Where® Thailand April 2013

Thailand

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a p r i l 2 0 13 the complete guide to go ®

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Surviving sONGKRAN The essential guide to Thailand’s wettest festival

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Where Special

Where Trust Meets Treasures

Sculpture of Buddha in stone, 14th century, Nepal

Edo-period Japanese armour and wood-carved sculptures of Shogun. 19th century.

When it comes to buying antiques, trust is an essential element which makes identifying a store or vendor you can trust your essential first step. They have the expertise and experience to ensure that you are viewing the very best choice of collectables and also provide that guarantee that the items available are both authentic and ethical. These are just some of the reasons why 50 Years Arts & Antiques is so respected and appreciated by both amateur and professional antique collectors. The host and owner of this private gallery, Mr. Grusenmeyer, is an art expert who has worked with and traded Asian antiques and collectibles for more than 50 years.

He and his staff are more than happy to show you around their collection of unique items from Asia and beyond. Wander through the timeless masterpieces like their Gandara terracotta Buddha images from the 4th-5th century or suits of Japanese armor from the 19th century Edo era. All of the precious pieces offered for sale here are certified by an authorized organization in Hong Kong, so you can rest assured that whatever you’re buying you’re getting beautiful and authentic antiques and artifacts.

Open Monday to Friday, 10am-6pm. 48 Ground Floor (right door), Soi Charoenkrung 30, Bangrak, Bangkok, 02-267-2297. stefaan@grusenmeyer.be

Naga hats in a rattan early 20th century, India

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Song dynasty (960-1279) sculpture of head in marble from China

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contents ®

l THAILAND l APRIL 2013

The Guide

Tourism Authority of Thailand

where

Bangkok 18 dining

Mama-style Italian dining, yet another modern Thai eatery plus the city's latest food news

22 arts+Culture The hottest art exhibitions, from cartooninspired illustrations to eerie images of floods

24 nightlife The best live jazz venues and a new rooftop bar with a Japanese twist

5

26 Health+Wellness Top spas and clinics, plus a soothing new venue with a great opening deal

Features 05 l Get Wet!

28 SHOPS+Services

Our definitive guide to the New

10

Year festival of Songkran.

A herbal brand now offers more everyday items and a new fashionista-friendly boutique

10 l A Guided Tour

30 Maps

A list of the best museums to visit

Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin

across Thailand.

Escapes

also inside

12 travel News

12 Managing Editor/Publisher Nick Measures Editor Top Koaysomboon General Manager James Fuss Managing Editor Grégoire Glachant Sub-editor Carl Dixon Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapon

4 Hot dates

The latest deals, promotions and

30 navigate

events around the Kingdom.

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Marketing Executive Natta Yantasri Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant Cover by Panita Thiraphapong

35 21 things we love

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

Mvp | National Sales Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.

Com

Mvp | Cartography And Circulation General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Morris Comunications Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/WhereThailand @where_thailand

www.wherethailand.com

Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris Iii President William S. Morris Iv Mvp | Creative Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

Mvp | Technology & Manufacturing Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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Where hot dates April 19-23

Through April 7

Bangkok International Gift Fair & Bangkok International Houseware Fair

Bangkok International Motor Show

Also know as BIG+BIH, this is the country’s largest trade and consumer fair of locally made products and presents a fantastic opportunity to peruse a vast selection of the best in Thailand. The fair covers everything from silk and wood crafts to cutting-edge designer furniture, home décor items and spa products. While April 19-21 are trade days for buyers from around the world, April 22-23 (10am-9pm) are open to the public giving you a great opportunity to browse for unique gifts and great deals. At Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre (BITEC), Bang Na-Trat Rd., 02-749-3939. BTS Bang Na. More information at: Apr2013.bigandbih.com

The annual Bangkok International Motor Show roars into town for its 34th year, showcasing the best of new and classic production cars and motorbikes alongside innovative concepts from around the world. As well as the cars, there will also be lots of special events like car tuning shows and offroad competitions. Tickets are B100 at door. At Impact Challenger Hall 1-3, Muang Thong Thani, Nonthaburi, 02-522-1731/-8. Shuttle service from BTS Mo Chit. Open Mon-Fri noon-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm.

April 12-14

gCircuit Song Kran 7 One of Asia’s largest gay parties is set to return to Bangkok to celebrate Songkran for its seventh year with five parties at three different venues. The three main events will be at Zen Event Gallery (8/F, Zen Department Store) and Renaissance Hotel, plus there’s two wet parties: Bears on Top at Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel (Apr 13, 3-9pm) and the newly-introduced Boys on Top party (Apr 14, 3-9pm) at Sofitel So Hotel’s Park Society. Music is headlined by seven circuit DJs, including Head, Louis T and Preeda.

Tickets are B1,300 (per party)-6,900 (VIP combo) till April 9 and B1,600-2,500 per party at the door. Details and reservations at www. gcircuit.com.

April 20

April 26

April 28

TOE Live in Bangkok

The Radio Dept Live in Bangkok

Musical Musicals

Formed back in 2000, four-piece Japanese instrumental post-rock band, TOE, returns to Bangkok to serenade their fans with hit singles like “Goodbye” and “Past and Language.” The show will also feature up-and-coming Thai post-rockers Two Million Thanks as an opening act. Tickets are B800 and B1,000. At Scala Theatre, Siam Square Soi 1, 02-262-3456. BTS Siam.

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Fans of light and sentimental electro-pop music should enjoy enigmatic Swedish dream-pop band The Radio Dept. They’ll be playing old favorites as well as singles like “Heaven’s on Fire” and “David” from their most recent album Clinging to the Scheme. Ticket prices are still to be announced.

Check www.facebook.com/haveyouheard.live. At Sonic Ekkamai, Sukhumvit 63, 02-382-3395. BTS Ekkamai.

Now in its fourth year, the Musical Musicals charity concert gathers together 13 leading Thai vocalists to perform memorable showtunes from famous Broadway and movie musicals like Grease, Chicago and Dreamgirls. Proceeds go towards the Cardiac Children Foundation of Thailand under the royal patronage of the late Princess Galavani Vadhana. Tickets are B1,0003,000. At M Theatre, 2884/2 Petchaburi Rd., 02-262-3456.

Unless stated otherwise, tickets for all events can be purchased through ThaiTicketMajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com), which also has outlets at Zen, Central department stores and Major Cineplex theaters. Visit their website for full details of locations.

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All images courtesy and copyright of Tourism Authority of Thailand

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Summer Splash Your complete guide to Songkran, the biggest, wettest and definitely most fun festival in Thailand.

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pril is Thailand’s hottest month, and marks the transition between the end of the dry season and the start of the rice-growing season. As such, it was traditionally considered the beginning of the New Year until Thailand adopted the Gregorian calendar. It’s a time to pay respect to elders, let off some steam and celebrate. That means you can expect two very different kinds of events during Songkran: mad, city-wide water wars and serene traditional ceremonies at temples. Here is our full guide to enjoying the Thai New Year.

The Festival’s Origins Even among Thai citizens few people know the actual meaning of Songkran, which is derived from a Sanskrit word, sankranti. Sankranti actually means “transit” or “transmigration” and is used to describe the movement of the sun from one constellation of the zodiac to another in Indian astronomy. The period that is

Sand Chedi? now celebrated as Songkran is when the sun transits from the constellation of Pisces to the constellation of Aries, believed to mark the beginning of the new year. Through the global movement of people these beliefs and customs eventually made their way across to Southeast Asia and Thailand.

The construction of sand chedi (pagodas) is an old-school tradition you rarely see these days in Bangkok and the bigger cities, but which is still practiced in more remote provinces. It is believed that each time a worshipper walks out of a temple they inadvertently carry some of the temple sand with them. The building of Chedis or other sand sculptures decorated with flags is a symbolic means of returning this sand back to the temple and paying their respects to the Lord Buddha.

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Where feature Traditional Celebrations Songkran is seen as a time of blessing and renewal hence the preponderance of water in the rituals performed. There are three main types of ritual: Song Nam Phra or the bathing rite of Buddha images. Traditionally, people would visit their local Wat (temple) to bathe the Buddha images and the temple monks, for good luck. In some places like Chiang Mai the statues are also paraded through the streets allowing the crowds to sprinkle water on them as they pass.

Bangkok celebrations

When is Songkran?

It is unclear when Songkran celebrations first started in Thailand, but it is known that Thai people have been celebrating the festival and carrying out the various related rituals for hundreds of years.

As the festival was traditionally based on the lunar calendar, the date of Songkran would change each year. However, due to the pressures of modern life it has now been fixed to April 13-15 with April 13 acting as New Year’s Day.

Rod Nam Dam Hua or the bathing rite of elders. Songkran is a time for families to get together. It is traditional for younger members of the family to pour water scented with jasmine onto the hands of their elders’ in order to ask for their good wishes and blessings for the year ahead.

Len Nam Songkran or bathing of peers. Songkran takes place in April, which is Thailand’s hottest month of the year. In the past, people would sprinkle scented water on each other to cool down. It’s this tradition that has escalated into the water fights of today.

Additional days may also be counted as national holidays if Songkran falls on a weekend. This year, for example, the government has also declared April 12, 16 and 17 as national holidays as well. Do note that the length, dates and even the type of celebrations do vary widely around the country (see Where to Celebrate for more detailed information). traditional bathing rite

Modern day Celebrations While some Thais will try and visit a temple at least once during the festivities, most are now firmly focused on enjoying the break, getting together with family and friends and generally having a good time. In recent years this has meant things have become wilder and definitely wetter. Water pistols and hoses are now de rigueur with many people choosing to camp out at prominent spots ready to soak any one walking by. Some take it even further by boarding pick up trucks loaded with barrels of water to continue their friendly water war on the streets, usually accompanied by lots of loud music and plenty of alcohol, too. It all helps to create a unique party atmosphere all over the country.

Scented water

Who is the goddess of Songkran?

There are actually seven different Songkran goddesses, each one relating to a different day of the week. They are the daughters of Tao Maha Songkran, or King Kabillabrahma, a powerful god.

When their father was beheaded after failing a trial, they each agreed to take responsibility to look after his head and keep it from touching the ground where its powers would cause fire and drought. Each goddess has different characteristics and powers—and tradition states that these characteristics affect the fortunes of the coming year.

This year Songkran falls on a Saturday so the goddess is Mahotorn Devi. She wears onyx, carries a discus and a trident, and travels on a peacock and, as a result, it is predicted that there will be more rain than last year. water fun in Chiang Mai

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feature Where Y Where to Celebrate?

BANGKOK

PATTAYA

When: Aprl 12-16 Where: Sanam Luang, Khao San, Silom, RCA

When: April 18-20 Where: Lan Pho Na Klua Park, Wat Chai Mong Kol and Pattaya Beach Road

While the biggest Songkran celebrations still take place up North, the festival has grown to become a very big deal in the capital. Do note that a lot of people leave Bangkok during Songkran to return to their hometowns so it can actually be much quieter than normal except at the sites listed below.

The main site for the more traditional rituals relating to the festival, which includes offering alms to monks and bathing of sacred Buddha images, will be at Sanam Luang and Nagaraphirom Park near The Grand Palace.

If you are looking to get wet and party then the three major destinations to head to are: • The backpacker haven of Khao San Road is famous for its all-day water fights (10am10pm), events and activities. You can expect a crowd of teenagers and international backpackers.

The Eastern provinces celebrate the Songrkran festival later than most parts of the country and, of course, the biggest city in the region, Pattaya, hosts the largest and longest Songkran party. The traditional rites, like offering alms and bathing Buddha images, will take place on April 18 at Lan Pho Na Klua Park in Northern Pattaya and on April 19 at Wat Chai Mong Kol in Southern Pattaya, while on April 20 you’ll get to see traditional Thai games, the construction of sand chedi and the worship of Buddha images at Na Klua Park. Expect the wetter and wilder fun to really kick off on April 19 when the beach road is closed to traffic and turns into a water battlefield. Pattaya City Call Center 1337, www.pattaya.go.th

Need to Know • Even though the government has requested that people keep their water splashing to dedicated zones, just be aware that you are seen as a game target anywhere and anytime from April 13-17 with tourists a particularly popular target. The only way to guarantee staying dry is to stay indoors.

• The smearing of powdered white chalk, traditionally used by monks in rituals, on strangers was also common in the past but men should refrain from doing so to women they don’t know as it has been prohibited by the Thai Government.

• Spraying water inside shopping malls and on public transport is also prohibited.

• Drinking alcohol is prohibited inside the water-splashing zones.

• Get more information about Songkran and updated events across Thailand at Songkran.tourismthailand.org.

• The heart of the central business district of Silom (2pm-late), from Sala Daeng to Narathiwat intersections (MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng), gets very busy with university students, young adults and the city’s sizeable LGBT population.

• Last but not least, nightlife central RCA (9pm-2am) is where the young party crowd tends to go after a day splashing around town.

Bangkok Tourist Information Center, 02-2257621, www.bangkoktourist.com

Khao San Road

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Where feature CHIANG RAI When: Apr 13-15 Where: Thanon Khon Muan The northernmost province celebrates the New Year with traditional rituals like offering alms to monks and sprinkling water on Buddha images and the elderly at Suan Tung and Khom Chalerm Prakiat. On the other side of town, youngsters will enter into a water war along San Khong Luang Road, which is renamed Thanon Khon Muan for Songkran, when it transforms into a weekend walking street. Tourism Authority of Thailand - Chiang Rai, 053-717-433

CHIANG MAI

Khon Kaen

When: Apr 12-14 Where: Roads around Ku Muang canal Regarded as one of Thailand’s three largest Songkran festivals (the other two are Khon Kaen and Bangkok), Chiang Mai’s Pra We Nee Pii Mai Muang offers the best of both worlds, with Lanna cultural events at sacred temples (such as Phra Sing and Phra That Doi Suthep temples) and a big water splashing event around the Ku Muang canal. (Fear not, the water’s been specially cleaned.) It all kicks off with a cultural parade on the first day, of which the highlights are the float carrying the sacred Phra Buddha Sihing and the Nang Songkran Chiang Mai beauty pageant. Chiang Mai Metropolitan Office, 053-259-000

KHON KAEN When: Apr 11-18 Where: Thanon Khao Niao Isaan’s largest Songkran celebration kicks off early with a cultural parade and showcases at various spots around Khon Kaen town, but the main highlight is the water splashing event, which sees Sri Chan Road temporarily named Khao Niao Road and has kids from all over Isaan coming together to mark the occasion.

Tourism Authority of Thailand - Khon Kaen, 043-227-714/6

Phuket

CHiang Rai

NONG KHAI

PHUKET

When: Apr 12-15 Where: Chommanee Beach

When: April 10-15 Where: Patong Beach

The celebrations take place along the Mekong River, with the biggest gathering at Chommanee Beach where Thai and Lao people come together for a friendly splash.

As for cultural events, visit Wat Phochai to bathe the revered Luang Pho Phra Sai Buddha image. Tourism Authority of Thailand - Nong Khai, 042-421-326.

Songkran festivities on Phuket are usually held at several locations including Sarasin Bridge (which connects Phuket to the mainland in Phang Nga) and the Old Town on Thalang Road. But if want to celebrate with fellow travelers from around the world, head to the island’s most popular beach, Patong, where the biggest celebrations will take place from Bang La Road to the Beachfront Road. Tourism Authority of Thailand - Phuket, 076-211-036, 076-212-213

SAMUT PRAKARN When: April 19-21 Where: In front of Phra Pradaeng district office Phra Pradaeng district in Suphanburi is the major residence of the Raman (aka Mon) population in Thailand. They welcome the arrival of the new year slightly later than anyone else but celebrate on a suitably grand scale. Expect to see extravagant parades, cultural shows, beauty contests, a light and sound show and lots of water splashing activities around town. Tourism Authority of Thailand, 02-250-5500, 1672

AYUTTHAYA When: April 13 Where: Ayutthaya Historic Park The former capital city of Siam, the old kingdom of Thailand, hosts an official Songkran celebration at the park in front of Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit. Visitors will get to offer alms to monks, bathe Buddha images and then splash water with elephants.

Tourism Authority of Thailand - Ayutthaya, 035-246-076/7

Khon Kaen

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Where around thailand

Guided Visits Taking a tour of Thailand’s best museums from Chiang Mai to Phuket.

Hall of Insoiration

PHUKET THAI HUA MUSEUM

BANGKOK

Museum Siam One of the first truly interactive museums in Thailand, it also happens to be housed in a charming vintage mansion, which was formerly the home of the Ministry of Finance. The musuem’s main focus is a permanent exhibition which recounts the history of Thailand and the Thai people through 17 rooms of multimedia displays and presentations. It also hosts regularly rotating explorative exhibitions. Until the end of April, these include a celebration of inventions created by Thai children and an exhibition examining the importance of the Ko Lae Boat (a type of vessel used in the South of Thailand). The museum also holds additional cultural activities such as workshops and free movie screenings. Please note that the front of the museum is currently partially obscured by a large construction site for a future train station but the museum is open as normal.

BANGKOK

Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall In 2008, the Crown Property Bureau converted a 1930s-era building on Ratchadamnoen Klang Road into an exhibition space designed to depict life in Thailand during the current Rattanakosin Era. Commonly known among Thais as Nitas Rattanakosin, the space was opened in 2010, and features nine rooms of interactive presentations, exhibitions and a library filled with books about Thailand. The Rattanasokin Sky View Cafe on the top floor (4/F) also has a nice view of parts of the old town.

B100 for adults, free for children under 120cm.

Open Tue-Sun 10am-7pm. 100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Road, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok, 02-2610044, www.nitasrattanakosin.com

museum siam

Hall of opium

PHUKET

Phuket Thai Hua Museum Though Phuket is best known today as a world-class beach destination, the island has a long history as a trading hub dominated by the local Peranakan Chinese community (similar to those found in Penang, Melaka and Singapore). The best way to explore this rich history is at the Phuket Thai Hua Museum, housed in a 1930s British-colonialstyle mansion that was formerly the oldest Chinese-language school in Phuket. (The school was moved to a new location.) Spread over the two stories are 16 galleries detailing the island’s Chinese ancestry and Phuket Town’s growth to prosperity. Afterwards, do grab a Phuket Town Treasure Map from the museum and explore the charming heart of the city on foot. (View our walking tour story at www.wherethailand.com) B200, free for children shorter than 100cm. Open Tue–Sun 9am-7pm. Krabi Rd., Muang, Phuket, 076-211-224, www.thaihuamuseum.com

B300 for adults, free for children under 15 and elders over 60 years old. Free between 4-6pm daily. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. 4 Sanam Chai Rd., Phra Nakhon, Bangkok, 02-225-2777. www. museumsiam.com Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall

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around thailand Where Y CHIANG RAI

Hall of Inspiration At Doi Tung Villa, the former residence of the Princess Mother, visitors can learn about the life and works of the Mahidol family members, the family of the current HM King Bhumibol, with a particular focus on their roles in helping to raise the living standards of Thai citizens. The exhibition is designed to inspire many others to do good works.

B50. Open 8am-5pm. Doi Tung Villa, Mar Fah Luang, Chiang Rai, 053-767-015/-7, www. doitung.org CHIANG RAI

l of Insoiration

Baandum

PATHUMTHANI

National Science Museum

Hall of opium

This striking cubist glass, steel and fiberglass structure has been a notable architectural landmark since it opened in 2000. Spread over six floors are installations and exhibitions narrating the history of science and examining Thai innovations and inventions. There are also rotating exhibitions, with the current display focused on the end of the world. Adjacent to the main building is the Natural History Museum where you can learn all about planet Earth and its evolution.

B70 for adults. Open Tue-Fri 9:30am-4pm, Sat-Sun 9:30am-5pm. Klong 5, Klong Luang, Pathumthani, 02-577-9999, www.nsm.or.th CHIANG RAI

Baandum Museum Started 35 years ago, Baandum Museum (aka The Black House) belongs to the revered Thai artist Thawan Duchanee who is celebrated for his powerful brush paintings and eerie sculptures made from horns, bones, reptile skins, traditional African sculptures, old boats, Lanna-style woodcrafts and art installations. These are housed across 32 buildings—most of which are Lanna-style pavilions made from black wood. If you’re lucky you might also catch Thawan himself painting quietly in a corner of the museum.

Free. Open daily 8:30am-noon, 1:30-4pm. 414 Moo 13, Nang Lae, Chiang Rai, 053-705-834. www.thawan-duchanee.com

Hall of Opium, Golden Triangle Park

CHIANG MAI

First Royal Factory at Fang, The Museum HM King initiated the Royal Project in 1969 to introduce alternative crops to Northern hill tribes and encourage them to give up planting opium. Three years later, the first food processing factory was founded in Fang district, Chiang Mai, to repackage the produce from these Royal Projects to resell under the Doi Kham brand. It was then rebuilt in 2006 after being badly damaged by floods. The result is a new workshop and the addition of an eco-friendly museum telling the history of the Royal Projects through presentations, photo exhibitions by renowned local photographers, and the team of knowledgeable tour guides. The souvenir shop also sells t-shirts, bags and accessories.

The Golden Triangle used to be infamous as one of the largest producers of opium.

Various Thai organizations led by the Royal Free. Open Tue-Sun 8:30am-5pm. Route 1249, Project and Doi Tung Development Project, Moo 12, Baan Yang, Fang, Chiang Mai, 053-051MYANMAR 021.VIETNAM iwww.firstroyalfactory.org have spent decades battling this trade.

As part of this campaign, the LAOS KOH SAMUI Chiang Rai Hall of Opium was built to Chiang Mai educate people about the dangers of the drug Pathumthani ML Arachawa through an entertaining Bangkok Worawan, a veteran exhibition which traces ANDAMAN artist who designed opium’s history from SEA one of Thailand’s its first use 5,000 years GULF OF first boutique hotels, Samui ago to current issues of SIAM Muang Kulaypan (www. drug abuse and addiction.

Phuket kulaypan.com), turned his B300 for adults, B50 for SOUTH CHINA SEA children 12-18, free for under 12s. villa-cum-restaurant next to MALAYSIA Open Tue-Sun 8:30am-4pm. Golden Pru Chaweng Lake into a museum Triangle Park, Chiang San, Chiang Rai, 053-784housing his collection of prehistoric ceramics 444/-6, www.maefahluang.org and pottery. The artifacts include stone INDONESIA knives, axes, pots and jewelry from 3,000BC CHIANG MAI to 1,900AD.

Samui Private Museum

Chiang Mai

THAILAND Bangkok Rayong

Samui

Phang Nga

Phuket

Lanna Folklife Museum

Set in the former district court building, right opposite the Three Kings Monument, the Lanna Folklife Museum recounts the rich culture and history of Northern Thailand (Lanna). This neoclassical structure houses waxworks, textiles, religious sculptures, wooden decorative ornaments and tools.

Also, do check out the Chiang Mai City Arts and Cultural Center located nearby for a comprehensive collection of traditional arts and crafts.

B90 for adults, B40 for children. Open Tue-Sun 8:30am-5pm. Phra Pokklao Rd., Muang, Chiang Mai, 053-217-793. www.cmocity.com

Free. Open by appointment only. Contact 088249-3901 or privatemuseum@hotmail.com for reservations and direction

lanna folklife museum

Opening Hours

Do note the majority of museums in Thailand are closed on Mondays. april 2013 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 11

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Where ESCAPES

Travel News

PHUKET

Peaceful Phuket

Grand openings, hot promotions and special events throughout Thailand

SALA Phuket

Set among the pine trees of the quieter Mai Khao beachfront, SALA Phuket Resort & Spa is currently offering a “3-Night Beach Break” deal aimed at encouraging guests to stay longer. The promotion, available to those booking three consecutive nights, includes roundtrip airport transfers, one set dinner, VIP check-in and a choice between a half-day tour or a one-hour massage for two. Prices start from B8,500/night (deluxe garden) until the end of March and B6,000/night from April onwards. Valid through October 31.

If you don’t want to stay that long, you can always plan your return holiday in advance (from April, at least) with early-bird rates starting from B4,699, inclusive of breakfast.

Finally, if you happen to be in the north of Phuket over Songkran, then do drop by as the resort will be hosting a Thai Village Fair at its main beachfront restaurant on April 13, featuring a variety of food from Thailand’s four regions for B1,200 per person, or B1,700 with free flow beer, wine and soft drinks.

Mai Khao Beach, Phuket, 076-338-888, fbphuket@salaphuket.com (for buffet), www. salaresorts.com PHUKET

Compact Holiday Conrad Koh Samui

W Retreat Koh Samui

KOH SAMUI, SUrat thani

KOH SAMUI, Surat thani

Island Retreat

Recovery Retreat

Due to the long school break and Songkran, April is a busy holiday season in Thailand. You can still find deals, though, like in Koh Samui, where the luxurious Conrad Koh Samui is slashing its “bed and breakfast” rates by 30% for stays until the end of the year. The “Dream Resorts 2013” offer sees prices starting from B16,240 for a 96-sq-meter Ocean View Pool Villa and B59,640 for a 318-sq-meter Conrad Royal Ocean View Pool Villa. Bookings must be made before May 14. Perched on a cliff on the southwest-tip of Samui, this all-villa hotel arguably has the best sea views on the island, especially at sunset. Hillcrest Rd., Koh Samui, Suratthani, www.conradkohsamui.com

For those who missed the gCircuit gay party in Bangkok (see Hot Dates, page 4), would like to recover, or are just looking to get a good deal, the event organizers have partnered with W Retreat Koh Samui Resort & Spa to create an “After Party Escape” package. This gets you a 163-sq-meter Jungle Oasis pool villa with breakfast for two at B11,699 net per night (normally B21,500/ night) during April 8-21. Guests staying three consecutive nights receive roundtrip airport transfers, while all guests booking this deal get access to an exclusive Recovery Party (April 16) featuring tunes from DJ Gio Vanhoutte. Maenam Beach, Koh Samui Surat Thani, 077-915-999, oui@gcircuit.com, www.wretreatkohsamui.com

Holiday Inn Express, the three-star line of Holiday Inn hotels, has just opened its newest property in Thailand. Sat on Patong Beach Road, the Holiday Inn Express Phuket Central consists of 277 contemporary-rooms in a simple four-story building. Facilities include a grab-and-go breakfast bar, a sizable pool, free Wi-Fi internet, a meeting room and a fitness center. Opening rates are from B1,999 through October 31. Patong Beach, Phuket, 001-800-656-888, 076-360-000, www.hiexpress.com

Holiday Inn Express Phuket

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ESCAPES Where Y CHIANG RAI

NATIONWIDE

Bachelor Thailand

New Year Deals

Fans of the hit American dating show The Bachelor which airs on ABC will already know that the latest series ended last month with its finale taking place in Northern Thailand. The show stopped off at two resorts as part of filming and you can retrace their route. First stop was the Anantara Golden Triangle (229 Moo 1, Chiang Saen, Chiang Rai, 053-784-084. www.goldentriangle.anantara.com), a luxurious tented camp nestled in the jungle which features breathtaking views, a highend spa and its own elephant camp. Rates start at around B25,000 with their Golden Triangle Discovery Package, which includes breakfast, lunch and dinner and roundtrip transfers. Then the final Rose Ceremony was shot at the Pa Sak Tong Villa (15 Moo 13, Maekorn, Muang, Chiang Rai, 053-726-782, www.pasaktong.com) just outside of Chiang Rai. The resort provides an all-inclusive private villa experience and a stunning setting featuring carefully tended grounds overlooking an operational rice field complete with its own water buffalo. Manned by 60 staff, guests enjoy the full run of the facilities, meaning the entire three-bedroom villa is all your own. For B46,00 per night, this includes roundtrip airport transfers, all meals from your personal chef, drinks, and house wine, and one complimentary massage per person, per stay. Perfect for those seeking their own romantic moment.

Planning a last minute Songkran holiday in Thailand? Centara Hotels and Resorts, Thailand’s largest hotel group, is offering deals at its properties in Bangkok, Krabi and Phuket for stays during April 10-16.

Participating hotels include Centara at CentralWorld Bangkok (from B6,500), Centara Anda Dhevi Krabi (from B3,080), Centara Grand West Sands Phuket (from B5,564), Centara Koh Chang Tropicana (from B3,815), Centara Khum Phaya Chiang Mai (from B3,300) and the new Centara Watergate Pavilion Bangkok (from B3,520). Two consecutive nights are required and the deal includes daily breakfast, a laundry service (limited pieces), waterproof bags for belongings and two water pistols. Check the entire list of properties and make reservations at www.centarahotelsresorts.com/songkran

Centara Anda Dhevi Krabi

ANantara Golden triangle

Isaan Racing It seems that the Bira Circuit in Chonburi may not be Thailand’s only world-class motor racing circuit for much longer.

The FIA (Fédération Internationale de l’Automobile) and the FIM (Fédération Internationale de Motocyclisme), motor racing’s two main governing bodies, recently approved the plans for a brand new Buriram International Circuit which is set to be located on a 198-acre plot of land in Buriram (see map, page 14). Hopes of landing a major motorace may well be a long way off but the people behind it, including notorious former politician Newin Chidchob, hope that the 4km-long track, with 16 turns, should be in operation within the next 20 months. www.facebook.com/ BuriramInternationalCircuit april 2013 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 13

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Where ESCAPES

Dune Hua Hin

KHAO YAI, NAKHON RATCHASIMA

Kids’ Paradise Khao Yai district in Nakhon Ratchasima is a favorite countryside retreat for Bangkokians, thanks to its cooler weather and spectacular mountain views. One of its more popular resorts is The Greenery Khao Yai, which is welcoming in April with a deal starting from only B2,490 for a Greenery room with breakfast. Guests and their children aged between 2-6 years old can also enjoy its newly launched Aqua Zone water theme park for free, along with free tickets to three more rides located within the hotel’s Life Park recreation complex. Khao Yai, Nakhon Ratchasima, 02-661-2999 ext. 400/516/519, www.greeneryresort.com AIRLINES

Birthday Deal Bangkok Airways is celebrating its 45th anniversary with special airfares to all of its destinations. A single-trip ticket to domestic HUA HIN destinations, from Chiang Mai to Samui, starts from B945, while Southeast Asian A four-hour drive from Bangkok in the resort destinations start from B1,945, India from town of Hua Hin, the boutique hotel Dune B2,945 and the Maldives from B7,945.

Hua Hin is introducing a “Breakfast in Bed” Tickets are valid during May 16-September package that features a two-night stay with 30 but you need to hurry as the deadline for breakfast and a bottle of prosecco served to bookings is April 15. You might not get the your bed every morning. Rates for starting rates, but we did find a B2,090 MYANMAR VIETNAM weekdays (Sunday-Thursday roundtrip ticket to Phuket. The LAOS nights) are from B7,900 for airline has also just enabled a Chiang Mai a superior, B9,600 for a prepaid baggage service for deluxe and B14,500 those planning on taking for a pool suite while an excess load. Beyond Nakhon an additional B850 Ratchasima the included 20kg in Buriram Bangkok will be added for the fare, rates are from Chonburi ANDAMAN Friday-Saturday B300/5kg for domestic, Hua Hin SEA stays. 5/5 Naeb and B1,000/5kg for Koh Khehat Rd., Hua Hin, international, which Samui GULF OF SIAM Prachuab Khirikhan, represents savings of 032-515-051/-3, www.

20-25% compared to prices Phuket dunehuahin.com at the check-in counter. www.

SOUTH CHINA SEA bangkokair.com The Greenery Resort

CHIANG MAI

Artistic Dreams The Chiang Mai branch of the H Gallery is currently running a special exhibition entitled Dreams and Other Thoughts: Art by Children in Refuge. It features the work of children and teenagers from the Shan, Lahu and Palaung ethnic groups living in the border region of Northern Thailand. The fine art prints on display depict a range of domestic scenes and are the result of a series of workshops organized by the Blood Foundaton, an NGO looking to help these minority groups have a more active role in the cultural and social life of Thailand, where many have been forced to flee to escape persecution in Burma. The exhibition runs until May 28 and the gallery is open to the public by appointment only on Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday. Mae Rim, Chiang Mai, 085-021-5508. www. hgallerybkk.com

All in Bed

Chiang Mai

THAILAND Bangkok Rayong

Samui

Phang Nga Phuket

MALAYSIA

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INDONESIA

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ESCAPES Where Y CHIANG MAI

Peace of Mind Chiang Mai has long been a favorite among tourists for its rich heritage and culture, with the numerous historic temples found within its city walls.

But it can also do modern pretty well, as is clear from the latest boutique accommodation, the 11-room Zensala Chiang Mai. The resort on the bank of the Ping River certainly feels a million miles away from traditional Lanna (Northern Thai) architecture with its design which sports cubist influences in its black metal, clean lines, raw cement surfaces and huge floor-toceiling windows. Still, the natural teak furnishings inside are a nod to tradition as is its special package for Songkran—a two-night stay at B7,200-11,700 which includes breakfast, a Thai set dinner, flying lanterns, shuttle service to town and free Wi-Fi internet—valid during April 12-16 only. If you are planning

ahead, this May the hotel is celebrating its first anniversary with a buy-oneget-one free deal for any room type (B4,500-10,000/room/night), including breakfast, free Wi-Fi, afternoon tea, and one choice between a B2,000 set dinner, a 120-minute massage, and roundtrip airport transfers. Bookings for this birthday promotion must be made during May 1-31 for stays until October 31. 168 Pa Tan Rd., Muang, Chiang Mai, 053225-888, www.zensalaresort.com

Zensala CHiang Mai

Détente Travel As the political tension between Thailand and Cambodia continues to ease off, we’re seeing more travel options to our near neighbors.

Transport Co. (Call center 1490, www.transport. co.th) has just inaugurated a bus service between Bangkok and both Siem Reap (home to Angkor Wat) and Phnom Penh (the capital).

The Bangkok-Siem Reap bus leaves Bangkok at 9am and takes seven hours but only costs B750. The Bangkok-Phnom Penh bus leaves Bangkok at 8:15am and takes 11 hours (B900).

Buses will drop you at the immigration offices at both borders (Aranyaprathet [Thai] and Poipet [Cambodia]) then pick you back up on the other side. Advanced tickets are not available for now, so you need to visit the sales counter at Mo Chit station prior to departure time.

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Thailand Splash & Spice 2013 Don’t miss these dishes!

The next few months promise to be bursting with flavor with extensive promotions, campaigns and special discounts for all you the foodies in town. Together with the Tourism Authority of Thailand, Visa invites you to enjoy scrumptious meals, whether it’s fine dining in fabulous hotels, edgy treats at hip restaurants, or even quick bites at the malls in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Pattaya and Phuket.

Keep your eyes peeled for our upcoming features, packed with exciting perks.

More information about Thailand Splash & Spice 2013, visit www.visa.co.th/splashspice2013

Look for The ThaiLanD SpLaSh & Spice 2013 Sign aT VenueS To Experience these exclusive buffets and set menu at select five-star hotels with prices starting from only B749 for lunch and B1,499 for dinner.

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Enjoy a complimentary drink, dish or discount at some of the most renowned restaurants in town.

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Enjoy a complimentary drink when spending more than B500 at participating merchants in shopping malls throughout Bangkok.

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Mar 15-May 31, 2013

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ThewhereGuide BANGKOK | april 2013

ART

Nang Songkran To celebrate the traditional new year festival, Thai painter Sompop Budtarad’s new solo exhibition features a series of paintings of Songkran goddesses (see feature, page 6) in various poses. Through Apr 28.

Ardel Gallery of Modern Art, Belle Ville, 99/45 Borommarachonnanee Rd., 02-422-2092. www. ardelgallery.com.

dining..........................................................18-21 arts + CULTURE.................................... 22-23 nightlife..................................................24-25

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health + wellness...........................26-27 shops + services.................................28-29 navigate........................................................ 30

maps........................................................... 30-34

Note that the reference at the end of the listings (WS24, ZD3, etc.) applies to the coordinates on the individual maps on pages 30-34. Listings without coordinates indicate locations not within the maps. april 2013 I WHER E tha i l a n d 17

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BANGKOK

dining Paste

This chic new venue continues the run of intriguing contemporary Thai restaurant openings taking place around town. Run by chef couple Bongkoch Satongun and Jason Bailey, who take their inspiration from Thai royal cuisine, everything here is homemade from locally-sourced ingredients. The pair employ inventive techniques and artful presentation to come up with dishes like saeng wa (grilled king prawns with lemongrass, ginger and crispy catfish) and jasmine and cinnamon smoked wild sea bass fillet with black vinegar, mint and peanut. The décor in the dimly-lit small dining room reflects the food and is dominated by a large handmade Thai wicker wall. The second floor hides a small bar, where you can sample some homemade infused vodka. 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-392-4313. www. pastebangkok.com ZA5

DOWNTOWN Y Pick Le Beaulieu — French. $$$$ Chef Herve

Frerard has returned to Bangkok’s dining scene with his mix of hearty, rustic options like the baked morteau sausage served with a rich tomato lentil sauce and terrine de pot au feu alongside bistro classics like bouillabaisse and sole meunière.

It’s simple dishes using high quality ingredients imported direct from France or making the most of the chef’s involvement with the Royal Projects.

G/F, Athénée Office Tower, 63 Wireless Rd., 02168-8220-3 www.le-beulieu.com YN21

D’Sens — French. $$$$ The French-imported eatery by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers has all the oomph one might expect. The dimly-lit dining room has a view of Lumphini Park, and the food is bold and exciting. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000 ext. 2499. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:3010pm. XF10 Erawan tea room ­— Thai. $$$$ With a classy oriental décor, five-star service and a fine tea selection, Erawan Tea Room also impresses with its authentic Thai dishes and monthly-themed menus. 2/F, Erawan Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02254-1234. Open daily 10am-10pm. YN18

Y Pick Eat Me — International. $$$$ The

décor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic. The kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection.

1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 3pm-1am. XG11

Gianni Ristorante — Italian. $$$$ “Gianni’s,” as it’s referred to by most, has earned its following with consistently outstanding food, an elegant

atmosphere and smooth service. 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-652-2922. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm. YN19

Y Pick Gaggan ­— Indian. $$$$ After a brief

stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and some wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02-652-1700.

BTS Chit Lom. 6pm-midnight. YO19

Jim Thompson Bar & Restaurant — Thai. $$$ Located in the former home of Siamese silk expert Jim Thompson, the open-air restaurant by a small lotus pond and its air-conditioned dining room serve up authentic Thai food and simple Western dishes. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, 02-612-3601. www.jimthompson.com.

Open daily 9am-5pm, 7-11pm. BTS National Stadium. YL15

Y Pick issaya siamese club ­— Thai. $$$-

$$$$ Chef Ian Kittichai made his name in New York but returns to his home country with this restaurant, set in a delightful wooden mansion and featuring inventive twists on classic Thai recipes.

4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., Sathorn Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

La Monita Taqueria ­— Mexican. $$ Handsdown the best place for a quesadilla or fish taco.

The décor and service aren’t much, but you won’t care after your third Reposado Margarita.

Mahatun Plaza, 888/26 Phloenchit Rd., 02-6509581. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am10pm. YM21

Y Pick Nahm — Thai. $$$$ Former holder of a

Michelin star, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open daily noon-2pm, 7-11pm. XG13

Niu’s — Italian. $$$$ Muted tones, crisp white tablecloths and large windows let the inventive and delicious Italian food take center stage. Niu’s also has an extensive wine list and often hosts top-name jazz acts downstairs. Baan Silom, 661 Silom Rd., 02-266-5333. Open daily 5pm-1am.

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Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$

Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Area guide Downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods Lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 Upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

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dining Ruen Urai — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house, decorated with a blend of contemporary furniture and rare Thai crafts, it offers a polished menu of solid recipes. Rose Hotel, 118, Surawong Rd., 02266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. XF8

Y Pick Somtam Der — Thai. $ Yards from the

bustle of Silom Rd., this spot brings typical street food into a more upmarket setting. The menu has a focus on somtam, a spicy Thai papaya salad, and other classic Northeastern dishes. 5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am-10pm. XF11

Y Pick Sra bua — Thai. $$$$ The sister of

Michelin-starred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen offers Thai food with a molecular twist in a soaring, glittering palace dotted with fake rice fields. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02162-9000. BTS Siam. Open daily noon-11pm. YL17

Zense — International. $$$$ The rooftop dining venue of Zen Department Store has reopened with an all-new look and a striking view of downtown. Taste dishes from five kitchens courtesy of five famous Bangkok restaurants. 17/F, Zen, CentralWorld, 02-100-9898. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.zensebangkok.com YM19 Zuma — Japanese. $$$$ Their generous salads mix avocado and fresh sushi. The bar is made from a single, monumental slab of stone and the garden is air-conditioned. It’s all wonderfully glamorous. G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-636-0002. Open Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm. YN18

Lower Sukhumvit 11 Gallery — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34, Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. ZB1 Above Eleven — Fusion. $$$ The twist of this rooftop bar and restaurant, apart from a great city view, is a concept that focuses on Nikkei cuisine: a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. 32/F Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-9300. www.aboveeleven.com ZA1 Rossini’s ­— Italian. $$$$ Chef Stefano Merio works closely with Michelin-star chef Alfredo Russo from Turin to deliver contemporary Italian cuisine with perfect wine pairings. Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8364.

BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit. Open Mon-Fri noon2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. Sat 6:30-daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm. ZC2 ROSAbieng — Thai. $-$$ This two-story wooden house-turned-restaurant is a great place for those seeking an introduction to Thai food, thanks to its broad menu of properly executed dishes. 3 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-253-5868. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Sat 11am-11pm. ZB1

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Saigon Recipe Yet another restaurant opening on Sukhumvit Soi 49 between BTS Thong Lo and Phrom Phong stations brings Vietnamese food to the buzzing soi. Run by a Japanese-Vietnamese couple who quit their jobs in jewelry for this, the décor is a nostalgic throwback to the Vietnam of the 1950s to 1970s and features the owner’s own collection of vividly colored Hoi An lanterns and propaganda posters. The brief menu focuses on the southern and central parts of Vietnam in dishes like the Hue-style mixed glutinous rice dumplings, nam nueng (grilled meat ball served with rice papers and vegetables) and gung pan oi (grilled shrimp cake wrap on sugarcane).

46/5 Piman 49 Complex, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02662-6311. www.saigon-recipe.com. Open daily 11am-10pm ZB5

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dining Y Pick Seafood Bar — Seafood. $$$ Owned by an oyster importer, this restaurant features 20 types of oysters and perfectly grilled fish dishes cooked with a modern American approach. Somerset Lake Place, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-663-8863, Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun noon-3pm, 6-10pm. BTS Asok. ZD3

Upper Sukhumvit L’Appart — ­ French. $$$-$$$$ Imagine a grand Parisian apartment, which means parquet floors, rich burgundy wallpaper and lots of marble.

The food is French cuisine with Thai touches.

There’s also a full bar but a particular focus on Champagne cocktails. 32/F Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sois 13 and 15), 02-126-9999. Open daily 5pmmidnight. www.sofitel.com ZB2

Y Pick Bo.Lan ­— Thai. $$$$ Chefs Bo and

Y Pick Quince — International. $$$ Quince’s country-classic theme goes for a casual and rustic ambiance that’s part industrial part Spanish villa. The kitchen’s focus is all about sustainability, ethical eating and local produce with impressive, down-to-earth home cooking and a ‘market’ menu that changes frequently.

Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478. Open daily 6-10pm. www.quincebangkok.com ZC5

Y New Shuffle — Western. $$$ A brainchild of the former chef of one of the city’s leading gourmet burger joints, this industrial-chic restaurant focuses on fresh ingredients, with rotating specials (hence the name, Shuffle).

Highlights include familiar favourites like chicken wings and herb fries and the delicious BBQ ribs. 2/F, Rainhill, 777 Sukhumvit Rd., corner of Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-261-6992.

Open daily 10am-midnight. ZC5

Dylan offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a charming house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes to reflect the seasons. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962. Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pmmidnight. ZD5

Near Equal — Thai. $$-$$$ A new location for a long-term favorite in a charming house down a lovely leafy street. Upstairs the wood floors and antique pieces make for a delightful spot to enjoy well-balanced Thai dishes; then head downstairs to browse the selection of Thai furniture and handicrafts on sale. 22/2 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-258-1565. ZC5

Y Pick ISao ­— Japanese. $$$-$$$$ Despite

the standard izakaya facade, Isao offers something different—Japanese cuisine with distinctly American twists, thanks to the chef’s apprenticeship at the Green Tea sushi bar in Chicago. 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645/6.

Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, SatSun 11am-10pm. ZC4

isao

Y Pick Indus ­— Indian. $$$ An ambient spot

with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual north Indian favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:3010:30pm. ZE5

The Local — ­ Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef and co-owner Can Markawat keeps the focus on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find traditional recipes.

They’re all served in a beautiful hundred-yearold house. There are cooking lessons every Wednesday, too. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm ZA3

KHao Chae

Y DINING NEWS Refreshing Rice Originally a traditional Songkran recipe invented by the Mon people, Khao Chae, a dish of chilled-rice in jasmine-scented water served with condiments like fried sweet pepper and fried shrimp paste, has been a popular way to cool down during the hot summer months since the early 20th century.

Throughout April, the Mandarin Oriental (02-659-9000) invites visitors to sample this traditional dish as part of the buffet lunch (B930-1,154) at the Sala Rim Naam restaurant, as well as at Mandarin Oriental shops (B395-595) at Central Chidlom, Emporium and Siam Paragon malls.

The River Spirit shuffle

Y Pick Smith — International. $$$$ Set in a

former furniture warehouse, it’s decked out in an elegant industrial theme, with walls lined with butcher’s tools. Chef Peter Pitakwong’s menu focuses on two things: locally-sourced ingredients and nose-to-tail cooking. 1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-261-0515. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. ZC5

THONGLOR/EKKAMAI 4 Garcons — French. $$$ Cooked by a Thai doctor, this classic French fare is served in a warm and elegant atmosphere. 1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-713-9547.

Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm. ZA6 Harvey — American, International. $$$$ A very popular spot with the town’s movers and shakers, the food encompasses modern interpretations of American, French and Italian cuisine. 129 Thonglor Soi 9, 02-712-9911. Open daily 11:30am2pm, 6-11pm. ZB6 Hazara —Indian. $$$$ Part of The Face’s elegant compound that also includes a Thai restaurant, bar, spa and bakery. The Northern Indian food is excellent and the décor is a stunning mix of hardwood carpentry and exotic crafts. 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-713-6049. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm. ZD6 Khun Churn — Thai/Vegetarian. $-$$ This family-run eatery, tucked away in the relatively quiet Bangkok Mediplex, has a classy-yet-casual atmosphere and serves up down-to-earth yet delicious meat-free Thai meals. G/F, Bangkok Mediplex Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 42, 02-713-6599.

Open daily 10am-8pm. ZD7

Famous Thai spirit Mekhong’s first restaurant, Mekhong Mystique (Town Square District, Asiatique the Riverfront, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-8744), has just arrived at Asiatique.

With all the trappings of a wine bar—think leather couches and hanging lamps—the food is typical fusion fare, like New Zealand mussels with spicy Thai herbs, squid ink spaghetti with seafood and spicy tuna tartar. But there’s the added bonus of cocktails made with Mekhong, like the Sipping Sense of Esan (tamarind juice, mango, chili and Mekhong).

Luxe Khao San A beautiful old house on Khao San Road has recently been transformed into Chez Bruno (21 Khao San Rd., 02-629-5828), a lavish eatery offering French and Italian cuisine with a few Thai fusion twists. Expect dishes like duck confit and mussels pomodoro served in a delightful colonial setting.

Mahanakorn Meal After more than 10 years in the game, the stunning Thai restaurant Mahanaga just revamped itself and changed its name to become The Myth of Mahanaga (2 Sukhumvit Soi 29, 02-662-3060). Boasting a new bar and a relaxing al fresco area, the food side of things sees Chef Christopher Pier integrate some Western ingredients and modern techniques like sous-vide into Asian dishes.

Southern Star Popular neighbourhood Ari continues to welcome new dining establishments, the latest being a new branch of Khua Kling Pak Sod (Paholyothin Soi 8 [Soi Sailom], 081-811-5458).

This second home for the delicious Southern restaurant (Thonglor Soi 5, see page 21) is sure to appease neighborhood crowds with its single dishes and set menus.

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dining Khua Kling pak sod — Thai. $$ Another single-room family-run eatery, they serve up unapologetically fiery and authentic Southern Thai cuisine. Thonglor Soi 5, 02-185-3977. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-9:30pm. ZC6 Mr. Jones’ Orphanage — Bakery. $$ This quirky pastry venue combines elements of country kitchen, Catholic church and Santa’s workshop. The focus is firmly on baked sweets, including the intriguingly named Chocky Mud Pie and Custard Cow’s Poo. G/F SeenSpace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2378. ZB6

Y Pick Phuket town — Thai. $-$$ Phuket

Town whips up solidly traditional Southern-style dishes like kanom chine namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that has plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches.

Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm. ZC6

Y Pick Suppaniga Eating Room— Thai.

$$ Sat in a three-story shophouse, this new Thai restaurant offers a cozy yet chic décor. The menu is based on what the owner’s grandmom used to cook—Thai food that borrows both from her hometown of Trat, and where the family now lives, Khon Kaen. Expect authentic and often rare dishes. 160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (between Thonglor Soi 6 and 8). Open Tue-Sun 11:30am11:30pm ZC6

Soul Food Mahanakorn — Thai. $$-$$$ Soul Food dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails, as well as a brief menu of well-executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect and the place is often packed. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-midnight. ZC6

the deck ­— Thai/International. $$$ Book in advance for one of the best spots, out on the second floor terrace, and enjoy the amazing view of Wat Arun across the river. The well-executed menu covers Thai and European dishes. 36-38 Soi Pratu Nokyung, Maharat Rd., 02-221-9158.

Open Mon-Thu 7am-10pm, Fri-Sun 7am-11pm.

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Le Normandie — ­ French. $$$$ The Mandarin Oriental’s showcase restaurant has set the standard for service and cuisine for years­­.

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm; daily 7-10:30pm. XJ11 Supatra Riverside — Thai. $$$$ Situated on the Thonburi side of the river, the view from the terrace of this Thai house is amazing. There are regular cultural performances and a range of classic Thai dishes. Free boat from Maharaj Pier. 266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arunamarin Rd., 02-411-0305. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:3011pm. ZP26 Steve Café & Cuisine ­— Located next to Thewet pier, Steve’s offers river views and a charming 60-year old wooden house, decked out in vibrant colors while serving up authentic Southern dishes. 68 Soi Sri Ayuthaya 21 (Wat Devarajkoonchon), Sri Ayuthaya Rd., 081-8680744, 02-281-0915. www.stevecafeandcuisine. com. Open daily 11:30am-11pm

Appia Jarret Wrisley of Soul Food Mahanakorn (see this page) has teamed up with Chef Paolo Vitaletti (who has a long career at luxury hotels across the globe) to open a trattoria doing “Romanstyle family recipes.” The place looks almost old-fashioned in its classicism: a wood paneled ceiling with beams, ceramic tiles behind the deli-style counter, while the chef is so committed to the family food principle that he flew in his mama from Rome. The result is wonderful pasta, while the beautiful rotisserie means the porchetta, stuffed with pork liver and herbs, is already a star dish. One of the partners owns vineyards in the South of France. As such, you can expect a carefully curated wine selection and a whopping eight varieties by the glass. 20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-261-2056. Open daily 6-11pm. ZC4

Xuan mai — Vietnamese. $$$ Probably the best Vietnamese restaurant in town, this is where former beauty queen-then-FBI agent chef Meyung Robson sources the best ingredients, often direct from Vietnam, and cooks them perfectly from traditional recipes.

351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-185-2619.

Open Tue-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 11:30am-midnight; Sun 11:30am-10pm. ZA6

Riverside Y Pick Chon — Thai. $$$$ Set in a beautiful

Thai teak house overlooking the Chao Phraya River, Chon (“spoon” in Thai) is making a name for itself thanks to its authentic Thai food. The Siam Hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd., Dusit, 02-206-6999. Free shuttle boat from Central Pier. www.thesiamhotel.com

chon

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Arts+Culture Art Exhibition Highlights Imagining Flood

Miti Ruangkritya’s photographic study of Bangkok’s floods of 2011 captures the impending sense of dread felt by many locals, using space and darkness to present surreal, dream-like scenes. Through Apr 28. At Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 87 Pan Rd., 02-2346700. XI11

Thai Cartoon and Abstract Illustration Exhibition

More than 400 cartoon-related drawings, paintings, sculptures and installations, presented by Soomboon Hormtientong who was inspired by veteran Thai cartoonist Raj Loesuang. Through May 12. At Main Gallery, 9/F, Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), (BACC, see directions below).

A Study of Buddhist Philosophy and the Creativity in Contemporary Art

A group exhibition that presents Buddhist principles, philosophies and beliefs in the form of contemporary paintings, sculptures and installations. Through May 5. At Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC, see directions below).

Imagining Flood

ART GALLERIES 100 TONSON GALLERY ­— With a prime location and well-designed space, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-6841527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20

H GALLERY ­— Set in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions representing emerging contemporary Asian artists. 201, Sathorn Soi 12, 081-310-4428. BTS Surasak. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm. www. hgallerybkk.com XH11

BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTRE (BACC) ­— The city’s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art-related shops in its impressive 11-story structure. 939 Rama I Rd., Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th YM16 GOSSIP GALLERY ­— This multifaceted space showcases contemporary pieces from both local and international artists. 3/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-237-5568. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.gossipgallerybkk72.com XI10 THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC)­— Home to a large art library, and host to temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-9pm. www.tcdc. or.th ZC4 THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes.

101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-281-5360/1.

Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. WS27

SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — More of a shop than a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai artworks. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040.

Open daily 9am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www. sombatpermpoongallery.com YL21 Silom galleria — This large mall hosts a range of modern Asian art under one roof. Highlight galleries include: Tang Contemporary Art, which covers modern Chinese art, and Thavibu Gallery, which features works by Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists. 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-2665454. The mall is open daily 10am-8pm, though some galleries have different opening times. XI10

H gallery

NATIONAL GALLERY ­— Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd., 02-2812224, 02-282-2639-40. Open Wed-Sun 9am4pm. www.national-gallery.go.th WQ27 V64 ­— More than 60 artists from Chatuchak Weekend Market teamed up to transform a three-acre space into a large art center, which features studios, a gallery, an art academy, shop and restaurant. 143/19 Chaengwattana Soi 1 Yak 6, Bhangkhen. Open daily 9am-6pm. www. v64artstudio.com

MUSEUMS JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. B100. www.jimthompsonhouse.com YM15 NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous property houses some of the most impressive architecture, art and antiques in the country. Na Phrathat Rd., 02215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. B50. www. nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th WQ27

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Arts+Culture SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household features eight Thai-style houses that showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period along with prehistoric relics from Baan Chiang. 02-354 Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-246-1775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www. suanpakkad.com

Madame Tussauds — The famous wax work museum makes it to Bangkok and features a star studded line up of incredibly life-like movie stars, politicians and sportsmen drawn from all over the world. 6/F, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama I Rd., 02-658-0060. Open daily 10am-9pm. Tickets B800 adults, B600 children over 5. BTS Siam.

MUSEUM SIAM ­— This completely restored colonial-style building is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-225-2777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. B300. www.museumsiam. com WQ23

siam ocean world — Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. Highlights include the underwater tunnel, penguin enclosure and the glass bottom boat tour.

Basement, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.,02-6872000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm. B900 for adults, B700 for children. YM17

Museum of Floral Culture — Founded by one of Thailand’s leading florists, Sakul Intakul, this museum tells the story of how geography, tradition, and beliefs have influenced the handling and presentation of flowers, and in turn, how these have affected the course of history. Samsen Soi 28, Dusit, 02-669-3633/4. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Tours in English run daily at 11am.

B150.

Queen Sirikit Museum of textiles —Opened last year this museum tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand. Highlights include the Queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading designers, Grand Palace, Na Phralan Rd., 02-2259420. Open daily 9am-4:30pm. Entry fee B150.

Proper attire is required. WP25

Attractions Flow House — If you’re missing the beach, then why not go surfing in the middle of the city?

That’s what this latest attraction offers, thanks to a special machine which gives a similar experience to riding a real wave. Flow House also features bars, restaurants and retail shops specializing in water sports gear. Lessons are available for novices and prices cover board hire, use of showers and towels. Sukhumvit Soi 26. Open Sun-Thu 8am-11pm; Fri-Sat 8ammidnight. Prices start from B550 per hour. www. flowhousebangkok.com

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Y Kids

Three indoor play areas for kids

YM16

cultural attractions Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) — Sat on the river’s edge the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmerstyle tower) is decorated with millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means “morning” and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arun Amarin Rd. Wat Arun Pier. WP22 Wat traimit Wittayaram — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm.

Grand palace and Wat Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture. Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace is Wat Phra Kaeo, home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. Also, don’t miss the exquisite mural wall paintings that adorn the cloisters.

Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm.

Free English tours available at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm. B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25

Funarium

Funarium This giant indoor soft play area provides painting, crafts, bike riding, roller blading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas, ensuring there’s plenty for the kids to do. 111/1 Sukhumvit 26, 02-665-6555. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, FriSun & Public Holidays 8:30am-8:30pm. B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults for three hours. Socks required. www.funarium.co.th

Playtime Located on the third floor of upscale neighborhood mall Parklane, the central space is dominated by a large play-gym area. There’s also a separate space for under threes, a sandpit, ice skating rink, climbing wall, electric car track and more. Upstairs offers a cafeteria. 3-4/F, Parklane Ekamai, opposite Ekamai Soi 2, 02-382-0077. Open Mon-Thu 9am-6pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 9am-7:30pm. B210-350 for kids and B110 for adults. Socks required. www. playtime.co.th

Kidzooona NEW! Actually split into two main sections, Molly’s Gateway is just a large amusement arcade but Kidzoona offers a large space for children to explore.

As well as giant inflatables and a big ball pit, the unique aspect is the chance for children to dress up as builders, firemen, chefs and more and explore the world of Papertown. 5/F, Gateway Mall Ekkamai, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-108-2650/-52. Open daily from 10am-9pm. B180-B330 for kids and B90 for adults.

Socks required. BTS Ekkamai.

Where Special | Arts+Culture

Premjit Thai Crafts The only place in Ratchaprasong District that offers authentic antiques, wood crafts and Buddha images from Thailand, Myanmar and Laos at affordable prices.

Retail and wholesale.

Visit our showroom at Amarin Plaza, 3rd fl., Thai Craft Market Zone C1,C3,Ploenchit Rd., Ratchaprasong.Tel: 081-424-0587 Email: kurunusart@yahoo.com

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nightlife Kinki

The Rainhill community mall between BTS Phrom Phong and Thong Lo welcomes another exciting new venue, the rooftop Japanese-themed bar and restaurant Kinki, imported from Singapore. The venue promises an urban attitude which is clear from the huge, colorful graffiti-covered wall that greets you stepping out of the elevator.

The graffiti continues inside, on one wall, while substantial windows dominate three sides and let you look out onto the pleasingly green outdoor terrace. Music is split between jazz and funk inside, while the outdoor terrace features more upbeat house, disco and chart hits spun by some of Bangkok’s fave DJs like Co2an and Felix Moreno. The food is Japanese fusion, while the cocktails are Thai-Japanese concoctions, like the Spicy Hachimitshu (vodka, honey umeshu with wasabi, cucumber and lemon).

6/F, Rainhill, Sukhumvit Soi 47. 02-2617204. Open daily from 6pm-midnight. www. facebook.com/kinkibkk ZC5

Downtown Y NEW Apoteka — As the name suggests,

this bar features a 19th century apothecaryinspired décor. The theme influences the cocktail list (called “antidotes”) where you’ll find drinks with names like Penicilin and Mr. Hyde.

33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 090-626-7655. Open Mon-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am; Sun 3pm-midnight. BTS Nana. ZA1

Bed Supperclub — Bangkok’s leading club, with a space-age interior, is divided into two sides— the restaurant, which offers creative food and cutting-edge performances; and the club, where beautiful people dance to everything from house to d’n’b. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. Open daily 7pm-2am. www. bedsupperclub.com ZA1

Levels — Decked out with a huge LED chandelier above a circular bar and a bunch of monochrome sofas surrounding a sizeable dance floor, this cavernous recent addition to the Soi 11 strip aims for a rather swanky audiovisual clubbing experience with international DJs regularly dropping in. 6/F Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246. Open daily 9pm-3am. www.levelsclub.com ZA1 Nest — Nest offers a perfect blend of sexy sophistication and chill out chic. Lay back on their super comfy daybeds while you enjoy the open air clubby vibe. Rooftop of LeFenix Hotel, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255-0638/9.

Open daily 4pm-2am. www.nestbangkok. com. ZA1

Beervault — This simple and sleek bar is a mecca for imported brews, boasting 48 bottled beers from 12 different countries and six draught beers. Four Points by Sheraton Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 15, 02-309-3113. Open daily 11-1am. ZB2

Hyde & Seek — Elevated pub grub, one of Bangkok’s best cocktail menus and a décor that conjures up Victorian drawing room style and NYC sophistication. Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-168-5152-3.

BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. YM21

Y Top Live Jazz venues Diplomat Bar, Conrad Hotel This swanky lobby bar attracts a mixed crowd of inhouse guests and local diplomats and professionals.

You can currently catch the American blues/jazz singer Ruby Hayes performing live every Mon-Thu 8.30pm till late, and every Fri and Sat from 9pm.

Conrad Hotel, 87 Wireless Rd., 02-690-9999. Open Sun-Thu 10-1am, Fri-Sat 10-2am. BTS Ploenchit.

Bamboo Bar, Mandarin Oriental

Y NEW Le Derriere — Sat next to sister

club Q Bar this new semi-alfresco venue is a luxuriously fitted-out art nouveau Francophile absinthe and wine bar, with an exclusive vibe and a great drinks selection. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-5366. BTS Nana. Open daily 9pm3am. ZA1

Bamboo bar

nest

Park Society — For a real breath of fresh air and a park view head up to Park Society on the 29th floor of the trendy Sofitel So. Inside is for fine dining while the rooftop is all about interesting cocktails, lounge tunes and the striking view. For more intimacy try the small mezzanine one level up called Hi-So Cabana (B500 entry with one drink). 29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000.

Open daily 5pm-1am.

Soak up the jungle-like vibe and the distinctive sounds of singer, writer, actress and Golden Globe winner Cynthia Utterbach as she treats her audience to a mix of modern and classic jazz, gospel and blues tunes. She’ll be performing here, one of Bangkok’s classiest bars, from 9pm every night (except Sunday) through the end of June. Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 48 Oriental Avenue, 02-659-9000. www. mandarinoriental.com/bangkok

Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit Catch some live jazz and enjoy a Sunday feast at the Jazzy Brunch held every week at the Sheraton.

Celebrating its 12th year, throughout the month of April you can enjoy some top class jazz acts, enjoy the wide range of international cuisine and have the chance to win some top prizes in their weekly draw.

Book online to enjoy 30% off the standard price.

Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Rd., 02649-8353. www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com

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nightlife Oskars — A comforting menu, a long list of drinks and a great DJ mean this bistro, in the heart of club land, is a popular spot for supper and pre-club drinks. 24, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02255 3377. Open daily 6-11pm. ZA1

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Y SPoTLIGHT

Scarlett — Perched on Pullman Bangkok Hotel G’s top floor it features a nice al fresco terrace with fantastic views, an extensive and affordable wine list, industrial bistro décor and interesting tapas options. 37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd, 02-238-1991.

BTS Chong Nonsi.

The Speakeasy — Perched atop the Hotel Muse Bangkok, this two-story space harks back to the jazz age of the 1920s with a prohibition-era inspired décor, featuring lots of dark wood and Art Deco touches. A balcony on the 24th floor presents 180-degree views of Bangkok, while an al fresco rooftop offers a more leisurely terrace atmosphere. 24-25/F, Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan, 02-630-4000. BTS Phloen Chit. YN19

Print Bar

After spending more than 10 years working for the Four Seasons hotel group all over the world, David Stanton decided to quit and fulfil his dream of opening a small drinking joint. This represents that dream being fulfilled, a bar with an easy-going atmosphere sat on the bustling Soi Thonglor.

The walls of the small downstairs area are decked out in all sorts of faux press clippings and black-and-white sketches while a yellow set of stairs leads up to a more private mezzanine zone.

When the weather gets cooler, a convertible glass wall swings back to give the vibe of an open-air bar. There’s a decent list of signature cocktails to try, most of which go heavy on the herbs, while the food side of things is more about snacks than full-blown mains. 159/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (opposite to Ei8ht Thonglor), 085-782-1866. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1:30am. ZC6 the speakeasy

The St Regis Bar — With a great New York Mad Men vibe and impressive views this bar also boasts a daily Champagne sabre ritual and their Thai take on the Bloody Mary. 12/F St. Regis Hotel, 159 Rachadamri Rd., 02-207-7777.

BTS Rajadamri. www.stregis.com. Open daily from noon-1pm. YN18 Q Bar­— The Soi 11 institution continues to deliver a heady mix of bass lines and international DJs but their remodelled 2nd floor, with a large outdoor patio, means it’s also a great spot to kick back with friends. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-3274. BTS Nana. Open daily 8pm-1am.

ZA1

Y NEW WOOBar­— The signature bar of W

Bangkok proves much more than a regular lobby space thanks to its glitzy purple décor inspired by Muay Thai boxing, a chic selection of music ranging from lounge to techno, played by some of Bangkok’s hottest DJs, and creative cocktails using gastronomic techniques like fermentation and infusions. Lobby, W Bangkok, 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4000. Open daily 9am-midnight. BTS Chong Nonsi XH12

woobar

ThongLor/Ekkamai Y NEW The Bookshop — Located next to

the lobby of a high-end condominium, this is the latest brainchild of nightlife impresario Ashley Sutton, the man behind ever-popular Iron Fairies and Fat Gut’z, who delivers a characteristically playful and bizarre interior reminding us of Professor Dumbledore’s library with a creative drinks menu by mixologist Joseph Boroski to match. G/F, Ashton Condominium, Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-1874949. Open daily 11am-midnight. BTS Thong Lo. ZD5

Clouds — The futuristic vision is certainly striking— from the undulating ceiling, sporting anything from roses to Barbies, to the acrylic seating. Potent cocktails from the laboratory of a bar add to the techno-eco-inspired theme.

G/F, Seenspace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02185-2365. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZB6 Iron Fairies — Like no other bar in Bangkok, it actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies. A great live band and powerful cocktails make this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-8875. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. ZB6 Mellow — Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, affluent locals, attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and delicious cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am. ZA6

Y NEW Moose Bar — This revamped space above vintage furniture store Y50 offers a no-frills ambience and acoustic live music on weekdays, and more fun beats on weekends.

Ekkamai Soi 21. Open daily 5pm-1am. www. facebook.com/MooseBangkok

Riverside Babble + Rum — This riverside restaurant and bar is clad in a modern French-café decor, finished with dark woods and leather couches.

An outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area make it the perfect spot for a chill night out. 1-2/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Arthit Rd., 02-633-5000. Open daily 6:30am-1am. www. rivasurya.com WQ27 Viva & Aviv — Fitting for its riverside location, this venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nauticallyinspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive, well-made cocktails and pub grub. River City, 23 Yota Rd., 02-639-6305.

Open daily 11am-midnight. www.vivaaviv.com Three Sixty — Sat on the 32nd floor of this riverside hotel you can enjoy the amazing views courtesy of the slanted windows that run around this striking circular space while appreciating the regular live jazz and good selection of wines. 32/F, Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-442-2000. Open daily 5pm-1am. Free ferry from BTS Saphan Thaksin. www.hilton.co.uk/bangkok

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HEALTH + WELLNESS Diora Spa

Set in the new lifestyle complex adjacent to the Holiday Inn Hotel Sukhumvit 22, Diora Spa takes you away from the bustling streets with its minimal, Japanese-inspired space completed by dark woods and soft lighting. There are 20 treatment rooms spread over three floors.

Available treatments vary from a relaxing foot massage to rejuvenating body and facial treatments. One of the highlights is the hot stone massage with aroma oil (B1,600/90 minutes, B2,100/120 minutes).

To celebrate its opening, the spa is also offering a complimentary facial mask using gold leaf with any oil massage if you come between 9am-1pm, plus a perfume balm and a B200 shopping voucher to spend on its spa products. Open daily 9ammidnight. 1/F, One Fenix Square, Holiday Inn Sukhumvit 22, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02663-4708/9. BTS Phrom Phong. ZC4

SPA Deverana Spa — The impressive white lobby has an almost heavenly quality while the 14 individual spa rooms are little sanctuaries to enjoy a range of treatments from milk baths to body scrubs. Dusit Thani, 946 Rama IV Rd., 02-636-3596. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.deveranaspa.com XF10

LET’S RELAX — With branches around Thailand, and a wide variety of packages and trained masseuses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-662-6935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight.

More branches: www.letsrelaxspa.com ZB3

Divana Virtue Spa — Tucked down a small soi close to the bustle of Silom, Divana Virtue Spa is authentic yet homely. Situated in a century-old house, decked out in an authentic Rama V style, it sits among a small yet lush garden to create a very private and calming atmosphere. 120 North Sathorn Rd., 02-637-8883. BTS Chong Nonsi.

Open daily 9am-11pm. XG13

MULBERRY SPA — Set in a 60s-style residential compound, Mulberry Spa offers all the usual selection of treatments amid a classy-yet-cozy ambiance. 132 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1888.

MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 9am-11pm. Silom branch: 346/8-10 Silom Rd., 02-630-9888. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.mulberryspa.com

ELEMIS SPA — The Elemis Spa is the first in SE Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the ancient Arabian sauna in the Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777.

BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am-10pm. www. stregis.com/bangkok YN18 I.SAWAN — With its Tony Chi design and its classy residential cottages and treatment bungalows, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a fitness club, tennis and squash courts and a 25-meter pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com YN18 I Spa — One of Bangkok’s newest spa sanctuaries, the treatments offered here are based on therapies from China, India, Japan and Thailand, using five choices of essential oils based on Asian flowers and herbs. 9/F, The Landmark Bangkok, 138 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-252-9444. BTS Nana. www. ispathailand.com ZC1

THE ORIENTAL SPA — The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Rd., 02659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. XJ9 PaNPURI ORGANIC SPA — Hidden behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of this luxury spa.

Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1199.

Open daily 10-8pm. www.panpuri.com YM18 Le Spa with L’Occitane — Thailand’s first Le Spa with L’Occitane boasts a contemporary Thai style combined with an elegant French touch.

Treatments include the Golden Siamese Massage and Four Teas Ceremony. 9/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. between Soi 13-15, 02-126-9999. BTS Nana. ZB2 THANN SANCTUARY SPA — Their treatments use their locally-made spa products and are offered within a tranquil space bathed in soothing lights.

3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.thann. info YM18

SPA@tonson — This resort style spa includes nine treatment rooms and utilizes ancient Asian healing techniques through a range of treatments. The highlight has to be the special 4-hand massage.

5F, Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-658-7980. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-9pm. www.spatonson.com YM20 Yunomori Onsen & Spa — Bangkok’s first authentic onsen (hot spring bath house) features water sourced from a hot spring in Ranong, Southern Thailand. As with traditional onsen’s in Japan bathing is done in the nude, though there are separate baths for men and women. B450 for all-day onsen, and B350 for Thai massage. A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02259-5778. Open daily 10:30am-12am.

traditional thai massage A major tourist attraction, Wat Po is just as famous for its massage school as it is for its 46-meter-long Reclining Buddha. Never mind that there’s usually a long wait and little privacy once you’re inside: massage treatments at this traditional Thai massage school never cease to attract those who want the real deal.

Wat Po’s history as a center for Thai massage dates back to 1843, when King Rama III commissioned 60 diagrams depicting various massage techniques to be inscribed on the temple’s marble walls. If you feel inspired to learn the art yourself, enroll in the temple’s training classes.

Wat Po (Wat Prachetuphon), 2 Sanamchai Rd., Phra Nakhon, 02-225-4771. Open daily 8am6pm. www.watpomassage.com WQ24

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HEALTH + WELLNESS

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Where Special | Wellness

I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok I SPA, operator of 15 luxury Thai spas in China, has opened the first spa in Thailand, bringing an exotic range of authentic health and beauty treatments from China, India, Indonesia, Japan and Thailand to pamper spa lovers with luxurious spa experiences.

Book now, quoting Where Thailand, and receive a 30% saving on all treatments at I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok. The offer is valid until March 31, 2013.

I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok, Tel: 02-252-9444 Email: info@ispathailand.com, website: www.ispathailand.com

Rejuvenate your mind, body and soul at Spa@Tonson Spa@Tonson provides a Unique & Authentic Massage that is designed to nourish your mind and body—through an array of massage techniques applied by trained professionals, that will leave you feeling relaxed and revitalized. Double your sensation with our Signature 4-Hands Aromatherapy massage. A must try for true spa lovers.

Call for special promotion: 02-658-7980 / 081-954-4366. Location: Level 5 Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Bangkok. www.spatonson.com

Krabi La Playa Resort offer new spa package Krabi La Playa Resort and The Small Krabi offering guests Celebrate our “Lanna Spa” with special package - Paradise of Lanna just 2,999 Baht for 100 minutes. The experience of this package begins with floral foot bath and relax your body and mind with the vapor of natural Thai Herb Steam, then pampering you for nourishing skin with milky bath. Followed by Thai traditional Massage which will relax your deep tension and delights the senses.

For more information please contact 66(0) 2 234 9400, info@krabilaplaya.com www.krabilaplaya.com

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BANGKOK

ShopS+Services Everyday by Karmakamet

Tucked away in the small soi right next to the Yada Building and BTS Sala Daeng station, Everyday by Karmakamet is the newest branch of the Bangkok-based aromatic products brand Karmakamet. But it looks to go beyond its sister branches in Chatuchak Market (section 4, MRT Kamphaeng Phet) and CentralWorld (2/F, BTS Chit Lom): Everyday still sells aromatic home and body products, alongside pastries and drinks; but it also retails normal little everyday items, from their own tableware, pillows and napkins to bags and t-shirts from cool Thai brands like Container and The Sleeveless Garden. 1/F, Yada Building, Silom Rd., 02-237-1148. Open daily 10am-9pm.

BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom. www. everydaykmkm.com XG10

Downtown Amarin Plaza ­— The mall’s Greco-Roman façade actually hides some unexpected gems.

ID1 on the first floor holds an interesting collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs.

496-502 Phloenchit Rd., 02-650-4704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com YM18

Erawan Bangkok ­— This mini-mall might look petite, but its three floors offer some high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including Comme des Garçons, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Lanvin and Alexander Wang.

494 Phloenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com YM18

Central Chidlom ­— The closest thing Bangkok has to Harrods, Central Chidlom first opened in 1973 and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. It’s packed with leading brands, like Bottega Venetta, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the impressive Food Hall on the ground floor and the views from the international food court, up on the seventh. 1027 Phloenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th YM19

CentralWorld ­— This massive shopping complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000-sq-meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for top brands like Topshop, Gap, Coach and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites like Boudoir, Kloset and Vickteerat.

Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www. centralworld.co.th YM18

Gaysorn ­— Thailand’s leading high-end mall is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Céline) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Phloenchit Rd., 02-656-1149.

BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com YM18 Platinum Fashion Mall ­— Platinum is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashionrelated from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even a single item is very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. www.platinumfashionmall. com YK18 MBK Center ­— Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and at bargain prices. As a result,­the chaotic MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good. Still it’s fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the 6th floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www. mbk-center.co.th YM16 Siam Center ­— One of the city’s most iconic malls has recently reopened after renovation and offers new, inspirational spaces for art and design, befitting its traditional reputation at the vanguard of the local fashion scene. The highlight is the Fashion Visionary space on the third floor, home to the flagship stores of top Thai designers like Something Boudoir, Theatre, Flynow III and multi-Thai-label store The Selected. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamcenter.co.th YM16

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ShopS+Services Siam Discovery Center ­— The sister mall of Siam Center celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul last year, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussaud’s wax museum. It also remains the place to come for Thai furniture brands.

Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www. siamdiscoverycenter.co.th YM16 Siam Paragon ­— With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like H&M and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a cinema. As well as lots of restaurants, there’s also a food court in the basement. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-6901000. BTS Siam. www.siamparagon.co.th YM17

Sukhumvit Terminal 21 ­— Boasting an airport terminalcum-international destinations theme. As you travel through the nine floors you can stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the higher floors offer a host of intriguing boutiques by Thai designers.

There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888.

BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21. co.th ZB3

The Emporium ­— Set in the heart of the city’s upscale residential area (home to Bangkok’s largest Japanese community), The Emporium offers luxury shopping, thanks to its tenant portfolio, which includes brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Prada, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal, Thann and Jim Thompson.

There are also lots of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative & Design Center on the top floor. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000.

BTS Phrom Phong. www.emporiumthailand. com ZC4

Elsewhere Asiatique — This evenings-only shopping center is the first to sit on the banks of the Chao Phraya River and is themed according to the city’s architecture of old. Divided into several sections, ranging from the panoramic waterfront to a 100-year old refurbished sawmill, it includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashions and intriguing souvenirs, plus offers a variety of eateries, beer gardens and wine bars. The gigantic venue is also home to a new ferris wheel and the Joe Louis puppet theater and restaurant. You can catch the free ferry from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin). 2194 Charoenkrung R d., 02-108-4488. Open daily 4pm-midnight.

Y

MARKETS Chatuchak Market — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is one of the world’s largest weekend markets. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections, roughly categorized by the products each section offers. You can literally spend the weekend here amid the warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 10-24 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home-decor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.chatuchak.org Talat Rod Fai — This al fresco night bazaar has become a hot spot for vintage finds, thanks to the mix of retro fashion, décor and toys for sale and because of the laid-back ambience created by the ad hoc bars and cafés. Kamphaeng Phet Rd. MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Fri-Sun, 4pmmidnight.

Y SPoTLIGHT

Nine Seven Nine Multi-brand concept stores are the hot trend in Bangkok, with an array of new outlets opening recently. One of the latest is Nine Seven Nine on the first floor of Siam Center. In a refreshing change from most new stores in town, which all seem to be finished with industrial themes, Nine Seven Nine offers up raw and futuristic touches: plain white surfaces, bare ceilings, hanging spiral lamps and jackets displayed in glass showcases. With a range featuring niche international and Thai (with international recognition) designers like Comme des Garcons, Be&D, Alexander Wang, Ek Thongprasert and The Only Son, this place is clearly for fashionistas who are happy to pay more for something unique. They promise their range will be regularly updated and will stock limited and rare finds.

1/F, Siam Center, 02-658-1000. YM16

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Find out the latest news on Thailand at Facebook.com/WhereThailand | Www.wherethailand.com

30 W H E R E t h a i land I apr i l 2013

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3/22/13 6:39 PM

BANGKOK

Navigate

Y

GET MOVING AIRPORT LINk—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (tenminute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 15-20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B90 one-way and B150 roundtrip for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.

Mount in the heart of the Old Town, stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically-challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.

Z Dining

CANAL BOATS­—While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only one canal (klong) still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden 1

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BANGKOK

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frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a Tha Tien Piergreat way to get a different perspective on Tha the·‹Phrachan city,Pier Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã ·‹ÒàµÕ¹ as well as a good option for getting to many of the Shopping 1. Everyday by temples and palaces built along the river. The main Karmakamet G10 Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan 2. OP Place J9 Taksin with boats heading upstream from here Art & Attractions and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to 1. Gossip Gallery 2 Nonthaburi. Fares range from 9 B9 to B32 depending 1 I10 1 on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket Wat Phra Kaeo 2. H Gallery H11 ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ Po ÇѴ⾸Ô์ (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and 3. Kathmandu 2PhotoWat Gallery I11 comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading 4. Serindia Galtourist attractions accessible from the river. lery J9 5. Silom Galleria I10

skytrain/underground—The Wat Rajapardit ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃдÔÉ°

Bangkok Skytrain (BTS) stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom Line, Wat Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·Ñȹ which runs from across the river in Talat Phlu to National Stadium; and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines.

1. Body Tune G10 2. Devarana Spa F10 3. Divana Virtue Spa I12 4. Health Land G13 5. So SPA F12 R 6. Spa Botanica G13 7. The Oriental India Emporium ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ÍÔ¹à´Õ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ Spa J9

The Old Siam Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ China World ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ䫹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´

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main Central Business District before turning 26 27 North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past 28 Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) Chatuchak and ending at Bang Sue station.

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Fares are B15-B40 for both trains. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get 4 special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, 1 go to www.bts.co.th and www.bangkokmetro.co.th.

3 Phra Athit Pier Note that the BTS and MRT use different ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍҷԵ ticketing systems.

Wat Chana Songkram ÇÑ´ª¹Ðʧ¤ÃÒÁ

TAXIS—In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for thePolice first two kilometers. Despite their Station ʶҹյÓÃǨ many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price.

Democracy Monument ͹ØÊÒÇÃÕ »ÃЪҸԻäµÂ

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7

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Sam Yan ÊÒÁ‹ҹ

3

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banking hours—Banking hours are generally from 8:30am to43:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

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tralia 02-2514-173, Austria 02-287-3970, Belgium 02-679-5465, Brazil 02-679-8567, Bulgaria 02-3916180, Cambodia 02-636-0540, China 02-245-7043, ATMS—ATMs are very common in Bangkok and Czech Republic 02-255-3027, Denmark 02-213Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์ can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located 2021, Egypt 02-262-0236, Finland 02-256-9306, outside of 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able France 02-266-8250, Ghana 02-641-5214, Germany to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

Chong Nonsi 02-287-9000, Greece 02-679-1462, ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ Iceland 023 2 237-8010, India 02-258-0300, Indonesia 02-2522 City Viva 3135, Iran 02-259-0611, Ireland 02-223-0876, Israel Dining 1. Supatra Riverside P26 02-204-9200, Italy 02-252-6151, Korea (South) St. Louis Hospital 2. The Deck Q23 âç¾ÂÒºÒÅૹµ ËÅØÂÊ 02-247-7537, Laos 02-539-6667, Malaysia 02-679Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ 2190, Mexico 02-285-0815, Morocco 02-653-2444, Health & Wellness 3 3 1. Wat Po Q24 Myanmar 02-233-2237,Pan Nepal 02-391-7240, NethRd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹ 7 erlands 02-254-7701, Norway 02-302-6415, New Art & Attractions Surasak ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ 1. Grand Palace/Museum of Textiles Q25 Zealand 02-254-2530, Nigeria 02-391-5197, Pakistan Soi Silom 1 9 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 2. Museum Siam1 Q23 02-253-0288, Peru 1 5 02-260-6243, Philippines 3. National Gallery Q27 02-259-0139, Portugal 02-234-7435, Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØRussia Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢ ÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ 024. National Museum Q27 268-1169, Saudi Arabia 02-639-2999, Switzerland 5. Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall S26 6. Royal Barge Museum P27 02-253-0156, Singapore 02-286-2111, Spain 02-2527. The Queen’s Gallery S27 6112, Sri-Lanka 02-331-6384, Sweden 02-302-0360, Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔ Þ¡Ãا Saphan Taksin 8. Wat Arun (Temple 5 ÊоҹµÒ¡ÊÔ ¹ of Dawn) P22 Taiwan 02-670-0220, Tunisia 02-692-5071, Turkey 9. Wat Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald 7 02-274-7262, United Arab Emirates 02-639-9820, Buddha) Q25 4 OP Place Oriental Pier United Kingdom 02-305-8333, United States of Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕ¹àµÅ Nightlife ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã America 02-205-4000, Syria 02-254-7961, Vietnam 1. Babble & Rum Q27 TO TALAT PHLU STATION 02-251-5838.

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ

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getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo 8 opportunities.

However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a G price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Soi Convent «Í¤͹áǹµ major EMBASSIES & CONSULATES­—Argentina 02-259-0401, Aus4 ¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

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Health & Wellness 1. Aster Spring M18 2. Elemis Spa N18 3. i.Sawan N18 4. Panpuri Spa M18 5. Romrawin M19

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

3

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N20 2. Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) M16 3. Jim Thompson Art Center & House L1 5 4. Madame Tussauds M16 5. Siam Ocean World M17 6. Sombat Permpoon Gallery L21

vat refunds­—Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers to get your form stamped. Then, after check-in and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts not exceeding B30,000, will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refund amounts exceeding B30,000, will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

Hospitals­—Bumrungrad International, (Sukhumvit Soi 1-3, 02-667-1000, emergency 02-667-2999), Bangkok Hospital (Soi Soonvijai, Petchaburi Rd., 02-310-3000), BNH Hospital (Convent Rd., 02-686-2700), Samitivej Sukhumvit (Sukhumvit 49, 02-711-8181), Siriraj SiPH (Phrannok Rd., 1474).

Essential Numbers Emergency Services (Fire Brigade, Police) 191 Airport Rail Link 02-308-5600. http://airportraillink.railway.co.th Bangkok Taxi Call Center 1681 / 1661 Bangkok Mass Transit System (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th BTS Tourist Information Center : 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th Bangkok Metro (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6ammidnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th Chao Phraya Express Boat Call Center 02-6236001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com Suvanbhumi International Airport 1722/02-1321888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) – 1672. www.tourismthailand.org Tourist Police 24-hour call center 1155

34 W H E R E t h a i land I apr i l 2013

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Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃس

Memorial Brid ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊо

6

Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

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21 Things we LOve about Thailand

3

!5

5

!6 6 Sampling some of the 100-plus ales and lagers on offer at warm and welcoming bar BeerVault (www. facebook.com/BeerVault).

2 Snorkeling in the crystal clear waters off the beaches of the Andaman island of Koh Tachai.

7 Watching the locals going through their early morning workouts in Lumphini Park, in downtown Bangkok.

4 Learning how to cook some Thai food and supporting a worthwhile local charity at the Helping Hands Cooking School (www. cookingwithpoo.com).

5 Slurping up a bowl of authentic Hokkien Noodles in the heart of Phuket’s historic old town at Mee Ton Poh (214/7 Phuket Rd., 076-216-293, open daily 10am-6pm).

8

!7

1 Following the monks as they wander through the mist collecting alms at Chiang Khan situated on the Thai-Lao border.

3 Sipping a warm cup of tea while enjoying the rich history and fivestar service at Mandarin Oriental’s Author’s Lounge (Oriental Pier).

Y

!2 Admiring the work of established

!7 Learning the history of Thai silk

and emerging contemporary Thai and international artists at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BTS National Stadium, www.bacc.or.th).

and admiring the stunning dresses on display at Queen Sirikit Textile Museum at The Grand Palace.

!8 Staying overnight at one of the houseboat rafts on Cheow Larn Lake in the stunning Kao Sok National Park.

!3 Soaking up the sun on the secluded beaches of Koh Kradan, south of Phang Nga.

!9 Rummaging for everything from 8 Savoring the sunset with a cocktail !4 Enjoying the creative Thai dishes in hand at Red Sky on the rooftop of CentralWorld mall.

9 Experiencing the fireflies and traditional ambiance at Amphawa floating market. !0 Browsing for the finest Thai silks at the various silk stores in Bangkok.

Try Almeta Silk (Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-204-1413, www.almeta.com)

!1 Browsing the quirky stalls filled with authentic retro items at Talat Rod Fai night market (MRT Kamphaeng Phet).

on offer at Chef Ian Kittichai’s Issaya Siamese Club (4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., 02-672-9040-1. www. issaya.com).

edgy fashions to teakwood furniture at the world’s largest weekend market, Chatuchak (JJ) Market (MRT Kamphaeng Phet).

@0 Staying up late, or getting up early, !5 Catching a free traditional Thai

to experience the chaos of the daily flower trading at Pak Klong Talat, Thailand’s largest flower market.

puppet show at Bangkok’s Baan Silapin artist community (02-8685279, thaipuppeteer@gmail.com).

@1 Going food stall-hopping, trying !6 Getting a glimpse of what Bangkok used to be like with a klong tour around the old canals (klongs) of Nonthaburi from Saphan Taksin Pier.

everything from authentic Chinese snacks to fresh seafood on Bangkok’s Yaowarat Road (China Town).

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Hong Kong, Singapore

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CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

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