Where® Thailand April 2016 by Where Thailand

Thailand

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APRIL 2016 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

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SPLASHING OUT

Where to celebrate Songkran in Bangkok

The capital’s rising culinary stars Exploring the Old Town

LES CLEFS D’OR THAIL AND

THE PREFERRED PUBLICATION OF YOUR HOTEL CONCIERGE

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Anatasia Therapy Massage Indulge yourself after a long day at work with our specialist massage therapy

Try our new variety of services Traditional Thai Massage

700 THB/ 2 Hrs.

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1200 THB/ 2 Hrs.

Exotic Oil Massage

1000 THB / 2 Hrs.

Organic Body Scrub

1200 THB/ 2 Hrs.

Foot Massage Therapy

700 THB/ 1 Hr.

Aromatherapy Body Massage 1200THB/ 2Hrs. Milk Oil Massage

1200 THB/ 2 Hrs.

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261/31 Soi Sukhumvit 22 Klong-Toey Bangkok 10110 (Opposite Marvel Hotel Bangkok)

Nearest BTS: Asoke Station

Tel.02-261-7270 Mobile. 089-823-8084

Local guides. Worldwide.

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CONTENTS where

l THAILAND l APRIL 2016

The Guide

SONGKRAN 101

BANGKOK

All you need to know about celebrating the Thai New Year in Bangkok.

23 DINING Our favorite spots for a Thai seafood feast, plus where to get the best pizza in town.

26 NIGHTLIFE Bangkok's hidden cocktail lounges serving drinks too good to miss.

28 SHOPS+SERVICES Where to pick up beautiful Thai designer gifts.

29 HEALTH+WELLNESS

DINING

Indulge in hours of Thai-style pampering at these leading local spas.

10 UNDER THE RADAR How Bangkok's top up-and-coming restaurants stack up against the best in the region.

Head out of town for 18 holes at one of Bangkok's best country clubs.

31 ART

EXPLORING

30 ATTRACTIONS

This month's must-visit exhibitions and galleries.

18 PHLOEN CHIT Discover the city's most upscale district for luxury shopping and dining.

32 NAVIGATE Essential tips on getting around.

20 OLD TOWN Walk your way around Rattanakosin, where ancient Thai tradition meets with laid-back bars and incredible street eats.

ALSO INSIDE 4

HOT DATES

34 21 THINGS WE LOVE Where Thailand is proud to be an associated publication of the Thailand Chapter of Les Clefs d'Or (the International Concierge Association).

Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon

Where Designer Wariya Whangwaewklang

Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grégoire Glachant

Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Lily Kittisrikangwan, Natcha Saguankiattichai, Bonnie Sananvatananont

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Designer Panita Thiraphapong

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Distribution Manager Suda Angsuputiphant

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com

MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, Room A, 100 North Sathorn Rd. Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

www.wherethailand.com

Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

@where_thailand

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HOT DATES

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THROUGH APR 10

PANDA-MONIUM

You’ll find 1,600 adorable pandas sitting on the lawns of this mall as part of a global art project that aims to raise awareness for panda conservation, organized by French artist Paulo Grangeon and WWF Thailand. Each papier mache figurine in 1600 Pandas is made out of recycled materials and eco-friendly paint, and has been built to represent the shockingly low number of pandas currently left in the wild: 1,600. Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1197777. BTS Phloen Chit.

APR 5

APR 7-10

APR 13-15

EVERY WEEKEND

Tom Jones, the award-winning Welsh pop singer with 36 UK Top 40 hits including “Sex Bomb,” “It’s Not Unusual” and “She’s a Lady,” returns to Bangkok for his third concert in Thailand.

Broadway’s biggest-selling magic show, The Illusionists, features seven of the world’s best illusionists in a series of logic-defying performances which combine dance, comedy and world-class props that are bound to leave you spellbound.

Thailand shuts down this month for the massive three-day Songkran New Year celebration that’s often referred to as the world’s largest water fight. Alongside it, you can also witness the more traditional side of things, where locals bathe Buddha images, welcome the Goddess of Songkran and spend quality time with family to ring in the New Year. Flip to page 6 to find out more.

Alongside the regular Rodfai and Chatuchak markets, The Glass by Artbox is probably the most visited outdoor market in the city. Expect huge amounts of stalls selling food, clothes, accessories, home decor and unique handmade items—a guaranteed excellent evening stroll.

SEX BOMB

Tickets are B2,500-4,500 at ThaiImpact Arena ticketmajor.com. Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE

Tickets are B1,500-5,500 from Thaiticketmajor.com . Royal Paragon Hall, 5/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02610-8023. BTS Siam

MAKE A SPLASH

OUT OF THE BOX

EmDistrict, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-2691000. BTS Phrom Phong

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Flight of

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HOLIDAY SPECIAL

BATHING RITES

SONGKRAN 101

Your complete guide to Songkran (Apr 13-15), the biggest, wettest and definitely most fun festival in Thailand.

TRADITIONAL FESTIVITIES RIVERSIDE AND OLD TOWN “Traditional” and “Songkran in Bangkok” don’t really sit well together, as the festival has become an excuse for an all-out three-day water war, but this year the Tourism Authority of Thailand is pushing to bring back the more sedate side of Songkran. Aside from offering alms to monks and bathing sacred Buddha images at Sanam Luang and Nagaraphirom Park near The Grand Palace, there will also be cultural activities taking place across the central stretch of the Chao Phraya River under the name Water Festival 2016. Temples including Wat Arun, Wat Prayoon and Wat Kalayanamitr will each have their own activities, along with riverside shopping promenades Tha Maharaj, Yodpiman Riverwalk and Asiatique the Riverfront. What to expect? Local food, traditional games, Thai dance performances and a far more considered approach to water splashing than you’ll find on the mean streets of Silom and Khao San. There’ll also be free water transportation running between each of the seven venues. For more information visit tourismthailand.org. SONGKRAN

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WATER WARS KHAO SAN ROAD The entire length of this backpacker haven turns into an all-day water-fight zone (10am-10pm) for the duration of the festival, packed with huge crowds of teenagers and international backpackers. Being one of the city’s main centers for nightlife, expect plenty of alcohol served from the bars lining the street as well as music from live DJs and lots of dancing.

SILOM SONGKRAN

SONGKRAN

PARADING A BUDDHA IMAGE

The heart of the central business district, stretching from Sala Daeng to Narathiwat intersections (MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng), transforms into what is likely the largest and wildest crowd celebrating Songkran. Starting from 2pm until late, the street gets very busy with university students, young adults and the city’s sizeable LGBT population taking part in the massive water-fight. For those less inclined to get wet, the view of the crowd from the overarching BTS stations can serve as quite a spectacle.

TRADITIONAL BATHING RITE

KHAO SAN ROAD

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HOLIDAY SPECIAL

G CIRCUIT SK10

S20 FESTIVAL

AFTER DARK RCA One of the epicenters of the city’s clubbing scene, this is where the young party crowd tends to go after a day of splashing around town. With separate parties taking place at every club from around 9pm until late, expect the water splashing to continue in and around the clubs, which include Onyx, Route 66, Ztudio Live Hall, Live RCA and more. More info: Bangkok Tourist Information Center, 02-225-7621, www.bangkoktourist.com

W BANGKOK The chic hotel’s annual festive pool party, this year dubbed “Songkran Splash Away 2016,” is always one of the best in town. They collaborate with local party collective the Kolour Krew to bring a lively, cool crowd to the hotel’s “Wet Deck,” where you’ll find live electronic music and specially crafted cocktails sponsored by Ciroc Vodka. Tickets are B700-900 from www.wbangkok.com. April 13, 1pm-8pm. W Hotel Bangkok, 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-3444000. BTS Chong Nonsi

W BANGKOK

G CIRCUIT SK10 This annual gay party takes place over three days (Apr 15-17) and stretches across multiple venues in town, including huge opening and closing parties at CentralWorld and pool parties at Sofitel So and Double Tree by Hilton. Be prepared for lots of topless locals and tourists dancing the night away. Tickets are available at www.gcircuit.com

S20 FESTIVAL Get a dose of EDM at the three-day Pepsi S20 Songkran’s Music Festival, taking place this year from Apr 11-14 with the Dutch progressive house DJ Nicky Romero headlining the night as his official debut in Bangkok. He’ll be joined by other big names including Afrojack, Deorro, Makj, Quintino and many more. Tickets are available at s20festival.com. Show Oasis Arena, Rama 9 Rd.

NEED TO KNOW • Even though the government has requested that people keep their water splashing to dedicated zones, just be aware that you are seen as fair game anywhere and anytime from Apr 13-17 with tourists a popular target. The only way to guarantee staying dry is to stay indoors. • The smearing of powdered white chalk, traditionally used by monks in rituals, on strangers was common in the past but men should refrain from doing so to women they don’t know. • Spraying water inside shopping malls and on public transport is prohibited. • Get more information about Songkran and updated events across Thailand at www. tourismthailand.org or call 1672.

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CONCIERGE PICKS Which hot-season dishes should every visitor be sure to try?

Kasem Phanprasith Centara Grand Central Ladprao

Surachai Thong-On Banyan Tree

Boonme Tangwong Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers

We recommend our visitors to try khao chae. You can get it at most Thai restaurants around the city, including Suan Bua here at our hotel. It’s a traditional organic Thai rice dish served in a cold water soup, accompanied with stuffed shallots, peppers, shredded sweet pork and shrimp balls as side dishes—very refreshing for this time of the year!

Coconut ice cream and coconut water are perfect for the April heat. Both are sold from street vendors for very cheap prices. Don’t miss drinking coconut water straight from the fruit—so much more delicious than from a can or carton. For coconut ice cream, add sticky rice, nuts, jackfruit or whatever you prefer. Trust me, you won’t be able to find this in other countries.

In my opinion, all Thai food is great no matter what season it is—what really counts is the setting. Make your dining experience more enjoyable in the April heat by choosing a breezy riverside terrace, which sets the perfect ambience for a romantic meal.

LUXX

G CIRCUIT

RCA

SILOM +662 635 8800 reservations@staywithluxx.com LANGSUAN +662 684 1111 reservationsxl@staywithluxx.com

G CIRCUIT SK10

www.staywithluxx.com

stay with LUXX in bangkok

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DINING

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UNDER THE RADAR

The Bangkok restaurants turning out incredible Thai food which the rest of the world has yet to pick up on.

BAAN

80/20

our Bangkok dining institutions just got named some of the best on the continent at Asia's 50 Best Restaurants 2016 (see page 12). One of the city’s restaurants, Gaggan, even came number 1 for the second year in a row. It all points to a fact which people living in Bangkok have known for a long time: that this city is one of the top culinary players in the region not just for its incredible street food, but also for its amazing, inventive restaurants which are trying new things and pushing Thai food down unchartered directions. Here are our favorite spots in town which didn’t make the list.

BAAN

80/20

BAA GA DIN

BAAN

Drawing on skills honed at Toronto’s Creme Brasserie, co-owner/chef Napol Jantraget creates food that’s 80-percent local, 20-percent creative tweaks in dishes like the flavorful garden salad (yu choy and chayote shoots, bougainvillea leaves and more with cream-based dry shrimp lime dressing) or the 80/20 Caesar salad (sauteed brussel sprouts, melting pork belly confit and dressing salted by shrimp paste). Desserts by Saki Hoshino (try the warm molten chocolate with chili ice cream) and cocktails are no after-thought either.

One of a vanguard of restaurants that seek to tweak tried-and-tested street food favorites, Baa Ga Din presents a modern twist to roadside specialties like chicken wings and oyster omelets. The brainchild of Thitid Tassanakajorn of acclaimed fine-dining eatery Le Du, the restaurant also serves an inventive cocktail menu in a friendly, bistro atmosphere that lures large groups who want the casual experience of Thai street food without all the hassle.

Specializing in “homestyle” dishes utilizing organic rice and veggies and free-range meat and eggs, Baan—which means “home” in Thai—is another of the growing constellation of restaurants in chef Thitid Tassanakajorn’s dining empire, and features recipes cooked up by his very own family. Standout dishes include a kai palo-tom sap hybrid (Chinese-style five-spiced egg soup flavored with Isaan-style spices) and deep-fried sun-dried pork.

Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-662-3813. Open Wed-Sun 6-11pm; Mon 6-11pm

139/5 Wireless Rd. (between Japanese Embassy and Lumphini Police Station), 02-655-8995, 081-4324050. Open Wed-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm; Mon 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. MRT Lumphini

1052-1054 Charoenkrung Rd., 095-843-2056. Open Wed-Sun 5pm-midnight; Mon 5pm-midnight

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Taste the river life

The urbanistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; new and trendiest destination by the Chao Phraya river is the center for both tourists and locals to explore the arts and cultural heritage while indulging in the relaxing riverside atmosphere. Here, you can find riverside eateries, as well as art & culture market in the historical charm of the old town Bangkok. You can also take the boat ride from Tha Maharaj pier to experience the local life along the Chao Phraya and into the various canals.

1/11 Trok Mahathat, Maharaj Road, Phranakorn District, Bangkok 10200, Tel. 02-024-1393, Fax. 02-024-1394

www.thamaharaj.com

info@thamaharaj.com

Tha Maharaj

Thamaharaj

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DINING RISING STARS Discover the restaurants making it big around the region. Early reservations essential!

NAHM

Eat Me Ranked 25th among Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants last year, this romantic and minimalist restaurant doubles as an art gallery. But the creativity isn’t just on the walls, as chef Tim Butler and team precisely execute bold and memorable dishes like spicy wagyu tartare featuring fried quail egg and a Northeastern Thai flare. Round out your meal at Eat Me with an equally surprising dessert like the goat cheese ice cream with red wine poached pear and honeycomb. ERR

1/6 Soi Phiphat 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. Open daily 3pm-1am. BTS Sala Daeng

Issaya Siamese Club

LE DU

ERR The chef duo behind Bangkok’s Thai fine dining institution Bo.lan have brought their expertise to a new genre of modern, casual Thai cuisine. Their latest project, Err, is set in a retro shophouse just down the street from Wat Pho, where they’ve trained their chefs to whip up rejuvenated versions of Thailand’s best drinking snacks. The menu comprises dishes intended to be shared among friends alongside cocktails. 394/35 Maharaj Rd., 02-622-2291. Open Tue-Sun 11am-9pm

LE DU Once in a while, a Thai restaurant comes around that manages to fuse classic Thai food with modern Western techniques in a manner that doesn’t feel heavy-handed or forced. Such is the case with Le Du, headed by Chef Thitid Tassanakajorn, a Thai chef with a degree from the Culinary In-

PASTE

stitute of America and stints at 11 Madison Park and The Modern. The menu changes seasonally and the wine list is sourced solely from organic or boutique outfits 399/3 Silom Soi 7, 092-919-9969. Open Mon-Sat 6-11pm. BTS Chong Nonsi.

PASTE Two of Bangkok’s most highly-regarded modern chefs, Bongkoch Satongun and Jason Bailey, have joined forces with the aristocratic Sanitwong family, descendants of Rama II, to open this second branch of Paste. Its specialty is recipes from the Sanitwongs’ ancient cook books, with a particular emphasis on curries. Try the gang gai gorlae (Southern Thai-Muslim curry with grilled chicken), made using sous-vide, coconut-husksmoked grilled chicken 3/F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-6561003. Open daily noon-2pm, 6:30pm-midnight. BTS Chit Lom.

Issaya is a refreshingly vibrant modern Thai restaurant set in a beautifully restored house, whose upstairs includes exquisite private rooms. Make your way down the long driveway and tyhrough the charming garden before finding a seat among the bright blue walls and artifacts emanating Thai heritage. All-star chef Ian Kittichai’s meticulously presented menu brings dishes which are unique, yet simultaneously truly Thai. The rich massaman curry prepared with tender lamb shank is not to be missed. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chuaphloeng Rd., 02-6729040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-1am. MRT Khlong Toei

Gaggan Chef Gaggan Anand’s name went around the world when his eponymous restaurant Asia’s 50 Best awarded it No. 1 restaurant in 2015 and they repeated the feat this year. Each night, in a classically restored house on Langsuan Road, the chef’s team offers a tasting menu where diners’ expectations of Indian food are first thrown overboard and then blown out of the water by Gaggan’s El Bulliinfluenced creativity. 68/1 Lang Suan Rd., 02-652-1700. Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Ratchadamri

Nahm Still considered the “must-go” destination of every aspiring foodie in Bangkok, Nahm—helmed by Australian chef David Thompson—does Thai food made with the very finest ingredients using the most traditional methods. The most popular offerings at Nahm are the set menus, which usually feature dishes like blue swimmer crab curry with fermented rice noodles and the salad of fresh river prawns and Asian pennywort served in communal, Thai-style fashion. Metropolitan by COMO, 27 Sathorn Rd., 02-6253388. Open daily 7-10:30pm; Mon-Fri noon-2pm. MRT Lumphini

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SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM One of Bangkok’s favorite Thai restaurants has built its reputation on delicate traditional plates bursting with strong, authentic flavors. The casual decor plays with the vivid yellow of Supanniga flowers, while other references to Eastern Thai culture abound. Dont miss the pu jah (blended crabmeat and pork, seasoned with pepper and steamed inside crab shell), panang nuea lai (beef chunk in red curry) and moo cha muang (stewed pork with herbs and cha muang leaves).

KHAO

28 Sathorn Soi 10, 02-635-0349. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi. 160/11 Soi 55 (Thonglor) Sukhumvit, 02 714 7508. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm

KHAO One of the few Thai “chef’s table” restaurants out there, Khao is the brainchild of Vichit Mukura, the former head Thai chef at Mandarin Oriental hotel. His take on the local cuisine features the finest imported produce incorporated into classic Thai dishes, like a spicy salad of premium Matsusaka beef. Space is limited, with room for only small groups of 4-12 people a night. Khao shares space with Japanese restaurant Yuutaro.

SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

THE LOCAL

64 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 098-829-8878. Open daily noon-2pm, 6:30-11pm

THE LOCAL A labor of love that aims to preserve Thailand’s culinary heritage, The Local offers authentic Thai dishes in a century-old house. Hard-to-find specialties such as gang run juan (beef in spicy herbal soup) and pla paak nam (seafood in red curry paste) hail from old Siamese recipes, handed down over several generations and utilizing native ingredients sourced from every region of the country. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:3011pm

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where + SONGKRAN SPECIAL

Five amazing travel plans to experience Thailand’s New Year at its best.

cided to do a Louis Vuitton fashion shoot there. In fact, summer is the best time to visit this super quaint land of three cultures (Thai, Mon and Burmese). Its main draw is the former Wang Wiwekaram Temple, which has been submerged by the waters of Khao Laem Dam for the most part of the year since 1984—hence the name: Wat Tai Nam Muang Badan (underwater temple). Mar-May is considered drought season, when the water level drops, and is the only time of the year visitors can actually take a boat trip and walk around ruins of the old temple. Also check out Wat Somdej, another rarely visited old temple. We recommend booking a floating guest house to make the most of your stay. Sangkhlaburi District Office, 034-595-120

4. Explore Thailand’s Old Town Heritage

SUKHOTHAI

Not every holiday break has to be about luxurious stays at high-end resorts (although we love those too). Every region in the country has its own unique cultural heritage and glorious old town quarters. Our pick: Phuket

SANGKLABURI

1. Hit the Beaches

CHIANG MAI

Our pick: Chiang Mai

Although Pattaya is on mainland Thailand, the stunning island of Koh Larn is just 15 minutes away via speedboat and makes a wonderful day trip. But that’s not the only thing that makes Pattaya a fun choice for the summer. The seaside town of Chonburi has changed a lot in recent years, turning itself into a spot full of trendy new openings that come with amazing views, like Veranda Pattaya (Na Jomthien Beach, 038-111-899) and the new branch of The Chocolate Factory (333/99 Moo 9, Nong Preu, 092-419-6667). Need to cool down? You’ve got fine imported Sri Lankan tea in the Tea Factory at A’ La Campagne (21/2 moo1, Sattahip, 061-441-5181), as well as Skoop Beach Cafe (Na Jomtien Soi 4, 091-725-4569), for gelato.

The North of Thailand is as notoriously hot as Bangkok at this time of year, but we’re such big fans of the Lanna capital that we make sure we visit every year. On top of its reputation as coffee capital and slow-life centrale, Chiang Mai has more to offer beyond the hipster streets of Nimmanhaemin. There’s also a growing contemporary art community headed by the soon-to-arrive new art space Mai Iam. On top of artwork organically installed across the city, some permanent art spaces include the experimental-leaning Gallery Seescape (22/1 Nimmanhemin, 093831-9394) and Hern Gallery (Chang Khlan, 088268-3893). Grab the recently published Chiang Mai Art Map to find out about all the very best galleries in town, including the likes of Vichit Studio (17/3 Moo13 San Kamphaeng, 053-392-733), Lyla Gallery (234 Tha Phae Rd., 091-857-0618), C.A.P. Studio (Nimmanhemin 17, 087-810-8860), Documentary Arts Asia (97/3 1 4 Soi Khai Muk4, 088-138-7470) and Thapae East Art Space (88 Thapae Soi 3, 091-853-4101).

Pattaya City Call Center 1337, www.pattaya.go.th

Chiang Mai Metropolitan Office, 053-259-000

Obv’s, but who doesn’t want to get a little tan and take in the sea breeze when the weather is as good as this? Knowing the ins and outs of Bangkok’s closest seaside towns can make for incredible trips that require little planning. Our pick: Pattaya

2. Take in the Arts

And we don’t just mean a visit to the Bangkok Art and Culture Center (though it is a wonderful gallery). Thailand’s art scene is so much wider than the capital city, with some of the hottest creative happenings going down in places from Ratchaburi to Chiang Rai.

Here you’ll find the best of both worlds. Phuket Old Town’s unique Thai-Chinese heritage feels worlds away from the private beaches at painfully beautiful luxurious resorts. The island’s baba nonya culture shines brighter than ever now thanks to the new breed of “baba-chic” restaurants and cafes in old Sino-Portuguese buildings. Make sure you check out the likes of Kopitiam by Wilai (18 Thalang Rd., 083-606-776), Tu Kab Khao (8 Phangnga Road, Talat Nuea, 076608-888), Raya (48 Dibuk Rd., 076-218-155) and China Inn (20 Thalang Rd., 076-356-239). Last month also welcomed the PeranakanNitat Museum (34 Phuket Road, Talad Yai, 095-2577264), a 1907 building dedicated to the Strait of Malacca’s unique cultural heritage. TAT Phuket, 076-211-036, 076-212-213

5. Live the slow-life in Thailand’s Ancient City

There was life in Thailand long before Bangkok came along. This time of year can be perfect for checking out the ruins of ancient capitals within easy reach for a long weekend. Take the time to really explore (and Instagram) what’s left of the old and enjoy the new. Our pick: Sukhothai

Our pick: Sangklaburi

The first thing that comes to mind is the striking image of the ruins in the Sukhothai Historical Park, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the tasty Sukhothai-style noodles with the signature kai yang matoom (medium-boiled egg). But this often overlooked destination (why go when Ayutthaya is much closer?) is also home to some cool retro cafes and delightful homestays at Baan Na Ton Jhun, a small village in Sri Satchanalai. If you have more time on your hands, take the train from Hua Lamphong up to Phitsanulok on the way there.

And no, it’s not just because GQ Germany de-

TAT Sukhothai, 055-616-228-9

3. See the Unseen

There’s so much more to Thailand than Chiang Mai and Phuket. Leave the tourist trail and discover some of the true gems of this country, where cultural heritage lives large.

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APRIL 2016 | BANGKOK

PHLOEN CHIT Perhaps Bangkokâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sleekest neighborhood, Phloen Chit serves up refined restaurants, luxurious boutiques and elegant bars, all within easy BTS access (Phloen Chit Station).

CENTRAL EMBASSY

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 16 PHLOEN CHIT

20 OLD TOWN

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EXPLORING

PHLOEN CHIT cramped shop packed to the rafters with bolts of cloth. But we like to get sartorial tips from Win, his son. Make sure you have enough time for several fittings. In the same plaza you’ll also find the cool men’s leather store 3 Zettino (098-664-9516). For more high-end shopping, visit the compact but nonetheless very luxurious

GAYSORN

4 Gaysorn (02-656-1177). As well as numerous luxury international fashion labels, you’ll find Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya and Zenithorial. Pick up locally crafted gifts from Jim Thompson, or indulge at 4 Panpuri Organic Spa (L/F, Gaysorn, 02-656-1199).

NEW

RIEDEL WINE BAR & CELLAR

Riedel, Austrian maker of some of the world’s finest crystal wine glasses, has licensed its name to this wine bar equipped with a state-of-the-art wine dispenser which allows for up to 40 open bottles to be stored without oxidizing. The result is a huge list of wines to try by the glass rather than forking out for the bottle. The space oozes quality, from the gorgeously smooth, open-pore wooden tables to the wall of cool, brushed-steel wine dispensers, but we recommend heading out to the open balcony—one of the best alfresco dining spots in the area—and ordering up some of the Med-influenced tapas.

DINING This is a very international area for dining. In fact, the only cuisine that’s thin on the ground is Thai food. For respite from Central Embassy’s boutiques, pull up a blond-wood chair at 1 Siwilai Rocket Coffeebar (5/F, Central Embassy, 02-160-5836) for organic salads, freshly baked goods and artisanal coffee. The highlight has to be its delightful breakfast menu that you can enjoy with views of the British Embassy’s gardens.

4 2/F, Gaysorn, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-1133. Open daily 11am-midnight. BTS Chit Lom GALLERIES AND ATTRACTIONS For rare and beautiful publications, 1 Hardcover: The Art Book Shop (4/F, Central Embassy, 02-160-5977) is one of the high-end Central Embassy shopping mall’s hidden gems. Expect to find rare publications like Taschen’s supersized Sebastiao Salgado: Genesis, which comes with its own Tadao Ando display stand. At the back of the store is an art exhibition space called Serindia Gallery Annex. Nearby, on a leafy side-street, 2 100 Tonson (100 Soi Tonson, 02-684-1527) is located in a beautiful building designed by renowned French designer Christian

100 TONSON

Liaigre, and regularly welcomes such high-profile artists as Rirkrit Tiravanija.

bronze to stingray skin, are handcrafted by a team of skilled artisans working from Bangkok to create pieces that are both and meaningful. In the same GIANNI RISTORANTE

CENTRAL EMBASSY

SHOPPING 1 Central Embassy (1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-119-7777) dedicates eight floors to retail shops from some of the world’s most exciting fashion brands, including Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin and Jil Sander. For something more unique, check out 1 Alexander Lamont (2/F, Central Embassy, 02-160-5772), who creates beautiful decorative objects which draw on both European and Asian design. The luxurious materials, from

VUUDH

mall, 1 Vuudh (4/F, Central Embassy, 02-160-5826) is a Thai company specializing in high-end interior fragrances with an Eastern influence. Its selection of products is limited—candles, diffusers and sprays—but very elegant, much like the store itself. For a genuinely good Bangkok tailoring experience, stop by 3 Pinky Tailor (Mahatun Plaza Arcade, 02-252-9680). The patriarch, Pinky, still rules over his

Prefer Italian? !0 Gianni Ristorante (34/1 Soi Tonson, 02-252-1619), or “Gianni’s,” as it’s referred to by most, has consistently oustanding food, an elegant opera-house atmosphere and polished service. The ever-changing specials frequently knock it out of the ballpark. Sticking to fine dining, 8 Yamazato (24/F, The Okura Prestige,

YAMAZATO

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PHLOEN CHIT 02-687-9000) is one of Bangkok’s most luxurious Japanese restaurants, serving grand 6-8 course kaiseki dinners. On a more casual tip, the Mexican 9 La Monita Taqueria (Mahatun Plaza, 888/25-26 Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-9581) does hands-down the best quesadilla and fish taco in town,

Y SPOTLIGHT

HYDE & SEEK

PIZZA MASSILIA

while !1 Pizza Massilia (15/1 Soi Ruam Ruedi, Lumphini, 02-651-5091) is Bangkokians’ answer to truly authentic Reviera’style wood-fire pizza. For a truly upscale Thai dining experience, book a table at either Osha (see spotlight) or 4 Paste (3/F, Gaysorn, 02-392-4313), which specializes in heritage recipes, especially curry.

NIGHTLIFE 8 Ogu Ogu (G/F, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 02-108-2255) dubs itself a sake bar and takes no little inspiration from New York. The space is all about hanging wires, lamps, wooden partitions and some patterned chairs. The food isn’t too authentic, but make it for the 5-7pm happy hour to enjoy some fun sake tasting flights. Later in the evening, head over to Soi Ruamrudee for the chic gastro bar 6 Hyde and Seek (Athenee Residence, Soi Ruamrudee, 02-168-5152-3). As well as lovinglymade traditional pub food with a highend twist, this bar does some seriously good cocktails, made by a team of respected barmen.

Osha

The very definition of “OTT,” Osha hosts a menu of reimagined Thai dishes in a dining room crowned with a gold-leaf-coated stairwell and elaborate wallpaper depicting scenes from Thai mythology. Dishes like the Ocean & Flora salad highlight the menu’s two strong suits: premium protein and botanical flavors. Elsewhere, staples like green curry are dressed up with spherified pearls of coconut milk.

7 99 Wireless Rd., 02-256-6555. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 6pm-12am. BTS Ratchadamri. www.oshabangkok.com

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1 Central Embassy - Hardcover The Art Book Shop - Alexander Lamont - Vuudh 2 100 Tonson 3 Mahatun Plaza - Pinky Tailor - Zettino 4 Gaysorn - Panpuri Organic Spa - Riedel Wine Bar & Cellar 5 Cafe Tartine 6 Hyde and Seek 7 Osha 8 Park Ventures / Okura Hotel - Yamazato - Ogu Ogu 9 La Monita Taqueria !0 Gianni Ristorante !1 Pizza Massilia

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EXPLORING

OLD TOWN Y SPOTLIGHT

Peppina

NEW

!7 RONG LAO

Everyone visiting Bangkok has heard of backpacker central Khao San Road, but round the corner you’ll find a much cooler local scene on the hip Phra Athit Road (see box). The latest bar to join this riverside street’s laidback collection of eateries and drinking spots, Rong Lao (an old Thai word for bar) is a zero-attitude space where you can open a square bottle of Sangsom or Blend 285 whiskey and share it with your friends while listening to live acoustic music. To eat, there’s a Japanese izakaya (tavern) theme, with popular snacks like edamame, takoyaki (wheat-flour dumplings) and hiyashi wakame (seaweed salad) as well as mains like tonkatsu and chicken teriyaki.

This Bangkok pizzeria makes pies so good that they’ve been recognized by the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana—Naples’ official pizza certifying body. There are a few branches around town now, but what makes this one really special is the river views and perfect location near Bangkok’s best old town sights. The dining room is a cool mix of bare concrete and chunky wooden tables, while all the pizza-making action takes place in full view of the diners. Don’t miss the superb grilled meat sharing plates, either.

Tha Maharaj, 11/1, Maharaj Rd., 02-866-3163-4

Phra Arthit, Phra Sumen Rd., 083-544-6364

he Rattanakosin area, commonly called the Old Town, is tucked inside a bend in the Chao Phraya River and encompasses some of the city’s most revered cultural landmarks. But beyond the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, there are also some excellent restaurants and beautiful riverside bars.

MORNING Start your walking tour from Prachan Pier (Tha Prachan in Thai), near which you’ll find the historic 2 National Museum (4 Na Phra Tha Rd., 02-2241333), home to some of the most impressive art and antiques in the country. In addition to historic pieces from the Dvaravati Srivijaya to Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods, the museum features regional art like Indian Gandhara, Chinese weapons, ancient ceramics and musical instruments. At the other end of Sanam Luang is the most-visited landmark in Thailand, 3 Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew (open daily 8:30am-4:30pm. Entry B350). Construction on the royal residence of the first king of the current Chakri Dynasty began in 1762, and the complex is split into three zones: the Outer Court, where

you’ll find Wat Phra Kaew and the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred Buddha image; the Middle Court, which contains the Dusit Maha Prasat and Chakri Maha Prasat buildings; and the Inner Court, former residence of the royal consorts. Be sure to get there early before the day is too hot. Beware, touts will tell you the palace is closed for a national holiday. Ignore them! On the same

QUEEN SIRIKIT MUSEUM OF TEXTILES

grounds, you’ll also find the 4 Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles (Na Phra Lan Rd., Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, 02-255-9430), which tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand. Highlights include the queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading international designers.

What was once a row of shop-houses and several other old buildings is now a breathable green space with views of the Grand Palace. Relax among trees and lotus ponds and enjoy a great view of the Temple of Dawn before you continue on your walk. Next, pay your respects to the 43-meterlong reclining Buddha at 6 Wat Pho (open daily 8am-5pm), whose threemeter-tall feet are inlaid with mother of pearl displaying 108 Buddhist symbols. In a beautiful colonial-style building nearby, 7 Museum Siam (4 Sanam Chai Rd., 02-225-2777.

AFTERNOON GRAND PALACE AND WAT PHRA KAEW

Behind the Grand Palace, on the bank of the Chao Phraya River, is the twoyear-old 5 Nagaraphirom Park.

WAT PHO

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EXPLORING

OLD TOWN Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm) is one of Bangkok’s best museums, portraying the history of Thai communities through multimedia installations and interactive exhibitions. The venue also hosts an interesting lineup of rotating exhibitions.

PHRA ATHIT HOTSPOTS Some of the Old Town’s best venues line this charming riverside road.

!3 Escapade The specialty here is Angus beef burgers that regularly rank among Bangkok’s best. Double your intake with a Quarter Cow (two beef patties, two slices of cheddar cheese with truffle sauce) and be sure to try the decadent smoothie cocktails.

EVENING SHEEPSHANK

112 Phra Athit Rd., 081-406-3773. Open Tue-Sun noon-midnight

!4 Sheepshank This restaurant is designed to resemble a sophisticated boat house where you can sit back and enjoy views of the river and Rama 8 Bridge while eating Spanish dishes like seafood paella with saffron (see page 7 for more information). 47 Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-5165. Tue-Thu 5:30pm-midnight; Fri-Sun 5:30pm-1am. www.sheepshankpublichouse.com

SALA RATTANAKOSIN

!5 Pipit Banglamphu Thanks to the efforts of the Banglamphu community, plans to demolish Bangkok’s first printing school, which dates back to 1924, were derailed, and the building last year reopened as the Pipit Banglamphu Museum. Registered as a place of national importance by the Fine Art Department of Thailand, the museum focuses on the culture of Bangkok’s Rattanakosin Island area, as well as the printing school’s history.

After exploring Thailand’s heritage, take a break at 8 Sala Rattanakosin (39 Soi Ta Tien, Maharaj Rd., 02-6221388) and enjoy Thai food with great views of the 9 Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun). This stylish riverside venue boasts a small number of guestrooms but half of the building is dedicated to wining and dining. There’s also a rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping cocktails. If you’re in the mood

Next to Phra Sumen Fort, Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-1850. Entry B100. Closed Mondays. www.fb.com/pipitbanglamphu ESCAPADE

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1 National Museum 2 Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew 3 Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles 4 Nagaraphirom Park 5 Wat Pho 6 Museum Siam 7 Sala Rattanakosin 8 Wat Arun 9 The Deck !0 Pak Klong Talad !1 Khao San Road !2 Escapade !3 Sheepshank !4 Pipit Banglamphu !5 Peppina !6 Rong Lao

Bamrung Mueang Rd.

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for more drinks, head to !0 The Deck (Arun Residence, 36-38 Maharaj Rd. 02-221-9158), a charming outdoor venue just a short walk from Sala Rattanakosin. Set in a five-room boutique hotel, The Deck offers a delightful atmosphere in which to enjoy another drink or two, and also has a sophisticated Thai food menu. Finish your Old Town tour with a night visit to !1 Pak Klong Talad (open 24 hours), Bangkok’s largest flower market. Flowers from not only Thailand but around the world arrive here each day to be distributed to hotels, restaurants and small retailers. You’ll find everything from local jasmine to imported red roses. Fresh batches arrive after midnight, which is when you’ll get to experience the busiest trading atmosphere. If you’ve still got some energy left, go mingle with backpackers from all over the world on the notorious !2 Khao San Road. Our top addresses there: Bombay Blues, Hippie de Bar and Fabulous Bar & Dessert Cafe.

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GETTING THERE

It’s not easy to get to the Old Town as there is no the sky train or MRT coverage, and a car journey can take up to an hour due to heavy traffic. The most convenient route is perhaps to take the sky train to BTS Saphan Taksin and catch a boat from Sathorn Pier to Pra Athit Pier.

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ThewhereGuide APRIL 2016 | BANGKOK NEW

MA MAISON

Nai Lert Park Heritage Home is a beautiful old estate in the heart of Bangkok, recently opened to the public by its aristocratic owners. On the grounds you’ll also find this charming Thai restaurant set in a sleek, modernist glass pavilion. The whole thing is very upperclass Thai ladies-who-lunch, with delicious cuisine like massaman curry and hor-mok (steamed fish curry pudding wrapped in banana leaf) served amid classic-meets-modern European-referencing decor. 4 Soi Somkid, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-655-4773. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 6-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 23 DINING 26 NIGHTLIFE

28 SHOPPING 29 HEALTH & WELLNESS

30 ATTRACTIONS 31 ART

32 NAVIGATE

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GUIDE

DINING NEW

MEATLICIOUS

Gaggan Anand, culinary whiz behind this continent’s best restaurant according to the voters of Asia’s 50 Best, went down a totally different route with this steakhouse. Forget about a wine list and head straight for the beers, because nothing else quite cuts in when eating succulent meat cooked on wood-fired ovens. Here the name says it all with a wide menu ranging from premium Japanese beef to some funkier creations like the “foie gras breakfast”—foie gras mousse served like a creme brulee alongside brioche and cherry compote. 8 Ekkamai Soi 6, 091-698-6688. Open daily 6pmmidnight. BTS Ekkamai

Y SPOTLIGHT

Hot Spots THAI SEAFOOD

LAEM CHAROEN SEAFOOD

This Eastern seafood chain has been a local favorite for over thirty years thanks to fresh fish and generous portions. Its atmosphere is straightforwardly industrial with a pop of green that isn’t too overpowering. Although the menu comes with a variety of choices, we recommend that you stick with the simplest options such as grilled cockle in spicy dipping sauce, fried rice with crabmeat and deep-fried sea bass in sweet and sour sauce.

KODANG TALAY SEAFOOD

4/F, Siam Paragon, 991/1, Rama 1 Rd., 02-6109244. BTS Siam

Set in a renovated warehouse with nautical-meets-modern-industrial decor (think heavy wooden tables and ropes hanging from the ceiling), this laid-back seafood restaurant boasts a massive outdoor seating area right by the river. Although locals tend to order the deep-fried sea bass and garoupa, the restaurant also makes good hard-to-find dishes such as the Southernstyle gaeng som kai pla dook talay (sour and spicy soup with sea catfish eggs)—perfect with an icecold beer.

Blue Elephant

Room Warehouse 7, Asiatique the Riverfront, 2194 Charoenkrung Soi 76, 092-2845610. Open daily 5pm-midnight

SAMYAN SEAFOOD

Set in a colonial-inspired building, the round tables inside this longstanding Thai-Chinese seafood joint are always bustling with large parties sharing family-style dishes. Clanking silverware, happy conversations and a few loud “cheers” provide the soundtrack to dinners of Chinese-inspired seafood. Try the pu song kradong (steamed double carapace crab), along with some non-seafood dishes such as the moo hun (grilled pork) and the yuea phai toon (steamed bamboo fibers in clear soup).

The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts. Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authentic flavors. While more modern Thai restaurants have lately grabbed most column inches, Blue Elephant is still worth a visit for both atmosphere and food. 233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Surasak

LAEM CHAROEN SEAFOOD

SAMYAN SEAFOOD

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TASTEOFTHECITY

DINING HONG KONG Recent Openings

MA MAISON

Comforting Thai dishes in a heritage setting that’s hard to top. 4 Soi Somkid Phloen Chit Rd., 02-655-4773. BTS Phloen Chit

PUNJAB GRILL

This Indian fine-dining contender boasts contemporary flair. Radisson Suites, 23/2-3 Sukhumvit Soi 13. BTS Nana

LADY BRETT X 72 COURTYARD The second branch of Lady Brett continues the brand’s barbecue focus while adding a punchy new menu of salads and starters. 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-7626

Advertise your business with us starting from B5,000

RIEDEL WINE BAR & CELLAR The Austrian wine glass maker’s swanky wine-by-the-glass bar in Gaysorn.

2/F, Gaysorn, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-6561133. BTS Chit Lom

Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Credit card payment accepted.

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GUIDE

DINING

PIZZA MASSILIA

Peppina The original branch of this rapidly expanding pizzeria aims high: it wants to be the purveyor of the most authentic Neapolitan pizza in Bangkok. As a result, a massive pizza oven dominates the warm-yet-industrial-style dining room, which boasts an open kitchen and its very own Neapolitan baker. Also popular with diners are the pasta dishes, fresh salads and excellent beef steak. Other branches:Tha Maharaj (Old Town), The Commons (Thonglor), and Sriracha. 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-119-7677. Open daily 11am3pm, 6:30-11pm

SOMBOON SEAFOOD

This hugely-successful, long-standing seafood chain dating back to 1969 has one of the most loyal followings in town and abroad—former Japanese PM Junichiro Koizumi even ate there. This new shopping mall branch makes it even easier to visitors to seek out their succulently-rich puu pad pong gari (yellow curry crab), goong ob woonsen (prawns baked with glass noodles) and steamed whole seabass with soy sauce. Be sure to call ahead for reservations, as the busy restaurant typically carries a 20-minute wait time otherwise. 5/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605965. Open daily 11am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

HIROTOMO T

BANGKOK’S BEST PIZZA

T&K SEAFOOD

This street-side Chinatown seafood joint whips up reasonably priced and reliably fresh dishes to an always-busy crowd. Expect a 20-30-minute wait if you arrive during prime dinner hours, when hungry locals and in-theknow tourists congregate in equal measure. The menu spans seafood of all sorts. Be sure to order the grilled prawns with spicy dipping sauce, tom yum goong (spicy coconut soup with shrimp) and steamed fish in lime sauce.

49-51 Soi Phadungdao Yaowarat Rd., 02-223-4519. Open Mon-Sat 4:30pm-2am SOMBOON SEAFOOD

Pizza Massilia French restaurateur Frederic Meyer (whose Issaya Siamese Club ranks as one of theb est resurants in Asia) and Italian chef Luca Apino have imported two massive, twin ovens from Italy—and a chef, Flavio Argenio, whose pizzamaking experience spans Marseille and Italy, making him an ideal fit for this “Italy with a touch of Provence” pizzeria. The baroque, powder blue dining room contrasts French antiques, global contemporary art and simple wood-fired dishes. 15/1 Soi Ruam Rudi, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-651-5091. Open daily 5pm-midnight. BTS Phloen Chit

Pizza Pala Romana The result of Pala’s Roman-style 72-hour-cured dough is a thick, bread-like crust bursting with flavor. Pala also does a mean selection of pastas and specials that seem to never repeat themselves, serving up rare ingredients for the Bolognese-weary, such as gnocchi with pumpkin or blue cheese and walnut sauce. As a place to simply grab a slice to go, it remains one of our top picks in town—just don’t expect a finedining ambiance. Room #1, MRT Sukhumvit Station, Asoke, 02-2591228-9. Open Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun 11ammidnight. BTS Asok

Sfizio Like its neighbor, fellow Roman-Italian restaurant Pala Romana, Sfizio claims to mature its pizza dough the traditional way for 72 hours. As well as pizza, the menu focuses on other comforting Italian classics, from homemade gnocchi in cheese and black truffle sauce to Roman-style carbonara. The name, sfizio, is a colloquial Italian term meaning “whim” or instinctive, feel-good choice. The dining room is small and casual, and they also offer takeaway (collection only). 44/4 Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asoke), 02-262-0405. Open Tue-Fri 11:30am-4pm; Tue-Sun 6-10:30pm. MRT Sukhumvit

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE NEW

UNCLE

This moody cocktail bar sits on top of a chic development of restaurants and night spots in the happening Thonglor area. Its specialty is classic cocktails with a twist served for a fraction of the price of other bars which look even half this stylish. Be warned thatwhen you’re sipping drinks as good as head barman Philip Stefanescu’s Manhattan Latino (rum, Mancino Rosso, cocoa and bittes) while lounging on one of their slouchy leather sofas, it’s hard to just have one or two. 3/F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor). Open daily 6pm-2am.

Hot Spots

BEST SECRET BARS

2 HAVANA SOCIAL

J. BOROSKI MIXOLOGY

Run by Joseph Boroski, creator of cocktail lists for sophisticated bars and many five-star hotels, this is a hidden gem among Bangkok’s countless bars—and by hidden, we really mean it. Look for the women in red dresses outside a “karaoke” lounge, turn left and head to the end of the street. Once inside, you’ll be served cocktails tailored to your requirements (there’s no menu) using ingredients you can’t find anywhere else in town.

‘

Y SPOTLIGHT

Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-712-6025. Open daily 7pm-2am.

HAVANA SOCIAL

Going for a ‘40s-50s Havana high-life vibe, this hidden bar specializing in rum is Cuban pastiche done right: shuttered windows, spare lighting and crumbling walls spruced up with colorful tiles, murals and live Afro-Cuban music. The entrance is tucked inside a small alley opposite Fraser Suites. Find the telephone booth labeled “Telefono,” then call the place (on your modernday smartphone) for the night’s unique entry code. Sukhumvit Soi 11, 087-066-7711. Open daily 6pm2am. BTS Nana

J. BOROSKI MIXOLOGY

Q&A

Hidden inside a little alley, this speakeasy-style bar comes courtesy of the local cocktail specialists behind many of the best drink menus in town. The long, narrow space replicates a classic railway carriage dining car with a ‘20s New York vibe, and the music jumps between soul, funk and Afro-Cuban jazz. For drinks, this place keeps things classic with a few twists, including the innovative use of uncommon ingredients, as well as infusions and smoke. Q&A

235/13 Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-664-1445. Open Mon-Sat 7pm-2am. MRT Phetchaburi

Vesper Upscale tapas bar or restaurant that happens to serve great cocktails? However you view Vesper, you can’t leave without splashing out on some serious drinks as well as Mediterranean cuisine designed in partnership with chef Luca Appino (La Bottega di Luca). The marble bar, helmed by an in-house team which comprises Scotland native Colin Tait and a bevy of Diageo World Class contenders, serves cocktails focused on barrel aging and botanical ingredients. 10/15 Convent Rd., 02-235-2777. Open Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm; Mon-Sat 5pm-1am; Sun 5pm-midnight. BTS Sala Daeng

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE BEST NEW NIGHTCLUBS

Beam Home to Asia’s first “body kinetic” dance floor that transmits vibrations into dancers’ feet, this club guarantees you’ll feel the rhythm inside you. Otherwise, the minimal, warehouse-style experience keeps things raw, casual and loud. The lounge area, dubbed the Dalmatian Room, promises easy-going electronic beats while the main room upstairs brings quality, energetic, deep house and techno tracks from live DJs.

RABBIT HOLE

A new addition to the bar scene of one of Bangkok’s liveliest nightlife districts, and one that breaks the monotony at that. Step inside the inconspicuous wooden door wedged between Ainu Japanese bar and Ramen Ajisai and you’ll find a charming, red-lit narrow bar staffed by two veteran Diaego World Class cocktail competition. As well as pouring all the classics, they also dish out some sexy numbers of their own like the fat-wash White Truffle Martini (Tanqueray gin infused with white truffle oil).

125 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 081-822-3392. Open Tue-Sun 7pm-2am

1/F, 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor). Open Wed-Sat 8pm-3am

RABBIT HOLE

TRACK 17

Styled to look like a vintage wood-paneled railway carriage, the space plays up its 1920s Orient-Express vibe with a narrow corridor where you can quite imagine women in lace dresses and men in tuxedos boarding with their travel trunks. An amazing mixing bar sits at the back, surrounded by trunks, frames, globes and maps to set the mood. Enter the “carriage” and take your seat in one of the upright booths over by the windows to enjoy drinks like the 20th Century (gin, carpano bianco vermouth, creme de cacao and lemon juice). The Commons, 355 Thonglor Soi 17, 02-101-4525. Open daily 6pm-midnight

Chi Ultralounge You might have heard of Bed Supperclub, the Bangkok nightlife institution which closed its doors a couple years back. Well, this club resurrects the old iconic spaceship building (really, it’s the exact same structure) two streets over. Gone is Bed’s slick white minimalism in favor of futuristic Chinoiserie dragons and giant fish tanks, spread across a clubbing space, lounge room and second-floor restaurant. The sound system is superb and the decks are manned by veterans of Bangkok’s club scene. 32/8 Sukhumvit Soi 13, 02-102-0013. Open daily 7pm-2am

Sing Sing Prolific Bangkok-based Aussie designer Ashley Sutton (Maggie Choo’s, Iron Fairies) expresses his Chinoiserie fretish here in a Hollywood vision of 1930s Shanghai that’s all lanterns, red lighting and elaborate metal screens. The petite dance floor acts as a hub for a network of mezzanines, sunken bars and Sutton’s trademark warren of secret passages leading to single-table balconies and speakeasy-style backrooms. Look for the drinks containing Iron Balls, Sutton’s own gin. Sukhumvit Soi 45, 097-285-6888. Open daily 8pm-2am

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BANGKOK

SHOPS+SERVICES NEW

EDITIONS

If you’re in the Old Town and want to pick up some local literature, go check out this new independent book store in Tha Maharaj—a riverside promenade filled with restaurants and shops not far from the Grand Palace and Wat Pho. Inside you’ll find an eclectic range of titles geared towards local art and culture, spanning coffee table books on cycling and cafe culture to more in-depth reads on Thai history and international art titles. You can also pick up the odd artisanal souvenir from Thai ceramics brand Chiratornm as well as organic spa products from Divana and elegant postcards for friends back home. Tha Maharaj, Trok Mahathat Maharaj Rd., 092-2481566. Open daily 10am-9pm

Hot Spots

BEST THAI CRAFT OTOP HERITAGE

4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., : 02-160-5975. BTS Phloen Chit

THE WONDER ROOM

This little gem in Siam Center shopping mall specializes in all kinds of super-cool Thai designer items. Some of our favorites come from Found by Trimode, whose head designer, Pirada Senivong na Ayudhya, travels to various provinces around Thailand to help contemporize traditional products. Highlights include Doipui, a modern redesign of a traditional Hmong embroidered hat; Nong Bua Daeng, hand-woven cotton hats and totes colored with natural indigo and ebony dyes; and Nakhon Ratchasima, jewelry made with buffalo, ox and yak horns using metal coating techniques.

3/F, Siam Center (next to Something Boudoir), Rama 1 Rd., 02- 658-1098. BTS Siam

ANOTHER STORY

There’ a whole lot to love at this flawlessly chic boutique in one of the city’s most glamorous malls. But alongside the big international designer names like Tom Dixon and Veja, you’ll also discover some to-die-for local finds, from the woven Thai craft lampshades of Thinkk Studio to the geometric, utterly contemporary beach mats of PDM— a playful update to a classic item of Thai pop culture.

One of a number of Thai craft shops under The One Tambon One Product (OTOP) brand, this store specializes in luxury items produced in Thailand. It features more than a thousand handicraft products selected from different producers around country, most of them home decorative items and fashion accessories. Other OTOP sites include OTOP The Walking Street in Silom (02635-7061) and OTOP The Avenue (096-231-2843) in Ramintra.

ALEXANDER LAMONT

4/F, The Emquartier, Helix Building, Sukhumvit Rd., 02003-6138/9. BTS Phrom Phong

Y SPOTLIGHT

Drawing from his experiences living in both Europe and Asia, Alexander Lamont’s beautiful decor items successfully blend European techniques with the subtle mystique of Asian art. The materials, from bronze to stingray skin, are always luxurious and meticulously handcrafted by the dozens of artisans under Alexander Lamont’s employ, ensuring that each piece of furniture is both unique and meaningful. Room L2-01/1, 2/F, Central Embassy, Ploenchit Rd., 02-1605772. BTS Phloen Chit

GOOD DESIGN

Decked out in cool tones of white and gray, the space looks more like an art gallery than it does a shop, with every product carefully displayed alongside explanatory notes, just as if you were visiting an exhibition. Most of the store is about Japanese goods (lauded items like Sori Yanagi’s Butterfly Stool and Kirimoto Wooden Craft Factory’s super-cool Urushi card case), but there’s a whole lot of beautiful Thai products to discover too—each piece given the international G Mark award for good design.

4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605686. BTS Phloen Chit

JIM THOMPSON The original, main store of this pioneering Thai silk brand stocks silk clothes and accessories across its significant three floors. The space is classic and palatial, paneled with teak from wall to wall, and shows off a range of elegant silks, from pillowcases and scarves to clubby neckties. There are other branches at Jim Thompson House (a must-visit within walking distance of BTS National Stadium) as well as various malls and five-star hotels around Bangkok. 9 Surawong Rd., 02-632-8100. Open daily 9am-9pm. BTS Sala Daeng

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GUIDE

HEALTH + WELLNESS

ORGANIKA Nineteenth-century botanical gardens inspire this cleansing, plant-life-filled spa dripping with colonial charm. Amid plenty of natural light and soothing wooden walls, guests can pick from full body massages in Thai, Swedish, crystal stone, deep tissue, and many more styles, as well as facials, foot massages and mask and scrub therapies. Stay for lunch at the on-site cafe specializing in healthy cuisine. 6/F, Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49. 02-665-1899. Open daily 10am-9pm

Hot Spots BEST THAI SPAS

HEALTH LAND

Set in a grand, Thai-style building in front of Ekkamai Soi 10, this is considered one of the best spas in Bangkok thanks to its immaculate facilities, well-trained staff and wallet-friendly prices. A two-hour traditional Thai massage also comes at a reasonable price, accounting for its local popularity. Unlike most street-side massage shops, its Thai massages are done in private rooms. They also have another branch at Sathorn Soi 10. 96/1, Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-392-2233. Open daily 9am-midnight

MYTH

This spa’s massages are heavily influenced by the Wat Pho school—credited as the birthplace of Thai massage—and are performed using their own blend of essential oils. The modern-rustic decor could come straight from a five-star hotel, but the prices are much more down to earth, while the main treatment room is arranged in the traditional, Thai-style communal format. There’s also a delightful alfresco bar, a boutique selling Thai-made textiles, and a private fortune-telling service. 28/3 Soi Ruam Rudi, 02-651-5600-1. Open daily noon-midnight. BTS Phloen Chit

Located next to the Grand Palace , this is one of the oldest temples in Bangkok, home to the 43-meter-long reclining Buddha and credited as the birthplace of Thai massage. The temple massage school still runs today, meaning visitors can get some of the most authentic massage anywhere in the city. They also run short courses for anyone who’d like to learn for themselves. Sanam Chai Rd., 02-255-4771. Open daily 8am-6pm SPA BOTANICA

SPA BOTANICA

Y SPOTLIGHT

Teak floors and Jim Thompson silks give this spa villa surrounded by lush gardens a luxurious yet homey feel. Inside you’ll find several rooms equipped with steam facilities, jacuzzis and private balconies with views of the garden. Check in for a simple aromatherapy facial or indulge in all-day wellness packages like the “Jasmine Puring Ritual,” a decadent combination of scrubs, oil massages and facials. Guys, you’ll find a special menu just for you, too.

The Sukhothai, 13/3 Sathorn Rd., 02-2344-8900.. Open daily 9am-10pm. MRT Lumphini

OASIS SPA

Set in a stylish compound, this spa’s cool white exterior gives way to 15 treatment rooms decorated in a Thai Lanna style. The King of Oasis is best suited to men and features a twohour hot Thai herbal muscle compress and a hot oil massage. Ladies can opt for the two-hour Queen of Oasis, which blends Swedish and aromatherapy massages. They also have other a la carte and package treatments for hair, body and face. 64 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-262-2122. Open daily 10am-10pm MYTH

WAT PHO

Yunomori Onsen & Spa Thailand’s first onsen is the real deal, meaning men must go commando, while women get the option of disposable undies (men and women bathe in separate sections). If this thing is new to you, fear not, there are cartoons detailing the whole procedure. The water is said to be sourced from a hot spring in Ranong; choose from carbonated, hot, cold or jet-equipped baths to increase blood flow and rejuvenate your skin. A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-259-5778. Open daily 10:30am-midnight

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GUIDE

ATTRACTIONS BOUNCE THAILAND NEW

At Asia’s biggest trampoline park, you can bounce about in a giant room packed with 80 interconnecting trampolines—whether it’s for serious exercise or simply to have some fun. The Free Jumping zone lets you ping around at leisure or practice some pro moves, while the Bounce Fit zone shows you just about the most fun way possible to keep in shape. Kids can join too (aged three and above), with the Mini Bounce Zone offering a safe environment for them to play. 5/F, The St. Ratchada, New Ratchadapisek Rd., 02-014-2446. Open daily 10am-10pm. MRT Thailand Cultural Centre

Hot Spots BEST GOLF COURSES

Right on the flight path of Suvarnabhumi Airport, Thana City Golf and Country offers a challenging course dotted with bunkers, lakes and streams. There’s a special Monday golf course (B1,650 including caddy). The attached Sports Club features swimming pools, fitness, tennis, badminton, table-tennis, squash and a kid’s zone which makes it a place where family can enjoy activities together.

ALPINE GOLF CLUB

Since opening in 1996, the golf club, designed by legendary American golf course architect Ron M. Garl, has hosted many important international golf tournaments. It was even the spot of Tiger Woods’ Asian Tour win in 2000. Plenty of other sports are on offer thanks to a swimming pool, fitness facilities and an aerobics center at the clubhouse. There’s also a sauna and Jacuzzi.

99 M.9 Bangkhan-Sathaneevithayu Rd., Klong 5, 02-5773333. Open Tue-Sun (closed on Mon except public holidays). 6am-8pm. www.alpinegolfclub.com

LE MERIDIEN SUVARNABHUMI

100/2 M.4 Bangna-Trad Highway, Bangchalong, 02-3361968. Open daily 5:30am-6pm (Golf Club); 6am-10pm (Sports Club). www.thanacitygolf.com

Managed by Peninsula Hotels, this 7,157yard course is known for its excellent service. The course was designed by Dennis Griffiths under US PGA international standards. And has regularly been voted Asia’s Top Course by Asian Golf magazine. 88 M.1, Bangna-Trad Rd., Km 35.5, 038-570-234. Open Tue-Sun (closed on Mon except Public Holidays) 6am9pm. www.thaicountryclub.com

Y SPOTLIGHT

ROYAL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB

Located close to the International Airport, it is easily accessed through the Motorway (BangkokChonburi). This scenic golf and country club with trees and lakes spread throughout, is known as one of Thailand’s challenging golf courses with many water hazard holes. The signature ‘Mickey Mouse’ hole (par 4 hole 16) is so dubbed due to its resemblance to the wellknown Disney Character. 69 M.7, Tambon Rd., Sisa Chorakhe Noi, Bang Sao Thong, 02-738-1010. Opens Mon-Sun 6am-6pm

Just a short taxi ride from Suvarnabhumi International Airport, Bangkok’s Golf Resort & Spa, situated in the Summit Windmill Golf Club, has both day and night golf courses, elegant guest rooms and various leisure facilities including exclusive access to the clubhouse, spa and pool. There are also plenty of restaurants: try Favola for Italian and Latitude 13° 39’ for evening drinks.

789 M.14, Bangna-Trad Rd., Km 10.5, Bangplee, 02-1187777 (Le Meridien Suvarnabhumi), 02-750-2112 (Summit Windmill Golf Club). Day golf open daily 6am-5pm; night golf open Tue-Fri 4pm-12am; Sat-Sun 5:30-12am. www.lemeridiensuvarnabhumi.com

THAI COUNTRY CLUB

ROYAL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB

AKARAT AKWISARN

THANA CITY GOLF AND SPORTS CLUB

Vimanmek First-time visitors will most likely already be in awe of the beautiful garden inside the palace gates, but step inside the colossal mansion and you’ll realize you can easily spend a whole day here, walking around the 31 exhibition rooms and taking in some of Thailand’s most prized photographs and artifacts, as well as King Rama V’s personal belongings ranging from elegant antique furniture to rare foreign memorabilia. But it isn’t just the museum’s displays that will catch your eye—the gorgeous teak structure itself boasts a great deal of early 20th century charm. 16 Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300. Open Tue-Sun 9:30am-3pm

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GUIDE

ART

NEW

GALLERY VER

Sathorn's latest contemporary art gallery comes in the form of a warehouse-turnedart unit that includes a gallery and exhibition space by artist Rirkrit Tiravanija and an art studio by artist Takerng Pattanopas. Also attached to the building is Tentacles, a high-ceiling art space-slash-cafe by Henry Tan that frequently hosts art workshops, exhibitions and activities while serving up coffee and snacks. N22, Narathiwas Soi 15 (Sathu Pradit), 089-9885890

Hot Spots TOP EXHIBITIONS THIS MONTH

Y SPOTLIGHT

PAINTER PRESTIGE

Verapong Sritrakulkitjakarn presents a series of intricate collage works on canvas, capturing the life of an artist and how artworks can come to reflect his values, beliefs and sense of spirit. Apr 8-30, The National Gallery Bangkok, Chao Fa Rd, Phra Nakhon

BROOKLYN 11211

American/Swedish photographer Jesper Haynes shares images taken at nighttime overlooking 404 Wythe Avenue while he lived in a four-story walkup in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York. Through Apr 12, Soy Sauce Factory, 11/1 Charoenkrung Soi 24

WE HAVE JUST ONE WORLD

WE HAVE JUST ONE WORLD BUT WE LIVE IN DIFFERENT ONES

A collection of prints, drawings and embroidery by Wittamon Niwattichai exploring the moments that we all share in our daily lives, from crossing the same streets to sharing a quick glance in a crowd, which depicts how we all share similarities despite being strangers. Through Apr 29, Rikyu by Boy Tokyo, 45 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-115-5778

DANSE MACABRE

Parparhn Sirima Chaipreechawitâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest exhibition captures the people of Kathmandu post-earthquake with an eerie mazelike quality in a series of stunning black and white photographs. Through Apr 30, Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700. BTS Surasak

PURIFY

Sudaporn Teja exhibits her latest abstract paintings using layers of color drips and pours to play with a range of color shades and textures that express her emotions. Through Apr 30, Serindia Gallery, OP Garden, 4-6 Charoenkrung 36, 02-238-6410. BTS Saphan Taksin

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) Set in the bustling area across the road from Siam Square and MBK, the city's foremost art center lacks a permanent collection but hosts temporary contemporary art exhibitions across its nine floors. They can vary wildly in quality, but regularly offer glimpses of the country's best privately-held contemporary art collections. The center also contains small, design-centric stores, ranging from cafes and restaurants to book shops, and a movie theater on its top floor. This month, catch "Love and Relationship," a collection of portraits using highly-detailed realistic techniques; "Thailand Eye," a group exhibition by 23 of the city's emerging contemporary artists; "Shifting Horizons," a mixed-media art performance curated by John Sanborn that explores music, myth and memory; and "Omnivoyeur," an electromagnetic sound and visual project capturing ambient noise from around the city. 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630-8. Open Tue-Sun 10am9pm. BTS National Stadium. www.bacc.or.th.

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Lat Phrao ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

Phahon Yothin ¾ËÅâÂ¸Ô¹

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7 Tha Chang ·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹ÒªŒÒ§

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Makkasan ÁÑ¡¡ÐÊÑ¹

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1 Asiatique the Riverfont

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BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

3 Vimanmek Mansion

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumphini Park

MRT

5 Khao San Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

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7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

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8 Wat Pho

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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130. The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 AP RIL 2016 I W HERE THA ILA N D 33

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

!0 1 Splashing water with the locals for three straight days on Silom Road, the hub of Bangkok’s Thai New Year celebrations. See page 6.

!6 7 Sipping a unique handcrafted cocktail at J. Boroski Mixology, a secret lounge bar that offers no menu and cocktails made from hard-to-find ingredients. See page 26.

@1 !3 Checking in to Health Land for !8 Spending a cultural day at Vimanthe most comfortable and best-priced foot massage around. See page 29.

!4 Sampling molecular Indian dishes

mek Palace, whose spectacular teak architecture houses the royal museums of photography, textiles and silk, clocks. See page 30.

2 Eating the inventive, five-course

at Gaggan, Asia’s no. 1 restaurant

tasting menu at Le Du, one of our favorite kitchens in town. See page 12.

8 Stocking up on beautiful ceram- according to World’s 50 Best Res- !9 Bouncing around in a warehouse

3 Browsing around for unique decor pieces at Alexander Lamont, known for his European-style objet d’art with Asian touches. See page 28. 4 Tasting the creatively crafted dishes at Err, a riverside restaurant specializing in casual Thai dining. See page 12.

ics and kitchenware at OTOP Heritage, located in the luxurious Central Embassy. See page 28.

taurants for the second year running. See page 12.

filled with 80 trampolines at Bounce Thailand. See page 30.

!5 Playing 18 holes on the challenging @0 Temple-hopping along the river9 Getting a tension-relieving Thai but beautiful golf course at Le Merid- side for fun cultural activities that massage at the spiritual home of the art, Wat Pho, also home to the 46-meter-long reclining Buddha. See page 29.

!0 Discovering Michelin-star-wor-

ian Suvarnabhumi. See page 30.

offer a traditional side to the Songkran Festival. See page 6.

!6 Browsing for fun Thai-style gadgets and stylish stationery at Another Story, a multi-label concept store inside Emquartier mall. See page 28.

thy traditional Thai dishes at David

5 Savoring the authentic royal Thai Thompson’s Nahm. See page 12.

!7 Tucking into a hearty plate of crab

cuisine at Blue Elephant, a fine-dining institution set in a beautifully restored mansion. See page 23.

yellow curry at Somboon Seafood.

!1 Playing a round of golf at the Thai See page 23.

6 Shopping for luxury silk products at the original Jim Thompson store. See page 28.

!2 Partying with the city’s best DJs

@1 Winding down in a selection of hot, cold or jet-equipped baths at

Yunomori Onsen & Spa, Thailand’s first onsen. See page 29.

Country Club with a group of friends. See page 30.

on W Bangkok’s stylish Wet Deck. See page 6.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

34 W H E R E T H AILAND I A PRI L 2 0 1 6

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Where to find Hotels in Bangkok The AETAS Bangkok All Seasons Bangkok Siam Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11 Amari Watergate Amara Bangkok Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa Arnoma Baan Noppawong Bally’s Studio Suites Banyan Tree Bangkok Best Western Sukhumvit Cabochon Hotel & Residence Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Centara Grand at Central World Centara Hotels & Resorts Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok Conrad Bangkok Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Dusit Thani Bangkok Emporium Suites Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Four Points by Sheraton Four Seasons Bangkok GLOW Pratunam Grand Hyatt Erawan Grand Mercure Park Avenue Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Holiday Inn Silom Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 Hotel Muse Imperial Queens Park InterContinental Bangkok JW Marriott Bangkok The Landmark Bangkok Le Fenix Sukhumvit LIT Bangkok Luxx Majestic Grande Mandarin Hotel Mandarin Oriental Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit 57

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