Where® Thailand August 2015

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AUGUST 2015 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

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Bangkok by night Northern culture in Chiang Rai

ISLAND STYLE

Phuket and Samui’s best bars and restaurants YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO BANGKOK’S HOT SPOTS COVER_Aug_2015.indd 1

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CONTENTS where

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l THAILAND l AUGUST 2015

The Guide BANGKOK 23 DINING Cuisines from across Asia in fine-dining settings and Bangkok's best European restaurants.

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26 NIGHTLIFE From strip shows to party spots, the best gay nightlife across the city.

BEACH BOUND

28 ARTS+ATTRACTIONS

The hottest bars and restaurants on Samui and Phuket

The hottest exhibitions in Bangkok's galleries this month.

29 SHOPS+SERVICES

NIGHTLIFE

Discover Bangkok's best designer womenswear labels, and shop for unique Thai-made gifts.

10 PARTY CROWDS Whether you're after sophisticated cocktails or looking to hang out with local hipsters, Bangkok has a bar for you.

30 HEALTH+WELLNESS

AROUND THAILAND

Check out these tried-and-tested Bangkok hair colorists for a cut you can rely on.

Thailand's old Lanna capital, Chiang Rai, is home to some of the country's most beautiful historic temples.

31 ATTRACTIONS

14 NORTHERN SOUL

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Looking for some family entertainment? Try one of Bangkok's new escape game businesses.

32 NAVIGATE

EXPLORING

Essential tips on getting around.

18 OLD TOWN Bangkok's finest religious and royal landmarks sit alongside laid-back bars and shop-house restaurants.

ALSO INSIDE

20 PHLOEN CHIT

20 General Manager Andrew Hiransomboon

A guide to Bangkok's slickest neighborhood, home to luxury boutiques, local designer brands, fine-dining restaurants and some serious cocktail bars.

Staff Writer Pinnyada Tanitnon

Managing Editor/Product Director Grégoire Glachant

Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Lily Kittisrikangwan, Natcha Saguankiattichai

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

Regional Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Senior Designer Panita Thiraphapong

Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant

HOT DATES

34 21 THINGS WE LOVE

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.

Com

MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

On the cover W Retreat Koh Samui

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

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MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

@where_thailand

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HOT DATES

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AUG 29, 8PM

ACTIVE IMAGINATION

Imagine Dragons, the Grammy Award-winning alternative rock band from Las Vegas, make a stop in Bangkok this month as part of their Smoke + Mirrors World Tour. Known for their chart-topping hits like “Radioactive” and “Demons,” the band has played at over 50 music festivals around the world, making this one of the hottest concerts of the year, brought to you by Live Nation BEC-TERO. Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani., Popular Rd. Tickets are B1,500-4,000, available on www.thaiticketmajor.com

AUG 11, 8PM

AUG 30, 9AM-6PM

AUG 11, 5PM

AUG 5-23, 7:30PM

Ballet Masterpieces with Young Thai Master features beautiful pas de deuxs

by Ommi Nutnaree Pipit-Suksun, the only Thai principal ballerina of the San Francisco Ballet Company, who will be joined by Rudy Candia from the Carolina Ballet in an evening of Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake, Delibes’ Silvia, Massenet’s Meditation and Bizet’s Carmen. Music will be performed by the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra, conducted by veteran conductor Martin Andre.

John Belfort, whose memoirs The Wolf of Wall Street were turned into Martin Scorsese’s blockbuster movie of the same name, will be giving the Bangkok audience a special nine-hour seminar on his record-breaking sales techniques and “Straight Line System” advice that have helped put him on the finance map.

The three-piece, big-beat music pioneers led by Liam Howlett, best known for rave-ups like “Firestarter” and “Smack My Bitch Up,” will be making their Thailand debut with OD – The Prodigy & More Live. They’ll be supported by hip local electro bands and DJs across two stages like Barbies, Gene Kasidit, Kidnappers, The Triple S and Stylish Nonsense.

Kicking off this year’s Performing Art Festival #4 is B-Floor Theatre’s Secret Keeper, an experiential stage act by award-winning artist Dujdao Vadhanapakorn. She will be joined by three of Thailand’s leading contemporary dancers, Vidura Amranand, Navinda Pachimsawat Vadtanakovint and Amornsri Pattanasitdanggul, to “welcome the audience to a safe space devoid of societal judgement.”

For more details, see www.bacc.or.th.

LET’S DANCE

Main Auditorium, Thailand Cultural Centre, Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02-2623456. Tickets are B500-2,500, available on www.thaiticketmajor.com

LONE WOLF

Impact Exhibition Hall 4, Muang Thong Thani, Popular Rd. Tickets are B4,000-19,000, available on www. thaiticketmajor.com

FIRE STARTERS

BITEC Bang Na, 88 Bang Na-Trat Rd. Tickets are B2,500-3,500, available on www.thaiticketmajor.com. BTS Bang Na

THEATRICAL TREATS

BACC, 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630.

Tickets are B600, available at 089167-4039 and bfloortheare@gmail. com. BTS National Stadium

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TRAVEL

BEACH BOUND

The hottest restaurants, bars and clubs on Thailand’s two most popular islands. By Pinnyada Tanitnon

SUN MOON STAR

W RETREAT SAMUI

PHUKET Thanks to tropical backdrops, powdery sands and beautiful oceans, the island is still Thailand’s number-one beach destination. But along with the picture-postcard beach setting, you’ll also find historic Sino-Portuguese roots reflected in architecture and cuisine, alongside a booming nightlife scene in Phuket Town itself.

CHIC CULTURAL COMFORTS Located in the stunning Sri Panwa resort, the vibrant but homey Baba Soul Food (88 Moo 8, Sakdidej Rd.) specializies in home-style Thai comfort dishes such as khao tang poong pirod and lhon goong (crispy rice crackers served with shrimp green curry and shrimp coconut dip). The recipes come from the resort owner’s family and are prepared using fresh, local ingredients. As good as the food is the panoramic view of the blissful, deep-blue Anadaman Sea. Close by is Nahmyaa (255 Moo 7, Pakhlok), located at the Point Yamu by Como resort. At this bubbly, goldfish-themed restaurant facing the water, expect dishes inspired by the depths of Southern Thai cuisine and street food, such as coconut smoked duck, stir-fried spinach in coconut milk and dark Southern curry with black kingfish. For a cultural dining experience downtown, visit the world-famous Blue Elephant (96 Krabi

Rd., Phuket). Housed in a renovated Sino-Portuguese mansion, it serves some of the best Royal Thai cuisine on the island in undoubtedly the grandest setting.

SEASIDE LOUNGING Forget lying by the beach with nothing to do.

The island is filled to the brim with beach clubs, built for vacationers to comfortably relax and unwind with a drink in hand to cool tunes. If you’re on Kata Beach, stop by Re Ka Ta (Boathouse by Monara, Kata Beach), which sports a modern-tropical atmosphere and features a swimming pool, lounge, beachfront cocktail bar, holistic spa, restaurant and boutique.

For a laid-back and luxe poolside vibe, Nikki Beach (62/11 Moo 6, Cherngtalay) is one of the latest beach clubs to arrive on the island, carrying the same sandal-chic atmosphere as its Samui sister (see p.7)—crisp sunbeds, draping white fabrics, upscale dining and

BABA NEST

entertainment themed around fashion, music, film and art. On Bangtao Beach, Xana Beach Club (Angsana Laguna Phuket, Moo 10 Srisoonthorn Rd., Cherngtalay) features a 35-meter swim-up bar, spacious sofas, daybeds and cabanas.

AFTER DARK Party to a picturesque sunset scene at Sri Panwa resort’s Baba Nest (88 Sakdidej Rd.).

Set on a 4,000-sq-meter deck, the venue sits on top of the entire resort and is hugged by a 360-degree infinity pool so that nothing blocks the panoramic view of Phang Nga Bay. White Box (2475/7 Prabarame Rd.) in Patong is a boxy, all-white modern architectural offering perched above the sand. Here, you can enjoy sweeping rooftop views, a light sea breeze and stiff cocktails. Visit on the weekends and you’ll be treated to a bonus of live music and special DJs. For a more down-to-earth experience, head to Phuket Town where a new branch of Bangkok’s famous jazz bar Saxophone Pub & Restaurant (Seahorses Circle, Chana Charoen Rd., 092-636-4519, 081-911-9211, www.saxophonephuket.com) has just opened.

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SAMUI The wet season may have started, but the islands in the Gulf of Thailand like Koh Samui are at their peak, with minimal rainfall and longer days. Known for sleek beach clubs, high-end resorts and visiting international DJs, the island has a sophisticated party scene that gets better every year. Here are some of the hottest happenings and destinations not to miss out on during your trip down south.

LUXE DINNERS AND DRINKS EVENTFUL NIGHTS OUT

DRINK GALLERY

CHA CHA MOON

For some inventive Japanese cuisine in a chic spot, visit Namu (4 Bontji Moo 4, Bophut), the flagship restaurant at W Retreat Koh Samui. Here you’ll find zesty, creative and artistically crafted dishes such as Hamachi sashimi with leek and Mexican chili mint dressing and Maine lobster, stir-fried udon noodles and chili. While you’re there, stop by the hotel’s Woobar, located on arguably the most beautiful spot on the island, to lounge around for some after-dinner drinks with spectacular ocean views. For something more classic, take a seat at the Four Seasons’ hillside Koh Bar (219 Moo 5, Angthong), a restaurant specializing in locallysourced Southern Thai flavors and wine by the glass. Here, you’ll be able to dine with a view of the lush palm-covered landscape leading down to the sea while lounging on one of the restaurant’s roomy couches. Silavadee Resort’s Sun Moon Star (208/66 Moo 4, Maret) sits in an equally dramatic setting with three different themes: Sun offers panoramic deck-side views; Moon is an all-day international dining restaurant; while Star, a romantic rooftop bar, has sunken tables in a swimming pool.

Custom Clothes Tailoring Repairing & Altering Service Men’s and Woman’s Apparel Available

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A late, music-fueled night on Koh Samui usually means heading to Chaweng Beach, the island’s party hub. If you’re not staying in the area, we recommend getting there early to relax and enjoy a couple of drinks with the sunset. Come nightfall, you might be thankful for that extra buzz. Warm up at Drink Gallery (14/1 Moo 2, Chaweng), a happening bar located in The Library, the hip boutique hotel right by the beach. The cute bar is decked out in pop art motifs, chandeliers and raw-wood furniture, and specializes in wine, cocktails and chill tunes. Another pregame venue worth checking out is Cha Cha Moon (Soi Green Mango, Chaweng Beach), a sexy beach club offering daybeds, a rusticmeets-tropical vibe and international DJs spinning EDM. Later, head over to Ark Bar (159/89 Chaweng Beach), where the loud electronic music and full moon-inspired atmosphere mean the party gets going very soon after doors open. Also stop by Solo Bar, where you’ll find equally loud music and an even wilder crowd before ending the night at Green Mango (Soi Green Mango, Chaweng Beach), arguably the most well-known club on the island, which spins pop and EDM tunes from a tree-house-like structure.

BENJAMAS TAILOR SHOP No.216A Times Square Bldg., 2nd Fl. Line ID : benjamastailor benchamart2519@gmail.com facebook : Joem Ben 080-618-7311 (Pook)

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BOOZY SUNDAYS BRUNCHES Located on the secluded Lipa Noi beach, Nikki Beach (96/3 Moo 2, Lipa Noi) is the place to visit for a relaxing but boozy Sunday brunch. The Samui branch of the international party brand serves its Amazing Sunday Brunch right by the pool. Laze around on the plush white sunbeds with a cocktail in hand, and choose between the 40 dining options at the all-you-can-eat buffet. For a Sunday buzz closer to the Chaweng action, visit Beach Republic (176/34 Moo 4, Maret) for their weekly Ultimate Sunday Brunch, which features a myriad of international fare with a spectacular view of the beach. Late night partygoers stationed on Chaweng Beach should check out the lunch buffet at Centara Grand Chaweng (38/2 Moo 3, Bophut), featuring a sensational grill station and raw bar.

BEACH REPUBLIC

NIKKI BEACH

BEACH REPUBLIC

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FEATURE

PARTY CROWDS

Whatever you’re looking for, Bangkok’s thriving nightlife scene has a bar that’s right for you. By Pinnyada Tanitnon and Vasachol Quadri

MAGGIE CHOO’S

A.R. SUTTON ENGINEERS SIAM This colonial-inspired cocktail lounge comes from the same designer as the nearby Hot Rod (G/F, Park Lane Ekamai). Resembling a forgotten British gentlemen’s club, it does a good job deceiving you into thinking it’s always been in its tucked away location, even if it is in a community mall. The homemade cinnamon-infused Sailor Jerry Spice Rum packs quite the punch. Live classical music on Wed, Fri, Sat and Sun from 9pm.

G/F, Park Lane Ekamai, Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai).

Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Ekkamai BAMBOO BAR

LUXE Whether it’s a moody lounge bar, a colonialstyle gentlemen’s club or a Shanghai opium den-inspired speakeasy, you can’t go wrong with one of these modish drinking spots for a sophisticated night out.

BAMBOO BAR Opened back in 1953, but given a complete re-style in late 2014, this hotel bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. Singers take the mic at 9pm daily, accompanied by music from a baby grand and surrounded by framed portraits of jazz legends who’ve passed through over the years. What’s more, the bar also does some of the best cocktails in town, whether it’s signature classics like the Mekhong rum-laced Thaijito or elaborate or molecular concoctions like the Raspberry Nitrogen Sorbet.

Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoenkrung Soi 40 (Oriental Ave.), 02-659-9000. Open Sun-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am

MAGGIE CHOO’S

MAGGIE CHOO’S This elegant bar evokes colonial outposts, the Pax Britannica of Queen Victoria, the decadence of opium or gambling dens, steamy exoticism (and steaming noodles on your way in), James Bond movies and gentlemen’s clubs. You can usually expect some kind of entertainment: a band, a DJ accompanied by a percussionist and beautiful ladies in cheongsam dresses lazing about. The cocktail menu is sweet, fruity and aromatic.

A.R. SUTTON ENGINEERS

Underground/F, Hotel Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 091-771-2144. Open Sun-Thu 7:30pm2am, Fri-Sat 7:30pm-3am. BTS Surasak BAMBOO BAR

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THAI STYLE Thanks to the vast array of spices and flavors used to make Thai food, chefs and mixologists across the city have mastered the art of crafting inventive cocktails with a uniquely Thai touch. Here are a few places that do it best.

STUDIO LAM This super-hip spot pairs global beats with quality drinks. Linked to loca DJ Maft Sai’s Zudrangma Records label, the space may look fairly basic, bearing the remnants of an old Japanese restaurant that used to be there, but the star of the show is a specially designed custom tube sound system which pumps out everything from molam (Thai country music) to acid jazz.

The bar also boasts the most exciting list of ya-dong (traditional herbal Thai white spirit) in the city.

Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. Open Tue-Sun 6pm1am. BTS Thonglor

TEP BAR Here, you’ll find potent cocktails mixed with Thai fruits and spices in a restored Chinatown shop-house. There’s also a good line of home-infused ya-dong, with options ranging from a sweet honeycomb variety to one with a more floral flavor.

Hungry? The bar also specializes in Thai tapas to complement your drinks. At nightfall, Thai musicians take the stage to play traditional Central-region music.

Room 69-71 Soi Nana, 098-467-2944, Open TueThu 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sun 5pm-1pm. MRT Hua Lamphong

TEP BAR

ERR At their latest project, two of the city’s most acclaimed chefs do cocktails using Thai spirits and casual drinking food. See page 22 for more details.

394/35 Maharaj Rd. Open Tue-Sun 11am-midnight ERR

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CITY VIEWS

NEW-SCHOOL MIXOLOGY

Thanks to a skyline bustling with city lights and high-rise architecture, rooftop bars are a Bangkok signature.

The city’s best mixology lounges can be found tucked inside community malls, on the terraces of five-star hotels, or carefully hidden in the trendiest areas.

PARK SOCIETY U.N.C.L.E.

Inside is for fine dining on international cuisine, while the rooftop is all about cocktails and the striking view. Expect modern takes on French recipes, such as the pan-seared trout with bouillabaisse sauce or the slowbraised lamb shank, with eggplant caviar.

29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 Sathorn Rd., 02-6240000. Open daily 5-12:30pm. MRT Lumphini

OCTAVE The trendy-but-mature vibe is accentuated by striking 45th-floor views. The first level features a long balcony filled with sculpturelike sofas, above which are a couple of private rooms and a third tier with 360-degree views. Food is Asian-themed bar snacks.

J. BOROSKI

45/F, Marriot Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-000. Open daily 5pm-1am. BTS Thong Lo

J.BOROSKI Run by Joseph Boroski, creator of cocktail lists for many five-star hotels, this bar is a hidden gem and by hidden, we really mean it. Look for the women in red dresses outside a “karaoke” lounge, turn left and head to the end of the street.

Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), between soi 7-9, 02-712-6025. BTS Thong Lo

U.N.C.L.E. A wonderfully moody lounge with some of the best—and priciest—drinks in town.

The space is all leather upholstery, circular booths and warm lighting while a single barman in a classic vest stands behind the bar.

2/F Lady Brett, 149 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-635-0406.

Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. BTS Chong Nonsi

VESPER The elegant blend of gentlemen’s club and European bistro appeals to serious cocktail drinkers. The imposing marble bar serves cocktails with focus on barrel aging and botanicals. The food is refined European comfort dishes.

10/15 Convent Rd., 02-235-2777. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, Sun-Thu 5pm-midnight, Sun-Sat 5pm-1am. BTS Sala Daeng

PARK SOCIETY

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AROUND THAILAND

NORTHERN SOUL

Chiang Mai’s quieter neighbour, Chiang Rai is brimming with natural attractions and places to get your caffeine and cultural fixes. By Pinnyada Tanitnon and Lily Kittisrikangwan MAE FAH LUANG GARDEN

BOON RAWD FARM

MELT IN YOUR MOUTH

NATURAL ATTRACTIONS

COFFEE

EAT

The Royal Villa (Doi Tung Villa, Amphe Mae Fah Luang, 053-767-015) in Doi Tung boasts an elegant hilltop residence facing the Mae Fah Luang Gardens, a spectacular flower garden beneath the hill’s slopes. Formerly the summer residence of HRH Princess Srinagrinda, also known as the Princess Mother, the villa acted as the base of her efforts to stop opium production and educate hilltribe youth about growing other crops like coffee, macadamias and fruit, which resulted in the now nationwide Royal Projects farming initiative. Boon Rawd Farm (99 Moo 1, Mae Korn, 053-172-870), also known as Singha Park, is one of Thailand’s largest tea plantations and also features a mini zoo and cafe. The plantation itself is a well-kept flower field surrounding a beautiful lake. Tours operate daily and offer seasonal activities like strawberry picking (Dec-Feb). Adventure seekers can hit up Boomerang Park (2km west on Soi 5 from Ban Nam Lat, 085-525-5435) for activities such as natural rock climbing, zip-lining, biking, self-guided hikes, frisbee and caving.

If you happen to be there on a Sunday, visit the Thanon Khon Muan (Sankhongna Soi 2 onwards) Sunday market in between 6-9pm for some retail therapy. Here, a whole strip of Sangkhonnoi Road is closed to traffic and filled with vendors selling goods ranging from cheap trendy clothes to local snacks.

Chiang Rai’s cool climate for half the year, slow-life culture and numerous coffee plantations make for a coffee lover’s paradise. For a good view to accompany your cup of Joe, visit Chivit Thamma Da Coffee House (Baan Rong Suae Ten Soi 3, 053-166-622), a cafe boasting a glass house with comfortable sofas and a riverside garden on the banks of the Kok River.

The newer but similarly-pitched Melt in Your Mouth (Terdprakiat Soi 3, Muang, 053-711-199) boasts a colonial-style interior and live easy-listening music. Doy Din Daeng Cafe (49 Moo 6, Nanglae, 053-705-291) is tucked underneath a lush canopy of trees and serves freshly brewed coffee in house-made ceramic cups. For a completely different atmosphere, visit Yellow Car Coffee (086-118-0044), right by the iconic Clock Tower. As the name suggests, the shop is situated in a yellow vehicle that specializes in old Thai-style coffee and tea, as well as local breakfast foods such as patongko (Chinese breakfast donuts) and dim sum. For a livelier atmosphere, visit the industrial-style Hohm Homemade (368 Thairat Rd., Muang), a perfect location to relax and people watch.

Start your day at Baan Chivit Mai (Prasopsook Rd., 089-191-3034), a cozy cafe founded by Swedish missionaries to support the welfare of hilltribe children. Here you’ll find a large selection of breakfast sets and pastries. Go local and get a homestyle cooked lunch at Saluang Kham (844 Phaholyothin Rd.), a restaurant specializing in Northern staples such as sai oua (Northern-style sausage) and garlic frog legs. For a cheap but scrumptious meal, Sabun Nga Khantoke (226/50 Sandhong Rd., Muang) offers an authentic Lanna lunch buffet dinner for B250, which comes with an accompanying Thai dance show and traditional music in the background.

It’s also right by the Chiang Rai Walking Street, where a heap of food stalls and local shops line the sidewalks from around 6pm through till midnight every Saturday.

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CULTURAL SIGHTS

WAT RONG KHUN

Thailand’s largest city during the 1200s, Chiang Rai today is still home to Lanna-era temples and palaces, as well as museums showcasing precious relics once belonging to the Thai royal family and nobles. The most sacred temple is Wat Phra Kaew (19 Moo 1, Wiang, 053-711-385), where the Emerald Buddha now housed in Bangkok’s Grand Palace was originally discovered after a lightning bolt struck open a Chedi in 1434. For something more contemporary, Wat Rong Khun (Pa Or Donchai, 053-673-579), or the “White Temple,” is arguably one of the most beautiful temples of the 21st century. Built entirely by local artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, the temple is composed of impeccably detailed hand-carved structures depicting heaven, hell and nirvana. Though recent earthquake damage means you can no longer go inside, it’s still a breathtaking sight to behold. Art fanatics should also stop by Baandam Museum (414 Moo 13, Nang Lae, 053-705-834), also known as The Black House, the gallery which

formerly belonged to the late Thawan Duchanee, Thailand’s most famous contemporary artist and a native of the province. Here, you’ll find a collection of his personal sculptures created from discarded materials ranging from horns and bones to old boats and black wood.

Another attraction opened by one of Chiang Rai’s skilled local artists is Doy Din Daeng Pottery (49 Moo 6, Nanglae, 053-705-291), which showcases ceramics in natural colors and asymmetrical shapes. Or for a lesson on the region’s heritage, visit Oubkham Museum (81/1 Na Khai Rd., Rob Wiang, 053-713349), where you’ll find antiques belonging to the descendant of an ancient Lanna royal family. To tour the inner city’s cultural sights, the Chiang Rai City Council’s tourist tram leaves from The King Mengrai the Great Statue (located on the starting point of route 10) at 9am, 9:30am and 1pm daily. The tour takes two hours and stops at nine different monuments.

CHIANG RAI CITY TOURIST TRAM

BAANDAM MUSEUM

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whereExploring NATTAPHON PHANPONGSANON

AUGUST 2015 | BANGKOK

OLD TOWN The Rattanakosin area, commonly called the Old Town, is tucked inside a bend in the Chao Phraya River and encompasses some of the city’s most revered cultural landmarks. But beyond the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, there are also some excellent restaurants and beautiful riverside bars.

WAT ARUN

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 18 PHLOEN CHIT

20 OLD TOWN

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EXPLORING

PHLOEN CHIT

GAYSORN

sartorial tips from Win, his son. Know precisely what you want before you go (although this is one of the safer tailors for the uninitiated), and make sure you have enough time for several fittings.

For more high-end shopping, visit the compact but nonetheless very luxurious 4 Gaysorn (02-656-1177). As well as numerous luxury international fashion labels, you’ll find Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya and Zenithorial.

Pick up locally crafted gifts from Jim Thompson, or indulge at 4 Panpuri Organic Spa (L/F, Gaysorn, 02-6561199).

NEW

DINING This is a very international area for dining. In fact, the only cuisine that’s thin on the ground is Thai food. For respite from Central Embassy’s boutiques, pull up a blond-wood chair at 1 Siwilai Rocket Coffeebar (5/F, Central Embassy, 02-160-5836) for organic

HAIR OF THE DOG

With its surgical lighting and hospital beds doubling as bars, the latest serious beer bar in town has a slightly haunted hospital vibe. Here, they select a rotating batch of 13 beers on tap from some of the world’s most highly prized craft labels, including Amager Shadow Pictures Double IPA, Modern Times Fortunate Island Wheat, Modern Times Blazing World Amber Ale, Mikkeller Tiger Baby Fruity Pale Ale and the new-in-town Prairie Standard Saison.

9 2/F, Mahatun Plaza, 888/26 Phloen Chit Rd. Open daily 5pm-midnight CAFE TARTINE

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erhaps Bangkok’s sleekest neighborhood, Phloen Chit serves up refined restaurants, luxurious boutiques and elegant bars, all within easy BTS access (Phloen Chit Station).

GALLERIES AND ATTRACTIONS For rare and beautiful publications, 1 Hardcover: The Art Book Shop (4/F, Central Embassy, 02-160-5977) is one of the high-end Central Embassy shopping mall’s hidden gems. Expect to find rare publications like Taschen’s supersized Sebastiao Salgado: Genesis, which comes with its own Tadao Ando display stand. At the back of the store is an art exhibition space called Serindia Gallery Annex. Nearby, on a leafy sidestreet, 2 100 Tonson (100 Soi Tonson, 02-684-1527) is located in a beautiful building designed by renowned French designer Christian Liaigre, and regularly welcomes such high-profile artists as Rirkrit Tiravanija.

SHOPPING 1 Central Embassy (1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-119-7777) dedicates eight floors to retail shops from some of the

world’s most exciting fashion brands, including Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin and Jil Sander. For something more unique, check out 1 Alexander Lamont (2/F, Central Embassy, 02-160-5772), who creates

CENTRAL EMBASSY

beautiful decorative objects which draw on both European and Asian design. The luxurious materials, from bronze to stingray skin, are handcrafted by a team of skilled artisans working

VUUDH

from Bangkok to create pieces that are both unique and meaningful. In the same mall, 1 Vuudh (4/F, Central Embassy, 02-160-5826) is a Thai company specializing in high-end interior fragrances with an Eastern influence.

Its selection of products is limited— candles, diffusers and sprays—but very elegant, much like the store itself. For a genuinely good Bangkok tailoring experience, stop by 3 Pinky Tailor (Mahatun Plaza Arcade, 02-252-9680).

The patriarch, Pinky, still rules over his cramped shop packed to the rafters with bolts of cloth. But we like to get

salads, freshly baked goods and artisanal coffee. The highlight has to be its delightful breakfast menu that you can enjoy with views of the British Embassy’s gardens. For a light bite, drop by 5 Cafe Tartine (Athenee Residence, Soi Ruamrudee, 02-168-5464) for its solid lineup of French sandwiches, soups, quiches and salads. Desserts, like the tarte tatin and creme brulee, are also delicious. Prefer Italian? !0 Gianni Ristorante (34/1 Soi Tonson, 02252-1619), or “Gianni’s,” as it’s referred to by most, has consistently oustanding food, an elegant opera-house at-

GIANNI RISTORANTE

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EXPLORING

PHLOEN CHIT mosphere and polished service. The ever-changing specials frequently knock it out of the ballpark. Sticking to fine dining, 8 Yamazato (24/F, The Okura Prestige, 02-687-9000) is one of Bangkok’s most luxurious Japanese restaurants, serving grand 6-8 course kaiseki dinners. On a more casual tip, the Mexican 9 La Monita Taqueria (Mahatun Plaza, 888/25-26 Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-9581) does hands-down the best quesadilla and fish taco in town. Burritos and the steak torta are also excellent thanks to well-flavored meat, onions, cilantro and a squeeze of lime. For a truly upscale Thai dining experience, book a table at either Osha (see spotlight) or Paste (02-3924313), which specializes in heritage recipes, especially curry.

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HYDE & SEEK

NIGHTLIFE 8 Ogu Ogu (G/F, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 02-108-2255) dubs itself a sake bar and takes no little inspiration from New York. The space is all about hanging wires, lamps, wooden partitions and some patterned chairs. The food isn’t too authentic, but make it for the 5-7pm happy hour to enjoy some fun sake tasting flights. Later in the evening, head over to Soi Ruamrudee for the chic gastro bar 6 Hyde and Seek (Athenee Residence, Soi Ruamrudee, 02-168-5152-3). As well as lovinglymade traditional pub food with a highend twist, this bar does some seriously good cocktails, made by a team of respected barmen.

Osha

Set in a solemn-looking stone pavilion, this restaurant by Thai celebrity chef Thanintorn Tannawan features fancified versions of Thai classics like papaya salad, as well as more inventive creations that incorporate modern cooking techniques. Its main claim to fame is a version of krapow-nua, a Bangkok streetfood staple of stir-fried beef with holy basil, here done with wagyu beef. Be sure to try the cocktails, like Osha-Sha—their take on Brazil’s classic Caipirinha.

99 Wireless Rd., 02-256-6555. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 6pm-12am. www.oshabangkok. com. BTS Ratchadamri

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1 Central Embassy - Hardcover The Art Book Shop - Alexander Lamont - Vuudh - Siwilai Rocket Coffeebar - Siwilai 2 100 Tonson 3 Pinky Tailor 4 Gaysorn - Panpuri Organic Spa 5 Cafe Tartine 6 Hyde and Seek 7 Le Beaulieu 8 Park Ventures / Okura Hotel - Yamazato - Ogu Ogu 9 La Monita Taqueria, Hair of the Dog !0 Gianni Ristorante

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EXPLORING

OLD TOWN Y SPOTLIGHT

Tha Maharaj

RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL This is an interactive two-hour exhibition that brings to life Rattanakosin’s old communities, traditions and palaces. It’s B100 per visit for all visitors, with a new tour starting every 20 minutes. Once you reach the fourth floor of the tour, the True Coffee shop at the top has panoramic views of Wat Phu Kao Thong, also known as Golden Mount, Prakarn Fort, and the only surviving Loha Prasart (metal castle) in the world. !7 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-621-0044. Open Tue-Sun 10am-7pm

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Start your walking tour from Prachan Pier (Tha Prachan in Thai) with a visit to 1 Tha Prachan and Amulet Market (open daily 7am-5pm), where ancient Buddha images, amulets and talismans are displayed along the footpath and in small lanes. Local advice is recommended if you plan on taking home any good-luck souvenirs. Nearby, you’ll find the historic 2 National Museum (4 Na Phra Tha Rd., 02-224-1333), which houses some of the most impressive art and antiques in the country. In addition to historic pieces from the Dvaravati Srivijaya to Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods, the museum features regional art like Indian Gandhara, Chinese weapons, ancient ceramics and musical instruments. At the other end of Sanam Luang is the most-visited landmark in Thailand, 3 Grand Palace and

Wat Phra Kaew (open daily 8:30am4:30pm. Entry B350). Construction on the royal residence of the first king of the current Chakri Dynasty began in 1762, and the complex is split into three zones: the Outer Court, where you’ll find Wat Phra Kaew and the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred Buddha image; the Middle Court, which contains the Dusit Maha Prasat and Chakri Maha Prasat buildings; and the Inner Court,

GRAND PALACE AND WAT PHRA KAEW

!6 11/1 Maharaj Rd., 02-8663163-4, 090-926-5265. Open daily 10am-10pm

AFTERNOON

he Rattanakosin area, commonly called the Old Town, is tucked inside a bend in the Chao Phraya River and encompasses some of the city’s most revered cultural landmarks. But beyond the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, there are also some excellent restaurants and beautiful riverside bars.

MORNING

This themed community mall looks to recapture the charm of the Old Town’s architecture. The riverside pavilion consists of over 50 open-air restaurants and shops spread over seven buildings styled in keeping with the area’s historic roots. There’s also a riverside promenade and community garden. As well as shops dedicated to fashion and beauty, you’ll also find specialists dealing in antiques and Thai amulets.

QUEEN SIRIKIT MUSEUM OF TEXTILES

former residence of the royal consorts.

Be sure to get there early before the day is too hot. Beware, touts will tell you the palace is closed for a national holiday.

Ignore them! On the same grounds, you’ll also find the 4 Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles (Na Phra Lan Rd., Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, 02255-9430), which tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand.

Highlights include the queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading international designers.

Behind the Grand Palace, on the bank of the Chao Phraya River, is the twoyear-old 5 Nagaraphirom Park.

What was once a row of shop-houses and several other old buildings is now a breathable green space with views of the Grand Palace. Relax among trees and lotus ponds and enjoy a great view of the Temple of Dawn before you continue on your walk. Next, pay your respects to the 43-meterlong reclining Buddha at 6 Wat Pho (open daily 8am-5pm), whose threemeter-tall feet are inlaid with mother of pearl displaying 108 Buddhist

WAT PHO

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EXPLORING

OLD TOWN symbols. In a beautiful colonial-style building nearby, 7 Museum Siam (4 Sanam Chai Rd., 02-225-2777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm) is one of Bangkok’s best museums, portraying the history of Thai communities through multimedia installations and interactive exhibitions. The venue also hosts an interesting lineup of rotating exhibitions.

PHRA ATHIT HOTSPOTS Some of the Old Town’s best venues line this charming riverside road.

!3 Escapade The specialty here is Angus beef burgers that regularly rank among Bangkok’s best. Double your intake with a Quarter Cow (two beef patties, two slices of cheddar cheese with truffle sauce) and be sure to try the decadent smoothie cocktails.

SHEEPSHANK

112 Phra Athit Rd., 081-406-3773. Open Tue-Sun noon-midnight

!4 Sheepshank This restaurant is designed to resemble a sophisticated boat house where you can sit back and enjoy views of the river and Rama 8 Bridge while eating Spanish dishes like seafood paella with saffron.

47 Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-5165. www.sheepshankpublichouse.com

!5 Pipit Banglamphu

MUSEUM SIAM

Thanks to the efforts of the Banglamphu community, plans to demolish Bangkok’s first printing school, which dates back to 1924, were derailed, and the building recently reopened as the Pipit Banglamphu Museum. Registered as a place of national importance by the Fine Art Department of Thailand, the museum focuses on the culture of Bangkok’s Rattanakosin Island area, as well as the printing school’s history.

EVENING

Next to Phra Sumen Fort, Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-1850. Entry B100. Closed Mondays. www.fb.com/pipitbanglamphu ESCAPADE

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After exploring Thailand’s heritage, take a break at 8 Sala Rattanakosin (39 Soi Ta Tien, Maharaj Rd., 02-6221388) and enjoy Thai food with great views of the 9 Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun). This stylish riverside venue boasts a small number of guestrooms but half of the building is dedicated to wining and dining. There’s also a rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping cocktails. If you’re in the mood for more drinks, head to !0 The Deck (Arun Residence, 36-38 Maharaj Rd.), a charming outdoor venue just a short walk from Sala Rattanakosin. Set in a five-room boutique hotel, The Deck offers a delightful atmosphere in which to enjoy another drink or two, and also has a sophisticated Thai food menu.

Finish your Old Town tour with a night visit to !1 Pak Klong Talad (open 24 hours), Bangkok’s largest flower market. Flowers from not only Thailand but around the world arrive here each day to be distributed to hotels, restaurants

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and small retailers. You’ll find everything from local jasmine to imported red roses. Fresh batches arrive after midnight, which is when you’ll get to experience the busiest trading atmosphere. If you’ve still got some energy left, go mingle with backpackers from all over the world on the notorious !2 Khao San Road. Our top addresses there: Bombay Blues, Hippie de Bar and Fabulous Bar & Dessert Cafe.

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1 Tha Prachan and Amulet Market Museum 3 Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew 4 Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles 5 Nagaraphirom Park 6 Wat Pho 7 Museum Siam 8 Sala Rattanakosin 9 Wat Arun !0 The Deck !1 Pak Klong Talad !2 Khao San Road !3 Escapade !4 Sheepshank !5 Pipit Banglamphu !6 Tha Maharaj !7 Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall

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GETTING THERE

It’s not easy to get to the Old Town as there is no the sky train or MRT coverage, and a car journey can take up to an hour due to heavy traffic.

The most convenient route is perhaps to take the sky train to BTS Saphan Taksin and catch a boat from Sathorn Pier to Pra Athit Pier.

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ThewhereGuide AUGUST 2015 | BANGKOK

NEW

ERR

Chef-couple Duangporn Songvisava and Dylan Jones, the masterminds behind one of Bangkok’s top Thai restaurants, Bo.lan, have gone for a more casual and raw vibe in this shop-house restaurant near the river.

It focuses on small-portioned, creative Thai dishes that go well with drinks, like chicken satay with brioche, naem (Northernstyle garlic and sticky rice cured pork) and the so-called Chicken Movie; deep-fried whole-chicken skin with homemade Sriracha sauce. The bar also boasts plenty of cocktails made with Thai spirits.

394/35 Maharaj Rd. Open Tue-Sun 11am-midnight

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 23 DINING 26 NIGHTLIFE

28 ART + ATTRACTIONS 29 SHOPS + SERVICES

30 HEALTH + WELLNESS 31 ATTRACTIONS

32 NAVIGATE

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SCRUFFY APRON NEW

Named in tribute to apron-clad craftsmen the world over, this new venture from the reliable kitchen and cocktail team behind Phloen Chit’s Hyde & Seek (see Phloen Chit guide, page 20) specializes in retro Western comfort food. You’ll find everything from cold cuts, salads and soups to pasta, sandwiches and meat and seafood mains. The highlights, though, may well be the oldschool hotdog cart and the so-called “ice cream donut sandwich” (a form of dessert burger) patio out front. Don’t miss the drinks, served from a giant antique zinc bar.

6/F, Emquartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6263.

Open Mon-Thu 11am-10pm; Fri-Sun 11am-11pm.

BTS Phrom Phong

EUROPEAN FINE DINING

Hot Spots BEST OF ASIA

1

GAGGAN

After building a solid foundation in Indian and Italian cooking at hotel restaurants, Gaggan Anand did a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, the former modern-gastro capital of the world. His eponymous restaurant serving molecular Indian cooking ranked No. 1 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2015. Expect the unexpected like foams, spherification, dehydration and more alongside traditional dishes of Indian curry.

68/1 Lang Suan Rd., 02-652-1700. Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Ratchadamri

GAGGAN

3 ROBUCHON

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON The Bangkok debut from the chef with the most Michelin stars in the world.

5/F, Maha Nakhon Cube, 96 Narathiwas Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-221-0698 SAVELBERG Helmed by the former chef at the Hague, whose eponymous restaurant there earned him a Michelin star. Orientel Residence Bangkok, 110 Wireless Rd., 02-2528001 ASTON DINING ROOM & BAR One of Bangkok’s youngest and most outspoken head chefs serves progressive tasting menus around an open kitchen. 68 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 084-551-5559

LE DU

2

LE DU

SRA BUA BY KIIN KIIN

Sra Bua is the Bangkokian sister of Copenhagen’s Kiin Kiin, which, after David Thompson’s London restaurant Nahm (now in Bangkok), became the second restaurant in the world to receive a Michelin star for cooking Thai food. But this is modern gastronomy, making it very different from the traditional Thai cooking at Nahm.

A curry might come with the texture and temperature of ice cream, and bites of lobster can be locked into gelatinous pearls that melt in your mouth with a sip of tom yam broth.

Lobby/F, Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. Open daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm. BTS Siam

A Thai chef with a degree from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) powers this inventive Asian restaurant. His dishes focus heavily on local and seasonal produce, which are prepared using modern cooking techniques to produce original and delicious food that clearly evokes Thai flavors while challenging diners’ senses. The wine list is equally exciting, with bottles sourced only from organic producers or boutique importers.

399/3 Silom Soi 7, 092-919-9969. B Open Mon-Sat 6-11pm. BTS Chong Nonsi SRA BUA BY KIIN KIIN

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TASTE OF THE CITY

DINING HONG KONG Recent Openings

CASA AZUL

Bangkok’s newest Mexican opening is themed and named after Frida Kahlo’s house in Mexico City.

2/23 Phahon Yothin Soi 7 (Ari), 02-6195107. Open daily 11am-midnight

SAMBALACHA CAFE

A kitchen serving Singaporean and Malaysian favorites.

3/F, I’m Park @ Chula, Chulalongkorn Soi 22, 091-025-7269. Open Thu-Sun 11am9:30pm; Mon 11am-9:30pm

SIAM SPRING BISTRO

Rare recipes from the royal family’s kitchen.

2/F, Qiss Mall, Sukhumvit Soi 42, 087-7773555. Open Mon-Fri 11am-9:30pm; Sun 11am-9:30pm

Advertise your business with us ­ starting from B5,000

TEDDY’S BIGGER BURGERS Customized burgers c/o Hawaii.

G/F, Gateway Ekkamai, Sukhumvit Rd. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Ekkamai

Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Credit card payment accepted.

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DINING

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STREET FOOD FAVORITES Khao Soi

Tom Yum

This northern-style noodle dish consists of egg noodles and chicken curry soup topped with crunchy noodles for texture. The dish is served with condiments on the side, including pickled greens and chili paste. Not in the mood for chicken?

Some places will also let you substitute the chicken curry with beef.

Try it at: Hom Duan, 70/2 Ekkamai Soi 2

This is one of the most popular spicy soups, distinguished by its bold sour and spicy flavors. It’s made with an array of Thai herbs such as lemongrass, kaffir lime and galangal, and usually served with shrimp (although other protein options such as fish or mixed seafood are also popular).

Enjoy the soup with some rice on the side to balance out the spice.

Try it at: Niyom Pochana, 125 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor)

Pad Thai PAD THAI

This rice-noodle dish is stir fried at high heat with tofu, fish sauce, eggs, dried shrimp, garlic, palm sugar, sprouts and tamarind paste, along with either fresh chicken, shrimp or crabs, creating a blend of various flavors. Although the dish is great in itself, there are fancier options available, such as the pad Thai hor khai, where the pad Thai is wrapped in a thin egg crepe.

Try it at: Pad Thai Thip Samai, 313 Mahachai Rd.

Isaan Unlike most street food, these dishes are not of Chinese origin but rather come from the Northeast of Thailand. You’ll find heaps of street vendors specializing in this sweet, sour and spicy variety of Thai cusinie all across Bangkok.

Try the somtam (spicy papaya salad with fish sauce, palm sugar, dried shrimps, nuts, lime and chili pounded in a mortar) with kor moo

yang (grilled pork neck served with a spicy dipping sauce) and gai yang (grilled chicken). Eat with a hand-rolled ball of sticky rice.

Try it at: Sabai Jai Kai Yang, 65 Ekkamai Soi 1

Khao Man Gai Also known as Hainanese chicken rice, this dish is composed of lean chicken with flavorful, oilytextured rice cooked in chicken broth, fresh garlic, ginger roots, salt and grounded white pepper. It is accompanied by sides of sliced cucumbers, chicken broth with horseradish and an optional bite of chicken blood. The flavors are enhanced with a dipping sauce of yellow soybean, garlic and chili. Many khao man gai stores also serve khao man gai tod, where fried chicken is served in place of its lean counterpart.

Try it at: Khao Man Ghai Pratunam, 962 Petchaburi Rd.

KHAO MAN GAI

4

OSHA

Set in one of the most striking dining rooms in town—gold-leaf ceiling, Ramakien wallpaper—this restaurant features fancified versions of Thai classics like pad Thai, as well as more inventive creations that incorporate modern cooking techniques. Its main claim to fame is a version of krapao-nua, a Bangkok streetfood staple of stir-fried beef with holy basil, here done with wagyu beef. Be sure to try the cocktails, like Osha-Sha—their take on Brazil’s classic Caipirinha.

99 Wireless Rd., 02-256-6555. Open daily 11am2:30pm, 6pm-midnight

OSHA

5

ZUMA

Spot the rich and the beautiful at Zuma, whose high-end hotel surroundings, generous proportions and stunning decor should impress even the most hardened gourmand. The food is Japanese fine dining with modern flair like the signature dynamite spider maki roll or suzuki no osashimi (sliced sea bass with yuzu, truffle oil and salmon roe).

G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-2524707. Open daily 11:30-3pm, 6pm-11am. BTS Ratchadamri AUGUST 2015 I W HER E THA ILA N D 25

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NIGHTLIFE NEW

CRAFT (SILOM)

Craft offers some 20 craft beers on tap, including Rogue Dead Guy Ale, Deschutes Fresh Squeezed IPA and Two Tales Black Ale Draught. Adjoining it is whiskey and cigar bar, Whisgars, as well as a new speakeasy-style cocktail bar dubbed Belle’s Room. Access is hidden behind the wooden wall of the main room with a little walkway leading you to a sizable Victorian-inspired bar. Here, you can expect tailor-made cocktails: pick your base spirit and let the barman work his magic.

G/F, Holiday Inn Silom, 981 Silom Rd. Open daily noon-midnight. BTS Surasak

Hot Spots GAY BARS

3

GAY NIGHT AT MAGGIE CHOOS

Evoking colonial outposts, the Pax Britannica of Queen Victoria, the decadence of opium dens and steamy exoticism, this bewitching bar hosts its weekly gay night every Sunday when topless hunks with rock-hard six packs replace the beautiful ladies in cheongsam dresses on the swings. Apart from sipping cocktails and mingling with the crowd, expect to laugh all night long when local drag sensation Pangina Heals takes the stage.

DJ STATION

1

Novotel Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 091-772-2144

DJ STATION

The grand dame of gay clubbing just never seems to get old. Packed to the point of making dancing near impossible on weekends, DJ Station has come to define Thailand’s gay nightlife for many visitors. The place is three stories tall. Most of the dancing takes place on the ground, with some guys going shirtless on stage. On the second floor, things are noticeably more cruise-y—and boozy. As for the decor, the dim lighting hides a pretty rundown and barebones setup.

Silom Soi 2, 02-266-4029. Open daily 10pm-2am. BTS Sala Daeng

2

THE STRANGER BAR AND LOUNGE

Tucked inside the vibrant Silom Soi 4, this sit-down bar boasts fun-themed cocktails and attracts a modern, younger gay crowd. Although small in size, the bar is big in personality, as can be seen in its glittery decor and feisty drinks menu. Every Wednesday, at 9:30pm, the bar serves something called Try their vodka-based Sperm Shots (B100).

Silom Soi 4, 084-711-6477. Open daily 5:30pm-2am.

BTS Sala Daeng

5

FAKE CLUB THE NEXT GEN

This legendary gay club made a comeback at the beginning of 2015 after its original venue in Or Tor Kor closed down. The new club has undergone a mega facelift to include a huge dance floor and world-class audio equipment. Enter the towering, neon-lit entrance and you’ll be greeted with opulent decor and tacky disco balls. The club has a rotating entertainment lineup that includes a live house band, one-off gigs, male-model stage shows and special performances by local artists.

222/32 , Ratchadaphisek Rd. (between Ratchadaphisek Sois 14-16), 091-724-2999. Open daily from 9pm-2am

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SOI TWILIGHT

Located just off Silom, this notorious soi (Thai for street) is filled with gay bars, the most popular arguably being Tawan Bar, a go-go bar best known for its shows featuring muscular male models daily at 10:30pm and 12:30am. Entry is free but everyone is required to have at least one drink in their hand at all times. The bar is also known for hosting events such as muscle men competitions.

Between Surawong and Rama IV Rd. MRT Silom

Dark Bar Open just three nights a week (Wed, Fri and Sat), this late-night bar looks like a room from a mansion that’s been left to rot. Half-a-dozen or so chandeliers drape from the ceiling (throwing out dark, moody lighting), while the walls are a decaying mix of black paint, bare brick and plaster. To drink, the focus is on Jameson, though they do have a few bottled beers and other basic spirits, too.

2/F, Ekamai Mall, Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-381-9896. Open Wed 9pm-2am; Fri 9pm-2am; Sat 9pm-2am

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GUIDE

ART+ ATTRACTIONS GUSHING OUT MY CONFESSIONS NEW

In his latest exhibition, photographer Naraphat Sakarthornsap catalogues the dark side of his character. It’s hosted by Whitespace Gallery, the crisp, factory-like comtemporary art space which aims to be a platform for young, emerging artists there, you'll find a focus on experimental and avant-garde art. There are six exhibitions per year, many of which are curated by Thai photographer Maitree Siriboon.

Through Aug 15, Whitespace Gallery, 4/F, Saladaeng Soi 1, 02-235-2500. Open Wed-Sun noon6pm. MRT Lumphini

Hot Spots TOP EXHIBITIONS THIS MONTH

1

4

SIGNS

The exhibition features a series of street photographs by local artist Akkara Naktamna, who shoots nightmarish, apocalyptic visions that incorporate everyday objects. This is one of the main exhibitions of PhotoBangkok 2015, a triennial international photography festival that aims to promote and provide a platform for the photographic community in Thailand.

DC-based photographer Frank Hallam Day captures images of public phone booths and their subtle traces of urban life, from job ads and entertainment listings to graffiti art and street protest messages from the recent political turmoil in Thailand. Curated by Brian Curtin as part of the PhotoBangkok 2015 Festival.

Through Aug 30. Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700. BTS Surasak

SIGNS

3 FLOWERS

2

FLOWERS

CALL WAITING: BANGKOK PHONE BOOTHS

BRAND NEW ART PROJECT

This group exhibition featuring the work of four up-and-coming Thai artists is part of a collaborative project between contemporary Bangkok galleries and leading Thai universities. It aims to introduce new talents to the international contemporary art network. The first phase features a mobile installation

by Titapa Thinnaracha and mini sculptures by Anon Chaisansook, while the second phase features 3D to 2D objects by Napat Vattanakuljalas and impressionist paintings by Jarasporn Chumri.

Through Aug 8 (phase 1). Aug 22-Sep 11 (phase 2).

Bangkok University Gallery, 2-4/F, BU International College Building, 110 Rama IV Rd., 02-350-3626. BTS Ekkamai

A painting exhibition featuring distinct artworks by 15 renowned Thai artists, including Parinya Tantisuk, Thavorn Ko-udomvit, Yanawit Kunchaethong and Praiwan Da-Kliang.

Each featured artist’s work uses flowers to interpret themes of beauty, delicacy, femininity and the remarkable traits of flowers as living organisms.

Aug 6-Sep 27. H Gallery, 201 Sathorn Soi 12, 085-021-5508. BTS Chong Nonsi

Y SPOTLIGHT

YenakArt Villa

This new multi-purpose, by-appointment-only art space sits in a modernist building whose soaring ceilings, expansive glass and crisp white facade take influence from the work of 1930s European architecture. Inside you'll find rotating exhibitions by local and European artists. To find an area this vast dedicated to contemporary art is something of a rarity this close to the center of town, let alone one as stunning as this.

Through Aug 30. DOB Hualamphong Gallery, Rama IV Rd., 02-422-2092. MRT Hua Lamphong

69 Soi Prasat Suk, Yen Akart Road., 02-235-9800. www. fb.com/yenakartvilla BRAND NEW ART PROJECT

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BANGKOK

SHOPPING NEW

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ANOTHER STORY

This concept store gathers designer products from all over the world with a heavy focus on stationery and home decor. Along with international tech, fashion and design brands, there are also plenty of Thai names, including stationery from local favorites Gray Ray, Labrador and Midori (all found in The Script zone). Home decor picks include Plural Design, PDM Brand, Karv Design and Alltag. The huge one-stop space also comprises a gallery, cafe and flower shop.

4/F, The Emquartier, Helix Building, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6138/9. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

Hot Spots THAI WOMENSWEAR DESIGNERS

1

KLOSET

Playful daily-wear best known for its girly prints and pastel colors, even in boyish pieces like shorts, pants and jumpsuits. Many of their collections mix in ‘70s influences, making it a top pick for Bangkok’s vintage lovers. The brand was founded in 2001 by Thai designer Mollika Ruangkritya.

3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1729. Open daily 10am-9pm. BTS Siam

2

3

MILIN

Since 2009, the self-titled womenswear brand of society girl Milin Yuvacharuskul has been known since 2009 for its ultra-sexy designs that are now imitated by dozens of other Bangkok brands. Her style sticks to glamorous but revealing pieces with a party sensibility.

3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1134. Open daily 10am-9pm. BTS Siam

GREYHOUND

5

VICKTEERUT

Founded by designer Teerut “Vick” Wongwatanasin, Vickteerut is a minimal-yetelegant womenswear label and one of the fastestrising names on the Thai fashion scene. The brand has a strong signature style to each collection, with a pared-back color palette that varies from grays to eath tones. Cuts are simple but full of subtle details.

112 Thonglor Soi 4, 02-782-8179. BTS Thong Loww

Y SPOTLIGHT

The brand started out with menswear during the 1980s before launching its women’s line some 10 years later. Under head designer Bhanu Inkawat, it’s become known for modern, minimal wear that blurs the line between formal and casual. Both the men’s and women’s collections also have a playful streak, with irregular patterns and unique prints that dare to be bold.

3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1, 02-252-3861. Open daily 10am-9pm. BTS Siam SRETSIS

4

SRETSIS

A collaborative project between the three Sukhahuta sisters (the brand name is sisters spelled backwards) founded back in 2002.

Today, it’s one of the country’s leading brands, best known for designs with an adventurous, bohemian and sweet edge. Every piece from Sretsis has a dreamy quality—think printed maxi dresses in safari colors—but some street fashion adaptations can also be expected.

2/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit, 02-1605874. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit

OP GARDEN Located in the hip Charoenkrung area, this open-air shopping mall is home to a wide array of shops that specialize in one-of-a-kind products such as Thai souvenirs, handicrafts and jewelry, as well as two art galleries showcasing cultural and religious work. Additionally, the large space has two on-site restaurants and a large grassy area by an outdoor pool for visitors to relax on after a day of retail.

4-6 Charoenkrung Soi 36, 02-235-8865. Open daily 10:30am-9:30pm

GREYHOUND

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GUIDE

HEALTH + WELLNESS TRAINING GROUND NEW

Located in a 1,200-sq-meter warehouse, this training facility is dubbed the biggest Crossfit gym in Asia. The gym boasts strong coaching staff and world-class equipment that caters to members and visitors of all levels. Inside, you’ll find Olympic-lifting platforms, pull-up bars, bumper plates and Concept-2 rowers, as well as a cafe serving fresh coffee and protein shakes, clean showers and lounge areas.

36/2 Sukhumvit Soi 69, 094-479-6988. Open daily 7am-9pm. BTS Phra Khanong

Hot Spots HAIR COLORISTS

1

THE ELEMENT LIFESTYLE SALON

This salon uses only natural and environmentally-friendly products to revive and treat your hair with the best possible care. We recommend the Aveda Invati expert coloring, starting at B4,000—a great solution for dry split-ends. Valid through August, you can grab 50 percent off on a botanical therapy hair treatment (usually priced at B3,500), which includes a free haircut.

G/F, Park Lane, Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai), 02-3820123. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.fb.com/theelementhairsalon

3

FAB RELATION BANGKOK

This Japanese salon opened its first Thai branch in Sukhumvit back in 2011, but they’ve just brought their high-tech hydraulic hairwashing machines with them. Want to look like the next J-pop idol? Hit up FaB Relation for their bold and fun highlights and lowlights (B3,000-B5,000), ombres (starting at B2,400) and coloring (B2,500).

Y SPOTLIGHT

Noble Remix, Sukhumvit Soi 36, 02-160-0861. Open 10am-7pm. BTS Thong Lo. www.fab-2011.com

4

MARK THAWIN ULTIMATE HAIR SOLUTION

Never worry about brassy yellow bleached hair again. Here, the ultimate hair color and technical set (starting at B5,000) delivers a rich hair color that’s sure to stand out. If you’re really looking for the VIP treatment, call for a reservation with Mark Thawin himself. Also, every Mon and Tue 10am-2pm you can get 20-50 percent off coloring.

330 Ladprao Soi 94, Town in Town Rd., 02-934-7776.

Open 10am-8pm. www.markthawin.com

THE ELEMENT LIFESTYLE SALON

2

MOGA AT THE EMQUARTIER

Another to offer Aveda’s organic hair treatments, this salon opened a new branch at Emquartier this March. The Invati color therapy starts at B3,400, but prices depend on how much hair dye your luscious locks need. Treat yourself to five hair therapies or spend B6,000 on their organic Japaneseinspired kiku products to get a free scalp treatment worth B2,300.

4/F, Helix Quartier, The Emquartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6190. Open daily 10am-8pm, BTS Phrom Phong. www.moga.co.th

5

BOY RIKYU BY BOY TOKYO

Japanese-inspired hair salon boy Rikyu by Boy Tokyo has just recently opened another branch in Sukhumvit. Before you get a cut, the hairdressers here will sketch out your new look. If you’d rather keep it quick, you can select your cut from the salon’s lookbook. Cuts from Japanese stylists are priced at B1,500, with Thai stylists B700 and coloring starting from B2,500.

45 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-115-5778. Open Sun-Tue, Fri-Sat 9.30am-7pm. BTS Phrom Phong. www.boyrikyu.com

The High Spa

Classily decked out in dark tones with a few Balinese influences, this all-in-one spa business offers facial treatments, aromatherapy, Swedish and traditional Thai massage. Six rooms are dedicated to facials and massages, while another two are VIP suites complete with hydrobaths. We recommend The High Wine Lover, in which your body is scrubbed with grape extract and salt, and then wrapped with grape extract before a rejuvenating 60-minute aromatherapy massage.

2/F, The Ninth Tower Grand Rama 9, Rama 9 Rd., 089697-9151, Open daily daily 10am-9pm

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GUIDE

ATTRACTIONS

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BAAN SILAPIN Tucked behind a series of small streets, this 200-year-old canal-side wooden house offers a variety of performances that highlight traditional Thai culture. The house formerly belonged to a merchant family, but is now home to a fellowship of artists who’ve transformed it into a public artist’s residence. Whether strolling around the ancient homes, sampling traditional drinks and desserts, shopping for art or just relaxing by the canal, you will feel a million miles from the hustle and bustle of Bangkok. Get there by 2pm to catch the daily puppet show (except Wednesday).

315 Wat Thongsala Ngam, Soi Petchakasm 28, Pasicharoen, 02-868-5279. Open Mon-Tue 10am6pm, Wed-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat-Sun 9am-7pm

Hot Spots

ESCAPE GAMES

Real-life escape games are trending globally, asking you and your friends to solve a series of brain-challenging puzzles and riddles in order to escape a specific scenario. The rules are usually pretty simple. Channel your inner Sherlock Holmes by using various clues to solve puzzles and find a way out of a locked room in under an hour.

2

Y SPOTLIGHT

ESCAPE HUNT EXPERIENCE

Up to five people can participate in each 60-90-minute logic-solving game. There are a total of three games on offer, two indoors and one outdoors in the nearby Terminal 21 shopping mall. Our pick is Blackmail in the Bedroom. Walkins have a surcharge of 10 percent, so book online for discounts.

B2 Level, 399 Interchange Building, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-611-2828. Open daily 10am-8.30pm (last game at 7pm). BTS Asoke. bangkok.escapehunt.com

BREAKAWAY

1

BREAKAWAY

Founded by Thai jewelry designer Duangdee Hongrattanakorn and her partner Taky Lau, this place is known for its horror-themed games. You’re allowed up to seven people per room with a 45-minute time limit, and there are four different challenging storylines spanning a range of difficulty levels; from finding a missing friend in Mix & Match (for beginners) to fleeing jail in Prison Break (intermediate). The advanced Gong Goi game is particularly scary, while you should also keep an eye on the new Ghost Ship game.

2/F, Lido Multiplex, Rama 1 Rd., 085-192-4007.

Open Mon-Fri, Sun 1pm-9pm, Sat 11am-9pm. BTS Siam. www.breakaway.co.th

3

ESCAPE ROOM

This venue takes its inspiration from a Japanese online escape game, where you must work your way out of anything from a haunted hotel room to a Pharaoh’s tomb or a slaughterhouse.

Having started in Malaysia, Escape Room International now has 16 branches around the world. You’re allowed 2-6 players per game and can ask for a clue twice over the course of your 45-minute game. The six rooms are rated from 3-5 stars in terms of difficulty and each has a different theme and story.

7/F, Zone SF Cinema City, MBK Centre, Phayathai Rd, 02-611-4994. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS National Stadium. www.escaperoom.international/ thailand

Flight of the Gibbon This zip-line tour operator has locations in Chiang Mai and Pattaya that give nature-loving risk takers amazing views of Thailand’s forests and an adrenaline rush at the same time. The Zipline Canopy Tour in Pattaya’s Chonburi jungle features three kilometers of wires suspended above the forest canopy, the longest of which is over 300 meters. For tourists staying in Bangkok, the company also offers day packages including nine-person shuttle bus to and from the city. Ten percent of profits also go towards primate rehabilitation, reforestation projects and ecological education programs.

29/4 Chang Kachasarn Rd., Chang Klan, 053-010660. www.treetopasia.com

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Y

GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Phahon Yothin ¾ËÅâ¸Թ

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5

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Makkasan ÁÑ¡¡ÐÊѹ

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Yaowarat Rd.

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Main road

2 Chatuchak Market

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BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

3 Vimanmek Mansion

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumphini Park

MRT

5 Khao San Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

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River/Klong (canal)

7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

!6 CentralWorld and Zen

8 Wat Pho

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9 Wat Arun

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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

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Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service.

Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price.

There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS­ Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines.

Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130.

The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40.

There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak.

Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS­ While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 AUGUST 2015 I W HER E THA ILA N D 33

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