Where® Thailand March 2013

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contents where

®

l THAILAND l MARCH 2013

The Guide

Bangkok 17 dining

Ice cream cafes, the best street eats and rustic recipes plus the city's latest food news

21 Business Traveler Useful listings to support all of your potential business needs

22 arts+Culture The hottest art exhibitions from cabaret shows to the magical power of amulets

5

23 nightlife A magical new bar and the best pubs serving up their own brews

Features

26 Health+Wellness Top spas and clinics plus a new less painful way to remove unwanted hair

05 l Hidden Gems Exploring Sukhumvit's lesser known neighborhoods.

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28 SHOPS+Services Give your wardrobe a lift with this new wonder store

07 l Do your bit Different ways to give something

30 Maps

back during your Thai vacation.

Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin

Escapes

also inside

12 travel News

4 Hot dates

The latest deals, promotions and

12 Managing Editor/Publisher Nick Measures Editor Top Koaysomboon General Manager James Fuss Managing Editor Grégoire Glachant Sub-editor Carl Dixon Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapon

15 hot stuff

events around the Kingdom.

30 navigate 35 21 things we love

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

Marketing Manager Arunee Wilson Marketing Executive Natta Yantasri Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant

MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

Contributor Dominic Hanratty

Mvp | National Sales Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.

Com

Mvp | Cartography And Circulation General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Cover Cabochon Hotel Cover by Panita Thiraphapong

Morris Comunications Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris Iii President William S. Morris Iv

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/WhereThailand @where_thailand

Mvp | Creative Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

Mvp | Technology & Manufacturing Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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Where hot dates March 22- 25

Disney On Ice! Princesses and Heroes Eight of Disney’s leading heroines, joined by their respective heroes, take to the ice in this sub-zero rendition of their quests for true love. Classic characters like Cinderella and Ariel are joined by more recent additions to the Disney lineage (Rapunzel from Tangled and Tiana from Princess & the Frog) in this spectacle of elegant choreography and enchanting special effects. English show 11am on Mar 23. At Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd., Nonthaburi. Tickets are B600-2,000, available from www.thaiticketmajor.com.

March 24

Bloc Party

MARCH 6

Santana The Sentient Tour This month sees the return to Bangkok of one of the world’s most iconic guitarists, the 10-time Grammy Award winner, Carlos Santana. He’ll be playing legendary singles like “Smooth,” “Supernatural” and “The Game of Love.” He will also be joined on-stage by the massively popular Thai country-rock band Carabao, who have enjoyed over 30 years at the forefront of Thailand’s rock scene. How’s that for the perfect two-in-one act? At Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd., Nonthaburi.

Tickets are B1,000-5,000, available from www.thaiticketmajor.com

British indie-rock sensation Bloc Party make their debut in Bangkok as part of promoting their fourth studio album, Four. Bloc Party first achieved critical acclaim with their platinum-selling debut album Silent Alarm in 2005. Each subsequent release has been fondly received by their army of loyal fans and the music press alike. The first single from their new album, Octopus, marks a return to the guitar-driven sound of their earlier work, which should please indie-rock purists. BCC Hall Central Plaza Ladprao, Bangkok. MRT Phahon Yothin. Tickets are B2,00, available from www.thaiticketmajor.com.

March 27-April 7

Bangkok International Motor Show The annual Bangkok International Motor Show roars into town for its 34th year, showcasing the best of new and classic production cars and motorbikes alongside innovative concepts from around the world. As well as the cars the event also features special events like car tuning shows and off-road competitions. At Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd., Nonthaburi. Open daily noon-10pm.

Free entry.

March 29-30

A Midsummer Night’s Dream March 8-10

Mar 23

30 Years of BSO

Depapepe 10th Anniversary Live in Bangkok

The Bangkok Symphony Orchestra take to the main hall of the Thailand Cultural Centre to celebrate their 30th anniversary. Conducted by Michel Tilkin and with special guest Siripong Tiptan on the violin, the program consists of Beethoven, Max Brusch and Rachmaninoff. The orchestra is a non-profit organization and is almost unique among symphony orchestras in that it receives no public funding at all.

Instead, it relies entirely on ticket sales, sponsors and donors to keep going—a testament to just how impressive their performances are. At Thailand Cultural Centre, Thiam Ruam Mit Rd., Bangkok. MRT Thailand Cultural Centre. Tickets are B400-2,000, available from www.thaiticketmajor.com.

The famous acoustic guitar duo from Japan, Miura Takuya and Tokuoka Yoshinari, are celebrating their 10th anniversary this year with a tour of several cities. Much loved by acoustic fans, the duo will be serenading Bangkok with hit singles like “Start,” “Wedding Bell,” “Summer Palace” and “Kazami Dori.” At BCC Hall Central Plaza Ladprao, Bangkok. MRT Phahon Yothin. Tickets are B800-3,000, available from www.thaiticketmajor.com

This March, the Aksra Theatre will host Thailand’s first-ever performance of A Midsummer Night’s Dream in celebration of the centenary of the birth of prolific English composer, Benjamin Britten. Darren Royston, who has held the role of Period Dance Consultant at the National Theatre, London, and has previously directed La Boheme and Carmen at the Thailand Cultural Centre Bangkok, directs this operatic adaptation of Shakespeare’s most famous comedy. The setting of rural Athens is here transposed to a sacred forest in northern Asia with spirits of the forest created by choreographer Jittee Chompee of cutting-edge dance group 18 Monkeys.

Joining him on stage will be a crop of rising stars from Thai and British opera and dance. At Aksra Theatre, King Power Complex, Rangam Rd., Phaya Thai, Bangkok. BTS Victory Monument. Tickets are B800-2,500 on March 29 or B800-1,500 on March 30, available from www.thaiticketmajor.com.

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feature Where Y 2 Quince Open daily 11:30-1am. 02-662-4478.

Just up the road from the Cabochon is the equally handsome Quince. One of the hottest eateries in town at the moment, its intriguing and inventive “market” menu has a real focus on sustainability, ethical eating and local produce. That means simple, but delicious treats like roast carrots with shallot, honey and poppy seed and whole shoulder of lamb.

It’s all served in a space that mixes industrial elements with vintage touches like European furniture and posters. Read more in The Guide Dining, page 17.

Secret Sukhumvit

A neighborhood guide to the hidden restaurants, shops and more to be discovered between Sukhumvit 45 and 55.

3 Casa Pagoda Open daily 11am-8pm. 02-258-1917.

Thai Lao Yeh at Cabochon Hotel

S

ukhumvit is one of the best known streets in the city—and the longest—stretching all the way from the Cambodian border to the heart of the city. The Bangkok stretch is easy to explore thanks to the BTS line that runs along its length. As a result it’s proved a popular area for expatriates and locals alike, thanks to its great restaurant, shopping and nightlife choices. While districts like Asoke and Thonglor have always been busy, new hotspots have been appearing between BTS Phrom Phong and Thong Lor stations in recent months.

Maybe not the most practical shop for those who are just visiting Bangkok, the retro delights offered up by Casa Pagoda are pretty hard to resist and could push you over your baggage allowance. The airy 600-sq-meter, two-story space is filled with an eclectic mix of tasteful home decor items, ranging from French country style wooden dining tables to industrial-chic leather couches to hemp rugs sporting giant Baroque prints. But smaller decorative pieces are also available.

SOI 45 1 Cabochon Hotel & Residence Restaurant open 11am-2pm, 6-10.30pm.

Rooms from B8,600/2 nights. 02-2592871/-3. www.cabochonhotel.com Taiwanese interior designer Eugene Tan’s love for classical elegance is clear in the grandeur of the eight-room Cabochon Hotel, tucked down this quiet dead-end soi. Completed last year, the building offers an imposing white neoclassical façade while the interior recreates the home of a Chinese tycoon in the heyday of 1920s

Shanghai. Inside you’ll find an Aladdin’s cave of vintage items from animal skulls to huge Louis Vuitton trunks. Even if you’re not staying here, The Joy Luck Club lounge and bar supplies an ambience that’s part speakeasy and part library, while the Thai restaurant Thai Lao Yeh is furnished with traditional wood, marble tables and old prints. It serves up dishes influenced by Lao, Northern and Northeastern cuisines.

The newest addition comes from Wooden Submarine, a clothing and accessories store that lets you browse vintage Americana from confederate flags to old prison vests.

casa pagoda

References Grooming

Eat

Stay

Drink

Shop Quince

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Where feature SOI 47 4 Rainhill

5 Wine Connection

Sukhumvit Soi 47.

Sat on the corner of Sukhumvit 47, this mini-mall has a distinctly Japanesetheme to cater for the large Japanese expat population who call this neighborhood home. The five-story venue, clustered around an impressive water feature offers plenty of dining options from Thai restaurant Som Tum Dok Rak (2/F, 02-863-8593. Open daily 10am-10:30pm) to Japanese Udon noodle venue Marugame Seimen and contemporary sushi bar Kinki (3/F, 02-261-7204. www.kinki.co.th) as well as some quirky shops. See the following individual entries for highlight venues.

Open daily 11am-1:30pm. G/F, Rainhill, 02-261-7217.

rainhill

One of the latest branches of one of Thailand’s most popular wine bar chains, from the people who arguably kick-started Thais’ relatively new love affair with wine, this is also one of its most visually striking. Sporting a design that mixes lots of metal and glass, the conservatory vibe is enhanced by trees growing through the structure. The menu is bistro classics but the real draw is the affordable wine list, and a decent imported beer selection. The added appeal of a DJ on weekends means this place is normally pretty busy.

6 Him and Her Open Tue-Sun 1-9pm. 2/F, Rainhill, 02-261-7233.

Owned by couple and self-confessed fashionistas, Diloklarp “Him” Junthachotibutr and Ploy “Paloy” Horwang, Him & Her started off as a vintage clothing store where the two curated hip items from around the world.

Since moving to their new location they’ve also started designing their own women’s wear ranging from dresses to pants, which are proving popular with local stars and celebrities. wine connection

7 Apostrophe’s !2

Open daily 10:30am-9pm. G/F, Rainhill, 083-110-0445.

@0

!1 !3

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Soi 45 BTS Phrom phong

3 2

Soi 55

!8

Soi 53

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!9 Soi 51

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Soi 49

Soi 47

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!5 !0

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This is Bangkok’s second branch of this Japanese-style zakka store, a small shop selling everything from cute tableware to linen handicrafts—all of which follow a similar theme. Browse through their collection of handcrafted pillow cases and tote bags, and then sit back and sip a bag of their homemade lemon soda.

!4

Sukhumvit Road

BTS Thong Lo

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feature Where Y

shuffle

Near Equal

8 Shuffle

9 Near Equal

Open Mon-Fri 5pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-midnight. 1/F, Rainhill, 02-261-6992.

Open daily 11:30am-10pm. 02-258-1564.

The former chef of one of Bangkok’s best gourmet burger joints recently moved over to Rainhill and this new bistro-style diner up on the second level. The décor follows an industrial chic setup with bare brick walls, steel painted black and lamps dangling from the ceiling—and gets extra points for the outdoor terrace overlooking Sukhumvit Road. The menu embraces comforting dishes like chicken wings and burgers but also offers more unique options like peach and prosciutto salad with brie or the “rustic quesadilla” with smoked salmon, mornay sauce and chive sour cream. They stock decent wines and a few American craft beers and also promise a special brunch menu soon.

If you have the energy to walk a little further down the leafy Soi 47 you’ll come to this 60s-style former home. The second floor boasts wooden walls, floors and colored screens while downstairs there’s a selection of Thai furniture, handicrafts and knickknacks for sale. The kitchen whips up artfully-presented Thai dishes like stir-fried pea sprouts with oyster sauce, tom yum kung and fried chicken with lemongrass.

Getting around While most of the venues listed here are within walking distance of the main Sukhumvit Road you can explore deeper into Sukhumvit Soi 49 using the mini-trucks (ka-por in Thai). Expect to pay around B20 per trip, no matter how many people are on board. For other sois, you will see motorcycle taxis at their entrances, and they should cost you around B10-40, depending on how far you are going. (Perhaps not advised for the faint of heart, though.)

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Where feature SOI 49 !0 Smith Open daily 5pm-midnight. 02-261-0515/6. www.smith-resturant.com The dream team behind Hyde & Seek bar at Phloenchit (see The Guide Nightlife, page 24), chef Peter Pitakwong, star chef Ian Kittichai (who also owns Thai restaurant Issaya Siamese Club) and mixologist Chanond Purananda combined forces again to create this new dining spot. Smith gets its name from its focus on craft, as in “blacksmith,” which in the food world, translates to the global nose-to-tail trend of eating every part of the animal from the tongue to the trotters. The décor also has plenty of nods to this ambition, with an industrial vibe consisting of a corrugated steel façade and old butchers tools and pictures of cuts of meat on the cement walls.

The place has just added a chef’s table to let you get up close and personal with both chefs (B3,800-B5,800 per person) and remains popular with the city’s socialites.

Chef Peter Pitakwong at smith

Dan Hetrakul at grease

!1 Peng You

!3 Grease

Open daily 8am-11pm. 02-662-6169.

Open Mon-Sat 6pm-late. 02-662-6120/1.

A brand new Chinese-style cafe offering a traditional breakfast, snacks and refreshing drinks in a cozy yet contemporary space.

For a full description see The Guide Dining, page 20.

Newspaper heir Dan Hetrakul chose to eschew the hustle and bustle of the usual party districts and open Grease, a swanky all-in-one nightspot, on the lesser known Sukhumvit 49. Situated in two former shophouses and spread over four floors, the complex squeezes in a bar, club, lounge and restaurant. Each floor is decked out in different themes. There’s the geometricallystyled, high-ceilinged restaurant and wine bar Any Winehouse on the first; the discoinspired dance floor LSD on the second kitted out with interactive-LED surfaces, laser lights and mirrors; and the chill-out living room called Cry Baby, which will offer a space for musical newcomers to perform live. The final piece in the jigsaw is the soon-to-open al fresco rooftop bar called Top-Loader for drinks under the stars.

!2 Duly Open daily 10am-7pm. 02-662-6647/8.

Regarded as one of the most sophisticated menswear brands in Thailand, Duly stocks ready-to-wear formal clothes, and offers a tailoring service for suits and shirts, even for international visitors. (They can also deliver orders by mail.) They provide a range of different options, from the buttons you want to the types of stitching and a huge choice of quality shirt fabrics from the likes of Thomas Mason in the UK, which was founded back in 1796. They also recently rolled out a range of business shoes made at a century-old workshop in Italy.

peng you

sindy lim

!4 Sindy Lim Open Thu-Tue 10am-8pm. 02-2600635/0793. Reservations required.

Located on the second floor of an unassuming building at the mouth of the soi, Sindy Lim has been operating as a high-end salon for nearly ten years. Lim has a degree in hairstyling from the UK and is well known for tending to the hair of local celebrities whose privacy is guaranteed. Needless to say reservations are a must.

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feature Where Y SOI 53 !8 Baan Khanitha at Fifty Three

zudrangma records

SOI 51 !5 WTF Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. 02-662-6246. www.wtfbangkok.com This hybrid bar and exhibition space serves solid cocktails, good bar snacks and plays host to interesting DJs. The warm European café style vibe is given further indie cachet by the host of one-off gigs, poetry nights, short story events and even pop-up restaurants they put on, often at the additional space over the road (aptly named Opposite). Stay up to date with their fast-changing events line-up at www. wtfbangkok.com

!6 Zudrangma Records Open Tue-Sun 2-9pm. 088-891-1314. www.zudrangmarecords.com Situated right next door to WTF is this equally hip record store. Set up by DJ Maft Sai, who has made a name for himself championing traditional molam music (Thai/Laos country music), it’s a treasure trove of old vinyl gems from 70s disco to rare Afrofunk tunes. Drop by for a rummage and to find out news about their popular Isaan Dancehall events

@0 Purr Cat Cafe

Open Tue-Thu 11am-8pm and 11am-9pm on Open daily 11am-2pm, 5-11pm. 02-259-8530/1. weekends. 02-108-3604. www.facebook.com/ PurrCatCafeClub Baan Khanitha at Fifty Three is probably the Cat lovers missing their pets back home may edgiest outlet of this chain of Thai restaurants. want to make the trek a little deeper into the It aims to attract a wide audience: from a soi to experience this former home, which has young, hip crowd at the funky terrace and been converted into a cat grooming salon, bar, to wealthy Thai families and expatriates café and gallery. The café itself serves coffee in the lovely colonial-style house at the back and baked treats (for us) and cat food while of this leafy compound. The menu features giving you the chance to play with the store’s a suitably expansive range of Thai, Western selection of furry friends. In the gallery, you and fusion dishes from spaghetti pla khem to can purchase quirky cat-themed artworks somtam (papaya salad). created by the celebrity owner.

!9 Bacco Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-midnight. 02-662-4538.

Bacco is arguably Bangkok’s first real “osteria,” which is equivalent to an English “gastropub” or Japanese “izakaya” (“drinking restaurant”)—but an upscale version, where Thais and expats in the neighborhood enjoy wine, conversation and tasty food in a lively Old World tavern atmosphere. The menu is incredibly broad, offering up over 300 dishes, covering salads, pastas, pizza and risottos, as well as more intriguing options like piadas and cassoni along with a good selection of wines.

purr cat cafe

!7 Agalico Open Fri-Sun 10am-6pm. www.agalico.co.th.

02-662-5857 ext. 111.

With its all-white tearoom, charming leafy courtyard garden, graceful glass gazebo, homemade scones, apple crumble and wide selection of teas, Agalico offers up a quintessentially English country tea room vibe in the heart of Bangkok. Do note it’s only open on weekends, though.

baan khanitha at fifty three

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Where around thailand

Holiday Helpers

Organic Farm

How you can give something back during your trip to Thailand.

Elephant Nature

V

oluntourism is catching on in Thailand and throughout Asia with a growing number of options for those who want to leave more than just their carbon footprint on their holiday.

Kru Bannok One of Thailand’s longest-running volunteer programs started out under the Mirror Foundation in 1991, aiming to educate children in rural areas. So far, Kru Bannok has organized more than 150 trips that have drawn thousands of participants. Volunteers are required to travel to the project’s headquarters in Chiang Rai, before moving on to designated villages. Periods of stay vary from three days to basically as long as you wish. Fees for short-term stays are as little as B1,500-2,500, which pays for your meals and transportation. The next trip will be to Baan Plaeng 2, Doi Tao district, Chiang Mai, from Mar 21-24. jadadbannok@hotmail.com, www.bannok.com/volunteer. (The website is in Thai but feel free to contact them with enquiries in Englishw.)

Elephant Nature Foundation There are a number of famous elephant camps close to Chiang Mai but, if you want to do more than just photograph these majestic creatures, then the Elephant Nature Foundation (053-27-2855. www. elephantnaturefoundation.org) is a real conservation center. Nestled in the beautiful Mae Taeng Valley, it offers a natural environment for injured or abused animals to recover and welcomes visitors and volunteers. A day at the camp starts with a bit of an education, learning about the individual elephants and how they were rescued. But the real fun is to be had bathing and feeding the elephants. You can also sleep over for the chance to follow the elephants into the neighboring jungle and fields the next morning. For more information about how to get involved visit www. elephantnaturefoundation.org

kru bannok

Wild Animal Rescue Foundation

If you are a real animal lover then you might be interested in the work of the The Wild Animal Rescue Foundation of Thailand (02-712-9715, www.warthai.org). They are always looking for outgoing volunteers to work at its three projects: The Gibbon Rehabilitation in Phuket, The Wild Animal Rescue and Education Center and The Sea Turtle Conservation Project in Ranong. You will assist the animal keepers, build and clean cages, help with their ongoing research projects, as well as inform visitors to the centers about wildlife protection.

Habitat for Humanity

An international organization that specializes in building homes for those in need. As they don’t want house owners to sit back and watch us do the dirty work, volunteers work shoulder to shoulder with them. Programs and locations vary so check their website for more info. www.habitatthailand.org

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around thailand Where Y A Volunteer’s View

Mangrove Project A great option for those with limited time during their stay in Bangkok, this organization runs day-trips to the coastal district of Khlongkhlone in Samut Songkram. Cruise pristine coastlines, monkey around with the crab-eating macaques, go “coast boarding” (basically wakeboarding in shallow, muddy waters), hang with fishermen, chill on bamboo platforms three kilometers offshore while enjoying fresh seafood—oh, and plant mangrove trees to help restore local ecological systems. Meet at Victory Monument at 7am to take a van to Samut Songkram. Spend the day helping locals replant mangrove trees and exchange knowledge about environmental conservation before returning to Bangkok at 7pm. It costs B2,530 per person/day.

Get more information at 085-833-9218, www.bangkokvanguards.com. They do also offer longer volunteer experiences if you’re interested.

Supaporn Bangmung, a finance manager, from Bangkok is just one tourist who decided to get involved with Kru Bannok (see left).

“I just got bored of taking my own photographs at tourist attractions. Sure, it makes me happy, but I believe I can also offer something good to others, too, by being a giver, rather than a receiver.”

Her first trip was to Chiang Mai, where she ended up going it alone. “My friend couldn’t make it, so I had to go by myself. But as everybody there had a voluntary mind, I was warmly welcomed. We taught children as well as prepared activities for them over a couple of days.”

Supaporn explains that nothing compares to the feeling of being a giver. “I’m not a kid-friendly person.

But once I interacted with them closer, I was touched by their sincerity. I never thought that I would be so important to them. I also proved to myself that I can do things to help others.”

On top of emotional fulfillment, you also get a chance to make new friends.

“Volunteers come from all sorts of backgrounds.

One man I met was there to get over his heartbreak.

Ages vary, too, from a fiveyear-old kid tagging along with his mother to retired executives. But all of them are friendly and willing to make new friends.”

Supaporn adds that in order to be a good volunteer it pays to have the right attitude—sage advice for any traveler. “You need to be an empty glass and just be happy with everything that goes your way—even if it’s not what you were expecting. Everything is a life lesson.”

— Top Koaysomboon

Organic Farm - Laos A bit further across the border, Vang Vieng in Laos has shed its backpacker paradise image, making volunteering there much more pleasurable these days. Located north of the Song River, some 4km from Vang Vieng town center, the Organic Farm is the hub for several community projects including chemical-free mulberry tea farming and goat cheese production.

It welcomes volunteers who can help out either working on the farm or teaching English to kids in the village. You can go anytime and stay as long as you wish.

Accommodation is 30,000-250,000 kip (B120-1,000) per night, depending on your choice of lodging. www.laofarm.org

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Where ESCAPES

Travel News Grand openings, hot promotions and special events throughout Thailand

Cape Panwa’s Absolute Suite

PHUKET

Absolute Sanctuary

Lanna Folklife Museum

Glow Elixir

CHIANG MAI

PHANG NGA

Chiang Mai just got a new exhibition space the Lanna Folklife Museum, which is designed to narrate the rich history and culture of northern Thailand (Lanna).

The museum is sat in the imposing Neoclassical former district court building, located right opposite the Three Kings Monument. Waxworks, textiles, religious sculptures, wooden decorative ornaments and tools are all on display to help relate the history and cultural traditions of the region through the eyes of the inhabitants.

Entry is B90 for adults and B40 for kids.

Phra Pokklao Rd., Muang, Chiang Mai, 053217-793. Open Tue-Sun 8:30am-5pm. www. cmocity.com

ZincInvision, the hospitality management company behind Villa Maroc and Glow hotels, just unveiled its latest beachfront property Glow Elixir Koh Yao Yai late last year. The sea-front resort features 35 villas decked out in a modern tropical decor, starting from a 44-sq-meter superior villa (which looks more like a five-star bungalow) to a two-bedroom, 184-sq-meter pool villa. Facilities include an all-day dining restaurant, two bars, a gym and free Wi-Fi. Note: Even though it’s in Phang Nga, the closer airport is Phuket so book your air tickets accordingly. Rates are from B3,000 net. Koh Yao Yai, Phang Nga, 087-808-3838, www.zinchospitality. com/glowbyzinc

Local Heritage

Glowing Island

Cape Panwa Hotel has just unveiled its impressive new The Absolute Suite.

Spread over a 530-sq-meter, two-level structure, it features two bedrooms and 360-degree sea views through the floorto-ceiling windows. The contemporary space features ivory hues and warm woods, finished off with Sino-Portuguese style tiles. The real highlight, though, is probably the huge 15 x 6 meter private pool with hilltop views. Guests booking the suite receive complimentary airport transfers, in-suite breakfast with their own private chef, minibar, laundry, private lift, 24-hour butler service, Wi-Fi and use of the hotel’s Mercedes Benz to zip around Phuket. Rates are now B35,000 per night for both bedrooms. Sakdidej Rd., Cape Panwa, Phuket, 076-391-123/-5, www. capepanwa.com PHUKET

Low Season Starts Outrigger Laguna Phuket Resort and Villas is offering special rates for bookings through Mar 15 for stays during the low season from April 1-June 30. The promotional rates start from B3,799 for a one-bedroom suite (normally B5,899). www.outriggerthailand.com

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ESCAPES Where Y SAMUI

Five perfect lounges for watching the sunset

Horizon Pattaya The 1,390-sqmeter lounge sits atop the Hilton hotel on the 34th floor, and with three private dining rooms and some striking architectural features, it offers arguably Pattaya’s most stunning panorama. pattaya.hilton.com

Villa Vacation The latest Exchange+Relax package from Le Meridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa might seem pricey at first glance (B7,999/ night for a pool suite and B16,999/night for an ocean front pool villa), but looking closer at what you get for your baht it’s a pretty good deal. You room will be rosefilled on arrival, alongside chocolates and

sparkling wine, and you get one threecourse Thai set dinner, one in-suite/villa three-course Western dinner, a onehour massage for two, roundtrip airport transfers and late check-out till 3pm. A three consecutive-night stay is required.

No rush, you have until December 24 to think it over. Lamai Beach, Maret, Koh Samui, Suratthani, 077-960-888, www. lemeridien.com/kohsamui

Baba Nest Phuket The 4,000-sqmeter deck sits on top of the entire resort and is hugged by a 360-degree infinity pool so that nothing blocks your panoramic view of Phang Nga Bay. The toilets are pretty cool too. www.sripanwa.com

Out of the Blue Phuket Lounge on a blue daybed, sip a glass of bubbly and watch as the sun descends beneath the pine trees on the wonderfully wild Mai Khao Beach. www.jwmarriottphuketresort.com

Air Bar Koh Samui Sat on the sea-front balcony overlooking a calm sea, your sunset moment is complemented by an array of signature cocktails dreamed up by famous mixologist Joseph Boroski. samui. intercontinental.com

Before Sunset Mae Hong Son Tucked behind Mae Hong Son’s sacred Phra That Doi Gong Moo this delightfully secluded cafe offers a peaceful ambiance, good coffee and an amazing view as the sun sets over the lush valley.

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Where ESCAPES SAMUI

Not for Kids The 61-room, adult-only, beachfront resort The Akyra on North Chaweng Beach welcomes couples to a postValentine’s vacation with the Afternoon Afterglow deal. B44,780 (US$1,450) gets you a three-night stay in a onebedroom sea-view suite with private bubbly breakfast on the beach, which is right on your doorstep, airport transfers, a romantic candlelit dinner on the beach, a couples massage at the spa, and a private sushi cooking class with Chef Goro, a master of Japanese cuisine. The offer is valid throughout 2013. North Chaweng Beach, Koh Samui, www.theakyra.com Chonburi

Need for Speed The Akyra Samui

KHAOYAI, Nakhon Ratchasima

RATCHABURI

Starry Harvest

Artsy Getaway

January through March is the time for the Those seeking a cultural escape might grape harvest season for the numerous consider the sleepy town of Ratchaburi, Thai wineries situated in Khaoyai, which which is looking to transform itself into gives you the perfect excuse for a visit. a new artsy destination. Last month saw This month on Mar 2 will see the second a host of art-related events but some do running of Thailand’s only night-time continue into March. Wander around the harvest (from 5pm onwards) at Village town center and catch the ceramic art Farm, a French-country-style winery installations by award-winning Wasinburi in Nakhon Ratchasima. Entry is B1,900 Supanichworapach and fellow artists. per person, which includes cocktails, Wasinburi is the third generation of Tao dinner,the chance to do some grape Hong Tai, Ratchaburi’s largest ceramic picking and stomping along with live makers, and revived the family business classical music. But even if you’re reading with his avant-garde inspired items. He this after the event, the winery is also a also formed d Kunst (www.facebook.

MYANMAR VIETNAM good getaway from Bangkok com/THT.dKunst), an art gallery offering the chance to LAOS and residence to support Chiang Mai enjoy the fresh air, the local art scene. fresh wine and stay Another local artist overnight in one of Manop Meejamras its lodges. 103 Moo also performs Nakhon Ratchasima 7 Thaisamakkee, Bangkok stage shows at Chonburi Wang Nam his Suan Silpa Ratchaburi ANDAMAN Keow, Nakhon Baan Din Chet SEA Ratchasima, Samian (032-397044-228-407/8, 668) on weekends.

GULF OF Samui SIAM 044-760-020, More information at reservation@ www.facebook.com/ Phuket villagefarm.co.th SOUTH InLoveWithArtByTAT CHINA SEA

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Thailand is hosting this year’s FIM Motorcross World Championship Grand Prix, for the first time ever between March 8-10. Competitors from 16 countries will battle over the muddy bumps and jumps of the motorcross course through 18 rounds to take victory.

Added bonus: it’s on the way to Pattaya, about an hour from Bangkok so it can be combined with a trip to the beach.

At Pinthong Industrial Estate, Sriracha.

Tickets are B1,800 for the festival or B3,500 for the grandstand, available from www. thaiticketmajor.com.

Ayutthaya

Fight Club On Mar 17-18, witness the extraordinary cultural spectacle of Wai Khru Muay Thai, an annual event where Traditional Thai boxers pay their respect to their mentors with highly ritualized displays of gratitude. The event will Chiang Mai see boxers observe a ritual worship of Nai Khanomtom, the folk hero of Muay Thai, followed THAILAND by youth contests in the Wai Kru Muay Thai competition.

Bangkok There will also be Thai arts and culture Rayong performances (such as ritual tattooing), handicraft demonstrations (the making of aranyik swords) and, after nightfall, Samui a performance of ‘the Amazing Thai Phang Nga Elephants’.

Wat Mahathat, Ayutthaya.

Phuket Admission is free.

MALAYSIA

INDONESIA

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hot stuff Where Y

Sweet Creams

Help reduce jet lag and catch some all important shut-eye on your long-haul flight with these body lotions and creams containing extracts of sleep-inducing lavender.

1 Panpuri Solitude Soothing Body Balm, B1,050

4 Erb Lavender Lush, B1,090

2 L’Occitane Lavande, B1,355

5 Gla Skin Source Nourishing, B385

3 Harnn Cymbopogon Body Soufflé, B1,150

6 Banyan Tree Aloe & Lavender Body Lotion, B750

1

2

3 4

5

6

Banyan Tree Gallery. Banyan Tree Bangkok, South Sathorn Rd., 02-679-1200. www.banyantree.com Erb. Try 5/F, Central Chidlom, 02-793-7777.

Facebook.com/erbasia Gla. The Selected, 3/F, Siam Center, 02-658-1000. www.glanature.com Harnn.

1/F and 3/F, CentralWorld, 02-613-1429/30. www. harnn.com L’Occitane. Try 1/F, Central Chidlom, 02-793-7777. www.loccitane.co.th Panpuri. L/F, Gayson, 02-656-1199. www.panpuri.com march 2013 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 15

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ThewhereGuide march 2013

ART

Cabaret

This first solo exhibition from Bangkok-based French photographer Simon Kolton looks to capture the backstage atmosphere at the famous Tiffany and Alcazar Cabaret Shows. Images are displayed on the first floor of quirky French bistro Chez Pepin.

Through Mar 30. Chez Pepin, 186/3 Suan Phlu Soi 1, 084914-5499. Open Wed-Sun 6pm-1am.

dining.........................................................17-20 Business traveler.....................................21 arts + CULTURE.................................... 22-23

Y

nightlife..................................................24-25 health + wellness...........................26-27 shops + services.................................28-29

navigate........................................................ 30 maps........................................................... 30-34

Note that the reference at the end of the listings (WS24, ZD3, etc.) applies to the coordinates on the individual maps on pages 30-34. Listings without coordinates indicate locations not within the maps.

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dining

Y

Shuffle

The former chef of one of the city’s leading gourmet burger joints has gone it alone with this new venture located in a small community mall right on Sukhumvit Road. The decor is an industrial-chic mix of brick walls and lots of black steel, and has the added bonus of an outdoor terrace, while the food is resolutely rustic. The kitchen’s driving force is a focus on fresh ingredients, with rotating specials (hence the restaurant’s name, Shuffle). Highlights include familiar favourites like chicken wings and herb fries (B165) and the delicious BBQ ribs (B375), but there are also creative dishes like the “rustic quesadilla” with smoked salmon, mornay sauce and chive sour cream (B195). The drinks also transcend the ordinary with craft beers available along with wines and cocktails.

2/F, Rainhill, 777 Sukhumvit Rd., corner of Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-261-6992. Open daily 10am-midnight. ZC5

DOWNTOWN Y NEW Le Beaulieu — French. $$$$ Chef Herve

Frerard has returned to Bangkok’s dining scene with his mix of hearty, rustic options like the baked morteau sausage served with a rich tomato lentil sauce and terrine de pot au feu alongside bistro classics like bouillabaisse and sole meunière.

It’s simple dishes using high quality ingredients imported direct from France or making the most of the chef’s involvement with the Royal Projects.

G/F, Athénée Office Tower, 63 Wireless Rd., 02168-8220-3 www.le-beulieu.com YN21

Y Pick D’Sens — French. $$$$ The French-

imported eatery by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers has all the oomph one might expect.

The dimly-lit dining room has a view of Lumphini Park, and the food is bold and exciting. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000 ext.

2499. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10pm. XF10

Erawan tea room ­— Thai. $$$$ With a classy oriental décor, five-star service and a fine tea selection, Erawan Tea Room also impresses with its authentic Thai dishes and monthly-themed menus. 2/F, Erawan Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02254-1234. Open daily 10am-10pm. YN18 Eat Me — International. $$$$ The décor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic.

The kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng.

Open daily 3pm-1am. XG11 Gianni Ristorante — Italian. $$$$ “Gianni’s,” as it’s referred to by most, has earned its following with consistently outstanding food, an elegant

atmosphere and smooth service. 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-652-2922. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm. YN19

Y Pick Gaggan ­— Indian. $$$$ After a brief

stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and some wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02-652-1700.

BTS Chit Lom. 6pm-midnight. YO19

Jim Thompson Bar & Restaurant — Thai. $$$ Located in the former home of Siamese silk expert Jim Thompson, the open-air restaurant by a small lotus pond and its air-conditioned dining room serve up authentic Thai food and simple Western dishes. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, 02-612-3601. www.jimthompson.com.

Open daily 9am-5pm, 7-11pm. BTS National Stadium. YL15

Y Pick issaya siamese club ­— Thai. $$$-

$$$$ Chef Ian Kittichai made his name in New York but returns to his home country with this restaurant, set in a delightful wooden mansion and featuring inventive twists on classic Thai recipes.

4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., Sathorn Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

La Monita Taqueria ­— Mexican. $$ Handsdown the best place for a quesadilla or fish taco.

The décor and service aren’t much, but you won’t care after your third Reposado Margarita.

Mahatun Plaza, 888/26 Phloenchit Rd., 02-6509581. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am10pm. YM21

Y Pick Nahm — Thai. $$$$ Former holder of a

Michelin star, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open daily noon-2pm, 7-11pm. XG13

Y Pick Niu’s — Italian. $$$$ Muted tones, crisp

white tablecloths and large windows let the inventive and delicious Italian food take center stage. Niu’s also has an extensive wine list and often hosts top-name jazz acts downstairs. Baan Silom, 661 Silom Rd., 02-266-5333. Open daily 5pm-1am. XI10

Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$

Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Area guide Downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods Lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 Upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53 march 2013 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 17

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BANGKOK

dining Ruen Urai — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house, decorated with a blend of contemporary furniture and rare Thai crafts, it offers a polished menu of solid recipes. Rose Hotel, 118, Surawong Rd., 02266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. XF8

Y Pick Somtam Der — Thai. $$-$$$ Yards

from the bustle of Silom Rd., this spot brings typical street food into a more upmarket setting.

The menu has a focus on somtam, a spicy Thai papaya salad, and other classic Northeastern dishes. 5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am-10pm. XF11

Y Pick Sra bua — Thai. $$$$ The sister of

Michelin-starred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen offers Thai food with a molecular twist in a soaring, glittering palace dotted with fake rice fields. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02162-9000. BTS Siam. Open daily noon-11pm. YL17

Zense — International. $$$$ The rooftop dining venue of Zen Department Store has reopened with an all-new look and a striking view of downtown. Taste dishes from five kitchens courtesy of five famous Bangkok restaurants. 17/F, Zen, CentralWorld, 02-100-9898. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.zensebangkok.com YM19

zense

Zuma — Japanese. $$$$ Their generous salads mix avocado and fresh sushi. The bar is made from a single, monumental slab of stone and the garden is air-conditioned. It’s all wonderfully glamorous. G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-636-0002. Open Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm. YN18

Lower Sukhumvit 11 Gallery — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34, Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. ZB1 Above Eleven — Fusion. $-$$ The twist of this rooftop bar and restaurant, apart from a great city view, is a concept that focuses on Nikkei cuisine: a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. 32/F Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-9300. www.aboveeleven.com ZA1

ROSAbieng — Thai. $-$$ This two-story wooden house-turned-restaurant is a great place for those seeking an introduction to Thai food, thanks to its broad menu of properly executed dishes. 3 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-253-5868. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Sat 11am-11pm. ZB1

Y Pick Seafood Bar — Seafood. $$$ Owned

Indus ­— Indian. $$$ An ambient spot with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual north Indian favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. ZE5

by an oyster importer, this restaurant features 20 types of oysters and perfectly grilled fish dishes cooked with a modern American approach. Somerset Lake Place, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-663-8863, Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun noon-3pm, 6-10pm. BTS Asok. ZD3

Upper Sukhumvit Bacco ­— Italian. $$$ This relaxed, slightly rustic eatery packs in the diners nightly, thanks to its extensive menu of authentic regional specialities. 35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-6624538. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am3pm, 5:30pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30ammidnight. ZC6

Y Pick Bo.Lan ­— Thai. $$$$ Chefs Bo and

Dylan offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a charming house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes to reflect the seasons. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962. Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pmmidnight. ZD5

L’Appart — ­ French. $$$-$$$$ Imagine a grand Parisian apartment, which means parquet floors, rich burgundy wallpaper and lots of marble.

The food is French cuisine with Thai touches.

There’s also a full bar but a particular focus on Champagne cocktails. 32/F Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sois 13 and 15), 02-126-9999. Open daily 5pmmidnight. www.sofitel.com ZB2

Thiptara at Peninsula Bangkok

Y DINING NEWS Heavenly Waters The Peninsula Bangkok’s Thiptara restaurant (Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-861-2888.

Free shuttle boat from Sathorn Pier) recently unveiled a new lounge and an updated menu, both of which are proudly Thai. Thiptara, which translates as “river from heaven,” has added a number of open-air salas, complete with antique furniture and artworks, where diners can enjoy traditional dishes from various regions of Thailand. Alternatively, opt for the terrace seating to enjoy a panoramic waterside view. The lounge opens daily from 5pm, with restaurant services from 6-10:30pm.

Sushi Spin

Near Equal — Thai. $$-$$$ A new location for a long-term favorite in a charming house down a lovely leafy street. Upstairs the wood floors and antique pieces make for a delightful spot to enjoy well-balanced Thai dishes; then head downstairs to browse the selection of Thai furniture and handicrafts on sale. 22/2 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-258-1565. ZC5

So there’s yet another new modern-style Japanese restaurant in town. Seiryu Sushi (25/2, Sala Daeng Soi 1, 02-636-3342) is not just drawing in customers with its industrial wooden vibe, but also its very affordable menu. Recommended sushi includes the Matsusaka beef (B320), foie gras (B260) and engawa (B120).

Y Pick ISao ­— Japanese. $$$-$$$$ Despite

Old School

the standard izakaya facade, Isao offers something different—Japanese cuisine with distinctly American twists, thanks to the chef’s apprenticeship at the Green Tea sushi bar in Chicago. 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645/6.

Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, SatSun 11am-10pm. ZC4

Rossini’s ­— Italian. $$$$ Chef Stefano Merio works closely with Michelin-star chef Alfredo Russo from Turin to deliver contemporary Italian cuisine with perfect wine pairings. Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8364.

BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit. Open Mon-Fri noon2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. Sat 6:30-daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm. ZC2

It seems like Chinatown is going upmarket.

After the opening of trendy tea café Double Dogs (406 Yaowarat Rd., Bangkok, 086-329-3075. Open Tue-Sun 11am10pm), its neighbor, the 70-year-old grocery store Lor Yaowaraj (388 Yaowarat Rd., 02-622-4083, 02-622-4034), is now making waves, too. The place is run by a fourth generation owner who just hired one of Thailand’s leading food stylists to instigate a revamp with bright contrasting colors and Chinese green lanterns as dominant themes. Many of the old products remain, such as seasonings, tea and snacks.

But you can now also sample ice-cream from the Kiintim (089-927-9425) stall in front. The iced pastel bars come with Thai dessert flavors like the lip-smacking khao niew tua dum (sticky rice with black beans and coconut, B35).

isao

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dining Y Pick Smith — International. $$$$ Set in a

former furniture warehouse, it’s decked out in an elegant industrial theme, with walls lined with butcher’s tools. Chef Peter Pitakwong’s menu focuses on two things: locally-sourced ingredients and nose-to-tail cooking. 1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-261-0515. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. ZC5

The Local ­— Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef and co-owner Can Markawat keeps the focus on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find traditional recipes. They’re all served in a beautiful hundred-year-old house. There are cooking lessons every Wednesday, too. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm ZA3

Y Pick Quince — International. $$$ Quince’s

country-classic theme goes for a casual and rustic ambiance that’s part industrial part Spanish villa.

The kitchen’s focus is all about sustainability, ethical eating and local produce with impressive, down-to-earth home cooking and a ‘market’ menu that changes frequently. Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478. Open daily 6-10pm. www. quincebangkok.com ZC5

Bonjour — French. $$$$ Fine French dishes served in a bourgeois villa that boasts velvet lounge chairs and a small tropical garden. 1217/2 Sukhumvit Soi 59, 02-714-2112. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-1am. ZC6

Y SPoTLIGHT

Harvey — American, International. $$$$ A very popular spot with the town’s movers and shakers, the food encompasses modern interpretations of American, French and Italian cuisine. 129 Thonglor Soi 9, 02-712-9911. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-11pm. ZB6 Hazara —Indian. $$$$ Part of The Face’s elegant compound that also includes a Thai restaurant, bar, spa and bakery. The Northern Indian food is excellent and the décor is a stunning mix of hardwood carpentry and exotic crafts. 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-713-6049. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm. ZD6

THONGLOR/EKKAMAI 4 Garcons — French. $$$ Cooked by a Thai doctor, this classic French fare is served in a warm and elegant atmosphere. 1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-713-9547.

Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm. ZB6

Y

Magnum Café Following London, Paris and Jakarta, Bangkok has recently welcomed the world’s fourth, and largest, branch of the pop-up eatery Magnum Café at Siam Center, aiming to introduce visitors to new creative ways of having this guilty (but massproduced) pleasure. The menu for the sweet toothed includes Magnum ice cream with your choice of twenty toppings, while savory options include pizza, pasta and tapas featuring chocolate as an ingredient. Prices start from B80 but you only have until May 31 to enjoy this pop-up café.

1/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd. BTS Siam. www. facebook.com/magnumthailand YM16

hazara

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mvit Soi 45, 02-259-2871-3. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 11am-2pm.

Y

BANGKOK

dining Y SPoTLIGHT

Khun Churn — Thai/Vegetarian. $-$$ This family-run eatery, tucked away in the relatively quiet Bangkok Mediplex, has a classy-yet-casual atmosphere and serves up down-to-earth yet delicious meat-free Thai meals. G/F, Bangkok Mediplex Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 42, 02-713-6599.

Open daily 10am-8pm. ZD7 Khun Kling pak sod — Thai. $$ Another single-room family-run eatery, they serve up unapologetically fiery and authentic Southern Thai cuisine. Thonglor Soi 5, 02-185-3977. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-9:30pm. ZC6

Peng You Peng You Chinese Café shakes up the foodie scene in Sukhumvit Soi 49, which was formerly dominated by Western and Japanese options.

A charming, high-ceilinged coffee shop, it’s vintage references to China Town are balanced by a cool grey palette for that touch of modernity. The food is totally nostalgic though, and might remind you of Hong Kong’s diners with dishes like toast and deep-fried dough alongside classic Chinese drinks like milk tea. Piman 49 complex, Sukhumvit 49, 02-662-6169.

Mr. Jones’ Orphanage — Bakery. $$ This quirky pastry venue combines elements of country kitchen, Catholic church and Santa’s workshop.

The focus is firmly on baked sweets, including the intriguingly named Chocky Mud Pie and Custard Cow’s Poo. G/F SeenSpace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2378. ZB6

Y Pick Suppaniga Eating Room— Thai.

$$ Sat in a three-story shophouse, this new Thai restaurant offers a cozy yet chic décor. The menu is based on what the owner’s grandmom used to cook—Thai food that borrows both from her hometown of Trat, and where the family now lives, Khon Kaen. Expect authentic and often rare dishes.

160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (between Thonglor Soi 6 and 8). Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm ZC6

Y Pick Phuket town — Thai. $-$$ Phuket

Town whips up solidly traditional Southern-style dishes like kanom chine namya poo (rice noodle

with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that has plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches.

Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm. ZC6 Soul Food Mahanakorn — Thai. $$-$$$ Soul Food dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails, as well as a brief menu of well-executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect and the place is often packed. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-midnight. ZC6

Xuan mai — Vietnamese. $$$ Probably the best Vietnamese restaurant in town, this is where former beauty queen-then-FBI agent chef Meyung Robson sources the best ingredients, often direct from Vietnam, and cooks them perfectly from traditional recipes. 351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02185-2619. Open Tue-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 11:30am-midnight; Sun 11:30am-10pm. ZA6

Riverside Y Pick Chon — Thai. $$$$ Set in a beautiful Thai teak house overlooking the Chao Phraya River, Chon (“spoon” in Thai) is making a name for itself thanks to its authentic Thai food. The Siam Hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd., Dusit, 02-206-6999. Free shuttle boat from Central Pier. www.thesiamhotel.com

the deck ­— Thai/International. $$$ Book in advance for one of the best spots, out on the second floor terrace, and enjoy the amazing view of Wat Arun across the river. The well-executed menu covers Thai and European dishes. 36-38 Soi Pratu Nokyung, Maharat Rd., 02-221-9158. Open Mon-Thu 7am-10pm, Fri-Sun 7am-11pm. WQ23 Le Normandie ­— French. $$$$ The Mandarin Oriental’s showcase restaurant has set the standard for service and cuisine for years­­.

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02659-9000. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm; daily 7-10:30pm. XJ11 Supatra Riverside — Thai. $$$$ Situated on the Thonburi side of the river, the view from the terrace of this Thai house is amazing. There are regular cultural performances and a range of classic Thai dishes. Free boat from Maharaj Pier.

266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arunamarin Rd., 02-4110305. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm. ZP26 Steve Café & Cuisine ­— Located next to Thewet pier, Steve’s offers river views and a charming 60-year old wooden house, decked out in vibrant colors while serving up authentic Southern dishes. 68 Soi Sri Ayuthaya 21 (Wat Devarajkoonchon), Sri Ayuthaya Rd., 081-8680744, 02-281-0915. www.stevecafeandcuisine. com. Open daily 11:30am-11pm.

steve cafe & cuisine

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BANGKOK

BUSINESs Traveler SERVICED OFFICES

GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENTS

ELITE OFFICE—With two downtown locations by the BTS, these fully equipped offices are available on flexible contracts. Business and work permit assistance is also available. Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm. www.elite-offices.com.

THAILAND BOARD OF INVESTMENT—To encourage investment, the board offers foreign incentives and business support, including advice and key contacts. 555 Viphavadi Rangsit Rd., 02553-8111. www.boi.go.th.

IW SERVICED OFFICE—IW offers customizable offices in prime Sathorn and Sukhumvit locations, complete with secretarial services and meeting room facilities. Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5:30pm. www. iwoffice.com.

DEPARTMENT OF INTERNATIONAL TRADE PROMOTION—The website is in Thai, but its Thai Trade website features some key information in English. Call center: 1169. 44/100 Nonthaburi 1 Rd., 02-793-9394. www.thaitrade.com.

OFFICE FIRST—Their Sathorn office provides serviced offices, virtual offices, meeting rooms and business support, with the additional availability of translation services. Facilities are pay-per-use and IT and telecom support is also offered. 47/F, Empire Tower, 195 South Sathorn Rd., 02-6863400. BTS Chong Nonsi. www.officefirst.net.

THAI CUSTOMS DEPARTMENT—The website gives a general guideline of tax regulations pertaining to traders, businesses and individuals, but details should be verified in case of regulation changes. Call center: 1164. 1 Sunthornkosa Rd., 02-667-7100. www.customs.go.th.

SERVCORP—With three prestigious locations in downtown Bangkok, this international company promises to impress your clients. Facilities and services vary. www.servcorp.net.

TEMP AGENCIES MANPOWER—A world leader in workforce solutions, they have a range of resources and services in the realm of HR including contract details, payroll and legal advice. 02-634-7273. www.manpower.th.com.

PRTR—One of Thailand’s top recruitment and outsourcing agencies, their range of staff services includes matching contract staff to employers on short notice. 02-716-0000. www.prtr.com.

CAR RENTAL SIXT—This European company allows 24-hour pick up and return, and between its three Bangkok locations offers a choice of sedan, van, truck, sports car, convertible or SUV. Suvarnabhumi Airport: 086-909-4422. For more branches: www.sixt.com/car-rental/thailand.

THAI RENT A CAR—The website includes a simple key to help make choosing the right car easier and they offer personal drivers for daily or contract hire.

02-737-8888. For branches: www.thairentacar. com.

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HERTZ—Their fleet of Hondas and Toyotas are available at the airport and downtown, and with multiple corporate partners (like Thai Airways and ANA), you might be able to save money or collect miles with their offers. Reservation center: 02266-4666. For branches: www.hertzthailand.com.

Documentation TRanslation services—Most translation agencies in Bangkok are located in downtowm areas. Try: Chalermprakiat Center for Translation and Interpretation: Room 1308, 13/F, Boromaratchakumari Bldg., Chulalongkorn University, Phaya Thai Rd., 02-218-4635, transunit@chula.ac.th; or, International Translations Office, 22 Silom Rd. (2/F), next to BTS Sala Daeng, 02-233-7714, www.translations. co.th.

Legalization serviceS—The Consulate Office of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs is the only authority to certify any translated documents, including birth, education and marriage certificates. Fee starts from B200 and the process takes two working days. Same-day express service is available at double the price. Open Mon-Fri 8:30am-3.30pm. 123 Chaeng Wattana Rd., Laksi, 02-981-7171. www.consular.go.th.

SMART SEARCH—Normally specializing in executive recruitment, the relatively small agency emphasizes their personalized levels of service. 02-714-8088. www.ssrecruitment.com.

OFFICE MATERIALS B2S—You’ll find the office basics at this book, music and stationery store, which has branches in Central and Robinson department stores. Try Central Chidlom (7/F, 1027 Phloenchit Rd.). For more branches: www.b2s.co.th.

OFFICE DEPOT—With 29 branches in Bangkok, the stores at Asoke and Silom are the most convenient downtown. The international chain stocks everything from office electronics to furniture, and if you shop online, orders over B500 are delivered free of charge. Silom branch: 3/F and 9/F, United Center, 323 Silom Rd., 02267-6262. Call center: 02-808-5555. For more branches: www.officedepot.co.th.

TECH SUPPORT Pantip Plaza—A heaven for tech and IT lovers, the rather grungy-looking seven floors are dedicated to gadgets and gizmos. You’ll find countless little stalls selling computers, laptops, phones, printers, mainboards and more, with many computer repair services located on the ground floor. 604/3 Petchaburi Rd., 02-2501555. BTS Ratchathewi. www.pantipplaza.com. iSERVE—A standard service center for all Apple devices. 3/F, Amarin Plaza, Phloenchit Rd., 02-652-2324 /-7. BTS Chit Lom. For retail branches: www.istudio.in.th. march 2013 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 21

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Arts+Culture

Art Exhibition Highlights

There is No Essence — After joining Artery Gallery’s “Luggage-2nd Bangkok-Asia Young Artist Festival” in 2011, Korean artist Ho-Yoon Shin returns for a solo exhibition showcasing paper sculptures made using typically Korean techniques. Through Mar 31, Artery, Room B09, B1/F, Silom Galleria Building, 919/1 Silom Soi 19. XI10

Holy-Production — In his latest exhibition, local artist Prateep Suthathongthai explores superstition and the market for protective talismans in Thai society through reworked amulet imagery. Through Apr 7. 100 Tonson, 100 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02684-1527. YN20

Possession — This new exhibition sees international and local artists confront questions of subjectivity and ownership of their work in a world dominated by contemporary reproduction techniques and the different mindsets created by the pervasive influence of the internet. Mar 14 – May 5. 939 Rama I Rd., Pathumwan, 02214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th YM16

ART GALLERIES 100 TONSON GALLERY ­— With a prime location and well-designed space, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-6841527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20

H GALLERY ­— Set in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions representing emerging contemporary Asian artists. 201, Sathorn Soi 12, 081-310-4428. BTS Surasak. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm. www. hgallerybkk.com XH11

SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — More of a shop than a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai artworks. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040.

Open daily 9am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www. sombatpermpoongallery.com YL21

BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTRE (BACC) ­— The city’s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art-related shops in its impressive 11-story structure. 939 Rama I Rd., Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th YM16

NATIONAL GALLERY ­— Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd., 02-2812224, 02-282-2639-40. Open Wed-Sun 9am4pm. www.national-gallery.go.th WQ27

GOSSIP GALLERY ­— This multifaceted space showcases contemporary pieces from both local and international artists. 3/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-237-5568. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.gossipgallerybkk72.com XI10

V64 ­— More than 60 artists from Chatuchak Weekend Market teamed up to transform a three-acre space into a large art center, which features studios, a gallery, an art academy, shop and restaurant. 143/19 Chaengwattana Soi 1 Yak 6, Bhangkhen. Open daily 9am-6pm. www. v64artstudio.com

Silom galleria — This large mall hosts a range of modern Asian art under one roof. Highlight galleries include: Tang Contemporary Art, which covers modern Chinese art, and Thavibu Gallery, which features works by Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists. 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-2665454. The mall is open daily 10am-8pm, though some galleries have different opening times. XI10

THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC)­— Home to a large art library, and host to temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-9pm. www.tcdc. or.th ZC4 THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes.

101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-281-5360/1.

Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. WS27

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MUSEUMS JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. B100. www.jimthompsonhouse.com YM15 NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous property houses some of the most impressive architecture, art and antiques in the country. Na Phrathat Rd., 02215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. B50. www. nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th WQ27

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Arts+Culture SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household features eight Thai-style houses that showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period along with prehistoric relics from Baan Chiang. 02-354 Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-246-1775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www. suanpakkad.com MUSEUM SIAM ­— This completely restored colonial-style building is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-225-2777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. B300. www.museumsiam. com WQ23 Museum of Floral Culture — Founded by one of Thailand’s leading florists, Sakul Intakul, this museum tells the story of how geography, tradition, and beliefs have influenced the handling and presentation of flowers, and in turn, how these have affected the course of history. Samsen Soi 28, Dusit, 02-669-3633/4. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Tours in English run daily at 11am.

B150.

Queen Sirikit Museum of textiles —Opened last year this museum tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand. Highlights include the Queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading designers, Grand Palace, Na Phralan Rd., 02-2259420. Open daily 9am-4:30pm. Entry fee B150.

Proper attire is required. WP25

KIDs siam ocean world — Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. Highlights include the underwater tunnel, penguin enclosure and the glass bottom boat tour. Basement, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.,02-687-2000. BTS Siam.

Open daily 10am-10pm. B900 for adults, B700 for children. YM17 Flow House — If you’re missing the beach, then why not go surfing in the middle of the city?

That’s what this latest attraction offers, thanks to a special machine which gives a similar experience to riding a real wave. Flow House also features bars, restaurants and retail shops specializing in water sports gear. Lessons are available for novices and prices cover board hire, use of showers and towels. Sukhumvit Soi 26. Open Sun-Thu 8am-11pm; Fri-Sat 8ammidnight. Prices start from B550 per hour. www. flowhousebangkok.com Funarium—This giant indoor soft play area is a great option for those parents looking for somewhere safe for their children to blow off some steam. It offers painting, crafts, bike riding, roller blading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas. 111/1 Sukhumvit 26, 02-665-6555. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am7pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 8:30am-8:30pm.

B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults for three hours. www.funarium.co.th

cultural attractions Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) — Sat on the river’s edge the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmer-style tower) is decorated with millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means “morning” and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arun Amarin Rd. Wat Arun Pier. WP22

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Wat traimit Wittayaram — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm.

wat phra kaeo

Grand palace and Wat Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture. Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace is Wat Phra Kaeo, home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. Also, don’t miss the exquisite mural wall paintings that adorn the cloisters.

Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm.

Free English tours available at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm. B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25 Wat Po — A major tourist attraction, Wat Po is just as famous for its massage school as it is for its 46-meter-long Reclining Buddha.

Never mind that there’s usually a long wait and little privacy once you’re inside: the traditional treatments offer the real deal. Wat Po’s history as a center for Thai massage dates back to 1843, when King Rama III commissioned 60 diagrams depicting various techniques inscribed on the temple’s walls. If you feel inspired to learn, enroll in the temple’s training classes. Wat Po (Wat Prachetuphon), 2 Sanamchai Rd., Phra Nakhon, 02-225-4771.

Open daily 8am-6pm. www.watpomassage. com WQ24

Where Special | Arts+Culture

Premjit Thai Crafts The only place in Ratchaprasong District that offers authentic antiques, wood crafts and Buddha images from Thailand, Myanmar and Laos at affordable prices.

Retail and wholesale.

Visit our showroom at Amarin Plaza, 3rd fl., Thai Craft Market Zone,Ploenchit Rd., Ratchaprasong.Tel: 081-424-0587 Email: kurunusart@yahoo.com

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nightlife The Bookshop Bar

Located next to the lobby of the new Ashton Condominium in Sukhumvit Soi 38, The Bookshop is the latest brainchild of nightlife impresario Ashley Sutton, the man behind ever-popular Bangkok bars Iron Fairies and Fat Gut’z.

With The Bookshop, Sutton delivers a characteristically playful and bizarre interior reminding us of Professor Dumbledore’s library with a drinks menu by mixologist Joseph Boroski to match.

Try the Edgar Allen Poe which contains vodka, fresh citrus, palm sugar and pink grapefruit. The food menu is yet to be fully unveiled but dishes include salmon tartar in waffle cones with spicy jelly and African chicken skewers with grilled pineapple and tortilla chips. G/F, Ashton Condominium Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-1874949. Open daily 11am-midnight. ZD5

Y NEW Le Derriere — Sat next to sister club Q

Downtown Y NEW Apoteka — As the name suggests, this bar features a 19th century apothecary-inspired décor. The theme influences the cocktail list (called “antidotes”) where you’ll find drinks with names like Penicilin and Mr. Hyde. 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 090-626-7655. Open MonThu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am; Sun 3pmmidnight. BTS Nana. ZA1

Bed Supperclub — Bangkok’s leading club, with a space-age interior, is divided into two sides— the restaurant, which offers creative food and cutting-edge performances; and the club, where beautiful people dance to everything from house to d’n’b. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. Open daily 7pm-2am. www.bedsupperclub.com ZA1 Beervault — This simple and sleek bar is a mecca for imported brews, boasting 48 bottled beers from 12 different countries and six draught beers.

Four Points by Sheraton Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 15, 02-309-3113. Open daily 11-1am. ZB2 Hyde & Seek — Elevated pub grub, one of Bangkok’s best cocktail menus and a décor that conjures up Victorian drawing room style and NYC sophistication. Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-168-5152-3. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. YM21

Bar this new semi-alfresco venue is a luxuriously fitted-out art nouveau Francophile absinthe and wine bar, with an exclusive vibe and a great drinks selection. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-2525366. BTS Nana. Open daily 9pm-3am. ZA1

Levels — Decked out with a huge LED chandelier above a circular bar and a bunch of monochrome sofas surrounding a sizeable dance floor, this cavernous recent addition to the Soi 11 strip aims for a rather swanky audio-visual clubbing experience with international DJs regularly dropping by. 6/F Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246. Open daily 9pm-3am. www. levelsclub.com ZA1 Nest — Nest offers a perfect blend of sexy sophistication and chill out chic. Lay back on their super comfy daybeds while you enjoy the open air clubby vibe. Rooftop of LeFenix Hotel, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255-0638/9. Open daily 4pm-2am. www.nestbangkok.com. ZA1 The St Regis Bar — With a great New York Mad Men vibe and impressive views this bar also boasts a daily Champagne sabre ritual and their Thai take on the Bloody Mary. 12/F St. Regis Hotel, 159 Rachadamri Rd., 02-207-7777. BTS Rajadamri. www.stregis.com. Open daily from noon-1pm. YN18 The Speakeasy — Perched atop the Hotel Muse Bangkok, this two-story space harks back to the jazz age of the 1920s with a prohibition-era inspired décor, featuring lots of dark wood and Art Deco touches. A balcony on the 24th floor presents 180-degree views of Bangkok, while an al fresco rooftop offers a more leisurely terrace atmosphere. 24-25/F, Hotel Muse Bangkok Langsuan, 55/555 Lang Suan, 02-630-4000.

BTS Phloen Chit. YN19

est. 33

Y BARS WITH Their own beers Bangkok Microbreweries The Londoner Brew Pub This British pub offers two house brews, London Pilsner 33 and Londoner’s Pride Cream Bitter, both products of the brewmaster’s German heritage, which demands skill and quality (Germans are proud of their Reinheitsgebot, the 500-year-old beer purity law). There’s also a good selection of imported beers.

Sukhumvit Soi 33, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-261-0238.

Est. 33 It might be owned by beer giant Singha, but this microbrewery is ultra chic and has some interesting, freshly-brewed beers. Sit at the bar, hugging the glass tanks, and watch your beer brew right in front of you.

The Est. 33 Sampler has three types of beer (including a wild black brew infused with black glutinous rice). Crystal Design Center, Praditmanutham Rd., 02-102-2096.

Tawandang Brewhouse You can’t miss the giant beer barrel shaped dome of this longtime favorite. Three kinds of beer are brewed onsite—weizen, lager, and dunkel. They claim to be the largest microbrewery in Thailand with a capacity to produce 700,000 liters/year. They can also seat 1,600 people at a time in the cavernous beer hall. The accompanying show has to be seen to be believed.

462/61, Rama 3 Rd., 02-678-1114.

hyde & seek

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nightlife Oskars — A comforting menu, a long list of drinks and a great DJ mean this bistro, in the heart of club land, is a popular spot for pre-club drinks.

24, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255 3377. Open daily 6-11pm. ZA1 Q Bar­— The Soi 11 institution continues to deliver a heady mix of bass lines and international DJs but their remodelled 2nd floor, with a large outdoor patio, means it’s also a great spot to kick back with friends. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-2523274. BTS Nana. Open daily 8pm-1am. ZA1

ThongLor/Ekkamai

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WOOBAR The signature bar of the recently opened W Hotel proves much more than a regular lobby bar with its creative cocktails, glitzy purple décor inspired by Muay Thai boxing and chic selection of music ranging from lounge to techno, played by some of Bangkok’s hottest DJs. The impressive cocktail list from expert mixologist Bard Petchapradit makes use of gastronomic techniques like fermentation and infusions. Lobby/F, W Bangkok 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4000. Open daily 9am-midnight. XH12

Clouds — The futuristic vision is certainly striking— from the undulating ceiling, sporting anything from roses to Barbies, to the acrylic seating. Potent cocktails from the laboratory of a bar add to the techno-eco-inspired theme.

G/F, Seenspace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02185-2365. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZB6 Iron Fairies — Like no other bar in Bangkok, it actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies. A great live band and powerful cocktails make this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-8875. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. ZB6 Mellow — Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, affluent locals, attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and delicious cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am. ZA6

Y NEW Moose Bar — This revamped space

above vintage furniture store Y50 offers a no-frills ambience and acoustic live music on weekdays, and more fun beats on weekends.

Ekkamai Soi 21. Open daily 5pm-1am

moose bar

Riverside Babble + Rum — The riverside restaurant and bar of Riva Surya hotel is clad in a modern French cafe decor, finished with dark woods and leather couches. An outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area make it the perfect spot for a chill night out. 1-2/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Arthit Rd., 02-633-5000. Open daily 6:30am1am. www.rivasurya.com WQ27 Viva & Aviv — Fitting for its riverside location, this venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nauticallyinspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive, well-made cocktails and pub grub. River City Complex, 23 Yota Rd., 02639-6305. Open daily 11am-midnight. www. vivaaviv.com march 2013 I WHER E t ha i l a n d 25

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HEALTH + WELLNESS Hair Today

For those wishing to permanently forgo costly salon visits, laser hair removal is an increasingly popular option. Those of you who find traditional laser treatments less effective, even after repeat visits might consider a new alternative available at APEX Clinic which utilizes the latest Motif technology. Motif is tailored towards those with darker skin or fair hair and combines diode laser and a bi-polar radio frequency to target the hair follicles and shaft whilst protecting the surrounding tissue. This means it won’t leave scarring, a danger of some other methods. Furthermore, it only takes 20 minutes, rather than an hour, and is significantly less painful.

B18,000. Apex Profound Beauty, Thong Lor Soi 8, 080-500-0123. www. apexprofoundbeauty.com ZC6

SPA Deverana Spa — The impressive white lobby has an almost heavenly quality while the 14 individual spa rooms are little sanctuaries to enjoy a range of treatments from milk baths to body scrubs. Dusit Thani, 946 Rama IV Rd., 02-636-3596. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.deveranaspa.com XF10 Divana Virtue Spa — Tucked down a small soi close to the bustle of Silom, Divana Virtue Spa is authentic yet homely. Situated in a century-old house, decked out in an authentic Rama V style, it sits among a small yet lush garden to create a very private and calming atmosphere. 120 North Sathorn Rd., 02-637-8883. BTS Chong Nonsi.

Open daily 9am-11pm. XG13

Divana

ELEMIS SPA — The Elemis Spa is the first in SE Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the ancient Arabian sauna in the Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777.

BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am-10pm. www. stregis.com/bangkok YN18 I.SAWAN — With its Tony Chi design and its classy residential cottages and treatment bungalows, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a fitness club, tennis and squash courts and a 25-meter

pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com YN18 I Spa — One of Bangkok’s newest spa sanctuaries, the treatments offered here are based on therapies from China, India, Japan and Thailand, using five choices of essential oils based on Asian flowers and herbs. 9/F, The Landmark Bangkok, 138 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-252-9444. BTS Nana. www. ispathailand.com ZC1 LET’S RELAX — With branches around Thailand, and a wide variety of packages and trained masseuses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-662-6935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight.

More branches: www.letsrelaxspa.com ZB3

PaNPURI ORGANIC SPA — Hidden behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of this luxury spa.

Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1199.

Open daily 10-8pm. www.panpuri.com YM18

Panpuri

MULBERRY SPA — Set in a 60s-style residential compound, Mulberry Spa offers all the usual selection of treatments amid a classy-yet-cozy ambiance. 132 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1888.

MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 9am-11pm. Silom branch: 346/8-10 Silom Rd., 02-630-9888. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.mulberryspa.com

Le Spa with L’Occitane — Thailand’s first Le Spa with L’Occitane boasts a contemporary Thai style combined with an elegant French touch.

Treatments include the Golden Siamese Massage and Four Teas Ceremony. 9/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. between Soi 13-15, 02-126-9999. BTS Nana. ZB2

Okura Spa — Set in a contemporary oriental space, guests can enjoy stress-relieving treatments in five dimly-lit treatment rooms. Try the signature Okura Take Relief bamboo massage where therapists roll a warm bamboo pole over your muscles as part of an aroma oil massage. 25/F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02-687-9000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Ploenchit. YM20

SPA@tonson — This resort style spa includes nine treatment rooms and utilizes ancient Asian healing techniques through a range of treatments. The highlight has to be the special 4-hand massage.

5F, Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-658-7980. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-9pm. www.spatonson.com YM20

THE ORIENTAL SPA — As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. XJ9

THANN SANCTUARY SPA — Their treatments use their locally-made spa products and are offered within a tranquil space bathed in soothing lights.

3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.thann. info YM18

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HEALTH + WELLNESS AESTHETIC CLINICS APEX SKIN CENTER — If you’re trying to solve some skin issues, check out this well established and popular skin center for state-of-the-art treatments from Botox to micro-dermabrasion. 3/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-644-8613/-4.

BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am-9pm. More branches: www.apexskincenter.com ZC4 Yunomori

Yunomori Onsen & Spa — Bangkok’s first authentic onsen (hot spring bath house) features water sourced from a hot spring in Ranong, Southern Thailand. As with traditional onsen’s in Japan bathing is done in the nude, though there are separate baths for men and women and women can wear the disposable underwear provided. B450 for all-day onsen, and B350 for Thai massage. A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-259-5778. Open daily 10:30am-12am.

ASTER SPRING — This international chain of skin care and health spas combines German techniques and products to provide effective facial and body treatments. The philosophy here is nofrills and no-nonsense, just good skin products that offer real results. L/F, Gaysorn, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-656-1421/2. BTS Chidlom. YM18 Dermaster — This high-end beauty institute from Korea, lets visitors enjoy a range of treatments, from cellulite reduction to Botox in a opulent 5-star setting. But the main highlight lies in Dermaster’s use of absorbable surgical sutures—a faster, less painful way to get a nip and tuck. 342 Ekkamai Rd., 02-714-4471. www.dermaster-thailand.com ZA7

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PUTTHARAKSA — From non-invasive face lifts to the derma roller regeneration treatment, their aesthetic care is all about helping your body heal itself. Get further support through their anti-aging treatments. 1535 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-6336.

BTS Phrakhanong. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-9pm, Sun noon- 6pm. www.puttharaksaclinic.com ROMRAWIN — The popular beauty clinic has now expanded to over 20 branches in Bangkok.

They cover everything from body treatments and weight-loss programs to acne curesh. 4/F, Chidlom Tower, 22 Soi Somkid, Ploenchit Rd., 02655-7625, 02-655-7818. Open daily 10am-9pm.

More branches: www.romrawin.com YN19 SIAM SWAN COSMETIC CLINIC — One of the best-known local beauty clinics in Thailand, it offers almost every kind of beauty surgery, with laser, thermage, face lifting, liposuction, Botox and more available. 190-192 Siam Square Soi 1, Rama 1 Rd., BTS Siam. 02-658-4884/-6. Open Mon-Sat 10am- 7pm. www.siamswan.com YM16

Where Special | Wellness

I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok

I SPA, operator of 15 luxury Thai spas in China, has opened the first spa in

Thailand, bringing an exotic range of authentic health and beauty treatments from China, India, Indonesia, Japan and Thailand to pamper spa lovers with luxurious spa experiences.

Book now, quoting Where Thailand, and receive a 30% saving on all

treatments at I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok. The offer is valid until March 31, 2013.

I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok, Tel: 02-252-9444

Email: info@ispathailand.com, website: www.ispathailand.com

Rejuvenate your mind, body and soul at Spa@Tonson Spa@Tonson provides a Unique & Authentic Massage that is designed

to nourish your mind and body—through an array of massage techniques applied by trained professionals, that will leave you feeling relaxed and

revitalized. Double your sensation with our Signature 4-Hands Aromatherapy massage. A must try for true spa lovers.

Call for special promotion: 02-658-7980 / 081-954-4366. Location: Level 5 Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Bangkok. www.spatonson.com

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BANGKOK

ShopS+Services The Wonder Room

The Wonder Room isn’t the name of a new nightclub but rather a collective of Thai designed fashion products.

Fittingly, their multi-brand store stocks Thai designer label women’s accessories and clothing from eight of the city’s hottest designers. Every four months, the shop changes its decorative theme and rotates the brands featured. The first theme, Fresh Face, highlights the city’s up and coming designers, while its decor is a play on mirrors reflecting the shop’s dramatic black marble floor. Brands include Kem Issara, Rudimentary, Pitch, Fresh Meat and Virgin Daisies. Do note that the products here are exclusive to this mall, earning them the Absolute Siam label. 3/F, Siam Center (next to Something Boudoir), Rama 1 Rd., 02658-1000. BTS Siam. YM16

Downtown Amarin Plaza ­— The mall’s Greco-Roman façade actually hides some unexpected gems.

ID1 on the first floor holds an interesting collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs.

496-502 Phloenchit Rd., 02-650-4704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com YM18 Central Chidlom ­— The closest thing Bangkok has to Harrods, Central Chidlom first opened in 1973 and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. It’s packed with leading brands, like Bottega Venetta, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the impressive Food Hall on the ground floor and the views from the international food court, up on the seventh. 1027 Phloenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th YM19

Erawan Bangkok ­— This mini-mall might look petite, but its three floors offer some high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including Yohji Yamamoto, Dior Homme and Lanvin. 494 Phloenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www. erawanbangkok.com YM18 MBK Center ­— Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and at bargain prices. As a result,­the chaotic MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good. Still it’s fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the 6th floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www.mbkcenter.co.th YM16

CentralWorld ­— This massive shopping complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000-sq-meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for top brands like Topshop, Gap and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites like Singha Life and Disaya.

Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Rd., 02635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www.centralworld. co.th YM18 Gaysorn ­— Thailand’s leading high-end mall is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Céline) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Phloenchit Rd., 02-656-1149. BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com YM18 Platinum Fashion Mall ­— Platinum is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashionrelated from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even a single item is very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. www.platinumfashionmall.com YK18

Siam Center ­— One of the city’s most iconic malls has just reopened after renovation and offers new, inspirational spaces for art and design, befitting its traditional reputation at the vanguard of the local fashion scene. The highlight is the Fashion Visionary space on the third floor, home to the flagship stores of top Thai designers like Something Boudoir, Theatre, Flynow III and multi-Thai-label store The Selected. Rama 1 Rd., Pathumwan, 02-658-1000.

BTS SIam. www.siamcenter.co.th YM16

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ShopS+Services Siam Discovery Center ­— The sister mall of Siam Center celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul last year, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussaud’s wax museum. It also remains the place to come for Thai furniture brands.

Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www. siamdiscoverycenter.co.th YM16 Siam Paragon ­— With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like H&M and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a cinema. As well as lots of restaurants, there’s also a food court in the basement. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-6901000. BTS Siam. www.siamparagon.co.th YM17

Sukhumvit Terminal 21 ­— Boasting an airport terminalcum-international destinations theme. As you travel through the nine floors you can stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to highstreet chains, while the higher floors offer a host of intriguing boutiques by Thai designers. There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21.co.th ZB3

The Emporium ­— Set in the heart of the city’s upscale residential area (home to Bangkok’s largest Japanese community), The Emporium offers luxury shopping, thanks to its tenant portfolio, which includes brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Prada, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal, Thann and Jim Thompson.

There are also lots of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative & Design Center on the top floor. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000.

BTS Phrom Phong. www.emporiumthailand.com ZC4

Elsewhere Asiatique — This evenings-only shopping center is the first to sit on the banks of the Chao Phraya River and is themed according to the city’s architecture of old. Divided into several sections, ranging from the panoramic waterfront to a 100-year old refurbished sawmill, it includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashions and intriguing souvenirs, plus offers a variety of eateries, beer gardens and wine bars. The gigantic venue is also home to a new ferris wheel and the Joe Louis puppet theater and restaurant. You can catch the free ferry from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin). 2194 Charoenkrung R d., 02-108-4488. Open daily 4pm-midnight.

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MARKETS Chatuchak Market — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is one of the world’s largest weekend markets. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections, roughly categorized by the products on each offers. You can literally spend the weekend here amid the warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers.

Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 10-24 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home-decor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.chatuchak.org Talat Rod Fai — This al fresco night bazaar has become a hot spot for vintage finds, thanks to the mix of retro fashion, décor and toys for sale and because of the laid-back ambience created by the ad hoc bars and cafés. Kamphaeng Phet Rd. MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Fri-Sun, 4pm-midnight.

Ratchada Night Market — Apart from vintage cars, motorbikes, bicycles and parts, you’ll find old and new home décor items, secondhand books, fashion apparel, handcrafted products and even some lethal cocktails at the 200-plus stalls. Ratchadapisek Rd. MRT Ladprao.

Open Sat, 7pm-1am.

Y TOP SILK STORES Almeta Manufacturing its own silk, Almeta is known for the high-quality and sheer range of its Thai fabrics with over 1000 different colors as well as multiple different yarn types and weights.

You can buy all sorts of silk products such as cushions and scarves and even furniture, making it a perfect spot for gifts. They have no minimum quantity for orders and can provide woven-to-order fabrics. 20/3 Sukhumvit Soi 23. 02-204-1413. Open 10am-6pm. www.almeta. com. BTS Asok.

Jim Thompson American-born Jim Thompson established the Thai Silk Company Limited in 1948. Despite his mysterious disappearance in 1967, the company’s reputation has continued to grow globally. Numerous stores offer a huge choice of colors, patterns and products from sophisticated skirts to cute toy elephants. 9 Surawong Rd., 02-632-8100. BTS Sala Daeng. Retail shop and restaurant open 9am-9pm, home furnishing open 9am-7pm. www.jimthompson.com

Anita Silk Almost 50 years old, Anita Silk was one of the first silk stores in Bangkok and is still producing hand-woven fabrics. They pride themselves on their eye for design and have a full home range including bedding, curtains, dining sets and accessories. 432 4/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd. 02-129-4536. Open 11am-8pm. BTS Siam. www. anitasilk.com

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30 W H E R E t h a i land I march 2013

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2/20/13 7:16 PM

BANGKOK

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GET MOVING Mount in the heart of the Old Town, stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically-challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.

Z Dining

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march 2013 I WHER E T HAILAND 31 15

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2/20/13 7:16 PM

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Health & Wellness

25. Smith C5 26. Soul Food Mahanakorn C6 27. Supanniga Eating Room C6 28. Taling Pling D5 29. The Local A3 30. Water Library B6 31. Xuan Mai A6

1. L’Appart B2 2. 11 Gallery B1 3. 4 Garcons B6 4. Above Eleven A1 5. Baan Ice C6 6. Bacco C6 7. Bo.Lan D5 8. Bonjour C6 9. Gossip A6 10. Harvey B6 11. Hazara D6 12. Indus E5 13. Isao C4 14. Khun Churn D7 15. Khua Kling Paksod C6 16. Mr. Jones’ Orphanage B5 17. Near Equal C5 18. Phuket Town C6 19. Quince C5 20. Rosabieng B1 21. Rossini’s C2 22. Ruen Mallika E4 23. Seafood Bar D3 24. Shuffle C5

Soi Sukhumvit 40 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 40

AIRPORT LINk—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (tenminute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 15-20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B90 one-way and B150 roundtrip for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.

Y

BANGKOK

Navigate

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23

2 2

1. Woo Bar H12

frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a Tha Tien Piergreat way to get a different perspective on Tha the·‹Phrachan city,Pier Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã ·‹ÒàµÕ¹ as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from 9 B9 to B32 depending 1 1 on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket Wat Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ Wat Po ÇѴ⾸Ô์ (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river.

Health & Wellness

TO BEARING STATION

1. Body Tune G10 2. Devarana Spa F10 3. Divana Virtue Spa I12 4. Health Land G13 5. So SPA F12 6. Spa Botanica G13 7. The Oriental Spa J9

12

Shopping

skytrain/underground—The Wat Rajapardit ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃдÔÉ°

Bangkok Skytrain (BTS) stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom Line, Wat Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·Ñȹ which runs from across the river in Talat Phlu to National Stadium; and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines.

1. OP Place J9

Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

R

Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã

EXPRESS RIVER Boats—25These fast and 24

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Ratchawong Pier Q ·‹ÒÃҪǧ¤

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·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊоҹ¾Ø·¸

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Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡Ãا

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Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢

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St. Louis Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒÅૹµ ËÅØÂÊ

Soi Silom 1 9 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 1 5

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8

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Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

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Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ã㵌

G

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ

9

¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

Si Lom Rd.

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

Silom Soi 4

TO BANG SUE STATION

5

11

Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ãà˹×Í

2

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

14

silom14

13

Lumphini

Art & Attractions

1. Gossip Gallery India I10ËŒEmporium Ò§ÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ÍÔ¹à´Õ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ 2. H Gallery H11 3. Kathmandu Photo Gallery I11 4. Serindia Gallery J9 5. Silom Galleria I10

The Old Siam Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ China World ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ䫹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´

32 W H E R E t h a i land I march 2013 S

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The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station ¹ºÙþ Ò on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the

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main Central Business District before turning 26 27 North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past 28 Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) Chatuchak and ending at Bang Sue station.

Wang Lang PierMarket âç¾ÂÒºÒÅÈÔÃÔÃÒª ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇѧËÅѧ

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There are interchange stations at Sukhumvit (MRT) /Asok (BTS) and Silom (MRT)/Sala Daeng (BTS).

Fares are B15-B40 for both trains. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get 4 special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, 1 go to www.bts.co.th and www.bangkokmetro.co.th.

3 Phra Athit Pier Note that the BTS and MRT use different ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍҷԵ ticketing systems.

Wat Chana Songkram ÇÑ´ª¹Ðʧ¤ÃÒÁ

TAXIS—In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for thePolice first two kilometers. Despite their Station ʶҹյÓÃǨ many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price.

Democracy Monument ͹ØÊÒÇÃÕ »ÃЪҸԻäµÂ

5

Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò

7

Wat Saket ÇÑ´ÊÃÐࡵØ

Navigate_mar_2013_new.indd 32

2/20/13 7:16 PM

7

8

Sam Yan ÊÒÁ‹ҹ

3

9

Chamchuri Square ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ

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Si Lom Rd.

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banking hours—Banking hours are generally from 8:30am to43:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ã㵌

H

TO B

BANGKOK

tralia 02-2514-173, Austria 02-287-3970, Belgium 02-679-5465, Brazil 02-679-8567, Bulgaria 02-3916180, Cambodia 02-636-0540, China 02-245-7043, ATMS—ATMs are very common in Bangkok and Czech Republic 02-255-3027, Denmark 02-213Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์ can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located 2021, Egypt 02-262-0236, Finland 02-256-9306, outside of 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able France 02-266-8250, Ghana 02-641-5214, Germany to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

Chong Nonsi 02-287-9000, Greece 02-679-1462, ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ Iceland 021 10 237-8010, India 02-258-0300, Indonesia 02-2522 City Viva 3135, Iran 02-259-0611, Ireland 02-223-0876, Israel Dining 4 1. Supatra Riverside P26 02-204-9200, Italy 02-252-6151, Korea (South) St. Louis Hospital 2. The Deck Q23 âç¾ÂÒºÒÅૹµ ËÅØÂÊ 02-247-7537, Laos 02-539-6667, Malaysia 02-679Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ 2190, Mexico 02-285-0815, Morocco 02-653-2444, Health & Wellness 3 3 1. Wat Po Q24 Myanmar 02-233-2237,Pan Nepal 02-391-7240, NethRd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹ 8 erlands 02-254-7701, Norway 02-302-6415, New Art & Attractions Surasak ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ 1. Grand Palace/Museum of Textiles Q25 Zealand 02-254-2530, Nigeria 02-391-5197, Pakistan Soi Silom 1 9 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 2. Museum Siam1 Q23 02-253-0288, Peru 1 5 02-260-6243, Philippines 3. National Gallery Q27 02-259-0139, Portugal 02-234-7435, Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØRussia Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢ ÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ 024. National Museum Q27 268-1169, Saudi Arabia 02-639-2999, Switzerland 5. Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall S26 6. Royal Barge Museum P27 02-253-0156, Singapore 02-286-2111, Spain 02-2527. The Queen’s Gallery S27 6112, Sri-Lanka 02-331-6384, Sweden 02-302-0360, Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔ Þ¡Ãا Saphan Taksin 8. Wat Arun (Temple 6 ÊоҹµÒ¡ÊÔ ¹ of Dawn) P22 Taiwan 02-670-0220, Tunisia 02-692-5071, Turkey 9. Wat Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald 7 02-274-7262, United Arab Emirates 02-639-9820, Buddha) Q25 4 OP Place Oriental Pier United Kingdom 02-305-8333, United States of Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕ¹àµÅ Nightlife ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã America 02-205-4000, Syria 02-254-7961, Vietnam 1. Babble & Rum Q27 TO TALAT PHLU STATION 02-251-5838.

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo 9 opportunities.

However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a G price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Soi Convent «Í¤͹áǹµ major EMBASSIES & CONSULATES­—Argentina 02-259-0401, Aus5 ¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

TUK-TUKs—Tuk-tuks are a noisy but of Silomfun Soi way 4

TO BANG SUE STATION

5

11

Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ãà˹×Í

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22

23

24

25

1 Tha Phrachan Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã

Tha Tien Pier ·‹ÒàµÕ¹

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Police Station ʶҹյÓÃǨ

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Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

2

11 Lumpini Park ÊǹÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

TO NATIONAL STADIUM STATION

Si Lom

India Emporium ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ÍÔ¹à´Õ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ

The Old Siam Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ China World ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ䫹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´

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Queen Sirikit National Convention Center Èٹ »ÃЪØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Benchakitti Park ÊǹÊÒ¸ÒóàºÞ¨¡ÔµµÔ

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Soi Sukhumvit 38

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Soi Sukhumvit 24 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁ

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TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

TO MO CHIT STATION

15

16

17

18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ

19

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Ratchathewi Platinum Mall á¾ÅµµÔ¹ÑÁ ÁÍÅÅ

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Siam Paragon ÊÂÒÁ¾ÒÃҡ͹

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Central World à«็¹·ÃÑÅàÇÔà Ŵ

Wat Patum Wanaram ÇÑ´»·ØÁǹÒÃÒÁ

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Rama 1 Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 1

Royal Thai Police Êӹѡ§Ò¹µÓÃǨáË‹§ªÒµÔ

General Police Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒŵÓÃǨ

Amarin Plaza Erawan Bangkok ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒÍÑÁÃÔ¹·Ã ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒàÍÃÒÇѹ

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Henri Dunant Rd. ¶¹¹ ÍѧÃÕ´Ù¹Ñǵ

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Dining

6. S Medical Spa L20 7. Spa@Tonson M20 1. Le Beaulieu N21 8. Siam Swan M16 2. Elements M20 3. Erawan Tea Room N18 9. Thann Sanctuary Spa M18 4. Gaggan O19 5. Gianni Ristorante N19 Shopping 6. Grossi Trattoria M19 7. Jim Thompson Restau- 1. Amarin Plaza M18 2. Central Chidlom M19 rant & Bar L15 3. CentralWorld M18 8. Kisara N21 4. Erawan Bangkok M18 9. Magnum Cafe M16 5. Gaysorn M18 10. Mandopop N20 6. MBK Center M16 11. Medici N19 7. Pantip Plaza K17 12. La Monita Taqueria 8. Platinum Mall K18 M21 9. Siam Center/Siam 13. Reflexions N21 Discovery Center M16 14. Shintaro N18 10. Siam Paragon M17 15. Sra Bua L17 16. Zense M19 Art & Attractions 17. Zuma N18 1. 100 Tonson Gallery

Health & Wellness 1. Aster Spring M18 2. Elemis Spa N18 3. i.Sawan N18 4. Panpuri Spa M18 5. Romrawin N19

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

2 3

Ratchadamri

1 13

5 11 2

1

10

1

8

R

ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

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T

TO TALAT PHLU

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1. Hyde & Seek M21 2. The Speakeasy N19 3. The St Regis Bar N18

17

3

12

Sarasin Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒÃÊÔ¹

O

Nightlife

TO BEARING STATION

2

7

ÊÂÒÁ Digital Gateway ´Ô¨ÔµÍÅà¡็µàÇÂ

Soi Tonson «Í µŒ¹Ê¹

MBK ÁÒºØÞ¤Ãͧ

Soi Lang Suan «Í ËÅѧÊǹ

ʹÒÁ¡ÕÌÒáË‹§ªÒµÔ

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Siam

Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ

8

National Stadium

Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃҪǧ¤

Q

Central Chidlom ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à«็¹·ÃÑŪԴÅÁ

N20 2. Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) M16 3. Jim Thompson Art Center & House L1 5 4. Madame Tussauds M16 5. Siam Ocean World M17 6. Sombat Permpoon Gallery L21

vat refunds­—Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers to get your form stamped. Then, after check-in and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts not exceeding B30,000, will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refund amounts exceeding B30,000, will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

Hospitals­—Bumrungrad International, (Sukhumvit Soi 1-3, 02-667-1000, emergency 02-667-2999), Bangkok Hospital (Soi Soonvijai, Petchaburi Rd., 02-310-3000), BNH Hospital (Convent Rd., 02-686-2700), Samitivej Sukhumvit (Sukhumvit 49, 02-711-8181), Siriraj SiPH (Phrannok Rd., 1474).

Essential Numbers Emergency Services (Fire Brigade, Police) 191 Airport Rail Link 02-308-5600. http://airportraillink.railway.co.th Bangkok Taxi Call Center 1681 / 1661 Bangkok Mass Transit System (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th BTS Tourist Information Center : 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th Bangkok Metro (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6ammidnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th Chao Phraya Express Boat Call Center 02-6236001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com Suvanbhumi International Airport 1722/02-1321888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) – 1672. www.tourismthailand.org Tourist Police 24-hour call center 1155

34 W H E R E t h a i land I march 2013

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Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃس

Memorial Brid ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊо

6

Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

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Chit Lom Rd. ¶¹¹ªÔ´ÅÁ

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2/20/13 7:16 PM

21 Things we LOve about Thailand

!2

!6

!4

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!1

1 Following the monks as they wander through the mist collecting alms at Chiang Khan.

6 Being one of the first to enjoy the achingly-cool style of the Woo Bar at the W Bangkok (www.whotels.com).

2 Snorkeling in the crystal clear waters off the beaches of the Andaman Island of Koh Tachai.

7 Watching the locals going through their early morning workouts in Lumphini Park.

3 Sipping a warm cup of coffee while looking out over the mist at Moncham, situated within the Nong Hoi Royal Project in Chiang Mai.

8 Catching a glimpse of what Bangkok used to be like with a klong tour around the old canals (klongs) of Nonthaburi from Saphan Taksin Pier.

4 Learning how to cook some Thai

9 Enjoy the fire flies and traditional

food and supporting a worthwhile local charity at the Helping Hands Cooking School (www. cookingwithpoo.com).

ambiance at Amphawa floating market.

!1 Browsing the quirky stalls

!6 Watching the sunset with a

filled with authentic retro items at Talat Rod Fai night market (MRT Kamphaeng Phet).

cocktail in hand at InterContinental Resort’s Airbar on Koh Samui.

!7 Learning the history of Thai silk !2 Admiring the work of established

and admiring the stunning dresses on display at Queen Sirikit Textile Museum at the The Grand Palace.

and emerging contemporary Thai and international artists at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BTS National Stadium, www.bacc.or.th).

!8 Staying overnight at one of the

!3 Soaking up the sun on the

houseboat rafts on Cheow Larn Lake in the stunning Kao Sok National Park.

secluded beaches of Koh Kradan.

5 Getting a tension relieving Thai massage at the spiritual home of the art, Wat Pho in Bangkok. (www. watpho.com).

!0 Slurping up a bowl of authentic Hokkien Noodles in the heart of Phuket’s historic old town at Mee Ton Poh (214/7 Phuket Rd., 076-216-293, open daily 10am-6pm).

!9 Getting an adrenaline thrill white !4 Enjoying the creative Thai dishes on offer at Chef Ian Kittichai’s Issaya Siamese Club (4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., 02-672-9040-1. www. issaya.com).

!5 Catching a free, traditional Thai puppet show at Bangkok’s Baan Silapin artist community (02-8685279, thaipuppeteer@gmail.com).

water rafting down the Kwai River in Kanchanaburi.

@0 Staying up late, or getting up early, to experience the chaos of the daily flower trading at Pak Klong Talat, Thailand’s largest flower market.

@1 Exploring the rich Lanna culture and amazing ancient temples on the charming streets of Chiang Mai.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore

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march 2013 I WHER E tha i l a n d 35

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