Where® Thailand June 2012

Thailand

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j u n e 2 0 12 the complete guide to go ®

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Urban retreats Bangkok’s best spa secrets

RiveR AdventuRes ReveAling silk stReet tReAts

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contents where

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l THAILAND l juNe 2012

the guide

Bangkok

18 arts+Culture The top galleries, attractions and museums and this month's exhibition highlights

20 dining Sky-high fusion, seafood treats, the best wine venues and delicious street food

25 nightlife 1920s style roars back into fashion at the recently opened Speakeasy

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26 shoPs+serviCes The city's latest mall offers a blend of retro architecture and great river views

Features

28 health+Wellness The city's newest spa promises an urban oasis in the heart of the city

05 l The SpaS The STar We visit Bangkok's leading palaces of

29 MaPs

relaxation to recover from the summer heat.

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Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin

10 l river voyageS three river cruises offering a very different perspective of thailand.

also inside

escapes

14 Managing Editor, Special Projects Nick Measures Editor Top Koaysomboon General Manager James Fuss Managing Editor GrĹ˝ goire Glachant Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapong

4 Hot dates 16 Hot stuff

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island neWs

29 navigate

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Mountain neWs

34 30 tHings We Love

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Senior Sales Associate Napasnun Sawanrachai Marketing Manager Arunee Wilson Marketing Executive Natta Yantasri Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant Cover Image Elemis Spa

MorrIS VISITor PUBlICaTIoNS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NaTIoNal SalES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.

Com

MVP | CarTograPhy aNd CIrCUlaTIoN General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

MorrIS CoMUNICaTIoNS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris Iii President William S. Morris Iv

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/WhereThailand

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

MVP | CrEaTIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TEChNology & MaNUfaCTUrINg Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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hot dates THAILAND

Jun 9-Sep 2 TiTanic: The arTifacT exhibiTion

Jun 4 ViSakha bucha Day Over 90% of the Thai population are practicing Buddhists, which makes the annual religious festivals some of the most important events in the calendar.

One of the most anticipated is Visakha Bucha (or Vesakha Puja) day, which is held on the day of the full moon during the 6th lunar month and commemorates the birth, enlightenment and death of Lord Buddha. On this day, and during the preceding week in certain areas, there will be festivities held at Buddhist temples across the country. The main day on June 4 sees Buddhists walk around the temple ordination hall (wien tien in Thai) while praying and holding a lighted candle as a sign of respect. As this year marks the 2,600th anniversary of Lord BuddhaÕ s enlightenment, expect even greater displays of fervor. More information at TaT, call center 1672, www. tourismthailand.org.

Jun 10 Laguna PhukeT MaraThon For those who really want to test their athleticism, The Laguna Phuket International Marathon returns this month. First started in 2006, the marathon has been attracting more and more people each year, with almost 4,000 runners signed up in 2011. To participate, a runner pays an entry fee of B3,400 for a full marathon, B3,000 for half marathon, B2,750 for a 10.5-km run and B2,450 for the 5-km run. The marathon is a popular warm-up for many athletes before they tackle the more challenging Luguna Phuket Triathlon that takes place in November. www. phuketmarathon.com

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Jun 16 JaSon Mraz LiVe in bangkok After being unable to visit last year due to the flooding, Jason Mraz finally makes it to Bangkok and will now be putting on a larger scale concert as part of the ÓJ ason Mraz Tour is a Four Letter WordÓ run of dates. Expect the American singer-songwriter to perform all his top hits including global smashes like ÒI Õ m YoursÓ and ÒLu cky.Ó at impact arena Mueng Thong Thani, chaengwattana rd. Tickets are b1,000-4,000 from Thaiticketmajor.com.

To commemorate the 100th anniversary of the sinking of the legendary cruise liner, which set sail on its maiden (and final) voyage in 1912, Titanic: The Artifact Exhibition honors and remembers the fated journey of ÒT he Ship of Dreams.Ó The exhibition has been traveling the world, from the USA to Singapore, and now arrives in Thailand, where it will showcase some 300 original artifacts retrieved from the wreck site of Titanic, alongside a range of multimedia installations. Tickets are B500 for adults and B300 for students. at centralWorld LiVe, 8/f, centralWorld, rama 1 rd. bTS chidlom. www.bectero.com/titanic

Jun 16-24 bangkok carniVaL fair The giant halls of Impact Muang Thong Thani exhibition center will be transformed into a number of BangkokÕ s signature neighborhoods, from Rattanakosin Island and China Town (Yaowarat) to Chatuchak Market and Siam Square. Not only will you have the opportunity to enjoy shopping for signature products and sampling tasty dishes from the different neighborhoods, there will also be plenty of fun activities as well as the chance for a photo opportunity in front of replicas of BangkokÕ s leading landmarks. at impact Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular rd., 02-833-4455.

Jun 30-Jul 1 The riVer Jazz feSTiVaL Leading international artists including queen of bossa nova Lisa Ono, contemporary jazz group Fourplay and the Academy Award winning Glenn Miller Orchestra will share the stage by the river at this exciting new jazz event at one of BangkokÕ s latest lifestyle and shopping complexes. The alfresco concert will also include some of ThailandÕ s leading musicians such as Koh Mr. Saxman, Ben Chalathit and The Quartet.

Tickets are B1,500/day, B2,500/2 days at Thaiticketmajor.com. at asiatique the riverfront, charoenkrung rd., 02-262-3456. Catch a free ferry from the pier by BTS Saphan Taksin.

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Spa Saviors BangkokÕ s top treatments to beat the heat and humidity of summer in the city.

ElEmis spa

WEll-bEing massagE

Exotic Rassoul Treatment with Well-Being Massage The detail: 135 minutes, B5,900 The place: Perched on the 15th floor of the luxurious St. Regis Hotel, the Elemis Spa Bangkok is the British spa brandÕ s first property in Southeast Asia. With a classic ivory color scheme running throughout, the spa features a collection of 14 treatment rooms and suites that offer striking views over downtown Bangkok.

Signature spa facilities include

Rassoul stEam

the Arabian sauna in their unique rassoul chambers, a vitality pool and a dream journey room complete with therapeutic lighting, music and aromas.

The treatment: This Turkishinspired treatment is combined with a selection of rejuvenating massage techniques to ensure full relaxation.

After a consultation session, where you can choose the desired results of the treatments (soften skin, diminished cellulite, improved blood circulation and more), you will be led

to the steam suite. There a special mineral-rich mud, created especially for your treatment, will be applied to your whole body. Once encased itÕ s just a case of sitting there amid the steam for around 15-30 minutes until the mineral extracts have been fully absorbed by your skin. You then wash off the mud, and follow it up with a 60-minute oil massage. You end the treatment with a plunge into cool (14 degree Celsius) and hot (40 degree) vitality pools that help stimulate the lymphatic system and improve circulation.

Why we love it: The view is stunning, the space itself is very beautiful and the experience of being covered in mud is pretty unique.

Elemis Spa 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-2077779. BTS Ratchadamri. www. elemisspabangkok.com

LEaRn Thai MaSSagE Wat Po is not only the place to get an authentic traditional Thai massage but also where you can learn how to do them yourself.

ThereÕ s a variety of massage courses, but amateurs should start with Ò A Professional Thai Massage for HealthÓ course (B30,000), where you will spend 165 hours learning basic anatomy and performing body massages led by professional instructors. For more information and to apply, contact Wat Po Traditional Medical School, 02-6223551, www. watpomassage. com

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feature Fedora Treatment The details: 150 minutes, B4,600

The place: Tucked away in the

DEvaRana

very heart of this stately hotel, the spa is a soothing sanctuary just meters from BTS and MRT stations. Ascend the wide staircase and step through the imposing wooden gate to be greeted with an impressive white space that has an almost heavenly quality. Follow the reflective glass river to the reception, which then leads onto a corridor containing 14 individual rooms and suites each hidden behind their own Thaistyle wooden doors.

The treatment: This 2.5-hour

infRaRED bED at apEx

EaSy Way To cuRE Back pain YouÕ re suffering from a backpain caused by your long-haul flight?

Rungravee Ruksaksakul, Director of Spa at the Seasons Spa, Conrad, says the best way to recover is for you to lie on a hard surface for as long as possible. Try and sit straight and donÕ t lay on a soft matress. If the pain lasts, you may need to see a specialist.

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hyperthermia infrared Bed The detail: 30 minutes, B3,500 The place: Set behind the Eight Thonglor Complex in the heart of this trendy neighborhood, Apex Media Spa is the cityÕ s latest totalrejuvenating-retreat. It features a restaurant, swimming pool and options ranging from three-hour spa treatments to seven-day weightloss packages, with hotel-style rooms available for these longer stay wellness programs.

The treatment: This treatment aims to detox your bodyÕ s cells of their polluting elements through the power of infrared light. After a standard medical check-up, you will be wrapped with foil sheets and then told to lay down on a space-age looking infrared bed for approximately 30 minutes. The bed works via a series of inbuilt infrared lights which heat up the cellsÕ

DEvaRana

temperature to 39 degree Celsius, forcing your cells to sweat out all those nasty toxins. The end result is cleaner, healthier and stronger cells.

The treatment is at its most effective when followed by a lymphatic massage that helps stimulate blood flow and circulation.

Why we love it: Owned by a doctor, the Apex brand of beauty clinics have been a long-time favorite among Bangkokians thanks to their range of innovative rejuvenating treatments and professional levels of service. The dŽ cor might not be as Zen-like as some spas but you can expect cutting edge treatments and equipment to get impressive results. apex Medi Spa Behind Ei8ht Thonglor, Thonglor Soi 8, Sukhumvit 55, 02-636-3596/02-22009000. BTS Thong Lo. www. apexprofoundbeauty.com

treatment has been especially designed to tackle the heat and humidity of the rainy season.

Start off with a 30-minute soak in the expansive and deep bath filled with bright yellow chamomile flowers and tea tree blend essential oil to relax and rehydrate your skin. Then itÕ s time for a 30-minute green tea, turmeric and charcoal body scrub to remove any impurities brought about by the seasonal downpours and the blistering sun. Finish off with a stress-relieving and reenergizing Swedish massage.

Why we love it: The reception and rooms are a delight and can help rebalance your chi before you even start the treatment.

The Fedora leaves you feeling wonderfully cleansed, calm and cool, a boon during the hot, wet and sticky summer months.

Deverana Spa Dusit Thani hotel, 946 Rama iV Rd., 02-636-3596/02-22009000. BTS Sala Daeng. www. deveranaspa.com

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scRub ingREDiEnts

close to the bustle of Silom, Divana Virtue Spa is authentic yet homely.

Situated in a century-old house, decked out in an authentic Rama V style, it sits among a small yet lush garden to create a very private and calming atmosphere.

The treatment: There are seven steps, featuring everything from masks and scrubs to massages for face and body, with each step utilizing coconut in some way, whether itÕ s fresh coconut in the mask and body scrub, organic coconut oil in the body massage to coconut milk in the collagen body massage and hot steam bath. Coconut has been used for generations thanks to its

Why we love it: The size and dŽ cor of the spa and treatment rooms makes every guest feel very relaxed and at home. Despite using some imported spa products, Divana has also developed its own line, using fresh local ingredients.

Divana Virtue Spa 10 Srivieng Rd., Silom, 02-2366788. www.divanaspa.com

Coconut milk is not only an essential ingredint in Thai food and desserts, itÕ s also good for your skin, too. Coconut milk contains Vitamin C, E, B1, B3 (Niacin), B5 (Panthenic Acis) and B6 that help nourish and brighten dry and dull skin.

(a Wa Y)

The place: Tucked down a small soi

coconuT MiLk

z

The details: 210 minutes, B6,450

healing properties, especially for skin trying to cope with the vagaries of the tropical weather. Fresh coconut has been shown to contain large amounts of the estrogen hormone, which can be beneficial for both men and women who want softer, brighter skin; coconut cream helps nourish skin, while coconut oil offers protection from UV rays.

fi

coco crush collagen

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Ha

Divana

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feature BEnEFiTS oF a coLon DETox Dr. Pakpilai Thavisin from S Medical Spa explains that a colon hydrotherapy session helps eliminate the waste materials that have accumulated in the digestive system over years. The waste materials from our daily food form Ò mucoid,Ó a kind of toxic substance, which coats the intestinal wall.

The body can then reabsorb these toxins back into our bloodstream, which leads to problems like muscle pain and migraines.

RuamRuEDEE HEaltH

Salt pot compress The details: 120 minutes, B1,500

The place: Located in a small compound a few minutesÕ walk from BTS Phloenchit, Ruamrudee Health Massage utilizes plenty of traditional Thai style, and techniques, to impress their mostly foreign customers. Lots of light wood and mood lighting help create a simple but suitably serene atmosphere.

The treatment: There are two options for the salt pot massage, either combined with a Thai massage or with an oil massage.

After the massage, the masseuse then fills a clay pot with pure sea salt and sets fire to it. This is wrapped in a selection of chopped herbs and muslin to form a hot herbal compressÑ called louk

KiRiYa spa

pra kob in Thai. This compress is then applied to various parts of your body. The salt retains heat, which helps force natural oils and extracts from the herbs into your skin. Thai herbs relieve stress, improve blood circulation and rejuvenate the skin.

Ruamrudee health Massage 20/17-19 Soi Ruam Rudee, 02-252-9651, www. ruamrudeehealthmassage.com

Why we love it: While it might not be one for the sensitive, as the compress can be pretty hot, we say no pain no gain Ñ it really does help ease stiff muscles.

salt pot massagE

Thai Spa products to Take home

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Erb

gla

harnn

pa–p uri

The facial mineral spray from the Princess Pa Collection helps freshen you up with its rose tinted scent. B490.

A rice bran oil nurturing lip cream that helps soothe dry lips, thanks to its rich Shea butter extract.

B280.

6/F, Central Chidlom, Ploenchit Rd. www.erbasia.com

Available at Lemon Farm organic stores, try: G/F, 31 Soi Langsuan, 02-652-1973 or get a full list of branches at www.lemonfarm.com. www.glanature.com

The Cymbopogon collection (B9,385), especially the shower gel (B650) and lotion (B980), offers up an impressive orientalstyle scent.

These perfume candles come in a range of scents and weÕ d say they hold their own when compared with the much pricier Diptyque candles. From B1,200.

2/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-664-9935. BTS Phrom Phong. See website for branches. www.harnn.com

Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1199. BTS Chit Lom. See website for a full list of branches. www.panpuri.com

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feature The north Elegance

Summer

The detail: 180 minutes, B5,200

The detail: 120 minutes, B4,900

The place: Set inside the uber stylish design hotel LIT Bangkok near the cityÕ s main shopping district, Kiriya Spa keeps you away from the world outside with its dimly-lit, cave like interior thatÕ s filled with Thai artifacts.

The place: The newly renovated Seasons Spa is discovered inside the stylish Conrad Hotel Bangkok, favored among business types and embassy staff in this high-end neighborhood.

The decor sees a combination of five-star facilities and oriental designs, with a use of raw earth materials like natural woods and stone.

The treatment: All treatments are inspired by Thai wellness rituals drawn from the four major regions.

The North Elegance combines three main steps: a body scrub with honey and local herbs like turmeric, lemongrass and plai roots, a hot herbal compress that aims to relieve tension; and, finally, a gentle aromatic massage that uses organic oil with hints of pine, olive and neroli.

Why we love it: Apart from the hotelÕ s and spaÕ s designs, the treatment package is perfect for those who are not used to a heavier traditional Thai massage but still want to relieve the stresses and strain caused by travel.

The treatment: Their spa treatments are inspired by the four seasons: spring, summer, autumn and winter.

Our personal favorite, and perfect for the current Thai weather, is their Summer Package, which combines a body scrub, using local herbs like plai and turmeric mixed with honey and yogurt, followed by its signature, medium-pressure Seasons Spa Massage to ease any aches and pains.

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sEasons spa

If you are not a fan of scrubs then you can also copt for the tropical fruit body wrap instead.

Why we love it: The elegant decor, the refreshing scrub and the opportunity to enjoy a drink at the sohisticated and sexy Diplomat bar in the lobby downstairs afterwards.

Seasons Spa conrad hotel Bangkok, Wittayu Rd., 02-612-3456, www.conradbangkok. com

kiriya Spa LiT hotel Bangkok, Soi kasemsan 1, Rama 1 Rd., 02-612-3456, www.litbangkok.com

Thann The Shiso lip butter nourishes your lips with cocoa butter and green tea extracts. B550.

Thann Sanctuary, 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1399.

BTS Chit Lom. See website for a full list of branches. www. thann.info

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AROUND THAILAND

Wat niWet thammaPraWat

Taking the slow boat

See another side of Thailand with these three river cruises. By Monruedee Jansuttipan and Top Koaysomboon

CruiSe PaSt anCient temPleS

Wat Phra SriSanPhet at ayutthaya heritage Site

Historic River 3 days, 2 nights. Bangkok-Ayutthaya-Bangkok Visiting the UNESCO World Heritage City of Ayutthaya is an absolute must-do when visiting Thailand. There are many ways to get there (you can even ride the 76km on a bicycle, though we wouldnÕ t advise it), but a journey by boat along The River of Kings is probably the most charming and leisurely choiceÑ and definitely the most luxurious. The three-day Anantara Cruise makes stops in picturesque villages and exquisite temples on the way but we think the best part is the on-board experience, where delicious Thai food and five-star service await.

Day 1: The floating hotel embarks from Anantara Bangkok Riverside, heading to the Temple of Dawn, or Wat Arun, one of the most iconic sights in Bangkok.

Here you will enjoy the beauty of this royal temple where King Taksin first moored his ship, at dawn, after fleeing the war-ravaged capital of Ayutthaya.

Next, pop into the Royal Barges National Museum, which stores delicately carved boats gilded with gold. After visits to the

historic Wat Pathum Khongkha and Wat Samakkiyaram temples, itÕ s then time to watch the sunset before enjoying your first Thai dinner and nightÕ s sleep on board.

Day 2: Start your morning by making merit at Wat Samakkiyaram, then take a little trek around the local area before hopping back on board. After lunch, you will stop at Wat Panancherng to pay homage to ThailandÕ s largest ancient Buddha image, built way back in 1344. Feeling romantic? The Phranang Sroi Dok Mak Shrine situated right next to the temple is where locals pray for loveÑ results guaranteed. Then a limousine with a tour guide will take you on an exploration of the amazing UNESCO World Heritage site of Ayutthaya, finishing with an elephant ride back to the boat.

Day 3: Start your day with a short walk to visit Wat Niwet Thammaprawat and its Gothic-style ordination hall, then get a glimpse of what life at the Royal Court was like at King Rama VÕ s Bang Pa In Summer

Palace. Finally, spend your tripÕ s last hour at the Bang Sai Royal Folk Arts and Crafts Center, where you can browse Siamese handicrafts such as silk, furniture and traditional dolls before heading back by boat to Bangkok.

Prices are from B44,000 for a two-person cabin, and available via Anantara Cruise www.bangkok-cruises.anantara.com.

Dinning table on uPPer DeCk

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AROUND THAILAND Cruise the Mekong 8 days. Nong KhaiUbonratchathani Cruising southward along the Mekong River lets you explore some hidden riverside gems not only in Thailand but also neighboring Laos. The cruise embarks from Nong Khai province, and guests will spend their first night on board with a traditional Thai meal and a spot of pampering before striking out downstream in earnest the next day. The first four days will offer the chance to take in a number of Nong KhaiÕ s historic sites including Phu Khading Village, Nam Khading River and a small town where VietnamÕ s most lauded son, Ho Chi Minh, used to live in the late 1920s. The final two days see your boat move into Ubonratchathani and Nakhon Phanom

provinces, where you can visit some of ThailandÕ s most sacred temples, including Wat Phra That Phanom, before you catch your flight back to Bangkok.

You can choose to travel downstream from Nong Khai, or upstream from Ubonratchathani, boat trips last eight days. Prices are from ¤3,380 (B134,000) for a two-person cabin, inclusive of all meals. www.cruisemekong.com

Emotional Voyage

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remember all those who were interned as Prisoners of War in this area. The rest of the trip includes visits to caves, temples, historical parks and Hell Fire Pass, part of the notorious Death Railway. As you relax amid the comfortable facilities of the boat you can be assured of enjoying some spectacular scenery, with the river seeming to cut a swathe through unspoilt and vertiginous tree-clad mountains.

Price is B16,200 per person, inclusive of all meals. www.cruiseasia.net.

4 days, 3 nights.

Kanchanaburi Step aboard the RV River Kwai, a colonial-style teakwood river cruiser, at Kanchanaburi, just to the west of Bangkok and get ready to spend 4 days exploring the River Kwai Noi. Day one will see you visit the infamous River Kwai Bridge and the sobering war museum set up to

river kWai

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ESCAPES

Island News Hansar samui

Grand openings, hot promotions and special events at ThailandÕ s top beach destinations

.ThANA

VIETNAM MYANMAR Chiang Mai

Chaiyaphum Centara Grand West sands

Corals at similan national Park

Sa Kaeo

Y SAMUI | HOTEL DEAL

Y PHUKET | HOTEL DEAL

Rekindle the Romance Hansar Samui, located in the idyllic setting of Bo Phut Beach, next to the FishermanÕ s Village walking street, is offering the perfect excuse to elope and unwind for a few days. The resortÕ s Rejuvenation Package features a threenight stay with breakfast, roundtrip airport transfers, a lunch of health-conscious cuisine with tea pairing at Luxsa Spa, a 90-minute massage, a private dinner and an early check-in and late check-outÑ a must for Samui, where the first flight arrives at 6am and the last leaves at 10pm.

Until July 15, you can get a sea view room for B26,900 or an XL room for B33,800.

After that, prices will be B34,400 and B40,400, respectively, through August 31.

Bophut Beach, Koh Samui, Suratthani, 077-245-511, www.hansarsamui.com

Cheaper Beach Due to the onset of the rains and monsoon winds, low season (referred to as the green season by locals) in Phuket sees the islandÕ s hotels slash their prices. Take Centara Grand West Sands Resort & Villas Phuket on the wonderfully secluded Maikhao Beach, where a 65-sq-meter deluxe room can be had from as little as B2,632. Larger families might consider a 314-sq-meter penthouse three-bedroom pool suite, which starts from B7,750, or a gigantic 1,220-sq-meter five-bedroom pool villa, which is priced at B12,950. Rates are valid through October 31, exclusive of taxes and service charges.

Maikhao Beach, Phuket, www. centarahotelsresorts.com/package/ GrandWestSandwebsaver.asp

Bangkok Rayong Trat

Samui

GULF OF SIAM

Phang Nga Phuket

Y PHANG NGA | NEWS Coral Closure Sorry, divers. The Similan National Park and its beautiful islands, among the worldÕ s top diving spots, are now closed for the monsoon season, due to choppy INDONESIA seas and to allow the marine life time to recover from the impact of tourism. The park will reopen in November, but you can still visit surrounding dive spots such as Phang Nga Bay and Khao Lak.

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ESCAPES Y RAYONG | HOTEL DEAL EX Changes Much less well known than its bigger, louder near-neighbor Pattaya, Rayong is a quieter and more offbeat beach destination located not too far from Bangkok. There are certainly plenty of options when it comes to beachfront resorts along this stretch of coastline, ranging from no-frills to high-end design.

One of our favorites, fitting firmly into the latter category, is the former X2 Rayong, which has just been rebranded the Centara Sappaya Design Resort.

The 13-room boutique resort has a cool, minimal design and seems to tumble down a steep hillside to the large pool and a lovely, quiet beach. Its tempting low-season rates are B3,500 for a room to B12,000 for a suite until October 31.

For a spot of history during your stay, see our box on historic Rayong.

215/3 Moo 3, Laem Mae Pim, Klaeng, Rayong, 038-657-378, www. centarahotelsresorts.com

TRAVEL TITBIT Historic Rayong City

If you tire of the beach during your stay on the Eastern Seaboard then you can always take a step back in time with a journey to Rayong CityÕ s old Chinese quarter, focused around Yomjindra Road. A quiet and sleepy street of pretty wooden and stone shophouses during the day, it turns into a bustling thoroughfare at night with an array

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of bric-a-brac stores, museums, cafes and restaurants to tempt the wallet and the taste buds. ItÕ s best to come after 7pm when the heat of the day has died down. Highlights include grabbing a tea or soda at authentic coffee shops, sampling some noodles or trying traditional Thai sweets.

Rayong is 2.30-hour drive from Bangkok.

Y SAMUI | NEWS Samui Savings Feel like getting away to the beach during your stay? Well the new Ò Samui SabaiÓ p romotion from Bangkok Airways means a roundtrip ticket is now just B5,500. The offer lasts until Jul 15 and is applicable for reservations through the call center 1771, website www.bangkokair.com and ticket agents throughout Thailand.

Y PHUKET | HOTEL DEAL Summer Retreat Sat right in the heart of Patong town, not far from the beach, Mercure Phuket Deevana is a convenient choice for those looking to be close to the action, in Accor-standard rooms and at affordable prices. This seasonÕ s deals start from B6,000 for a two-night stay with pool view, daily breakfast, one buffet dinner for two, a 45-minute Thai massage for two, Wi-Fi internet and roundtrip airport transfer. Through October 31.

Rat Uthai Rd., Patong Beach, Phuket, 076-302-100, www. mercurephuketdeevana.com june 2012 I W HERE THA ILA N D 13

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ESCAPES

Upcountry news New hotels, special events and great promos at ThailandÕ s rural retreats.

Krajiew Flowers in CHaiyapHum

VIETNAM MYANMAR

LAOS Chiang Mai

Chaiyaphum

Sa Kaeo

Bangkok

making an itinerary: the full bloom doesnÕ t take place at the same time at both parks. It starts at Thepsathit National Park in June, before moving across to Sai Thong from July until August. More information at TAT Nakhon Ratchasima 044-213-030, 044-213-666.

SA KAEO | NEWS Trat

CHAIYAPHUM | NEWS Pink Blossoms Samui When the rains start to hit the Isaan Ngaupper northeast of plateau Phang in the Thailand, flower lovers pack their Phuket bags to go see the annual display of the krajiew flowers in full bloom at Thepsathit and Sai Thong national parks in Chaiyaphum. Also known as the Siamese tulip, dok krajiew only blossom during June to August each year. What you should know before

The Butterfly Effect The rainy season is when the forests of Thailand are at their freshest and most nourished, and itÕ s also the time when the populations of many different species of butterfly reach their peak.

So from now until July 31, Sa Kaeo is hoping to lure eco-tourists to Pang Sida National Park with the promise of Ò Butterfly Watching at Pang Sida.Ó Visitors can take a workshop on how to photograph the winged wonders then enter their work in a most beautiful butterfly contest, peruse a trade fair

Chiang Mai

THAILAND NEW ROOM Okura Prestige Bangkok Bangkok

BangkokÕ s newest five-star hotel opened its doors last month on Rayong Phloenchit Intersection. Covering 34 floors of the mixed-use building Park Venture Ecoplex, Okura Prestige Bangkok brings some renowned Japanese hospitality to town, featuring 240 guestrooms with Samuicenter, and three a view, spa, fitness buzzing food and drink outlets: Up & Above anPhang all-day dining, restaurant, the Nga award-winning Yamazato, for Japanese fine dining Phuket and Elements. One of the highlight is its infinity swimming pool that promises one of BangkokÕ s most stunning elevated views as it hangs out over the side of the building. Rooms are from B5,800 through September 30.

57 Wireless Rd., Bangkok, 02687-9000. BTS Phloenchit. www. okurabangkok.com

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ESCAPES and partake in a variety of other ecotourism activities. With the water levels high, itÕ s also a great time to visit the famous Pang Sida waterfall.

Contact TAT Nakhon Nayok, 037-312282, 037-312-284, www.tat8.com, www.facebook.com/tatnayokfans

ButterFly at panG siDa

NATIONWIDE | NEWS Top Thais Conde Nast Traveller Magazine has just unveiled its Gold List and Hot List for 2012. Among a luxe crowd, there are two Thai hotels to make the Gold List, a roundup of top hotels worldwide: Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai was awarded Best for Rooms, thanks to its impeccable Burmese and Lanna-style pavilions, and Six Senses Yao Noi Beyond Phuket was awarded Best for Leisure Facilities, thanks to its expansive mix of facilities and activities. In Bangkok, The St. Regis Bangkok makes it into the Hot List, a roundup of the hottest new hotels, for its unparalleled views, classy decor and choice of cuisine.

Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai, Mae Rim, Chiang Mai, 053 298 181 | Six Senses Yao Noi Beyond Phuket, Koh Yao Noi, Phang Nga, 076 418 500 | The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777.

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TRAT | HOTEL DEAL Natural Adventure It takes six hours to drive from Bangkok to Koh Chang in Trat, but the pay-off is an island that has retained its natural delights. And during this season, resorts there are much cheaper, such as The Dewa Koh Chang. Its Bliss Package features a two-night stay with breakfast, one barbeque dinner, one Thai dinner, one Thai lunch, a roundtrip to Klong Pru waterfall and White Sand beach, free Wi-Fi, use of a kayak, and a choice between a one-day snorkeling trip or a 60-minute massage. This B11,000 package is valid through October 31, and as Koh Chang is in the Gulf of Thailand it doesnÕ t suffer the same potentially bad weather as the islands in the Andaman Sea. Koh Chang, Trat, 02-261-6364, www. thedewakohchang.com

NEW TRAvEl APPS THIS MONTH The Ritz-Carlton [iPhone/Android] The best feature of this new five-star-hotel app is the Concierge Tip which recommends things to do and see in the vicinity of Ritz-Carlton hotels worldwide, even if youÕ re not staying with them.

Happy Hour Finder [iPhone] Created by the savvy team behind AsiaÕ s best city living magazines, this location-based app lets you discover all the best happy hour deals and highlights the closest bars to you in Bangkok, Hong Kong and Singapore.

CHAIY

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hot stuff

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The very best in Thai designer accessories

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1 Container, B6,800 2 P’s Material, B2,800 3 Paa*, B4,450 4 Paa*, B1,250 5 Secret Weapon, B17,000 6 Paa*, B2,450 7 Secret Weapon, B13,500 8 The Sleeveless Garden, B3,900 9 Paa*, B1,750 !0 Labyrinth, B1,482 !1 Colorscamp, B3,450 !2 P’s Material, B2,250 !3 Secret Weapon, B19,900

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Container. 4/F, Zen, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-100-9999. BTS Chit Lom. www.facebook.com/containerbag Colorscamp. Kloset, 3/F, Siam Center, 02658-1732. BTS Siam.

Labyrinth. Workshop, 1/F, Mega Bangna, Bang Na-Trat Rd., 082-558-8152. www.facebook.com/thinklabyrinth Paa*. Siam Square Soi 3, Rama 1 Rd., 084-912-4455. BTS Siam. www.facebook. com/paashop P‘s Material. Online shopping at psmaterial@ gmail.com, www.facebook.com/Ps-Material Secret Weapon. G/F, Ei8ht Thonglor, Soi Thonglor, 02-392-4755. BTS Thong Lo. www.secretweaponlab.com The Sleeveless Garden. LG/F, Central Plaza Grand Rama 9, Ratchadapisek Rd., 081-4560315. MRT Rama 9. www.facebook.com/ thesleevelessgarden

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the guide

art

Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles

After nine years, the transformation of the historic Ratsadakorn-Bhibhathana Building, the former home of the Bureau of Grand National Treasure, into the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles has finally been completed. It’s also now open to the public, as part of HM Queen Sirikit’s 80th birthday celebrations. Four main exhibiting rooms portray the story of how HM the Queen has set the style for Thai traditional costumes and turned Thai silk from a simple local handcraft into a key export and an iconic symbol of the country. Highlights are HM the Queen’s personal costumes designed by renowned international and Thai designers, including sophisticated masterpieces from the houses of Scherrer, Givenchy and Balmain. Inside the Grand Palace, Na Phralan Rd., 02-225-9420.

Open daily 9am-4:30pm. Entry fee B150. Proper attire is required. WP25

arts + CULtUrE .................................... 18-19 dining ...................................................... 20-24 nightLifE........................................................25

shops + sErviCEs ................................26-27 hEaLth + wELLnEss .................................28

navigatE........................................................29 maps...........................................................29-33

Note that the reference at the end of the listings (W S24, Z D3 etc) apply to the coordinates on the individual maps on pages 29-33.

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Arts+Culture BANGKOK

Art Exhibition HigHligHts

ART ON FARM Ñ A photo diary featuring 17 artworks created by 19 artists as part of Jim Thompson FarmÕ s annual art project.

Through Jun 24. Jim Thompson Art Center, 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. YM15

A FROzEN DREAM Ñ Bangkok-based photographer Connelly La Mar has captured various surreal scenes in the city, from growling bears to glowing farang heads, expressing the feeling of alienation one gets when far from home. Through Jun 30.

Kathmandu Gallery. 87 Pan Rd., 02-2346700. XI11

OBSCENE Ñ Internationally acclaimed Thai artist Manit Sriwanichpoom showcases two new photographic series: Holy Machismo features surreal black and white images of Thai fertility symbols; while, the Baroque nudes of Obscene (2012) confront the garish vulgarity of modern Thai politics. Jun 14-Jul 30. H Gallery, 201 Sathorn Soi 12. 081-3104428. Open daily 9am-5pm. XH11

Art GALLEriES 100 TONSON GALLERY Ñ With a prime location and well-designed space, this gallery doesnÕ t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-684-1527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20 ARDEL GALLERY OF MODERN ART Ñ This vast 720-square-meter space hosts visual and performing arts events. It also has a cafŽ and runs art workshops and seminars. 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd (Km 10.5), 02422-2092. Open Tue-Sat 10:30am-7pm, Sun 10:30am-5:30pm. www.ardelgallery.com BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTER (BACC) Ñ The cityÕ s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art-related shops in its impressive 11-story structure. 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th YM16 GOSSIP GALLERY Ñ This multifaceted space showcases contemporary pieces from both local and international artists. 3/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-237-5568. BTS Surasak. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. gossipgallerybkk72.com XI10 H GALLERY Ñ Set in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions representing emerging contemporary Asian artists. 201, Sathorn Soi 12, 081-310-4428. BTS Surasak. Open WedMon 10am-6pm. www.hgallerybkk.com XH11

KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY Ñ This four-floor gallery, which includes a specialty bookstore, is focused on promoting the work of up-and-coming local photographers. 87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd., 02-234-6700. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open Tue-Sun 11am-7pm. www. kathmandu-bkk.com XI11

SERINDIA GALLERY Ñ Run by a publishing company, this gallery focuses on the art and culture of Asia, specifically the Himalayan region. OP Garden, Unit 3101-3201, 4-6 Soi Charoen Krung 36, 02-238-6410. Open TueSun 11am-8pm. www.serindiagallery.com XJ10

NATIONAL GALLERY Ñ Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. ItÕ s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd, 02281-2224, 02-282-2639- 40. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www.national-gallery.go.th WQ27 NOSPACE GALLERY Ñ This avante garde art space on the nightlife strip of RCA offers challenging exhibitions and regular live music events. 21/108 Block D, Royal City Avenue (RCA), 02-641-4040. Open Mon-Tue 11am7pm; Wed-Sun 11-1am. www.nospacebkk.com

seriNdiA GALLerY

THE QUEENÕ S GALLERY Ñ The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes.

101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-281-5360/1.

Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. www.queengallery. org WS27

SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY Ñ More of a shop than a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai art works. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02254-6040. Open daily 9am-8pm. www. sombatpermpoongallery.com XL21

SILOM GALLERIA Ñ This large mall hosts a range of modern Asian art under one roof.

Highlight galleries include: Tang Contemporary Art, which covers modern Chinese art and Thavibu Gallery which features works by Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists. 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-266-5454. BTS Surasak. The mall is open daily 10am-8pm, though some galleries have different opening times. XI10

THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC) Ñ Home to a big art library, and host to temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-9pm. www. tcdc.or.th ZC4

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Arts+Culture V64 Ñ More than 60 artists from Chatuchak Weekend Market teamed up to transform a three-acre space into a large art center, which features studios, a gallery, an art academy, shop and restaurant. 143/19 Chaengwattana Soi 1 Yak 6, Bhangkhen. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.v64artstudio.com

WAT ARUN (TEMPLE OF DAWN) Ñ One of the cityÕ s best known landmarks is home to the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmer-style tower), decorated by millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means Ò morningÓ and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arun Amarin Rd. Wat Arun Pier. WP22 WAT TRAIMIT WITTAYARAM Ñ Home to the worldÕ s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm.

v64

WHITESPACE GALLERY Ñ Founded by an American architect and Thai artist Maitree Siriboon, the narrow space at this design studio provides a platform for the works of emerging artists. 2/F, Lido Bldg, 260 Siam Square Soi 3, 02-252-2900. BTS Siam. Open Tue-Fri 1pm7pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am-8pm. www.whitespcegallery.com YM16

AttrActionS FUNARIUM Ñ This giant indoor soft play area is a great option for those parents looking for somewhere safe for the kids to blow off steam.

Offering painting, crafts bike riding, roller blading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas, thereÕ s plenty for the kids to do. 111/1 Sukhumvit 26, 02-665-6555. www.funarium.co.th. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 8:30am8:30pm. B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults for three hours.

GRAND PALACE Ñ One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture. Here youÕ ll also find Wat Phra Kaeo (see below). Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. Free tours in English available at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm. B400.

Maharaj Pier. WQ25 SIAM OCEAN WORLD Ñ Southeast AsiaÕ s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species.

Highlights include the underwater tunnel, penguin enclosure and the glass bottom boat tour. Basement, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.,02687-2000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm.

B900 for adults, B700 for children. YM17 RATTANAKOSIN ExHIBITION HALLÑ Also known as Nitas Rattanakosin, this exhibition center traces the history of Bangkok from the late 18th century to the present day. DonÕ t miss the stunning view from the rooftop.

Ratchadamnoen Rd., 02-621-004. Open Tue-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. B100.

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WAT PHRA KAEO (TEMPLE OF THE EMERALD BUDDHA) Ñ Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace, this important religious site is home to ThailandÕ s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade.

Also, donÕ t miss the exquisite mural paintings on the walls surrounding the compound. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm.

B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25

MUSEUMS JIM THOMPSON HOUSE Ñ The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk, Jim Thompson, is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm.B100 for adults, B50 for students and children. www. jimthompsonhouse.com YM15

New>

Museum of Contemporary ArtÑ MOCA

Open to the public this April, the Museum of Contemporary Art is the most impressive permanent collection of modern Thai art in the capital, funded by a telecom tycoon, Boonchai Bencharongkakul. Highlights include celebrated artists Thawan Duchanee, Chalermchai Kositpipat and Chakaphan Posayakrit. Open Tue-Sun 10-5:30pm. Entry fee B180. 499/50 Viphavadee Rangsit Rd., Lat Yao, Chatuchak, 02-953-1005/-7. www.mocabangkok.com

NATIONAL MUSEUM Ñ Formerly the Ò second kingÕ sÓ palace, this gorgeous property houses some of the most extraordinary architecture, art and antiques in the country. DonÕ t miss the restored courtyards with their fragrant gardens. Na Phrathat Rd., 02-215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. Admission: B50. www. nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th WQ27 ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM Ñ Eight of the more than 50 boats that make up the royal barge processions are displayed here. The must-see is the Suphannahong, or Golden Swan, with its huge, golden figurehead prow. Pinklao Bridge Pier, Thonburi, 02-424-0004. Open daily 9am-5pm.B30. WP27

Jim ThOmpsON hOuse

KAMTHIENG HOUSE Ñ This 200-year-old Northern Thai Lanna-style wooden house contains a collection of traditional agricultural tools and sits in the grounds of the Siam Society, which also holds regular lectures, seminars and workshops. Siam Society, 131 Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asoke), 02-661-6470. BTS Asoke. Open Tue-Sat. 9am-5pm. B100 for adults, B50 for children. www.siamsociety. org ZB3 MUSEUM SIAM Ñ The old Ministry of Commerce is now an innovative, technologydriven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-225-2777.

Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm.B300. www. museumsiam.com WQ23

VIMANMEK PALACE Ñ With 12 separate museums in the compound, you could easily spend the day here. The site houses the royal museums of photography, clocks, textiles and silk, but the gorgeous teak buildings are the real draw. Strict dresscode (see their website for details). Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300/9. Open daily 9:30am-4pm. B100. www. vimanmek.com SUAN PAKKAD PALACE Ñ This former royal household once belonged to their Royal Highnesses Prince and Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga. Its eight Thai-style houses showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period. 02-354 Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-246-1775/6 ext 229.

BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www.suanpakkad.com

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dining BANGKOK Above 11

PATTRAyUTH PEANTHAM

The latest drinking and dining option to arrive on nightlife strip Sukhumvit Soi 11 is Above 11, a rooftop bar and restaurant up on the 32nd floor of the Fraser Suites. The twist is the concept, as Above 11 focuses on Nikkei cuisine, a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors resulting from the large wave of Japanese emigration to the South American country over 120 years ago.

The result is a brief but intriguing menu featuring Nikkei classics like cebiche (B550) which combines seabass, prawns and a spicy sauce topped with deep fried calamari, and sudado (B530), a traditional Peruvian fish stew with clams in aji amarillo chili and Japanese pumpkin broth. It’s all served in a charming semi-alfresco setting that features fake grass, tree-shaped lamps and an outdoor space filled with wooden seating. The inventive cocktails feature pisco (a kind of grape brandy) or sake. Try the pisco sour (B350), pisco, lime juice and bitters topped with egg white foam. 32/F Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02207-9300. www.aboveeleven.com ZA1

DOWNTOWN BoqueriA Ñ French/Italian. $$$$ This venue focuses on classic dishes with a Mediterranean leaning. G/F, CRC Tower, All Season Place, 87/2 Witthayu Rd., 02-685-3930/1. BTS Phloen Chit.

Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. YN21

BOqueriA

celAdoN Ñ Thai. $$$$ Surrounded by lotus ponds, CeladonÕ s Thai pavilion contains elegant candlelit interiors that help accentuate the refined set menus, such as the seven-course Bai Horapa set.

13/3 South Sathorn Rd., 02-344-8888. Open daily noon-3pm, 6:30-11pm. www.sukhothai.com. driNkiNg TeA, eATiNg rice Ñ Japanese. $$$$ Stylishly simple in design, this restaurant allows the food to take center stage. Choose from top-quality sushi, sashimi, teppanyaki and kaiseki

options, and wash it down with their extensive sake collection. 3/F, The Conrad Hotel, 87 Witthayu Rd., 02-690-9999. BTS Phloen Chit.

Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm. YN21 dÕ SeNS Ñ French. $$$$ The French-imported eatery by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers has all the oomph one might expect. The dimly-lit dining room is ultra-chic, and the food is bold and exciting. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000 ext. 2499. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10pm. XF10 diNe iN The dArk Ñ International. $$$ Choose between meat, seafood or vegetarianÑ no other detailsÑ and then step into complete darkness where visually-impaired staff serve as your personal guides and waiters. The three-course set menu is B750-B850 with 10% of profits donated to foundations for the visually-impaired. 2/F, The Ascott Sathorn, 02-676-6676. Open daily 7:3011:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi. Xh13 eAT Me Ñ International. $$$$ The dŽ cor is a cool yet cozy mŽ lange of industrial, natural and artistic.

The kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng.

Open daily 3pm-1am. Xg11

erAwAN TeA rooM Ñ Thai. $$$$ With a classy oriental dŽ cor, five-star service and a fine tea selection, Erawan Tea Room also impresses with its authentic Thai dishes and monthly-themed menus. 2/F, Erawan Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02254-1234. Open daily 10am-10pm. YN18

Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$

Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Area guide downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

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dining giANNi riSTorANTe Ñ Italian. $$$$ Ò GianniÕ s,Ó as itÕ s referred to by most, has earned its following with consistently outstanding food, an elegant atmosphere and smooth service. 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-652-2922. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm. YM20

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4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., Sathorn Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

JiM ThoMpSoN BAr & reSTAurANT Ñ Thai. $$$ Located in the former home of Siamese silk expert Jim Thompson, the open-air restaurant by a small lotus pond and its air-con dining room have been serving up authentic Thai food and simple Western dishes for years. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, 02-612-3601. www.jimthompson. com. Open daily 9am-5pm, 7-11pm. YM15 lA MoNiTA TAqueriA Ñ Mexican. $$ Handsdown the best place for a quesadilla or fish taco.

The dŽ cor and service arenÕ t much, but you wonÕ t care after your third Reposado Margarita.

Mahatun Plaza, 888/26 Phloenchit Rd., 02-6509581. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am10pm. YM21

GiANNi

gAggAN Ñ Indian. $$$$ After a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02652-1700. BTS Chit Lom. 6pm-midnight. Yo19 iSSAyA SiAMeSe cluB Ñ Thai. $$$-$$ $$ Chef Ian Kittichai returns to his home country with this restaurant, set in a delightful wooden mansion and featuring inventive twists on classic recipes.

Medici Ñ Italian. $$$$ Tuscan-born chef Francesco Lenzi whips up his hometownÕ s specialties surrounded by a neo-industrial interior that is reminiscent of 1910 Chicago. Hotel Muse, 55/555 Langsuan Rd., 02-630-4006. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm. 6pm-midnight. YN19 NAhM Ñ Thai. $$$$ Former holder of a Michelin star, David ThompsonÕ s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open daily noon-2pm, 7-11pm. Xg13

nEW >

WhaleÕ s Belly

This ocean-themed eatery is the brain child of three friends who all went to cooking school together.

The dŽ cor of this huge space is suitably nautical: a lot of navy blue, a wavy white ceiling evoking the ribs of a whaleÕ s belly and even the occasional shipÕ s wheel. The food is pretty classical, though there is also the occasional Asian touch, with dishes like lacquered Chilean seabass with orange miso emulsion, shiitake and teriyaki sauce and interesting twists on down-to-earth comfort food like the mac & cheese duo of ravioli. 39 Boulevard, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-160-0333. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. ZB4

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dining NiuÕ S Ñ Italian. $$$$ Muted tones, crisp white tablecloths and large windows let the inventive and delicious Italian food take center stage. NiuÕ s also has an extensive wine list and top-name jazz acts downstairs. Baan Silom, 661 Silom Rd., 02266-5333. Open daily 5pm-1am. Xi10 reFlexioNS Ñ French. $$$$ Elegant but edgy, with its raw black-and-white photographs of Bangkok, Reflexions is authentic French food without the stuffiness. Chef Thibault Chiumenti cooks with an eye for tradition and bold flavors. 3/F, Plaza AthŽ nŽ e, 61 Witthayu Rd., 02-650-8800. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm. YN21

rueN urAi Ñ Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house, decorated in a blend of contemporary furniture and rare Thai crafts, it offers a polished menu of solid recipes. Rose Hotel, 188, Surawong Rd., 02266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. XF8 ShiNTAro Ñ Japanese. $$$ Located in a corner of the high-end hotel, this cozy restaurant draws the glam crowd. The food is equally trendy, with dishes like sushi-pizza and California rolls.

G/F, Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-251-6127. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5-10:30pm. YN18 SrA BuA Ñ Thai. $$$$ The sister of Michelinstarred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen offers up Thai food with a contemporary, almost molecular, twist in a soaring palace dotted with rice fields. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02162-9000. BTS Siam. Open daily noon-11pm. Yl17 TAliNg pliNgÑ Thai. $$-$$$ This old favorite sees Bangkokians rub shoulders with tourists to enjoy classic Thai dishes and some lesser known options in a charming old house. 60 Soi Pan, Silom Rd., 02-234-4872. BTS Chong Nonsi.

Open daily 11am-10pm. Xi11

reflexiONs

ZuMA Ñ Japanese. $$$$ Their generous salads mix avocado and fresh sushi. The bar is made from a single, monumental slab of stone and the garden is air conditioned. ItÕ s all wonderfully glamorous. G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-636-0002. Open Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm. YN18

LOWer SukhumviT 11 gAllery Ñ Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34, Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. ZB1 kuppA Ñ International. $$$ Best-known as a lunch venue, KuppaÕ s reliable menu of pastas, salads, desserts and great coffee has changed little over the years. Throw in comfy couches and floor-toceiling windows, and youÕ ve got one chill spot. 39 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-663-0495, 02-663-8806.

Open daily 10am-10:30pm. Zd3 MA du Zi reSTAurANT By yuyAi Ñ Japanese. $$$ With a stint at a Joel Robuchon restaurant in Tokyo, Japanese Chef yuya OkudaÕ s food is very recognizably French, only with very light, very subtle exotic touches. Maduzi Hotel, 9/1 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-615-6400. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm. Zd3 roSABieNg Ñ Thai. $-$$ This two-story wooden house-turned-restaurant is a great place for those seeking an introduction to Thai food, thanks to its broad menu of properly executed dishes. 3 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-253-5868. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Sat 11am-11pm. ZB1 SNApper Ñ Seafood. $$ This laidback and minimally-nautical restaurant, with its picnic style benches and tables, specializes in sustainably fished New Zealand seafood and interesting fish nÕ chips. 1/22 Sukhumvit Soi 11, BTS Nana. 02-651-1098. Open Tue-Sun, 5pmmidnight. ZB1 SeAFood BAr Ñ Seafood. $$$ Owned by an oyster importer, this restaurant features 20 types of oysters and a range of perfectly grilled fish dishes cooked with a modern American approach.

Somerset Lake Place, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02663-8863, Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun noon-3pm, 6-10pm. BTS Asok. Zd3

upper SukhumviT BAcco Ñ Italian. $$$ This relaxed, slightly rustic eatery packs in the diners nightly, thanks to its extensive menu of authentic regional specialties.

35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-662-4538. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-midnight.

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Streetwise>

Sukhumvit Soi 38

Thai cuisine with its intriguing (if sometimes bewildering) blends of spices, aromas and flavors is justifiably famous the world over, which is why visitors to Bangkok are so keen to try the real thing for themselves. While there are plenty of good Thai restaurants in the city, if you want the real deal, then you have to hit the streets. Stalls and carts are literally everywhere, but for a simple, central spot that has a good range of dishes, your best bet is to head to Sukhumvit Soi 38 (by BTS Thong Lo) after 7pm. On this side street youÕ ll find a host of stalls offering everything from a classic pad Thai to a bowl of bamee moo daeng (egg noodles with roast pork). Personally, we love the sweet treats here: donÕ t miss the mango sticky rice from the stall in a small alley on the right hand side as you enter the soi; or try the cheng sim ii, a Thai-Chinese dessert featuring a mix of nuts and longan juice, available at one of the last stalls on the left hand side of the street. Sukhumvit Soi 38, Sukhumvit Rd. BTS Thong Lo. Tue-Sun 7pm-1/2am.

Bo.lAN Ñ Thai. $$$ Chefs Bo and Dylan offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a charming house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes seasonally. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962.

Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pm-midnight. Zd5 currieS ANd More By BAAN kANiThA Ñ Thai. $$$-$$$$ Choose from the hip wine bar or the beautiful cream-colored house to enjoy dishes that range from traditional favorites to daring fusion offerings. 31 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-259-8530/-5. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 11am-11pm. Zc6

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dining iNduS Ñ Indian. $$$ An ambient spot with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual north Indian favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. Ze5

Top Wine Venues AldoÕ s

One of the few restaurants in the city that is repeatedly recognized in Wine Spectator Magazine, thanks to its long and broad wine list.

7/F, The Ascott, 187 Sathorn Rd., 02-676-6982.

Open daily 11:30am-midnight.

iSAo Ñ Japanese. $$$-$$$$ Despite the standard izakaya facade, Isao offers something differentÑJa panese cuisine with distinctly American twists, thanks to the chefÕ s apprenticeship at the Green Tea sushi bar in Chicago. 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645/6.

Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, SatSun 11am-10pm. Zc4 NApA oN 26Ñ International. $$$$ Inspired by the long list of primarily Napa Valley wines served here, the kitchen serves full-flavored dishes that stand out for their perfectly cooked meats and seafood. 2/F, Nihonmachi (behind K-Village), Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-2622. Open Tue-Fri 4-11:30pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm.

NeAr equAl Ñ Thai. $$-$$$ A new location for a long-term favorite in a charming house down a beautifully leafy street. Upstairs the wood floors and antique pieces make for a charming spot to enjoy well-balanced Thai dishes; then head downstairs to browse the selection of Thai furniture and handicrafts on sale. 22/2 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-258-1565 Zc5

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wine connection

NeAr equAl

ThONGLOr/ekkAmAi 4 gArcoNS Ñ French. $$$ Cooked by a Thai doctor, this classic French fare is served in a warm and elegant atmosphere. 1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-713-9547.

Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm. ZB6 BoNJour Ñ French. $$$$ Fine French dishes served in a bourgeois villa that boasts velvet lounge chairs and a small tropical garden. 1217/2 Sukhumvit Soi 59, 02-714-2112. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-1am. Zc6

Opened in 2010, this is perhaps the place that kicked off BangkokÕ s wine obsession. Affordable wines, a relaxed setting and a choice of tasty pizzas and pastas explain why.

G/F, K Village, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-661-3940.

Open daily 10-1am.

wine loft

This latest branch of the wine store-cum-bar, set in this pleasant community mall, is a relaxed spot to sample a range of different wines by the glass and half glass.

The Portico Langsuan, Langsuan Rd., 02-6521965-6. Open daily 11am-midnight.

wine pub

We love Wine Pub because of three things: the great selection of wines, the excellent cold cuts selection and the intriguing daily deals.

2/F, Pullman Bangkok King Power, Rangnam Rd., 02-680-9999. Open daily 6pm-2am.

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dining FuZio Ñ Italian. $$$$ Classic Italian recipes mixed with just enough modern touches to suit the locale and clientele. A rooftop location and contemporary dŽ cor make for a special experience. 6/F, Mini Showroom, 99/99 Ekkamai Soi 7, 02-711-6999. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. ZB7 hArvey Ñ American, International. $$$$ A very popular spot with the townÕ s movers and shakers the food encompasses modern interpretations of American, French and Italian cuisine. 129 Thonglor Soi 9, 02-712-9911. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-11pm. ZB6 khuN churN Ñ Thai/Vegetarian. $-$$ This family-run eatery, tucked away in the relatively quiet Bangkok Mediplex, has a classy-yet-casual atmosphere and serves up down-to-earth yet delicious meat-free Thai meals. G/F, Bangkok Mediplex Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 42, 02-713-6599.

Open daily 10am-8pm. Zd7 phukeT TowN Ñ Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional Southern-style dishes like kanom chine namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that has plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches. Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm. Zc6

riverSiDe Mei JiANg Ñ Chinese. $$$$ This elegant establishment overlooking the Chao Phraya River offers one of the best dim sum experiences in town. The food is authentic Cantonese, while the service is knowledgeable and courteous. The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-861-2888. BTS Saphan Taksin. Open daily 11:30am 2:30pm, 6-10:30pm.

SupATrA riverSide Ñ Thai. $$$$ Situated on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River, the view of Wat Arun and the Grand Palace from the terrace of this Thai house is amazing.

ThereÕ s regular cultural performances and a range of classic Thai dishes. Free boat transfer from Maharaj Pier. 266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arunamarin Rd., 02-411-0305. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm. Wp26 The deck Ñ Thai/International. $$$ Book in advance for one of the best spots, out on the second floor terrace, and enjoy the amazing view of Wat Arun across the river. The wellexecuted menu covers Thai and European dishes. 36-38 Soi Pratu Nokyung, Maharat Rd., 02-221-9158. Open Mon-Thu 7am-10pm, FriSun 7am-11pm. Wq23

le NorMANdie Ñ French. $$$$ The Mandarin OrientalÕ s showcase restaurant has set the standard for service and cuisine for yearsÑ and the river views arenÕ t bad either. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-6599000. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm; daily 7-10:30pm. XJ11

le NOrmANdie

veNice vANiche Ñ Thai. $$$ Sat meters from the Grand Palace, this restuarant offers some great views, a pleasant breezy terrace on the second floor and a large menu of classic Thai dishes. 1/12 Soi Maharaj, Maharaj Rd., 02-2228082. Open daily 11am-midnight. Wp26

Soul Food MAhANAkorN Ñ Thai. $$-$$$ Soul Food dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails, as well as a brief menu of well executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect on the hip crowd and the place is packed most nights. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-midnight. Zc6 SurFAce Ñ French. $$$ Their outdoors vibe, thanks to the conservatory style interior and the daybeds set out among their vegetable garden, matches the overall farm-to-table concept of Surface: classic French dishes from produce that they largely grow themselves. 107 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-258-2858/7597. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6-11pm, Sat-Sun 10am-2pm. ZB6 wATer liBrAry Ñ International. $$$$ A restaurant that serves a maximum of ten diners per night, with a 12-course set menu using the very best ingredients that starts at 7.30pm on the dot prepared in front of you by an army of chefs. ItÕ s very sophisticated, very sexy and yes, itÕ s expensive, but also very memorable. Grass, Thonglor Soi12, 02-714-9292/-3. Open MonSat 6pm-1am. ZB64 xuAN MAi Ñ Vietnamese. $$$ Probably the best Vietnamese restaurant in Bangkok, this is where former beauty queen-then-FBI agent chef Meyung Robson sources the best ingredients, often direct from Vietnam, and cooks them perfectly from traditional recipes. Try the bahn mo thit (Vietnamese sandwich) and cha ca Hanoi (grilled cat fish). 351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-185-2619. Open Tue-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 11:30am-midnight; Sun 11:30am10pm. ZA6

nEW >

The Local

The name of this new restaurant sums up its concept nicely: chef and co-owner Can Markawat keeps the focus on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find recipes. Sample gang run juan (beef in spicy herbal soup) from the Rama V era, and pla paak nam (seafood in red curry paste), a recipe taken from SiamÕ s first cookbook, Mae Krua Hua Pa. TheyÕ re all served in a beautiful hundred-year-old house whose individual rooms take their inspiration from different Thai places and objects. If you want to learn more, the owner runs cooking lessons every Wednesday. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm

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BANGKOK nightlife

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the Speakeasy Located atop the recently opened Hotel Muse Bangkok, The Speakeasy takes you back to the jazz age of the roaring twenties. The two-storey space sports a suitably prohibition-chic inspired décor, featuring lots of dark woods and mysterious hues. A balcony on level 24 lets you take in 180-degree views of Bangkok’s business district, while an alfresco rooftop offers a more leisurely ambiance in a faux garden. The must-try drinks are a series of long-forgotten classic cocktails that really pack a punch, like the Sazerac 1838 (B350), which combines Jack Daniels, absinthe and bitters. 24-25/F, Hotel Muse Bangkok, 55/555 Langsuan Rd., 02-630-4000.

Open daily 6pm-1am. YN19

Downtown Bed SuppercluB Ñ BangkokÕ s leading club, with a space-age interior, is divided into two sidesÑ the restaurant, which offers creative food and cutting-edge performances; and the club, where beautiful people dance to everything from house to drum nÕ bass. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. Open daily 7pm-2am. www. bedsupperclub.com ZA1

THe ST regiS BAr Ñ With a great New York Mad Men vibe and impressive views, this spot also boasts a daily champagne sabrage and their Thai take on the bloody mary. 12/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily noon-1am. www.stregis. com. YN18

RiveRsiDe

264 Thonglor Soi 12, 02-714-9832. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZB6 irON FAirieS Ñ Like no other bar in Bangkok, it actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies. A great live band and powerful cocktails make this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 084-520-2301. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. ZB6

Hyde & Seek Ñ Elevated pub grub, arguably BangkokÕ s best cocktail menu and dŽ cor that conjures up both Victorian drawing room gravitas and NYC sophisticationÑ itÕ s no wonder this place is so popular. AthŽ nŽ e Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-168-5152-3. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. YM21

ViVA & AViV Ñ Fitting for its riverside location, this new venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nauticallyinspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive, well-made cocktails and pub grub.

River City Complex, 23 Yota Rd., 02-639-6305.

Open daily 11am-midnight. www.vivaaviv.com

thongLoR/ekkamai

MellOw Ñ Another popular spot for dining and drinking, Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, well-off locals. TheyÕ re attracted by the warm, wood-heavy dŽ cor with beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and delicious cocktails. 1/F, PennyÕ s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am. ZA6

OSkAr Ñ A comforting menu, a long list of drinks and a great DJ mean this bistro, in the heart of club land, has fast become a popular spot for pre-club drinks and dinner. 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255 3377. Open daily 4pm-2am. ZA1

clOudS Ñ The futuristic vision is certainly strikingÑ from the undulating ceiling, sporting anything from roses to Barbie dolls, to the acrylic seating inset with leaves. Potent cocktails from the laboratory of a bar add to the techno-ecoinspired theme. G/F, Seenspace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2365. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZB6

w Xyz Ñ Hidden on the mezzanine of a savvy new hotel, this bar serves up one of the largest range of molecular cocktails in town. Its LED-lit floor and ceiling makes the space a sensual lounge to meet and mingle people. Aloft Bangkok, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-7000. Open daily 6pm-1am. ZA1

FAT guTÕ z SAlOON Ñ Sitting on the corner of a small lifestyle mall, this hole-in-the-wall reminds us of a New Orleans speakeasy, with its dark panelled walls and matching furniture. A bluesfuelled band, interesting cocktails and fish nÕ chips are the house specials. 1/F, Grass Thonglor,

wTF Ñ A collaboration between an art curator, a hip hotelier and a photojournalist, WTF is actually a hybrid bar and exhibition space thatÕ s incredibly popular with BangkokÕ s creative expats and local hipsters. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246.

Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. Zc5

Q BAr Ñ The Soi 11 institution continues to deliver a heady mix of bass lines and international DJs. Its large outdoor patio is a great spot to kick back with friends, while the recently renovated downstairs level, featuring a serious dance floor and three bars, is perfect for serious beat addicts. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-3274.

Open daily 8pm-1am. ZA1

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ShopS+ServiceS BANGKOK

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATTRAYUTH PEANTHAM

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AsiAtique

Life on the river It seems Bangkok just can’t get enough of malls to escape the summer heat, but don’t shake your heads just yet, this new shopping center is the first to sit on the banks of the Chao Phraya River. Moreover, Asiatique The riverfront is themed according to the city’s architecture of old, and features a very distinctive atmosphere. Divided into several sections, the Charoenkrung District counts over 1,000 boutiques, the Town Square combines eastern and Western culture with a variety of eateries, beer gardens and an outdoor activity square, the Factory District is set in a 100 year-old refurbished saw-mill with over 500 fashion stores, and finally the waterfront highlights the unique setting, with international restaurants, wine bars and a panoramic view of the Chao Phraya. The gigantic venue is also home to five stages which will welcome extravagant shows from cabaret girls and the award-winning joe Louis puppet theater to the famous transgender extravaganza from Calypso Bangkok. To get there, catch the free ferry from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin). 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488.

Downtown AmArin PlAzA Ñ The mallÕ s Greco-Roman fa• ade actually hides some unexpected gems.

ID1 on the first floor holds an interesting collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs.

496-502 Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-4704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com Ym18 CentrAl Chidlom Ñ The closest thing Bangkok has to Harrods, Central Chidlom, first opened in 1973 and remains the Central GroupÕ s flagship department store. ItÕ s packed with leading brands, like Bottega Venetta, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. DonÕ t miss the impressive Food Hall on the ground floor and the views from the international food court, up on the seventh. 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www. central.co.th Ym19 CentrAlWorld Ñ Southeast AsiaÕ s largest lifestyle shopping complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000 sq meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. ItÕ s a good spot for top brands like Topshop, Gap and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites like Singha Life and Disaya.

Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www. centralworld.co.th Ym18

erAWAn BAngkok Ñ This mini-mall might look petite, but its three floors offer some high-end boutiques you canÕ t find elsewhere, including unique Club 21 stores, like Yohji Yamamoto, Dior Homme and Lanvin. 494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-2507777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com Ym18

gAysorn Ñ ThailandÕ s leading high-end mall is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Celine) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1149. BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com Ym18 mBk Center Ñ Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirsÑ you can find it all here and all at bargain prices. As a result, the confusing chaos of MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesnÕ t always mean good. Still itÕ s fun and thereÕ s a popular Thai food court on the 6th floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www.mbk-center.co.th Ym16 PlAtinum FAshion mAll Ñ Platinum is BangkokÕ s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the cityÕ s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashionrelated from womenÕ s shoes to menÕ s suits. And

donÕ t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even single items are very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. BTS Ratchathewi. www. platinumfashionmall.com Yk18 siAm Center Ñ One of the longest-standing shopping malls in Bangkok, it remains a favorite with teen shoppers, thanks to a recent facelift and the cool, cutting-edge local brands that call it home. Siam on Third (3/F) features established Thai fashion designers, while Mob.F (4/F) lets the new wave showcase their work. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamcenter.co.th Ym17

siAm disCovery Center Ñ The sister mall of Siam Center just celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame TussaudÕ s wax museum. It also remains the place to come for Thai furniture brands. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000.

BTS Siam. www.siamdiscoverycenter.co.th YM16 siAm PArAgon Ñ With a prime location next to the cityÕ s busiest BTS station, its towering glass fa• ade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like Mango and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World, Southeast AsiaÕ s biggest aquarium, a bowling alley, a

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ShopS+ServiceS concert venue and a cinema. As well as lots of restaurants, thereÕ s also a food court in the basement. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamparagon.co.th Ym17

Sukhumvit the emPorium Ñ Set in the heart of the cityÕ s upscale residential area (home to BangkokÕ s largest Japanese community), The Emporium offers luxury shopping without the crowds, thanks to their tenant portfolio, which includes brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Prada, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal, Thann and Jim Thompson. There are also lots of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative Design Center. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www. emporiumthailand.com ZC4

ChAtuChAk mArket Ñ Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is one of the worldÕ s largest weekend markets. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections, roughly categorized by the products on offer. You can literally spend the weekend here amid the rabbit warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: Books are in Section 1,

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while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and youÕ ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 1024 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home-decor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/ Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.chatuchak.org

Shopping Walk>

Charoen Krung Road

terminAl 21 Ñ One of BangkokÕ s newest shopping complexes boasts an airport terminalcum-international destinations theme. As you travel through the nine floors you can stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the higher floors offer a host of intriguing boutiques by Thai designers.

ThereÕ s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888.

BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21. co.th ZB3 river City

Start from river City, which is both a mini-mall and auction house with a focus on Asian antiques where you could get anything from Burmese lacquerware to a pair of Thai Naga snakes. On your way down Captain Bush lane, swing by the small row of warehouses home to Ptendercool (massive, sculptural tables made locally) and Warp 54 studio (pop portraits with an Asian focus).

On Charoen Krung Road itself, youÕ ll walk past a multitude of antiques, jewelery and tailor shops catering to the riverside hotelsÕ guestsÑ beautiful stuff, but it doesnÕ t come cheap. Pop into o.P. garden for a visit to Serindia Gallery (a top-notch showcase of mostly Tibetan and Himalayan art and photography), then make your way to The Mandarin Oriental where lotus Art de vivre stocks some of the most refined craftsmanship in Thailand.

ElSEwhErE CrystAl design Center Ñ Designer chairs, platinum faucets, leather sofas and a lot more home dŽ cor products are the main draw for CDC Phase 1, while Phase 2 is filled with restaurants and bars, cute cafŽ s, fashion boutiques and home dŽ cor stores.

ItÕ s not the easiest place to get to, though: we recommend a taxi from MRT Lad Phrao.

1420/1 Praditmanutham Rd., Klongchan, 02101-5999. www.crystaldesigncenter.com oP PlACe Ñ Situated in a beautiful neoclassicalstyle building close to the river, this gorgeous luxury mall oozes charm from the sweeping wooden staircase to the antique lift. The plushly-carpeted halls are home to a host of high-end boutiques offering unique and rare antiques and artifacts from across Southeast Asia, hand crafted jewellery, bespoke tailors and fine art. The Ashwood Gallery that occupies the whole third floor is home to some particularly striking pieces. ThereÕ s also a free shuttle service to the neighboring OP Garden, which houses an art gallery, restaurants and high-end boutiques. 30/1 Soi 38, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-266-0186. Open daily 10:30am-7pm. XJ11

mArkEtS rAtChAdA night mArket Ñ Apart from vintage cars, motorbikes, bicycles and parts, youÕ ll find old and new home dŽ cor items, secondhand books, fashion apparel, handcrafted products and even some lethal cocktails at the 200-plus stalls.

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HEALTH + WELLNESS bangkok NEW >

Apex Medi Spa Renowned beauty clinic APEX Profound Beauty has gone decidely upscale with its new venture, a total rejuvenating treatment center and spa retreat in the heart of Thong Lor. Set just behind the Ei8ht Thonglor residentail/retail complex, APEX Medi Spa features in-patient rooms, treatment suites, a restaurant and swimming pool. Programs range from three-hour spa treatments to seven-day weight-loss packages. The highlight is the cell therapy detox (See feature page 5).

208/1-3, Thonglor Soi 8, 02-713-8331-2. aPEX MEDI SPa

Open daily 8:30am-8:30pm. ZC6

SPA I.SAWAN Ñ With its Tony Chi design, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club and its residential cottages and treatment bungalows is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a fitness club, tennis and squash courts and a 25-meter pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am-11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt. com YN18 HEALTH LAND Ñ Health Land has built its sizeable reputation on a blend of affordable prices and expert masseuses. There are branches throughout town. 120 North Sathorn Rd. , 02-637-8883. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 9am-11pm. More branches: www.healthlandspa. com XG13 LETÕ S RELAX Ñ With branches in tourist destinations around Thailand, and a wide variety of packages and trained masseuses, LetÕ s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-6626935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight. More branches: www.letsrelaxspa.com ZB3

trAditionAl thAi mASSAge A major tourist attraction, Wat Po is just as as famous for its massage school as it is for its 46-meter-long Reclining Buddha. Never mind that thereÕ s usually a long wait and little privacy once youÕ re inside: massage treatments at this traditional Thai massage school never cease to attract those who want the real deal. Wat PoÕ s history as a center for Thai massage dates back to 1843, when King Rama III commissioned 60 diagrams depicting various massage techniques to be inscribed on the templeÕ s marble walls. If you feel inspired to learn the art yourself, enroll in the templeÕ s training classes. Wat Po (Wat Prachetuphon), 2 Sanamchai Rd., Phra Nakhon, 02-225-4771. Open daily 8am-6pm. www. watpomassage.com WQ24

ELEMIS SPA Ñ The Elemis Spa is a first in SE Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant settingÑ the city view from the couplesÕ room is breathtakingÑ and the ancient Arabian sauna in the Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-2077777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am10pm. www.stregis.com/bangkok YN18

PANPURI ORGANIC SPA Ñ Hidden behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of the high-end spa.

The small-but-beautiful space welcomes you with black stone and gold mosaics and a host of treatments using exclusive products. Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1199.

Open daily 10-8pm. www.panpuri.com IM18 S MEDICAL SPA Ñ Founded by a renowned local anti-aging physician, the award-winning spa creates beauty from within, with a selection of integrated wellness programs. 2/2 Bhakdi Bldg., Wireless Rd., 02-253-1010. BTS Ploenchit. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.smedspa.com YL20

ElEMIS SPa

MULBERRY SPA Ñ Set in a 60s-style residential compound, Mulberry Spa offers all the usual selection of treatments amid a classy-yet-cozy ambiance. 132 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1888.

MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 9am-11pm. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.mulberryspa.com ZB3 THE ORIENTAL SPA Ñ As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000.

Open daily 9am-10pm. www.mandarinoriental. com/bangkok/spa XJ11 OASIS SPA SUkHUMvIT 51 Ñ Hidden away in a bohemian house surrounded by a lush tropical garden itÕ s a tranquil spot in the heart of downtown. The seven private rooms are decked out with oriental details and equipped with Jacuzzi hydrotherapy and herbal steam baths.

Get pampered with their 90-minute NorthernThai-inspired treatment (The Voyage of Golden Lanna, B5,900). Sukhumvit 51, 88 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-262-2122. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.oasisspa.net ZC5

SPA BOTANICA Ñ Surrounded by the lush gardens of the Sukothai Hotel, Spa Botanica is an urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best massage options.

13/3 South Sathorn Rd, 02-2344-8900. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.sukhothai.com XG13 THANN SANCTUARY SPA Ñ THANN Sanctuary offers a variety of treatments based on THANNÕ s world class spa products within a tranquil space bathed in warm grey and soothing lights. 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.thann.info YM18

TRIA Ñ Tria is not just a spa: this sanctuary, hidden behind Piyavate Hospital, is a rejuvenation center offering integrated programs. As well as over 50 treatment rooms, there are also hydrotherapy pools, a restaurant and residences for long-term treatments. 998 Ronkhlongsamsen Rd., 02-6602602. Open Mon-Fri 7am-10pm, Sat 7am-9pm, Sun 7am-8:30pm. www.triaintegrativewellness. com URBAN RETREAT Ñ Urban RetreatÕ s branches offer relaxing havens from the city in the middle of town. 31/10 Soi Phromjai, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-204-2008/9. Open daily 10am-10pm. More branches: www.urbanretreatspa.net

28 W H E R E T H A I L AND I j une 2 0 1 2

HEALTH AND WELLNESS_june12_2_NEW.indd 28

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bangkok Navigate

overview

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Asiatique

Victory Monument

Main road

Chatuchak Market

Thailand Cultural Center

BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

Vimanmek Mansion

Yaowarat (China Town)

BTS (Silom Line)

Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

MRT

Khaosan Road

Lumpini Park

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

Queen Sirikit National Convention Center

River/Klong (canal)

Wat Po

Siam Paragon Shopping Center

Pier

Wat Arun

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

june 2012 I W HERE THA ILA N D 29

Navigate listing_june12_NEW.indd 29

5/25/12 6:52 PM

Y

Navigate GET MOVING AIRPORT LINkÑ The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (connecting to the MRT, but itÕ s a long walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 15 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 30 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check their bags at Makkasan City Terminal. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B90 for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.

Z Dining

picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are between B9 and B19, depending on distance and are purchased on board.

CANAL BOATSÑ

While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only one canal still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Ban Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town, stopping off at various piers along the way.

Be warned though, the boats donÕ t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nervewracking (and physically-challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal (klong) water, any

BUSESÑ

The bus is a popular (if slow) budgettravel choice in Bangkok. The Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (BMTA) operates an extensive number of routes throughout Bangkok and its nearby provinces.

There are two types of buses: non-air-con and aircon. Fares for non-air-con buses are B6.5-7.5 while fares for air-conditioned buses are B10-23, depending on the distance. Fares are paid to on-board staff, who rarely speak English. Visit www.bmta.co.th for a list of routes and schedules.

TO BANG SUE STATION

2

3

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Shopping

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by Baan Kanitha C6 8. Fuzio B7 9. Harvey B6 10. Indus E5 11. Isao C4 12. Khun Churn D7 13. Kuppa D3 14. Ma du Zi Restaurant by Yuyai D3 15. Near Equal C5 16. Phuket Town C6 17. Rosabieng B1 18. Seafood Bar D3 19. Snapper B1 20. Soul Food Mahanakorn C6 21. Surface B6 22. Water Library B6 23. Xuan mai A6

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These fast, TUk-TUkÑ Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of 25 26 around Bangkok, not 27to mention great photo28 1 getting frequent and24cheap ferries along the Chao Phraya 6 River are a great way to get a different perspective opportunities.

However, there is no guarantee of Wang Lang Pier Tha Phrachan Pier Tha Tien Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇѧËÅѧ ·‹Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã ·‹ÒàµÕ¹ on the city, as well as a good option for getting to beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on 3 many of the temples and palaces built along the river. a price before getting in. Haggle hard and be wary of The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS any cheap offers if you donÕ t want an unexpected trip Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from to a tailor or gem store.

8 here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from9B9 to B32 depending on 1 4 1 10 distance.

You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), Wat Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes Wat Pho ÇѴ⾸Ô์ with an excellent guide booklet to some of the leading 3 Phra Athit Pier tourist attractions accessible from the river. ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

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EXPRESS RIVER BOATSÑ

INTERCITy WatBUSESÑ There are three main Rajapardit stations for busesÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃÐ´Ô outÉ° of town. The Northern Bus Terminal or Mo Chit (02-936-2841/-3) is located a taxi ride away from Mo Chit BTS/Kamphaeng Phet MRT Wat Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·Ñȹ and services Northern and Northeastern Thailand as well as some Eastern destinations. The Eastern Bus Terminal (02-391-2504) is located right by BTS Ekkamai and has buses departing to Pattaya, Rayong, Koh Samed and Trat. Finally, the Southern Bus Terminal or Sai Tai (02-894-6122) is located across the river at The Old Siam Plaza Thonburi on Boromratchachonnanee Road and servicˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ es Western (Kanchanaburi) and Southern Thailand, China World ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ䫹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´ B urap a Rd including the islands of Phuket and Samui. .¶ ¹¹ºÙÃ

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7 2012 I W HERE THA ILA N D 31 june

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5/25/12 6:52 PM

7

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The Bangkok Skytrain (BTS) stops at BangkokÕ s main districts and gives you a birdÕ s eye view of the city.

H There are two main lines: the Silom Line, which runs from across the river in Wongwian Yai to National Stadium; and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading north up to Mo Chit station. Siam is the interchange station for the two lines.

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Bumrungrad International, (Sukhumvit Soi 1-3,3 02-667-1000, emergency 02-667-2999), Bangkok Hospital (Soi Soonvijai, Petchaburi Rd., 02-310-3000), BNH Hospital (Convent Rd., 02-686-2700), Samitivej Sukhumvit (Sukhumvit 49, 02-711-8181), Siriraj SiPH (PhranNarathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์ nok Rd., 1474).

ATMSÑ ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located Chong Nonsi §¹¹·ÃÕ You should easoutside of 7-Eleven convenienceª‹Ístores. ily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

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Soi Convent Fares are B15-B40 for both trains.«Í¤͹áǹµ Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special 3 cover a specified one-day tourist passes or tickets that number of trips. For more information, go to www. bts.co.th and www.bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

Bangkok metered taxis are readily Silom Soiavail4 able and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 7 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, thereÕ s no difference in prices and service. Some drivG ers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication.

Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price.

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Banking hours are generally 2. The Deck Q23 St. Louis Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒÅૹµ ËÅØÂÊ from 8:30am to 3:30pm, Monday through Friday 3. Venice Vaniche P26 Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ except on public holidays and bank holidays.

Banks 8 3 Health & Wellness in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

Theœ¹main banks are: 1. Wat Po Q24 Pan Rd. ¶¹¹»˜ 6 Bankgok Bank (1333, www.bangkokbank.com), Bank Surasak Art & Attractions ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ of Ayudhya (1572, www.krungsri.com), CIMB Thai 1. Grand Palace Q25 Soi Silom 19 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 1 5 (02-626-7777, www.cimbthai.com), Kasikorn Bank 2. Museum Siam Q23 3. National Gallery Q27 (02-888-8888, www.kasikornbank.com), Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´ÔKiatnakin ์ 4. National Museum Q27 Bank (02-680-3333, www.kiatnakin.co.th), Krungthai 5. Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall S26 Bank (1551, www.ktb.co.th), Siam Commercial Bank 6. Royal Barge Museum P27 (02-777-7777, www.scb.co.th), Standard Chartered Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡Ãا 7. The QueenÕ s Gallery Saphan Taksin S27 ÊоҹµÒ¡ÊÔ ¹ 8. Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles P25 Bank (1595, www.standardchartered.co.th), Thana9. Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) P22 chart Bank (1770, www.thanachartbank.com), Tisco 10. Wat Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald Bank (www.tisco.co.th), TMB Bank (02-299-1111, Central Pier Buddha) ·‹Q25 ÒàÃ×ÍÊоҹ¡Ãا෾ www.tmbbank.com), United Overseas Bank (02-285TO WONGWIAN YAI STATION 1555, www.uob.co.th).

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Nightlife

1. Hyde & Seek M21 2. Speakeasy M21 3. The St Regis Bar N18

Health & Wellness

1. Elemis Spa N18 2. i.sawan N18 3. Panpuri Organic Spa M18 4. S Medical Spa L20 5. Thann Sanctuary Spa M18

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Royal Bangkok Sports CLub

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1. Amarin Plaza M18 2. Central Chidlom M19 3. CentralWorld M18 4. Erawan Bangkok M18 5. Gaysorn M18 6. MBK Center M16 7. Pantip Plaza K17 8. Platinum Fashion Mall K18 9. Siam Center M17 10. Siam Discovery Center M16 11. Siam Paragon M17

Art & Attractions

1. 100 Tonson Gallery N20 2. Bangkok Art & Cultural Center (BACC) M16 3. Jim Thompson Art Center & House L1 5 4. Siam Ocean World M17 5. Sombat Permpoon Gallery L21 6. White Space Gallery M16

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS Emergency Services (Fire Brigade, Police) 191 Airport Rail Link 02-308-5600 http://airportraillink.railway.co.th Bangkok Metropolitan Administration Hotline 1555 Bangkok Taxi Call Center 1681 / 1661 Bangkok Mass Transit System (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily: 6ammidnight).

BTS Tourist Information Center : 02-617-7340-1 (daily : 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th Bangkok Metro (MRT) 02-6245200. www.bangkokmetro.co.th Chao Phraya Express Boat Call Center 02-623-6001-3 Suvanbhumi International Airport 1722/02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) Ð Call center 1672 or log into www.tourismthailand.org Tourist Police 24 hour call center 1155

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Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃس

Memorial Bri ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊ

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Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

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30 Things we LOve about Thailand

!3

6 1 Exploring the rich Lanna culture and amazing ancient temples on the charming streets of Chiang Mai. 2 Discovering Michelin-Starworthy, traditional Thai dishes at David ThompsonÕ s Nahm (G/F, Metropolitan, 02-625-3333).

@5 9 Exploring the home of secret agent and silk tycoon Jim Thompson (6 Soi Kasemsan 2, 02-216-7368), a complex of gorgeous Thai teak pavilions packed with Asian antiques. !0 Discovering the natural delights of

!6 Scaling the stunning limestone

@4 Taking a coffee-roasting

cliffs at Railay Beach.

course at the Doi Chaang (www. doichaangcoffee.com) plantation in Chiang Rai.

!7 Sitting ringside for a Thai boxing match at Lumpini Stadium (Rama IV Rd., MRT Lumpini, www. muaythailumpini.com).

Phu Kradueng National Park in Loei.

!8 Enjoying the cutting-edge 3 Browsing for cutting-edge fashions !1 Sipping a glass of Monsoon Valley from the exciting young designers at Mob F (4/F, Siam Center, BTS Siam).

4 Taking a long tail boat to Freedom Beach, the wonderfully inaccessible (and peaceful) beach in Phuket.

6 Experiencing the eerie beauty of the sacred Wat Rong Khun (aka The White Temple) in Chiang Rai.

7 Discovering the Dickensian delights of real-life fairy factory and bar, Iron Fairies (394 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 084-425-8080).

8 Learning how to kite surf on the breezy beach at Hua Hin, try Kite Boarding Asia (www.kiteboardingasia. com).

@5 Setting out on a boat trip from Koh Samui to explore the 40 stunning tropical islands of Angthong Marine National Park.

Cuvee de Siam while looking out over the rolling hills at Hua Hin Hills Vineyard (081-701-0222).

performances, alongside BangkokÕ s beautiful people at Bed Supperclub (26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537.

BTS Nana).

!2 Traversing the famous bridge and

!9 Getting up early to experience the

drinking in the memories along the River Kwai in Kanchanaburi.

floral delights and organized chaos of Pak Klong Talad flower market.

!3 Browsing the quirky stalls of the

@0 Enjoying tasty street eats from the

and challenging Championship level course at Mission Hills Phuket (www.missionhillsphuket.com).

retro-inspired riverside warehouses of Asiatique (2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488. Free ferry from BTS Saphan Taksin).

numerous stalls to be found in China TownÕ s Yaowarat Road.

@8 Walking Phuket TownÕ s heritage

@1 Escaping the stresses of modern

trail and experiencing the unique Baba-Nyonya architecture.

!4 Offering alms to Thai and Mon

living at one of BangkokÕ s meditation centers (try www.bia.or.th).

@9 Getting up close to a gentle giant

monks in the morning mist of Sangkhlaburi in Kanchanaburi.

@2 Spending a whole day of

5 Getting lost in the maze of alleys at Chatuchak Weekend Market (BTS Mo Chit/MRT Kamphaeng Phet).

!6

!5 Getting a glimpse of what Bangkok used to be like with a klong tour around the old canals (klongs) of Nonthaburi from Saphan Taksin Pier.

pampering with a wide selection of treatments at i.Sawan (5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan, 02-254-1234).

@6 Taking a bicycle trip around the floating markets, lush plantations and crumbling temples of Bang Krajao (Spice Roads, www.spiceroads.com).

@7 Playing 18 holes on the beautiful

with a day visit to the Elephant Nature Foundation (www. elephantnaturefoundation.org) just outside Chiang Mai.

#0 Soaking up the view of the @3 Being the first to see the sunrise from ThailandÕ s easternmost point at Pha Them in Ubon Ratchathani.

Andaman Sea from your private pool at the luxurious Sri Panwa (www. sripanwa.com) in Phuket.

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