Where® Thailand December 2015

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Thailand

DECEMBER 2015 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

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COOL BANGKOK

The ultimate peak season checklist

Bangkok’s Hottest Restaurants The New Chiang Mai YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO BANGKOK’S HOT SPOTS COVER_DEC_2015_new.indd 1

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CONTENTS where

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l THAILAND l DECEMBER 2015

The Guide BANGKOK 25 DINING For traditional Thai food with a touch of glamour, visit these stately dining rooms.

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28 NIGHTLIFE Find out where gay Bangkok's party circuit goes out to play, and visit the city's mosttalked-about new nightclub.

BEST OF THE SEASON

30 EXHIBITIONS The hottest exhibitions in Bangkok's galleries this month.

Your essential guide to high season in Bangkok

32 SHOPS+SERVICES

DINING

Unearth unique Thai-made gifts to take home to your loved ones.

10 HOT PLATES The definitive checklist to the Bangkok restaurants you simply can't miss.

34 ATTRACTIONS Don't miss the city's top live cultural shows, from flamboyant cabaret to championship muay Thai fights.

AROUND THAILAND 14 THE NEW NORTH

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36 NAVIGATE

Discover all the coolest new openings in Thailand's slow-life capital of coffee culture and craft produce.

Essential tips on getting around.

EXPLORING 20 CHINATOWN Bangkokians' favorite food institutions sit side by side with hip cocktail bars in the crumbling streets of this heritage neighborhood.

18 Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grégoire Glachant Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Regional Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Senior Designer Panita Thiraphapong Junior Designer Wariya Whangwaewklang

ALSO INSIDE

22 SIAM The central shopping district isn't just about big luxury brands; there's also a warren of stores by hot local designers, as well as some wonderful places to eat.

HOT DATES

38 21 THINGS WE LOVE

Staff Writer Pinnyada Tanitnon Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Lily Kittisrikangwan, Natcha Saguankiattichai, Bonnie Sananvatananont Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Senior Sales Associate Amarit Jinaya Distribution Manager Suda Angsuputiphant

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.

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MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Cover By Wariya Whangwaewklang

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, Room A, 100 North Sathorn Rd. Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

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MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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@where_thailand

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HOT DATES

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DEC 13

LUCKY BREAK

Renowned jazz, R&B and rock bass player and vocalist Nathan East, of contemporary jazz quartet Fourplay, comes to Bangkok for a charity concert this month to celebrate His Majesty the King of Thailand’s 88th birthday.

Don’t recognize the name? East is the guy who wrote the infectious bass-line to Daft Punk’s 2013 hit “Get Lucky.”

7/F, Siam Square One, Rama 1 Rd., 02-255-0000. BTS Siam. Tickets are B1,500-3,500, available on www.thaiticketmajor.com

DEC 8

DEC 13

DEC 29

DEC 29

The SEA Grammy Award-winning Danish pop band Michael Learns to Rock stop by Bangkok this month to showcase their blend of era-defining soft rock. Since forming back in 1988, these guys have continued to pull in the listeners, racking up over 6 million downloads in 2006 for the hit record “Take Me To Your Heart,” which you can expect to be played alongside old favorites such as “The Actor,” “Sleeping Child” and “25 Minutes”.

The Concert in the Park series makes a return this month at Lumphini Park (see page 6), where the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra will be performing a wide range of genres such as classical, pop, Thai hits and Broadway, alongside guest soloists and vocalists.

The concert takes place every Sunday, and attendants are encouraged to bring their own picnic blankets and baskets for a relaxing evening of food and music.

Bangkok’s biggest live music venue turns itself over to a one-day EDM party at the end of the year for Output Festival. Headlining is David Guetta, the guy whose dance anthems have just about set the bar for electronic music since the turn of the millennium. Hits like “When Love Takes Over,” “Getting Over You” and “Titanium” should guarantee a packed arena, so check for tickets in advance.

Celebrate the New Year with a bang by the Chao Phraya River for great views and beautiful fireworks. Most hotels and restaurants out there will be hosting New Year’s Eve specials, complete with festive cocktails, large buffet dinners and stage performances ranging from cheerful calypso to soulful Chicago. Want to celebrate somewhere closer to land?

The clubs around Bangkok will also be hosting New Year’s Eve parties, complete with live DJs and special drinks.

Royal Paragon Hall, 5/F, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-8011.

BTS Siam. Tickets are B2,500-4000, available on www.thaiticketmajor. com

Sala Bhirom Bhakdi, Lumphini Park, Rama 4 Rd. Concert take place every Sunday, starting from Dec 13. Performances start at 5:30pm. Free Admission

LOOK AND LEARN

OUTDOOR CLASSICS

ELECTRIC DREAMS

Hall 106, Bitec Bangna, 88 Bangna Trat Rd. BTS Bang Na. Tickets are B2,415-2,625, available on www.thaiticketmajor.com.

YEAR END

At most hotels along the Chao Phraya River. Free ferry from Sathon Pier, BTS Saphan Taksin. Visit www.bkmagazine.com for updates about New Year’s Eve parties around Bangkok.

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WINTER SPECIAL

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19 REASONS WHY WE LOVE BANGKOK IN DECEMBER Cooler weather, dry skies and some of the best events of the year make Thailand’s “winter” season the best time to be in the country.

1. POP-UP MARKETS Now is the time the city heads outdoors to shop at the host of weekend pop-up markets scheduled for December. The month kicks off with The Great Outdoor Market (Bangkok Docklands, Charoenkrung Rd., www.facebook.com/greatoutdoormarket) on Dec 10-13, where you’ll find workshops, booths selling arts and crafts and plenty of food trucks and cafes right by the Chao Phraya River. This massive market is followed by Winter Market Fest 3 on (San Samran Bridge, Sukhumvit Soi 77, www. sansiri.com/wintermarketfest3) on Dec 1213. Here, expect to find the city’s best young start-up shops and cafes, along with a family-friendly atmosphere (though grownups can stop at the beer tent for a few draft Singhas, too).

2. AFTERNOON STROLLS IN LUMPHINI PARK Escape the busy streets at central Bangkok’s best-known park. This huge expanse of green space in the heart of the city is where locals go to get some exercise without joining a gym, whether it’s running and lifting weights or yoga and Tai Chi. The lake is also home to some pretty big wild monitor lizards that make for unique photo ops.

ABOVE ELEVEN

WINTER MARKET

O.P. GARDEN

3. OUTDOOR SHOPPING

4. ROOFTOP BARS

Skip the indoor malls to enjoy an open-air shopping experience. Located right by the river, the traditionally-themed Tha Maharaj (11/1 Maharaj Rd.) is home to a vast array of boutiques and restaurants as well as a riverside promenade and community garden. On the other hand, Asiatique (2194 Charoenkrung Rd.) is home to restaurants and various stalls selling handmade items, souvenirs and fashion accessories. For hard-to-find handicrafts and souvenirs, hit up the charming, colonial-style O.P. Garden (4-6 Charoenkrung Soi 36), which boasts an outdoor courtyard surrounded by a large selection of specialty stores.

Nothing is more relaxing than sipping a cocktail against the beautiful Bangkok skyline after a day exploring the city. And Bangkok is home to more than just a handful of skyhigh spots to pick from. We especially like the multi-level rooftop bar Octave (45/F, Marriott Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 57) for its Thai-inspired cocktails and location near the prime party spots of Thonglor and Ekkamai.

To hang out with a hip, younger crowd, head over to Above Eleven (33/F, Fraser Suites, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11), where Nikkei Peruvian food meets with a party atmosphere and chic clientele.

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WINTER SPECIAL 5. ALFRESCO DRINKING AND DINING Not fond of heights? Bangkok is also home to plenty of bars and restaurants that let you drink and dine alfresco without the vertigo. The contemporary Sala Rattanakosin (39 Soi Ta Tien, Maharaj Rd.) focuses on classic Thai dining and European bistro food right by the Chao Phraya River.

For something more boisterous, check out Badmotel (between Thonglor Soi 15 and 17), which has a sizeable courtyard where young Thonglor hipsters congregate before going to listen to DJs upstairs. For something more retro, check out the balcony at nearby Moose (24 Ekkamai Soi 21), which serves up fiery Thai food and potent cocktails amid vintage bric-a-brac.

6. STREET-SIDE PAD THAI Enjoy arguably the city’s best shop-house pad Thai at Thip Samai (313-315 Mahachai Rd.), a one-dish specialist that is always busy during prime dinner hours. All of their dishes are delicious, but step your pad Thai game up a notch and order the to-die-for pad Thai hor khai goong (shrimp pad Thai wrapped in an egg crepe), washed down with the freshlysqueezed orange juice sold out front.

7. FIREWORKS BY THE RIVER Celebrate this New Year’s Eve in style on the Chao Phraya River and watch the beautiful firework displays put on by all the big fivestar hotels. Our top spot has got to be the ever-so-sophisticated terrace at Mandarin Oriental (48 Oriental Ave.), where you’ll also find a lavish New Year buffet. Alternatively, book a dinner cruise like Manohra (ow.ly/ V3CHs), that passes through the major riverside landmarks.

8. CHRISTMAS AT APPIA In town on the 25th? Go for a festive dinner at Appia (02-261-2056, 20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31, www.appia-bangkok.com), a charming trattoria specializing in “Roman-style family recipes (it just earned a spot on Monocle’s Restaurant Awards earlier this year). The menu is short but mouthwatering, especially when seafood-leaning festive specials take center stage.

TEENS OF THAILAND

9. THE FLAT WHITES AT BANGKOK’S COFFEE CULTURE STRONGHOLDS December is usually the season when locals swap their iced coffees for a hot flat white.

Our go-to spots include Ceresia (Sukhumvit Soi 33/1), which sells single origin and blended coffee from all over the world, Roast (2/F, Seenspace, Thonglor Soi 13), which blends all its beans in-house, and Ink & Lion Cafe (1/7 Ekkamai Soi 2), which uses local beans from reliable roasters such as Brave and Pacamara.

10. SHOP-HOUSES TURNED BARS This year, the city has welcomed a new wave of traditional Chinatown shop-houses converted into hipper-than-hip cocktail and craft beer bars. But these spaces are always pretty tiny, which means much of the crowd congregates on the crumbling, atmospheric streets outside (think Wong Kar Wai’s In the Mood for Love, which was actually shot on these same streets). Our favorites include El Chiringuito (221 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd.), Teens of Thailand (76 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd.) and Soulbar (945 Charoenkrung Rd.).

11. WONDERFRUIT One of Southeast Asia’s biggest music and lifestyle festivals takes place in Thailand on Dec 17-20, setting up just a couple of hours outside Bangkok. This year’s Wonderfruit lineup is headlined by hip-hop artist Yasiin Bey (AKA Mos Def), LA-based producer Daedelus and US synthwave musician Com Truise. But music’s just part of the fun. You can also try dishes from some of Bangkok’s top restaurants including Gaggan (see page 14), Rocket and Peppina, while award-winning New York bartender Shingo Gokan also drops by to take care of the boozy business. Buy your tickets at www.thaiticketmajor.com.

12. BEER PARKS Despite not being big fans of the sun, Bangkokians tend to take their rare outdoor season seriously, and love nothing more than a cold beer outside when the weather permits. Three major beer companies— Heineken, Singha and Chang—have set up “beer parks” (or rather, outdoor drinking terraces selling lager towers accompanied by loud music) at the city’s major locations.

Look out for them at places such as CentralWorld, Emquartier, Siam Paragon and

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Asiatique. For more information, visit the following links: www.heineken-thai.com, www.facebook.com/SinghabeerTH, www. facebook.com/changbeer.

13. NIGHT BAZAARS

SALA RATTANAKOSIN

Cooler nights are a great excuse to head to one of the buzzing night bazaars to score rare antiques and handmade goods. Our favorites include the tiny but vibrant Rod Fai Market 2 (99 Ratchadapisek Rd.), which features endless street eats, pre-loved clothes and rare vintage home decor pieces.

The oriental-meets-Wild-West themed Siam Gypsy Junction (965/8 BangkokNonthaburi Soi 29) carries everything from nostalgic Thai sweets to Harley-Davidson collectibles. While you shop, don’t forget to grab a drink at one of the pop-up bars too.

14. ELEPHANT WORLD Three hours from Bangkok, Kanchanaburi province is home to the conservationfocused Elephant’s World (www.elephantsworld.org, 034-514-800) where you can feed, play and even swim with elephants in a conscientious environment where the animals’ well-being comes first. Call ahead or book online as space is limited.

15. NATURE HIKES Take advantage of nature and go for a hike to the Erawan Falls, also in Kanchanaburi, and dubbed one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Thailand. The end of rainy season means that the 1,500-meter track to the top is at its least muddy but the falls are at their most spectacular, with seven tiers of emeraldgreen pools to stop and have a dip along the route. If you’ve got time to stay overnight, we recommend X2 Kanchanaburi’s brand new floating cabins (ow.ly/V5NlN), or the river rafts at www.thefloathouse-riverkwai.com.

HEINEKEN BEER PARK

"One of the rare tailors that Bangkokians love to recommend."

ROD FAI MARKET 2

_ WHERE Thailand

THIP SAMAI

APPIA

FEATURED IN

Pinky Tailor Mahatun Plaza Arcade, 888/40 Ploenchit Rd., Bangkok. BTS Ploenchit (Exit 2).

02-253-6328, 02-253-5055.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm (Sun by appointment). www.pinkytailor.com

WONDER FRUIT

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16. ANCIENT CITY

WAT PHO

Take a bike ride through Muang Boran, a massive open-air museum, which offers its visitors a one-stop excursion through all of Thailand’s historic monuments in scaled format, from majestic Lanna temples to golden royal palaces. More than just a Disneyfied version of Thailand’s heritage, Muang Boran sculpted each of its exhibits in consultation with the National Museum to ensure historical accuracy.

Don’t miss Sukhothai Wiharn, Chiang Mai’s seven-spired pagoda and the Tiger King’s place in Petchaburi.

17. GRAND PALACE

FIGHT OF THE GIBBON

WAT PHRA KAEW

Even locals never tire of visiting Thailand’s most revered buildings, the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew (Na Phra Lan Rd.), and tend to go before the turn of the year to pay respects to the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred Buddha image. The Grand Palace served as the royal residence of the first king of the current Chakri Dynasty, which began in 1762.

18. OUTDOOR THAI MASSAGES Located right across from the Grand Palace, Wat Pho (Sanam Chai Rd.) is home to the 43-meter-long reclining Buddha and is credited as the birthplace of Thai massage. The temple’s massage school still runs today, meaning visitors can get some of the most authentic Thai massages in the city. They also run short courses for anyone who’d like to learn for themselves.

19. ZIPLINE TOURS Just a few hours from Bangkok, Flight of the Gibbon (www.treetopasia.com) takes you deep into the Chonburi jungle for amazing wildlife views and an adrenaline rush at the same time. Three kilometers of wire are suspended above the forest canopy, the longest of which is over 300 meters. The company offers day packages from Bangkok including a nine-person shuttle bus to and from the city. Ten percent of profits also go towards primate rehabilitation, reforestation projects and ecological programs.

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Centar

ADVERTORIAL

UNO MAS The finest Spanish produce meets incredible city views at Bangkok’s new rooftop tapas hangout.

Perched on the 54th floor of the five-star Centara Grand at CentralWorld, the brand new semi-alfresco UNO MAS Spanish and Mediterranean tapas bar and restaurant has joined the city’s dining scene amid Bangkok’s shopping hub.

UNO MAS’ casual blend of bamboo ceilings, rustic sofas and warm palette of orange, yellow and marine results in a space that invites long and lazy meals with friends that stretch well into the night. Unlike upstairs’ wildly popular Red Sky rooftop bar, there’s still a roof over your head, but guests can enjoy a natural breeze from the completely open-air front, as well as those incredible panoramic city views. Pull up a stool at the bar, which is built around a vast, two-story-tall walk-in wine cellar (holding 2,000 different bottles), while for dinner you can choose between more formal seating beside the cold tapas station and a terrace that further emphasizes the outdoor feeling.

Some 40-odd tapas, both hot and cold, dominate the menu, alongside a selection of seriously fancy cold cuts like Joselito ham (described as the best Iberian

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ham in the world, B790-1,290), live Boston lobsters (B1,200 for tail sashimi) and bigname oysters from Fine de Claire to St. Vaast (B160-190). But the really exciting stuff happens out on the Josper charcoal oven, where the chef roasts up Cochinillo suckling pig the Spanish way: halved down the middle, perfectly salted and permeated with the flavor of fresh rosemary (B1,490, serves 2-4 people).

From the tapas menu, don’t miss the wild porcini mushroom croquettes (B190), raw Galician razor clam ceviche (B490) or “Mock Tuna” (B290)—cubes of Sangriadrenched watermelon on ice that perfectly cut through the fatty profile of some of the other tapas. The plating might be refined, with delicately positioned micro leaves and artfully curated colors making each dish look like an event, but there’s some serious flavor too—thanks in no small part to the premium produce being used.

To go with all that Spanish food, the chef and sommelier have created a top-drawer list of Spanish reds and whites, with a total 36 wines offered by the glass in both 9cl and 15cl pours. Try the minerally, almost-

Riesling-like 2013 Alberino from Martin Codax (B190/9cl, B320/15cl, B1,600/bottle), or the La Vendimia 2013 Rioja (B170/9cl, B280/15cl, B1,400/bottle) for a characteristically Spanish red. There’s also a menu of fruit-heavy cocktails at B390 each for that perfect pre-dinner drink (or to keep the party going later).

Swing by for the UNO MAS Hour every day from 4-6pm to enjoy buy-one-get-onefree on wine by the glass and a complimentary tapas on top of each glass.

To end the night, don’t miss their exclusive selection of Spanish cheese, from heavy hitters like the salty, chewy Manchego (B190/50g) to the fatty and moreish Murcian goat milk cheese washed in red wine. Save enough room for a plate of crisp, unctuous churros and your night will be complete.

54/F, Centara Grand @ CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-6255. Open daily 4pm-1am. BTS Chit Lom

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DINING

HOT PLATES

From celebrity chefs to local favorites, here is our definitive checklist to Bangkok’s best restaurants.

NAHM

BENJARONG

BO.LAN

THAI FINE DINING BENJARONG The food at this signature Thai restaurant for one of Bangkok’s old-guard hotels was given a total revamp by a Danish chef who worked with Copenhagen’s Michelin-star Thai restaurant Kiin Kiin. Benjarong’s cuisine is devoutly Thai as far as flavors go, but incorporates European slow-cooking methods, and is plated with considerate modern touches. The result is highly refined but also satisfyingly authentic. For the best experience, we recommend opting for one of the seasonal tasting menus.

Dusit Thani, 946 Silom Rd., 02-200-9000#2345.

Open daily 6-10pm; Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm. BTS Sala Daeng

BO.LAN

NAHM

BO.LAN

David Thompson, who formerly held a Michelin Star in London, serves fiery, multi-course set menus that offer devoutly authentic flavors and plenty of choice. We use the word “course” loosely, as this is true, communal Thai-style dining. Try the salad of fresh river prawns with pork and Asian pennywort, and the perfectly balanced coconut and tumeric curry of blue swimmer crab served with kanom jin (traditional Thai rice noodles).

Chef couple Duangporn Songvisava and Dylan Jones (who both formerly worked at David Thompson’s London Thai restaurant, Nahm) make all their Thai food from scratch, including the curry pastes, using only the best ingredients. Their traditional style, jazzed up with a few modern plating touches, has earned them global recognition. We recommend the Bo.lan Balance, a degustation menu regularly changing to reflect seasonal products. Bo.lan’s stylish house prominently features dark wood and ceiling covered with kradong (flat baskets).

Metropolitan Hotel, 27 Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3388.

Open daily 7-10:30pm; Mon-Fri noon-2pm

24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-2961-2. BTS Thong Lo. Open Tue-Sun 6-10:30pm; Sat-Sun noon-2:30pm

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HIP THAI ERR

SOMTUM DER

The aforementioned chefs Duangporn and Dylan Jones have gone for a casual and raw look in this shop-house restaurant near the river. It focuses on small-portioned, creative Thai dishes that go well with drinks, like chicken satay with brioche, naem (Northern-style garlic and sticky rice cured pork) and the deep-fried whole-chicken skin with homemade Sriracha sauce. The bar boasts plenty of cocktails made with Thai spirits.

394/35 Maharaj Rd., 02-622-2291. Open Tue-Sun 11am-midnight

SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN

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SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN The bar dishes out very potent (double pours, actually) original signature cocktails like the Bun Bang Fai (a mix of tequila, lime, chili, almond syrup and egg white) while the kitchen serves up perfectly executed Thai regional dishes like gaeng hang lay (Burmese pork belly curry) and pad krapao made with Australian lamb. This winning combo has seduced those seeking authentic food made with fresh, natural ingredients and served in a comfortable environment.

56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 5:30pm-midnight

SOMTUM DER Not far from the bustle of Silom Road, this little cafe brings typical street food into a modern shophouse setting. What’s more, its sister branch in New York just won a Michelin Star. The menu focuses on somtam (a spicy Thai papaya salad) and other classic Northeastern dishes. with particularly authentic flavors. Do try the pork skewers marinated in coconut milk and the wonderful deep-fried minced pork balls. Their martinis are also a highlight.

5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. MRT Silom. Open daily 11am-2pm, 4:30-10pm. BTS Sala Daeng DECEMBER 2015 I W HERE THA ILA N D 13

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CASUAL INTERNATIONAL PEPPINA Wanting to make the most authentic Neapolitan pizza in Bangkok, chef Paolo Vitaletti (of the highly esteemed Appia, which is just around the corner) ordered his massive pizza oven directly from Italy, along with a Neapolitan baker with five years’ experience just to make the dough. The result is simply some of the best Italian pizza in town. But Peppina also serves a variety of fresh salads, specialty cold cuts and hearty grilled meats.

27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-119-7677. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm-midnight

SMOKIN’ PUG L’ATELIER DE JOËL ROBUCHON

SMOKIN’ PUG

INTERNATIONAL FINE DINING GAGGAN After building a solid foundation in Indian and Italian cooking at hotel restaurants, Gaggan Anand did a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, the former modern-gastro capital of the world. His eponymous restaurant serving molecular Indian cooking ranked No. 1 in Asia’ 50 Best Restaurants 2015 and 10th in the world. Expect the unexpected like foams, spherification, dehydration and more alongside traditional dishes of Indian curry.

68/1 Lang Suan Rd., 02-652-1700. BTS Ratchadamri.

Open daily 6pm-midnight

L’ATELIER DE JOËL ROBUCHON Borrowing the same concepts from all L’Atelier branches, this elegant red and black space has diners seated around a large open kitchen, a format more remniscent of a sushi bar than classic

EAT ME

The brainchild of the American barbecue aficionados behind the 10-year-old Lazy Pug in Chengdu, China, specializes in the low-andslow smoking technique. The result is tender, aromatic meats like smoked buffalo wings, pulled pork (in sandwiches and chili) and full racks of baby back ribs. There are also colorful Tex-Mex dishes like smoked brisket quesadilla and citrus shrimp tacos. Don’t miss the equally smoky bourbon cocktails, either.

88 Surawong Rd., 083-029-7598. MRT Sam Yan. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight

QUINCE takebly French, though —free range quail stuffed with foie gras and potato purée and with all the finesse you’d expect from Joel Robuchon, the chef with the most Michelin stars in the world.

5/F, Mahanakorn Cube, 96 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0698. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm

EAT ME Ranked as the 25th of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, Chef Tim Butler’s kitchen pulls off bold combinations like Alaskan scallops with avocado, yuzu and pancetta, while a simple chicken salad is elevated to new heights by the addition of red papaya, toasted coconut and betel leaf. The decor is a cool, yet cozy, melange of modernist and natural, with rotating exhibitions by local artists.

The service is diligent and sweet, and the cocktails are perfection.

Quince serves up casual European food that’s light, fresh and bright (meaning local and seasonal) in portions that encourage sharing and eschew the formality of a traditional three-course dinner. Perfectly paired with the Mediterranean flavors, the faux-vintage brasserie meets idyllic country home atmosphere draws a crowd of beautiful people. Thanks to the very soild wine and cocktails menus, Quince is the kind of place that will make you want to stick around until late.

Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Mon-Fri 11-1am; Sat-Sun 10:30-1am

1/6 Soi Phiphat 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 3pm-1am

dining a la Francaise. The food remains unmisQUINCE

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AROUND THAILAND

CHIANG MAI The best new shops, cafes and galleries in the Lana Capital.

GRAPH TABLE

ARTSY OPENINGS

GALLERY KANG WAT

GALLERY KANG WAT

This rustic, home-style gallery hosts monthly exhibitions that showcase the work of emerging local artists. It has so far exhibited a series of watercolors by Taned Marneesri and hosted one photo exhibition by emerging photographer Apichai Wangtragul. Apart from the exhibition space, they also sell handmade goods such as postcards, notebooks and ceramics.

Opposite Wat Ram Poeng Rd., 095-691-0888. Open daily 10am-6pm

ARTTITUDE GALLERY

RISTR8TO LAB

ARTTITUDE GALLERY

COFFEE CULTURE

RISTR8TO LAB

ONE DAY DRIP

The original Doppio Ristr8to cafe’s claim to fame was head barista, Arnon Thitiprasert, who ranked sixth at the 2011 World Latte Art Championship. At this new laboratorystyle spin-off cafe, he showcases all the skills he’s learned from various coffeemaking competitions and research trips.

Expect to see cult drinks from the world’s coffee-making hubs like Melbourne and San Francisco, as well as boozy offerings such as the Ethiopian Monkey (hot mocha and creme the menthe) served in skull-shaped glasses. Be sure to stop by on a Sunday, when 16 different beans are roasted every week.

Tucked in a small alleyway close to the city’s much-loved North Gate Jazz establishment, this cool micro-cafe is pretty easy to miss at first glance, resembling a sprucedup street stall with one wooden table and small bar. Right now, they’re solely focused on single-origin brews made from carefully sourced local and international beans, but a house blend is in the works. Don’t hesitate to ask to smell or sample the beans prior to ordering, as this is actually encouraged by the owners. Apart from coffee, they also serve pastries accompanied by jam made from local seasonal fruits such as strawberry and pineapple.

Between Nimmanhemin Soi 3 and 5, 053-215-278.

Open Mon, Wed-Fri 7am-6pm

Sriphum Soi 4, 090-127-4560. Open daily 9am-8pm

Tucked between Nimmanhaemin soi 3 and 5, Arttitude Gallery not only serves coffee, but also specializes in sugar-free, 100-percent pure cold-pressed juices. And because they are health-focused folks, there isn’t any alcohol. The loft-style venue features plenty of wood and plants for a homey, airy feel. Don’t forget to check upstairs, where the owner sometimes hosts art exhibitions.

Nimmanhemin Soi 5, 052-002-202. Open daily 9am-6pm

THAPAE EAST With its raw, barn-like appeal, this bare-brick building is a welcome new addition to Chiang Mai’s art scene, hosting everything from live experimental music to film screenings and poetry nights. The venue also serves beer and fuss-free cocktails, as well as light finger food. Be sure to check their Facebook page for the weekly schedule and any performance updates.

88 Thapae Rd., 081-765-5246. Opening hours vary depnding on event schedule, available on www.facebook.com/ThapaeEast

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WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

DINING

NEW BARS

GRAPH TABLE

THE SERVICE 1921 RESTAURANT AND BAR

This restaurant offshoot of a popular coffee shop welcomes you with a dark wooden facade, window boxes and hanging plants. The kitchen serves mostly fresh homemade Italian cuisine made with organic local produce such as free-range eggs from Lamphun. For breakfast expect artfully named egg dishes such as Monet (mashed avocado on salsa salad), Post Modern (eggs Benedict with deboned emilano ham on toast) and Moonmuang (poached egg on toast with baked beans and grilled mushroom). Salads and pizzas round out the menu.

Moonmuang Soi 6, 086-567-3330. Open daily 9am-6pm

MEENA This semi-outdoor Thai restaurant adds a new twist to Thai and Asian dishes by substituting some of their staple ingredients with rice. There are five different types of rice to choose from, ranging from blue butterfly pea-infused grains to dark red organic rice berries. Dishes not to miss include the tempura shrimp, which is battered in rice instead of breadcrumbs, and the rice-based roti and ice cream for something sweet.

The bar sits in a restored colonial mansion that formerly served as the British Consulate of Chiang Mai. Reimagined as a hidden stronghold of the British government’s secret intelligence service, the venue is filled with fictitious spy paraphernalia, vintage lamps and other artifacts from the days of British teak logging interests up North, alongside colonial-style cabinets, leather armchairs and couches. The kitchen specializes in contemporary Thai, Chinese and Vietnamese dishes, while the bar focuses on cocktails with Asian twists. There’s also a separate whiskey and cigar lounge.

123 Charoenprathet Rd., 053-253-333. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm; 6pm-1am

SHOPPING

PLOEN RUDEE NIGHT MARKET At this favorite of Chiang Mai’s student crowd, you’ll find vendors selling handmade wares, accessories and clothing along with a large country-style food zone which hosts food trucks and pop-ups selling sushi, pizza, burgers and more. The venue also hosts live music performances.

Chan Klang Rd., 052-001-575. Open daily 4pm-midnight

KAD FARANG MALL For something more traditional, this large Lanna-style outdoor mall is home to various local boutiques, salons, restaurants, sports and music facilities as well as an outlet mall housing stores ranging from clothing to electronic goods.

225 Moo 13, Chiang Mai-Hod Rd., 053-430-552. Open 24 hrs

Baan Mon Mu 2, Soi 11, 087-177-0253. Open Mon-Tue; Thu-Sun 10am-5pm

LOCAL FAVORITES Away from all the new openings, here are the old places locals stay fiercely loyal to: Gao Linprasert Education Consultant “ Coffee is great almost everywhere in Chiang Mai, but I’m a regular at My Secret Cafe in Town (175 Ratchadamnoen Rd., 081-499-9911). The ambience is very laid-back, the coffee is great, and as a plus they serve some of the most delectable desserts. When I’m there, I’ll usually go for a hot Americano or latte. When it comes to lunch and dinner, you can never go wrong with Baan Suan Silp Cafe (25 Moo 3, Sanpheesuea, 080925-2878). Its artsy vibe nicely complements the Northern slow life and their inventive menu is also very tasty. There are many awesome places to grab a drink on Nimmanhemin Road that are all walking distance from one another, but if you don’t feel like hanging out with a younger crowd, a good choice is The Service 1921 Restaurant and Bar (see above) for some serious cocktails in a beautiful setting.”

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whereExploring DECEMBER 2015 | BANGKOK

CHINATOWN Chinatown used to be all about eating at the most time-worn restaurants in Bangkok and walking through moody, crumbling streets where traditional Sino-Thai home life spills into public sight. That’s all still there, but so are a cluster of the coolest new cocktail bars and galleries in town, attracting to the area a young, local and arty crowd with craft brews and vibrant live sounds.

TEP BAR

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 20 CHINATOWN

22 SIAM

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EXPLORING

CHINATOWN Y CHINATOWN’S TOP

STREET-FOOD STALLS

!7 Guay Tiew Kua Gai This gem, very well-known among locals, is hidden in a tiny alley and run by an old couple who have been serving one of the best guay tiew kua gai (fried noodles with chicken) for decades.

Yaowarat Soi 6. Open Wed-Mon, 7pm-1am

!8 Pa Jin Cockle Soi Texas Located in the middle of Soi Texas, this place has been specializing in boiled cockles and mussels for over 35 years.

!2 2ND YARD Opened in consultation with the guys behind one of Bangkok’s best-loved burger joints (Escapade Burgers and Shakes, 112 Phra Arthit Rd.), this deep, one-unit shop-house whips up big-portioned sandwiches with fillings like grilled pork neck with bacon and apple sauce. The drinks list is focused mainly on juice-based smoothies and black tea, though they still have a few rotating beers. Choose to sit either at the bar with the kitchen crew or in the more proper dining area out back.

Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd., 081-795-1839. Open daily Mon-Sat 6:30pm-1am, Sun 5pm-1am

763 Charoenkrung Rd., 095-898-8070. Open daily 4-11pm

SEE & DO Although many generations have passed since Chinese immigrants first moved to the area, Taoist culture still remains strong in Chinatown, giving this part of town a rich and unique history.

Using life-size models and audiovisual displays, the 1 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-623-3329, open Tue-Sun 8am5pm) details the history of Chinese migration to Thailand, as well as how the area now known as Chinatown began.

2 Wat Traimit (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-225-9775, open Tue-Sun 9am5pm) is not to be missed, home to the

WAT MANGKHON KAMALAWAT

world’s biggest seated Golden Buddha, which also happens to be the largest gold statue in the world. Built in the 14th century, it remains very sacred and is a popular site for locals during religious holidays. Nearby, you’ll find 3 Wat Mongkhon Kamalawat (Mangkorn Rd., 02-222-3975), which combines Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian figures.

A lot of devout Buddhist locals tend to practice here, so be sure to respect them as they perform their religious rituals. For a more tourist-friendly experience, head to the colorful old Chinese

Buddhist shrines at 4 Li Thi Miew (494 Plapphlachai Rd., 02-221-6985), where you’ll be welcomed with your camera at the ready—so long as you wear appropriate clothing. The most picturesque shrine in the area has to be 5 Guan Yin Shrine (600 Yaowarat Rd., 02-2372191), where a classically ornate Chinese building houses a 900-year-old statue of the Mahayana Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. Yaowarat is also known as a hub for gold trade. 6 Tang Toh Kang (Soi Vanit 1, 02-224-2422) gold shop dates back to the early 1900s and the reign of King Rama VI. Today, the seven-story late colonial-style building is still owned by its founding family, and in 2002 underwent a major renovation.

Although the shop still deals gold on a day-to-day basis, a section has also been converted into a museum for the public. Be sure to call ahead one day in advance as they don’t allow walk-in visitors for security reasons.

!9 Kuay Jub Nai Ek This place is known for its kuay jub, a hot dish composed of rolled noodles with crispy pork belly, blood and intestines served in peppery soup.

Yaowarat Rd., corner of Soi 11. Open daily 7pm-late

T&K SEAFOOD

@0 T&K Seafood and

R&L Seafood

Located opposite each other, these two restaurants are known for their fresh seafood dishes at reasonable prices.

Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd. Open daily 6pm-1am

WAT TRIAMMIT

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EXPLORING

CHINATOWN lip-smackingly good Punjabi recipes.

EAT Turn on your heels, because here Dining in Chinatown is all about they cook in true Indian grandmother old-school shop-house restaurants style—plenty of cream and ghee. And that have stood in the same spot for be sure to stock up on traditional Indi80 years or more. 7 Yim Yim (89 an sweets on your way out. The area’s Yaowaphanit Rd., 02-224-2203) is old-school tea and coffee houses are a venerable institution in Yaowarat’s also not to be missed. The 87-yearrich dining scene—which is to say it’s old !0 Eiah-Sae (1-103 Yaowarat some of the best Chinese food you’ll Rd., 081-868-9891) serves coffee get in Bangkok, despite the gloomy laced with condensed milk alongdecor and small, dark space. The goat side charming snacks like custard ham and cured fish are delicious. On on toast, soft-boiled eggs and toast a similar note, don’t be discouraged with butter, jam or chocolate spread, by the rats and cockroaches in the all charged at rock-bottom prices. alleyway leading to 8 Jok’s Kitchen (23 Soi Isara Nuphap, 02-221-4075), a small, menu-less establishment known as one of the hottest seats in town. Chef Jok presents course after course of things like steamed bass in soy sauce and fried rice with crabmeat to a packed dining room every night.

Dining here is done traditional Chinese-style, so come with a big enough party to fill one of the large round taDOUBLE DOGS bles. While Yaowarat is known for its Chinese food, the adjoining Pahurat !1 Double Dogs, (406 Yaowarat Rd., is home to a sizable Indian commu086-329-3075) meanwhile, specialnity, and 9 Royal India (392/1 ChakCharoen Krung Rd izes . in potent, properly brewed teas kaphet Rd., 02-221-6565) is simply from across the region. one of the best places in town for

DRINK Until recently, Chinatown was never on the nightlife radar. But a recent wave of new bars have been converting old shop-houses, both in Chinatown and the surrounding area. !2 El Chiringuito (221 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 086,-340-4791) has a charming retro ambience courtesy of reclaimed wooden furniture, classic sewing tables, old posters and an adorable chalkboard menu. The owner lived in Spain for six years, and the kitchen rolls out dishes like tortilla de patatas (omelet), patatas bravas (fried potatoes) and bocadillos (sandwiches). Wash it down with a Spanish Xoriguer gin. Just round the corner you’ll find one of the coolest craft cocktail lounges in town, !3 Teens

TEENS OF THAILAND

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of Thailand (76 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 081-443-3784), where a collection of arts, party organizers and phtographers gather to sip on gin-heavy drinks. On the same street, !4 Bar 23 (92 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 086-264-4471), has a nofrills atmosphere, and a soundtrack that flits between 90s Britpop and reggae, while !5Tep Bar (69-71 Soi Nana) dishes out heritage Thai food, drinks and music to a hip local crowd (see page 10). Or head up to the 25th floor of the !6 Grand China Hotel (215 Yaowarat Rd., 02-224-9977), where a revolving restaurant and bar offers 360-degree views of Chinatown and the river.

d

. MRT (underground train) to Hua Lamphong station and head to Exit 1. Follow the road over a footbridge that crosses the canal and you’ll be at Reaching Chinatown is easy. Simply take the the doorway to the area. See page 32 for a general map of Bangkok.

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EXPLORING

SIAM

Y HOT SPOTS

Siam’s Top 3 Restaurants

!8 Sra Bua By Kiin Kiin The Bangkokian sister of Copenhagen’s molecular gastronomy restaurant Kiin Kiin, which, after David Thompson’s London restaurant Nahm (now in Bangkok), became the second restaurant in the world to receive a Michelin star for cooking Thai food.

Lobby/F, Siam Kempinski Hotel, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. Open daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm. BTS Siam

NEW 5 A-VERY-WEAR Discover some of Asia’s coolest up-and-coming designers in this minuscule multi-label store.

Highlights include Singaporean streetwear label Mash-Up, who have collaborated with international brands like Uniqlo, Topshop and Lomography, and Korean womenswear brand Rocket x Lunch, who were recently featured in Who’s Next 2015 in Paris. In fact, Korean brands make up almost half the selection in store, with names like Fleamadonna, Low Classic, menswear specialists Drink Beer Save Water and accessories brand Minuit Moins Sept.

1/F, Siam Center, Rama 1. 02-658-0000. BTS Siam

S

iam sees huge malls like Siam Paragon and CentralWorld rub shoulders with trendy little boutiques hidden in a maze of streets populated by fashion-loving uni students. The area is also home to downtown Bangkok’s biggest cultural space, as well as the cheap electronics mecca of MBK. Here’s how to spend an entire day eating, shopping and drinking in this very modern Bangkok neighborhood.

SHOP The actual Siam Square (the area on the opposite side of the Skytrain to Siam Paragon and Siam Center malls) is divided into 11 alleys of miniscule shops rented to independent fashion brands and restaurants. It’s like a training ground for young Thai designers, before the best ones graduate to the fancier malls across the street. Highlights include the original branch of cult-label 1 Issue (Siam Square Soi 3, 02-658-4416), 2 Dancing Riot (Siam Square Soi 2, 02658-4863), minimal womenswear brand 3 WWA (Siam Square Soi 7, 02658-4686) and dapper men’s shoe specialist 4 Mango Mojito (Siam Square Soi 2, 02-658-1435). If Siam Square is Bangkok’s fashion nursery, then 5 Siam Center (Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000) is its graduating class, where the very best

SIAM CENTER

local labels can be found. On the third floor, shop for industry leaders like Greyhound, Kloset, Senada and Soda as well as younger brands including Milin and Something Boudoir—or let the multilabel stores Gin & Milk, The Selected and The Wonder Room pick the best for you. 6 Siam Paragon (991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-8000) also has a floor for Thai designers, but the real highlight is

its lavish VIP cinema and world class Sea Life aquarium. 7 Gaysorn Plaza (999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-1149) has luxury shops including Louis Vuitton and Prada, while you’ll also find high-end locally made craftsmanship at furniture specialist Alexander Lamont and luxury jewelry brand Matina Amanita. The biggest mall is 8 CentralWorld (Ratchadamri Rd., 02-640-7000), with more restaurants and shops than anywhere town. If you’re in the market for electronic goods, 9 MBK (444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000) is a mecca for cameras, phones and headphones (though beware of fakes) as well as watches and fashion of dubious pedigree.

8 Taling Pling This restaurant specializes in fussfree Thai dishes. Favorites include the delicious klua gling moo gradook on (Southern-style stir-fried baby back ribs with herbs), a perfect combination of salty and mildly spicy.

3/F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-613-1657. Open daily 10am-10pm.

BTS Chit Lom. Also at 6 Siam Paragon

!9 Thompson Bar & Restaurant Located at the end of a non-descript soi, in the same leafy compound as the Jim Thompson Thai House, Thompson Bar & Restaurant shares the traditional home’s refined atmosphere. The restaurant excels in Western and fusion recipes. Try their larb spagetti (spicy spaghetti salad) or stir-fried soft-shell crab with black pepper.

6/1 Soi Kasaemsan 2, 02-612-3601.

Open daily 10:30 am-6pm

MBK

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EXPLORING

SIAM

8 Red Sky Bar (02-100-1234), high up on the roof of Centara Grand at CentralWorld.

Soi 9, 02-251-5517), an 80-year-old diner that serves Chinese-style Thai food. For a bit of vernacular, !3 Baan Khun Mae (Siam Square Soi 8, 02658-4112) is set in a Thai-style wooden house serving traditional Thai dishes.

Some of the best Cantonese cusine in town is served at 6 Crystal Jade (G/F, Siam Paragon, 02-610-9363), while Michelin-star dumpling empire 8 Din Tai Fung (7/F, CentralWorld, 02-6461282) is renowned for its xiao long bao (soup-filled steamed dumplings).

BAANYING CAFE & MEAL

EAT

From khao-kaeng (street stalls that sell ready-made dishes on top of rice) to rooftop fine dining, Siam has it all.

For street eats, head to the little alley behind Novotel Hotel in Siam Square (between soi 5 and 6) or to the second floor of the Lido cinema (Siam Square, 02-251-2861). Siam Square is also home to the original branch of beloved comfort Thai food chain !0 Baanying Cafe & Meal (G/F, Siam Kit Building, 02-664-4510, also at Siam Center). !1 Somtam Nua (Siam Square Soi 5, 02-251-4880) is the area’s most iconic restaurant. Be prepared to wait with a long line of students to try their somtam (papaya salad) and legendary crispy chicken. Another Thai food landmark is !2 Seefah (Siam Square

SEE AND DO

DRINK

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

Siam Square is not a nightlife area at all. Most of the shops outside of malls close at 7pm. But there is a buzzing bar scene at Groove, the dedicated dining and nightlife annex at CentralWorld shopping mall. Here you’ll find niche beer bar 8 HOBS (02-613-1322), gastro-bar and cocktail specialist 8 1881 by Water Library (02-613-1774) and 8 Hyde & Seek Peek-a-Boo (02646-1099), the young offshoot of nearby Hyde & Seek (65/1 Athenee Residence, Soi Ruamrudee, 02-1685152)—another popular cocktail spot.

Cut through CentralWorld and you’ll be rewarded with incredible views at

!4 Jim Thompson House (Soi Kasem San 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368), the former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson, is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. The corner of Phayathai Road is also home to !5 Bangkok Art and Cultural Center (939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-2146630) where you’ll find exhibitions by local artists both new and established.

Inside you’ll also find the independent book store Bookmoby and Gallery Drip

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Cafe—both well worth a visit. The area also has two stunning religious sites. !6 Patumwanaram Temple is hidden between Siam Paragon and CentralWorld on Rama 1 Road. Even for Thais, this often-overlooked temple is a real treat, like something from the countryside transplanted to the city. Bangkok’s uniquely Hindu-influenced strain of Buddhism is evidenced at the !7 Erawan Shrine, located right outside Erawan shopping mall. The shrine represents Phra Phrom, Thailand’s representative of the Hindu god of creation.

Here you’ll find Thais from across the city coming to pray and make wishes (mostly for lovers)—but you have to hire the dance troupe if you want that wish to come true.

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ThewhereGuide DECEMBER 2015 | BANGKOK NEW

THE COURTYARD

One of the hottest spots in town right now is this century-old refurbished mansion next door to W Bangkok hotel. Out on its central courtyard, you’ll find much of the building’s original charm, prettily decked out with chic furniture that sticks to the overall vintage yellow and brown hues. The comforting, yet delicate dishes are whipped up by Turkish chef Fatih Tutak, but it’s their afternoon tea, which lets you go crazy with refreshing sorbet, scones, sandwiches and other delicacies with a choice of TWG tea, that’s the main highlight.

The House on Sathorn, 106 Sathorn Rd. Open daily noon-midnight. BTS Chong Nonsi

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 25 DINING 28 NIGHTLIFE

30 ART 32 SHOPPING

34 ATTRACTIONS 36 NAVIGATE

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GUIDE

DINING

Y

UPSTAIRS AT MIKKELLER NEW

Craft beer house Mikkeller pulls in a crowd devoted to tasting the finest hops from around the world in a laidback setting. But up on the second story of this leafy, converted family home you’ll find something quite different: a nine-course beer-pairing experience helmed by a former sous chef at Chicago’s three-Michelin-star Grace restaurant. He describes his food as progressive American, meaning a mix-and-match of techniques and ingredients unboundby geography. It’s only open Fri-Sat dinner time, and 3-4 days notice is recommended.

26 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-381-9891. Open Fri-Sat 6:30-10:30pm

Y SPOTLIGHT

Hot Spots GORGEOUS THAI RESTAURANTS

2

BLUE ELEPHANT

The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts.

Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authentic flavor. While more modern Thai restaurants have lately grabbed most column inches, Blue Elephant is still worth a visit for both atmosphere and food.

BLUE ELEPHANT

1 Supanniga Eating Room

233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Surasak

BUSSARACUM

The setting and presentation of the food at this classic Thai fine-dining restaurant are exquisite. Servers in traditional Thai costume and live khim performances complete the old-fashioned dining experience (it claims to be Bangkok’s first upscale Thai restaurant), as do royal cuisine touches like ornate fruit and vegetable carving.

Don’t miss the rare, traditional recipes like rhoom (minced pork and shrimp wrapped with egg net), luke tao (shrimp-stuffed mushrooms) and saengwa (grilled prawn salad with deep-fried catfish).

1 Si Wiang Rd., 02-266-6312/-6. Open daily 11am2pm, 5-10:30pm. BTS Surasak

This is one of the best Thai restaurants in town.

Cozy-yet-chic, it serves a menu based on dishes the owner’s grandmother used to cook—Thai food that borrows both from her hometown on the Eastern seaboard, Trat, and where the family now lives, Khon Kaen. Do try the moo cha muang (pork with Guttiferae tree leaves) and pla too tod (deep-fried mackerel), along with the cocktails and mocktails made with intriguing local ingredients.

160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7508.

Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm.

RUEN URAI

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RUEN URAI

This century-old house outfitted with beautiful antiques is just as stunning outside as inside. Paying homage to the original owner, who was a herbal medicine practitioner, the menu incorporates strong herbs and spices such as green peppercorn, wild ginger, galangal and turmeric. Ingredients are of high quality and the curry pastes taste like they’re made from scratch. We’re particularly drawn to the grilled river prawns with spicy galangal dressing and wild boar sauteed with spicy curry and herbs.

Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72.

Open daily noon-11pm. BTS Sala Daeng BUSSARACUM

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TASTEOFTHECITY

DINING HONG KONG Recent Openings

THEO MIO

The first foreign outpost for British chef Theo Randall.

G/F, InterContinental Bangkok, 973 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-0444

ROSEMARY BY MADAME TUANG

This celebrity chef opening spotlights European comfort food.

G/F, The Taste, Thonglor Soi 11, 02-7125998

M KRUB

The mastermind behind Chef Man serves up a modernized take on Chinese cuisine.

2/F, Mahanakhon Cube, 96 Narathiwas Rd., 02-019-8105. BTS Chong Nonsi

Advertise your business with us ­ starting from B5,000

KANG BAN PHE

One of Rayong’s, and indeed Thailand’s, best-known seafood sources, has brought its signature mantis shrimp to Bangkok.

20-20/1 Ruamrudee Village, Soi Ruam Rudi, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-019-0588. BTS Phloen Chit

Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Credit card payment accepted.

26 W H E R E T H A I LAND I DECEMBER 2 0 1 1 I www.wheretraveler.com

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GUIDE

DINING STREETSIDE FAVORITES

Pad Thai Thip Samai

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SALA RIM NAAM

The signature Thai restaurant of Bangkok’s most pedigreed hotel serves mild yet authentic flavors, with nods to Royal cuisine and an emphasis on quality ingredients. It’s set on the other side of the river from the main hotel, with a terrace that overlooks the water for alfresco dining. Recommended dishes include goong phad prik daeng (fried prawn with garlic and red chili sauce) and the massamun nuea (Southern-style beef curry with sweet potato and onion).

Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave., Charoenkrung Rd., 02-659-9000 ext 7333. Open daily noon-3pm, 5pm-midnight

Also known as Pad Thai Pratu Phee, this renowned one-dish specialist whips up some of the best pad Thai in town, and is of course, always busy so expect to wait for a table during prime dinner hours.

Try their most popular dish, the pad Thai hor khai goong (shrimp pad Thai wrapped in a thin egg crepe), washed down with a freshly-squeezed orange juice sold out front. Prices may be higher than your average shop-house eatery, but keep in mind your pad Thai will come with a generous serving of plump shrimp.

CHON

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CHON

The luxurious Siam Hotel is a destination in itself, and its signature restaurant, Chon, is no less beautiful than the rest of this sprawling, Art Deco-themed riverside mansion. The teak building was brought down river to Bangkok from Ayutthaya, Thailand’s ancient capital, and is filled with antique Buddhas and elegant pieces of furniture. The food is simple and authentic, with dishes that represent Thailand’s various culinary regions, from the curries of Chiang Mai to papaya salads of Isaan.

313-315 Mahachai Rd., Open Tue-Sun 5pm-2am SALA RIM NAAM

The Siam, 3/2 Khao Rd., 02-206-6999. Open daily noon-11pm. Ferry available from Taksin Pier (book ahead). BTS Saphan Taksin

Nai Mong Hoi Nang Thod A favorite of David Thompson, the mastermind behind the globally-renowned Nahm (see page 8), this third-generation oyster specialist only serves one dish and has been in business for over 40 years.

Their delicious oyster omelets are fried on an oldschool wok, along with a generous amounts of pork fat and tapioca flower to make for a rich, crispy and flavorful dish.

545 Plubpachai Rd., Open Mon-Wed 11am-9:30pm

Chote Chittr This longstanding shop-house has been serving Thai dishes since the Rama V era. Try their mee krob, which consists of crunchy vermicelli noodles topped with a tamarind-based sweet, spicy and sour sauce served with chicken, shrimp and tofu.

Also don’t miss their yum makua (spicy eggplant salad), washed down with a few shots of ya dong (traditional Thai herbal liquor).

146 Prang Puthon Rd., Open daily noon-9pm

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NIGHTLIFE NEW

SING SING

Prolific Bangkok-based Aussie designer Ashley Sutton (whose other bars like Maggie Choo’s, below, are also well worth a visit) expresses his Chinoiserie fetish here in a Hollywood vision of 1930s Shanghai that’s all lanterns, red lighting and elaborate metal screens. The petite dance floor acts as a hub for a network of mezzanines, sunken bars and Sutton’s trademark warren of secret passages leading to single-table balconies and speakeasy-style backrooms. Look for the drinks containing Iron Balls, Sutton’s own gin made here in Bangkok.

Sukhumvit Soi 45 (next to Quince), 097-285-6888.

Open daily 8pm-2am. BTS Phrom Phong

Hot Spots GAY BARS

DJ STATION

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DJ STATION

The grand dame of gay clubbing just never seems to get old. Packed to the point of making dancing near impossible on weekends, DJ Station has come to define Thailand’s gay nightlife for many visitors. The place is three stories tall. Most of the dancing takes place on the ground, with some guys going shirtless on stage. On the second floor, things are noticeably more cruise-y and boozy. As for the decor, the dim lighting hides a pretty run-down and barebones setup.

Silom Soi 2, 02-266-4029. Open daily 10pm-2am.

BTS Sala Daeng

2

THE STRANGER BAR AND LOUNGE

3

SUNDAYS AT MAGGIE CHOO’S

Evoking colonial outposts, the Pax Britannica of Queen Victoria, the decadence of opium dens and steamy exoticism, this bewitching bar hosts its weekly gay night every Sunday when topless hunks with rock-hard six packs replace the beautiful ladies in cheongsam dresses on the swings. Apart from sipping cocktails and mingling with the crowd, expect to laugh all night long when local drag sensation Pangina Heals takes the stage.

U/F, Novotel Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 091-772-2144.

Gay nights are every Sunday 7:30pm-2am.

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FAKE CLUB

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SOI TWILIGHT

Located just off of Surawong Road, this notorious street is filled with gay bars and restaurants, the most popular arguably being Classic Boys Club, a go-go bar known for their syncronized swimming shows held in a large tank at 11:30pm and midnight on Sundays. Upon entering the brightly-lit street, you’ll be swarmed by promoters trying to persuade you to enter their bars with drink specials, so be sure to ask to see the place first, before making any promises.

J O

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b

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B

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Between Surawong and Rama 4 Rd., bars usually open at 7:30 pm. MRT Silom

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Y SPOTLIGHT

This legendary gay club made a comeback at the beginning of the year after its original venue closed down. This new rendition has undergone a mega facelift to include a huge dance floor and world-class audio equipment. Enter the towering, neon-lit entrance and you’ll be greeted with opulent decor and tacky disco balls. The club has a rotating entertainment lineup that includes a live house band, one-off gigs, male model stage shows and special performances by local artists.

222/32, Ratchadaphisek Rd., 091-724-2999. Open daily 9pm-2am

Havana Social Going for a ‘40s-50s Havana high-life vibe, this hidden bar specializing in gin is Cuban pastiche done right: shuttered windows, spare lighting and crumbling walls spruced up with colorful tiles, murals and live Afro-Cuban music. The entrance is tucked inside a small alley opposite Fraser Suites. Find the telephone booth labeled “Telefono,” then call the place (on your modern-day smartphone) for the night’s unique entry code.

Tucked inside the vibrant Silom Soi 4, this two-story sit-down bar boasts fun-themed cocktails and attracts a modern, younger gay crowd. Although small in size, the bar is big in personality, with its glittery decor, feisty drink menu and sassy beats.

Silom Soi 4, 084-711-6477. Open daily 5:30pm2am. BTS Sala Daeng FAKE CLUB

Sukhumvit Soi 11, 087-066-7711. Open daily 6pm2am. BTS Nana

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Leomoo

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To leave you with something to remember the nights, Leo will also be giving out free tank tops for everyone as a special Christmas treat at both venues!

Leo Full Moon, Paradise, Sep 27, 2015

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ART

NATIONAL MUSEUM NEW

The charming front hall of the National Museum has recently undergone a stunning renovation to showcase the museum's most beautiful Buddhist treasures in a single room. Formerly the viceroy's palace, the front hall itself is highlighted by a monumental Buddha head from the Ayutthaya period that overlooks the whole exhibition space, while a stunningly graceful bronze Bodhisattva from the Srivijaya period takes center stage amid Khmer and Hindu sculptures. You'll also find carefully-kept smaller pieces ranging from Buddhist art to delicate Rattanakosin-era puppets.

4 Na Phrathat Rd., 02-224-1333. Open Wed-Sun and national holidays 9am-4pm

Hot Spots TOP EXHIBITIONS THIS MONTH

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BEND/ALTERED SPACE

A dual exhibition by Cory Williams and Allyson Ansusinha. Bend showcases the relationships between drawings, sculptures and paintings by bending metal shapes into different forms, while Altered Space uses various forms of string to translate the works from Bend into alternate forms.

Dec 19-Dec 30. Bridge, Charoenkrung Soi 51, 086986-9421. Open Mon, Wed-Sun 10am-10pm. BTS Saphan Taksin

FOR THE GOOD

This exhibition showcases a series of jewelry that symbolizes the tension between the past and an increasingly commercial and fast-paced present.

Through Dec 26, ATTA Gallery, 2-6 Charoenkrung Soi 36, 02-238-6422. Open Tue-Sat 1-7:30pm; Sat 2-6pm

BEAUTIFUL MYTH

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BEAUTIFUL MYTH

Contemporary artist Jamon Nimnark showcases oil paintings depicting the role of women in modern society influenced by the Renaissance period.

Through Jan 10, 2016. S.A.C. Subhashok, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-0299. Open Tue-Sat 10am5:30pm, Sun 12-6pm

D'UNBRAKEABLE TEAPOTS

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D’UNBREAKABLE TEAPOTS

Thai ceramic artist Surojana Sethabutra makes some of the most extraordinary pottery pieces in the country. This collection takes inspiration from the way moonlight changes throughout the evening.

Through Jan 16, 2016. Bangkok University Gallery, 2-4/F, Bangkok University International College Building 7, 119 Rama 4 Rd., 02-350-3626. Open Tue-Sat 10am-7pm

4

TRAVERSE

For his latest site-specific work, breakthrough sculptor Jedsada Tangtrakulwong has turned the upstairs of this popular art bar and gallery into two covered passageways out of materials recycled from other artworks.

Through Dec 3. WTF Bar & Gallery, 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. BTS Thong Lo

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HAPPY VASE

This exhibition showcases a collection of over 50 rare vases, dishes, plates, bowls and sculptures from the ‘50s-60s from France, Hungary and Spain, as well as a series of ceramic work from Japan.

Through Jan 3, 2016. Pandora Art Gallery, 10/4 Convent Rd., 02-635-5353. Open daily 11am-9pm.

BTS Sala Daeng

Bangkok City City Gallery This massive, purpose-built white cube right by Lumphini Park facilitates all forms of art, whether it’s paintings, video installations or live performances.

Its opening exhibition, for which it set up a maze of tunnels to display works by celebrated local cartoonist Wisut Ponnimit, was an instant smash.

The owners are young and rooted in Bangkok’s art, skateboard and design subcultures, ensuring a cool if sometimes clique-y crowd.

13/3 Sathorn Soi 1, 083-087-2725. Open daily 2pm-8pm.

MRT Lumphini

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ART+ ATTRACTIONS

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SHOPS+SERVICES NEW

GOOD DESIGN

Everything about the products in this unflinchingly cool boutique screams, “Take me home!” The perfect gallery lighting, the individual display stands, the little explanatory notes as if each item is a unique work of art—which isn’t far wrong since every one of them is decorated with one of Japan’s top design awards. Alongside icons of contemporary Japanese furniture like Sori Yanagi’s 1954 Butterfly Stool, you’ll also find easier-to-transport keepsakes such as the Kirimoto Wooden Craft Factory’s flawless lacquered business card holder.

4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd., 02-1605686. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

Hot Spots

1

BEST THAI-MADE GIFTS

5

ALEXANDER LAMONT

Drawing from his experiences living in both Europe and Asia, Alexander Lamont’s beautiful decor items successfully blend European techniques with the subtle mystique of Asian art. The materials, from bronze to stingray skin, are always luxurious and meticulously handcrafted by the local artisans under Alexander Lamont’s employ, ensuring that each piece of furniture is both unique and meaningful.

Room L2-01/1, 2/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5772. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

JIM THOMPSON

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JIM THOMPSON

The main store of this pioneering Thai silk brand stocks silk clothes and accessories across its significant three floors. The space is classic and palatial, paneled with teak from wall to wall, and shows off a range of elegant silks, from pillowcases and scarves to clubby neckties. There are other branches at Jim Thompson House (a mustvisit within the walking distance of BTS National Stadium) as well as various malls and five-star hotels around Bangkok.

YARNNAKARN ART & CRAFT STUDIO

2

YARNNAKARN ART & CRAFT STUDIO

Launched back in 2010, Yarnnakarn Art & Craft Studio is leading the new wave of Bangkok potters thanks to classical designs spruced up with bold finishes, like the all-white paint used on the petite Bonsai-friendly flowerpot. The products range from tableware to home decor items like vases, animal sculpture and frames.

Room 027-029, MRT Kampangpetch (Exit 1), Kamphaeng Phet Rd., 02-678-3877. Open Tue-Fri 11am6pm; Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. MRT Kamphaeng Phet

OTOP HERITAGE

One of a number of Thai craft shops under The One Tambon One Product (OTOP) brand, this store specializes in luxury items produced in Thailand. It features more than a thousand handicraft products selected from different producers around country, most of them home decorative items and fashion accessories. Other OTOP sites include OTOP The Walking Street in Silom (02635-7061) and OTOP The Avenue (096-231-2843) in Ramintra.

4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605975. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit

Y SPOTLIGHT

9 Surawong Rd., 02-632-8100. Open daily 9am9pm. BTS Sala Daeng

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FOUND BY TRIMODE

Trimode’s lead jewelry designer traveled to various provinces around Thailand to help contemporize traditional products, in collaboration with The Support Arts and Crafts International Centre of Thailand. The brand recently won the big prize at the Asia Talents 2014 segment of BIG+BIH for products like Doipui, a modern redesign of a traditional Hmong embroidered hat, and Nong Bua Daeng, hand-woven cotton hats and totes colored with natural indigo and ebony dyes.

ANOTHER STORY

Room 327-330, 3/F, The Wonder Room at Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 0-2658-1098. Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam

4/F, The Emquartier, Helix Building, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6138/9. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

This concept store gathers designer product from all over the world with a heavy focus on stationery and home decor. Along with international tech, fashion and design brands, there are also plenty of Thai names (Gray Ray, Labrador and Midori) as well as cute home decor pieces (look out for Plural Design, PDM Brand, Karv Design and Alltag). The huge space also has a deli with some to-die-for food.

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ATTRACTIONS VIMANMEK First time-visitors will most likely already be in awe of the beautiful garden inside the palace gates, but step inside the colossal mansion and you’ll realize that you can easily spend a whole day here, walking around the 31 exhibition rooms and taking in some of Thailand’s most prized photographs and artefacts, as well as King Rama V’s personal belongings ranging from elegant antique furniture to rare foreign memorabila. But it isn’t just the museum’s displays that will catch your eye­—the gorgeous teak structure itself boasts a great deal of colonial charm.

AKARAT AKWISAN

16 Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300. Open Tue-Sun 9:30am-3pm. www.vimanmek.com

Hot Spots CULTURAL SHOWS

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5

BAAN SILAPIN

Tucked behind a series of small streets, this 200-year-old canal-side wooden house offers an authentic experience of traditional Thai culture. The house formerly belonged to a merchant family, but is now home to a fellowship of artists who’ve transformed it into a public artist’s residence. Whether strolling around the ancient homes, sampling traditional drinks and desserts, shopping for art or just relaxing by the canal, you will feel a million miles from the hustle and bustle of Bangkok. Get there by 2pm to catch the daily puppet show (except Wednesday).

315 Wat Thongsala Ngam, Soi Petchakasm 28, Pasicharoen, 02-868-5279. Open Mon-Tue 10am-6pm, Wed-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat-Sun 9am-7pm

CALYPSO

The first Broadway-style cabaret show in Bangkok, founded in 1988, consists of 70 artists performing a diverse variety of cultural shows, from Arirang (Korean classic folk tale) to Kinnaree (classical Thai dance) to a contemporary burlesque act. It’s all massively kitsch and something of a Bangkok institution. Performances are held every day at 8:15pm and 9:45pm. Advance booking needed.

MUAY THAI AT RAJADAMNOEN STADIUM

3

MUAY THAI AT RAJADAMNOEN STADIUM

Asiatique the Riverfront, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02688-1415, BTS Saphan Taksin. www.calypsocabaret. com.

Y SPOTLIGHT

Thailand’s most famous Muay Thai stadium, dating back to 1941, is the definitive place to witness genuine, championship Thai boxing bouts. The beautiful art deco building holds matches for both amateurs and professionals three days a week, and is as popular with Thais as tourists. Foreigners are seated ringside, while the outer seats are occupied by hard-gambling locals— as much of a spectacle as the fighting.

Rachadamnoen Nork Rd., 02-281-4205, Open Mon, Wed, Thu 6:30-10pm; Sun 3-5pm, 6:30-10pm

SIAM NIRAMIT

2

SIAM NIRAMIT

This over-the-top visual spectacular draws on the histories of Thailand’s four main regions—the North, South, Central Plains and the Northeast—to present an 80-minute history of a nation that delves into its religious beliefs and major festivals. Expect plenty of state-of-the-art effects and a full, on-site replica village.

19 Tiamruammit Rd., 02-649-9222. Show starts at 8pm daily. www.siamniramit.com

4

MUAY THAI LIVE: THE LEGEND LIVES

This fast-paced live Thai boxing show is created and directed by Ekachai Uekrongtham, the artistic director of Action Theatre in Singapore and director of films like Beautiful Boxer and Pleasure Factory.

The stage show features more than just Thai kickboxing, throwing in plenty of swashbuckling action and a sprinkling of romance, all performed by former Muay Thai champs and national boxers.

Asiatique the Riverfront, Warehouse 4, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-5999, Tue-Sun 8-9:30pm. BTS Saphan Taksin . www.fb.com/muaythailive.bkk

Embassy Cineplex Tuck yourself in with a fluffy blanket and lean back on the roomy chairs while soaking up a film with your partner at this VIP cinema, boasting vogueish decor, state-of-the-art movie screens and sound systems, plus fully-stocked private minibars for every guest. There are five theaters in total, with seating options ranging from cocoon-style first class plane seats to private daybeds.

6/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5999.

Open daily 10am-2am. BTS Phloen Chit. www.embassycineplex.com

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ATTRACTIONS

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NAVIGATE

Phahon Yothin ¾ËÅâ¸Թ

Lat Phrao ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

Chatuchak Park Êǹ¨µØ¨Ñ¡Ã

Chao Phraya River áÁ‹¹้Ó਌ҾÃÐÂÒ

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BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

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MRT

5 Khao San Road

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Airport Rail Link (ARL)

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7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

!6 CentralWorld and Zen

8 Wat Pho

!7 Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

9 Wat Arun

!8 Central Chidlom, Central Embassy

Pier

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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

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Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service.

Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price.

There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS­ Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines.

Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130.

The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40.

There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak.

Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS­ While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 DECEMBER 2015 I W HER E THA ILA N D 37

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

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1 Exploring the beautiful grounds of the Grand Palace, a magnificent ancient landmark housing the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred Buddha image. See page 10.

6 Ordering a few beer towers with a group of friends at one of Bangkok’s many beer parks that only pop up during the festive season. See page 8.

2 Shopping for luxury silk products at Jim Thompson’s original store. See page 32.

most treasured Buddhist art pieces displayed in the National Museum, whose front hall recently underwent a stunning renovation. See page 30.

!8

!1 Stocking up on Thai handicraft !7 Savoring the authentic royal Thai souvenirs from all across the country at OTOP Heritage. See page 32.

rooftop bar located in one of Bangkok’s nightlife hubs. See page 6.

Stadium, the official home of champi-

temporary fashion at Siam Center.

8 Discovering Michelin-star-wor- onship muay Thai bouts. See page 34. See page 20. thy traditional Thai dishes at David Thompson’s Nahm. See page 12.

!4 Unwinding from a long day with a @0 Watching the sun set over Wat light jog at the city’s scenic Lumphini

the giant riverside development that’s home to shops, restaurants, bars and cultural performances. See page 6.

!0 Immersing ourselves in Thai5 Chowing down on a hearty plate of Chinese culture through the life-size pad Thai hor khai goong at Pad Thai Thip Samai, an old-school one-dish specialist tucked inside a shop-house near the hip Charoenkrung area. See page 27.

with authentic retro items at Talad Rod Fai night market. See page 6.

!3 Sitting ringside at Rajadamnern !9 Trying on locally-designed, con-

4 Getting a tension-relieving Thai 9 Spending an evening at Asiatique, Park. See page 6. massage at the spiritual home of the art, Wat Pho, also home to the 46-meter-long reclining Buddha. See page 10.

cuisine at Blue Elephant, a fine-dining institution set in a beautifully restored mansion. See page 25.

!2 Looking down at the city view with 7 Admiring some of Thailand’s a cocktail in hand at Above Eleven, a !8 Browsing the quirky stalls filled

3 Winning a round of drinks and a bottle of Champagne at one of the Silom area’s favorite gay bars, The Stranger. See page 28.

!2

7

wax displays and charming artifacts at the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center, a museum detailing Chinese migration to Thailand. See page 22.

Arun while sampling the delicious Thai food at the riverside hotel Sala Rattanakosin. See page 8.

!5 Leaning back on one of the spacious lounge chairs and relaxing underneath a cozy blanket at Embassy Cineplex, one of the city’s VIP cinemas. See page 34.

@1 Sipping super-strong cocktails with a bowl of rich Northern curry at Soul Food Mahanakorn, before tucking into their delicious durian-flavored ice cream. See page 13.

!6 Admiring the interactive art exhibition on the second floor of WTF before grabbing a round of drinks with the city’s coolest hipsters downstairs.

See page 30.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

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Mercure & Ibis Bangkok Siam The Metropolitan Bangkok Millennium Hilton Miracle Grand Convention Montien Riverside Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit Sukhumvit Novotel Bangkok Siam Square Novotel Bangkok Impact Oaks Bangkok Sathorn The Okura Prestige Bangkok Park Plaza Sukhumvit Pathumwan Princess The Peninsula Bangkok Phachara Suites Plaza Athénée Bangkok Pullman Bangkok King Power Radisson Blu Plaza Radisson Suites Bangkok Ramada Encore Bangkok Ramada Plaza Menam Riverside Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Riva Surya Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers Siam Kempinski Shangri-La Bangkok

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Shangri-La Chiang Mai Sheraton HuaHin Resort & Spa Sofitel So Huahin Tamarind Village Chiang Mai

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11/27/2558 BE 7:26 PM

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