Where® Thailand May 2013 by Where Thailand

Thailand

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M ay 2 0 13 the complete guide to go 速

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Spa Secrets Our favorite spots to refresh, rejuvenate and relax

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contents where

l THAILAND l MAY 2013

The Guide

Bangkok

17 arts+Culture A round up of new art galleries and a medical museum opens by the river

19 Business Traveler Useful listings to support all of your potential business needs

20 dining A new Japanese restaurant with a view and the most venerable Thai restaurants

24 nightlife A new bar that is part noodle shop and part speakeasy, plus the best hotel happy hours

Features

26 Health+Wellness

05 l And Relax...

Top spas and clinics and a soothing treatment to beat the summer heat

We round up the very best spas in Bangkok to suit every need.

28 SHOPS+Services Jim Thompson launch their new collection and the edgy fashion hub of Siam Square

10 l Historic hideaway The sleepy town of Phrae offers up authentic culture and architecture.

30 Maps Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin

Escapes

also inside

12 travel News

12 Managing Editor/Publisher Nick Measures Editor Top Koaysomboon General Manager James Fuss Managing Editor Grégoire Glachant Sub-editor Carl Dixon Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapon

4 Hot dates

The latest deals, promotions and

30 navigate

events around the Kingdom.

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Marketing Executive Natta Yantasri Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant Interns Korkamol Porapuckham, Thamonwan Poungdee

35 21 things we love

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

Mvp | National Sales Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com

Mvp | Cartography And Circulation General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

On the cover So SPA at Sofitel So Bangkok by Monruedee Jansuttipan

Morris Comunications Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand @where_thailand

www.wherethailand.com

Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris Iii President William S. Morris Iv Mvp | Creative Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

Mvp | Technology & Manufacturing Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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Where hot dates

Courtesy of Ministry of Agriculture and Cooperatives

May 13

Royal Ploughing Ceremony

Phantom of the Opera The multi-award winning musical by Andrew Lloyd Webber which tells the story of a disfigured musical genius who haunts the Paris Opera House and falls for the soprano Christine. This performance is based on the original London production and features an international cast. Come and see why it has become Broadway’s longest running musical and hear classic songs such as “The Phantom of the Opera” and “Music of the Night.” Daily shows at 7:30pm with extra shows at 2pm on Sat/Sun. Muang Thai Rachadalai Theatre, 4/F, The Esplanade, 99 Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02-262-3456. Tickets B1,500-5,500.

Held annually at Sanam Luang, located in front of the Grand Palace, the Royal Ploughing Ceremony is an ancient Hindu-influenced rite to mark the traditional beginning of the rice planting season. Officials dressed in ornate ceremonial outfits will lead two sacred oxen to plough the grounds before they offer the animals different types of food (rice, corn, liquor and more). A Brahman fortuneteller will then predict the coming harvest based on what food the oxen choose. The King or a royal dignitary will usually attend. Sanam Luang, Phranakhon, Bangkok. Phra Chan/Chang Pier. Contact TAT Contact Center 1672 for further details. May 23

Deftones Live in Bangkok bentoe bike,pruekraphic

The much-loved Californian heavy metal group the Deftones are all set to play Bangkok this month appearing at CentrePoint Studio in Bangna (9, 11 Sukhumvit 105 (Soi Lasalle); Bangna, 02-361-9229). The 2001 Grammy Award-winners will hit the stage in support of their latest studio album Koi No Yokan released last year. Tickets are available for B1,800.

May 2-5

May 9

May 24

Bangkok Bike

David Guetta Live

Visaka Bucha Day

It might lag behind other big cities but Bangkok is currently in the midst of a love affair with bicycles for both recreational and regular use. Building on this progress, a new event Bangkok Bike looks to offer local and visiting cyclists a host of ideas on how to get onto two wheels and enjoy Thailand better. The fair will see the Tourism Authority of Thailand unveil six new bicycle routes which take in five provinces, feature special bike shows and performances, and offer lots of stalls selling the latest gadgets and gear. Hall 4, Impact Muang Thong Thani, Chaengwattana Rd., Nonthaburi. Open daily 10am-8pm.

After rumors of a gig failed to materialize last year Bangkokians will be bouyed by the news that legendary French DJ and producer David Guetta is set stop by for real this May. The king of house music, has sold over six million albums and 15 million singles worldwide and worked with anyone whose anyone in the pop world, from Nikki Minaj and Usher to Rihanna and Kelly Rowland. Head along to enjoy his major hits like “When Love Takes Over,” “Gettin’ Over You” and “Sexy Chick.” Tickets B1,732-2,374. 8pm at BITEC, Bang Na Trat Rd., BTS Bang Na.May 7-June 9

Falling on the date of the full moon of the sixth lunar month, Visaka Bucha is perhaps the most important day of the Buddhist calendar. It is the day that three major events in Lord Buddha’s life took place: his birth, his enlightenment and his death. To celebrate many Thais will rise early to visit their temple to give food to monks and make merit. Later in the evening, devotees undertake candlelit processions called Wien Tien walking three times around the main shrine or temple to represent the cornerstones of Buddhism: Buddha, his teachings (Dhamma) and the monkhood (Sangha). All temples will hold special events. Please note as it’s a Buddhist holiday, alcohol will not be sold all day.

Unless stated otherwise, tickets for all events can be purchased through ThaiTicketMajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com), which also has outlets at Zen, Central department stores and Major Cineplex theaters. Visit their website for full details of locations.

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Refresh Yourself Bangkok’s multitude of top spas offer head to toe rejuvenating treatments I.Sawan

hile May could see the rainy season’s first showers, it remains one of Thailand’s hottest months. After a long day exploring temples and haggling at the market or a long night hopping from bar to bar, here are the top spots in Bangkok to refresh, detox and recharge your batteries whatever your preference.

For him i.sawan While there are numerous spas and beauty clinics in Bangkok that have treatments specifically tailored to women, there are less offering rejuvenating solutions aimed at men. Set in a beautiful Tony Chi-designed space the wonderful resort-like i.sawan and its collection of spa cottages is one of those places. They have three different programs catering for male guests: Man Space Sports, which looks to realign body posture and eliminate muscle damage after hard workouts or long journeys; The Man Space Tranquility, which is a destressing hot oil massage that originally

comes from Hawaii; and the Man Space Healing Balance, which combines hot stone therapy, healing crystals and therapeutic massage techniques to improve low energy and stress. There are also two lengthier packages combining an array of scrubs, wraps and massage options available as well as full and half day packages which allow you use of the adjoining fitness club and its tennis and squash courts, and swimming pool. B2,900/60 minutes, B3,900/90 minutes for each program. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234.

i.sawan

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Where feature For couples So SPA So SPA perched on the 11th floor of the cutting-edge Sofitel So Bangkok on Sathorn Road, offers the added bonus of a relaxing view over the greenery of Lumphini Park, to its dimly lit, forestthemed décor. Their special couples package takes place in the double treatment room, which ensures couples can enjoy that view from the comfort of their own bathtub. The session begins with a 60-minute So Exhilarating soothing massage for both men and women, followed by a 60-minute Ko Bi Do facial treatment for her—inspired by the ancient ritual of the Japanese Empresses’ facial rouine it uilizes the dust of pearls, diamonds, opals and turquoises in facial creams to create glowing skin. Meanwhile, he can be enjoying a 60-minute Hipster Men facial treatment, which aims to deliver cleaner and fresher skin.

Elemis SPa

B9,100/120 minutes/2 people. Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd., 02-6240000. www.sofitel-so-bangkok.com

so spa

Japanese Approach For something very different you could always pay a visit to the Yunomori Onsen & Spa. Bangkok’s first authentic Japanese onsen (hot spring bath house) features water sourced from a hot spring in Ranong, Southern Thailand. According to traditional onsen culture, no clothes are allowed for men, though women can wear the disposable underwear provided. B450 for all-day onsen, and B350 for Thai massage. A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-259-5778. Open daily 10:30am-12am. www.facebook. com/YunomoriOnsen

Divana SPa

For traditionalists Spa at Face

For tired skin Divana Virtue Spa

Tucked away within a beautiful compound of wooden Thai houses, this spa takes you on a trip back in time thanks to its traditional setting and a series of massages and therapies that utilize old-school principles. One of the most popular is the Wat Pho Healer, named after the renowned Thai massage school. It starts with your choice of body scrubs using Thai herbs, and is then followed up with a choice between an Ayurvedic massage, or an herbal compress and oil massage. The program ends with a more focused massage for your head, feet, back and shoulders. Continue the mood after your treatment by enjoying a drink at the Face Bar before getting some Thai cuisine amid an impressive collection of ancient artifacts at Lanna Thai which are both located within the same complex.

The Divana Virtue Spa is set in a century-old house with its own private garden hidden in a small lane off Sathorn Road. In a bid to combat the hot and humid month of May, Divana has created the Organic Thai Rice Therapy, which utilizes the natural benefits of young organic Thai rice and rice bran oil—perfect for those with dry skin. The program combines six steps, beginning with a body rub of aloe vera and yeast serum, followed by herbal steam using rice water, a body scrub using young rice and young rice milk, a warm body wrap and a body massage using hot stones and wheat serum. The session ends with an organic rice milk bath containing pink jasmine rice and yeast serums to nourish and brighten skin. The spa is currently offering a 30% discount for this program until June 30.

B3,500/180 minutes. 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02713-6048. BTS Thong Lo. www.facebars.com

B7,150/180 minutes. 10 Srivieng Rd., 02-2366788. BTS Surasak. www.divanavirtuespa.com

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feature Where Y For a whole day escape Rasayana Retreat

Kamalaya

Holiday Retreats Thailand’s best spa resorts Kamalaya Kamalaya might not be the most luxurious resort in Samui, but it is certainly one of Thailand’s best integrated wellness retreats. Programs are varied but newcomers should try the full-board, introduction program that aims to cleanse toxins from your body with a diet of pure organic food (no meat or sugary fruits and vegetables) and a number of body treatments over three days. More advanced programs, including colonic detox, are available for longer stays. Until October 31, special rates for Asia residents are from B39,000 per person for a selective threenight program. 102/9 Moo 3, Laem Set, Na Muang, Koh Samui, 077-429-800. www.kamalaya.com

Thanks to its location hidden deep in the residential area of Sukhumvit, the leafy complex of Rasayana Retreat is perfect for those wishing to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city and recharge their batteries with a full-day retreat. Among the menu of holistic treatments, the highlights have to be the detoxification and therapeutic massage options. The one-day package lets you experience both, starting with an infrared sauna session, followed by a salt scrub, detox bath, oil pack, aromatherapy massage and a colonic detox. Your five-hour program is completed with a specially-designed “living foods” meal at the retreat’s raw food cafe.

For mothers-to-be Elemis Spa Pregnancy can be stress-inducing and exhausting, leading to side effects like back ache and swollen feet. This is why the Elemis Spa, a luxury retreat located on the 15th floor of the St. Regis Hotel has created a special program just for moms-to-be. The nurturing massage aims to be a safe but tension-relieving treatment that focuses on using lighter touches and the unique body position offered by the Elemis beanbag to work on the lower and upper back, shoulders and scalp. B4,500/90 minutes. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7779. www.elemisspabangkok.com

B7,250/5 hours (doctor consultation included). 57 Soi Prommitr, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-6624803. www.rasayanaretreat.com

Chiva-Som The long-running spa resort in Hua Hin continues to win awards and remains a favorite retreat destination among British celebrities like Liz Hurley, David Beckham and Kate Moss. This complex of beachfront Thai-style villas offer several retreat programs catering for every need starting from three-day packages, which include three spa meals per day, a daily massage session and holistic consultations. From B72,000 for single occupancy and from B108,000 for double occupancy. 73/4 Petchakasem Rd., Hua Hun, Prachuab Khirikhan, 032536-536. www.chivasom.com

Banyan Tree Spa Sanctuary Launched in 2012, this extension of the luxurious Banyan Tree Resort in Phuket comes with 14 classic Thai-style pool villas equipped with top-end amenities including their own private steamroom and spa beds for in-room treatments. Room rates only include breakfast but specific spa treatments and special meals packages can be created upon request. From B22,612. Laguna Phuket, Bang Tao Beach, 076-324-324. www.banyantree. com/en/phuket_spa_sanctuary

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Traditional Thai Massage A major tourist attraction, Wat Po is just as famous for its massage school as it is for its 46-meter-long Reclining Buddha. Never mind that there’s usually a long wait and little privacy once you’re inside: massage treatments at this traditional Thai massage school never cease to attract those who want the real deal. Wat Po’s history as a center for Thai massage dates back to 1843, when King Rama III commissioned 60 diagrams depicting various massage techniques to be inscribed on the temple’s marble walls. If you feel inspired to learn the art yourself, you can enroll in the temple’s training classes. Wat Po (Wat Prachetuphon), 2 Sanamchai Rd., Phra Nakhon, 02-2254771. Open daily 8am-6pm. www. watpomassage.com WQ24 S Medical

Apex

For a younger you Apex Medi Spa

For a colonic detox S Medical Spa

The renowned medical spa and beauty clinic offers a relaxing location in the heart of the city’s upmarket neighborhood of Thong Lor. They also presents some of the most cutting-edge beauty treatments including a new facial service that’s exclusive to Thailand. Made famous by celebrity customers like Kim Kardashian and its presence in the Oscars goodie bag this year, Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) therapy, also more gruesomely nicknamed the Vampire Face Lift, offers a new way of filling in wrinkles by reusing elements of your own blood. Platelet-rich-plasma which occurs naturally in the patient’s blood is combined with hyaluronic acid and directly injected into the wrinkled areas of the face. The PRP helps stimulate collagen in the skin and promises to improve skin elasticity and remove lines and wrinkles in two or three weeks. One of the biggest benefits over more traditional face lifts is that the treatment takes around 20 minutes while the results should last for at least 15 months.

Founded by a renowned local anti-aging physician, this award-winning spa creates beauty from within, with a selection of integrated wellness programs, including a colonic detox treatment. S Medical Spa’s Dr. Pakpilai Thavisin explains that a colon hydrotherapy session can help eliminate the waste materials that accumulate in the digestive system. “These waste materials form mucoid, a toxic substance that coats the intestinal wall. The body can then reabsorb these toxins back into the bloodstream, which, in turn, can lead to illnesses like muscle pains and migraines.” The treatment sees warm electrolyte water, then organic coffee, and finally a course of probiotics flushed through the colon. The end result looks to leave you refreshed and toxin-free. All treatments are tailored to your needs in consultation with the spa’s in-house doctors. B3,531/60 minutes, inclusive of doctor consultation and sauna/steam usage. 2/2 Wireless Rd., 02-253-1010. BTS Phloen Chit. www.smedspa.com

B40,000/20 minutes. Apex Medi Spa, Thonglor Soi 8 (behind 8ight Thonglor complex), Sukhumvit 55, 080-500-0123. www.apexprofoundbeauty.com Apex

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Where around thailand

A Sleeping Beauty Discovering the peaceful town of Phrae in the North of Thailand.

Ban Wichairaja

Khum Chao Luang

Ban Wongburi

hrae, a province in northern Thailand, hasn’t really been on anyone’s radar since its glory days as one of the largest centers of the teak trade. Nowadays, the town is normally used by tourists as a stop off on the way to the popular heritage and cultural center of Nan. But with Nan starting to suffer from its own success and becoming rather flooded with visitors, Phrae is rising as a unique destination offering a charming and authentic blend of beautiful architecture, historic religious sites and traditional lifestyles.

Historic Story Most of the historic buildings that paint a visual picture of the story of Phrae are located within the old town, making it pretty easy to explore all of them on foot. Still, if you don’t want to do the hard work, the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) offers a guided tour in the back of a three-wheeled rickshaw (contact 086587-2759, 081-673-9841, or TAT Phrae 054-521-118/127). You have the choice between two routes: a two-hour trip (B250/person) and a slightly longer twoand-a- half hour route (B300/person) that lets you explore more sites. Both trips begin at Khum Chao Luang (the Prince’s Residence) on Khum Doem Road. This Victorian-influenced teak mansion was built in 1892 during the reign of Prince Phiriya Theppawong, the

former ruler of Phrae, and is now where visitors can brush up on the history of the province. Before the formation of the modern state of Thailand, provinces in the North (like Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Nan and Phrae) were individual states governed by their own princes. After the unification of the country during the reign of King Rama V (1853-1910), these city-centric states turned into prefectures, and later provinces, under the control of the central government but the princes and their families remained revered by the people. Prince Phiriyachai Thepphawong was ultimately accused of being involved in the Ngiao rebellion against the central government in 1902, which saw the governor of Phrae killed, and the prince ended up fleeing to Luang Prabang. However, the story is told differently by

Huern Na Na

Essentials Getting to Phrae Nok Air (www.nokair.com) operates direct flights from Bangkok’s Don Muang Airport to Phrae four times a week on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday 11 am1pm (B2,414-2,460)

Where to Stay Huern Na Na is the newest and classiest boutique hotel in Phrae. The 28-room hotel sits in the center of town, close to the main tourist attractions and the business district. The building and rooms are decked out in a minimal style with touches of lanna art like paintings by local artists, pottery, textiles, and cotton throws. 719 Sasibutra Rd., Nai Vieng, Muang, Phrae, 054-524800. www.huernnana.com

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Karnjana Anekayuwat

around thailand Where Y

Wat Sa Bo kaeo

Local Style

Wat Luang

Khum Chao Luang Ban Wongburi

Prapapan and Mo Hom

Wat Phra Bat Ming Muang

Chiang Rai Mae hong sorn

Phayao

Chiang Mai

Ban Wichairaja

Lam poon

Nan

Lampang Phrae

uttaradit

locals here in Phrae. They claim the prince was actually a hero who saved the city from the rebels. Now, the magnificent colonial-style building, which is decorated with hand-carved wooden eaves, and intricate shutters and doors, showcases how the former prince used to live. Please note that Khum Chao Luang is undergoing some renovation work which should be completed in October. The next two stops also have a regal connection. Ban Wongburi (50, Kham Lue Road, 05-462-0153. B20 entry. Open daily 8am-5pm) belonged to Mae Chao Bua Tha, the first wife of Prince Phiriya Theppawong, and her nephew, Chao Sunanta Wongburi. This century-old pinkcolored teakwood house is still home to her descendants who have now converted part of the building into a museum letting visitors view old documents (including an old slave contract) and get an insight into how people used to live. The house is also famous as being the setting for several Thai television series. Nearby Wat Sriboonreung is Ban Wichairaja, which was the former residence of the Phra Wichai Raja, a member of the Phrae royal family and

previously a base for the Thai resistance movement (Seri Thai) under the Japanese occupation of WWII. It lay abandoned for years until an old war veteran Veera Star discovered it a few years ago and decided to spend all his money restoring the teak house to its former glory. The renovation is still ongoing and Veera will happily accept donations to continue the work. The Museum of Forestry Training Center (Training Center1, Kumderm Rd., Mueang, Phrea, 054-5111048.) is also an interesting place to visit due to Phrae’s central role in the Thai teak trade for over a hundred years. It showcases a wide variety of pictures, inventions, and equipment related to the teak timber business.

Sacred Structures Perhaps the clearest sign of Phrae’s distinct local culture, which combines central Thai, Burmese, Lao and Tai Lue beliefs, is through the old town’s collection of temples. Wat Luang (Kham Lue Road, Soi 1, Tambon Nai Wiang) is probably the most important buddhist temple in Phrae, built back in 829, it is home to invaluable artifacts including

In Thung Hong sub-district, a few kilometers from the town center, Prapapan Sritrai and members of her community, Thong Hom, have looked to reinvent the traditional practice of making Mo Hom, a cotton fabric dyed with organic leaves. The locally grown hom leaves are fermented for a couple of days in a base solution so that they release a deep, indigo-blue color. A visit to the cooperative gives you the chance to try dying some cotton before browsing the array of fashion items, fabrics and accessories available. You need to book in advance for a dying trial, contact Prapapan at 054-521-7019, 089-851-3048.

a collection of old Lanna (northern-Thai) buddhist images and a 500-year-old stone inscription. Within the temple compound you’ll also find the Phrae Museum and the 200-year-old Phrae Culture Hall, which offer a variety of antiques and artifacts relating to the town’s past. Wat Phrabat Ming Muang (Charoen Mueang Road) was a result of combining two old temples in 1937: a Lanna-style ordination hall home to the sacred Phra Buddha Kosai Sirichai Mahasakaya Munee Buddha’s image and an old pagoda containing a replica of the Buddha’s footprint. The final stop on the tour is Wat Sa Bo Kaew (aka Wat Jong Klang) which features beautiful Burmesestyle architecture and houses a sacred marble Buddhist image. If you head a little further afield, around 9 kilometers from Phrae’s old town, Wat Phra That Chor Hair is believed to have been built in 1336-1338 to store various Buddha relics. Phra That Chor Hair is regarded as the chedi of people born in the Year of the Dog in the Chinese zodiac and will bring them good luck and prosperity if they come here to pray. may 2013 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 11

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Where ESCAPES

Travel News Grand openings, hot promotions and special events throughout Thailand KC Beach Club

Samui Regatta

Hansar

SOS In an App In a bid to ensure visitors to Thailand feel safe, secure and well informed at all times, the Thai Police has recently launched a new mobile phone application. The Tourist Buddy Application provides information about tourist destinations and special events as well as giving details about police station locations and direct access to the tourist police. This application can be downloaded now via iTunes for iPhone and iPad, and will soon be available for Android users as well.

The Beach Samui

KOH SAMUI, SURAT THANI

Island Wedding

Designs for Summer

Those considering tying the knot in Thailand might be interested to know that the high-end beachfront resort Hansar Samui is currently offering a range of wedding packages to help ensure a dream day. The Tropical Wedding Package is priced at B95,000 net and includes floral decorations, a welcome procession, a beach or beachside ceremony, professional photographer, celebration toast, wedding cake and more. Meanwhile, the Deluxe Wedding Package priced at B190,000 net also features before-and-after-wedding spa treatments and a magical candlelight dinner by the Gulf of Thailand. Both these packages are valid until December 19, 2013, and include special rates on rooms ranging from B5,600 to B7,800 per night. 101/28 Moo1, Bophut Koh Samui, Suratthani, 077245 511, www.hansarsamui.com

As the island gears up towards their high season, The Beach Samui on the quiet Thong Krut beach is all set to open its doors as the latest Thai resort to become a member of the Design Hotels group, a global collection of unique hotels. With panoramic views over Ang Thong Marine National Park, the 21 contemporary suites and penthouses all offer sea views, have their own hand-carved private terrace hot tubs and feature bespoke interiors created by leading global design house Yoo Studio. Facilities include a holistic spa, private beach, bar, restaurant and a private speedboat to explore the neighboring islands. 157/9 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach Road, Bophut, Koh Samui, 077-413-906, www.thebeachsamui.com

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ESCAPES Where Y KOH SAMUI, SURAT THANI

Samui Regatta Having started life back in 2001, the Samui Regatta has grown to become one of Asia’s largest yacht races achieving international status in 2004. The final regatta of the Asian Yachting Grand Prix season last year saw over 40 boats and 500 plus sailors take part in the eight-day event. Even if you’re not that into watching the sailing, it’s a good opportunity to come to the island and enjoy a host of after-race parties and special events. May 25-June 1. More information at www.samuiregatta.com KOH SAMUI, SURAT THANI

Beach Club Craze The popularity of beach clubs in Samui shows no signs of abating. The latest to join Beach Republic and Nikki Beach is KC Beach Club & Pool Villas on Chaweng Beach. The opening party last month saw them fly in DJs from Ibiza. Adjacent to the beach club is a contemporary-themed hotel featuring 42 guest rooms and pool villas. Rates are from B6,930-B17,640 while access to the beach club’s facilities, including two pools, is free for outside guests who spend a minimum of B500 on food and drinks.

NEW ROOM Hua Chang Heritage The Baiyoke Group, owner of Thailand’s tallest hotel and building Baiyoke Sky, has just unveiled its newest property, right next to Bangkok’s shopping district of Siam. Instead of taking things to new heights, Hua Chang Heritage, named after the bridge it overlooks, derives its theme from the Victorian architectural style, which was popular in Thailand during the reign of King Rama V (18681910). All 80 rooms and suites are furnished with white marble, mirrors and purple and scarlet accents. The location is ideal for shopaholics, within a few minutes walk of Bangkok’s best shopping malls, while guests can unwind after a long day at the swimming pool or enjoy local dishes at the hotel’s Miss Siam restaurant. Introductory rates are from B3,420 for a deluxe room. 400 Phaya Thai Rd., Bangkok, 02-217-0777. BTS National Stadium/Ratchathewi. www.huachangheritage.com

Chaweng Beach, Koh Samui, 077-915-155, www.kchotelgroup.com RATCHABURI

Street Art This month sees the launch of a striking outdoor exhibition in the art friendly town of Ratchaburi about two hours west of Bangkok. Based on a previous photo series by photographer Ralf Tooten, which featured portrait images of construction workers, this new exhibition showcases a selection of these images featuring workers from Ratchaburi. The photos have been enlarged and will be placed around the city in various public places to allow the general public to view the work. Tao Hong Tai: DKunst Gallery, Ratchaburi, 02-2870944. Open May 1-July 30, 2013. Free Admission, http://bit.ly/10l3Fb2

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Where ESCAPES

U Sansuri

Diavola Restaurant, Paresa Resort

TCDC Chiang Mai

YASOTHON

CHIANG MAI

Bun Bang Fai Rocket Creative Hub Festival The Thailand Creative & Design Center,

Sunny & Clean Energy Visitors to Bang Pa-In, Ayutthaya can now visit a new exhibition expounding the benefits of renewable energy. Created by Bangchak Public Petroleum Co. Ltd, at the site of their new solar cell energy project, the on-going Sunny Bangchak Clean Energy Exhibition uses various multi-media installations, from 4D movies to a ride that takes you into a replica mine, to look at the value of solar energy, wind power, wave energy, and also explores the use of seaweed oil to produce biodiesel. Bang Krasan, Bang Pa In, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya. Open Wed-Fri 9am-4pm, SatSun 9am-7pm. See map at www.bangchak. co.th/sunny-bangchak

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Literally one of the most explosive and unusual festivals in the Thai calendar, this is a must-visit if you happen to be up in the Isaan (northeastern) region of Thailand. Based on an old folk belief, every May local farmers look to try and coax the gods into the romantic mood needed to produce rainfall by sending huge phallic-shaped rockets or “Bang Fai” up into the heavens. Such festivals are held throughout the region but the one at Yasothon has now grown to become the biggest and best. Parties involving beauty pageants, colourful traditional costumes and local music all feature before the rockets are fired. Some rockets take months to build and can be over ten feet high, fired off from giant launch pads, making for a spectacular if slightly chaotic affair. May 12-13. More information at TAT Udonthani office 045-243-770, 045-250-714.

which was first set up at the Emporium Shopping Center in Bangkok back in 2005 has just opened a second branch in Chiang Mai. The design and creative center will look to help support and encourage creative and commercial design ideas through seminars, design and product development workshops, creative showcases, and design consulting services. Visitors to Chiang Mai will be more interested to find out that the space will also put on design and educational exhibitions. To celebrate their launch, the debut exhibition (through MYANMAR June 30) is entitled “Chiang Mai LAOS Revisited” and looks to offer a Chiang Mai new perspective on the town and explore the complex dynamics of the city and Yaso its diverse communities. Bangkok TCDC Chiang Mai, 1/1 Chonburi Ratchaburi Muang Samut Road ANDAMAN SEA Changmoi Subdistrict, Koh Muang District, Chiang Samui GULF OF Mai, 052-080-500 ext. SIAM 1. open Tue-Sun 10.30am – Phuket 6pm www.tcdc.or.th/chiangmai MALAYSIA

INDONESIA

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ESCAPES Where Y PHUKET

Lovely Loos

Charity Dinner

On our last visit to Suvarnabhumi Airport, we were blown away by the new restrooms. Forget your bog-standard lavatories; the Airport of Thailand partnered up with local tile brand Cotto to create seven differently themed toilets throughout the airport. For example, the River of Life, reminded us of a Rama V-era house on the Chao Phraya River, while Street Life impressed with its vivid orange and edgy geometric scheme. All the more reason to take a toilet break prior to your flight.

Six of Phuket’s leading hotels are giving up their chefs for the day to take part in a very special charity dinner in aid of underprivileged girls and women. The annual ‘Six of the Best’ event will be held on May 25th and takes place at the Paresa Resort’s Diavola Restaurant which offers a spectacular cliff top setting. The dinner will feature six courses and the resorts and restaurants participating in the 2013 event are Paresa Resort, Anantara Resort, The Pullman Arcadia Resort, Taste Restaurant in Surin, Vset Restaurant, and Joes Downstairs restaurant. Tickets are B4,500 net per person including wine and can be purchased via donna@paresaresorts.com. Paresa Resort, 49 Moo 6, Layi-Nakalay Road, Kamala, Phuket, 076-302-000, www. paresaresorts.com PHUKET

New Opening

LAOS Chiang Mai

Set on a dramatic hillside overlooking a pristine lake and with views over Nai Harn Beach, the U Sunsuri Phuket is one of the latest hotel openings on the island. Finished in a contemporary ThaiChinese style, featuring little touches like carved wood screens and temple imagery, facilities at the 132 rooms and suite resort include two swimming pools, plus a kids pool, two restaurants, a wine bar, a spa, a gym and a children’s playground. As part of their opening celebrations they are giving away a complimentary room voucher for the lucky winner of their Facebook quiz. VIETNAM Just visit www.facebook.com/ USunsuriPhuket to enter. U Sunsuri Phuket Hotel,11/5 Moo 1,Rawai, Muang, Naiharn, Phuket, 076-336400, www. Yasothon THAILAND uhotelsresorts.com Chiang Mai

Bangkok

Chonburi

atchaburi

Rayong

Koh Samui

GULF OF SIAM

Samui

Phang Nga

ket

SOUTH CHINA SEA MALAYSIA

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ThewhereGuide MAY 2013 | Bangkok

ART

Siriraj Phimukhsthan Museum Situated on the banks of the Chao Phraya River Siriraj Hospital is one of the oldest and most respected medical institutions in Thailand, perhaps best known as the hospital of choice for members of the current Royal family. It’s also home to a more infamous medical museum, which contains a rather gruesome collection of artifacts, like human embryos and the mummified remains of a serial killer. Fortunately this new museum, which is situated next door to Siriraj’s newly-opened, classier subsidary Siriraj Piyamaharajkarun Hospital, is a more sedate affair as it looks to relate the history of Thai medicine and its first medical school through a series of interactive displays and exhibition spaces. There are also other exhibits covering everything from the history of Thai train travel to the local Bangkok Noi community. As an added bonus it’s all housed in a beautiful 110-year-old building which is worth the visit alone. Entry B300 for adults and B20 for children. Siriraj Piyamaharajkarun Hospital, 2 Phannok Rd., call center 1474. Open MonSat 9am-4pm. www.siphhospital.com

arts + CULTURE......................................17-18 Business traveler.....................................19 dining........................................................20-23

nightlife..................................................24-25 health + wellness...........................26-27 shops + services.................................28-29

navigate........................................................ 30 maps........................................................... 30-34

Note that the reference at the end of the listings (WS24, ZD3, etc.) applies to the coordinates on the individual maps on pages 30-34. Listings without coordinates indicate locations not within the maps.

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Arts+Culture

Silom Galleria

Some of Bangkok’s most prestigious galleries have undergone an overhaul, as art and gem hub Silom Galleria (Silom Soi 19, Silom Rd.) has now refocused its basement on jewelry traders, sending the art galleries up to the fourth and fifth floors. The spaces are bigger and the galleries now all sit next to each other, making this move a definite improvement. The galleries of note include art dealers CVN (facebook. com/CvnArtCenterSince1968) who is only rivalled by Sombat Permpoon in terms of reputation; the young and fresh Number 1 Gallery (02-630-2523, www.number1gallery. com), which features emerging artists; Thavibu (02-266-5454, www.thavibu.com) which represents big Thai artists like Vasan Sithiket and Navin Rawanchaikul; and, finally on the top floor, Tang Gallery (02-630-1114, www.tangcontemporary.com) whose sister branches in China make it a heavyweight player on the regional art scene. XI10 Thavibu

ART GALLERIES 100 TONSON GALLERY — With a prime location and well-designed space, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-6841527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20 BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTRE (BACC) — The city’s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art-related shops in its impressive 11-story structure. 939 Rama I Rd., Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th YM16 GOSSIP GALLERY — Having recently moved to a new venue on Rama 9 this multifaceted space showcases contemporary pieces from both local and international artists. No.71 Seree 6 (Soi 2) Rama 9 Soi 51, www.gossipgallerybkk72.com. THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC)— Home to a large art library, and host to temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-9pm. www.tcdc. or.th ZC4 THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes. 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-281-5360/1. Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. WS27 H GALLERY — Set in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions representing emerging contemporary Asian artists. 201, Sathorn Soi 12, 081-310-4428. BTS Surasak. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm. www. hgallerybkk.com XH11

MUSEUMS NATIONAL GALLERY — Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd., 02-2812224, 02-282-2639-40. Open Wed-Sun 9am4pm. www.national-gallery.go.th WQ27 V64 — More than 60 artists from Chatuchak Weekend Market teamed up to transform a three-acre space into a large art center, which features studios, a gallery, an art academy, shop and restaurant. 143/19 Chaengwattana Soi 1 Yak 6, Bhangkhen. Open daily 9am-6pm. www. v64artstudio.com

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. B100. www.jimthompsonhouse.com YM15 NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous property houses some of the most impressive architecture, art and antiques in the country. Na Phrathat Rd., 02215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. B50. www. nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th WQ27 SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household features eight Thai-style houses that showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period along with prehistoric relics from Baan Chiang. 02-354 Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-246-1775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www. suanpakkad.com

v64

SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — Both a shop and a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai artworks. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040. Open daily 9am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www. sombatpermpoongallery.com YL21

MUSEUM SIAM — This completely restored colonial-style building is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-225-2777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. B300. www.museumsiam. com WQ23

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Arts+Culture Museum of Floral Culture — Founded by one of Thailand’s leading florists, Sakul Intakul, this museum tells the story of how geography, tradition, and beliefs have influenced the handling and presentation of flowers, and in turn, how these have affected the history. Samsen Soi 28, Dusit, 02-669-3633/4. Open Tue-Sun 10am6pm. Tours in English run daily at 11am. B150. Queen Sirikit Museum of textiles —Opened last year this museum tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand. Highlights include the Queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading designers, Grand Palace, Na Phralan Rd., 02-2259420. Open daily 9am-4:30pm. Entry fee B150. Proper attire is required. WP25

Attractions Flow House — If you’re missing the beach, then why not go surfing in the middle of the city? That’s what Flow House offers, thanks to a special machine which gives a similar experience to riding a real wave. It also features bars, restaurants and retail shops specializing in water sports gear. Lessons are available for novices and prices cover board hire, use of showers and towels. Sukhumvit Soi 26. Open Sun-Thu 8am11pm; Fri-Sat 8am-midnight. Prices from B550 per hour. www.flowhousebangkok.com Funarium — This giant indoor soft play area provides painting, crafts, bike riding, roller blading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas, ensuring there’s plenty for the kids to do. 111/1 Sukhumvit 26, 02-665-6555. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 8:30am-8:30pm. B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults for three hours. Socks required. www.funarium.co.th Madame Tussauds — The famous wax work museum makes it to Bangkok and features a star studded line up of incredibly life-like movie stars, politicians and sportsmen drawn from all over the world. 6/F, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama I Rd., 02658-0060. Open daily 10am-9pm. Tickets B800 adults, B600 children over 5. BTS Siam. YM16

Y NEW KidZania — The newly-opened venue

offers children aged 4-14 the chance to pursue a huge variety of different career paths in this kid-centric replica city. In fact, there are over 80 professions to experience from airline pilots and fire fighters to chefs and engineers. 5/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-683-1888, BTS Siam. Open 10am-5pm Mon-Fri and 10am-3pm; 4pm-9pm Sat/Sun and holidays. Tickets from B650 per child and B400 per adult., via www. thaiticketmajor.com. Bangkok.kidzania.com.

siam ocean world — Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. Highlights include the underwater tunnel, penguin enclosure and the glass bottom boat tour. Basement, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.,02-6872000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm. B900 for adults, B700 for children. YM17

cultural attractions Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) — Sat on the river’s edge the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmerstyle tower) is decorated with millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means “morning” and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arun Amarin Rd. Wat Arun Pier. WP22 Wat traimit Wittayaram — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm. Grand palace and Wat Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture. Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace is Wat Phra Kaeo, home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. Also, don’t miss the exquisite mural wall paintings that adorn the cloisters. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. Free English tours available at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm. B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25

Y New art galleries

338 OIDA

SPEEDY GRANDMA Graphic designer/illustrator Unchalee “Lee” Anantawat turned the empty space below her graphic studio into this small gallery space with a focus on photography and illustrations from emerging artists. 672/50-52 Soi Charoen Krung 28, Charoen Krung Rd., 090-117-2991, 089-508-3859. Open Tue-Sun from 11am-7pm. Si Phraya Pier.

338 OIDA René Anant Feddersen’s gallery has a local and Asian focus and seems intent on exhibiting big names, as his opening show demonstrated, with the likes of leading Thai artist Rirkrit on display. 4/F Pongamorn Bldg, 1028/5 Rama 4 Rd., 090198-8749. Open Wed-Sun 1-5pm. XF14

ROOFTOP Gallery With galleries in LA and New York, Hossein Farmani brings his passion for photography to the rooftop of the Design International School on Thonglor. 4/F, 440/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor) 090-910-8373. Open Wed-Fri 12pm-7pm. ZA6

GALLERY D-9 After many years working at galleries around Bangkok, Korakot “Kla” Duangkao has now started up his own venue aiming to promote upand-coming artists focusing on contemporary photography and paintings. 1085/5 Nakhonchaisri Rd., 081-400-9126. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.

Where Special | Arts+Culture

Premjit Thai Crafts The only place in Ratchaprasong District that offers authentic antiques, wood crafts and Buddha images from Thailand, Myanmar and Laos at affordable prices. Retail and wholesale. Visit our showroom at Amarin Plaza, 3rd fl., Thai Craft Market Zone C1,C3,Ploenchit Rd., Ratchaprasong.Tel: 081-424-0587 Email: kurunusart@yahoo.com

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BUSINESs Traveler SERVICED OFFICES

GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENTS

ELITE OFFICE—With two downtown locations by the BTS, these fully equipped offices are available on flexible contracts. Business and work permit assistance is also available. Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm. www.elite-offices.com.

THAILAND BOARD OF INVESTMENT—To encourage investment, the board offers foreign incentives and business support, including advice and key contacts. 555 Viphavadi Rangsit Rd., 02553-8111. www.boi.go.th.

IW SERVICED OFFICE—IW offers customizable offices in prime Sathorn and Sukhumvit locations, complete with secretarial services and meeting room facilities. Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5:30pm. www. iwoffice.com.

DEPARTMENT OF INTERNATIONAL TRADE PROMOTION—The website is in Thai, but its Thai Trade website features some key information in English. Call center: 1169. 44/100 Nonthaburi 1 Rd., 02-793-9394. www.thaitrade.com.

OFFICE FIRST—Their Sathorn office provides serviced offices, virtual offices, meeting rooms and business support, with the additional availability of translation services. Facilities are pay-per-use and IT and telecom support is also offered. 47/F, Empire Tower, 195 South Sathorn Rd., 02-6863400. BTS Chong Nonsi. www.officefirst.net.

THAI CUSTOMS DEPARTMENT—The website gives a general guideline of tax regulations pertaining to traders, businesses and individuals, but details should be verified in case of regulation changes. Call center: 1164. 1 Sunthornkosa Rd., 02-667-7100. www.customs.go.th.

SERVCORP—With three prestigious locations in downtown Bangkok, this international company promises to impress your clients. Facilities and services vary. www.servcorp.net.

TEMP AGENCIES MANPOWER—A world leader in workforce solutions, they have a range of resources and services in the realm of HR including contract details, payroll and legal advice. 02-634-7273. www.manpower.th.com. PRTR—One of Thailand’s top recruitment and outsourcing agencies, their range of staff services includes matching contract staff to employers on short notice. 02-716-0000. www.prtr.com.

CAR RENTAL SIXT—This European company allows 24-hour pick up and return, and between its three Bangkok locations offers a choice of sedan, van, truck, sports car, convertible or SUV. Suvarnabhumi Airport: 086-909-4422. For more branches: www.sixt.com/car-rental/thailand. THAI RENT A CAR—The website includes a simple key to help make choosing the right car easier and they offer personal drivers for daily or contract hire. 02-737-8888. For branches: www. thairentacar.com.

Y SPoTLIGHT

Serviced Apartment Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit-Thonglor Hospitality giant the Marriott Group has just unveiled its latest property in Bangkok, set on the main Sukhumvit Road, close to the busy business district and nightlife area of Thonglor. The Marriott Executive Apartments SukhumvitThonglor features 74 units over eight floors, offering one to three bedrooms, all fully equipped with kitchen, living and work spaces, LCD TVs, DVD player, washer/dryer machine as well as high-speed internet connection and 24-hour service. Six conference rooms make it possible for businessmen to shuffle between meetings while recreation facilities like a fitness center, an outdoor swimming pool and a spa are available to unwind after work. Nightly rates are from B6,400, long-term rates are from B2,550 per night. 2 Sukhumvit 57, Wattana, 02-797-0000. BTS Thong Lo. www.marriott.com

SMART SEARCH—Normally specializing in executive recruitment, the relatively small agency emphasizes their personalized levels of service. 02-714-8088. www.ssrecruitment.com.

OFFICE MATERIALS B2S—You’ll find the office basics at this book, music and stationery store, which has branches in Central and Robinson department stores. Try Central Chidlom (7/F, 1027 Phloenchit Rd.). For more branches: www.b2s.co.th. OFFICE DEPOT—With 29 branches in Bangkok, the stores at Asoke and Silom are the most convenient downtown. The international chain stocks everything from office electronics to furniture, and if you shop online, orders over B500 are delivered free of charge. Silom branch: 3/F and 9/F, United Center, 323 Silom Rd., 02267-6262. Call center: 02-808-5555. For more branches: www.officedepot.co.th.

TECH SUPPORT Pantip Plaza—A heaven for tech and IT lovers, the rather grungy-looking seven floors are dedicated to gadgets and gizmos. You’ll find countless little stalls selling computers, laptops, phones, printers, mainboards and more, with many computer repair services located on the ground floor. 604/3 Petchaburi Rd., 02-2501555. BTS Ratchathewi. www.pantipplaza.com. iSERVE—A standard service center for all Apple devices. 3/F, Amarin Plaza, Phloenchit Rd., 02-652-2324 /-7. BTS Chit Lom. For retail branches: www.istudio.in.th. mAY 2013 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 19

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dining Shintori

Located on the rooftop of the Zen Department store, Shintori is a Japanese-style tavern with branches in Shanghai, Taipei, and Beijing. Inspired by Japanese Zen Buddhism, the décor, designed by star Thai architect Duangrit Bunnag, emphasizes simplicity and the importance of nature. The space mimics an amphitheater with the four sides occupied by a large open kitchen, sushi bar, cocktail bar and a view of the city, with a big outdoor zone due to open this month. Presentation plays a huge role: for example, the steak (one-day shoyu sauce fermented Australian tenderloin, B650 for 200 grams) is cut into five cubes, placed on little pieces of gobo root and topped with black olive sauce and cherry tomatoes. The drinks menu is as long as the food one, with most of the cocktails based on sake.18/F, Zen, CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-9000. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 5:30pm till late. www.shintoribangkok.com YM18

DOWNTOWN Y Pick Le Beaulieu — French. $$$$ Chef Herve

Frerard has returned to Bangkok’s dining scene with his mix of hearty, rustic options like the baked morteau sausage served with a rich tomato lentil sauce and terrine de pot au feu alongside bistro classics like bouillabaisse and sole meunière. It’s simple dishes using high quality ingredients imported direct from France or making the most of the chef’s involvement with the Royal Projects. G/F, Athénée Office Tower, 63 Wireless Rd., 02-1688220-3 www.le-beulieu.com YN21

D’Sens — French. $$$$ The French-imported eatery by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers has all the oomph one might expect. The dimly-lit dining room has a view of Lumphini Park, and the food is bold and exciting. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000. BTS Sala Daeng. Open MonSat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10pm. XF10

Y Pick Eat Me — International. $$$$ The décor is

a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic. The kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 3pm-1am. XG11

Gianni Ristorante — Italian. $$$$ “Gianni’s,” as it’s referred to by most, has earned its following with consistently outstanding food, an elegant atmosphere and smooth service. 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-652-2922. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm. YN19

— Expert’s Pick —

Y Pick Gaggan — Indian. $$$$ After a brief

stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and some wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02-652-1700. BTS Chit Lom. 6pmmidnight. YO19

Y Pick issaya siamese club — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef Ian Kittichai made his name in New York but returns to his home country with this restaurant, set in a delightful wooden mansion and featuring inventive twists on classic Thai recipes. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., Sathorn Rd., 02-6729040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:3010:30pm. www.issaya.com

La Monita Taqueria — Mexican. $$ Handsdown the best place for a quesadilla or fish taco. The décor and service aren’t much, but you won’t care after your third Reposado Margarita. Mahatun Plaza, 888/26 Phloenchit Rd., 02-650-9581. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-10pm. YM21

Y Pick Nahm — Thai. $$$$ Former holder of a

Michelin star, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open daily noon2pm, 7-11pm. XG13

Niu’s — Italian. $$$$ Muted tones, crisp white tablecloths and large windows let the inventive and delicious Italian food take center stage. Niu’s also has an extensive wine list and often hosts topname jazz acts downstairs. Baan Silom, 661 Silom Rd., 02-266-5333. Open daily 5pm-1am. XI10

Can Markawat Owner of The Local “Kaeng Pa (954/2 Nakhon Chasri Rd., next to Dusit post office, 02-241-4216. Open Mon-Sat 10am-9pm) prepares very yummy kaeng kua cha om hoy khom (red curry with pond snail and acacia leaves), which features the rich tastes of homemade chilli paste and the pleasant smell of cha om.”

Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$

Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Area guide Downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods Lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 Upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

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dining Ruen Urai — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house, decorated with a blend of contemporary furniture and rare Thai crafts, it offers a polished menu of solid recipes. Rose Hotel, 118, Surawong Rd., 02266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. XF8

Y Pick Somtam Der — Thai. $ Yards from the

bustle of Silom Rd., this spot brings typical street food into a more upmarket setting. The menu has a focus on somtam, a spicy Thai papaya salad, and other classic Northeastern dishes. 5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am-10pm. XF11

Sra bua — Thai. $$$$ The sister of Michelinstarred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen offers Thai food with a molecular twist in a soaring, glittering palace dotted with fake rice fields. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. BTS Siam. Open daily noon-11pm. YL17 Zense — International. $$$$ The rooftop dining venue of Zen Department Store has reopened with an all-new look and a striking view of downtown. Taste dishes from five kitchens courtesy of five famous Bangkok restaurants. 17/F, Zen, CentralWorld, 02-100-9898. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.zensebangkok.com YM19 Zuma — Japanese. $$$$ Their generous salads mix avocado and fresh sushi. The bar is made from a single, monumental slab of stone and the garden is air-conditioned. It’s all wonderfully glamorous. G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-636-0002. Open Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm. YN18

Lower Sukhumvit 11 Gallery — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34, Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. ZB1

Y SPoTLIGHT

Y Pick Above Eleven — Fusion. $$$ The twist

of this rooftop bar and restaurant, apart from a great city view, is a concept that focuses on Nikkei cuisine: a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. 32/F Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-9300. www.aboveeleven.com ZA1

ROSAbieng — Thai. $-$$ This two-story wooden house-turned-restaurant is a great place for those seeking an introduction to Thai food, thanks to its broad menu of properly executed dishes. 3 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-253-5868. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Sat 11am-11pm. ZB1 Rossini’s — Italian. $$$$ Chef Stefano Merio works closely with Michelin-star chef Alfredo Russo from Turin to deliver contemporary Italian cuisine with perfect wine pairings. Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8364. BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit. Open Mon-Fri noon2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. Sat 6:30-daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm. ZC2

Ying Yang Asian Gastro Bar This modern Asian restaurant strikes a balance between original Thai (and Asian) recipes and modern twists. This dichotomy is also reflected in the restaurant’s décor which balances and contrasts dark, masculine tones with white Chinese-style ceramic art and white communal tables. Asian flavors are the focus, with highlights including the tom saep (duck meat in spicy soup) and Singapore cracker cups with minced pork. They also do a five-course set menu which takes its inspiration from the signs of the Chinese zodiac, as do the signature cocktails. 1/F, CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd. 02-101-0999. Open daily 10am-10pm M18

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dining Y DINING NEWS

Basil’s new menu

Three-Way Tomyam Basil (1/F, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8366. BTS Asok) just launched a new way to experience the classic Thai dish of tomyam. To encourage you to question your senses, they’re serving tomyam soup (B490) in different size wine glasses. You can also try the new four-course organic set menu (B1,500), which uses produce sourced from the Royal Projects in dishes like mok pla trout (baked trout with dried chili and dill).

High Thai Thai fine dining restaurant Celadon (The Sukhothai, South Sathorn Rd., 02-344-8888) serves very, very artfully presented Royal Thai-inspired cuisine. The good news is it’s now somewhat more affordable, with the announcement of three new set lunches (B650-B850) including two mains and one appetizer. Signature dishes include pad Thai gung sod (fried noodles with tamarind sauce and river prawns) and yam som o poo nim (pomelo salad with soft shell crab).

Upper Sukhumvit

Y Pick ISao — Japanese. $$$-$$$$ Despite

L’Appart — French. $$$-$$$$ Imagine a grand Parisian apartment, which means parquet floors, rich burgundy wallpaper and lots of marble. The food is French cuisine with Thai touches complimented by Champagne cocktails. 32/F Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sois 13 and 15), 02-126-9999. Open daily 5pm-midnight. www.sofitel.com ZB2

Y Pick Indus — Indian. $$$ An ambient spot

Y NEW Appia — Italian. $$$ Jarret Wrisley of the

popular Soul Food Mahanakorn teams up with Chef Paolo Vitaletti who is committed to his family food principle, creating wonderful Roman-style pastas. Also, do expect a carefully curated wine selection. 20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-261-2056. Open daily 6-11pm. ZC4

Y Pick Bo.Lan — Thai. $$$$ Chefs Bo and Dylan

offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a charming house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes to reflect the seasons. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-2602962. Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pm-midnight. ZD5

Near Equal — Thai. $$-$$$ This long-term favorite is set in a quaint house down a lovely leafy street. Upstairs the wood floors and antique pieces make for a delightful spot to enjoy well-balanced Thai dishes; then head downstairs to browse the selection of Thai furniture and handicrafts. 22/2 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-258-1565. ZC5

the standard izakaya facade, Isao offers something different—Japanese cuisine with distinctly American twists, thanks to the chef’s apprenticeship at the Green Tea sushi bar in Chicago. 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645/6. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm. ZC4 with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual north Indian favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:3010:30pm. ZE5

The Local — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef and co-owner Can Markawat keeps the focus on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find traditional recipes. They’re all served in a beautiful hundred-year-old house. There are cooking lessons every Wednesday, too. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm ZA3

Y NEW Paste — Thai. $$$ Run by chef couple

Bongkoch Satongun and Jason Bailey, who take their inspiration from Thai royal cuisine, everything here is homemade from locally-sourced ingredients completed with inventive techniques and artful presentation. 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-392-4313. www.pastebangkok.com ZA5

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dining Y Pick Quince — International. $$$ Quince’s

country-classic theme goes for a casual and rustic ambiance that’s part industrial part Spanish villa. The kitchen’s focus is all about sustainability, ethical eating and local produce with down-to-earth home cooking and a ‘market’ menu that changes frequently. Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478. Open daily 6-10pm. www.quincebangkok.com ZC5

Smith — International. $$$$ Set in a former furniture warehouse, it’s decked out in an elegant industrial theme, with walls lined with butcher’s tools. Chef Peter Pitakwong’s menu focuses on two things: locally-sourced ingredients and nose-to-tail cooking. 1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-261-0515. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. ZC5

Smith

THONGLOR/EKKAMAI 4 Garcons — French. $$$ Cooked by a Thai doctor, this classic French fare is served in a warm and elegant atmosphere. 1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-713-9547. Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm. ZA6 Phuket town — Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional Southern-style dishes like kanom chine namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that has plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches. Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm. ZC6 Soul Food Mahanakorn — Thai. $$-$$$ Soul Food dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails, as well as a brief menu of well-executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect and the place is often packed. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-midnight. ZC6

Y Pick Supanniga Eating Room— Thai.

$$ Sat in a three-story shophouse, this new Thai restaurant offers a cozy yet chic décor. The menu is based on what the owner’s grandmom used to cook—Thai food that borrows both from her hometown of Trat, and where the family now lives, Khon Kaen. Expect authentic and often rare dishes. 160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (between Thonglor Soi 6 and 8). Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm ZC6

Water Library — International. $$$$ A restaurant that serves a maximum of ten diners per night, with a 12-course set menu using the very best ingredients that starts at 7.30pm on the dot and is prepared in front of you by an army of chefs. It’s very sophisticated, very sexy and yes, it’s expensive, but also very memorable. There’s also a neighboring wine bar. Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, 02-714-9292/-3. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am. ZB6 Xuan mai — Vietnamese. $$$ Probably the best Vietnamese restaurant in town, this is where former beauty queen-then-FBI agent chef Meyung Robson sources the best ingredients, often direct from Vietnam, and cooks them perfectly from traditional recipes. 351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-185-2619. Open Tue-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 11:30am-midnight; Sun 11:30am-10pm. ZA6

Riverside Chon — Thai. $$$$ Set in a beautiful Thai teak house overlooking the Chao Phraya River, Chon (“spoon” in Thai) is making a name for itself thanks to its authentic Thai food. The Siam Hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd., Dusit, 02-206-6999. Free shuttle boat from Central Pier. www.thesiamhotel.com Le Normandie — French. $$$$ The Mandarin Oriental’s showcase restaurant has set the standard for service and cuisine for years. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm; daily 7-10:30pm. XJ11 Supatra Riverside — Thai. $$$$ Situated on the Thonburi side of the river, the view from the terrace of this Thai house is amazing. There are regular cultural performances and a range of classic Thai dishes. Free boat from Maharaj Pier. 266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arunamarin Rd., 02-411-0305. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm. ZP26

Thai Classics The original breed of Thai fine dining restaurants

Blue Elephant

Blue Elephant Started back in 1980 in Brussels by Chef Nooror Somany Steppe and her team, they have now grown to 11 venues worldwide, with the Thai flagship found in a beautiful old mansion. Dishes like gaeng om (curry with vegetables) burst with balanced flavors and the khao luem pua (baked rice in lotus) is unforgettable—cooked to perfection. 233 South Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. BTS Surasak. www.blueelephant.com. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. XI13

Erawan Tea Room Traditional Thai cuisine, served up in a charming Asian ambiance and friendly service, this eatery has delicious main courses worth trying, with highlights including the khao pad Erawan (stir-fried rice and chili paste) and pla yang bai toey (grilled sea bass with pandanus). 2/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. BTS Open daily 10am-10pm. YN18

Spice Market This 30-year-old place serves up local specialties in a charming decor befitting its name: spices overflow from burlap bags or are piled into small wooden shelves. The dishes here are very pleasant and surprisingly affordable. Try the yam hoy shell kati sod (spicy scallops salad with coconut milk, lemongrass, chili and lime dressing). Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-250-1000. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm; 6-10:30pm. YN18

Where Special | Dining

Ruen Urai

Hidden in Bangkok’s secret oasis, Ruen Urai, “the House of Gold,” combines fine Thai culinary art and the elegant ambiance. Paying homage to a herbal medicine doctor, the original owner of this traditional Thai house, each

delectable dishes are accented by particular herbs and spices. Explore

gastronomic creations inspired by Thailand’s diverse regions, cultures and lifestyles, from royal Thai cuisine to refined home-cooking. Special dinner

set menus are available and recommended for private parties and corporate functions. New menu is introduced every October.

Ruen Urai, 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumpong, Surawongse Road Tel. 02-266-8268-72. Open daily from 12 noon-11 p.m.

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nightlife Badmotel

The people behind popular Thonglor nightspot Mellow (see page 25) have crossed the street for their new offering Badmotel. Conceived under a Thai street concept, it’s set in a formerly abandoned three-story building that’s been repainted all in white, leaving many of the cracks and imperfections as they were. The ground floor is a spacious room filled with a good number of white tables plus a long central bench. There’s also a sizable garden out back with plenty of seating and a more private dining room/party space on the second floor. The highlight has to be the rooftop that offers a low-key, residential atmosphere. They’ve already played host to a lot of special events, and also feature daily sets from leading Bangkok DJs, guaranteeing that it’s usually full of young, pretty Thonglor party people, celebs and Bangkok’s painfully hip. Next to J-Avenue, Thonglor Soi 55, between Soi 15 and 17. 02712-7288. Open daily 5pm-1am. ZA6

Downtown Hyde & Seek — Elevated pub grub, one of Bangkok’s best cocktail menus and a décor that conjures up Victorian drawing room style and NYC sophistication. Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-168-5152-3. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. YM21 Park Society — For a real breath of fresh air and a park view head up to Park Society on the 29th floor of the trendy Sofitel So. Inside is for fine dining while the rooftop is all about interesting cocktails, lounge tunes and the striking view. For more intimacy try the small mezzanine one level up called Hi-So Cabana (B500 entry with one drink). 29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000. Open daily 5pm1am. XF2

Y pick Scarlett — Perched on Pullman

Bangkok Hotel G’s top floor, it features a nice al fresco terrace with fantastic views, an extensive and affordable wine list, industrial bistro décor and interesting tapas options. 37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd, 02-238-1991. BTS Chong Nonsi. XH10

The Speakeasy — This two-story space harks back to the jazz age of the 1920s with a prohibition-era inspired décor, featuring lots of dark wood and Art Deco touches. A balcony on the 24th floor presents 180-degree views of Bangkok, while an al fresco rooftop offers a more leisurely terrace atmosphere. 24-25/F, Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan, 02-630-4000. BTS Phloen Chit. YN19 WOOBar— The signature bar of W Bangkok proves much more than a regular lobby space thanks to its glitzy purple décor inspired by Muay Thai boxing, a chic selection of music ranging from lounge to techno, played by some of Bangkok’s hottest DJs, and creative cocktails using gastronomic techniques like fermentation and infusions. Lobby, W Bangkok, 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4000. Open daily 9am-midnight. BTS Chong Nonsi XH12

Sukhumvit Soi 11 Apoteka — As the name suggests, this bar features a 19th century apothecary-inspired décor. The theme influences the cocktail list (called “antidotes”) where you’ll find drinks with names like Penicilin and Mr. Hyde. 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 090-626-7655. Open Mon-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am; Sun 3pm-midnight. BTS Nana. ZA1

Y pick Bed Supperclub — Bangkok’s leading

Scarlett

club, with a space-age interior, is divided into two sides—the restaurant, which offers creative food and cutting-edge performances; and the club, where beautiful people dance to everything from house to d’n’b. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. Open daily 7pm-2am. www.bedsupperclub.com ZA1

Y Happy Hour Deals

Get refreshed with these hotel drink offers The Glaz Bar (Plaza Athénée, 61 Wireless Rd., 02650-8800. BTS Phloen Chit) offers special prices on cocktails and selected wines starting from B180 and an all-you-can-drink deal at B888 per person daily from 5-9pm. Swizzles Bar and Lounge (5/F, Eastin Grand Hotel, 33/1 South Sathorn Rd., BTS Surasak) has a 50% discount on imported beer, wine, cocktails and mocktails from Mon-Fri, 6-7pm.

Wine Pub (2/F, Pullman Bangkok King Power Hotel, 8/2 Soi Rangnam, Sri Ayutthaya Rd., 02-680-9999) has a selection of over 100 wine labels. They offer drinks plus food deals all week but come Wed/ Sat night to enjoy all-you-can-drink house wine for B990/person (B1,290 for Sat) from 7-10pm. Enjoy a spectacular view of the park while taking advantage of the daily buy-one-get-one-free deal on beer, wine, spirits, whiskey and cocktails (6-8pm) at high-end bar and restaurant MyBar and D’Sens Lounge (Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02200-9000. MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng.) The hip signature bar of the W Hotel Bangkok, Woo Bar (Lobby/F, W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4000. BTS Chong Nonsi) has a daily buyone-get-one free deal on their inventive cocktails and on Wed nights ladies can enjoy free sparkling wine from 7 to 10pm.

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nightlife Beervault — This simple and sleek bar is a mecca for imported brews, boasting 48 bottled beers from 12 different countries and six draught beers. Four Points by Sheraton Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 15, 02-309-3113. Open daily 11-1am. ZB2

Y SPoTLIGHT

Nest — Nest offers a perfect blend of sexy sophistication and chill out chic. Lay back on their super comfy daybeds while you enjoy the open air clubby vibe. Rooftop of LeFenix Hotel, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255-0638/9. Open daily 4pm-2am. www.nestbangkok.com. ZA1 Levels — Decked out with a huge LED chandelier above a circular bar and a bunch of monochrome sofas surrounding a sizeable dance floor, this cavernous recent addition to the Soi 11 strip aims for a rather swanky audiovisual clubbing experience with international DJs regularly dropping in. 6/F Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246. Open daily 9pm-3am. www.levelsclub.com ZA1 Oskars — A comforting menu, a long list of drinks and a great DJ mean this bistro, in the heart of club land, is a popular spot for supper and preclub drinks. 24, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255 3377. Open daily 6-11pm. ZA1 Q Bar— The Soi 11 institution continues to deliver a heady mix of bass lines and international DJs but their remodelled 2nd floor, with a large outdoor patio, means it’s also a great spot to kick back with friends. In the back, Le Derriere serves absinthe and oysters in a 1900s French decor. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-3274 BTS Nana. Open daily 8pm-1am. ZA1

Maggie Choo’s Ashley Sutton’s previous venues Iron Fairies (now temporarly closed), Fat Gut’z, Mr. Jones’ Orphanage have all proved immensely popular, due to their quirky décor, surreal concepts and distinct atmospheres. His latest venture continues that trend, evoking colonial outposts, the decadence of gambling dens, and some steamy exoticism to boot. Step past the goons and the dark wooden doors and down a steep staircase, then on through the aromatic noodle shop. Head through another set of doors, and discover a vast, dark room dotted with button-tufted leather couches and upholstered swings carrying blasé-looking ladies dressed in embroidered cheongsams. At its center, the bar itself is made to look like an old-school casino cashier counter. The place has real soul, thanks to brick vaults with heavy steel doors (which serve as private rooms), oil paintings of sailing ships and busts of Queen Victoria. To increase the allure there are even passageways behind the walls, secret poker rooms and two-way mirrors. Cocktails are artful, sweet, fruity and aromatic and the noodle shop out front is not just for show, either. The short menu offers a choice of egg noodle and rice dishes. 320 Silom Rd., 02-635-6055. BTS Surasak

Mellow — Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, affluent locals, attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and delicious cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am. ZA6

Y NEW Kinki — This rooftop Japanese-themed Le Derriere at Q Bar

ThongLor/Ekkamai The Bookshop — Located next to the lobby of a high-end condominium, this brainchild of nightlife impresario Ashley Sutton, the man behind the ever-popular Cloud’s and Fat Gut’z, delivers a characteristically playful and bizarre interior reminding us of Professor Dumbledore’s library with a creative drinks menu by mixologist Joseph Boroski to match. G/F, Ashton Condominium, Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-187-4949. Open daily 11am-midnight. BTS Thong Lo. ZD5 Clouds — The futuristic vision is certainly striking— from the undulating ceiling, sporting anything from roses to Barbies, to the acrylic seating. Potent cocktails from the laboratory of a bar add to the techno-eco-inspired theme. G/F, Seenspace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2365. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZB6

Y NEW Moose Bar — This revamped space

above vintage furniture store Y50 offers a nofrills yet undeniably hip ambience and acoustic live music on weekdays, and more fun beats on weekends. Ekkamai Soi 21. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.facebook.com/MooseBangkok

bar and restaurant imported from Singapore promises an urban attitude through colorful graffiti-covered walls, Japanese-fusion food and Thai-Japanese cocktails, like the Spicy Hachimitshu (vodka, honey umeshu with wasabi, cucumber and lemon). 6/F, Rainhill, Sukhumvit Soi 47. 02-261-7204. Open daily from 6pmmidnight. www.facebook.com/kinkibkk ZC5

WTF — A collaboration between an art curator, a hip hotelier and a photojournalist, WTF is actually a hybrid bar and exhibition space that’s popular with Bangkok’s creative expats and local hipsters. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open TueSun 6pm-1am. www.wtfbangkok.com ZC5

Riverside Babble + Rum — This riverside restaurant and bar is clad in a modern French-café decor, finished with dark woods and leather couches. An outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area make it the perfect spot for a chill night out. 1-2/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Arthit Rd., 02-633-5000. Open daily 6:30am-1am. www.rivasurya.com WQ27 Viva & Aviv — Fitting for its riverside location, this venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nautically-inspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive, well-made cocktails and pub grub. River City, 23 Yota Rd., 02-639-6305. Open daily 11ammidnight. www.vivaaviv.com

Kinki

Y NEW Print Bar— The walls of the small

and very relaxed bar are decked out in all sorts of faux press clippings and black-and-white sketches while the cocktails are potent and fun. 159/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (opposite to Ei8ht Thonglor), 085-782-1866. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1:30. ZC6

Three Sixty — Sat on the 32nd floor of this riverside hotel you can enjoy the amazing views courtesy of the large windows that run around this striking circular space while appreciating the regular live jazz and good wine selection. 32/F, Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoennakorn Rd., 02442-2000. Open daily 5pm-1am. Free ferry from BTS Saphan Thaksin. www.hilton.co.uk/bangkok

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HEALTH + WELLNESS Summer Therapy

This May, the Peninsula Spa at the luxury Peninsula Hotel offers a way to cool off and get pampered with a 180-minute Spa Splash package at an affordable B3,800 net. The session begins with a 30-minute full body scrub, which sees a therapist exfoliates your skin using your hand-picked choice of ingredients, followed by a 50-minute body massage using your preferred aromatic oil. The spa is beautifully decorated in a modern Thai theme, and is housed in a colonialstyle building which sits right next to the riverside swimming pool. After your body treatment is complete, you can then further unwind and enjoy afternoon tea by the river at the hotel’s lobby (available 2-6pm). The package is available 9am-2pm daily, but advanced booking is required. 333 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-861-2888. Free shuttle boat from Sathorn (Central) Pier.

SPA Deverana Spa — The impressive white lobby has an almost heavenly quality while the 14 individual spa rooms are little sanctuaries to enjoy a range of treatments from milk baths to body scrubs. Dusit Thani, 946 Rama IV Rd., 02-636-3596. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.deveranaspa.com XF10 Divana Virtue Spa — Tucked down a small soi close to the bustle of Silom, Divana Virtue Spa is authentic yet homely. Situated in a century-old house, decked out in an authentic Rama V style, it sits among a small yet lush garden to create a very private and calming atmosphere. 120 North Sathorn Rd., 02-637-8883. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 9am-11pm. XG13 ELEMIS SPA — The Elemis Spa is the first in SE Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the ancient Arabian sauna in the Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am-10pm. www. stregis.com/bangkok YN18 I.SAWAN — With its Tony Chi design and its classy residential cottages and treatment bungalows, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a fitness club, tennis and squash courts and a 25-meter pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com YN18 I Spa — One of Bangkok’s newest spa sanctuaries, the treatments offered here are based on therapies from China, India, Japan and Thailand, using five choices of essential oils based on Asian flowers and herbs. 9/F, The Landmark Bangkok, 138 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-252-9444. BTS Nana. www. ispathailand.com ZC1

Le Spa with L’Occitane — Thailand’s first Le Spa with L’Occitane boasts a contemporary Thai style combined with an elegant French touch. Treatments include the Golden Siamese Massage and Four Teas Ceremony. 9/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. between Soi 13-15, 02-126-9999. BTS Nana. ZB2

le spa with l’occitane

THE ORIENTAL SPA — The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Rd., 02659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. XJ9 LET’S RELAX — With branches around Thailand, and a wide variety of packages and trained masseuses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-662-6935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight. More branches: www.letsrelaxspa.com ZB3 MULBERRY SPA — Set in a 60s-style residential compound, Mulberry Spa offers all the usual selection of treatments amid a classy-yet-cozy ambiance. 132 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1888. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 9am-11pm. Silom branch: 346/8-10 Silom Rd., 02-630-9888. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.mulberryspa.com

THANN SANCTUARY SPA — Their treatments use their locally-made spa products and are offered within a tranquil space bathed in soothing lights. 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.thann. info YM18 PaNPURI ORGANIC SPA — Hidden behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of this luxury spa. Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1199. Open daily 10-8pm. www.panpuri.com YM18 SPA@tonson — This resort style spa includes nine treatment rooms and utilizes ancient Asian healing techniques through a range of treatments. The highlight has to be the special 4-hand massage. 5F, Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-658-7980. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-9pm. www.spatonson.com YM20 SPA BOTANICA — Surrounded by lush gardens, Spa Botanica is an urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best massage options. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd, 02-2344-8900. Open daily 9am-10pm. www. sukhothai.com XG13 — Expert’s Pick —

Karnsiri Mathuros Spa Manager at Anantara Spa “I usually go to Baan Serene (159/5 Soi Ratchadapisek 46/1, Ratchadapisek Rd. (opposite SCB Park Plaza), 02-930-2294. Open daily 9am-11pm. www.baanserene.com) for a Thai massage (2hr/B450). They also give good aromatic oil massage, body scrub and foot massage, too.

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HEALTH + WELLNESS

Where Special | Wellness

I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok

I SPA, operator of 15 luxury Thai spas in China, has opened the first spa in

Thailand, bringing an exotic range of authentic health and beauty treatments from China, India, Indonesia, Japan and Thailand to pamper spa lovers with luxurious spa experiences.

Book now, quoting Where Thailand, and receive a 30% saving on all

treatments at I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok. The offer is valid until March 31, 2013.

I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok, Tel: 02-252-9444

Email: info@ispathailand.com, website: www.ispathailand.com

Rejuvenate your mind, body and soul at Spa@Tonson Spa@Tonson provides a Unique & Authentic Massage that is designed

to nourish your mind and body—through an array of massage techniques applied by trained professionals, that will leave you feeling relaxed and

revitalized. Double your sensation with our Signature 4-Hands Aromatherapy massage. A must try for true spa lovers.

Call for special promotion: 02-658-7980 / 081-954-4366. Location: Level 5 Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Bangkok. www.spatonson.com

Krabi La Playa Resort offer new spa package

Krabi La Playa Resort and The Small Krabi offering guests Celebrate our

“Lanna Spa” with special package - Paradise of Lanna just 2,999 Baht for 100

minutes. The experience of this package begins with floral foot bath and relax

your body and mind with the vapor of natural Thai Herb Steam, then pampering you for nourishing skin with milky bath. Followed by Thai traditional Massage which will relax your deep tension and delights the senses. For more information please contact 66(0) 2 234 9400, info@krabilaplaya.com www.krabilaplaya.com

may 2013 I WHER E thailand 27

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ShopS+Services Oriental Textiles

Jim Thompson, world famous for its silk products, recently collaborated with British textile designer Richard Smith for the ninth time. The result is the summer 2013 home-fabric collection “Grand Vizier,” for No.9 Thompson, the non-silk line of the Jim Thompson brand. Smith was inspired by various central Asian patterns and colors, such as prints found on Uzbekiztani hijab and Middle-eastern silks, resulting in seven print patterns for fine linen sourced from around the world. The collection is perfect for adding oriental touches to your living space through their collection as pillow and sofa covers or curtains. Grand Vizier is available only at Jim Thompson’s main store, 9 Surawong Rd., 02-6328100. MRT Silom. www.jimthompson. com XF8

Downtown Amarin Plaza — The mall’s Greco-Roman façade actually hides some unexpected gems. ID1 on the first floor holds an interesting collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs. 496-502 Phloenchit Rd., 02-650-4704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com YM18

Erawan Bangkok — This mini-mall might look petite, but its three floors offer some high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including Comme des Garçons, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Lanvin and Alexander Wang. 494 Phloenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com YM18

Central Chidlom — The closest thing Bangkok has to Harrods, Central Chidlom first opened in 1973 and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. It’s packed with leading brands, like Bottega Venetta, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the impressive Food Hall on the ground floor and the views from the international food court, up on the seventh. 1027 Phloenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th YM19

CentralWorld — This massive shopping complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000-sq-meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for top brands like Topshop, Gap, Coach and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites like Boudoir, Kloset and Vickteerat. Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www. centralworld.co.th YM18

Gaysorn — Thailand’s leading high-end mall is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Céline) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Phloenchit Rd., 02-656-1149. BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com YM18 Platinum Fashion Mall — Platinum is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashionrelated from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even a single item is very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. www.platinumfashionmall. com YK18 MBK Center — Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and at bargain prices. As a result,the chaotic MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good. Still it’s fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the 6th floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www. mbk-center.co.th YM16 Siam Center — One of the city’s most iconic malls has recently reopened after renovation and offers new, inspirational spaces for art and design, befitting its traditional reputation at the vanguard of the local fashion scene. The highlight is the Fashion Visionary space on the third floor, home to the flagship stores of top Thai designers like Something Boudoir, Theatre, Flynow III and multi-Thai-label store The Selected. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamcenter.co.th YM16

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ShopS+Services Siam Discovery Center — The sister mall of Siam Center celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul last year, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussaud’s wax museum. It also remains the place to come for Thai furniture brands. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www. siamdiscoverycenter.co.th YM16 Siam Paragon — With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like H&M and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a cinema. As well as lots of restaurants, there’s also a food court in the basement. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-6901000. BTS Siam. www.siamparagon.co.th YM17

Sukhumvit Terminal 21 — Boasting an airport terminalcum-international destinations theme. As you travel through the nine floors you can stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the higher floors offer a host of intriguing boutiques by Thai designers. There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21. co.th ZB3

The Emporium — Set in the heart of the city’s upscale residential area (home to Bangkok’s largest Japanese community), The Emporium offers luxury shopping, thanks to its tenant portfolio, which includes brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Prada, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal, Thann and Jim Thompson. There are also lots of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative & Design Center on the top floor. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www.emporiumthailand. com ZC4

Elsewhere Asiatique — This evenings-only shopping center is the first to sit on the banks of the Chao Phraya River and is themed according to the city’s architecture of old. Divided into several sections, ranging from the panoramic waterfront to a 100-year old refurbished sawmill, it includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashions and intriguing souvenirs, plus offers a variety of eateries, beer gardens and wine bars. The gigantic venue is also home to a new ferris wheel and the Joe Louis puppet theater and restaurant. You can catch the free ferry from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin). 2194 Charoenkrung R d., 02-108-4488. Open daily 4pm-midnight.

MARKETS Chatuchak Market — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is one of the world’s largest weekend markets. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections, roughly categorized by the products each section offers. You can literally spend the weekend here amid the warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 10-24 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home-decor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.chatuchak.org Talat Rod Fai — This al fresco night bazaar has become a hot spot for vintage finds, thanks to the mix of retro fashion, décor and toys for sale and because of the laid-back ambience created by the ad hoc bars and cafés. Kamphaeng Phet Rd. MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Fri-Sun, 4pmmidnight.

Y SPoTLIGHT

Siam Square

While the Siam area is best known for its long line of gleaming malls, selling the leading brand names, it also has an edgier side. Just across the street from the luxe fashion boutiques of Siam Paragon lies Siam Square, a small block of streets that’s been a favorite hangout for hordes of Bangkok university students since it opened in the 1960s. Slowly undertaking a gentrification, it’s still home to funky, cutting-edge boutiques, cute cafes and hip music spots. Siam Square Sois 2, 3 and 4, in the shadow of Digital Gateway IT mall, are a center for teen fashion, thanks to a mix of designers like Paa*, Mosstories, Mango Mojito and Poem. Music spots like old favorites DJ Siam and Do Re Me are often packed with teenagers there to buy the latest albums and rare items. The newest zone called Siam Vintage (opposite Chula Book Center) sees a collection of fresh local and inter designs from various young enterpreneurs like Onion and ZM Bangkok. BTS Siam

may 2013 I WHER E tha i l a n d 29

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overview

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Bangkok Overview Key

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4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumpini Park

MRT

5 Khaosan Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

!5 Siam Paragon

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Find out the latest news on Thailand at Facebook.com/WhereThailand | Www.wherethailand.com

30 W H E R E t h a i land I may 2013

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BANGKOK

Navigate

GET MOVING Mount in the heart of the Old Town, stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically-challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.

CANAL BOATS—While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only one canal (klong) still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden

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may 2013 I WHER E THAILAND 31 15

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18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ

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Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 34

1. Kamthieng House B3 2. Rooftop Gallery A6 3. Thailand Creative and Design Centre (TCDC) C4

Terminal 21 ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à·ÍÁÔ¹ÍÅ 21

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Soi Sukhumvit 22 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 22

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Soi Sukhumvit 31 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 31

Soi Sukhumvit 20 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 20

Soi Sukhumvit 23 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 23

Soi Sukhumvit 19 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 19

«ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 11

Soi Sukhumvit 15 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 15

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1. Apex Medi Spa C6 2. Apex Skin Center C4 3. Dermaster A7 4. Diora Spa C4 5. I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok C1 6. Oasis Spa C5 7. Le Spa B2 8. Let’s Relax B3

1. Apoteka A1 2. Badmotel A6 3. BeerVault B2 4. Bed Supperclub A1 5. The Bookshop D5 6. Clouds B6 7. Fat Gutz B6 8. Kinki C5 9. Levels A1 10. Manhattan Bar B1 11. Mellow B6 12. Nest A1 13. Oskar A1 14. Print Bar C6 15. Q Bar/Le Derriere A1 16. WTF C5

Soi 11

Soi Sukhumvit 3 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 3

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Health & Wellness

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Soi Sukhumvit 55 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 55

17. W XYZ A1 18. Wine Republic B6

25. Smith C5 26. Soul Food Mahanakorn C6 27. Supanniga Eating Room C6 28. The Local A3 29. Water Library B6 30. Xuan Mai A6

1. 11 Gallery B1 2. 4 Garcons A6 3. Above Eleven A1 4. L’Appart B2 5. Appia C4 6. Baan Ice C6 7. Bacco C6 8. Bo.Lan D5 9. Gossip A6 10. Harvey B6 11. Hazara D6 12. Indus E5 13. Isao C4 14. Khun Churn D7 15. Khua Kling Paksod C6 16. Mr. Jones’ Orphanage B5 17. Near Equal C5 18. Paste A5 19. Phuket Town C6 20. Quince C5 21. Rosabieng B1 22. Rossini’s C2 23. Saigon Recipe B5 24. Shuffle C5

4/23/13 6:49 PM

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÇ§È

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Soi Sukhumvit 40 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 40

AIRPORT LINk—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (tenminute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 15-20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B90 one-way and B150 roundtrip for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.

BANGKOK

Navigate

Chamchuri Square ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ

11 Lumpini Park ÊÇ¹ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

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Si Lom ÊÕÅÁ

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Thaniya Plaza ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ

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Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡ÃØ§

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frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a Tha Tien Piergreat way to get a different perspective on Tha the·‹Phrachan city,Pier Ò¾ÃÐ¨Ñ¹·Ã ·‹ÒàµÕÂ¹ as well as a good option for getting to many of the Shopping 1. Jim Thompson F8 temples and palaces built along the river. The main 2. OP Place J9 Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here Art & Attractions 1. 338 OIDA F14 and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to 2. H Gallery 2 H11 Nonthaburi. Fares range from 9 B9 to B32 depending 1 3. Kathmandu Photo 1 on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket Wat Phra Kaeo Gallery I11 ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ Wat Po 2 ÇÑ´â¾¸Ô์ (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and 4. Serindia Gallery J9 5. Silom Galleria: comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading CVN/Number 1 Galtourist attractions accessible from the river.

1. DJ Station F9 lery/Thavibu/Tang 2. Maggie Choo’s J10 Gallery I10 Ratchawong PierSociety F12 Q 3. Park ·‹ÒÃÒªÇ§¤ 4. Scarlett H10 5. Woo Bar H12

skytrain/underground—The Wat Rajapardit ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃÐ´ÔÉ°

Bangkok Skytrain (BTS) stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom Line, Wat Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·ÑÈ¹ which runs from across the river in Talat Phlu to National Stadium; and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines.

Health & Wellness

Soi Ruam Rudi «ÍÂ Ã‹ÇÁÄ´Õ

City Viva

TO TALAT PHLU STATION

1. Blue Elephant I13 2. Celadon G13 3. D’Sens F10 8 4. Eat Me G11 P 5. Le Normandie Wat Arun J9 ÇÑ´ÍÃØ³ 6. Nahm, Glow G13 7. Niu’s I10 8. Ruen UraiBridge G8Pier Memorial ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÐ¾Ò¹¾Ø·¸ 9. Somtum Der F11

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Pan Rd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹

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Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

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Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·ÃãµŒ

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silom14

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1. Body Tune G10 2. Devarana Spa F10 3. Divana Virtue Spa I12 4. Health Land G13 R 5. So SPA F12 6. Spa Botanica G13 India Emporium ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ¹à´ÕÂ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ 7. The Oriental Spa ÍÔJ9

The Old Siam Plaza ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ China World ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒä«¹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´

32 W H E R E t h a i land I may 2013 S

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The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station ¹ºÙÃ¾ Ò on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the

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main Central Business District before turning 26 27 North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past 28 Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) Chatuchak and ending at Bang Sue station. Wang Lang PierMarket âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅÈÔÃÔÃÒª ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇÑ§ËÅÑ§

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There are interchange stations at Sukhumvit (MRT) /Asok (BTS) and Silom (MRT)/Sala Daeng (BTS). Fares are B15-B40 for both trains. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get 4 special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, 1 go to www.bts.co.th and www.bangkokmetro.co.th. 3 Phra Athit Pier Note that the BTS and MRT use different ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ ticketing systems. Wat Chana Songkram ÇÑ´ª¹ÐÊ§¤ÃÒÁ

TAXIS—In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for thePolice first two kilometers. Despite their Station Ê¶Ò¹ÕµÓÃÇ¨ many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. Democracy Monument Í¹ØÊÒÇÃÕÂ »ÃÐªÒ¸Ô»äµÂ

Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò

Wat Saket ÇÑ´ÊÃÐà¡µØ

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Chamchuri Square ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ

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banking hours—Banking hours are generally from 8:30am to43:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·ÃãµŒ

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tralia 02-2514-173, Austria 02-287-3970, Belgium 02-679-5465, Brazil 02-679-8567, Bulgaria 02-3916180, Cambodia 02-636-0540, China 02-245-7043, ATMS—ATMs are very common in Bangkok and Czech Republic 02-255-3027, Denmark 02-213Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์ can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located 2021, Egypt 02-262-0236, Finland 02-256-9306, outside of 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able France 02-266-8250, Ghana 02-641-5214, Germany to use overseas cards to withdraw money. Chong Nonsi 02-287-9000, Greece 02-679-1462, ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ Iceland 025 4 237-8010, India 02-258-0300, Indonesia 02-2522 City Viva 3135, Iran 02-259-0611, Ireland 02-223-0876, Israel Dining 1. Supatra Riverside P26 02-204-9200, Italy 02-252-6151, Korea (South) St. Louis Hospital 2. The Deck Q23 âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅà«¹µ ËÅØÂÊ 02-247-7537, Laos 02-539-6667, Malaysia 02-679Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ 2190, Mexico 02-285-0815, Morocco 02-653-2444, Health & Wellness 3 3 1. Wat Po Q24 Myanmar 02-233-2237,Pan Nepal 02-391-7240, NethRd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹ 7 erlands 02-254-7701, Norway 02-302-6415, New Art & Attractions Surasak ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ 1. Grand Palace/Museum of Textiles Q25 Zealand 02-254-2530, Nigeria 02-391-5197, Pakistan Soi Silom 1 9 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 2. Museum Siam1 Q23 02-253-0288, Peru 02-260-6243, Philippines 5 3. National Gallery Q27 02-259-0139, Portugal 02-234-7435, Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØRussia Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢ ÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ 024. National Museum Q27 2 268-1169, Saudi Arabia 02-639-2999, Switzerland 5. Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall S26 6. Royal Barge Museum P27 02-253-0156, Singapore 02-286-2111, Spain 02-2527. The Queen’s Gallery S27 6112, Sri-Lanka 02-331-6384, Sweden 02-302-0360, Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔ Þ¡ÃØ§ Saphan Taksin 8. Wat Arun (Temple 5 ÊÐ¾Ò¹µÒ¡ÊÔ ¹ of Dawn) P22 Taiwan 02-670-0220, Tunisia 02-692-5071, Turkey 9. Wat Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald 7 02-274-7262, United Arab Emirates 02-639-9820, Buddha) Q25 4 OP Place Oriental Pier United Kingdom 02-305-8333, United States of Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕÂ¹àµÅ Nightlife ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã America 02-205-4000, Syria 02-254-7961, Vietnam 1. Babble & Rum Q27 TO TALAT PHLU STATION 02-251-5838.

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÇ§È

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo 8 opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a G price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Soi Convent «ÍÂ¤Í¹áÇ¹µ major EMBASSIES & CONSULATES—Argentina 02-259-0401, Aus4 ¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

TUK-TUKs—Tuk-tuks are a noisy but of Silomfun Soi way 4

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India Emporium ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ÍÔ¹à´ÕÂ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ

The Old Siam Plaza ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ China World ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒä«¹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´

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Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

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Soi Sukhumvit 26 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

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18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ

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5. Romrawin M19 6. S Medical Spa L20 1. Le Beaulieu N21 7. Spa@Tonson M20 2. Elements M20 3. Erawan Tea Room N18 8. Siam Swan M16 9. Thann Sanctuary 4. Gaggan O19 5. Gianni Ristorante N19 Spa M18 6. Grossi Trattoria M19 7. Jim Thompson Restau- Shopping 1. Amarin Plaza M18 rant & Bar L15 2. Central Chidlom M19 8. Kisara N21 3. CentralWorld M18 9. Magnum Cafe M16 4. Erawan Bangkok M18 10. Mandopop N20 5. Gaysorn M18 11. Medici N19 6. MBK Center M16 12. La Monita Taqueria 7. Pantip Plaza K17 M21 8. Platinum Mall K18 13. Reflexions N21 9. Siam Center/Siam 14. Shintori M18 Discovery Center M16 15. Shintaro N18 10. Siam Paragon M17 16. Sra Bua L17 17. Ying Yang M18 Art & Attractions 18. Zense M18 1. 100 Tonson Gallery 19. Zuma N18 N20

Health & Wellness 1. Aster Spring M18 2. Elemis Spa N18 3. i.Sawan N18 4. Panpuri Spa M18

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

Ratchadamri

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1. Hyde & Seek M21 2. The Speakeasy N19 3. The St Regis Bar N18

1 13

5 11

Sarasin Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒÃÊÔ¹

Nightlife

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ÊÂÒÁ Digital Gateway ´Ô¨ÔµÍÅà¡็µàÇÂ

Soi Tonson «ÍÂ µŒ¹Ê¹

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Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃÒªÇ§¤

Central Chidlom ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à«็¹·ÃÑÅªÔ´ÅÁ

2. Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) M16 3. Jim Thompson Art Center & House L1 5 4. Madame Tussauds M16 5. Siam Ocean World M17 6. Sombat Permpoon Gallery L21

vat refunds—Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers to get your form stamped. Then, after check-in and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts not exceeding B30,000, will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refund amounts exceeding B30,000, will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Hospitals—Bumrungrad International, (Sukhumvit Soi 1-3, 02-667-1000, emergency 02-667-2999), Bangkok Hospital (Soi Soonvijai, Petchaburi Rd., 02-310-3000), BNH Hospital (Convent Rd., 02-686-2700), Samitivej Sukhumvit (Sukhumvit 49, 02-711-8181), Siriraj SiPH (Phrannok Rd., 1474).

Essential Numbers Emergency Services (Fire Brigade, Police) 191 Airport Rail Link 02-308-5600. http://airportraillink.railway.co.th Bangkok Taxi Call Center 1681 / 1661 Bangkok Mass Transit System (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th BTS Tourist Information Center : 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th Bangkok Metro (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6ammidnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th Chao Phraya Express Boat Call Center 02-6236001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com Suvanbhumi International Airport 1722/02-1321888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) – 1672. www.tourismthailand.org Tourist Police 24-hour call center 1155

34 W H E R E t h a i land I may 2013

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Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃØ³

Memorial Brid ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÐ¾

Soi Ruam Rudi «ÍÂ Ã‹ÇÁÄ´Õ

Chit Lom Rd. ¶¹¹ªÔ´ÅÁ

Ratchadamri Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ

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21 Things we LOve about Thailand

!2 1 Taking some shade under the 200-year-old tamarind tree amid the Lanna-inspired architecture of Tamarind Village (www. tamarindvillage.com), situated right next to the famous Sunday Walking Market in Chiang Mai. 2 Snorkeling in the crystal clear waters off the beaches of the Andaman island of Koh Tachai.

4 Learning how to cook some Thai food and supporting a worthwhile local charity at the Helping Hands Cooking School (www. cookingwithpoo.com).

5 Slurping up a bowl of authentic Hokkien Noodles at Phuket’s Mee Ton Poh (214/7 Phuket Rd., 076-216-293, open daily 10am-6pm).

6 Laying back on the crisp white sheets to enjoy the inventive food, and cutting-edge performances at Bed Supperclub (26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. BTS Nana).

!2 Gazing at the eerie beauty of Wat

!7 Getting a different perspective

Rong Khun (aka The White Temple), the work of Thai national artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, in Chiang Rai.

on the history of Thailand through interactive exhibitions at the Museum Siam (B300. Samnachai Rd. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www. museumsiam.com).

!3 Admiring the work of established 7 Watching the locals going through their early morning workouts in Lumphini Park, in the heart of downtown Bangkok.

8 Exploring the idyllic uninhabited 3 Sipping a cup of tea while enjoying tropical islands in the 102-sq-km the rich history and five-star service at Mandarin Oriental’s Author’s Lounge (Oriental Pier).

Angthong Marine National Park near Koh Samui.

9 Experiencing the fireflies and traditional ambiance at Amphawa floating market.

and emerging contemporary Thai and international artists at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BTS National Stadium, www.bacc.or.th).

!4 Playing 18 holes on the beautiful championship-level golf course at the Mission Hills Golf Club (www. missionhillsphuket.com) in Phuket.

!5 Catching a free traditional Thai puppet show at Bangkok’s Baan Silapin artist community (02-8685279, thaipuppeteer@gmail.com).

!0 Browsing for the finest Thai silks at the various silk stores in Bangkok. Try Almeta Silk (Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-204-1413, www.almeta.com).

!1 Staying overnight at one of the

!6 Rummaging for everything from edgy fashions to teakwood furniture at the world’s largest weekend market, Chatuchak (JJ) Market (MRT Kamphaeng Phet).

houseboat rafts on Cheow Larn Lake in the stunning Kao Sok National Park.

!8 Discovering Michelin-star-worthy, traditional Thai dishes of Chef David Thompson at Nahm (G/F, Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333).

!9 Getting a glimpse of what Bangkok used to be like with a klong tour around the old canals (klongs) of Nonthaburi from Saphan Taksin Pier.

@0 Checking out the cool stores, restaurants and bars, and the new Sky Ferris wheel, at the retro-inspired, open-air riverside mall Asiatique the Riverfront (www.thaiasiatique.com).

@1 Going food stall-hopping, trying everything from authentic Chinese snacks to fresh seafood on Bangkok’s Yaowarat Road (China Town).

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Hong Kong, Singapore

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