismatic venues.

Bo.Lan

Issaya Siamese Club

Owners, head chefs and partners Bo and Dylan, have brought what they learnt working at David Thompson’s former Michelin-star Thai restaurant, Nahm, in the UK, back to Thailand. As such Bo.Lan serves authentic Thai dishes, most of which are derived from ancient recipes, presented in a contemporary style. Situated in an old home, the decor makes generous use of unadorned wood and the occasional Thai artifact, while the dim lighting and ceiling made of baskets, make it a very romantic spot. They do offer a la carte but you’re better off trying their set option, the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes quarterly to reflect the seasonal produce bought fresh from the market daily.

Celebrity chef Ian Kittichai tastefully revamped this charming old two-story mansion set in a lush garden, with a blend of vintage style and vibrant colors. It makes for a delightful spot to sample the chef’s menu of local classics made with inventive twists and using the best ingredients—some straight from his own organic garden. Try the decadently sticky and sweet chiliglazed baby back ribs (kradook moo ob) or the spicy and refreshing yum hua plee, an elegant pillar of crisp heart of palm and bamboo flower salad. Just make sure you and your date save space for Kittichai’s amazing reinterpretations of tradtional Thai desserts, they are all great.

42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962. Open Tue-Sun 6:30-11pm.

BO.LAN

4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chuaphloeng Rd., 02672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 6pm-midnight.

ISSAYA

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Where feature Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin While we admit Sra Bua can be a little hard on the wallet, we’d argue that it’s well worth the experience. The sister restaurant of Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen, the world’s only Michelin-star restaurant doing exclusively Thai food, is headed by Chef de Cuisine Morten Nielson who uses modern techniques while preserving authentic Thai flavors. Its palatial décor, shimmering lights and Thai touches, like miniature rice fields and a lotus pond (sra bua), give the space an opulent and alluring ambience while dishes like the frozen red curry with lobster and lychee and the gaeng kiaw wan (served as a plant pot of green curry mousse with fresh carrots) are truly wow worthy.

Siam Kempinski, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02162-9000. www.kempinski.com. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10:30pm. BTS Siam.

sra bua

Blue Elephant The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion, formerly the headquarters of the Thai-Chinese Chamber of Commerce, and offers a classic interior completed by dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts.

Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine.

During Valentine’s, Steppe prepares a six-course set (B2,300/person) featuring a variety of creative, romance-inspired Thai dishes like grilled chicken and humming bird flower salad and love-drunken prawns.

233 South Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. BTS Surasak. Open daily 11:30am-02:30pm, 06:30–10:30pm. BTS Surasak.

blue elephant

signor sassi

High-Rise-Dining

Add a touch of stargazing romance to your meal with these rooftop venues.

Signor Sassi Founded in 1984 in swanky Knightsbridge, London, and now also found in Kuwait and Lebanon, this is the restaurant’s third global branch. The food is resolutely Italian, covering the classics from pasta to antipasti, while the decor contains showy touches like the Venetian carnival masks and elegant tableware. Impeccable wait staff and an impressive wine list, plus the spacious 37th floor outdoor terrace, make this an ideal spot for a romantic dinner this month.

37/F, Anantara Bangkok Sathorn, Narathiwas Rd., Bangkok, 02-210-9011. Open daily 12pm11pm. BTS Chong Nonsi.

park society

Park Society The 29th floor of the super trendy Sofitel So Bangkok offers up one of Bangkok’s swankiest wining and dining venues. The place is divided into two areas: an opulent dining room, finished with mirrors, dark hues and gold accents, serving up an impressive menu of international cuisine, and an alfresco rooftop space complete with soaring columns where you can enjoy killer cocktails, lounge tunes and the striking view of Lumphini Park and beyond. For an even more intimate night there’s also a small mezzanine one level further up called Hi-So Cabana (B500 entrance fee with one free drink).

29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000. Open daily 5pm-1am. MRT Lumphini.

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feature Where Y Elements

scarlett

Set on the 24th floor of luxury Japanese hotel The Okura Prestige, Elements is led by French chef de cuisine Cyril Cocconi who draws inspiration from his time working with super-chef Joel Robuchon.

Amid a decor inspired by nature’s five elements, Cocconi prepares “modern logical cuisine,” combining modern culinary techniques and imported seasonal produce. Its balcony offers a breathtaking view of Bangkok’s downtown.

24/F, The Okura Prestige, Ploenchit Rd., 02-6879000. Open daily 6-11pm. BTS Phloen Chit.

Scarlett This 37th-floor wine bar includes a breezy outdoor terrace, which packs serious wow power thanks to its city skyline view. An extensive and pretty affordable wine list, the industrial-bistro decor, DJs at the weekend and a menu of classic dishes and tapas options make this a popular spot for a fun and flirty date night. elements

Valentine’s Day Deals (Valid Feb 14 only, unless stated) Aloft B1,999 per person for a romantic four-course dinner set with dishes like smoked trout with rose petal salad and grilled lamb racks with crusty celeriac, plus free flow wine. 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-7000. BTS Nana

Anantara Sathorn B3,000 per couple for a five-course dinner set by the pool. Or opt for the B5,000 seven-course dinner on top of the hotel. 36 NarathiwatRatchanakarin Rd., 02-210-9000.

Anantara Riverside B4,499 per couple for the Manohra Dining Cruise. B4,499 per couple for a five-course dining menu at Trader Vic’s. B3,499 for the five-course Italian set menu at Brio. B3,499 for international buffet dinner at the Riverside Terrace. 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-4760022. Free ferry from Sathorn Pier.

37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 02-238-1991. Open daily 6pm-1am.

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Where feature Valentine’s Day Deals (Valid Feb 14 only, unless stated) Conrad Bangkok B2,900 for four-course dinner with two complimentary glasses of sparkling wine at City Terrace. B1,300 for chocolate buffet at Diplomat Bar. B2,900 for international buffet at Cafe@2. Prices are per couple. 87 Wireless Rd., 02- 690-9999. BTS Phloen Chit.

The Okura Prestige

ZUMA

B9,000 for a five-course dinner per couple with a complimentary bottle of pink sparkling wine and a live jazz band. Valid Feb 14-16. 57 Wireless Rd. 02-687-9000. BTS Phloen Chit

The Landmark Bangkok water library

Gaggan

Gaggan

Wow Factor

Three places set to impress with their modern/fusion food and striking decor

Water Library The perfect spot for special occasions, this has the added appeal of being very exclusive, with a maximum of just ten diners per night able to enjoy their exciting 12 course degustation menu. Dinner starts at 7:30pm on the dot but we recommend getting there early to enjoy a few well-mixed cocktails in the understated but very sexy bar and outdoor terrace downstairs. Then head up to the minimal but cozy dining room to enjoy the experience of having a team of chefs prepare the very modern looking dishes right in front of you, utilising the finest global ingredients.

The Grass Thonglor 12, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02714-9292/-3. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am.

We can guarantee you’ve never had Indian food like this before. Chef Gaggan Anand did a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, and developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and wow-worthy construction. Expect foaming, sous-vide, dehydrating and more alongside your traditional curries. Splurge on the degustation menu and put yourself in the chef’s able hands. Even better, the magic happens in an enchanting white wood house staffed by flirtatious and well-informed staff.

68/1 Soi Lang Suan, 02-652-1700. Open daily 6-11pm.

Zuma Spot the hip, the rich and the beautiful at Zuma, whose high-end hotel surroundings, generous proportions and stunning décor should impress even the most hardened gourmand. Its granite, bamboo, reflective walls, timber, and glass provide a backdrop that’s warm, luxurious and exotic. The food is Japanese fine dining with modern flair like the signature dynamite spider maki roll or suzuki no osashimi (sliced sea bass with yuzu, truffle oil and salmon roe).

B12,000 for a five-course set menu in the Rib Room and Bar. Or dine on a three-course a la carte menu for B3,900 per person. 38 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-254-0404. BTS Nana.

Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit B7,000 per couple for a five-course menu plus cocktail at Rossini’s Italian Restaurant. B1,600 for wine tasting at BarSu. B4,100 per couple for a four-course sharing menu at the Sala.

Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8888. BTS Asok.

Grand Millenium Sukhumvit B1,999 gets you a five-course dinner and a glass of sparkling wine at Tapas Y Vino Spanish restaurant, accompanied by Spanish guitarist Vincent Chavez. 30 Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-204-4158. MRT Asok.

Radisson Suites Bangkok B3,200 per couple for a three-course set menu and a bottle of wine at Mauve restaurant. 23/2-3 Sukhumvit 13, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-645-4892. BTS Nana.

Sofitel So Bangkok B10,000 per couple for a five-course set menu at Park Society Restaurant. Or B7,000 per couple for a four-course menu at The Water Club. 2 North Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000.

W Bangkok B4,200 per couple for a four-course set menu with bottle of red or white wine and glass of sparkling wine. 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-3444000. BTS Chong Nonsi

G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02252-4707. BTS Ratchadamri. Open Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6-11pm.

barsu

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feature Where Y Riverside

The Chao Phraya River acts as the scenic backdrop at these intimate eateries.

Babble & Rum The main restaurant (1/F) and bar (2/F) of the newly opened riverside hotel Riva Surya next to Phra Arthit Pier is clad in a contemporary French cafe decor, finished with dark woods, mirrors and leather couches. An outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area make it the perfect spot for a chill night out. The menu features Thai and inter comfort food complemented by a range of signature cocktails like the candy flavored Jelly Riva (vodka, melon syrup, lime juice on top of jelly).

bAbblE & RUM

chon

1-2/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Arthit Rd., 02633-5000. Open daily 6:30am-1am. www. rivasurya.com

The Deck Few restaurants can boast a spectacle as inspiring as the brightly lit Wat Arun directly across the river from your table. This charming mostly outdoor venue certainly can, and the atmosphere is definitely what makes the Deck such a delight. Fortunately, the menu of international and Thai dishes is no after-thought, though. Get there early to ensure you get one of the best seats out on the outdoor terrace to watch the sun set behind the iconic temple.

Arun Residence, 36-38 Soi Pratu Nokyung, Maharat Rd., 02-221-9158. Open Mon-Thu 8am-10pm, Fri-Sun 8am-11pm.

Chon Overlooking the river, Chon is the signature Thai restaurant of one of Bangkok’s newest riverside hotels, The Siam. Though the hotel boasts an art deco theme, Chon is set in a beautiful Thai teak house brought here from Ayutthaya and painted black, completed with an impressive array of antiques and collectables belonging to the owner. To match the classic decor, Executive Chef Blair Mathieson serves up authentic Thai recipes.

The Siam Hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd., 02206-6999. Open daily noon-10:30pm, reservation only.

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Where around thailand

dasada

Country Romance

VIETNAM

Essentials

MYANMAR

Getting there

LAOS

Head north on Phahonyothin Rd. and turn right onto Mitraphap Rd. at Saraburi. You can get to Khao Yai through the smaller, yet closer, Pansuek-Kudkla Rd. next to Dairy Home Restaurant, and the main Thanarat Rd. You really need a car to get around, try Sixt (www.sixt.co.th) or Thai Rent a Car (www.thairentacar.com).

Celebrate the month of love by escaping to the verdant retreat of Khao Yai. By Monruedee Jansuttipan, photos by Nut Onaree KHAO YAI

Where to sleep

Kirimaya ballooning adventure

Situated just a two-hour drive from Bangkok, Khao Yai (big mountain) and its national park, has long been a popular weekend destination for Bangkokians thanks to its fresh air and natural beauty, but this February sees a distinctly artistic and romantic leaning to things to see and do in the area.

Bangkok

Palio Inn (044-365-905, 044-297-731, palioinn@palio-khaoyai.com) features 12 compact guestrooms decked out in an Italian countryside theme and is located Cambodia right in the middle of the bustling Palio shopping center. From B2,500/room.

Hot Air Romance

Sea of Flowers

High-end retreat Kirimaya Resort and Spa (1/3 Moo 6 Thanarat Rd., Moo Si, Pakchong 02-257-0455-7, 044-426000, www.kirimaya.com) are offering a unique perspective on the area through the Kirimaya Ballooning Adventure.

The daily flights, which last around 45 minutes and run until the end of February, provide picturesque views of Khao Yai’s mountainous terrain dotted with chateaus and wineries—made all the more stunning at sunrise. Once you land back on solid ground, you will be pampered with a Champagne breakfast and receive a certificate recording your flight from the pilot. Prices start at B15,500 for the flight and breakfast or opt for one of their packages which includes one-night accommodation at Kirimaya or Muthi Maya Forest Resort, starting at B26,500.

Get more info at http://bit.ly/WW9d7Y

If you want something a little less daredevil, then you can pay a visit to the large greenhouses at Dasada (179 M.12 T.Nurnhom, A.Meung, Prachinburi, 090198-7583, www.dasada-happiness.com).

This floral park situated on the Prachin Buri side of Khao Yai is home to millions of flowers. The Gallery, a large greenhouse on-site, is currently showcasing the “Floral Coral” exhibition. The MALAYSIA display uses a host of different flowers to create underwater scenes featuring everything from colorful jelly fish to a giant whale.

Afterwards, retreat to La Lalla Café where you can sip a cup INDONESIA of coffee while enjoying live jazz every weekend in a delightful garden setting. There’s also a bird and deer garden for animal lovers, as well as a resort and restaurant. Entry is B200.

Hotel des Artists (044-297-444/742-3, 084-358-7755, hoteldesartists@gmail. com). Hotel des Artists is set in a white colonial style mansion with rooms filled with equally classic wood furniture and romantic paintings. Additional villas are under construction and will be completed soon. From B3,200/room, B5,500/villa.

Kirimaya and Muthi Maya (044-426000, www.kirimaya.com). These two sister retreats are an ideal getaway even if you don’t fancy the balloon ride (see left). Choose between the glamorous tents at Kirimaya or spacious pool villas at Muthi Maya—both located amid scenic valleys. Hot deals from B4,503.

kirimaya

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around thailand Where Y In Bloom Another garden worth visiting in the area is The Bloom (357 Phayayen, Pakchong, 044-756-336, open daily 9am-6pm, www. thebloom.co.th), a 100-rai plot of land that a TV mogul has turned into the biggest floral garden in the country. Inside are various themed gardens such as Victoria Park, with its giant steel arbor, the landmark Starry Fountain, as well as a slightly clichĂŠd sheep farm. Do note, on our last visit in January, parts of the garden were still under construction and were some way off completion. Entry on weekdays B100, weekends B200.

Thai businessman. The gallery is packed with contemporary paintings by leading Thai artists while the outdoors incorporates a sculpture garden. The grounds also hold six modern residences, called the Art Space, priced at B30,000 a night they sleep up to 8-10 guests. There is also an Art Shop and the Anya Restaurant which is open FridaySunday. The art museum opens Mon-Thu 10am-6pm and Fri-Sun 9am-8pm.

Khaoyai art museum

Mountain Art Khaoyai Art Museum (Ban Tha Chang Soi 6, Moo 16, Mu Si, Pak Chong, 044-756060-66, www.khaoyaiartmuseum.com) is hidden away on a small hill before you reach the national park. The 1,700-sq-meter space features art pieces from the private collection of Pongchai Chindasook, a leading

khao yai national park

Khao Yai National Park Of course, the biggest attraction in the area is the National Park. The second largest in Thailand, it covers an area of over 2,000 sq km and ranges from forest-clad hills to open grasslands. Offering spectacular hilltop views, and a number of dramatic waterfalls, it remains one of the best places to spot wild Asian elephants as well as gibbons, black bears and over 320 species of birds.

The park is well served by paved roads and bicycles can be hired from the Visitor Center, which also has maps of the easier hiking trails. If you want to get off the beaten track, the park does get busy with local tourists at weekends, then you can usually organise guides at the many hotels and guesthouses outside the park. There is the option to stay overnight, either at a number of campsites (tents can be rented) or the park lodges, though you’ll need to make reservations through the national parks website (www. dnp.go.th). Entry is B400 for adults and B200 for children. february 2013 I WHERE T H A I L A N D 11

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Where ESCAPES

Travel News Grand openings, hot promotions and special events throughout Thailand

Vana Belle

dasada

SAMUI

Secret Forest Opening this month on the secluded northern section of Chaweng Beach in Koh Samui is Vana Belle (www. luxurycollection.com/vanabelle), Starwood’s latest addition to its Luxury Collection of resorts. With a name meaning “beautiful forest,” the décor also takes its cues from the lush tropical surroundings, with all 80 pool suites and villas (86-211 sq meters) featuring ivory hues and wood accents. There are two restaurants: the all-day-dining venue Kiree and the pool-side Panali, which serves Italian and international favorites, while a range of rejuvenating treatments are available at the Vana Spa. Be among the first to enjoy the opening offers, starting at B18,000 per night for a pool suite with breakfast and a B2,000 dining credit per stay, through July 13.

Chrysanthemum

NAKHON RATCHASIMA

How Yellow is Your Valley?

Every February, the valleys of Wang Nam Khiao district in Nakhon Ratchasima turn a beautiful shade of yellow, thanks to the mass blooming of the region’s chrysanthemum flowers. To celebrate this natural phenomena, the Chrysanthemum Flower Blooming Festival (Benchamat Ban Naimanmok) will be held in front of the Thai Samakkee Administrative Office during February 9-15, welcoming visitors with a flower fair, flower installations, garden decorations, live performances and the Wangnam Khiao Cross Country bicycle race (February 10, 8am, 081-955-2838).

Get more info on the festival at TAT Nakhon Ratchasima 044-249-654.

Chumphon

PRACHINBURI

Flower Power The Floral Coral Flower Exhibition at Dasada Gallery (179 Moo 12, PrachineKhaoyai Rd., Nernhom, Muang, Prachinburi, 090-198-7583, www. dasada-happiness.com) has reached the finale of its three-part festive series of flower installations this month, which will run until February 17. Themed “Pink Ocean,” its giant glasshouse, set against the backdrop of the greenery of Khao Yai, will be decorated with romantic flowers to celebrate the month of love and features an underwater theme. For more information, visit Dasada’s website or contact TAT Nakhon Nayok, 037312-282/284, www.facebook.com/ tatnayokfans.

Let’s Sea

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ESCAPES Where Y Q&A GM Talk

An art and design graduate who has now been in the hospitality business for more than 14 years, working as a GM at hotels across the Asia-Pacific region, Simone Hansen now oversees Thailand’s first dual-branded hotel, the Mercure and Ibis Bangkok Siam.

How has the travel industry changed recently?

With so many people having at least one smartphone or device, we have to adapt our technology by adding easy to use apps in order to reach guests in more convenient ways.

We can share our latest promotions quicker and easier and with our new Accorhotels. com app, guests can make a booking directly on their phone.

What makes Bangkok/Thailand such a special travel destination?

Thailand really does have it all, from great shopping and nightlife in Bangkok, to a wide range of cultural destinations, beaches, mountains—you name it, Thailand has it.

What’s the concept behind this project: two hotel brands in the same building?

Each of the brands is strong for different travelers. Ibis has a great reputation for excellent value for money and as a consistent 3-star international product. The Mercure is a 4-star product and it has a unique and warm design influenced by the local surroundings and offers additional facilities, including an all-day dining restaurant, Privilege floors and lounge, a fitness center and a roof top swimming pool.

HUA HIN

CHUMPHON

One of Bangkokians’ favorite boutique stays in Hua Hin, Let’s Sea (www.letussea.com), has completed a major refurbishment and recently unveiled its new look. Changes include new lighting in the pool, an additional al fresco space in every Moon Deck duplex suite and a new fitness studio.

Rates start from B5,400 per night.

Thanks to its remote location, Pah Toh, in Chumphon, is home to virgin forests, while the Pah Toh River is known as a top rafting spot. To kick off this year’s rafting season, TAT Chumphon are holding an array of activities on Feb 2-3 from a rafting queen contest to local produce markets. More info at 077-501-831, tatchumphon@tat.or.th

Let’s Go

River Runs

THE SMALL, CHIANGMAI

148- 150 Ta Pae Rd. Amphur Muang, Chiangmai 50000 Thailand Tel. +66 53 235 866-7 Fax: +66 53 235 868

Is it difficult being a female executive in the male-dominated hotel business?

I have been a GM for over 10 years in Australia, Indonesia, Vietnam and now Thailand. It can be difficult from time to time, but overall I think that there is more equality than when I first started.

info@thesmallhotelgroup.com / www.thesmallhotelgroup.com

THE SMALL, KRABI

What’s your favorite dining place in Bangkok?

As I am Australian, I would have to say No Idea on Sukhumvit 22 as it is a gastro pub with great food and a relaxed atmosphere.

What’s your favorite Thai dish you would recommend to visitors?

I can’t handle anything too spicy, so I opt for traditional chicken fried rice with egg and a squeeze of lime—khao pad gai kai dao.

What do you think is Bangkok’s most underrated attraction?

The Jim Thompson House. It has six separate Thai houses that were brought together in this one location and it is really unique and beautiful. It’s also interesting for the history, development and influence of Jim Thompson on the Thai silk industry. (www.jimthompsonhouse.com)

167 Moo 3, Tambon Ao Nang, Amphur Muang, Krabi 81000 Thailand Tel. +66 75 661 590-2 Fax. +66 75 661 593

info@thesmallhotelgroup.com / www.thesmallhotelgroup.com

KRABI LA PLAYA RESORT

Mercure Bangkok Siam & Ibis Bangkok Siam 927 Rama 1 Rd., Pathumwan, 02-659-2888. www. accor.com

143 Moo 3, Tambon Ao Nang, Amphur Muang, Krabi 81000 Thailand Tel: +66 75 637 015-20, +66 75 637 500 Fax: +66 75 661 323

info@krabilaplaya.com / www.krabilaplaya.com

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Where ESCAPES

damnoen saduak

Floating Markets

Amphawa, Samut Songkram Fri-Sun 11am-9pm

Le Meridien Chiang Rai

Thailand’s only night-time floating market and probably the most popular among locals who flock here from Bangkok on weekends to take a boat trip to see the fire flies (B60/person), taste the local seafood and breathe in the vintage ambiance. Catch a BangkokAmphawa van (B80/person) at the bus station next to Century The Movie Plaza (BTS Victory Monument), the trip takes around one and a half hours.

Bang Nampueng, Samut Prakarn Sat-Sun 8am-5pm

Amphawa Nanon

D2baraquda Pattaya

AIRLINES

SAMUT SONGKRAM

Low Cost High-Flying

Sleeping Beauty

Amphawa, a small sub-district home to Those wanting to explore more of South the popular Amphawa Floating Market, East Asia might want to know that, has just welcomed a new boutique stay.

Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.com) is The compact Amphawa Na Non Hotel slashing its prices for its two Southeast & Spa (96 Prachaset Rd., Ampawa, Asian routes flying direct from Bangkok.

Samut Songkram, 034-752-111, www.

Book now for a round-trip to Ho Chi amphawananon.com), located near the Minh from B4,800 and Kuala Lumpur bustling floating market, contains 36 from B4,900. We tried booking Ho Chi contemporary-style rooms clad in three Minh for a weekend in March and the different palettes, from vibrant colors MYANMAR rates VIETNAM stood the test, so there’s no on the first floor to cozier longer any need to wrestle schemes on the third, LAOS Chiang Rai with the complicated where the suites are booking systems of located. Guests low cost airlines can unwind with when you can get massages and Nakohon Ratchasima full services at treatments at Bangkok Prachinburi such affordable the in-house Amphawa rates.

Pattaya spa or go up to ANDAMAN Hua Hin SEA Amphawa’s only rooftop bar for a GULF OF sunset cocktail.

Samui Pah Toh SIAM

Phuket

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Hidden in the Bangkrajao Area, an oasis of greenery situated close to Bangkok, you can combine a market visit with a bike ride round the nearby plantations, and the chance to sample local treats like the guay tiew ruea (noodle soup) which is prepared in boats. As its not close to any BTS/MRT you might need to take a taxi or try an organized bike tour by Spice Roads (B1,100/person, www.spiceroads.com) Damnoen Saduak, Ratchaburi Daily 7am-noon Thailand’s most famous floating market among international visitors is where you can experience the photogenic images of a canal packed with row Chiang Mai boats you’ve seen in all the tourist ads.

The market has been a trading spot for fresh fruit and vegetables for several THAILAND decades and the best way to explore is still to getBangkok on a boat and get among the hustle and bustle Rayong and sample the local produce on offer from the other boats.

Get a bus from Southern Bus Station (Boromratchachonnanee Rd., B80/ Samui person) or you can just book a day trip Phang Nga with tour operators in Bangkok.

Phuket

MALAYSIA

INDONESIA

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ESCAPES Where Y New Room Baan Dinso @ Ratchadamnoen

After the success of Baan Dinso boutique hostel, which was awarded an art and architecture preservation award in 2009 by the Association of Siamese Architects, the owner Nidhi Akkaravivat, decided to expand the business to the main Ratchadamnoen Klang Road to attract more upscale visitors. The result is the only hotel in Bangkok that has a view of the historic Democracy Monument. All 27 rooms

are furnished in a minimal style with a neutral palette and Thai accents.

Aimed at budget tourists, there are 18 single rooms (B800-1,200) and a twin with shared bathroom (B1,600-1,900) but if you want ensuite you can opt for a deluxe (B2,200) or grand (B2,500) room.

78/3 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., Phra Nakhon, 02-622-0560. www. baandinso.com

CHIANG RAI

Bonus Breeze Chiang Rai’s only international branded hotel Le Meridien Chiang Rai Resort & Spa (053-603-333, www.lemeridien. com/chiangrai) welcomes you to breathe in the last of the winter breeze with its ongoing New Year promotion. Rooms start from B2,600, which is basically 50% off the regular rates. Book through February 11 for stays until June 30.

PATTAYA

French Film Festival Following last year’s successful Rooftop Film Festival, the dusitD2 Baraquada (Pattaya Sai 2 Rd., Pattaya, www. dusitd2pattaya.dusit.com) have joined forces with the French Embassy and the World Film Festival of Bangkok to bring you the Pattaya French Film Festival 2013. Every Friday and Saturday during Feb 1-23, you can enjoy screenings of one of eight classic French movies; including Les Triplettes de Belleville (2003) on Feb 1, Lola (1961) on Feb 2 and Two days in Paris (2007) on Feb 15. Films are in French with English subtitles. From 8pm, free admission. Call 038-769-999 for reservations.

french film festival

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Where hot stuff

Scarlet Woman

1

Embrace Valentine’s with our pick of new products sporting a romantic hue.

1 Clinique Chubby Intense Lip Balm, B650 2 Pandora crystalized charm bracelet, price TBA 3 Hugo Boss Red Perfume, 40ml, B2,050 4 Coach Perforated Penny Shoulder Purse, B13,500 5 Jo Malone Red Roses Bath Oil Decanter, 200ml, B4,700 6 Clinique Happy in Bloom, 30ml B1,250, 50ml, B1,950 7 Pedro heels, B3,890 8 Pedro loafer, B2,990 9 H&M fluffy skirt, price TBA !0 Coach Perforated Rugby Stripe Duffle, B23,500 !1 Coach Tanner Tote, B15,500

2 3

4 5

6 8

7

9

!0

!1

Clinique and Hugo Boss. At leading department stores. Coach. Try 1/F, Siam Paragon, 02-129-4664 and 1/F, CentralWorld, 02-646-1881. Jo Malone. Try Siam Paragon, 02-610-7755 and Central Chidlom, 02-655-7247. H&M. 1-2/F, Siam Paragon. Pedro. CentralWorld, 02-365-6281. Pandora. Central Chidlom, 02-7937777.

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ThewhereGuide BANGKOK | february 2013

ART

L’Art de Marsi

To celebrate HM Queen Sirikit’s 80th birthday last August, the surrealist artist HSH Princess Marsi Sukhumbhand Paribatra, who now resides in France, sent over some of her private collection for her second Bangkok based exhibition. Her paintings are influenced by the Renaissance era and cover four main themes: rocks and flowers, real and fantastic animals, architecture and ornaments. The exhibition also features some of HM Queen Sirikit’s private collection, too. Through Feb 26. At Queen’s Gallery, Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-281-5360/1. Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm.

arts + CULTURE..................................... 18-19 dining........................................................20-23 nightlife.........................................................24

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Business traveler....................................25 health + wellness...........................26-27 shops + services.................................28-29

navigate........................................................ 30 maps........................................................... 30-34

Note that the reference at the end of the listings (WS24, ZD3, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the individual maps on pages 30-34. Listings without coordinates indicate locations not within the maps.

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Arts+Culture

Art Exhibition Highlights

The Desires of Nonthok — Leading Thai artist Jirapat Tatsanasomboon bring us his very political interpretation of the Ramakien, Thailand’s national epic. Jirapat explores the interactions of class systems and the abuse of power through his portrayal of the demon Nonthok, while the Western aspects in the artist’s pictures allude to the intercultural relationship between Thai and Western culture.

Through Mar 2. Thavibu Gallery, Room 308, 3/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Rd., 02-2665454 XI10

Ballad of the Black Cloud — Pom Jitpratak is one of Thailand most famous illustrators, thanks to his surreal drawings combining lines and vivid splashes of paint. His work has been featured locally and internationally, from magazines to exhibitions and even on a special edition Coca Cola bottle. His latest exhibition portrays his interpretation on Thai society’s restrictions and social norms through his signature style. Through Feb 28. At Koi Art Gallery, 4312 Soi Sukhumvit 31, Wattana, 02-662-3218. Open Tue-Sun 11am-7pm. www. koiartgallerybangkok.com ZA3

Giving Up Is Not An Option — The Serindia Gallery teams up with the newly established artist residency Thaillywood to present artworks from Thai and international artists.

The first to be featured is German artist Ole Ukena who mixes sculpture, drawing and film to broach the subject of interrelating opposites. He attempts to inject humor while implying social issues through the use of unconventional items like bricks, matches and rubber ducks. Through Feb 28. Serindia Gallery, Room 3101, 3201, OP Garden, 4-6 Charoen Krung Soi 36 XJ11

ART GALLERIES 100 TONSON GALLERY ­— With a prime location and well-designed space, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-684-1527.

BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20 GOSSIP GALLERY ­— This multifaceted space showcases contemporary pieces from both local and international artists. 3/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-2375568. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. gossipgallerybkk72.com XI10 THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC)­— Home to a large art library, and host to temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-6648488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-9pm. www.tcdc.or.th ZC4 THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes.

101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-2815360/1. Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. www. queengallery.org WS27 H GALLERY ­— Set in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions representing emerging contemporary Asian artists. 201, Sathorn Soi 12, 081-310-4428. BTS Surasak. Open WedMon 10am-6pm. www.hgallerybkk.com XH11

NATIONAL GALLERY ­— Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd., 02-281-2224, 02-282-2639-40.

Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www.nationalgallery.go.th WQ27 V64 ­— More than 60 artists from Chatuchak Weekend Market teamed up to transform a three-acre space into a large art center, which features studios, a gallery, an art academy, shop and restaurant. 143/19 Chaengwattana Soi 1 Yak 6, Bhangkhen. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.v64artstudio.com

v64

SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — More of a shop than a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai artworks. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040.

Open daily 9am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www. sombatpermpoongallery.com YL21

Silom galleria — This large mall hosts a range of modern Asian art under one roof. Highlight galleries include: Tang Contemporary Art, which covers modern Chinese art, and Thavibu Gallery, which features works by Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists. 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-2665454. The mall is open daily 10am-8pm, though some galleries have different opening times. XI10

MUSEUMS JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. B100. www. jimthompsonhouse.com YM15 SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household features eight Thai-style houses that showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period along with prehistoric relics from Baan Chiang. 02-354 Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-2461775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www.suanpakkad.com

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Arts+Culture NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous property houses some of the most impressive architecture, art and antiques in the country. Na Phrathat Rd., 02-215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. B50. www.nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th WQ27 MUSEUM SIAM ­— This completely restored colonial-style building is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-2252777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. B300. www. museumsiam.com WQ23 Museum of Floral Culture — Founded by one of Thailand’s leading florists, Sakul Intakul, this museum tells the story of how geography, tradition, and beliefs have influenced the handling and presentation of flowers, and in turn, how these have affected the course of history. Samsen Soi 28, Dusit, 02-669-3633/4.

Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Tours in English run daily at 11am. B150.

KIDs siam ocean world — Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species.

Highlights include the underwater tunnel, penguin enclosure and the glass bottom boat tour. Basement, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.,02687-2000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm.

B900 for adults, B700 for children. YM17 Flow House — If you’re missing the beach, then why not go surfing in the middle of the city?

That’s what this latest attraction offers, thanks to a special machine which gives a similar experience to riding a real wave. Flow House also features bars, restaurants and retail shops specializing in water sports gear. Lessons are available for novices and prices cover board hire, use of showers and towels. Sukhumvit Soi 26. Open Sun-Thu 8am-11pm; Fri-Sat 8ammidnight. Prices start from B550 per hour. www.flowhousebangkok.com Funarium—This giant indoor soft play area is a great option for those parents looking for somewhere safe for their children to blow off some steam. It offers painting, crafts, bike riding, roller blading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas. 111/1 Sukhumvit 26, 02-665-6555. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 8:30am-8:30pm. B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults for three hours. www.funarium.co.th

attractions museum of floral culture

Queen Sirikit Museum of textiles — Opened last year this museum tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand. Highlights include the Queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading international designers, Grand Palace, Na Phralan Rd., 02-225-9420. Open daily 9am-4:30pm. Entry fee B150. Proper attire is required. WP25

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Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) — Sat on the river’s edge the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmerstyle tower) is decorated with millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means “morning” and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arun Amarin Rd. Wat Arun Pier. WP22 Wat traimit Wittayaram — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm.

wat phra kaeo

Grand palace and Wat Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture. Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace is Wat Phra Kaeo, home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. Also, don’t miss the exquisite mural wall paintings that adorn the cloisters surrounding the temple. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. Free tours in English available at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm.

B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25 Wat Po — A major tourist attraction, Wat Po is just as famous for its massage school as it is for its 46-meter-long Reclining Buddha.

Never mind that there’s usually a long wait and little privacy once you’re inside: massage treatments at this traditional Thai massage school never cease to attract those who want the real deal. Wat Po’s history as a center for Thai massage dates back to 1843, when King Rama III commissioned 60 diagrams depicting various massage techniques to be inscribed on the temple’s marble walls. If you feel inspired to learn the art yourself, enroll in the temple’s training classes. Wat Po (Wat Prachetuphon), 2 Sanamchai Rd., Phra Nakhon, 02-225-4771.

Open daily 8am-6pm. www.watpomassage. com WQ24

Where Special | Arts+Culture

Premjit Thai Crafts The only place in Ratchaprasong District that offers authentic antiques, wood crafts and Buddha images from Thailand, Myanmar and Laos at affordable prices.

Retail and wholesale.

Visit our showroom at Amarin Plaza, 3rd fl., Thai Craft Market Zone,Ploenchit Rd., Ratchaprasong.Tel: 081-424-0587 Email: kurunusart@yahoo.com

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BANGKOK

dining The Kitchen Table

Monruedee Jansuttipan

The new W Hotel Bangkok’s signature restaurant is run by Australian Chef Sarah Briegel who serves up her take on the various cuisines she’s experienced in far-flung locations like Dubai, London and Hong Kong. The all-day dining venue starts with an a la carte buffet breakfast, moves on to a comforting luncheon, then turns the focus onto more seasonal produce for dinnertime. Unlike the glamorous and glittery purple vibe of the rest of the hotel, The Kitchen Table sports an amber palette, with the sizeable dining room fitted out with a mix of wooden furniture and some booths.

The open kitchen runs down one side and there’s also a lengthy terrace that overlooks the old Russian embassy.

2/F, W Bangkok, Sathorn Rd., 02344-4000. Open daily 6:30am-5pm; 6-10:30pm. www.whotels.com/ Bangkok XH12

DOWNTOWN NEW Le Beaulieu — French. $$$$ Chef Herve Frerard has returned to Bangkok’s dining scene with his mix of hearty, rustic options like the baked morteau sausage served with a rich tomato lentil sauce and terrine de pot au feu alongside bistro classics like bouillabaisse and sole meunière.

It’s simple dishes using high quality ingredients imported direct from France or making the most of the chef’s involvement with the Royal Projects.

G/F, Athénée Office Tower, 63 Wireless Rd., 02168-8220-3 www.le-beulieu.com YN21

Pick D’Sens — French. $$$$ The Frenchimported eatery by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers has all the oomph one might expect.

The dimly-lit dining room has a view of Lumphini Park, and the food is bold and exciting. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000 ext.

2499. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10pm. XF10 Erawan tea room ­— Thai. $$$$ With a classy oriental décor, five-star service and a fine tea selection, Erawan Tea Room also impresses with its authentic Thai dishes and monthly-themed menus. 2/F, Erawan Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02254-1234. Open daily 10am-10pm. YN18 Eat Me — International. $$$$ The décor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic.

The kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng.

Open daily 3pm-1am. XG11 Gianni Ristorante — Italian. $$$$ “Gianni’s,” as it’s referred to by most, has earned its following with consistently outstanding food, an elegant

atmosphere and smooth service. 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-652-2922. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm. YN19

Pick Gaggan ­— Indian. $$$$ After a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and some wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02-652-1700. BTS Chit Lom. 6pmmidnight. YL15 Jim Thompson Bar & Restaurant — Thai. $$$ Located in the former home of Siamese silk expert Jim Thompson, the open-air restaurant by a small lotus pond and its air-conditioned dining room serve up authentic Thai food and simple Western dishes. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, 02-612-3601. www.jimthompson.com.

Open daily 9am-5pm, 7-11pm. BTS National Stadium. YM15

Pick issaya siamese club ­— Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef Ian Kittichai made his name in New York but returns to his home country with this restaurant, set in a delightful wooden mansion and featuring inventive twists on classic Thai recipes. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., Sathorn Rd., 02-6729040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:3010:30pm.

La Monita Taqueria ­— Mexican. $$ Handsdown the best place for a quesadilla or fish taco.

The décor and service aren’t much, but you won’t care after your third Reposado Margarita.

Mahatun Plaza, 888/26 Phloenchit Rd., 02-6509581. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am10pm. YM21

Pick

Nahm — Thai. $$$$ Former holder of a Michelin star, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open daily noon-2pm, 7-11pm. XG13

Pick

Niu’s — Italian. $$$$ Muted tones, crisp white tablecloths and large windows let the inventive and delicious Italian food take center stage. Niu’s also has an extensive wine list and often hosts top-name jazz acts downstairs. Baan Silom, 661 Silom Rd., 02-266-5333. Open daily 5pm-1am. XI10

Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$

Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Area guide Downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods Lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 Upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

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dining Ruen Urai — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house, decorated with a blend of contemporary furniture and rare Thai crafts, it offers a polished menu of solid recipes. Rose Hotel, 118, Surawong Rd., 02266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. XF8 Somtam Der — Thai. $$-$$$ Yards from the bustle of Silom Rd., this new spot brings typical street food into a more upmarket setting. The menu has a focus on somtam, a spicy Thai papaya salad, and other classic Northeastern dishes. Their martinis are a highlight. 5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02632-4499. Open daily 11am-10pm. XF11

Pick Sra bua — Thai. $$$$ Sister of Michelinstarred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen offers Thai food with an almost molecular twist in a soaring, glittering palace dotted with fake rice fields. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02162-9000. BTS Siam. Open daily noon-11pm. YL17 Zense — International. $$$$ The rooftop dining venue of Zen Department Store has reopened with an all-new look and a striking view of downtown Bangkok. Taste dishes from five kitchens courtesy of five famous restaurants. 17/F, Zen, CentralWorld, 02-100-9898. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.zensebangkok.com YM19

Pick Zuma — Japanese. $$$$ Their generous salads mix avocado and fresh sushi. The bar is made from a single, monumental slab of stone and the garden is air-conditioned. It’s all wonderfully glamorous. G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-636-0002. Open Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm. YN18

ROSAbieng — Thai. $-$$ This two-story wooden house-turned-restaurant is a great place for those seeking an introduction to Thai food, thanks to its broad menu of properly executed dishes. 3 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-253-5868. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Sat 11am-11pm. ZB1

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Y SPoTLIGHT

Pick Seafood Bar — Seafood. $$$ Owned by an oyster importer, this restaurant features 20 types of oysters and perfectly grilled fish dishes cooked with a modern American approach. Somerset Lake Place, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-663-8863, Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun noon-3pm, 6-10pm. BTS Asok. ZD3

Upper Sukhumvit Bacco ­— Italian. $$$ This relaxed, slightly rustic eatery packs in the diners nightly, thanks to its extensive menu of authentic regional specialities. 35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-6624538. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am3pm, 5:30pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30ammidnight. ZC6

Pick Bo.Lan ­— Thai. $$$$ Chefs Bo and Dylan offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a charming house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes to reflect the seasons. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962. Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pmmidnight. ZD5

Supanniga Eating Room

Sat in a three-story shophouse, this new Thai restaurant offers a posh Thonglor location and a cozy and chic décor, inspired by the owner’s family boutique hotel in Khon Kaen, which combines vivid colors with an earthy palette. The menu is based on what the owner’s grandmother used to cook up at home—Thai food that borrows both from her hometown on the Eastern seaboard, Trat, and where the family now lives, Khon Kaen.

Expect authentic and often rare dishes like the moo cha muang (pork with Guttiferae tree leaves), alongside staples like yam neau lai (beef salad) and pad krapow (stir-fried meat with herbs).

160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (between Thonglor Soi 6 and 8). Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm ZC6

Lower Sukhumvit 11 Gallery — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34, Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. ZB1 Above Eleven — Fusion. $-$$ The twist of this rooftop bar and restaurant, apart from a great city view, is a concept that focuses on Nikkei cuisine: a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. 32/F Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-9300. www. aboveeleven.com ZA1

above eleven

Rossini’s ­— Italian. $$$$ Chef Stefano Merio works closely with Michelin-star chef Alfredo Russo from Turin to deliver contemporary Italian cuisine with perfect wine pairings. Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-6498364. BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit. Open Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. Sat 6:30-daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm. ZC2 February 2013 I WHERE TH A I L A N D 21

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dining L’Appart ­— French. $$$-$$$$ Imagine a grand Parisian apartment, which means parquet floors, rich burgundy wallpaper and lots of marble. The food is French cuisine with Thai touches. There’s also a full bar but a particular focus on Champagne cocktails. 32/F Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sois 13 and 15), 02-126-9999. Open daily 5pm-midnight. www.sofitel.com ZB2

Pick ISao ­— Japanese. $$$-$$$$ Despite the standard izakaya facade, Isao offers something different—Japanese cuisine with distinctly American twists, thanks to the chef’s apprenticeship at the Green Tea sushi bar in Chicago. 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645/6.

Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, SatSun 11am-10pm. ZC4 Indus ­— Indian. $$$ An ambient spot with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual north Indian favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. ZE5

Pick Quince — International. $$$ Quince’s country-classic theme goes for a casual and rustic ambiance that’s part industrial part Spanish villa.

The kitchen’s focus is all about sustainability, ethical eating and local produce with impressive, down-to-earth home cooking and a ‘market’ menu that changes frequently. Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478. Open daily 6-10pm. www. quincebangkok.com

THONGLOR/EKKAMAI 4 Garcons — French. $$$ Cooked by a Thai doctor, this classic French fare is served in a warm and elegant atmosphere. 1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-713-9547.

Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm. ZB6

Near Equal — Thai. $$-$$$ A new location for a long-term favorite in a charming house down a lovely leafy street. Upstairs the wood floors and antique pieces make for a delightful spot to enjoy well-balanced Thai dishes; then head downstairs to browse the selection of Thai furniture and handicrafts on sale. 22/2 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-258-1565. ZC5

Pick The Local ­— Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef and co-owner Can Markawat keeps the focus on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find traditional recipes. They’re all served in a beautiful hundred-year-old house. There are cooking lessons every Wednesday, too. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm

Soul Food Mahanakorn — Thai. $$-$$$ Soul Food dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails, as well as a brief menu of well-executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect on the hip crowd and the place is often packed. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pmmidnight. ZC6

THE GALLERY SUSHI BAR

Y DINING NEWS Film Rolls bonjour

Harvey — American, International. $$$$ A very popular spot with the town’s movers and shakers, the food encompasses modern interpretations of American, French and Italian cuisine. 129 Thonglor Soi 9, 02-712-9911. Open daily 11:30am2pm, 6-11pm. ZB6 Hazara —Indian. $$$$ Part of The Face’s elegant compound that also includes a Thai restaurant, bar, spa and bakery. The Northern Indian food is excellent and the décor is a stunning mix of hardwood carpentry and exotic crafts. 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-713-6049. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm. ZB6 Khun Kling pak sod — Thai. $$ Another single-room family-run eatery, they serve up unapologetically fiery and authentic Southern Thai cuisine. Thonglor Soi 5, 02-185-3977. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-9:30pm. ZC6

NEAR EQUAL

whips up solidly traditional Southern-style dishes like kanom chine namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that has plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches. Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm. ZC6

Bonjour — French. $$$$ Fine French dishes served in a bourgeois villa that boasts velvet lounge chairs and a small tropical garden.

1217/2 Sukhumvit Soi 59, 02-714-2112. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-1am. ZC6

Ruen Mallika — Thai. $$$ Set in a small sub-soi off from Sukhumvit 22, the nicelydecorated two-story restaurant is nestled in a peaceful garden. The huge menu of Thai classics utilizes homegrown vegetables and herbs and doesn’t hold back on the chili. Soi Sainamthip 3, Sukhumvit Soi 22, open daily 11am-11pm. www.ruenmallika.com Smith — International. $$$$ Set in a former furniture warehouse, it’s decked out in an elegant industrial theme, with walls lined with butcher’s tools. Chef Peter Pitakwong’s menu focuses on two things: locally-sourced ingredients and nose-to-tail cooking. 1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-261-0515. Open TueSun 6pm-midnight. ZC5

Pick Phuket town — Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town

Khun Churn — Thai/Vegetarian. $-$$ This family-run eatery, tucked away in the relatively quiet Bangkok Mediplex, has a classy-yet-casual atmosphere and serves up down-to-earth yet delicious meat-free Thai meals. G/F, Bangkok Mediplex Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 42, 02-713-6599.

Open daily 10am-8pm. ZD7 Mr. Jones’ Orphanage — Bakery. $$ This quirky pastry venue combines elements of country kitchen, Catholic church and Santa’s workshop.

The focus is firmly on baked sweets, including the intriguingly named Chocky Mud Pie and Custard Cow’s Poo. G/F SeenSpace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2378. ZB6

As the name suggests, The Gallery Sushi Bar (19th Bld.,19 Chidlom Rd., 02-250-7280) rolls together two things: sushi and a gallery (of travel photographs). The owners promise high quality fish and the benefits of more than ten years’ working in a Japanese kitchen in the US. Recommendations include the sashimi platter (B590) and some fusion rolls like the Salmon Solomon (rolls topped with salmon and lemon with chili mayo sauce, B400).

New Old Home If you’re craving some Vietnamese, then you might want to pay a visit to the new location of long-term eatery Dalad (Aree Soi 4 [North], 02-271-2108-9). The retro house provides the same homey and cozy vibe as before, complete with floral wallpaper and wooden furnishings, so sit back and enjoy their nam neung (grilled pork meatballs wrapped with rice paper, B190) and deepfried banana (B100).

Anything but Vanilla The latest branch of the popular Vanilla chain, the new Vanilla Home Café (G/F, Silom Complex, Silom Rd., 02-231-3168), offers an intriguing Thai cuisine focus. The décor and packaging is still tastefully chic, while the menu is filled with Thai classics like pla too tom sai bua (mackerel in coconut soup with lotus stem, B150) and tom saep nuea toon sai kapi (spicy soup with beef and shrimp paste, B165). Desserts are also pretty old-school, including pla haeng tangmo (watermelon topped with sun-dried fish, B70) and aa-lua (flour with coconut milk, B30). A set lunch is also available at B220.

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dining Pick Xuan mai — Vietnamese. $$$ Probably the best Vietnamese restaurant in town, this is where former beauty queen-then-FBI agent chef Meyung Robson sources the best ingredients, often direct from Vietnam, and cooks them perfectly from traditional recipes.

351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-185-2619.

Open Tue-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 11:30am-midnight; Sun 11:30am-10pm. ZA6

Riverside Pick Chon — Thai. $$$$ Set in a beautiful Thai teak house overlooking the Chao Phraya River, Chon (“spoon” in Thai) is making a name for itself thanks to the authentic Thai food being served up by Chef Blair Mathieson. The Siam Hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd., Dusit, 02-2066999. Free shuttle boat from Central Pier. www.thesiamhotel.com the deck ­— Thai/International. $$$ Book in advance for one of the best spots, out on the second floor terrace, and enjoy the amazing view of Wat Arun across the river. The wellexecuted menu covers Thai and European dishes. 36-38 Soi Pratu Nokyung, Maharat Rd., 02-221-9158. Open Mon-Thu 7am-10pm, FriSun 7am-11pm. WQ23

Mei Jiang ­— Chinese. $$$$ This elegant establishment overlooking the Chao Phraya River offers one of the best dim sum experiences in town. The food is authentic Cantonese, while the service is knowledgeable and courteous. The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-861-2888. BTS Saphan Taksin. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm.

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Y SPoTLIGHT

Le Normandie ­— French. $$$$ The Mandarin Oriental’s showcase restaurant has set the standard for service and cuisine for years­­.

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02659-9000. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm; daily 7-10:30pm. XJ11 Supatra Riverside — Thai. $$$$ Situated on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River, the view from the terrace of this Thai house is amazing.

There are regular cultural performances and a range of classic Thai dishes. Free boat from Maharaj Pier. 266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arunamarin Rd., 02-411-0305. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm. ZP26 Steve Café & Cuisine ­— Located in the small community behind Wat Devarajkoonchon next to Thewet pier, Steve’s offers river views and a charming 60-year old wooden house, decked out in vibrant colors while aiming to serve up authentic Southern dishes. 68 Soi Sri Ayuthaya 21 (Wat Devarajkoonchon), Sri Ayuthaya Rd., 081-8680744, 02-281-0915. www.stevecafeandcuisine. com. Open daily 11:30am-11pm.

KiSara

Occupying the space that used to be Drinking Tea Eating Rice, this new Japanese restaurant celebrates its makeover, with a new menu and an earth-toned décor that emphasizes natural elements, alongside copper sculptures and marble accents. Chef Kenji Shindo has created dishes that blend authentic Japanese flavors while integrating high-end international ingredients like truffle, foie gras and lobster into sushi, rolls and sizzling teppanyaki dishes. Drop by on weekdays for the sushi buffet, while the weekend lunch buffet adds more variety in the form of tempura and teppanyaki dishes like Angus beef and scallops. 3/F, Conrad Hotel, 87 Wireless Rd., 02-690-9999. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm; 6-10pm. YN21

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nightlife LE DERRIERE

Nightclub Q Bar Bangkok, one of the long-term players on the nightlife hub of Sukhumvit Soi 11, just opened a visually arresting new bar right next door. Set in a revamped abandoned space, Le Derriere is a luxuriously fitted-out art nouveau Francophile absinthe and wine bar, complete with velvet couches and dark-wooden lounge tables that offers both indoor and outdoor drinking.

Beyond the bare-brick façade, the place has all the hallmarks of an exclusive den and the impressive drinks list features a French-heavy wine list, classic cocktails and a great range of different types of absinthe. They also offer a ladies night on Wednesdays and Sundays. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02 252 5366. Open 9pm-3am daily, free entry Sun-Thu, B500 Fri-Sat (incl two drinks). ZA1

Downtown Bed Supperclub — Bangkok’s leading club, with a space-age interior, is divided into two sides— the restaurant, which offers creative food and cutting-edge performances; and the club, where beautiful people come to dance. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. Open daily 7pm-2am. www. bedsupperclub.com ZA1 Beervault — This simple and sleek bar is a mecca for imported brews, boasting 48 bottled beers from 12 different countries and six draught beers.

Four Points by Sheraton Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 15, 02-309-3113. Open daily 11-1am. ZB2 Hyde & Seek — Elevated pub grub, one of Bangkok’s best cocktail menus and a décor that conjures up Victorian drawing room style and NYC sophistication. Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-168-5152-3.

BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. YM21 Levels — Decked out with a huge LED chandelier above a circular bar and a bunch of monochrome sofas surrounding a sizeable dance floor, this cavernous recent addition to the Soi 11 strip aims for a rather swanky audio-visual clubbing experience with international DJs regularly dropping by. 6/F Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246. Open daily 9pm-3am. www. levelsclub.com ZA1

Iron Fairies — Like no other bar in Bangkok, it actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies. A great live band and powerful cocktails make this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-8875. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. ZB6 Mellow — Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, affluent locals, attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and delicious cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am. ZA6 WTF — A collaboration between an art curator, a hip hotelier and a photojournalist, WTF is actually a hybrid bar and exhibition space that’s incredibly popular with Bangkok’s creative expats and local hipsters. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. www. wtfbangkok.com ZC5

Y BARS WITH Bands

Three venues offering great live music Ad Here the 13th One of the last bastions of blues music in Bangkok, this narrow little glass shophouse facade conceals an equally tiny space that’s crammed with bric-a-brac.

Somehow, they also squeeze in a few plastic tables, a bar and some drums. The excellent three-man house band play most nights and are often joined by other musicians. 13 Samsen Rd., Banglamphu, 08-97694613, 08-1456-9513. Open Mon-Sun 6pm-midnight.

Fat Gut’z Saloon

ThongLor/Ekkamai Clouds — The futuristic vision is certainly striking— from the undulating ceiling, sporting anything from roses to Barbie dolls, to the acrylic seating inset with leaves. Potent cocktails from the laboratory of a bar add to the techno-ecoinspired theme. G/F, Seenspace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2365. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZB6

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Riverside Viva & Aviv — Fitting for its riverside location, this venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nauticallyinspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive, well-made cocktails and pub grub.

River City Complex, 23 Yota Rd., 02-639-6305.

Open daily 11am-midnight. www.vivaaviv.com

While not blessed with ample space, this 1920s speakeasy-inspired hole-in-the-wall still manages to squeeze in a great band, which plays uptempo rock ‘n’ roll and bluesy numbers well into the night.

Come early as the place gets packed fast during the weekends. Don’t forget to sample their specialty fish and chips. 1/F, Grass Thonglor, 264 Thong Lor 12, 02-714-9832.

Niu’s This swanky restaurant and bar oozes class, from the plush leather chairs to the high quality performers.

The combination of state-of-the-art acoustics, top Italian cuisine and rotating jazz and blues musicians strikes the right chord among jazz connoisseurs.

1-2/F, Baan Silom, 661 Silom Rd., 02-266-5333. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.niusonsilom.com

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BUSINESs Traveler SERVICED OFFICES

GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENTS

ELITE OFFICE—With two downtown locations by the BTS, the fully equipped offices are available on flexible contracts. Business and work permit assistance is also available. Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm. www.elite-offices.com.

THAILAND BOARD OF INVESTMENT—To encourage investment, the board offers foreign incentives and business support, including advice and key contacts. 555 Viphavadi Rangsit Rd., 02553-8111. www.boi.go.th.

IW SERVICED OFFICE—IW offers customizable offices in prime Sathorn and Sukhumvit locations, complete with secretarial services and meeting room facilities. Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5:30pm. www. iwoffice.com.

DEPARTMENT OF INTERNATIONAL TRADE PROMOTION—The website is in Thai, but its Thai Trade website features some key information in English. Call center: 1169. 44/100 Nonthaburi 1 Rd., 02-793-9394. www.thaitrade.com.

OFFICE FIRST—Their Sathorn office provides serviced offices, virtual offices, meeting rooms and business support, with the additional availability of translation services. Facilities are pay-per-use and IT and telecom support is also offered. 47/F, Empire Tower, 195 South Sathorn Rd., 02-6863400. BTS Chong Nonsi. www.officefirst.net.

THAI CUSTOMS DEPARTMENT—The website gives a general guideline of tax regulations pertaining to traders, businesses and individuals, but details should be verified in case of regulation changes. Call center: 1164. 1 Sunthornkosa Rd., 02-667-7100. www.customs.go.th.

SERVCORP—With three prestigious locations in downtown Bangkok, this international company promises to impress your clients. Facilities and services vary. www.servcorp.net.

TEMP AGENCIES MANPOWER—A world leader in workforce solutions, they have a range of resources and services in the realm of HR including contract details, payroll and legal advice. 02-634-7273. www.manpower.th.com.

PRTR—One of Thailand’s top recruitment and outsourcing agencies, their range of staff services includes matching contract staff to employers on short notice. 02-716-0000. www.prtr.com.

CAR RENTAL SIXT—This European company allows 24-hour pick up and return, and between its three Bangkok locations offers a choice of sedan, van, truck, sports car, convertible or SUV. Suvarnabhumi Airport: 086-909-4422. For more branches: www.sixt.com/car-rental/thailand.

THAI RENT A CAR—The website includes a simple key to help make choosing the right car easier and they offer personal drivers for daily or contract hire.

02-737-8888. For branches: www.thairentacar. com.

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HERTZ—Their fleet of Hondas and Toyotas are available at the airport and downtown, and with multiple corporate partners (like Thai Airways and ANA), you might be able to save money or collect miles with their offers. Reservation center: 02266-4666. For branches: www.hertzthailand.com.

Documentation TRanslation services—Most translation agencies in Bangkok are located in downtowm areas. Try: Chalermprakiat Center for Translation and Interpretation: Room 1308, 13/F, Boromaratchakumari Bldg., Chulalongkorn University, Phaya Thai Rd., 02-218-4635, transunit@chula.ac.th; or, International Translations Office, 22 Silom Rd. (2/F), next to BTS Sala Daeng, 02-233-7714, www.translations. co.th.

Legalization serviceS—The Consulate Office of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs is the only authority to certify any translated documents, including birth, education and marriage certificates. Fee starts from B200 and the process takes two working days. Same-day express service is available at double the price. Open Mon-Fri 8:30am-3.30pm. 123 Chaeng Wattana Rd., Laksi, 02-981-7171. www.consular.go.th.

SMART SEARCH—Normally specializing in executive recruitment, the relatively small agency emphasizes their personalized levels of service. 02-714-8088. www.ssrecruitment.com.

OFFICE MATERIALS B2S—You’ll find the office basics at this book, music and stationery store, which has branches in Central and Robinson department stores. Try Central Chidlom (7/F, 1027 Ploenchit Rd.). For more branches: www.b2s.co.th.

OFFICE DEPOT—With 29 branches in Bangkok, the stores at Asoke and Silom are the most convenient downtown. The international chain stocks everything from office electronics to furniture, and if you shop online, orders over B500 are delivered free of charge. Silom branch: 3/F and 9/F, United Center, 323 Silom Rd., 02267-6262. Call center: 02-808-5555. For more branches: www.officedepot.co.th.

TECH SUPPORT Pantip Plaza—A heaven for tech and IT lovers, the rather grungy-looking seven floors are dedicated to gadgets and gizmos. You’ll find countless little stalls selling computers, laptops, phones, printers, mainboards and more, with many computer repair services located on the ground floor. 604/3 Petchaburi Rd., 02-2501555. BTS Ratchathewi. www.pantipplaza.com. iSERVE—A standard service center for all Apple devices. 3/F, Amarin Plaza, Ploenchit Rd., 02-652-2324 /-7. BTS Chit Lom. For retail branches: www.istudio.in.th.

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HEALTH + WELLNESS Valentine’s Treats

As February is the month of romance, The Spa at the Ambassador’s Hotel (2/F, Main Wing, 171 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-254-0444) has come up with a series of strawberry-focused treatments aimed at couples. The 90-minute “Strawberry in Love” package includes body scrub, aromatherapy massage, and a milk-andstrawberry body mask (B1,499/person, B2,599/couple). You can also refresh your senses with a strawberry facial mask (B299), too. Meanwhile at the Imperial Spa (9/F, Queen’s Park Tower, The Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel, Sukhumvit 22, 02-261-9000), the “Spa Buffet” lets you choose from a smorgasbord of treatments, ranging from facials, body wraps, body scrubs and massages, and combine them in a two- (B1,999) or three-hour (B2,799) package.

SPA Apex Medi Spa — Renowned beauty clinic APEX Profound Beauty has gone upscale with this total rejuvenating retreat set in Thong Lor. The spa features in-patient rooms, treatment suites, a restaurant and swimming pool. Programs range from three-hour spa treatments to seven-day weight-loss packages. 208/1-3, Thonglor Soi 8, 02-713-8331-2. Open daily 8:30am-8:30pm. ZC6 ELEMIS SPA — The Elemis Spa is the first in SE Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the ancient Arabian sauna in the Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777.

BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am-10pm. www. stregis.com/bangkok YN18 I.SAWAN — With its Tony Chi design and its classy residential cottages and treatment bungalows, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a fitness club, tennis and squash courts and a 25-meter pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com YN18 I Spa — One of Bangkok’s newest spa sanctuaries, the treatments offered here are based on therapies from China, India, Japan and Thailand, using five choices of essential oils based on Asian flowers and herbs. 9/F, The Landmark Bangkok, 138 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-252-9444. BTS Nana. www. ispathailand.com ZC1 LET’S RELAX — With branches around Thailand, and a wide variety of packages and trained masseuses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-662-6935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight.

More branches: www.letsrelaxspa.com ZB3

Le Spa with L’Occitane — Thailand’s first Le Spa with L’Occitane boasts a contemporary Thai style combined with an elegant French touch.

Treatments include the Golden Siamese Massage and Four Teas Ceremony. 9/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. between Soi 13-15, 02-126-9999. BTS Nana. ZB2

THANN SANCTUARY SPA — Treatments using their locally-made spa products offered, within a tranquil space bathed in soothing lights. 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.thann.info

THE ORIENTAL SPA — As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. XJ9

AESTHETIC CLINICS

PaNPURI ORGANIC SPA — Hidden behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of this luxury spa.

Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1199.

Open daily 10-8pm. www.panpuri.com YM18 SPA@tonson — This resort style spa includes nine treatment rooms and utilizes ancient Asian healing techniques through a range of treatments. The highlight has to be the special 4-hand massage.

5F, Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-658-7980. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-9pm. www.spatonson.com YM20 SPA BOTANICA — Surrounded by lush gardens, Spa Botanica is an urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best massage options. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd, 02-2344-8900. Open daily 9am-10pm. www. sukhothai.com XG13 S MEDICAL SPA — Founded by a renowned local anti-aging physician, this award-winning spa creates beauty from within, with a selection of integrated wellness programs. 2/2 Bhakdi Bldg., Wireless Rd., 02-253-1010. BTS Ploenchit. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.smedspa.com YL20

YM18

APEX SKIN CENTER — If you’re trying to solve some skin issues, check out this well established and popular skin center for state-of-the-art treatments from Botox to micro-dermabrasion. 3/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-644-8613/-4.

BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am-9pm. More branches: www.apexskincenter.com ZC4 ASTER SPRING — This international chain of skin care and health spas combines German techniques and products to provide effective facial and body treatments. The philosophy here is no-frills and no-nonsense, just good skin products that offer real results. L/F, Gaysorn, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-656-1421/2. BTS Chidlom. YM18 Dermaster — This high-end beauty institute from Korea, lets visitors enjoy a range of treatments, from cellulite reduction to Botox in a opulent 5-star setting. But the main highlight lies in Dermaster’s use of absorbable surgical sutures—a faster, less painful way to get a nip and tuck. 342 Ekkamai Rd., 02-714-4471. www.dermaster-thailand.com ZA7 PUTTHARAKSA — From non-invasive face lifts to the derma roller regeneration treatment, their aesthetic care is all about helping your body heal itself. Get further support through their anti-aging treatments. 1535 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-6336.

BTS Phrakhanong. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-9pm, Sun noon- 6pm. www.puttharaksaclinic.com

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HEALTH + WELLNESS

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Where Special | Wellness

I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok

I SPA, operator of 15 luxury Thai spas in China, has opened the first spa in

Thailand, bringing an exotic range of authentic health and beauty treatments from China, India, Indonesia, Japan and Thailand to pamper spa lovers with luxurious spa experiences.

Book now, quoting Where Thailand, and receive a 30% saving on all

treatments at I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok. The offer is valid until March 31, 2013.

I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok, Tel: 02-252-9444

Email: info@ispathailand.com, website: www.ispathailand.com

Rejuvenate your mind, body and soul at Spa@Tonson Spa@Tonson provides a Unique & Authentic Massage that is designed

to nourish your mind and body—through an array of massage techniques applied by trained professionals, that will leave you feeling relaxed and

revitalized. Double your sensation with our Signature 4-Hands Aromatherapy massage. A must try for true spa lovers.

Call for special promotion: 02-658-7980 / 081-954-4366. Location: Level 5 Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Bangkok. www.spatonson.com

S Medical Spa S Medical Spa is a complete Rejuvenation center providing a one-stopservice for Optimizing your Health, Appearance and Well-being with a

combination of Spa Therapies and Medical Programs. Services rely on our unique philosophy of “Rejuvenation through Integrated Health Care” in the luxury facilities “Where pleasure can Heal”.

S Medical Spa please call 02-253-1010 Call Center: 086-972-4540 www.smedspa.com, info@smedspa.com

February 2013 I WHERE thailand 27

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BANGKOK

ShopS+Services The Selected

The renovation and recent reopening of shopping mall Siam Center includes the addition of brand-new multi-label department store The Selected. The merchandise team has curated the very best in emerging Thai talent and features cool brands like Container (www.containerbag.net), which produces leather bags for dandy gentlemen and the funky-yet-classy swimwear of Timo (www.timotrunks.com). And it’s not just fashion-focused, The Selected also features locally-made skincare products like Gla (www.glanature.com)—we love their lip balm and charcoal shampoo, and Laksmi Mantra (www.facebook. com/L.Mantra), whose facial masks extracted from organic ingredients are a big hit with Bangkok’s hip crowd. 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000, 02-687-5000. Open daily 10am-9pm.

BTS Siam. www.simcenter.co.th YM16

Downtown Amarin Plaza ­— The mall’s Greco-Roman façade actually hides some unexpected gems.

ID1 on the first floor holds an interesting collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs.

496-502 Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-4704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com YM18 Central Chidlom ­— The closest thing Bangkok has to Harrods, Central Chidlom first opened in 1973 and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. It’s packed with leading brands, like Bottega Venetta, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the impressive Food Hall on the ground floor and the views from the international food court, up on the seventh. 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th YM19

CentralWorld ­— This massive shopping complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000-sq-meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for top brands like Topshop, Gap and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites like Singha Life and Disaya.

Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www. centralworld.co.th YM18

MBK Center ­— Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and at bargain prices. As a result,­the chaotic MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good. Still it’s fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the 6th floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www. mbk-center.co.th YM16

Erawan Bangkok ­— This mini-mall might look petite, but its three floors offer some high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including Yohji Yamamoto, Dior Homme and Lanvin. 494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com YM18

MBK

Gaysorn ­— Thailand’s leading high-end mall is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Celine) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1149.

BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com YM18 Platinum Fashion Mall ­— Platinum is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashionrelated from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even a single item is very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. www.platinumfashionmall. com YK18 28 W H E R E t ha i land I February 2013

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BANGKOK

ShopS+Services Siam Center ­— One of the city’s most iconic malls has just reopened after renovation and offers new, inspirational spaces for art and design, befitting its traditional reputation at the vanguard of the local fashion scene. The highlight is the Fashion Visionary space on the third floor, home to the flagship stores of top Thai designers like Something Boudoir, Theatre, Flynow III and a multi-Thai-label store The Selected. Rama 1 Rd., Pathumwan, 02-6581000. BTS SIam. www.siamcenter.co.th YM16

SIAM Center

Siam Discovery Center ­— The sister mall of Siam Center celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul last year, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussaud’s wax museum. It also remains the place to come for Thai furniture brands. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000.

BTS Siam. www.siamdiscoverycenter.co.th YM16

Elsewhere

MARKETS

Asiatique — This evenings-only shopping center is the first to sit on the banks of the Chao Phraya River and is themed according to the city’s architecture of old. Divided into several sections, ranging from the panoramic waterfront to a 100-year old refurbished sawmill, it includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashions and intriguing souvenirs, plus offers a variety of eateries, beer gardens and wine bars. The gigantic venue is also home to a new ferris wheel and the Joe Louis puppet theater and restaurant. You can catch the free ferry from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin). 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488. Open daily 4pm-midnight.

Chatuchak Market — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is one of the world’s largest weekend markets. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections, roughly categorized by the products on each offers. You can literally spend the weekend here amid the warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 10-24 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home-decor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.chatuchak.org

OP Place ­— Situated in a beautiful neoclassicalstyle building close to the river, this gorgeous luxury mall oozes charm from the sweeping wooden staircase to the antique lift. The plushly-carpeted halls are home to a host of high-end boutiques offering unique and rare antiques and artifacts from across Southeast Asia, handcrafted jewelry, bespoke tailors and fine art. The Ashwood Gallery that occupies the whole third floor is home to some particularly striking pieces. There’s also a free shuttle service to the neighboring OP Garden, which houses an art gallery, restaurants and high-end boutiques. 30/1 Soi 38, Charoenkrung Rd., 02266-0186. Open daily 10:30am-7pm. XJ11

Y

Talat Rod Fai — This al fresco night bazaar has become a hot spot for vintage finds, thanks to the mix of retro fashion, décor and toys for sale and because of the laid-back ambience created by the ad hoc bars and cafés. Kamphaeng Phet Rd. MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Fri-Sun, 4pmmidnight.

Siam Paragon ­— With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like H&M and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World, Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a cinema.

As well as lots of restaurants, there’s also a food court in the basement. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamparagon. co.th YM17

Sukhumvit Terminal 21 ­— One of Bangkok’s newest shopping complexes boasts an airport terminal-cum-international destinations theme. As you travel through the nine floors you can stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the higher floors offer a host of intriguing boutiques by Thai designers. There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21.co.th ZB3 The Emporium ­— Set in the heart of the city’s upscale residential area (home to Bangkok’s largest Japanese community), The Emporium offers luxury shopping without the crowds, thanks to its tenant portfolio, which includes brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Prada, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal, Thann and Jim Thompson. There are also lots of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative & Design Center on the top floor.

622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www.emporiumthailand.com ZC4

FebruarY 2013 I WHERE tha i l a n d 29

SHOPPING_FEB_2013_1_new.indd 29

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Y

BANGKOK

Navigate

overview

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Chao Phraya áÁ‹¹้Ó਌ҾÃÐÂÒ

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9

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Queen Sirikit National Conv. Centre Èٹ »ÃЪØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

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6

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Bangkok Overview Key

1 Asiatique

!0 Victory Monument

Main road

2 Chatuchak Market

!1 Yaowarat (China Town)

BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

3 Vimanmek Mansion

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumpini Park

MRT

5 Khaosan Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

!5 Siam Paragon

River/Klong (canal)

7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

!6 CentralWorld and Zen

8 Wat Po

!7 Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

9 Wat Arun

!8 Thailand Cultural Centre

Pier

Y

Rama III Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ 3

Find out the latest news on Thailand at Facebook.com/WhereThailand | Instagram @where_thailand

30 W H E R E t ha i land I february 2013

NAVIGATE_Jan_2013_new.indd 30

1/23/13 7:36 PM

BANGKOK

Navigate

Y

GET MOVING Mount in the heart of the Old Town, stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically-challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.

Z Dining

CANAL BOATS­—While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only one canal (klong) still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden 2

Art & Attractions

1. Kamthieng House B3 2. Koi Gallery A3 3. Thailand Creative and Design Centre (TCDC) C4

5

Sukhumvit7

6

F 9

Arena 10

29

Phrom Phong

Queen Sirikit National Convention Center Èٹ »ÃЪØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

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Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

22

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24

5

Soi Sukhumvit 40 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 40

Soi Sukhumvit 16 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 16

2

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19

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17

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Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

10

Soi Sukhumvit 55 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 55

Soi Sukhumvit 49 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 49

4

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5

Soi Sukhumvit 26 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 26

Soi Sukhumvit 14 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 14

Soi Sukhumvit 12 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 12

Soi Sukhumvit 10 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 10

16

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Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 34

7

E

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

Terminal 21 ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à·ÍÁÔ¹ÍÅ 21

4

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Soi Sukhumvit 39 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 39

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3

9

Soi Sukhumvit 31 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 31

20

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Soi Sukhumvit 4 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 4

1. Almeta Silk A3 2. Terminal 21 B3 3. The Emporium C4

30

Soi Sukhumvit 20 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 20

2

Soi Sukhumvit 23 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 23

13

Soi Sukhumvit 19 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 19

3

Soi Sukhumvit 15 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 15

Soi Sukhumvit 13 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 13

1 6, 12

21

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Shopping

1. Apoteka A1 2. BeerVault B2 3. Bed Supperclub A1 4. Clouds B6 5. Fat Gutz B6 6. Levels A1 7. Iron Fairies B6 8. Manhattan Bar B1 9. Mellow B6 10. Q Bar/Le Derriere A1 11. WTF C5 12. W XYZ A1

10

Nana TO MO CHIT STATION

3

TO BANG SUE STATION

1. Apex Medi Spa C6 2. Apex Skin Center C4 3. Dermaster A7 4. I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok C1 5. Oasis Spa C5 6. Le Spa B2 7. Let’s Relax B3

Nightlife

28

«ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 11

A

1

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Bumrungrad Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒÅ ºÓÃاÃÒÉ®Ã

Soi Sukhumvit 3 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 3

4

Health & Wellness

23. Seafood Bar D3 24. Smith C5 25. Soul Food Mahanakorn C6 26. Supanniga Eating Room C6 27. Taling Pling D5 28. The Local A3 29. Water Library B6 30. Xuan Mai A6

1. L’Appart B2 2. 11 Gallery B1 3. 4 Garcons B6 4. Above Eleven A1 5. Baan Ice C6 6. Bacco C6 7. Bo.Lan D5 8. Bonjour C6 9. Gossip A6 10. Harvey B6 11. Hazara D6 12. Indus E5 13. Isao C4 14. Khun Churn D7 15. Khua Kling Paksod C6 16. Mr. Jones’ Orphanage B5 17. Near Equal C5 18. Phuket Town C6 19. Quince C5 20. Rosabieng B1 21. Rossini’s C2 22. Ruen Mallika E4

I

J

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

february 2013 I WHERE THAILAND 31 15

TO MO CHIT STATION

16

17

18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ

19

20

21

Ratchathewi

ÃÒªà·ÇÕ NAVIGATE_Jan_2013_new.indd 31

Pantip Plaza ¾Ñ¹·Ô¾Â ¾ÅÒ«‹Ò

Platinum Mall á¾ÅµµÔ¹ÑÁ ÁÍÅÅ

1/23/13 7:36 PM

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ

AIRPORT LINk—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (tenminute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 15-20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B90 one-way and B150 roundtrip for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.

Y

BANGKOK

Navigate

7

8

Sam Yan ÊÒÁ‹ҹ

3

9

Chamchuri Square ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ

10

11 Lumpini Park ÊǹÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

TO NATIONAL STADIUM STATION

Si Lom ÊÕÅÁ

Chulalongkorn Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒŨؿÒŧ¡Ã³

12 ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

Rama 4 Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 4

3

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F

Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§

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1 Silom Complex

Thaniya Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ

Soi Convent «Í¤͹áǹµ 5

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Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ 3

4

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P

Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡Ãا

7 4

OP Place

22

1. Blue Elephant I13 2. Celadon G13 3. D’Sens F10 4. Dine in the Dark H13 5. Eat Me G11 8 6. The Kitchen Table H12 7. LeWatNormandie J9 Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃس 8. Nahm, Glow G13 9. Niu’s I10 10. Ruen Urai G8 Memorial Bridge Pier 11. Scarlett ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍH10 Êоҹ¾Ø·¸ 12. Somtum Der F11

23

2 2

EXPRESS RIVER Boats—25These fast and 24

X

frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a Tha Tien Piergreat way to get a different perspective on Tha the·‹Phrachan city,Pier Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã ·‹ÒàµÕ¹ as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan 1 Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from 9 B9 to B32 depending 1 1 on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket Wat Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ Wat Po ÇѴ⾸Ô์ (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river.

skytrain/underground—The Wat Rajapardit ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃдÔÉ°

Bangkok Skytrain (BTS) stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city.

There are twoWatÇÑmain lines: the Silom Line, which Suthat ´ÊØ·Ñȹ runs from across the river in Wongwian Yai to National Stadium; and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines.

Shopping

TO BEARING STATION

1. OP Place J9

11

Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

R

Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã TO WONGWIAN YAI STATION

1. Body Tune G10 2. Devarana Spa F10 3. Divana Virtue Spa I12 4. Health Land G13 5. So SPA F12 6. Spa Botanica G13 7. The Oriental Spa J9

µ

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Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢

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St. Louis Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒÅૹµ ËÅØÂÊ

Soi Silom 1 9 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 1 5

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9

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Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

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2

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H

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6

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ã㵌

G

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ

10

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Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

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TO BANG SUE STATION

5

12

Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ãà˹×Í

2

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

14

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Art & Attractions

1. Gossip Gallery I10 2. H Gallery H11 IndiaËŒEmporium Ò§ÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ÍÔ¹à´Õ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ 3. Kathmandu Photo Gallery I11 4. Serindia Gallery J9 5. Silom Galleria I10

The Old Siam Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ China World ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ䫹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´

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main Central Business District before turning 26 27 North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past 28 Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) Chatuchak and ending at Bang Sue station.

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There are interchange stations at Sukhumvit (MRT) /Asok (BTS) and Silom (MRT)/Sala Daeng (BTS).

Fares are B15-B40 for both trains. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get 4 special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www.bangkokmetro.co.th.

3 Phra Athit Pier Note that the BTS and MRT use different ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍҷԵ ticketing systems.

Wat Chana Songkram ÇÑ´ª¹Ðʧ¤ÃÒÁ

TAXIS—In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for thePolice first two kilometers. Despite their Station ʶҹյÓÃǨ many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price.

Democracy Monument ͹ØÊÒÇÃÕ »ÃЪҸԻäµÂ

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tralia 02-2514-173, Austria 02-287-3970, Belgium 02-679-5465, Brazil 02-679-8567, Bulgaria 02-3916180, Cambodia 02-636-0540, China 02-245-7043, ATMS—ATMs are very common in Bangkok and Czech Republic 02-255-3027, Denmark 02-213Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์ can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located 2021, Egypt 02-262-0236, Finland 02-256-9306, outside of 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able France 02-266-8250, Ghana 02-641-5214, Germany to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

Chong Nonsi 02-287-9000, Greece 02-679-1462, ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ Iceland 0211 237-8010, India 02-258-0300, Indonesia 02-2522 City Viva 6 3135, Iran 02-259-0611, Ireland 02-223-0876, Israel Dining 4 1. Supatra Riverside P26 02-204-9200, Italy 02-252-6151, Korea (South) St. Louis Hospital 2. The Deck Q23 âç¾ÂÒºÒÅૹµ ËÅØÂÊ 02-247-7537, Laos 02-539-6667, Malaysia 02-679Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ 2190, Mexico 02-285-0815, Morocco 02-653-2444, Health & Wellness 3 3 1. Wat Po Q24 Myanmar 02-233-2237,Pan Nepal 02-391-7240, NethRd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹ 9 erlands 02-254-7701, Norway 02-302-6415, New Art & Attractions Surasak ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ 1. Grand Palace/Museum of Textiles Q25 Zealand 02-254-2530, Nigeria 02-391-5197, Pakistan Soi Silom 1 9 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 2. Museum Siam1 Q23 02-253-0288, Peru 1 5 02-260-6243, Philippines 3. National Gallery Q27 02-259-0139, Portugal 02-234-7435, Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØRussia Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢ ÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ 024. National Museum Q27 268-1169, Saudi Arabia 02-639-2999, Switzerland 5. Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall S26 6. Royal Barge Museum P27 02-253-0156, Singapore 02-286-2111, Spain 02-2527. The Queen’s Gallery S27 6112, Sri-Lanka 02-331-6384, Sweden 02-302-0360, Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔ Þ¡Ãا Saphan Taksin 8. Wat Arun (Temple 7 ÊоҹµÒ¡ÊÔ ¹ of Dawn) P22 Taiwan 02-670-0220, Tunisia 02-692-5071, Turkey 9. Wat Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald 7 02-274-7262, United Arab Emirates 02-639-9820, Buddha) Q25 4 OP Place Oriental Pier United Kingdom 02-305-8333, United States of Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕ¹àµÅ Shopping ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã America 02-205-4000, Syria 02-254-7961, Vietnam 1. SUPPORT Foundation Shop P25 TO WONGWIAN YAI STATION 02-251-5838

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo 10 opportunities.

However, there is no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a G price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Soi Convent «Í¤͹áǹµ major EMBASSIES & CONSULATES­—Argentina 02-259-0401, Aus5 ¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

TUK-TUKs—Tuk-tuks are a noisy but of Silomfun Soi way 4

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India Emporium ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ÍÔ¹à´Õ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ

The Old Siam Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ China World ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ䫹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´

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Nightlife

1. Hyde & Seek M21 2. The Speakeasy N19 3. The St Regis Bar N18

Health & Wellness 1. Aster Spring M18 2. Elemis Spa N18 3. i.Sawan N18 4. Panpuri Spa M18 5. Romrawin N19 6. S Medical Spa L20

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Royal Bangkok Sports Club

2

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Sarasin Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒÃÊÔ¹

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Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃҪǧ¤

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7. Spa@Tonson M20 8. Thann Sanctuary Spa M18

Shopping

1. Amarin Plaza M18 2. Central Chidlom M19 3. CentralWorld M18 4. Erawan Bangkok M18 5. Gaysorn M18 6. MBK Center M16 7. Pantip Plaza K17 8. Platinum Mall K18 9. Siam Center/Siam Discovery Center M16 10. Siam Paragon M17

Art & Attractions

1. 100 Tonson Gallery N20 2. Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) M16 3. Jim Thompson Art Center & House L1 5 4. Madame Tussauds M16 5. Siam Ocean World M17 6. Sombat Permpoon Gallery L21

vat refunds­—Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers to get your form stamped. Then, after check-in and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts not exceeding B30,000, will be made in cash (Thai baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refund amounts exceeding B30,000, will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

Hospitals­—Bumrungrad International, (Sukhumvit Soi 1-3, 02-667-1000, emergency 02-667-2999), Bangkok Hospital (Soi Soonvijai, Petchaburi Rd., 02-310-3000), BNH Hospital (Convent Rd., 02-686-2700), Samitivej Sukhumvit (Sukhumvit 49, 02-711-8181), Siriraj SiPH (Phrannok Rd., 1474).

Essential Numbers Emergency Services (Fire Brigade, Police) 191 Airport Rail Link 02-308-5600. http://airportraillink.railway.co.th Bangkok Taxi Call Center 1681 / 1661 Bangkok Mass Transit System (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th BTS Tourist Information Center : 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th Bangkok Metro (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6ammidnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th Chao Phraya Express Boat Call Center 02-6236001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com Suvanbhumi International Airport 1722/02-1321888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) – 1672. www.tourismthailand.org Tourist Police 24-hour call center 1155

34 W H E R E t ha i land I february 2013

NAVIGATE_Jan_2013_new.indd 34

Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃس

Memorial Brid ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊо

Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

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Chit Lom Rd. ¶¹¹ªÔ´ÅÁ

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1/23/13 7:36 PM

21 Things we LOve about Thailand

3

5

6 1 Taking a train ride along the poignant Death Railway next to the River Kwai in Kanchanaburi.

2 Snorkeling in the crystal clear waters off the beaches of the Andaman Island of Koh Tachai.

3 Sipping a warm cup of coffee while looking out over the mist at Moncham, situated within the Nong Hoi Royal Project in Chiang Mai.

4 Learning how to cook some Thai food and supporting a worthwhile local charity at the Helping Hands Cooking School (www. cookingwithpoo.com).

5 Getting a tension relieving Thai massage at the spiritual home of the art, Wat Pho in Bangkok. (www. watpho.com).

!4

achingly-cool style of the Woo Bar at the W Bangkok (www.whotels.com).

8

9

7 Taking a bicycle tour around the floating market, lush plantations, and crumbling temples of Bang Krajao.

For a guided tour and bike rental, try www.spiceroads.com.

!2 Admiring the work of established

!7 Studying the exquisitely crafted

and emerging contemporary Thai and international artists at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BTS National Stadium, www.bacc.or.th).

models of gold-gilded royal barges, embroidered silk screens and more at the Arts of the Kingdom (www. artsofthekingdom.com) exhibition at the Anantasamakhom Throne Hall.

8 Catching a glimpse of what Bangkok used to be like with a klong tour around the old canals (klongs) of Nonthaburi from Saphan Taksin Pier.

!3 Sitting ringside for a Thai boxing match at Lumpini Stadium (Rama IV Rd., MRT Lumphini, www. muaythailumpini.com).

!8 Staying overnight at one of the

9 Camping out under the stars before making an early morning trek to see the sunrise at the top of Phu Kradueang in Loei (042-871222/458, www.dnp.go.th).

!4 Enjoying the creative Thai dishes

!9 Learning to kite surf on Hua Hin

on offer at Chef Ian Kittichai’s Issaya Siamese Club (4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., 02-672-9040-1. www. issaya.com).

Beach, one of the best spots thanks to the shallow water, long flat beach and strong winds all year round (try www. kiteboardingasia.com).

!0 Slurping up a bowl of authentic

!5 Catching a free, traditional Thai

@0 Staying up late, or getting up early,

Hokkien Noodles in the heart of Phuket’s historic old town at Mee Ton Poh (214/7 Phuket Rd., 076-216-293, open daily 10am-6pm).

puppet show at Bangkok’s Baan Silapin artist community (02-8685279, thaipuppeteer@gmail.com).

to experience the chaos of the daily flower trading at Pak Klong Talat, Thailand’s largest flower market.

!6 Escaping the stresses of modern

@1 Exploring the rich Lanna culture

living at the Buddhadasa Indapanno Archives (www.bia.or.th, facebook. com/suanmokkhbangkok).

and amazing ancient temples on the charming streets of Chiang Mai.

!1 Browsing the quirky stalls 6 Being one of the first to enjoy the

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filled with authentic retro items at Talat Rod Fai night market (MRT Kamphaeng Phet).

houseboat rafts on Cheow Larn Lake in the stunning Kao Sok National Park.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

February 2013 I WHERE th a i l a n d 35

21 THINGS_FEB_2013_1_New.indd 35

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