Where® Thailand August 2012

Thailand

PLUS

a u g u s t 2 0 12 the complete guide to go ®

®

beach revolution beasts and burgers silk stories

Pier to Pier Exploring Bangkok’s riverside communities

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contents where

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l THAILAND l AugusT 2012

the guide

Bangkok

18 arts+Culture The top galleries, attractions and museums plus a guide to Bangkok's best parks

20 dining The nose-to-tail dining trend hits Bangkok and a sunday brunch with a difference

25 HealtH+Wellness Thai style and French elegance come together in the spa at the sofitel sukhumvit

5

the siam

Features

Louis Vuitton unveil their latest store and we pay a vist to three leading silk shops

28 nigHtlife Manhattan brings a touch of New York style to the city's nightlife scene

05 l RiveR AdventuRes exploring the different neighborhoods along the Chao Phraya River.

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26 sHoPs+serviCes

29 MaPs silom, sukhumvit, siam and Rattanakosin

10 l PARty Phuket How a new wave of high-end beach clubs are transforming the island.

also inside

escapes

14 Managing Editor, Special Projects Nick Measures Editor Top Koaysomboon General Manager James Fuss Managing Editor GrĂŠgoire Glachant Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapong

4 Hot dates 16 Hot stuff

12

island neWs

29 navigate

14

uPCountry neWs

34 30 tHings We Love

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

MorrIS VISITor PUBlICaTIoNS

Marketing Manager Arunee Wilson Marketing Executive Natta Yantasri Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant

MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

Cover by Monruedee Jansuttipan

MVP | NaTIoNal SalES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.

Com

MVP | CarTograPhy aNd CIrCUlaTIoN General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

MorrIS CoMUNICaTIoNS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris Iii President William S. Morris Iv

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/WhereThailand

MVP | CrEaTIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TEChNology & MaNUfaCTUrINg Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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hot dates THAILAND

Through SepTember 2 TiTanic: The arTifacT exhibiTion

To commemorate the 100th anniversary of the sinking of the legendary cruise liner, which set sail on its maiden (and final) voyage in 1912, Titanic: The Artifact Exhibition honors and remembers the fated journey of “The Ship of Dreams.” The exhibition has been traveling the world, from the USA to Singapore, and has now washed up in Thailand, where it will showcase some 300 original artifacts retrieved from the wreck site of Titanic, alongside a range of multimedia installations. Tickets are B500 for adults and B300 for students. at centralWorld LiVe, 8/f, centralWorld, rama 1 rd. bTS chit Lom. www. bectero.com/titanic

AuguST 3 & 17

cLaSSic performanceS

AuguST 12 QUeen SirikiT’S 80Th birThDay ceLebraTionS The 12th of August marks one the most important dates in the Thai calendar Thai Mother’s Day, a national holiday held to honor Her Majesty Queen Sirikit’s birthday. This year is especially auspicious as Thailand will be celebrating Queen Sirikit’s 80th birthday. Countrywide alms giving ceremonies will be followed by grand celebrations. A highlight will be the candle-lighting ceremony at Sanam Luang, next to the Grand Palace, on the evening of August 12 which will be followed by a festival of music, culture and fireworks. The area around Ratchadamnoen Avenue will also be lit up as part of the festivities. More information at TAT Contact Center 1672 and www.tourismthailand.org

This month sees two major performances involving the Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra. On August 3, Alfonso Scarano leads a performance of Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake suite and a world premiere of Thomas Hyuk Cha’s Glory to God, while Thai violin soloist Pitchayapa Lueangtawikit performs Max Bruch’s Violin Concerto No. 1. On August 17, the orchestra performs Bruckner’s Symphony No. 5 with guest conductor Claude Villaret, while piano soloist Kwanchanok Pongpairoj performs Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy. Tickets are B300-500.

7pm. at mahidol University (Salaya campus), music auditorium, 25/25 budhamonthon Sai 4 rd., 02-800-2525/-34 ext. 154-5.

AuguST 2

bcb aUgUST Dance performance 2012 Ahead of the Bangkok International Festival of Dance, which is coming in September the Bangkok City Ballet performs Le Bayadere with worldrenowned dancer Saranwee Tanatanit. Misha Bart, Artistic Director of World Ballet International, will be this year’s special guest performer. Tickets are B1,000 at Thaiticketmajor.com. 2pm, 7pm. at m Theater, 2884/2 new petchaburi rd., 080-2600771/-6.

AuguST 17-19 DreamgirLS

The latest production from Dreambox, one of Bangkok’s leading theater companies, is a take on the Golden Globe-winning movie Dreamgirls (2006), itself an adaptation of a Broadway musical. The story portrays the evolution of R&B music through the eyes of a female African-American girl group. Fri-Sat at 7:30pm, and Sat-Sun at 2pm. Tickets are B8002,000. at m Theater, 2884/2 new petchaburi rd., 080-260-0771/-6.

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feature

River Life Discovering the communities and attractions along the River of Kings

From the magnificent Temple of Dawn to the fascinating Museum Siam and from the vibrant flower market to the colonial elegance of high tea at the Author’s Lounge, the Chao Phraya River running through the heart of Bangkok offers a host of cultural, shopping and culinary delights. We pick out our highlights at the different piers along the river.

Sathorn Pier Central

The Oriental Pier N1

Situated right next to BTS Saphan Thaksin, Sathorn or Central Pier is the main hub for the express boats that ply their trade up and down the river.

It’s also where you can catch free shuttle boats to the five star riverside hotels, and shopping complexes River City and Asiatique. Just next to the BTS station steps you’ll see a Chinese-style temple. This is Jieow Eng Bieow Shrine, erected 150 years ago to pay tribute to 100 Chinese merchants or monks (this bit is unclear) that perished at sea. About 100 meters down Charoen Krung Road between Sois 52 and 54, is the “Boat temple” or Wat Yannawa. It is notable for the pagoda, built by King Rama III to resemble a Chinese junk, as a symbol of trade and as a reminder of how many Chinese immigrants came to Thailand.

This pier is surrounded by some of the city’s leading hotels, the most famous being the Mandarin Oriental Hotel (48 Oriental Avenue, 02659-9000) with its rich 130-year history. Since it first opened its doors in 1879 it has played host to various famous guests, from rock stars to royalty. However, it is perhaps best known for the notable authors who passed through its doors like Somerset Maugham, Noel Coward and Joseph Conrad. Even if you’re not staying there, you can still soak up the history with a spot of high tea in the beautiful colonial style Author’s Lounge (afternoon tea 2-6pm daily, B1,050). As well as history this pier is also a good spot for some high end shopping.

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THE CHArMiNg CANALS

Baan Silapin Hidden in Klong (canal) Bang Luang, Baan Silapin, is better known as “The Artist’s House.” A fellowship of artists bought a century-old wooden house, the former home of a merchant family, and transformed it into an artist’s residence and public space. Baan Silapin is where to experience the “slow” life of old Bangkok, whether that’s simply relaxing by the canal, strolling around the ancient homes, sampling traditional drinks, shopping for art or catching the Thai puppet show (2pm, daily except Wed). You can hire a longtail boat from Saphan Thaksin Bridge or Tha Tien Pier. Alternatively, catch the BTS to Wongwian Yai and then get a taxi from there to Soi Charansanitwong 3.

Open Mon-Tue 10am-6pm, Wed-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat-Sun 9am-7pm. www. klongbangluang.com

Visanu “Peter” Kidkarn, 44, an assistant chief concierge aka the “Klong Guru” at Anantara Bangkok Riverside was raised by the river and has always been in love with life on Bangkok’s klongs (canals).

“The klongs let you explore the traditional ways of life: old wooden houses, people in small boats trading their wares on the water. This reminds us how important canals were to Thai people before we had roads.

You can’t get this walking around the central business district.”

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feature OP Place (Behind Mandarin Oriental, Charoen Krung Soi 38, 02-266-0186.

Open daily 10:30am-6:30pm) is a beautiful neo-classical building filled with boutiques offering the very best in arts and antique, while the nearby OP garden (Charoen Krung Soi 38) is a leafy al fresco mall home to the Serindia art gallery, stores, restaurants and cafes. If you’re still not sated then hit Charoen Krung Road itself, where you’ll walk past a multitude of antiques, jewelery and tailor shops catering to the riverside hotels’ guests.

Siam CommeRCiaL Bank

getting around One of the best things about traveling along the river is the chance to avoid Bangkok’s notorious traffic. The Chao Phraya Express Boats plow their way up and down stream stopping at the various piers along the way. The main hub is Sathorn Pier by BTS Saphan Thaksin which has regular ferries running all the way upstream to Nonthaburi. You can buy individual tickets on the boat or opt for a one-day river pass for the Chao Phraya Tourist Boat which stops at the eight main piers listed in this story. A B150 ticket, gets you unlimited rides on the tourist boat and other express boat services on the day of purchase. You can also hire the local long tail boats, at many piers, but prices vary depending on the destination, as well as your haggling skills. Expect to pay around B2,000 for a two-hour trip.

RiveR City

Si Phraya Pier N3 It might be sat between a high-end hotel and a shopping mall but there’s also plenty of cultural treats to be found in the neighboring back streets. Right next door to the pier is river City (Captain Bush Lane. Open daily 10am-10pm. 02-2370077. www.therivercity.com), a mall and auction house with a real focus on Asian antiques. The main departure point for many of the river cruises it is also home to numerous restaurants and cafes with Viva & Aviv (1/F, River City, 02-639-6305.

Open daily 11am-midnight) a good spot for watching the sunset, cocktail in hand.

For further cultural shopping, continue down Captain Bush Lane to a small row of warehouses which contains P Tendercool (massive sculptural tables) and Warp 54 Studio (pop art-inspired portraits with an Asian focus).

Something of an oddity in this city of Buddhist temples the cream-colored spire of the Holy rosary Church (Soi Wanit 2. Open Mon-Fri from 8.30am-5.30pm.

02-266-4849) is a vestige of the heavy Portuguese presence in Siam in the 18th century. Constructed in 1786 it is one of Bangkok’s oldest places of Christian worship. It’s just past River City on Soi Wanit. Another striking architectural sight is the European-style façade of the Siam Commercial Bank (Soi Wanit 2. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-3.30pm). It opened in 1906 as Thailand’s first bank.

After all that walking you might need some sustenance. Head across river to ThreeSixty at Millennium Hilton Hotel (Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-442-2000.

Open daily 5pm-1am). The imposing UFOlike structure on top of this five-star hotel, is actually a 32nd floor bar with stunning river views, live jazz and great cocktails.

Meanwhile, right next door to the pier you’ll find the restuarant Sambal at royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel (02-266-0123.

Open daily 6pm-1am) which serves up an intriguing mix of Southeast Asian dishes.

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feature ratchawongse Pier N5 Tha Nam Ratchawongse (Ratchawongse Pier) lies at the heart of Bangkok’s largest Chinese community and is the perfect jumping off point to explore Chinatown. Better known as Yaowarat, this area was where the first Chinese immigrants settled over 200 years ago and remains home to gold shops, teashops, traditional medicine stores and also some of the most delicious street food in town.

It’s a great place to explore on foot, though it can get hot and crowded, especially on weekends, and is home to two of Bangkok’s most bustling markets: Phahurat and Sampheng markets. Phahurat Market is also known as Thailand’s Little India, as it’s home to the city’s largest Sikh population who continue a thriving

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ASiATiquE

textile trade. Across the street is Sampheng Market, which is the oldest and biggest wholesale market in town. The photogenic, winding lanes of Sampheng have everything, from textiles and toys to costume jewelry and cutlery—all at bargain wholesale prices.

If you’re more interested in religion not retail, head along to Wat Mangkon Kamalawat (Mangkon Road. Open daily 6am-6pm, 02-222-3975). The name means dragon lotus and it is the most sacred Chinese temple in Bangkok.

Built in the reign of King Rama V in 1871, the temple is usually bustling with worshippers making offerings to their ancestors amid the heady scents of incense and the smoky light from the ever-burning oil lamps.

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yaowaRat

Recently opened, this is the city’s answer to a riverside shopping mall. Asiatique The Riverfront is themed according to the city’s traditional architectural styles and is split into several sections, with over 1,500 boutiques, a variety of eateries, beer gardens, an outdoor activity square and a panoramic view of the Chao Phraya.

2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488.

Free shuttle boat from Saphan Thaksin pier.

wat mangkoRn kamaLawat

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feature riVEr PiErS

To Nonthaburi

Phra Athit N13

Wang Lang (Siriraj) N10

muSeum Siam

Wang Lang (Siriraj) Pier Pak kLong taLad

Maharaj N

Tha Tien Pier N8 Tha Tien N8

Ratcha-wongse N5

Si Phraya N3

Oriental N1

Sathorn (Central) To Asiatique

This pier is the gateway to one of the most-visited temples in Bangkok. A major tourist attraction, Wat Pho (no shorts, short skirts or tank tops.

B50 entrance fee. Open daily 6am5pm) is famous as the home of the 46-meter-long reclining Buddha and as the birthplace of Thai massage.

This dates back to 1843, when King Rama III commissioned 60 diagrams depicting various techniques to be inscribed on the walls. Visitors can still enjoy a Thai traditional massage at the school located in the grounds.

A little further down the road is the Museum Siam (4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-225-2777. Open Tue-Sun 10am6pm. B300. www.museumsiam. com), Housed in a former Ministry of Commerce building, the Museum

portrays the history of Thailand through interactive presentations.

A little further down Chak Phet Road lies Thailand’s largest flower market Pak Klong Talad. Home to every color and type of flower, it’s open round the clock, but, for the real action, head down here between 2-4 am when the day’s deliveries arrive and retailers from all over town come to pick the best bunches.

Right across from Tha Tien Pier by cross river ferry is one of Bangkok’s most iconic landmarks, Wat Arun.

The 76-meter-tall prang (Khmerstyle tower) of this “Temple of Dawn” dominates the skyline on the Thonburi bank of the river. Arun means morning and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite river bank.

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Wang Lang Pier is always bustling thanks to its location surrounded by hospitals, universities and markets.

Adjacent to the pier is Wang Lang Market, famed for its choice of secondhand merchandise (tip: new stuff arrives every Monday) and plenty of traditional Thai food and desserts.

Not far from the pier by taxi, you’ll find The royal Barge Museum (Arunamarin Rd. Open daily 9am5pm. 02-424-0004. B100), home to eight of the barges, which are still used in ceremonial events like the Royal Barge Procession. Carved out of giant pieces of teak, gilded with gold and with prows depicting different mythical creatures they need up to 50 rowers to propel them through the water.

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Klong guru Boat Trip Anantara Bangkok Riverside has recently introduced a new service for those who want to get a different perspective on the city. Their “Klong Guru” experience is a four and a half hour boat trip, where you get to explore the smaller canals that branch off from the Chao Phraya led by a canal expert.

Home to a slower pace of life, where the houses lean out over the water and the locals

still use the canal as their main method of transport, the tour includes visits to Klong Talad Nam Wat Sai a formerly bustling floating market, Klong Dan, where you stop off at the historic Wat ratcha O rasaram royal Temple built

by King Rama 3, and Klong Bang Luang, where you’ll enjoy a local lunch cooked fresh from boat vendors and watch a traditional puppet show at

Baan Silapin (see box, page 5). The tour leaves the resort at 11am every Saturday and Sunday and costs B4,000 for a one-person private trip (or B2,000/person for 2 people) or B1,500/person for a trip of 3-6 people, inclusive of all non-alcoholic drinks and lunch. Anantara Bangkok Riverside, Charoennakhon Soi 61, 02-476-0022. Free shuttle boat from Central Pier.

wat RatCha o RaSaRam

Baan SiLaPin

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Pad thai at kLong Bang Luang

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feature Maharaj Pier N This is the closest pier to The grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo (Na Phra Lan Rd., Phra Nakhon. No tanktops, shorts, miniskirts or flip-flops. B350.

Open daily 8.30am-3.30pm. Free tours in English available at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2:00pm.), Thailand’s most revered landmarks.

Construction of the palace began in 1782 and it served as the residence of the first kings of the current Chakri Dynasty. The highlights include the Chakri Mahaprasat Hall, featuring a combination of Western-style architecture and traditional Thai-style roof; the Dusit Mahaprasat Hall, a model of Thai royal architecture; and Wat Phra Kaeo, home to the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred religious icon. The exquisite mural paintings on the walls enclosing Wat Phra Kaeo, depicting the story of the epic the Ramayana, are another can’tmiss attraction.

Next to Maharaj Pier is Tha Prachan, Bangkok’s largest and oldest amulet market, selling everything to do with these religious talismans and plenty of other interesting bric a brac as well. On the left of Thammasat University you can find the Bangkok National Museum (Na Phra Lan Rd. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm.

Closed holidays. B250. Tours in English available at 9:30am on Wed and Thu). Formerly part of Wang

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Na Palace, these Thai pavilions are home to some of the nation’s most precious artifacts. The slightly dusty museum houses three permanent exhibitions covering: Thai history, arts, archaelogy and ethnography.

Phra Athit Pier N13 Named after the demolished Phra Arthit Fort, one of 14 ancient forts built to protect Bangkok from river assaults, Phra Arthit is home to several historic sites and the infamous Kaosan Road. Walk up the road from the pier and you’ll arrive at Phra Arthit road, which boasts numerous restaurants, cute cafes and hip bars, set in beautiful old shophouses that retain many period details. On the left hand side is Phra Sumane Fort, one of the remaining citadels built in 1783. The area around the fort is now a park named Suan Santi Chaiprakarn, a popular venue for those looking to relax and watch occasional shows and events.

A small lane next to a 7-Eleven leads to rambutri road, turn left and you’ll find yourself in the backpacker enclave of Khao San road. A former site of milled rice (khaosan) the market now features numerous street stalls, cheap guest houses, cafes and laidback bars lining both sides of the road and the surrounding streets as well.

Bangkok nationaL muSeum

Boutique riverside Stays Sala Arun This is the bed and breakfast sister of the nearby Arun Residence, and you can expect the same kind of simple, old-school decoration, with plenty of wood, old framed photographs and brass fans—plus a stunning view of Wat Arun on the opposite bank. The highlight has to be that every room has a small balcony space for you to get closer to the river and read your morning paper while overlooking the Temple of Dawn. 47-49 Soi Ta Tien, 02-622-2932. www. salaarun.com

The Siam This deluxe hotel, comprised of just 39 villas and suites and one exclusive cottage, features a sophisticated resort with an Art Deco-inspired decor from celebrated architect Bill Bensley, while the antiques come from the owners’ personal collection. Among the four dining spots, the highlight has to be Chon, serving traditional Thai cuisine in an old teak house overlooking the river. 3/2 Khao Rd., 02-206-6999. www. thesiamhotel.com

riva Surya Owned by the people behind the Chao Phraya Express Boat, The Riva Surya’s six-story hotel holds 68 rooms, starting from B3,300. Making generous use of dark woods, it mixes retro and contemporary touches for an updated “colonial” vibe.

Also try the bistro bar Bubble & Rum, which acts as both a garden tearoom during the day and serves basic dishes from steak to pad Thai at night. 23 Phra Arthit Rd., 02-633-5000. www.rivasurya.com

Bangkok Tree House And now for something completely different. Bangkok Tree House is a cluster of three-story suites sitting a long way downstream in the green lung of the city, Bang Krajao.

Featuring clean-cut architecture it combines mineral (metal, glass and lots of mirrors) and organic (wood and bamboo) materials to perfection. We recommend you book the rooftop deck of its Reflect restaurant, where you can sit on bean bags and order a high tea set while you enjoy the view. 60 San Phawut Soi 23, Phra Pradaeng, 02-995-1150. www. bangkoktreehouse.com

RaSaRam

ad thai at ng Luang

ChakRi mahaPRaSat thRone haLL

the Siam

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AROUND THAILAND PHUKET BEacH clUBs catch Beach club The highlight of Catch, Phuket’s first fashionable beach club, has to be its setting on the beautiful and delightfully quiet Surin Beach. A popular night spot, this place is more about partying than lounging during the day as there’s no pool to cool off in. Day membership ranges from B1,500 in summer (MayOct) to B5,000 during peak season (Dec-Jan) but you do get complimentary food and drinks up to this value. Surin Beach, Cherng Talay, 076-316-567.

Open daily 9am-midnight. www. catchbeachclub.com

Re Ka Ta club on the Beach Part of the renovations of The Boathouse resort, this brand new club is currently running a special B1,000 minimum spend deal that gets you complimentary food and drinks up to this value plus access to the spa, pool and island bar.

Sat overlooking Kata Beach, the mood is contemporary and funky. 182-184 Koktanode Rd., Kata Beach, 076-330421. Open daily 7am-midnight. www. rekataphuket.com

Club Culture

How stylish beach clubs are taking over Phuket’s party scene. By Top Koaysomboon Xana

Beach clubs, all-day alfresco lounge-style venues, often with a pool perched right on the beach, have been popping up all over the globe for a while now, first washing up on Thailand’s beaches five years ago. Leading names like Nikki Beach and Beach Republic have been turning their respective stretches of sand on Koh Samui into mini party hubs, filled by the beautiful and the wealthy. Yet, for whatever reason, Phuket has been a little slow to the party. Until this year, that is, which has witnessed an explosion of beach clubs on the island’s West Coast that seems all set to continue.

Benedikt De Bellis, manager of the very first such venue on the island, the 200-seat Catch Beach Club on Surin Beach which opened in 2007, certainly agrees. “The trend has well and truly arrived in Phuket. Apart from Xana on Bang Tao Beach, there’s now also Re Ka Ta at Kata and more to come.”

Veteran hoteliers clearly believe they’re the next big thing, with a beach club central to any plans to renovate decades-old beachfront resorts. When The Boathouse on Kata Beach unveiled its new look after a US$6-million renovation this January, the legendary resort also introduced its beach club Re Ka Ta, designed by Bali-based architect Fredo Taffin to present beach loungers with

what they call the “James Bond Martini Lifestyle.” Re Ka Ta features an infinity swimming pool on the beach front, along with a sun lounging area, spa, boutique and a soon-to-open coffee shop.

The latest example of this trend can be found on Bangtao Beach in the north of the island. After operating for more than a decade, Sheraton Grande Laguna Resort is being rebranded into the world’s largest Angsana Resort, under the management of the Banyan Tree Group. The rebranding is part of a multi-million dollar renovation, which includes the addition of Xana Beach Club. Officially opened last month, it is managed by the Attica Group, who are known for running successful clubs like Le Noir Clarke Quay in Singapore.

Xana Beach club Located on the sweeping Bangtao Beach, this club is wonderfully glamorous, from the 35m swim-up bar and striking white décor to the regular nightlife events.

Minimum spends (TBA) are expected of every guest, however young, as they do not encourage small children. Angsana Laguna Phuket, 10 Moo, Srisoonthorn Rd., Cherng Talay, 076-324-101.

Open daily 9am-midnight. www. xanabeachclub.com

Xana

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AROUND THAILAND Obviously one of the big positives that Phuket has to offer is lots of long, sweeping sandy beaches. ”To have a beach club, you have to have a nice beach,” explains Mark Brimblecombe, of the Attica Group. “The most attractive feature of Xana is the beach itself. If you look at other beach clubs, they all seem intent on competing with Bali. But the beaches in Bali cannot compare to Phuket; they have black sand.”

“Phuket has always had these small bars by the beach that were made into beach clubs. But none of them are really very high-end. So we’re here to assist the hotel and make this club special. I think this is probably the first proper beach club in Phuket,” he continues.

The design of Xana is all about making the most of its sea views, with the centerpiece being the 35-meter swim-up bar, the longest in Phuket, hugged by day

beds, lounge seats and cabanas. As well as the setting, Xana is also looking to bring in international acts or host special events every month, aimed at attracting weekend visitors from Bangkok, Hong Kong, Singapore and even as far afield as Sydney.

With three main beach clubs, and more coming soon (Nikki Beach is set to open their Phuket branch near Bangtao Beach next year), competition will inevitably heat up. As the pioneer, De Bellis says he enjoys rivalry because at the end of the day everybody gets something in return. “We don’t mind there being more beach clubs, we like competition.

It helps us to improve ourselves. And hopefully it helps attract more people from elsewhere on the island, Thailand and overseas so that we all benefit.”

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Re Ka Ta

niKKi Beach

saMUI BEacH clUBs Beach Republic Elegant and sexy with its red hot décor, Beach Republic boasts two infinity pools, regular DJs and live performances. The Ultimate Sunday Brunch Club features an impressive international buffet while entry into the club is B1,000 per day (which turns into F&B credits). Lamai Beach, 077458-100. Open daily 7am-11pm. www. beachrepublic.com

Nikki Beach The Thai sister of celeb-hang-outs, the Nikkis in Las Vegas, Miami and St. Tropez, Nikki Beach offers the chance to kick back in its signature teepees around a free-form pool. The highlight of the week is the Amazing Sunday Brunch, offering over 40 dishes though the sunsets are pretty special too. There are even bungalows to rent if you really love the place. Lipa Noi Beach, 077-914-500. Open 11am-11pm. www.nikkibeach.com/kohsamui AUGUST 2012 I W HERE THA ILA N D 11

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ESCAPES PHUKET | News Seafood Feast Starting on August 1, and with discounts of up to 20% at more than 60 different restaurants, the Phuket Seafood Fiesta 2012 promises a month-long celebration of the very best seafood on the island. Lobster Week (August 12-21) is a definite highlight with special discounts, while Seaside Seafood at Rawai Beach on August 12 and 13 offers you the chance to sample a range of classic seafood dishes prepared by the island’s leading chefs. You can even shop for the freshest catch at the fisherman’s market before having your selection cooked as you want it beachside. More info at 076-212213, www.phuketseafoodfiesta.com

Island News Grand openings, hot promotions and special events at Thailand’s top beach destinations.

PHUKET | Hotel Deal

Naka IslaNd

NEw TRAvEL APP THIS MoNTH Lifestyle Thailand App Visitors to the country who are bringing their smartphones on holiday might be interested to know about the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s latest mobile application for iPhone and Android phones. The Lifestyle Thailand App is basically a guidebook tailored to eight different lifestyles, and what you might want to get out of your visit, from chic to family to Thainess. It covers accommodation, restaurants and attractions and is updated regularly. Free on the iPhone App Store and Android Market.

Pool Privacy Sat on Naka Island, off Phuket’s northwest coast, The Naka Island, A Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, has just unveiled its new look. And the best news is it’s continuing its opening offer for its Royal Horizon Pool Villa until the end of this year.

The 1,600-sq-meter hilltop villa, the resort’s largest, features a 546-sq-meter swimming pool that overlooks Phang Nga Bay, wrapping around the villa’s two pavilions.

Until October 31, the villa is B63,000 per night for four guests, exclusive of taxes and surcharges, with breakfast and roundtrip speedboat transfers. After that, it rises to B90,000 per night until December 23. 32 Moo 5, Pa Klok, Thalang, Phuket, 076-371400. Naka.reservations@luxurycollection. com

SAMUI | New Opening Spa Solution The Intercontinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam has just added a holistic spa to ensure you properly unwind. Open daily 10am-9pm, Baan Thai Spa offers treatments ranging from B3,000 to B6,000, which include facials, half-day packages and ‘stress-busters’ such as the tension relief back massage. 295 Moo 3, Taling Ngam Beach, 07-742-9100, samui. intercontinental.com

BaaN THaI sPa

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ESCAPES PHUKET | Hotel Deal Supreme Privacy The luxury holiday trend in Phuket has already moved on from pool villas to your very own private villa, which offers even more privacy and space. The stay-sevennight-pay-five-night deal from villa Samakee evens out to B158,000 for a week-long holiday. There’s no seaview, but you do get five bedrooms, a private 20-meter swimming pool, home theater, library, and staff and a chef to fulfill your needs around the clock. If you fill the place, then it’s B4,515 per room per night, comparable to regular hotels.

If you’re traveling in an even larger group, and all your guests demand a seaview, then the six-bedroom villa Chan Grajang is perched above Surin Beach and is priced from B45,850 per night, through October 31 with a minimum stay of three nights. villa Samakee Layan Estate, near Bangtao Beach, bookings@villasamakeee. com, www.villasamakkee.com I villa Chan Grajang, Ayara Residential Community, near Surin Beach, bookings@villachankrajang.com, www. villachangrajang.com

features a 35-meter swim-up bar, hugged by sofas, daybeds and cabanas. While entry is free there is a minimum spend (prices not yet finalized) expected of every guest. This new arrival is just the latest in a beach club trend that is sweeping Phuket.

Find out more in Around Thailand, page 10.

Angsana Laguna Phuket, Bangtao Beach, 076-324-101. www.xanabeachclub.com

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PHUKET | New Opening Beach Party VIETNAM While grand renovations are currently MYANMAR ongoing to turn the decade-old Sheraton Grande Laguna into the brand new Chiang Mai Angsana Laguna Phuket, the wrappings have already come off the island’s largest beach club. Xana Beach Club, which is Chaiyaphum managed by the Singapore-based Attica Group, overlooks Bangtao beach and

Chiang Mai

THAILAND

Sa Kaeo

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ESCAPES HUA HIN & CHIANG MAI

Upcountry news

Dual Deal Holidaymakers planning to visit both Hua Hin and Chiang Mai should check out this special offer before making their booking: until the end of July, guests who book two nights at the Centara Grand Beach Resort Hua Hin will receive an additional night at the Khum Phaya Resort & Spa in Chiang Mai, applicable until the end of October. The package is from B14,550 on weekdays and B15,300 on weekends for a deluxe room, inclusive of service charges and taxes.

For more details, log onto www. centarahotelsresorts.com/package/ centaraholidays.asp

New hotels, special events and great promos at Thailand’s rural retreats.

Aristo ChiC resort

RATCHABURI

NEW RooM

Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa South Wing It’s been a while since its rebranding, but the Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa has just unveiled its all-new south wing rooms. Those who ever stayed at the old Marriott would be hard pushed to recognize the place. Refined furnishings with dark woods, silky textiles, marble tiles and glass panes engraved with ancient Thai alphabets are all highlights of the new-look rooms. Facilities at the resort include a river-view swimming pool in a lush garden, fitness center, steam and sauna rooms and free Wi-Fi. (See The Guide page 17 for details of their new Thai buffet). Charoen Nakhon Soi 61, Thonburi, 02-476-0022. bangkok-riverside.anantara.com

Country Chic We just discovered the relatively new Aristo Chic Resort in Ratchaburi’s Suan Phueng, which is a great weekend break destination from Bangkok. Nestled amid scenic mountains, all 10 two-story villas are in the Greek Santorini style, featuring pure white fresco facades and interiors, with minor splashes of vibrant color. The upper deck allows you to chill out beneath the stars, and free Wi-Fi is available throughout the resort. Rates are B3,000 on weekdays and B3,500 on weekends, including breakfast, through the end of September. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can also rent a tent for B500 a night (or bring your own, B200).

77 Moo 8 Baan Suan Maeo, Suan Phueng, Ratchaburi, 085-566-5533, 083-545-5790. www.aristo-resort. com

Ubon WAx Fest

UBoN RATCHATHANI | News Waxing Faith August 5 is the last chance to see the beautiful wax sculptures at the 7th International Wax Sculpture and Thai Candle Wax Carving Festival that has been held in Ubon Ratchathani town center since last month. This longrunning festival aims to conserve the age-old art of candle carving as a form of Buddhist devotion. According to tradition, Buddhists present these beautifullycarved candles to temples during the period of Lent, when monks are required to remain at a temple for three months and need additional light for their studies.

The festival also features a parade of floats and cars finely decorated by wax and candles on August 3. More information at TAT Ubon Ratchathani, 045-243-770. www.tatubon.org

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ESCAPES

hilton PAttAyA

CHIANG MAI | News Contemporary Lanna Bangkok’s famous contemporary art space H Gallery has just opened a Chiang Mai branch close to the Four Seasons Resort. It celebrates the opening with an exhibition of expressionist paintings called Untitled by Thai artist Mit Jai Inn, who looks to communicate his political views through the use of forms and colors. The gallery is open by appointment on Sunday-Monday only.

Mae Rim, Chiang Mai, 085-021-5508. www.hgallerybkk.com

BANGKoK & PATTAYA | News Free Transfer From now on, guests making reservations at sister hotels Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit and Sheraton Pattaya Resort during the same trip will enjoy a complimentary roundtrip transfer between the luxury hotel located right in the heart of Bangkok’s CBD, and the relaxing and peaceful five-star retreat overlooking the Gulf of Thailand on the outskirts of Pattaya. 250 Sukhumvit Rd., Bangkok, 02-649-8888 | 437 Phra Tamnak Rd., Pattaya, Chonburi, 038259-888. www.sheraton.com

BOONKUMNOUN

extra benefits at the Hilton Pattaya, such as a one-night stay with spa treatment, a one-night stay with dinner for two or a one-year spa membership. Pattaya Beach Rd., Chonburi, 038-253-000. pattaya.hilton.com

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BIG MoVE

Just in case you hadn’t heard, Thai AirAsia (www.airasia.com) has confirmed that it will be moving all its domestic and international flights currently operating from Suvarnabhumi Airport to Don Mueang Airport in the northern part of Bangkok come October. The flight schedule remains the same, so those who have booked flights for October and beyond should take special note of the change, especially if trying to catch connecting flights on other carriers that fly out of Suvarnabhumi. AirAsia will become the third commercial airline that operates out of Don Mueang, alongside Nok Air (www.nokair.com) and Orient Thai (www.flyorientthai.com), which moved there at the end of June.

PATTAYA | News Free Choice Hilton Pattaya’s Dine ‘n’ Fly promotion is back for a second year. Every B3,000 spent at its bars and restaurants (they just opened a very glamorous rooftop bar, Horizon) and spa, as well as in-room dining, gives you a chance of winning one of six travel packages featuring two air tickets and a two-night stay at either the Conrad Koh Samui, Hilton Kuala Lumpur or the Hilton Arc de Triomphe Paris. If the winners opt not to travel, they can simply enjoy VIETNAM MYANMAR

LAOS Chiang Mai Chiang Mai

Chaiyaphum

Ubon Ratchathani

THAILAND

Bangkok Pattaya

Bangkok Rayong

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Seasonal Scents

Celebrate the summer months with this range of fragrances for him and her.

1 Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Eau dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Issey Summer, B2,600/100ml 2 Burberry Body, B3,850/85ml 3 CK One Summer 2012, B2,700/100ml 4 Zegna Internso eau de toilette, B2,800/50ml 5 DKNY Be Delicious <3 Paris, B2,800/50ml 6 DKNY Be Delicious <3 London, B2,800/50ml 7 Coach Signature limited edition, B2,900/50ml All products available at leading department stores. Try 1/F, Zen, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-100-9999, BTS Chit Lom; and M/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000, BTS Siam.

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the guide DINING

Thai Market Brunch

Designed by Chumphol Jangprai, who was behind the success of the famous Blue Elephant restaurants, the Thai Market Sunday Brunch brings you over 100 classic Thai dishes to sample. Quality ingredients, ranging from imported Wagyu beef and Alaskan king crab to organic shrimps from Chantaburi and vegetables from the Royal Projects feature in traditional Thai recipes such as kai palo (stewed egg and pork soup), kaeng som (sweet and sour soup) and namprik (chilli paste, pictured). The brunch is B1,400 per person, inclusive of soft drinks, while an additional B400 gets you free-flow local beers and Thai wine.

They also have a childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s club. Every Sunday noon-3pm. Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa, Charoen Nakhon Rd. Soi 61, Thonburi, 02-476-0022 ext.

1416. Free shuttle boat from Central Pier, BTS Taksin. www.anantara.com

arts + CULtUrE .................................... 18-19 DINING ...................................................... 20-24 hEaLth + wELLNEss .................................25

shops + sErvICEs ................................26-27 NIGhtLIfE........................................................28

NavIGatE........................................................29 maps...........................................................29-33

Note that the reference at the end of the listings (WS24, ZD3 etc) apply to the coordinates on the individual maps on pages 29-33.

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Art+Culture BANGKOK

Art Exhibition HigHligHts

DISCOVERY NO.5 — The fifth installment of Thailand’s forgotten photography masters series focuses on Pornsak Sakdaenprai, whose work captured the golden age of luk thung (country) music in Thailand in the mid to late 1960s, a time when the rural population began to open up to modernization and Western influences and rushed to emulate their musical idols. Through Aug 27. Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 7 Soi Pan, Silom Rd., 02-234-6700.

BTS Chong Nonsi. Open Tue-Sun 11am-7pm. www.kathmandu-bkk.com XI11

THE DARK SIDE Of STEPHff — French cartoonist Stephane Peray, aka Stephff, has been creating political cartoons for two decades for local English language newspaper The Nation. This exhibition sees him throw off the self-imposed shackles of traditional media to release his darker side through 20 graffiti drawings and paintings that express his personal views on Thai politics. Through Aug 25. Thavibu Gallery, Silom Galleria, 3/F, Suite 308, 919/1 Silom Rd., 02-266-5454. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open Tue-Sat 11am-7pm, Sun noon-6pm. www.thavibu.com XI10

SCAVENGERS — Photographer Steve Pace captured the suffering of many Cambodians aiming to open the eyes of audiences to the conditions in which they are made to live.

Specifically he focuses on those who live and work around Shung Meanchey Municipal dumps on the outskirts of Phnom Penh and how they have had to adapt to their harsh surroundings just to survive. Through Aug 31.

Eat Me, Convent Rd, Silom. 81-293-6326. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sun 3pm-1am. www. eatmerestaurant.com XG11

Art GALLEriES 100 TONSON GALLERY — With a prime location and well-designed space, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-684-1527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20

SERINDIA GALLERY — Run by a publishing company, this gallery focuses on the art and culture of Asia. OP Garden, Unit 31013201, 4-6 Soi Charoen Krung 36, 02-2386410. Open Tue-Sun 11am-8pm. www. serindiagallery.com XJ10

BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTER (BACC) — The city’s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art-related shops in its impressive 11-story structure. 939 Rama I Rd., Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th YM16 GOSSIP GALLERY — This multifaceted space showcases contemporary pieces from both local and international artists. 3/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-237-5568. BTS Surasak. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. gossipgallerybkk72.com XI10 NATIONAL GALLERY — Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd., 02-281-2224, 02-282-2639-40. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www.national-gallery. go.th WQ27 THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes.

101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-2815360/1. Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. www. queengallery.org WS27

THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC) — Home to a large art library, and host to temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-9pm. www.tcdc.or.th ZC4

MUSEUMS

SERINDIA GALLERY

NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous property houses some of the most extraordinary architecture, art and antiques in the country. Na Phrathat Rd., 02-215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm.

B50. www.nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th WQ27

SILOM GALLERIA — This large mall hosts a range of modern Asian art under one roof. Highlight galleries include: Tang Contemporary Art, which covers modern Chinese art, and Thavibu Gallery, which features works by Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists. 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-266-5454. BTS Surasak. The mall is open daily 10am-8pm, though some galleries have different opening times. XI10 SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — More of a shop than a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai artworks. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02254-6040. Open daily 9am-8pm. www. sombatpermpoongallery.com XL21

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk, Jim Thompson, is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. B100. www. jimthompsonhouse.com YM15

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Art+Culture MUSEUM SIAM — The old Ministry of Commerce is now an innovative, technologydriven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-225-2777.

Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. B300. www. museumsiam.com WQ23

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pArk lIfE Three central parks to escape the chaos of the city.

attractions GrAnd pAlAcE — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. Free tours in English available at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm.

B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25 WAt ArUn (tEMplE of dAWn) — On the river’s edge is the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmer-style tower), decorated with millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means “morning” and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arun Amarin Rd. Wat Arun Pier. Wp22 WAt trAIMIt WIttAyArAM — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm.

lumpini park BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom One of the largest parks in the city and the one boasting the most convenient location, Lumpini is a wonderful green oasis. The 142-acre space is home to a big lake which you can explore by row boat, numerous children’s playgrounds, a public library, an outdoor gym and tennis courts. It’s hugely popular with fitness fanatics who come in the relative cool of the early morning and late afternoon to do aerobics, practice tai chi, and use the 2.5 km jogging track. Keep an eye out for the resident population of monitor lizards.

Suan rod fai BTS Mo Chit, MRT Kamphaeng Phet If you’re heading to the famous Chatuchak Market from BTS Mo Chit then chances are you’ll walk through the pleasant Chatuchak Park with its lake and manicured lawns. However, many miss the much larger 60-acre Suan Rod Fai just next door. Formerly a golf course, it’s now a sprawling green space that’s home to a butterfly centre, numerous lakes and the Buddhadasa Indapanno Archives (www.bia.or.th) meditation center. Hire a bike (B20-30) and explore the leafy grounds.

Benjasiri park BTS Phrom Phong Situated right next door to Emporium, it’s a refreshing escape from the bustle of Sukhumvit.

Having recently received an upgrade there are some great playgrounds, a swimming pool, an exercise circuit, not to mention the jogging track, basketball/takraw courts and the skateboard mini ramps, as well as the calming influence of the central lake surrounded by intriguing pieces of art. It gets wonderfully busy too with people making full use of the facilities.

WAt phrA kAEo (tEMplE of thE EMErAld BUddhA) — Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace, this important religious site is home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. Also, don’t miss the exquisite mural wall paintings. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm.

B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25 SIAM ocEAn World — Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species.

Highlights include the underwater tunnel, penguin enclosure and the glass bottom boat tour. Basement, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.,02-687-2000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm. B900 for adults, B700 for children. YM17

siam ocean world

SUAn pAkkAd pAlAcE — This former royal household features eight Thai-style houses that showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period. 02-354 Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-2461775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www.suanpakkad.com august 2012 I W HERE TH a ila n d 19

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dining BANGKOK Little Beast

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Owned by a group of best friends who knew each other in New York, Little Beast had crowds flocking to it before it officially opened. With a chef who trained at the highly acclaimed Culinary Institute of America, they are promising a stylish gastro bar serving French and New American cuisine and creative cocktails in a 1920s-inspired space featuring touches of industrial details.

Upstairs is the open kitchen (and one low table outdoors if you want to get some air). New York-inspired dishes include the homemade a charcuterie plate (pork rillete, head cheese terrine and pork and veal) or the jerk chicken hearts with pineapple salsa embracing nose-to-tail eating. Those with more delicate stomachs can opt for the popular snap peas with chicken skin salad and ginger vinaigrette or the squid linguini with butter, poached shrimps, clams and cauliflower coulis. Try their creative cocktails like the Smokey Morning (Havana Club gold rum, blueberry, lemon, apple dash, buttered maple water and maple smoke). 44/9-10, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2670. Open Tue-Sun 5:30pm-1am. ZB5

DOWNTOWN Café Claire — French. $$$$ Set in the luxurious Oriental Residence on Wittayu, Café Claire offers an elevated diner concept that works for any time of the day, decked out with classy French decor.

It’s the first place in Thailand that officially serves TWG Tea with their high tea. Oriental Residence, 110 Wireless Rd., 02-125-9000. YN20 CeladoN — Thai. $$$$ Surrounded by lotus ponds, Celadon’s Thai pavilion contains elegant candlelit interiors that help accentuate the refined set menus, such as the seven-course Bai Horapa set.

13/3 South Sathorn Rd., 02-344-8888. Open daily noon-3pm, 6:30-11pm. www.sukhothai.com driNkiNg Tea, eaTiNg riCe — Japanese. $$$$ Stylishly simple in design, this restaurant allows the food to take center stage. Choose from top-quality sushi, sashimi, teppanyaki and kaiseki options, and wash it down with their extensive sake collection. 3/F, The Conrad Hotel, 87 Witthayu Rd., 02-690-9999. BTS Phloen Chit.

Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm. YN21 diNe iN The dark — International. $$$ Choose between meat, seafood or vegetarian—no other details—and then step into complete darkness where visually-impaired staff serve as your personal guides and waiters. The three-course set menu is B750-B850 with 10% of profits donated to foundations for the visually-impaired. 2/F, The

Ascott Sathorn, 02-676-6676. Open daily 7:3011:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi. Xh13

PiCk d’SeNS — French. $$$$ The Frenchimported eatery by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers has all the oomph one might expect. The dimly-lit dining room is ultra-chic, and the food is bold and exciting. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000 ext. 2499. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:3010pm. Xf10

erawaN Tea rooM — Thai. $$$$ With a classy oriental décor, five-star service and a fine tea selection, Erawan Tea Room also impresses with its authentic Thai dishes and monthly-themed menus. 2/F, Erawan Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02254-1234. Open daily 10am-10pm. YN18

Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$

Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax. d’seNs

eaT Me — International. $$$$ The décor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic.

The kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng.

Open daily 3pm-1am. Xg11

Area guide downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 Upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

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dining giaNNi riSToraNTe — Italian. $$$$ “Gianni’s,” as it’s referred to by most, has earned its following with consistently outstanding food, an elegant atmosphere and smooth service. 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-652-2922. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm. YM20

PiCk gaggaN — Indian. $$$$ After a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and some wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02-652-1700. BTS Chit Lom. 6pmmidnight. Yo19

reflexioNS — French. $$$$ Elegant but edgy, with its raw black-and-white photographs of Bangkok, Reflexions is authentic French food without the stuffiness. Chef Thibault Chiumenti cooks with an eye for tradition and bold flavors. 3/F, Plaza Athénée, 61 Witthayu Rd., 02-650-8800. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm. YN21 rUeN Urai — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house, decorated in a blend of contemporary furniture and rare Thai crafts, it offers a polished menu of solid recipes. Rose Hotel, 188, Surawong Rd., 02266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. Xf8 SCarleTT — French. $$$-$$$$ Perched on the top of Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, Scarlett focuses on excellent selections of wines, classic French dishes and a verdant outdoor terrace, which allows you to enjoy your Chardonnay alfresco while enjoying the impressive views. Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 02-238-1991. BTS Chong Nonsi.

Open daily 6pm-1am.

Expert Picks

GAGGAN

Chawadee Nualkhair, author of Bangkok’s Top 50 Street Food Stalls, recommends her current street food picks in Bangkok.

PiCk iSSaYa SiaMeSe ClUB — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef Ian Kittichai returns to his home country with this restaurant, set in a delightful wooden mansion and featuring inventive twists on classic Thai recipes. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., Sathorn Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

JiM ThoMPSoN Bar & reSTaUraNT — Thai. $$$ Located in the former home of Siamese silk expert Jim Thompson, the open-air restaurant by a small lotus pond and its air-con dining room have been serving up authentic Thai food and simple Western dishes for years. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, 02-612-3601. www.jimthompson. com. Open daily 9am-5pm, 7-11pm. YM15 la MoNiTa TaqUeria — Mexican. $$ Handsdown the best place for a quesadilla or fish taco.

The décor and service aren’t much, but you won’t care after your third Reposado Margarita.

Mahatun Plaza, 888/26 Phloenchit Rd., 02-6509581. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am10pm. YM21

PiCk NahM — Thai. $$$$ Former holder of a Michelin star, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open daily noon-2pm, 7-11pm. Xg13

PiCk NiU’S — Italian. $$$$ Muted tones, crisp white tablecloths and large windows let the inventive and delicious Italian food take center stage. Niu’s also has an extensive wine list and often hosts top-name jazz acts downstairs. Baan Silom, 661 Silom Rd., 02-266-5333. Open daily 5pm-1am. Xi10 PoModoro — Italian. $$$$ This venue focuses on classic dishes with a Mediterranean leaning. G/F, CRC Tower, All Season Place, 87/2 Witthayu Rd., 02-685-3930/1. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. YN21

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Bamee Slow

Entrance to Ekkamai Soi 19, open after 8pm to about 3am.

It’s hands down my favorite bamee kai (egg noodles) place in the city. I’ve eaten it many times, and although the bamee is nice and soft they never overcook the egg so that it’s still runny when you open it. The broth is great, a toxic orange color and incredibly flavorful. I will never get sick of this dish.

Nai Mong hoy Tod

539 Soi Prapachai, open 11am-9:30pm unless there are no oysters in the market.

They make the best “grob grob” hoy tod in the city, crispy underneath with sweet, barely cooked oysters on top.

Somsong Pochana

Soi Wat Sangwach, open Mon-Sat 9:30am4pm.

I come here all the time. Not only do they make great guaythiew Sukhothai (pork with rice noodles), which is hard to find, they also make great kanom jeen sao nam (soft rice noodles with shrimp, pineapple, coconut milk, raw garlic and chilies), which is also hard to find. If you get there early, you might also be able to sample the dessert, usually khao fang, a sort of ricebased green jelly in coconut milk. And yes, this is hard to find as well.

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dining PiCk Sra BUa — Thai. $$$$ The sister of Michelin-starred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen offers up Thai food with a contemporary, almost molecular, twist in a soaring palace dotted with rice fields.

Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. BTS Siam. Open daily noon-11pm.

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ShiNTaro — Japanese. $$$ Located in a corner of the high-end hotel, this cozy restaurant draws the glam crowd. The food is equally trendy, with dishes like sushi-pizza and California rolls.

G/F, Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-251-6127. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5-10:30pm. YN18 SoMTaM der — Thai. $$-$$$ Yards from the bustle of Silom Rd., this new spot brings typical street food into a more upmarket setting. The menu has a focus on somtam, a spicy Thai papaya salad, and other classic Northeastern dishes. Their martinis are also a highlight. 5/5 Saladaeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am-10pm. Xf11 TaliNg PliNg—Thai. $$-$$$ This old favorite sees Bangkokians rub shoulders with tourists to enjoy classic Thai dishes and some lesser known options in a charming old house. 60 Soi Pan, Silom Rd., 02-234-4872. BTS Chong Nonsi.

Open daily 11am-10pm. Xi11

PiCk ZUMa — Japanese. $$$$ Their generous salads mix avocado and fresh sushi. The bar is made from a single, monumental slab of stone and the garden is air conditioned. It’s all wonderfully glamorous. G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-636-0002. Open Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm. YN18

LOWer SukhumviT 11 gallerY — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34, Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. ZB1 aBove eleveN — Fusion. $-$$ The twist of this rooftop bar and restaurant, apart from a great city view, is a concept that focuses on Nikkei cuisine: a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. 32/F Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-9300. www.aboveeleven.com Za1

ABOve eleveN

kUPPa — International. $$$ Best-known as a lunch venue, Kuppa’s reliable menu of pastas, salads, desserts and great coffee has changed little over the years. Throw in comfy couches and floor-toceiling windows, and you’ve got one chill spot. 39 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-663-0495, 02-663-8806.

Open daily 10am-10:30pm. Zd3

Ma dU Zi reSTaUraNT BY YUYai — Japanese. $$$ With a stint at a Joel Robuchon restaurant in Tokyo, Japanese Chef Yuya Okuda’s food is very recognizably French, only with very light, very subtle exotic touches. Maduzi Hotel, 9/1 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-615-6400. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm. Zd3 roSaBieNg — Thai. $-$$ This two-story wooden house-turned-restaurant is a great place for those seeking an introduction to Thai food, thanks to its broad menu of properly executed dishes. 3 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-253-5868. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Sat 11am-11pm. ZB1

rUeN Mallika – Thai. $$$ Set in a small sub-soi off from Sukhumvit 22, the nicely-decorated two-story restaurant is nestled in a peaceful garden. The huge menu of Thai classics utilize homegrown vegetables and herbs and don’t hold back on the chili. Soi Sainamthip 3, Sukhumvit Soi 22, open daily 11am-11pm. www. ruenmallika.com

PiCk Seafood Bar — Seafood. $$$ Owned by an oyster importer, this restaurant features 20 types of oysters and a range of perfectly grilled fish dishes cooked with a modern American approach.

Somerset Lake Place, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02663-8863, Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun noon-3pm, 6-10pm. BTS Asok. Zd3

upper SukhumviT BaCCo — Italian. $$$ This relaxed, slightly rustic eatery packs in the diners nightly, thanks to its extensive menu of authentic regional specialties.

35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-662-4538. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-midnight.

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PiCk Bo.laN — Thai. $$$ Chefs Bo and Dylan offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a charming house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes to reflect the seasons. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962. Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pmmidnight. Zd5

PiCk iSao — Japanese. $$$-$$$$ Despite the standard izakaya facade, Isao offers something different—Japanese cuisine with distinctly American twists, thanks to the chef’s apprenticeship at the Green Tea sushi bar in Chicago. 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645/6.

Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, SatSun 11am-10pm. ZC4 iNdUS — Indian. $$$ An ambient spot with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual north Indian favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. Ze5 NaPa oN 26— International. $$$$ Inspired by the long list of primarily Napa Valley wines served here, the kitchen presents full-flavored dishes that stand out for their perfectly cooked meats and seafood. The food is fairly light and downto-earth, the décor is masculine and heavy on the wood. 2/F, Nihonmachi (behind K-Village), Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-2622. Open Tue-Fri 4-11:30pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm.

Near eqUal — Thai. $$-$$$ A new location for a long-term favorite in a charming house down a beautifully leafy street. Upstairs the wood floors and antique pieces make for a delightful spot to enjoy well-balanced Thai dishes; then head downstairs to browse the selection of Thai furniture and handicrafts on sale. 22/2 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-258-1565 ZC5

ZumA

dining deals Sizzling Sundays The award-wining contemporary Japanese eatery Zuma has just introduced the Sunday Chill series of music events, featuring a lineup of international and local DJ acts, every Sunday evening from 8pm onwards through early August. Even if you’re not into the club scene, you might be interested in the ongoing daily Nagomi Time Happy Hour (2-6pm) which lets you enjoy a glass of Prosecco for B100 or five ice-chilled Asahi beer for B380. Then after 9pm, standard cocktails are B100 a glass. 1/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02252-4707. BTS Ratchadamri.

The World is Your Oyster From now until August 15, you can spend your Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings getting your fill of imported oysters from France and the United States as part of the World Oyster Festival Dinner Buffet (B1199) at the glass house. Expect everything from Oyster Kilpatrick to Oyster with Thai spicy sauce and Oyster Florentine with spinach. The accompanying international buffet features salads, choice meat cuts and desserts. Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Bangkok, 33/1 South Sathorn Rd., 02-210-8100.

Impeccable Indian rang Mahal, one of Bangkok’s leading Indian restaurants, has just introduced a new eightcourse “modern degust menu,” featuring modern techniques applied to classic northern Indian dishes like tandoori prawns, Goan soup and masala crusted scallops. Dishes are paired with selected wines. B3,700 net per person, and advanced reservations are required. Rembrandt Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 18, 02-261-7100.

Treats for Mom To celebrate Thailand’s Mother’s Day on August 12, Pullman Bangkok King Power offers all you mums the chance to enjoy its buffet for free at the Cuisine Unplugged. It’s priced at B1,330 net per person during 11:30am-3pm, or B1,430 net during 6:30-10:30pm. Rangnam Rd., 02-680-9999. BTS Victory Monument.

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l’aPParT — French. $$$-$$$$ Imagine a grand Parisian apartment, which means parquet floors, rich burgundy wallpaper and lots of marble. The food is French cuisine with Thai touches. There’s also a full bar but a particular focus on Champagne cocktails. 32/F Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sois 13 and 15), 02-1269999. Open daily 5pm-midnight. www.sofitel. com. ZB2

PiCk The loCal — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef and co-owner Can Markawat keeps the focus on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find recipes.

They’re all served in a beautiful hundred-yearold house. There are cooking lessons every Wednesday, too. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm Thai lao Yeh — Thai $$$ Located in a purposebuilt colonial-style boutique hotel, the décor blends Thai elements with a touch of 1920s Shanghai. But the food is resolutely local, featuring classic and authentic Northern Thai, Northeastern Thai and Laotian dishes that stay true to traditional flavors, which means no fusion, no added sugar, and no holding back on the heat. 14/29, Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-259-2871-3. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 11am-2pm. ZC5

`Courtesy of room magazine

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Smith

Smith is the new fine dining venue by the folks behind the super popular and extremely hip gastro bar and night spot Hyde & Seek. This, their latest venture, is set in a former furniture warehouse that has been decked out in an elegant industrial theme and embraces their dining concept with walls lined with paintings of different cuts of meat, as well as some butcher’s tools. Chef Peter Pitakwong focuses on two things: locally-sourced ingredients and nose-to-tail cooking, a philosophy that involves utilizing every part of the animal. Meat is the main event here, and the menu is heavily dependent on what ingredients or cuts can be sourced from farmers, from whole lamb to veal heart or calf’s tongue. Slow-roasted lamb ribs with coffee spice rub, celery puree and mint jelly and tuna with braised pig’s tail and foie gras torchon with foraged vegetables are definitely among the dishes to try. 1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-261-0515/6. Open Tue-Sun 6pmmidnight. ZC5

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dining ThONGLOr/ekkAmAi The garreTT — American/International. $$$ A cross between an American speakeasy and a Victorian tearoom, this gastropub boasts an alfresco terrace and pulls in a sophisticated crowd with its elevated pub grub and decadent desserts. 6/F Mini Showroom, 99/99 Ekkamai Soi 7, 02-711-6999

PiCk PhUkeT TowN — Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional Southern-style dishes like kanom chine namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that has plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches.

Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm. ZC6 4 garCoNS — French. $$$ Cooked by a Thai doctor, this classic French fare is served in a warm and elegant atmosphere. 1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-713-9547. Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm. ZB6 BoNJoUr — French. $$$$ Fine French dishes served in a bourgeois villa that boasts velvet lounge chairs and a small tropical garden. 1217/2 Sukhumvit Soi 59, 02-714-2112. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-1am. ZC6

SUrfaCe — French. $$$ Their outdoor vibe, thanks to the conservatory style interior and the daybeds set out among their vegetable garden, matches the overall farm-to-table concept of Surface: classic French dishes from produce that they largely grow themselves. 107 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-258-2858/7597. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6-11pm, Sat-Sun 10am-2pm. ZB6

riverSiDe

PiCk xUaN Mai — Vietnamese. $$$ Probably

Mei JiaNg — Chinese. $$$$ This elegant establishment overlooking the Chao Phraya River offers one of the best dim sum experiences in town. The food is authentic Cantonese, while the service is knowledgeable and courteous. The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-861-2888. BTS Saphan Taksin. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm.

the best Vietnamese restaurant in Bangkok, this is where former beauty queen-then-FBI agent chef Meyung Robson sources the best ingredients, often direct from Vietnam, and cooks them perfectly from traditional recipes.

Try the bahn mo thit (Vietnamese sandwich) and cha ca Hanoi (grilled cat fish). 351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-185-2619. Open TueSun 11am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 11:30ammidnight; Sun 11:30am-10pm. Za6

PiCk waTer liBrarY — International. $$$$ A restaurant that serves a maximum of ten diners per night, with a 12-course set menu using the very best ingredients that starts at 7.30pm on the dot prepared in front of you by an army of chefs. It’s very sophisticated, very sexy and yes, it’s expensive, but also very memorable. Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, 02-714-9292/-3. Open MonSat 6pm-1am. ZB64

harveY — American, International. $$$$ A very popular spot with the town’s movers and shakers, the food encompasses modern interpretations of American, French and Italian cuisine. 129 Thonglor Soi 9, 02-712-9911. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-11pm. ZB6 roaST— Thai/American. $$$ Roast combines artisanal coffee-making with a slightly elevated brunch and dinner concept, thanks to a menu of slightly fancified comfort food. 2/F, Seenspace, Thong Lor Soi 13. Open Mon-Fri 10am-11pm; Sat 9am-11pm; Sun 9am-10pm. khUN ChUrN — Thai/Vegetarian. $-$$ This family-run eatery, tucked away in the relatively quiet Bangkok Mediplex, has a classy-yet-casual atmosphere and serves up down-to-earth yet delicious meat-free Thai meals. G/F, Bangkok Mediplex Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 42, 02-713-6599.

Open daily 10am-8pm. Zd7

WAter liBrAry

SoUl food MahaNakorN — Thai. $$-$$$ Soul Food dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails, as well as a brief menu of well executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect on the hip crowd and the place is packed most nights. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-midnight. ZC6

The deCk — Thai/International. $$$ Book in advance for one of the best spots, out on the second floor terrace, and enjoy the amazing view of Wat Arun across the river. The wellexecuted menu covers Thai and European dishes. 36-38 Soi Pratu Nokyung, Maharat Rd., 02-221-9158. Open Mon-Thu 7am-10pm, FriSun 7am-11pm. Wq23 le NorMaNdie — French. $$$$ The Mandarin Oriental’s showcase restaurant has set the standard for service and cuisine for years.

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm; daily 7-10:30pm. XJ11 SUPaTra riverSide — Thai. $$$$ Situated on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River, the view of the Grand Palace from the terrace of this Thai house is amazing. There’s regular cultural performances and a range of classic Thai dishes.

Free boat transfer from Maharaj Pier. 266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arunamarin Rd., 02-411-0305.

Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm. ZP26

Burger Bars

Diners and cafes dedicated to the humble burger .

25 degrees

KhuN churN

veNiCe vaNiChe — Thai. $$$ Situated meters from the Grand Palace, this restaurant offers some great views, a pleasant breezy terrace on the second floor and a large menu of classic Thai dishes. 1/12 Soi Maharaj, Maharaj Rd., 02222-8082. Open daily 11am-midnight. ZP26

US chain 25 Degrees is the latest arrival to Bangkok’s burger scene. The décor is distinctly upscale diner, while the menu is kind of DIY, with a ‘build your own’ option that lets you pick from an impressive list of sauces, cheeses and toppings.

They also have a happy hour deal between 3-6pm with buyone-get-one-free on appetizers, beers and cocktails. G/F, Pullman G Hotel, 188 Silom Rd. 02-238-1991. Open daily 24 hours. BTS Chong Nonsi.

escapade Burgers & Shakes

This cute little shophouse situated right opposite Phra Sumen Fort on the charming Phra Atit Road is part burger bar and part cocktail joint. The cocktails are inventive, the shakes are divine and there’s a brief but satisfying choice of burgers from the Angus beef burger (also available in pork) to the Quarter Cow (two beef patties, two slices of cheddar cheese with truffle sauce). 112 Phra Athit Rd., 081-406-3773. Open Tue-Sun 12pm-midnight.

The firehouse

With a quirky décor that features the owner’s impressive collection of firefighting paraphernalia from around the world this relaxed eatery has quickly become a favorite among Bangkok’s burger aficionados. They have a host of burgers on offers from sliders (mini burgers) to the newly launched Black Angus Premium Burger and Champion Chili Burger. 3/26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3643. Open daily 11:30-3am

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SPA Apex Medi SpA — Renowned beauty clinic APEX Profound Beauty has gone upscale with this total rejuvenating spa retreat set in downtown Thong Lor. The spa features in-patient rooms, treatment suites, a restaurant and swimming pool. Programs range from three-hour spa treatments to sevenday weight-loss packages. 208/1-3, Thonglor Soi 8, 02-713-8331-2. Open daily 8:30am-8:30pm.

ZC6

i.SAWAN — With its Tony Chi design, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club and its residential cottages and treatment bungalows is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a fitness club, tennis and squash courts and a 25-meter pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com YN18 HeALTH LANd — Health Land has built its sizeable reputation on a blend of affordable prices and expert masseuses. There are branches throughout town. 120 North Sathorn Rd. , 02-637-8883.

BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 9am-11pm. More branches: www.healthlandspa.com XG13 LeT’S ReLAx — With branches in tourist destinations around Thailand, and a wide variety of packages and trained masseuses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-6626935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight. More branches: www.letsrelaxspa.com ZB3

eLeMiS SpA — The Elemis Spa is the first in SE Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the ancient Arabian sauna in the Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777.

BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am-10pm. www. stregis.com/bangkok YN18

S MediCAL SpA — Founded by a renowned local anti-aging physician, this award-winning spa creates beauty from within, with a selection of integrated wellness programs. 2/2 Bhakdi Bldg., Wireless Rd., 02-253-1010. BTS Ploenchit. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.smedspa.com YL20 SpA BOTANiCA — Surrounded by the lush gardens of the Sukothai Hotel, Spa Botanica is an urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best massage options. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd, 02-23448900. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.sukhothai. com XG13

MULBeRRY SpA — Set in a 60s-style residential compound, Mulberry Spa offers all the usual selection of treatments amid a classy-yet-cozy ambiance. 132 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1888.

MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 9am-11pm. www. mulberryspa.com ZB3

THANN SANCTUARY SpA — THANN Sanctuary offers a variety of treatments based on their world class spa products within a tranquil space bathed in warm grey and soothing lights. 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.thann.info

THe ORieNTAL SpA — As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.mandarinoriental.com/ bangkok/spa XJ11

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URBAN ReTReAT — Urban Retreat’s branches offer relaxing havens from the city in the middle of town. 31/10 Soi Phromjai, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-204-2008/9. Open daily 10am-10pm. More branches: www.urbanretreatspa.net

pANpURi ORGANiC SpA — Hidden behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of the luxury spa.

The small-but-beautiful space welcomes you with black stone and gold mosaics and a host of treatments using exclusive products. Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1199. Open daily 10-8pm. www.panpuri.com IM18

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NEW >

Le Spa with L’Occitane

Hidden away on the 9th floor of the newlyopened Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, Thailand’s first Le Spa with L’Occitane boasts a contemporary Thai style combined with an elegant French touch. The 414-sq-meter space is divided into several zones, from a comfortable lounge to the various treatment suites, which promise you a private pampering experience. Upon arrival, guests get to choose their room’s aroma and music, before enjoying one of the relaxing treatments—most of which are based on L’Occitane products. Try one of the three signature treatments: Immortelle Secret to Brightness, Golden Siamese Massage, and Four Teas Ceremony, while we would also recommend the Absolute Desktop that combines Thai massage and natural herbs to release deep tension caused by working on a computer or carrying heavy objects (like suitcases). Treatments are B500-17,300.

9/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. between Soi 13-15, 02-126-9999. BTS Nana.

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ShopS+ServiceS BANGKOK

LOuis VuittON siAm PArAGON

Louis vuitton Siam paragon

French brand Louis Vuitton opened its first Bangkok branch at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel back in 1985; last month saw them add a fourth store, in Siam Paragon, to meet the ever-growing demand for their high end couture products. With a striking 30-meter shop front, this new branch is particularly notable for being the only store in Thailand to carry the new dotty collection by Japanese artist Yayoi Kusuma. There’s also after-sales service on-site if you ever have an issue with your LV clutch. M/F, 991 Rama 1 Rd. 02664-7272. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.louisvuitton.com

Downtown AmArin PlAzA — The mall’s Greco-Roman façade actually hides some unexpected gems.

ID1 on the first floor holds an interesting collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs.

496-502 Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-4704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com Ym18 CentrAl Chidlom — The closest thing Bangkok has to Harrods, Central Chidlom first opened in 1973 and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. It’s packed with leading brands, like Bottega Venetta, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the impressive Food Hall on the ground floor and the views from the international food court, up on the seventh. 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th Ym19 CentrAlWorld — Southeast Asia’s largest lifestyle shopping complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000-sq-meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for top brands like Topshop, Gap and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites like Singha Life and Disaya.

Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www. centralworld.co.th Ym18 erAWAn BAngkok — This mini-mall might look petite, but its three floors offer some high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including Yohji Yamamoto, Dior Homme and Lanvin. 494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com Ym18

gAysorn — Thailand’s leading high-end mall is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Celine) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1149.

BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com Ym18 mBk Center — Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and at bargain prices. As a result, the confusing chaos of MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good. Still it’s fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the 6th floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www.mbk-center.co.th Ym16

siAm disCovery Center — The sister mall of Siam Center just celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussaud’s wax museum. It also remains the place to come for Thai furniture brands. Rama 1 Rd., 02-6581000. BTS Siam. www.siamdiscoverycenter. co.th Ym16

PlAtinum FAshion mAll — Platinum is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashionrelated from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even a single item is very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. BTS Ratchathewi. www. platinumfashionmall.com Yk18 siAm PArAgon — With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like Mango and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World, Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a cinema. As well as lots of restaurants, there’s also a food court in the basement. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000.

BTS Siam. www.siamparagon.co.th Ym17

siAm discOVery ceNter

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ShopS+ServiceS Sukhumvit

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The emporium — Set in the heart of the city’s upscale residential area (home to Bangkok’s largest Japanese community), The Emporium offers luxury shopping without the crowds, thanks to its tenant portfolio, which includes brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Prada, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal, Thann and Jim Thompson. There are also lots of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative Design Center. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www. emporiumthailand.com ZC4

ChaTuChak markeT — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is one of the world’s largest weekend markets. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections, roughly categorized by the products on offer. You can literally spend the weekend here amid the rabbit warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: Books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 10-24 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home-decor items.

Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.chatuchak.org

Terminal 21

Terminal 21 — One of Bangkok’s newest shopping complexes boasts an airport terminal-cum-international destinations theme. As you travel through the nine floors you can stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the higher floors offer a host of intriguing boutiques by Thai designers. There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21.co.th ZB3

raTChaDa nighT markeT — Apart from vintage cars, motorbikes, bicycles and parts, you’ll find old and new home décor items, secondhand books, fashion apparel, handcrafted products and even some lethal cocktails at the 200-plus stalls.

Ratchadapisek Rd. MRT Ladprao. Open Sat, 7pm-1am.

TalaT roD Fai — This alfresco night bazaar has quickly become the new hot spot for vintage finds, thanks to the mix of retro fashion, décor and toys for sale and because of the laidback ambience at the ad hoc bars and cafés.

Kamphaeng Phet Rd. MRT Kamphaeng Phet.

Open Sat-Sun, 4pm-1am

ElSEwhErE CrysTal Design CenTer — Designer chairs, platinum faucets, leather sofas and a lot more home décor products are the main draw for CDC Phase 1, while Phase 2 is filled with restaurants and bars, cute cafés, fashion boutiques and home décor stores. It’s not the easiest place to get to, though: we recommend a taxi from MRT Lad Phrao. 1420/1 Praditmanutham Rd., Klongchan, 02-1015999. www.crystaldesigncenter.com

TalaT rod fai

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almeTa

Top silk shops almeta Manufacturing its own silk, Almeta is known for its high quality and the sheer range of its Thai fabrics, with over 1000 different colors as well as multiple different yarn types and weights.

You can buy many different silk products such as cushions and scarves and even furniture, making it a perfect spot for gifts. They have no minimum quantity for orders and can provide woven-to-order fabrics. 20/3 Sukhumvit Soi 23. 02-204-1413. BTS Asok. Open 10am-6pm. www.almeta.com Jim Thompson American-born Jim Thompson established the Thai Silk Company Limited in 1948. Despite his mysterious disappearance in 1967, the company’s reputation has continued to grow globally. Numerous stores offer a huge choice of colors, patterns and products from sophisticated skirts to cute toy elephants. 9 Surawong Rd., 02-632-8100. BTS Sala Daeng. Retail shop and restaurant open 9am-9pm, home furnishing open 9am-7pm. www.jimthompson.com anita silk Almost 50 years old, Anita Silk was one of the first silk stores in Bangkok and is still producing hand-woven fabric. They pride themselves on their eye for design and have a full home range including bedding, curtains, dining sets and accessories. 432 4/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd. 02-129-4536. BTS Siam. Open 11am-8pm. www.anitasilk.com

op plaCe — Situated in a beautiful neoclassical-style building close to the river, this gorgeous luxury mall oozes charm from the sweeping wooden staircase to the antique lift. The plushly-carpeted halls are home to a host of high-end boutiques offering unique and rare antiques and artifacts from across Southeast Asia, hand crafted jewellery, bespoke tailors and fine art. The Ashwood Gallery that occupies the whole third floor is home to some particularly striking pieces. There’s also a free shuttle service to the neighboring OP Garden, which houses an art gallery, restaurants and high-end boutiques. 30/1 Soi 38, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-266-0186.

Open daily 10:30am-7pm. XJ11

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nightlife BANGKOK

Manhattan Bar

JW Marriott’s new lobby bar has been created by the same people behind the hotel’s successful New York Steak House. The opulent gentleman’s club-style décor is accentuated by a drinks list that focuses on variations of the Martini. The interior is heavy on gravitas—dark woods and grey walls. The bar offers variations like The House Martini (Gordon’s Gin, Bacardi white rum, red wine and orange bitter) and the Absolut Chili Chocolat Martini (Smirnoff vodka, dry vermouth, crème de cacao and chilli). You can order from the Steak House menu and there are also regular mixology classes if you want to learn how to mix your own. 2/F, JW Marriott Bangkok, 4 Sukhumvit Soi 2. 02-656-7700 ext.4230. Open daily 6pm-1am. jwmarriottbangkokhotel.com

Downtown Bed SuppercluB — Bangkok’s leading club, with a space-age interior, is divided into two sides—the restaurant, which offers creative food and cutting-edge performances; and the club, where beautiful people dance to everything from house to drum n’ bass. Note it will temporarily close for part of August for renovation work so check first. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. Open daily 7pm-2am. www.bedsupperclub.com ZA1 The SpeAkeASy — The two-story space takes you back to the jazz age of the roaring 1920s with chic decor featuring dark woods and mysterious hues. A balcony on level 24 lets you take in 180-degree views of Bangkok’s central district, or head to the alfresco rooftop. 2425/F, Hotel Muse Bangkok, 55/555 Langsuan Rd., 02-630-4000. Open daily 6pm-1am. YN19

conjures up both Victorian drawing room style and NYC sophistication—it’s no wonder this place is so popular. Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-168-5152-3.

BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. YM21 Q BAr — The Soi 11 institution continues to deliver a heady mix of bass lines and international DJs. Its large outdoor patio is a great spot to kick back with friends, while the downstairs level, featuring a serious dance floor and three bars, is perfect for beat addicts. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-3274. Open daily 8pm-1am. ZA1 The ST regiS BAr — A New York Mad Men vibe impressive views, a daily champagne sabrage and a Thai take on the bloody mary are the highlights.

12/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily noon-1am. www.stregis.com YN18 W XyZ — Hidden on the mezzanine of a savvy new hotel, this bar serves up one of the largest range of molecular cocktails in town. Its LED-lit floor and ceiling makes the space a sensual lounge to meet and mingle. Aloft Bangkok, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-7000. Open daily 6pm-1am. ZA1

RiveRsiDe the speAKeAsy

hyde & Seek — Elevated pub grub, one of Bangkok’s best cocktail menu and décor that

ViVA & AViV — Fitting for its riverside location, this new venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nauticallyinspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive, well-made cocktails and pub grub.

River City Complex, 23 Yota Rd., 02-639-6305.

Open daily 11am-midnight. www.vivaaviv.com

thongLoR/ekkamai cloudS — The futuristic vision is certainly striking— from the undulating ceiling, sporting anything from roses to Barbie dolls, to the acrylic seating inset with leaves. Potent cocktails from the laboratory of a bar add to the techno-ecoinspired theme. G/F, Seenspace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2365. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZB6 FAT guT’Z SAlooN — Sitting on the corner of a small lifestyle mall, this hole-in-the-wall reminds us of a New Orleans speakeasy, with its dark panelled walls and matching furniture. A bluesfuelled band and fish n’ chips are house specials.

1/F, Grass Thonglor, 264 Thonglor Soi 12, 02714-9832. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-2am. iroN FAirieS — Like no other bar in Bangkok, it actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies. A great live band and powerful cocktails make this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 084-520-2301. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. ZB6 MelloW — Another popular spot for dining and drinking, Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, affluent locals. They’re attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and delicious cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am. ZA6

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5 Khaosan Road

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AUGUST 2012 I W HERE THA ILA N D 29

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Navigate GET MOVING AIRPORT LINk—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (connecting to the MRT, but it’s a long walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 15 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 30 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan City Terminal. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B90 for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.

Dining

picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are between B9 and B19, depending on distance and are purchased on board.

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS—These fast, frequent and cheap ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with an excellent guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river.

CANAL BOATS—While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only one canal still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Ban Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town, stopping off at various piers along the way.

Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nervewracking (and physically-challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal (klong) water, any

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by Yuyai D3 17. Near Equal C5 18. Phuket Town C6 19. Rosabieng B1 20. Seafood Bar D3 21. Smith C5 22. Soul Food Mahanakorn C6 23. Surface B6 24. Thai Lao Yeh C5 25. Water Library B6 26. Xuan Mai A6

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INTERCITy BuSES—There are three main 24 25 1 stations for buses out of town. The Northern Bus Tha Phrachan Pier Tha Tien PierTerminal or Mo Chit (02-936-2841/-3) is located ·‹Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã ·‹ÒàµÕ¹ a taxi ride away from Mo Chit BTS/Kamphaeng 3 Phet MRT and services Northern and Northeastern Thailand as well as some Eastern destinations. The Eastern Bus Terminal (02-391-2504) is located right

by BTS Ekkamai and has buses departing to Pattaya, Rayong, Koh Samed and 9 Finally, the Southern 1 Trat.

1 Bus Terminal or Sai TaiWat(02-894-6122) is located Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ Wat Po ÇѴ⾸Ô์ across the river at Thonburi on Boromratchachonnanee Road and services Western (Kanchanaburi) and Southern Thailand, including the islands of Phuket and Samui.

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BuSES—The bus is a popular (if slow) budgettravel choice in Bangkok. The Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (BMTA) Wat Suthat operates an extensive number of ÇÑ´ÊØ·Ñȹ routes throughout Bangkok and its nearby provinces.

There are two types of buses: non-air-con and aircon. Fares for non-air-con buses are B6.5-7.5 while fares for air-conditioned buses are B10-23, depending on the distance. Fares are paid to on-board staff, who rarely speak English. Visit www.bmta.co.th for a list of routes and schedules.

Shopping

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TO BEARING STATION

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Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢

4

City Viva

ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Soi Silom 1 9 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 1 5 I

2

Surasak

ION

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

Terminal Í¡ÁÑÂ

2

Chong Nonsi

Ekkamai

TO BE ARIN

5

Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์

H

12

4

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ã㵌

G

3

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ

7

¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

Si Lom Rd.

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

Silom Soi 4

TO BANG SUE STATION

3

Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§

ÈÒÅÒá´§

Silom Soi 2

1

8

Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ãà˹×Í

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

ESSENTIAL NumBERS 27

26

Emergency Services (Fire6Brigade, Police) 191

28

Wang Lang Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇѧËÅѧ

Airport Rail Link 02-308-5600. http://airportraillink.railway.co.th Bangkok metropolitan Administration Hotline 1555 Bangkok Taxi Call Center 1681 / 1661 Bangkok 4 mass Transit System (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th BTS Tourist Information Center : 02-6173 7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th Phra Athit Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

Bangkok metro (mRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th Wat Chana Songkram ÇÑ´ª¹Ðʧ¤ÃÒÁ

Chao Phraya Express Boat Call Center 02-623-6001-3 (daily 6am-7pm). www. chaophrayaexpressboat.com Police Station ʶҹյÓÃǨ

Suvanbhumi International Airport 1722/02132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) – 1672. www.tourismthailand.org Tourist Police 24 hour call center 1155 Democracy Monument

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Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò

7 2012 I W HERE THA ILA N D 31 AUGUST

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Navigate listing_june12_1.indd 31

7/23/12 5:44 PM

7

8

9

Chamchuri Square ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ

10

TO NATIONAL STADIUM STATION

11 Lumpini Park ÊǹÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

Si Lom ÊÕÅÁ

Chulalongkorn Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒŨؿÒŧ¡Ã³

12

13

14

Lumphini ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

Rama 4 Rd. TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

Navigate F

¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 4

1

Sala Daeng 1

8

Silom Complex Thaniya Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ

Tuk-TukS—Tuk-tuks are a noisy Silom but fun way of Soi 4

TO BE ARIN

G STAT

ION

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

minal ÁÑÂ

¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

Si Lom Rd.

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ

ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ã㵌

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63 12

2

Dining 9 6

SkyTRAIN/uNDERgROuND—The

W

City Viva

2

Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ 3

1. Supatra Riverside P26 St. Louis Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒÅૹµ ËÅØÂÊ 2. The Deck Q23 3. Venice Vaniche P26

Pan Rd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹

Health & Wellness 1. Wat Po Surasak Q24 ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Art & Attractions

Soi Silom 1 9 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 1 5

Bangkok Skytrain (BTS) stops at Bangkok’s main dis¡¢ There tricts and gives you a bird’s Mahesak eye viewRd. of¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ the city.

I are two main lines: the Silom Line, which runs from across the river in Wongwian Yai to National Stadium; and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing 4 in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before 5 4 heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak OP Place Oriental Pier Market. Siam is the interchange station between the ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕ¹àµÅ two lines.

1. Grand Palace Q25 2. Museum Siam Q23 3. National Gallery Q27 4. National Museum Q27 5. Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall S26 Saphan Taksin P27 6. Royal Barge Museum ÊоҹµÒ¡ÊÔ¹ 7. The Queen’s Gallery S27 8. Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) P22 9. Wat Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã Buddha) Q25

Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡Ãا

J

21

2

Chong Nonsi

able and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivH ers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication.

Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price.

àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

5

Fares are B15-B40 for both trains. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.

Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์ bts.co.th and www.bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

There are interchange stations between the MRT and BTS at Sukhumvit (MRT)/Asoke (BTS) and Silom

TAXIS—In Bangkok metered taxis are readily avail-

Ekkamai

4

(MRT)/Sala Daeng (BTS).

Soi Convent The underground, or MRT, is one «Í¤͹áǹµ line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down3 through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station.

getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo 7 opportunities.

However, there is no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on aGprice before getting in. Haggle hard and be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

TO BANG SUE STATION

3

Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§

ÈÒÅÒá´§

Silom Soi 2

1

8

Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ãà˹×Í

Y

TO WONGWIAN YAI STATION

22 rattanakoSin

23

24

25

1 Tha Phrachan Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã

Tha Tien Pier ·‹ÒàµÕ¹

26

27

28

6 Wang Lang Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇѧËÅѧ

3

8 P

Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃس

2

1

1 Memorial Bridge Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊоҹ¾Ø·¸

2

9

4

Wat Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ

Wat Po ÇѴ⾸Ô์

3 5

Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃҪǧ¤

Wat Chana Songkram ÇÑ´ª¹Ðʧ¤ÃÒÁ

Wat Rajapardit ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃдÔÉ°

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Phra Athit Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

Wat Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·Ñȹ

Police Station ʶҹյÓÃǨ

TO BEARING STATION

7 R

Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

1

India Emporium ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ÍÔ¹à´Õ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ

The Old Siam Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ China World ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ䫹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´

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Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò

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32 W H E R E T H A I L AND I A UGUS T 2 0 1 2

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E

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

Soi Sukhumvit 38

10

Soi Sukhumvit 40 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

ÊǹÊÒ¸ÒóàºÞ¨¡ÔµµÔ

Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢Ø

Queen Sirikit National Convention Center Èٹ »ÃЪØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Benchakitti Park

Soi Sukhumvit 26 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

Soi Sukhumvit 24 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁ

Soi

Soi

Soi Sukhum

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TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

Siam

TO MO CHIT STATION

15

Y

16

17

18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ

19

21

20

Ratchathewi Platinum Mall á¾ÅµµÔ¹ÑÁ ÁÍÅÅ

13

12 4

L 2

Siam Discovery ÊÂÒÁ´ÔʤѿàÇÍÃÕ่

Siam Center ÊÂÒÁà«็¹àµÍÃ

4,6

Siam Paragon ÊÂÒÁ¾ÒÃҡ͹

Wat Patum Wanaram ÇÑ´»·ØÁǹÒÃÒÁ

Central World à«็¹·ÃÑÅàÇÔà Ŵ

Gaysorn ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒà¡ÉÃ

6

Chit Lom ªÔ´ÅÁ

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Phloen Chit à¾ÅÔ¹¨Ôµ

Rama 1 Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 1

ÊÂÒÁ

Digital Gateway ´Ô¨ÔµÍÅà¡็µàÇÂ

Royal Thai Police Êӹѡ§Ò¹µÓÃǨáË‹§ªÒµÔ

General Police Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒŵÓÃǨ

Amarin Plaza Erawan Bangkok ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒÍÑÁÃÔ¹·Ã ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒàÍÃÒÇѹ

3

y

Henri Dunant Rd. ¶¹¹ ÍѧÃÕ´Ù¹Ñǵ

N

Phaya Thai Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÞÒä·

11

1. Cafe Claire N20 2. Drinking Tea, Eating Rice N21 3. Erawan Tea Room N18 4. Gaggan O19 5. Gianni Ristorante N20 6. Grossi Trattoria M19 7. La Monita Taqueria M21 8. Medici N19 9. Pomodoro N21 10. Reflexions N21 11. Shintaro N18 12. Sra Bua L17 13. Thompson Bar & Restaurant L15 14. Zuma N18

Nightlife

1. Hyde & Seek M21 2. Speakeasy M21 3. The St Regis Bar N18

Health & Wellness 1. Elemis Spa N18 2. i.sawan N18 3. Okura Spa M21 4. Panpuri Spa M18 5. S Medical Spa L20 6. Thann Sanctuary Spa M18

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

1 3

Ratchadamri

7 1

10

5 8 2

1

1

2 9

R

ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

S 4

Sarasin Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒÃÊÔ¹

O

Dining

14

2

Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ

6 MBK ÁÒºØÞ¤Ãͧ

3

Soi Tonson «Í µŒ¹Ê¹

ʹÒÁ¡ÕÌÒáË‹§ªÒµÔ

M

TO BEARING STATION

Siam Soi Lang Suan «Í ËÅѧÊǹ

National Stadium

Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃҪǧ¤

Q

Central Chidlom ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à«็¹·ÃÑŪԴÅÁ

T

TO WONGWIAN STATION

Shopping

y

1. Amarin Plaza M18 2. Central Chidlom M19 3. CentralWorld M18 4. Erawan Bangkok M18 5. Gaysorn M18 6. MBK Center M16 7. Pantip Plaza K17 8. Platinum Fashion Mall K18 9. Siam Center M17 10. Siam Discovery Center M16 11. Siam Paragon M17

Art & Attractions

1. 100 Tonson Gallery N20 2. Bangkok Art & Cultural Center (BACC) M16 3. Jim Thompson Art Center & House L1 5 4. Siam Ocean World M17 5. Sombat Permpoon Gallery L21 6. White Space Gallery M16

ATmS—ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside of 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

LIST Of BANkS—Banking hours are generally from 8:30am to 3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm. The main banks are: Bankgok Bank (1333, www.bangkokbank.com), Bank of Ayudhya (1572, www.krungsri.com), CIMB Thai (02-626-7777, www.cimbthai.com), Kasikorn Bank (02-888-8888, www.kasikornbank.com), Kiatnakin Bank (02-680-3333, www.kiatnakin.co.th), Krungthai Bank (1551, www.ktb.co.th), Siam Commercial Bank (02-777-7777, www.scb.co.th), Standard Chartered Bank (1595, www.standardchartered.co.th), Thanachart Bank (1770, www.thanachartbank.com), Tisco Bank (www.tisco.co.th), TMB Bank (02-299-1111, www.tmbbank.com), United Overseas Bank (02285-1555, www.uob.co.th).

HOSPITALS—Bumrungrad International, (Sukhumvit Soi 1-3, 02-667-1000, emergency 02667-2999), Bangkok Hospital (Soi Soonvijai, Petchaburi Rd., 02-310-3000), BNH Hospital (Convent Rd., 02-686-2700), Samitivej Sukhumvit (Sukhumvit 49, 02-711-8181), Siriraj SiPH (Phrannok Rd., 1474).

AUGUST 2012 I W HERE THA ILA N D 33

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Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃس

Memorial Bri ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊ

5

Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

3

Chit Lom Rd. ¶¹¹ªÔ´ÅÁ

Ratchadamri Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

K

Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ

Pantip Plaza ¾Ñ¹·Ô¾Â ¾ÅÒ«‹Ò

Soi Som Khit «ÍÂÊÁ¤Ô´

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7/23/12 5:44 PM

tea al’s

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30 Things we LOve about Thailand

!4

@8

Courtersy of tourism Authority of thAilAnd

!1

!6 1 Exploring the rich Lanna culture and amazing ancient temples on the charming streets of Chiang Mai.

9 Offering alms to Thai and Mon monks in the morning mist of Sangkhlaburi in Kanchanaburi.

2 Discovering Michelin-Starworthy, traditional Thai dishes at David Thompson’s Nahm (G/F, Metropolitan, 02-625-3333).

!0 Discovering the natural delights of

3 Taking a bicycle trip around the

Phu Kradueng National Park in Loei.

!1 Sipping a glass of Monsoon Valley Cuvee de Siam while looking out over the rolling hills at Hua Hin Hills Vineyard (081-701-0222).

floating markets, lush plantations and crumbling temples of Bang Krajao (Spice Roads, www.spiceroads.com).

!2 Traversing the famous bridge and

4 Taking a long tail boat to Freedom

drinking in the memories along the River Kwai in Kanchanaburi.

Beach, the wonderfully inaccessible (and peaceful) beach in Phuket.

!3 Hunting for antiques along

5 Getting lost in the maze of alleys at Chatuchak Weekend Market (BTS Mo Chit/MRT Kamphaeng Phet).

6 Experiencing the eerie beauty of the sacred Wat Rong Khun (aka The White Temple) in Chiang Rai.

delights of real-life fairy factory and bar, Iron Fairies (394 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 084-425-8080).

course at the Doi Chaang (www. doichaangcoffee.com) plantation in Chiang Rai.

!8 Enjoying the cutting-edge

@5 Setting out on a boat trip from

performances, alongside Bangkok’s beautiful people at Bed Supperclub (26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537.

BTS Nana).

Koh Samui to explore the 40 stunning tropical islands of Angthong Marine National Park.

@6 Soaking up the view of the floral delights and organized chaos of Pak Klong Talad flower market.

Andaman from your private pool at the five-star Paresa Resort (www. paresaresorts.com) in Phuket.

@0 Enjoying tasty street eats from the

@7 Playing 18 holes on the challenging

Charoen Krung Road in Bangkok.

numerous stalls to be found in China Town’s Yaowarat Road.

championship level course at Black Mountain Golf Club (www. blackmountainhuahin.com), Hua Hin.

!4 Discovering the leading Thai

@1 Escaping the stresses of modern

contemporary art collection at the Museum of Contemporary Art or MOCA (02-953-1005/-7, www. mocabangkok.com).

living at one of Bangkok’s meditation centers (try www.bia.or.th).

Bangkok used to be like with a klong tour around the old canals (klongs) of Nonthaburi from Saphan Taksin Pier.

!6 Scaling the stunning limestone 8 Learning how to kite surf on the

@4 Taking a coffee-roasting

boxing match at Lumpini Stadium (Rama IV Rd., MRT Lumpini, www. muaythailumpini.com).

!9 Getting up early to experience the

!5 Getting a glimpse of what 7 Discovering the Dickensian

!7 Sitting ringside for a Thai

cliffs at Railay Beach.

breezy unspoilt beach at Pranburi, try Air Stylers Kite School (www. airstylers.com).

@8 Walking Phuket Town’s heritage trail and experiencing the unique Baba-Nyonya architecture.

@2 Spending a whole day of pampering with a wide selection of treatments at i.Sawan (5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan, 02-254-1234).

@3 Exploring the home of secret agent and silk tycoon Jim Thompson (6 Soi Kasemsan 2, 02-216-7368), a complex of gorgeous Thai teak pavilions packed with Asian antiques.

@9 Getting up close to a gentle giant with a day visit to the Elephant Nature Foundation (www. elephantnaturefoundation.org) just outside Chiang Mai.

#0 Being the first to see the sunrise from Thailand’s eastern-most point at Pha Taem in Ubon Ratchathani.

34 W H E R E t Ha i l and I A ugus t 2 0 1 2

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