Where® Thailand January 2016

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JANUARY 2016 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

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Phuket’s Old Town Thai Nightlife with a Twist

BANGKOK ADVENTURES

Quick day-trips that feel light years away from the city

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CONTENTS where

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l THAILAND l JANUARY 2016

The Guide

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BANGKOK

QUICK ESCAPES

25 DINING Make reservations at some of the top fine-dining spots in town, or check out these beautiful Thai restaurants.

Get the most out of your time in Bangkok with these amazing day trips in and around the city.

28 NIGHTLIFE The Sathorn neighborhood is buzzing with the city's hottest cocktail bars. Here are the best.

30 ART The best exhibitions in Bangkok's galleries this month.

32 SHOPS+SERVICES

NIGHTLIFE

Head to Bangkok's world-famous markets to unearth vintage treasures and locally designed fashion.

10 THE THAI TOUCH Bangkok's coolest bars are embracing local culture to serve drinks made from intriguing native ingredients.

Don't miss the city's top spots for a day of entertainment, whether with the family or adventuring alone.

AROUND THAILAND 14 BEST OF PHUKET TOWN

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34 ATTRACTIONS

36 NAVIGATE

Buzzing bars, authentic restaurants and cultural landmarks from Phuket's colonial capital.

Essential tips on getting around.

EXPLORING 18 THONGLOR & EKKAMAI Two of the hippest streets in town are paved with eclectic restaurants serving global cuisines and vibrant bars packed with the city's party crowd.

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20 OLD TOWN

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Also known as Rattanakosin, the area around the Grand Palace contains a wonderful mix of heritage buildings and time-honored restaurants.

38 21 THINGS WE LOVE

Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon

Junior Designer Wariya Whangwaewklang

Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grégoire Glachant

Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Lily Kittisrikangwan, Natcha Saguankiattichai, Bonnie Sananvatananont

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Senior Designer Panita Thiraphapong

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Distribution Manager Suda Angsuputiphant

HOT DATES

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.

Com

MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Cover By Flight of the Gibbon

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

ALSO INSIDE

www.wherethailand.com

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

@where_thailand

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HOT DATES

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JAN 9-10

VINTAGE YEAR

Grab yourself a Beerlao and start rifling through the selection of well-weathered clothes and specialty fashion finds imported from Japan at Made by Legacy flea market.

Once a year, this magnet for Bangkok’s cool and fashionable takes over Thailand’s State Railway with row upon row of booths selling vintage fashion and furnishings alongside beer bars and food trucks.

Hua Lamphong Train Station, State Railway of Thailand. MRT Hua Lamphong. Entry is B120

JAN 10, 24, 31

JAN 15-16

JAN 23

JAN 23-31

Lumphini Park is central Bangkok’s most beautiful, and every year opens its lawns to a series of free Sunday music performances called Concert in the Park. Our tip: pack your beach-towel for something to sit on as the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra takes the bandstand to play classical, jazz, pop and Broadway hits. You’ll find plenty of food around the area, though do note alcohol is banned from the park.

Performers Alvin Erasga Tolentino and Pichet Klunchun present an experimental theater piece combining the ancient Thai dance form Khon with contemporary dance. Unwrapping Culture touches upon themes of materialism and commercialism in a dramatic and humorous piece that captures the tension between tradition and modernity.

Glastonbury festival’s giant robot spider touches down in Bangkok this month for Gravity Arcadia, one of the city’s biggest dance music spectacles.

Dance to a huge lineup of DJ including Kashadee, DVBBs and Zomboy, all in the shadows of a hulking, fire-breathing, eight-legged mechanical beast looms over the crowd.

This month sees the return of Bukruk Urban Arts Festival, a 10-day project of public wall paintings, art exhibitions, artist talks, animation film screenings and an open-air music festival taking over the streets of Bangkok. Head to the Chao Phraya Docklands, Charoenkrung Road’s Grand Postal building or the streets of Chinatown near Hua Lamphong Train Station to see local and visiting street artists at work.

PARK LIFE

Sala Bhirom Bhakdi, Lumphini Park, Rama 4 Rd. Performances start at 5:30pm. MRT Lumphini. Free admission

OLD MEETS NEW

B400, available at bit.ly/223OrYw Alliance Francaise de bangkok, 179 Wittayu Rd., 02-670-4200. MRT Lumphini

WEB OF TRICKS

Lumpini Square, MRT Lumphini. Tickets are B2,500-5,000 from www. gravitythailand.com

STREET ART

Various art spaces and streets around the city. Visit www.bukruk. com for more information

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AROUND THAILAND

DAY TRIPPING

Go on an adventure and be back in Bangkok by bedtime. Here’s where and how.

BAAN SILAPIN

CORO FIELD

BAAN SILAPIN

LOPBURI

BAAN SILAPIN

CORO FIELD

A fellowship of artists bought a centuryold wooden house on the banks of Bang Luang Canal (Khlong Bang Luang in Thai), the former home of a merchant family, and transformed it into an artist’s residence and public space where they share their love of traditional Thai culture. Baan Silapin is where to experience the slow life of old Bangkok, whether that’s simply relaxing by the canal, strolling around the ancient homes, sampling traditional drinks, shopping for art or catching the Thai puppet show. It truly feels a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of central Bangkok.

Y How to get there: The nicest way is by

Feast on succulent honeydew melons plucked straight from the land and learn how to grow your own at this farm barely two hours from Bangkok. Here, farming is approached as a hobby to get away from hectic city life rather than a career, so you’ll find many workshops and stations spread over the vast, neatly managed compound. Another highlight is the on-site restaurant focusing on dishes made with melons, sweet potatoes and cherry tomatoes.

Y How to get there: While traveling by

hiring a longtail boat from Saphan Thaksin Bridge or Tha Tien Pier. Alternatively, catch the BTS to Wongwian Yai and then get a taxi from there to Charansanitwong Soi 3.

Wat Khuhasawan, Petchakasm Soi 28, 02-868-5297.

Open daily 10am-6pm. www.facebook.com/Baansilapin

car is the quickest way to get there, a train ride offers the most scenic route. There are multiple trains that run past Ratchaburi both ways on a daily basis, with the first one leaving Bangkok at 8:30am.

110 Ratchaburi-Paphok Rd., Suen Phueng, 092-5694791. Open Mon-Thu 10am-6pm. www.facebook. com/corofieldth

CORO FIELD

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SPICEROADS CYCLE TOURS

LOPBURI

SPICEROADS CYCLE TOURS

The Khmer-style ruins at Phra Prang Sam Yot are probably the town’s most famous attraction, and also where you’re most likely to be swarmed by the town’s equally famous and mischievous monkeys—be sure to put any jewelry out of reach of prying paws.

Other places not to miss include Phra Narai Ratchaniwet, a former palace converted into a national museum; Hosoponsin Museum, which focuses on religious Thai art and archaeology; and Wichayen House, a former royal reception house built to welcome the first envoys of Louis XIV of France.

Y How to get there: Lopburi is around 2.5

Whether it’s a half-day trip through Bangkok’s little-known neighboring jungle, or an 11-day cycling tour from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, Spiceroads Cycle Tours boasts more than 120 itineraries for you to pick from.

Planned by experienced tour leaders, each route immerses its guests in the sides of Thai culture many tourists don’t get to see, as well as taking them through breathtaking scenery.

Can’t decide on what tour you want to book?

We recommend the Bangkok Countryside tour, where you’ll cycle along the Saen Saeb canal to the barely-visited villages in the city.

Y How to get there: Spiceroads will assign

hours’ drive from Bangkok. Again, the best way to get there is by private car, which comes in handy when moving from one landmark to another.

a meeting point for all their cyclers who have signed up for a particular tour. Call or check their website for further details.

Pridi Banomyong Soi 26, 02-381-7490. www.spiceroads.com

LOPBURI

BUNGSAMRAN FISHING PARK Are you a budding angler? You may just hook the biggest catch of your life at this fishing park that encompasses a whole lake filled with huge Mekong catfish and giant carp.

While you sit back and relax with a beer in hand, make sure you stay alert for bites at all times, as some of these monsters can range from 50-100kg. For more privacy, there are lakeside bungalow rentals available, where you can fish from your own lakeside porch.

Beginners should take advantage of the onsite guides to help with technique, strategy and handling their bites.

Y How to get there: The best way to get there is by car. If you’re hailing a taxi, ask them to take you to Navamin Soi 42 in the Kaset area. It is recommended that you leave by 8am to avoid rush-hour traffic.

Soi Navamin 42, 02-734-9272. www.bungsamran. com

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FLIGHT OF THE GIBBON

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FLIGHT OF THE GIBBON

MUANG BORAN

MUANG BORAN

CHACHOENGSAO

MUANG BORAN

Barely an hour outside Bangkok sits the quiet province of Chachoengsao, home to some of the country’s most beautiful temples, a giant market selling hard-to-find Thai desserts and beautiful nature sites. Temples not to miss include Wat Sothon Wraram Worawihan, where the local community gathers for morning blessing; Wat Pak Nam Jo, an allgold temple used for peaceful meditation; and Wat Sanam Rattanaram, home to many beautiful Buddhist statues. After your temple tour, head over to the Talad Boran market to grab some local treats, such as their deliciously soft pandan-flavored chiffon cake.

Y How to get there: The best way to navi-

Also known as Ancient City, this massive outdoor museum offers its visitors a one-stop excursion through all of Thailand’s historic monuments in scaled format, from majestic Lanna temples to golden royal palaces. More than just a Disneyfied version of Thailand’s heritage, Muang Boran sculpted each of its exhibits in consultation with the National Museum to ensure historical and geographical accuracy. Don’t miss Sukhothai Wiharn, Chiang Mai’s seven-spired pagoda and the Tiger King’s place in Petchaburi.

Y How to get there: You can just hop into

gate this quiet province is by hiring a car for a day. The best time to visit Chachoengsao is in the weekdays, when the major temples aren’t swarmed by locals coming to make merit. On your way there, be sure to stop by one of the fruit stalls selling fresh coconuts for some of the country’s most aromatic coconut juice.

Sukhumvit Rd., Bangpoo, 02-709-1644. bit.ly/1CaaDTj

a cab. Or first take the BTS to Bearing, then take a short cab ride to to Ancient City. 296/1

VIMANMEK You will most likely already be in awe of the beautiful garden inside the palace gates, but step inside the colossal mansion and you’ll realize you can easily spend a whole day here, walking around the 31 exhibition rooms and

taking in some of Thailand’s most prized photographs and artefacts, as well as King Rama V’s personal belongings ranging from elegant antique furniture to rare foreign memorabilia.

But it isn’t just the museum’s displays that will catch your eye—the gorgeous teak structure itself boasts a great deal of colonial charm.

Y How to get there: Take a cab. Or first take the BTS to Victory Monument. Head to Exit 3 and at the bottom of the stairs, flag down a taxi and ask them to take you to Vimanmek Mansion.

16 Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300. Open Tue-Sun 9:30am-3pm.

FLIGHT OF THE GIBBON (PATTAYA) This zip-line tour operator gives nature-living risk takers amazing vies of Thailand’s forests and an adrenaline rush at the same time. The zip-line company tour in Pattaya’s Chonburi jungle features three kilometers of wires suspended above the forest canopy, the longest of which is over 300 meters. For tourists staying in Bangkok, the company also offers day packages including nine-person shuttle bus to and from the city. Ten percent of profits also go towards primate rehabilation, reforestation projects and ecological education programs.

Y How to get there: Flight of the Gibbon offers a complimentary roundtrip shuttle from Bangkok to Pattaya. Check their website for more details.

Huay Kaew, Mae On District, 053-010-660. www. treetopasia.com

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RIVER CRUISE TO AYUTTHAYA Travel upriver from Bangkok on a converted rice barge to visit Ayutthaya, Thailand’s former capital that was conquered by Burmese invaders in 1767. The site encompasses over 400 relics of ancient Thai architecture, from splendid palaces to atmospheric ruins, along with scenes of Thai country life along the river bank. It’s possible to go there and back in a day, but you can also spread the journey over three days, sleeping in the barge’s airconditioned cabins.

Y How to get there: Thanatharee Crusies offers direct hotel pick-up to the barge after a confirmed reservation.

21/8 Krungthonburi Rd., 02-440-1979. www.thanatharee.com

KOH KRET With no cars and most walkways unpaved (although there is a 5km paved trail you can bike on), this island just 20 minutes upriver from downtown Bangkok feels like another world. Cut off from the rest of the city by the Chao Phraya River, its inhabitants are mostly still Mon immigrants who retain their culture of producing beautiful handmade ceramic-ware. Don’t miss the Mon-influenced snacks while your there, either.

Y How to get there: The only way is by fer-

FLOATING MARKETS

Amphawa

Damnoen Saduak

Kwan Ream

Take a taxi 1.5 hours outside of Bangkok to reach possibly Thailand’s most charming and authentic floating market. Expect to see plenty more locals than tourists crowding the waterways of Mae Klong River, tucking into traditional Thai dishes like the steaming vermicelli and prawns, authentic comfort drinks like the cha yen (Thai ice tea) and various traditional desserts made from sugar palm and coconut. Take a boat trip in the evening to see the fireflies while enjoying the charm of the traditional canal-side way of living.

At Thailand’s most famous floating market, you can experience photogenic scenes straight from tourism brochures of canals packed with rowing boats. The market has been a trading spot for fresh fruit and vegetables for several decades and the best way to explore is still to get on a boat and get among the hustle and bustle. Get a bus from Southern Bus Station (Boromratchachonnanee Rd.) or book a day trip with a Bangkok tour operator.

03-224-1023. Open daily 6amnoon.

Get there before 7:30am to see boats of monks making their way down the canal for the local almsgiving ceremony, after which businesses open for you to have your fill of local delicacies. Don’t miss highlights like grilled pork from Trang province, kanom jeen nam ngeow (rice noodles in rib soup), khaosoi (Northern noodle curry) from Lampang and yam pak wan (sweet vegetable salad) from Saraburi. There are also shops selling clothes, souveniers and handicrafts.

Seri-Thai Soi 60

Next to Amphawan Temple, Amphawa District

ry. Take the BTS to Saphan Taksin pier, then flag down the express boat with the green flag that runs every twenty minutes, which will take you all the way to Koh Kret.

BANG KRACHAO Also known as Bangkok’s green lung, this 3,089-sq-kilometer stretch of greenery is Bangkok sans big buildings, mass traffic and giant crowds. Step off the boat and onto the what feels like a tropical island miles away from the big city with all its lights and pollution. Rent a bike for almost nothing and cycle the pathways that wind into the wet, untouched jungle.

Y How to get there: While you can take a taxi directly there, you’re likely to run into heavy traffic. Instead, tell the taxi driver to drop you off at the Klong Toey port. Once there, just tell a staff member that you want to cross the river to Bang Krachao, and wait for the next ferry.

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THAI TWISTS

Looking for a night out with some local flavor? Check out these bars specializing in Thai-made craft brews and cocktails with a Southeast Asian kick.

WOOBAR

BADMOTEL

ERR

TEP BAR

BADMOTEL

TEP BAR

ERR

Playing upon Thai tradition without pandering to tourist cliches, the bar draws in the same cool crowd as its Chinatown neighbors thanks to a blend of classic Central region music, Thai tapas dishes and a good line of home-infused ya dong (Thai herbal whiskey). This they blend into some outstanding cocktails, as well as serving straight up. Grab a free plate of the sweet rice crackers with chili jam and knock back their set of three ya dong shots served with sides of jasmineinfused water and pickled fruit to cleanse your palate. The bar also does wines made from Thai fruits such as mangosteen and passion fruit.

Chef-couple Duangporn Songvisava and Dylan Jones, the masterminds behind one of Bangkok’s top Thai restaurants, Bo.lan (see page 23), have gone for a casual and raw look in this shop-house restaurant near the river. It focuses on small-portioned, creative Thai dishes that go well with drinks, like chicken satay with brioche, naem (Northern-style garlic and sticky rice cured pork) and deep-fried whole-chicken skin with homemade Sriracha sauce. The bar also boasts plenty of cocktails made with Thai spirits such as the Chao Pra Ya (sticky rice spirit, ginger vodka, aromatic bitters and Absolut Mandarin) and the LTBT (Lamai, sugar cane spirit, lemongrass, pandan essence and lime).

69-71 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 098-467-2944.

Open Tue-Thu 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sun 5pm-1am. www. fb.com/tepbar

394 Maharaj Rd., 02-622-2291. Open Tue-Sun 11ammidnight. www.errbkk.com

Both the cocktails and food at this inventive bar in the middle of one of Bangkok’s top nightflie streets come with signature Thai touches, with choices such as pink Hale’s Blue Boy milk mixed with rum and served with dessert condiments like sweet corn, grass jelly and coconut jelly.

Another must-try is Bad Company, their homemade ya dong served with honey and pickled grape. The once-abandoned interior has been left with plenty of imperfections, in stark contrast to its sleek white paint job with neon accents. Regular music events take place on the second floor, while the sizable downstairs garden is great for the cooler months.

Sukhumvit Soi 55, between Thonglor soi 15 and 18, 02-712-7288. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.fb.com/ badmotel

WOO BAR Step inside W Bangkok’s main lobby to discover this achingly hip bar with its crisp white leather couches, violet lighting and jet-set clientele. The signature cocktails here make use of gastronomic techniques (think infusions and fermentation), such as the luxurious-looking Chor Muang (butterfly flower infused in raspberry vodka, lime juice, syrup and served with butterfly flower dipped in 24K gold dust) or the Chatuchak Ice Tea, a spin-off of the classic Long Island featuring Thai tea instead of coke, topped with foam to give the impression of a cha chak (traditional street-side Thai ice tea poured from cup to cup until the top gets foamy).

Lobby/F, W Bangkok, 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4000.

Open daily 9am-midnight. www.whotelbangkok.com

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NAMSAAH BOTTLING TRUST One of the partners behind this bright pink 100-year-old house is acclaimed chef Ian Kittichai. His menu is all about twists on Asian comfort food, like pad Thai with duck and foie gras or salmon tartare wonton tacos. Downstairs specializes in cocktails, with a long list of recognizable classics given local twists. Try the Thai rose-apple martini, or Sangsom salted caramel whiskey sour, which tastes exactly like its name.

80/20

LET THE BOY DIE

401 Silom Soi 7, 02-636-6622. Open daily 5pm-2am.

BTS Chong Nonsi. www.namsaah.com

LET THE BOY DIE Bangkok is awash with craft beer bars, but this is the one spot where you can break away from the American bottled import mainstays and find something really exciting: local brews, by the bottle and on tap. Architect-turned-brewer Pieak Pipattanaphon of Golden Coins brewery runs the spot, aided by another top dog of Bangkok’s homebrew scene. Together they host regular live music and serve a short list of classic pub grub amid rustic-meets-indoorgarden decor.

80/20

NAAMSAAH BOTTLING TRUST

542 Luang Rd., 096-695-6281, 082-675-9673. Open daily 6pm-midnight. on.fb.me/1WYj9Cu

80/20 The name means 80-percent local, 20-percent creative tweaks. As far as drinks are concerned, that results in creations like the Tid Koh, which fuses Phuket-made Chalong Bay rum with sugarcane juice and coconut juice foam topped with chopped kaffir lime leaves.

In the kitchen, the chef gets creative with native vegetables in dishes like the flavorful garden salad (yu choy and chayote shoots, longevity spinach, bougainvillea leaves, red oak with cream-based dry shrimp lime dressing) and the 80/20 Caesar salad (sauteed brussel sprouts, melting pork belly confit and dressing salted by shrimp paste).

1052-1054 Charoenkrung Rd., 095-843-2056. Open Mon, Wed-Sun 5pm-midnight. MRT Hua Lamphong. www.fb.com/8020bkk

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HOT ROD Blade Runner meets Tomb Raider in this effortlessly cool, strikingly original space serving creative or rare Thai dishes and elaborate, fruity cocktails. You Don’t Know Jack mixes Captain Morgan Dark Rum with crushed jackfruit, coconut liqueur, palm syrup and pineapple juice before topping it off with a Singha beer float, while Two Smiles features a potent blend of Tres Magueyes blanco tequila, orange liqueur, passion fruit, fresh lime juice and kaffir leaves served in a glass rimmed with chili sugar and salt.

HOT ROD

G/F, Park Lane, Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai), 02-7142575. Open daily 5pm-midnight. BTS Ekkamai. www. hotrodtapas.com

SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN The restaurant dishes out very potent (double pours, actually) original signature cocktails that play with Thai ingredients, like the Exile (vodka, lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves and ginger ale) and the Lycheegrass Collins (Beefeater Gin, lychee liqueur, fresh lemongrass, lime and soda).

They also have a menu of perfectly executed regional dishes like gaeng hang lay (Burmese pork belly curry) and pad krapao (stir fried basil) with lamb. This winning combo has seduced those seeking authentic food made with fresh, natural ingredients and served in an environment that’s ripe for drinking.

56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708.

Open daily 5:30pm-midnight. BTS Thong Lo. www. soulfoodmahanakorn.com

STUDIO LAM The shining light of the super-hip Sukhumvit Soi 51 neighborhood pairs global beats with homebrewed ya dong (Thai herbal whiskey). We like to drink it straight, but if you aren’t ready for that, go for one of their ya dong-based cocktails such as the tamarind cocktail (a mix of tamarind-infused ya dong, aloe vera juice, lime and passion fruit syrup) or the spicier Lam Tangwai (cinnamon, cilantro, cardamom juniper seedinfused ya dong mixed with cranberry juice, lime and passion fruit). Most nights you’ll find mo lam (Thai country music) cranking from the custom tube sound system.

Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. Open Tue-Sun 6pm2am. BTS Thong Lo. www.zudrangmarecords.com

OSHA

STUDIO LAM

WTF GALLERY & CAFE

HOT ROD

RUEN MALLIKA Tucked away in a traditional teak house, this twostory restaurant uses homegrown vegetables and herbs to make everything on their huge menu.

Recommendations include the chan cheu boossaba (assorted fried flowers such as butterfly peas, pagoda, cowslip creeper and sesbania flowers) and the highly aromatic mee krob song krueng (deep-fried vermicelli noodles with soybean curd).

While their cocktail menu isn’t all that unique, they do have a few local spin-offs of traditional cocktails such as the Mallika (a butterfly pea-based drink) as well as some ya dong blends.

Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-663-3211. Open daily 11am11pm. www.ruenmallika.com

OSHA Though the restaurant specializes in elaborately reconstructed classic Thai dishes like tomyam soup served through a vacuum coffee-maker, green curry with spherified pearls of coconut milk, it’s also an impressive—and glamorous—

place to head for a drink thanks to Siamese cocktail spin-offs like the Tomyam Kung (vodka, house-made tomyam bloody Mary mix and a cocktail prawn). The space, too, is something to behold, with its real gold leaf-coated stairwell and custom Ramakien wallpaper.

99 Wireless Rd., 02-256-6555. Open Mon-Sun 11am2:30pm, 6pm-midnight. www.oshabangkok.com

WTF GALLERY & CAFE This intimate bar favored by Bangkok’s local and expat hipsters dishes out stuff like the savory yet sweet Tee Yai (tequila, lime, chili-cinnamon syrup, Thai hot sauce, orange bitters), the refreshing Orchard (gin, lychee, lemongrass, lime and soda) and the Isaan Capiroska (rice spirit, vodka, tamarind juice and lime). Head there early to ensure a table if you’re too self-conscious to stand around outside (where most of the crowd congregates) and be sure to check out the upstairs gallery.

7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm1am. BTS Thong Lo. www.wtfbangkok.com

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ADVERTORIAL

PRICELESS CITIES With this exclusive privilege for MasterCard® cardholders, choose between a host of benefits redeemable in cities across the world. MasterCard provides one-of-a-kind advantages that upgrade your experiences, from shopping and hotel stays to front-row seats at sold-out shows and special dining privileges.

Jim Thompson House Tucked down a peaceful soi not far from the bustling Siam area, you’ll find this extraordinary venue. The former home of Jim Thompson, the American entrepreneur who made Thai silk famous globally, not only showcases exquisite silk, but also houses a restaurant that radiates Thompson’s well-known hospitality.

The House

The Shop

The Restaurant

Showcasing so much more than collections of hand-woven fabrics, this beautiful, six-building Thai house complex operates as a museum. Aside from presenting the company’s history and extraordinary products, the venue also displays a range of exquisite Asian antiques from the private collection of the former-architect American owner.

Learning about the man and his contribution to Thai silk may make it hard to resist owning a masterpiece yourself. The on-site shop is just one of the company’s 13 official retail shops in Bangkok, selling not only silk as a fabric but also products made from hand-woven silk. There, you’ll find home furnishings like cushion covers and table linen as well as scarves, blouses, dresses, handbags, shirts and neckties.

Regarded as one of the best hosts in town during his time, Jim Thompson’s hospitality was the inspiration behind a series of eponymous restaurants, bars and cafes, including a bar and restaurant under the roof of his house. Foodies know Thompson Bar and Restaurant as a place for delicious Thai and Western favorites, elegantly plated and served in a tranquil environment.

6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. www.jimthompsonhouse.com

Privilege for World & World Elite MasterCard cardholders Private visit of Jim Thompson House Museum (daily at 5-6pm) and dinner with an exclusive wine pairing for MasterCard credit card members only at Jim Thompson Wine Bar and Restaurant for THB 6,000++ per person. Through Dec 31, 2016.

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Terms & Conditions Minimum booking for dinner is 2 people and private dinner is 6 people.

Two days advance reservation required.

This promotion must be paid by MasterCard card only.

This promotion is not valid in conjunction with any other promotions, offers or deals.

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where

AROUND THAILAND BLUE ELEPHANT

SOUTHERN-STYLE COFFEE

CAFE Y TE Set in a restored shop-house, this coffee shop retains plenty of old Sino-style charm.

Apart from fresh coffee and tea, the menu also encompasses a vast selection of fussfree breakfast dishes and cakes—which are what most of the locals come here for.

Favorites include the passion fruit cheesecake, crepe cakes and the warm pear cake with caramel topping.

Casa Blanca Boutique Hotel Phuket, 26 Phuket Rd. ,Talat Yai, Muang, 076-219-019. Open daily 7am-7pm

KOPI DE PHUKET

PHUKET CHECK-LIST

Buzzing bars, authentic restaurants and architectural landmarks—here’s how to make the most of your visit to Phuket’s multicultural capital.

P

TUNG KA CAFE & RESTAURANT At this all-in-one lunch, coffee, dinner and drinking spot, you can expect long picnic tables and large family-style dishes such as yam saaibua goongsod (spicy lotus-root salad with shirmp), plamuek todkratiam prikthai (garlic-fried squid) and gai hor baitoey (chicken cooked in pandan leaves). There’s also a large selection of local and imported wines as well as the local Phuket lager beer. You’ll also get a spectacular skyline of Phuket Town.

Rang Hill, Khosimbi Rd., Ratsada (Phuket Town), 076211-500, 082-412 2131. Open daily 11am-10pm

TU KAB KHAO The team behind local Thai-fusion restaurant Table Spoon transformed a 120-year-old building into a villa-like eatery serving Southern recipes. In addition to classics such as moo hong

61 Phuket Rd., Taladyai, 076-212-225. Open daily 11am-9pm

REST AND RELAX

huket Town, similarly to Penang or Singapore, was founded by Chinese migrants who settled the area in the 19th century. Its architecture has British, Portuguese and Chinese influences, while the culture blends mainland Chinese and local traditions. Stroll along Thalang and Dibuk roads to see beautiful shop houses, and make sure to stop at these happening spots:

BEAUTIFUL THAI RESTAURANTS

Traditional-style coffee and savory oldmeets-new cuisine is served from a twostory building where the ground floor embraces a Chinese tavern-feel and the second a Chinese teahouse. Hot caffeinated beverages are served to you old-school style in small glass cups (similar to a flat white), while chilled beverages are first made hot and poured over ice.

SUKKO SPA

(braised pork belly) and mee gaeng pu (crab curry with noodle), they also have handsome cocktails like the Baba-Nyonya, which plays on Peranakan culture by mixing two glasses into one drink, symbolizing the inter-marriage between Chinese men and Malay ladies.

This day spa offers utilizes ancient Thai holistic healing methods that take into consideration the balance of the earth, wind, water and fire elements in the body. The facility is spacious and bright, with a design that evokes a colonial mansion. Two-hour pampering sessions come in the form of a “Thai relaxing” treatment (herbal steam, body scrub and massage) or “get glowing” package (herbal steam, body scrub and aromatherapy body).

8 Phang-nga Rd., Taladyai, 076-608-888. Open daily 11am-midnight

5/10 Moo 3, Vichit, Muang, 076-263-222. Open daily 10am-10pm

BLUE ELEPHANT This world-famous Thai restaurant group has renovated the century-old Prapitak Chinpracha Sino-Portuguese mansion.

What once belonged to an affluent family is now a luxurious dining space and cooking school serving some of the best royal Thai cuisine on the island. The menu serves both Central and Southern dishes, and has some nice set menus for those who’d rather put their faith in the chef’s personal choices.

96 Krabi Rd., 076-354-355. Open daily 9am-midnight

TU KAB KHAO

CAFE Y TE

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THE RAINTREE SPA

SAXOPHONE

HOLE-IN-THE-WALL EATERIES

Nestled in a tropical garden featuring 100-year-old raintrees, this peaceful spa offers a list of spa packages such as the Taste of Heaven (aromatic oil massage, facial treatment, foot and hand reflexology massage, 3.5hrs) as well as 60-minute a-la-carte options such as the royal Thai massage and banana oatmeal body mask.

When one of Bangkok’s oldest and best-loved jazz bars opened up on Phuket this year, it brought with it the same low-key, red-brick vibe and high calibre of music (the guys on sax, clarinet and piano can seriously play). Stick to the reasonably priced beer and whiskey, order up some fried drinking snacks and enjoy.

This generations-old family business in a nondescript, open-air roadside location is famous for its signature Phuket-style pad mee Hokkien (Hokkien-style egg noodles).

The noodles are usually enjoyed alongside a chilled Thai-style tea and a side of satay.

41/3 Chana-Charoen Rd., Talad Yai, Muang, 076-355091-2. Open daily 6pm-2am

214/7-8 Phuket Rd., Taladyai, 076-216-293. Open daily 9:30am-6:30pm

ZIMPLEX

PIRRERA

Designed to mimick a science laboratory and specializing in creative cocktails, this bar sees bartenders donning white coats to mix colorful, molecular drinks using lab equipment.

Many of the creations are served in shot form, such as the Hannibal (a mix of various schnapps and liqueurs) and the Nebula Jellyfish (a mix of vodka, rum and various liqueurs). But don’t go too crazy. Each customer is limited to “only” 20 shots a night.

Soak up the place’s laid-back local charm as you tuck into fuss-free Chinese heritage dishes, such as the khao man gai (chicken rice) and khao moo daeng (barbecue pork and rice). What’s for dessert? An array of brownies, fruit cakes and fruit tarts.

Montree Rd., Taladyai, 076-232-054. Open daily 10am-9:30pm

CRAFT BEER AND POTENT COCKTAILS

PINT FACTORY Bare brick walls, blond-wood tables, Chesterfield sofas and wooden barrels make for a comfortable if rustic drinking venue. Located in a community mall, Limelight Avenue, Pint Factory is home to over 100 types of beers and ciders (local, mainstream and craft), both in bottle and draft form, as well as Western fare like garlic bread, pasta, burgers and fries.

2/F, Limelight Ave., 2/23 Talat Yai, Muang, 084-8840495. Open daily 11am-11:45pm

MEE TON POE

39/1 Deebuk Rd., Phuket Town, Muang, 092-4978953. Open daily 9am-8pm

156/48 Phang-Nga Rd., Taladyai, 084-003-6664.

Open daily 9pm-1am

"One of the rare tailors that Bangkokians love to recommend." _ WHERE Thailand

KOPI DE PHUKET

FEATURED IN

Pinky Tailor Mahatun Plaza Arcade, 888/40 Ploenchit Rd., Bangkok. BTS Ploenchit (Exit 2).

02-253-6328, 02-253-5055.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm (Sun by appointment). www.pinkytailor.com

MEE TON POE

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HOT ROD

SUKHUMVIT SOI 51-65 Nearly all the streets—or “soi,” in Thai—along Sukhumvit Road are known by their number. But Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) and Ekkamai (Sukhumvit Soi 63) have made names for themselves. These two parallel streets are quite simply the most buzzing in Bangkok, home to the best bars, clubs and restaurants. Here is our pick of the bunch.

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 18 THONGLOR & EKKAMAI

20 OLD TOWN

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EXPLORING

THONGLOR & EKKAMAI Y HOT SPOTS

Big in Japan A sizable Japanese community makes this one of Bangkok’s best locations for ramen, sushi and sake.

@1 Honmono Sushi The excellent sushi here is reasonably priced, plus the restaurant isn’t a bewildering experience for neophytes.

Years after opening, it still packs in affluent Thais every night (reservations are a must) with its fresh fish from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo.

19 Thonglor Soi 23, 02-185-1447.

Open Mon-Fri 5pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-2pm

NEW !7

UPSTAIRS AT MIKKELLER

Craft beer house Mikkeller (see page 26) pulls in a crowd devoted to tasting the finest hops from around the world in a laidback setting. But up on the second story of this leafy, converted family home you’ll find something quite different: a nine-course fine-dining beer pairing experience helmed by a former sous chef at Chicago’s three-Michelin-star Grace restaurant. He describes his food as progressive American, meaning a mix-and-match approach to techniques and ingredients that’s unbounded by geography. It’s only open FriSat dinner time, and 3-4 days notice is recommended.

26 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-381-9891. Open Fri-Sat 6:30-10:30pm

THINGS TO DO

SHOPPING

There are only a few art spaces in this neighborhood, but they are among the more interesting in town. 1 Pridi Banomyong Institute (65/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 [Thonglor], 02-3813860-1), for example, is the theater of choice for some of Thailand’s youngest and most experimental dancers and actors. Check the B-Floor Theater Group’s Facebook page (www.fb.com/Bfloor.theatre.group) prior to visiting for up-to-date information on shows. Further down the same street, 2 Ardel’s Third Place Gallery (137137/1 Thonglor Soi 10, 02-714-7929) showcases work from both established and emerging local artists in a striking space, with its concrete floor, vast windows, whitewashed walls and exposed steel beams. After browsing the gallery, head to the next street over to visit 3 Health Land (96/1 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-392-2233), where you’ll get one of the best-priced massages in Bangkok.

Clean, private treatment rooms and efficient staff account for its massive local popularity.

This is hipster central, and shopping around Ekkamai-Thonglor is all about vintage. 4 Machine Age Workshop (281/7 Ekkamai Soi 15, 02-381-8596) is an ambitious vintage fashion and furniture store set in a giant, open-plan warehouse. It specializes in repurposed odds and ends from America’s manufacturing age: army drafting tables, wood radios and leather luggage. They also do a good beef brisket sandwich, if you’re feeling peckish. Be warned, some of the items are pretty expensive, although that doesn’t mean bargains can’t be found. For a more guaranteed wallet-friendly bet, head

MACHINE AGE WORKSHOP

@2 Mikaku This spin-off from an 80-year-old restaurant in Japan is known for serving some of the most revered Japanese beef in the world. The family’s third-generation owner and chef mans the grill himself, selecting only A4-5 graded wagyu from Kobe and hand-slicing tenderloin and sirloin to the perfect thickness.

103/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), between soi 3 and 5. 02-712-9080.

Open daily 5-11pm; Sat, Sun noon-2pm

UNFASHION

up the street to leather-specialist 5 Unfashion (Ekkamai Soi 10, 094421-2411), where brogues, loafers, duck boots, belts and other accessories in various states of disrepair can be browsed while sipping a coffee from the adjoining cafe. Visit 6 Again & Again (Market Place, Thonglor Soi 4, 089-486-5359) for something a little more feminine. Unlike other raggedlooking vintage stores, this It-shop hooks its customers up with glittery dresses, shirts and a selection of highquality skirts and pants. Crate-diggers should drop by 7 Zud Rang Ma Records (7/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 088-8911314), one of the best record stores in

@3 Teppen Tucked behind Major Sukhumvit cinema, this wooden-floored pub is a favorite among Japanese expats looking for a taste of home. The warm lighting and sincere staff create a friendly, authentic vibe.

14/2 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02-714-1412.

Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Ekkamai

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THONGLOR & EKKAMAI

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Tucked inside a narrow lane, this cool, intimate shop-house bar is favored by Bangkok’s local and expat hipsters. The ground floor features a small corner bar with retro touches like old movie posters, vintage bench seating and flowery tiles. Head there early to ensure a table if you’re too self-conscious to stand around outside (where most of the crowd congregates) and be sure to check out the upstairs gallery.

7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. BTS Thong Lo. www.wtfbangkok.com

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Well-to-do young executives rub shoulders with hotel guests at !6 Octave Rooftop Bar (45/F, Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000), which features 360-degree views around a circular bar. The craft-beer stronghold !7 Mikkeller (26 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-381-9891) attracts a more laidback crowd, and is set in in a charming mid-century house. Meanwhile, !8 Iron Fairies (404 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-8875) boasts a Dickensian factory theme, with crumbling brick walls and a scarttering of ancient industrial machinery. Not all the area’s nightlife is geared at the party crowd. !9 A.R Sutton Engineers Siam (G/F, Park Lane Ekkamai) might be tiny, but it’s one of the coolest cocktail lounges in town: a colonial-inspired bolthole that does a good job deceiving you into thinking it’s always been in its tucked away location. Across from it, @0 Hot Rod (02-714-7525) is as much a bar as a great spot to nibble on authentic Thai food. And whatever you do, don’t miss WTF (see below) and @5 Studio Lam (02-661-6661), which both count as some of Bangkok’s most fun, laidback spots to spend a Fri-Sat night.

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!1 Supanniga Eating Room (160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7508), where the mix of Eastern Seaboard and Isaan food makes for arguably the best Thai restaurant in Bangkok, and !2 Phuket Town (160/8 Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402), with its classic Southern dishes. For the best Thai dessert around, don’t miss the mango and sticky rice at !3 Maewaree (1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-392-4804)—ours and many others’ absolute favorite. For Western food, head to !4 4 Garcons (1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor

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NIGHTLIFE

Sukhumvit

You are in Bangkokians’ food heartland, from street eats to high-end Thai to European fine dining. 8 Roast (2/F, Seenspace, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-1852865) combines artisanal coffee-making with a brunch menu that covers dishes such as crab cake Benedict and corned beef hash. For a finer option, 9 Bo.lan (Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-2602962) takes a traditional approach to Thai food with the occasional contemporary tweak in the presentation. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that regularly changes to reflect seasonal products (see page 25).

More laidback and with dishes closer to street food, !0 Soul Food Mahanakorn (56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 085904-2691) serves a brief menu of perfectly executed Thai regional dishes.

Don’t leave without trying its excellent, double-strength cocktails. Regional Thai cuisine specialists include

Sukhumvit 53

DINING

Soi 13) for some classic French fare.

Alternatively, ignore all the fancy bars and restaurants and head to !5 Sabaijai Kebtawan (65 Sukhumvit Soi 63), where a feast of Thai seafood can quickly turn into a Leo beer-fueled karaoke session with friendly locals.

Sukhumvit 51

town, stocking an eclectic collection of vintage Thai funk and global sounds.

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Tha Maharaj

NATIONAL MUSEUM FRONT HALL The charming front hall of the National Museum has recently undergone a stunning renovation to showcase the museum’s most beautiful Buddhist treasures in a single room. Formerly the viceroy’s palace, the front hall itself is highlighted by a monumental Buddha head from the Ayutthaya period that overlooks the whole exhibition space, while a stunningly graceful bronze Bodhisattva from the Srivijaya period takes center stage amid Khmer and Hindu sculptures. You’ll also find carefully-kept smaller pieces ranging from Buddhist art to delicate Rattanakosin-era puppets.

This themed community mall looks to recapture the charm of the Old Town’s architecture.

The riverside pavilion consists of over 50 open-air restaurants and shops spread over seven buildings styled in keeping with the area’s historic roots. There’s also a riverside promenade and community garden. Don’t forget to pop by Editions, an artsy bookstore dedicated to hardcovers and craft souvenirs, before grabbing a bite at Peppina.

!6 11/1 Maharaj Rd., 02-866-3163-4, 090-926-5265. Open daily 10am-10pm

1 4 Na Phrathat Rd., 02-224-1333. Open Wed-Sun and national holidays 9am-4pm

T

he Rattanakosin area, commonly called the Old Town, is tucked inside a bend in the Chao Phraya River and encompasses some of the city’s most revered cultural landmarks. But beyond the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, there are also some excellent restaurants and beautiful riverside bars.

MORNING Start your walking tour from Prachan Pier (Tha Prachan in Thai) with a visit to the historic 1 National Museum (4 Na Phra Tha Rd., 02-224-1333), which houses some of the most impressive art and antiques in the country (see more above). In addition to historic pieces from the Dvaravati Srivijaya to Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods, the museum features regional art like Indian

GRAND PALACE AND WAT PHRA KAEW

Gandhara, Chinese weapons, ancient ceramics and musical instruments. At the other end of Sanam Luang is the most-visited landmark in Thailand, 2 Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew (open daily 8:30am-4:30pm. Entry B350).

Construction on the royal residence of the first king of the current Chakri Dynasty began in 1762, and the complex is split into three zones: the Outer Court, where you’ll find Wat Phra Kaew and the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred Buddha image; the Middle Court, which contains the Dusit Maha Prasat and Chakri Maha Prasat buildings; and the Inner Court, former residence of the royal consorts. Be sure to get there early before the day is too hot. Beware, touts will tell you the palace is closed for a national holiday. Ignore them! On the same grounds, you’ll also find the 3 Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles (Na Phra

QUEEN SIRIKIT MUSEUM OF TEXTILES

Lan Rd., Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, 02-255-9430), which tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand. Highlights include the queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading international designers.

of the Grand Palace. Relax among trees and lotus ponds and enjoy a great view of the Temple of Dawn before you continue on your walk. Next, pay your respects to the 43-meterlong reclining Buddha at 5 Wat Pho (open daily 8am-5pm), whose threemeter-tall feet are inlaid with mother of pearl displaying 108 Buddhist symbols. In a beautiful colonial-style building nearby, 6 Museum Siam (4 Sanam Chai Rd., 02-225-2777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm) is one of Bangkok’s best museums, portraying the history of Thai communities through multimedia installations and interac-

AFTERNOON Behind the Grand Palace, on the bank of the Chao Phraya River, is the twoyear-old 4 Nagaraphirom Park.

What was once a row of shop-houses and several other old buildings is now a breathable green space with views

MUSEUM SIAM

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OLD TOWN tive exhibitions. The venue also hosts an interesting lineup of rotating exhibitions.

PHRA ATHIT HOTSPOTS

EVENING

Some of the Old Town’s best venues line this charming riverside road.

After exploring Thailand’s heritage, take a break at 7 Sala Rattanakosin (39 Soi Ta Tien, Maharaj Rd., 02-6221388) and enjoy Thai food with great views of the 8 Temple of Dawn (Wat

!3 Escapade The specialty here is Angus beef burgers that regularly rank among Bangkok’s best. Double your intake with a Quarter Cow (two beef patties, two slices of cheddar cheese with truffle sauce) and be sure to try the decadent smoothie cocktails.

SHEEPSHANK

112 Phra Athit Rd., 081-406-3773. Open Tue-Sun noon-midnight

!4 Sheepshank This restaurant is designed to resemble a sophisticated boat house where you can sit back and enjoy views of the river and Rama 8 Bridge while eating Spanish dishes like seafood paella with saffron.

47 Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-5165. Tue-Thu 5:30pm-midnight; Fri-Sun 5:30pm-1am. www.sheepshankpublichouse.com SALA RATTANAKOSIN

!5 Pipit Banglamphu Arun). This stylish riverside venue boasts a small number of guestrooms but half of the building is dedicated to wining and dining. There’s also a rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping cocktails. If you’re in the mood for more drinks, head to 9 The Deck (Arun Residence, 36-38 Maharaj Rd. 02-221-9158), a charming outdoor venue just a short walk from Sala Rattanakosin. Set in a five-room boutique hotel, The Deck offers a delightful atmosphere in which to enjoy another drink or two, and also has a sophisticated Thai food menu. Or enjoy some comforting Northeastern Thai dishes at !1 Err, a charming rustic restaurant run by chef couple Duangporn Songvisara and Dylan Jones of Bo.Lan (see page 23). Finish your Old Town

Thanks to the efforts of the Banglamphu community, plans to demolish Bangkok’s first printing school, which dates back to 1924, were derailed, and the building last year reopened as the Pipit Banglamphu Museum. Registered as a place of national importance by the Fine Art Department of Thailand, the museum focuses on the culture of Bangkok’s Rattanakosin Island area, as well as the printing school’s history.

Next to Phra Sumen Fort, Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-1850. Entry B100. Closed Mondays. www.fb.com/pipitbanglamphu ESCAPADE

!4 Pra Athit Pier

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tour with a night visit to !1 Pak Klong Talad (open 24 hours), Bangkok’s largest flower market. Flowers from not only Thailand but around the world arrive here each day to be distributed to hotels, restaurants and small retailers. You’ll find everything from local jasmine to imported red roses. Fresh batches arrive after midnight, which is when you’ll get to experience the busiest trading atmosphere. If you’ve still got some energy left, go mingle with backpackers from all over the world on the notorious !2 Khao San Road. Our top addresses there: Bombay Blues, Hippie de Bar and Fabulous Bar & Dessert Cafe.

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GETTING THERE

It’s not easy to get to the Old Town as there is no the skytrain or MRT coverage, and a car journey can take up to an hour due to heavy traffic.

The most convenient route is perhaps to take the skytrain to BTS Saphan Taksin and catch a boat from Sathorn Pier to Pra Athit Pier.

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THE SUMMER HOUSE PROJECT NEW

This brand new diner by the river serves European seafood dishes amid wonderful views through expansive picture frame windows.

The drinks here focus on local ingredients, ranging from the Gold Gold Gold (prosecco, mango puree and gold leaves) to the Pina Pamila (Malibu, rum and palm juice).

45/1 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-861-0953

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 23 DINING 26 NIGHTLIFE

28 SHOPPING 30 ATTRACTIONS

31 ART 32 NAVIGATE

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LUKA CAFE

Pan Road is a leafy street running from the Hindu temple on Silom to the Myanmar Embassy on Sathorn. It’s close to that end that you’ll find Luka, a cafe with a focus on light fare (salads, sandwiches) and coffee that’s fast becoming a favorite lunch spot for Sathorn’s busy professionals. On the menu is down-to-earth comfort food like a breakfast burrito with quinoa, scrambled egg, cheese, sausage, tomato salsa, avocado and “Thai chipotle” salsa; grilled cheese sandwich served with a thick tomato soup; and “sloppy meatball sandwich” with fresh mozzarella, roasted garlic, sweet marinara and a brioche bun. Oh, and they pour a wonderful cup of coffee, too.

Casa Pagoda, 64/1 Pan Rd., 02-637-8558. Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat-Sun 8:30-7pm. BTS Surasak.

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Hot Spots FINE DINING

2

EAT ME

Ranked as the 25th of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, Chef Tim Butle’s kitchen pulls off bold combinations like Alaskan scallops with avocado, yuzu and pancetta, while a simple chicken salad is elevated to new heights by the addition of red papaya, toasted coconut and betel leaf. The decor is a cool, yet cozy, melange of modernist and natural, with rotating exhibitions by local artists. The service is diligent and sweet, and the cocktails are perfection.

BO.LAN

1

1/6 Soi Phiphat 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. Open daily 3pm-1am. BTS Sala Daeng.

BO.LAN

Chef couple Bo and Dylan (both formerly worked at David Thompson’s Michelinstarred Thai restaurant, Nahm) make all their Thai food from scratch, including the curry pastes, using only the best ingredients. Their traditional style, jazzed up with a few modern plating touches, has earned them global recognition. We recommend the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu regularly changing to reflect seasonal products. Bo.lan’s stylish house prominently features dark wood and ceiling covered with kradong (flat baskets).

Red Sky

24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-2961-2. Open Tue-Sun 6-10:30pm; Sat-Sun noon-2:30pm. BTS Thong Lo.

3

The 55th floor view from Centara’s rooftop puts this bar in the same league as high flyers like Vertigo at the Banyan Tree. Alfresco dining and drinking takes place under a swooping, red-lit arch in an environment that is somewhat more relaxed than the adjoining Fifty Five restaurant.

Chef Hugo Coudurier prepares a menu focused on high-quality French ingredients, best enjoyed with a drop from the hotel’s notably excellent wine cellar.

5/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-6255. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Siam

EAT ME

GAGGAN

After building a solid foundation in Indian and Italian cooking at hotel restaurants, Gaggan Anand did a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, the former modern-gastro capital of the world. His eponymous restaurant serving molecular Indian cooking ranked No. 1 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2015. Expect the unexpected like foams, spherification, dehydration and more alongside traditional dishes of Indian curry.

GAGGAN

68/1 Lang Suan Rd., 02-652-1700. Open daily 6pmmidnight. BTS Ratchadamri.

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TASTE OF THE CITY

DINING HONG KONG Recent Openings

80/20 From the decor to the food, this new Charoenkrung diner offers a smart of Thai and Western.

1052-1054 Charoen Krung Rd., 095-8432056

CHAIRMAN A retro Hong Kong-style diner from the team behind the popular Chef Man dim sum restaurant.

2/F, Emquartier, Sukhumvit Soi 35, 02-2610426. BTS Phrom Phong

THE SUMMER HOUSE PROJECT A revierside restaurant that’s more than just good views.

41/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-861-0953

Advertise your business with us ­ starting from B5,000

UNO MAS A semi-alfresco tapas bar and restaurant on top of Centara Grand.

54/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd., 02 100 6255

Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Credit card payment accepted.

24 W H E R E T H A I LAND I DECEMBER 2 0 1 1 I www.wheretraveler.com

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DINING THAI FOOD SERVED IN BEAUTIFUL HOUSES

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NAHM

David Thompson’s Nahm serves fiery, multi-course set menus that offer devoutly authentic flavors and plenty of choice. We use the word “course” loosely, as this is true, communal Thai-style dining. Try the salad of fresh river prawns with pork and Asian pennywort, and the perfectly balanced coconut and tumeric curry of blue swimmer crab served with kanom jin (traditional Thai rice noodles).

27 Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3388.

7-10:30pm; Mon-Fri noon-2pm.

Open

daily LE DU

5

Blue Elephant The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonialstyle mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts. Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authentic flavor. While more modern Thai restaurants have lately grabbed most column inches, Blue Elephant is still worth a visit for both atmosphere and food.

233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Surasak.

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LE DU

A Thai chef with a degree from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) powers this inventive Asian restaurant. His dishes focus heavily on local and seasonal produce, which are prepared using modern cooking techniques to produce original and delicious food that clearly evokes Thai flavors while challenging diners senses. The wine list is equally exciting, with bottles sourced only from organic producers or boutique importers.

NAHM

399/3 Silom Soi 7, 092-919-9969. Open Mon-Sat 6-11pm. BTS Chong Nonsi.

Ruen Urai This century-old house outfitted with beautiful antiques is just as stunning outside as inside. Paying homage to the original owner, who was a herbal medicine practitioner, the menu incorporates strong herbs and spices such as green peppercorn, wild ginger, galangal and turmeric. Ingredients are of high quality and the curry pastes taste like they’re made from scratch. We’re particularly drawn to the grilled river prawns with spicy galangal dressing and wild boar sautéed with spicy curry and herbs.

118 Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72. Open daily noon11pm. BTS Sala Daeng.

Sala Rim Naam The signature Thai restaurant of Bangkok’s most pedigreed hotel serves mild yet authentic flavors, with nods to Royal cuisine and an emphasis on quality ingredients. It’s set on the other side of the river from the main hotel, with a terrace that overlooks the water for alfresco dining. Recommended dishes include goong phad prik daeng (fried prawn with garlic and red chili sauce) and the massamun nuea (Southern-style beef curry with sweet potato and onion).

Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave., Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000 ext 7333. Open daily noon-3pm, 5pm-midnight. BTS Saphan Taksin.

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE NEW

HAVANA SOCIAL

Going for a ‘40s-50s Havana high-life vibe, this hidden bar specializing in gin is Cuban pastiche done right: shuttered windows, spare lighting and crumbling walls spruced up with colorful tiles, murals and live AfroCuban music. The entrance is tucked inside a small alley opposite Fraser Suites. Find the telephone booth labeled “Telefono,” then call the place (on your modern-day smartphone) for the night’s unique entry code.

Sukhumvit Soi 11, 087-066-7711. Open daily 6pm-2am.

BTS Nana. www.facebook.com/havanasocialbkk

Hot Spots THE BEST PLACES TO DRINK IN SATHORN

3

REVOLUCION COCKTAIL

This colorful Latin-American-themed bar, is the most lively spot in this chic enclave of cocktail bars and restaurants. The specialty is both classic cocktails like mojito and Moscow Mule, as well as reinvented signatures like the Aged Negroni (gin, Martini Rosso, Campari, fresh strawberry, blueberry, orange, passion fruit and soda). There’s also an interesting selection of tapas dishes.

1

BAMBOO BAR

BAMBOO BAR

Opened back in 1953, this hotel bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. Singers take the mic at 9pm daily, accompanied by music from a baby grand and surrounded by framed portraits of jazz legends who’ve passed through over the years. What’s more, the bar also does some of the best cocktails in town, whether its signature classics or elaborate, molecular concoctions.

1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoenkrung Soi 40 (Oriental Ave.), 02-659-9000. Open Sun-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. BTS Saphan Taksin

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50 Sathorn Soi 10. Open daily 6pm-2am. BTS Chong Nonsi

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In what used to be the Soviet Embassy, The House on Sathorn complex artfully blends period details with modern touches. The bar here serves up herbal flavors in cocktails like The Garden, which mixes thyme-infused gin with chamomile tea, lime juice and rosemary syrup.

106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4000. Open daily noon2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

‘

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SMALLS

This laidback, late-night bar is split over three rickety levels of an old corner townhouse where the owner’s prized collection of contemporary art matches with a hands-off approach to restoration. Book in advance if you want to nab a seat with a view on the rooftop terrace. Or head downstairs to knock back shots of absinthe (the house specialty) and mingle with a hard-drinking after-work crowd of expats and locals.

186/3 Suanphlu Soi 1, 095-585-1398. Open WedSun 7pm-2am; Mon 7pm-2am.

Sing Sing

NAMSAAH BOTTLING TRUST

One of the partners behind this new venue, set in a 100-year-old house painted pink, is acclaimed chef Ian Kittichai. His menu is all about twists on Asian comfort food, like pad Thai with duck and foie gras or salmon tartare wonton tacos. Downstairs specializes in cocktails, given local twists, while upstairs offers more formal dining in a brightly wallpapered setting.

401 Silom Soi 7, 02-636-6622. Open daily 5pm2am. BTS Chong Nonsi

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THE BAR

SMALLS

Prolific Bangkok-based Aussie designer Ashley Sutton’s (Maggie Choo’s, Iron Fairies) expresses his Chinoiserie fretish here in a Hollywood vision of 1930s Shanghai that’s all lanterns, red lighting and elaborate metal screens. The petite dance floor acts as a hub for a network of mezzanines, sunken bars and Sutton’s trademark warren of secret passages leading to single-table balconies and speakeasy-style backrooms. Look for the drinks containing Iron Balls, Sutton’s own gin.

Sukhumvit Soi 45 (next to Quince), 097-285-6888.

BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 8pm-2am.

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HEALTH + WELLNESS

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THETA STATE FLOAT CENTER Theta refers to a state of mind where brain activity slows almost to the point of sleep; a trance-like state typified by heightened receptivity and creative inspiration. At this spa you’ll find two futuristic float pods and two float rooms that promise to achieve exactly this. Both types of chamber are soundproof and lightproof, filled with around 25 centimeters of dense, skin-temperature Epsom saltwater, which allows you to float effortlessly on the surface (just like the Dead Sea), removing all body pressure points in the process.

88/1 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-261-7943. Open TueSun 10am-10pm

Hot Spots WHERE TO GET A GREAT THAI MASSAGE

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5

HEALTH LAND

Set in a grand, Thai-style building in front of Ekkamai Soi 10, this is considered one of the best spas in Bangkok thanks to its clean facilities, well-trained staff and wallet-friendly prices.

A two-hour traditional Thai massage is also at a reasonable price, accounting for its local popularity. Unlike most street-side massage shops, its Thai massages are done in private rooms. They also have another branch at Sathorn Soi 10.

96/1 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-392-2233. Open daily 9ammidnight

MYTH

2

MYTH

WAT PHO

Located next to the Grand Palace, this is one of the oldest temples in Bangkok, home to the 43-meter-long reclining Buddha and credited as the birthplace of Thai massage. The temple massage school still runs today, meaning visitors can get some of the most authentic massage anywhere in the city. They also run short courses for anyone who’d like to learn for themselves.

Sanam Chai Rd., 02-255-4771. Open daily 8am-6pm

THE HIVE SPA

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THE HIVE SPA

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This petite but elegant spa may look European with its tastefully neutral rugs, roll-back chairs and Barbara Barry color scheme, but the treatments focus squarely on Thai foot massage and oil-free head-and-shoulder massage. Order tea, juice or freshly ground coffee from the cafe upstairs and enjoy your pampering session alongside members of the adjoining co-working facility. Afterwards, head up to the rooftop for a light salad or bottle of beer.

1/F, The Hive, 46/9 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-6626062. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm

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OASIS SPA

Its massages are heavily influenced by the Wat Pho school—credited as the birthplace of Thai massage—and are performed using their own blend of essential oils. The modern-rustic decor could come straight from a five-star hotel, but the prices are much more down-to-earth, while the main treatment room is arranged in the traditional, Thai-style communal format. There’s also a delightful alfresco bar, a boutique selling Thai-made textiles, and a private fortune-telling service.

Set in a stylish compound, this spa’s cool white exterior gives way to 15 treatment rooms decorated in a Thai Lanna style. The King of Oasis is best suited to men and features a two-hour hot Thai herbal muscle compress and a hot oil massage. Ladies can opt for the two-hour Queen of Oasis, which blends Swedish and aromatherapy massages. They also have other a la carte and package treatments for hair, body and face.

28/3 Soi Ruam Rudi, 02-651-5600-1. Open daily noon-midnight. BTS Phloen Chit

64 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-262-2122. Open daily 10am-10pm

Training Ground Located in a 1,200-sq-meter warehouse, this training facility is dubbed the biggest Crossfit gym in Asia. The gym boasts strong coaching staff and world-class equipment that caters to members and visitors of all levels, such as Olympic-lifting platforms, pullup bars, bumper plates and Concept-2 rowers. Apart from the fitness facilities, the gym also houses a cafe serving fresh coffee and protein shakes, clean showers and lounge areas.

36/2 Sukhumvit Soi 69, 094-479-6988. Open Mon-Fri 7am-9pm; Sat-Sun 9am-3pm. BTS Phra Khanong

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BANGKOK

SHOPS+SERVICES NEW

ZETTINO

The passport wallets in warm shades of leather and suede say well-heeled, creative traveler, while the messenger bags and cross-body briefcases make for perfectly constructed casual work-wear. Though the look and feel of everything in this cool men’s leatherware store might speak of Italy, it is in fact all Thai, which means prices that belie the quality of the products. You’ll also find a rather stylish women’s handbag in store, available in brown or vanilla.

Mahatun Plaza, 888 Phloen Chit Rd., 088-9505564. BTS Phloen Chit.

Hot Spots

1

BANGKOK’S BEST MARKETS

GREEN VINTAGE NIGHT MARKET

GREEN VINTAGE NIGHT MARKET

3

PAK KLONG TALAD

At Bangkok’s largest flower market, flowers from around Thailand (and the world) arrive before being distributed to hotels, restaurants and small retailers. you’ll find everything from local jasmine to imported red roses. The market is open 24 hours with different atmospheres during day and night. The liveliest period is perhaps from midnight4am, when the day’s batch of fresh flowers start to arrive, and the authentic trading action is in place.

From Memorial Bridge to Khlong Lord, Chak Phet Rd. Open daily 6-6am

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WANG LANG MARKET

This daily market runs along the river on the lesser visited Thonburi side, next to Siriraj Hospital, and is filled with locals of all ages every day. Stalls sell everything from food to toys, but the majority of the buzz centers on secondhand clothes for men and women—all at incredibly low prices. Most visitors reach the market by boat from Sathron Pier or Prachan Pier.

Siriraj Pier, Wang Lang Rd. Open daily 10am-6pm

This vintage market is home to small stalls selling all sorts of retro bric-a-brac, from antique toys and vinyl to secondhand clothes and cameras. There are also plenty of vintage-inspired bars and cafes. To reach it, take the BTS to Udomsuk and then take a taxi. Don’t be put off if all you see on arrival is plastic junk—the best finds are at the back of the marekt.

Sri Nakarin Soi 51, 081-827-5885. Open Thu-Sun 5pm-1am

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Just a stone’s throw from Chatuchak Weekend Market, this impressively funky space blends a low-key selection of fashionable clothing stalls and rows of industrial-slash-retro drinking parlors. Expect down-to-earth crowd rummaging through keepsakes such as fashion items, antiques and home decor. For ‘80s and ‘90s kids, there are lots of old-school toys like Tamagotchi and Nintendo devices.

3 Kamphaeng Phet Rd., 092-461-5951. Open ThuSun 5pm-midnight

5

TALAD ROD FAI

CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET

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CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET

Chatuchak weekend market can be a daunting shopping experience. The sprawling web of 15,000 stalls is one of the world’s largest markets, spread over 70-rai plot of land. You’ll find anything from food, furniture, books, plants, clothes, antiques to puppies and exotic pets. Section 3, just outside the Kamphaeng Phet MRT station, is the most design-forward part of the market, home to both established and up-and-coming Thai artists.

Next to Chatuchak Park, Kamphaeng Phet Rd. MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 9am-6pm

THE EMQUARTIER This new shopping mall is part of a B20 billion restyling of the Phrom Phong area as EmDistrict, a development of premium hotels, offices, residences and entertainment facilities. The result is packed with high-end boutiques including flagship stores from MCM, Jimmy Choo, Valentino, Sephora and A Bathing Ape, plus cult Asian brands Stylenanda (Korea) and Beams (Japan). As a bonus, the striking development also features a 40-meter-high man-made waterfall and plenty of green space.

The EmDistrict, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am-10pm.

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GUIDE

ATTRACTIONS ESCAPE ROOM This venue takes its inspiration from a Japanese online game, where you must work your way out of confined spaces ranging from a haunted hotel room to a Pharaoh’s tomb or a slaughterhouse. Having started in Malaysia, Escape Room International now has 16 branches around the world. You’re allowed 2-6 players per game and can ask for a clue twice over the course of your 45-minute game. The six rooms are rated from 3-5 stars in terms of difficulty, and each has a different theme and story.

Room 3-4, 7/F, MBK Center, Phaya Thai Rd., 02611-4994. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS National Stadium

Hot Spots THINGS TO DO IN THE CITY

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EMBASSY CINEPLEX

Y SPOTLIGHT

Equipped with state-of-the-art screens and sound systems, jumbo-sized seats and private mini fridges, this cinema offers one of the most extravagant movie-watching expereinces in the world.

The cinema contains a total of five theaters with seats that range from cocoon-style first-class plane pods to daybeds and giant sofas. Be sure to check the official website for tickets and showtimes.

6/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605999. BTS Phloen Chit

RAJADAMNERN BOXING STADIUM

3

RAJADAMNERN BOXING STADIUM

Thailand’s most famous Muay Thai stadium, dating back to 1941, is the definitive place to witness genuine, championship Thai boxing bouts.

The beautiful art deco building holds matches for both amateurs and professionals three days a week, and is as popular with Thais as tourists. Foreigners are seated ringside, while the outer seats are occupied by hard-gambling locals­—as much of a spectacle as the fighting.

SEA LIFE

2

SEA LIFE

Tucked in the basement of Siam Paragon, Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium is home to over 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. The aquarium also offers family-friendly interactive activities such as diving with the sharks, 5D cinema experiences, creature feeding, back-of-house visits and even real ocean walks in wetsuits. Be sure to check activity times prior to your visit. We also recommend making advanced reservations, as there are limited spots for each activity per day.

B1-B2/F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-687-2000.

Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Siam

1 Rajadamnern Ave, Pom Prap Sattru Pai, 02-281-4205.

Open Sun-Mon 6:30-11pm; Wed-Thu 3-11pm

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MADAME TUSSAUDS

The famous wax-work museum features a star-studded lineup of incredibly life-like movie stars, politicians and sports figures drawn from all over the world. As well as the biggest stars from Hollywood like Tom Cruise, Brad Pitt and Nicole Kidman, you’ll find a scattering of local legends, too. The Bangkok branch also features local and regional public figures such as forensic pathologist Dr. Pornthip Rojanasunan, actor Tony Jaa and TV personality Anne Thongprasom.

6/F, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-0060.

Open daily 10am-8:30pm. BTS Siam

Suan Pakkad Opened to the public in 1952 by its former royal residents, this complex of eight Thaistyle houses was Thailand’s first public museum. It showcases sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period that belonged to Prince and Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga, as well as artifacts from the collection of King Chulalongkorn’s son.

352-354 Sri Ayutthaya Rd., 02-246-1775-6 ext. 229

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ART+ ATTRACTIONS

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YENAKART VILLA

One of Bangkok's most striking private galleries: a modernist-influenced, multi-purpose space that hosts monthly exhibitions from both local and visiting international artists. The building's soaring ceilings, expansive glass and crisp white facade are as beautiful as the artwork. Since opening, it's become something of a meeting point for artists, critics and collectors thanks to regular private events, but the rest of us can visit too—if we make an appointment.

69 Soi Prasat Suk, Yen Akat Rd., 02-235-9800. www.fb.com/yenakartvilla

Hot Spots TOP EXHIBITIONS THIS MONTH

3

THE DIFFERS: EMOTIONAL CONTRAST

Six local artists (Cher, P7, Charcoal, Kult, Mike Them and Nev3r) of different styles ranging from graffiti to black and white pencil sketches, exhibit their works that are inspired by emotions at this cozy coffee shop-slash gallery space.

Through Jan 23. U Baan, 204 Soi Chinda Tawin, Si Phraya Rd., 088-088-5140. Open Mon, Wed-Thu, Sun 12-10pm, Fri-Sat 10-11pm. MRT Samyan BEAUTIFUL MYTH

1

BEAUTIFUL MYTH

Contemporary artist Jamon Nimnark presents oil paintings that depict the role of women in modern society, influenced by the Renaissance period.

Through Jan 10. S.A.C. Subhashok, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-0299. Open Tue-Sat 10am-5:30pm, Sun noon-6pm

2

4

5

D’UNBREAKABLE TEAPOTS

Thai ceramic artist Surojana Sethabutra makes some of the most extraordinary pottery pieces in the country. This collection takes inspiration from the way moonlight changes throughout the evening.

Through Jan 16. Bangkok University Gallery, 2-4/F, Bangkok University International College Building 7, 119 Rama 4 Rd., 02-350-3626. Open Tue-Sat 10am-7pm

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#NRCSSM

Also known as ‘Beejoir’, artist Chris Bowden showcases a range of multi-disciplinary pieces based on the culture of narcissism and its relationship with social media in the digital age. Expect to see works consisting of juxtaposed imagery with allusions to Greek Mythology, iconic individuals and superbrands.

Through Feb 7. Bangkok City City Gallery, 13/3 Sathorn Soi 1, 083-087-2725. Open daily 2pm-8pm.

MRT Lumphini

THE MAKING OF GOLDEN TEARDROP

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC)

Internationally-renowned artist Arin Rungjang showcases over 5,000 small brass sculptures depicting the imperfection of history in the form of thong yod, an ancient Thai dessert that is shaped like a teardrop, alongside a 30-minute film documentary outlining the artist’s own research.

Through Mar 22. Jim Thompson House, 6 Soi Kasemsan Soi 2, 02-216-7368. Open daily 9am-5pm.

BTS National Stadium #NRCSSM

Set in the bustling Pratumwan area just across the road from Siam Square and MBK, this public art center has become a popular hot-spot for the people of Bangkok. Aside from the contemporary art exhibitions, BACC also contains small, design-centric stores, ranging from cafes and restaurants to book shops. The top floor also boasts a movie theater, complete with a decent-sized stage for live performances.

939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630-8. Open Tue-Sun 10am9pm. BTS National Stadium.

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

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!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumphini Park

MRT

5 Khao San Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

!5 Siam Paragon

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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

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Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service.

Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price.

There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS­ Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines.

Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130.

The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40.

There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak.

Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS­ While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 JANUARY 2016 I W HER E THA ILA N D 33

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

1

7

!3

!6

8

!9

1 Catching a long-tail boat upriver to Baan Silapin, the century-old wooden house where Thai puppet shows are performed daily. See page 7

7 Making an appointment to visit Yenakart Villa, a new multi-purpose art space in the Sathorn area. See page 31.

!2 Getting pampered at Health Land, which offers traditional-style massages in one of city’s most hip areas.

See page 29.

!7 Tasting the sophisticated Thai comfort dishes and potent cocktails in a 100-year-old house painted pink at Namsaah Bottling Trust. See page 12.

2 Sipping super strong cocktails with a bowl of rich Northern curry at Soul Food Mahanakorn, before ending your meal on a sweet note with their delicious durian-flavored ice cream.

See page 11.

8 Admiring the stunning pieces of Buddhist art displayed in the National Museum’s newly-renovated front hall.

See page 20.

!3 Dining on the inventive, fivecourse tasting menu at Le Du, one of our favorite kitchens in town. See page 25.

!8 Exploring scaled-down versions of Thailand’s most important buildings and sculptures at the outdoor museum, Ancient City. See page 8.

9 Tasting authentic Thai dishes rich with spices and herbs at the beautifully tranquil Bo.lan restaurant. See page 25.

!4 Enjoying the beautiful grounds of the Grand Palace, a magnificent ancient complex housing the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred Buddha image. See page 20.

!9 Sipping on a ya dong cocktail while listening to traditional Thai music at Tep Bar. See page 10.

3 Unwinding from a long day of retail at EmQuartier’s Water Garden. See page 28.

!0 Taking a bicycle trip around the

@0 Getting a tension-relieving Thai massage at the spiritual home of

4 Hanging out with the city’s coolest floating markets, lush plantations and !5 Savoring the authentic royal Thai the art, Wat Pho, also home to the locals and expats at Smalls, a laidback cocktail lounge set in a corner shop-house. See page 26.

crumbling temples of Bang Krachao, a huge area of undeveloped forest on the fringe of Central Bangkok. See page 6.

5 Spending an evening at Asiatique, the giant riverside development that’s home to shops, restaurants, bars and cultural performances. See page 30.

6 Grabbing a beer and shopping for vintage bargains at the Rod Fai Night Market. See page 28.

cuisine at Blue Elephant, a fine-dining institution in a beautifully restored house. See page 25.

46-meter-long reclining Buddha. See page 20.

@1 Leaning back on one of the spa!6 Browsing through some of cious lounge chairs with a warm tub

!1 Basking by the river with a cold Chatuchak Weekend Market’s many of popcorn at Embassy Cineplex, one Thai iced tea and enjoying the slow life on Koh Kret, a formerly isolated island that has been settled by Mon inhabitants. See page 7.

stalls for vintage bric-a-brac early Sunday morning before the crowd shows up. See page 28.

of the best world-class VIP cinemas in the city. See page 30.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

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CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

34 W H E R E T H AILAND I J A NUA RY 2 0 1 6

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LOOK OUT FOR A COPY OF

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