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contents where
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l THAILAND l JUNE 2013
The Guide Bangkok
19 arts+Antiques A round-up of the latest art exhibitions
8
20 attractions Take a ride out to the Ancient City
21 dining The latest dining news and a new playful restaurant
Siam Style
The best Thai designers and where to buy them
Rouge Rouge's Duang Poshyanonda
escape
A French pool party, a German beer bar plus a sky-high venue
26 SHOPS+Services
12 l Island Life
12
24 nightlife
Make your own perfume or treat yourself to some designer lingerie
Discover the beaches and towering peaks of Koh Chang
28 Health+Wellness Combination therapies are the order of the day at S Sense Spa
news
29 Maps Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin
06 Where Now
The most exciting new openings in Bangkok
also inside
14 Where News
6 Managing Editor/Publisher Nick Measures Editor Top Koaysomboon General Manager James Fuss Managing Editor Grégoire Glachant Sub-editor Carl Dixon Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapon
facebook.com/wherethailand
17 Hot Stuff
around the Kingdom
30 navigate 35 21 things we love
Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Marketing Executive Pavida Chitprasertsuk Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant Interns Korkamol Porapuckham, Thamonwan Poungdee On the cover Milin Yuwacharaskul in Milin by Monruedee Jansuttipan
Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th @where_thailand
4 Hot dates
The latest deals, promotions and events
www.wherethailand.com
MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger
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where HOT DATEs Through June 22
Frederic David
La Fête
Transport Exceptionnels, La Fete
The long-running annual FrenchThai culture festival returns this month to offer a Gallic-infused shot of art, music, theater and more to the Bangkok scene. The festival runs through June 22 and will be staged in various locations both in Bangkok and several provinces. Highlights of this year’s festival include: Vertical/ Horizontal, a photographic exhibition which captures the daily lives of the middle-class populations living in Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok at the Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre; Transports Exceptionnels, a unique dance show featuring an excavator (Jun 11-12); and the annual music night Fête de la Musique at CentralWorld Square on Jun 15, which will feature popular French electro act Wax Tailor and his smooth blend of trip hop. For more information on venues and a full schedule, visit www. Lafete-Bangkok.com. June 8-9
Tourism Authority of Thailand
THE SILENT PRINCE OPERA
JUN 5–9
June 6-24
THAILAND TOURISM FESTIVAL: TTF2013
SIDDHARTHA
Paying a visit to the Thailand Tourism Festival is a great chance to discover more about the country, including Amazing Thailand destinations, products and activities taking place throughout the kingdom. Visitors can experience Thai musical and cultural performances, learn about local ways of life as well as shop for local products ranging from arts to handicrafts and food drawn from all four parts of Thailand. At Impact Muang Thong Thani, Chaengwattana Road, Nonthaburi. Shuttle service from BTS Mo Chit. Open 10am-9pm. More information at specialproject@impact.co.th or call TAT Call Center: 1672, 02-250-5500.
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The latest production from Bangkok’s rebellious Democrazy studio gives a new spin on Siddhartha, the famous novel written in 1922 by Nobel Prize winner Hermann Hesse. Siddhartha, which means “the searcher” in Pali and Sanskrit, is the story of a young Indian prince struggling to find his own personal enlightenment during the time of the Buddha. We follow his philosophical quest in search of the inner-self through encounters with colorful characters, vibrant scenarios and a series of life-changing events. Every Thursday-Monday, 8pm. Advanced tickets are from B380-420, and B500 at doors. At Democrazy Studio, Soi Saphankhoo, Rama IV Rd., 089-126-7112, facebook. com/democrazystudio.
Internationally-acclaimed Thai composer and conductor S.P Somtow is teaming up with The Bangkok Opera Foundation to celebrate the 2,600 anniversary of the Lord Buddha’s enlightenment. The music is composed by Somtow and conducted by one of Thailand’s rising young conductors, Trisdee Na Patalung. Tickets B5002,500. At Main Hall, Thailand Cultural Center, 02-262-3456. MRT Thailand Cultural Center June 15-August 15
AMAZING THAILAND GRAND SALE This annual two-month long grand sale is Thailand’s biggest and best, and offers savings of up to 80% at leading stores alongside big discounts on spas, golf courses, hotels, car rentals, airlines and much more. Get more information and details of specific deals at thailandgrandsale. tourismthailand.org.
Unless stated otherwise, tickets for all events can be purchased through ThaiTicketMajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com), which also has outlets at Zen, Central department stores and Major Cineplex theaters. Visit their website for full details of locations.
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where Now
Nut Onaree
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Y Bangkok
new arrivals The latest openings in Bangkok
SALA RATTANAKOSIN
Hotel
Dining
A View to Kill
SALA Hospitality Group, owner of design hotels and resorts around Thailand such as SALA Phuket and SALA Samui, has unveiled its newest property, Sala Rattanakosin, which calls itself a restaurant with guestrooms, and is blessed with a great location on the banks of the Chao Phraya River right opposite the iconicTemple of Dawn. Half of the renovated four-story building is dedicated to fine dining and drinking, courtesy of Chef Tony Wrigley, who whips up some pretty impressive Thai food. The design retains plenty of traces of the original building accompanied by a minimal black-and-white theme, which extends to all 15 rooms, all of which are blessed with stunning views. There’s also a rooftop bar where you can sip house-blended cocktails with a view. For this introductory period, rooms are 15% off from published rates (B3,100-9,000). 39 Soi Ta Tien, Maharat Rd., 02-622-1388. Tha Tien Pier. www. salarattanakosin.com Hemingway’s
Director’s Den
Film director by day, Jay Boccia just opened the gorgeous Bellino Wine Room & Boutique, which sports a décor inspired by the Italian island of Capri. Boccia directly imports around 50 labels of wines from many small vineyards at reasonable prices. This tiny spot also serves up a few tapas and Italian dishes, which Boccia likes to cooks at home, such as the delicious caprese salad (fresh mozzarella with olives and tomato). M Place Mall, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-712-5446. Open Mon-Sat 12pm till late.
The Reading Room
Set in an old teak house originally built in the 1920s, new bar and restaurant Hemingway’s is already causing quite a stir. With a menu that’s said to feature the food and drink much-loved by the intrepid author Ernest Hemingway, its leafy garden is the perfect place to order some pizza, tapas or steak. More adventurous dishes include pan-seared wild caught Hokkaido scallops with cauliflower puree celeriac and angel hair with roasted asparagus, chive veloute, and king oyster mushroom. 1 Sukhumvit Soi 14, 02-653-3900. BTS Asoke
Nightlife
On Top of the World
Ideally located on the corner of Sukhumvit 57, right next to nightlife hub Soi Thonglor, the recently opened Marriott Hotel just introduced its impressive multi-level rooftop bar Octave. The decor of the three separate levels is an understated mix of soft woods, steel accents and a blue theme running throughout. Choose between sculptured sofa seats on the long balcony on the 45th floor or head up three floors to the rooftop which offers a clear 360-degree view of Bangkok and boasts a circular open bar at the middle. Drinks-wise they have an in-house mixologist to offer twists on the classic cocktails while the food is focused on Asian-themed bar snacks. Having visited for the opening we can confirm that this a proper rooftop bar with some of the best urban views we’ve experienced in Bangkok. 45/F, Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Thonglor.
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now where Y Shopping
Luxe Arrivals
Health and Wellness
Red Glow
High-end shopping mall Siam Paragon just Luxury brands seem to be making a welcomed a new and equally high-end beeline to Bangkok this year and the beauty clinic. The Scarlett Clinic is run latest arrival is Kenzo, known for its by four local Thai celebrities—Pla use of bold-colored fabrics Atchara Burarak, Gift Warisa and vibrant patterns. It just Passakornntee, Noi Teerada opened its flagship store Ambhanwong and Marsha (1/F, Zen Department Store, Wattanapanich—under the Ratchadamri Rd., 02-100concept of a “Holistic and 9999) and has plans for Laser Center.” The luxurious an additional branch at the scarlet-hued setting is home to yet-to-be-completed Central Kenzo beauty therapies including face lifts Embassy, as well as a pop-up store using high radio frequency techniques, in Central Chidlom. That’s not all, luxury facial laser treatments to remedy brand Céline, also just opened its door blemishes, birthmarks and tattoo removal, to shoppers down in Sukhumvit (1/F, laser hair removal and skin pigment Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-269treatments. 2/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 1000. BTS Phrom Pong), stocking pumps, Rd., 02-610-9371. BTS Siam. dresses and bags.
Octave
The scarlett clinic
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where Feature The Front Row
Homegrown designers gone global Disaya London’s Central Saint Martins graduate Disaya Sorakraikittikul had already found success with lingerie line Boudoir before she decided to launch womenswear brand Disaya in 2007. These days her youthful, playful, yet sophisticated dresses, skirts and blouses are worn by stars like Lily Allen and Agyness Deyn. She also recently launched Something Boudoir, aimed at a younger female audience. Try CentralWorld, 2/F, 02-646-1828. BTS Siam/Chit Lom. For more branches: www.disaya.com
Sretsis Sretsis is sisters spelt backwards, and the company is indeed the brainchild of three fashion-loving sisters: Kly, Pim and Matina Sukahuta. Sretsis is famous for its girly dresses that feature a mix of silky fabrics and joyful prints, a look that’s perfectly complemented by dramatic accessories offered by companion brand Matina Amanita (designed by Matina). Retailed worldwide, their fans include Paris Hilton, Katy Perry and Kiko Mizuhara.
Shop Thai
From fancy couture gowns to cutting-edge handbags, we bring you our favorite loical designers you can’t afford to miss when on your Bangkok shopping spree. Disaya
Try Gaysorn, 2/F, Phloenchit Rd., 02-656-1125. BTS Chit Lom. www.sretsis.com
Kloset Ten years ago, Mollika Ruengkritya’s Kloset was a small shop in the student shopping district of Siam Square. Today, Kloset’s colorful print dresses, skirts and scarves are so popular that young female fans queue outside their stores for every new collection. The recently launched sister brand Kloset Etcetera offers bags, stationery and other accessories. Try Siam Center, 3/F, 02-658-1729. BTS Siam. For more branches: www.klosetdesign.com
Greyhound & Playhound One of the most established fashion brands in Thailand, it is best known for its unconventional patterns and cuts—usually mixed with a simple palette of black, white, grey and beige. Sister brand Playhound features lots of humorous touches and quirky prints in bright colors.
GREYhound& Playhound
Vickteerut
Try Siam Center, 3/F, Rama 1 Rd., 02-251-4917 (Greyhound), 02-252-3861 (Playhound). BTS Siam. For more branches: www.greyhound.co.th
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The New Players
The next generation of designers Milin
highlight the female figure. His latest collection is inspired by vintage sci-fi movies, combining a deconstruction of space-age shapes and his signature black and white tones.
After studying at Central Saint Martins in London and training at Jill Stuart in New York, Milin Yuwacharaskul returned to Thailand to Try CentralWorld, 2/F, 082-782-8270. BTS Chit open Milin in 2009 and quickly established Lom/Siam. herself as a designer with her own sense of style. Her collections look to accentuate the Curated by Ek Thongprasert natural sexiness of women and are full of feminine pieces that use delicate and soft fabrics Curated is the brainchild of Belgium-based Thai with plenty of bold, often fashion designer Ek Thongprasert, “In Asia, Thai designers are who graduated from the Royal revealing cuts to create among the leaders. They recognizable silhouettes. Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp and have variety and strong made his name in Europe thanks to Try Siam Center, 3/F, Rama 1 identities.” his collections of necklaces made Milin Yuwacharaskul Rd., 02-658-1134. BTS Siam. Creative Director, Milin from colorful polymers. Curated was launched back in 2009 and features Vickteerut a very conceptual approach, where sophisticated Another Central Saint Martins and Academia details, cuts and prints are hidden in simpleItaliana alumni, Teerut Wongwattanasin’s looking men’s and women’s outfits. womenswear line is a favorite among those who appreciate his simple designs, neat cuts and beautiful patterns, which all look to
Try Siam Center, 3/F, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1705. BTS Siam.
Curated
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Jim Thompson
Local handicrafts From locally grown coffee to silk elephants, there are a host of Thai brands offering up contemporary gift ideas using local materials.
Theatre
Doi Tung The late Princess Mother started the Doi Tung Development Project back in 1988, as a way of encouraging villagers to produce and sell local products and help them improve the general living standards in Mae Hong Son. Doi Tung has now grown to become a major brand selling everything from coffee (they also have their own coffee shops) to hand-woven throws. Their stores sell clothing, accessories and home décor items. 4/F, Siam Discovery Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-0427. BTS Siam.
Jim Thompson The world’s best known Thai silk company, Jim Thompson, was started out by the mysterious and mercurial American in the 1940s and is now internationally recognized for its range of oriental silks. They are available in a huge choice of products like dresses, bags, scarves, soft toys and much more. There are plenty of branches around Bangkok but the best place to go is his former home, which also has a museum, gallery, charming garden and a cute restaurant. Soi Kasemsan 2, 02-6328100. BTS National Stadium. For more branches: www.jimthompson.com
Naraya Looking for a cutesy, kawaii-inspired colorful fabric handbag? Naraya is the place to head. Adored by Japanese and Korean visitors, Naraya retails an extensive range of accessories, from purses to picture frames and pillow cases to overnight bags all made from candy-colored cotton and silky fabrics— all at very affordable prices. Corner of Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-204-1145. BTS Phrom Phong. For more branches: www.naraya.com
theatre
KAI
The Legends
Established designers who were pioneers for modern Thai fashion Kai
Theatre
Somchai “Kai” Kaewthong is arguably Siricha Daharanont opened the first Theatre Thailand’s most respected couturier even if boutique in 1985. The name hints at his he prefers to call himself passion for introducing Thailand “We [Thailand] aim to a humble clothesmaker. to dramatic outfits which feature export more than just Often called the Vera crafts. We are trying to sell extravagant shapes, patterns and Wang of Thailand, he’s designs. Thai designers details. Most of his collections nowadays do not only best known for creating are inspired by his trips around design for their local beautiful wedding the world and the latest, Mariage customers but are designing dresses and exquisite a l’Indiene, features flamboyant for universal women in cocktail gowns made pieces inspired by Indian culture. international markets.” from delicate silks and Kullawit Laosuksri Siam Center, 3/F, Rama 1 Rd., Editor-in-Chief, Vogue Thailand laces and his designs 02-251-3599. BTS Siam. www. remain highly sought theatrebangkok.com after. Peninsula Plaza, 2/F, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-652-1061/2. BTS Ratchadamri. www.kaiboutique.com
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Bold Baggage
Complete your look with these Thai-designer bags Rouge Rouge A graduate of the Instituto Marangoni in Milan and the current editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar Thailand, Wannaporn “Duang” Poshyanonda started out with a children’s wear line but then created some bags for a design showcase back in 2011. The success of those bags led her to take it more seriously and now she’s making a name for herself at home and abroad. Rouge Rouge’s designs are often fun and quirky featuring a mix of geometric shapes and surrealist influences. Try G/F, Zen, CentralWorld, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-100-9999. BTS Siam/ Chit Lom. www.rougerougebag.com
Container Founded in 2010 by three best friends, Container makes bags for everyday use that are both simple and timeless. Inspired by Japanese and Scandinavian architecture and interior design, Container looks to set itself apart from other brands through its focus on the finer details, like the stitching and lining. They also use vegetabletanned leather to ensure a more flexible feel. Try The Selected, 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam.
Tu’i Tipanun “Tui” Krairiksh Srifuengfoong started Tu’i in 2008, soon after graduating from the Instituto Marangoni in Milan. Tu’i bags take a lot of inspiration from the art deco style and are made from exotic animal skins finished with fancy materials. The latest collection, Riviera Vibes, takes its inspiration from the Mediterranean playground of the rich and famous. Try CentralWorld, 1/F, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-6586551. BTS Siam/Chit Lom. www.tuibag.com
Tu’i
heatre
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where Around Thailand Klong Prao Beach
t might be Thailand’s second biggest island but its out-of-the-way location down by the Cambodian border means Koh Chang still offers the chance to get off the beaten track a little. Accessible only by ferry from nearby Trat, its soaring jungle-clad peaks and sweeping beaches make it an ideal destination for an island escape.
Those who want a slightly quieter beach experience may be better off heading further south to Klong Prao, which while home to a few highend resorts, also boasts some long stretches of completely undeveloped coast. The beach is testament to this; it’s wonderfully quiet and, home to a multitude of rock pools teeming with marine life. While long walks are the obvious pleasure here, you can also get more adventurous and hire a kayak (try the Centara, see Essentials) and strike out for the small collection of islands that dot the bay. Dining-wise there are a limited range of eateries, with most based in the bigger resorts. However, we strongly recommend making the trek down to the quiet Tiger Huts restaurant (38/24 Moo 4 Klong Prao, Klong Prao Beach, 089-833-1503, 084109-9660). The sunset view from the terrace is gorgeous and we think their fish cooked with garlic and pepper is the best we’ve tasted in Thailand.
Beach Combing
Lonely Beach
Elephant Island Beach combing and jungle adventures on Koh Chang.
view from Centara Resort of Klong Prao Beach
I
White Sands Beach
Chiang Mai
KOH Chang
THAILAND Bangkok
Koh Chang
Koh Chang is Samui Thailand’s second largest Phang Nga island. Located on the Gulf Phuket of Thailand in Trat province, it is 315 kilometers east of Bangkok.
By far the busiest beach on the island, and the closest to the ferry, White Sands is home to the highest concentration of resorts and guesthouses. As a result, it can get very crowded, though the sand is not exactly the whitest we’ve seen, considering the name. Still, the long curving beach and shallow waters mean it remains popular, especially with foreign tourists, and it is a particularly good destination for families. It’s also a nice spot to head to after dark, when the beach gets filled by the tables and chairs of the various restaurants. While they all offer similar menus of inter favorites, Thai classics and BBQ seafood, we particularly like the dishes at Mac Resort & Hotel (www.mac-resorthotel.com), recognizable by the cute heart-shaped lamps out front, and the
A mecca for the multitude of slightly more formal Kacha Resort backpackers doing the Asian tour, (www.kacharesortandspa.com). After Lonely Beach is the party central of watching the sun go down and indulgthe island. The relatively small beach ing in some fresh seafood, you can is not that impressive with a large head along to 15 Palms (White Sand rocky stretch at one end. Still there Beach, 039-551-095, www.15palms. are a couple of good places to eat com). This popular nightspot offers and a growing number of high-end a choice between puffing boutique-style resorts (see on a shisha on the suEssentials) to be found on persized bean bags the quieter stretches of out on the sand sand. If you drop by to or sampling their ogle the backpackers great selection of then the most popular imported beers spot for people to gather and ciders on the to eat, drink and listen to plush leather sofas lonely beach the obligatory reggae tunes inside. Or you can just is Nature Rocks, the beachfront numb the senses with the restaurant of Nature Beach Resort delicious offerings at the attached ice (98 Moo 4, Lonely Beach / Bai Lan cream bar. Bay), which offers a broad mix of Thai and inter dishes.
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bang bao fishing village
Nature Rocks
Away from the Beach
Head to the Other Side
Bang Bao Fishing Village If you want to get away from the sand for a while and sample some seafood, and are happy to tackle the roads, head to the southern tip of the island for Koh Chang’s main fishing port. (It’s also where you’ll catch the various snorkel and scuba dive tours and the speedboats to nearby islands like Koh Wai, Koh Mak and Koh Kood.) The narrow, slightly creaky pier is home to restaurants and cafes (Chow Lay Seafood 40/1 Moo 1, Bangbao, 039-558118 is perhaps our pick for seafood), some cute guesthouses and, amid all the tacky souvenir stalls, some charming little stores like Peace Moon (www.peace-moon.com) where you can watch them hand-making their selection of jewellery and leather crafts. Wander past the dive boats to the end of the pier and, if you’re feeling brave, head up the metal steps to the top of the lighthouse for some impressive views.
Due to its geography, pretty much all of the beaches on Koh Chang are situated on the west coast of the island, which is much more developed. If you want to get away from the crowds, a trip to the east coast promises solitude and some spectacular views over to the Thai and Cambodian mainland. There’s also the chance to visit a couple of lesser-known waterfalls like Than Mayom (near the Government Office) and Klong Nung, the mangrove forest walkway at Salak Khok, and the charming temple and quaint fishing village at Salak Phet. If you get hungry during your explorations, visit the seafood places down at Salak Phet. Still, we’d suggest stopping off at a really eclectic restaurant about half-way down the island called Paradise Behind the Sea (22/22 Ang Kong Kang, 081-900-2388. Open daily 8:30am-9:30pm). Perched on the edge of a cliff, it offers great views, decent Thai and Vietnamese food and a really quirky space filled
Tree Top Adventure
with authentic Thai antiques and mismatched furniture. The toilets are particularly worthy of a visit and the coffee is way above average.
Swing in the trees Koh Chang is covered in thick tropical rainforest and what better way to truly experience the greenery than by clambering through the tree tops? Tree Top Adventure Park (115 Moo 1, Koh Chang Tai, 084-310-7600. Open daily 9am-5pm) offers the chance to tackle almost three kms of rope bridges, tarzan swings, and giant zip lines, all while hanging 20m above the ground in the jungle canopy. The center, which also operates in Pattaya and Krabi, has been running since 2007 and uses equipment that’s passed international safety standards, so you need only worry about the vertigo while leaping, surfing and even cycling from tree-to-tree. Prices start from B1,100) including hotel transfers and refreshments.
Getting There & Around From Bangkok you can fly (Bangkok Airways, 20 minutes, www. bangkokair.com), get a bus from Mo Chit & Ekkamai terminals (5-6 hours, B248) or drive a car. Ferries (B80/person, B120/ car) run between Thammachat Pier and the island from 6:30am-7pm and the crossing takes around 30 minutes. To get around the Island, you can flag down songthaew (covered pickups) just about anywhere (fares from B30). Motorbikes and scooters are easy to hire but due to the treacherous driving conditions we’d really recommend sticking to the pickups.
Where to Stay High-End
Centara Koh Chang
Centara Koh Chang Renovated last year, this member of the Thai hotel chain offers a choice of modern rooms and quaint tropical cottages, all set in a beautifully landscaped garden. It also boasts an excellent location at one end of Klong Prao
Beach, two pools, a kids club, a beach bar that screens films nightly, a beachside restaurant and a branch of the respected SPA Cenvaree. From B2,380. 26/3 Moo 4, Klong Prao beach, 039-557-122. www. centarahotelsresorts. com/CKC
Boutique
Warapura Resort Sat on a quiet stretch of Lonely Beach, this small resort has just 20 rooms but packs plenty of character into its five different room types which range from Cozy Villas (from B1,500) to Seaside Villas (from
B2,250). There’s also a large Central pool, a spa and a seaside restaurant. 4/3 Moo 1, Kohchang Tai, 039-558-123. www. warapuraresort.com
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where ESCAPES
where news Y Thailand
Grand openings, hot promotions and special events throughout Thailand
TRisara Villa
Trisara Seafood
Pullman Phuket’s C Bar
PHUKET
PHUKET
Ocean Fresh
Finding Neverland
It’s been eight years since it first opened its doors but Trisara, sat in a peaceful location on the quiet side of Nai Thon Beach, has aged remarkably well. The high-end resort, with its 39 impressive pool villas has just unveiled its new restaurant Trisara Seafood, where guests dine amid a decor of bleached wood and cool colors inspired by Mediterranean beachside restaurants. Chef Chaloemchai “Gla” Prakobkit combines Phuket’s fresh seafood with epicurean techniques he picked up working at restaurants MYANMAR VIETNAM worldwide, including LAOS
It seems there are new hotel’s opening on the popular island all the time and one of the latest is the Pullman Phuket Arcadia. Opened three months ago, it’s located at Nai Thon Beach, which is located close to the airport. It was designed by the Thai architect firm P49, which has previously received plaudits for work on the 20s-inspired Muse Hotel in Bangkok and the artful development of the 137 Pillars in Chiang Mai. Here, they pull colors and accents of the ocean into the 277 rooms, suites and pool villas which are scattered over a verdant cliff overlooking the Andaman Sea. In terms of facilities, there’s Thai restaurant Element, Italian restaurant Vero and three bars, with the highlight being C Bar, next to the lobby, where guests can lounge in an in-pool sofa and enjoy the seaview. This is the soft opening period so you can currently enjoy special rates starting from B3,066 per night. Nai Thon, Phuket, 076-303-299, www. pullmanphuketarcedia.com
Trisara’s new Sunday brunch
the three Michelin-starred El Celler de Can Roca in Spain, currently ranked first in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. His grilled tiger prawns with Himalayan salt, for example, are a great marriage of local produce and an imported ingredient. That’s not the only interesting dining news at Trisara. Their other main restaurant, The Deck, has just launched a Sunday brunch featuring an array of THAILAND seafood and international classics with highlights including the giant lobsters, Bangkok tiger prawns and fresh oysters, along with live jazz tunes from Phuket-based artists. B2,100 per person. 69/1 Moo 6 Sri Soonthorn Rd., Cherngtalay, Phuket, 076310-100. www.trisara.com Chiang Mai
Petchabun
Bangkok Pattaya
ANDAMAN SEA
Rayong
Koh Samed
GULF OF SIAM
Samui
Phang Nga
Phuket
SOUTH CHINA SEA
Phuket
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Chic Holiday Leading Thai architect Duangrit Bunnag, known for his minimalist style, has teamed up with a visionary hotelier to create a cutting-edge contemporary resort, The Naka Phuket. Unveiled just last month on a cliff overlooking Kamala Bay, it has already become the latest member of the Design Hotels group, a collection of stylish hotels worldwide, along with its sister Casa de la Flora in Khaolak (designed by VasLab Studios). Duangrit’s signature touches are everywhere: sharp-edged steel, raw cement and lots of natural woods combined in an airy space with floor-toceiling windows that offer 180-degree sea views. All villas come with a pool and range from a 205-sq-meter-one-bedroom unit to a 526-sq-meter-three-bedroom suite. There are also three F&B outlets, a spa and even their own chapel for private weddings. It all looks very impressive from the images we’ve seen so far and should really appeal to the style-conscious traveler. They have a selection of introductory rates such as B12,132 per night for an ocean view pool villa with breakfast, which is 45% cheaper than best available rates, exclusive of taxes and service charges. 1/18,20 Moo 6, Kamala, Kathu, Phuket, 076-337-999, www.thenakaphuket.com
Koh Samui, Surat Thani
The Naka Island
Starting from this month, W Retreat Koh Samui, perched on Maenam Beach, is introducing a new service, Sail Thru. It lets budding mariners set sail on the resort’s Bar-B-Q Reloaded Happening buffet (every Saturday, 12:30-4pm). Just order your favorite dishes on their private yacht and then enjoy them after a leisurely cruise. Landlubbers can also join the party at W’s beachfront SIP Bar and enjoy a buy-one-get-one-free deal for its signature Sunset Wowtini between 3:306:30pm. The chic resort has also launched a series of room deals starting from B12,000 per villa per night. If you are expecting a longer stay, book the villa for three consecutive nights and your fourth night is free (until December 21). 4/1 Moo 1, Maenam, Koh Samui, 077-915-999, www.whotels.com
Wave Hotel
Pattaya, Chonburi
New Wave With its vivid façade and Art Deco style, the brand new Wave Hotel unapologetically takes its design cues from Miami Beach and transports it to the Beach Road in Pattaya. Situated next door to Central Festival Mall, this new hotel comes complete with flashy neon lighting and a hot pink 1940s Cadillac in the front yard. They keep the theme going inside too with a selection of American comfort food available at the Cadillac Café, while drinks and a beach view are available at the Miami-themed Cabana Bar. 310/2 Beach Road, Pattaya, Chonburi 03-8423877 www.wavepattaya.com
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Peranakan wedding rituals Lovebirds looking for a slightly different theme to their wedding day might want to check out the The Phuket Baba Wedding 2013 organized by the Thai Peranakan Association in cooperation with the Tourism Authority of Thailand this month. Baba or Peranakan weddings denote marriages between Chinese immigrants and the local Malay population. In the late 19th Century they were a means of displaying the wealth and social standing of the family. If you want to see it in action then you can go and witness a group wedding ceremony take place at Hongsyok House on June 22. If you feel inspired to tie the knot, then you could even take part as the association is currently offering a special wedding package. Priced at B39,900 per couple, it includes a pre-wedding spa treatment at Sukko Spa & Resort, the ceremony on June 22, followed by a wedding feast at The Blue Elephant Cooking School & Restaurant Phuket on June 23 and a seafood lunch on June 24. For more information and reservations, visit www. phuketbaba.com Pattaya, Chonburi
Guitar Lovers After 15 months of renovations, Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya, on the Beach Road, returns and is turning up the volume again. Quite literally, it seems with its PICKS program that offers music-loving guests a chance to choose a guitar from the lobby and rock out in their room, free of charge. The choice of axes includes classics like Fender Stratocasters, Telecasters and includes the loan of and an amp. Don’t worry about complaints from neighbors because you also get a pair of Soul by Ludacris headphones for instant sound proofing, though we’re not sure about your screaming fans. If you can’t play then you might be more interested in the TRACKS promotion which lets you download a free 15-song playlist from iTunes upon check-in. 429 Moo 9 Pattaya Beach Road, Chonburi, 03-8428755-9 www.hardrockhotels.net
Hard Rock’s Pick Program
Koh Samed, Rayong
Beach Festival A popular weekend destination for young Bangkokians and travelers alike, thanks to its white sandy beaches, and clear blue water, Koh Samed is hosting the fourth installment of its Samed Music Festival. The lineup is a who’s who of Thai music with Modern Dog, Slot Machine and The Richman Toy among a host of big names who’ll be performing on Sai Kaew beach, alongside a huge foam party on June 8. Tickets are B800 at www. thaiticketmajor.com or call 02-262-3456. More information at www.facebook.com/ samedinlove PHUKET
Old Town, New Openings Our latest visit to Phuket confirmed that the less touristy, but very charming, old town is still the best nightlife spot on the island with Yaowarat Road at its epicenter. Still, things have been kept fresh by some interesting new arrivals. Close to the popular Saneha bar, Juiceraw (91 Yaowarat Rd., 092-0202315) is a one-month-old juice bar set in a minimally revamped shophouse where you can try a selection of raw fruit and vegetable juices. The next step will see hostel style rooms added to the upper floor. On Rassada Road, not far from Yaowarat, is Duke’s Fusion Bar & Bistro (14 Rassada Rd., 076-210-535), a relatively new bistro serving up fusion food and drinks amid an industrial-themed decor.
Phuket Marathon
If you want to eschew the beach to really explore the old town, then the long standing Imperial Hotel has now been renamed the Sino Imperial (51 Phuket Rd., 076-230098/9, www.sino-imperial-phuket.com) and has received a total face lift converting it into an all-white hotel complete with colorful LED lights and Sino-Portuguese decor details. Rates are from B1,200 through October 31. PHUKET
Beach Run Now one of the hottest marathon festivals in Thailand, Laguna Phuket International Marathon is going to be held along Phuket’s beachfront on June 9. While it’s probably too late to compete in the 42 km event, there are lots of related activities if you want to get out there and join in, such as the kids run and a two-kilometer walk for health. For more information, contact TAT Phuket office, 076212-213 or www.phuketmarathon.com PETCHABUN
Summer Blooms The rainy season might now been in full swing but that just gives you the perfect reason to head to Nam Nao National Park and catch sight of the rare euang bussarakham wild orchid in full bloom. This month, orchid lovers will have the chance to witness the blooming of these extremely delicate flowers whose stem can reach lengths of up to two meters. To avoid disappointment check with TAT Phitsanulok (055-252-742/3) before planning your trip.
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The latest fashion picks from leading Thai designers
Asava Spring/Summer 2013
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1 Greyhound Original printed shirt, B3,795. Try 3/F, Siam Center, 02-251-4917. 2 Something Boudoir suede shoes, B2,290. 3/F, Siam Center, 02-658-1098. 3 Senada blouse, B3,650. Try 3/F, Siam Center, 02-252-2752. 4 Issue printed pants, B6,190. Try 1/F, Siam Paragon, 02-610-7862. 5 Tu’i leather bag with fur detail, B33,800. Try 1/F, CentralWorld, 02-658-6551. 6 Milin hot pants, B5,650. Try 3/F, Siam Center, 02-658-1134. 7 Greyhound Original leather shoes, B7,695. 8 Boyy Jacques oversized bag, B25,000. Try 1/F, Central Chidlom, 02-793-7777. june 2013 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 17
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ThewhereGuide june 2013 | Bangkok
ART
Buffalo’s Heart One of Thailand’s leading young artists, Maitree Siriboon, whose work has already been exhibited across the globe, opens his latest exhibition this June. Like much of his previous work, this exhibition features his home region of Isaan (Northeast Thailand) as a backdrop to the central theme, which focuses on both the symbolic and real importance of the buffalo in relation to Thai culture, agriculture and history through a series of offbeat and thought-provoking photographs and mosaics. June 15-July 13. Thavibu Gallery, Suite 433, 4/F, The Silom Galleria Building, 919/1 Silom Rd., 02-266-5454.
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navigate.........................................................29 maps........................................................... 30-34
Note that the reference at the end of the listings (WS24, ZD3, etc.) applies to the coordinates on the individual maps on pages 30-34. Listings without coordinates indicate locations not within the maps.
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Arts+antiques ART GALLERIES 100 TONSON GALLERY — With a prime location and well-designed space, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-684-1527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20
ROOFTOP GALLERY — With galleries in LA and New York, Hossein Farmani brings his passion for photography to the rooftop of the Design International School on Thonglor. 4/F, 440/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor) 090-910-8373. Open Wed-Fri 12pm-7pm. ZA6
BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTRE (BACC) — The city’s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art-related shops in its impressive 11-story structure. 939 Rama I Rd., Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th YM16
SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — Both a shop and a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai artworks. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040. Open daily 9am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www. sombatpermpoongallery.com YL21
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GOSSIP GALLERY — Having recently moved to a new venue on Rama 9 this multifaceted space showcases contemporary pieces from both local and international artists. No.71 Seree 6 (Soi 2) Rama 9 Soi 51, www. gossipgallerybkk72.com. H GALLERY — Set in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions representing emerging contemporary Asian artists. 201, Sathorn Soi 12, 081-310-4428. BTS Surasak. Open WedMon 10am-6pm. www.hgallerybkk.com XH11
THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC) — Home to a large art library, and host to temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-9pm. www. tcdc.or.th ZC4 THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes. 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-281-5360/1. Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. WS27 V64 — More than 60 artists from Chatuchak Weekend Market teamed up to transform a three-acre space into a large art center, which features studios, a gallery, an art academy, shop and restaurant. 143/19 Chaengwattana Soi 1 Yak 6, Bhangkhen. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.v64artstudio.com
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dharma text next to image
Dharma Text Next To Image. As part of the mini-retrospective of Thailand’s forgotten photography masters, Kathmandu Gallery presents a series of photos of Buddhadasa Bhiku who fought against attempts by people to turn his portraits into sacred icons. Seeing photography as a tool to communicate dharma, however, he later created this series which includes a dharma-teaching poem. Through June 30, Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700. XI11
Unbuilt/Rare Works. The Jim Thompson Art Centre presents over 60 recovered drawings by the late Thai contemporary artist Montien Boonma whose work has been exhibited around the world. Through July 31. Jim Thompson Art Centre, Soi Kasem San 2, Rama 1 Rd. BTS National Stadium. YM15
Out of Sight. A joint exhibition by five Chinese artists who were all born during the 1970s-80s. Deng Biwen, Huang Cheng, Wu Junhong, Ye Nan and Zhang Xiangxi all present their own personal experiences of the rapidly changing world through a series of mixed media installations. Through June 22. Tang Gallery, 5/F Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Rd. 02-630-1114. XI10
NATIONAL GALLERY — Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd., 02281-2224, 02-282-2639-40. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www.national-gallery.go.th WQ27
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Where Special | Arts+Antiques
Premjit Thai Crafts The only place in Ratchaprasong District that offers authentic antiques, wood crafts and Buddha images from Thailand, Myanmar and Laos at affordable prices. Retail and wholesale. Visit our showroom at Amarin Plaza, 3rd fl., Thai Craft Market Zone C1,C3,Ploenchit Rd., Ratchaprasong.Tel: 081-424-0587 Email: kurunusart@yahoo.com
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Attractions Museums JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. B100. www.jimthompsonhouse.com YM15 NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous property houses some of the most impressive architecture, art and antiques in the country. Na Phrathat Rd., 02-215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. B50. www.nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th WQ27 SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household features eight Thai-style houses that showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period along with prehistoric relics from Baan Chiang. 02-354 Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-246-1775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www. suanpakkad.com MUSEUM SIAM — This completely restored colonial-style building is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-225-2777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. B300. www.museumsiam. com WQ23 MUSEUM OF FLORAL CULTURE — Founded by one of Thailand’s leading florists, Sakul Intakul, this museum tells the story of how geography, tradition, and beliefs have influenced the handling and presentation of flowers, and in turn, how these have affected history. Samsen Soi 28, Dusit, 02-669-3633/4. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Tours in English run daily at 11am. B150. QUEEN SIRIKIT MUSEUM OF TEXTILES — Opened last year this museum tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand. Highlights include the Queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading designers, Grand Palace, Na Phralan Rd., 02-225-9420. Open daily 9am-4:30pm. Entry fee B150. Proper attire is required. WP25
Attractions FLOW HOUSE — If you’re missing the beach, then why not go surfing in the middle of the city? That’s what Flow House offers, thanks to a special machine which gives a similar experience to riding a real wave. It also features bars, restaurants and retail shops specializing in water sports gear. Lessons are available for novices and prices cover board hire, use of showers and towels. Sukhumvit Soi 26. Open Sun-Thu 8am11pm; Fri-Sat 8am-midnight. Prices from B550 per hour. www.flowhousebangkok.com
FUNARIUM — This giant indoor soft play area provides painting, crafts, bike riding, roller blading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas, ensuring there’s plenty for the kids to do. 111/1 Sukhumvit 26, 02-6656555. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 8:30am-8:30pm. B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults for three hours. Socks required. www.funarium.co.th KIDZANIA — The newly-opened venue looks to offer children aged 4-14 the chance to explore a huge variety of different career paths in this kid-centric replica city. In fact, there are over 80 professions to experience from airline pilots and fire fighters to chefs and engineers. 5/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-683-1888, BTS Siam. Open 10am-5pm Mon-Fri and 10am-3pm; 4pm-9pm Sat/Sun and holidays. Tickets from B650 per child and B400 per adult., via www. thaiticketmajor.com. Bangkok.kidzania.com. KIDZOOONA —Actually split into two main sections, Molly’s Gateway is a big arcade but Kidzoona offers a large space for children to explore. As well as giant inflatables and a big ball pit, there is the chance for children to dress up as builders, firemen, chefs and more in Papertown. 5/F, Gateway Mall Ekkamai, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-108-2650/-52. Open daily from 10am-9pm. B180-B330 for kids and B90 for adults. Socks required. BTS Ekkamai. PLAYTIME — Located on the third floor of upscale neighborhood mall Parklane, the main room is dominated by a large play-gym area. There’s also a separate space for under threes, a sandpit, ice skating rink, climbing wall, electric car track and more. Upstairs offers a cafeteria. 3-4/F, Parklane Ekamai, opposite Ekamai Soi 2, 02-382-0077. Open Mon-Thu 9am-6pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 9am-7:30pm. B210350 for kids and B110 for adults. Socks required. www.playtime.co.th
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Ancient City (Muang Boran) Fancy a day spent cycling past Chedi Chet Yot in Chiang Mai or clambering up the steps of Preah Vihear on the Cambodian border but don’t have the time to visit during your stay? Why not just head to Muang Boran, also known as the Ancient City. This cultural park, about 30 minutes past Bearing BTS station, features 3/4 size replicas of most of the Kingdom’s historical sites set in gorgeous parkland laid out in the shape of Thailand. You can rent bikes there—B50/B150 (single/ three-speed) and pay B50 to cycle round the Kingdom in an afternoon or jump on the trams. Samut Prakarn, 02-709-1644. Open daily 8am-5pm. www.ancientcity.com WAT TRAIMIT WITTAYARAM — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm.
MADAME TUSSAUDS — The famous wax work museum makes it to Bangkok and features a star studded line up of incredibly life-like movie stars, politicians and sportsmen drawn from all over the world. 6/F, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama I Rd., 02-658-0060. Open daily 10am-9pm. Tickets B800 adults, B600 children over 5. BTS Siam. YM16 SIAM OCEAN WORLD — Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. Highlights include the underwater tunnel, penguin enclosure and the glass bottom boat tour. Basement, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.,02-6872000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm. B900 for adults, B700 for children. YM17
cultural attractions WAT ARUN (TEMPLE OF DAWN) — Sat on the river’s edge the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmerstyle tower) is decorated with millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means “morning” and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arun Amarin Rd. Wat Arun Pier. WP22
wat phra kaeo
GRAND PALACE AND WAT PHRA KAEO (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture. Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace is Wat Phra Kaeo, home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. Also, don’t miss the exquisite mural wall paintings that adorn the cloisters. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. Free English tours available at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm. B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25
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DINING
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Amontre Playroom & Brasserie
This new restaurant and bar offers a quirky venue for sports fans and casual diners alike thanks to the large indoor and outdoor dining areas and sports bar tucked upstairs. There’s a playfulness about the whole place with the walls, ceiling and tables acting as chalkboards and scribbled with quotes. Things get even more fun on the mezzanine floor with a big screen, a popcorn machine and a foosball table. The food is designed for sharing and covers classic Western options like sandwiches, burgers and pizza with added sour and spicy Thai touches, like the burger moo ping (Thai style grilled pork) served with tamarind sauce in a little tube. As well as colourful and potent cocktails, there are also some 30 labels of beer to choose from. Lobby, Urbana Sathorn, 55 South Sathorn Rd., 02-359-9667-8. Open daily 6am-midnight (bar opens at 6pm). XG13
DOWNTOWN Y PICK LE BEAULIEU — French. $$$$ Chef
Herve Frerard corks up hearty, rustic options like the baked morteau sausage served with a rich tomato lentil sauce and terrine de pot au feu alongside bistro classics like bouillabaisse and sole meunière. It’s simple dishes using high quality ingredients imported direct from France or making the most of the chef’s involvement with the Royal Projects. G/F, Athénée Office Tower, 63 Wireless Rd., 02168-8220-3 www.le-beulieu.com YN21
D’SENS — French. $$$$ The French-imported eatery by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers has all the oomph one might expect. The dimly-lit dining room has a view of Lumphini Park, and the food is bold and exciting. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10pm. XF10
LA MONITA TAQUERIA — Mexican. $$ Handsdown the best place for a quesadilla or fish taco. The décor and service aren’t much, but you won’t care after your third Reposado Margarita. Mahatun Plaza, 888/26 Phloenchit Rd., 02-650-9581. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-10pm. YM21
Y PICK NAHM — Thai. $$$$ Former holder
of a Michelin star, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-6253333. Open daily noon-2pm, 7-11pm. XG13
Y PICK GAGGAN — Indian. $$$$ After a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and some wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02-652-1700. BTS Chit Lom. 6pm-midnight. YO19
$$$$ Chef Ian Kittichai made his name in New York but returns to his home country with this restaurant, set in a delightful wooden mansion and featuring inventive twists on classic Thai recipes. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., Sathorn Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. www.issaya. com
Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$
Y PICK EAT ME — International. $$$$ The
décor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic. The kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 3pm-1am. XG11
Y PICK ISSAYA SIAMESE CLUB — Thai. $$$-
NAHM
Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up
Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.
Area guide NIU’S — Italian. $$$$ Muted tones, crisp white tablecloths and large windows let the inventive and delicious Italian food take center stage. Niu’s also has an extensive wine list and often hosts top-name jazz acts downstairs. Baan Silom, 661 Silom Rd., 02-266-5333. Open daily 5pm-1am. XI10
Downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods Lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 Upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53
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DINING RUEN URAI — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house, decorated with a blend of contemporary furniture and rare Thai crafts, it offers a polished menu of solid recipes. Rose Hotel, 118, Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. XF8
Y PICK SOMTAM DER — Thai. $ Yards from the
bustle of Silom Rd., this spot brings typical street food into a more upmarket setting. The menu has a focus on somtam, a spicy Thai papaya salad, and other classic Northeastern dishes. 5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am-10pm. XF11
SRA BUA — Thai. $$$$ The sister of Michelinstarred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen offers Thai food with a molecular twist in a soaring, glittering palace dotted with lotus ponds. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-1629000. BTS Siam. Open daily noon-11pm. YL17
UPPER SUKHUMVIT Y NEW APPIA — Italian. $$$ Jarret Wrisley of
the popular Soul Food Mahanakorn teams up with Chef Paolo Vitaletti who is committed to his family food principle, creating wonderful Roman-style pastas. Also, do expect a carefully curated wine selection. 20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-261-2056. Open daily 6-11pm. ZC4 Y PICK BO.LAN — Thai. $$$$ Chefs Bo and Dylan offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a charming house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes to reflect the seasons. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962. Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pmmidnight. ZD5 NEAR EQUAL — Thai. $$-$$$ This long-term favorite is set in a quaint house down a lovely leafy street. Upstairs the wood floors and antique pieces make for a delightful spot to enjoy well-balanced Thai dishes; then head downstairs to browse the selection of Thai furniture and handicrafts. 22/2 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-258-1565. ZC5
Y PICK INDUS — Indian. $$$ An ambient spot
SRA BUA
ZENSE — International. $$$$ The rooftop dining venue of Zen Department Store has reopened with an all-new look and a striking view of downtown. Taste dishes from five kitchens courtesy of five famous Bangkok restaurants. 17/F, Zen, CentralWorld, 02-100-9898. Open daily 5pm1am. www.zensebangkok.com YM19 ZUMA — Japanese. $$$$ Their generous salads mix avocado and fresh sushi. The bar is made from a single, monumental slab of stone and the garden is air-conditioned. It’s all wonderfully glamorous. G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-636-0002. Open Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm. YN18
with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual north Indian favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. ZE5
THE LOCAL — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef and co-owner Can Markawat keeps the focus on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find traditional recipes. They’re all served in a beautiful hundred-yearold house. There are cooking lessons every Wednesday, too. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm ZA3
LOWER SUKHUMVIT 11 GALLERY — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34, Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. ZB1
Y PICK ABOVE ELEVEN — Fusion. $$$ The
twist of this rooftop bar and restaurant, apart from a great city view, is a concept that focuses on Nikkei cuisine: a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. 32/F Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-9300. www. aboveeleven.com ZA1
ROSABIENG — Thai. $-$$ This two-story wooden house-turned-restaurant is a great place for those seeking an introduction to Thai food, thanks to its broad menu of properly executed dishes. 3 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-253-5868. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Sat 11am-11pm. ZB1
DINING NEWS & PROMOTIONS
RED SKY
Sky Dining Visit the breathtaking rooftop bar and restaurant Red Sky (55/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-1234) during June as Chef Mikko Kataja whips up daily specials. For example, drop by Wednesday to sample the charcoal-grilled Wagyu ribeye (B3,695 for 26 oz.) or Thursday for the pan-roasted skirt steak with shallot red wine sauce (B1,555). Head there early for the sunset and the buy-one-getone-free happy hour (5-8pm) on house wines, sangria and draught beers.
Lanna Beans Chiang Mai boutique coffee roaster Pacamara (Sukhumvit Soi 55 [in front of Thonglor Soi 3], 086-190-2279) has just opened its first café in Bangkok. The place sells beans, coffee-making equipment and, of course, cups of coffee starting from B55. In line with one of Bangkok’s hotter trends, they also offer a choice of craft beers from Hitachino Nest.
Kids Are Welcome The classy diVino TheWineRoom (Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor, Sukhumvit 55, 02-714-8723, 02392-3518.) has just launched a new kids menu and to celebrate they are running a special offer until Jun 30 that lets children under 10 years old enjoy one choice from this new menu for free. Don’t worry adults there are plenty of things for you to enjoy too, including a new 5-course set menu starting from B1,350 and a tapas set from B600. And thanks to their new Winefit machine, wine lovers can now taste any wine by the glass before ordering the whole bottle.
Y NEW SHUFFLE — Western. $$$ A brainchild PASTE
PASTE — Thai. $$$ Run by chef couple Bongkoch Satongun and Jason Bailey, who take their inspiration from Thai royal cuisine, everything here is homemade from locally-sourced ingredients completed with inventive techniques and artful presentation. 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-392-4313. www.pastebangkok.com ZA5
Y PICK QUINCE — International. $$$ Quince’s country-classic theme goes for a casual and rustic ambiance that’s part industrial part Spanish villa. The kitchen’s focus is all about sustainability, ethical eating and local produce with down-to-earth home cooking and a ‘market’ menu that changes frequently. Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478. Open daily 6-10pm. www.quincebangkok.com ZC5
of the former chef of one of the city’s leading gourmet burger joints, this industrial-chic restaurant focuses on fresh ingredients, with rotating specials (hence the name, Shuffle). Highlights include familiar favourites like chicken wings and herb fries and the delicious BBQ ribs. 2/F, Rainhill, 777 Sukhumvit Rd., corner of Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-261-6992. Open daily 10am-midnight. ZC5
SMITH — International. $$$$ Set in a former furniture warehouse, it’s decked out in an elegant industrial theme, with walls lined with butcher’s tools. Chef Peter Pitakwong’s menu focuses on two things: locally-sourced ingredients and nose-to-tail cooking. 1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-261-0515. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. ZC5
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DINING THONGLOR/EKKAMAI
RIVERSIDE
LITTLE BEAST—International. $$-$$$ Owned by a group of best friends who met in New York, this stylish gastro bar serves French and New American cuisine. Enjoy the homemade charcuterie plate or the popular snap peas with chicken skin salad and creative cocktails in a 1920s-inspired space.44/9-10, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2670. Open Tue-Sun 5:30pm-1am. ZB5
CHON — Thai. $$$$ Set in a beautiful Thai teak house overlooking the Chao Phraya River, Chon (“spoon” in Thai) is making a name for itself thanks to its authentic Thai food. The Siam Hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd., Dusit, 02-206-6999. Free shuttle boat from Central Pier. www. thesiamhotel.com
PHUKET TOWN — Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional Southern-style dishes like kanom chine namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that has plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches. Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm. ZC6 SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN — Thai. $$-$$$ Soul Food dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails, as well as a brief menu of well-executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect and the place is often packed. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pmmidnight. ZC6
Y PICK SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM— Thai.
$$ Sat in a three-story shophouse, this new Thai restaurant offers a cozy yet chic décor. The menu is based on what the owner’s grandmom used to cook—Thai food that borrows both from her hometown of Trat, and where the family now lives, Khon Kaen. Expect authentic and often rare dishes. 160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (between Thonglor Soi 6 and 8). Open TueSun 11:30am-11:30pm ZC6
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LE NORMANDIE — French. $$$$ The Mandarin Oriental’s showcase restaurant has set the standard for service and cuisine for years. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm; daily 7-10:30pm. XJ11 MEI JIANG — Chinese. $$$$ This elegant establishment overlooking the Chao Phraya River offers one of the best dim sum experiences in town. The food is authentic Cantonese, while the service is knowledgeable and courteous. The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-861-2888. BTS Saphan Taksin. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm.
EXPERT’S PICK
CHON
Nan Bunyasaranand Chef at Little Beast
SUPATRA RIVERSIDE — Thai. $$$$ Situated on the Thonburi side of the river, the view from the terrace of this Thai house is amazing. There are regular cultural performances and a range of classic Thai dishes. Free boat from Maharaj Pier. 266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arunamarin Rd., 02411-0305. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm. ZP26
“My favorite Thai eatery is Jae Fai (327 Mahachai Rd., 02-223-9384). I love all the stir-fried noodle dishes there, with the slightly charred noodles fried on a charcoal stove that gives off a unique smoky flavor. The crab omelet is also delicious, golden brown on the outside and stuffed with generous chunks of sweet crabmeat.”
SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM
WATER LIBRARY — International. $$$$ A restaurant that serves a maximum of ten diners per night, with a 12-course set menu using the very best ingredients that starts at 7.30pm on the dot and is prepared in front of you by an army of chefs. It’s very sophisticated, very sexy and yes, it’s expensive, but also very memorable. There’s also a neighboring wine bar. Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, 02-714-9292/-3. Open Mon-Sat 6pm1am. ZB6 XUAN MAI — Vietnamese. $$$ Probably the best Vietnamese restaurant in town, this is where former beauty queen-then-FBI agent chef Meyung Robson sources the best ingredients, often direct from Vietnam, and cooks them perfectly from traditional recipes. 351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-185-2619. Open TueSun 11am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 11:30ammidnight; Sun 11:30am-10pm. ZA6
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nightlife FETE DE LA MUSIQUE POOL PARTY
Associated with the major Fête de la Musique event (see Hot Dates, page 4), Sofitel So Bangkok celebrates Thailand’s longest day on June 22 with a festival closing party at the hotel’s stunning Water Club swimming pool. As well as the great view, guests can enjoy tunes spun by seven of Bangkok’s leading DJs dropping by from famous clubs like Bed Supperclub, Levels and Demo, plus a barbecue and signature cocktails. 2-9pm. Entry B250 per person with one drink. 2 North Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000. MRT Lumphini. www. facebook.com/SofitelSoBangkok XF2
Downtown Hyde & Seek — Elevated pub grub, one of Bangkok’s best cocktail menus and a décor that conjures up Victorian drawing room style and NYC sophistication. Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-168-51523. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. YM21
Y New Maggie Choo’s — Bar mogul Ashley
Sutton’s latest venture continues his trend of quirky décor, surreal concepts and distinct atmospheres to portray a dramatic story of a post-war Chinese lady, Maggie Choo, who opened a secret “speakeasy” bar on a tiny alley off Silom. 320 Silom Rd., 02-635-6055. BTS Surasak. XI10
Park Society — For a real breath of fresh air and a park view, head up to Park Society on the 29th floor of the trendy Sofitel So. Inside is for fine dining while the rooftop is all about interesting cocktails, lounge tunes and the striking view. For more intimacy try the small mezzanine one level up called Hi-So Cabana (B500 entry with one drink). 29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000. Open daily 5pm-1am. XF2
Y pick Scarlett — Perched on Pullman
Bangkok Hotel G’s top floor, it features an al fresco terrace with fantastic views, an extensive and affordable wine list, industrial bistro décor and interesting tapas options. 37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd, 02-238-1991. BTS Chong Nonsi. XH10
The Speakeasy — This two-story space harks back to the jazz age of the 1920s with a prohibition-era inspired décor, featuring lots of dark wood and Art Deco touches. A balcony on the 24th floor presents 180-degree views of Bangkok, while an al fresco rooftop offers a more leisurely terrace atmosphere. 24-25/F, Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan, 02-6304000. BTS Phloen Chit. YN19
WOOBar— The signature bar of W Bangkok proves much more than a regular lobby space thanks to its glitzy purple décor inspired by Muay Thai boxing, a chic selection of music ranging from lounge to techno, played by some of Bangkok’s hottest DJs, and creative cocktails using gastronomic techniques like fermentation and infusions. Lobby, W Bangkok, 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4000. Open daily 9am-midnight. BTS Chong Nonsi XH12
Sukhumvit Soi 11 Apoteka — As the name suggests, this bar features a 19th century apothecary-inspired décor. The theme influences the cocktail list (called “antidotes”) where you’ll find drinks with names like Penicilin and Mr. Hyde. 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 090-626-7655. Open Mon-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am; Sun 3pm-midnight. BTS Nana. ZA1
Levels — Decked out with a huge LED chandelier above a circular bar and a bunch of monochrome sofas surrounding a sizeable dance floor, this cavernous recent addition to the Soi 11 strip aims for a rather swanky audio-visual clubbing experience with international DJs regularly dropping in. 6/F Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246. Open daily 9pm-3am. www. levelsclub.com ZA1
Y SPoTLIGHT
Y pick Bed Supperclub — Bangkok’s leading club, with a space-age interior, is divided into two sides—the restaurant, which offers creative food and cutting-edge performances; and the club, where beautiful people dance to everything from house to d’n’b. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. Open daily 7pm-2am. www.bedsupperclub.com ZA1
Beervault — This simple and sleek bar is a mecca for imported brews, boasting 48 bottled beers from 12 different countries and six draught beers. Four Points by Sheraton Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 15, 02-309-3113. Open daily 11-1am. ZB2 Nest — Nest offers a perfect blend of sexy sophistication and chill out chic. Lay back on their super comfy daybeds while you enjoy the open air clubby vibe. Rooftop of LeFenix Hotel, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255-0638/9. Open daily 4pm-2am. www.nestbangkok.com. ZA1
Brotzeit Having successfully expanded throughout Asia, German beer bar and restaurant Brotzeit has finally launched a new franchise in the nightlife hub of Thonglor. They promise solid Bavarian cuisine and a list of world-famous German beers in a contemporary ambiance with the highlight being the outdoor terrace. Swing by for the weisswurst (traditional Bavarian pork and veal sausages served with pretzels) during their happy hour (5-8pm), when draft beers start from just B130. 308 Thonglor Soi 10, 081-920-5929. ZB6
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nightlife Oskars — A comforting menu, a long list of drinks and a great DJ mean this bistro, in the heart of club land, is a popular spot for supper and preclub drinks. 24, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255 3377. Open daily 6-11pm. ZA1 Q Bar— The Soi 11 institution continues to deliver a heady mix of bass lines and international DJs but their remodelled 2nd floor, with a large outdoor patio, means it’s also a great spot to kick back with friends. In the back, Le Derriere serves absinthe and oysters in a 1900s French decor. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-3274 BTS Nana. Open daily 8pm-1am. ZA1
ThongLor/Ekkamai The Bookshop — Located next to the lobby of a high-end condominium, this brainchild of nightlife impresario Ashley Sutton, the man behind the ever-popular Cloud’s and Fat Gut’z, delivers a characteristically playful and bizarre interior reminding us of Professor Dumbledore’s library with a creative drinks menu by mixologist Joseph Boroski to match. G/F, Ashton Condominium, Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-187-4949. Open daily 11am-midnight. BTS Thong Lo. ZD5 Clouds — The futuristic vision is certainly striking— from the undulating ceiling, sporting anything from roses to Barbies, to the acrylic seating. Potent cocktails from the laboratory of a bar add to the techno-eco-inspired theme. G/F, Seenspace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2365. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZB6
Y pick WTF — A collaboration between an art
curator, a hip hotelier and a photojournalist, WTF is actually a hybrid bar and exhibition space that’s popular with Bangkok’s creative expats and local hipsters. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. www.wtfbangkok. com ZC5
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Y SPoTLIGHT
Riverside Y pick Babble + Rum — This riverside
restaurant and bar is clad in a modern Frenchcafé decor, finished with dark woods and leather couches. An outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area make for a chill night out. 1-2/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Arthit Rd., 02-633-5000. Open daily 6:30am-1am. www.rivasurya.com WQ27
Viva & Aviv — Fitting for its riverside location, this venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nautically-inspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive, well-made cocktails and pub grub. River City, 23 Yota Rd., 02-639-6305. Open daily 11ammidnight. www.vivaaviv.com Three Sixty — Sat on the 32nd floor of this riverside hotel you can enjoy the amazing views courtesy of the large windows that run around this striking circular space while appreciating the regular live jazz and good wine selection. 32/F, Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoennakorn Rd., 02442-2000. Open daily 5pm-1am. Free ferry from BTS Saphan Thaksin. www.hilton.co.uk/bangkok
Axis & Spin Located on the 38th and 39th floors of the Continent Hotel Sukhumvit, Axis & Spin is Bangkok’s latest spot to offer up some striking panoramic views of the Bangkok skyline. Split over two floors, it looks to combine vintage decoration and modern design, while the wall to ceiling windows make the most of the sensational cityscapes. Interesting cocktails and live DJs keep the mood upbeat. Open daily 6pm-1am. 38-39/F, The Continent Hotel, 413 Sukhumvit Rd. between Sukhumviy Soi 21-23, 02-686-7000. ZC3
Fat Gut’z Saloon — Sitting on the corner of a small lifestyle mall, this hole-in-the-wall reminds us of a New Orleans speakeasy. A blues-fuelled band and fish n’ chips are the house specials. 1/F, Grass Thonglor, 264 Thonglor Soi 12, 02-714-9832. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZB6
Y NEW Moose Bar — This revamped space
above vintage furniture store Y50 offers a nofrills yet undeniably hip ambience and acoustic live music on weekdays, and more fun beats on weekends. Ekkamai Soi 21. Open daily 5pm1am. www.facebook.com/MooseBangkok
Mellow — Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, affluent locals, attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and delicious cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am. ZA6 Wine Republic — They take their vino seriously here, with a wall of bottles and informed staff to talk you through your purchase. The dark spit-and-sawdust interior and breezy outdoor terrace get very busy on weekends. Thonglor Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7599. Open daily 5:30pm-1am. ZB6
Y NEW Print Bar— The walls of the small
and very relaxed bar are decked out in all sorts of faux press clippings and black-and-white sketches while the cocktails are potent and fun. 159/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (opposite to Ei8ht Thonglor), 085-782-1866. Open Mon-Sat 6pm1:30. ZC6
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ShopS+Services Downtown Amarin Plaza — The mall’s Greco-Roman façade actually hides some unexpected gems. ID1 on the first floor holds an interesting collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs. 496-502 Phloenchit Rd., 02-6504704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com
CentralWorld — This massive shopping complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000-sq-meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for top brands like Topshop, Gap, Coach and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites like Boudoir, Kloset and Vickteerat. Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/ Siam. www.centralworld.co.th YM18
YM18
Central Chidlom — The closest thing Bangkok has to Harrods, Central Chidlom first opened in 1973 and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. It’s packed with leading brands, like Ralph Lauren, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the impressive Food Hall on the ground floor and the views from the international food court, up on the seventh. 1027 Phloenchit Rd., 02-7937777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th YM19 MBK Center — Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and at bargain prices. As a result,the chaotic MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good. Still it’s a lot of fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the 6th floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www.mbk-center.co.th YM16
mbk
Erawan Bangkok — This mini-mall might look petite, but its three floors offer some high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including Comme des Garçons, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Lanvin and Alexander Wang. 494 Phloenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com YM18
Siam Discovery — The sister mall of Siam Center celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul last year, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussaud’s wax museum. It also remains the place to come for Thai furniture brands. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamdiscovery. co.th YM16 Siam Paragon — With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like H&M and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a cinema. As well as lots of restaurants, there’s also a food court in the basement. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www. siamparagon.co.th YM17
Centralworld
Gaysorn — Thailand’s leading high-end mall is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Céline) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Phloenchit Rd., 02-656-1149. BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com YM18 Platinum Fashion Mall — Platinum is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashion-related from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even a single item is very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. www. platinumfashionmall.com YK18 Siam Center — One of the city’s most iconic malls has recently reopened after renovation and offers new, inspirational spaces for art and design, befitting its traditional reputation at the vanguard of the local fashion scene. The highlight is the Fashion Visionary space on the third floor, home to the flagship stores of top Thai designers like Something Boudoir, Theatre, Flynow III and multi-Thai-label store The Selected. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamcenter.co.th YM16
Sukhumvit The Emporium — Set in the heart of the city’s upscale residential area (home to Bangkok’s largest Japanese community), The Emporium offers luxury shopping, thanks to its tenant portfolio, which includes brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Dior and Celine, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal and Jim Thompson. There are also lots of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative & Design Center on the top floor. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www. emporiumthailand.com ZC4
Y SPoTLIGHT
Erb Boutique & Fluerfume Bar After years of being sold in department stores, Bangkok-based skincare brand Erb just opened its very own modern-looking home in Grass Thonglor. Inside the decor features checkered floors, white and aquamarine walls, while the space also squeezes in a spa room and a perfume bar. The products cover a range of head-to-toe skincare products like shower gels, massage oils, body scrubs, hand & feet creams, diffusers and oils, all made from herbal ingredients like bergamot, black pepper, jasmine and ginger. The real highlight, though, is the Bespoke Fluerfume Bar, Thailand’s first perfume bar where you can create your own signature scent. Grass Thonglor, Thonglor Soi 12, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-255-5872. BTS Thonglor. ZB6 26 W H E R E t h a i land I june 2013
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ShopS+Services Terminal 21 — Boasting an airport terminalcum-international destinations theme, as you travel through the nine floors you can stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the higher floors offer a host of intriguing boutiques by Thai designers. There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21. co.th ZB3
terminal 21
MARKETS Talat Rod Fai — This al fresco night bazaar has become a hot spot for vintage finds, thanks to the mix of retro fashion, décor and toys for sale and because of the laid-back ambience created by the ad hoc bars and cafés. Kamphaeng Phet Rd. MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Fri-Sun, 4pmmidnight.
Elsewhere Asiatique — This evenings-only shopping center is the first to sit on the banks of the Chao Phraya River and is themed according to the city’s architecture of old. Divided into several sections, ranging from the panoramic waterfront to a 100-year old refurbished sawmill, it includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashions and intriguing souvenirs, plus offers a variety of eateries, beer gardens and wine bars. The gigantic venue is also home to a new ferris wheel and the Joe Louis puppet theater and restaurant. You can catch the free ferry from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin). 2194 Charoenkrung R d., 02-108-4488. Open daily 4pm-midnight. OP Place — Situated in a beautiful neoclassicalstyle building close to the river, this gorgeous luxury mall oozes charm from the sweeping wooden staircase to the antique lift. The plushly-carpeted halls are home to a host of high-end boutiques offering unique and rare antiques and artifacts from across Southeast Asia, handcrafted jewelry, bespoke tailors and fine art. The Ashwood Gallery that occupies the whole third floor is home to some particularly striking pieces. There’s also a free shuttle service to the neighboring OP Garden, which houses an art gallery, restaurants and high-end boutiques. 30/1 Soi 38, Charoenkrung Rd., 02266-0186. Open daily 10:30am-7pm. XJ11
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Contemp Salon Bangkok’s newest multi-label store, recently opened in two of the city’s leading malls, brings together around 30 international designer labels. Inspired by Vogue Japan’s editor-at-large Anna Dello Russo’s wardrobe, Contemp Salon curates modern-minimal work and day wear from big names like Richard Nicoll, House of Holland, 10 Crosby by Derek Lam, See by Chloé, and Joseph as well as cutting-edge fashion accessories from brands like Shourouk, Veronique Branquinho and Pollini by Nicholas Kirkwood—most of which are exclusively available here. The Emporium, 1/F, 02-259-9347, BTS Phrom Phong and Paragon Department Store, M/F, 02-610-7781, BTS Siam. www.facebook.com/ contempsalon YM16
Chatuchak Market — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is one of the world’s largest weekend markets. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections, roughly categorized by the products each section offers. You can literally spend the weekend here amid the warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 10-24 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home-decor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.chatuchak.org
Expert’s Pick
Julalak Ponpipom Owner of Thai menswear brand Button Up (www. thebuttonup.com) “When it comes to men’s shoes here in Bangkok, one fave is definitely Mr. Tango (3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam). I like the character that their shoes evoke, there’s a sense of playfulness, while still keeping to a high level of craftsmanship and their range covers everything from formal, to casual and sports. The owner uses handcraft techniques learned from Italy which results in shoes with nice details” june 2013 I WHER E t ha i l a n d 27
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HEALTH + WELLNESS SPA Deverana Spa — The impressive white lobby has an almost heavenly quality while the 14 individual spa rooms are little sanctuaries to enjoy a range of treatments from milk baths to body scrubs. Dusit Thani, 946 Rama IV Rd., 02-636-3596. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.deveranaspa.com XF10
THE ORIENTAL SPA — The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Rd., 02659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. XJ9
Divana Virtue Spa — Tucked down a small soi close to the bustle of Silom, Divana Virtue Spa is authentic yet homely. Situated in a century-old house, decked out in an authentic Rama V style, it sits among a small yet lush garden to create a very private and calming atmosphere. 120 North Sathorn Rd., 02-637-8883. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 9am-11pm. XG13
LET’S RELAX — With branches around Thailand, and a wide variety of packages and trained masseuses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-662-6935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight. More branches: www.letsrelaxspa.com ZB3
ELEMIS SPA — The Elemis Spa is the first in SE Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the ancient Arabian sauna in the Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am-10pm. www. stregis.com/bangkok YN18 I.SAWAN — With its Tony Chi design and its classy residential cottages and treatment bungalows, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a fitness club, tennis and squash courts and a 25-meter pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com YN18 I Spa — One of Bangkok’s newest spa sanctuaries, the treatments offered here are based on therapies from China, India, Japan and Thailand, using five choices of essential oils based on Asian flowers and herbs. 9/F, The Landmark Bangkok, 138 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-252-9444. BTS Nana. www. ispathailand.com ZC1 Le Spa with L’Occitane — Thailand’s first Le Spa with L’Occitane boasts a contemporary Thai style combined with an elegant French touch. Treatments include the Golden Siamese Massage and Four Teas Ceremony. 9/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. between Soi 13-15, 02-126-9999. BTS Nana. ZB2
MULBERRY SPA — Set in a 60s-style residential compound, Mulberry Spa offers all the usual selection of treatments amid a classy-yet-cozy ambiance. 132 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1888. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 9am-11pm. Silom branch: 346/8-10 Silom Rd., 02-630-9888. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.mulberryspa.com THANN SANCTUARY SPA — Their treatments use their locally-made spa products and are offered within a tranquil space bathed in soothing lights. 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.thann. info YM18 PaNPURI ORGANIC SPA — Hidden behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of this luxury spa. Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1199. Open daily 10-8pm. www.panpuri.com YM18 SPA@tonson — This resort style spa includes nine treatment rooms and utilizes ancient Asian healing techniques through a range of treatments. The highlight has to be the special 4-hand massage. 5F, Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-658-7980. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-9pm. www.spatonson.com YM20 SPA BOTANICA — Surrounded by lush gardens, Spa Botanica is an urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best massage options. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd, 02-2344-8900. Open daily 9am-10pm. www. sukhothai.com XG13
Y SPoTLIGHT
S Sense Spa The new S Sense Spa, set in the Park Lane community mall, offers an elegant sanctuary with its softly-lit woodtoned lounge and a minimalist interior. Upon arrival, guests are greeted with a seasonal herbal tea before selecting a customized treatment from the range of therapeutic remedies, drawn from all around the world. We recommend S Sense’s signature “Physical Therapy,” which blends physical therapy techniques with a choice of massage therapy (body massage, Thai massage and foot massage), face therapy (facial treatment), body therapy (body scrub and wrap) and hydro therapy (steam and bath). Other facilities include a Spa Boutique and S Sense Tea Room which serves soothing organic herbal tea and light meals. 2/F, Park Lane, B Building, 18 Ekkamai Rd., Sukhumvit 63, 02-3821133. BTS Ekkamai. Open daily 11am10pm. www.ssensespa.com ZC7
Where Special | Wellness
I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok
I SPA, operator of 15 luxury Thai spas in China, has opened the first spa in
Thailand, bringing an exotic range of authentic health and beauty treatments from China, India, Indonesia, Japan and Thailand to pamper spa lovers with luxurious spa experiences.
Book now, quoting Where Thailand, and receive a 30% saving on all
treatments at I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok. The offer is valid until October 31, 2013.
I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok, Tel: 02-252-9444
Email: info@ispathailand.com, website: www.ispathailand.com
28 W H E R E T H A I LAND I june 2013
Health&Wellness_Jun_2013_3.indd 28
5/22/13 6:51 PM
BANGKOK
Navigate
overview
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3 Vimanmek Mansion
!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)
BTS (Silom Line)
4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall
!3 Lumpini Park
MRT
5 Khaosan Road
!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre
Airport Rail Link (ARL)
6 National Museum
!5 Siam Paragon
River/Klong (canal)
7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha
!6 CentralWorld and Zen
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Find out the latest news on Thailand at Www.wherethailand.com and Facebook.com/WhereThailand
june 2013 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 29
Navigate_Jun_2013.indd 29
5/22/13 6:53 PM
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BANGKOK
Navigate GET MOVING AIRPORT LINk—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (tenminute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B90 one-way and B150 roundtrip for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.
Mount in the heart of the Old Town, stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically-challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.
Z Dining
CANAL BOATS—While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only one canal (klong) still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden 1
Shopping
1. Almeta Silk A3 2. Terminal 21 B3 3. The Emporium C4
Art & Attractions
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3
TO BANG SUE STATION
12
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Health & Wellness
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1. 11 Gallery B1 2. 4 Garcons A6 3. Above Eleven A1 4. L’Appart B2 5. Appia C4 6. Baan Ice C6 7. Bacco C6 8. Bo.Lan D5 9. Gossip A6 10. Harvey B6 11. Hazara D6 12. Indus E5 13. Isao C4 14. Khun Churn D7 15. Khua Kling Paksod C6 16. Mr. Jones’ Orphanage B5 17. Near Equal C5 18. Paste A5 19. Phuket Town C6 20. Quince C5 21. Rosabieng B1 22. Rossini’s C2 23. Saigon Recipe B5 24. Shuffle C5
BANGKOK
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frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a Wat Arun Tha Tien Piergreat way to get a different perspective on Tha the·‹Phrachan city,Pier ÇÑ´ÍÃس Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã ·‹ÒàµÕ¹ as well as a good option for getting to many of the Shopping 1. Jim Thompson F8 temples and palaces built along the river. The main 2. OP Place J9 2 Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here Art & Attractions 1. 338 OIDA F14 and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to 2. H Gallery H11 Nonthaburi. Fares range from 9 B9 to B32 depending 1 3. Kathmandu Photo 1 on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket Wat Phra Kaeo Gallery I11 ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ Wat Po 2 ÇѴ⾸Ô์ (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and 4. Serindia Gallery J9 5. Silom Galleria: comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading CVN/Number 1 Galtourist attractions accessible from the river.
1. DJ Station F9 lery/Thavibu/Tang 2. Maggie Choo’s J10 Gallery I10 Ratchawong PierSociety F12 Q 3. Park ·‹ÒÃҪǧ¤ 4. Scarlett H10 5. Woo Bar H12 1. Body Tune G10 2. Devarana Spa F10 3. Divana Virtue Spa I12 4. Health Land H12 R 5. So SPA F12 6. Spa Botanica G13 India Emporium ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ¹à´Õ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ 7. The Oriental Spa ÍÔJ9
skytrain/underground—The Wat Rajapardit ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃдÔÉ°
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The Old Siam Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ China World ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ䫹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´
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main Central Business District before turning 26 27 North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past 28 Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) Chatuchak and ending at Bang Sue station. Wang Lang PierMarket âç¾ÂÒºÒÅÈÔÃÔÃÒª ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇѧËÅѧ » ÂÁËÒÃÒª¡ÒÃس 6 Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asok—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng—MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, 4 or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For 1 more information, go to3 www.bts.co.th and www. Athit Pier bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that thePhra ·‹ÒBTS ¾ÃÐÍҷԵ and MRT use different ticketing systems. Wat Chana Songkram ÇÑ´ª¹Ðʧ¤ÃÒÁ
TAXIS—In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for thePolice first two kilometers. Despite their Station ʶҹյÓÃǨ many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. Democracy Monument ͹ØÊÒÇÃÕ »ÃЪҸԻäµÂ
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7 2013 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 31 june
Wat Saket ÇÑ´ÊÃÐࡵØ
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7
8
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Jim Thompson
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Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ã㵌
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tralia 02-2514-173, Austria 02-287-3970, Belgium 02-679-5465, Brazil 02-679-8567, Bulgaria 02-3916180, Cambodia 02-636-0540, China 02-245-7043, ATMS—ATMs are very common in Bangkok and Czech Republic 02-255-3027, Denmark 02-213Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์ can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located 2021, Egypt 02-262-0236, Finland 02-256-9306, outside of 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able France 02-266-8250, Ghana 02-641-5214, Germany to use overseas cards to withdraw money. Chong Nonsi 02-287-9000, Greece 02-679-1462, ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ Iceland 025 4 237-8010, India 02-258-0300, Indonesia 02-2522 City Viva 4 3135, Iran 02-259-0611, Ireland 02-223-0876, Israel Dining 1. Supatra Riverside P26 02-204-9200, Italy 02-252-6151, Korea (South) St. Louis Hospital 2. Sala Rattanakosin Q23 âç¾ÂÒºÒÅૹµ ËÅØÂÊ 02-247-7537, Laos 02-539-6667, Malaysia 02-679Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ 2190, Mexico 02-285-0815, Morocco 02-653-2444, Health & Wellness 3 3 1. Wat Po Q24 Myanmar 02-233-2237,Pan Nepal 02-391-7240, NethRd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹ 7 erlands 02-254-7701, Norway 02-302-6415, New Art & Attractions Surasak ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ 1. Grand Palace/Museum of Textiles Q25 Zealand 02-254-2530, Nigeria 02-391-5197, Pakistan Soi Silom 1 9 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 2. Museum Siam2 Q23 02-253-0288, Peru 02-260-6243, Philippines 5 3. National Gallery Q27 02-259-0139, Portugal 02-234-7435, Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØRussia Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢ ÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ 024. National Museum Q27 2 268-1169, Saudi Arabia 02-639-2999, Switzerland 5. Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall S26 6. Royal Barge Museum P27 02-253-0156, Singapore 02-286-2111, Spain 02-2527. The Queen’s Gallery S27 6112, Sri-Lanka 02-331-6384, Sweden 02-302-0360, Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔ Þ¡Ãا Saphan Taksin 8. Wat Arun (Temple 5 ÊоҹµÒ¡ÊÔ ¹ of Dawn) P22 Taiwan 02-670-0220, Tunisia 02-692-5071, Turkey 9. Wat Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald 7 02-274-7262, United Arab Emirates 02-639-9820, Buddha) Q25 4 OP Place Oriental Pier United Kingdom 02-305-8333, United States of Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕ¹àµÅ Nightlife ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã America 02-205-4000, Syria 02-254-7961, Vietnam 1. Babble & Rum Q27 TO TALAT PHLU STATION 02-251-5838.
Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ
Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63
getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo 8 opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a G price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.
Soi Convent «Í¤͹áǹµ major EMBASSIES & CONSULATES—Argentina 02-259-0401, Aus4 ¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ
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5. Romrawin M19 6. S Medical Spa L20 1. Le Beaulieu N21 7. Spa@Tonson M20 2. Elements M20 3. Erawan Tea Room N18 8. Siam Swan M16 9. Thann Sanctuary 4. Gaggan O19 5. Gianni Ristorante N19 Spa M18 6. Grossi Trattoria M19 7. Jim Thompson Restau- Shopping 1. Amarin Plaza M18 rant & Bar L15 2. Central Chidlom M19 8. Kisara N21 3. CentralWorld M18 9. Magnum Cafe M16 4. Erawan Bangkok M18 10. Mandopop N20 5. Gaysorn M18 11. Medici N19 6. MBK Center M16 12. La Monita Taqueria 7. Pantip Plaza K17 M21 8. Platinum Mall K18 13. Reflexions N21 9. Siam Center/Siam 14. Shintori M18 Discovery M16 15. Shintaro N18 10. Siam Paragon M17 16. Sra Bua L17 17. Ying Yang M18 Art & Attractions 18. Zense M18 1. 100 Tonson Gallery 19. Zuma N18 N20
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2. Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) M16 3. Jim Thompson Art Center & House L1 5 4. Madame Tussauds M16 5. Siam Ocean World M17 6. Sombat Permpoon Gallery L21
vat refunds—Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers to get your form stamped. After check-in and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts not exceeding B30,000, will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refund amounts exceeding B30,000, will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Hospitals—Bumrungrad International, (Sukhumvit Soi 1-3, 02-667-1000, emergency 02-667-2999), Bangkok Hospital (Soi Soonvijai, Petchaburi Rd., 02-310-3000), BNH Hospital (Convent Rd., 02-686-2700), Samitivej Sukhumvit (Sukhumvit 49, 02-711-8181), Siriraj SiPH (Phrannok Rd., 1474).
Essential Numbers Emergency Services (Fire Brigade, Police) 191 Airport Rail Link 02-308-5600. http://airportraillink.railway.co.th Bangkok Taxi Call Center 1681 / 1661 Bangkok Mass Transit System (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th BTS Tourist Information Center : 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th Bangkok Metro (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6ammidnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th Chao Phraya Express Boat Call Center 02-6236001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com Suvanbhumi International Airport 1722/02-1321888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) – 1672. www.tourismthailand.org Tourist Police 24-hour call center 1155
june 2013 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 33
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21 Things we LOve about Thailand
3
1
8 1 Watching the locals going through their early morning workouts in Lumphini Park, in the heart of downtown Bangkok. 2 Snorkeling in the crystal clear waters off the beaches of the Andaman island of Koh Kradan in Trang, south of Krabi. 3 Sipping a cup of tea while enjoying the rich history and five-star service at The Mandarin Oriental’s Author’s Lounge (Oriental Pier). 4 Learning how to cook Thai food from old-school recipes at the beautiful Blue Elephant Cooking School (www.blueelephant.com). 5 Browsing the quirky stalls filled with authentic retro items at Talat Rod Fai night market (MRT Kamphaeng Phet).
4
!8
!7 7 Laying back on crisp white sheets to enjoy the inventive food, and cutting-edge performances at Bed Supperclub (26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. BTS Nana).
!2 Gazing at the eerie beauty of Wat
!7 Discovering the Michelin-star-
Rong Khun (aka The White Temple), the work of Thai national artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, in Chiang Rai.
worthy, traditional Thai dishes of Chef David Thompson at Nahm (G/F, Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333).
!3 Admiring the work of established 8 Lodge in a classic, hundred-yearold beachside hotel, surrounded by colonial arts and architecture, at Centara Grand Hua Hin (www. centarahotelsresorts.com).
and emerging contemporary Thai and international artists at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BTS National Stadium, www.bacc.or.th).
!4 Playing 18 holes on the beautiful 9 Savoring the sunset with a cocktail championship-level golf course at the
!8 Learning the history of Thai silk and admiring the stunning dresses on display at Queen Sirikit Textile Museum at The Grand Palace.
!9 Getting a glimpse of what
Blue Canyon Country Club (www. bluecanyonclub.com) in Phuket.
Bangkok used to be like with a klong tour around the old canals (klongs) of Nonthaburi from Saphan Taksin Pier.
!5 Catching a free traditional Thai
@0 Checking out the cool stores,
traditional ambiance at Amphawa floating market.
puppet show at Bangkok’s Baan Silapin artist community (02-8685279, thaipuppeteer@gmail.com).
restaurants and bars, and the new Sky Ferris wheel, at the retro-inspired, open-air riverside mall Asiatique the Riverfront (www.thaiasiatique.com).
!1 Browsing for the finest Thai silks
!6 Rummaging for everything from
at the various silk stores in Bangkok. Try Almeta Silk (Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-204-1413, www.almeta.com).
edgy fashions to teakwood furniture at the world’s largest weekend market, Chatuchak (JJ) Market (MRT Kamphaeng Phet).
in hand at Octave on the rooftop of the new Marriott Sukhumvit near Thonglor.
!0 Experiencing the fireflies and
6 Staying overnight at one of the houseboat rafts on Cheow Larn Lake in the stunning Kao Sok National Park.
@1 Going food stall-hopping, trying everything from authentic Chinese snacks to fresh seafood on Bangkok’s Yaowarat Road (China Town).
where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Hong Kong, Singapore
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34 W H E R E th a iland I june 2013
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