Where® Thailand July 2012

Thailand

PLUS

j u ly 2 0 12 the complete guide to go ®

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Heritage island deluxe street eats sHopping for CHarity

NatioNal treasures Discovering Bangkok’s arts and antiques scene PLUS YOUR ULTIMATE GUIDE TO BANGKOK COVER__NEW.indd 1

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contents where

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l THAILAND l juLy 2012

the guide

Bangkok

18 arts+Culture The top galleries, attractions and museums and this month's exhibition highlights

20 dining Northeastern Thai food goes up market, and an expert reveals their top street dishes

25 HealtH+Wellness Soak up the Zen-like ambience and orientalinspired treatments at a new japanese spa

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26 sHoPs+serviCes A royal charity opens its new flagship store while we round up the best tailors in town

Features

28 nigHtlife Classic cocktails, striking design and park views help Mixo make its mark

05 l Treasure hunTers a buyers guide to the best places to find

29 MaPs

local art and antiques in Bangkok.

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Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin

10 l heriTage Trail take a break from the island's beaches and discover the cultural delights of Phuket town.

also inside

escapes

14 Managing Editor, Special Projects Nick Measures Editor Top Koaysomboon General Manager James Fuss Managing Editor GrĂŠgoire Glachant Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapong

4 Hot dates 16 Hot stuff

12

island neWs

29 navigate

14

Mountain neWs

34 30 tHings We Love

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Senior Sales Associate Napasnun Sawanrachai Marketing Manager Arunee Wilson Marketing Executive Natta Yantasri Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant On the Cover DECH Gallery Cover by Watsamon Tri-yasakda

MorrIS VISITor PUBlICaTIoNS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NaTIoNal SalES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.

Com

MVP | CarTograPhy aNd CIrCUlaTIoN General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

MorrIS CoMUNICaTIoNS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris Iii President William S. Morris Iv

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/WhereThailand

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

MVP | CrEaTIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TEChNology & MaNUfaCTUrINg Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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hot dates THAILAND

July 5-16 oxygen

Internationally-renowned contemporary theater group, B-Floor premieres their latest stage play Oxygen, before they take it to the UndergroundZero Festival in New York. The performance explores the idea that people have as much right to freedom and equality as the air they breathe every day. B400-500. At pridi Banomyong institute, Soi thonglor, Sukhumvit 55, 089-167-4039. www.bfloortheatre.com

July 5-8 pAntomime in BAngkok Bangkok’s annual mime show returns for another year under the tagline “Silence is Fun.” You can expect performances from Japanese troupes like Yamamoto Koyo, Kanikama, Sivouplait and Imagawa alongside Thailand’s leading mime trio Babymime. 8:30pm with extra shows on Sat-Sun, 2pm.

Tickets are B800-1,200. At muang thai life insurance Auditorium, Ratchadapisek Rd., 02-262-3456. mRt Sutthisan.

July 5

DJ hype & mC iC3 Alongside their normal club nights, the iconic Bed Supperclub is bringing some of Britain’s finest purveyors of drum n’ bass to Bangkok, in the form of DJ Hype & IC3. Hype, in particular, is one of the most prolific DJs at the famous Playaz and Fabric clubs in London and has been on the circuit for more than 20 years. B800 with two drinks. At Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. BtS nana. www.bedsupperclub.com

July 25

Requiem foR the motheR of SongS Soprano Nancy Yuen, mezzo-soprano Grace Echauri, the Orpheus Choir, Siam Sinfonietta Orchestra and the Siam Philharmonic Orchestra perform Thai opera composer Somtow Sucharitkul’s Requiem as a memorial to the late HRH Princess Galayani Vadhana. Entry is by donation with proceeds going to various charities.

For tickets and reservations, contact intendant@ bangkokopera.com. At thailand Cultural Center, Ratchadapisek Rd. mRt thailand Cultural Center.

July 31

Ryo goto plAyS tChAikovSki Young American-Japanese solo violinist Ryu Goto, who has played with the likes of the London Philharmonic, the Washington National Symphony and European Union Youth orchestras, joins the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra to perform Tchaikovsky’s violin concerto in D major and Symphony No. 5 in E minor. Tickets B500-2,500 at Thaiticketmajor.com. 8pm. At thailand Cultural Center, Ratchadapisek Rd., 02-262-3456. mRt thailand Cultural Center.

Through July 31

ShoRt film feStivAl The Thai Film Foundation together with the Thai Film Archive are hosting the 16th edition of the annual Short Film Festival. This year will feature a showcase of over 500 movies ranging from documentaries, comedies and dramas to experimental pieces. Through July 31 (except Mondays and July 10-15) from 5:30-8:30pm on weekdays and 11am-8:30pm on weekends. Free admission. At BACC, Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630. www.bacc.co.th. for more information, call 081697-5976 or www.thaifilm.com

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A Buyers Market Our guide to the best places to shop for art and antiques in Bangkok.

By Top Koaysomboon and Nick Measures

DECH GallEry

royals and merchants, are antiques Bangkok has a deserved reputation you can only find in Thailand. These as a shopper’s paradise thanks to ceramics were painted with colors its gleaming malls and bustling and patterns only Siamese people markets, but it is also fast becoming would find beautiful.” a favorite destination for collectors looking to buy authentic and original Buying arts and antiques in regional art and antiques. What’s Thailand also offers the added more, with the global trend for arts lure of more affordable prices. and antiques at an all time high, Pichaya Piyassapan, manager at the city’s boutiques, bazaars and Tang Contemporary Art gallery galleries offer a potential treasure explains that, “Arts and antiques in trove of Thailand are unique art considerably “Arts and antiques works and more in thailand are exquisitely affordable considerably more crafted, affordable than in other than in other antiques. countries in the region” countries in the region, “Visitors want like Hong Kong and what they cannot find Singapore. And we have a lot more elsewhere, and Thailand offers an variety, too.” opportunity for that because of its strong tradition of unique art forms So whether you’re seeking an and styles,” explains Tara Sae-Be, antique Rama V period sideboard chairman of the Association for or a cutting-edge oil painting by an the Propagation and Promotion of up-and-coming artist we take you Objets d’Art and owner of Hong on a tour of Bangkok’s top art and Antiques. “For instance, bencharong antique retailers and malls. Happy porcelain, which was produced in hunting!

China on special order by Siamese

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Numthong SaeTung, Director of Numthong Gallery, who’s been dealing in art since 1979, gives us some insider tips.

Why is it good to buy art in thailand?

With less competition (compared to China), artists in Thailand have more opportunities to take time to develop their work. That contributes to each artist’s strong character and style.

How do we know who to buy?

Let your first impressions do the work. Some art pieces are beautiful but you don’t feel it. On the other hand, you might feel touched with a very simple painting. It’s very subjective. Don’t buy because the artist is famous. Spend the money on something you prefer.

How much will i pay?

It depends on several factors: the artist, their experience, their style.

Paintings are not always more expensive than prints. Art works from new grads these days start from around B30,000-50,000. Normally, the price of a piece in Thailand won’t change much during the first three years after the debut of that artist.

RiveRside Auction House Not only home to top art and antique stores, River City also runs the Riverside Auction House organization. They host an art and antique auction every first Saturday of the month. Pictures of auctioned items can be viewed on their website, and from the catalogue, which should be ready to pick up a few days before each event. Apart from the monthly sales, there are also two grand annual auctions, featuring more items. Suite 459-460, 4/F, River City Shopping Complex, 02-237-0077, www.riversideauctionhouse.co.th

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feature decH Gallery The son of veteran antique merchant Tara Sae Be, Dechar, has inherited his father’s passion for collecting and antiques. There are now four branches of DeCH Gallery, two located at River City, one at O.P. Place and a standalone store on Captain Bush Lane. You won’t find the usual jumbled Aladdin’s caves piled with antiques, instead DeCH stores are decked out in modern contemporary style, with monochrome hues to showcase the workmanship and beauty of large-scale oriental sculptures from countries like China, Myanmar and Thailand.

AnTique STOReS

4/F, River city, trok Rongnamkaeng, Yotha Rd. | 2/F, o.P. Place, charoenkrung soi 38, charoenkrung Rd. 02-237-0077/8. open 10am-10pm.

Amantee Art Garden

Hong Antiques

Hidden away in a leafy suburb of Bangkok in a delightful setting are the six traditional Thai pavilions of Amantee Art Garden. The first floor of these pavilions are home to an impressive collection of furniture, paintings, antiques, and decorative items from across the Orient, ranging from Tibet to Myanmar.

After you have finished shopping, you can also relax at Le Café on the second floor overlooking the garden and enjoy the French cuisine of chef Jeremie Sebag and the Mariage Frères tea.

With more than 60 years experience in the antique trade, Hong Antiques is already well-established as one of the best places in town to find precious pieces.

Furthermore, owner Tara Sae-Be happens to be the chairman of the Association for the Propagation and Promotion of Objets d’Art, Thailand’s leading organization about arts and antiques. it means you can be confident that the items available in his packed store have been selected by one of Thailand’s very few experts in Chinese porcelain. His daughter, Poon, has just branched out with her own boutique, the Phoenix Gallery, set in a brighter and more contemporary space.

DECH GallEry

BEnCHaronG aT HonG anTiquEs

131/3 soi chaeng Wattana 13, chaeng Wattana Rd., Laksi, 02-982-8694/5. open daily 8am-8pm. www.amantee.com

Hong Antiques, suites 416-420; Phoenix, suites 442-443, 4/F, River city, 02-6396857, trok Rongnamkaeng, Yotha Rd., 02 237 0077/8. open 10am-10pm.

Himapan

Tara aT His sTorE, HonG anTiquEs

While not specifically focused on Thai artifacts, Himapan is certainly worth a visit if you have a passion for art and antiques from China. The bright three-story gallery is run by a French Sino-Lao couple who used to live and work in China and has a particular focus on items sourced from the country’s remoter provinces, such as inner Mongolia, Dongbei, Gansu, qinghai, and Shanxi.

35/14 sukhumvit soi 31, 02-662-0697. open Mon-sat 10am-6:30pm. www. himapangallery.com

BurmEsE anTiquE aT DECH GallEry

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amanTEE arT GarDEn

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feature Macassar

ART GALLeRieS

v64

Set in a quaint 60s style house, with a small garden out front, this is a favorite with local expats looking to decorate their Bangkok homes. The friendly staff are always on hand to wave you round the two floors of the house and the separate room out front which are filled with an array of decorative items and furniture pieces from Chinese medicine cabinets and old temple doors to antique chairs.

numthong Gallery

More than 60 artists from the artsy section 7 at Chatuchak Weekend Market decided to team up to transform three acres of one of Bangkok’s northern suburbs into a large art studio called V64. This relatively new venue which only opened last year offers a 30-studio space where you can watch the artists at work; an exhibition space for Thai and international artists; art courses led by V64’s artists; and V64 Art Souvenir, which stocks t-shirts, sculptures and other trinkets. And don’t worry about being stuck in the middle of nowhere as there is also the V64 Restaurant Café & Bar.

37 sukhumvit soi 16, sukhumvit Rd., 02-258-1787. open Mon-sat 10am6pm, sun 1-6pm.

numTHonG GallEry

Run by numthong Saetung, widely regarded as Thailand’s first, and largest, art dealer, with more than 30 years in the business, this gallery has recently moved to a new larger space in the wealthy residential neighborhood of Ari. Focused on supporting the contemporary art scene, they host regularly changing exhibitions from established and emerging artists all year round. The current exhibition, running until July 14, is entitled insane and tackles modern media through colorful and sarcastic paintings by two local artists Krit Chantranet and Verapong Sritrakulkitjakarn. soi Ari 5 (north side), Phahonyothin soi 5, Phayathai, 081-918-5067. open Mon-sat 11am-6pm. www. gallerynumthong.com

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WHAt is An Antique?

Poon Sae-Be, owner of Phoenix Gallery (4/F, River City Shopping Complex), explains that only items that are older than a hundred years old are considered real “antiques,” and therefore carry a much heftier price tag compared to “collectibles” (aka possible antiques), which are less than a hundred years old.

143/19 chaengwattana soi 1 Yak 6 or vibhavadi Rangsit soi 64, Bangkhen. open daily 10am-6pm (bar until 10pm). www.facebook. com/v64art

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feature River city shopping complex

WHY Auction?

Apart from Hong Antiques and DeCH Gallery, the third and fourth floors of the River City offer a whole host of antiques and galleries showcasing beautiful oriental artifacts. While just browsing the stores is a pleasure in itself our particular favorites include Friday Antique, Ashwood Gallery and The Old Maps and Prints shop (all found on the 4/F).

Pera Suksangworn, Auction Manager at Riverside Auction House, explains that antiques are items that you can’t find elsewhere (some techniques no longer exist, or cannot be produced by today’s craftsmen) and that an auction lets you own these precious pieces at lower prices.

“You’re bidding with collectors, dealers and antique store owners so there’s an opportunity to own a precious piece at lower prices than it’ll be when it’s displayed in a proper store.”

oP PlaCE

MALLS oP Place

somBaT PErmPoon

sombat Permpoon Gallery Founded in 1982, Sombat Permpoon is perhaps the leading gallery when it comes to tracking down the work of the Thai masters. The impressive collection covers more than 10,000 masterpieces by Thai artists, both established and emerging, and includes the works of leading painters like Prayat Pongdam, Vasan Sitthiket, Preecha Thaothong, and Prayom Yoddee.

12 soi sukhumvit 1, sukhumvit Rd., Wattana, 02-254-6040. open daily 9am-8pm. www. sombatpermpoongallery.com

Pichaya Piyassapan, Manager at Tang Contemporary Art, gives us some insider’s tips on where to find great art.

Why is it good to buy art in thailand?

The first obvious advantage is the cheaper and more stable prices, especially when compared to neighboring

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The neo classical building next to the Mandarin Oriental Hotel is a haven for antique lovers in Bangkok.

With wood paneled walls, a vintage elevator and impressively opulent marble clad entrance lobby, the hushed corridors of this charming place are home to boutiques offering the best in oriental arts, antiques, jewelry, souvenirs and tailors. The real highlight is the Ashwood Gallery that occupies the entire third floor and showcases an impressive collection of antiques from around the world.

30/1 soi charoenkrung 38, charoenkrung Rd., 02-266-0186. open daily 10:30am-6:30pm.

cities like Singapore and Hong Kong. Secondly, pieces from emerging Thai artists are still affordable, and so have a better opportunity to appreciate in value—essential if you are buying art as an investment.

Thirdly, there are so many choices of styles available in Thailand.

Where would you recommend?

It depends what you’re looking for. If you love contemporary styles, then our own place,

Tang Contemporary Art, and 100 Tonson Gallery always feature works from new Thai and international art talents. If you want to buy authentic Thai art works by Thai masters then you should check out Sombat Permpoom Gallery and CVN Art, while V64 and Chatuchak Market are where to go to find affordable contemporary pieces by young emerging artists.

trok Rongnamkaeng, Yotha Rd., 02-237-0077. open daily 10am10pm. www.rivercity.co.th

silom Galleria For those seeking a one stop shop for antique, and more specifically, art galleries, this is the place to come. The lower floors of the Silom Jewelry Trade Center are home to a huge range of contemporary oriental arts. Highlighted galleries are Bangkok’s branch of Tang Contemporary Art (basement, 02-630-1114) that features a wide selection of Thai and Chinese arts, the number 1 Gallery (basement, 02-630-3381) that focuses on works from Thai talents and Thavibu Gallery (3/F, 02-2665454), which features different works by Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists.

919/1, next to silom soi 19, silom Rd. open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. www.silomgalleria.net

What’s your tip?

Decide whether you are buying art for pleasure or investment.

If for pleasure, then just buy what you like. But if you want to become a real collector, for an investment or to support new artists, you must carefully study the artist’s backgrounds and trends in the art market.

Contemporary art, which sees progressive development in terms of the artists’ skill and styles, is currently hot.

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Walking History

WUA STUDIO

Essentials How to get there

Take a break from the beach and discover Phuket Town’s cultural charms. Story by Monruedee Jansuttipan, photos by Nut Onaree YAOWARAT ROAD

Phuket, the Pearl of the Andaman, is suitably famous for its beautiful beaches but many visitors are unaware that the island’s capital, Phuket Town, is home to cultural gems that are just as easy to fall in love with. In the heart of the bustling and picturesque town center, the Baba Nonya community that lives there combine Chinese heritage, colonial influence and indigenous traditions. So put on your walking shoes and get ready for fiery Southern Thai cuisine, Hokkien delicacies, Sino-Portuguese architecture, and stimulating galleries.

The historic town center’s most beautiful streets are all within walking distance of each other: Dibuk, Thalang, Phang Nga, Yaowarat. To make sure you hit all the highlights, get a hold of the excellent Phuket Town Treasure Map, either at the 1 Tourist Information Center on Thalang Rd. or at the Tai Hua Museum (see below). Nearly every shophouse in the area is worth its salt but the 2 On On Hotel and 3 Promthep Clock Tower are the two main sites. Another must-see is 4 Soi Rommanee connecting Thalang Rd. and Dibuk Rd., a former red light district with colorful shophouses. There’s a little flea market there every Saturday night (get there before 10pm).

A Brief History Phuket Island has long been a port of call for foreign trading vessels. From the 16th century on, the island was mined for its

tin. Phuket’s shophouses and villas, dating from the 1860s, bear close resemblance to those of British colonial Penang, and there’s a definite convergence of Eastern and Western styles. The best way to start your journey through time is at 5 Phuket Thai Hua Museum (Krabi Rd., open Tue–Sun 11am-7pm. 076-211224, www.thaihuamuseum.com) which transforms the oldest school building in Phuket (dating back to the 1930s) into a two-story exhibition detailing the island’s Chinese ancestry, Phuket Town’s growth to prosperity and the school itself.

Cafe Culture

If you need a caffeine boost after walking around under the hot sun, then sip some traditional coffee among the locals at 6 Kopi de Phuket (61 Phuket Rd., 076-212-225, open daily 10am-9pm www.kopidephuket.com) and try their old-meets-new cuisine. The place has a

Bangkok Airways (wwww.bangkokair. com) round trip B6,680, Thai Airways (www.thaiairways.com) B5,760, Air Asia (www.airasia.com) B4,560 and Nok Air (www.nokair.com) B4,640.

WHERE TO STAY Phuket 346 5 Soi Rommanee, Talang Road www. phuket346.com

Casa Blanca 26 Phuket Road, Talat Yai, www. casablancaphuket.com

Chinese tavern-feel on the ground floor and resembles a Chinese tea house on the second. They also have a café at the On On Hotel, the oldest hotel in town. For something more Western, join the queue of expats at 7 Gallery Cafe (106 Rasada Rd., 076-211-775, open daily 8am-6pm) www.gallerycafe-phuket.com) where they serve everything from full English breakfasts to dinner options like pasta. 8 Mac-chiato House (48 Thalang Rd., 076215-701, open daily 9am-9pm) serves homemade coffee and cakes. It’s set in a shophouse some 20-30 meters deep, with a garden at the back, that’s particularly typical of Phuket Town. Also look up the longstanding 9 China Inn (20 Thaland Rd.) and !0 Dibuk Restaurant (69 Dibuk Rd.), too; both are lovely architectural specimens. july 2012 I W HERE THA ILA N D 9

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After enjoying all this old stone, take your art appreciation to another level at Phuket Town’s countless galleries, many of which are tucked away in century-old buildings.

First stop at !1 Art Room (29 Yaowarat Rd. 087-273-2413), a gallery-plus-school which sells contemporary and traditional art by students at affordable prices.

For a little more ambiance, head to !2 Phuket 346 (15 Soi Romanee, Taland Rd., 076-258-108). This 100-year-old two-story building is not only a gallery, but a funky guesthouse with cafe and bar, where you can relax among the playful contemporary works. Things are also pretty fun over at !3 Wua Studio (95 Phang Nga Rd., 076-258-208), which was founded by Mr. Zen, an advertising executive who quit his job to pursue his passion for minimalist art pieces. For something more traditional, try !4 Sirasil (121 Phang Nha Rd., 076-224532), !5 iMon Art Gallery (29/2 Phang Nga Rd., 086-961-8968) or !6 Pab Khien Thai Art Gallery (3 Tabkrasattree Rd., 089-908-6769).

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!7 Suay Restaurant (50/2 Takuapa Rd., 087-888-6990 open Tue-Sun 5pm-10pm www.suayrestaurant.com) serves up creative Thai fare at low prices courtesy of Chef Tammasak Chootong, formerly a chef at Banyan Tree Hotels. Try the guay tiew lod salmon khao soy (steamed salmon in rice noodles served with yellow curry, B159) and tum BBQ ma kue yao (grilled long eggplant salad with crab meat, B89).

Dessert is a must, too, namely the mango sticky rice spring roll and black sesame ice-cream for just B99. Southern cuisine meets Sino-Portuguese décor at !8 Raya (48 Dibuk Rd., 076-218-155, open daily 10am-11pm). The century-old building boasts original mosaic tiled floor and walls adorned with 50s tea and coffee postergirls and pictures of Thai monarchs.

The line-up of traditional Phuket dishes include moo hong (steamed pork with pepper and garlic, B250), gaeng nue poo bai cha ploo (crab meat with curry and coconut milk, B400-600) and pad sataw kapi goong (stir fried sataw with shrimps, B250-350). For a lighter meal, consider !9 Kopitiam (18 Thalang Rd., 083-606-776, open Mon-Sat 11am-10pm) where they serve pocket-friendly traditional dishes like mee Hokkien (Phuket-style noodles) and bak kut teh (pork bone herbal soup).

If street food is more your thing, you’ve come to the right place. Start with the famous @0 Mee Ton Poh (214/7 Phuket Rd., 076-216-293, open daily 10am-6pm), a popular haunt for those who can’t get enough of signature dishes like pad mee Hokkien (B35-40). Next head to Yaowarat Rd. and search Soi Sun Uthit for the hard-to-spot @1 Ji Peng stall where you can get delicious mee hun (fried noodle served with pork bone soup) for B30. Right next door is a stall that serves Phuket’s famous dessert, o-aew (herbal jelly in red syrup).

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After Dark

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SANAEhA

Despite, or perhaps because of, the rich heritage of the area, parts of old Yaowarat and Dibuk Roads are real hotspots come nightfall. Savvy young entrepreneurs have revamped the old shophouses and turned them into chill bars where you can enjoy live music among the local cool set. @2 Sanaeha (83-85 Yaowarat Rd., 076-218-515) looks romantic in the early evening with its big chandelier, but late on it gets packed with young partygoers. It’s a similar case at @3 Ploenchit (22-24 Dibuk Rd., 081-536-1377), where you definitely need to make a reservation on Fri and Sat nights. If you’re hungry after dancing well into the night, head to @4 Ko Benz (163 Krabi Rd., 084-060-7799) for the most renowned tom luerd moo (pig’s blood in clear soup) in town. They’re open from 7pm-3pm, so there’s no need to go to bed hungry.

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ESCAPES PATTAYA | New Opening

Island News Grand openings, hot promotions and special events at Thailand’s top beach destinations

Horizon aT HilTon PaTTaya

Endless Horizons One of Pattaya’s most luxurious hotels, the Hilton Pattaya has just unveiled its new rooftop wine-and-dine space named Horizon. With a contemporary design by award-winning Thai firm DWP, the 1,390-sq-meter lounge sits atop the hotel’s 34th floor. Among the eyecatching features are an infinity bar that hangs out over the edge of the hotel, the circular ‘hole in the oxzone layer’ that lets you enjoy a glimpse of the stars from the comfort of the air con and three private dining rooms with dramatic views over Pattaya Bay. 333/101 Pattaya Beach Rd., Pattaya, Chonburi, 038-253-000, pattaya.hilton.com

FullMoon Brew work

Hua Hin by Air If you don’t want to put up with the three hour-drive to Hua Hin, why not let the plane take the strain and arrive in style? Local aviation operator Thai Regional Airlines (090-779-2779, 090779-3779, 02-134-7152, www. thairegionalairlines.com), who run flights from Bangkok to Korat and Buriram, has now launched a Bangkok-Hua Hin route. Operating on Mon, Wed, Fri and Sun, there are two flights per day from Suvarnabhumi Airport (9:50am and 1:30pm) which take about 40 minutes. The website’s offering a special start-up price of B1,990 for a one-way ticket, while there’s a B990 promotional price for the first person to book a seat on each flight.

Of course, we should point out that with getting to the airport and check-in time, you might be looking at a two-hour trip anyway.

Tongsai Bay

PHUKET | New Opening

SAMUI | Hotel Deal

Rare Brews The people behind the very popular, award-winning export brew Phuket Beer have just opened their own outlet in Phuket, Fullmoon Brew Work. Decked out in New York loft-style (high ceiling, exposed brick walls, black metal details), it’s a chilled-out affair with low tables and bean bags. They do it properly, too, with a couple of their signature microbrews, Phuket Lager and Oriental Wheat, on tap along with cocktails and some international food. Jungceylon Shopping Center, Rat Uthit Rd., Patong, 076-366-753, www.facebook.com/ fullmoonbrewwork

Happy Birthday Deal Eco-friendly resort The Tongsai Bay on Koh Samui is celebrating its 25th anniversary and letting you join the celebrations with a three-day-two-night package. Stay in a seafront cottage with breakfast, a bottle of Chandon Rose, a four-course dinner for two, roundtrip airport transfer and free WiFi internet, all for B25,000. Valid through July 15 and September 1-December 20. Tongsai Bay, Koh Samui, Suratthani, 02-381-8774/6, reservation@tongsaibay.co.th, www. tongsaibay.co.th

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ESCAPES Hat Yai | Hotel Deal All New A major facelift has breathed new life into the Centara Hat Yai, formerly the Novotel Hat Yai. As a result, they are currently offering special rates for internet bookings, starting from B1,440 for a superior room on Sun-Thu and B1,800 on Fri-Sat nights, while a one-bedroom apartment is B4,280 and B5,350, respectively. Valid through October 31. Hat Yai, Songkhla, www.centarahotelsresorts.com

TRAVEL TIDBIT Koh Samui Private Museum

Hidden away in a small soi on the banks of Pru Chaweng Lake is Samui’s only private museum which houses a vast collection of prehistoric artifacts.

The story goes that ML Arachawa Worawan, a veteran artist who designed one of Thailand’s very first boutique hotels, Muang Kulaypan, turned his villacome-restaurant into a

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private museum exhibiting a collection of Ban Chiang prehistoric Thai ceramics and potteries. Historical artifacts include stones knives, axes, terracotta pots and jewelry that ranges in date from 3,000BC to 1,900AD. It’s currently free but open by appointment only. Contact 088-2493901 or privatemuseum@ hotmail.com

Casa de la Flora

PHANG NGA | Hotel Deal Stylish Beach Casa de la Flora, an award-winning boutique beachfront resort with cutting-edge design courtesy of one of Thailand’s leading architect firms VasLAB Studio, is rolling out a special introductory promotion, which allows you to stay at a pool villa from B12,000 VIETNAM a night with breakfast and free minibar.

And that deal gets even better during the MYANMAR rainy season when you can enjoy two Chiang Mai of one until October nights for the price 31. The hotel is listed with Design Hotels, a group that represents aesthetically bold hotels worldwide.

Khaolak Beach, Chaiyaphum Phang Nga, 076-428-999, 02-6798025, www.casadelaflora.com

Chiang Mai

THAILAND

Sa Kaeo

Bangkok Bangkok

Pattaya

Rayong

Samui

GULF OF SIAM

Samui

Phang Nga Phang Nga Phuket Hat Yai

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ESCAPES UBON RATCHATHANI | News Waxing Faith The end of this month will see the start of the 7th International Wax Sculpture and Thai Candle Wax Carving Festival (aka Ubon Wax Sculpture 2012) held at Ubon Ratchathani town center. This long- running festival, which takes place July 20-August 5, aims to conserve the age-old art of candle carving as a form of Buddhist devotion. According to traditional beliefs, Buddhist devotees present these beautifully-carved candles to temples during the period of Lent, when monks are required to remain at one temple for three months and need additional light for their studies. It is believed that such acts of good karma help to brighten your current and future life. The festival features not only exhibitions of wax carvings but a parade of floats and cars finely decorated by wax and candles on August 3. More information at TAT Ubon Ratchathani, 045-243-770. www.tatubon.org

CoURTeSy of ToURISM AUThoRITy of ThAILAnd UBon RATChAThAnI offICe

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Upcountry news New hotels, special events and great promos at Thailand’s rural retreats.

ToP KoAySoMBoon

wax parade

krajiew flowers

CHAIYAPHUM | News Pink Blossoms When the rains start to hit the Isaan plateau in the upper northeast of Thailand, flower lovers start to pack their bags to see the annual display of the krajiew flowers in full bloom at Thepsathit and Sai Thong Sai Thong national parks from Jul until Aug. Also known as the Siamese tulip, dok krajiew flowers only blossom during June to August of each year. What you should know before heading out: the full bloom doesn’t take place at the same time at both parks. It starts at Thepsathit in June, before moving across to Sai Thong from July until August. More information at TAT Nakhon Ratchasima 044-213-030, 044-213-666.

CHIANG MAI | Airline Deal Chiang Mai Jao After tempting us with cheap flights to Samui last month, Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com) is now lowering its ticket prices to Chiang Mai. A roundtrip starts from B3,150 for travel from now until Jul 30. But if you can hold off a little longer, a roundtrip ticket for travel between August 1 and September 30 starts from only B2,590—not much different from the low-cost alternatives.

Prices are exclusive of airport tax (B200) and subject to limited seats and flight times.

NEW ROOM Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit Towering above the streets in the middle of the bustling business and entertainment district of Nana, this art-deco building is home to one of Bangkok’s newest five-star hotels.

All 345 guestrooms and suites are elegantly decked out with classy warm tones, featuring beige textiles, dark woods, marbles and mirrors. Among the three dining venues, L’Appart, a French restaurant, is the real highlight offering understated Parisian style alongside city views (see dining page 24). Meanwhile, Le Spa pampers your face and body by utilizing L’Occitane products in its broad selection of treatments. Room rates are from B4,613. 189 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Soi 13 and 15), Wattana, Bangkok, 02126-9999. www.sofitel.com

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ESCAPES

Untitled

CHIANG MAI | News Contemporary Lanna Bangkok’s famous contemporary art space H Gallery has just opened a Chiang Mai branch close to the four Seasons Resort. It celebrates the opening with an exhibition of expressionist paintings called Untitled

by Thai artist Mit Jai Inn, who looks to communicate his political views through the use of forms and colors. The gallery is open by appointment Sunday-Tuesday. Mae Rim, Chiang Mai, 085-021-5508. www. hgallerybkk.com

Chiang Rai | News Portraits of Tribes Until the end of this month, Le Meridien Chiang Rai Resort showcases a photography exhibition Peoples of the Mekong by two veteran photographers Kees Sprengers from The netherlands and Blue Johnson from the USA, who have spent years taking photos of tribal people in northern Laos and Thailand. The exhibition is part of the celebrations for the Mekong Tourism forum 2012, which happened in June. 221/2 Moo 20 Kwaewai Rd, Chiang Rai, 053-603-333. www.lemeridien.com

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NEW TRAvEL APP THIS MONTH TripAdvisor Offline Guides The TripAdvisor Offline City Guides are now a lot more useful than when first launched late last year. Currently covering 52 major cities around the globe (including New York, Sydney, Tokyo and, yes, Bangkok), the guides grant you access to the sort of travel information you need for every trip: from top restaurants and hotels to city maps. The best thing is it’s all pre-loaded – you don’t even need an internet connection to use the app.

Oh yeah, and it’s free. Available for iPhone, iPod Touch and Android phones. More information at www.tripadvisor. com/appsicityguides

peoples of the Mekong

WORLDWIDE | Competition Oakwood Asia has launched the Most Memorable Travel photography contest, encouraging travelers to submit their best travel snaps and win prizes. The grand prize is a trip for two, featuring air tickets and accommodation to any oakwood properties in Asia, together with a nikon J1 digital camera, while three runnnersup will receive a nikon Coolpix P7100 camera. feel free to submit up to two travel pictures to www.oakwoodasia.com/ memorable/competition.php through September 15, after which 50 shortlisted images will be posted on its microsite for public votes. All winners will be announced on december 15.

VIETNAM MYANMAR

LAOS

Chiang Rai Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai

Chaiyaphum Ubon Ratchathani

THAILAND

Bangkok Bangkok Rayong

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hot stuff

Excess Baggage

Navigate the halls of Suvarnabhumi in style with these stylish, eye-catching beauties.

1 American Tourister Prismo 55cm, B4,250 2 Muji Suitcase L, B5,590 3 Dror for Tumi 29”, B35,900 4 Greyhound, B10,995 5 Louis Vuitton Damier Infiniti Keepall 45”, B93,500 6 Playhound, B4,390 7 Marc by Marc Jacobs, B4,500 1 8 Muji 009, B2,590

American Tourister. Try 4/F, Central Chidlom, 02-793-7777 Louis Vuitton. B-G/F, Gaysorn, 02-664-7272 Marc Jacobs. Try 1/F, Siam Discovery Center, 02-658-0112 Greyhound. 3/F, Siam Center, 02-251-4917 Playhound. 3/F, Siam Center, 02-252-3861 Muji. Try 3/F, Central Chidlom, 02-793-7777 Tumi. Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1221

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where

the guide art

Discovery no.5

The fifth instalment of Thailand’s forgotten photography masters series focuses on Pornsak Sakdaenprai, whose work captured the golden age of luk thung (country) music in Thailand in the mid to late 1960s, a time when the rural population began to open up to modernization and Western influences and rushed to emulate their musical idols. July 7-August 27. Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 7 Soi Pan, Silom Rd., 02-234-6700. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open Tue-Sun 11am-7pm. www.kathmandubkk.com XI11

arts + CULtUrE .................................... 18-19 dining ...................................................... 20-24 hEaLth + wELLnEss .................................25

shops + sErviCEs ................................26-27 nightLifE........................................................28

navigatE........................................................29 maps...........................................................29-33

Note that the reference at the end of the listings (W S24, Z D3 etc) apply to the coordinates on the individual maps on pages 29-33.

Listings without coordinates indicate locations not within the map. juLY 2012 I W HERE tH a ila n d 17

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Art+Culture BANGKOK

Art Exhibition HigHligHts

OBSCENE — Internationally acclaimed Thai artist Manit Sriwanichpoom showcases two new photographic series: Holy Machismo features surreal black and white images of Thai fertility symbols; while, the Baroque nudes of Obscene confronts the garish vulgarity of modern Thai politics. Through Jul 30. H Gallery, 201 Sathorn Soi 12. 081-3104428. Open daily 9am-5pm. XH11

POLITICS Of ME — 17 young emerging artists offer their own very personal views on modern living, reflecting on how a new generation attempts to deal with the political, cultural and social issues thrown up by today’s fast-changing society. Through Jul 29. BACC, 939, Rama I Rd., Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. YM16

MYTHS — This exhibition examines the status of women in Southeast Asia today through the works of five female artists from Thailand, Vietnam and Myanmar. The works reflect their similar cultural traditions but very different socio-economic realities. Through Jul 14.

Thavibu Gallery, Suite 308, The Silom Galleria Building, 3rd Fl., 919/1 Silom Rd. 02-266-5454.

Open Mon-Sat 11am-7pm. XI10

Art GALLEriES 100 TONSON GALLERY — With a prime location and well-designed space, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-6841527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20 BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTER (BACC) — The city’s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art-related shops in its impressive 11-story structure. 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th YM16 GOSSIP GALLERY — This multifaceted space showcases contemporary pieces from both local and international artists. 3/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-237-5568. BTS Surasak. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. gossipgallerybkk72.com XI10 KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY — This four-floor gallery, which includes a special bookstore, is focused on promoting the work of up-andcoming local photographers. 87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd., 02-234-6700. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open TueSun 11am-7pm. www.kathmandu-bkk.com XI11 NATIONAL GALLERY — Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd, 02-2812224, 02-282-2639- 40. Open Wed-Sun 9am4pm. www.national-gallery.go.th WQ27

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes.

101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-281-5360/1.

Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. www.queengallery. org WS27 SILOM GALLERIA — This large mall hosts a range of modern Asian art under one roof. Highlight galleries include: Tang Contemporary Art, which covers modern Chinese art and Thavibu Gallery which features works by Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists. 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-2665454. BTS Surasak. The mall is open daily 10am-8pm, though some galleries have different opening times. XI10 SERINDIA GALLERY — Run by a publishing company, this gallery focuses on the art and culture of Asia. OP Garden, Unit 3101-3201, 4-6 Soi Charoen Krung 36, 02-238-6410. Open TueSun 11am-8pm. www.serindiagallery.com XJ10 SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — More of a shop than a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai artworks. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040. Open daily 9am8pm. www.sombatpermpoongallery.com XL21 THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC)— Home to a big art library, and host to temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-9pm. www.tcdc. or.th ZC4

WHITESPACE GALLERY — Founded by an American architect and Thai artist Maitree Siriboon, the narrow space at this design studio shows the works of emerging artists. 2/F, Lido Bldg, 260 Siam Square Soi 3, 02-252-2900. BTS Siam. Open Tue-Fri 1pm-7pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am8pm. www.whitesp-cegallery.com YM16

MUSEUMS JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk, Jim Thompson, is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. B100. www.jimthompsonhouse.com YM15 MUSEUM SIAM — The old Ministry of Commerce is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-2252777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. B300. www. museumsiam.com WQ23 NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous property houses some of the most extraordinary architecture, art and antiques in the country. Na Phrathat Rd., 02215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. B50. www. nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th WQ27

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Art+Culture AttrActionS

687-2000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm.

B900 for adults, B700 for children. YM17

GRAND PALACE — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture. Here you’ll also find Wat Phra Kaeo.

Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm.

Free tours in English available at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm. B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25

WAT ARUN (TEMPLE Of DAWN) — One of the city’s best known landmarks is home to the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmer-style tower), decorated by millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means “morning” and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arun Amarin Rd. Wat Arun Pier. WP22

RATTANAKOSIN ExHIBITION HALL — Also known as Nitas Rattanakosin, this exhibition center traces the history of Bangkok from the late 18th century to the present day. Don’t miss the view from the rooftop. Ratchadamnoen Rd., 02-621-004. Open Tue-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. B100. WS26

WAT TRAIMIT WITTAYARAM — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm.

ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM — Eight of the more than 50 boats that make up the royal barge processions are displayed here. The must-see is the Suphannahong, or Golden Swan, with its huge, golden figurehead prow. Pinklao Bridge Pier, Thonburi, 02-424-0004. Open daily 9am-5pm.B30. WP27 SIAM OCEAN WORLD — Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species.

Highlights include the underwater tunnel, penguin enclosure and the glass bottom boat tour. Basement, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.,02-

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WAT PHRA KAEO (TEMPLE Of THE EMERALD BUDDHA) — Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace, this important religious site is home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. Also, don’t miss the exquisite mural wall paintings. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am3:30pm. B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25 VIMANMEK PALACE — With 12 separate museums in the compound, you could easily spend the day here. The site houses the royal museums of photography, clocks, textiles and silk, but the gorgeous teak buildings are the real draw. Strict dresscode (see website for details).

Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300/-9. Open daily 9:30am-4pm. B100. www.vimanmek.com

New>

Titanic: the Artifact Exhibition

To commemorate the 100th anniversary of the sinking of the legendary cruise liner, which set sail on its maiden (and final) voyage in 1912, Titanic: The Artifact Exhibition honors and remembers the fated journey of “The Ship of Dreams.” The exhibition has been traveling the world, from the USA to Singapore, and now arrives in Thailand, where it will showcase some 300 original artifacts retrieved from the wreck site of Titanic, alongside a range of multimedia installations.

Through Sep 2. Tickets are B500 for adults and B300 for students. At CentralWorld LIVE, 8/F, CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd. BTS Chidlom. www. bectero.com/titanic

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dining BANGKOK

Thai Lao Yeh

Despite its location in the purpose-built colonial-style boutique Cabochon Hotel & Residence, this restaurant is resolutely local, focusing on dishes based on those found at roadside stalls. The décor is a blend of Thai mixed with a touch of 1920s Shanghai.

That means wooden walls taken from an original Thai house combined with tiled floors, marble top tables, lots of dark wood and plenty of antique bric a brac. The menu is extensive and features classic and authentic Northern Thai, Northeastern Thai and Laotian dishes and the food stays true to its traditional flavors, which means no fusion, no added sugar, and no holding back on the heat. Recommended dishes include chicken wings with lemongrass, larb Laos (minced-meat salad) and the Thai Lao Yeh fried rice, while they also offer deep fried frog and spicy soup with ant’s eggs for more daring eaters. 14/29, Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-259-28713. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 11am-2pm. ZC5

DOWNTOWN Boqueria — French/Italian. $$$$ This venue focuses on classic dishes with a Mediterranean leaning. G/F, CRC Tower, All Season Place, 87/2 Witthayu Rd., 02-685-3930/1. BTS Phloen Chit.

Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. YN21 CeladoN — Thai. $$$$ Surrounded by lotus ponds, Celadon’s Thai pavilion contains elegant candlelit interiors that help accentuate the refined set menus, such as the seven-course Bai Horapa set.

13/3 South Sathorn Rd., 02-344-8888. Open daily noon-3pm, 6:30-11pm. www.sukhothai.com.

PiCk d’SeNS — French. $$$$ The Frenchimported eatery by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers has all the oomph one might expect. The dimly-lit dining room is ultra-chic, and the food is bold and exciting. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000 ext. 2499. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:3010pm. XF10

Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$

driNkiNg Tea, eaTiNg riCe — Japanese. $$$$ Stylishly simple in design, this restaurant allows the food to take center stage. Choose from top-quality sushi, sashimi, teppanyaki and kaiseki options, and wash it down with their extensive sake collection. 3/F, The Conrad Hotel, 87 Witthayu Rd., 02-690-9999. BTS Phloen Chit.

Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm. YN21 diNe iN The dark — International. $$$ Choose between meat, seafood or vegetarian—no other details—and then step into complete darkness where visually-impaired staff serve as your personal guides and waiters. The three-course set menu is B750-B850 with 10% of profits donated to foundations for the visually-impaired. 2/F, The Ascott Sathorn, 02-676-6676. Open daily 7:3011:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi. Xh13

erawaN Tea rooM — Thai. $$$$ With a classy oriental décor, five-star service and a fine tea selection, Erawan Tea Room also impresses with its authentic Thai dishes and monthly-themed menus. 2/F, Erawan Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02254-1234. Open daily 10am-10pm. YN18

Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax. d’seNs

eaT Me — International. $$$$ The décor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic.

The kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng.

Open daily 3pm-1am. Xg11

Area guide downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

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dining giaNNi riSToraNTe — Italian. $$$$ “Gianni’s,” as it’s referred to by most, has earned its following with consistently outstanding food, an elegant atmosphere and smooth service. 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-652-2922. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm. YM20

GiANNi

PiCk gaggaN — Indian. $$$$ After a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and some wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02-652-1700. BTS Chit Lom. 6pmmidnight. Yo19

PiCk iSSaya SiaMeSe CluB — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef Ian Kittichai returns to his home country with this restaurant, set in a delightful wooden mansion and featuring inventive twists on classic Thai recipes. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., Sathorn

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Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

JiM ThoMPSoN Bar & reSTauraNT — Thai. $$$ Located in the former home of Siamese silk expert Jim Thompson, the open-air restaurant by a small lotus pond and its air-con dining room have been serving up authentic Thai food and simple Western dishes for years. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, 02-612-3601. www.jimthompson. com. Open daily 9am-5pm, 7-11pm. YM15 la MoNiTa Taqueria — Mexican. $$ Handsdown the best place for a quesadilla or fish taco.

The décor and service aren’t much, but you won’t care after your third Reposado Margarita.

Mahatun Plaza, 888/26 Phloenchit Rd., 02-6509581. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am10pm. YM21

PiCk NahM — Thai. $$$$ Former holder of a Michelin star, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open daily noon-2pm, 7-11pm. Xg13

PiCk Niu’S — Italian. $$$$ Muted tones, crisp white tablecloths and large windows let the inventive and delicious Italian food take center stage. Niu’s also has an extensive wine list and often hosts top-name jazz acts downstairs. Baan Silom, 661 Silom Rd., 02-266-5333. Open daily 5pm-1am. Xi10

nEW >

Somtam der

Yards from the bustle of Silom Road, this new spot is another venue that looks to bring typical street food into a more elegant setting. The décor belies its basic shophouse shell; with a little mezzanine that lets in plenty of light and a red accent wall, while the central somtam bar and craft-inspired bamboo lamps add to the cozy ambience. As the name suggests, this restaurant focuses mainly on somtam—a spicy Thai papaya salad and other classic Northeastern dishes. Standouts include the somtam sua Sakon Nakhon, which comes with freshwater crab and keratin beans, and the somtam pla tu khao man, which includes mackerel and is served with a side of rice cooked in coconut milk. We’re also excited by their martinis, made by infusing vodka with lemongrass or roselle, they pack quite a punch and remain fairly dry. 5/5 Saladaeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am-10pm. XF11 JUly 2012 I W HERE THA ILA N D 21

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dining reFlexioNS — French. $$$$ Elegant but edgy, with its raw black-and-white photographs of Bangkok, Reflexions is authentic French food without the stuffiness. Chef Thibault Chiumenti cooks with an eye for tradition and bold flavors. 3/F, Plaza Athénée, 61 Witthayu Rd., 02-650-8800. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm. YN21

ShiNTaro — Japanese. $$$ Located in a corner of the high-end hotel, this cozy restaurant draws the glam crowd. The food is equally trendy, with dishes like sushi-pizza and California rolls.

G/F, Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-251-6127. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5-10:30pm. YN18

rueN urai — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house, decorated in a blend of contemporary furniture and rare Thai crafts, it offers a polished menu of solid recipes. Rose Hotel, 188, Surawong Rd., 02266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. XF8

TaliNg PliNg—Thai. $$-$$$ This old favorite sees Bangkokians rub shoulders with tourists to enjoy classic Thai dishes and some lesser known options in a charming old house. 60 Soi Pan, Silom Rd., 02-234-4872. BTS Chong Nonsi.

Open daily 11am-10pm. Xi11

PiCk Sra Bua — Thai. $$$$ The sister of Michelin-starred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen offers up Thai food with a contemporary, almost molecular, twist in a soaring palace dotted with rice fields.

Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. BTS Siam. Open daily noon-11pm.

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PiCk ZuMa — Japanese. $$$$ Their generous salads mix avocado and fresh sushi. The bar is made from a single, monumental slab of stone and the garden is air conditioned. It’s all wonderfully glamorous. G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-636-0002. Open Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm. YN18

LOWer SukhumviT

Wine & dine deals MONRUEDEE JANSUTTIPAN

11 gallery — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34, Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. ZB1 aBove eleveN — Fusion. $-$$ The twist of this rooftop bar and restaurant, apart from a great city view, is a concept that focuses on Nikkei cuisine: a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. 32/F Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-9300. www.aboveeleven.com Za1

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Sra Bua by kiin kiin, where Chef de Cuisine Morten Nielson uses modern gastronomic techniques married with authentic Thai flavors, has just launched a new set menu for dinner (B2,400) featuring quail in coconut milk with chanterelle and crispy skin alongside river prawn salad with coconut and spicy dressing. Lunch is a more reasonable B1,600. Siam Kempinski, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162 9000. www.kempinski.com

kuPPa — International. $$$ Best-known as a lunch venue, Kuppa’s reliable menu of pastas, salads, desserts and great coffee has changed little over the years. Throw in comfy couches and floor-toceiling windows, and you’ve got one chill spot. 39 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-663-0495, 02-663-8806.

Open daily 10am-10:30pm. Zd3 Ma du Zi reSTauraNT By yuyai — Japanese. $$$ With a stint at a Joel Robuchon restaurant in Tokyo, Japanese Chef Yuya Okuda’s food is very recognizably French, only with very light, very subtle exotic touches. Maduzi Hotel, 9/1 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-615-6400. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm. Zd3

w xyZ Bar is reviving its popular all-you-candrink promotion. At B699 per person, you get everything from their signature molecular cocktails and standard varieties to spirits and beers from 9pm-1am every Fri-Sat through Aug 31. 1/F, Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-7000. BTS Nana.

by an oyster importer, this restaurant features 20 types of oysters and a range of perfectly grilled fish dishes cooked with a modern American approach.

Somerset Lake Place, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02663-8863, Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun noon-3pm, 6-10pm. BTS Asok. Zd3

upper SukhumviT BaCCo — Italian. $$$ This relaxed, slightly rustic eatery packs in the diners nightly, thanks to its extensive menu of authentic regional specialties.

35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-662-4538. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-midnight.

ZC6

PiCk Bo.laN — Thai. $$$ Chefs Bo and Dylan offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a charming house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes to reflect the seasons. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962. Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pmmidnight. Zd5 CurrieS aNd More By BaaN kaNiTha — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Choose from the hip wine bar or the beautiful cream-colored house to enjoy dishes that range from traditional favorites to daring fusion offerings. 31 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-259-8530/-5. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 11am-11pm. ZC6 iNduS — Indian. $$$ An ambient spot with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual north Indian favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. Ze5 NaPa oN 26— International. $$$$ Inspired by the long list of primarily Napa Valley wines served here, the kitchen serves full-flavored dishes that stand out for their perfectly cooked meats and seafood. The food is fairly light and down-toearth, the decor is masculine and heavy on the wood. 2/F, Nihonmachi (behind K-Village), Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-2622. Open Tue-Fri 4-11:30pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm.

PiCk iSao — Japanese. $$$-$$$$ Despite the standard izakaya facade, Isao offers something different—Japanese cuisine with distinctly American twists, thanks to the chef’s apprenticeship at the Green Tea sushi bar in Chicago. 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645/6.

Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, SatSun 11am-10pm. ZC4

Café Claire now offers a Diplomat Set Lunch for B650 until August 31. The price covers appetizers, a main course (such as miso-glazed snow fish or braised Wagyu beef cheek), dessert and a choice of TWG tea or ILLY coffee. Oriental Residence Bangkok, Wireless Rd., 02-125-9000 The water library has added an adjoining wine bar that holds some 300 labels (both old and new world) at affordable prices from B900/bottle.

Highly recommended are the Louis Roederer Champagne, the rare Screaming Eagle or the boutique selections from Harlan Estate. The Grass, Thonglor 12, 02-714-9292-3

PiCk SeaFood Bar — Seafood. $$$ Owned

PiCk The loCal — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef and

zumA

roSaBieNg — Thai. $-$$ This two-story wooden house-turned-restaurant is a great place for those seeking an introduction to Thai food, thanks to its broad menu of properly executed dishes. 3 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-253-5868. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Sat 11am-11pm. ZB1

co-owner, Can Markawat keeps the focus on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find recipes.

They’re all served in a beautiful hundred-yearold house. There’re cooking lessons every Wednesday, too. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm Near equal — Thai. $$-$$$ A new location for a long-term favorite in a charming house down a beautifully leafy street. Upstairs the wood floors and antique pieces make for a charming

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dining spot to enjoy well-balanced Thai dishes; then head downstairs to browse the selection of Thai furniture and handicrafts on sale. 22/2 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-258-1565 ZC5

ThONGLOr/ekkAmAi FuZio — Italian. $$$$ Classic Italian recipes mixed with just enough modern touches to suit the locale and clientele. A rooftop location and contemporary décor make for a special experience. 6/F, Mini Showroom, 99/99 Ekkamai Soi 7, 02-711-6999. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. ZB7

PiCk PhukeT TowN — Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional Southern-style dishes like kanom chine namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that has plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches.

Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm. ZC6 4 garCoNS — French. $$$ Cooked by a Thai doctor, this classic French fare is served in a warm and elegant atmosphere. 1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-713-9547. Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm. ZB6

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BoNJour — French. $$$$ Fine French dishes served in a bourgeois villa that boasts velvet lounge chairs and a small tropical garden. 1217/2 Sukhumvit Soi 59, 02-714-2112. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-1am. ZC6 harvey — American, International. $$$$ A very popular spot with the town’s movers and shakers the food encompasses modern interpretations of American, French and Italian cuisine. 129 Thonglor Soi 9, 02-712-9911. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-11pm. ZB6

NeAr equAl

Expert Picks

Chawadee Nualkhair, author of Bangkok’s Top 50 Street Food Stalls, recommends her current street food picks in Bangkok.

Bamee Slow

Entrance to Ekkamai Soi 19, open after 8pm to about 3am.

It’s hands down my favorite bamee kai (egg noodles) place in the city. I’ve eaten it many times, and although the bamee is nice and soft they never overcook the egg so that it’s still runny when you open it. The broth is great, a toxic orange color and incredibly flavorful. I will never get sick of this dish.

Nai Mong hoy Tod

539 Soi Prapachai, open 11am-9.30pm unless there are no oysters in the market.

They make the best “grob grob” hoy tod in the city, crispy underneath with sweet, barely cooked oysters on top.

Somsong Pochana

Soi Wat Sangwach, open Mon-Sat 9.30am4pm.

I come here all the time. Not only do they make great guaythiew Sukhothai (pork with rice noodles), which is hard to find, they also make great kanom jeen sao nam (soft rice noodles with shrimp, pineapple, coconut milk, raw garlic and chilies), which is also hard to find. If you get there early, you might also be able to sample the dessert, usually khao fang, a sort of ricebased green jelly in coconut milk. And yes, this is hard to find as well.

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dining PiCk waTer liBrary — International. $$$$ A restaurant that serves a maximum of ten diners per night, with a 12-course set menu using the very best ingredients that starts at 7.30pm on the dot prepared in front of you by an army of chefs. It’s very sophisticated, very sexy and yes, it’s expensive, but also very memorable. Grass, Thonglor Soi12, 02-714-9292/-3. Open MonSat 6pm-1am. ZB64

PiCk xuaN Mai — Vietnamese. $$$ Probably

Streetwise>

Sukhumvit Soi 38

Thai cuisine with its intriguing (if sometimes bewildering) blends of spices, aromas and flavors is justifiably famous the world over, which is why visitors to Bangkok are so keen to try the real thing for themselves. While there are plenty of good Thai restaurants in the city, if you want the real deal, then you have to hit the streets. Stalls and carts are literally everywhere, but for a simple, central spot that has a good range of dishes, your best bet is to head to Sukhumvit Soi 38 (by BTS Thong Lo) after 7pm.

On this side street you’ll find a host of stalls offering everything from a classic pad Thai to a bowl of bamee moo daeng (egg noodles with roast pork). Don’t miss the mango sticky rice from the stall in a small alley on the right hand side as you enter the soi; or try the cheng sim ii, a Chinese dessert featuring a mix of nuts and longan juice, available at one of the last stalls on the left hand side of the street. Sukhumvit Soi 38, Sukhumvit Rd. BTS Thong Lo. Tue-Sun 7pm-1/2am.

the best Vietnamese restaurant in Bangkok, this is where former beauty queen-then-FBI agent chef Meyung Robson sources the best ingredients, often direct from Vietnam, and cooks them perfectly from traditional recipes.

Try the bahn mo thit (Vietnamese sandwich) and cha ca Hanoi (grilled cat fish). 351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-185-2619. Open TueSun 11am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 11:30ammidnight; Sun 11:30am-10pm. Za6

riverSiDe Mei JiaNg — Chinese. $$$$ This elegant establishment overlooking the Chao Phraya River offers one of the best dim sum experiences in town. The food is authentic Cantonese, while the service is knowledgeable and courteous. The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-861-2888. BTS Saphan Taksin. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm.

SuPaTra riverSide — Thai. $$$$ Situated on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River, the view of Wat Arun and the Grand Palace from the terrace of this Thai house is amazing.

There’s regular cultural performances and a range of classic Thai dishes. Free boat transfer from Maharaj Pier. 266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arunamarin Rd., 02-411-0305. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm. ZP26 The deCk — Thai/International. $$$ Book in advance for one of the best spots, out on the second floor terrace, and enjoy the amazing view of Wat Arun across the river. The wellexecuted menu covers Thai and European dishes. 36-38 Soi Pratu Nokyung, Maharat Rd., 02-221-9158. Open Mon-Thu 7am-10pm, FriSun 7am-11pm. Wq23 le NorMaNdie — French. $$$$ The Mandarin Oriental’s showcase restaurant has set the standard for service and cuisine for years—and the river views aren’t bad either. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-6599000. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm; daily 7-10:30pm. XJ11 veNiCe vaNiChe — Thai. $$$ Sat meters from the Grand Palace, this restaurant offers some great views, a pleasant breezy terrace on the second floor and a large menu of classic Thai dishes. 1/12 Soi Maharaj, Maharaj Rd., 02-2228082. Open daily 11am-midnight. ZP26

khuN ChurN — Thai/Vegetarian. $-$$ This family-run eatery, tucked away in the relatively quiet Bangkok Mediplex, has a classy-yet-casual atmosphere and serves up down-to-earth yet delicious meat-free Thai meals. G/F, Bangkok Mediplex Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 42, 02-713-6599.

Open daily 10am-8pm. Zd7 Soul Food MahaNakorN — Thai. $$-$$$ Soul Food dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails, as well as a brief menu of well executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect on the hip crowd and the place is packed most nights. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-midnight. ZC6 SurFaCe — French. $$$ Their outdoors vibe, thanks to the conservatory style interior and the daybeds set out among their vegetable garden, matches the overall farm-to-table concept of Surface: classic French dishes from produce that they largely grow themselves. 107 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-258-2858/7597. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6-11pm, Sat-Sun 10am-2pm. ZB6

surfAce

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L’Appart

Located on the 32nd floor of the new Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, there’s already been a lot of chatter about this place. Partly because of the stylish ambience, designed by renowned local interior company PIA and party due to the modern French cuisines created by Chef Jeremy Tourret who used to work in the kitchen of three Michelin star New York restaurant, Daniel run by famous Chef Daniel Boulud. Imagine a grand Parisian apartment, which means parquet floors, rich burgundy wallpaper and lots of marble. The food is French cuisine with Thai touches. Chef Jeremy told us that he’s passionate about Thai produce so you can expect regularly changing seasonal items on the brief menu broken down into market, signature dishes and tapas. At the moment, the menu includes dishes like ginger, lemongrass and kaffir steam salmon fillet and the snail ravioli maitre d’ hotel fragrance and garlic croutons. There’s also a full bar but a particular focus on Champagne cocktails. 32/F Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sois 13 and 15), 02-126-9999. Open daily 5pm-midnight. www.sofitel.com. ZB2

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HEALTH + WELLNESS THAILAND

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SPA Apex Medi SpA — Renowned beauty clinic APEX Profound Beauty has gone upscale with this total rejuvenating spa retreat set in downtown Thong Lor. The spa features in-patient rooms, treatment suites, a restaurant and swimming pool and programs range from three-hour spa treatments to seven-day weight-loss packages. 208/1-3, Thonglor Soi 8, 02-713-8331-2. Open daily 8:30am-8:30pm. ZC6 i.SAWAN — With its Tony Chi design, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club and its residential cottages and treatment bungalows is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a fitness club, tennis and squash courts and a 25-meter pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com YN18 HeALTH LANd — Health Land has built its sizeable reputation on a blend of affordable prices and expert masseuses. There are branches throughout town. 120 North Sathorn Rd. , 02-637-8883.

BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 9am-11pm. More branches: www.healthlandspa.com XG13 LeT’S ReLAx — With branches in tourist destinations around Thailand, and a wide variety of packages and trained masseuses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-6626935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight. More branches: www.letsrelaxspa.com ZB3

with black stone and gold mosaics and a host of treatments using exclusive products. Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1199. Open daily 10-8pm. www.panpuri.com IM18 S MediCAL SpA — Founded by a renowned local anti-aging physician, the award-winning spa creates beauty from within, with a selection of integrated wellness programs. 2/2 Bhakdi Bldg., Wireless Rd., 02-253-1010. BTS Ploenchit. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.smedspa.com YL20 SpA BOTANiCA — Surrounded by the lush gardens of the Sukothai Hotel, Spa Botanica is an urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best massage options.

13/3 South Sathorn Rd, 02-2344-8900. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.sukhothai.com XG13 THANN SANCTUARY SpA — THANN Sanctuary offers a variety of treatments based on THANN’s world class spa products within a tranquil space bathed in warm grey and soothing lights. 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.thann.info YM18

URBAN ReTReAT — Urban Retreat’s branches offer relaxing havens from the city in the middle of town. 31/10 Soi Phromjai, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-204-2008/9. Open daily 10am-10pm. More branches: www.urbanretreatspa.net

NEW >

Okura Spa

Hidden away on the 25th floor of new luxury Japanese-chain hotel, The Okura Prestige Bangkok, is the Okura Spa. Set in a contemporary oriental space, guests can enjoy stress-relieving treatments in five dimly-lit treatment rooms. Try the signature Okura Take Relief bamboo massage where therapists roll a warm bamboo pole over your muscles as part of an aroma oil massage utilizing ylang ylang and lavender essence (B3,600). 25/F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02-687-9000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Ploenchit. YM20

eLeMiS SpA — The Elemis Spa is a first in SE Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the ancient Arabian sauna in the Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-2077777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am10pm. www.stregis.com/bangkok YN18

eLemIs spA

MULBeRRY SpA — Set in a 60s-style residential compound, Mulberry Spa offers all the usual selection of treatments amid a classy-yet-cozy ambiance. 132 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1888.

MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 9am-11pm. www. mulberryspa.com ZB3 THe ORieNTAL SpA — As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. www. mandarinoriental.com/bangkok/spa XJ11 pANpURi ORGANiC SpA — Hidden behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of the high-end spa.

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ShopS+ServiceS BANGKOK COURTESY OF DOI TUNG

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DOi TuNG LifesTyLe AT siAm DiscOvery

Downtown AmArin PlAzA — The mall’s Greco-Roman façade actually hides some unexpected gems.

ID1 on the first floor holds an interesting collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs.

496-502 Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-4704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com Ym18 CentrAl Chidlom — The closest thing Bangkok has to Harrods, Central Chidlom, first opened in 1973 and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. It’s packed with leading brands, like Bottega Venetta, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the impressive Food Hall on the ground floor and the views from the international food court, up on the seventh. 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www. central.co.th Ym19 CentrAlWorld — Southeast Asia’s largest lifestyle shopping complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000 sq meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for top brands like Topshop, Gap and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites like Singha Life and Disaya.

Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www. centralworld.co.th Ym18 erAWAn BAngkok — This mini-mall might look petite, but its three floors offer some high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including unique Club 21 stores, like Yohji Yamamoto, Dior Homme and Lanvin. 494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-2507777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com

gAysorn — Thailand’s leading high-end mall is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Celine) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1149. BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com Ym18 mBk Center — Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and all at bargain prices. As a result, the confusing chaos of MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good. Still it’s fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the 6th floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www.mbk-center.co.th Ym16 PlAtinum FAshion mAll — Platinum is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashionrelated from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even single items are very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. BTS Ratchathewi. www. platinumfashionmall.com Yk18 siAm Center — One of the longest-standing shopping malls in Bangkok, it remains a favorite with teen shoppers, thanks to a recent facelift and the cool, cutting-edge local brands that call it home. Siam on Third (3/F) features established Thai fashion designers, while Mob.F (4/F) lets the new wave showcase their work. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamcenter.co.th Ym17

Doi Tung Lifestyle With the aim of improving the overall living standards for rural communities in Chiang Rai province, the late Princess Mother started the Doi Tung Development Project back in 1988. With a focus on encouraging villagers to produce and sell local products, Doi Tung has now grown to be a major brand selling everything from coffee (they even have their own coffee shops, Café Doi Tung) to hand-woven throws at Doi Tung Lifestyle stores nationwide.

Their newly opened flagship store at Siam Discovery is one of their largest outlets.

Covering a space of over 200 sq meters, it houses a complete selection of Doi Tung textile products. The real highlights are the ready-to-wear collections (the current one is Spring/Summer 2012), which sees the project’s designers combine sophisticated cotton fabrics with contemporary cuts and shapes. 2/F, Siam Discovery Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-0424. BTS Siam. www. doitung.org

siAm disCovery Center — The sister mall of Siam Center just celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussaud’s wax museum. It also remains the place to come for Thai furniture brands. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000.

BTS Siam. www.siamdiscoverycenter.co.th YM16 siAm PArAgon — With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like Mango and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World, Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a cinema. As well as lots of restaurants, there’s also a food court in the basement. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamparagon.co.th Ym17

Sukhumvit the emPorium — Set in the heart of the city’s upscale residential area (home to Bangkok’s largest Japanese community), The Emporium offers luxury shopping without the crowds, thanks to its tenant portfolio, which includes brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Prada, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal, Thann and Jim Thompson. There are also lots of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative Design Center. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www. emporiumthailand.com ZC4

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ShopS+ServiceS terminAl 21 — One of Bangkok’s newest shopping complexes boasts an airport terminalcum-international destinations theme. As you travel through the nine floors you can stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the higher floors offer a host of intriguing boutiques by Thai designers.

There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888.

BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21. co.th ZB3

ElSEwhErE CrystAl design Center — Designer chairs, platinum faucets, leather sofas and a lot more home décor products are the main draw for CDC Phase 1, while Phase 2 is filled with restaurants and bars, cute cafés, fashion boutiques and home décor stores.

It’s not the easiest place to get to, though: we recommend a taxi from MRT Lad Phrao. 1420/1 Praditmanutham Rd., Klongchan, 02-101-5999. www.crystaldesigncenter.com oP PlACe — Situated in a beautiful neoclassicalstyle building close to the river, this gorgeous luxury mall oozes charm from the sweeping wooden staircase to the antique lift. The plushly-carpeted halls are home to a host of high-end boutiques offering unique and rare antiques and artifacts from across Southeast Asia, hand crafted jewellery, bespoke tailors and fine art. The Ashwood Gallery that occupies the whole third floor is home to some particularly striking pieces. There’s also a free shuttle service to the neighboring OP Garden, which houses an art gallery, restaurants and high-end boutiques. 30/1 Soi 38, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-266-0186. Open daily 10:30am-7pm. XJ11

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top tailors Boutique suit makers whose cut and cloth you can really trust.

duly One of the best boutiques in town when it comes to formal tailored shirts and suits with sophisticated details. They import their fabrics directly from textile manufacturers in Italy (including Egyptian cotton from Thomas Mason), putting them a cut above most street-side tailors. Made to measure shirts are from B4,450 and can cost up to B12,000, depending on the fabrics and materials selected.

2/F, Royal Wing, Siam Kempinski, 02-251-8818. www.laladuly. co.th. BTS Siam

Button up Aiming to deliver the very best quality at pretty reasonable prices, its made-to-measure shirt service offers the widest range of personalization we know of in Bangkok: 18 choices for collars, three for collar stitches, three for pockets, 13 for cuffs, five for front placket, three front styles, two body styles, six back styles, four bottom styles and more than a 100 types of fabric. Prices start from B3,500. 113/6 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Soi Thong Lor, opposite Market Place), 02-712-6111/-2. www.thebuttonup.com

July tailor July Tailor is best known for the tailor-made suits and shirts it makes for HM the King as well as leading politicians and government officials. Around for three generations, the place may be old school but it offers a wide range of classic collars, cuffs and body styles—service is reassuringly old fashioned too. Prices for made-to-measure shirts start from B2,500.

30/6 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-2359210, 02-233-0171. Open MonSat 9am-7pm. www.julytailor. com. BTS Sala Daeng

mArkEtS rAtChAdA night mArket — Apart from vintage cars, motorbikes, bicycles and parts, you’ll find old and new home décor items, secondhand books, fashion apparel, handcrafted products and even some lethal cocktails at the 200-plus stalls.

Ratchadapisek Rd. MRT Ladprao. Open Sat, 7pm-1am.

ChAtuChAk mArket — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is one of the world’s largest weekend markets. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections, roughly categorized by the products on offer. You can literally spend the weekend here amid the rabbit warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: Books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 10-24 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and homedecor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/ Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.chatuchak.org july 2012 I W HERE t Ha ila n d 27

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nightlife BANGKOK Mixo Bar & Park Society The newly opened Sofitel So Bangkok is causing a stir because of its edgy interior design—but it’s also proving a big hit on the nightlife scene thanks to its range of drinking venues. Start things off at their main lobby on the 9th floor, where Mixo Bar offers a chance for some indoor chillaxing in a bold contemporary space that offers views of Lumpini Park through its the floorto-ceiling windows. But if you want a breath of fresh air, then you can always head up to Park Society on the 29th floor. Inside is for fine dining, while out on the rooftop it’s all about killer cocktails and the striking view. For a more intimate night out there’s also a small mezzanine one level up called Hi-So Cabana. B500 entrance fee with one complimentary drink. 2 Sathorn Rd., 02-624PArK SOcietY

Downtown Bed SuppercluB — Bangkok’s leading club, with a space-age interior, is divided into two sides— the restaurant, which offers creative food and cutting-edge performances; and the club, where beautiful people dance to everything from house to drum n’ bass. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. Open daily 7pm-2am. www. bedsupperclub.com ZA1 Hyde & Seek — Elevated pub grub, arguably Bangkok’s best cocktail menu and décor that conjures up both Victorian drawing room gravitas and NYC sophistication—it’s no wonder this place is so popular. Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-168-5152-3. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. YM21 THe SpeAkeASy — The two-storey rooftop space takes you back to the jazz age of the roaring twenties with chic decor featuring dark woods and mysterious hues. A balcony on level 24 lets you take in 180-degree views of Bangkok’s CBD, while an alfresco rooftop offers a more leisurely ambiance in a faux garden. 2425/F, Hotel Muse Bangkok, 55/555 Langsuan Rd., 02-630-4000. Open daily 6pm-1am. YN19 Q BAr — The Soi 11 institution continues to deliver a heady mix of bass lines and international DJs. Its large outdoor patio is a great spot to kick back with friends, while the recently renovated downstairs level, featuring a serious dance floor and three bars, is perfect for serious beat addicts. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-3274.

Open daily 8pm-1am. ZA1

THe ST regiS BAr — With a great New York Mad Men vibe and impressive views, this spot also boasts a daily champagne sabrage and their Thai take on the bloody mary. 12/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily noon-1am. www.stregis. com. YN18 W XyZ — Hidden on the mezzanine of a savvy new hotel, this bar serves up one of the largest range of molecular cocktails in town. Its LED-lit floor and ceiling makes the space a sensual lounge to meet and mingle. Aloft Bangkok, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-7000. Open daily 6pm-1am. ZA1

W XYZ

RiveRsiDe ViVA & AViV — Fitting for its riverside location, this new venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nauticallyinspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive, well-made cocktails and pub grub.

River City Complex, 23 Yota Rd., 02-639-6305.

Open daily 11am-midnight. www.vivaaviv.com

000. MRT Lumphini. www.sofitel.com/6835

thongLoR/ekkamai cloudS — The futuristic vision is certainly striking— from the undulating ceiling, sporting anything from roses to Barbie dolls, to the acrylic seating inset with leaves. Potent cocktails from the laboratory of a bar add to the techno-ecoinspired theme. G/F, Seenspace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2365. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZB6 FAT guT’Z SAlooN — Sitting on the corner of a small lifestyle mall, this hole-in-the-wall reminds us of a New Orleans speakeasy, with its dark panelled walls and matching furniture. A bluesfuelled band, interesting cocktails and fish n’ chips are the house specials. 1/F, Grass Thonglor, 264 Thonglor Soi 12, 02-714-9832. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-2am. iroN FAirieS — Like no other bar in Bangkok, it actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies. A great live band and powerful cocktails make this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 084-520-2301. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. ZB6 MelloW — Another popular spot for dining and drinking, Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, well-off locals. They’re attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and delicious cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am. ZA6

28 W H E R E t Ha i land I J ULY 2 0 1 2

Nightlife listing_JULY12.indd 28

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bangkok Navigate

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2 Chatuchak Market

!1 Yaowarat (China Town)

3 Vimanmek Mansion

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumpini Park

5 Khaosan Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Center

6 National Museum

!5 Siam Paragon Shopping Center

7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

!6 CentralWorld and Zen

8 Wat Po

!7 Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

9 Wat Arun

!8 Thailand Cultural Center

july 2012 I W HERE THA ILA N D 29

Navigate listing_june12.indd 29

6/22/12 8:32 PM

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Navigate GET MOVING AIRPORT LINk—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (connecting to the MRT, but it’s a long walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 15 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 30 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan City Terminal. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B90 for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.

Dining

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS—These fast, frequent and cheap ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with an excellent guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river.

CANAL BOATS—While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only one canal still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Ban Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town, stopping off at various piers along the way.

Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nervewracking (and physically-challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal (klong) water, any

TO BANG SUE STATION

2

3

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1. Apex Medi Spa C6 2. Let’s Relax B2 3. Mulberry Spa B3 4. Oasis Spa C5

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by Baan Kanitha C6 8. Fuzio B7 9. Harvey B6 10. Indus E5 11. Isao C4 12. Khun Churn D7 13. Kuppa D3 14. L’Appart B2 15. Ma du Zi Restaurant by Yuyai D3 16. Near Equal C5 17. Phuket Town C6 18. Rosabieng B1 19. Seafood Bar D3 20. Soul Food Mahanakorn C6 21. Surface B6 22. Thai Lao Yeh C5 23. Water Library B6 24. Xuan Mai A6

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2

INTERCITy BuSES—There are three main 24 25 1 stations for buses out of town. The Northern Bus Tha Phrachan Pier Tha Tien PierTerminal or Mo Chit (02-936-2841/-3) is located ·‹Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã ·‹ÒàµÕ¹ a taxi ride away from Mo Chit BTS/Kamphaeng 3 Phet MRT and services Northern and Northeastern Thailand as well as some Eastern destinations. The Eastern Bus Terminal (02-391-2504) is located right

by BTS Ekkamai and has buses departing to Pattaya, Rayong, Koh Samed and 9 Finally, the Southern 1 Trat.

1 Bus Terminal or Sai TaiWat(02-894-6122) is located Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ Wat Po ÇѴ⾸Ô์ across the river at Thonburi on Boromratchachonnanee Road and services Western (Kanchanaburi) and Southern Thailand, including the islands of Phuket and Samui.

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There are two types of buses: non-air-con and aircon. Fares for non-air-con buses are B6.5-7.5 while fares for air-conditioned buses are B10-23, depending on the distance. Fares are paid to on-board staff, who rarely speak English. Visit www.bmta.co.th for a list of routes and schedules.

Shopping

1. OP Place J9

TO BEARING STATION

Art & Attractions

8 1

Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

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ESSENTIAL NumBERS 27

26

Emergency Services (Fire6Brigade, Police) 191

28

Wang Lang Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇѧËÅѧ

Airport Rail Link 02-308-5600 http://airportraillink.railway.co.th Bangkok metropolitan Administration Hotline 1555 Bangkok Taxi Call Center 1681 / 1661 Bangkok 4 mass Transit System (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily: 6am-midnight).

BTS Tourist Information Center : 02-6173 7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th Phra Athit Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

Bangkok metro (mRT) 02-624-5200. www. bangkokmetro.co.th Wat Chana Songkram ÇÑ´ª¹Ðʧ¤ÃÒÁ

Chao Phraya Express Boat Call Center 02623-6001-3 Station Suvanbhumi Police International Airport 1722/02ʶҹյÓÃǨ 132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com

Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) – Call center 1672 or log into www.tourismthailand.org Tourist Police 24 hour call center 1155 Democracy Monument

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Health & Wellness 1. Wat Po Surasak Q24 ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Art & Attractions

1. Grand Palace Q25 2. Museum Siam Q23 3. National Gallery Q27 4. National Museum Q27 5. Rattanakosin SaphanExhibition Taksin Hall S26 ÊоҹµÒ¡ÊÔ ¹ 6. Royal Barge Museum P27 7. The Queen’s Gallery S27 8. Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) P22 Pier (Temple of the Emerald 9. Wat PhraCentral Kaeo ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã Buddha) Q25

The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡Ãا extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station.

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Bangkok Skytrain (BTS) stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city.

Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ There are two main lines: the3Silom Line, which runs 9 from across the river in Wongwian Yai to National Pan Rd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹ 6 the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Stadium; and Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit Soi Silom 1 9 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 1 before heading up5north to the Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. SiamSurasak is the interchange Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ station between the two lines.

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There are interchange stations between the MRT and BTS at Sukhumvit 2 (MRT)/Asoke (BTS) and Silom able and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 3 (MRT)/Sala Daeng (BTS). for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivFares are B15-B40 for both trains. Tickets can be ers speak limited English, so do get your destination bought for individual journeys, or you can get special written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication.

Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์ one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to number of trips. For more information, go to www. only pay the metered price. bts.co.th and www.bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the

getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo 7 opportunities.

However, there is no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on aGprice before getting in. Haggle hard and be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

12

TO BANG SUE STATION

3

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Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

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1. Boqueria N21 2. Cafe Claire N2o 3. Drinking Tea, Eating Rice N21 4. Erawan Tea Room N18 5. Gaggan O19 6. Gianni Ristorante N20 7. Grossi Trattoria M19 8. La Monita Taqueria M21 9. Medici N19 10. Reflexions N21 11. Shintaro N18 12. Sra Bua L17 13. Thompson Bar & Restaurant L15 14. Zuma N18

Nightlife

1. Hyde & Seek M21 2. Speakeasy M21 3. The St Regis Bar N18

Health & Wellness 1. Elemis Spa N18 2. i.sawan N18 3. Okura Spa M21 4. Panpuri Spa M18 5. S Medical Spa L20 6. Thann Sanctuary Spa M18

Royal Bangkok Sports CLub

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Art & Attractions

1. 100 Tonson Gallery N20 2. Bangkok Art & Cultural Center (BACC) M16 3. Jim Thompson Art Center & House L1 5 4. Siam Ocean World M17 5. Sombat Permpoon Gallery L21 6. White Space Gallery M16

ATmS—ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside of 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

LIST Of BANkS—Banking hours are generally from 8:30am to 3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm. The main banks are: Bankgok Bank (1333, www.bangkokbank.com), Bank of Ayudhya (1572, www.krungsri.com), CIMB Thai (02-626-7777, www.cimbthai.com), Kasikorn Bank (02-888-8888, www.kasikornbank.com), Kiatnakin Bank (02-680-3333, www.kiatnakin.co.th), Krungthai Bank (1551, www.ktb.co.th), Siam Commercial Bank (02-777-7777, www.scb.co.th), Standard Chartered Bank (1595, www.standardchartered.co.th), Thanachart Bank (1770, www.thanachartbank.com), Tisco Bank (www.tisco.co.th), TMB Bank (02-299-1111, www.tmbbank.com), United Overseas Bank (02285-1555, www.uob.co.th).

HOSPITALS—Bumrungrad International, (Sukhumvit Soi 1-3, 02-667-1000, emergency 02667-2999), Bangkok Hospital (Soi Soonvijai, Petchaburi Rd., 02-310-3000), BNH Hospital (Convent Rd., 02-686-2700), Samitivej Sukhumvit (Sukhumvit 49, 02-711-8181), Siriraj SiPH (Phrannok Rd., 1474). july 2012 I W HERE THA ILA N D 33

Navigate listing_june12.indd 33

Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃس

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5

Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

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Chit Lom Rd. ¶¹¹ªÔ´ÅÁ

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30 Things we LOve about Thailand

!3

!4

@8

@5 1 Exploring the rich Lanna culture and amazing ancient temples on the charming streets of Chiang Mai.

9 Offering alms to Thai and Mon monks in the morning mist of Sangkhlaburi in Kanchanaburi.

2 Discovering Michelin-Starworthy, traditional Thai dishes at David Thompson’s Nahm (G/F, Metropolitan, 02-625-3333).

!0 Discovering the natural delights of Phu Kradueng National Park in Loei.

!1 Sipping a glass of Monsoon Valley Cuvee de Siam while looking out

3 Browsing for cutting-edge fashions over the rolling hills at Hua Hin Hills from the exciting young designers at Mob F (4/F, Siam Center, BTS Siam).

course at the Doi Chaang (www. doichaangcoffee.com) plantation in Chiang Rai.

!8 Enjoying the cutting-edge

@5 Setting out on a boat trip from

performances, alongside Bangkok’s beautiful people at Bed Supperclub (26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537.

BTS Nana).

Koh Samui to explore the 40 stunning tropical islands of Angthong Marine National Park.

@6 Taking a bicycle trip around the !9 Getting up early to experience the

drinking in the memories along the River Kwai in Kanchanaburi.

!3 Browsing the quirky stalls of the 5 Getting lost in the maze of alleys

@4 Taking a coffee-roasting

boxing match at Lumpini Stadium (Rama IV Rd., MRT Lumpini, www. muaythailumpini.com).

Vineyard (081-701-0222).

!2 Traversing the famous bridge and 4 Taking a long tail boat to Freedom Beach, the wonderfully inaccessible (and peaceful) beach in Phuket.

!7 Sitting ringside for a Thai

floral delights and organized chaos of Pak Klong Talad flower market.

floating markets, lush plantations and crumbling temples of Bang Krajao (Spice Roads, www.spiceroads.com).

@0 Enjoying tasty street eats from the

@7 Playing 18 holes on the challenging

numerous stalls to be found in China Town’s Yaowarat Road.

Championship level course at Black Mountain Golf Club (www. blackmountainhuahin.com), Hua Hin.

at Chatuchak Weekend Market (BTS Mo Chit/MRT Kamphaeng Phet).

retro-inspired riverside warehouses of Asiatique (Free ferry from BTS Saphan Taksin).

@1 Escaping the stresses of modern

6 Experiencing the eerie beauty of

!4 Discovering the leading Thai

living at one of Bangkok’s meditation centers (try www.bia.or.th).

the sacred Wat Rong Khun (aka The White Temple) in Chiang Rai.

contemporary art collection at the Museum of Contemporary Art or MOCA (02-953-1005/-7, www. mocabangkok.com).

7 Discovering the Dickensian delights of real-life fairy factory and bar, Iron Fairies (394 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 084-425-8080).

8 Learning how to kite surf on the breezy unspoilt beach at Pranburi, try Air Stylers Kite School (www. airstylers.com).

!6 Scaling the stunning limestone cliffs at Railay Beach.

trail and experiencing the unique BabNyonya architecture (see page 9).

@2 Spending a whole day of pampering with a wide selection of treatments at i.Sawan (5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan, 02-254-1234).

!5 Getting a glimpse of what Bangkok used to be like with a klong tour around the old canals (klongs) of Nonthaburi from Saphan Taksin Pier.

@8 Walking Phuket Town’s heritage

@3 Exploring the home of secret agent and silk tycoon Jim Thompson (6 Soi Kasemsan 2, 02-216-7368), a complex of gorgeous Thai teak pavilions packed with Asian antiques.

@9 Getting up close to a gentle giant with a day visit to the Elephant Nature Foundation (www. elephantnaturefoundation.org) just outside Chiang Mai.

#0 Soaking up the view of the Andaman Sea from your private pool at the luxurious Sri Panwa (www. sripanwa.com) in Phuket.

34 W H E R E t Ha i l and I j uly 2 0 1 2

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