Where® Thailand January 2012

j a n u a r y 2 0 12 the complete guide to go ®

Thailand ®

Raising The BAr

We head up to the rooftops to discover Bangkok’s best high-rise watering holes

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Cultured Chiang rai bangkok street eats design in the suburbs

PLUS YOUR ULTIMATE GUIDE TO BANGKOK

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contents where

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l THAILAND l january 2012 4 Hot Dates Thailand's hottest concerts, shows and events

the guide

Bangkok

18 arts+Culture Bangkok's top galleries and museums and this month's exhibition highlights

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20 dining Your A-Z to the best eats in town

Features 06 l Bars with a view Bangkok's best high-rise venues revealed

24 nightlife A new riverside bar with a nautical theme

25 Health+Wellness Where to go for a soothing spa

10 l Northern exposure Taking in the cultural side of Chiang Rai

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26 SHOPS+Services We head out to the Crystal Design Center

Escapes

30 Maps Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin

12 Northern Notes 14 eastern Mail 16 Andaman Arrivals

also inside 29 navigate

Managing Editor, Special Projects Nick Measures Editor Top Koaysomboon General Manager James Fuss Managing Editor Gr goire Glachant Sub-editor Mrigaa Sethi Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapong Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Manager Tipkritta Chiraporncharas

Senior Sales Associates, Where Napasnun Sawanrachai Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Orajira Sukkasem, Onwara Sittirug, Waranuch Thaneerat, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Duangruedee Amnuayweroj Senior Tele Sales Associate Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri

Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant

Marketing Manager Arunee Wilson Marketing Executive Narisa Pokunchanan Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul

On the Cover The Roof by Muse Cover Photo by Sanit Sangkaew

Finance Manager Thitiya Mintakhat Assistant Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmung Senior Accountant Kedsaraporn Suinta Accountant Donnapa Umnoursarn Contributors Melissa Davidson

Shanghai Email: shonline@asia-city. com.cn

Where Hong Kong Publishing Ltd. 301 Hollywood Centre 233 Hollywood Road, Hong Kong Tel: 852-2850-5065 Fax: 852-2543-1880 E-mail: where@asia-city.com.hk

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger Mvp | National Sales Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers

Where to find us!

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th

34 30 Things We Love

Where Singapore Publishing Ltd. Block 211 Henderson Rd. #14-03 Henderson Industrial Park, Singapore 159552 Tel: 65-6323-2512 Fax: 65-6323-2779 E-mail: where@asia-city.com.sg

Kuala Lumpur Pacific Tourism Communications Sdn Bhd Lot 2.44-2.45, 2nd Floor, Wisma Cosway, Jalan Raja Chulan, 50200 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Tel: 60-3-2144-4886 Fax: 60-3-2141-1911

For more information about Where, please email where@asia-city.co.th

Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson Mvp | Cartography And Circulation General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.

Com

Morris Comunications Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris Iii President William S. Morris Iv Mvp | Creative Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase

Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt Mvp | Technology & Manufacturing Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.

Com

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hot dates THAILAND

Jan 28-29 ROCKING PATTAYA The Silverlake Music Festival will be the very first of its kind in Thailand, a large international music event held at an equally large vineyard in Pattaya. This one-day event will host groups like Seether, Incubus, Anti-Flag, Akira Jimbo and Owl City alongside plenty of Thai talent: Modern Dog, Tattoo Colour and Slot Machine to name a few. Take advantage of the cooler weather left over from December to sit outdoors under a big blue sky and enjoy some world class rock-music. Silverlake Music Festival 2012, Pattaya. Noon-2am. Tickets are B1,500 available at Thaiticketmajor (www.thaiticketmajor.com).

Jan 23 CHINESE NEW YEAR This month, Thailand’s sizeable Chinese community will be celebrating in force as they usher in the year of Dragon. The best place to catch the festivities in Bangkok is to head to the center of it all, Bangkok’s Chinatown, along Yaowarat Road, where you’ll spot colorful dragon processions, lion acrobats, traditional dances, lanterns and fireworks. Events normally take place over a number of days so keep checking the TAT website (www. tourismthailand.org) for news of official celebrations. Last year also saw shopping mall CentralWorld host a food fair, shows and exhibitions of artefacts on loan from the Chinese government.

Jan 27-29 JAZZY JANUARY The 3rd Thailand Jazz Conference taking place in Bangkok this month promises to offer up a variety of the best local and international jazz musicians.

The event will feature daily concerts from top artists such as the Marcus Strickland Quartet and the Benny Green Trio, alongside discussion panels, workshops and lessons for any budding jazz artists or enthusiasts. To top off the three-day conference, there will be a solo competition during which competitors will perform improvised jazz sets to be judged by internationally recognized specialists. If you just want to be inspired and maybe pick up some new music, there will be a comprehensive offering of all things jazz; from musical instruments and parts to books and CDs. Held at College of Music Mahidol University, a three-day ticket is B2,000, one-day pass is B500, available from Thaiticketmajor (www.thaiticketmajor.com).

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Through Mar 14 FLORAL TRIBUTE Southeast Asia’s largest horticultural exposition the Royal Flora Ratchapruek returns to Chiang Mai for 99 days to celebrate the 84th birthday of HM King Bhumibol, HM the Queen’s 80th birthday and the Crown Prince’s 60th birthday. The theme for the event is “greentitude,” and the expo will feature cutting-edge horticultural technology that is helping to reduce global warming and improve quality of life. The 470-rai space of Ratchapruek Park will be overgrown, so to speak, with mini gardens created by more than 50 nations and organizations. Three new highlights this year are: The Imagination Light Garden, where solar-cells will be used to power an interactive light and sound show at night; The Giant Flora Wheel, which offers aerial views of the entire site; and, the Kid’s Eco Park, designed to create awareness about nature among the younger generation. Royal Flora Ratchapruek Park, Chiang Mai. A one-day ticket is B200, available at Thaiticketmajor (www.thaiticketmajor.com) and at the door.

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The High Life With the prospect of clear skies and cool breezes, January is the perfect month to head up to the city’s high-rise roofs and terraces to enjoy the views and the cocktails at Bangkok’s best rooftop bars.

THREE SIXTY

AmBar Having celebrated its first anniversary in December, AmBar is perched on the top floor of the Four Points Hotel. It makes up for its relative lack of height with a striking swimming pool as an alternative focal point. Blending contemporary designs with Middle Eastern details, it creates an energetic ambience to sip a cocktail poolside. 8/F, Four Points by Sheraton, Sukhumvit Soi 15, 02-309-3000. BTS Asoke. Open daily 11-1am.

Sky Bar

Balco

D Sens Bar

Sky Bar/Distil (Sirocco)

While there are plenty of bars overlooking the Chao Phraya, this hidden spot, tucked away on top of the River City Shopping Complex, offers something a little different from the usual hotel bars. Affordable drinks, an airy vibe and a unique river view make for a laid back rooftop option. 5/F, River City Shopping Complex, Charoen Krung Rd., 084-938-6161. Open Tue-Sun 7pm-2am.

Predominantly a restaurant, this uber chic spot does also have its own well-stocked bar with plush seating and a fantastic view over Lumpini Park. It might not be alfresco but the mood is super sophisticated. Oh, and the men’s toilets are pretty special as well.

22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000 ext. 2499. MRT Lumphini / BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10pm. www.dusit.com

You have two options depending on your ability to cope with heights: Distil has more limited views but some lovely laid back couches, while the colorfully illuminated Sky Bar seems to hang out over the edge of the 64th floor of this hotel to offer breath-taking (literally) views. 63-64/F, Le Bua Hotel at State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd, 02-624-9999.

Open daily 6pm-1am. www.lebua.com

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feature Long Table This glamorous spot still manages to be one of the funkiest rooftop options around, thanks to its striking opulence: from the glittering entrance lights, to the 24-meter dining table and the swimming pool. But they all play second fiddle to the impressive view of Bangkok’s skyline from the spacious open-air terrace balcony. 25/F, Column Building, 48 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-302-2557-9.

BTS Asoke. Open daily 5pm-2am. www. longtablebangkok.com

Moon Bar It was one of the first rooftop places in town and it’s still hard to beat the vertiginous 360 degree views offered up by this small alfresco bar atop the Banyan Tree Hotel. It does mean that it is already on many visitor’s radar and gets busy, but it’s worth it if you can snag a seat for sundown. Just check the weather first. 61/F, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21 South Sathorn Rd., 02-679-1200. MRT Lumpini.

Open daily 5pm-1am.

D SENS BAR

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NEST

Nest Now a fixture on the Sukhumvit nightlife scene, Nest offers a perfect blend of sexy sophistication and chill out chic. Lay back on one of their super comfy daybeds or slip into the cozy nest-like seating with a strong cocktail in hand while you enjoy the views of the night sky and the clubby vibe. Rooftop of LeFenix Hotel, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255-0638/9. Open daily 4pm-2am. www.nestbangkok.com

RED SKY

Red Sky Choose between two parts: the open-air mahogany-heavy martini bar and the large cushioned sofa sets of the sophisticated interior wine bar. The main talking point of this spot, aside from the views, has to be the two-story-tall wine cellar which is able to store over 2,000 bottles. 55/F, Centara Grand, CentralWorld, 99 Rama 1 Rd., 02100-1234. BTS Siam. Open daily 5pm-1am.

Three Sixty Located at the Millennium Hilton inside the weird UFO-like structure at its top, Three Sixty might be inside but it still offers a 360-degree view to die for. Catch the free boat to the other side of the river from Central Pier, and then head up to the 32nd floor to enjoy a glass of wine and a dose of easy listening jazz. 32/F, Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-442-2000.

Open daily 5pm-1am. www.hilton.com

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Roof by muse

The Garret

Roof by MUSE

The vibe here is casual sophistication, thanks to the lounge-y, prohibition-chic furniture and stylish setting out on the rooftop terrace. Their signature cocktail Granilla Vojito adds a scrumptious vanilla twist to a classic and the Richy (vodka with lychee juice) is a must try. Rooftop/F, Mini Showroom, Ekkamai Soi 7, 02-711-6999.

Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pmmidnight.

Bangkok’s most happening club has a secret­­­, its recently-completed rooftop garden—a space where the city’s trend setters chill out amidst lush vegetation, a minimal wood decor and live acoustic music. The drinks are the focus here so try a sangria alongside fancified comfort food like the foie gras burger. The overall concept makes it a good tranquil place for some pre-partying before hitting the neighborhood clubs. 159/8 Thonglor Soi 10, 089-988-5995. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-2am.

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Taste of Thai Sense another side of Siam culture with these Thai-inspired cocktails.

Tom Yum Yum Ingredients: Vodka infused with lemongrass, chili, galangal and kaffir lime leaves, fresh lime juice and lemon rind.

Flavors: With the aim of creating a truly Thai cocktail, the folks at Bar Su took their inspiration from Thailand’s most famous soup: tom yam kung. The lemongrass, chili, kaffir lime leaves and galangal are infused with vodka for two weeks before being mixed with the other ingredients. The result sees you sipping an icy version of everyone’s favorite Thai dish. The bartender manages to maintain as much of the original tastes of the soup as he can—that includes the heat—so be warned if you don’t do spicy.

B400 at Bar Su, G/F, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-6498888. BTS Asoke. Open daily 7:30pm2am. www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com

Thaijito Ingredients: Mekhong whiskey, brown sugar, fresh lemongrass, mint leaves, fresh lime, fresh ginger, lime juice and sugar syrup.

Bar su

Siam Mary

Hangovertini

Ingredients: Lemongrass, Thai basil, Thai chili, wasabi, fresh lime, coriander, tomato and vodka, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco and lemon juice.

Ingredients: Whiskey (Chivas 12 yrs), sweet vermouth, Zen green tea liquor, fresh green apple juice and rosemaryinfused honey, Martini Rosso, Angostura Bitters and homemade rosemary/honey infusion.

Flavors: The St. Regis’ Thai interpretation of the Bloody Mary (a cocktail the chain claims to have invented), the Siam Mary is inspired by flavors found in traditional Bangkok recipes. Despite the fact that it sounds like an indiscriminate mix of all things Thai, it tastes better than you’d imagine. The spiciness of the chili and wasabi is nicely balanced by the sourness of the lime and tomato juice and the presentation in a silver goblet is pretty striking, too. If you can handle tomatoes and spicy food, then this is a refreshing drink, rich in texture and with a nice lemongrass aroma.

Flavors: Created in honor of Le Bua’s starring role in 2011’s The Hangover II, the Hangovertini was allegedly made for the film’s production team at the end of long days on set. If you’re not a big whiskey fan, fear not. The taste and smell are masked by the apple juice and rosemaryinfused honey. Three spirits in one martini might seem a little hardcore, but you wouldn’t know it from the taste, which is refreshing and energizing. The green tea liquor is unusual and adds to the overall complexity.

B290 at St. Regis Bar, 12/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, 159 Rajadamri Rd., 02-2077777. BTS Rajadamri. Open daily 12pm1am. www.stregis.com

B490 at Sky Bar, 64/F, Le Bua Hotel at State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd., 02-6249999. Open daily 6pm-1am. www.lebua. com

Flavors: Thaijito is a signature drink of the Mandarin Oriental’s jazz bar, created more than 50 years ago by the former bartender.

The recipe has been handed down from generation to generation and it’s still one of the most popular tipples, especially for first time visitors. Thanks to the mint leaves and fresh lime juice it retains a refreshing taste, similar to the classic Mojito. Mekhong, an established Thai whiskey, happens to be the real deal, so it helps to create a distinct, rich taste you can’t find elsewhere.

B300 at Bamboo Bar, Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Charoenkrung Soi 40, 02659-9000. Open daily 11am-2am. www. mandarinoriental.com

Bamboo Bar

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AROUND THAILAND

Cultured Chiang Rai The northernmost province of Thailand offers heaps of art and heritage.

By Top Koaysomboon

WAT RONG KHUN

Chiang Rai’s status as a hot tourist destination has always been a little low-key—unless you love jungle treks. Still, it has a lot of draw for culture buffs. Being the birthplace of the Royal Projects (see box) and home to royal palaces, Chiang Rai was once the largest city in Thailand. It houses numerous temples with authentic Lanna architecture, as well as museums displaying precious relics once belonging to royal families and nobles. Navigate Chiang Rai’s ancient heritage with our roundup of temples and museums.

Wat Rong Khun

Also known as The White Temple, Wat Rong Khun is regarded as one of the most striking temples built in this century.

A masterpiece by artist Chalarmchai Kositpipat, famed for his extravagant and unique Buddhism-related paintings, Wat Rong Khun reflects his grand visions of heaven, hell and Nirvana. The construction started in 1997 and even the assembly hall is not yet completed: only two walls have been painted with a depiction of heaven and hell. Look closely and you’ll see images of international heroes like Spiderman, Sailor Moon and even Ben 10 hidden in the murals. When it’s completed (it could take another 50 years), the temple will have nine buildings.

Donations must not exceed B10,000 as Chalermchai doesn’t want to be under the influence of big donors.

Pa Or Donchai, 053-673-579. Open daily 6:30am-6pm. Free entry.

Baandum Museum

Opened 35 years ago, Baandum Museum (aka The Black House) belongs to National Artist Thawan Dachanee who is celebrated for his eerie sculptures.

Made from horns and bones, reptile skins, traditional African sculptures, old boats and Lanna-style woodcrafts, these art installations are housed across 32 buildings, most of which are Lanna-style pavilions made from black wood. If you’re lucky enough you might catch a glimspe of Tawan himself painting quietly in a corner of the museum. Don’t forget to stop at the gallery at the entrance to see Tawan’s own paintings, priced at B20 million each, all of which have technically been sold, but which are still exhibited here.

414 Moo 13, Nang Lae, 053-705-834.

Open daily 8:30am-noon, 1:30-4pm.

Free entry. www.tawan-duchanee.com

BAANDUM Museum

Mae Fah Luang Art & Cultural Park

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Around thailand

DOY DIN DAENG POTTERY

Doy Din Daeng Pottery

GOLDEN THRONE AT OUBKHAM

Mae Fah Luang Art & Cultural Park

The Mae Fah Luang Art and Cultural Park was established in 1977 as Rai Mae Fah Luang, by the Princess Mother, as a training camp for hilltribe youths appointed to lead their communities in royal development projects. The training camp was turned into an art and culture park three years ago to house collections of Lanna art. There are three main buildings: Haw Kham (Golden Pavilion) displays ancient Lanna teak artifacts; Haw Kham Noi has 19-century ancient mural paintings; and, Haw Kaew features permanent and rotating exhibitions utilizing teak wood.

313 Moo 7, Baan Pa Ngiew, Robwiang, 053-716-605/-7, 053-601-013. Open Tue-Sun 8:30am-4:30pm. Entry fee B200. www.maefahluang.org Lanna Culture Lanna is a term derived for the ancient Lanna Tai Kingdom centered in Northern Thailand from the 13-18th Century. It now denotes traditional culture and architectural styles that reflect this historic period.

Wat Phra Kaew

Probably the most sacred Lanna temple in Chiang Rai, the former Wat Pa Yiah was where the Emerald Buddha was apparently discovered after a lightning bolt split open a chedi in 1434. The Emerald Buddha was later moved to Lampang, Chiang Mai, Luang Prabang, Vientiane and then Bangkok, where it now resides.

In 1990, a new Buddha image was made from jade to replace the old one and to commemorate the 90th birthday of the Princess Mother. The temple itself is carved in a traditional Lanna style and is also home to Hongluang Saengkaew Museum where precious ancient Buddhist items are displayed.

19 Moo 1, Wiang, 053-711-385. Open daily 7am-6pm, museum daily 9am5pm. Free entry. www.watphrakaewchiangrai.com

Royal Projects Numerous village-based community social and agricultural projects set up by memebers of the Thai Royal family to aid the lives of hill tribes people.

After years spent learning the art of Japanese-style pottery-making with ceramics master Nakazato Tarouemon, Thai artist Somluk Pantibun returned home to set up his own studio in the middle of a forest in 1991. Doy Din Daeng Pottery features interesting ceramics in natural colors and asymmetrical shapes.

All products are handmade so prices can range from a few hundred baht for a dish to thousands for large-scale pieces.

49 Moo 6, Nanglae, 053-705-291. Open Mon-Sat 8am-5pm. Free entry. www. dddpottery.com

Oubkham Museum

Lesser known than other cultural destinations, this museum does offer a comprehensive thousand-year history of the Tai people and Lanna culture. It does so through private collections of ancient artifacts, textiles, Buddha images and everyday items belonging to Julasak Suriyachai, who is descended from an old Lanna royal family. The highlight is the 400-year-old golden throne of the Tai Yai royals from the Shan State in Myanmar, which is regarded as the only one of its kind left in the world.

81/1 Na Khai Rd., Rob Wiang, 053713-349, 081-992-0342. Open daily 8am-5pm. Entry fee B300. www. oubkhammuseum.com

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Northen Notes

New hotels, special events and great promos from Chiang Mai and beyond

137 Pillars House

Y Floral package

THE RIM

Y Pillar of the Community

If you want a real taste of living history then head over to the east bank of the Mae Ping River to explore the centuriesold Wat Gate community. Located at the heart of this charming neighborhood, formerly the trading hub for the city, is the beautiful former residence of the manager of the British East Borneo Company. Built from teak wood in a colonial style, the mansion has recently been renovated and transformed into Chiang Mai’s newest

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luxury boutique hotel—137 Pillars House.

The height of exclusivity, there are only four suites, with each one sporting a blend of Victorian and Thai touches and ranging from 70-135 sq meters in size. Guests will also enjoy a select list of eateries and a wine bar, spa, gym, and swimming pool.

Introductory rates start from US$400 (B12,333).

2 Na Wat Gate Road Soi 1, Wat Gate, Muang, Chiang Mai, 053-247-788, 081553-4871. www.137pillarshouse.com

If you do fancy heading up to Chiang Mai for the ongoing Royal Flora Ratchapruek (see page 4), then you could do a lot worse than take advantage of a special deal being offered by The Rim, one of Chiang Mai’s newest boutique hotel offerings. The two-night package, featuring daily breakfast, roundtrip airport transfer, tickets to the Expo and free minibar, is B6,600 net for a superior room and B9,100 for a deluxe; through Mar 15.

Sat in Chiang Mai’s old town, close to historic temples and the Sunday walking street, the Rim’s woodwork is carved in a vintage Lanna style that reminds us of traditional buildings found in Luang Prabang. It features 36 guestrooms detailed with wood, warm colors, and local artifacts, while the canal side restaurant serves up Asian cuisine as well as a wide selection of cocktails.

51/2 Arrak Rd., Phra Singha, Muang, Chiang Mai, 053-903-999. www. therimchiangmai.com

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CHiang Rai Flower Festival

TAMARIND VILLAGE

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When a Thai banking tycoon visited the quiet northern town of Nan, and fell in love with its peaceful ambiance and charming reminder of Lanna culture, he decided to buy the 50-year-old wooden Nanfa Hotel, located right in the heart of the town. After two years of painstaking restoration, which cost B50 million, the Nanfa has become the 14-room Pukha Nanfa Hotel. Though most of the old wooden structures have been preserved, traditional paintings, expensive Lannastyle amenities and Pasaya (a famed Thai fabric brand) bed sheets have been added, making this easily the most luxurious hotel in town. Rates are B2,500-4,600 with breakfast during the high season which runs until Feb 28.

369 Sumondevaraj Rd., Mueng, Nan, 054-771-111, www.pukhananfahotel. co.th

Y Flower Power Take 2

If the Royal Flora Ratchapruek Expo hasn’t quenched your thirst for all things floral (see page 4), travel further north to Chiang Rai for the eighth annual Chiang Rai Flower Festival which runs until Mar 3 at Nam Kok Riverside Park near Chalermphrakiat Bridge. There will be rare plants from overseas, and thanks to the chilly weather of Chiang Rai, even colorful winter flowers like tulips, lilies and begonias. There will also be flower competitions, an OTOP (locally made goods) fair and a beauty pageant. The festival is a pre-celebration ahead of the upcoming festivities for Chiang Rai’s 750th anniversary.

More information at Chiang Rai Administrative Office, 053-601-235, 053-601-758 and TAT Chiang Rai, 053744-674/5, 053-717-433.

PUKHA NANFA HOTEL

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Through the end of this month, Chiang Mai’s Tamarind Village, named after the century-old tamarind tree the hotel was built under, is hosting the fifth installment of The Journey of Jewelry Past, Present and Beyond exhibition series. The “Dream of the North” exhibition features jewelry and art pieces crafted by nine local designers who combine Lanna artifacts and styles with modern designs. If you want to linger longer amid the hotel’s vintage ambiance, then rates start from B4,200 through Mar 31, and from B3,800 during Apr 1-Oct 31. It’s a good place to stay over the weekend as the hotel is literally located on the doorstep of Chiang Mai’s ever popular Sunday walking street.

Ratchadamnoen Rd., Muang, Chiang Mai, 053-418-896/-9. www. tamarindvillage.com

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Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya

Eastern Mail The latest travel-related news from the Gulf of Thailand

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If you’re down in the royal beach town, the InterContinental Hua Hin Resort has just added another reason to extend your stay until Sunday. The five-star resort has just introduced their Sunday Champagne brunch featuring imported oysters, foiegras, Wagyu beef and a lot more. We’re most excited about the free-flow DuvalLeroy Champagne, Spy Valley Sauvigon Blanc and Majellla The Musician CabernetShiraz. Guests can enjoy these fine wines and delicacies amid the colonial ambiance of one of Hua Hin’s most atmospheric hotels. The brunch is B1,699 per person while the free flow Champagne and wine is just an additional B99.

Reservations recommended.

InterContinental Hua Hin, Petchakasem Rd., Hua Hin, Prachuab Khirikhan, 032616-999. rsvn@ichuahin.com, www. intercontinental.com/huahin

A signature of Pattaya’s beachfront strip, Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya has just celebrated its 10th anniversary with a total revamp. The 15-month-long renovation is now finished and guests will see a younger, brighter and savvier decor throughout the hotel’s rooms and public areas. Its beachfront Hard Rock Cafe also unveils its new look yet promises the same old fun: great live music, tasty food and a very well-stocked bar. As part of the celebrations they offer promotional room rates starting from B3,364 per night (reduced from the usual B6,500).

429 Moo 9, Pattaya Beach Rd., Pattaya, Chonburi, 038-428-755/-9. pattaya. hardrockhotels.net

brunch at intercontinental hua hin

Intercontinental Hua Hin Resort

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ESCAPES Y Cast Away Northern mountains and Southern beaches should remain busy throughout Jan-Feb, so it might be a good idea for visitors to escape to the East. Hard to get to, Koh Kood should remain fairly quiet throughout the high season making the three-day “Amazing Koh Kood” package, from the Away Koh Kood, particuarly attractive. The deal includes two nights, six meals, roundtrip ferry transfers from Trat’s mainland, and one choice of activity (4-hour snorkeling, 4-hour waterfall trip, 2-hour Thai massage or 1.5-hour aromatherapy massage). The package is B6,500 per person per package for twin sharing (so B13,000 per couple) till Mar 31 and B5,500 during Apr 1-Oct 31.

Koh Kood, Trat, 081-835-4517. www.awayresorts.com

Y New Nova Luxury Thai hotel brand Centara seems to have no plans to stop expanding and have just opened their latest hotel right in the heart of downtown Pattaya. The

Nova Hotel and Spa Pattaya is part of their luxury boutique hotel category and features 79 rooms and suites, decked out in a modern contemporary style with Thai touches, each with a private balcony that overlooks the swimming pool. The hotel’s Spa Cenvaree prepares a wide range of treatments, including its signature dead sea mud massage. It’s located a short walk from the beach and main nightlife district.

Introductory rates are from B3,250 through Jan 10, and from B2,470 during Jan 11-Mar 31.

Pattaya 2 Rd., Central Pattaya, Chonburi, 02-101-1234 ext. 1. www. centarahotelsresorts.

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Away Koh Kood

It can be tricky finding something to do in Pattaya, aside from the infamous nightlife of course. But now there’s the Na Kluea Walking Street, back for a third consecutive year. The historic kilometer-long street will turn into an open-air market where locals open their shophouses and offer a variety of goods and foods, together with some cultural performances. The bazaar takes place every Sat-Sun, 4-10pm, until Jan 29.

Na Kluea Rd., North Pattaya, Chonburi. www.pattaya.go.th

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Banyan tree Spa Sanctuary phuket

Andaman Arrivals

Re Ka TA CLUB

What’s hot in and around Phuket

Y Boathouse Bar

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Phuket has just welcomed a new beach club to its shores. Situated on Kata Beach, Re Ka Ta Club, is part of the luxurious Boathouse Phuket’s grand renovation.

Designed by Balinese architect Fredo Taffin, the beach club sports a tropical design and features a swimming pool, a lounge, a beachfront cocktail bar, a holistic spa, a restaurant and a boutique—so you can easily spend the whole day there.

There’s also a high-end sound system ready for upcoming parties hosted by guest DJs. Definitely the new place to see and to be seen on the island.

Boathouse Phuket, Kata Beach, Phuket, 076-330-421.

Luxury hotel brand the Banyan Tree knows that for many, a dream holiday is truly getting away from it all and recharging the batteries in a peaceful setting. Their response is to launch the Banyan Tree Spa Sanctuary Phuket, an extension of the luxurious Banyan Tree Resort Phuket which opened back in 1994. All 14 pool villas are decked out in classic Thai style and come fully equipped with all the fivestar amenities you could want, including private pool, steam room and spa beds for in-room treatments. The introductory Spa Discovery package starts from B28,800 (US$922) per night, inclusive of daily breakfast, daily wake-up massage, and a 60-minute therapeutic massage per person per stay. Packages valid through Mar 31.

Laguna Phuket, Bangtao Beach, Phuket, 076-324-374. www.banyantree.com

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Spa Cenvaree

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The luxury Thai spa brand Spa Cenvaree has just unveiled its latest branch at the Centara Anda Dhevi Resort and Spa in Krabi province. Offering a wide range of treatments derived from ancient Thai rituals, the spa’s signature treatment is the Anda Dhevi Signature Massage (B1,295) that combines Swedish and deep tissue massage with compressed herbal coconut oil. Newlyweds might enjoy the Niran Nirvana couple package, specially designed for brides and grooms.

Jurlique products are used for every facial treatment, along with the very best ingredients in their scrub and massage menus, to ensure suitably soothing results.

Centara Anda Dhevi Resort, Ao Nang, Krabi, 075-626-222. www.spacenvaree. com

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where

the guide ART

Beneath the Veneer: Photographer Stephen Albair’s latest series features set-ups of various everyday scenes using wax dolls to explore how what we see on the surface can often hide darker realities. Through Jan 31. Thavibu Gallery, Room 308, 3/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Rd., 02-266-5454.

arts + CULTURE..................................... 18-19 dining........................................................20-23 nightlife.........................................................24

health + wellness..................................25 shops + services.................................26-27

navigate.........................................................29 map..............................................................30-33

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Art+Culture BANGKOK

Art Exhibition Highlights

Charles LaBelle­— Hong Kong based, American artist Charles LaBelle displays 300 architectural drawings and drawing installations of some of the thousands of buildings that he has visited and attempted to document in his lifetime. Through-Jan 21.

Number One Gallery, Room B-15, The Silom Galleria, Silom Soi 19, 081-684-6577.

ART GALLERIES 100 TONSON GALLERY ­— With a prime location and well designed space this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-6841527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com ARDEL GALLERY OF MODERN ART ­— This vast 720 square meter space hosts events ranging from visual to performing arts. It also has an outdoor space, a cafe and runs art workshops, discussions, and seminars. 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd (Km 10.5), 02-4222092. Open Tue-Sat 10:30am-7pm, Sun 10:30am-5:30pm. www.ardelgallery.com BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTRE (BACC) ­— The city’s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art related shops in its impressive 11-story structure. 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th BANGKOK SCULPTURE CENTRE ­— The threestory, studio-office-cum-gallery houses over 250 privately owned sculptures and is open twice a month to the public. PM Center Bldg., Nuanchan Soi 56, Pradit Manoothan Rd., 02791-9400 ext 320. Open every 2nd and 4th Sat 10am-4pm. www.bangkoksculpturecenter.org

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See Saw Seen IV - The fourth in a series of photo exhibitions sponsored by Sony Thai, featuring the work of 16 leading local and inter photographers like Charit Pusiri, Steven Pettifor, Tul Hirunyalawan and Ampannee Satoh. Through Jan 22. DOB Hualamphong Gallery, 4/F, DOB Building, 318 Rama 4 Rd., 02-237-5592/4.

Primitive ­— The latest project by 2010 Cannes Palme d’Or winning director, Apichatpong Weerasethakul is a multiple video installation blending memories of a village’s insurgency alongside fictional sequences. Through Feb 29.

6 Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd, 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. www. jimthompsonhouse.com

FOREIGN CORRESPONDENTS CLUB OF THAILAND (FCCT) ­— A popular spot for the city’s journalists; the FCCT also hosts occasional exhibitions of photojournalism as well as running talks and film screenings. Penthouse, Maneeya Centre, Phloenchit Rd., 02-652-0580-1. BTS Chit Lom. Open Mon-Fri 10am-11pm. www. fccthai.com GOSSIP GALLERY & TEO + NAMFAH GALLERY ­— A multifaceted space showcasing contemporary pieces from local and international artists. 3/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-237-5568.

BTS Surasak. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. gossipgallerybkk72.com H GALLERY ­— Located in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions aiming to represent emerging contemporary Asian artists. 201, Sathorn Soi 12, 081-310-4428. BTS Surasak. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm. www.hgallerybkk.com JIM THOMPSON ART CENTRE ­— Set above the shop in the grounds of the famous American’s beautifully preserved former home, this lofty space puts on excellent temporary exhibitions. 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. www. jimthompsonhouse.com KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY — ­ This four floor gallery, which includes a specialist bookstore, focuses on promoting the work of up and coming local photographers. 87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd., 02-234-6700. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open Tue-Sun 11am-7pm. www.kathmandu-bkk.com

KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY

LA LANTA FINE ART ­— This gallery offers contemporary artworks by international and upand-coming artists. 245/14, Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-260-5381, 02-204-0583. BTS Phrom Phong.

Open Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun by appointment only. www.lalanta.com NATIONAL GALLERY ­— Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd, 02281-2224, 02-282-2639- 40. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www.national-gallery.go.th NOSPACE GALLERY — ­ This avante garde art space in the nightlife strip of RCA offers challenging exhibitions and acts as a venue for regular cutting edge live music events. 21/108 Block D, Royal City Avenue (RCA), 02-641-4040. Open Mon-Tue 11am-7pm; Wed-Sun 11-1am. www. nospacebkk.com

Art+Culture NUMBER 1 GALLERY — This contemporary 300 square metre gallery supports Thai art through monthly exhibitions featuring emerging and established talent and senior National Artists. B1, Silom Galleria, 919/1, Silom Soi 19, 02-630-3381. BTS Surasak.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 11am-6pm. www.number1gallery.com THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — With 3,700 sq.m., and a café, the focus here is often on royal and religious themes. 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-281-5360/1. Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. www.queengallery.org SERINDIA GALLERY — Run by a publishing company in a lovely building in a lifestyle plaza, this gallery looks to focus on the art and culture of Asia, specifically the Himalayan region. OP Garden, Unit 3101-3201, 4-6 Soi Charoen Krung 36, 02-238-6410. Open TueSun 11am-8pm. www.serindiagallery.com SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — More of a shop than a gallery, this space stocks over 10,000 fine, modern and contemporary Thai art works. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02254-6040. Open daily 9am-8pm. www. sombatpermpoongallery.com

V64 — Over 60 artists from section 7 at Chatuchak Weekend Market teamed up to transform a three-acre space into a large art center, which features studios, a gallery, an art academy, shop and restaurant. 143/19 Chaengwattana Soi 1 Yak 6, Bhangkhen. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.v64artstudio.com WHITESPACE GALLERY — Founded by an American architect and Thai artist Maitree Siriboon, the narrow space at this design studio provides a platform for the works of emerging artists. 2/F, Lido Bldg, 260 Siam Square Soi 3, 02-252-2900. BTS Siam. Open Tue-Fri 1pm7pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am-8pm. www.whitespcegallery.com WTF GALLERY & CAFÉ — Part retro bar part gallery, the two top floors (and often the alleyway outside) are dedicated to exhibitions from local and international artists seldom seen elsewhere. There is also an additional space over the road at Opposite. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. BTS Thong Lo. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. www.wtfbangkok.com

TANG CONTEMPORARY ART ­— A spin off from sister galleries in Hong Kong and Beijing, Tang is known for promoting contemporary Chinese art as well as local artists. Unit B-28 (Basement), Silom Galleria 919/1, Silom Soi 19, 02-630-1114. BTS Surasak. Open Mon-Sat 11am 7pm. www.tangcontemporary.com THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTRE (TCDC)­— This center is home to a big art library as well as temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint.

6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02664-8488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-9pm. www.tcdc.or.th

TCDC

THAVIBU GALLERY — This gallery is primarily focused on exhibiting Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese art, though they do carry other artworks. Suite 308, 3/F Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-266-5454. BTS Surasak.

Open Mon-Sat 11am-7pm. www.thavibu.com TOOT YUNG GALLERY — A gallery-cum-barcum-café-cum-book shop, aiming to provide a platform for local artists. 19 Prachathipratai Rd., 084-914-5499. Open Mon-Sun 2pm8pm. www.tootyunggallery.com GALLERY VER — Owned by renowned artist Rirkrit Tiravanija this gallery promotes experimental and conceptual art from local and overseas artists. 194 Tanao Rd., 02-622-0117. Open daily 1-7pm. http://ver.mono.net.

some of the most extraordinary architecture, art and antiques of the country. Don’t miss the restored courtyards with their fragrant gardens. Na Phrathat Rd., 02-215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. Admission: B50. www. nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM — Eight of the over 50 barges that make up the royal processions are displayed here. The must-see is the Suphannahong, or Golden Swan, with its huge, golden figurehead prow. Pinklao Bridge Pier, Thonburi, 02-424-0004. Open daily 9am5pm. Admission: B30.

SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household once belonged to their Royal Highnesses Prince and Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga. Its eight Thai-style houses showcase sculptures, furniture, and traditional instruments from the Rama V period. 02-354 Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-246-1775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. Admission: B100. www.suanpakkad.com VIMANMEK PALACE — With 12 separate museums in the compound, you could easily spend the day here. The site houses the royal museums of photography, clocks, textiles and silk, but the gorgeous teak buildings are the real draw. Strict dresscode (see their website for details). Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300/-9.

Open daily 9:30am-4pm. Admission: B100. www.vimanmek.com

wtf

MUSEUMS JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk, Jim Thompson, is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. Admission: B100 for adults, B50 for students and children. www.jimthompsonhouse.com KAMTHIENG HOUSE — ­ This 200-year-old Northern Thai Lanna style wooden house contains a collection of traditional agricultural tools and sits in the grounds of the Siam Society, which also holds regular lectures, seminars and workshops. Siam Society, 131 Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asoke), 02-661-6470. BTS Asoke. Open Tue-Sat. 9am-5pm. Admission: B100 for adults, B50 for children. www. siamsociety.org MUSEUM SIAM ­— The old Ministry of Commerce is now an innovative, technologydriven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-225-2777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission: B300. www. museumsiam.com NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous property houses JANUARY 2012 I WHERE Thail a n d 19

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dining BANGKOK

WATER LIBRARY

LA SCALA

DOWNTOWN BUSSARACUM— Thai. $$-$$$ It might have recently relocated to a lovely old house but this old favorite maintains its focus on classic Royal Thai cuisine. 1 Sri Wang Rd. (Off Soi Pramuan), Sathorn Rd., 02-235-7341-3. BTS Surasak. Open daily 11am-2pm and 6pm-midnight. celadon — Thai. $$$$ Surrounded by lotus ponds, Celadon’s Thai pavilion contains elegant candlelit interiors that help accentuate the refined set menus, such as the seven-course Bai Horapa set.

71/1 Sala Daeng Soi 1/1, Silom Rd., 02-234-2226.

MRT Silom. Open daily 11:30am-11pm.

D’Sens — French. $$$$ The French-imported eatery by the Michelin starred Pourcel brothers has all the oomph one might expect. The dimly lit dining room is ultra chic and the food is bold and exciting. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946, Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000 ext. 2499. BTS Sala Daeng.

Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10pm.

Eat Me — International. $$$$ The decor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic. The kitchen pulls off bold combinations and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng.

Open daily 3pm-1am.

Zanotti — Italian. $$$$ A favorite haunt among power brokers and visitors, Zanotti serves up authentic Piedmontese cuisine made from top ingredients. 1/F, Sala Daeng Colonnade, 21/1 Soi Sala Daeng, 02-636-0002. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6pm-midnight.

La Scala — Italian. $$$$ The design by Ed Tuttle is resolutely contemporary and Asian, the ideal backdrop for the rustically tinged Italian cuisine.

The Sukhothai Bangkok, 13/3 Sathorn Rd., 02344-8888. Open daily noon-3pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

Water Library — International. $$$-$$$$ The use of steel, glass and grey wood is striking without being cold. There’s a long water menu, and some outstanding dishes. 2/F, Chamchuri Square, Phaya Thai Rd., 02-160-5188/9.

MRT SamYan. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-9:30pm.

Nahm — Thai. $$$$ Former holder of a Michelin star, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of delicious and authentic choices. Metropolitan, Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open daily noon-2pm, 7-11pm.

Niu’s — Italian. $$$$ Muted tones, crisp white tablecloths and large windows let the inventive and delicious Italian food take center stage. Niu’s also has an extensive wine list and top name jazz acts downstairs. 1-2/F, Baan Silom, 661 Silom Rd., 02-266-5333. BTS Surasak. Open daily 5pm-1am.

Serina — Japanese. $$$$ The sets and a la carte menu are special, but it’s also the superb food’s supporting cast— the beautiful crockery, the stern waitresses in kimonos—that makes Serina such a great venue. 9/26, Soi Jim Thompson, Surawong Rd., 02-235-8382. BTS Sala Daeng. Open MonFri 11am-2pm; daily 5:30-10:30pm.

Ruen Urai — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in a century-old Thai house, decorated in a tasteful blend of contemporary furniture and rare Thai crafts, Ruen Urai has a polished menu of solid recipes and high quality ingredients. Rose Hotel, 188, Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm.

D’Sens

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Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$

Under B400 B400-700 B700-1,000 B1,000 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Area guide Downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods Lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 Upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

dining THONG LOR/ EKKAMAI 6th Fratello — Italian. $$$-$$$$ The food shows imagination and dedication to fresh ingredients, and the chefs’ pride in their work transfers to the knowledgeable staff. 40/25 Ekkamai Soi 12, 02-391-9946. Open Tue-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm.

Khun Churn — Thai/Vegetarian. $-$$ This family-run eatery, tucked away in the relatively quiet Bangkok Mediplex, has a classy yet casual atmosphere and serves up a menu of downto-earth yet delicious meat-free Thai meals.

G/F, Bangkok Mediplex Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 42, 02-713-6599. Open daily 10am-8pm

4 Garcons — French. $$$ Cooked by a Thai doctor, this is classic French fare served in a warm and elegant atmosphere. 1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thong Lor 13, 02-713-9547. Open daily 11:30am10:30pm.

Bonjour — French. $$$$ Fine French dishes served up in a bourgeois villa that boasts velvet lounge chairs and a small tropical garden. 1217/2 Sukhumvit Soi 59, 02-714-2112. BTS Thong Lor. Open daily 6pm-1am.

Phuket Town

Phuket town — Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional and spicy Southern-style dishes like kanom chine namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that has plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches.

Thonglor Soi 6, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-7149402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm.

Red — Indian. $$$ A chic, contemporary spot with cool gray walls and some red accents.

The kitchen claims a fusion of India-meetsthe-West creations, though the menu is largely Indian classics. 124 Thong Lor Soi 9, 02-2597590. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm.

Soul Food Mahanakorn — Thai. $$-$$$ Soul Food is solid on both fronts: it dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails as well as a brief menu of perfectly executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect on the hip crowd and the place gets packed most nights.

56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lor. Open daily 6pm-midnight.

Vientiane Kitchen — Lao. $$ Vientiane Kitchen boasts fun and authentic Laotian dining in a quirky setting. The traditional musicians play dreamy wavering notes round the base of the magnificent tree in the center of the restaurant. The friendly wait staff in Vientiane wear is more than willing to arrange a less-spicy somtam for you. 8 Sukhumvit Soi 36, 02-258-6171. Open daily noon-midnight.

Xuan mai — Vietnamese. $$$ Probably the best Vietnamese restaurant in Bangkok, this is where former beauty queen-then-FBI agent chef Meyung Robson sources the best ingredients, often direct from Vietnam, and cooks them perfectly from traditional recipes. Try the bahn mo thit (Vietnamese sandwich) and cha ca Hanoi (grilled cat fish). 351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-185-2619.

Open Tue-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 11:30am-midnight; Sun 11:30am-10pm.

Bonjour Red

Fuzio — Italian. $$$$ Classic Italian recipes are mixed with just enough modern touches to suit the locale and clientele. A rooftop location and contemporary decor make for a special experience. 6/F, Mini Showroom, 99/99 Ekkamai Soi 7, 02-711-6999. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm.

Fuzio

Harvey — American, International. $$$$ The upstairs private rooms are often fully booked by the rich and famous, and the downstairs dining room and bar are usually buzzing. As for the food, it encompasses interpretations of American, French and Italian. 129 Thong Lor Soi 9, 02-712-9911. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-11pm.

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dining Plaza, 888/26 Phloenchit Rd., 02-650-9581. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-10pm.

Shintaro ­— Japanese. $$$ Located in a corner of the high-end hotel, this cozy restaurant draws a glam crowd. The food is equally trendy with dishes like sushi-pizza and California rolls. G/F, Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-2516127. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5-10:30pm.

Kuppa — International. $$$ Best-known as a lunch venue, Kuppa’s reliable menu of pastas, salads, desserts and great coffee has changed little over the years. Throw in comfy couches and floor-toceiling windows and you’ve got one chill spot. 39 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-663-0495, 02-663-8806.

Open daily 10am-10:30pm.

Bamee moo daeng

Le Beaulieu — French. $$$$ The venue itself, with its cathedral like foyer/bar and intimate sky blue-ceilinged dining room, is small but grand.

The menu is similarly ambitious, featuring four pages of wonderfully tasting French dishes. Asoke Residence Grand Mercure Building, 50 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-204-2004. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

STREET TREAT >

Sukhumvit Soi 38

Thai cuisine with its intriguing (if sometimes bewildering) blends of spices, aromas and flavors is justifiably famous the world over, which is why visitors to Bangkok are so keen to try the real thing for themselves. While there are plenty of good Thai restaurants in the city, if you want the real deal then you have to hit the streets. Stalls and carts are literally everywhere but for a simple, central spot that has a good range of dishes, your best bet is to head to Sukhumvit Soi 38 (by BTS Thong Lo) after 7pm. On this side street you’ll find a host of stalls offering everything from a classic pad thai to a bowl of bamee moo daeng (egg noodles with roast pork). Personally, we love the sweet treats here: don’t miss the mango sticky rice from the stall in a small alley on the right hand side as you enter the soi; or try the cheng sim ii, a ThaiChinese dessert featuring a mix of nuts and longan juice, available at one of the last stalls on the left hand side of the street. Sukhumvit Soi 38, Sukhumvit Rd. BTS Thong Lor. Tue-Sun 7pm-1/2am.

Lower Sukhumvit 11 Gallery — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34, Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am.

Gaggan ­— Indian. $$$$ After a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02652-1700. BTS Chit Lom. 6pm-midnight.

Boqueria — European. $$$$ This venue keeps its focus on classic European dishes with a Mediterranean leaning. G/F, CRC Tower, All Season Place, 87/2 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., 02-685-3930/1. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm.

Erawan tea room ­— Thai. $$$$ With classy oriental decor, five star service and fine tea selection, Erawan Tea Room also impresses with its authentic Thai dishes and monthly themed menus. 2/F, Erawan Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02254-1234. Open daily 10am-10pm.

Gianni Ristorante — Italian. $$$$ “Gianni’s,” as it’s referred to by most, has earned this affection with consistently outstanding food, an elegant atmosphere and smooth service. 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-252-1619, 02-652-2922. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm.

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Le Beaulieu

Medici — Italian. $$$$ Tuscan-born chef Francesco Lenzi whips up his hometown’s specialties surrounded by a neo-industrial interior that is reminiscent of 1910 Chicago. Hotel Muse, 55/555 Langsuan Rd., 02-630-4006. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm. 6pm-midnight.

Reflexions — French. $$$$ Elegant but edgy, with its raw black and white photographs of Bangkok, Reflexions is authentic French food without the stuffiness. Chef Thibault Chiumenti cooks with an eye for tradition and bold flavors. 3/F, Plaza Athénée, 61 Witthayu(Wireless) Rd., 02-6508800. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm.

ROSAbieng — Thai. $-$$ This two-storey wooden house-turned-restaurant is a great place for those seeking an introduction to Thai food thanks to its broad menu of properly executed standard dishes.

3 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-253-5868. BTS Nana.

Open Mon-Sat 11am-11pm.

Gaggan

Grossi TrattoriA — ­ Italian. $$$$ Backed by celeb-Australian chef Guy Grossi, it maintains his focus on earthy cuisine. This is no hotel restaurant—thanks to its bistro-vibe and soaring ceilings. G/F, Intercontinental Hotel, 973 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-0444. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 6:30-10:45pm.

La Monita Taqueria ­— Mexican. $$ Handsdown the best place for a quesadilla or fish taco.

The decor and service aren’t much, but you won’t care after your third reposado margarita. Mahatun

Seafood Bar — Seafood. $$$ Owned by an oyster importer, this restaurant features 20 types of oysters and a range of perfectly grilled fish dishes cooked with a modern American approach.

Somerset Lake Place, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02663-8863, Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun noon-3pm, 6-10pm. BTS Asok.

Snapper — Seafood. $$ This laidback and minimally-nautical restaurant with its picnic style benches and tables, specializes in sustainably fished New Zealand seafood and interesting fish and chips. 1/22 Sukhumvit Soi 11, BTS Nana. 02651-1098. Open Tue-Sun, 5pm-midnight.

dining Upper Sukhumvit Bacco — ­ Italian. $$$ This relaxed, slightly rustic and always noisy eatery packs in the diners nightly, thanks to its extensive menu of authentic regional specialties. 35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-662-4538. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pm-midnight; SatSun11:30am-midnight.

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Indus ­— Indian. $$$ An ambient spot with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen at Indus also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279.

Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm.

Curries and More by Baan Kanitha ­— Thai. $$$-$$$$ Choose from the hip glass and metal wine bar or the beautiful cream colored colonial house to enjoy dishes that range from traditional favorites to fusion offerings like their tom yam Caesar salad. 31 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-259-8530-5. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 11am-11pm.

Koi ­— Fusion, Japanese. $$$$ A favorite of Thai and international celebrities, this place has a wonderfully seductive yet minimalist vibe. The food is fusion, more LA Japan Town than Japan.

26 Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-663-4990. Open MonSat 6pm-midnight.

Ma du zi Restaurant by Yuyai ­— Japanese. $$$ With a stint at a Joel Robuchon restaurant in Tokyo, Japanese Chef Yuya Okuda’s food is very recognizably French, only very light, very subtle and with seamless exotic touches. Maduzi Hotel, 9/1 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-615-6400. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm.

BACCO

Bo.Lan ­— Thai. $$$ Chefs Bo and Dylan offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a stylish house-turned-restaurant. They recommend the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes seasonally. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962.

Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pm- midnight.

Bo. Lan

Enoteca ­— Italian. $$$$ This tavern is a charming little place, with its brightly-lit front yard, but its bold dishes are testament to Enoteca’s high ambitions. 39 Sukhumvit Soi 27, 02-258-4386.

MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 5:30pm-midnight.

ISao ­— Japanese. $$$-$$$$ Despite the standard izakaya facade, Isao offers something different— Japanese cuisine with American twists, thanks to the chef’s years of apprenticeship at Green Tea sushi bar in Chicago. Try the sushi sandwich (spicy tuna and salmon in sushi rice and crispy tempura flakes) and winter maki (crab meat, shrimp, avocado and carrot wrapped in thinly sliced cucumber). 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-2580645/6. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:3010pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm.

Philippe ­— French. $$$$ Enjoy classic French fare, a stately decor and good wine while rubbing shoulders with the local bigwigs. Its affordable three-course set lunch is another reason to visit.

20/15-17 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-259-4577/8.

BTS Phrom Phong. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2pm; daily 6-10pm.

Riverside China House — ­ Chinese. $$$$ This is one sexy place: the tiny aquamarine bar, the deep red and black lacquers, the films playing in the toilets, and while there are cheaper places with greater reputations, China House is still a winning blend of style and substance. Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

Le Normandie — ­ French. $$$$ The Mandarin Oriental’s showcase restaurant needs little introduction. For years it has set the standard for service and cuisine—and the breathtaking river views aren’t bad. The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm; daily 7-10:30pm.

Mei Jiang ­— Chinese. $$$$ This elegant establishment overlooking the Chao Phraya river offers one of the best dim sum experiences in town. The food is authentic Cantonese, while the service is knowledgeable and courteous. The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-861-2888. BTS Saphan Taksin. Open daily 11:30am 2:30pm, 6-10:30pm.

MEI Jiang

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nightlife BANGKOK

IRON FAIRIES

Downtown Bed Supperclub — Bangkok’s leading club, the space age interior, is divided into two sides— the restaurant, which offers creative food and cutting-edge performances; and the club, which sees beautiful people dancing to everything from house to d’n’b. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537.

Open daily 7pm-2am. www.bedsupperclub.com Hyde & Seek — Elevated pub grub, arguably Bangkok’s best cocktail menu and a décor that conjures up both Victorian drawing room gravitas and NYC sophistication—it’s no wonder this place is so popular. Athenee Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-168-5152-3. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am.

The St Regis Bar — A great New York Mad Men vibe and impressive views this spot also boasts a daily Champagne sabre ritual and their Thai take on the Bloody Mary. 12/F St. Regis Hotel, 159 Rachadamri Rd., 02-207-7777. BTS Rajadamri.

Open daily from noon-1pm. www.stregis.com

Wine Republic — They take their vino seriously here, with a wall of bottles and informed staff to talk you through your purchase. The dark spit and sawdust interior and breezy outdoor terrace get very busy at weekends. Thong Lor Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7599. Open daily 5:30pm-1am.

Thong Lor/Ekkamai Clouds — The futuristic vision is certainly striking: from the undulating ceiling, sporting anything from roses to dolls, to the acrylic seating inset with leaves. Potent cocktails from the laboratory of a bar add to the techno-eco-inspired theme.

G/F, Seenspace, 251/1 Thong Lor Soi 13, 02-1852365. Open daily 6pm-2am.

Fat Gut’z Saloon — Sitting on the corner of the small lifestyle mall, this hole-in-the-wall reminds us of a New Orleans speakeasy, with its dark panelled walls and matching furniture.

A blues-fuelled band, interesting cocktails and fish n’ chips are the house specials. 1/F, Grass Thonglor, 264 Thong Lor Soi 12, 02-714-9832.

BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-2am.

Oskar — A comforting menu, a long list of cheap drinks and a great DJ mean this bistro, in the heart of club land, has fast become a popular spot for pre-club drinks. 24, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255 3377. Open daily 6-11pm.

Iron Fairies — Like no other bar in Bangkok. It actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling blackened brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies.

A great live band and powerful cocktails make this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thong Lor), 084-520-2301. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am.

Q Bar — The Soi 11 institution continues to deliver a heady mix of bass lines and international DJs. The remodelled 2nd floor, with a large outdoor patio, means it’s now also a great spot to kick back with friends while the facelifted downstairs, featuring a serious dance floor and three new bars is perfect for serious beat and booze addicts. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-3274. Open daily 8pm-1am.

Mellow — Another popular spot that combines dining and drinking (it’s the Thai way), Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, well-off locals.

They’re attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor involving beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort menu and the delicious cocktails.

1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thong Lor Soi 16, 02-3820064. Open daily 11-1am.

Hyde & seek

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New: Viva & Aviv Fitting for its riverside location, this new venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nautically-inspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy the range of inventive cocktails created by the masterminds behind the established Hyde & Seek. Try the signature: Pina Colasi (Appleton rum, pineapple, coconut foam and more). River City Complex, Yota Rd., 02-639-6305. Open daily 11am-midnight. www.vivaaviv.com

HEALTH + WELLNESS BANGKOK traditional thai massage

Wat Po

SPA BODY TUNE — The “menu” here is short, sweet and to the point: foot reflexology, hand, Thai and oil massage. But what they do, they do well.

We prefer the quieter Silom branch. Silom: 56 Yada Bldg., 2/F, Silom Rd., 02-238-4377. BTS Sala Daeng. Sukhumvit: 49 Sahai Place Bldg., Sukhumvit 24, 02-661-0077. BTS Phrom Phong.

Open daily 10am-midnight. www.bodytune.co.th I.SAWAN — With its Tony Chi design, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club and its residential cottages and treatment bungalows is one of the most beautiful in Bangkok. It also houses a fitness club, tennis and squash courts and a 25-m pool.

5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am-11pm. www. bangkok.grand.hyatt.com

A major tourist attraction, Wat Po is just as as famous for its massage school as it is for its 46-meter-long Reclining Buddha. Never mind that there’s usually a wait and little privacy once you’re inside. Massage treatments at this traditional Thai massage school attract many people who want the real deal. Wat Po’s history as a center for Thai massage dates back to 1843 when King Rama III commissioned 60 diagrams depicting various massage techniques to be inscribed on the temple’s marble walls. If you feel inspired to learn the art yourself, enroll in the temple’s training classes.

Wat Po (Wat Prachetuphon), 2 Sanamchai Rd., Phra Nakhon, 02-225-4771. Open daily 8am-6pm. www.watpomassage.com LET’S RELAX — With branches in tourist destinations around Thailand, and a wide variety of packages and trained massueses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa brand. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-6626935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight.

More branches: www.letsrelaxspa.com MULBERRY SPA — Set in a 60s-style residential compound, Mulberry Spa offers all the usual selection of treatments amid a classy-yet-cozy ambiance. 132 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1888.

MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 9am-11pm. Silom branch: 346/8-10 Silom Rd., 02-630-9888.

BTS Sala Daeng Open daily 10am-10pm. www. mulberryspa.com THE ORIENTAL SPA — As sophisticated as the hotel is sits within, The Oriental Spa, offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge range of treatments covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. www. mandarinoriental.com/bangkok/spa PaNPURI ORGANIC SPA — Hidden behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of the high-end spa.

The small but beautiful space welcomes you with black stone and gold mosaics and a range of treatments using exclusive organic products.

Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-6561199. Open daily 10-8pm. www.panpuri.com

S MEDICAL SPA — Founded by a renowned local anti-aging physician, the award-winning spa creates real beauty from within, with a selection of integrated wellness programs. 2/2 Bhakdi Bldg., Wireless Rd., 02-253-1010. BTS Ploenchit.

Open daily 10am-9pm. www.smedspa.com SPA@tonson — This resort style spa includes nine treatment rooms and utilizes ancient Asian healing techniques through a range of treatments. The highlight has to be the special 4-hand massage. 5F, Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-658-7980.

BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-9pm. www. spatonson.com

spa@tonson

SPA BOTANICA — Surrounded by the lush gardens of the Sukothai Hotel, Spa Botanica is an urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best of oriental massage options. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd, 02-2344-8900.

Open daily 9am-10pm. www.sukhothai.com THANN SANCTUARY SPA — THANN Sanctuary offers a range of treatments based on THANN world class spa products within a tranquil space bathed in warm grey and soothing lights. 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10-9pm. www.thann.info TRIA — Tria is not just a spa: this sanctuary hidden behind Piyavate Hospital is a rejuvenation center offering integrated programs. With over 50 treatment rooms, there are also hydrotherapy pools, a restaurant and residences for long-term treatments. 998 Ronkhlongsamsen Rd., 02-6602602. Open Mon-Fri 7-10am. Closes Sat 9pm, Sun 8:30pm. www.triaintegrativewellness.com URBAN RETREAT — Urban Retreat’s various branches offer relaxing havens from the city in the middle of town. 31/10 Soi Phromjai, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-204-2008/9. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.urbanretreatspa.net

i.sawan

ELEMIS SPA — The Elemis Spa is a first in SE Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the ancient Arabian sauna in their Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-2077777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.stregis.com/bangkok HEALTH LAND — Health Land has built its sizeable reputation on a blend of affordable prices, expert masseuses and select surroundings. Lots of branches throughout town also helps. 120 North Sathorn Rd. , 02-637-8883. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 9am-11pm. More branches: www.healthlandspa.com JANUARY 2012 I WHERE t hail a n d 25

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ShopS+Services BANGKOK

Terminal 21

Downtown Amarin Plaza — ­ The Greco-Roman facade of this mall actually hides some unexpected gems. ID1 on the first floor holds an interesting collection of local fashion designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the 3rd floor is good for souvenirs. 496-502 Ploenchit Rd., 02-6504704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com

Gaysorn ­— Thailand’s leading high-end mall, Gaysorn’s soaring roof is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Celine) and unique Thai brands like Sretsis, Disara, Cloud 9, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1149. BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com

Pantip Plaza ­— A heaven for tech and IT lovers the rather grungy-looking seven floors are dedicated to gadgets and gizmos. You’ll find countless little stalls selling computers, laptops, mobile phones, printers, mainboards, cameras, electronic appliances and selections of bootleg DVDs. Not all of it is legitimate but most items are usually a lot cheaper than elsewhere. 604/3 Petchaburi Rd., 02-250-1555. BTS Ratchathewi. www.pantipplaza.com

Central Chidlom ­— The closest thing Bangkok has to Harrod’s, Central Chidlom first opened in 1973 and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. All eight floors are packed with leading brands like Bottega Venetta, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the impressive Food Hall on the ground floor, and the views from the international food court, Food Loft, up on the 7th. 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th

Platinum Fashion Mall — ­ Platinum Mall is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping central.

Though not unique, Platinum does seem to be the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashionrelated from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about the wholesale bit, as even single items are very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. BTS Ratchathewi. www. platinumfashionmall.com

CentralWorld — ­ SE Asia’s largest lifestyle shopping complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000 sq meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for top brands like Topshop, Gap and Uniqlo as well as Thai favorites like Singha Life and Disaya.

Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www. centralworld.co.th Erawan Bangkok — ­ This mini shopping mall might look petite but its three floors offers some high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including unique Club 21 stores like Yohji Yamamoto, Dior Homme and Lanvin. 494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com GAYSORN Gaysorn

26 W H E R E th a i l a n d I JANUARY 2012

MBK Center ­— Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, perfumes, cameras, watches, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and all at bargain prices. As a result,­the confusing chaos of MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good. Still it’s fun and there’s a decent Thai food court on the 6th floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000.

BTS National Stadium. www.mbk-center.co.th

Siam Center — ­ One of the longest standing shopping malls in Bangkok, it remains a favorite with teen shoppers thanks to a recent facelift and the cool cutting-edge local brands that call it home. Siam on Third on the third floor features established Thai fashion designers while Mob.F on the fourth lets the new wave showcase their work. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamcenter.co.th

ShopS+Services Siam Paragon ­— With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge range of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to high street favorites like Mango and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World, South East Asia’s biggest aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a cinema. As well as lots of restaurants, there’s also a food court in the basement.

991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamparagon.co.th Siam Discovery Center ­— The sister mall of Siam Center just celebrated its 10th anniversary with a total refit, which included the addition of lots of new eateries on the Sky Dining floors as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussuad’s wax museum. It also remains the place to come for Thai furniture brands, international fashion designers and Japanese gift-store Loft. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamdiscoverycenter.co.th

Sukhumvit The Emporium ­— Set in the heart of the city’s upscale residential area (home to Bangkok’s largest Japanese community), The Emporium offers luxury shopping without the crowds, thanks to their tenant portfolio which includes brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Fendi, Gucci and Prada, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal, Thann and Jim Thompson. There are also lot of eating options (the food court has great views) a cinema and the Thailand Creative Design Center, which has a library and holds regular exhibitions. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www. emporiumthailand.com Terminal 21 ­— Bangkok’s newest shopping complex boasts an airport terminal-cuminternational destinations theme. As you travel through the nine floors you can stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high street chains, while the higher floors offer a host of intriguing boutiques by young Thai designers. There’s a good food court and restaurants on the 6th and 7th floors and a cinema at the top. 2-88, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21.co.th

Crystal Design Center ­

Crystal Design Center

Walks Charoen Krung Road (New Road) — ­ Start from River City, which is both a mini-mall and auction house with a focus on Asian antiques where you could get anything from Burmese lacquerware to a pair of Thai Naga snakes. On your way down Captain Bush Lane, swing by the small row of warehouses home to PTendercool (massive, sculptural tables made locally) and Warp 54 Studio (pop portraits with an Asian focus). On Charoen Krung Road itself, you’ll walk past a multitude of antiques, jewelery and tailor shops catering to the riverside hotels’ guests—beautiful stuff, but it doesn’t come cheap. Pop into O.P. Place for a visit to Serindia Gallery (a top-notch showcase of mostly Tibetan and Himalayan art and photography), then make your way to The Mandarin Oriental where Lotus Art de Vivre stocks some of the most refined craftsmanship in Thailand.

Markets Chatuchak Market — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is one of the world’s largest weekend markets. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space which is broken down into 27 sections roughly categorized by the products on offer. You can literally spend

Aiming to be SE Asia’s premier shopping spot for home interior and design products, CDC offers a vast range of merchandise in a large design-focused space. Designer chairs, platinum faucets, leather sofas, Scandinavian daybeds and a lot more home decor products are the main draw for Phase 1, while the neighboring Phase 2 is filled with restaurants and bars, cute cafes, a supermarket, fashion boutiques and home decor stores. Its weekend flea market (Sat-Sun, 5-11pm) is good for handmade products and homemade snacks. In front of CDC is the SCG Xperience showroom which showcases the latest in home and construction innovations.

It’s not the easiest place to get to, though: we recommend a taxi from MRT Lat Phrao. 1420/1 Praditmanutham Rd., Klongchan, 02-101-5999. www.crystaldesigncenter.com

the weekend here amid the rabbit warren of stalls but if you have limited time then this is the general breakdown: Books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 1024 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home decor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet roads. BTS Mo Chit/Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.chatuchak.org Talat Rod Fai — This alfresco night bazaar has quickly become the new beloved weekend night market for vintage shoppers, thanks to the mix of retro fashion, décor and toys for sale and because of the laidback ambience at the adhoc bars and cafés. Kamphaeng Phet Rd. MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun, 4pm-1am Ratchada Night Market — Originally a trading space for vintage vehicle lovers, Ratchada Night Market is now one of Bangkok’s most popular late night shopping spots. Apart from vintage cars, motorbikes, bicycles and parts, you’ll find old and new home decor items, old books, fashion apparel, handcrafted products and even some lethal cocktails at the 200-plus stalls. Ratchadapisek Rd. MRT Lat Phrao. Open Sat, 7pm-1am.

Elsewhere Central Plaza LaRdprao ­— The 30-yearold mall just underwent a total facelift making it the hippest shopping complex in northern Bangkok. Apart from Thailand’s second Uniqlo store, brands like Topman, Zara, Forever XXI, Muji and Coach, together with leading cosmetic brands and more than 50 cool restaurants, keep the mall packed on weekends. Phahonyothin Rd., 02-6351111. MRT Lat Prao. www.centralplaza.co.th/ lardprao

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Hot Stuff

Stay on trend with our round up of must haves for the start of 2012

1 Global travel means tackling many

3 Everyone is going gaga for mirror-less

5 Pearly luminous eyes are currently the

seasons and weather conditions in a short amount of time. Great for air con airports or winter rain, make sure you look the part of seasoned traveler with this gorgeous poncho from Muji. B1,690. 3/F, Central Chidlom, 02-793-7777. www.muji.com.

BTS Chit Lom

cameras due to their image quality, speed, ability to change lenses and, of course, their compact size. Sony’s latest release is the NEX-5N, which has 16.1 megapixel sensor, a touch screen interface and a super-fast electronic shutter. Shoot now for B24,990 with an 18-55mm zoom lens. 2/F, Digital Gateway, Siam Square, 02-623-4124. www. sony.co.th. BTS Siam

hottest style in eye makeup so get the look with a waterproof radiant eyeshadow set, containing a palette of ten shades from Make Up For Ever. There are ten sets in total, but our personal pick has to be the Wild Chic Aqua Cream Premium palette.

B10,170. M/F, Siam Paragon, 02-690-1000. www.makeupforever.com. BTS Siam

2Ensure some timeless elegance and sleek sophistication with the La Grande Classique de Longines watch, which comes with ultra-slim case and a broad choice of dial colors from white or grey to lacquered black. B33,000-B470,000.

3/F, Central Chidlom, 02-793-7777. www. longines.com. BTS Chit Lom

4 Eco-friendly, super slim and super tough Mighty Wallets are just 1/8th of an inch thick, super lightweight (17 grams) and waterproof yet carry up to ten credit cards, making them perfect for any trip. B980.

TCDC, 6/F, Emporium, 089-202-2215. www.mightywallets.com. BTS Phrom Phong

6 The iconic Tank travel bag from Italian brand Mandarina Duck is back, but now restyled with a more distinctive design.

Lightweight and adjustable compartment partitions ensure your essentials stay safe and secure in transit. B22,000. 4/F, Central Chidlom, 02-793-7777. www. mandarinaduck.com. BTS Chit Lom

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bangkok Navigate GET MOVING AIRPORT LINk—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to travel to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those travelling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line.

The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (connecting to the MRT, but it’s a long walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 15 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 30 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan City Terminal. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B150 for Express Line.

More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.

CANAL BOATS­—While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only one canal still used as a means of getting around.

Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Ban Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town, stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve wracking (and physicallychallenging) and due to the unsavory nature of the canal (klong) water, any view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are between B9 and B19 depending on distance and are purchased on board.

perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on distance.

You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B100) which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with an excellent guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river.

BUSES—The bus is a popular (if slow) budget travel choice in Bangkok. The Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (BMTA) operates an extensive number of routes throughout Bangkok and its nearby provinces. There are two types of buses: non aircon and air-con. Fares for non air-con buses are B6.5-7.5 while fares for air-conditioned buses are B10-23, depending on the distance. Fares are paid to on-board staff, who rarely speak English. Visit www.bmta.co.th for a list of routes and schedules.

Intercity BUSES—There are three main stations for buses out of town. The Northern Bus Terminal or Mo Chit (02-936-2841/-3) is situated a taxi ride from Mo Chit BTS /Kamphaeng Phet MRT and services Northern and Northeastern Thailand as well as some Eastern destinations. The Eastern Bus Terminal (02-391-2504) is located right by BTS Ekkamai and has buses departing to Pattaya, Rayong, Koh Samed and Trat. Finally, the Southern Bus Terminal or Sai Tai (02-894-6122) is situated across the river at Thonburi on Boromratchachonnanee Road and services Western (Kanchanaburi) and Southern Thailand, including the islands of Phuket and Samui.

Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station.

There are interchange stations between the MRT and BTS at Sukhumvit (MRT)/Asoke (BTS) and Silom (MRT)/Sala Daeng (BTS).

Fares are B15-B40 for both trains. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys or you can get special one day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. More information at www.bts.co.th and www.bangkokmetro.co.th.

Please note the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

TAXIS—Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price.

Make sure to only pay the metered price.

TUK-TUK—Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention the great photo opportunities they offer. However, there is no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree a price before getting in. Haggle hard and be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailoring or gem store!

skytrain/underground—The Bangkok Skytrain (BTS) stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city.

There are two main lines: the Silom Line, which runs from across the river in Wong Wian Yai to National Stadium; and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit Station near the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines.

EXPRESS RIVER Boats—These fast, frequent and cheap ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different

The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past

TOURIST INFORMATION Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) — The Tourism Authority of Thailand is ready to answer all your questions about traveling in Thailand and the leading tourist destinations. The TAT headquarters is on Petchaburi Road (1600 New Petchaburi Road, Makkasan, Ratchathewi, 02-250-5500.

MRT Petchaburi). They have visitor centers at Ratchadamnoen Road (Ratchadamnern Nok Rd., 02-356-0650. Open daily 9am-5pm) and Suvarnabhumi Airport (1/F, near Gate 3, 02-134-4077. Open 24 hours). You can also phone their call center at 1672 or log into www.tourismthailand.org for detailed information. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals as well as vacation packages, e-newsletters, trip planning tools and downloadable handbooks.

For emergencies, contact the Tourist Police 24-hour call center (1155).

JANUARY 2012 I WHERE THAIL A N D 29

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JANUArY 2012 I WHERE thailand 31

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30 Things we LOve about Thailand

2

4

9

!9

@8

#0

1 Exploring the rich Lanna culture and amazing ancient temples on the charming streets of Chiang Mai.

2 Discovering Michelin-star-

9 Exploring the home of secret agent and silk tycoon Jim Thompson (6 Soi Kasemsan 2, 02-216-7368), a complex of gorgeous Thai teak pavilions packed with Asian antiques.

!6 Taking a long tail boat to Freedom

@4 Taking a coffee roasting

Beach, the wonderfully inaccessible (and peaceful) beach in Phuket.

course at the Doi Chaang (www. doichaangcoffee.com) plantation in Chiang Rai.

!7 Sitting ringside for a Thai

worthy, traditional Thai dishes at David Thompson’s Nahm (G/F, Metropolitan, 02-625-3333).

!0 Scaling the stunning limestone cliffs at Railey Beach in Krabi.

boxing match at Lumpini Stadium (Rama IV Rd., MRT Lumpini, www. muaythailumpini.com).

3 Browsing for cutting edge

!1 Sipping a glass of Monsoon Valley

!8 Discovering the Dickensian

fashions from the exciting young designers at Mob F (4/F, Siam Center, BTS Siam).

Cuvee de Siam while looking out over the rolling hills at Hua Hin Hills Vineyard (081-701-0222).

delights of real-life fairy factory and bar, Iron Fairies (394, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 084-425-8080).

4 Offering Alms to monks in the

!2 Traversing the Bridge and drinking

!9 Getting up early to experience the

morning mist of Chiang Khan, on the banks of the Mekong River.

in the memories at the River Kwai in Kanchanaburi.

floral delights and organized chaos of Pak Klong Talad flower market.

5 Getting lost in the maze of alleys

!3 Taking a bicycle trip around the

@0 Catching a traditional puppet

and challenging course at Black Mountain Golf Club in Hua Hin (www.blackmoutainhuahin.com).

at Chatuchak Weekend Market (BTS Mo Chit).

floating markets, lush plantations and crumbling temples of Bang Krajao (Spice Roads, www.spiceroads.com).

show at Baan Silapin (Tha Phra, Klong Bang Luang, 02-868-5279).

@8 Walking Phuket Town’s heritage

@1 Hunting for antiques along

trail and experiencing the unique Sino-Portuguese architecture.

6 Diving with whale sharks in the crystal waters of the Andaman Sea.

!4 Escaping from the stresses of

Charoenkrung Road in Bangkok.

7 Drinking a cocktail while

modern living at one of Bangkok’s many meditation centers (Try www. bia.or.th)

@2 Getting a relaxing four hands

enjoying Bangkok’s skyline from the 44th floor at Long Table Bar (02-302-2557-9. www. longtablebangkok.com).

8 Enjoying tasty street eats from the numerous stalls to be found in Chinatown, along Yaowarat Road.

34 W H E R E t h a i l a n d I j anuary 2012

@6 Feasting on a five-star hotel Sunday brunch, with lobster, foie gras and free-flow sparkling wine. Try the Peninsula’s by the river.

@7 Playing 18 holes on the beautiful

@9 Getting up close to a gentle giant massage at Spa@Tonson (www. spatonson.com).

!5 Getting a glimpse of what Bangkok used to be like with a klong tour around the old canals (klongs) of Nonthaburi from Saphan Taksin Pier.

@5 Setting out on a boat trip from Koh Samui to explore the 40 stunning tropical islands of Angthong Marine National Park.

@3 Embarking on a Segway Tour (www.segwaytourthailand.com) through the streets of Rattanakosin, passing old shop houses, temples and canals.

with a day visit to the Elephant Nature Foundation (www. elephantnaturefoundation.org) just outside Chiang Mai.

#0 Soaking up the view of the Gulf of Thailand from your private pool at the luxurious Conrad Koh Samui (www. conrad.com) in Koh Samui.

P.36 BangkokAirways_Jan_2012.indd 36

12/27/11 6:30 PM