Where® Thailand December 2014

Thailand

PLUS

DECEMBER 2014 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

®

WWW.WHE R E T H A I L A N D.C O M

OPEN AIR

The best places to dine and drink under the stars

Thai-made gifts Bangkok’s hipster heartland

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CONTENTS where

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l THAILAND l DECEMBER 2014

The Guide BANGKOK

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24 SHOPS+SERVICES The best of Bangkok's markets, one of the world's largest bazaars and a treasure trove of vintage finds.

26 ARTS+ATTRACTIONS

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

Our favorite exhibitions taking place across the city.

28 DINING

Our favorite rooftop bars, classic Thai salas and riverside retreats to eat and drink outdoors.

The city's top spots for molecular and modern gastronomy, including some of Asia's very best restaurants.

30 NIGHTLIFE

SHOPPING

Our favorite nightclubs, best spots to listen to live indie music, and where to find Bangkok's best cocktails.

10 THAI TOUCH Beautiful Thai-made gifts to take home, from naturally formulated cosmetics to silk accesories.

34 HEALTH+WELLNESS

AROUND THAILAND

Soothe away your troubles at these four Ayurvedic retreats, or go Thai at a stylish new spa.

12 NEWS

Northern Thailand's top winter events, a newly discovered waterfall and two elegant new beach resorts.

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35 PROPERTY The city's booming with luxury developments.

These are the best of the bunch.

14 THE PEARL OF THE ANDAMAN Where to eat, drink and visit in Phuket, the jewel of Thailand's West coast.

36 NAVIGATE Essential tips on getting around.

EXPLORING 18 SUKHUMVIT SOI 51 TO 65

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Stomping ground of Bangkok's coolest young things, and a paradise for Thai food from street eats to fine dining.

ALSO INSIDE

20 OLD TOWN

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Discover where Bangkok began, an area that's now home to lively bars, crumbling architecture and the city's most revered monuments.

38 21 THINGS WE LOVE

Managing Editor/Product Director Grégoire Glachant

Sales Manager Sherry Maturose Kato

Editor Wachiraporn Janrut

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

General Manager Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Senior Designer Panita Thiraphapon

Regional Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk Marketing Manager Thasanee Sethi Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant

HOT DATES

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.

Com

MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

On the Cover Gramercy Park

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

www.wherethailand.com

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

@where_thailand

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HOT DATES

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

DEC 19-21

WORLD OF WONDER

Around 1.5 hour’s drive from Bangkok, this is probably the most exciting music festival that’s ever happened in Thailand, whether for the music lineup—Little Dragon (Sweden), De La Soul (USA), Jose Gonzalez (Sweden)—or the long list of pop-up food events from some of the region’s best chefs and restaurants, including Burnt Ends (Singapore), Quince (Bangkok), Appia (Bangkok) and the Michelin-star-winning head chef from Nahm, David Thompson. Profits will also be invested into education and sustainable infrastructure development for Thailand. Tickets from B5,000, available at www.thaiticketmajor.com.

The Fields at Siam Country Club, Chonburi. www.wonderfruitfestival.com

DEC 9

DEC 12-14

DEC 6-18

DEC 31

ELECTRIC BOOGIE

RETRO CHARM

GARDEN PARTY

NEW YEAR’S EVE

Organized by the Bangkok-based party organizer Retox Sessions, the electrodance music festival 808 Festival 2014 is held at the vast BITEC arena and brings out the likes of Dutch DJ Nicky Romero, who collaborated with Avicii on the UK#1 hit “I Could be the One,” Richie Hawtin aka Plastikman, progressive electro-house act Blasterjaxx and British DJ Daley Padley aka HOT Since 82. Tickets from B1,950, available at www.thaiticketmajor.com.

The Hua Hin Vintage Car Parade features a grand parade of more than 50 rare classic cars which make the yearly pilgrimage from Bangkok to Thailand’s royal coastal holiday town. Watch the cars as they travel through Hua Hin Town, passing by Ta Tako school and the King Rama IV statue in Khao Wang on Dec 12, and get up close to the precious metal as the vehicle’s park up at the Sheraton Hotel at 6pm on Dec 13.

For more information, contact the TAT on 032-513-885 or www.tourismthailand.com.

The charity foodie event Chim Bangkok Charity Week 214 brings together Michelin-starred chefs and local fine -dining masters, along with live music and wine. Experience some of the best Thai food in the world on Dec 6, when acclaimed chefs Nooror Somany Steppe from Blue Elephant, Ton Tassanakajohn from Le Du and David Thompson from Nahm cook up a feast named Chim in the Garden. Tickets from B2,500, available at www.chimbangkok.com.

The chic way to celebrate NYE is to book a dinner at a five-star riverside hotel (you’ll pay dearly for the privilege) or restaurant (see page 6)—the fireworks reflected in the water are stunning. For something a bit wilder, join the packed crowds in front of CentralWorld (BTS Chit Lom) for a midnight countdown and pop concerts.

Or visit wherethailand.com for more parties, as yet unannounced as we go to press.

BITEC, 88 Bangna-Trat Rd., 02-7493939. BTS Bangna

Groove, Rama 1 Rd., 02-264-5555. BTS Siam/Chit Lom

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ADVERTORIAL

RED SKY AT CENTARA GRAND

One of Bangkok’s rooftop dining institutions serves food to match the spectacular views.

There’s a whole lot to like about the signature rooftop venue at one of Bangkok’s most exclusive five-star hotels—excellent food made from premium ingredients, a buzzing atmosphere, perfectly made signature martinis—but perhaps best of all is that you dine within touching distance of an icon of Bangkok’s skyline: the vast steel lotus petals atop Centara Grand at CentralWorld that can be seen across the city.

Chef Hugo Coudurier’s menu sits just on the right side of contemporary, with inventive and seriously delicious starters as well as a satisfying list of grilled meat and seafood that includes some of the finest steaks in Bangkok. His Avocado & Smoked Salmon Gnoc-

chi is a real star. Premium smoked salmon and creamy avocado are matched perfectly with a piquant dill-and-lemon-butter sauce that provides just the right balance of sharpness for the light and fluffy, miniature gnocchi. It’s also a truly beautiful plate of food, put together with a deft touch of hand.

Mains are no less impressive, not least the Wagyu Beef Tenderloin “Rossini”. The tender, beautifully pink meat has an exterior rich with caramelized flavor from the grill, complemented by rustic field mushrooms poking out from beneath a creamy portion of potato in a rich, powerfully flavored Madeira sauce.

Topped with a generous portion of foie gras, this is seriously indulgent stuff.

Red Sky also goes big on desserts. In fact, the dessert menu is almost as long as the mains. We say, head straight for the Caramelized Apple Tart—a dish that’s served just as it should be: buttery puff pastry, quickly melting vanilla ice cream and a heady combination of caramelized apple and almonds.

Complementing Red Sky’s food is not just an excellent wine menu (the restaurant has one of the best cellars in Bangkok) and attention to the finer details (fresh parmesan and olive mini baguettes served with Beurre d’Isigny), but also a wonderful atmosphere.

Incredible sunset views mean people arrive early, and by 6:00pm you’ll already find a bar buzzing with well-dressed locals and visitors. It all makes for a friendly yet upscale environment in which to enjoy some of the city’s finest food.

55/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-6255. Open daily 6:00 – 11:30pm. BTS Siam/Chit Lom

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DINING

THE SPEAKEASY

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

Top spots in Bangkok to eat and drink under the stars.

ABOVE ELEVEN

RED SKY

RED SKY

ROOFTOP DRINKS OCTAVE

The 55th-floor view from Centara’s rooftop puts this bar in the same league as high flyers like Vertigo at the Banyan Tree. Al fresco dining and drinking takes place under a swooping, red-lit arch in an environment that is somewhat more relaxed than the adjoining Fifty Five restaurant. Chef Hugo Coudurier prepares a menu focused on high-quality steaks, best enjoyed with a drop from Centara Grand’s notably excellent wine cellar.

The bar’s trendy-but-mature vibe is accentuated by striking views from the top floor of the Marriott Sukhumvit hotel. The first level features a long balcony filled with sculpturelike sofas, above which are a couple of private rooms and a third tier with 360-degree views around a circular bar. DJs play not-too-loud funky house to a crowd of young executives and hotel guests drinking classic cocktails with slight twists. The food focuses on Asianthemed bar snacks.

45/F, Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Thong Lo

OCTAVE

THE SPEAKEASY

L’APPART

This rooftop cocktail lounge takes you back to the jazz age. The two-story space sports prohibition-era inspired décor, featuring lots of dark woods and Art Deco touches. A balcony on the 24th floor lets you take in 180-degree views of Bangkok’s business district, while an al fresco rooftop offers a more leisurely atmosphere. Try classic cocktails that really pack a punch, like the Sazerac 1838, which combines Jack Daniels, absinthe and bitters.

On the 32nd floor of Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, chef Jeremy Tourret serves modern French cuisine in a restaurant that feels like a classic Parisian apartment—parquet floor, velvet upholstery, wood paneling, even a La Cornue stove in the open kitchen.

The chef is passionate about Thai produce, so expect to find regional touches in the brief menu, broken down into the day’s market arrivals, signature dishes and tapas.

24-25/F, Hotel Muse Bangkok Langsuan, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd., 02-630-4000. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Chit Lom

32/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sois 13 and 15), 02-126-9999. Open daily 7pm-midnight. BTS Nana

55/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-6255. Open daily 5:30pm-1am. BTS Chit Lom

ABOVE ELEVEN This bar and restaurant doesn’t just have great views of the city going for it; there’s also an adventurous menu of Japanese-Peruvian fusion (aka Nikkei) cuisine like acebichado rolls (seabass, ika karage, avocado). If you’re sitting at the bar you’ll have your back to the skyline, so its worth booking a table in advance, or heading upstairs to the adjoning Gramercy Park, which specializes in raw food: ceviche, sashimi and sushi.

33/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111. Open daily 6pm-2am. BTS Nana

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OUTDOOR THAI DINING CHON

RUEN URAI

The luxurious Siam Hotel’s signature restaurant is no less beautiful than the rest of this sprawling, Art Deco-themed riverside mansion. The teak builiding was brought down river to Bangkok from Ayutthaya, Thailand’s ancient capital, and is filled with antique Buddhas and elegant pieces of furniture. The food is simple and authentic, with dishes that represent Thailand’s various culinary regions, from the curries of Chiang Mai to the papaya salads of Isaan.

This century-old teak house outfitted with beautiful antiques is just as stunning outside as inside. Paying homage to the original owner, who was a doctor, the menu incorporates medicinal herbs and spices such as green peppercorn, wild ginger, galangal and turmeric. Ingredients are of high quality and the curry pastes taste like they’re made from scratch. We recommend the grilled river prawns with spicy galangal dressing and wild boar sautéed with spicy curry.

The Siam, 3/2 Khao Rd., 02-206-6999. Open daily noon-11pm. Free shuttle boat from Taksin Pier

Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72.

Open daily noon-11pm. BTS Sala Daeng

CHON

SALA RIM NAAM The signature Thai restaurant of Bangkok’s most pedigreed hotel serves mild yet authentic flavors, with nods to Royal cuisine and an emphasis on quality ingredients. It’s set on the other side of the river from the main hotel, with a terrace that overlooks the water for al fresco dining. Recommended dishes include goong pad prik daeng (fried prawn with garlic and red chili sauce) and massaman nuea (Southern-style beef curry with sweet potato and onion).

SALA RIM NAAM

CONCIERGE CHOICES Five-star concierges from Bangkok’s best hotels tell us their favorite al fresco spots.

Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave., Charoenkrung Rd., 02-659-9000. Open daily noon-3pm, 5pm-midnight. BTS Saphan Taksin

THIPTARA Thiptara means water from the heavens in Thai, a fitting name for the open-air pavilions surrounded by gardens and furnished with antiques and traditional artworks. The kitchen serves up traditional dishes from Thailand’s different regions, such as gaeng phend ped yang (roasted duck in red curry) and pla hima sam rod (deep fried snow fish with spicy, sweet and sour sauce).

The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoen Nakorn, 02861-2888. Open daily 6-10:30pm. BTS Saphan Taksin

Kris Oonsombatt Concierge Team Leader, Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit We recommend our guests to dine at Bann Khanitha (31 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-2598530/1). As well as authentic Thai cuisine, there’s a lovely outdoor garden on the second floor called Moon Glass. It’s just a 10-minute walk from our hotel and open daily from 11ammidnight. My personal favorite outdoor dining choice is very simple: a place called 57 Seafood on Street (opposite Bangkok Marriott Hotel). The food is fresh and delicious, and quite popular among Japanese and Korean tourists.

Wirachai Chakumrod Chief Concierge, The Sukhothai Bangkok There are three places no tourist should miss. Sala Rattanakosin (39 Maharaj Rd., 02-622-1388) offers views of Wat Arun as well as life on the Chao Phraya River—good Thai food and great cocktails. If you’re after somewhere downtown with a New York kind of vibe, Above Eleven (33/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 083-542-1111) has great views of the city skyline, as well as good food and reasonable prices. For the young and trendy, Octave (See page 6) is a perfect venue thanks to a great DJ lineup, quality Thai bar snacks and classic cocktails.

Theerasak Kumwong Chief Concierge, Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok Personally, I like to start the evening with a beer at Cloud 47 (47/F United Center Building, 091-889-9600) before going out to party. It’s one of the few rooftop venues where you can enjoy live music and Thai dishes at fair prices. We also recommend our guests visit Sala Rattanakosin (See page 8) for the stunning views of Wat Arun.

Head to the rooftop bar for some great house-blended cocktails and to enjoy the breeze.

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DINING

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SALA RATTANAKOSIN This boutique hotel is a welcome addition to the Chao Phraya riverside and offers stunning views of Wat Arun. The renovated four-story shop-house boasts a small number of guestrooms but half of the building is dedicated to wining and dining, courtesy of chef Tony Wrigley, whose restaurant whips up some pretty impressive Thai food. For us, though, the highlight of Sala Rattanakosin is its rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping a great selection of cocktails.

Maharaj Rd., 02-622-1388. Open daily 7am-10pm.

SAMBAL

SALA RATTANAKOSIN

RIVERSIDE BARS BABBLE & RUM The main restaurant (ground floor) and bar (second floor) of this welcoming riverside hotel next to Phra Arthit Pier are decorated like a contemporary French cafe, finished in dark woods, mirrors and leather-clad couches. An outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area make it the perfect spot for a chilled night out. The menu features Thai and inter comfort food and plenty of cocktails. Try the Jelly Riva (vodka, melon syrup, lime juice on top of jelly).

1-2/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Athit Rd., 02-633-5000.

Open Mon-Tue 6:30-12:30am.

VIVA AVIV Located right by the Chao Phraya River, this venue has a pirate theme with a dash of industrial chic: the bar is made out of old wooden crates, with lobster traps accessorizing the walls and sailboat hardware hanging from the ceiling. Soak up the river view and enjoy bistro-style food and inventive, well-made cocktails like the Pina Colasi (Appleton Jamaican rum, fresh pineapple, orange and black pepper syrup, citrus and fresh young coconut foam).

The stylish riverside venue serves Southeast Asian cuisine with a contemporary touch. Opt to sit under the enormous banyan tree, close to the cabana-like bar and picturesque river scene. Apart from the five-star views, you can expect delightful dishes like the Bali bouillabaisse-rich in both texture and flavor. There is a good list of tropical-feeling signature cocktails, too, such as Mangkut Drowning: Barbados dark rum with mangosteen puree.

Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 2 Charoenkrung Soi 30, 02-266-9214. Open daily 6-10:30pm

B/F, River City Shopping Complex, 23 Yotha Rd., 02-639-6305. Open daily 11am-midnight

TRADER VIC’S Known for its strong cocktails and Pacific Rim cuisine, the Polynesian-inspired Trader Vic’s also has a good selection of grilled meats and fish, plus foie gras and French oysters. A stunning view of the river is a bonus, as is their solid choice of cold cuts, salmon and sushi. The Sunday brunch is a great way to feel on vacation without leaving Bangkok.

TRADER VIC’S

Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa, 257/1-3 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-476-0022. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am; Sun 11:30am-3pm

SAMBAL

BABBLE & RUM

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SHOPPING

THAI TOUCH

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Local gifts and pampering kits. By Wachiraporn Janrut

1 EASTERN TREAT BODY SERUM, ERB One of Erb’s best-selling products, made using natural ingredients like germinated rice, red rice, jasmine and mint to promote skin elasticity and boost collagen.

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Price: B1,490 Available at G/F, 4/F Siam Paragon; 5/F The Emporium; 5/F Central Chidlom; 4/F Central Bangna; 1/F Central Food Festival Phuket and Erb boutique, Thonglor Soi 12. www.erbthailand.com

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5 ROSE MOONLIGHT BODY ESSENTIALS SET, PANPURI

2 PINK GINGER ALE SOFTENING BODY POLISH, PRIMMALAI

De-stress with a body cleanser, body butter, hand and nail cream, and body oils made with geranium and Africa’s nutritious marula.

The beautifully fragrant, rejuvenating body polish is made from ginger, saffron, vetiver grass, pine bark extract and cork tree.

Price: B4,540

Price: B1,400

Available at Panpuri stores, including L/F, Gaysorn and M/F, Terminal 21. www.panpuri.com

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Available at 1/F, Gaysorn Plaza and the spa at the Intercontinental Hotel. www.primmalai.com

Pure essential oils with healing properties such as summer rose, jasmine blossom, lavender and rosemary.

3 HAPPINESS OF THE ORIENT IV, HARNN Hydrating shower gel, revitalizing lotion and herbs salt body polish presented in an elegant package.

Price: B2,330 through Jan 31 Available at 4/G, Siam Paragon; 4/F, The Emporium; 1&3/F, Central World and LG/F, Central Embassy. www.harnn.com

4 PERSIAN BLUE SCARF, DOI TUNG This viscose bamboo and cotton scarf is soft and comfortable.

Price: B1,290 Available at Doi Tung Lifestyle at 2/F, Siam Discovery Center. www.doitungorg

6 AROMATIC CHARM, THANN

Price: B890/1,150

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Available at Thann’s 12 branches, including 1&2/F, CentralWorld; 3/F, Gaysorn Plaza; 4/F, Siam Discovery; 6/F, The Emporium and 4/F, Siam Paragon. www. thann.info

7 BODY SOAP SET, THLOS Produced from virgin coconut oil, this set includes six fragrant soap bars presented in a stylish wooden box.

Price: B1,500 Available at Thlos Skin Care Shop, Sukhumvit Soi 66. www.thlos.com

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8 SCENTED CANDLES, JIM THOMPSON

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Three aromatic scented candles in exotic Eastern-style glass vessels presented in a Thai silk box.

Price: B3,500 Available at Jim Thompson’s main stores: Surawong Road, Siam Paragon, CentralWorld, The Emporium, Mandarin Oriental Hotel and Jim Thompson House and Museum. www.jimthompson.com

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!1 MIRROR CASE, JIM THOMPSON

9 BLACK SHAMPOO & WHITE CONDITIONER BOX SET, THLOS

This cute, 100-percent Thai silk cosmetic bag comes with the brand’s elephant print, an inside mirror and two compartments.

The sleek box set includes shampoo made from triphala, and coconut oil-based conditioner.

Price: B 1,100

Price: B1,250

Available at Jim Thompson’s main stores: Surawong Road, Siam Paragon, CentralWorld, The Emporium, Mandarin Oriental Hotel and Jim Thompson House and Museum. www.jimthompson.com

Available at Thlos Skin Care Shop, Sukhumvit Soi 66. www.thlos.com

!0 NATURAL GIFT SET, SOAP VILLA The gift set features natural soap bars made from aloe vera, clove, cucumber, ginger, honey, lemongrass, and more.

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!2 PRINTED SILK NECKTIE, JIM THOMPSON These smart blue neckties are made of 100-percent silk and feature the brand’s trademark elephant graphics.

Price: B485 Available at Room Concept Store at 4/F, Siam Discovery; The Shop@TCDC at 6/F, Emporium; Charms Village at 1/F, Silom Complex and Baimiang Shop at 1/F, Rain Hill Sukhumvit 47 www.soapvilla.com

Price: B 1,600 each Available at Jim Thompson’s main stores.

(See above)

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!3 IMMORTALITY DIFFUSER SET, VUUDH The stylish diffuser set includes a large diffuser, ivory wood and natural scented jasmine, lotus, fresh grass, mon rose, oolong tea and Himalayan magnolia.

Price: B2,508 through Jan 31 Available at 4/F, Central Embassy; 4/F, Siam Paragon and 4/F, The Emporium. www.vuudh.com

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AROUND THAILAND

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

THE LATEST OPENINGS AND HAPPENINGS AROUND THE KINGDOM

AWA RESORT

CHIANG MAI HOT DATES

Five Chiang Mai Events this December

THAILAND INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FESTIVAL

DEC 6-7 THAILAND INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FESTIVAL

X2 PHUKET OASIS VILLA

KOH CHANG

BEACHFRONT HOLIDAY AWA Resort (02-616-364/-6, www.awakohchang.com) recently opened on Koh Chang’s Kai Bae Beach, 700 meters from its sister resort, The Dewa. The beachfront retreat’s contemporary blue-and-white theme is given some warmth in the form of oriental art pieces on the walls and Chinese-style tea pots. There are five room types ranging from a 40-sq-meter superior hillside suite to a 108-sq-meter beachfront suite. Through Dec 23, rates are B33,360 per night for a superior room and B14,500 for a beachfront suite.

PHITSANULOK

GOLDEN DISCOVERY Thailand just got a new travel destination. In October, a nine-level waterfall was discovered amid the lush Benjapan forest in Phitsanulok’s Wangthong district. Phai Si Thong (golden bamboo) features a number of 15-meter cascades spread over a distance of

PHAI SI THONG

1.5km. Last week the province’s local tourism office officially opened the waterfall as a new travel destination, announcing plans to promote homestay services in the area, as well as agricultural tours. For more information, call TAT Phitsanulok on 055-252-742/3 or 055-231-063.

PHUKET

COLONIAL CHARM Inspired by Phuket’s Sino-Portuguese architecture, the stylish new X2 Phuket Oasis Villa (02-168-7533 ext. 305, tinyurl.com/ lyopzmb) consists of seven individual villas for up to 14 guests. Designed for groups of friends or families, the property is built around a central, resort-sized private swimming pool, day beds, a spacious lobby, kitchen with cook’s pantry and dining area with space for a maximum of 14 people. Through Apr 30, an opening rate of B48,000 per night includes use of the whole seven-bedroom villa. Located 10 minutes’ walk from Bangtao Beach.

Lifting off at sunrise on Dec 6 from Chiang Mai Gymkhana Golf, the festival includes kite flying, art workshops, a concert from local musicians, and a lucky draw. Food from local hotels as well as Chiang Mai vendors will also be available. Tickets are B300 for adults and B50 for children aged 7-12.

Free admission for children under seven. www. thailandballoonfestival.com

DEC 6-14 CHIANG MAI DESIGN WEEK 2014 Hosted by TCDC Chiang Mai, this year’s event comes under the theme “Born Creative” and includes exhibitions, workshops, forums, seminars, art markets and a talk by Kinfolk magazine editorin-chief Nathan Williams. 052-080-500. www. fb.com/TCDCChiangMai

DEC 5-10 NIMMAN ART & DESIGN PROMENADE (NAP) This popular annual event transforms Nimmanhaemin Soi 1 into a boutique flea market for six days. Expect all the hipster clutter from local boutiques and craftspeople, plus food and nightly music. www.fb.com/nimmansoi1

DEC 24-28 NANG KHANG WAT Temple fairs are always a laugh, and this one should be particularly entertaining. Ban Khang Wat is going to do a romantic open-air screening of movies set in Chiang Mai over five nights. www. fb.com/BannKangWat

DEC 5-10 ART SCENE MARKET Think Park hosts six days of local designer shops, food and drinks along with live music and screenings of indie short films. www.fb.com/thinkparkchiangmai

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AROUND THAILAND : PHUKET

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

BLUE ELEPHANT

THE PEARL OF ANDAMAN

Phuket’s hot spots for dining, drinking and chilling out.

PROMTHEP CAPE

BABA NEST

EAT

DO

PLAY

BLUE ELEPHANT

OLD TOWN WALK

BABA NEST

The world-famous Thai restaurant group has renovated the century-old Prapitak Chinpracha Sino-Portuguese mansion.

What was once an affluent family residence is now a luxurious dining space and cooking school serving some of the best Royal Thai cuisine on the island.

In the heart of the bustling and picturesque center of town, the Baba Nonya community combines Chinese heritage, colonial influences and indigenous traditions. Be prepared to try fiery Southern Thai cuisine and Hokkien delicacies, before taking a tour of Sino-Portuguese architecture and stimulating art galleries.

The club at Sri Panwa resort is perhaps the chicest nightlife spot in Phuket. A 4,000-sq-meter deck sits on top of the entire resort, hugged by a 360-degree infinity pool so that nothing blocks the panoramic view of Phang Nga Bay. As such, it’s one of the preferred spots to enjoy a picturesque sunset scene while lounging in a bean bag. The al fresco toilet is pretty cool, too.

96 Krabi Rd., Phuket Town, 02-7635-4355. Open daily 9am-midnight. www.blueelephant.com

TRISARA SEAFOOD The restaurant is set in a high-end resort on the quiet side of Nai Thon Beach. The décor of bleached wood and cool colors is inspired by Mediterranean beachside restaurants, while the kitchen offers a wide range of gourmet seafood dishes like grilled tiger prawns with Himalayan salt.

60/1 Moo 6, Srisoonthorn Rd., 02-7631-0100.

Open Mon-Sat 7-11pm. www.trisara.com

Visit Tourism Authority of Thailand, 191 Thalang Rd. (07-621-2213).

PROMTHEP CAPE Incredibly popular with sunset-viewing tourists, the cape sits on the southern tip of the island looking out over the Andaman Sea. Get to the viewpoint just before 6pm to join the crowds watching the sun drop below the waves. The view is particularly special between Dec-Mar when the grass on the cape turns yellow and brown, giving the area a golden glow.

88 Sakdidej Rd., 02-7637-1000. Open daily from 5pm-late (reservation highly recommended). www.sripanwa.com

WONDERLAND Set in a 100-year-old shop-house in the old quarter of Phuket Town, this cocktail lounge lives up to its name by wowing visitors with décor that includes unique artwork and vivid red walls. It’s a popular hangout with locals and offers a good selection of cocktails and sushi.

104 Yaowaraj Rd., Ban Talat Yai, 08-6024-1907.

Open daily 6pm-midnight. www.wonderlandphuket.com

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whereExploring DECEMBER 2014 | BANGKOK

SUKHUMVIT SOI 51 TO 65 Nearly all the streets—or “soi” in Thai—along Sukhumvit Road are known by their number. But Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) and Ekkamai (Sukhumvit Soi 63) are way too cool for that. These two parallel streets are quite simply the most buzzing in Bangkok, home to the best bars, clubs and restaurants. Here is our pick of the bunch.

A.R. SUTTON ENGINEERS SIAM

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 18 SUKHUMVIT SOI 51 TO 65

20 OLD TOWN

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EXPLORING

SUKHUMVIT SOI 51 TO 65 Y HOT SPOTS

Big in Japan

A sizable Japanese community make this one of Bangkok’s best locations for ramen, sushi and sake.

@0 Honmono Sushi The excellent sushi here is worth the high prices, plus the restaurant isn’t a bewildering experience for neophytes. Years after opening, it still packs in affluent Thais every night (reservations are a must) with its fresh fish from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo.

19 Thonglor Soi 23, 02-185-1447.

Open Mon-Fri 5pm-midnight; SatSun 11:30am-2pm

NEW

1 HOT ROD

From the same designer as the Dickensian-themed Iron Fairies (nearby, on Soi Thonglor) and the 1930s Shanghai-inspired Maggie Choo’s (on Silom Road), this small bar and restaurant dishes out a sophisticated menu of creative or rare Thai dishes and elaborate cocktails. Join the dozen happy few who can fit at its circular bar and nibble on Northern-style terrine while sipping on a mix of rum and jackfruit.

Room A103, G/F, Park Lane, Sukhumvit Soi 63, 02-714-2575. Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Ekkamai.

ART & ATTRACTIONS

SHOPPING

There are only a few art spaces in this neighborhood, but they are among the more interesting in town. 2 Pridi Banomyong Institute (65/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-3813860-1), for example, is the theater of choice for some of Thailand’s youngest and most experimental dancers and actors. Check the B-Floor Theater Group’s Facebook page (www. fb.com/Bfloor.theatre.group) prior to visiting for up-to-date information on shows. Further down the same street, 3Ardel’s Third Place Gallery (137137/1 Thonglor Soi 10, 02 714 7929) showcases work from both established and emerging local artists in a striking space—sleek, concrete floor, vast windows, whitewashed walls and exposed supporting steels. After browsing the gallery, head to the next street over to visit 4 Health Land (96/1 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-392-2233), where you’ll get one of the best-priced massages in Bangkok.

Clean, private treatment rooms and efficient staff account for its massive local popularity.

This is hipster central, and shopping around Ekkamai-Thonglor is all about vintage. 5 Machine Age Workshop (281/7 Ekkamai Soi 15, 02-381-8596) is an ambitious vintage fashion and furniture store set in a giant, open-plan warehouse. It specializes in repurposed odds and ends from America’s manufacturing age, from the late 1800s to mid-1900s: army drafting tables, wood radios and leather luggage. They also do a good beef brisket sandwich, if you’re feeling peckish. Be warned, some of the items are pretty expensive, although that doesn’t mean bargains can’t be found. For a more guaranteed

MACHINE AGE WORKSHOP

@1 Mugendai This resatuarant from a group of Japan-ophile friends focuses on premium ingredients. Recommendations include the Aburi Seven, a sushi set with Matsusaka beef, otoro (fatty tuna), as well as the unagi foie gras (grilled eel sushi stuffed with foie gras) and kinki shioyaki (grilled rockfish with salt).

7/F, Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, 02726-9222, 087-996-8888. Open daily 5:30pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm

AGAIN&AGAIN

wallet-friendly bet, head up the street to leather-specialist 6 Unfashion (Ekkamai Soi 10, 094-421-2411), where brogues, loafers, duck boots, belts and other accessories in varoius states of disrepair can be browsed while sipping a coffee from the adjoining cafe.

Visit 7 Again & Again (Market Place, Thonglor Soi 4, 089-486-5359) for something a little more feminine.

Unlike other ragged-looking vintage stores, this It-shop hooks its customers up with glittery dresses, shirts and a selection of high-quality skirts and pants. Crate-diggers should drop by 8 ZudrangmMa Records (7/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 088-891-1314), one of the best

@2 Teppen Tucked behind Major Sukhumvit cinema, this wooden-floored pub is a favorite among Japanese expats looking for a taste of home. The warm lighting and sincere staff create a friendly, authentic vibe.

14/2 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02-7141412. Open daily 6pm-midnight.

BTS Ekkamai.

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SUKHUMVIT SOI 51 TO 65

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Tucked inside a narrow lane, this cool, intimate shophouse bar is favored by Bangkok’s local and expat hipsters. The ground floor features a small corner bar with retro touches like old movie posters, vintage bench seating and flowery tiles. Head there early to ensure a table if you’re too self-conscious to stand around outside (where most of the crowd congregates) and be sure to check out the upstairs gallery.

7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. BTS Thong Lo. www.wtfbangkok.com

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seriously crowded almost every night of the week. Not all the area’s nightlife is geared at the party crowd. 1A.R Sutton Engineers Siam (G/F, Park Lane Ekkamai) might be tiny, but it’s one of the coolest cocktail lounges in town: a colonial-inspired bolthole that does a good job deceiving you into thinking it’s always been in its tucked away location, even if it is in a low-rise mall.

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presentation. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that regularly changes to reflect seasonal products that are bought fresh from the market daily. More laidback and with dishes closer to street food, !0 Soul Food Mahanakorn (56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 085-904-2691) serves a brief menu of perfectly executed Thai regional dishes. Don’t leave without trying their excellent, double-strength cocktails.

Regional Thai cuisine specialists include !1 Supanniga Eating Room (160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7508), where the mix of Eastern Seaboard and Isaan food makes for arguably the best Thai restaurant in Bangkok, and !2 Phuket Town (160/8 Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402), with its classic Southern dishes. For the best Thai dessert around, don’t miss the mango and sticky rice at !3 Maewaree (1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-392-4804)—ours and many others’ absolute favorite. The cosmopolitan area also has plenty of good Western food, whether it’s the down-to-earth sharing plates of !4 Opposite Mess

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BO.LAN

NIGHTLIFE Well-to-do Bangkok hipsters rub shoulders with expats at !7 Badmotel (between Thonglor Sois 15 and 17, 02-712-7288), a stylishly renovated three-story bar with regular DJs and a sizable outdoor garden. The craft-beer stronghold !8 Mikkeller (26 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-381-9891) attracts a similar but more laidback crowd, and is set in in a charming mid-century house. To party like the city’s young and wealthy, order a bottle of Johnnie Walker Black Label at !9 Muse (159/8 Thonglor Soi 10, 02-715-0998), a ThonglorEkkamai nightlife institution that gets

38 Sukhumvit

You are in Bangkokians’ food heartland, from street food to high-end Thai to quality fine dining. 9 Bo.lan (Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-2962) takes a traditional approach to Thai food with the occasional contemporary tweak in the

Sukhumvit 53

DINING

Hall (27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-6626330), which attracts a young, bohemian crowd, or the classic French fine dining fare of !5 4 Garcons (1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor Soi 13). Alternatively, ignore all the fancy bars and restaurants and head to !6Sabaijai Kebtawan (65 Sukhumvit Soi 63), where a feast of Thai seafood can quickly turn into a Leo beer-fueled karaoke session with friendly locals.

Sukhumvit 51

record stores in town, stocking a eclectic collection of vintage Thai funk and global sounds.

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OLD TOWN Y SPOTLIGHT

Krua Apsorn

SEVEN SPOONS This restaurant on the edge of Chinatown is immensely popular thanks to its commitment to local and organic ingredients. The welcoming dining room features a 1920s-30s feel alongside industrial touches like bare bricks and concrete. The menu focuses on Mediterranean cuisine and also includes wood-fired pizzas and brunch-style offerings for those who can make the Tue-Sat lunch service. Don’t leave before trying the fabulous cocktails, either.

22 Chakkrapatipong Rd., 02-629-9214. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am; Tue-Sat 11am-3pm. BTS Ratchathewi. sevenspoonsbkk.wordpress.com

T

he area considered Old Bangkok starts at Hua Lamphong train station and encomapsses some of the city’s most revered cultural landmarks.

But beyond the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, there’s also some excellent restaurants and beautiful riverside bars.

Start your walking tour from Prachan Pier (Tha Prachan in Thai) with a visit to 1 Tha Prachan and Amulet Market (open daily 7am-5pm), where ancient Buddha images, amulets and talismans are displayed along the footpath and in small lanes. Local advice is recommended if you plan on taking home any good-luck souvenirs. Nearby, you’ll find the gorgeous, if run-down,

2 National Museum (4 Na Phra Tha Rd., 02-224-1333), which houses some of the most impressive art and antiques in the country. In addition to historic pieces from the Dvaravati Srivijaya to Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods, the museum features regional art like Indian Gandhara, Chinese weapons, and ancient ceramics and musical instruments. At the other end of Sanam Luang is the most-visited landmark in Thailand, 3 Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo (open daily 8:30am-4:30pm. Entry B350). Construction on the royal residence of the first king of the current Chakri Dynasty began in 1762, and the complex is split into three zones: the Outer Court, where you’ll find Wat Phra Kaeo and the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred Bud-

THA PRACHAN AND AMULET MARKET

dha image; the Middle Court, which contains the Dusit Maha Prasat and Chakri Maha Prasat buildings; and

GRAND PALACE AND WAT PHRA KAEO

the Inner Court, former residence of the royal consorts. Be sure to get there early before the day is too hot.

Beware, touts will tell you the palace is closed for a national holiday. Ignore them! On the same grounds, you’ll also find the 4 Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles (Na Phra Lan Rd., Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, 02-2559430), which tells the story of how

Despite the slightly grubby ambience and the out-of-the-way location, the dishes here are special, in part because they’re made the “old-fashioned” way and have been fine-tuned over decades. The awesome mussels fried pad cha style, with basil, yellow chili, krachai (wild ginger) and green peppercorns are so plump and sweet that chefs from other restaurants have inquired about their source.

With food this good, it’s worth a journey from the city center.

503-505 Samsen Rd., 02-6688788. Open Mon-Sat 10:30am7:30am. www.kruaapsorn.com

HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand. Highlights include the queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading international designers. Behind the Grand Palace, on the bank of the Chao Phraya River, is the two-year-old 5 Nagaraphirom Park. What was once a row of shophouses and several other old buildings is now a breathable green space with views of the Grand Palace. Relax among trees and lotus ponds and enjoy a great view of the Temple of Dawn before you continue on your

QUEEN SIRIKIT MUSEUM OF TEXTILES

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EXPLORING

OLD TOWN walk. Next, pay your respects to the 43-meter-long reclining Buddha at 6 Wat Pho (open daily 8am-5pm), whose three-meter-tall feet are inlaid with mother of pearl displaying 108 Buddhist symbols. Wat Pho is also the birthplace of traditional Thai massage, and home to the country’s most famous massage school. In a beautiful colonial-style building nearby, 7 Museum Siam (4 Sanam Chai Rd., 02225-2777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm) is one of Bangkok’s best museums, portraying the history of Thailand through multimedia installations and interactive exhibitions. The venue also hosts an interesting lineup of rotating exhibitions, like the current Tha Tien (through Feb 1, 2015) which delves into the history of Thai headwear.

After exploring Thailand’s heritage, take a break at 8 Sala Rattanakosin (39 Soi Ta Tien, Maharat Rd., 02-622-

PHRA ATHIT HOTSPOTS Some of the Old Town’s best venues line this charming riverside road.

!1 Escapade The specialty here is Angus beef burgers that regularly rank among Bangkok’s best. Double your intake with a Quarter Cow (two beef patties, two slices of cheddar cheese with truffle sauce) and be sure to try the decadent smoothie cocktails.

SHEEPSHANK

112 Phra Athit Rd., 081-406-3773. Open Tue-Sun noon-midnight.

!2 Sheepshank This restaurant is designed to resemble a sophisticated boat house where you can sit back and enjoy views of the river and Rama VIII Bridge while eating Spanish dishes like seafood paella with saffron.

47 Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-5165. www.sheepshankpublichouse.com

!3 Pipit Banglamphu Thanks to the efforts of the Banglamphu community, plans to demolish Bangkok’s first printing school, which dates back to 1924, were derailed, and the building recently reopened as the Pipit Banglamphu Museum. Registered a place of national importance by the Fine Art Department of Thailand, the museum focuses on the culture of Bangkok’s Rattanakosin Island area, as well as the printing school’s history.

Next to Phra Sumen Fort, Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-1850. Entry B100. Closed Mondays. www.fb.com/pipitbanglamphu

ESCAPADE

SALA RATTANAKOSIN

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1388) and enjoy Thai food with great views of the Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun). This stylish riverside venue boasts a small number of guestrooms but half of the building is dedicated to wining and dining. There’s also a rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping cocktails. If you’re in the mood for more drinks, head to 9 The Deck (Arun Residence, 36-38 Maharaj Rd.), a charming outdoor venue just a short walk from Sala Rattanakosin.

Set in a five-room boutique hotel, the Deck offers a delightful atmosphere in which to enjoy another drink or two, and also has a sophisticated Thai food menu. Finish your Old Town tour with a night visit to !0 Pak Klong Talad (open 24 hours), Bangkok’s largest flower market. Flowers from not only Thailand but around the world arrive here each day to be distributed to hotels, restaurants and small retailers. You’ll find everything from local jasmine to imported red roses. Fresh batches arrive after midnight, which is when you’ll get to experience the busiest trading atmosphere.

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It’s not easy to get to the old town as there is no the sky train or MRT coverage, and a car journey can take up to an hour due to heavy traffic.

The most convenient route is perhaps to take the sky train to BTS Saphan Taksin and catch a boat from Sathorn Pier to Pra Athit Pier.

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ThewhereGuide DECEMBER 2014 | BANGKOK

PASTE Chefs Jason Bailey and Bongkoch Satongun take inspiration from traditional Thai cuisine, but also make the most of modern techniques, artful presentation and some personal twists. And what produce!

Every mint leaf, every pickled chili is bursting with flavor. You can tell everything is homemade and, where possible, from locallysourced ingredients. The atmosphere is intimate and suitably plush, the renovated shophouse dominated by a deep red sofa that runs along one side.

120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49 (opposite Samitivej Hospital), 02-392-4313. Open Wed-Sun noon-2:30pm; Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. BTS Phrom Phong. www.pastebangkok.com

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 24 SHOPS + SERVICES 26 ART + ATTRACTIONS

28 DINING 30 NIGHTLIFE

34 HEALTH + WELLNESS 35 PROPERTY

36 NAVIGATE

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SHOPS+SERVICES CENTRAL EMBASSY NEW

Bangkok’s newest luxury mall dedicates eight floors to retail shops from some of the world’s most exciting fashion brands, including Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin and Jil Sander. Food-wise there are a host of high-end local restaurants like Rocket Cofeebar, Eathai and Minibar Cafe alongside popular eateries from around the world, such as dessert bar Chikalicious from New York and French patisserie Paul. There’s also a deluxe cinema on the sixth floor, where you can lie down under a duvet and enjoy a glass of wine.

1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-119-7777. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit.

Hot Spots MARKETS

1

CHATUCHAK MARKET

Chatuchak weekend market can be a daunting shopping experience. Spread over a 70-rai plot of land, the sprawling web of 15,000 stalls is one of the world’s largest markets.

You’ll find everything from food, furniture, books, plants, clothes, and antiques to puppies and exotic pets. Section 3, just outside the Kamphaeng Phet MRT station, is the most design-forward part of the market, home to both established and up-andcoming Thai artists.

Next to Chatuchak Park, Kamphaeng Phet Rd. Open Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. BTS Mo Chit.

3

PAK KLONG TALAD

At Bangkok’s largest flower market, flowers from around Thailand (and the world) arrive before being distributed to hotels, restaurants and small retailers. you’ll find everything from local jasmine to imported red roses.

The market is open 24 hours with different atmospheres during day and night. The liveliest period is perhaps from midnight-4am, when the day’s batch of fresh flowers start to arrive, and the authentic trading action is in place.

From Memorial Bridge to Khlong Lord, Chak Phet Rd. Open 24 hours

4

ASIATIQUE

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Y SPOTLIGHT

TALAD ROD FAI

This vintage market reopened at the end of last year after being relocated from its old spot beside Chatuchak Market. The new location behind Seacon Square is home to small stalls selling all sorts of retro bric-a-brac, from antique toys and vinyl to secondhand clothes and cameras.

There are also plenty of vintage-inspired bars and cafes. To reach it, get the BTS to Udomsuk and then take a taxi. Don’t be put off if all you see on arrival is plastic junk—the best finds are at the back of the market.

Sri Nakarin Soi 51, 081-1827-5885. Open Thu-Sun 5pmmidnight

ASIATIQUE

The first shopping center to sit on the riverbank is themed according to the city’s architecture of old. It includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashion and intriguing souvenirs, as well as a variety of eateries, beer gardens and wine bars. The gigantic venue is also home to a ferris wheel and stage shows. We like the seafood at Baan Khanitha. Free ferry from Sathorn Pier. 2194 Charoen Krung Rd., 02-108-4488. Open daily 5pm-midnight

5

WANG LANG MARKET

This daily market runs along the river on the lesser visited Thonburi side, next to Siriraj Hospital, and is filled with locals of all ages every day. Stalls sell everything from food to toys, but the majority of the buzz centers on secondhand clothes for men and women—all at incredibly low prices. Most visitors reach the market by boat from Sathron Pier or Prachan Pier.

Siriraj Pier, Wang Lang Rd. Open daily 10am-6pm

SIAM CENTER The four-story mall right by the BTS is home to some of the very best Thai fashion brands.

Most of them are concentrated on the third floor. Greyhound offers contemporary clothing with a focus on menswear, while Senada features classically feminine pieces. Other brands worth checking out include Milin (youthful yet sexy), Fly Now (sophisticated, tailored) and Disaya (playful and edgy). Be sure to also drop

by The Selected multi-label store.

Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000 ext 500. Open daily 10am9pm. BTS Siam

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ART+ ATTRACTIONS HOF ART SPACE AT W DISTRICT NEW

The ambitious art space has taken over the entire W District community mall, with an art festival modeled on the Rio Carnival (through Jan 18, 2015). It will feature a celebrity auction for children’s charities, body painting, video art and workshops, as well as live Brazilian music and martial arts/dance performances, all a few minutes’ walk from BTS Phra Khanong. There are also 400 pieces of affordable art on display and special live art performances every weekend. Check out the full list of activities at ow.ly/EnsLH W District, Sukhumvit Soi 69-71, 02-178-0095.

BTS Phra Khanong.

Hot Spots EXHIBITIONS

4

Y SPOTLIGHT

MYTHICAL REALITY

Thai artist Wittawat Tongkeaw rearranges everyday objects to create 13 pieces intended to question reality.

Through Jan 18. Subhashok the Art Centre (S.A.C.), 160 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-0299. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm.

KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY

1

BANGKOK IN TECHNICOLOR

Manit Sriwanichpoom, the leading figure in Thailand’s fine art photography scene, presents an exhibition of vibrant city images taken from his new book. Held at his Silom shop-house gallery, it serves as a follow-up to his previous, romantic Bangkok in Black & White series.

5

TAMCOIS

Thaweesak Sritongdee’s solo painting exhibition at one of Bangkok’s most impressive new galleries illustrates love, sexual desires, death and the complexities of human life. Be sure to also visit the restaurant next door, The Never Ending Summer.

Through Dec 13. The Jam Factory, 41/1-41-2 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-861-0950. Open daily 11am-8pm.

Through Dec 27. Kathmandu Photo Gallery. 87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700. Open Tue-Sun 11am-7pm.

2

With this multi-artist exhibition, the gallery within the grounds of this antique Thai residence explores Northeastern Thailand’s traditional folk music, culture and heritage. Expect a variety of musical and narrative performances.

Through Mar 31. Jim Thompson Art Center, Jim Thompson House, Soi Kasem San 2, Rama 1 Rd. BTS National Stadium

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Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

JOYFUL KHAEN, JOYFUL DANCE

TRANCE EXHIBITION

Curator Lyla Phimanrat presents this sound and video installation by two local artists, Arnont Nongyao and Piyarat Piyapongwiwat.

Through Dec 26. Yet-Space, 117 Charan Sanit Wong Soi 11, 082-056-5367. Open Tue-Sat 11am-6:30pm

THE JAM FACTORY

6

DAYS OF ENDLESS MEANINGLESSNESS

Sydney-based Thai mural painter Phaptawan Suwankudt presents five sets of acrylic on canvas inspired by selected photographs of Bangkok during the political turmoil of 2013-2014.

Through Jan 4. 100 Tonson Gallery, 100 Soi Tonson, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-684-1527. Open Thu-Sun 11am7pm. BTS Phloen Chit

Set in the bustling Pratumwan area just across the road from Siam Square and MBK, the Bangkok Arts and Culture Centre (BACC) has become a popular hot-spot for the people of Bangkok. Aside from the contemporary art exhibitions, BACC also contains small, designcentric stores, ranging from cafes and restaurants to book shops. The top floor also boasts a movie theater, complete with a decent-sized stage for live performances. From Dec 13 to Feb 1, it will feature an exhibition titled “The great artist of tomorrow will go underground” at the main hall (7/F).

939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630-8. Open Tue-Sun 10am9pm. BTS National Stadium. www.bacc.or.th

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GUIDE

DINING J’AIME BY JEANMICHEL LORAIN NEW

This recent arrival from Jean-Michel Lorain of the acclaimed three-Michelin-starred Côte Saint Jacques in Burgundy is helmed by Lorain’s protégé, Amerigo Sesti. The food is contemporary in presentation but sticks to quite classical French flavors. Expect dishes like Bourguignon beef cheeks, oyster terrine and veal shank confit, served with Michelin-star levels of perfection in a plush dining room U Sathorn Bangkok, 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli, Sathorn Rd., 02-119-4888. Open daily 11:30am3pm, 6-11pm.

Hot Spots MOLECULAR & MODERN CUISINE

1

LE DU

Two young Thai chefs with degrees from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) power this inventive Asian restuarant. Their dishes focus heavily on local and seasonal produce, which are prepared using modern cooking techniques to produce original and delicious food. The wine list is equally exciting, with bottles sourced only from organic producers or boutique importers. In our view, Le Du is currently one of the best kitchens in town.

399/3 Silom Soi 7, 092-919-9969. Open Mon-Sat 6-11pm. BTS Chong Nonsi.

Y SPOTLIGHT

2

GAGGAN

GAGGAN

After building a solid foundation in Indian and Italian cooking at hotel restaurants, Gaggan Anand did a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, the former modern-gastro leader of the world. His eponymous restaurant serving molecular Indian cooking now regularly ranks as one of the best in Asia. Expect foams, spherification, dehydration and more alongside traditional curries.

LE DU

68/1 Soi Lang Suan, 02-652-1700. Open daily 6-11pm. BTS Chit Lom.

Blue Elephant

The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonialstyle mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts. Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authentic flavors. While more modern Thai restaurants have lately grabbed the column inches, Blue Elephant is still worth a visit for both its atmosphere and food.

233 Sathorn Tai Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Surasak.

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GUIDE

DINING

3

SRA BUA BY KIIN KIIN

Sra Bua is the Bangkokian sister of Copenhagen’s Kiin Kiin, which, after David Thompson’s London branch of Nahm, became only the second restaurant in the world to receive a Michelin star for cooking Thai food. But this is modern gastronomy, making it very different from traditional Thai cooking (and Nahm’s). A curry might come with the texture and temperature of ice cream, and bites of lobster can be locked into gelatinous pearls that melt in your mouth with a sip of tom yam broth.

1/F, Siam Kempinski, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-1629000. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10:30pm. BTS Siam.

SRA BUA

4

ASTON

The three-story building’s facade is a tangle of concrete beams, steel cables and ferns, achieving an effect that manages to be both beautiful and slightly post-apocalyptic. The large open kitchen at the center of the dining room uses only the best produce: its beef hails from Australia, the quail from France, while the vegetables and suckling pigs are locally sourced. The chef’s table menu (five courses) changes regularly, or stick to the bar downstairs for some light tapas.

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OUR FAVORITE SPOTS FOR PIZZA

Pala Pizza Romana

Peppina

Sfizio

The result of Pala’s 72-hourcured dough is a thick, bread-like crust bursting with flavor. Pala also does a a mean selection of pastas and specials that seem to never repeat themselves, serving up rare ingredients for the Bolognese-weary, such as gnocchi with pumpkin or blue cheese and walnut sauce. As a place to simply grab a slice to go, it remains one of our top picks in town­—just don’t expect a fine-dining ambiance. Room #1, MRT Sukhumvit Station, Asoke, 02-259-1228-9.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun 11am-midnight. BTS Asoke/ MRT Sukhumvit.

Wanting to make the most authentic Neapolitan pizza in Bangkok, chef Paolo Vitaletti (of the highly esteemed Appia, which is just around the corner) ordered his massive pizza oven directly from Italy, along with a Neapolitan baker with five years’ experience just to make the dough.

The result is simply some of the best Italian pizza in town. But Peppina also serves a variety of fresh salads, specialty cold cuts, and hearty grilled meats. 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-119-7677.

Open Tue-Sun 6:30-11pm.

Like its neighbor, fellow RomanItalian restaurant Pala Romana, Sfizio claims to mature its pizza dough the traditional way for 72 hours. As well as pizza, the menu focuses on other comforting Italian classics, from homemade gnocchi in cheese and black truffle sauce to Roman-style carbonara.

The name comes from a colloquial Italian term meaning “whim” or instinctive, feel-good choice.

The dining room is small and casual, and they also offer takeaway (pick-up only). 44/4 Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asoke), 02-262-0405.

MRT Sukhumvit. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-4pm; Mon-Sat 6-11pm.

BTS Asoke/MRT Sukhumvit.

68 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-102-2323. Open MonSat 6pm-1am

OSHA

5

OSHA

Set in a solemn-looking stone pavilion by the US Embassy, this restaurant by a Thai celebrity chef features fancified versions of Thai classics like papaya salad, as well as more inventive creations that incorporate modern cooking techniques. Its main claim to fame is a B1,500 version of krapow-nua, a Bangkok street food staple of stir-fried beef with holy basil. Be sure to try the cocktails, like Osha-Sha—their take on Brazil’s classic Caipirinha.

99 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., 02-256-6555. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 6pm-midnight.

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NIGHTLIFE NEW

SMALLS

This laidback, late-night cocktail lounge is set in a corner-shop-house and split over three levels including a roof terrace with excellent views of this lively street. The eclectic crowd ranges from older guests who come to nurse a drink while listening to live jazz, to young groups of friends always keen to check out the most buzzed about places in town. The bar specializes in absinthe, but there are some great cocktails, too.

186/3 Suan Phlu Soi 1, 081-819-6808. Open WedMon 8:30pm-2am

Hot Spots NIGHTCLUBS

MAGGIE CHOO’S

1

MAGGIE CHOO’S

3

DO NOT DISTURB

Located behind the long-standing Nunglen Bar, this club specializes in EDM from local DJs as well as live bands. The motelthemed decor begins with ten fake hotel doors to keep visitors guessing as to the real entrance, leading to an interior divided into four different subsections. The bar looks pricey at first but bottles do come with free-flow mixers. Upstairs is a yakiniku bar named Kukuuk (Open 6pm-1am) and an outdoor balcony.

INDIE BARS

The best spots for live indie music

Behind Nunglen and Escobar, Ekkamai Soi 7. Open Tue-Sun 8pm-2am BRICK BAR

This elegant bar evokes colonial outposts, the Pax Britannica of Queen Victoria, the decadence of opium or gambling dens, steamy exoticism (and steaming noodles on your way in), James Bond movies and gentlemen’s clubs. You can usually expect some kind of entertainment: a band, a DJ accompanied by a percussionist and beautiful ladies in cheongsam dresses lazing about. The cocktail menu is sweet, fruity and aromatic.

Underground/F, Hotel Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 02-635-6055. BTS Surasak

2

BADMOTEL

This inventive creation is housed in a run-down three-story building in the middle of one of Bangkok’s top nightlife streets. The once-abandoned interior has been left with plenty of imperfections, in stark contrast to its sleek white paint job with neon accents. Regular music events take place on the second floor, while the sizable downstairs garden is great for the cooler months.

Both the cocktails and food come with signature Thai touches.

Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), between Soi 15 and 17, 02-712-7288. Open daily 5pm-1am

MOOSE

DO NOT DISTURB

4

GREASE

Occupying a four-story shophouse, the swanky all-in-one nightspot houses a bar, club, lounge and restaurant, aiming to cater to all sorts of late-night pursuits. Decked out in a different theme on each floor, it plays everything from electro to drum n’ bass to Thai pop with regular guest DJs from abroad. There’s also a great outdoor roof terrace, Top-Loader, for those looking for a more relaxed evening.

46/12-13 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-6120/1. Open Mon-Sat 10pm-2am

MOOSE 24 Ekkamai Soi 21, 02-1089550. Open daily 5pm-1am. BTS Thong Lo BRICK BAR 1/F, Buddy Lounge Bldg, 265 Khao San Rd., 02-629-4556. Open daily 7pm-1am BANGKOK BAR 8/F, Opus Building, 02-713-8581. Open daily 5pm-2am

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE

5

KU DE TA

The Bangkok venue of this high-end Asian nightlife brand consists of several restaurants, bars and clubs tied together by a slick, exclusive feel. The main restaurant, Signature, offers contemporary Asian—particularly Japanese— cuisine as well as excellent desserts, while Ku Bar provides a sultry spot for nursing a cocktail. Later in the evening, head to the Club Lounge for DJ sets or Soundgarden for live music.

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BANGKOK’S BEST COCKTAILS UNDER B250 Our favorite bars and restaurants for a cheap and cheerful drink.

39 & 40/F, Sathorn Square Complex, 98 North Sathorn Rd., 02-108-2000. BTS Chong Nonsi

6

DESI BEATS

Located in one of Bangkok’s nightlife hot spots, next door to Bangkok Bar Infinity, this indoor-and-outdoor Moroccan-themed drinking spot puts the focus on shisha. The tables are specifically designed for smoking, but they serve Western-fusion and Indian food, too—all to a soundtrack of Bollywood and international dance tunes. Get there early to grab some of the outdoor seats on the building’s rooftop.

8/F, Opus Building, 139 Thonglor Soi 10, 081-6838889. Open daily 6pm-2am

SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN

WANDERLUST

WALDEN

BANGKOK BASTARD (B200) SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN

OCEAN 10 (B199) WANDERLUST

GLENDFIDDICH (B200) HIGHBALL AT WALDEN

Bourbon with gin, lime, kaffir lime leaves and bitters, topped with gingerale.

56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo

A Long Island Iced Tea with gin, rum, tequila, vodka, triple sec and blue Curacao.

5/F, Nakiya Japanese Restaurant Building, Thonglor Soi 13.

086-655-5328

Glenfiddich 12 Y.O. with green apple and soda served in a long glass with ice cubes.

7/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31.

02-662-8087

YELLOW SUBMARINE (B220) MOOSE Aromatic gin-based daiquiri with a blend of fresh mango and honey.

24 Ekkamai Soi 21.

02-108-9550

BOURBON PINEAPPLE SOUR (B210) OPPOSITE MESS HALL

TOO PLA (B200) ES-CA-PE Vodka, red syrup and lime topped with mint leaves—be warned, just one can get you tipsy.

15 Ekkamai Soi 12, 081-913-3126

7-year-old bourbon, clove, pineapple shrub and lime juice.

27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51.

02-662-6330. BTS Thong Lo

Y SPOTLIGHT

Levels Club & Lounge

Decked out with a huge LED chandelier above a circular bar and a bunch of monochrome sofas surrounding a sizeable dance floor, Levels provides a swanky, audio-visual-rich clubbing experience with international DJs regularly dropping by. The drinks list is also slightly cheaper than what’s offered by its Soi 11 competitors. There’s also a garden-like terrace bar offering a more relaxed way to spend your night. Headlining this month is guest DJ Paris Blohm from Los Angeles, who’ll rock the dance floor on Dec 11. The club’s lineup also includes guest DJ Borgeous from the US on Jan 15. The club’s NYE’s party features top 40, hip-hop, house and mashups performed by big-name DJs, live countdown and complimentary Champagne toast.

Levels, 6/F, Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246. BTS Nana. Open daily 9pm3am. www.levelsclub.com

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GUIDE TO

SUKHUMVIT 11 NIGHTCLUB A

CLUB C THE VAULT SPEAKEASY CLUB 082-308-3246 www.vault-bangkok.com www.facebook.com/vaultspeakeasyclub

The new, elegantly designed nightclub and lounge is inspired by speakeasies, or illegal drinking spots, and the glamorous art deco architecture of 1920s banks. With its retro-modern interior and opulent leather sofas, The Vault’s custom crafted bar serves up sophisticatedly refined cocktails. Music ranges from live jazz to upfront house, deep sexy tech house and nu-disco, delivered by resident DJ Fred Jungo. Open daily from 9pm-2am.

LEVELS CLUB & LOUNGE

HIP HOP & LIVE MUSIC B

SUGAR CLUB

Asoke Rd.

Petchaburi Soi 19 V CLUB 082 308 3246 www.facebook.com/VClubBangkok

Soi 15

Probably the most cutting edge dance music venue on Soi 11, The newly reopened V Club is located inside Levels Club & Lounge. The venue has been totally revamped with all new décor, a state of the art “Pyramid” DJ booth and a brand new sound & lighting system that will keep party goers on their feet all night long. It features world-class local and international DJs spinning the freshest house sounds from Ibiza to Miami. V Club, has hosted some of the hottest names in the business such as D. Ramirez, M.A.N.D.Y., James Zabiela, Technasia, Richard Durand, Leeroy Thornhill (The Prodigy), Ramon Tapia and Riva Starr. This month’s lineup includes renowned guest DJs My Digital Enemy on Dec 18 and Jason Chance on Dec 25.

Experience the all new V Club Wednesday thru Saturday from 10pm till late.

Klong Saen Saep

The popular nightlife venue located in the heart of Bangkok’s party scene, Levels Club & Lounge, promises an unforgettable partying experience. It offers a world-class audiovisual environment, a sizeable dance floor and features Bangkok’s hottest DJs. There are special weekly promotions like the Thursday’s TOO SEXY Ladies Night, where girls gets three free drinks before midnight. Open daily 9pm till late. On Dec 11, the club features guest DJ Paris Blohm from Los Angeles who will rock the floor with his upbeat tunes. B400/ ticket including one drink. Next month will see guest DJ Borgeous on Jan 15. Check their website for a full lineup and promotions.

NIGHTCLUB A

Petchaburi Rd.

08 2308 3246 www.levelsclub.com www.facebook.com/levelsclub

Soi 13 C

Soi 11

A

D

B

Soi 9

H

Soi 7/1

08 2308 3246 www.facebook.com/SugarClubBangkok

The brand new nightlife venue has been shaking up Soi 11 since its grand opening on Oct 1. Specializing in live bands and hip-hop, Sugar features outstanding local bands and DJs spinning the hottest hiphop every night of the week. Sugar features a one of kind stage with the drummer floating overhead and a five-meter catwalk that puts the party crowd right in the middle of the action. All this plus a team of sexy Sugar dancers makes this venue the place to be on Sukhumvit Soi 11. It’s open to a large segment of party people that enjoy high quality entertainment but at great value, with B100 drinks, an open bar for only B500 and B999 bottles before midnight.

E

G

Soi 7 PUB F

Soi 5 THE KIWI 02 653 3144 thekiwibangkok.com/en www.facebook.com/TheKIWIBangkok

The Kiwi on Soi 8 is a long-time favorite with expats and visitors thanks to its welcoming pub atmosphere, and outdoor terrace - the perfect place to watch live sports.

It also has a good reputation for delicious hearty meals from a pub breakfast to classic fish and chips. They also do a “Free BBQ” every Tuesday and a great roast dinner from noon every Sunday. Watch Live sports: NRL, AFL, EPL, F1 and many more.

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GUIDE TO

SUKHUMVIT 11 OUTDOOR TERRACE D

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OUTDOOR LOUNGE C KAZBAR 02 651 3313 www.facebook.com/Kazbarbangkok

New to Soi 11, The Kazbar is an al fresco street-side Shisha lounge located at the entrance to the Prime 11 building. This “Oasis of 11” boasts a lounge vibe, an intriguing tapas menu, chilled tunes and reasonably priced ice cold beers and specialty cocktails. Open from 6pm till late every day.

BAR & GRILL G

Sukhumvit Asok

Ratch

adap

hisek

Rd.

Soi 14

Soi 10 F

H

Nana

1

Soi 6

Soi 8

B

082 308 3246 www.qbarbangkok.com www.facebook.com/QBarBangkok

This well-known fixture on the nightlife scene has been running for over 14 years and was voted Best Bar in Bangkok by readers of leading city living publication BK Magazine.

The nightlife institution welcomes international DJs from all over the world as well as Bangkok’s cream of the crop. Fresh from a recent renovation, you can now take advantage of special promotions every night of the week including a promotion on Sunday to Thursday, where B500 gets you free entrance and a free bar on standard drinks from 9pm to midnight. Open daily from 9pm till late.

CoyoteMexicanBarGrillBangkok

The newly opened stylish margarita bar and Mexican restaurant on Sukhumvit Soi 11 makes one hot addition to Bangkok’s dining scene. It specializes in Southwestern grill and margaritas, offering unique items like imported smoked chipotle chilies, achiote paste with more than 50 hot sauces, and 75 different margaritas including the Black Forest Margarita (tequila, triple sec, blackberries, blueberries and cream) and the Mint Chocolate Margarita (tequila, triple sec, mint chocolate liqueur and lime juice in a chocolate coated glass). The authentic Southwestern dishes include mesquite grilled meats and all-time-favorites like Quesadillas, Coyote Nachos served with shredded grilled chicken and diced chorizo, and Cowboy skewers. Open daily from 11am-1am. Brunch is available on Sat-Sun.

Rama 4 Rd.

Sukhumvit Rd.

Soi 12

Queen Sirikit COYOTE MEXICAN BAR & GRILL National 02-651-3313 Convention www.coyotebangkok.com www.facebook.com/ Centre

Q BAR

PUB E THE AUSTRALIAN PUB & BBQ 02 651 0800 www.theaustralianbangkok.com www.facebook.com/TheAussiePub

Situated in the heart of Soi 11, “The Aussie,” as it’s known to locals, is a great spot for sports fans. In fact, they feature no less than 14 flat-screens and two projectors constantly showing live sports from around the world including the AFL and NRL. There’s also live music every day of the week, an impressive pub grub menu that includes specialties like Crocodile Kebabs and a chance to watch the world go by on the street-side terrace.

COCKTAIL & TAPAS BAR C

AZURA LOUNGE BAR 08 2308 3246 www.facebook.com/AzuraLoungebarBkk

Sukhumvit Soi 11’s newest lounge bar Azura, which was inspired by the laid back style and ‘Azure’ blue seas of the Mediterranean, serves a wide selection of delicious Greek and Spanish tapas in a cool, relaxed outdoor setting. At the bar you’ll find unique and refreshing cocktails designed by expert mixologists, while world-class DJs spin the perfect pre-club soundtrack. Get down there for the Sundowner Cocktail Buffet from 7-9pm.

Scan the barcode and get discounts or free drinks in these outlets.

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HEALTH + WELLNESS NEW

MYTH

The massage at this new spa is heavily influenced by the Wat Pho school— credited as the birthplace of Thai massage—and is performed using their own blend of essential oils. The modern-rustic decor could come straight from a five-star hotel, but the prices are much more down-to-earth, and the main treatment room is arranged in the traditional, communal format.

There’s also a delightful al fresco bar, a boutique selling Thai-made textiles, and a private fortune-telling service.

28/3 Soi Ruamrudee, Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., 02-651-5600-1. Open daily noon-midnight. BTS Phloen Chit.

Hot Spots AYURVEDIC MASSAGE

2

DEVARANA SPA

The spa’s heavenly, white-walled reception leads to 14 spacious rooms and suites, each hidden behind its own Thai-style door.

The Ayurvedic Head Massage (B2,354) uses pure sweet almond oil to nourish your hair and scalp during a 60-minute head, neck and shoulder treatment, also said to relieve stress and give you a restful night’s sleep.

Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-636-3596.

Open 9am-10pm. BTS Sala Daeng/MRT Silom. www.devaranaspa.com

4

DIVANA VIRTUE SPA

In a century-old house with its own private garden, this spa offers a wide range of international treatments. The Ayurvedic Rose Glamour package lasts for a whopping 270 minutes (B7,150) and encompasses the full scope of Ayurvedic remedies: an Ashiyou foot soak, Shirodara and rose quartz chakra therapy, head and scalp massage, body scrub, herbal steam, warm oil massage and milk bath.

10 Srivieng Silom, 02-230-6788-9. Open daily 11am-11pm. www.divanavirtuespa.com

OASIS SPA

1

Y SPOTLIGHT

OASIS SPA

This charming spa is set in an affluent residential neighborhood, and lives up to its name with a series of reflection ponds around which sit 15 private treatment rooms. Ayurvedic packages include the Abhyanga body massage (B2,300/60 mins), which uses a combination of kneading, stroking and rubbing to relieve tension, as well as Ayurvedic head massage (B1,200/45 mins), said to help problems with concentration and insomnia.

64 Soi Sawadee, Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-262-2122.

Open daily 10am-10pm. www.oasisspa.net

DEVARANA SPA

3

SPA AT FACE

Tucked in a beautiful compound of wooden Thai houses, this spa rolls out massages that utilize old-school principles. While the Wat Pho Healer package (B3,500/80 mins) takes its name from the famous Thai massage school, it can also be adapted to include Ayurvedic massage as an alternative to herbal compress and oil massage. Afterwards, drop by Face Bar in the same complex for a drink and some Indian food.

29 Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-713-6048. Open daily 9am-7pm. BTS Thong Lo

NEW

FlexiLexi

Headed to the yoga studio? For stylish and comfy ladies’ sportswear, check out this new Thai brand’s wide range of yoga bralettes, yoga pants, leggings and bikini cover-ups.

Their specialty is quick-drying and flexible fabrics that are perfect for yoga and swimming. The bikini tops also work as everydaywear, especially if you’re heading to the beach.

Available at www.flexilexi-fitness.com.

SPA AT FACE

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PROPERTY NEW

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M THONGLOR 10

Thailand’s high-end condominium brand Major Development has unveiled its latest project, M Thonglor 10, at the very center of Bangkok’s most buzzing neighborhood between Thonglor and Ekkamai (See Exploring, page 18). The building itself is quite something. M Thonglor 10 rises to 22 stories, its glass-house concept and floating clubhouse delivering a sense of futurism and awe. The property consists of 173 units with room types ranging from a 29-sq-meter one-bedroom suite to a 153-sq-meter penthouse. Prices start from B145,000 per sq meter.

141 Ekkamai Soi 12, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-381-5665.

BTS Thonglor. www.mde.co.th

Hot Spots BANGKOK’S LUXURY CONDOS

1

SUKHOTHAI RESIDENCE

Y SPOTLIGHT

A short walk from its sister hotel in the central business district, this property is designed by the awarding-winning architects Kerry Hill and Ed Tuttle. Although 41 stories tall, it has an urban resort theme and features five-star services like a 24-hour concierge and gourmet food delivery.

The 196 units start from B43 million for a 138-sqmeter two-bedroom unit to B487 million for a 1,200-sq-meter penthouse. Freehold.

Completed. MRT Lumpini, 3 South Sathorn Road, 02344-2888. www.sukhothairesidences.com.

2

MAHANAKHON

One of Bangkok’s most-talked-about developments comprises a retail center, outdoor plaza and ultra-luxurious condominium project.

Once complete, it will be Bangkok’s tallest building at 314 meters, spread over 77 floors. The superb location is a short walk to BTS Chong Nonsi and close to Silom and Sathorn Roads. The 194 apartments will be managed by The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, and range from a B43 million 146-sq-meter two-bedroom to a B358 million 840-sq-meter fivebedroom. Freehold.

Expected completion date: last quarter of 2015.

92 Narathiwas Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-234-1414.

BTS Chong Nonsi. www.rcr-bangkok.com

185 RAJADAMRI

3

185 RAJADAMRI

In one of Bangkok’s most prestigious locations, 185 Rajadamri is an elegantlydesigned 35-story condominium offering smashing views of The Royal Bangkok Sports Club and Lumpini Park. The project consists of 268 units ranging from a one-bedroom to a duplex penthouse. Facilities include a swimming pool, Jacuzzis, a gym, a yoga room and lounge. One-bedroom units are sold, but two beds are still available starting at B33 million for 107 sq meters.

Average price per square meter is B400,000. Freehold.

Completed. 185 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-651-9600. BTS Ratchadamri. www.185rajadamri.com

4

ORIENTAL RESIDENCE

Completed in 2011, there are still roughly 46 luxurious serviced apartments available for private ownership in this development in one of Bangkok’s sleekest neighborhoods. Elegantly decorated, the high-end property has only five room types ranging from a 54-sq-meter one-bedroom unit (starts at B15.5 millon) to a 290-sq-meter three-bedroom duplex penthouse (B79 million). Leasehold (30 years).

Completed. 110 Wireless Road, 02-215-9000. BTS Phloen Chit. www.oriental-residence.com

Noble Ploenchit

With an expected completion date of January 2017, this high-rise condo by the Noble property group is a rare new residential development for one of Bangkok’s best shopping and dining neighborhoods. At 51 stories, the sleek minimalist tower is the tallest building in the area, situated in four rai (6,400 sq meters) of private gardens. Units range from 40-sq-meter studios to grand 245-sq-meter duplexes. The average price is B220,000 per sq meter.

Sales office at 16/F, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 02-251-9955. www.noblehome.com

MAHANAKHON

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

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Sam Yan ÊÒÁ‹ҹ

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Bangkok Overview Key

Rama III Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ 3

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1 The Riverfont

!0 Victory Monument

Main road

2 Chatuchak Market

!1 Yaowarat (Chinatown)

BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

3 Vimanmek Mansion

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumpini Park

MRT

5 Khaosan Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

!5 Siam Paragon

River/Klong (canal)

7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

!6 CentralWorld and Zen

8 Wat Pho

!7 Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

9 Wat Arun

!8 Thailand Cultural Centre

Pier

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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

36 W H E R E T H A I L AND I DECEMB ER 2 0 1 4

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Y

Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service.

Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price.

There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The three main apps are Easy Taxi (www.easytaxi.com/th), Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok). All of these are in English language and charge a fee on top of the meter price.

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS­ Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines.

Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130.

The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40.

There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak.

Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS­ While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (klong) still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 DECEMBER 2014 I W HER E THA ILA N D 37

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Y

21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

4

7 1 Enjoying views of the Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun) with Thai food and cocktails at Sala Rattanakosin, the stylish restaurant by the Chao Phraya River. See page 8.

7 Drinking cocktails in an outdoor cactus garden balcony while listening to live music at the newly opened Do Not Disturb and Yukuu Yakiniku Bar. See page 30.

1

!8

!2

!3

!2 Staying up late, or getting up early, to experience the chaos of the daily flower trading at Pak Klong Talat, Thailand’s largest flower market. See page 24.

!7 Shopping for unique vintage finds, sipping candy-colored cocktails and mingling with Bangkok’s hipsters at Talad Rotfai. See page 24.

!8 Trying the sophisticated Thai 2 Shopping for gifts made from 8 Admiring artwork and perfor- !3 Viewing street photography small plates and creative cocktails Thai silk at Jim Thompson shops.

See page 11.

3 Drinking in the cityscape from the al fresco bar of Octave on top of the Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit Hotel. See page 6.

4 Browsing for cutting-edge fashion design at the boutiques of Siam Center. See page 24.

mances from Bangkok’s avantgarde at HOF Art Space, the new art venue in Phra Kanong. See page 26.

9 Relaxing your senses with the sweet-almond-oil ayurvedic head massage at Devarana Spa. See page 34.

from Thai artist Manit Sriwanichpoom at Kathmandu Photo Gallery. See page 26.

!9 Drinking Southeast Asian-influ!4 Tasting the authentic Royal Thai enced cocktails while enjoying the Cuisine at the Blue Elephant, a fine-dining institution in a beautifully restored house. See page 28.

picturesque river scene at Sambal, the elegant riverside venue. See page 8.

!5 Shopping for some of the world’s @0 Listening to live jazz and sipping !0 Exploring Thonglor and Ekka- most exciting fashion brands at the absinthe at the quirky corner-shopmai, home to Bangok’s most buzz-

new luxe mall Central Embassy.

5 Checking out the quirky stores, ing restaurants, bars and art galler- See page 21. restaurants and bars, and the Sky Ferris Wheel, at the open-air riverside mall Asiatique. See page 24.

at Hot Rod, a new tapas bar. See page 18.

house cocktail lounge, Smalls. See page 30.

ies. See page 18.

!6 Getting a fresh perspective on @1 Getting a tension-relieving tra!1 Sampling molecular Indian dish- the history of Thailand with the ditional Thai massage influenced es at one of Asia’s best restaurants,

6 Treating yourself to Erb’s all- Gaggan. See page 28.

interactive exhibitions of the Museum Siam. See page 21.

by Wat Pho in a pleasant modern rustic setting at Myth. See page 34.

natural Eastern treat body serum.

See page 10.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

38 W H E R E T H AILAND I DECEMBER 2 0 1 4

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Where to find Hotels in Bangkok The AETAS Bangkok All Seasons Bangkok Siam Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11 Amari Watergate Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa Arnoma Baan Noppawong Bally’s Studio Suites Banyan Tree Bangkok Best Western Sukhumvit Cabochon Hotel & Residence Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Centara Grand at Central World Centara Hotels & Resorts Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok Conrad Bangkok Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Dusit Thani Bangkok Emporium Suites Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Four Points by Sheraton Four Seasons Bangkok GLOW Pratunam Grand Hyatt Erawan Grand Mercure Park Avenue Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Holiday Inn Silom Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 Hotel Muse Imperial Queens Park InterContinental Bangkok JW Marriott Bangkok King Power The Landmark Bangkok Le Fenix Sukhumvit LIT Bangkok Luxx Majestic Grande Mandarin Oriental Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit 57 Mercure & Ibis Bangkok Siam The Metropolitan Bangkok

WHERE DISTRIBUTION LIST_Dec_2014_NEW.indd 39

Millennium Hilton Miracle Grand Convention Montien Riverside Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit Sukhumvit Novotel Bangkok Siam Square Novotel Bangkok Impact Oaks Bangkok Sathorn The Okura Prestige Bangkok Park Plaza Sukhumvit Pathumwan Princess The Peninsula Bangkok Phachara Suites Plaza Athénée Bangkok Pullman Bangkok King Power Radisson Blu Plaza Radisson Suites Bangkok Ramada Encore Bangkok Ramada Plaza Menam Riverside Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Riva Surya Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers Siam Kempinski Shangri-La Bangkok Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit The Berkeley Hotel The Continent Hotel Bangkok The Davis Bangkok The Eugenia Hotel & Spa The Siam Siam @ Siam Design Hotel & Spa Sivatel Bangkok Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit Sofitel So Bangkok The St. Regis Bangkok The Sukhothai Bangkok Swissotel Le Concorde Swissotel Nai Lert Park VIE Hotel Bangkok ViVa Garden W Hotel Bangkok The Westin Grande Sukhumvit

where Thailand

Hotels in other provinces

Shopping Malls

Anantara Rasananda Koh Phangan Villa Resort & Spa Chandara Resort Conrad Koh Samui Dara Samui Beach Resort & Spa Villa Dusit D2 Baraquda Pattaya InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam JW Marriott Khao Lak Resort & Spa JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa Le Méridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa Renaissance Koh Samui Resort & Spa Renaissance Phuket Resort & Spa Samed Resorts Santiburi Resort Sheraton Krabi Sheraton HuaHin Resort & Spa Springfield Group Resort, Golf & Spa Tamarind Village Chiang Mai

CentralWorld The Emporium Department Complex Peninsula Plaza Siam Paragon The River City Shopping Complex

Serviced Apartments Adelphi Service Apartments Adelphi Suites Bangkok Ascott Sathorn Bangkok Asoke Residence Sukhumvit Cape House Serviced Apartments Courtyard Marriott Grand Mercure Bangkok Asoke Residence Marriott Executive Apartments Sathorn Vista Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park Mayfair Bangkok Marriott Executive Apartment Natural Ville Executive Residences, Bangkok Nonsri Residence Bangkok Oakwood Residence Sukhumvit 24 Oriental Residence Bangkok Somerset Lakeview Sukkhumvit 16 The River Condominium

Others Uber Black limousines TAT Tourist Information Counter at Suvarnabhumi Airport (arrivals) Chao Phraya Express Boats Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) Blue Elephant Restaurant Devarana Spa Elemis Spa at The St. Regis Bangkok The Kiwi Bangkok Sports Pub & Grill The Australian Pub & BBQ Yunomori Onsen & Spa Pizza Romana Pala La Grande Perle Kuppadeli Kalpapruek Jim Thompson Restaurant Viva & Aviv

Y Where reaches over 100,000 visitors each month.

For sales enquiries, contact where@asia-city.co.th or call 02-624-9638.

11/24/14 8:16 PM

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