Where® Thailand January 2014 by Where Thailand

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New Year in ChinaTown The best of Bangkok’s Yaowarat district

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contents where

l THAILAND l JANUARY 2014

The Guide Bangkok 21 dining Exciting restaurants and where to enjoy the best dim sum for Chinese New Year

24 arts+attractions A modern gallery and a guided tour to the riverside district of Wang Lang

Chinese Flavors Where to go in Yaowarat

26 nightlife Magical potions with a Thai touch are on offer at the city's newest bar

Around ThaIland 08 A Royal Valley The organic delights of Doi Angkhang

27 Health+Wellness A new green spa in the heart of the city

28 SHOPS+Services Two hip pop-up stores appear at Siam Center and Bangkok's best community malls

news

30 Maps

10 Bangkok Buzz Riverside openings, classical concerts and more

Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin

12 Andaman Arrivals New hotels in Phuket and a new mall in Hat Yai 14 Upcountry News Football, flower festivals and rural retreats

Sales Manager Sherry Maturose Kato

Editor Wachiraporn Janrut

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

Managing Editor Grégoire Glachant Sub-editor Carl Dixon Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapon Contributors Monruedee Jansuttipan, Manisha Kalra

Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant

35 21 things we love

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

Mvp | National Sales Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com

Mvp | Cartography And Circulation General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Cover By Panita Thiraphapon

Morris Comunications Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

30 navigate

16 Gulf of Thailand Where to celebrate Chinese New Year in Pattaya

Managing Editor/Publisher Nick Measures

General Manager James Fuss

also inside

www.wherethailand.com

Mvp | Creative Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

Mvp | Technology & Manufacturing Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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where Feature

Exploring Yaowarat The best of Bangkok’s Chinatown. By Wachiraporn Janrut. Photos by Panita Thiraphapong

ODIENT GATE INTERSECTION

ith a large Chinese population, Thailand celebrates the arrival of Chinese New Year with parades, firecrackers and shows. As we get ready to welcome in the Year of the Horse (January 31-February 2), we head to the heart of Yaowarat, Bangkok’s vibrant and exciting Chinatown, to discover the area’s major attractions, restaurants, food stalls and hotels. Most of the main attractions are spread along, or close to the winding Yaowarat Road that runs through the center of the city. The road is said to look similar to a dragon’s body, making it an auspicious location for businesses, which has attracted numerous gold shops, tea rooms and traditional apothecaries all offering a glimpse into Thai-Chinese culture. Celebrating the year of the horse In Bangkok, the main celebrations will take place in Yaowarat, and will be presided over by Her Royal Highness Princess Sirindhorn. From noon until midnight on January 31 and February 1 Yaowarat Road, from Odient Gate to Lampoonchai intersection, will be turned into a walking street with numerous street stalls selling Chinese food and drinks along with cultural performances.

Attractions Wat Traimitr Wittayaram

Wat Mangkon Kamalawat

The starting point for your visit should be Wat Traimitr Withayaram, which sits on Odient Gate intersection, a short walk from MRT Hua Lamphong Station. The marble white temple is home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, the three-meter, five-ton Sukhothai style Phra Buddha Maha Suwanna Patimakorn enshrined on the top floor. The temple grounds are also home to the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre, which is on the second floor and offers an insight into the neighborhood and a history of the early Chinese immigrants to Bangkok. The eight-minute multimedia presentation (available in English) runs every hour from 9am to 4pm. There are six exhibition zones which trace the history of the Chinese immigrants from the early Rattanakosin period, explore the community’s development and reveal the relationship between the Thai royals and the local Chinese. They also offer interactive guides of where to eat and what to do in the area. The last zone is the souvenir shop selling Chinese lucky charms from B50 to B300. Entry fee B100.

Built way back in the reign of King Rama V in 1871, this temple, whose name means dragon lotus, was the first and remains one of the most important Chinese temples in Bangkok, especially during Chinese New Year and the annual vegetarian festival (held in September or October). The temple complex actually contains Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian shrines representing the broad mix of religious heritage that can be found in Chinatown and the place is usually bustling with locals lighting incense and making offerings to their ancestors.

661 Charoen Krung Road, Samphanthawong District, open Tues-Sun 8am-5pm

Hospital: open Mon-Sat, 9am – 3pm, Shrine: open 5.30am10pm

Mangkorn Road, 02-222-3975, open daily 6am-6pm

Thian Fah Foundation Hospital The historic Chinese medicine hospital was founded over 100 years ago by five Chinese families to help treat the neighborhood’s underprivileged citizens for free. Visitors can make merit by donating to the foundation and visiting the Chinese shrine to pray to the sacred wood statue of the Goddess of Mercy (Chao Mae Kuan Im) for good health and prosperity.

samsara

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wat mangkon kamalawat

Wat Chakrawat

Lor Yaowaraj

Formerly called Wat Samplum, the old temple was renovated and renamed in the reign of King Rama III (1824-1809), though it is also known as the crocodile temple. This is because of the real-life reptiles occupying the two ponds in the compound, separated by a giant stuffed crocodile who also used to live here. It’s believed the temple first started keeping the creatures after a crocodile was found in the Chao Phraya River. The compound, which consists of buildings in many styles, includes a pavilion containing a miniature of Buddha’s footprint.

This quirky grocery store has actually been operating on this site for over 70 years selling imported Chinese and Vietnamese food at wholesales prices. Yet, despite its age it now has an achingly hip retro vibe thanks to a complete renovation by the family’s third generation owner, Pardprada Gunyaviriya. The chaotic traditional wholesaler has been transformed into a stylish store with black walls, green lamps, and a clean layout, offering over 5,000 products, many of which make great presents to take back home. Open daily from 8am – midnight. 02-886-2376

South of Sampheng Market, near Ratchawongse Pier

lor yaowaraj

Drinks Samsara

Shopping Sampeng Market

Samsara is a riverside restaurant tucked down a little alley behind Wat Pathumkongka. Set in one of those The oldest and biggest wholesale charming wooden houses you pass as market in Bangkok, this area sampeng market you ride the express boat along the river, became a major trading center for the restaurant offers a nice and relaxing Chinese immigrants after they were ambience suitable for both dinner and relocated here during the reign of King Rama drinks. With a vibe that’s halfway between a I (1737-1809). These days it’s a real warren of gallery and a friend’s house, it’s brimming with small alleys and narrow lanes winding off from personality: expect to find colorful vintage the main artery, Sampeng Lane, which is packed furnishings and all sorts of cat-related curios with wholesale treats. You really can find and paintings hanging on the wall. Most anything here, from fresh fruit and children’s of the tables are set out on the terrace and toys to Chinese medicine and clothes. It’s hot, reservations are a must for those with the best sweaty and crowded but offers great bargains views. The tasty Thai cuisine is augmented by and even better photo opportunities. Japanese touches. Near So Wanit 1, Open daily 2am-5pm

1612 Songwat Road, Open Tue-Thu 4pm-midnight, Fri-Sat 4pm-1am, closed Mon

wat traimitr wittayaram

Y Where to stay:

Shanghai Mansion

Centra Central Station

Loy Lalong

Designed after a home in 1930s Shanghai, the striking property was built in 1982 and has operated as a boutique hotel since 2006. It offers five room types, all with their own character, antique furnishings, and vibrant silks. The beautiful Peony classic room has a gorgeous bathtub, a king size bed, a spacious living area and even a garden complete with Chinese daybed. B4,100 for the 46-sq-meter Peony classic room, and B5,100 for a 54-sqmeter family suite. 479-481 Yaowaraj Road, 02-221-2121, www.shanghaimansion.com

Officially opened in October 2013, this hotel is handily situated just five minutes from the main railway station and the MRT and a 10-minute walk to Chinatown. Designed in a light and modern style, the hotel consists of 150 rooms. Prices start at B3,295 for a 27-sq-meter superior room and B4,825 for a 64-sq-meter suite. While on holiday, consider treating yourself to a relaxing 75-minute Cense Signature Massage (B850) at Cense by Spa Cenvaree on the 14th floor of the hotel. 02-344-1699 www.centarahotelsresorts.com

This small charming boutique guesthouse is set in an old style Thai house by the Chao Phraya River. Consisting of seven rooms, the vintage wooden furnishings, antique bathtubs and washstands, transport you back in time. Prices during the peak season (from December to January) start from B2,600 for a 14-sq-meter room upstairs and B4,400 for a 30-sq-meter room on the ground floor with a large window overlooking the river. 1620/2 Song Wat Road (inside Pathumkongka Rachaworawiharn temple), www.loylalong.com

samsara

loy lalong

shanghai mansion

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where Feature Eiah-Sae Hidden in Padsai street not too far from the main Yaowarat Road, Eiah-Sae is a small Chinese coffee shop with real authentic character. Run by the Thongvisirakul family for over 85 years, Eiah-Sae made its name from its coffee beans roasted and blended using its own secret techniques. It remains the spot for local Thai-Chinese gatherings, evident in the large number of elderly regulars (mostly men) who come to chat and do business over coffee. The setting is rather retro Chinese, with simple wooden chairs and some old paintings on the wall. The shop is open for breakfast at 4am, serving soft-boiled eggs (B20) and toast (B25-30) with coffee. It also offers traditional drinks such as nor kao, which is a mix of tea and coffee and heng yim which is an almond-flavored drink. Be warned the cold drinks are very sweet but the atmosphere is definitely unique.

double dogs tea room

spoon: it’s complicated and takes a bit of time but it does also ensure you get an amazing taste. Seats are limited. Yaowarat Soi 6. Open Wed-Mon, 7pm-1am

Jae Aun Bua Loy Nam Khing

Bua loy nam khing (dumplings with ginger tea) is a must-try Chinese dessert when you are in Chinatown. Running for 101-103 Yaowarat-Padsai Rd., over 20 years, Jae Aun is one of Yaowarat, 02-221-0549. Open daily the best places to sample them. 4am-8pm The top seller is the sesame dumplings which you can Double Dogs Tea Room choose to pair with either ginger Situated in a shophouse on the tea or sweetened milk (B30). main Yaowarat Road, the décor There are also taro dumplings aun bua loy of Double Dogs sets it apart from Jaenam (B40) and tofu pudding (B15). khing the neighbors. Decorated with We recommend the assorted Chinese style wooden tables, chairs and tea dumplings (B50), which lets you try both accessories, the smart café is a great spot the sesame and taro dumplings in one go. to take a break and enjoy the air- con with Yaowarat Road, 081-860-1053, 081-612-5700. Open Tue-Sun 7-11pm a cup of tea. Choose from more than 40 different types of tea from China and Japan, with the owner happy to help you choose Seafood Soi Texas depending on your character and mood. At the beginning of Soi Phadung Dao, locally Chinese teas are priced at B80-B240 a pot known as Soi Texas, there are two popular and matcha powder tea is B130. There are seafood places facing each other across the two Chinese baked tea cake sets available street. T&K Seafood has its staff wearing at B95 and B160 which let you enjoy snacks green outfits while R&L Seafood is the such as peanut roll, sesame fritter, and one with its staff wearing red outfits. We almond biscuit with your tea. have tried both and their taste, freshness

406 Yaowarat Rd., 086-329-3075. Open Tue-Sun 11am-10pm

dining Guay Tiew Kua Gai Hidden in a tiny alley, the shop is run by a grumpy old couple who have been serving up guay tiew kua gai (fried noodles with chicken) for decades. Every dish is cooked in a small brass wok, using a fork and

pa jin cockle soi texas

eiah-sae

pa jin cockle soi texas

jae aun bua loy nam khing

of seafood ingredients and prices are not much different. You can enjoy ample grilled prawns, crabs and scallops and end up paying less than B1,000 for two people. Our recommendations are steamed sea bass in lime juice (B350) and spicy tom yum kung (B150) at T&K restaurant. And amberjack in pandanus leaf (B250) and spicy seafood tom yum soup (B150) at R&L. Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Road. Open daily, 6pm – 1am

seafood soi texas

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Feature where Y Pa Jin Cockle Soi Texas If it’s just a beer and some seafood snacks you are after then this is the place. Located in the middle of Soi Texas, Pa Jin has been running her stall, which sells soft boiled cockles and mussels for over 35 years. She reveals that the secret is the freshness of her shellfish which are from a farm in Petchaburi province. The real highlight, though, is the three different sauces. The spicy and sour seafood sauce is popular among Thais, while you might find the ancient style sweet and sour “mix sauce” with crushed peanuts easier to handle. Finally, the sweet sauce with crushed peanuts is available for wimps and children. Priced at B100, a dish is good for two to share. Singha, Heineken and Leo beers are available at B80-120. Soi Phadungdao, Yaowarat Road. Open daily MonSat 6.30pm–1am, Sun 5pm–1am. 081-795-1839

cockle soi texas

Hua Seng Hong Set right on Yaowarat Road with roast ducks, fresh crabs and king prawns hanging out front, Hua Seng Hong is a long-term favorite due to its consistency and variety—a fact backed up by their 13 branches in malls throughout Bangkok. Its Thai dishes are authentic enough but it really specializes in traditional Chinese treats such as braised goosefeet in a clay pot. Other best sellers include roast duck (B200-640), steamed crab with grass noodles and stir fried crab with yellow curry powder (B900-1,050). The seafood here is fresh, the crab is wonderfully meaty and do try some of their dim sum, too. 371-373 Yaowarat Rd., 02-222-7053. Open daily 9am-1am. www.huasenghong.co.th

hua seng hong

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where Feature Look-out at Angkhang Military Base

khao soi Yunnan MYANMAR

The Royal Valley

nor lae village

VIETNAM

Chiang Mai

Bangkok

ANDAMAN SEA

GULF OF SIAM

Seasonal blooms and a real cool breeze make Doi Angkhang a welcome winter break. By Monruedee Jansuttipan Where to stay • Angkhang Station Guesthouse. Accommodation is offered on-site at the station for two to five people per room. Rates during winter are B1,500-B5,500 per night. 053450-107/9, www. angkhangstation. com • Angkhang Nature Resort. Owned by the Royal Project Foundation but run by Onyx Hospitality Group, the resort is sat in front of the station. As the weather gets pretty cold in the winter, the hotel is equipped with electric blankets. Rates start from B3,000 for a mountain view room and B3,500 for a garden view. 053450-110, http://bit. ly/16nQ6MH

oi Angkhang is best known as the place where HM the King’s Royal Projects began, in a bid to rid the Northern hills of opium fields. Some 30 years later, the valley is a lush green, replete with popular attractions like beautiful gardens and fruit plantations. Here’s what’s making present-day Doi Angkhang more than just a retreat from the heat.

Farm Route

where you will be amazed by the colorful vegetables grown in a big In Bangkok, you’ll regularly hear open-air greenhouse. For flower about food sourced from various lovers, too, this is a paradise. There Royal Projects but Ang Khang Royal are many flower gardens inside the Agricultural Station is where it actually station, which are a sight to behold, first started. On the 2.2-kilometer especially in winter, such as the ring road around the station, you can English Rose Garden and the Bonsai hop out and visit plantations Garden. The most fascinating is where they grow various probably the outdoor Eighty kinds of cool weather Garden, situated in front of fruits such as pears, the Angkhang Club, while peaches, strawberries, the Flower Green House persimmon, is another can’t-miss for its pomegranate and botanical wonders. When the blueberries. One you afternoon arrives, a visit to the can’t miss is the Japanese vegetable Tea Storage Site is a good choice plantation apricot plot, which has as tea is another popular product been used as the setting grown here. You can walk around or opt for many romantic scenes in Thai to ride one of the mules that the station movies and soap operas. Here, apricot offers during winter—contact the trees dot the lush green carpet-like station in advance at 053-450-107/9, field. Opposite is the equally enticing www.angkhangstation.com. vegetable demonstration plantation

LAOS

Angkhang

SOUTH CHINA SE

Sunrise Route

MALAYSIA

Chasing the sun is a popular activity in the hills of the North.INDONESIA There are many spots to catch the sunrise, the easiest to reach being at the Angkhang Military Base, on the way to Nor Lae village. Choose from the wooden terrace at the military compound or the small hill at the campsite. After watching the sun come up, you might want to stretch your legs on the 30-minute Nor Lae trekking trial which offers great views of the mountains over in Myanmar. Another great way to welcome the morning is by paying a visit to the strawberry fields and tea fields of the 2000 Plantation—nothing like a view of a misty mountainside to start the day. You can also spot gulab panpee (rhododendron) some 4.5 kilometers from the station. The best time to see the flowers here is DecemberFebruary when the fresh blooms go all the way up to the summit, called Nern Pankao, the highest hill in Angkhang at 1,928 meters. Afterwards, in March, you’ll find lots of fireflies around the station, too.

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village

VIETNAM

SOUTH CHINA SEA

Food Route

There are three main villages where There’s plenty of good food to be you can get a glimpse of the local hill found inside the Royal Agricultural tribe culture, the most popular being Station. Head to Angkhang Club Nor Lae village. The villagers belong for dishes ranging from hill tribe to the Palong or Dara-ang tribes and specialties to produce from the are the main people responsible for royal projects. Their kha moo growing the produce at Ang Khang with man tou (braised pork with station. Sat on the hill fried Chinese bun, B100) is above the village is particularly moreish, as is the Nor Lae military base nam prik Angkhang (chilli Chiang Mai where you can enjoy paste, B80), made with the another panoramic hill tribes’ fermented soy view of those bean paste recipe. Other Fried Chinese bun at Angkhang Club THAILAND mountains. Another dining options require a bit can’t-miss is Khob of exercise, but if you head Bangkok tea fields Dong village, home to to Ban Luang Village you can Rayong the Mu Ser Dam tribe try the tasty khao soi (curry who live in bamboo houses dotting noodle) made in the Yunnan style the hill. The slightly more developed at Ali (053-969-431, 081-022Samui Ban Luang village, meanwhile, is 6570). Their salapao (stuffed a Yunnan village where a lot of Phang Nga Chinese bun) with black bean is a Chinese migrated during WWII. Phuket great dessert option, too.

How to get there • By Car From Chiang Mai, take Highway No.107 passing Chiang Dao district until you reach Fang district then turn left onto Road No.1249 for the station. • By Bus Vans and buses travel to the entrance of Doi Angkhang from Chang Puak Gate in Chiang Mai. There is a small bus that runs from the entrance to the station.

apricot plot

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where news

ocean gastro tapas bar

Capital

sheepshank

Urban Retreat

Affairs

Grand openings, hot promotions and special events in Bangkok

Riverside Dining

ocean gastro tapas bar

Legendary Lives

The folks behind the popular Bangkok Asiatique (2194 Charoenkrung Soi 76, restaurant Seven Spoons (24 Chakkaphatdi 02-108-4488), the popular riverside mall, Phong Rd., 02-629-9214) have just has just announced an exciting new stage opened Sheepshank. This new restaurant show, which will join the existing Calypso is designed to resemble a cabaret. The fresh action will come at the sophisticated boat house new theater, The Stage in the form of where you can sit back and a fast-paced muay Thai live show, enjoy views of the river The Legend Lives, on stage at and Rama 8 Bridge while 8pm daily from January 15. experiencing dishes like Created and directed by Ekachai the classic meatballs with Uekrongtham, the artistic director spiced local fruit jam, crab of Action Theatre in Singapore and green apple salad with and director of films like Beautiful the legend Dijon mustard dressing and the Boxer and Pleasure Factory, the stage lives seafood paella with Spanish show features more than just Thai kick saffron. They also serve a decent selection boxing with plenty of swashbuckling action of wines, too. 47/1 Phra Athit Rd., next to and a sprinkling of romance. Tickets are B1,200-2,000 for adults and B500 for kids. Phra Artit Pier. 02-629-5165 Details at www.muaythailive.net or www. thaiticketmajor.com

Another hip spot for dinner and drinks has just popped up on Sukhumvit Soi 33, just a short walk from BTS Phrom Phong. With a beach-club-cum resort atmosphere, Ocean Urban Lounge and Boutique Resort offers eight guest rooms, one restaurant and a bar. The laidback Ocean Gastro Tapas bar serves up Mediterranean and Asian fusion courtesy of Chef Jacobo Astray who spent three years working at the legendary El Bulli in Spain. On the club side, the bar offers cocktails from mixologist Joseph Boroski and lets you choose between indoor and poolside seating with plans to expand to the basement floor soon, too. A real highlight is the intriguing daily promotions, including Thursday Ladiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Night, which offers free-flow sangria from 6-8pm and a complimentary manicure-pedicure by the pool, and the Sunday BBQ from 1-4pm. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 33. 02-261-2800. www. oceanbangkok.com

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news where Y Music in the Park

A Culinary Tale

The Bangkok Symphony Orchestra Eat Sight Story (45/1 Maharat Rd., continues its much-loved winter season 02-622-2163), is yet another new of Concertâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in the Park, which sees riverside venue which is owned by the them playing popular favorites with boutique hotel Sala Arun. Offering different guest vocalists every Sunday an uninterrupted view of Wat Arun at the adorable Sala Bhirom Bhakdi the place is adorable, with its walls pavilion in Lumphini Park. Expect decorated with old wooden everything from Thai and doors and a decor that Western classical music to combines a mixture of popular Broadway scores, Asian and European knick and get there early to choose knacks. Similarly, the a good picnic spot. Do note kitchen serves up fusion alcohol is not officially allowed dishes like nuea kraprao in parks so you might want to krob (stir-fried tenderloin get creative with how you pack concert in the with holy basil and pepper) park your picnic. Every Sunday, through and pizza kraprao moo (pizza February 9 from 5:30pm. Sala with stir-fried pork with holy Bhirom Bhakdi, Lumphini Park. MRT basil toppings), while cocktails are pretty Lumphini. reasonably priced.

Hidden Gem: Bangkokian Museum The former home of the Suravadee family, this tricky-to-find museum has been open to the public for a while, but has only recently been taken over by the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration. Made up of four wooden houses built in 1937, the museum offers a fascinating insight into the lifestyle of an upper-class Bangkokian family since the World War II period. Featuring elegant furniture and ornaments from the early Rattanakosin era and the reign of King Rama V the different buildings are a charming space to spend a few hours and enjoy the river breeze in the well-kept gardens. The museum is located down a small soi near the intersection of Silom Road and Charoenkrung Road close to the Shangri-La Hotel. Free admission. Charoenkrung 43 Road, open Wed-Sun 10am 4pm. 02-233-7027

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where news

island post What’s happening in Phuket and around the Andaman coast

Phuket

Chinese New Year Celebrations

Phuket

anantara phuket layan resort & Spa

PHUKET

Trang

Private Phuket For those looking for a peaceful holiday in Phuket, Kata Beach is a family-friendly destination with restaurants, spas, shops, and fashion stores, as well as opportunities for scuba diving and surfing. Taking privacy to new levels, five-star boutique resort Kata Rocks (www.katarocks.com) consists of just 34 secluded oceanfront pool villas. Set on a hillside overlooking the Andaman Sea, each villa is equipped with its own infinity pool, spacious living area, and an iPad, which can be used to control everything in the room. Prices start from B29,000 per night for a 134-sq-meter one-bedroom villa and B44,000 per night for a 460-sq-meter four-bedroom villa. Through March 2014, it’s offering a 20% discount on rack rates plus complimentary airport transfers.

New Year, New Hotel This month sees yet another luxury resort open in Phuket. The Anantara Phuket Layan Resort & Spa (phuket-layan.anantara.com) is set on the serene Layan Beach at the far end of Bang Tao Bay, just 20 minutes’ drive from Phuket International Airport, 35 minutes’

Beyond the beaches, Phuket also boasts a charming old town district that is heavy with Chinese influences and architecture. In fact, Phuket has the largest Chinese population in Thailand, with many Hokkien Chinese families migrating here during the reign of King Rama IV (1804-1868). These immigrants integrated with the local population to create a distinctive Baba culture, which still retains much of their original Chinese traditions and makes the celebrations here very special. This year the main events will take place after the official New Year on February 7-9, with an ‘ancient town’ theme where locals are encouraged to wear vintage outfits and head out onto streets specially closed for a massive party, featuring parades, dragon dances, food stalls and lots of fireworks. For details, call 076-214-306.

kata rocks

from the city centre and walking distance to bars and shops. With a contemporary Asian design, the resort offers nine room types ranging from a 56-sq-meter premier room to a spacious 485-sq-meter two-bedroom villa with direct beach access. Every room comes with modern comforts including an iPod docking station, an Apple TV, a custom stocked wine cabinet, and a Nespresso machine. The 47 private pool villas are discreet yet offer 24-hour service. There’s a kids club, gym, communal pool and a branch of the well-respected Anantara spas on site. Rates start from B7,500 for a premier room. Details at www.anantara.com/specialpackages.aspx

Trang also has a large Chinese community particularly around the mouth of the Trang River, where many Chinese merchants moved from Penang to do business around two hundred years ago. On January 29-30, the Trang municipality will hold a grand Chinese New Year’s celebration in front of its head office featuring a ceremony to welcome Cai Shen, the god of wealth and fortune, colorful Chinese cultural performances and various food stalls. Details 075-218-017 #1164 or www. tourismthailand.org. SONGKLA

Shopping Feast Thailand’s southern business hub of Hatyai just welcomed the opening of the largest shopping complex in the south, CentralFestival Hatyai (www.cpn.co.th). Located on a 50-rai plot of land and featuring a quirky crystalline form, the new shopping mall opened its doors to shoppers last December. The B7 billion mall includes a Central Department Store, supermarket and over 250 international and local brands, as well as 60 restaurants and cafés, an ice skating rink, a nine screen cinema and an IMAX 3D cinema.

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where

the guide

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where news

amari buriram

Upcountry news New hotels, special deals and events from Chiang Mai and beyond.

dasada gallery

PHAYAO

Countryside Retreat

umbrella & handicrafts festival

BURIRAM

Fantasy Football

Boutique Hospitality Management Asia The Northeast province of Buriram is has recently added Away Chiang Kham not just famous for its Phanomrung Villa (www.awayresorts.com) in Phayao historical park, but also its all-conquering football team and current Thai League province to its Away Resorts family. Champions, Buriram United. And here’s Situated 40 minutes from central Phayao exciting news for football fans. Thailand’s among the rice fields with mountain views, first football-themed hotel, Amari the property consists of two Thai-style Buriram United (www.amari.com), just villas in natural surroundings. Each villa has three bedrooms over two opened its doors last month. The floors with a total space of 60-room property is designed 450-sq-meters. It is a place by the same architects as where you can relax in the the adjacent Thunder Castle countryside while enjoying Stadium. Not only that, it’s luxurious comfort. There’s designed to resemble a also plenty to keep you football stadium, with most busy, including a swimming rooms facing a central area, pool, private putting green, which is a mini football field and away chiang kham four tennis courts with in-house swimming pool. Bathrooms are tennis pro Mr. Rico Fowler, and designed as footballers’ changing an outdoor garden steam room. You can rooms. Even the restaurant boasts also get out on a bike and explore the local bench-style seating, while there’s also neighborhood. The resort is one and a half a bar and a gymnasium. There are three hours’ drive to the famous Wat Rong Khun room types, ranging from a 34-sq-meter in Chiang Rai. Prices are B9,800 for the superior room to a 114-sq-meter suite. Garden Villa and B12,500 for the Pool Villa.

away chiang kham Villa

MYANMAR

VIETNAM LAOS Phayao Chiang Mai

Loei Saraburi

Prachinburi

Buriram

Bangkok

ANDAMAN SEA

GULF OF SIAM

SOUTH CHINA SEA MALAYSIA

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news where Y PRACHINBURI

CHIANG MAI

Seasonal Bloom

Colourful Culture

Here’s a charming cultural event in Set on an 800-rai plot of land in Chiang Mai well worth a visit. Famous Prachinburi province near Khao Yai, the for handmade umbrellas and handicrafts, ninth flower festival at Dasada Gallery every year the villages of Bo Sang and (www.dasada-happiness.com) runs San Kamphaeng on the outskirts of the through March 2. Here, you’ll find a city hold a three-day festival on wide range of floral species in the third weekend of January. an exhibition that explores This year’s Umbrella & the relationship between Handicrafts Festival will various genres of music be held on January 17-19, and flowers. Besides the and feature umbrellabeautiful flowers, there are making demonstrations, art pieces at the Hanging contests, exhibitions, cultural Flower Glasshouse, along performances, and beauty with Western food, games Umbrella Festival pageants. On January 18-19 there and street performances plus will also be a walking street fair free concerts by leading Thai decorated with traditional lanterns and artists. Open from 9am to 7pm. For colourful Lanna-style umbrellas and a accommodation, check out Dasada’s The parade with people in local outfits. For Flower Es’Senses Resort set amidst the updates call 053-338-048. beautiful surroundings.

Flora Festival Where: Chiang Mai The highlight of the flower season, this will be the fourth staging of the Flora Festival at Royal Park Rajapruek. Under the theme “Color of the Plants,” the exhibitions include the newly renovated Hor Kham (main pavilion), a new orchid garden, giant and small vegetables, the biggest flower house in the Northern region, and the exhibition of King Tulip, a new hybrid tulip to honor the King. The food, too, is set to be even more exciting than before as they offer top organic dishes from the restaurants of the seven royal hills up north. This year, they’re also catering to those who don’t fancy walking in the brutal midday sun, accepting visitors through to 8pm, while you can travel around on covered trailers (B20), golf carts (B600 per hour) or bicycles (B20 per hour). Duration: Through Feb 28 Contact: Royal Park Rajapruek 053-114-110/5, www. royalparkrajapruek.org

NAM

SOUTH CHINA SEA

Phurua Marigold FieldS Where: Phurua, Loei The place with the coldest recorded temperatures in Thailand is Phurua, in Loei province, which is also famous for its golden fields of dow ruang or marigolds. There are two main fields you can visit, the first of which starts blooming in the middle of November, while the second blooms from midDecember to late January. Duration: Now until Jan 30 Contact: TAT Loei 042-811-405, 042-812-812.

ChIang Rai Dok Mai Ngam Where: Chiang Rai This smaller floral festival is situated right in the middle THAILAND of the city at Suan Tung and Khome Chalermprakiet. Bangkok Covering an 11-rai area, this 100-year-old prison-turnedpark houses various kinds of winter flowers, from colorful tulips to sweet-scented lilies. Apart from the flowers, Samui hundreds of Northern lanterns (khome) hanging from the trees Phang Nga create a romantic scene come nighttime. Also take some time Phuket to visit the beautiful old

CHIANG MAI

Northern Connection From January 7, AirAsia (www.airasia.com) will launch a daily direct flight between Chiang Mai and Hong Kong with prices starting from about B3,040.

Fly Lion Indonesian-based Lion Air joined with a Thai partner to launch the new low-cost airline, Thai Lion Air (www.lionairthai.com), aiming to compete in the low-cost carrier market in Thailand by offering “consistently low fares” all year round. The airline’s operations started in December with two daily flights between Bangkok’s Don Muang Airport and Chiang Mai and Bangkok to Kuala Lumpur and Jakarta. It is also set to receive a third aircraft in March, which would see it launch more services such as Bangkok–Singapore and Bangkok–Hatyai. Prices for flights from Bangkok to Chiang Mai start from B1,015.

buildings inside the compound, starting with the old wooden prison building that’s now home to an exhibition showcasing the costumes of 30 hill tribes in Northern Thailand. Duration: Through Jan 20 Contact: TAT Chiang Rai 053-717-433, 053-744-674/5. www.chiangraicity.go.th

Sunflower Festival

chiang mai

Where: Saraburi, Lopburi and Suphan Buri These popular fields of sunflowers near Bangkok bloom annually in December and January. Although the most famous fields are in Saraburi, the province with the most sunflowers is actually Lopburi, home to fields covering about 48,000 hectares. Suphan Buri, too, is another interesting option as it also has other flowers like orchids, supparod si (bromeliads), roses and tulips. Best of all you can find them all in one place: Suphan Buri Agricultural Extension and Development Center. Duration: Through Jan 31 Contact: Saraburi 036-319-026. Lopburi 036-770-096-7. TAT Suphan Buri 035-536-030. chiang rai

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where news

Gulf gossip The latest travel-related news from Hua Hin, Pattaya and Koh Samui

D Varee Diva Kiang haad beach

Anantara BOPHUT

HUA HIN

Royal Resort

Anantara bophut

PATTAYA

Tennis Aces

The popular royal beach resort of Hua Hin, Held every year since 1991, the WTA around three hours from Bangkok, has just professional women’s tennis tournawelcomed yet another hotel opening. The ment the PTT Pattaya Open continues colonial-Thai style D Varee Diva Kiang to attract the world’s best players and big Haad Beach is conveniently located in crowds of spectators. The 23rd edition the city centre opposite Hua Hin Market will take place at the Dusit Thani Hotel, Village, and boasts direct access to the Pattaya, on January 26–February 2. This beachfront area. Consisting of 74 year’s tournament will see an increased rooms, there are five room prize kitty of US$250,000 remodtypes ranging from a eled tennis courts and upgraded 24-sq-meter deluxe pool grandstands. Held at a beachview to a 56-sq-meter side location, the eight-day diva suite, as well as a tournament’s qualifying gym, striking infinity matches will take place on pool, restaurant and January 26-27, with the main cafe. The normal rates draw matches starting from are B1,999 for a deluxe January 27 and the final set to take room and B12,999 for a diva place on February 2 at 4pm. Details PTT Pattaya open suite. Details at www.dvaree. at www.pentanglepromotions.com or com or 032-521-222. call 02-311-3414-5. samahita retreat

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KOH SAMUI

Set on a quiet beach in the south of Koh Samui, Samahita Retreat is owned by yoga teacher Pal Dallaghan and is well known among yoga enthusiasts in Asia. The wellness retreat centre offers classic yoga lessons, teacher training courses, as well as weekly retreat and detox programs led by senior and guest teachers. For example on January 11-18, guest teacher Elonne Stockton, who has taught yoga all over the world will be leading a weekly Samahita Yoga Retreat Program. The program includes meditation, breath work, Yoga Asana, poses, movements and restorative practice, and workshops. Rates are about B43,845 per person for a private bedroom with shared bathrooms and B48,278 for a single superior room including full yoga program, accommodation with air-con, brunch and dinner buffets, and free Wi-Fi. Daily schedule and details at www.samahitaretreat.com.

Anantara has just reopened its AnanSituated south of Hua Hin and hugging tara Bophut Koh Samui Resort & Spa, the Gulf of Thailand, Chonburi saw large which sits on the less developed beach of numbers of Teochew Chinese move Bophut, originally the site of a tradito settle and do business here in tional Thai-Chinese fisherman’s the early Rattanakosin period village. It follows a B170 mil(1780-1800s). On January lion renovation, which has 30–February 1, the capital resulted in a greater choice of the province, Pattaya of rooms, upgraded public will hold a spectacular Chispaces and new event fanese New Year celebration cilities. The property offers with cultural performances, eight room types ranging magic shows, beauty pagfrom a 32-sq-meter room to eants, and Chinese dragon Chinese an 80-sq-meter beachfront pool dancing. For more details, visit new year’s suite featuring a 20-sq-meter www.tourismthailand.org or call celebrations private pool with sea view and di038-427-667. rect access to the beach. Rates start from B5,000 www.anantara.com

Cleansing Holiday

Bophut Bliss

Pattaya, Chonburi

Horse Party

samahita retreat

D Varee Diva Kiang Haad Beach

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ThewhereGuide january 2014 | Bangkok

Art

Concept Context Contestation: Art and the Collective in Southeast Asia Through 2 March In one of the biggest regional art exhibitions to be presented in Thailand, nearly 50 pieces by 40 artists from Southeast Asia take over the eighth floor of the Bangkok Art and Cultural Center. Featuring the work of internationally recognized Thai artists Manit Sriwanichpoom, Sutee Kunavichayanont and Vasan Sitthiket, alongside leading Singaporean, Filipino and Indonesian artists, the exhibition looks to compare and contrast how the similarities and differences between the different cultural and political environments have influenced and affected individual artistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; styles and outlooks. Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th

dining.........................................................21-23 arts+AnTIQUES..........................................24 attractions...............................................25

nightlife.........................................................26 health + wellness..................................27 shops + services.................................28-29

navigate........................................................ 30 maps.............................................................31-34

Note that the reference at the end of the listings (WS24, ZD3, etc.) applies to the coordinates on the individual maps on pages 33-36. Listings without coordinates indicate locations not within the maps.

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BANGKOK

dining

Le Du Restaurant Opening late last year Le Du looks like it might be one of the most intriguing recent openings in Bangkok. It’s powered by two young Thai chefs, Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn and Worathon “Tae” Udomchalotorn with degrees from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) who are looking to serve up Asian flavors with modern cooking techniques and mostly seasonal local produce. The cold charred leek soup with frozen parfait, for example, is jazzed up with sunflower seed and cowslip creepers (B160), while the wagyu beef comes with tao chiew (fermented tofu) puree, bitter melon and morning glory (B1,200). The wine list is equally exciting, with bottles sourced only from organic producers or boutique importers. Get it all (food and wine pairing) for B990 (four courses) or B1,590 (7 courses). 339/3 Silom Soi 7, 081562-6464. XG11

DOWNTOWN Bawarchi — Indian $$$ This is the flagship branch of a chain of four Indian restaurants that all look to serve up traditional Mughali cuisine like chicken tikka and tandoori lamb chops in a contemporary setting. B/F Intercontinental Hotel, 973 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-0102-3. Open daily 11am-midnight. www.bawarchiindian.com YM18

BLUE Elephant — Thai. $$$$ The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion, completed with a classic interior, where Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine. 233 South Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. BTS Surasak. Open daily 11:30am-02:30pm, 06:30–10:30pm. BTS Surasak. XI13

Y Pick Le Beaulieu — French. $$$$ Chef Herve Frerard corks up hearty, rustic options like baked morteau sausage served with a rich tomato lentil sauce and terrine de pot au feu alongside bistro classics like bouillabaisse and sole meunière. These simple dishes use high-quality ingredients imported direct from France or making the most of the chef’s involvement with the Royal Projects. G/F, Athénée Office Tower, 63 Wireless Rd., 02168-8220-3. www.le-beulieu.com YN21

1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 3pm-1am. XG11

Y Pick Gaggan — Indian. $$$$ After a brief

stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and some wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02-652-1700. BTS Chit Lom. 6pm-midnight. YO19

Ruen Urai — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house, decorated with a blend of contemporary furniture and rare Thai crafts, it offers a polished menu of solid Thai recipes. Rose Hotel, 118, Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. XG8

Y Pick Nahm — Thai. $$$$ Former holder

of a Michelin star, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-6253333. Open daily noon-2pm, 7-11pm. XG13

Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$

Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Area guide Downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods Lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 Upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

D’Sens — French. $$$$ The French-imported eatery by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers offers all the oomph one might expect. The dimly-lit dining room has a great view of Lumphini Park, and the food is bold and exciting. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10pm. XF10

Y Pick Eat Me — International. $$$$ The

décor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic. The kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection.

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dining Top 3 food courts

Siam center food republic

Siam Center Food Republic

Sra bua — Thai. $$$$ The sister of Michelinstarred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen offers Thai food with a molecular twist in a soaring, glittering palace dotted with lotus ponds. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. BTS Siam. Open daily noon-11pm. YL17

Y Pick SIMPLE — International. $$ This cute and

Lower Sukhumvit

Y Pick Bo.Lan — Thai. $$$$ Chefs Bo and Dylan

11 Gallery — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34, Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. ZB1

cosy Scandinavian-style place is part organicgrocers and part cafe-cum-restuarant. Sample the best produce sourced from local farmers in dishes like the club sandwich and risotto with spicy sausage. 235/5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, Open Tue-Sun 7am-8pm, 02-662-2510. ZB4 offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a charming house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes to reflect the seasons. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-2602962. Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pm-midnight. ZD5

Bacco — Italian. $$$ This relaxed, slightly rustic eatery packs in the diners nightly, thanks to its extensive menu of authentic regional specialities. 35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-662-4538. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pmmidnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-midnight. ZC6

One of the newest food courts in town offers chic signage, lighting and cool crowds. The atmosphere is the least food court-like on the list and really more like an active, if stylish market place. The food stations are just as fun and creative. The Hor Jia ThaiChinese food stall seems to be particularly popular, as you get to choose how you want your dish by picking from different ingredients. Otherwise, pull up a seat at the Xpress Teppanyaki with its live cooking station. 4/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. Open daily 10am-10pm.

Above Eleven — Fusion. $$$ The twist of this rooftop bar and restaurant, apart from a great city view, is a concept that focuses on Nikkei cuisine: a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. 32/F Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-9300. www.aboveeleven.com ZA1

Terminal 21 Food Court

Seven Seas Restaurant — Seafood/European. $$$ Offers a variety of tasty Thai, seafood and Western dishes in a cozy setting with a pleasant outdoor terrace. Recommended dishes include the tom yum soup and steamed Pomfret in soy and ginger. Sukhumvit Soi 4, 02-656-7881. Open daily. 12.30pm –1.30am. ZC1

Y Pick Maya — Indian. $$$ Housed in a striking

Upper Sukhumvit

L’Appart — French. $$$-$$$$ Imagine a grand Parisian apartment, which means parquet floors, rich burgundy wallpaper and lots of marble. The food is French cuisine with Thai touches. There’s also a full bar but a particular focus on Champagne cocktails. 32/F Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sois 13 and 15), 02-126-9999. Open daily 5pm-midnight. www.sofitel.com ZB2

Cheap bites and a whole lot of fun thanks to the faux buildings that imitate a San Fransico fishermen’s wharf. You get some scenic views of Bangkok, too, if you can grab a table at one end of the food stations. The prices here are also very low with the most popular stalls being the guay tiew nuea Go Hub (beef noodles), khao gaeng (rice with toppings), and the khao nah ped (rice topped with roast duck) at Dragon X. Finish things off with a Thai dessert at the popular Cheng Zim Ei. 5/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-108-0888. BTS Asoke. MRT Asoke. Open daily 10am-10pm.

Central Food Loft With its black and steel grey décor, its large windows overlooking Sukhumvit and its army of staff who hold your table while you saunter off to order your food, this is a bit of a hybrid between a traditional food court and a sit-down restaurant. The choice comes from a range of restaurants serving international cuisine: Indian by Indian Spice, Italian by Gianni’s and many more. It’s not as cheap as some but you’re paying for the choice. Do note that the food court on the G/F is also pretty nice. 7/F, 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7070, 02-7937777. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Chit Lom

Y Pick issaya siamese club — Thai. $$$-$$$$

Chef Ian Kittichai made his name in New York but returns home with this restaurant, set in a delightful wooden mansion and featuring inventive twists on classic Thai recipes. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., Sathorn Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. www.issaya.com

Somtum Der — Thai. $$ Yards from the bustle of Silom Rd., this spot brings typical street food into a more upmarket setting. The menu has a focus on somtam, a spicy Thai papaya salad, and other classic Northeastern dishes. 5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am-10pm. XF11

Oskar BISTRO — International. $$$ An excellent menu of comfort food, a long list of drinks and a great DJ mean this bistro, in the heart of club land, is a popular spot for supper and pre-club drinks. 24, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255 3377. Open daily 6-11pm. ZA1

Y Pick Appia — Italian. $$$ Jarret Wrisley of

the popular Soul Food Mahanakorn teams up with Chef Paolo Vitaletti who is committed to his family food principle, to create wonderful Roman-style pastas. Also, do expect a carefully curated wine selection. 20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-261-2056. Open daily 6-11pm. ZC4

Near Equal — Thai. $$-$$$ This long-term favorite is set in a quaint house down a lovely leafy street. Upstairs the wood floors and antique pieces make for a delightful spot to enjoy wellbalanced Thai dishes; then head downstairs to browse the selection of Thai furniture and handicrafts. 22/2 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-2581564/5. ZC5

Y Pick Quince — International. $$$ Quince’s

Y Pick Indus — Indian. $$$ An ambient spot

with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual north Indian favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:3010:30pm. ZE5

cantilevered structure on the roof of the Holiday Inn this venue offers a choice of classic North indian dishes, an outdoor lounge and a DJ bar. Holiday Inn Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-683-4704. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 6pm-1am. ZC4

Smith — International. $$$$ Set in a former furniture warehouse, it’s decked out in an elegant industrial theme, with walls lined with butcher’s tools. Chef Peter Pitakwong’s menu focuses on two things: locally-sourced ingredients and nose-to-tail cooking. 1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-261-0515. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. ZC5

THONGLOR/EKKAMAI

country-classic theme goes for a casual and rustic ambiance that’s part industrial part rustic villa. The kitchen’s focus is all about sustainability, ethical eating and local produce with down-to-earth home cooking and a ‘market’ menu that changes frequently. Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478. Open daily 6-10pm. www. quincebangkok.com ZC5

Soul Food Mahanakorn — Thai. $$-$$$ Soul Food dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails, as well as a brief menu of well-executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect and the small venue is often packed. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-midnight. ZC6

The Local — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef and co-owner Can Markawat keeps the focus on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find traditional recipes. They’re all served in a beautiful hundred-year-old house. There are cooking lessons every Wednesday, too. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm ZA3

$$ Sat in a three-story shophouse, this Thai restaurant offers a cozy yet chic décor. The menu is based on what the owner’s grandmom used to cook—Thai food that borrows both from her hometown of Trat, and where the family now lives, Khon Kaen. Expect authentic and often rare dishes. 160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (between Thonglor Soi 6 and 8). Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm ZC6

Y Pick Supanniga Eating Room— Thai.

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dining Little Beast—International. $$-$$$ Owned by a group of best friends who met in New York, this stylish gastro bar serves French and New American cuisine. Enjoy the popular 15-hour lamb shoulder and creative cocktails in a 1920s-inspired space. 44/9-10, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2670. Open TueSun 5:30pm-1am. ZB5

Y PICK Opposite Mess Hall — International.

$$$ Chef Jess Barnes draws on both Mediterranean and Asian influences and focuses on local produce. The fuss-free nature of the place means dishes are often best-eaten with your fingers and enjoyed with the homemade cocktails. Check out Oppositebangkok.com for special evenings and pop-up dinners. 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-6626330. Open Tue-Sun 7pm-midnight. ZC5

Y Pick Paste — Thai. $$$ Run by chef couple

Bongkoch Satongun and Jason Bailey, who take their inspiration from Thai royal cuisine. Everything here is homemade from locally-sourced ingredients completed with inventive techniques and artful presentation. 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-3924313. www.pastebangkok.com ZA5

Phuket town — Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional Southern-style dishes like kanom chine namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that has plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches. Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm. ZC6

Y Best Dim Sum in Bangkok Chef Man (Dim sum available 11:30am-2:30pm) The waiting list suggests this is the most exciting dim sum restaurant in town. Not really into the egg-y taste of their popular lava buns? The classic har gau (shrimp dumpling) comes with a translucent flour wrapping that’s chewy yet fresh, concealing the delicious chunks of shrimp. And since it can take weeks to get a table, you’d be foolish not to order a range to take home. 3/F, Eastin Grand Sathorn, Sathorn Rd., 02-212-3741. BTS Surasak.

chef man

Hong Bao (Dim sum available 11:00am-2pm) While the food leans in a decidedly Cantonese direction, the decor is lively with Shanghainese accents. Noon is the best time to visit as, while some of the regular dishes are merely OK, their expertly prepared dim sum pack some serious wow factor. The best news is the opening of this new branch in the center of town on Sukhumvit Soi 39. 104 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-3565.

Man Ho (Dim sum available 11:30am-2:30pm) This is a popular spot for Sukhumvit family get-togethers, thanks to its elegant décor and enormous, bright windows with views over Sukhumvit Road. They do two options: a B690 all-you-can-eat dim sum during the week, and a slightly fancier set for B950 (all week) that includes roast duck and moo daeng (roast pork). JW Marriott, 4 Sukhumvit Soi 2, 02-656-7700. man ho

Water Library — International. $$$$ A restaurant that serves a maximum of ten diners per night, with a 12-course set menu using the best ingredients prepared in front of you by an army of chefs. It’s very sophisticated, very sexy and while quite expensive is very memorable. There’s also a neighboring wine bar. Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, 02714-9292/-3. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am. ZB6

Riverside Chon — Thai. $$$$ Set in a beautiful Thai teak house overlooking the Chao Phraya River, Chon (“spoon” in Thai) is making a name for itself thanks to its authentic Thai food. The Siam Hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd., Dusit, 02-206-6999. Free shuttle boat from Central Pier. www.thesiamhotel.com The Deck — Thai/International. $$$ Book in advance for one of the best spots, out on the second floor terrace, and enjoy the view of Wat Arun. The menu covers Thai and European dishes. 36-38 Soi Pratu Nokyung, Maharat Rd., 02-221-9158. Open MonThu 7am-10pm, Fri-Sun 7am-11pm. WP23 Steve Café & Cuisine — Thai. $$ Located next to Thewet pier, Steve’s offers river views, a charming vibrantly-colored 60-year old wooden house, and authentic Southern dishes. 68 Soi Sri Ayuthaya 21 (Wat Devarajkoonchon), Sri Ayuthaya Rd., 02281-0915. www.stevecafeandcuisine.com. Open 11:30am-11pm. Sala Rattanakosin — Thai/Western. $$$ This stylish riverside venue is where to indulge in Western and Thai creations and to feast your eyes on the view of the Temple of Dawn. Soi Ta Tien, Maharat Rd., 02-622-1388. www.salarattanakosin.com. Open daily 7am-10pm. Tha Tien Pier. WP23

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Art+ antiques ARt galleries 100 TONSON GALLERY — On top of its prime location and well-designed space, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-684-1527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20 BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTRE (BACC) — The city’s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art-related shops in its impressive 11-story structure. 939 Rama I Rd., Pathumwan, 02214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th YM16 H GALLERY — Set in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions representing emerging contemporary Asian artists. 201, Sathorn Soi 12, 081-310-4428. BTS Surasak. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm. www.hgallerybkk.com XH11 Silom galleria — This large mall hosts a range of modern Asian art under one roof. Highlight galleries include: Tang Contemporary Art, which covers modern Chinese art, and Thavibu Gallery, which features works by Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists. 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-2665454. The mall is open daily 10am-8pm, though some galleries have different opening times. XI10

ROOFTOP GALLERY — With galleries in LA and New York, Hossein Farmani brings his passion for photography to the rooftop of the Design International School on Thonglor. 4/F, 440/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 090910-8373. Open Wed-Fri 12pm-7pm. ZA6 THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC) — Home to a large art library, and host to temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-6648488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-9pm. www.tcdc.or.th ZC4

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes. 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-2815360/1. Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. WS27 V64 — More than 60 artists from Chatuchak Weekend Market teamed up to transform a three-acre space into a large art center, which features studios, a gallery, an art academy, shop and restaurant. 143/19 Chaengwattana Soi 1 Yak 6, Bhangkhen. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.v64artstudio.com

WhiteSpace Gallery — This gallery, curated by talented contemporary Thai artist Maitree Siriboon, is a platform for young emerging artists with more of an experimental, avantgarde leaning. Sala Daeng Soi 1, 02-2352500. Open Wed-Sun noon-6pm. MRT Lumphini. XF12 v64

Y SPoTLIGHT

Modern Gallery at OP Garden As the latest addition to the Charoenkrung art neighborhood, this new gallery at the charming OP Garden is a project by art collector Ritt Slipsophon, who has been active on the local scene for over 20 years. Here, the focus is on showcasing contemporary works by prominent Thai artists like Thawan Duchanee, Chalermchai Kositpipat and Angkarn Kalayanapong, as well as promoting emerging artists. They’re planning at least four exhibitions a year, interspersed with showcases from private collections. The current exhibition running until January 15 is entitled Growing-Up by Montree Mungkun, who was awarded for his Contribution to Thai Art and Culture by the Ministry of Culture. Modern Gallery, 30/1 OP Garden, Charoen Krung Soi 38, 02-238-6449. Open Tue-Sun 11am-6pm.

SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — Both a shop and a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai artworks. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040. Open daily 9am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www. sombatpermpoongallery.com YL21 NATIONAL GALLERY — Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd., 02-281-2224, 02-282-2639-40. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www.nationalgallery.go.th WQ27

Where Special | Arts+Antiques

Premjit Thai Crafts The only place in Ratchaprasong District that offers authentic antiques, wood crafts and Buddha images from Thailand, Myanmar and Laos at affordable prices. Retail and wholesale. Visit our showroom at Amarin Plaza, 3rd fl., Thai Craft Market Zone C1,C3,Ploenchit Rd., Ratchaprasong.Tel: 081-424-0587 Email: kurunusart@yahoo.com

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Attractions Museums JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses brought here from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. B100. www. jimthompsonhouse.com YM15 NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous property houses some of the most impressive architecture, art and antiques in the country. Na Phrathat Rd., 02-215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. B50. www.nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th WQ27 MUSEUM SIAM — This completely restored colonial-style building is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-2252777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. B300. www. museumsiam.com WQ23

WAT TRAIMIT WITTAYARAM — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm.

SIAM OCEAN WORLD — Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. Highlights include the underwater tunnel, penguin enclosure and the glass bottom boat tour. Basement, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-6872000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm. B900 for adults, B700 for children. YM17 MADAME TUSSAUDS — The famous wax work museum has made it to Bangkok and features a star-studded line up of incredibly life-like movie stars, politicians and sportsmen drawn from all over the world. 6/F, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama I Rd., 02-658-0060. Open daily 10am-9pm. Tickets B800 adults, B600 children over 5. BTS Siam. YM16

SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household features eight Thai-style houses that showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period along with prehistoric relics from Baan Chiang. Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-246-1775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www. suanpakkad.com

cultural attractions

Kids

GRAND PALACE AND WAT PHRA KAEO (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture. Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace is Wat Phra Kaeo, home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. Also, don’t miss the exquisite mural wall paintings found on the compound walls. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am3:30pm. Free English tours at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm. B400. Tha Chang Pier. WQ25

FUNARIUM — This giant indoor soft play area provides painting, crafts, bike riding, roller blading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas, ensuring there’s plenty for the kids to do. 111/1 Sukhumvit 26, 02-6656555. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 8:30am-8:30pm. B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults for three hours. Socks required. www.funarium.co.th

WAT Pho — Famous as both the home of the 46-meter-long reclining Buddha and as a center of traditional Thai massage, it can even offers courses to learn for yourself. 2 Sanamchai Rd., Phra Nakhon. 02-225-4771. Open daily 8am-6pm. www.watpomassage. com. Tha Thien Pier WQ24

Y Attractions

Attractions

FLOW HOUSE — If you’re missing the beach, then why not go surfing in the middle of the city? That’s what Flow House offers, thanks to a special machine which gives a similar experience to riding a real wave. It also features bars, restaurants and retail shops specializing in water sports gear. Lessons are available for novices and prices cover board hire, use of showers and towels. Sukhumvit Soi 26. Open Sun-Thu 8am11pm; Fri-Sat 8am-midnight. Prices from B550 per hour. www.flowhousebangkok.com

WAT ARUN (TEMPLE OF DAWN) — Sat on the river’s edge, the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmerstyle tower) is decorated with millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means “morning” and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arunamarin Rd. Wat Arun Pier. WP22

KIDZOONA —Actually split into two main sections, Molly’s Gateway is a big arcade where Kidzoona offers a large space for children to explore. As well as giant inflatables and a big ball pit, there is the chance for children to dress up as builders, firemen, chefs and more in Papertown. 5/F, Gateway Mall Ekkamai, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-108-2650/-52. Open daily from 10am-9pm. B180-B330 for kids and B90 for adults. Socks required. BTS Ekkamai. ZD7 PLAYTIME — Located on the third floor of upscale mall Parklane, the main room is dominated by a large play-gym area. There’s also a separate space for under threes, a sandpit, ice skating rink, climbing wall, electric car track and more. Upstairs offers a cafeteria. 3-4/F, Parklane Ekkamai, opposite Ekkamai Soi 2, 02-382-0077. Open Mon-Thu 9am-6pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 9am-7:30pm. B210-350 for kids and B110 for adults. Socks required. www.playtime. co.th ZC7

Siriraj Medical Museum

Royal Barge Museum

Riverside walks: Wang Lang Pier Wang Lang Pier is always bustling thanks to its location surrounded by hospitals, universities and markets. Adjacent to the pier is Wang Lang Market, famed for its choice of secondhand merchandise (tip: new stuff arrives every Monday) and plenty of traditional Thai food and desserts. Situated on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, right by Wang Lang Pier, Siriraj Hospital is best known as the hospital of choice for members of the royal family. It’s also home to the more infamous Siriraj Medical Museum (www. si.mahidol.ac.th/museums/en), which contains a rather gruesome collection of artifacts, like human embryos and the mummified remains of a serial killer. Fortunately, there is an alternative for the squeamish next door in the form of the more recent Siriraj Phimukhsthan Museum (Siriraj Piyamaharajkarun Hospital, 2 Phannok Rd., 1474. Open Mon-Sat 9am-4pm. www.siphhospital.com. Entry B300 for adults and B20 for children). A more sedate affair, it looks to relate the history of Thai medicine and its first medical school through a series of interactive displays and exhibition spaces. There are also other exhibitions covering everything from the history of Thai train travel to the local Bangkok Noi community. As an added bonus it’s all housed in a beautiful 110-year-old building, which is worth the visit alone. Situated a relatively short riverside walk or even briefer taxi ride from the pier, you’ll find The Royal Barge Museum (Arunamarin Rd. Open daily 9am-5pm. 02-424-0004. B100), home to eight of the barges that are still used in ceremonial events like the Royal Barge Procession. Carved out of giant pieces of teak, gilded with gold and with prows depicting different mythical creatures, they need up to 50 rowers to propel them through the water.

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nightlife Downtown Y Hyde & Seek — Elevated pub grub, one of

Y SPoTLIGHT

Bangkok’s best cocktail menus and a décor that conjures up Victorian drawing room style and NYC sophistication. Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-168-5152-3. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. YM21

Bangkok Betty — The latest themed bar by nightlife guru Ashley Sutton has a back story that conjures up 1940s America, mixing pin-up girls and shiny chrome bombs of all sizes including a weapon of mass destruction that hangs in the middle of the space and is straddled by a real-life 50s pin-up girl. G/F, Holiday Inn, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-663-4223, open daily 6pm-1am ZC4 Horizons — The final element of “Heaven,” a complex of restaurants that crowns the Zen Department Store, Horizons is a new tapas bar which combines fusion cuisine, stunning views and great cocktails influenced by molecular techniques. 19/F, Zen Department Store, Rama 1 Rd., 02-101-0900. www.horizonsbangkok.com. Open daily 5pm-1am. YL18

Y Maggie Choo’s — Quirky styling and surreal

concepts like busts of Queen Victoria and a noodel shop facade help portray the story of a post-war Chinese lady, Maggie Choo, who opened a secret “speakeasy” bar in an old trading post’s bank vault. 320 Silom Rd., next to Novotel Fenix Silom, 02635-6055. BTS Surasak. XJ10

Y pick Scarlett — Perched on Pullman Bangkok Hotel G’s top floor, this popular spot features an al fresco terrace with fantastic views, an extensive and affordable wine list, industrial bistro décor and interesting tapas options. 37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd, 02-238-1991. BTS Chong Nonsi. XH10

Park Society — For a real breath of fresh air and a park view, head up to the top floor of this trendy hotel. Inside is fine dining while the rooftop is all about potent cocktails, lounge tunes and a great view. 29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000. Open daily 5pm-1am. XF2

Sukhumvit Soi 11 Nest — Nest offers a perfect blend of sexy sophistication and chill out chic. Lay back on their super comfy daybeds while you enjoy the open air clubby vibe. Rooftop of LeFenix Hotel, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255-0638/9. Open daily 4pm-2am. www.nestbangkok.com. ZA1 Apoteka — As the name suggests, this bar features a 19th century apothecary-inspired décor. The theme influences the cocktail list (called “antidotes”) where you’ll find drinks with names like Penicilin and Mr. Hyde. 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 090-626-7655. Open Mon-Thu 5pm-1am; FriSat 5pm-2am; Sun 3pm-midnight. BTS Nana. ZA1 Levels — Decked out with a huge LED chandelier above a circular bar and a bunch of monochrome sofas surrounding a sizeable dance floor, this cavernous venue aims for a rather swanky audiovisual clubbing experience. 6/F Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246. Open daily 9pm-3am. www.levelsclub.com ZA1

Potion Bar The perfect place for those who like a drink while browsing, Potion Bar puts its main focus on furniture and creative, Thai-influenced cocktails. Here, the owners’ passions come to the fore: one partner runs an import wallpaper business, Pinpina, while another is a furniture designer for the Thai brand Cast. The space has been set up as if it’s a furniture showroom, only with a bar installed. The cocktails here are all made with a base of Thai liquors (Sangsom, Mae Khong and Ma-Jai-dum, to name a few) that have been home-infused with local herbs and fruit like pandanus and pomegranate. Try Tarn, the simply named cocktail where pomegranate-infused liquor is blended with palm juice (B270). The Green Connect building, 235/10 Sukhumvit Soi 31 (Soi Sawasdee). 091-868-9974. Showroom open daily 10am-onwards. Bar open daily 6pm-midnight. ZB4 Q Bar— The Soi 11 institution continues to deliver a heady mix of bass lines and international DJs downstairs but their 2nd floor, with a large outdoor patio, means it’s also a great spot to chill out with friends. In the back, Le Derriere serves up absinthe and oysters amidst a 1900s French decor. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-3274 BTS Nana. Open daily 8pm-1am. ZA1

ThongLor/Ekkamai badmotel — This formerly abandoned three-story building has been repainted all in white and offers a glasshouse style ground floor, a sizable courtyard and a low-key rooftop. They regularly play host to special events, which means it’s usually full of Bangkok’s painfully hip. Next to J-Avenue, Thonglor Soi 55, between Soi 15 and 17, 02-7127288. Open daily 5pm-1am. ZA6 Mellow — Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, affluent locals, attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with its beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and delicious cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-3820064. Open daily 11-1am. ZA6

Y pick Iron Fairies — Like no other bar in

Bangkok, it actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies. A great live band makes this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-8875. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. ZB6

Y pick WTF — A collaboration between an art

curator, a hip hotelier and a photojournalist, WTF is actually a hybrid bar and exhibition space that’s popular with Bangkok’s creative expats and local hipsters. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. www.wtfbangkok.com ZC5

Octave — This multi-level rooftop bar and restaurant offers a stylish modern-industrial décor that is accentuated by great views over Sukhumvit from the top deck. The food menu is focused on Asian-themed bar snacks and features intriguing nibbles like prawn yakitori with chili tomato sauce. 45/F, Marriott Bangkok Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000. Open daily 6pm-1am. ZC6 Wine Republic — They take their vino seriously here, with a wall of bottles and informed staff to talk you through your purchase. The dark spit-and-sawdust interior and breezy outdoor terrace get very busy on weekends. Thonglor Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7599. Open daily 5:30pm-1am. ZB6 Tuba — This bar seems to have been around forever but the crowds keep coming thanks to the quirky surroundings, from a lifesized Superman to a giant Incredible Hulk, the retro furniture, which is all for sale, the fiery Thai food and the great cocktails, best enjoyed during their daily 2-for-1 happy hour from 5-8pm. Room 11-12 A, 34 Ekkamai Soi 21, 02-711-5500. Open daily 11-1am.

Riverside Viva & Aviv — Fitting for its riverside location, this venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nautically-inspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive, well-made cocktails and bistro-style food. River City, 23 Yota Rd., 02-639-6305. Open daily 11ammidnight. www.vivaaviv.com

Y pick Babble + Rum — This riverside restaurant and bar is clad in a modern French-café decor, finished with dark woods and leather couches. An outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area make for a chill night out. 1-2/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Arthit Rd., 02-633-5000. Open daily 6:30am1am. www.rivasurya.com WQ27

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HEALTH + WELLNESS SPA Y PICK Away Spa — Beds glow softly in your

choice of green, red, purple or pink, while the dim, labyrinthine halls induce an almost meditative mood. Treatments range from a one-hour aroma massage and detox to a four-hand mineral scrub and oil massage. Finally, the Style Lab offers mani, pedi and grooming services. 6/F, W Bangkok, North Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4000 ext. 4160. BTS Chong Nonsi. www.wbangkok.com XH12

ELEMIS SPA — The Elemis Spa is the brand’s first in SE Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the Arabian sauna in the Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-2077777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.stregis.com/bangkok YN18 Le Spa with L’Occitane — Thailand’s first Le Spa with L’Occitane boasts a contemporary Thai style combined with an elegant French touch. Treatments include the Golden Siamese Massage and Four Teas Ceremony. 9/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd., between Soi 13-15, 02-126-9999. BTS Nana. ZB2 Divana Virtue Spa — Tucked down a small soi close to the bustle of Silom, Divana Virtue Spa is authentic yet homely. Situated in a century-old house, decked out in a traditional Rama V style, it sits among a small yet lush garden to create a very private and calming atmosphere. 120 North Sathorn Rd., 02-637-8883. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 9am-11pm. XG13

Y Pick I.SAWAN — With its Tony Chi design

and its classy residential cottages and treatment bungalows, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a full fitness club. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am-11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com YN18

Y Pick PaNPURI ORGANIC SPA — Hidden

behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of this luxury spa. Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02656-1199. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.panpuri. com YM18

THANN SANCTUARY SPA — Their treatments use locally-made spa products and are offered within a tranquil space. 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.thann.info YM18

Y SPoTLIGHT

LET’S RELAX — With branches around Thailand, and a wide variety of packages and trained masseuses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-662-6935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight. More branches: www.letsrelaxspa.com ZB3 MULBERRY SPA — Set in a 60s-style residential compound, Mulberry Spa offers the usual selection of treatments amid a classy-yet-cozy ambiance. 132 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1888. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 9am-11pm. Silom branch: www.mulberryspa.com ZB3

Y Pick Six Senses Spa — This famous hotel

chain’s newest spa sports plenty of wood, for that natural connection, but more importantly, boasts stunning views of downtown Bangkok. Treatments are tailored following a consultation with a spa director and are exhaustive, covering both aesthetic and therapeutic options. 30/F, Two Pacific Place, 142 Sukhumvit Rd. 02-653-2450. BTS Nana. www.sixsenses.com ZB1

Sook Sabai Health Massage — Conveniently located, the French-Indochinese vintage-inspired spa offers a variety of treatments ranging from traditional Thai massage to Balinese treatments. Open daily 10am – 10.30pm.3-4/F YJA Building, Rama 4 Road. 02-637-5575 www.sooksabaispa. com THE ORIENTAL SPA — The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Rd., 02659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. XJ9 I Spa — One of Bangkok’s newest spa sanctuaries, the treatments offered here are based on therapies from China, India, Japan and Thailand, using five choices of essential oils based on Asian flowers and herbs. 9/F, The Landmark Bangkok, 138 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-252-9444. BTS Nana. www.ispathailand. com ZC1

Bhawa Spa This new spa is sat in a three story building enclosed from the busy Wireless Road, a short walk from BTS Phloenchit, thanks to their own vertical garden. Featuring a contemporary décor that’s blended with charming traditional touches, like the wooden baths and screens, the spa features six couples suite spa rooms and also boasts a communal pool in the garden. The treatments offer a holistic approach to your body and range from precious stones detox to mind rejuvenation workshops. Signature combination treatments include the Tourmaline Supreme detox (240 minutes, B7,150), which looks to cleanse and rejuvenate with a charcoal body scrub, a dead sea body mud wrap, a warm green tea bath and a facial and the anti aging Emerald gold Ayurveda (240 minutes, B7,150), which includes the use of gold powder and gum honey. There are also more straightforward Thai, oil and aromatherapy massages as well as facials. 83/27 Witthayu Soi 1, Wireless Rd., 02-2527988. Open daily 10am-11pm. www.bhawaspa. com YN20

Yunomori onsen & Spa — Bangkok’s first authentic onsen (hot spring spring bath house) features water sourced from a hot spring in Ranong, in Southern Thailand. As with traditional onsen’s in Japan bathing is done in the nude, though there are separate baths for men and women. B450 for all-day onsen, and B350 for Thai massage. A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-2595778. Open daily 10:30-12am.

Where Special | Wellness

Sook Sabai Health Massage

Sook Sabai Health Massage is an oasis in the modern jungle that takes you back to the golden era of China’s Qin dynasty and its indulgent palaces. Lounge in a couch, recover from the heat and your busy lifestyle with a refreshing drink, and choose to enjoy one of our treatments. Our skillful therapists promise to deliver the best indulgence for your utmost relaxation. Get to enjoy the Sook Sabai experience everyday, from 10:00am – 10:30pm. Sook Sabai Health Massage, 23/13-14 YJA Building 3rd Floor, Soi Saladaeng 1, Silom Rd., Bangrak, Bangkok. For reservations, call 02-637-5575. Email : info@sooksabaispa.com. www.sooksabaispa.com

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ShopS+Services Downtown Amarin Plaza — The mall’s Greco-Roman façade actually hides some unexpected gems. ID1 on the first floor holds an interesting collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs. 496-502 Phloenchit Rd., 02-650-4704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com YM18 CentralWorld — This massive shopping complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000-sqmeters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for top brands like Topshop, Gap, Coach and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites like Boudoir, Kloset and Vickteerat. Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www.centralworld.co.th YM18 Central Chidlom — The closest thing Bangkok has to Harrods, Central Chidlom first opened in 1973 and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. It’s packed with leading brands, like Ralph Lauren, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the impressive food hall on the ground floor and the views from the international food court, up on the seventh. 1027 Phloenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th YM19

Siam Center — One of the city’s most iconic malls reopened at the start of this year after a major renovation and offers new inspirational spaces for art and design, befitting its traditional reputation at the vanguard of the local fashion scene. The highlight is the Fashion Visionary space on the third floor, home to the flagship stores of top Thai designers like Something Boudoir, Theatre, Flynow III and multi-Thai-label store The Selected. There’s a good food court, too. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www. siamcenter.co.th YM16 Siam Paragon — With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like H&M and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a cinema. As well as lots of restaurants, there’s also a food court in the basement. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamparagon.co.th YM17

MBK Center — Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and at bargain prices. As a result, the chaotic MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good quality. Still, it’s a lot of fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the 6th floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www. mbk-center.co.th YM16

MBK

Platinum Fashion Mall — Platinum is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashion-related from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even a single item is very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02121-8000. www.platinumfashionmall.com YK18

rain hill

Crystal Design Center It’s a long way to go but there’s lots to keep you interested when you get there. Divided into two sections, Phase 1 is big on home decor and furniture, while Phase 2 is a mix of lifestyle options. CDC is a particularly cool hangout thanks to bars like Est. 33 and Beerology. 1420/1 Praditmanutham Rd., 02-101-5999

Rain Hill Japanese dining options abound in this small but well-formed mall, as well as an attractive looking branch of affordable wine bistro Wine Connection, craft beer hangout House of Beers and excellent coffee at Pacamara. The great downtown location, cascading water falls, funky little boutiques and a small supermarket make it a pretty hip and happening spot.

Erawan Bangkok — This mini-mall might look petite, but its three floors offer some high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including Comme des Garçons, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Lanvin and Alexander Wang. 494 Phloenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com YM18 Gaysorn — Thailand’s leading high-end mall is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Céline) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Phloenchit Rd., 02-656-1149. BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com YM18

Y Bangkok’s Best Small Malls

Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-260-7447 suam paragon

Siam Discovery — The sister mall of Siam Center celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul in 2011, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussaud’s wax museum. It also remains the place to come for Thai furniture brands. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www. siamdiscovery.co.th YM16

Sukhumvit The Emporium — Set in the heart of an upscale residential area, The Emporium offers luxury shopping, thanks to its tenant portfolio, brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Dior and Celine, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal and Jim Thompson. There are also lots of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative & Design Center on the top floor. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www.emporiumthailand.com ZC4 Terminal 21 — Boasting an airport terminalcum-international destinations theme, the nine floors let you stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the upper floors offer intriguing boutiques by Thai designers. There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21.co.th ZB3

Aree Garden Located at the end of Soi Aree Samphan, this small, lush hangout is home to Mahuna bookstore, cafes, bars, restaurants and sushi bar Sakana. Also, don’t forget to check out their Saturday Market which offers craftworks, secondhand accessories and more. Soi Aree Samphan 11 (opposite Mininistry of Finance), 02-278-3258. www.areegarden.com

K Village This well-rounded mall, a short taxi ride from Phrom Phong BTS, packs in lots of standalone fashion boutiques, a cool bar (Five), some Japanese dining options and an impressive new international supermarket. There’s also a regular farmers market held every last weekend of the month. 93, 95 Sukhumvit Soi 26. 02-258-9919/-21. www. kvillagebangkok.com

J-Avenue This veteran community mall is the real deal, with a selection of shops catering to local resident’s expensive tastes, from imported brand bags to cute dessert shops—and a handsome Greyhound Cafe. Thonglor Soi 15 bangkok, 02-660-9000

The Portico Langsuan The Portico is a petite space mostly devoted to cafes and restaurants. Don’t miss Masatomi Patisserie, where Japanese influences and French techniques are combined for subtler variations of pastry classics. 31 Soi Langsuan, Ploenchit, 02-652-1968. BTS Chitlom.

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ShopS+Services Elsewhere Chatuchak Market — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is a vast weekend market. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections, roughly categorized by the products each section offers. You can literally spend days amid the warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 10-24 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home-decor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun

River city— Situated right on the river, the third and fourth floors of this mall are packed with boutique stores selling the very best in Thai and South East Asian art, antiques and artefacts. Once you’re done shopping you can also take advantage of the collection of bars and restaurants on the ground floor, which offer great river views out on the terrace. Open daily 10am-10pm. Yotha Rd., 02-2370077. www.therivercity.com. Free ferry from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Thaksin). XJ11

OP Place — Situated in a beautiful neoclassicalstyle building close to the river, this luxury mall oozes charm from the sweeping wooden staircase to the antique lift. It’s home to a host of high-end boutiques offering unique and rare antiques and artifacts from across Southeast Asia, handcrafted jewelry, bespoke tailors and fine art. 30/1 Charoenkrung Soi 38, 02-266-0186. Open daily 10:30am-7pm. XJ11

Y SPoTLIGHT

chatuchak market

Asiatique — This evenings-only shopping center on the banks of the Chao Phraya River is themed according to the city’s old architecture. Divided into sections, ranging from the waterfront to a 100-year old refurbished sawmill, it includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashions and intriguing souvenirs, plus offers a variety of eateries and wine bars. Asiatique is also home to a large ferris wheel, Calypso Cabaret, Joe Louis puppet theater and the dramatic new show Muay Thai Live. Free ferry from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin). 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488. Open daily 4pm-midnight.

Pop-up Shops Hip fashion-mall Siam Center has recently welcomed two equally hip new pop-up stores: Monocle Seasonal Shop and Another Alternative. International affairs magazine Monocle brings its seasonal shop concept back to Thailand, promising top quality accessories, stationery and home décor. The 400-sq-meter Another Alternative, meanwhile, serves up over 20 different Thai and international brands, including RougeRouge, Emoi and Happy Socks, as well as the chance to wine and dine in style at Issue Café, which is run by the local designer brand Issue. Both pop-up stores run until February 20. Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. YM16

january 2014 I WHER E t ha i l a n d 29

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Find out the latest news on Thailand at Www.wherethailand.com and Facebook.com/WhereThailand

30 W H E R E t h a i land I january 2014

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GET MOVING Dining

1. 11 Gallery B1 2. Above Eleven A1 3. Appia C4 4. Bacco C6 5. Bo.Lan D5 6. El Lugar A3 7. Elysian Teahouse B5 8. Indus E5 9. Isao C4 10. Khun Churn D7 11. L’Appart B2 12. Little Beast B5 13. Maverick B3 14. Maya C6 15. Near Equal C5 16. Opposite Mess Hall C5 17. Oskar Bistro A1 18. Paste A5 19. Phuket Town C6 20. Scalini C5 21. Quince C5 22. Smith C5 23. Soul Food Mahanakorn C6 24. Supanniga Eating

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used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only one canal (klong) still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the

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Soi Sukhumvit 55 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 55

Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically-challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.

Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 34

AIRPORT LINk—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (tenminute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B90 one-way and B150 roundtrip for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.

BANGKOK

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Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

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Pan Rd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹

Soi Silom 19 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 7

àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

EARIN G

ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ

Ekkamai

TO B

Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์

10 11

TO BANG SUE STATION

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·ÃãµŒ

Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·ÃàË¹×Í

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

silom14

Lumphini

Rd.

32 W H E R E t h a i land I january 2014 S

skytrain/underground—The BTS skytrain Wat stops at Bangkok’s main districts and Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·ÑÈ¹ gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom Line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium; and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-42. ¶¹¹º

ÙÃ¾Ò

The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an 26 27 28 extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) on Wang the Lang outskirts of Chinatown, down through the Pier âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅÈÔÃÔÃÒª ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇÑ§ËÅÑ§ » ÂÁËÒÃÒª¡ÒÃØ³Â main Central Business District6 before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asok—MRT 4 Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng—MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. 1

Tickets can be bought3 for individual journeys, 4 Phra Athit Pier or you can get special one-day tourist passes or ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For Chana Songkram more information,Watgo to www.bts.co.th and www. ÇÑ´ª¹ÐÊ§¤ÃÒÁ bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems. Police Station Ê¶Ò¹ÕµÓÃÇ¨

TAXIS—In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes Democracy try toMonument negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the Í¹ØÊÒÇÃÕÂ »ÃÐªÒ¸Ô»äµÂ metered price. 5

Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò

Wat Saket ÇÑ´ÊÃÐà¡µØ

Navigate_JAN_2014_NEW.indd 32

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Chamchuri Square ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ

ÊÕÅÁ

Chulalongkorn Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅ¨Ø¿ÒÅ§¡Ã³

2 F

¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 4

Sala Daeng

Jim Thompson

Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§

ÈÒÅÒá´§

Silom Soi 2

4 6

2 Silom Complex

Thaniya Plaza ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ

Si Lom Rd.

Ekkamai àÍ¡ÁÑÂ TO B

STATIO

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

erminal ¡ÁÑÂ

EARIN G

Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢

6 6

9 OP Place

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ally from 8:30am to 3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡ÃØ§ malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃØ³

5. Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall S26 6. Royal Barge Museum P27 7. The Queen’s Gallery S27 8. Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) P22 9. Wat Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald Saphan Taksin Buddha) Q25 ÊÐ¾Ò¹µÒ¡ÊÔ¹ 10. Wat Po Q24

Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ banking hours— Banking hours are gener-

ATMS—ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside of 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

Oriental Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕÂ¹àµÅ

BANGKOK

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·ÃãµŒ

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÇ§È

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

TO BANG SUE STATION

Hospitals—Bumrungrad International, make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over (Sukhumvit Soi 1-3, 02-667-1000, emergency 4 1 5 the “VAT REFUND from stores displaying FOR 02-667-2999), Bangkok Hospital (Soi Soonvijai, TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of Petchaburi Rd., 02-310-3000), BNH Hospital the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase (Convent Rd., 02-686-2700), Samitivej Sukhumvit the item present your passport and ask the sales (Sukhumvit 49, 02-711-8181), Siriraj SiPH (PhranNarathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์ assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund nok Rd., 1474). Application for Tourists form, attaching the original Chong Nonsi tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and 7 ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ 1Dining before you check-in, present your goods and the 1. Supatra Riverside P26 4 City Viva 5 refund form to customs officers to get your form 2. Sala Rattanakosin P23 5 3. Seven Spoons T27 stamped. After check-in and immigration, proceed 4. Sheepshank Q27 St. Louis Hospital to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅà«¹µ ËÅØÂÊ 5. The Deck P23 Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ Refund amounts under B30,000, will be made in 5 4 Art & Attractions cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to 2 Pan Rd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹ 1. Grand Palace/Museum of Textiles Q25 your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000, 1 2. Siam Q23 Surasak 6 Museum will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ Q27 3.8 National Gallery Soi Silom 19 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 1 card account. 4. National Museum Q27 7

getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo 9 opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a G price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Soi Convent «ÍÂ¤Í¹áÇ¹µ vat refunds—Visitors to Thailand who ¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

TUK-TUKs—Tuk-tuks are a noisy but of Silomfun Soi way 4

10 11

ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·ÃàË¹×Í

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

Lumphini

Rama 4 Rd.

Nightlife Central Pier

·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã Q27 1. Babble & Rum TO BANG WA STATION

1 Tha Phrachan Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃÐ¨Ñ¹·Ã

Tha Tien Pier ·‹ÒàµÕÂ¹

Rattanakosin28

Wang Lang Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇÑ§ËÅÑ§

Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅÈÔÃÔÃÒª » ÂÁËÒÃÒª¡ÒÃØ³Â

2 5 P 1

1 Memorial Bridge Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÐ¾Ò¹¾Ø·¸

Wat Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ

Wat Po ÇÑ´â¾¸Ô์

1 3

Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃÒªÇ§¤

Phra Athit Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

Wat Chana Songkram ÇÑ´ª¹ÐÊ§¤ÃÒÁ

Wat Rajapardit ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃÐ´ÔÉ°

Chit

Wat Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·ÑÈ¹

Police Station Ê¶Ò¹ÕµÓÃÇ¨

TO BEARING STATION

8 2

Soi Ruam Rudi «ÍÂ Ã‹ÇÁÄ´Õ

11 Lumpini Park ÊÇ¹ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

TO NATIONAL STADIUM STATION

Si Lom

India Emporium ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ÍÔ¹à´ÕÂ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ

The Old Siam Plaza ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ China World ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒä«¹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´

Democracy Monument

Bura

pa R

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Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò

Wat Saket ÇÑ´ÊÃÐà¡µØ

january 2014 I WHER E T HAILAND 33

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12/20/13 5:05 PM

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

Soi Sukhumvit 38

Soi Sukhumvit 40 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

ÊÇ¹ÊÒ¸ÒÃ³àºÞ¨¡ÔµµÔ

Soi

Queen Sirikit National Convention Center ÈÙ¹Â »ÃÐªØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Benchakitti Park

Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢Ø

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Soi Sukhumvit 26 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

BANGKOK

Soi Sukhumvit 24 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁ

Soi

Soi Sukhum

Ê¶Ò¹Õ¢¹Ê‹§àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

TO MO CHIT STATION

18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ

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Ratchathewi Platinum Mall á¾ÅµµÔ¹ÑÁ ÁÍÅÅ

11 1

L 4 2

Siam Discovery ÊÂÒÁ´ÔÊ¤Ñ¿àÇÍÃÕ่

Siam Center ÊÂÒÁà«็¹àµÍÃ

Central World à«็¹·ÃÑÅàÇÔÃ Å´

5 Siam Paragon ÊÂÒÁ¾ÒÃÒ¡Í¹

2,6,9 9

Wat Patum Wanaram ÇÑ´»·ØÁÇ¹ÒÃÒÁ

ZEN à«็¹

Gaysorn ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒà¡ÉÃ

Chit Lom ªÔ´ÅÁ

Memorial Brid ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÐ¾

Phloen Chit

Central Chidlom ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à«็¹·ÃÑÅªÔ´ÅÁ

à¾ÅÔ¹¨Ôµ

¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 1

Digital Gateway ´Ô¨ÔµÍÅà¡็µàÇÂ

Royal Thai Police ÊÓ¹Ñ¡§Ò¹µÓÃÇ¨áË‹§ªÒµÔ

General Police Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅµÓÃÇ¨

Amarin Plaza Erawan Bangkok ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒÍÑÁÃÔ¹·Ã ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒàÍÃÒÇÑ¹

Essential Numbers Emergency Services (Fire Brigade, Police) 191 Airport Rail Link 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th Bangkok Taxi Call Center 1681 / 1661 Bangkok Mass Transit System (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th BTS Tourist Information Center : 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th

Henri Dunant Rd. ¶¹¹ ÍÑ§ÃÕ´Ù¹ÑÇµ

Phaya Thai Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÞÒä·

10 12

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

Ratchadamri

Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ

ÊÂÒÁ

MBK ÁÒºØÞ¤ÃÍ§

Soi Tonson «ÍÂ µŒ¹Ê¹

TO BEARING STATION

Siam Soi Lang Suan «ÍÂ ËÅÑ§ÊÇ¹

Ê¹ÒÁ¡ÕÌÒáË‹§ªÒµÔ

Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃÒªÇ§¤

Rama 1 Rd.

National Stadium

8 2

Soi Ruam Rudi «ÍÂ Ã‹ÇÁÄ´Õ

Chit Lom Rd. ¶¹¹ªÔ´ÅÁ

Ratchadamri Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ

Pantip Plaza ¾Ñ¹·Ô¾Â ¾ÅÒ«‹Ò

Soi Som Khit «ÍÂÊÁ¤Ô´

ÃÒªà·ÇÕ

ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

S 5

Sarasin Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒÃÊÔ¹

TO BANG WA

Bangkok Metro (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6ammidnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th Chao Phraya Express Boat Call Center 02-6236001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com Suvanbhumi International Airport 1722/02-1321888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) – 1672. www.tourismthailand.org Tourist Police 24-hour call center 1155

Dining

1. Bawarchi M18 2. Le Beaulieu N21 3. Elements M20 4. Erawan Tea Room N18 5. Gaggan O19 6. Jim Thompson Restaurant & Bar L15 7. Kisara/Reflexions N21 8. La Monita Taqueria M21 9. Shintori/Ying Yang/ Zense/Horizons M18 10. Shintaro N18 11. Sra Bua L17 12. Zuma N18

Nightlife

1. Hyde & Seek M21 2. The Speakeasy N19 3. The St Regis Bar N18

Health & Wellness 1. Aveda M17 2. Aster Spring M18 3. Bhawa N21 4. Elemis Spa N18 5. i.Sawan N18 6. Panpuri Spa M18 7. Romrawin M19 8. S Medical Spa L20 9. Thann Sanctuary Spa M18

Shopping

1. Amarin Plaza M18 2. Central Chidlom M19 3. CentralWorld M18 4. Erawan Bangkok M18 5. Gaysorn M18 6. MBK Center M16 7. Pantip Plaza K17 8. Platinum Mall K18 9. Siam Center/Siam Discovery M16 10. Siam Paragon M17 11. ZEN L18

Art & Attractions

1. 100 Tonson Gallery N20 2. Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) M16 3. Jim Thompson Art Center & House L1 5 4. Madame Tussauds M16 5. Siam Ocean World M17 6. Sombat Permpoon Gallery L21

34 W H E R E t h a i land I january 2014

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21 Things we LOve about Thailand

n ve

1 Lying back with a cocktail in hand overlooking the sea from the amazing sunken booths at the Woo Bar at the W Hotel, Koh Samui (www.wretreatkohsamui.com). 2 Experiencing the traditional ambiance and mountain views of Pai, up in Northeastern Thailand.

3 Wandering through the UNESCO World Heritage site at Sukothai, Thailand’s former capital city and home to numerous ancient temples. 4 Browsing for luxury fashion brands at the countless boutiques and the high-end malls of Ratchaprasong Avenue (BTS Siam). 5 Sampling authentic Thai dishes served up by Bo and Dylan at one of Bangkok’s leading Thai restaurants, Bo.Lan (www.bolan.co.th).

7 Getting a fun and interactive lesson on Thainess at the Museum of Siam (www.museumsiam.com).

!2 Enjoying the view of downtown Bangkok while sipping a cocktail at Horizons the rooftop bar at Zen (www.zensebangkok.com).

8 Camping out under the stars before making an early morning trek to see the sunrise at the top of Phu Kradueang in Loei (042-871222/458, www.dnp.go.th).

!3 Admiring the work of established and emerging Thai and international artists at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BTS National Stadium, www.bacc.or.th).

9 Indulging in the molecular takes on Indian dishes created by the inventive chef Gaggan (www. eatatgaggan.com) at his eponymous restaurant in Bangkok.

!4 Gazing at the eerie beauty of Wat Rong Khun (aka the White Temple) the work of Thai national artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, in Chiang Rai.

!0 Getting a tension-relieving Thai massage at the spiritual home of the art, Wat Pho in Bangkok, home to the famous 46-meter-long reclining Buddha (www.watpho.com).

seafood at the seafront restaurants on Arunothai Beach in Chumphon, Southern Thailand.

!1 Strolling Phuket Town’s heritage

!6Searching for the elusive whale

trail and experiencing the unique Baba-Nyonya architecture.

sharks at Richelieu Rock, a famed diving spot located close to the Surin Islands, a two-hour boat ride from Khao Lak.

6 Snorkeling in the crystal clear waters off the beaches of the Andaman Island of Koh Tachai.

!5 Dining on fresh, catch-of-the-day

!7 Rummaging for everything from edgy fashion to teakwood furniture at the world’s largest weekend market, Chatuchak (JJ) Market (MRT Kamphaeng Phet). !8 Spending a very unique evening out in the Gulf of Thailand fishing for squid off the coast of Hua Hin. !9 Playing 18 holes on the challenging but beautiful championship-level golf course at the Mission Hills Golf Club (www. missionhillsphuket.com) in Phuket. @0 Learning how to cook Thai food from old-school recipes at the beautiful Blue Elephant Cooking School (www.blueelephant.com). @1 Taking advantage of the end of the rainy season with a spot of white water rafting at Mae Hong Son on the border with Myanmar.

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35 W H E R E th a iland I january 2014

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