Where® Thailand June 2015 by Where Thailand

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JUNE 2015 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

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Capital Trends Bangkok’s hottest designers

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CONTENTS where

l THAILAND l JUNE 2015

The Guide BANGKOK 23 DINING Where to find the best Asian fine-dining experiences, plus the city's best cooking schools.

26 NIGHTLIFE Riverside bars for a relaxing evening, and where to party till the early hours.

BANGKOK BY DESIGN

28 ARTS+ATTRACTIONS The hottest exhibitions in Bangkok's galleries this month.

Where to find Thai designer fashion and decor

NIGHTLIFE

29 SHOPS+SERVICES

10 PERFECT EVENINGS From craft beers and hipster hangouts to cabaret shows and cocktails, make the most of the night wherever you're staying.

Check out these night-and-day markets selling everything from flowers to vintage fashion.

30 HEALTH+WELLNESS Get active in the city at these adrenaline-pumping fitness facilities.

AROUND THAILAND

14 CHIANG MAI ESSENTIALS

The very best attractions, restaurants, cafes and nightspots in the Northern capital.

31 ATTRACTIONS

16 NEWS

Cultural performances, championship boxing bouts and entertainment for all the family.

Beach parties, cultural excursions and new openings across the country.

32 NAVIGATE

EXPLORING

Essential tips on getting around.

18 CHAROENKRUNG Bangkok's old riverside district is booming with art galleries and bars complementing the traditional architectural attractions.

18 General Manager Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor/Product Director Grégoire Glachant Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Regional Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Senior Designer Panita Thiraphapong

20 OLD TOWN

Staff Writer Pinnyada Tanitnon Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Lily Kittisrikangwan Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant On the cover Issue

HOT DATES

34 21 THINGS WE LOVE

Bangkok's finest religious and royal landmarks sit alongside laid-back bars and shop-house restaurants.

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com

MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

ALSO INSIDE

www.wherethailand.com

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

@where_thailand

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HOT DATES

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JUNE 13

All Rise

English R&B boy band and earlynoughties’ heartthrobs, Blue are back together and touring, scheduled to land in Thailand on Jun 13. Expect the band to take you through all their former hits like “All Rise,” “Sorry Seems to be the Hardest Word” and “Guilty.” Thunder Dome, 99 Popular Rd., 02-5045050. Tickets are B2,000-6,500, available at www.thaiticketmajor.com

JUNE 13

JUNE 6

JUNE 12-13

JUNE 20-21

Australian illusionist, magician and escape artist Cosentino makes his debut in Thailand as part of his 2015 world tour this June. Cosentino made his name in 2011 when he came second in Australia’s Got Talent, and has since been touring the world with his inventive, modern take on classic escapology and illusions. Earlier in 2015, he was named Magician of the Year at the annual awards ceremony.

Samed in Love (www.fb.com/samedinlove) music festival returns to the Gulf Coast island for the sixth year this June. Hosted on Haad Sai Kaew beach, the festival features well-loved local artists such as Paradox, Potato and Boom Boom Cash on their main stage, while the Monkey Magic DJ Team will oversee a foam party. Tickets are running out fast, so get yours now for B1,200 at goo.gl/GqNi2r.

Renowned international cellist Mark Kosower joins the Thai Philharmonic Orchestra as a soloist for Master of the Cello, a grand performance of Dvorak’s cello concerto in B minor Op. 104. The orchestra itself will be conducted by Dr. Russell Guyver, who will also showcase his arrangements of Smetana and Schumann.

The citizens of Phuket celebrate their indigenous Chinese and Western Baba Nonya roots at the annual Baba Wedding Festival, held in Phuket’s Old Town. Watch real Baba-style weddings occur in the beautiful SinoPortuguese-style mansions, with traditional rituals, classic vintage-bridal attire and a vibrant parades featuring a lion dancers. Be sure to dress respectfully and avoid dull, gloomy colors, as they are usually associated with funerals.

TWISTED REALITY

Centara Grand Convention Center, 22/F, Centralworld Department Store, 999/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-1234. Tickets are B1,500-2,500, available at www.thaiticketmajor.com

ISLAND ROMANCE

Haad Sai Kaew beach, Koh Samed. Phone089-811-1901. Tickets are B1,200, available at www.thaiticketmajor.com

GOING SOLO

Prince Mahidol Hall, Mahidol University, 999 Phuttamonton Rd., 02-8002530. Tickets are B300-500, available at www.thaiticketmajor.com

RUSTIC WEDDINGS

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FASHION

BANGKOK BY DESIGN

THE TAILOR CHECK-LIST Observe these rules before visiting any of Bangkok’s tailors

The top brands and places to shop for cutting-edge local fashion and decor in Bangkok. By Vasachol Quadri

VVON SUGUNNASIL

A good suit takes time Remember that the suit of your dreams is going to take at least two fittings, sometimes more. And be very wary of anywhere offering 24-hour turn-around times.

Quality costs money

CONTAINER

Yes, Bangkok tailors can be dirt cheap, but remember that good fabric still costs money. Expect to pay a minimum of B13,000 (over US$400) for a pure-wool suit.

Don’t believe the labels Many bolts of cloth will have a running seam promising the finest Italian wool. Chances are, it’s a polyester-blend made in China. The shops listed below can all be trusted to tell you exactly what fabric they’re selling.

Speak directly with the tailor

GREYHOUND

KLOSET

WOMEN’S FASHION Siam Square and Siam Center shopping malls are the best places to hunt out contemporary Thai fashion. Check out Thailand’s longeststanding ready-to-wear brand Greyhound and its second line Playhound (3/F, Siam Center, 989 Rama 1 Rd., 02-251-4917, 02252-3861). Greyhound offers formal but chic work-to-party styles for both men and women, all in minimal color tones and cutting patterns. Playhound features younger, more playful designs. Both have plenty of unisex items, with a boyish look for women. If you’re after something more girly and sweet, Kloset (2/F, Central Chidlom, 1027, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-251-2456) offers basic items like A-line

skirts, crop tops and off-shoulder dresses in a pastel and dream-like color palette. One of the newer brands on the scene, Milin (3/F, Siam Center, 02-658-1134), offers bold, sexy and stylish designs. For prints, check out another of Thailand’s best-established brands, Fly Now (1/F, Siam Paragon, 02-610-9410), whose current work features paintings and bold illustrations. Do also visit Issue (11/3 Siam Square 3, 02-279-5797), for Asianinspired streetwear. The Wonder Room, Another Alternative and The Selected are the three major multi-label stores where you can find plenty more interesting Thai brands that don’t yet have their own shops.

Very often, the person who greets you will be a salesman who knows nothing about tailoring and wants to make as much commission as possible. This can be avoided by asking if the person you’re speaking to is actually the tailor, and if not, is he available.

4 TAILORS WE CAN VOUCH FOR Where to get your bespoke suit Vvon Sugunnasil The Barkyard BKK, 65 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 086899-9888. Open Tue-Sun 11am-7pm; Monday by appointment. IG: vvonsugannasil

Narin Couture 180 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Soi 8-10), 02-2519237. Open Mon-Sat 10:30am-9:30pm. BTS Nana. www.narin-couture.com

Pinky Tailor Mahatun Plaza Arcade, 888/40 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-253-6328. Open Mon-Sat 10am7:30pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www.pinkytailor.com

Tailor on Ten 93 Sukhumvit Soi 8, 084-877-1543. Open Mon-Sat 9:30am-7pm. www.tailoronten.com

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CONTAINER

DULY

ANOTHER STORY

MEN’S FASHION

HOME DECOR

If you are looking for formal ready-towear menswear with classic design and tailor-made quality, check out Duly (2/F, Siam Kempinski Hotel, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-251-8818) for both jackets and shirts. Greyhound and Playhound specialize in metro-style suits and accessories, as well as minimal work-meets-casual-wear. For something younger and more avantgarde, check out Painkiller (3/F, Siam Center, 02-658-1145) for clothing and Rubber Killer (Available at The Eco Shop, 087,099-0639) for bags made from recycled car tires. Local canvas and leather accessories label Container (2/F, Amarin Plaza, 469 Phloen Chit Rd.) turns out really well-made wallets, pouches and bags with a very Monocle Magazine aesthetic. Find them in multi-label store The Selected (3/F, Siam Center, 02-658-1194), alongside the equally stylish swim trunks of Timo—both names are making an international reputation.

Bangkok is filled with young product designers worth watching. Until recently, most of their work was sold outside the city center, but a few stores downtown shopping malls put the spotlight on local home decor. Room Concept Store (4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605644) is a multi-label furniture boutique where you can find a range of furnishings big and small. Brands worth looking out for include Two Four Eight Studio and the cutting-edge 56th Studio for furniture, home decoration from Plural Design and Pana Object, and the DeMark Award-winning Grey Ray for smaller stationery items. Also check out Another Story (4/F, The Emquatier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6138), which opened in April 2015 with a similar concept but also incorporating international designers. Around 30 percent of stock is dedicated to Thai designers. Check out the Chiang Mai-based tie-dye brand Kanjana, new lighting studio Kalalumin as well as Thinkk Studio. For truly-skilled, handmade craftsmanship, Alexander Lamont (3/F, Gaysorn, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-6561048)is a Thailand-based furniture maker that creates objet d’art using Japanese lacquer and marquetry techniques.

PAINKILLER

ROOM CONCEPT STORE

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FASHION

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VUUDH

HARNN

THE JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

KARMAKAMET

SPA PRODUCTS

TRADITIONAL GIFTS

Founded in 2000, Erb (Thonglor Soi 12, 02-255-5872) is one of Thailand’s leading skincare and spa product brands, building its reputation on the use of natural ingredients and local herbs. The brand specializes in bath cream, body cream and body butter as well as feet and hand-care products and room fragrances. Harnn (4/F, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-9715) is a similarly natural-ingredient-focused Thai brand, though more geared towards home spa products—diffusers, aromatic oil burners, room perfumes, bath salts, massage oils and body creams. Its second line, Vuudh (4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-610-5826), specializes in interior fragrances that strictly use 100-percent natural ingredients. Thann (2/F, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-658-6557) is another local market leader, offering body, face-, lip- and hair-care products on top of an aromatherapy line. Youngest in the line but worth a visit is Karmakamet (1/F, Yada Building, Silom Rd., 02-237-1148). The brand starts with all about aromatic product with longlist of scent that also welcome you to mix your own blend. Now the brand also branches out a little with soap, bath gel and body lotion line.

The pioneering Thai silk brand Jim Thompson (9 Surawong Rd., 02-632-8100) stocks silk clothes, ties scarves and home accessories like pillowcases, all with a traditional touch. On top of the shop on Surawong Road, the Jim Thompson House (6/1 Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-612-3603) is home to a museum on Thai silk manufacturing and a lovely restaurant. To shop from a long list of Thaimade goods, visit OTOP Heritage (4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-6105826), which specializes in luxury handicraft products selected from different producers around the country, most of them home decorative items and fashion accessories.

AMAZING THAILAND GRAND SALE Scoop big discounts this June.

June is the month to catch one of Thailand’s biggest sale events of the year, the Amazing Thailand Grand Sale Fair. The nation-wide sale kicks off from Jun 11-14 at Queen Sirikit National Convention Center, leadingas local brands gather to offer special deals for everything from home decor to fashion. 60 New Rachadapisek Rd., 02-229-300

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NIGHTLIFE

4 PERFECT EVENINGS

Everything you need to know for four perfect nights out in Bangkok. See our map of the city, page 32 By Pinnyada Tanitnon

ZOOM

A.R. SUTTON

A THONGLOR-EKKAMAI The crowd: Young, Thai and single Arguably two of the trendiest streets in Bangkok, Thonglor and Ekkamai are always a safe choice for an eventful night out at places with character. Cutting through the array of themed bars with impeccable interiors and rooftop drinking venues, we recommend starting the night at Soul Food Mahanakorn (56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7708). The restaurant dishes out very potent signature cocktails as well as a brief menu of perfectly executed Thai regional dishes to an international crowd. Just down the street, the Iron Fairies (404 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02714-8875) is a bar like no other—a Dickensian factory with crumbling brick walls and a scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make miniature metal fairies. Drop in around 9pm for some cocktails before heading to A.R. Sutton (G/F Park Lane Ekkamai, Sukhumvit Soi 63), a short taxi ride away on the neighboring Soi Ekkamai. Here you’ll find a colonial-inspired lounge resembling a forgotten British gentlemen’s club. Be sure to try the owner’s private brand of gin, Iron Balls, which is distilled and bottled on the premises. By 11pm, things start to heat

OCTAVE

SMALLS

up down the street at Dark Bar (2/F, Ekamai Mall, Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-381-9896)—probably the most popular late-night spot in town right now. Open just three nights a week (Wed, Fri and Sat), it attracts everyone from the underground party crowd to local celebrities. Drinks are served at rock-bottom prices.

ROOFTOP PICK OCTAVE Striking views from a part of Bangkok with few high-rise bars. The food focuses on Asianthemed bar snacks. 45/F, Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000. Open daily 5pm-1am. BTS Thong Lo

VESPER

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B SATHORN The crowd: A mix of professionals This is Bangkok’s business district, but thanks to a wave of cool new bars and inventive Thai restaurants, the area is anything but dull at night. Modern Asian restaurant Le Du (399/3 Silom Soi 7, 092919-9969) regularly gets labeled the most exciting kitchen in town right now. The young Thai chef graduated from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA), and his dishes focus heavily on local and seasonal Thai produce. After dinner, go around the corner to Namsaah Bottling Trust (401 Silom Soi 7, 02-636-6622), a cocktail lounge set in a 100-year-old house painted pink. Pull up a seat in the brightly wallpapered downstairs bar and work through the long list of recognizable classics given local twists. Also within walking distance, you’ll find the Bangkok venue of Ku De Ta (Sathorn Square Complex, 98 Sathorn Rd., 02-108-2000), a vast indoor rooftop nightlife spot that packs in both a sultry bar for watching the city skyline, a club lounge for DJ sets and also a live music venue. For a more down-to-earth experience that remains lively till long into the night, hop into a cab and drop by Smalls (186/3 Suanphlu Soi 1, 095-585-1398), which houses three levels of live music and DJs, as well as a bar specializing in absinthe.

ROOFTOP PICK ZOOM Fortieth-floor views, a full bar, a forwardthinking menu, a dance floor and fair prices. 40/F, Anantara Bangkok Sathorn Hotel, 36 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-210-9000. Open daily 5:30pm-1am. BTS Chong Nonsi

PARK SOCIETY

C SILOM

D SUKHUMVIT SOI 45-53

The crowd: Swanky and gay

The crowd: NGOs and hipsters

The gay party crowd rubs shoulders with local city clickers in Silom’s cosmopolitan restaurants, seedy bars and hedonistic nightclubs. Begin your night with a barrel-aged cocktail at Vesper (10/15 Convent Rd., 02-235-2777), a bar and restaurant popular for its modern takes on potent, mid-century drinks, as well as refined, Spanish- and Italian-influenced bar snacks. For dinner, be sure to book ahead to get a table at Eat Me (1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, 02238-0931), which ranked 25th in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants this year. Chef Tim Butler’s kitchen pulls off bold combinations like Alaskan scallops with avocado, yuzu and pancetta, while a simple chicken salad is elevated to new heights by the addition of red papaya, toasted coconut and betel leaf. To get the party started, head to Silom Soi 2, a dead-end street filled with gay clubs (bring I.D., they are very strict) churning out mixes of Britney and Beyonce. The biggest and most popular in the soi is DJ Station (02-266-4029), where you’ll find three stories filled with a fun gay crowd. Make it before 11:15pm to see their nightly cabaret show. If your straight friends start complaining, then head over to Silom Soi 4, where a more mixed crowd gathers at Tapas (02-234-4737) for house music with a strong Latin influence, accompanied by live percussionists on the weekends.

From multi-purpose art spaces to restaurants serving gua bao and bars spinning dancehall vinyl, these streets are a hipster’s paradise. Start your evening on the fancier end of the scale near Phrom Phong BTS station, where Quince (Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478) has one of the best garden terraces in town for a refreshing glass of white wine or a fruity cocktail—or sit in the greenhouse-style dining room to feel the benefit of air-con. As night falls, make your way along Sukhumvit to Opposite Mess Hall (27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6330), where Australian chef Jess Barnes draws on both Mediterranean and Asian influences while focusing on local produce. The fuss-free nature of the place means dishes like the steamed Chinese buns are often best eaten with your fingers or shared with friends (there’s a big emphasis on large cuts). In the same little alleyway, you’ll find WTF Bar & Gallery (7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02662-6426). This warm, European-style bar serves solid cocktails and plays host to good DJs and gigs. Later, get down with some retro Thai rhythms at WTF’s neighbor, Studio Lam (Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661), the superhip bar owned by DJ Maft Sai, a local record label owner who specializes in ’70s Thai funk and country tunes.

ROOFTOP PICK

PARK SOCIETY For a real breath of fresh air and a park view to boot, head up to the 29th floor of the super trendy Sofitel So. Inside is for fine dining on international cuisine, while out on the rooftop, it’s all about cocktails, lounge tunes and the striking view. STUDIO LAM

WANDERLUST

ROOFTOP PICK

WANDERLUST This rooftop space above Nakiya Japanese restaurant is a far cry from the high-rise hotel rooftop bars, but a big hit with the young, local crowd. Heineken is the only beer on tap; a mish-mash of music plays on the stereo. 5/F, Nakiya Japanese Restaurant Building, Thonglor Soi 13, 086-655-5328. Open daily 5pm-2am.

29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000. Open daily 5pm-12:30am. MRT Lumphini JUNE 2015 I W HERE THA ILA N D 11

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AROUND THAILAND EAT

CHIANG MAI ESSENTIALS

DOI INTHANON NATIONAL PARK

GRAPH CAFE

Whether you’re craving Northern Thai specialties, contemporary Thai food or Western comfort dishes, finding a good place to eat is not a challenge in this laidback town. A popular breakfast destinations is Smoothie Blues (32/8 Nimmanhemin Rd., 053-227-038), a small, cozy cafe specializing in fuss-free breakfast dishes with options ranging from banana pancakes to breakfast enchiladas. For local meals later in the day, stop by Huen Muan Jai (24 Ratchapruk Rd., 053-404998), a Lanna restaurant with a charming, down-to-earth environment run by a chef who was featured on the local TV cooking show Iron Chef. Another local favorite is Lamduan Faham (6/1 Moo 3, Changpuak, 053-212-798), a restaurant known for its delicious khao soi, a staple Northern dish consisting of noodles in a rich and spicy coconut broth. Little Lanna (248/42-43 Maneeopparat Rd., 082-388-3993) offers both classic dishes and fusion fare in a meticulously decorated setting. For a non-Thai option, head over to Chez Marco (15/7 Loi Kroh Rd., 053-207-032), an intimate restaurant boasting a FrenchMediterranean menu, or visit Ginger & Kafe at the House (199 Moonmuang Rd., Sriphum, 053-419-011) for Asian and Western dishes such as lamb shank slowly cooked with red wine and herbs.

AKHA AMA

ATTRACTIONS Nature lovers are in their element in Thailand’s mountainous north. Doi Inthanon National Park is a 2-hour drive from Chiang Mai city (we recommend getting their by motorbike or rental car), located on the highest mountain in Thailand, and home to treks which take in beautiful waterfalls, magnificent views and abundant wildlife. Inside the park you’ll also find the Napamaytanidol Chedi, built in honor of King Bhumibol’s 60th birthday. Adrenaline junkies should sign up for a zip-lining tour with companies such as Flight of the Gibbon (29/4 Chang Kachasarn Rd., Chang Klan, 053-010-660, www. treetopasia.com) or Zipline Skyline Adventure (259/121 Kankakok Village, Chang Klang, 053-270-378, www.skylineadventure.com). Although a little out of the way, a hidden gem worth visiting is Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. Founded in 1383, this temple requires its visitors to climb a total of 309 steps to get to the pagodas, but there is also a tram for those who don’t want to walk. If you’re looking to keep fit, check out Crossfit Chiang Mai (48/1 Un Ari Soi 1, 053-406-331, www.crossfitchiangmai.com), an outdoor fitness venue built from recycled materials and woven bamboo poles. RISTR8TO

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COFFEE

AFTER DARK

With its numerous coffee plantations, cooler weather and slow-life culture, it’s no surprise that Chiang Mai is known as Thailand’s coffee central. Owned by a renowned barista and latte artist, Ristr8to (15/3 Nimmanhemin Rd., 053-215-278) is arguably the most happening coffee shop in town, drawing queues outside every day even before the shop opens. Another favorite spot for coffee snobs is Graph Cafe (25/1 Ratvithi Lane 2, Sriphoom, 081-751-2365), a tiny shop serving medium-roasted brews made from local beans. Bay’s Cafe (Sukhothai Soi 5, Suthep, 086732-4205) on the other hand, specializes in drip coffee and refreshing 12-hour cold brews. The award-winning organic beans at Akha Ama (9/1 Hassadhisawee Rd., 086-915-8600) were developed by a former Thai NGO worker who turned to coffee-growing as a way to generate income for his home village.

Most of the nightlife options up north offer a relaxed vibe. Visit The Good View and Riverside (13 Charoenraj Rd., Wat Gate, 053-302-764) for a casual night out in a semi-open air bar with live music and great views. Another place that promises good live bands is North Gate Jazz (91/12 Si Phum Rd., 081-765-5246), a small, open-air shop-house often packed with locals and expats. For nibbles and cocktails, visit Mixology (61/6 Arak Rd., Phrasingha, 088-261-3057), a rustic-style bar decked in beautiful bric-a-brac. If you want to hang out with a slightly younger crowd, drop by Beer Republic (28 Nimmanhaemin Soi 11, 053-216-568), a Tuscan-style bar with a wide selection of draft beers. Feel like dancing? Nearby, Warm Up (40 Nimmanhaemin Rd., 053400-677) is a large bar with an outdoor area featuring long tables, live bands and DJs playing danceable mixes.

MIXOLOGY

BEER REPUBLIC

GETTING AROUND

ABDUL RAHMAN

With fewer public transportation options than Bangkok, here are the best ways to get around in the Northern city.

TKTK SONG TAEWS

Song Taews These color-coded open-air taxis—basically pick-up trucks with benches in the back—collect and drop off passengers around the city. Just flag one down when you see it passing.

Private Transportation We’d reccommend just booking a driver for the day. Ask your concierge for reccomendations.

Motorbikes Because of rush hour traffic during the week, renting a motorbike is the quickest and easiest option when it comes to traveling. Rental companies such as Buddy Bike Rental (Huay Kaew Rd., 053-225-227) will even deliver your bike to your hotel.

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AROUND THAILAND

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THE LATEST OPENINGS AND HAPPENINGS AROUND THE KINGDOM

GRAPH TABLE

CHIANG MAI

TABLE TALK One of Chiang Mai’s best-loved coffee shops, Graph Cafe, has branched out with a bigger food-focused venue, Graph Table (Moonmuang Soi 6, Sriphoom, 086-5673330. www.facebook.com/graphtable). The new spot welcomes you with a darkhued wooden facade, window boxes and hanging plants. The focus is on Italian cuisine made with organic local produce such as free-range eggs from a farm in Lamphun. For breakfast, expect artfully named egg dishes such as Monet (mashed avocado on salsa salad) and Post Modern (eggs Benedict with deboned emilano ham on toast). Of course, you’re still guaranteed a good cup of coffee, too.

KRABI

KANDY

PATTAYA

PARTY TIME

KANDY CRUSH

Cure your music festival withdrawals at the second Krabi Music Festival this Jun 20, held at the Sofitel Krabi Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort. Local pop legend J Jetrin will headline the night, with support from the hotel’s in-house and guest DJs. Entry costs B500 per person with one free drink, however the resort is also offering special packages for partygoers. A onenight stay for two people costs B3,990, while a two-night stay for two people is B6,980. Both packages come with two festival tickets and two free drinks. Before you start packing, don’t forget the dress code is strictly all-white.

A coastal resort not far from Bangkok has welcomed a new restaurant specializing in small plates of avant-garde European food. Kandy (304/64 Chateau Dale Plaza, Thappraya Road, Pattaya, www.kandypattaya.com) is a welcome addition to the town’s dining scene thanks to dishes from countries all over the world, such as Spain, Italy and even Poland. Try the tuna tartare (fresh tuna with capers, cucumbers, exotic spices served with passion fruit foam) and the Karoga Chicken (bite-size chicken pieces marinated in East Asian spices). The innovative cocktails served on a rolling bar are another highlight.

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whereExploring JUNE 2015 | BANGKOK

CHAROENKRUNG ROAD Charoenkrung celebrated its 150th anniversary last year, making it one of Bangkok’s oldest roads. Running along the Chao Phraya River and connecting the city’s major trade hubs, the area is filled with cultural attractions, from Rattanakosin Island to Chinatown, Silom and Sathorn. Thanks to a recent revival of Charoenkrung’s old shop-houses, there are now plenty of cool galleries and bars to be discovered, too.

BAMBOO BAR

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 18 CHAROENKRUNG

20 OLD TOWN

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EXPLORING

CHAROENKRUNG Y CHAROENKRUNG’S

TOP 5 STREET-FOOD STALLS

!8 Kao Kha Mu Charoen Sang Silom This famous (and crowded) spot serves Chinese-style stewed pork knuckle with rice. Come early before it sells out. 02-234-8036. Open daily 8:30am1:30pm

!9 Jok Prince Bangrak

NEW

One of the best congee (rice porridge) in Bangkok—a simple but powerful blend of velvety stewed rice, minced pork and poached egg.

TEP BAR

This is one of the most professional-looking spots among Charoenkrung’s new-wave of shop-house bars-slash-art spaces. It even has air-conditioning (rare in these parts) and an inviting rooftop. The interior makes good use of the venue’s crumbling old walls and raw appeal, emphasized with mood lighting and simple wooden tables. Along with all the regular local beers, they also do a good line of home-infused ya-dong—that’s a traditional herbal Thai spirit. Try the honeycomb option.

089-795-2629. Open daily 6am12pm, 4pm-9pm

@2 Room 69-71, Soi Nana, 098-467-2944. Open daily 5pm-midnight. MRT Hua Lamphong. www.facebook.com/tepbar @0 Prachak Pet Yang

ATTRACTIONS

GALLERIES

The area between sois 34-44 is rich with architectural attractions. Among them is the 1 Old Customs House (Charoenkrung Soi 36), which dates back to 1880 and was once the trading gateway between Bangkok and the rest of the world. It’s now used as the fire brigade’s headquarters. The recently renovated 2 General Post Office building next to Charoenkrung Soi 34 is another unique part of Bangkok’s architectural heritage, and one of the few Art Deco buildings to be found in the city. Religious highlights include the Thai-Chinese 3 Wat Suan Phlu temple

There are three worthwhile galleries in the 6 O.P. Garden compound (4, 6 Charoenkrung Soi 36, 02-266-0186). The oldest among them is Serindia Gallery (02-238-6410), founded in 2009 by publisher and art enthusiastic Shane Suvikapakornkul. The gallery focuses on Asian cultural artefacts,

ASSUMPTION CATHEDAL

(Charoenkrung Soi 42/1), where you can go and pay respect to the Chinese Guan Yin, and 4 Assumption Cathedral (Charoenkrung Soi 40), a Roman Catholic church dating back to the early 1900s that serves as the place of worship for the Catholic all-boys’ school Assumption College. There’s also a strong Muslim community based around the 5 Haroon Mosque (Charoenkrung Soi 36). Once the city’s largest wooden mosque, it has since been reconstructed in concrete but remains in keeping with traditional Islamic design.

GENERAL POST OFFICE

Rumored to have existed for over a century, this place specializes in khao na pet (roasted duck with rice) 02-234-3755. Open daily 7am8:30pm

JAO LONG LUK CHIN PLA

@1 Jao Long Luk Chin Pla & Jae Lee Luk Chin Pla

SERINDIA GALLERY

specifically from the Himalayan region. Next door, Modern Gallery (02-2386449) features work by revered Thai artists like Thawan Duchanee and Chalermchai Kositpipat along with the

Located opposite each other, these two restaurants are renowned for their noodles and fish balls. Both are great. Jao Long Luk Chin Pla 02-234-7499. Open daily 6am-9pm Jae Lee Luk Chin Pla 02-234-2791. Open daily 8am-9pm

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EXPLORING

CHAROENKRUNG

SPEEDY GRANDMA

new generation like Lolay Thaweesak Sritongdee. Right opposite, French gallerist Pascal Billieres’ Artha Gallery (02-630-9489) aims to promote rising Southeast Asian artists from Thailand, Myanmar and Vietnam. If you’re looking for something more edgy, head down to Charoenkrung Soi 28. 7 Speedy Grandma (089-508-3859) is a big favorite of Bangkok’s alt-indie crowd thanks to its regular exhibitions, film screenings and parties. Nearby, 8 Soy Sauce Factory (061-835-6824) is run by the same group of people and focuses on photography exhibitions.

houses, you’ll find the by-appointmentonly showroom of !2 P.Tendercool (02266-4344), which sells striking tables made from reclaimed slabs of teak. Though purchasing a table will set you back a six-figure sum, it’s worth dropping by purely for the spectacle, as well as to peer into next door’s !3 Fifty-Five Antiques (02-267-2297), which has some of the most impressive ancient Burmese artefacts in the city.

the standard for French fine dining in Bangkok. Its combination of old-school silver service and immaculately plated classic cuisine is still hard to beat. For a refined Cantonese experience under

DINING Thanks to the many luxury hotels that line the riverbank, this is one of the best areas in Bangkok for high-end dining. The city’s oldest and, by our reckoning, most atmospheric hotel, the !1 Mandarin Oriental, is home to Le Normandie, which for years set

SAMBAL

dripping chandeliers, check out Shang Palace at the !4 Shangri-La Hotel, (Charoenkrung Soi 44, 02-236-7777) where you’ll find a la carte dim sum as well as other Chinese favorites like Peking duck and whole suckling pig. In the same hotel, Angelini is a solid option for Italian cuisine, while !5 Sambal at the Royal Orchid Sheraton is a more laidback, stylish riverside venue that serves Southeast Asian cuisine with contemporary touches. Also see our pick of Charoenkrung’s best street food eats opposite.

LE NORMANDIE

NIGHTLIFE Opened back in 1953 but given a stunning renovation at the end of last year, the Mandarin Oriental’s !1 Bamboo Bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. To this day, it maintains a moody, lounge-lizard atmosphere made even better thanks to some of the city’s best cocktails (try the barrel-aged XO Sazerac). The recently opened !6 Soulbar (945 Charoenkrung Rd., 083-0922266) offers live music of a very different sort, in a casual shop-house kitted out with industrial furnishings. Located right by the Chao Phraya River, !7 Viva & Aviv is an open-air cocktail bar with a subtle (and chic) pirate theme. Also don’t miss @2 Tep Bar, the newest addition to the thriving Soi Nana (see opposite).

VIVA & AVIV

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The area is well-known for antiques and gemstones, as well as shipping services to help bring your goods home. 9 River City (Charoenkrung Soi 34, 02-237-0077) is a one-stop shopping complex that offers Thai craft, antiques and artwork by local artists. For fine fashion and decorative objects, !0 O.P. Place (Charoenkrung Soi 38, 02-237-4062) is filled with tailor shops, jewelry specialists and Thai handicraft souvenirs from The Chitralada Projects. It’s also worth taking a look at the historic !1 Mandarin Oriental hotel (Charoenkrung Soi 38, 02659-9000), where there are several high-end jewelry and fashion brands including Lotus Arts de Vivre (02236-0400) and Hong Kong-based resort-wear specialist Marie France Van Damme (02-630-9400). Tucked away in a complex of WWII-era ware-

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1 Old Customs House 2 General Post Office 3 Wat Suan Phlu Temple 4 Assumption Cathedral 5 Haroon Mosque 6 O.P. Garden - Serindia Gallery - Modern Gallery - Artha Gallery 7 Speedy Grandma 8 Soy Sauce Factory 9 River City !0 O.P. Place !1 Mandarin Oriental Hotel - Lotus Marie - France Van Damme - Le Normandie - Bamboo Bar !2 P. Tendercool !3 Fifty-Five Antiques !4 Shangri-La Hotel - Shang Palace - Angelini !5 Royal Orchid Sheraton (Sambal) !6 Soulbar !7 Viva & Aviv !8 Kao Kha Mu Charoen Sang Silom !9 Jok Prince Bangrak @0 Prachak Pet Yang @1 Jao Long Luk Chin Pla & Jae Lee Luk Chin Pla Nare

!7 9

SHOPPING

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SOY SAUCE

@2 Tep Bar

GETTING THERE RIVER CITY

Getting to this part of Charoenkrung is easy. Simply take the BTS (Silom line) to Saphan Taksin station. From there you can either explore Charoenkrung by foot or take one of the free hotel boats that shuttle guests from Saphan Taksin pier.

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EXPLORING

OLD TOWN Y SPOTLIGHT

Wat Pho

THA MAHARAJ This themed community mall looks to recapture the charm of the Old Town’s architecture. The riverside pavilion consists of over 50 open-air restaurants and shops spread over seven buildings styled in keeping with the area’s historic roots. There’s also a riverside promenade and community garden. As well as shops dedicated to fashion and beauty, you’ll also find specialists dealing in antiques and Thai amulets. !6 11/1 Maharaj Rd., 02-866-3163-4, 090-926-5265. Open daily 10am-10pm

Start your walking tour from Prachan Pier (Tha Prachan in Thai) with a visit to 1 Tha Prachan and Amulet Market (open daily 7am-5pm), where ancient Buddha images, amulets and talismans are displayed along the footpath and in small lanes. Local advice is recommended if you plan on taking home any good-luck souvenirs. Nearby, you’ll find the gorgeous, if run-down, 2 National Museum (4 Na Phra Tha Rd., 02-2241333), which houses some of the most impressive art and antiques in the country. In addition to historic pieces from the Dvaravati Srivijaya to Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods, the museum features regional art like Indian Gandhara, Chinese weapons, ancient ceramics and musical instruments. At the other end of Sanam Luang is the most-visited landmark in Thailand, 3 Grand Palace and

Wat Phra Kaew (open daily 8:30am4:30pm. Entry B350). Construction on the royal residence of the first king of the current Chakri Dynasty began in 1762, and the complex is split into three zones: the Outer Court, where you’ll find Wat Phra Kaew and the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred Buddha image; the Middle Court, which contains the Dusit Maha Prasat and Chakri Maha Prasat buildings; and the Inner Court,

GRAND PALACE AND WAT PHRA KAEW

6 Sanamchai Rd., Phra Nakhon. 02-255-4771, Tha Thien Pier. Open daily 8am-6pm. B100. www.watpomassage.com

AFTERNOON

he Rattanakosin area, commonly called the Old Town, is tucked inside a bend in the Chao Phraya River and encompasses some of the city’s most revered cultural landmarks. But beyond the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, there are also some excellent restaurants and beautiful riverside bars.

MORNING

Famous as both the home of the 46-meter-long reclining Buddha and as a center of traditional massage, it even offers courses to learn for yourself.

QUEEN SIRIKIT MUSEUM OF TEXTILES

former residence of the royal consorts. Be sure to get there early before the day is too hot. Beware, touts will tell you the palace is closed for a national holiday. Ignore them! On the same grounds, you’ll also find the 4 Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles (Na Phra Lan Rd., Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, 02-255-9430), which tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand. Highlights include the queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading international designers.

Behind the Grand Palace, on the bank of the Chao Phraya River, is the twoyear-old 5 Nagaraphirom Park. What was once a row of shop-houses and several other old buildings is now a breathable green space with views of the Grand Palace. Relax among trees and lotus ponds and enjoy a great view of the Temple of Dawn before you continue on your walk. Next, pay your respects to the 43-meter-long reclining Buddha at 6 Wat Pho (open daily 8am-5pm), whose three-meter-tall feet are inlaid with mother of pearl displaying 108 Buddhist symbols (see

WAT PHO

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EXPLORING

OLD TOWN Spotlight). In a beautiful colonial-style building nearby, 7 Museum Siam (4 Sanam Chai Rd., 02-225-2777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm) is one of Bangkok’s best museums, portraying the history of Thailand through multimedia installations and interactive exhibitions. The venue also hosts an interesting lineup of rotating exhibitions.

PHRA ATHIT HOTSPOTS Some of the Old Town’s best venues line this charming riverside road.

!3 Escapade The specialty here is Angus beef burgers that regularly rank among Bangkok’s best. Double your intake with a Quarter Cow (two beef patties, two slices of cheddar cheese with truffle sauce) and be sure to try the decadent smoothie cocktails.

SHEEPSHANK

112 Phra Athit Rd., 081-406-3773. Open Tue-Sun noon-midnight

!4 Sheepshank This restaurant is designed to resemble a sophisticated boat house where you can sit back and enjoy views of the river and Rama 8 Bridge while eating Spanish dishes like seafood paella with saffron. 47 Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-5165. www.sheepshankpublichouse.com MUSEUM SIAM

!5 Pipit Banglamphu Thanks to the efforts of the Banglamphu community, plans to demolish Bangkok’s first printing school, which dates back to 1924, were derailed, and the building recently reopened as the Pipit Banglamphu Museum. Registered a place of national importance by the Fine Art Department of Thailand, the museum focuses on the culture of Bangkok’s Rattanakosin Island area, as well as the printing school’s history.

EVENING

Next to Phra Sumen Fort, Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-1850. Entry B100. Closed Mondays. www.fb.com/pipitbanglamphu ESCAPADE

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After exploring Thailand’s heritage, take a break at 8 Sala Rattanakosin (39 Soi Ta Tien, Maharat Rd., 02-622-1388) and enjoy Thai food with great views of the 9 Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun). This stylish riverside venue boasts a small number of guestrooms but half of the building is dedicated to wining and dining. There’s also a rooftop bar— the perfect place for sipping cocktails. If you’re in the mood for more drinks, head to !0 The Deck (Arun Residence, 36-38 Maharaj Rd.), a charming outdoor venue just a short walk from Sala Rattanakosin. Set in a five-room boutique hotel, The Deck offers a delightful atmosphere in which to enjoy another drink or two, and also has a sophisticated Thai food menu. Finish your Old Town tour with a night visit to !1 Pak Klong Talad (open 24 hours), Bangkok’s largest flower market. Flowers from not only Thailand but around the world arrive here each day to be distributed to hotels, restaurants and small retailers. You’ll find everything from local jasmine

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to imported red roses. Fresh batches arrive after midnight, which is when you’ll get to experience the busiest trading atmosphere. If you’ve still got some energy left, go mingle with backpackers from all over the world on the notorious !2 Khao San Road. Our top addresses there: Bombay Blues, Hippie de Bar and Fabulous Bar & Dessert Cafe.

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1 Tha Prachan and Amulet Market Museum 3 Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew 4 Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles 5 Nagaraphirom Park 6 Wat Pho 7 Museum Siam 8 Sala Rattanakosin 9 Wat Arun !0 The Deck !1 Pak Klong Talad !2 Khao San Road !3 Escapade !4 Sheepshank !5 Pipit Banglamphu !6 Tha Maharaj !7 Babble & Rum (See on page 26)

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GETTING THERE

It’s not easy to get to the old town as there is no the sky train or MRT coverage, and a car journey can take up to an hour due to heavy traffic. The most convenient route is perhaps to take the sky train to BTS Saphan Taksin and catch a boat from Sathorn Pier to Pra Athit Pier.

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ThewhereGuide JUNE 2015 | BANGKOK NEW

KOM-BA-WA

This bold and inventive Japanese restaurant resides in a cutely-decorated shophouse in the up-and-coming Suan Phlu neighborhood. On top of sushi made using premium ingredients like fresh scallop, try chef Goro Takatsu’s aged Tajima wagyu beef steak with ponzu jelly and squid ink ramen with Maine lobster and uni sauce. The desserts are equally fancy, such as the must-try mochi with red bean mousse and strawberry jelly. 39/19 Soi Suan Phlu, Sathorn Rd., 02-679-3775. Open daily 6-10:30pm.

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 23 DINING 26 NIGHTLIFE

28 ART + ATTRACTIONS 29 SHOPS + SERVICES

30 HEALTH + WELLNESS 31 ATTRACTIONS

32 NAVIGATE

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GUIDE

DINING NEW

PRAI RAYA

The classic Phuket restaurant Raya has now arrived in Bangkok as Prai Raya, serving Southern Thai cuisine made from ingredients sent straight from Phuket. The dining room pays homage to the original branch’s Sino-Portuguese styling with its patterned tiled floor and vaulted doors. Signature options include kang nue poo bai chaploo (crab curry with piper leaves) and mhoo horng (Southern-style braised pork), while there are also new dishes like goong kuhn ya (grandma’s fried river prawns) and hor mhok poo (steamed Thai custard with crab). 59 Sukhumvit Soi 8, 02-253-5556. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm. BTS Nana

3 GREAT PIZZA PLACES

Hot Spots CLASSICAL THAI CUISINE

NAHM

David Thompson’s Nahm serves fiery, multi-course set menus that offer devoutly authentic flavors and plenty of choice. We use the word “course” loosely, as this is true, communal Thai-style dining. Try the salad of fresh river prawns with pork and Asian pennywort, and the perfectly balanced coconut and tumeric curry of blue swimmer crab served with kanom jin (traditional Thai rice noodles). Metropolitan Hotel, 27 Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3388. Open daily 7-10:30pm; Mon-Fri noon-2pm. MRT Lumphini

PIZZA MASSILIA

BENJARONG PIZZA PALA ROMANA

1 PEPPINA 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-1197677. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm-midnight 2 PIZZA MASSILIA MK Gold Parking Lot, Silom Soi 1 (Sala Daeng), 02-259-9294. Open Tue-Sun 5:30-10pm. MRT Silom 3 PIZZA PALA ROMANA Room #1, Asoke, 02-259-1228-9. Open Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun 11am-midnight. MRT Sukhumvit.

NAHM

BO.LAN

Chef couple Bo and Dylan (both formerly worked at David Thompson’s Michelinstarred Thai restaurant, Nahm) make all their Thai food from scratch, including the curry pastes, using only the best ingredients. Their traditional style, jazzed up with a few modern plating touches, has earned them global recognition. We recommend the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu regularly changing to reflect seasonal products. Bo.lan’s stylish house prominently features dark wood and ceiling covered with kradong (flat baskets). 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-2961-2. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-11am; Thu-Sun noon-2:30pm. BTS Thong Lo

BENJARONG

The food at this signature Thai restaurant for one of Bangkok’s old-guard hotels was given a total revamp by the former head chef at Sra Bua. It’s still devoutly Thai as far as flavors go, but incorporates European slow-cooking methods, and plates food with considerate modern touches. The result is highly refined but also satisfyingly authentic. For the best experience, we recommend opting for one of the seasonal tasting menus.

Dusit Thani, 946 Silom Rd., 02-200-9000. Open daily 6-10pm; Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm. MRT Silom

BO.LAN

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TASTE OF THE CITY

DINING HONG KONG Recent Openings

KITAOHJI

A 70-year-old Japanese kaiseki restaurant from Ginza.

212 Thonglor Soi 8, 02-174-7997. Open Tue-Sun 6-11pm.

ITALICS

This Italian restaurant lets organic and artisanal products from local producers shine.

63/3 Soi Ruam Rudi, 02-253-2410. Open Daily 8am-11pm. BTS Phloen Chit

MARCEL

This casual restaurant and bar serves comforting French food.

Sathorn Soi 10, 02-635-3533. Open TueSun, 6pm-1am. BTS Chong Nonsi

Advertise your business with us 足 starting from B5,000

INDIQUE

A new spot for modern Indian cuisine.

Park 22, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 089-499-1133. Open daily 11am-1pm

Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Credit card payment accepted.

24 W H E R E T H A I L AND I DECEMB ER 2 0 1 1 I www.wheretraveler.com

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GUIDE

DINING

RUEN URAI

This century-old house outfitted with beautiful antiques is just as stunning outside as inside. Paying homage to the original owner, who was a herbal medicine practitioner, the menu incorporates strong herbs and spices such as green peppercorn, wild ginger, galangal and turmeric. Ingredients are of high quality and the curry pastes taste like they’re made from scratch. We’re particularly drawn to the grilled river prawns with spicy galangal dressing and wild boar sautéed with spicy curry and herbs. Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. BTS Sala Daeng

RUEN URAI

BLUE ELEPHANT

The flagship branch of the globallyknown Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts. Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authentic flavor. While more modern Thai restaurants have lately grabbed most column inches, Blue Elephant is still worth a visit for both atmosphere and food.

COOKING SCHOOLS

Issaya Cooking Studio

Blue Elephant

The Oriental Cooking School

Located in the basement of a luxury shopping mall, the school offers a fuss-free experience for those who want to learn how to make classic Thai dishes. Each student has a spacious personal cooking station where, after each demonstration, they are left to get cooking. Classes are held by guest chefs including Ian Kittichai, a local cooking personality and the head of Issaya Siamese Club restaurant—where many of the recipes come from.

Held on the second floor of the restaurant’s stunning colonialstyle mansion, Blue Elephant’s cooking classes specialize in Royal Thai cuisine for all levels, and are led by the world-renowned restaurant group’s founder, Nooror Somany Steppe, and her daughter, Sandra. The instructors also guide you on replacement ingredients for food items that are hard to find outside Thailand. Classes end with a spread of your creations in a private dining room. Reserve in advance; it gets full quickly (also see page 23).

Right beside Mandarin Oriental’s signature Thai restaurant, Sala Rim Naam, is the hotel’s cooking school. Dishes include spring rolls, tom kha ghai (spicy chicken soup with coconut milk) and khao kluk kapi (rice with shrimp paste served with raw mangoes, red onions, sliced omelette, dried shrimp, sweet pork and chili). After the demonstrations, participants divide into groups and head to a spacious cooking station to prepare each dish before lunchtime, when they get to eat their own creations. The newly-renovated venue also has an herb garden filled with Thai food staples.

LG/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5636. BTS Phloen Chit

233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. BTS Surasak

Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave., Charoenkrung Rd., 02-6599000

233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Surasak

Y SPOTLIGHT

Gaggan After building a solid foundation in Indian and Italian cooking at hotel restaurants, Gaggan Anand did a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, the former modern-gastro capital of the world. His eponymous restaurant serving molecular Indian cooking ranked No. 1 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2015. Expect the unexpected like foams, spherification, dehydration and more alongside traditional dishes of Indian curry. 68/1 Lang Suan Rd., 02-652-1700. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 6pm-midnight

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE NEW

MARCEL

This casual French bar in the swinging Sathorn Soi 10 neighborhood is run by three guys with previous experience working at restaurants and bars in Paris. On the ground floor is a bar which serves cocktails and tapas like pork terrine, beef balls and camembert cromesqui, while upstairs is a proper restaurant. Expect to be drinking alongside the young, international art and fashion crowd. French. Sathorn Soi 10. 02-635-3533. Open TueSun 6pm-1am. BTS Chong Nonsi

Hot Spots RIVERSIDE BARS

BABBLE & RUM

Y SPOTLIGHT

The main restaurant (ground floor) and bar (second floor) of this welcoming riverside hotel next to Phra Arthit Pier are decorated like a contemporary French cafe, finished in dark woods, mirrors and leather-clad couches. An outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area make it the perfect spot for a chilled night out. The menu features Thai and intercomfort food and plenty of cocktails. Try the Jelly Riva (vodka, melon syrup, lime juice on top of jelly). 1-2/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Athit Rd., 02-633-5000. Open daily 6:30am-midnight

BABBLE & RUM

SALA RATTANAKOSIN EATERY & BAR

This boutique on the Chao Phraya river offers stunning views of Wat Arun. The renovated fourstory shop-house boasts a small number of guestrooms but half of the building is dedicated to wining and dining, courtesy of chef Tony Wrigley, whose restaurant whips up some pretty impressive Thai food. For us though, the highlight is its rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping a great selection of cocktails. SAMBAL

Sala Rattankosin Hotel, Maharaj Rd., 02-622-1388. Open daily 7-10:30am, 11am-4:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm

SAMBAL

Run by Joseph Boroski, creator of cocktail lists for sophisticated bars and many five-star hotels, this is a hidden gem among Bangkok’s countless bars—and by hidden, we really mean it. Look for the women in red dresses outside a “karaoke” lounge, turn left and head to the end of the street. Once inside, you’ll be served cocktails tailored to your requirements (there’s no menu) using ingredients you can’t find anywhere else in town.

The stylish riverside venue serves Southeast Asian cuisine with a contemporary touch. Opt to sit under the enormous banyan tree, close to the cabana-like bar and picturesque river scene. Apart from the five-star views, you can expect delightful dishes like the Bali bouillabaisse —rich in both texture and flavor. There is a good list of tropical-feeling signature cocktails, too, such as Mangkut Drowning: Barbados dark rum with mangosteen puree. Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 2 Charoen Krung Soi 30, 02-266-9214. Open daily 5-10:30pm, 4pm-1am

J. Boroski Mixology

Between Sois 5 and 7, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-712-6025 SALA RATTANAKOSIN EATERY & BAR

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE TOP NIGHTCLUBS

Do Not Disturb This club specializes in EDM from local DJs as well as live bands. The motel-themed decor begins with 10 fake hotel doors, leading to an interior divided into four different sub-sections. The bar looks pricey at first but bottles do come with free-flow mixers. Upstairs is a yakiniku bar (Open 6pm-1am) and an outdoor balcony.

SHEEPSHANK

Set in what was once an old boatyard right by Phra Arthit Pier, this restaurant’s former life can still be seen in the form of the old pulleys, crates and buoys that adorn a dining area that’s been polished up in an industrial style. There are indoor and outdoor seating options available, but if you’re feeling hot, seat yourself in the airconditioning and enjoy Modern American comfort dishes like the vegetable tagine with almond chickpea couscous (B280) and oxtail tortellini with brown butter and walnuts (B320). They also serve a decent selection of wines, as well as Italian craft beer Birra Menabrea. 47 Phra Athit, 02-629-5165. Open Tue-Thu 5:30pmmidnight; Fri-Sun 5:30pm-1am

Behind Nunglen and Escobar, Ekkamai Soi 7, 094446-6269. Open Tue-Sun 8pm-2am

VIVA AVIV

Located right by Chao Phraya River, this venue has a pirate theme with a dash of industrial chic: the bar is made out of old wooden crates, with lobster traps accessorizing the walls and sailboat hardware hanging from the ceiling. Soak up the river view and enjoy bistro-style food and inventive, well-made cocktails like the Pina Colasi (Appleton Jamaican rum, fresh pineapple, orange and black pepper syrup, citrus and fresh young coconut foam).

B/F, River City Shopping Complex, 23 Yotha Rd., 02639-6305. Open daily 11am-midnight

SHEEPSHANK

Grease This swanky all-in-one nightspot houses a bar, club, lounge and restaurant, and plays everything from electro to drum n’ bass to Thai pop across four different floors. Try the signature cocktail, Gold Member (JW Gold Reserve, peach schnapps, lemon tea syrup, lemon juice, ginger ale, and absinthe), or the B&B (pamparo rum, butter scotch liqueur, malibu, pineapple juice, lemon, vanilla syrup, biscuit and butter). Opposite Villa Supermarket, 46/12-13 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-6120-1. Open daily 10am-midnight

Levels A huge LED chandelier hangs above a circular bar and a bunch of monochrome sofas surrounding a sizeable dance floor. Levels aims for a rather swanky audio-visual clubbing experience with international DJs regularly dropping by. The drinks list is quite standard but slightly cheaper than what’s offered by its nearby competitors. There’s also a garden-like terrace bar offering a rather more relaxed way to spend your night. 6/F, Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-3083246. Open daily 9pm-3am. BTS Nana

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GUIDE

ART+ ATTRACTIONS CROSS OVER: THE UNVEILED COLLECTION HIGHLIGHT

This exhibition showcases major artworks from private collections that are either rarely or never seen by the public. Exhibits range from highly-valued collectors’ pieces from Thailand’s biggest names in the art world to the work of barely known artists. The exhibition also includes interviews with collectors and the works’ owners. Through Jun 14. Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630. Open TueSun 10am-9pm. BTS National Stadium

Hot Spots TOP EXHIBITIONS THIS MONTH

LIFE IN PLASTIK/POPLITICALLY CORRECT

This duo exhibition showcases the artwork of Middle Eastern artists Eli Rezkallah and Saint Hoax, who both make use of pop-cultural references. Rezkallah’s Life in Plastik exhibition features interactive large-scale photographs and art installationstaken from his magazine, Plastik. Poplitically Correct is filled with Saint Hoax’s satirical recreations of images of political figures, from Putin to Kim Jong Un. Through Jun 12. Adler Subhashok Gallery. 160/3 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-0299. Open Tue-Fri 10am6pm, Sat-Sun 11am-6:30pm. BTS Phrom Phong

Y SPOTLIGHT

THE 4TH WHITE ELEPHANT ART AWARD: OUR BELOVED PRINCESS

A competitive exhibition showing realistic and figurative art submissions for the prestigious art competition by Thai Beverage Company, with B1-million going to the winning artist. This year's theme also celebrates HRH Princess Maha Chakri's 60th birthday. Through Jul 12. Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630. Open TueSun 10am-9pm. BTS National Stadium

ELEPHANTS AND HORSES

This exhibition showcases cult Thai artist Somboon Hormtientong’s new series of paintings featuring minimalist elephant figurines, inspired by his solo motorbike trips through Northern Thailand. Known as one of the country’s abstract pioneers, Somboon’s work combines Western-style free-form brush strokes with unique Asian calligraphy touches. The gallery is located inside luxury shopping mall Gaysorn Plaza.

POPLITICALLY CORRECT

Through Jul 26. G1 Contemporary Gallery, G/F Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-1149. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit

Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA)

This second solo exhibition by Jiratchaya Pripwai features abstract line drawings on canvas. Each piece showcases the artist’s unique drawing technique, using continuous lines that bind together to create an abstract piece of work. Jiratchaya is a young female Thai artist who was recently selected for the Taittinger Champagne family’s Thaillywood artists’ residency program.

This 18,000-sq-meter, five-story building in the North of Bangkok is Thailand’s biggest private museum and first significant permanent modern art collection open to the public. The works are nearly all post 1970s, and mostly post 1990s even, with plenty of realism and surrealism depicting rural life, religious Buddhist scenes or mythological motifs from the Ramayana. The highlight is the fourth floor's four rooms dedicated to the late Thawan Duchanee, Thailand’s most renowned contemporary painter.

Through Jun 13. Numthong Art Gallery, 72/3 Soi Ari 5, 02-617-2794. Open Mon-Sat 11am-6pm. BTS Ari

Room 499, Bejajinda Building, Viphavadee-Rangsit Rd., 02-953-1005-7. Open Tue-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat-Sun 11am6pm. www.mocabangkok.com

CONVERSATION OF BREATH

ELEPHANT AND HORSES

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BANGKOK

SHOPPING NEW

ANOTHER STORY

This concept store gathers designer product from all over the world with a heavy focus on stationery and home decor. Along with international tech, fashion and design brands, there are also plenty of Thai names, including stationery from local favorites Gray Ray, Labrador and Midori (all found in The Script zone). Home decor picks include Plural Design, PDM Brand, Karv Design and Alltag. The huge one-stop space also comprises a gallery, cafe and flower shop. 4/F, The Emquartier, Helix Building, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6138/9. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

Hot Spots MARKETS

CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET

GREEN VINTAGE NIGHT MARKET

Chatuchak weekend market can be a daunting shopping experience. The sprawling web of 15,000 stalls is one of the world’s largest markets, spread over a 70-rai plot of land. You’ll find everything from food, furniture, books, plants, clothes and antiques to puppies and exotic pets. Section 3, just outside the Kamphaeng Phet MRT station, is the most design-forward part of the market, home to both established and up-and-coming Thai artists.

Just a stone’s throw from Chatuchak Weekend Market, this impressively funky space blends a low-key selection of fashionable clothing stalls and rows of industrial-slash-retro drinking parlors. Expect a down-to-earth crowd rummaging through keepsakes such as fashion items, antiques and home decor. For ‘80s and ‘90s kids, there are lots of old-school toys like Tamagotchi and Nintendo devices.

Next to Chatuchak Park, Kamphaeng Phet Rd. Open Sat-Sun 9am-6pm. MRT Kamphaeng Phet

3 Kamphaeng Phet Rd., 092-461-5951. Open ThuSun 5pm-midnight

CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET

TALAD ROD FAI

This vintage market is home to small stalls selling all sorts of retro bric-abrac, from antique toys and vinyl to secondhand clothes and cameras. There are also plenty of vintage-inspired bars and cafes. To reach it, take the BTS to Udomsuk and then take a taxi. Don’t be put off if all you see on arrival is plastic junk—the best finds are at the back of the mareket. Sri Nakarin Soi 51, 081-827-5885. Open Fri-Sun 6pm-midnight

Y SPOTLIGHT

PAK KLONG TALAD

At Bangkok’s largest flower market, flowers from around Thailand (and the world) arrive before being distributed to hotels, restaurants and small retailers. you’ll find everything from local jasmine to imported red roses. The market is open 24 hours with different atmospheres during day and night. The liveliest period is perhaps from midnight-4am, when the day’s batch of fresh flowers starts to arrive, and the authentic trading action is in place. From Memorial Bridge to Khlong Lord, Chak Phet Rd. Open 24 hours

WANG LANG MARKET

OTOP THE GALLERY If you’re looking to buy Thai handicrafts to take home, check out the OTOP (One Tambon One Product) stores, which promote local products made in Thailand’s different districts. The most appealing and most conveniently located is perhaps OTOP The Gallery (02-650-8007), situated right next to BTS Phloen Chit, which offers a wide range of products from all over Thailand such as Thai silks, home decorative items, clothes, shoes, handbags and dried foods to browse, all in air-conditioned comfort.

This daily market runs along the river on the lesser-visited Thonburi side, next to Siriraj Hospital, and is filled with Bangkokians of all ages. Stalls sell everything from food to toys, but the majority of the buzz centers on secondhand clothes for men and women—all at incredibly low prices. Most visitors reach the market by boat from Sathron Pier or Prachan Pier. Siriraj Pier, Wang Lang Rd. Open daily 10am-6pm PAK KLONG TALAD

Under the expressway, near BTS Phloen Chit, Ploenchit Rd., 02-141-6050. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit

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HEALTH + WELLNESS SPA AT FACE Tucked away within a beautiful compound of wooden Thai houses (check out the bar and restaurant, too), this spa takes you on a trip back in time thanks to its traditional setting and a series of massages and therapies that utilize old-school principles. One of the most popular is the Wat Pho Healer, named after the famous Thai massage school (see page 20). It starts with your choice of body scrubs using Thai herbs, and is then followed up with a choice between an Ayurvedic massage, or an herbal compress and oil massage. The program ends with a more focused massage for your head, feet, back and shoulder. 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38. Open daily 10:30am-8pm. BTS Thong Lo

Hot Spots EXTREME SPORTS

FLOW HOUSE

The big attraction at this urban water park is its FlowRider, a wave machine that lets you try your hand at standup surfing and bodyboarding. Entry is completely free, while use of the wave machine is charged by the hour including equipment and instruction. A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-108-5210. Open daily 10am-midnight. BTS Phrom Phong

THE FIGHT LAB

With 310 square meters of space looking out onto Benjasiri Park, this martials arts gym isn’t your dingy underground fight club. It’s clean, its vast and it manages to feel welcoming to newbies, while having plenty of competitive cred for the aspiring champs out there. They offer training in Muay Thai, boxing, mixed martial arts (MMA), and Brazilian jiu-jitsu (submission grappling).

36/2 Sukhumvit Soi 69, 094-479-6988. Open daily 7am-9pm. BTS Phra Khanong

THAI WAKE PARK

This state-of-the-art wakeboarding and water-skating park is equipped with fivetower cables, three-tower cables, a pool-gap and beginner cables. Be sure to make reservations before you go, as the park attracts a big crowd, especially during the weekends.

18/4 Soi Sudsawas, 0-904-7722. Open Mon-Thu 9am-10:30pm, Fri-Sat 9-12am, Sun 9am-10:30pm

TRAINING GROUND

Located in a 1,200-sq-meter warehouse, this training facility is the biggest CrossFit gym in Asia, and home to the East West CrossFit affliate. The gym boasts strong coaching staff and world-class equipment that caters to members and visitors of all levels: Olympic-lifting platforms, pull-up bars, bumper plates and Concept-2 rowers.

ROCK DOMAIN

Arriving in Bangkok just last year, this climbing facility allows you to get some practice in before hitting the real heights in Southern Thailand. Spread over 1,100 meters, it offers different climbing walls that accommodate all levels, with trainers on duty at all times. Routes are also reset every week to ensure personal improvement. Yoga and fitness rooms are available, too, along with a cafe and climbing store if you need to stock up on equipment. 1780 Bangna-trad Rd., 02-399-4648. Open MonFri 11am-10pm, Sat 10am-10pm, Sun 10am-9pm

Y SPOTLIGHT

36/2 Sukhumvit Soi 69, 094-479-6988. Open daily 7am-9pm. BTS Phra Khanong

Dermaster

Housed in a 2,000-sq-meter compound and operated by a board of certified plastic surgeons. The vast compound houses four separate beauty centers for cosmetic surgery and wellness treatments. Facial treatments include Derma Frax laser therapy, while the nonsurgical “Self Re-boost” treatment promises to rejuveinate your skin. For a quick revitalizing treatment, try the 60-minute Aura Bright treatment, a non-invasive facial restoration to add life to dull skin. 342 Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai). 02-714-4471. Open daily 9am-8pm. BTS Ekkamai

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ATTRACTIONS

SPICEROADS CYCLE TOURS Whether it’s a half-day trip through Bangkok’s little known neighboring jungle, Bangkrachao, or an 11-day cycling tour from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, Spiceroads Cycle Tours boasts more than 120 different itineraries for you to pick from. Planned by experienced tour-leading cyclists, each route immerses its guests in the sides of Thai culture many tourists don’t get to see, as well as taking them through breathtaking scenery. The itineraries are suitable for cyclists of all levels, and include food and accommodation. 45 Soi Pridi Banomyong, Sukhumvit Soi 71. 02-3817490. www.spiceroads.com

Hot Spots

MUST-VISIT ATTRACTIONS

EMBASSY CINEPLEX

Equipped with state-of-the-art screens and sound systems, jumbo-sized seats and private mini fridges, this cinema offers one of the most VIP movie-watching experiences in the world. The cinema contains a total of five theaters with seating options ranging from cocoon-style first-class plane seats to daybeds and giant sofas. Be sure to check the official website for tickets and showtimes. 6/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5999. Open daily 10am-2am. BTS Phloen Chit. www.embassycineplex.com

This shopping center on the banks of the Chao Phraya River is themed according to the city’s architecture of old. Divided into several sections, ranging from the panoramic waterfront to a 100-yearold refurbished sawmill, it includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashions and intriguing souvenirs, plus offers a variety of eateries, beer gardens and wine bars. The gigantic venue is also home to a ferris wheel and stage shows like Muay Thai Live: The Legend Lives.

SIAM OCEAN WORLD

Tucked in the basement of Siam Paragon, Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium is home to over 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. The aquarium also offers family-friendly interactive activities such as diving with the sharks, 5D cinema experiences, creature feeding, back-of-house visits and even real ocean walks in wetsuits. Be sure to check activity times prior to your visit. We also recommend making advanced reservations, as there are limited spots for each activity per day. B1-B2/F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-6782000. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.sealifebangkok. com. BTS Siam

Y SPOTLIGHT

2149 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488. Open daily 4pmmidnight. Free ferry from BTS Saphan Taksin. www.thaiasiatique.com

4 SIAM OCEAN WORLD

ASIATIQUE

MADAME TUSSAUDS

Located inside the Siam Discovery shopping mall, Madame Tussauds is the perfect place to squeeze in a little family fun after a day of retail. The world-famous chain of wax museums boasts exhibits of celebrities and cultural icons, ranging from Albert Einstein to Angelina Jolie. The Bangkok branch also features local and regional public figures such as forensic pathologist Dr. Pornthip Rojanasunan, actor Tony Jaa and TV personality Anne Thongprasom.

6/F, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-0060. Open daily 10am-9pm. BTS National Stadium. www.madametussauds.com

RAJADAMNERN BOXING STADIUM

Bangkok’s championship Muay Thai stadium, completed in 1945, showcases live fights by the most prominent fighters in the country. Fights take place every Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday from 6:3011pm, with approximately nine bouts each day. Be sure to get there early, as the good tickets run out fast.

1 Rajadamnern Avenue, Pom Prap Sattru Pai, 02-2814205. Open Sun-Mon 6:30-11pm; Wed-Thurs 3-5pm, 6:30-11pm. www.facebook.com/rajadamnern

Baan Silapin Tucked behind a series of small streets, this 200-year-old canal-side wooden house offers one of the most authentic experiences of traditional Thai culture. The house formerly belonged to a merchant family, but is now home to a fellowship of artists who’ve transformed it into a public artist’s residence. Whether strolling around the ancient homes, sampling traditional drinks and desserts, shopping for art or just relaxing by the canal, you will feel a million miles from the hustle and bustle of Bangkok. Get there by 2pm to catch the daily puppet show (except Wednesday). 315 Wat Thongsala Ngam, Soi Petchakasm 28, 02-868-5279. Open Mon-Tue 10am-6pm, Wed-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat-Sun 9am-7pm

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

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NAVIGATE

Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130. The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 JUNE 2015 I W HERE THA ILA N D 33

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

1 Getting pampered at Spa at Face, which sits in a complex of traditional wooden Thai houses. See page 30.

6 Sipping a unique handcrafted !2 Sitting ringside and blending !7 Basking in the aromas of Harnn, cocktail at J. Boroski Mixology, a secret mixology lounge that offers no menu and hard-to-find ingredients. See page 26.

2 Grabbing a beer and shopping for vintage bargains at the Rod Fai Night Market. See page 29.

7 Shopping for antiques, Oriental artwork and jewelry at O.P. Place and Garden. See page 21.

3 Checking out cutting-edge Thai home decor products at Room Concept Store, a multi-label lifestyle shop inside the luxurious Central Embassy. See page 7.

8 Watching the nightly cabaret show before dancing the night away in Silom Soi 2. See page 11.

9 Spending an evening at Asi4 Savoring the authentic royal Thai atique, the giant riverside developcuisine at the Blue Elephant, a finedining institution in a beautifully restored mansion. See page 25.

ment that’s home to shops, restaurants, bars and cultural performances. See page 31.

5 Exploring the beautiful grounds !0 Trying on locally-designed, conof the Grand Palace, a magnificent ancient landmark housing the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred Buddha image. See page 20.

temporary fashion at Siam Center. See page 6.

with the locals’ enthusiastic energy while watching a fight at Rajadamnoen Stadium, the official home of championship Muay Thai bouts. See page 31.

!3 Admiring Saint Hoax’s satirical digital recreations at the latest exhibition at the Adler Subhashok Gallery. See page 28. !4 Dining on the inventive, fivecourse tasting menu at Le Du, one of our favorite kitchens in town. See page 11. !5 Enjoying the delicious duck confit waffles at Opposite Mess Hall, before grabbing drinks with the city’s coolest hipsters at WTF and Studio Lam. See page 11.

Thailand’s leading brand for essential oils. See page 8.

!8 Taking in the sweeping views of the city with a colorful cocktail in hand at Octave, a rooftop bar in the trendy Thonglor area. See page 10. !9 Browsing for great designer bargains at the annual Amazing Thailand Grand Sale. See page 8. @0 Cooking classic, fuss-free Thai staples with a group of friends under the guidance of an experienced chef at the Oriental Cooking School. See page 25.

@1 Basking by the river with a cold beer and enjoying the slow life at Baan Silapin, a century-old wooden house. See page 31.

!6 Cycling around Bang Krachao, !1 Soaking up the riverside view also known as the Bangkok Jungle, while sipping a strong cocktail at Viva & Aviv, a pirate-themed bar on Charoenkrung Road. See page 21.

a huge area of undeveloped forest on the fringe of Central Bangkok. See page 31.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

34 W H E R E T H AILAND I J UNE 2 0 1 5

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Where to find Hotels in Bangkok The AETAS Bangkok All Seasons Bangkok Siam Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11 Amari Watergate Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa Arnoma Baan Noppawong Bally’s Studio Suites Banyan Tree Bangkok Best Western Sukhumvit Cabochon Hotel & Residence Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Centara Grand at Central World Centara Hotels & Resorts Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok Conrad Bangkok Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Dusit Thani Bangkok Emporium Suites Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Four Points by Sheraton Four Seasons Bangkok GLOW Pratunam Grand Hyatt Erawan Grand Mercure Park Avenue Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Holiday Inn Silom Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 Hotel Muse Imperial Queens Park InterContinental Bangkok JW Marriott Bangkok The Landmark Bangkok Le Fenix Sukhumvit LIT Bangkok Luxx Majestic Grande Mandarin Oriental Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit 57 Mercure & Ibis Bangkok Siam

WHERE DISTRIBUTION LIST_June_2015.indd 35

The Metropolitan Bangkok Millennium Hilton Miracle Grand Convention Montien Riverside Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit Sukhumvit Novotel Bangkok Siam Square Novotel Bangkok Impact Oaks Bangkok Sathorn The Okura Prestige Bangkok Park Plaza Sukhumvit Pathumwan Princess The Peninsula Bangkok Phachara Suites Plaza Athénée Bangkok Pullman Bangkok King Power Radisson Blu Plaza Radisson Suites Bangkok Ramada Encore Bangkok Ramada Plaza Menam Riverside Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Riva Surya Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers Siam Kempinski Shangri-La Bangkok Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit The Berkeley Hotel The Continent Hotel Bangkok The Davis Bangkok The Eugenia Hotel & Spa The Siam Siam @ Siam Design Hotel & Spa Sivatel Bangkok Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit Sofitel So Bangkok The St. Regis Bangkok The Sukhothai Bangkok Swissotel Le Concorde Swissotel Nai Lert Park VIE Hotel Bangkok ViVa Garden

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Suvarnabhumi Airport (arrivals)

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Natural Ville Executive Residences, Bangkok Oakwood Residence Sukhumvit 24 Oriental Residence Bangkok Somerset Lakeview Sukkhumvit 16 The River Condominium

W Hotel Bangkok The Westin Grande Sukhumvit

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