Where® Thailand May 2014 by Where Thailand

Thailand

PLUS

M AY 2 0 14 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO 速

速

W W W. W H E R E T H A I L A N D . C O M

SECRET KINGDOM

Discovering the unique charms of Isaan

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CONTENTS ®

l THAILAND l MAY 2014

The Guide NUT ONAREE

where

BANGKOK 19 DINING

Three indoor options for Isaan food and groovy new dining venues

22 ARTS+ATTRACTIONS An exciting gallery with bold ambitions breathes new life into the local art scene

ISAAN UNCOVERED The best of Thailand's Northeastern region

24 NIGHTLIFE A tiny bar with a big attitude looks to land a sucker punch

AROUND THAILAND 06 SAMED WEEKENDS Discovering Bangkokians' favorite island escape

08 ON YOUR BIKE How to explore the capital on two wheels

26 HEALTH+WELLNESS A sexy and sophisticated spa opening

28 SHOPS+SERVICES A riverside mall with a retro vibe

NEWS 10 ANDAMAN ARRIVALS A luxe resort and a top restauarant open near Phuket

30 MAPS Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin

12 BANGKOK BUZZ A new hotel opening and three floating markets close to the city

14 UPCOUNTRY NEWS Vintage bikes, local coffee and a striking resort

ALSO INSIDE

16 GULF OF THAILAND Yachting, motorbikes and Samui's new shopping hub

35 21 THINGS WE LOVE

Managing Editor/Publisher Nick Measures

Sales Manager Sherry Maturose Kato

Editor Wachiraporn Janrut

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

General Manager James Fuss Managing Editor Grégoire Glachant Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapon Contributors Monruedee Jansuttipan, Wanida Jiralertpaiboon

Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com

MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

On the Cover Phunacome Resort Cover Photo by Grégoire Glachant

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

30 NAVIGATE

www.wherethailand.com

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

@where_thailand

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where FEATURE

ISAAN ADVENTURE

The best of Thailand’s North-eastern region. By Wachiraporn Janrut

NITIPHOL TEMPRIM

onsisting of 20 provinces and occupying over 168,854 sq km— about a third of the country— it’s slightly surprising how off the beaten track the Northeastern region of Thailand remains. Even more so when you consider that this region, separated from Cambodia and Laos by the Mekong River, promises natural wonders, a rich Khmer heritage and even the chance to visit a vineyard or two.

HISTORIC LEGACY The ancient Khmer empire once ruled over large swathes of Laos, Southern Vietnam, Cambodia and North-eastern Thailand between the 7th–12th century. While Cambodia’s Angkor Wat is clearly the most famous architectural legacy, Thailand, and particularly Nakhon Ratchasima, Buriram, Sisaket and Surin provinces, is home to numerous Khmer-influenced prasat (palace temples). Built around the end of the 11th century in Phimai, Nakhon Ratchasima, Prasat Phimai is Thailand’s largest temple of the Khmer baphuon style. It’s also one of the most charming, with its serene Buddha images sitting under spires with delicately carved lintels and its outer courtyards where tall, majestic trees soar amid the crumbling walls. Sat on an extinct volcano, Buriram’s Prasat Hin Phanom Rung (Moo 2, Ta Pek, Chaloem Phra Kiat) is equally striking, commanding sweeping views of the countryside surrounding it. It’s a large complex, with a long pathway connecting two groups of buildings. The architecture and the carving is superb thanks, in part, to 17 years of restoration work. It’s particularly famous for an interesting phenomena where the sun’s rays shine directly through the 15 main doors of the temple. The event occurs four times a year during the sunrise on April 3-5 and September 8-10 and at sunset on March 5-7 and October 6-8.

SAM PAN BOAK

NATURAL WONDERS Beyond historic sites, Isaan is also home to no less than 24 national parks. Top of the list for many travelers is Phu Kradueng National Park (042-871-333, www.dnp.go.th) in Loei province, which is home to the 1,316-meterhigh table mountain that gives the park its name. The climb to the plateau takes over three hours through the jungle and the going can get pretty steep, but you can get a porter to carry your bag for you and there are numerous stations along the way to buy drinks and snacks. The scenery when you get to the summit makes it worthwhile, though. If you want to catch the dramatic sunrise from the summit of the plateau then there is the option to camp at the top. Note that the park is closed in the rainy season from June to September. Admission fees are B400 for adults and B200

for children. A less grueling natural wonder in the region is Sam Pan Boak, which means 3,000 shallow lakes, in Ubon Ratchathani province. Nicknamed the Grand Canyon of Thailand, it is actually a series of dramatic rock formations within the Mekong River and is best viewed in the dry season between November and June, when the water is at its lowest. The country’s easternmost point, at Pha Taem National Park (Huay Pai, Kong Jiam District), is the first place in the Kingdom to welcome the new day. The 34,000-hectare park is home to a mix of deciduous forest, fields of flowers and dramatic rock formations like Sao Chaliang, where giant boulders are perched atop stone columns. A picturesque trail runs from the visitor center along the foot of a sheer cliff where you can spot prehistoric paintings of animals and humans.

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FEATURE where Y Y THREE MUST-SEE ISAAN

FESTIVALS

GRANMONTE

ROCKET FESTIVAL

PB VALLEY

PRASAT HIN PHANOM RUNG

WINE TRAIL

PHU KRADUENG NATIONAL PARK

Thai wineries have gained a lot more attention in the last decade, with local wines scooping global awards. Two of the biggest wineries are PB Valley and GranMonte, both located in the southern Isaan province of Nakhon Ratchasima, close to Khao Yai National Park. Around two and a half hours’ drive from Bangkok, PB Valley (www.khaoyaiwinery.com) was among the first in Thailand and is still the country’s largest vineyard. The winery offers a daily wine tasting tour, led by wine professionals, conducted in English and Thai, at 10:30am, 1:30pm and 3:30pm. You can also dine at The Great Hornbill Grill, which overlooks the vineyard—we recommend the woodfired pizza. The smaller GranMonte (www.granmonte.com) vineyard is set in the beautiful Asoke Valley. Despite its small size, the vineyard has won scores of awards from international wine competitions for its range of syrah, cabernet sauvignon, chenin blanc, Viognier and rose wines. They also offer a 90-minute guided tour that covers growing techniques, winemaking and wine tasting. The vineyard’s Vincotto restaurant serves home-style Western dishes, adapted from the owner’s family recipes and they also have a shop selling various grape-related food and drinks.

Rocket Festival, Yasothorn Date: May 9-11 One of the most explosive and unusual festivals in the Thai calendar, the Boon Bung Fai Festival is based on an old folk belief, which sees the local farmers try to coax the gods into the romantic mood needed to produce rainfall. They do this by sending huge home-made phallic-shaped rockets, or “Bang Fai,” up into the heavens. These events are held throughout the region but the one at Yasothon has grown to become the biggest and best. Parties involving beauty pageants, colorful costumes, local music (and lots of alcohol) all feature before the rockets are fired. Some rockets take months to build and can be over ten feet high, fired off from giant launch pads, making for a spectacular if chaotic affair. Phi Ta Khon, Loei Date: June 27-29 The annual ghost festival held in Loei’s Dan Sai District is one of Thailand’s most picturesque events. The festival includes a parade of young men wearing bells, colorfully decorated masks and bright outfits waving wooden phalluses to represent ghosts woken by villagers celebrating the return of Buddha in a former life from a long journey. The festival pays respect to local spirits who protect the village and to ask for a prosperous farming season. The Naga Fireballs, Nong Khai Date: October 8 Situated on the banks of the Mekong River, the charmingly sleepy town of Nong Khai plays host to the annual Bang Fai Phaya Nark Festival (better known as the Naga fireballs) every October. Marking the end of Buddhist Lent, big crowds gather to watch hundreds of glowing orbs, said to be produced by a Naga (mythical snake), mysteriously rise up out of the Mekong River and disappear into the full moon sky. The festival also features long-tail boat races and light and sound performances. For more information, call 1672. www. tourismthailand.org MAY 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 5

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where FEATURE

KOH SAMED

By Nick Measures

SAI KAEW

nly a few hours from Bangkok and with the added bonus of clean sandy beaches and a sea you can still swim in, Koh Samed has long been one of Bangkokians’ best kept secrets. The one downside used to be the basic accommodation, but Samed has definitely gone more upmarket in recent years. We give you the low-down on the best beaches and places to stay.

OLD SCHOOL REVIVAL

PARTY CENTRAL

Situated at the north of the island, Sai Kaew is the largest and definitely the busiest beach on Samed. As a result, it’s packed with a host of affordable restaurants and bars that let you lie back on traditional axe pillows while enjoying fresh seafood, a cold beer and the regular fire shows right on the beach. The broad sands and shallow water make it a popular spot with visitors with children and a good family accommodation option is Sai Kaew Beach Resort (40/11 Moo 4, Tumbol Phe, 038-644-195-7. www.samedresorts. com). Situated at the northern end of the beach, it’s actually been around for over a decade but underwent a major renovation a few years ago replacing the old wooden huts with an architecturally striking new complex. The two blocks of accommodation, include a decking-clad, two-story courtyard offering a choice of spacious, if functional, premier and premier deluxe rooms around a lovely pool, while the separate beachfront and poolside villas have a Scando-Thai style.

The preponderance of bars, cheap accommodation and easy access from Bangkok mean Samed has long been popular with Thai university students and expat teachers looking to blow off steam. Buckets of cheap cocktails are the drink of choice at many of the bars and the heartbeat of it all is still the island’s one main club, Silver Sands (92 Moo 4 Tumbol Phe, 038-644300, www.silversandsamed.com) with its daybeds situated right on Ao Phai beach. Offering an openair terrace and sizeable dance floor playing a mix of Euro-pop and hip hop it gets packed at weekends. Another popular spot for a night out is Naga bar (Moo 4, Ao Pai Beach), perched above the sands of Ao Hin Khok it offers a laidback vibe and lots of happy hour deals. If you want a more relaxed evening out then the best Samed has to offer is the longstanding Jep’s restaurant (038-644-112), a little further down the same beach. The beachside tables, sat under swaying trees

adorned with colored lanterns are normally busy with diners looking to sample the seafood fresh from the BBQ or the wide choice of Western and Thai dishes. For somewhere to stay, try the three-star destination of Samed Villa Resorts (89/4 Ao Phai, Samed Island, 038-644-094. www.samedvilla.com). Opt for a familysized bungalow close to the beach if you can get one.

CRESCENT SANDS If you don’t plan on a big beach party then the long sweeping crescent of Ao Wong Duan Beach is a more relaxed option due to its slightly out of the way location. Situated a twenty minute drive from the other main beaches it definitely attracts less tourists, though it can be invaded by day trippers, but still offers a good range of beachside restaurants and bars. One of the most recent additions is La Lune Beach Resort (62 Moo 4, Ao Wong Duan, 02-260-3592, www.lalunebeach.com), which offers 40 contemporary rooms surrounding a central swimming pool. We also recommend Samed Cabana Resort (02-260-3592-5, www.samedcabana. com), which has lovely bungalows right on the beach and has a good pool.

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FEATURE where Y

. Ao Phrao

KOH SAMED ISLAND

SAI KAEW BEACH RESORT

GETTING THERE

Noi Na

. . .

. .

Ao Luk Yon

Haad Sai Kaew

Ao Hin Khok

Ao Phai

Tubtim

Ao Nuan

Ao Cho

Ao Wong Duan Ao Lung Dam

Ao Wai

Ao Kiu Na Noi

SAMED VILLA RESORT

. .

Ao Kiu Na Nok

Ao Karang

GO WEST

SOUTHERN COMFORTS

THINGS TO DO

Another more isolated option is to head to the long crescent sand of Ao Prao beach on the western coast of the island. This beach is very quiet and all the resorts sit well with the natural jungle surroundings. That can be a downside too, as you’re limited in where you can eat unless you want a 20-plus minute songthaew ride over to the other side of the island. It’s hardly a case of Robinson Crusoe though, as there is actually a choice of three jungle-enclosed resorts: Le Vimarn Cottages and Spa (038644-100/-3, www.samedresorts. com), with its Thai and Balinese style cottages, infinity pool and sumptuous spa villas; the simple but roomy Thai style cottages of Ao Prao Resort (038-644-100/3. www.samedresorts.com); and, wedged in between, the Mediterranean-themed Lima Coco (02938-1811, 089-105-7080, www. limacoco.com).

Finally, to really get away from The beauty of Koh Samed is it all, then you have to head there really isn’t much to distract South. Situated right at the very you from lying on the sand with tip of the island on Ao Kiew a good book, grabbing a beach Beach, Paradee Resort (038massage and then cooling off 644-283/-8, www. in the clear blue waters. paradeeresort.com) Most beaches are is the one truly connected allowing five-star opfor very long walks tion available, in the sand, with with prices to plenty of places match. There to stop off for reare just 30 freshments along villas, most of the way. There are which come with Songthaews (taxi their own pools. The pickups) that travel LE VIMARN truly decadent should between the different COTTAGES AND SPA take advantage of the beaches. You can also rent Paradee Suite Villa with motorbikes but be warned its own patch of secluded private the roads are in very poor condibeach, cocktail bar and butler tion, especially during the rainy service. We love the vaguely Moseason. If you must escape it all, roccan theme and high ceilings in then numerous operators on the the villas. island offer snorkeling day trips and sunset cruises around the island.

Bangkok to Ban Phe Pier Buses leave southern bus station at Ekkamai every 2-3 hours. You can get a minibus from Victory Monument (6am–5pm) or simply hire a bus or taxi to take you straight to the pier. Speedboat There are countless operators offering the service 24 hours a day. Costs start from just B100 for a return trip (minimum 20 people, from Ban Phe to Sai Kaew Beach) but expect to pay between B1,500-2,600 per boat depending on the size of your group. You can also get boats and ferries that go direct to Ao Wong Duan Beach. Ferry. The ferry from Ban Phe to Koh Samed pier runs 24/7, with boats leaving as they fill up (show up in the middle of the night and you might wait a while). Note: if you are booked into any of the Samed Resorts they have their own ferries or speedboats (depending on destination) leaving via their office at Seree pier in Ban Phe. See www. samedresorts.com for more details. Entry. Koh Samed is a national park so you do have to pay the entrance fee: B500 for adults and B400 for children.

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where FEATURE

ON YOUR BIKE Cycling is an increasingly popular way to get a different perspective on Bangkok. By Wachiraporn Janrut, photos by Co Van Kessel and SpiceRoads BANGKOK

Guided Tour Agencies These days there are numerous Bangkokbased travel agencies offering bicycle tour packages. This is perhaps the safest and most convenient option for visitors, especially if you’re planning a trip to unfamiliar destinations. Even better you also don’t need to bring any gear, just yourself, some money, and perhaps a camera, with the fees usually covering bicycle and helmet rental, accident insurance and an English-speaking Thai tour guide.

SpiceRoads, for example, offers a halfday tour to the idyllic green space of Bang Kachao, located just across the river from the main Bangok port at B1,150, a day-trip to the ancient capital of Ayutthaya at B2,950, and a four-day, three-night trip through central Thailand covering Samut Songkram, Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya, Bang Pa-in and Bangkok at B17,500 per person. They also provide a mini-van that follows the group so that you can grab a rest if and when you need it.

Co Van Kessel Tours offers a standard three-hour bicycle tour at Most companies can provide a B950 per trip. The journey usually long list of available programs, starts in Bangkok’s Chinatown ranging from a half-day tour in leading you through narrow Bangkok to a week riding around alleyways, traditional shophouses CHINATOWN Northern Thailand. You can and a local market where you can choose a tour that best suits your grab a glimpse into the real heart interests and level of proficiency. of the city. It then takes you across the Some of the best-known agencies Chao Phraya River to the more peaceful are SpiceRoads (www.SpiceRoads. neighborhood of Thonburi. They offer both com), Grasshopper Tours (www. day-time and evening rides. The company grasshopperadventures.com), Co van also offers a five-hour package at B1,500, Kessel Tours (www.CoVanKessel.com), which combines a bicycle tour in Chinatown Follow Me (www.FollowMeBikeTour.com) with a long-tail boat trip along peaceful and Recreational Thailand Biking (www. canals passed traditional wooden homes bangkokbiking.com). and ancient temples.

PHRA KHANONG CANAL

BANG KRACHAO

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FEATURE where Y Hop on for Hire Of course, it’s unlikely that you’ve packed your own set of wheels, but that doesn’t need stop you if you do want to go it alone thanks to a new scheme from the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA). Taking its cue from similar bike rental services in other capital cities, it lets you rent out one of its fleet of green Pun Pun bikes at low rates from 17 rental stations around the city center. Rental is free for the first 15 minutes and just B100 for an eight-hour period. However, you do have to become a member beforehand, which you can do by taking your passport along to the following stations: Siam Square; Chamchuree Square; Central World 2; Vorawat; All Seasons; Rajanakarn Station; Zuillig House or the Thai Belgium Bridge Station. The application fee is B320, which also includes insurance. For further details, visit www.punpunbikeshare.com or call 087-029-8888. AYUTTHAYA

Ride Independently You may have come to Thailand with cycling in mind, even going as far as to bring your own bike. Even if you are a proficient cyclist, you are advised to do some research about the routes you plan to take and familiarize yourself with local traffic regulations. Thankfully, there are many organizations and publications to help you stay up-to-date, such as Bicycles United Magazine (www.bicyclesunited. com) and Mountain Bike Tours Thailand (www.mountainbiketoursthailand.com). The Thai Cycling for Health Association also has a good English-language forum (www.thaicycling.com).

BANG KRACHAO

Recommended routes include Benjakitti Park by MRT Queen Sirikit to Khao San Road (12km), Bangkok to Ayutthaya (76km) and around Bang Krachao or Phrapradaeng (3km trail). Other cycling hotspots include Muang Boran or the Ancient City (www. ancientcity.com), Ampawa floating market and Wachirabenchatat Park (See side bar) while Khao-Eto in Prachinburi province is particularly popular with mountain bikers.

Y CYCLING HOT SPOTS

AMPAWA

Time Travel Fancy a day spent cycling past Chedi Chet Yot or up the steps of Preah Vihear but don’t actually have the time to travel there? Why not just jump in a cab and visit Muang Boran, the Ancient City (02-7091644. Open daily 8am-5pm. www. ancientcity.com). This cultural park, about 30 minutes past the Bearing BTS station, features 3/4 size replicas of most of the Kingdom’s historical sites set in gorgeous parkland laid out in the shape of Thailand. You can rent bikes there— B50/B150 (single/three-speed), and cycle round the Kingdom in an afternoon.

Park and Pedal

Wachirabenchatat Park or Suan Rot Fai (BTS Mo Chit) is a great picnic and cycling spot. You don’t need a bike here, with rentals available for just B20-30 each, depending on the bike model or your negotiation skills. They’ll take your ID so you don’t cycle off into the sunset with their precious ride. There’s also a butterfly park and a faux urban environment (complete with traffic lights) for kids to practice riding their bikes.

Historically Geared Best known for its cute floating market and fire flies, Ampawa, the small town in Samut Songkram, is also a great place for a bike trip. As well as offering bikes to rent, Thai Theeb @ Ampawa (2/1, Prachasret Rd., Ampawa, Samut Songkram 082-777-5999. Mon, Wed, Thu 10am-8pm/Fri-Sun 10am-9pm) provide maps to places of interest and historical sites in the area so you can explore on your own. Free for rides under 30min, B50 for 60min, B300 for a day.

BANG KRACHAO

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where NEWS

ISLAND POST What’s happening in Phuket and around the Andaman coast

LE CORAL HIDEAWAY

PHUKET

Gourmet Treat

They also offer wine and cocktail pairings for all menus. Prices start from B5,000 for the vegetarian degustation and they offer free transfers from any hotel in Phuket making it a must for foodies visiting the island. To make things even more appetizing they are currently offering the Tribute menu for B3,000, down from the normal rate of B6,000 on Wednesdays. A five-course Thai gastronomic menu is available on Thursday.

The new Iniala Beach House (www.iniala. com) on Natai Beach, 30 minutes north of Phuket Airport, has been all over the international media of late thanks to a recent visit by the notorious Kardashian family. Even if you can’t quite afford the decadent delights of their three villas created by a host of international designers, then you can get a taster of the high life with a visit to the beach PHUKET houses’ signature restaurant Aziamendi. Situated at the front of the resort, it’s The Laguna Phuket International headed by Chef Eneko Atxa, who also owns Marathon (www.phuketmarathon.com) and runs the three-Michelin-star returns on June 8. This year’s event restaurant Azurmendi in Bilbao, has something for everyone such Spain. The good news is it’s as a half marathon, a 10.5km run, open in the evenings to outside a 5km community walk and even guests to come and sample a 2km race for kids. This year the gourmet cuisine, which Laguna Phuket’s Laguna Grove covers three set menus: Tribute is expected to host over 6,000 features signature dishes from runners and walkers. For registration, his original restaurant such as the LAGUNA fees are B3,450 for a marathon, MARATHON Bonsai tree with cherry tomatoes B3,100 for a half marathon, B2,700 and edible bark and truffled egg; for a 10.5km run, B500 for a 5km The Twist, which takes its inspiration walk and B200 for kids run. from Thai flavors and ingredients; and the

Holiday Fun Run

vegetarian degustation Vegetalis option.

FOOD AT AZIAMENDI

AZIAMENDI

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NEWS where Y PHUKET’S BEST BEACH CLUBS

Xana Beach Club One of the swankiest beach clubs on the island, and perhaps the biggest, thanks to its position on the vast stretch of beach at Bang Tao Bay. It’s also dedicated to bringing in big-name DJs. The club features a 35-meter swim-up bar overlooking the sand hugged by white sofas, daybeds and cabanas. Angsana Laguna Phuket, Moo 10,

XANA BEACH CLUB

Srisoonthorn Road, Cherngtalay, 076-324-101. www.xanabeachclub.com

Nikki Beach Club THE LAGUNA PHUKET INTERNATIONAL MARATHON

PHANG NGA

Coral Luxury The region of Phang Nga, located around 30 minutes north of Phuket island, has welcomed yet another stylish resort as Le Coral Hideaway Beyond Phuket (076-679-888, www.coralhideaway.com) just opened its doors in March. Located on the serene Natai Beach, the property consists of 58 rooms ranging from a 52-sq-meter deluxe room to a 300-sq-meter rooftop suite, all with views of the Andaman Sea. It’s currently offering an opening package at B26,000 per night for at least two nights’ stay in a deluxe pool access room, which has an outdoor rain shower and private Jacuzzi. (normal rate is B35,000 per night.) The package also includes round-trip airport transfers in a Mercedes and a visit to one local island, choose from Tachai, Similan and Phi Phi.

One of the latest beach clubs to arrive on the island looks to imitate its other global incarnations. Decked out with plush white sunbeds and lots of drapery, there’s definitely a laidback luxe vibe going on around the central freeform pool, which sits just steps from the beach. The club promises dining, entertainment, fashion, music, film and art, as well as special daily events like their famous Sunday brunch and sunset happy hours. 62/11 Moo 6, Cherngtalay, 076-681-161. www.nikkibeach. com/phuket

Catch Beach Club While Surin Beach might now have been taken over by beach clubs, this place does have the added kudos of being the first of its kind on the island. The stylish club offers lifestyle experiences like spa treatments, beach BBQs, brunches and sunset cocktails, even a sail on their yacht. It has hosted plenty of international DJs as well. During high season, there is a B3,000 daily fee for entry but you do get that amount to spend as credit on food and drink. Surin Beach Road, Cherngtalay, 076-316-

NIKKI BEACH CLUB

567. www catchbeachclub.com CATCH BEACH CLUB

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where NEWS

CAPITAL

AFFAIRS

Grand openings, hot promotions and special events in Bangkok

BANG NAMPUENG

3 FLOATING MARKETS IN BANGKOK

Bang Nampueng, Samut Prakarn. Open Sat-Sun 8am-5pm

CAFE 9 AT CENTARA WATERGATE PAVILLION HOTEL

Splash and Spice

City Living

Launched by the Tourism Authority of Opening its doors this month, the Thailand and Visa, the Thailand Splash Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok (02-302and Spice 2014 campaign will be running 3333, www.radissonblu.com/plazahotelthrough May 31. This year over 145 bangkok) is the latest high-end hotel to participating hotels in Bangkok, Pattaya, open on Sukhumvit Road. Situated on Chiang Mai, Phuket and Samui will be the corner of Sukhumvit Soi 27, a short offering set menus and lunch or dinner walk from BTS Asoke, the stylish hotel buffets at special prices starting from offers 290 rooms equipped with modern B399, B749 and B1,499 respectively. facilities like free high-speed internet and Aiming to promote Thai food and a business center. It also boasts a range international dishes cooked by of restaurants and bars from rustic Thai chefs, the campaign Italian at Attico to dim sum at targets both Thai and China Table. If you have a sweet visiting foodies who are tooth, check out the hotel’s B/ Visa cardholders. Many Sharp lobby bar and B/Sweet hotels also offer discounts dessert lounge, which offers on room rates together cocktails and desserts, while with their food and beverage wine bar Vintage on the 19/F deals. Some highlights include offers panoramic views of the city. RADISSON a Thai set lunch at Rembrandt Rates start from B7,000 for a 36-sqBLU PLAZA BANGKOK Hotel’s Red Pepper Restaurant at meter deluxe room rising to B57,000 B399, a three-course set menu for a 144-sq-meter royal deluxe suite. at St. Regis’ Viu and Jojo Restaurants at Check out the hotel’s website for best B749, or a three-course Western dinner daily available rates to take advantage of set menu at Cafe 9, Centara Watergate savings of up to 30 percent. Pavillion Hotel at B749. For more information, visit www.visa.co.th.

Set near Bang Krachao and easily accessed by boat from Wat Kloey Toey Nok or Bangna piers, the market is only about 30 minutes from the city center. Situated on a concrete walkway along a tiny canal, there are stalls selling a variety of food, herbal products and handicrafts. There are boats next to the walkway offering that most traditional floating market dish, guay tiew ruea (boat noodles). You can even rent a rowboat to cruise along the canal, too. While there, do check out the Bang Krachao area, named the lung of Bangkok, to enjoy the country vibe, ancient temples and fruit plantations. There are bicycles for rent as well.

Kwan-Riam, Bangkok. Open Sat-Sun and public holidays, 7am-8pm, www.kwan-riamfloatingmarket.com Located along Sansab canal, near Wat Bampen Nua and Wat Bangpen Tai, between Soi Serithai 30 and Soi Ramkamhaeng 187, it’s perhaps the newest floating market in Bangkok. Set up to replicate the traditional canal-side way of life, you’ll see monks on boats collecting alms at 7:30am. You’ll also find many restaurants and stalls selling food from different provinces like grilled pork from Trang, kanom jeen nam ngeow (rice noodles with Northern curry) and khao soi (northern style noodles) from Lampang and yam pak wan (vegetable spicy salad) from Saraburi. There are also many retail shops selling clothes, souvenirs and handicrafts.

Taling Chan, Bangkok. Open Sat-Sun 8am-4pm Tucked away in the suburb of Klong Chak Phra, this is a great spot to feel like you’re outside of Bangkok, even though it’s just 30 minutes from the CBD. The market sits on the banks of a small canal connecting the larger Bangkok Noi and Bangkok Yai canals. It started back in 1987 with only five bamboo rafts but now thousands of shoppers swarm the riverside stalls every weekend. Among the market’s highlights are the floating pontoons, which have been set up with little tables and chairs, where you can stock up on pork satay, kanom jeen (rice noodles), grilled seafood, Thai desserts and fresh fruits and vegetables from vendors’ gardens.

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NEWS where Y

LOOK OUT FOR A COPY OF

Thailand

Available at leading hotels throughout Thailand.

The Essential Annual Guide to the Kingdom. For more information please contact

maketing@asia-city.co.th or call 02-624-9645

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where NEWS UDON THANI

X2 RIVER KWAI

UPCOUNTRY NEWS

New venues, special deals and events from Chiang Mai and beyond. UDON THANI

CHIANG RAI

CHIANG MAI

Home to royal palaces and heritage sites, the former capital of the ancient Lanna Kingdom has become very popular with those interested in exploring the region’s rich art and culture. Opening late last year, the Happy Nest Inspiring Hostel, looks to embrace these traditions by using local art and materials like Northern-style pottery within its modern-looking rooms. Rates start from B2,200 for a family room for four and B1,200 for a private room for two. Even if you’re not staying here you might want to check out their newly opened coffee shop, Neighbor Goods. It offers all-day breakfast, and bakery items which can be enjoyed with coffee grown in the region. Bike tours of the city’s main attractions are also available. For more information, call 053-715-031 or visit www.facebook.com/happynestchiangrai

Those looking for a different way to unwind might want to drop by Chiang Mai’s very first onsen (hot spring baths) at RarinJinda Wellness Spa (053-247-000, www.rarinjinda.com), located in the city center. Bringing the Japanese tradition to Northern Thailand, the spa offers onsen hydrotherapy treatments at its three new onsen pools: a hot spring pool at 40 degrees Celsius, which uses concentrate from the renowned Gero hot springs in Japan; a soda carbonated pool to promote healthy skin; and a refreshing cold pool at 18 degrees Celsius. They are currently offering an opening deal at B1,500 (normal rate B3,000), which includes the use of the three pools, the rainforest steam sauna and the chance to relax for up to three hours at the spa lounge while enjoying herbal tea and snacks like sticky rice and mango.

Cheap and Cheerful

Northern Baths

RIVA FLOATING CAFÉ

RARINJINDA WELLNESS SPA

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NEWS where Y CHIANG MAI

NAKHON PATHOM

KHON KAEN

Adding to Chiang Mai’s lively coffee community is FABB Café & Bistro (053329-296, tinyurl.com/nrwt3jn), which just opened in February in Nandakwang Garden Mall. Owner, Khun Janejira “Luv” Kamonsawedku, used to run a café in Bangkok with the same name before deciding to opt for a slower pace of life up in Chiang Mai where she wants to help further develop the region’s coffee scene. Being the first Thai who is an authorised SCAE (Specialty Coffee Association of Europe) trainer, Luv has also opened FABB Coffee Academy, which offers intensive coffee training courses starting from B19,500 for a full-day coffee introduction course. Surrounded by a peaceful garden environment, the stylish café is set in a two-story house decorated with roasting machines, bookshelves, a piano and an exhibition of 60 different types of coffee beans. The café offers top quality coffee featuring intriguing presentation like iced coffee latte served as ice coffee cubes and hot cappuccino served in a double wall glass. It also serves pasta dishes, salad, pizza and homemade desserts like lemon meringue and cherry cheese cake. There are a few classic cocktails, too, like the musttry Irish coffee and black Russian. Sunday brunch is available from 10am-2pm.

Sampran district in Nakhon Pathom province, only an hour’s drive from Bangkok, features the renowned Wat Raikhing temple, Donwai floating market, the Thai Human Imagery Museum and Sampran Elephant Ground & Zoo. If you want a break during your visit then the recently opened Riva Floating Café (034-312-190, 081919-4090. Open daily 10am-8pm MondayFriday and 9am-9pm Saturday-Sunday. www.facebook.com/RIVAfloatingcafe) on Putthamonthon Sai 7 Road, sits on a wooden raft overlooking the Nakon Chai Si River, and offers slow-drip coffee and a variety of homemade baked goods. The adjoining Parndhevi Resort (034-312-190, www.parndhevi.com) with its 15 Lannastyle villas nestled in a lush garden makes a good option if you fancy staying overnight. Check their website for special packages.

Next time you visit the Northeastern hub of Khon Kaen, you might want to check out Didines Restaurant (Prachasamran Rd., Nai Muang, 080-011-0180, www. didines.com). After a revamp last year, the restaurant reopened with a clean, warm look, featuring a wood and brick decor. The restaurant offers an extensive menu of Thai and Western dishes like bacon cheeseburger, chateaubriand, shepherd’s pie, oven-baked pizzas and Mexican food. In February, Beervana launched a range of its international craft beers at the restaurant, meaning you can now enjoy some fine imported IPAs and ales up-country. Cocktails and wine are also available.

Coffee Craze

HAPPY NEST INSPIRING HOSTEL

Floating Café

Isaan Imports

UDON THANI

Vintage Rides

Home to Phu Prabhat Historical Park, Chao Pu-Ya Shrine and Ban Chiang National Museum, the Northeastern province of Udon Thani has plenty of historic sites Rich in history and nature, the western to explore. Launched this April, RaRe province of Kanchanaburi, just a few hours’ drive from Bangkok, is perfect for a weekend Explorers - Vintage Bicycle Rental Udonthani (081-913-0606, tinyurl.com/ escape offering historic sites like the Death MYANMAR gorgeous k8cj6fc) offers refurbished vintage Railway and WWII museums, VIETNAM bicycles so you can soak up the natural wonders like the Erawan sites and the charming local waterfall, or the chance to LAOS Chiang Rai way of life at a slower just unwind by the River pace. You can choose Kwai. This July, the Chiang Mai from tour, racing, well-respected local mountain and city design hotel chain X2 bikes, with rental will open X2 River Khon Kaen fees at B20-B50 Kwai (02-168-7533, per hour (minimum www.x2resorts.com) Kanchanaburi Udon Thani Nakhon Pathom of two hours) and on six-rai of land sat on Bangkok B240-600 per day, the banks of the Kwai depending on the type Noi River. Consisting of of a bicycle you rent. eight striking cabins all with Helmets are also available for river views, the resort features ANDAMAN B60 a day. If you also need somewhere an industrial chic design and facilities like SEA to stay then check out the new Baan an infinity riverfront pool with sun loungers, Rare OF Guesthouse (042-249-400, www. a library, as well as free Wi-Fi and iPads to GULF SIAM baanrare.com) next door, which offers loan. It also has bicycles to let you explore contemporary Isaan-style rooms. Rates the area. The resort is offering introductory are B1,000 per night including breakfast, rates for bookings through July 31 and stays dropping to just B700 for advance between July 1 and November 30 at B5,500 SOUTH bookings online. If you do stay there, you’ll per night and B10,000 for two night’s stay CHINA SEA also get discounts on the bike rental. including Champagne breakfast for two. KANCHANABURI

River Life

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where NEWS

GULF GOSSIP The latest travel-related news from Hua Hin, Pattaya and Koh Samui

SAMUI REGATTA

PRANBURI

Live to Ride SIAM@SIAM DESIGN HOTEL

SAMUI

Sea Breezes

Lifestyle Shopping

MYANMAR

VIETNAM

The popular island destination has seen One of Asia’s largest yachting events, the a lot of developments in the last couple LAOS Samui Regatta (www.samuiregatta.com), of years and this March it welcomed the returns on May 24-31 at Chaweng Beach. CentralFestival Samui (077-962-777, Started in 2001 and based at Centara Open daily 11am-11pm. www.centralfesGrand Beach Resort Samui (tinyurl.com/ tival.co.th/samui) shopping complex. k52p6fj, 077-230-500), the Situated on Chaweng Beach, the regatta has now grown to 90,000 sq-meter mall space Bangkok attract over 40 boats boasts Samui-inspired Pattaya and 500 sailors from themes with zones that 30 different countries evoke Chaweng port, a Pranburi ANDAMAN each year. In addition fishing village and an old SEA to enjoying the races, town market. There are GULF OF you can have fun at over 200 shops featurSamui SIAM the after-race beaching Thai and internationside parties held on the al fashion brands, a dining island each night. The section filled with cafés SOUTH five-star gala dinner will and restaurants CHINA SEA as well as a be on the final night at B1,500 Pirates of the Caribbean themed MALAYSIA per ticket. Room rates at the resort gaming arcade called Mario Land. start from B7,700 per night.

If relaxing beach holidays are too commonplace for you, you might want try a new service from the Aleenta Resort (www.aleenta.com, 032-618-333, 02-5148112), which offers transfers via Harley Davidson bikes from Bangkok. Hop on the beast and enjoy the ride down to Pranburi, stopping off at a fishing villages, limestone karsts, national parks or attractions like Khao Luang cave temple. On the way take a break at a beachfront location to THAILAND enjoy a picnic, with food from the resort’s 50-rai organic farm, served Bangkokby Aleenta staff who follow you on the journey. The Harley transfer service costs B12,000 per person for a return trip. Once at the resort, you can enjoy other exciting activities like a paramotor flightSamui over Pranburi and all-terrain vehicle driving. The resort has Phang Nga recently expanded to include a neighborPhuket ing beachfront villa, which comprises three bedrooms, three bathrooms, a full kitchen, a dining room, a balcony and an infinity pool. Rates are B15,000 per villa per night in May.

INDONESIA

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NEWS where Y PATTAYA

Bold Boutique

NEW SERVICE FROM ALEENTA RESORT

CENTRALFESTIVAL SAMUI

Following the success of the Siam@Siam Bangkok and Mode Sathorn in Bangkok, the Siam@Siam Design Hotel Pattaya (038930-600, www.siamatpattaya.com) opened late last year on Pattaya Sai 2 Road near Central Festival Pattaya Beach. The hotel features a bold design, vibrant colors and a hint of an underwater world concept. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also home to the quirkily designed Car Bar decorated with Jeeps, rickshaws and even a flying car on the ground floor and the Big Fish international restaurant on the sixth floor. The 24-story is topped with two-tiered pools. Throughout May, it is offering special room rates starting from B2,500 per night from Sun-Thu and B3,000 per night on FriSat.

SIAM@SIAM DESIGN HOTEL PATTAYA

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ThewhereGuide MAY 2014 | BANGKOK ART

Emerging Thai Artist: On The Edge Through May 24 Curated by established local artist Ark Fongsmut, this program aimed at promoting up-and-coming Thai artists showcases a nostalgic contemporary photography series by Miti Ruangkritya, which explores contextual changes in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Bangkok University Gallery, 119 Rama 4 Rd., 02-350-3626. www.facebook.com/ bangkokuniversitygallery. Open Tue-Sat 10am-7pm.

DINING..........................................................19-21 ARTS....................................................................22 ATTRACTIONS...............................................23

NIGHTLIFE..................................................24-25 HEALTH + WELLNESS...........................26-27 SHOPS + SERVICES.................................28-29

NAVIGATE........................................................ 30 MAPS.............................................................31-34

Note that the reference at the end of the listings (WS24, ZD3, etc.) applies to the coordinates on the individual maps on pages 33-36. Listings without coordinates indicate locations not within the maps.

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BANGKOK

DINING

Top Table

LE BEAULIEU

DOWNTOWN 661 SILOM — Steak. $$$$ The kitchen is headed by local chef Chatin Dienel, who has worked at Michelin-starred restaurants in Australia and London. Upstairs at Meat, you get a modern steakhouse dominated by cow skins and leather furniture. Downstairs, Meet has a Dom Perignon theme and gastro bites. Baan Silom, Silom Road, 02-266-8661. Open Mon-Fri 11:30-1am; Sat-Sun 5pm-1am. www.661silom.com XI11 BAWARCHI—Indian. $$$ This is the flagship branch of a chain of four Inidian restaurants that all look to serve up traditional Mughali cuisine like chicken tikka and tandoori lamb chops in a contemporary setting. B/F Intercontinental Hotel, 973 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-0102-3. Open daily 11am-midnight. www.bawarchiindian.com YM18 BLUE ELEPHANT —Thai. $$$$ The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion, complete with a classic interior, where chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine. Thai. 233 South Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. BTS Surasak. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30–10:30pm. XI13

Long-standing French restaurant Le Beaulieu was recently awarded number one spot by leading city living weekly BK Magazine’s Top Tables Guide for 2014 (bk.asia-city.com/toptables2014). The respected guide states that Chef Herve Frerard’s classic French cuisine is simply the best in town. But Frerard didn’t grab top spot just for doing perfectly executed, traditional food. He’s managed to stay relevant through his tireless support of the Royal Projects, which promote agricultural projects among Northern hill tribes. The interior is intimate but very polished, while the terrace hosts a Champagne bar and conservatory doing bistro food and tapas a la Francaise. G/F, Athenee Office Tower, 63 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., 02-168-8220-3. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:3011:30pm YN21

Y PICK ISSAYA SIAMESE CLUB — Thai. $$$-

$$$$ Chef Ian Kittichai made his name in New York but returned home with this restaurant, set in a delightful wooden mansion and featuring inventive twists on classic Thai recipes. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Road, 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. www.issaya.com

JIM THOMPSON — Thai and Fusion. $$-$$$ This venue sports a modern Thai décor and serves Thai and fusion dishes like poh pia hed thod (spring rolls) and roast duck with kale sauce. The second floor features a lounge area serving cocktails. 149/4-6 Surawong Rd. Open daily 9am-4pm, 5-11pm. www.jimthompson.com XH8

PICK LA SCALA — Italian. $$$$ Embellished with dark wood furniture, Buddha images and stylish lamps, the design is resolutely contemporary and Asian. The subtle, yet finely-tuned, ambiance is the ideal backdrop for the refined Italian cuisine. The Sukhothai, Sathorn Road, 02-344-8888. Open daily noon-3pm, 6:30-10:30pm. XF13

Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$

Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Area guide Downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods Lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 Upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

Y PICK EAT ME — International. $$$$ The décor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic, the kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Road, 02-238-0931. Open daily 3pm1am. XG11

Y PICK GAGGAN — Indian. $$$$ After a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and some wow-worthy techniques.68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02-652-1700. Open daily 6pmmidnight. YO19

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DINING RUEN URAI — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house decorated with rare Thai crafts, this charming venue offers a polished menu of solid Thai recipes that retain authentic flavors. Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. XG8

Y NEW OPENINGS

CICCHETTI

Three new drink and dining spots at the city’s latest entertainment hub, Groove (CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 02-264-5555. BTS Siam).

1881 by Water Library The latest of the ever-expanding Water Library empire is a contemporary gastro bar offering a sizeable menu filled with classic Western dishes backed up by some of the best cocktails in town, created by top mixologist Mirko Gardelliano and his talented team. The interior is also pretty striking with an ambience that takes its inspiration from a 19th-century steampowered factory. 1/F, 02-613-1778, 02-613-1774. Open daily 10am-2am.

Cicchetti There’s a similar vibe to the Cicchetti in London—lively yet casual thanks to the natural light and splashes of vivid yellow and beautiful marble work. The menu is inspired by the types of small Italian dishes served in Northern Italy, with home-made pastas and pizzas made to order. The decadent lobster burgers are a big hit already. 1/F, 02-251-6551. Open daily 11ammidnight.

S’more This spacious restaurant has a striking position on the second floor overlooking the BTS and conjures up images of an American hunting lodge with its decor that includes lots of wood and even a few stuffed animals. As you’d expect, the menu is mostly hearty Western dishes with a few fusion options to please the local crowd and its backed up by a bar stocking a good range of whiskeys and imported craft beers. 2/F, 02-613-1271. Open daily 11am-1am.

LE DU — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Le Du’s intriguing menu offers Asian flavors with modern cooking techniques and mostly seasonal local produce. The wine list is exciting, with bottles sourced only from organic producers or boutique importers. 339/3 Silom Soi 7, 081-562-6464. Open MonFri 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm, Sat 6-11pm. www. ledubkk.com XG11

Y PICK NAHM — Thai. $$$$ Named Asia’s top

restaurant, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open Mon-Fri noon-2pm, 7-11pm, Sat-Sun 7-11pm. XG13

ROCK RESTAURANT AND BAR — Thai. $$ This Asian restaurant offers a menu packed with flavors inspired by places such as Myanmar, India and China, as well as Thailand. 7/1 Paholyothin Soi 9, 082-688-8200. Open Tue-Sun 5pmmidnight.

SENSI — Italian. $$$$ Located in a sizeable retro house down a quiet soi, the sleek Italian restaurant has a relaxed vibe with a communal chef’s table in one corner. There’s lots to see with hands hard at work making bread, pasta and cheese, with some modern techniques thrown in for good measure. Narathiwas Soi 17, Yaek 5, 02117-1618. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight. www. sensibangkok.com XG11

Y PICK BO.LAN — Thai. $$$$ Chefs Bo and

Dylan offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a charming house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes to reflect the seasons. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962. Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pm-midnight. www.bolan.co.th ZD5

Y PICK INDUS — Indian. $$$ An ambient spot

with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual North Indian favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:3010:30pm. ZE5

SRA BUA — Thai. $$$$ The sister of Michelinstarred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen offers Thai food with a molecular twist in a soaring, glittering palace dotted with lotus ponds. Siam Kempinski Hotel, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. BTS Siam. Open daily noon-11pm. YL17

ISAO — Japanese. $$$ Despite the standard izakaya facade, Isao offers something different—Japanese cuisine with American twists, thanks to the chef’s apprenticeship in Chicago. 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645/6. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm. ZC4

ZUMA — Japanese. $$$ The bar is made from a single, monumental slab of stone and the garden is air-conditioned. It’s all wonderfully glamorous and the salads and sushi are truly high class. G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-6360002. BTS Ratchadamri. Open Mon-Sat noon3pm, 6pm-10:30pm. YN18

L’APPART — French. $$$-$$$$ Imagine a grand Parisian apartment, which means parquet floors, burgundy wallpaper and lots of marble. The food is French cuisine with Thai touches. There’s also a bar with a particular focus on Champagne cocktails. 32/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sois 13 and 15), 02-1269999. Open daily 5pm-midnight. www.sofitel. com ZB2

LOWER SUKHUMVIT 11 GALLERY — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. ZB1 ABOVE ELEVEN — Fusion. $$$$ The twist of this rooftop bar and restaurant, apart from a great city view, is a concept that focuses on Nikkei cuisine: a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. 32/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-9300. Open daily 6pm-2am. www. aboveeleven.com SEVEN SEAS RESTAURANT — Seafood/European. $$$ You’ll find a variety of tasty Thai, seafood and Western dishes in a cozy setting with a pleasant outdoor terrace. Recommended dishes include the tom yum soup and steamed pomfret in soy and ginger. Sukhumvit Soi 4, 02-656-7881. Open daily 12:30pm –1:30am. ZC1 THE LOCAL — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef and co-owner Can Markawat keeps the focus on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find traditional recipes. They’re all served in 100-year-old house. They also run weekly cooking lessons. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm. ZA3

UPPER SUKHUMVIT Y PICK APPIA — Italian. $$$ Jarret Wrisley of the popular Soul Food Mahanakorn teams up with Chef Paolo Vitaletti who is firmly committed to his family food principle: to create wonderful Roman-style pastas. Also, expect a carefully curated wine selection. 20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-261-2056. Open daily 6-11pm. ZC4

LA BOTTEGA DI LUCA — Italian. $$$ A project of love for the well-traveled chef Luca Appino, this deli-cum-restaurant sticks to traditional recipes but stands out thanks to its distinct emphasis on fresh and, when possible, homemade ingredients. Terrace 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-204-1731. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 5pm-midnight; Mon 5:30pm-noon. ZB5

Y PICK MAYA — Indian. $$$ Housed in a

striking cantilevered structure on the roof of the Holiday Inn, this venue offers a choice of classic North Indian dishes, a cigar lounge and a DJ bar. Holiday Inn Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-683-4704. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 6pm-1am. www.mayathailand.com ZC4

NEAR EQUAL — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in a quaint house down a lovely leafy street. Upstairs the wood floors and antique pieces make for a delightful spot to enjoy well-balanced Thai dishes; then head downstairs to browse the selection of Thai furniture and handicrafts. 22/2 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-258-1564/5. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 5:30-9:30pm. ZC5

Y PICK QUINCE — International. $$$ Quince

goes for a casual and rustic ambiance that’s part industrial, part European country home. The kitchen’s focus is all about sustainability, ethical eating and local produce with down-toearth home cooking and a menu that changes frequently. Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478. Open daily 6-10pm. www.quincebangkok.com

ZC5

SMITH — International. $$$$ Set in a former furniture warehouse, it’s decked out in an elegant industrial theme, with walls lined with butcher’s tools. Chef Peter Pitakwong’s menu focuses on two things: locally-sourced ingredients and noseto-tail cooking. 1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-2610515. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. ZC5

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DINING THONGLOR/EKKAMAI LITTLE BEAST — International. $$-$$$ Owned by a group of best friends who met in New York, this stylish gastro bar serves French and New American cuisine. Enjoy the popular 15-hour lamb shoulder and creative cocktails in a 1920s-inspired space. 44/9-10 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2670. Open TueSun 5:30pm-1am. ZB5

Y PICK OPPOSITE MESS HALL — International. $$$ Chef Jess Barnes draws on both Mediterranean and Asian influences and focuses on local produce. The fuss-free nature of the place means dishes are often best eaten with your fingers and enjoyed with the homemade cocktails. 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02662-6330. Open Tue-Sun 7pm-midnight. ZC5

Y PICK PASTE — Thai. $$$ Jason Bailey takes his

inspiration from Thai royal cuisine. Everything here is homemade from locally-sourced ingredients completed with inventive techniques and artful presentation. 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-3924313. Open Wed-Sun noon-2:30pm, Tue-Sun 6pmmidnight. www.pastebangkok.com ZA5

PHUKET TOWN — Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional Southern-style dishes like kanom jeen namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw beans with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that features plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches. Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am10:30pm. ZC6

Y INDOOR ISAAN Three cool spots to sample Northeastern food more commonly found on the city’s sidewalks.

Somtum Der One of the first to bring street food into a more comfortable setting, it features arty touches and lots of blonde wood. The menu has a focus on somtam, a spicy Thai papaya salad, and other classic Northeastern (Isaan) dishes like laab moo tord (spicy pork balls) and kor moo yang (grilled pork neck). 5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am-10pm.

TOR UM TUM

Tor Um Tum Run by the same chef and in the same spot as the famous Isaan restaurant Tum Mour, a makeover now draws in a younger crowd to taste authentic Northeastern dishes like somtam Thai (papaya salad, B40), laab ped (spicy minced duck salad, B90) and yam nuea yang (spicy grilled beef salad, B90), while sipping on a Beerlao or Sapporo. Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02-714-3798, BTS Ekkamai. Open daily 11:30am-10pm.

Kai Yang Sua Yai by Mangmoom This colorful shophouse transports the dishes of a legendary local grilled chicken joint into a proper dining setting. Tuck into a whole chicken (B220), along with namprik pla ra (chili paste with fermented fish, B195) and somtam poo (papaya salad with freshwater crab, B95). Wash it down with Singha, fruit juice or wine by the glass. They offer about 15 vegetarian dishes, too. Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-6428. Open daily 11am-10pm.

SOMTUM DER

Y PICK SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM — Thai. $$

Set in a three-story shophouse, this Thai restaurant offers a cozy yet chic décor. The menu is based on what the owner’s grandmom used to cook—Thai food that borrows both from her hometown of Trat, and where the family now lives, Khon Kaen. 160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (between Thonglor Soi 6 and 8). Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm. ZC6

WATER LIBRARY — International. $$$$ A restaurant that serves a maximum of ten diners per night, with a 12-course set menu using the best ingredients prepared in front of you by an army of chefs. It’s very sophisticated, very sexy and while quite expensive, very memorable. There’s also a neighboring wine bar. Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, 02714-9292/-3. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am. ZB6

RIVERSIDE CHON — Thai. $$$$ Set in a beautiful Thai teak house overlooking the Chao Phraya River, Chon (“spoon” in Thai) has made a name for itself thanks to its authentic Thai food.The Siam Hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd., Dusit, 02-206-6999. Free shuttle boat from Central Pier. Open daily 6am-11pm. www.thesiamhotel. com. SALA RATTANAKOSIN — Thai/Western. $$$ This stylish riverside venue is where to indulge in Western and Thai creations while you feast your eyes on Wat Arun. Soi Ta Tien, Maharat Road, 02-622-1388. Tha Tien Pier. Open daily 7am-10pm. www.salarattanakosin.com. WP23 STEVE CAFÉ & CUISINE — Thai. $$ Located next to Thewet pier, Steve’s offers river views, a charming 60-year old wooden house, and spicy Southern dishes. 68 Soi Sri Ayuthaya 21 (Wat Devarajkoonchon), Sri Ayuthaya Road, 02-281-0915. Open 11:30am-11pm. www. stevecafeandcuisine.com MAY 2014 I W HER E THA ILA N D 21

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ART+ ATTRACTIONS ART GALLERIES 100 TONSON GALLERY — On top of its prime location, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, 02-684-1527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20 BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTRE — The city’s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art-related shops in its impressive 11-story structure. 939 Rama I Rd., Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am9pm. www.bacc.or.th YM16 H GALLERY — Set in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions representing emerging contemporary Asian artists. 201 Sathorn Soi 12, 081-310-4428. BTS Surasak. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm. www.hgallerybkk.com XH11 KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY — A four-floor gallery, which includes a speciality book store, focused on promoting the work of established and up-and-coming local photographers. 87 Soi Pan, Silom Road, 02-234-6700. Open TueSun 11am-7pm. www.kathmandu-bkk.com XI11 NATIONAL GALLERY — Housing traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century on. It’s looking its age but features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd., 02-2822639-40. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www. national-gallery.go.th WQ27 SERINDIA GALLERY — Run by the owner of a publishing company and housed in a colonial style former home, this beautiful gallery has regularly rotating exhibitions. O.P. Garden, Charoen Krung Soi 36, Charoenkrung Road, 02-238-6410. Open Tue-Sun 11am-8pm. www.serindiagallery.com XJ9

WHITESPACE GALLERY — Curated by talented contemporary Thai artist Maitree Siriboon, this gallery is a platform for young artists with more of an experimental, avant-garde leaning. 1 Sala Daeng Soi 1, 02-235-2500. MRT Lumphini. Open Wed-Sun noon-6pm. XF12

MUSEUMS JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses brought here from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. B100. www. jimthompsonhouse.com YM15 MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART — A private museum funded by a telcom tycoon, this is Thailand’s first major permanent modern art collection. Situated on the outskirts of town, MOCA’s works are mostly post-1990s, and are dominated by realist and surrealist depictions of rural life, religious Buddhist scenes and mythological motifs. Bejajinda Building, Wiphawadi-Rangsit Road, 02-953-1005/7. Open Mon-Sat 10am-6pm (last entry 5:15pm). www.mocabangkok.com MUSEUM SIAM — This completely restored colonial-style building is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-2252777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. B300. www. museumsiam.com WQ23

SILOM GALLERIA — This large mall houses a range of modern galleries. Highlights include Tang Contemporary Art, covering modern Chinese art; and Thavibu Gallery, featuring Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists. 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-266-5454. Mall is open daily 10am-8pm. XI10 SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — Both a shop and a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai artworks. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040. Open daily 9am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www. sombatpermpoongallery.com YL21 THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC) — Here, temporary exhibitions covering art, design and fashion are specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10:30am-9pm. www. tcdc.or.th ZC4 THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes. 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-281-5360/1. Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. WS27

Y BANGKOK ATTRACTIONS

THE ADLER SUBHASHOK GALLERY The Subhashok Art Center just joined forces with Parisian gallery Adler to create this new gallery. Its bold plan is to take Thai art global the way China did 10 years ago. That might sound overly ambitious, but the space and debut exhibitions are pretty impressive. Sat in a striking contemporary building, tucked into the depths of Sukhumvit Soi 33, the two vast floors of lofty exhibition space are encased in bare cement, with a wedge of glass on the façade meant to represent a stone cut in half. The gallery kicked off with an opening exhibition including leading Thai contemporary artists Kittikun Mankit, Michael Shaowanasai and Manit Sriwanichpoom, with more of the same planned for the future. 160/3 Sukhumvit Soi 33 (Daeng Udom), 02-662-0299. Open daily 10am-6pm. www. adler-subhashok-gallery-bkk.com ZA4

SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household features eight Thai-style houses that showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period along with prehistoric relics. Sri Ayudhya Road, 02-246-1775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www.suanpakkad.com

CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS

MOCA

NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous, if run down, property houses some of the most impressive architecture, art and antiques in the country. Na Phrathat Road, 02-215-8173. Open WedSun 9am-4pm. B50. www.nationalmuseums. finearts.go.th WQ27 ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM — Eight of the over 50 barges that make up the royal processions are displayed here. The must-see is the Suphannahong, or Golden Swan, with its huge, golden figurehead prow. 80/1 Arun Amarin Rd., Pinklao Bridge Pier, Thonburi, 02-4240004. Open daily 9am-5pm. Admission: B30. WP27

GRAND PALACE / WAT PHRA KAEO — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture. Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace is Wat Phra Kaeo, home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. Also, don’t miss the exquisite mural wall paintings found lining the compound walls. Na Phra Lan Road, Tha Chang Pier. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. Free English tours at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm. B400. WQ25 QUEEN SIRIKIT MUSEUM OF TEXTILES — This museum tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand. Highlights include the Queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading international designers.Ratsadakornbhibhathana Building, The Grand Palace, Na Phra Lan Road, 02-225-9420, Tha Chang Pier. Open daily 9am-4:30pm. B150.

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ART+ ATTRACTIONS RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL — This converted 1930s-era building is now an exhibition space featuring interactive presentations depicting life in Thailand during the current Rattanakosin Era. The cafe on the top floor also has a nice view of the old town. 100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-261-0044. Open Tue-Sun 10am-7pm. Adults B100, children under 120cm free. www. nitasrattanakosin.com. WR26 WAT ARUN (TEMPLE OF DAWN) — On the river’s edge, the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmerstyle tower) is decorated with millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means “morning” and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arunamarin Road, Wat Arun Pier. Open daily 8:30am-5pm. WP22 WAT PHO — Famous as both the home of the 46-meter-long reclining Buddha and as a center of traditional Thai massage, it even offers courses to learn for yourself. Sanamchai Road, Phra Nakhon. 02-225-4771, Tha Thien Pier. Open daily 8am-6pm. B100. www.watpomassage.com WQ24 WAT TRAIMIT WITTAYARAM — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the informative Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm.

ATTRACTIONS ART IN PARADISE BANGKOK — This threedimensional art museum officially opened in Bangkok this year. Created by 13 Korean artists, the art exhibited at the museum is presented in a 3D trompe l’oeils, allowing viewers to complete the various dramatic scenarios by posing for photos. 4/F, The Esplanade Mall, 99 Ratchadapisek Rd., 02-660-9130. MRT Thailand Cultural Center. Open daily 10am10pm (last entry 9pm). B300. www.facebook. com/artinparadisebangkok FLOW HOUSE — Flow House offers the chance to go surfing in the city thanks to a special machine that offers a similar experience to riding a real wave. It also features a bar, restaurant and shop specializing in water sports gear. Lessons available, prices cover board hire, showers and towels. A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-108-5210. Open Sun-Thu 8am-11pm; Fri-Sat 8am-midnight. From B550 per hour. www.flowhousebangkok.com MADAME TUSSAUDS — The famous wax work museum has made it to Bangkok and features a star-studded line up of incredibly life-like movie stars, politicians and sports figures drawn from all over the world. 6/F, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama I Rd., 02-658-0060. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-9pm. Tickets B800 adults, B600 children over 5. www.madametussauds.com/ bangkok YM16

SIAM OCEAN WORLD — Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. Highlights include the underwater tunnel and the glass bottom boat tour. Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Road, 02-687-2000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am10pm. B900 for adults, B700 for children. YM17

KIDS FUNARIUM — This giant indoor soft play area provides painting, crafts, bike riding, roller blading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas. 111/1 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-6656555. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, Fri-Sun 8:30am-8:30pm. B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults. Socks required. www.funarium.co.th KIDZOONA — Split into two main sections, Molly’s Gateway is a big arcade, while Kidzoona offers giant inflatables, a ball pit and the chance for children to dress up as builders, firemen, chefs and more. 5/F, Gateway Mall Ekkamai, 02-1082650/-52. BTS Ekkamai. Open daily 10am-9pm. B180-B330 for kids and B90 for adults. Socks required. ZD7 PLAYTIME — Dominated by a large play-gym area. There’s also a separate space for toddlers, a sandpit, ice skating rink, climbing wall, electric car track and a cafe upstairs. 3-4/F, Parklane Ekkamai, 02-382-0077. Open Mon-Thu 9am6pm, Fri-Sun 9am-7:30pm. B210-350 for kids and B110 for adults. www.playtime.co.th ZC7

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NIGHTLIFE Sugar Ray

Tucked away in a street that connects the nightlife hubs of Thonglor and Ekkamai, Sugar Ray is not easy to find but this tiny bar is certainly worth hunting down. Located on the second floor of small community mall Baan Ekkamai, above a clothing shop, the bar sits behind an imposing steel sliding door. The interior combines homey charm with a certain gentlemen’s club masculinity. The real draw are the cocktails, made by the mixologist Vipop “Tor” Jinaphan, who covers all the classics but adds twists both to the ingredients and techniques, whether it is infused syrups or handcrafted iceballs. Definitely the hottest new hipster hangout in the city. Baan Ekkamai, Ekkamai Soi 21. 086-547-4633. Open Wed, Fri-Sat 8pm-2am.

DOWNTOWN AXIS & SPIN — Split over the two top floors of this centrally located hotel, Axis & Spin offers up striking panoramic views and combines vintage decoration with modern design. Interesting cocktails and DJs, too. 38-39/F, The Continent Hotel, 413 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sukhumvit Soi 21-23), 02-686-7000. Open daily 6pm1am. http://tinyurl.com/ntak4oe ZC3 CLOUD 47 —The bar on the rooftop of the United Centre in the heart of Silom offers drinks at affordable prices in an airy setting. With its menu of pub snacks and white sofas, the place just asks for you to order drinks to share, from a draught beer to a tower of Absolut vodka. 47/F, United Center, Silom Rd. 091-889-9600. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight. XG10

FALABELLA — Located next to the city’s most exclusive sports club, Fallabella is popular with young affluent Thai professionals and celebrities. With a fun but sophisticated vibe there’s a choice between indoor and outdoor seating areas and a regular live band performing chill jazz and Thai-English songs. The restaurant serves up Italian dishes while the two-story Monkey Bar offers a good selection of cocktails. Royal Bangkok Sports Club, 100 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-252-5131. www. falabellabangkok.com YO18 HORIZONS — The final element of “Heaven,” a complex of restaurants that crowns the Zen Department Store, Horizons is a tapas bar which combines fusion cuisine, stunning views and great cocktails influenced by molecular techniques.19/F, Zen Department Store, Rama 1 Road, 02-101-0900. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.horizonsbangkok.com. YL18

Y PICK HYDE & SEEK — Elevated pub grub, one of Bangkok’s best cocktail menus and a décor that conjures up a delightful blend of Victorian drawing room style and NYC sophistication make for a winning combination. Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, 02-168-51523. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. www. hydeandseek.com YM21

KU DE TA— This sophisticated setting offers city views and a host of outlets: an intriguing cocktail list at KU Bar; an Aztec temple-theme at The Club; a contemporary Japanese tavern at Izakaya; while Signature serves up modern Asian fine-dining. 39-40/F, Sathorn Square Building, 98 North Sathorn Rd., 02-108-2005. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 6pm-midnight. www.kudeta.com XH12 LONG TABLE — One of the funkiest spots around thanks to its striking opulence: from the glittering entrance lights to the 24-meter dining table and even a swimming pool. But they all play second fiddle to the impressive view of Bangkok’s skyline from the spacious open-air terrace. 25/F, Column Building, 48 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-302-2557-9. Open daily 5pm-2am. www.longtablebangkok.com ZD3

Y PICK MAGGIE CHOO’S — Quirky styling

and surreal concepts like busts of Queen Victoria and a real-life noodle shop entrance help portray the story of a post-war Chinese lady, Maggie Choo, who opened a secret “speakeasy” bar in an old trading post’s bank vault. 320 Silom Rd., next to Novotel Fenix Silom, 02-635-6055. Open daily 7pm-2am. www.facebook.com/maggiechoos XJ10

MOON BAR — This sky-high open-air rooftop bar offers a panoramic view of the city, with telescopes on hand to provide close up views. Great for sunsets—arrive early to get one of the more comfortable seats. 61/F, Banyan Tree, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd., 02-679-1200. Open daily 5pm-1am. XF13 PARK SOCIETY — For a real breath of fresh air and a park view, head up to the top floor of this trendy hotel. Inside is fine dining while the rooftop is all about potent cocktails, lounge tunes and a great view. 29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.tinyurl.com/q7ucfa8 XF2

Y PICK SCARLETT — Perched on Pullman

Bangkok Hotel G’s top floor, this popular spot features an al fresco terrace with fantastic views, an extensive and affordable wine list, industrial bistro décor and interesting tapas options. 37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 02-238-1991. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 6pm-1am. www. tinyurl.com/ o3cc6tm. XH10

SKY BAR —One of the very first rooftop bars in the city it recieved an additional boost when it featured heavily in the Hangover II. The view over the low glass barrier surrounding the vertiginous circular bar is truly jaw dropping and not for the faint hearted, the cocktails help give you a head for heights. 63/F, The Dome at Lebua. 1055/42 Silom Rd., 02-624-9555. Open daily 6pm-1am. www.lebua.com XJ10

SUKHUMVIT SOI 11 APOTEKA — Features a 19th-century apothecaryinspired décor and a cocktail list featuring “antidotes” like Penicilin and Mr. Hyde. Regular live bands with a blues leaning. 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 090-626-7655. Open Mon-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am; Sun 3pm-midnight. ZA1

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NIGHTLIFE GRAMERCY PARK — Taking its inspiration from a New York park of the same name, it features lots of bright furniture in a garden vibe, plus graffiti by local artists. The place serves up ceviche, sushi and sashimi and refreshing cocktails like Summer Jardin and Togatta Stiletto. 35/F, Fraser Suites, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-1111. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZA1

LEVELS — Decked out with a huge LED chandelier above a circular bar and a bunch of monochrome sofas surrounding a sizeable dance floor, this cavernous venue aims for a rather swanky audiovisual clubbing experience. 6/F, Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246. Open daily 9pm-3am. www.levelsclub.com ZA1 NEST — Nest offers a perfect blend of sexy sophistication and chill out chic. Lay back on their super comfy daybeds while you enjoy the open air clubby vibe. Rooftop of LeFenix Hotel, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255-0638/9. Open daily 4pm-2am. www.nestbangkok.com ZA1 Q BAR— The Soi 11 institution delivers a heady mix of bass lines and international DJs downstairs but their 2nd floor, with a large outdoor patio, means it’s also a great spot to chill out with friends. Out back, Le Derriere serves up absinthe and oysters amidst a 1900s French decor. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-3274. Open daily 8pm-1am. www.qbarbangkok.com ZA1

MYST — Set on the rooftop of Grass overlooking the bustling street, the real draw of Myst is the impressive selection of creative cocktails like Myst’s signature Marshmallow. Rooftop, Grass Thonglor 12, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 080-770-9800. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. www.mystthonglor.com ZB6 OCTAVE — This multi-level rooftop bar and restaurant offers a stylish modern-industrial décor that is accentuated by great views over Sukhumvit from the top deck. The food menu is focused on Asian-themed bar snacks. 45/F, Marriott Bangkok Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000. Open daily 6pm-1am. www.facebook.com/octavemarriott ZC6 WINE REPUBLIC — They take their vino seriously here, with a wall of bottles and informed staff to talk you through your purchase. The dark spit-and-sawdust interior and breezy outdoor terrace get very busy on weekends. Thonglor Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7599. Open daily 5:30pm-1am. www. tinyurl.com/nlbxaay ZB6

Y PICK WTF — A collaboration between an art curator, a hip hotelier and a photojournalist, WTF is actually a hybrid bar and exhibition space that’s popular with Bangkok’s creative expats and local hipsters. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. www.wtfbangkok.com. ZC5

RIVERSIDE BAMBOO BAR — This venerable spot in this iconic hotel has been around forever but the music in the cosy L-shaped bar remains first rate and the drinks expertly poured. G/F, The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-6599000. THREE SIXTY — Located inside the oddlooking UFO-like structure at the top of the Millennium Hilton, this bar offers a 360-degree view to die for. Catch a free boat across the river from Central Pier and head up to the 32nd floor to enjoy a glass of wine and some easy-listening jazz. 32/F, Millennium Hilton, 123 Chareonnakorn Rd., 02-4422000. Open daily 5pm-1am. http://tinyurl. com/6qh8kpo VIVA & AVIV — Fitting for its riverside location, this venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nauticallyinspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive, well-made cocktails and bistro-style food. River City, 23 Yota Rd., 02-639-6305. Si Phaya Pier. Open daily 11ammidnight. www.vivaaviv.com

THONGLOR/EKKAMAI BADMOTEL — This formerly abandoned threestory building has been repainted all in white and offers a glasshouse style ground floor, a sizable courtyard and a low-key rooftop. They also regularly play host to gigs and art shows making it popular with Bangkok’s painfully hip. Next to J-Avenue, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-712-7288. Open daily 5pm-1am. www. facebook.com/badmotel ZA6

Y PICK IRON FAIRIES — Like no other bar in

Bangkok, it actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies. A great live band makes this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-8875. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. www.theironfairies.com ZB6

MELLOW — Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, moneyed locals, attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with its beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and decent cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am. ZA6 MIKKELER — Founded by the renowned ‘gypsy’ microbrewer from Denmark, this venue serves up a range of their unique and often limited edition craft beers in a modern-meetsrustic house-turned-bar. 26 Ekkamai Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 63 02-381-9891. Open daily 5pm-midnight. www.mikkellerbangkok.com ZB7

MOOSE — This revamped space above vintage furniture store offers a no-frills yet undeniably cool ambience plus regular live music that helps to draw in a very hip crowd. Ekkamai Soi 21, Sukhumvit Soi 63. Open daily 5pm-1am. www. facebook.com/MooseBangkok. MAY 2014 I W HER E THA ILA N D 25

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HEALTH + WELLNESS The High Spa

With its dark tones, metallic curtains and black and white photographs adorning the walls, this new spa offers a very sophisticated (and quite sexy) setting in which to relax. There are private, facial and Thai massage rooms, along with two VIP suites with hydrobaths to choose from. The spa offers a variety of a la carte and set treatments to suit your specific needs, with signature options including the High Miracle of Element Body Treatment (2 hours for B5,100), which includes a tourmaline body scrub and volcano mud mask, and the High Rejuvenating Facial (60mins for B2,200) that utilizes exfoliation and massage techniques to revitalize and rejuvenate your skin. 2/F The Ninth Tower Grand Rama 9, Ratchada-Rama 9 intersection, 089-697-9151. MRT Rama 9. www.thehighspa.com

SPA Y PICK AWAY SPA — Beds glow softly in your

choice of green, red, purple or pink, while the dim, labyrinthine halls induce an almost meditative mood. Treatments range from a onehour aroma massage and detox to a four-hand mineral scrub and oil massage. Finally, the Style Lab offers mani, pedi and grooming services. 6/F, W Bangkok, North Sathorn Road, 02-3444000 ext. 4160. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.wbangkok.com XH12

ELEMIS SPA — The Elemis Spa is the brand’s first in Southeast Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the Arabian sauna in the Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Road, 02-207-7777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am-10pm. www. stregis.com/bangkok YN18

contemporary design, traditional touches and holistic treatments, from a precious stones detox to mind rejuvenation workshops. 83/27 Witthayu Soi 1, Wireless Road, 02-252-7988. Open daily 10am-11pm. www.bhawaspa.com

YN20

DEVARANA SPA — The impressive white lobby has an almost heavenly quality, while the 14 individual spa rooms are little sanctuaries to enjoy a range of treatments from milk baths to body scrubs. Dusit Thani, 946 Rama IV Rd., 02-636-3596. Open daily 9am-10pm. www. devaranaspa.com XF10 DIVANA VIRTUE SPA — Tucked down a small soi close to Silom, this spa is authentic yet homey. Situated in a century-old house, decked out in a traditional Rama V style, it sits among a small yet lush garden to create a very private and calming atmosphere. 120 North Sathorn Rd., 02-637-8883. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 9am-11pm. www.divana-dvn.com XG13

its classy residential cottages and treatment bungalows, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a full fitness club with squash courts and pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am-11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com

YN18

LE SPA WITH L’OCCITANE — Thailand’s first Le Spa with L’Occitane boasts a modern Thai style combined with elegant French touches. Treatments include the Golden Siamese Massage and Four Teas Ceremony. 9/F, Sofitel Bangkok, 189 Sukhumvit Rd., between Soi 13-15, 02-126-9999. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Nana. http://tinyurl.com/lmbgdnz ZB2

Y PICK BHAWA SPA — This spa blends

BODY TUNE — The “menu” here is short, sweet and to the point: foot reflexology, hand, Thai and oil massage. But what they do, they do well. We prefer to visit the quieter Silom branch. 2/F, Yada Bldg., 56 Silom Rd., 02-238-4377. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 10am-midnight. More branches: www.bodytune.co.th XG10

Y PICK I.SAWAN — With its chic design and

ELEMIS SPA

HEALTH LAND — Health Land has built its sizeable reputation on a blend of affordable prices, expert masseuses and select surroundings. Lots of branches throughout town also helps. 120 North Sathorn Rd., 02-6378883. Open daily 9am-11pm. More branches: www.healthlandspa.com XH12 I SPA — The treatments offered at this modern spa sanctuary are based on therapies from China, India, Japan and Thailand, using five choices of essential oils based on Asian flowers and herbs. 9/F, The Landmark Bangkok, 138 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-252-9444. BTS Nana. Open daily 10am10pm. www.ispathailand.com ZC1

LET’S RELAX — With branches around Thailand, and a wide range of packages and trained masseuses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-6626935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight. More branches: www. letsrelaxspa.com ZB3 MULBERRY SPA — Set in a 60s-style residential compound, Mulberry Spa offers the usual selection of treatments amid a classy-yet-cozy ambiance. 132 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1888. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 9am-11pm. More branches: www.mulberryspa.com ZB3 OKURA SPA — Situated in a contemporary oriental space, guests can enjoy stress-relieving therapies in five relaxing treatment rooms. Try the signature Okura Take Relief bamboo massage where therapists roll a warm bamboo pole over your muscles as part of an aroma oil massage. 25/F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Ploenchit Road, 02-687-9000. BTS Ploenchit. Open daily 10am-10pm. http://tinyurl.com/ kdyc2ln YM20

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HEALTH + WELLNESS Y PICK PANPURI ORGANIC SPA — Hidden

behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of this luxury spa. Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Road, 02-656-1199. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.panpuri.com YM18

S MEDICAL SPA — Founded by a renowned local anti-aging physician, the award-winning spa serves up real beauty from within, with a selection of integrated wellness programs. 2/2 Bhakdi Bldg., Wireless Road, 02-253-1010. BTS Ploenchit. Open daily 10am-9pm. www. smedspa.com. YL20

Y PICK SIX SENSES SPA — This famous hotel

chain’s spa sports plenty of wood, for that natural connection, but also boasts great views. Treatments come with a consultation with the spa director to help you select the aesthetic and therapeutic options. 30/F, Two Pacific Place, 142 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-653-2450. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Sat 7am-10pm, Sun 9am-6pm. www.sixsenses.com ZB1

SO SPA — Perched on the 11th floor of the cuttingedge Sofitel So, it offers the added bonus of a relaxing view over the greenery of Lumphini Park, amid its own soothingly lit, forest-themed décor. Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 Sathorn Nua Rd., 02-624-0000. www.sofitel-so-bangkok.com XF12

SPA BOTANICA — Surrounded by the lush gardens of the Sukothai Hotel, Spa Botanica is a true urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best of oriental massage options. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd., 02-2344-8900. Open daily 9am10pm. www.sukhothai.com XG13

THE ORIENTAL SPA — The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. G/F, The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-6599000. Open daily 9am-10pm. http://tinyurl. com/q4h9oqz XJ9 SIX SENSES SPA

SOOK SABAI HEALTH MASSAGE — Conveniently located, the French-Indochinese vintage-inspired spa offers a range of treatments from traditional Thai to Balinese massages. 3-4/F, YJA Building, Soi Saladaeng 1, Silom Rd., 02-637-5575. Open daily 10am–10.30pm. www.sooksabaispa.com XF11

YUNOMORI ONSEN & SPA — Bangkok’s first authentic onsen (hot spring bath house) features water sourced from a hot spring in Ranong, in Southern Thailand. As with traditional onsens in Japan, bathing is done in the nude, though there are separate baths for men and women. A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-259-5778. Open daily 10:30-midnight. www.yunomorionsen.com

SPA@TONSON — This resort-style spa includes nine treatment rooms and utilizes ancient Asian healing techniques through a range of treatments. 5F, Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, 02-658-7980. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-9pm. www. spatonson.com YN20 THANN SANCTUARY SPA — Their treatments use locally-made spa products and are offered within a tranquil space. 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Road, 02-656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.thann.info YM18

TRIA — Tria is not just a spa: this sanctuary behind Piyavate Hospital is a rejuvenation center offering integrated programs. With over 50 treatment rooms, there are also hydrotherapy pools, a restaurant and residences for long-term stays. 998 Ronkhlongsamsen Rd.,02-660-2602. Open Mon-Fri 7am-10pm. Closes Sat 9pm, Sun 8:30pm. www.triaintegrativewellness.com URBAN RETREAT — Urban Retreat’s various branches offer relaxing havens from the city bustle in the middle of town. 31/10 Soi Phromjai, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-204-2008. Open daily 10am-10pm. More branches: www. urbanretreatspa.net ZA4

YUNOMORI ONSEN SPA

AESTHETIC CLINICS APEX SKIN CENTER — If you’re trying to solve some skin issues, check out this well established and popular skin center for state-of-the-art treatments from Botox to micro-dermabrasion. 3/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-644-8613/-4. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am-9pm. More branches: www.apexskincenter.com ZC6 ASTER SPRING — This international chain of skin care and health spas combines German techniques and products to provide effective facial and body treatments. The philosophy here is nofrills and no-nonsense, just good skin products that offer real results. L/F, Gaysorn, Ratchadamri Road, 02-656-1421/2. BTS Chidlom. Open daily 10am9pm. www.asterspringthailand.com YM18 PUTTHARAKSA — From non-invasive face lifts to the derma roller regeneration treatment, their aesthetic care is all about helping your body heal itself. Get further support through their anti-aging treatments. 1535 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-6336. BTS Phrakhanong. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-9pm, Sun noon-6pm. www.puttharaksaclinic.com

WHERE SPECIAL | Wellness

Sook Sabai Health Massage

Sook Sabai Health Massage is an oasis in the modern jungle that takes you back to the golden era of China’s Qin dynasty and its indulgent palaces. Lounge in a couch, recover from the heat and your busy lifestyle with a refreshing drink, and choose to enjoy one of our treatments. Our skillful therapists promise to deliver the best indulgence for your utmost relaxation. Get to enjoy the Sook Sabai experience everyday, from 10:00am – 10:30pm. Sook Sabai Health Massage, 23/13-14 YJA Building 3rd Floor, Soi Saladaeng 1, Silom Rd., Bangrak, Bangkok. For reservations, call 02-637-5575. Email : info@sooksabaispa.com. www.sooksabaispa.com

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SHOPS+SERVICES DOWNTOWN AMARIN PLAZA — The mall’s Greco-Roman façade actually hides some unexpected gems. ID1 on the first floor holds a collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs. 496-502 Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-4704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com YM18

Y SPOTLIGHT

AMARIN PLAZA

CENTRALWORLD — This massive complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000-sq-meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for high-street brands like Topshop, Gap and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites and also houses an Isetan Department Store. Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Road, 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www. centralworld.co.th YM18 CENTRAL CHIDLOM — Opened in 1973, it’s the closest thing Bangkok has to Harrods, and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. It’s packed with leading brands, like Ralph Lauren, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the great views from the seventh-floor food court. 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th YM19 ERAWAN BANGKOK — This mini-mall might look petite, but it offers high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including Comme des Garçons, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Lanvin and Alexander Wang. 494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com YM18 GAYSORN — Thailand’s leading high-end mall is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, and Fendi) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1149. BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com YM18 MBK CENTER — Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and all at bargain prices. As a result,the chaotic MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good quality. Still, it’s a lot of fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the sixth floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www.mbk-center.co.th YM16

Asiatique This evening-only (from 4pm) shopping center on the banks of the Chao Phraya River is themed according to the city’s old architecture. Divided into sections ranging from the waterfront to a 100year old refurbished sawmill, it includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashions and intriguing souvenirs, plus offers a variety of eateries and wine bars. Asiatique is also home to a large ferris wheel, the Calypso Cabaret, Joe Louis puppet theater and the dramatic new show Muay Thai Live. 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488. www.asiatiquethailand.com.

PLATINUM FASHION MALL — Platinum is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashion-related from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even single items come very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. www.platinumfashionmall.com YK18 SIAM CENTER — Reopened after a major renovation, it offers new inspirational spaces for art and design, befitting its reputation at the vanguard of the local fashion scene. The highlight is the Fashion Visionary space on the third floor, home to the flagship stores of top Thai designers and multi-Thai-label store The Selected. Rama 1 Road, 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamcenter.co.th YM16 SIAM DISCOVERY — The sister mall of Siam Center celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul in 2011, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussaud’s wax museum. Rama 1 Road, 02658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamdiscovery. co.th YM16 SIAM PARAGON — With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like H&M and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a multi-screen cinema. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www. siamparagon.co.th YM17

ZEN — Actually part of the sprawling CentralWorld complex, this trendy department store stands apart thanks to its focus on cutting-edge fashion, leading labels and high-end home decor. 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd., Pathumwan, 02-100-9999. BTS Siam/ Chit Lom. www.zen.co.th YL18

SUKHUMVIT TERMINAL 21 — Boasting an airport terminalcum-international destinations theme, the nine floors let you stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the upper floors offer intriguing boutiques by Thai designers. There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21.co.th ZB3 THE EMPORIUM — Set in the heart of an upscale residential area, The Emporium offers luxury shopping from brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Dior and Celine, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal and Jim Thompson. There are also lots of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative & Design Center on the top floor. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www.emporiumthailand.com ZC4

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SHOPS+SERVICES

MARKETS CHATUCHAK MARKET — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is a vast weekend market. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections, roughly categorized by the products each section offers. You can literally spend days amid the warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 1024 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home-decor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/ Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-5pm.

CHATUCHAK MARKET

TALAD ROD FAI (TRAIN MARKET) — The popular “Talad Rotfai” or train market has found its feet at its new location behind the Seacon Square Shopping Mall. Featuring a large number of vintage shops, cool bars with live music and food stalls in a retro setting, the massive weekend night market is packed with character and a hit with shoppers looking to find vintage items. The market is open on Wednesday, and Friday to Sunday from about 6pm to midnight. Get the BTS to Udomsuk Station and then take a taxi. Sri Nakarin Soi 51, 081-827-5885.

ELSEWHERE OP PLACE — Situated in a beautiful neoclassicalstyle building close to the river, this luxury mall oozes charm from the sweeping wooden staircase to the antique lift. It’s home to a host of high-end boutiques offering unique and rare antiques and artifacts from across Southeast Asia, handcrafted jewelry, bespoke tailors and fine art. There’s also a free shuttle service to the nearby OP Garden, which houses art galleries, restaurants and high-end boutiques. 30/1 Charoenkrung Soi 38, 02-266-0186. XJ9 RIVER CITY — Situated right on the river, the third and fourth floors of this mall are packed with boutique stores selling the very best in Thai and Southeast Asian art, antiques and artefacts. Once you’re done shopping, you can also take advantage of the collection of bars and restaurants on the ground floor, which offer great river views out on the terrace. Yotha Road, 02-237-0077. Si Phraya Pier. www. therivercity.com. MAY 2014 I W HER E THA ILA N D 29

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BANGKOK

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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

30 W H E R E T H A I L AND I MAY 2 0 1 4

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Soi Sukhumvit 3 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 3

9 2

1. Apoteka A1 2. Axis & Spin C3 3. Bad Motel A6 4. Bangkok Betty C4 5. BeerVault B2 6. Long Table D3 7. Clouds B6 8. Fat Gutz B6 9. Gramercy Park A1 10. Iron Fairies B6 11. Levels A1 12. Mellow B6 13. Mikkeller B7 14. Myst B6 15. Nest A1 16. Octave C6 17. Perfume C6 18. Potion B4 19. Q Bar/Le Derriere A1 20. WTF C5 21. Wine Republic B6

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (klong) still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or

1. Apex C6 2. Chillax Spa B4 3. Dermaster A7 4. I SPA Landmark C1 5. Oasis Spa C5 6. Le Spa B2 7. Let’s Relax B3 8. Mulberry Spa B3 9. S Sense Spa C7 10. Six Senses Spa B1 11. The Face D7 12. Urban Retreat A4

Nightlife

Soi Sukhumvit 49 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 49

CANAL BOATS—While Bangkok

Health & Wellness

26. Supanniga Eating Room C6 27. The Local A3 28. Water Library B6 29. Xuan Mai A6 30. Cellar 11 A1

1. 11 Gallery B1 2. Above Eleven A1 3. Appia C4 4. Bacco C6 5. Bo.Lan D5 6. El Lugar A3 7. Elysian Teahouse B5 8. Indus E5 9. Isao C4 10. Khun Churn D7 11. L’Appart B2 12. La Bottega Di Luca B5 13. Little Beast B5 14. Maverick B3 15. Maya C6 16. Near Equal C5 17. Opposite Mess Hall C5 18. Oskar Bistro A1 19. Paste A5 20. Phuket Town C6 21. Scalini C5 22. Seven Seas C1 23. Quince C5 24. Smith C5 25. Soul Food Mahanakorn C6

Soi Sukhumvit 55 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 55

the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically-challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.

Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 34

AIRPORT LINK—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (tenminute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B90 one-way and B150 roundtrip for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.

BANGKOK

NAVIGATE 8

Chamchuri Square ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ

11 Lumpini Park ÊÇ¹ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

TO NATIONAL STADIUM STATION

Si Lom ÊÕÅÁ

Chulalongkorn Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅ¨Ø¿ÒÅ§¡Ã³

12 ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

Rama 4 Rd.

¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 4

Sala Daeng

Jim Thompson

Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§

ÈÒÅÒá´§

Silom Soi 2

6 7

2 Silom Complex

Thaniya Plaza ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ

Soi Convent «ÍÂ¤Í¹áÇ¹µ

¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÇ§È

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

Si Lom Rd.

Silom Soi 4

Chong Nonsi ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ

STATIO

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42 6

Chit

TO BEARING STATION

St. Louis Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅà«¹µ ËÅØÂÊ

Surasak ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ 1

Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡ÃØ§

Saphan Taksin ÊÐ¾Ò¹µÒ¡ÊÔ¹

10 OP Place

Oriental Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕÂ¹àµÅ

Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã TO BANG WA STATION

1. Blue Elephant I13 2. Chef Man I13 3. Eat Me G11 4. Jim Thompson H8 5. La Scala F13 P 6. Le Du G11 7. Le Normandie J9 8. Nahm G13 Memorial Bridge 9. Rice&Chili I13Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÐ¾Ò¹¾Ø·¸ 10. Ruen Urai G8 11. Sensi G14 12. Somtum Der F11 13. 661 Silom I11

Nightlife

Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃÒªÇ§¤

Soi Ruam Rudi «ÍÂ Ã‹ÇÁÄ´Õ

9 9 3

City Viva

Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢

Dining

Pan Rd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹

Soi Silom 19 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 7

Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ 5

2 3

10 3

àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

rminal ÁÑÂ

Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์

Ekkamai

EARIN G

TO B

TO BANG SUE STATION

5 5 9

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·ÃãµŒ

Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·ÃàË¹×Í

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

10 11

SILOM14

Lumphini

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS—25These fast and 24

frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a Wat Arun Tha Tien Piergreat way to get a different perspective on Tha the·‹Phrachan city,Pier ÇÑ´ÍÃØ³ 4. Devarana Spa F10 Ò¾ÃÐ¨Ñ¹·Ã ·‹ÒàµÕÂ¹ as well as a good option for getting to many of the 5. Divana Virtue Spa I12 temples and palaces built along the river. The main 6. Health Land H123 Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan 7. So SPA F12 6 1 Taksin with boats heading upstream from here 8. Sook Sabai F11 and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to 9. Spa Botanica G13 10. The Oriental Nonthaburi. Fares range from 9 B15 to B42 depend1 1 Spa J9 ing on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket Wat Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ Wat Po ÇÑ´â¾¸Ô์ (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and Shopping 2 1. Jim Thompson F8 comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading 2. OP Place J9 tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferArt & Attractions 1. Artery Post-Modern Wat Rajapardit ries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique. ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃÐ´ÔÉ°

Gallery I11 2. Art In Effect F12 3. 338 OIDA F14 4. H Gallery H11 5. Kathmandu Photo Gallery I11 6. Serindia Gallery J9 7. Silom Galleria: CVN/Number 1 R Health & Wellness Gallery/Thavibu/ Tang Gallery I10 1. Away Spa H12 IndiaËŒEmporium Ò§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ The Old Siam Plaza ÂÁ White Space 2. Body Tune G10 ÍÔ¹à´ÕÂ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕ8. ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ Gallery F12 3. Borisud Pure Spa China World ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒä«¹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´ B I12 urap a 1. Cloud 47 G10 2. DJ Station F9 3. Ku De Ta H12 4. Maggie Choo’s J10 5. Park Society F12 6. Scarlett H10 7. Theatre Bar I12 8. Woo Bar H12

32 W H E R E T H A I L AND I MAY 2 0 1 4 S

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND—The

BTS skytrain Wat stops at Bangkok’s main districts and Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·ÑÈ¹ gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom Line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two Rd. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are ¶¹lines. ¹ºÙÃ¾ Ò B130.

The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an 26 27 28 extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) on Wang the Lang outskirts of Chinatown, down through the Pier âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅÈÔÃÔÃÒª ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇÑ§ËÅÑ§ » ÂÁËÒÃÒª¡ÒÃØ³Â main Central Business District6 before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asok—MRT 4 Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng—MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. 1

Tickets can be bought3 for individual journeys, 5 Phra Athit Pier or you can get special one-day tourist passes or ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For Chana Songkram more information,Watgo to www.bts.co.th and www. ÇÑ´ª¹ÐÊ§¤ÃÒÁ bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems. Police Station Ê¶Ò¹ÕµÓÃÇ¨

TAXIS—In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes Democracy try toMonument negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the Í¹ØÊÒÇÃÕÂ »ÃÐªÒ¸Ô»äµÂ metered price. There are now also a number of 5 mobile phone applications and services for those Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò

Wat Saket ÇÑ´ÊÃÐà¡µØ

Navigate_MAY_2014_NEW_1.indd 32

4/25/14 2:55 PM

Chamchuri Square ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ

ÊÕÅÁ

Chulalongkorn Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅ¨Ø¿ÒÅ§¡Ã³

2 F

Jim Thompson

¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 4

Sala Daeng

Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§

ÈÒÅÒá´§

Silom Soi 2

6 7

2 Silom Complex

Thaniya Plaza ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ

àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

STATIO

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

EARIN G

NAVIGATE

¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

Si Lom Rd.

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·ÃãµŒ

Ekkamai

TO B

BANGKOK

of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great erally from 8:30am to 3:30pm, Monday through 3 1 photo opportunities.6 However, they are no guaranFriday except on public holidays and bank holidays. tee of beating the infamous traffic and you should Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm. agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but ATMS—ATMs are very common in Bangkok and be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์ can be found in most areas of Thailand, often lounexpected trip to a tailor or gem store. cated outside of 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be10able to use overseas cards to withdraw money. VAT REFUNDS—Visitors Thailand who ChongtoNonsi ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ 1 make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over 3 4 City Viva from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR 6 7 TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase St. Louis Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅà«¹µ ËÅØÂÊ the item present your passport and¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ ask the sales Pramuan Rd. 5 5 5. Rattanakosin assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Dining 2 Exhibition Hall S26 Rd. ¶¹¹»˜ œ¹ 1. Eat Sight Story P23 Application for TouristsPan form, attaching the original 13 6. Royal Barge 2. Supatra Riverside P26 1 Surasak 9 tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and Museum P27 ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ P23 3. Sala Rattanakosin 9 Soi Silom 19 «ÍÂÊÕ ÅÁ 19 your goods and the before you check-in, present 1 7. The Queen’s 4. Seven Spoons T27 3 7 Gallery S27 refund form to customs officers to get your form 5. Sheepshank Q27 Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢ Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ 8. Wat Arun 6. The Deck P23 stamped. After check-inSurasak and immigration, proceed (Temple of Dawn) P22 4 to the VAT 8 Refund Office in the departure lounge. Art & Attractions 9. Wat Phra Kaeo 1. Grand Palace/MuRefund amounts under B30,000, will be made in (Temple of the Emerald Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡ÃØ§ Saphan seum of Textiles Q25 Taksin Buddha) Q25 cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to 7 ÊÐ¾Ò¹µÒ¡ÊÔ¹ 2. Museum Siam Q23 10. Wat Po Q24 your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000, 3. National Gallery Q27 10 6 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit Nightlife OP Place 4. National Museum Oriental Pier Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕÂ¹àµÅ 1. Babble & Rum Q27 ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã Q27 card account.

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÇ§È

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

TO BANG SUE STATION

5 5 9

BANKING HOURS—Banking hours11 are gen-

Soi Convent «ÍÂ¤Í¹áÇ¹µ TUK-TUKS—Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way

who want to hail a cab without having to hit the Silom Soi 4 streets. The three main apps to check out are Easy Taxi 10 (www.facebook.com/EasyTaxiThai), Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand/) and G Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok). All of 4 these are in English language and charge a small fee for ordering the taxi or private car through the application.

erminal ¡ÁÑÂ

ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·ÃàË¹×Í

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

10 11

Lumphini

Rama 4 Rd.

TO BANG WA STATION

Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃØ³

2 Tha Phrachan Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃÐ¨Ñ¹·Ã

Tha Tien Pier ·‹ÒàµÕÂ¹

6 1

RATTANAKOSIN28

Wang Lang Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇÑ§ËÅÑ§

Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅÈÔÃÔÃÒª » ÂÁËÒÃÒª¡ÒÃØ³Â

P 1

1 Memorial Bridge Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÐ¾Ò¹¾Ø·¸

Wat Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ

Wat Po ÇÑ´â¾¸Ô์

1 3

Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃÒªÇ§¤

Phra Athit Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

Wat Chana Songkram ÇÑ´ª¹ÐÊ§¤ÃÒÁ

Wat Rajapardit ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃÐ´ÔÉ°

Chit

Wat Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·ÑÈ¹

Police Station Ê¶Ò¹ÕµÓÃÇ¨

TO BEARING STATION

8 2 3

Soi Ruam Rudi «ÍÂ Ã‹ÇÁÄ´Õ

11 Lumpini Park ÊÇ¹ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

TO NATIONAL STADIUM STATION

Si Lom

India Emporium ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ÍÔ¹à´ÕÂ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ

The Old Siam Plaza ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ China World ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒä«¹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´

Democracy Monument

Bura

pa R

Í¹ØÊÒÇÃÕÂ »ÃÐªÒ¸Ô»äµÂ

d. ¶¹

¹ºÙÃ¾

Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò

Wat Saket ÇÑ´ÊÃÐà¡µØ

MAY 2014 I W HER E THA ILA N D 33

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Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

Soi Sukhumvit 38

Ê¶Ò¹Õ¢¹Ê‹§àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

Soi Sukhumvit 40 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

ÊÇ¹ÊÒ¸ÒÃ³àºÞ¨¡ÔµµÔ

Soi

Queen Sirikit National Convention Center ÈÙ¹Â »ÃÐªØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Benchakitti Park

Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢Ø

NAVIGATE

Soi Sukhumvit 26 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

BANGKOK

Soi Sukhumvit 24 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁ

Soi

Soi Sukhum

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

TO MO CHIT STATION

18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ

SIAM21

Ratchathewi Platinum Mall á¾ÅµµÔ¹ÑÁ ÁÍÅÅ

11 1

L 4 2

Siam Discovery ÊÂÒÁ´ÔÊ¤Ñ¿àÇÍÃÕ่

Siam Center ÊÂÒÁà«็¹àµÍÃ

Central World à«็¹·ÃÑÅàÇÔÃ Å´

5 Siam Paragon ÊÂÒÁ¾ÒÃÒ¡Í¹

2,7,12 9

Wat Patum Wanaram ÇÑ´»·ØÁÇ¹ÒÃÒÁ

ZEN à«็¹

Gaysorn ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒà¡ÉÃ

Chit Lom ªÔ´ÅÁ

Memorial Brid ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÐ¾

Phloen Chit

Central Chidlom ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à«็¹·ÃÑÅªÔ´ÅÁ

à¾ÅÔ¹¨Ôµ

¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 1

Digital Gateway ´Ô¨ÔµÍÅà¡็µàÇÂ

Royal Thai Police ÊÓ¹Ñ¡§Ò¹µÓÃÇ¨áË‹§ªÒµÔ

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS Emergency Services (Fire Brigade, Police) 191 Airport Rail Link 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th Bangkok Mass Transit System (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th BTS Tourist Information Center : 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th

Henri Dunant Rd. ¶¹¹ ÍÑ§ÃÕ´Ù¹ÑÇµ

Phaya Thai Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÞÒä·

Amarin Plaza Erawan Bangkok ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒÍÑÁÃÔ¹·Ã ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒàÍÃÒÇÑ¹

General Police Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅµÓÃÇ¨

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

3 6

Ratchadamri

Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ

ÊÂÒÁ

MBK ÁÒºØÞ¤ÃÍ§

Soi Tonson «ÍÂ µŒ¹Ê¹

TO BEARING STATION

Siam Soi Lang Suan «ÍÂ ËÅÑ§ÊÇ¹

Ê¹ÒÁ¡ÕÌÒáË‹§ªÒµÔ

8 2 3

ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃÒªÇ§¤

Rama 1 Rd.

National Stadium

Soi Ruam Rudi «ÍÂ Ã‹ÇÁÄ´Õ

Chit Lom Rd. ¶¹¹ªÔ´ÅÁ

Ratchadamri Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ

Pantip Plaza ¾Ñ¹·Ô¾Â ¾ÅÒ«‹Ò

Soi Som Khit «ÍÂÊÁ¤Ô´

ÃÒªà·ÇÕ

S 5

Sarasin Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒÃÊÔ¹

TO BANG WA

Bangkok Metro (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6ammidnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th Chao Phraya Express Boat Call Center 02-623-60013 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com Suvanbhumi International Airport 1722/02-1321888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) – 1672. www.tourismthailand.org Tourist Police 24-hour call center 1155

Dining

1. Bawarchi M18 2. Le Beaulieu N21 3. Elements M20 4. Erawan Tea Room N18 5. Gaggan O19 6. Jim Thompson Restaurant & Bar L15 7. Kisara/Reflexions N21 8. La Monita Taqueria M21 9. Shintori/Ying Yang/ Zense/Horizons M18 10. Shintaro N18 11. Sra Bua L17 12. Zuma N18

Nightlife

1. Falabella O18 2. Hyde & Seek M21 3. Le Bar by Le Beaulieu N21 4. The Speakeasy N19 5. The St Regis Bar N18

Health & Wellness 1. Aveda M17 2. Aster Spring M18 3. Bhawa N21 4. Elemis Spa N18 5. i.Sawan N18 6. Panpuri Spa M18 7. Rarinjinda N19

8. Romrawin M19 9. S Medical Spa L20 10. Spa@Tonson N20 11. Thann Sanctuary Spa M18

Shopping

1. Amarin Plaza M18 2. Central Chidlom M19 3. CentralWorld M18 4. Erawan Bangkok M18 5. Gaysorn M18 6. MBK Center M16 7. Pantip Plaza K17 8. Platinum Mall K18 9. Siam Center/Siam Discovery M16 10. Siam Paragon M17 11. ZEN L18

Art & Attractions

1. 100 Tonson Gallery N20 2. Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) M16 3. Jim Thompson Art Center & House L1 5 4. Madame Tussauds M16 5. Siam Ocean World M17 6. Sombat Permpoon Gallery L21

34 W H E R E T H A I L AND I MAY 2 0 1 4

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Thailand

@1 1 Playing 18 holes on the challenging 6 Getting a fun and interactive but beautiful championship level golf course at the Black Mountain Golf Club (www.blackmountainhuahin. com) in Hua Hin.

2 Experiencing the stylish luxury at the Iniala Beach House (www. iniala.com) on Natai Beach, Phang Nga, which offers three exquisitely designed villas and one penthouse. 3 Catching the train from Bangkok to Ayutthaya, Thailand’s former capital city and home to numerous ancient temples like Wat Phra Mahthat and Wat Maheyong. 4 Browsing for luxury fashion brands at the countless boutiques and high-end malls of Ratchaprasong Avenue (BTS Siam).

lesson on Thainess at the Museum of Siam (www.museumsiam.com).

7 Staying overnight at one of the boathouse rafts on Cheow Larn Lake in the stunning Kao Sok National Park in Phanga province. 8 Sampling authentic Thai dishes served up at Nahm at the Metropolitan Hotel in Bangkok (http://tinyurl.com/l7py6wg), recently voted Asia’s top restaurant. 9 Checking into one of the spa cottages for a full day of pampering and treatments at the beautifully appointed I.Sawan Residential Spa & Club (http://tinyurl.com/ktc7cry) at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok. !0 Strolling down Phuket Town’s

5 Exploring the idyllic uninhabited tropical islands in the 102-sq-km Angthong Marine National Park, a mere 20-minute boat ride from Koh Samui.

heritage trail and experiencing the unique Baba-Nyonya architecture.

!2 Drinking in the cityscape view

!7 Rummaging for everything from

from the al fresco bar of Park Society (www.sofitel.com) on top of the swanky Sofitel So Hotel overlooking Lumpini Park.

edgy fashion to teakwood furniture at the world’s largest weekend market, Chatuchak (JJ) Market (MRT Kamphaeng Phet).

!3 Admiring the work of established

!8 Splashing around on the slides

and emerging Thai and international artists at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BTS National Stadium, www.bacc.or.th).

and chutes at the Santorini Water Fantasy (555 Phetkasem Rd., Cha-Am, 032-772-999, www. santoriniparkchaam.com) in Cha-am.

!4 Watching the sun come up on

!9 Exploring Bangkok’s Chinatown

the top of Phu Kradeung (www.dnp. go.th) in Loei, with the breathtaking views as backdrop. This spectacular plateau is one of Thailand’s most famous hiking sites.

and learning about the history of the early Chinese immigrants to Bangkok, then sampling authentic dishes at various stalls in the vibrant neighborhood.

!5 Learning how to whip up some authentic Thai food and supporting a worthwhile local charity at the Helping Hands Cooking School run by Chef Saiyuud “Poo” Diwong (084-901-8717. www. cookingwithpoo.com).

@0 Getting up close to a gentle

!1 Getting a glimpse of what Bangkok used to be like with a klong tour around the canals (klongs) of Thonburi.

giant by volunteering for a day or staying overnight at the Elephant Nature Foundation (www. elephantnaturefoundation.org) in Mae Sa district, Chiang Mai.

@1 Admiring the authentic !6 Experiencing the natural beauty of the Andaman Sea, kayaking through the mangrove forests, caves and blue lagoons off the coast of Krabi province. Try www.seacanoe.net, who offer a wide range of tours.

collectibles and the Art Decoinspired style created by famous architect Bill Bensley at The Siam (www.thesiamhotel.com) in Bangkok.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore

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