Where® Thailand May 2016 by Where Thailand

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M AY 2 0 1 6 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

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Best galleries in the city Pattaya hot spots

CULTURE CAPITAL

The Bangkok neighborhoods embracing the best of international art, design and dining trends. LES CLEFS D’OR THAIL AND

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W H E R E T H A I LAND I MAY 2 0 1 6

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CONTENTS where

l THAILAND l MAY 2016

The Guide

BISTRO BANGKOK

BANGKOK

The city's hippest hoods for coffee shops, boutiques, restaurants and cocktail bars.

23 DINING Bangkok is a sushi lovers' paradise. These restaurants take precision and freshness to the next level.

26 NIGHTLIFE Catch the city's top jazz bands at these live music institutions.

28 SHOPS+SERVICES Learn which luxury designer labels are hiding in Bangkok's most glamorous shopping malls.

29 HEALTH+WELLNESS

ART

Experience spa treatments with a difference at these creative wellness retreats.

12 GALLERY HOPPING Discover Bangkok's best art spaces and learn what exhibitions are running.

30 ATTRACTIONS These museums preserve the best of Thai culture in glorious, heritage buildings.

AROUND THAILAND

31 ART

16 COASTAL COOL

This month's must-visit exhibitions and galleries.

Pattaya's latest attractions.

32 NAVIGATE

EXPLORING

Essential tips on getting around.

18 SUKHUMVIT SOI 31-49 The Phrom Phong neighborhood is home to some of Bangkok's finest international dining opportunities.

ALSO INSIDE 4

20 CHAROENKRUNG Running along the Chao Phraya River, Charoenkrung Road brims with heritage architecture, antique dealers and luxurious riverside bars.

Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon

Deputy Art Director Panita Thiraphapong

Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grégoire Glachant

Where Designer Wariya Whangwaewklang Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Lily Kittisrikangwan, Natcha Saguankiattichai, Bonnie Sananvatananont

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Features Associate Monruedee Jansuttipan Marketing Executive Plaifon Chienvichai Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dith Chang

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Distribution Manager Suda Angsuputiphant Intern Joseph Lam

HOT DATES

34 21 THINGS WE LOVE Where Thailand is proud to be an associated publication of the Thailand Chapter of Les Clefs d'Or (the International Concierge Association).

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@ Morris.Com

MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Cover by Panita Thiraphapong

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, Room A, 100 North Sathorn Rd. Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

www.wherethailand.com

@where_thailand

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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HOT DATES

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

MAY 6

TOGETHER AGAIN

One of the city’s biggest EDM concerts, Together Festival, returns for its fifth edition this year with huge international names including the British electronica duo Disclosure and American electro house DJ Steve Aoki as its headliners. They’ll be joined by other big names including Andrew Rayel, Firebeatz, Galantis, Nervo and Tohamt for an unforgettable night of quality electronic dance music. B2,000-2,400 from Thaiticketmajor. May 6, BITEC 88 Bang Na-Trat Rd., 02-749-3939

MAY 10

MAY 14

MAY 20-29

MAY 27

Olivia Newton John, four-time Grammy Award-winning Australian singer best known for her role in the 1978 movie Grease, takes the Bangkok stage to perform her biggest hits including “If You Love Me Let Me Know,” “Summer Night” and “Magic.”

Three-time Grammy Award-winning Russian pianist and conductor Vladimir Ashkenazy and his son Vovka will be performing masterpieces from the romantic age, including Rachmaninov’s Symphonic Dance, Ravel’s Rhapsodie Espagnole, Smetana’s The Moldau and Glinka’s Valse-Fantasie.

Kon Rak Mime Festival is an international theater festival dedicated to mime performances, featuring some of the best performers in the industry from Germany, Japan and Thailand, including Milan Sladek, Kita Kyoichi and Paitoon Laisakul. They’ll be collaborating over the nine days in this unique set of performances that combines humor, technique and emotion.

Pulitzer Prize-winning photographer David Longstreath hosts A View from the Edge, an exclusive showcase of his works from the past 45 years capturing historic events including the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, the death of Pol Pot and Mother Teresa’s funeral.

THE ONE I WANT

B2,500-5,500 from Thaiticketmajor. com. May 10, Royal Paragon Hall, 5/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-6108023. BTS Siam

MODERN CLASSICS

B800-3,200 from Thaiticketmajor. com. May 14, Thailand Cultural Centre, Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02-2623456. MRT Thailand Cultural Centre

MAKE BELIEVE

EDGE OF REASON

May 27 onwards, Cho Why, 17 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd. MRT Hua Lamphong

B600 from Thaiticketmajor.com. May 20-29, Thammasat University, 12 Prachan Rd.

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HOT NEIGHBORHOODS ROOTS

BISTRO BANGKOK

Bangkok’s coolest neighborhoods are booming with coffee connoisseurs, new fashion boutiques, experimental cocktail lounges and laidback restaurants. Take note of the places near your hotel to enjoy the best of modern Bangkok. Oliver Irvine THE COMMONS

THONGLOR-EKKAMAI BREAKFAST This area buzzes with cool morning places. Some specialize firmly in coffee (see right), while others do an amazing job in the kitchen, too. Rocket’s (Piman 49, Sukhumvit 49) blend of comforting, Scandinavian blond-wood furniture and marble is always a hit, as is the menu of open-faced Nordic sandwiches, granola, eggy dishes, pastries and bread. For something with a more Thai slant, check out Taper (Thonglor Soi 13), whose specialty is Western dishes with local twists, such as salted egg carbonara (fresh pasta, grilled squid, salty egg yolk) and E-Sarn Olio Aglio (fresh pasta, Isaan sausage, salted fish). Or for somewhere you could easily spend two hours over a lazy breakfast on comfy sofas, head to Roast (The Commons, Thonglor Soi 17), one of Bangkok’s leading cafes and coffeeroasters—and a dab hand at breakfast favorites from flaky croissants to rich eggs Benedict.

SERIOUS COFFEE

SHOPPING

On the Ekkamai side of the neighborhood you’ll find some of the most devoted names in the Bangkok coffee business. Roots (The Commons, Thonglor Soi 17) is the coffeefocused offshoot of Roast (see left), where they prepare and blend beans for distribution as well as bake all of Roast’s pastries (the croissants straight from the oven are divine). Though only open on weekends, it’s a mustvisit for anyone who’s serious about their coffee. On the same street, Ink & Lion ( 1/7 Ekkamai Soi 2) ticks all the boxes for a feel-good afternoon in a coffee shop: eclectic furniture imported from Japan, rotating art exhibitions on the walls, tasteful jazz playing through a vinyl stereo, unparalleled slow-drip coffee. For something a bit more experimental, Kaizen (582/5 Ekkamai Soi 26 and 28) specializes in nitrogen-brewed coffee, pumped ice cold straight from the tap just like beer. Or for a lazy afternoon in front of your Macbook catching up with friends back home, check out either Casa Lapin x 49 (Sukhumvit Soi 49) or Onion (see right).

Never really a shopping destination until recently, Thonglor and Ekkamai are now home to some of the city’s best boutiques. Niche Nation (Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd.) is the city’s no. 1 purveyor of cool eyewear brands from across the world—Moscot, Persol, Mykita, you name it, they’ve got it. Onion (19/12 Ekkamai Soi 12) is a coffee shop (see left) that doubles as a men’s clothing boutique stocked with a raft of cult brands and staffed by some of the hippest kids in the city. Treasures (The Commons, Thonglor Soi 17) and Unfashion ( Ekkamai Soi 10) both pack in a bounty of vintage finds, the former specializing in authentic designer gowns, the latter going in for well-worn leather goods, mainly bags and shoes for both sexes. Want to stock up on some local labels? Head to Statement (Thonglor Soi 11), and Featherstone (60 Ekkamai Soi 12), which sells some beautiful stone and feather accessories.

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DRINKS Thonglor is a hotbed of cocktail lounges with incredible drinks and speakeasy pretensions. Our favorite, Rabbit Hole (125 Sukhumvit Soi 55), features a huge rose gold booze rack in front of which two veteran bartenders from the Diageo World Class stage pour out some of the best drinks we’ve ever tasted. The super-exclusive J Boroski (Sukhumvit Soi 55) does a similar line of uncompromisingly good cocktails in a moody space hidden down an alleyway—just look for the girls in red dresses standing outside a “karaoke lounge” and you’ll be close. More craft cocktails can be had on the top floor of The Commons (see left) at the OrientExpress-inspired Track 17 (The Commons, 355 Thonglor Soi 17), while UNCLE (72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55) has a more easygoing, party vibe.

RABBIT HOLE

LADY BRETT

FEATHERSTONE

DINNER Good food takes center stage at Thonglor’s loft-like, open-plan new community mall The Commons (Thonglor Soi 17). Its ground floor spans vendors including Maison Jean Philippe (bread), Roots (coffee), Peppina (pizza), Meat & Bones (ribs), The Beer Cap (craft beer) and Baan Ying (Thai/ Western dishes). Choose what you want to eat, place your order, then take a seat at the communal tables which all the restaurants share. Closer to the BTS station you’ll find one of Bangkok’s Thai bistro institutions, Soul Food Mahanakorn (56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 ), which serves a truly delicious list of Thai dishes with a preference for Northern fare. Not far down the road you’ll find the slightly more refined Supanniga Eating Room (160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55), where the elegant but authentic dishes ensure a crowd of picky local foodies night after night. For hipster barbecue and tapas-style small-plates, look no further than Lady Brett (72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55). The atmosphere is cool and welcoming, and some of the food is nothing short of sensational.

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HOT NEIGHBORHOODS SATHORN-SILOM BREAKFAST The original branch of Rocket (149 Sathorn Soi 12, also see Thonglor and Ekkamai) dominates the breakfast scene in this neighborhood and for good reason: their coconut porridge and Rocket’s Benedict are dishes worth getting out of bed for. Just around the corner, Not Just Another Cup (75/1, Sathorn Soi 10) goes down a more full-fat, guilty pleasure comfort food route (though you’ll also find the occasional bowl of muesli or green juice on the menu). A couple of doors away, Kumi (71/2 Sathorn Soi 10) emphasizes healthy dishes and organic coffee.

SERIOUS COFFEE For one of the best cups of coffee in the area, look no further than those Rocket boys again (see above), whose ability to source the very best beans and serve them as they should be served is second to none. Over on Silom, you’ll find the equally serious Ceresia (Tisco Tower, 48/2 Sathorn Rd.), where the friendly staff and minimal interior make for a complete coffee-lover’s package. They specialize in selling beans to take away, so do have a look on what’s on offer.

(northeastern spiced pork salad) to share with friends. For some delicious, casual Western food, head over to Sathorn and pull up a seat at either Lady Brett (149 Sathorn Soi 12), where you’ll find barbecue and tapas dishes courtesy of the same owners as Rocket, or Marcel (Sathorn Soi 10), which does a wonderful line of bistro-style French cuisine. For a taste of something Thai in a hip, moody setting, Supanniga (28 Sathorn Soi 10) next door can’t be beaten.

DRINKS You can easily spend a night hanging round Marcel (see above) after dinner, when the downstairs starts to welcome local afterworkers in need of a stiff, well-poured drink. In the same neighborhood you also have

Hanakaruta (Sathorn Soi 10 ), a Japanese whiskey bar which begs you to pull up a barstool, order up a highball and get talking to the barman about what to drink next; Revolucion (50 Sathorn Soi 10), the neighborhood’s party spot and a favorite of yo-pros who don’t mind facing work the next morning with a craft cocktail-induced hangover; and Le Cafe des Stagiaires (142/21 Sathorn Soi 12), which teems with Bangkok’s French community pretty much every night of the week. For some of the best cocktails in the city, you need to head back over to Silom, where Vesper’s ( 10/15 Convent Rd.) bartenders specialize in barrel aging, botanical ingredients and getting everything bang-on perfect.

SHOPPING With a cute retro-inspired facade, Everyday by Karmakamet (1/F, Yada Building, Silom Rd.) is a warren of keepsakes that beg to be taken home. Though primarily a fragrance brand (with other branches at Chatuchak Market and CentralWorld shopping mall), this store goes well beyond just that. Aromatic home and body products sit alongside little everyday items ranging from their own tableware, pillows and napkins to bags and T-shirts from cool local brands like Container and The Sleeveless Garden.

MARCEL

DINNER Somtum Der (5/5 Sala Daeng Rd.) is the original Bangkok branch of a somtam (that’s northeastern Thai papaya salad) restaurant which now has a Michelin-star winning branch in New York. Needless to say, the dishes are incredible. To see what we mean, order the tum kai kem (papaya salad with salted egg), laab moo tod (northeastern-spiced pork patties) and nom tok moo

SOMTUM DER

ROCKET

EVERYDAY BY KAMAKAMET

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CHAROENKRUNG & THE RIVER Jam BREAKFAST And now for something completely different. On Luk Yun (72 Charoenkrung Rd., 02223-9621.) will give you a taste of traditional Thai-Chinese cafe culture—bread with egg custard, “American” breakfasts (basically cocktail sausages and fried eggs covered in Maggie sauce) and milky cups of coffee. The space is over 80 years old and has a loyal following of old boys who arrive early every morning to shoot the breeze.

SERIOUS COFFEE There’s a four-story art space right beside Saphan Taksin BTS called Bridge (Charoen Krung Soi 51) which also doubles as a coffee shop staffed by a group of people who know well how to handle an espresso machine. It’s a great place to drop by before any trip up river, both for the coffee and the rotating exhibitions. If you’ve got a little more time on your hands, cross over the river to the

Factory (41/1-41/2 Charoen Nakorn Rd.), a complex of old warehouses turned into architects’ offices, galleries and eateries right below the Millennium Hilton hotel (cheat note: you can take the hotel’s boat for free from Saphan Taksin pier to get dropped right outside). The coffee shop is located just behind the river by the big open green, and draws in a full house of design students pretty much any day of the week.

ON LUK YUNG

SHOP While you’re over at the Jam Factory, don’t miss Candide Books (41/4 The Jam Factory, Charoen Nakhon Rd.). It’s in the same warehouse as the coffee shop and packed full of interesting little keepsakes. All the books are in Thai, meaning you can get some really cool short-print-run Thai editions of international classics, but if that’s not your thing then there are plenty of other designer-y knickknacks on offer—we especially love the postcards.

JAM FACTORY

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HOT NEIGHBORHOODS

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Back on the other side of the river, Nahim (78-80 Charoen Krung Soi 22) is a mustvisit before checking out the cool little bars (see right) of Chinatown’s buzzing Soi Nana area. Inside you’ll find handcrafted items with a distinctly Japanese aesthetic, from polka-dot knitted tea cozies to cutesy wood-carved animals.

DINNER NAHIM

NEVER ENDING SUMMER

TEENS OF THAILAND

AN ELEVATED DINING EXPERIENCE Open to the skies, sleek, glamorous and dramatic, roof-topping Blue Sky is now serving up a stylish new menu full of French-inspired delicacies and wild cocktail creations.

80/20 (1054 Charoen Krung Rd.) is the area’s latest hit-restaurant. As the name alludes, 80 percent of the ingredients are local, whether produced in-house (jams, pickles, ice cream), sourced from trusted artisanal names (Heaven on Cheese, Chalongbay Rum) or bought from the markets down the road. Though the dishes are not typically Thai, there is an emphasis on the big and bold flavors loved by locals. Back over at the Jam Factory, Never Ending Summer (41/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd.) dishes out rich, homestyle Thai dishes in an effortlessly cool, raw warehouse setting, while its counterpart, Summer House Project (41/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd.) serves Western dishes from fisherman’s stews to pastas and benefits from better river views.

DRINKS The area between Charoenkrung and Chinatown is right now one of Bangkok’s hottest nightlife spots. Teens of Thailand (76 Soi Nana, Charoen Krung Rd.) recently ranked as the 27th best bar in Asia at Asia’s 50 Best Bars competition. You’ll soon see why once you’ve spent an evening drinking in both the gin-focused cocktails and the miniscule bar itself. Across the road, Tep Bar (Room 69-71, Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd.) has brought hipster cool to Thai tradition, with a classical Thai band playing every night, delicious northeastern bar snacks and local craft beers on offer. A short taxi ride away, Soulbar (945 Charoen Krung Rd.) is quite comfortably the best live soul and jazz music venue in town right now. Don’t miss it on a Friday night.

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+ where I BANK OF THAILAND MUSEUM

OLD TOWN LIFE

PASSPORT BOOKSHOP

BAAN NOPPAWONG

www.facebook.com/brownsugarbangkok

Five awesome things you never knew about Bangkok’s Old Town.

NANG LOENG MARKET

There’s so much more to Bangkok’s Old Town than the tourist sites. Here are our favorite things to do.

1. Classic palaces are just the start of the area’s cultural experiences

Some of Thailand’s most iconic palaces can be found on Rattanakosin Island (that’s the official name for the Old Town area), but it’s also home to incredible new cultural attractions. The front hall of the Bangkok National Museum (02-224-1333), for example, just underwent an awe-inspiring renovation to show off some of its priceless Buddhist artefacts in a truly world-class setting. Another, far less well-known cultural attraction is the Bank of Thailand Museum (0-2283-5286, ow.ly/4mQJHP). The once rather exclusive space recently began opening its doors to the public every Saturday, and tells the history of Thai currency (which dates back to the 1st century AD). It sits in the beautiful neo-colonial Bang Khun Prom Palace. Exploring its corridors and halls makes one feel like they’re in a period Thai film. For something more contemporary, Ratchadamnoen Contemporary Art Center (02-422-8827, www.rcac84.com) is a crisp industrial art space that has started hosting the Bangkok Art Festival every weekend, which brings together contemporary street shows, live music, handcrafts and DIY products.

2. There are cool cafes and coffee shops with a difference

For a peaceful reading session, Dialogue Coffee & Gallery (084 754 8799, www.fb.com/Dialogue. Bkk) offers plenty of space and tranquility, while

the bookstore/cafe Passport Bookshop (02-6290694) is the perfect spot to head for some travel inspiration. The small and arty Na Bowon (02 003 5361) is also a must-visit on Phra Sumen Road. For a solid cup of coffee, head to Cafe Velodome (www.fb.com/CafeVelodome), a favorite of coffee snobs and cyclists. If you can’t get a table because of all the students, then head over to Elefin Coffee (02-622-1115, www.fb.com/elefincafe). It’s just by Wat Pho, home of the reclining Buddha.

3. Incredible street food sits beside the city’s most creative new restaurants

From street eats to Thai fine-dining cuisine, Phra Nakhon doesn’t disappoint. Nang Loeng Market (123 Phaniang Rd.) is considered one of the oldest markets in the city, home to fluffy salapao (Chinese buns), roasted duck, guay tiew kae (Hakka noodles) and traditional Thai desserts. But the area is also welcoming cool young restaurants. Err: Urban Rustic Thai (02-622-2291, www.errbkk.com) is the down-to-earth project of chefs Bo Songvisava and Dylan Jones, whose fine-dining restaurant, Bo.Lan, ranks as one of the city’s top culinary players. If you’re traveling in a group, do book a table at Bangkok Bold (098829-4310, www.bangkokbold.com), where the former chef from Four Seasons Hotel’s Spice Market dishes out chef’s table meals of wonderful Thai cuisine. She even cooked for Ban Ki Moon recently at the Thai Food Festival NYC, UN Headquarters.

BROWN SUGAR

The Old Town is also a hub of vegetarian food. Whether it’s raw cuisine at the famous May Kai Dee (02-281-7699, www.maykaidee.com), vegetarian breakfast at Chomp (02 629 2026, www. fb.com/chompcafe), colorful superfoods pasta at Mango (082-457-9071, ow.ly/4mQN4r), or fried tempeh at the genuinely hip Joy Luck Club (02629-3112), you’re pretty much spoiled for choice.

4. It has some of Bangkok’s very best live music venues

You don’t always have to go wild on Khao San. The area has heaps of live music venues, be it the bluesy sounds at Adhere 13th (09-769-4613, www.adhere13thbluesbar.com), the jazzy tunes at Jazz Happens (02-282-9934, www.jazzhappens. org) and Brown Sugar (081-805-7759, www. brownsugarbangkok.com), or the Thai pop covers around the bars on Phra Athit. Alternatively, just chill by the river on the rooftop of Sala Rattanakosin or The Deck by Arun Residence.

5. It’s one of the most fun a eas to base your trip

The Old Town is without doubt Bangkok’s most atmospheric place to stay. For neo-colonial, classic style, make reservations at Baan Noppawong (02-224-1047, www.baannoppawong.com) and Baan Dinso (02-621-2808, www.baandinso. com), which are both brimming with local charm and heritage. To be beside the river, Riva Surya (02-633-5000, www.rivasuryahotelbangkok.com) offers beautiful and well-appointed accommodation with a heritage twist, while for a taste of the ultimate in luxury, head a little upriver to The Siam (02-206-6999, www.thesiamhotel.com), an incredible art deco-referencing boutique hotel. MAY 2016 I W HER E THA ILA N D 11

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ART

GALLERY HOPPING

Discover Bangkok’s best spaces to view contemporary art, both from local artists and traveling exhibitions.

GALLERY VER

BACC

Current exhibitions:

Thailand Eye A contemporary art exhibition featuring works from 23 of the country’s top artists. The exhibition was previously exhibited in London as part of last year’s Thai Exhibition to celebrate 160 years of Thai and British relations.

Through Aug 7

Omnivoyeur and Electrical Walks GALLERY VER

GALLERY VER This contemporary art gallery comes in the form of a warehouse-turned-art unit that includes a gallery and exhibition space by artist Rikrit Tiravanija and an art studio by artist Takerng Pattanopas. Also attached to the building is Tentacles, a high-ceiling art space-slash-cafe that frequently hosts art workshops, exhibitions and activities while serving up coffee and snacks. Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Soi 22, 089-988-5890

BACC

BACC (BANGKOK ART AND CULTURE CENTER) Set in the bustling area across the road from Siam Square and MBK, the city’s foremost art center lacks a permanent collection but hosts temporary contemporary art exhibitions across its nine floors. They can vary wildly in quality, but regularly offer glimpses of the country’s best privately-held contemporary art collections. The center also contains small, design-centric stores, ranging from cafes and restaurants to book shops, and a movie theater on its top floor.

An electromagnetic sound and visual project by Christina Kubisch and Miti Ruangkritya that captures ambient sounds from around the city which are inaudible to the naked ear.

Through Jul 10

Foursome A group exhibition by four local artists who present colorful portraits of nude bodies, taking inspiration from the Theater of the Absurd style of Eugene Ionesco.

Through May 31 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630-8. BTS National Stadium

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100 TONSON One of the foremost contemporary art galleries in Bangkok is located in a beautiful modern building designed by renowned French designer Christian Liaigre and regularly welcomes such high profile artists as Rirkrit Tiravanija and Prateep Suthathongthai. The gallery’s greatest pride is its ability to take Thai artists abroad and it was the first Thai gallery to participate at Art Basel in Switzerland. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-684-1527. BTS Ratchadamri

H GALLERY

100 TONSON

BANGKOK CITYCITY GALLERY This purpose-built white cube right by Lumphini Park facilitates all forms of art, whether it’s paintings, video installations or live performances. The owner is young and rooted in Bangkok’s art, skateboard and design subcultures, ensuring a cool if sometimes clique-y crowd. Current exhibition:

BANGKOK CITYCITY GALLERY

100 TONSON

Painting in Rooms Filled with People with Funny Names 3 Korakrit Arunanondchai presents a video series on denim art, featuring light design by Alex Gvojic and music by Harry Bornstein.

Through Jun 5 13/3 Sathorn Soi 1, 083-087-2725. MRT Lumphini

H GALLERY Set in a beautiful late-19th century Anglo-Thai mansion, H Gallery’s exhibitions represent emerging contemporary Asian artists and are curated by Brian Curtin, one of the foremost experts and critics in this field. Upstairs is home to H Project Space, a floor dedicated to more experimental projects and live performances. One of Bangkok’s more daring art spaces, it’s not afraid to host provocative or controversial work. Current exhibition:

The Southeast Asia Movie Theater Project Philip Jablon presents his ongoing photograph documentation of the region’s remaining, and rapidly disappearing, standalone movie theaters, emphasizing the modernization taking over the region. Through May 29 201 Sathorn Soi 12, 085-021-5508. BTS Chong Nonsi

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where

ART

JAM FACTORY Duangrit Bunnag’s stunningly designed riverside compound comprises restaurants (Never Ending Summer, The Summer House Project), a bookshop (Candide), a showroom for Anyroom furniture, a cafe (Any Cafe) and a gallery that often features works from the city’s hottest young artists. The space also regularly hosts the popular Knack Market and concerts in the open-air courtyard. Current exhibition:

Asylum Seeker: The Pond and the Fireflies Prapat Jiwarangsan’s latest art installation uses the ongoing conflict of Thai politics and the country’s social changes as the backdrop for his own self-discovery.

KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY

MOCA

Manit Sriwanichpoom’s two-floor gallery sits in a restored pre-war shop-house and includes exhibition space, a lounge area and a book store specializing in Hinduism and Shamanism. Open since 2006, it’s still Bangkok’s preeminent photography gallery, with a focus on Thai society’s transformation and urbanization. Kathmandu also preserves and rediscovers the works of forgotten masters of Thai photography. Customers interested in acquiring one of Manit’s works can also browse them from a folder, just like in photo-art shops of days long past. 87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700. BTS Surasak

Telecoms magnate Boonchai Bencharongkul’s five-story building is Thailand’s biggest private museum and the country’s first significant permanent modern art collection open to the public. The works are mostly post-1990s, often focusing on realism and surrealism depicting rural life, religious Buddhist scenes or mythological motifs from the Ramayana, though a few more political and controversial pieces have made their way into the collection, too. The temporary exhibition space on the first floor is dedicated to rare collections from Thai masters, either from the archives of Boonchai’s personal collection or on loan from other institutions. Bejajinda Building, Wiphawadi-Rangsit Rd., 02-9531005-7

Through May 15 41/1-41/2 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-861-0950

NUMTHONG GALLERY This spacious, minimal gallery focuses on promoting the works of local artists, whether emerging or internationally acclaimed. It has also come to be considered as an idea-sharing space for artists, curators and art collectors, featuring a library for art-related research as well as an information desk sharing details on upcoming exhibitions, current contemporary art news and artist interviews. Current exhibition:

The Long Lasting Journey

KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY

Ten emerging artists who are all participated in Los Angeles’ APNA #5 project, including Chaiyaporn Raveesiri, Hathairat Maneerat, Jiratchaya Pripwai and Kamonchanok Phonngam come together to capture the two-week journey they shared traveling in a van across the United States.

Through May 19 72/3 Ari Soi 5, 02-617-2794. BTS Ari

ADLER SUBHASHOK GALLERY MOCA

This unique space actually offers a gallery within a gallery, thanks to the Subhashok Art Center joining forces with Parisian gallery Adler to become the Adler Subhashok Gallery. Expect plenty of big name contemporary international and local artists showcased here, given Adler’s connections with artists like Helmut Newton and David LaChapelle. 160/3 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-0299. MRT Sukhumvit

ADLER SUBHASHOK GALLERY

THE JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

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WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

WHERE ARTISTS RECOMMENED

Attasit Pokpong, painter

Parparhn Sirima Chaipreechawit, photographer

Kult, graffiti artist

My favorite Thai artists are… Natee Utrarit and Tawan Watuya. The way they work shows that they take the life of being an artist seriously. Tawan is a little bit more my age, a painter whose style is very distinct.

My favorite Thai artist is… Lolay Taweesak, the sketcher and street artist. He’s the first artist that actually made me want to spend money purchasing a piece of art.

My favorite art gallery in Bangkok right now is… the BACC. I like that they feature contemporary art from international artists. Getting my work showcased there was truly a mark of success; it felt like the art community was acknowledging my work, even though street art is not always taken seriously.

My favorite art gallery in Bangkok right now is… Adler Subhashok Gallery. It has a lot of wide space which is always a great factor to have for public galleries—it makes it great for exhibiting large art pieces like mine. One thing I love about the Thai art scene is… the fact that, compared to when I started 10 years ago, there are many more talented young artists emerging in the scene that have a lot of potential. It’s great to see. One thing I dislike about the Thai art scene is… the support for artists is still lacking. There might be loads of emerging artists like I mentioned, but it’s hard for them to grow. Plus, there’s still a lot of “politics” in the Bangkok art scene, which doesn’t make it any easier.

My favorite art gallery in Bangkok right now is… Bangkok City City Gallery. The curators have designed it with the intention of helping people understand and interact more with art. I love that the art doesn’t just stop at what’s exhibiting, but there are also artsy products you can buy as collector’s items. One thing I love about the Thai art scene is… there are more art spaces around Bangkok, meaning new artists are getting noticed. This is also great for people who’ve been in the industry for a while, it makes them have to stay at the top of their game. One thing I dislike about the Thai art scene is… the lack of value given to art. Sometimes you don’t need to be able to understand it or even like it, but you should give value to it. That’s what we’re still unable to do.

One thing I dislike about the Thai art scene is… that Thai artists are still scared to experiment outside the norm. In this aspect, international artists are way ahead of us. They do a lot of things that stray away from tradition while many Thai artists are still sticking to watercolor and oil paintings. When it comes to graffiti in Thailand, I think it is… getting better. Most adults still think it is vandalism, but a lot of teenagers and young adults are understanding it more and acknowledging it as a serious art form. We need to show everyone that graffiti is art, too. Make graffiti beautiful, not dirty.

THE JIM THOMPSON HOUSE AND ART CENTER The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. Current exhibition:

2012-2555,2556,2557 New York-based Thai artist Korakrit Arunanondchai, whose work has been exhibited at MOMA, Palais de Tokyo and UCCA Ullens Center for Contemporary Art, exhibits a video installation capturing the bridge between social media and pop culture versus Buddhism and other religious symbols.

Through Sep 10 Soi Kasem San 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium

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AROUND THAILAND

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

CHOCOLATE FACTORY

MINI MELLOW

COASTAL COOL

The beachside city of Pattaya’s best new openings.

ACTIVITIES RAMAYANA WATERPARK

CAFES SKOOP BEACH CAFE

Thailand’s biggest waterpark spans 184,000 sq meters (or more than 700 tennis courts) and features more than 50 rides, including a FlowRider wave machine. The adult’s zone also has a pool bar and sports like water volleyball. Book ahead for a 20 percent discount.

Decked out with wooden tables, nauticalstriped cushions and bean-bags, this cute container cafe is all about sweets like waffles, brownies and, our pick, the ice cream sandwiches. Try the dark chocolate chip cookie with dark mocha ice cream or Froot Loops with Bora Bora vanilla ice cream.

9 Moo 7, Na Jomtien, Sattahip, 033-005-929. www.ramayanawaterpark.com

HARBOR PATTAYA The city’s newest beachfront mall puts the focus on fun and healthy activities with highlights including a 10-meter-high rock climbing wall, Jump XL Trampoline Park and The Rink and Snow Land, which will be the largest snow park in Thailand once it opens in October. Top of the food picks is the first Thai branch of Kumkun, a famous fried chicken chain from Korea. 190/25 Moo 9, Pattaya Klang Rd., 081-377-0101. harbor.co.th

Na Jomthien Soi 4, 091-725-4569. Open daily Mon-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat-Sun 10am-9pm. www.fb.com/skoopbeachcafe

MINI MELLOW Opened just in time for Thailand’s hottest season, this tiny cafe deals in sweet icy treats. The main attractions are the soft-serve ice cream (try the milky vanilla or Belgian chocolate) and Japanese-style shaved ice, which you can customize with toppings like banana caramel. Mike Shopping Mall, 262 Moo 10 Pattaya 2nd Rd. Open daily 9:30am-10pm. goo.gl/7GaqkH

CHOCOLATE FACTORY Here you’ll find stunning views of Pratumnak Hill, French pastries and plenty of chocolate treats. Come at sunset for more substantial dishes like grilled Australian lamb rack with

RAMAYANA WATERPARK

rosemary sauce and salmon chae nampla (salmon in fish sauce). 12 Soi Rajchawaroon, Pratamnuk Rd., 092-467-8884. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.chocolatefactory.co.th

TREE TALES PRATUMNAK The health-centric cafe on Naklua Road has rolled out a second branch on Pratumnak Hill. The smaller venue consists of a slightly shorter menu, but you can still get the usual fresh-pressed juices such as the Green Potion (spinach, green apple, fennel and mandarin orange). Aussie-style all-day breakfast is king here—try the Eggs Benny (poached egg, lemon hollandaise sauce, bacon, toast, rocket and radish). Pratumnak Rd., in front of Unixx condominium, 080-044-5598. Open 8am-8pm. www.fb.com/ treetalescafe

NIGHTLIFE SPHERE BAR The luxurious Cape Dara resort just unveiled this futuristic, space-themed bar serving drinks with names like Interstellar and Berry Comet—plus lots of nitrogen. Cape Dara Resort, 256 Dara Beach Soi 20, PattayaNaklua Rd., 038-933-888. Open daily 5pm-2am. www. capedarapattaya.com

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MAY 2016 | BANGKOK

SUKHUMVIT SOI 31-49 Sukhumvit is one very long road (it stretches all the way to Cambodia). But one of its most happening areas is between soi (that’s Thai for streets) 31 and 49, a veritable warren of alleys packed with the city’s best art, crab curry, coffee and sake.

EMQUARTIER

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 18 SUKHUMVIT SOI 31-49

20 CHAROENKRUNG

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EXPLORING

SUKHUMVIT SOI 31-49 Y SPOTLIGHT

Asian Flavors

From vibrant Lao salads to steaming bowls of Japanese ramen, the area is a hotbed of great Asian cuisine.

Thai Lao Yeh Fiery Lao and Northern Thai dishes in an elegant boutique hotel meant to evoke the home of an affluent family living somewhere in 1920s Asia. Just as importantly, all the ingredients feel incredibly fresh and service is impeccable.

@1 Cabochon Bangkok, 14/29 Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-259-2871-3. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10:30pm. BTS Phrom Phong

NEW

DAILY ROAST

Exploring these streets can be thirsty work. Get your caffeine fix at this pop-up coffee shop in the Bhiraj Tower, adjacent to Emquartier shopping mall. Roast (see page 6) is one of Bangkok’s most reliable names in the coffee business, specializing in perfectly poured single origins and house blends. Here you can take your drink to go or pull up a stylish warm wood seat, order an openface tomato and ricotta sandwich and take five. 1 M/F, Bhiraj Tower, Sukhumvit Rd. Open Mon-Sat 8am-7pm SHOPS AND GALLERIES Take the BTS to Phrom Phong station, and either side of the platform you’ll find two huge shopping malls,

shirts. They provide a range of different options, from the buttons to the types of stitching and a huge choice of quality shirt fabrics.

Masato Call ahead and you might nab a cancelled reservation at the hottest sushi restuarant in the city. The chef won a Michelin star at his former NY base.

3/22 Sukhumvit 31 Soi 1, 02-0400015. Open Tues-Sun 5:30-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

LUNCH AND COFFEE

THE ADLER SUBHASHOK GALLERY

EMPORIUM

2 Emquartier (637 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000) and 3 Emporium (622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000). Both are home to some of the world’s top luxury brands, from Prada to Dior. Emporium is also the site of Thailand Creative and Design Center (6/F, The Emporium, 02-664-8448), the country’s leading design museum, where you’ll find rotating exhibitions,

a permanent collection of style icons from the Nintendo Gameboy to the Vespa, and a beautiful library overlooking Benjasiri Park. For exhibitions of contemporary fine art, head to 4 The Adler Subhashok Gallery (160/3 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-6620299), which has ambitions of making Thai art as big as Chinese art 10 years ago. Also in the area is 5 Duly (Sukhumvit Soi 49, 2-6626647), one of the most sophisticated menswear brands in Thailand, selling ready-to-wear formal clothes as well as a tailoring service for suits and

Bankara Ramen CAFFE WHAT IF

For a spot of shopping and a cup of coffee, 6 Caffe What If (The Green Connect, 235/10 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-8048) sells decorative home items, craft beers and savory dishes. Their coffee beans are also excellent. 7 D’Ark (Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi

This ramen favorite is known for its fatty tonkotsu broth, served with perfectly al dente noodles and various forms of intensely flavorful slow-cooked chashu. A cholesterol attack, yes, but definitely worth trying. The three-day-braised pork belly is delicious.

The Manor, 32 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-622-5162/3. Open daily 11am-11pm

49, 02-662-7900) rolls out an all-day

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EXPLORING

SUKHUMVIT SOI 31-49 HEALTH AND WELLNESS For a fun-filled morning in the water, head over to !0 Flow House (A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-1085210), which is home to a giant wave machine that lets you try your hands at stand-up surfing and bodyboarding. Right beside BTS Phrom Phong, KAI YANG SUA YAI

menu that spans pancakes, as well as soups and burgers using local ingredients. Also located in Piman 49 is 8 Kai Yang Sua Yai (02-662-6428), a Thai restaurant specializing in hearty

For Italian, !4 Appia (20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-261-2056) is firmly the city’s safest bet, offering authentically home-style Roman cuisine, from rustic pastas to crispy roast pork. Just around the corner, you’ll find its casual sister, !5 Peppina (27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-119-7677), which does wonderful Naples-style pizza. Right across the street, you’ll find !6 Baa Ga Din (Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-662-3813), doing inventive, malecular takes on Thai street food in laid-back atmosphere. If upscale

out !8 Hanakaruta (36/4 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-7339), one of the best Japanese bars in town. For some fuss-free, seasonal tapas plates that are meant for sharing, !9 Quince (Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478) does a unique twist on pan-European food that aims to place local ingredients center stage. The dining area, trussed out by neighboring Casa Pagoda, brims with a comforting-yetfaddish faux-vintage style, and the Mediterranean-tinged menu is augmented by an inspired wine list and cocktail menu. Right next door, you’ll also find the city’s hottest nightclub, @0 Sing Sing (Sukhumvit Soi 45, 097-285-6888), where international DJs drop by to play in a maximalist, Hollywood-style vision of 1920s Shanghai.

DINOSAUR PLANET

the dinosaur theme park !1 Dinosaur Planet is a must for those traveling with kids (see page 30).

VEGANERIE CONCEPT

Northeastern dishes. For a healthy option drop by 9 Veganerie Concept for vegan pastas and desserts.

DINNER AND DRINKS Whether you want Thai, Western or Japanese, this is the spot to be. !2 Masato (120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-392-4313) is the city’s most in-demand sushi restaurant (see box), while round the corner !3 Harvest dishes out simple rustic comfort food.

ASTON DINING ROOM & BAR

and contemporary is what you’re after, try !7 Aston Dining Room & Bar (68 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-102-2323). Here, you’ll find an inventive fivecourse chef’s table menu using only the best produce. After dinner, check

SING SING

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EXPLORING

CHAROENKRUNG Y CHAROENKRUNG’S

TOP 5 STREET-FOOD STALLS

!8 Kao Kha Mu Charoen Sang Silom This famous (and crowded) spot serves Chinese-style stewed pork knuckle with rice. Come early before it sells out. 02-234-8036. Open daily 8:30am1:30pm

!9 Jok Prince Bangrak

NEW

One of the best congee (rice porridge) in Bangkok—a simple but powerful blend of velvety stewed rice, minced pork and poached egg.

CIAO TERRAZZA

Italian cuisine courtesy of one of Bangkok’s most lauded chefs, a riverside alfresco terrace and the Mandarin Oriental’s iconic Author’s Lounge in the background make this one of the Chao Phraya River’s most easy-to-recommend spots. It’s more casual than the other restaurants at Bangkok’s oldest, most formal hotel (though they’ll still shoo you away if you turn up in shorts), dishing out Italian staples like pappardelle with tender Ferrara-style spare rib stew as well as wood-fired pizzas.

089-795-2629. Open daily 6am12pm, 4pm-9pm

!1 Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Charoenkrung Soi 40, Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. Open daily 6-10:30pm. BTS Saphan Taksin

@0 Prachak Pet Yang

Rumored to have existed for over a century, this place specializes in khao na pet (roasted duck with rice)

tretching along the Eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River, the 150-year-old Charoenkrung Road winds its way through some of the city’s major cultural hubs, from the heritage buildings of upper Silom to the delicious street-food institutions of Chinatown. Thanks to a recent revival of the neighborhoood’s old shop-houses, you’ll also discover a bevvy of cool new bars and art galleries hidden down back streets.

HERITAGE WALK The area between sois 34-44 is rich with architectural attractions. Among them is the 1 Old Customs House (Charoenkrung Soi 36), which dates back to 1880 and was once the trading gateway between Bangkok and the rest of the world. It’s now used as

GENERAL POST OFFICE

the fire brigade’s headquarters. The recently renovated 2 General Post Office building next to Charoenkrung Soi 34 is another unique part of Bangkok’s architectural heritage, and one of the few Art Deco buildings to be found in the city. Religious highlights include the Thai-Chinese 3 Wat Suan Phlu temple (Charoenkrung Soi 42/1), where you can go and pay respect to the Chinese deity Guanyin, and 4 Assumption Cathedral (Charoenkrung Soi 40), a Roman Catholic church dating back to the early 1900s that serves as the place of worship for the Catholic all-boys’ school Assumption College. There’s also a strong Muslim community based around the 5 Haroon Mosque

02-234-3755. Open daily 7am8:30pm

ASSUMPTION CATHEDAL

(Charoenkrung Soi 36). Once the city’s largest wooden mosque, it has since been reconstructed in concrete but remains in keeping with traditional Islamic design.

GALLERIES There are three worthwhile galleries in the 6 O.P. Garden compound (4, 6 Charoenkrung Soi 36, 02-266-0186). The oldest among them is Serindia Gallery (02-238-6410), founded in 2009 by publisher and art enthusiast

JAO LONG LUK CHIN PLA

@1 Jao Long Luk Chin Pla & Jae Lee Luk Chin Pla Located opposite each other, these two restaurants are renowned for their noodles and fish balls. Both are great. Jao Long Luk Chin Pla 02-234-7499. Open daily 6am-9pm Jae Lee Luk Chin Pla 02-234-2791. Open daily 8am-9pm

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EXPLORING

CHAROENKRUNG sic cuisine is still hard to beat. At the same hotel, check out the riverside terrace Ciao Terrazzo for something more casual (see opposite). For a refined Cantonese experience under dripping

made from reclaimed slabs of teak. Though purchasing a table will set you back a six-figure sum, it’s worth dropping by purely for the spectacle, as well as to peer into next door’s !3 Fifty-Five Antiques (02-267-2297), which has some of the most impressive ancient Burmese artefacts in the city. Thanks to the many luxury hotels that line the riverbank, this is one of the best areas in Bangkok for high-end dining. The city’s oldest and, by our reckoning, most atmospheric hotel, the !1 Mandarin Oriental, is home to Le Normandie, which for years set the standard for French fine dining in Bangkok. Its combination of old-school silver service and immaculately plated clas-

SAMBAL

chandeliers, check out Shang Palace at the !4 Shangri-La Hotel, (Charoenkrung Soi 44, 02-236-7777) where you’ll find a la carte dim sum as well as other Chinese favorites like Peking duck and whole suckling pig. In the same hotel, Volti is a stylish option for Italian cuisine, while !5 Sambal at the Royal Orchid Sheraton is a more laidback riverside venue that serves Southeast Asian cuisine with contemporary touches. Also see our pick of Charoenkrung’s best street food eats opposite.

LE NORMANDIE

SHOPPING

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Old Customs House General Post Office Wat Suan Phlu Temple Assumption Cathedral Haroon Mosque O.P. Garden - Serindia Gallery - Modern Gallery - Artha Gallery 7 Speedy Grandma 8 Soy Sauce Factory 9 River City !0 O.P. Place !1 Mandarin Oriental Hotel - Lotus - Marie France Van Damme - Le Normandie - Bamboo Bar - Ciao Terrazza !2 P. Tendercool !3 Fifty-Five Antiques !4 Shangri-La Hotel - Shang Palace - Volti !5 Royal Orchid Sheraton (Sambal) !6 Soulbar !7 Viva & Aviv !8 Kao Kha Mu Charoen Sang Silom !9 Jok Prince Bangrak @0 Prachak Pet Yang @1 Jao Long Luk Chin Pla & Jae Lee Luk Chin Pla 1 2 3 4 5 6

34, 02-237-0077) is a one-stop shopping complex that offers Thai craft, antiques and artwork by local artists. For fine fashion and decorative objects, !0 O.P. Place (Charoenkrung Soi 38, 02-237-4062) is filled with tailor shops, jewelry specialists and Thai handicraft souvenirs from The Chitralada Projects. It’s also worth taking a look at the historic !1 Mandarin Oriental hotel (Charoenkrung Soi 38, 02659-9000), where there are several high-end jewelry and fashion brands including Lotus Arts de Vivre (02236-0400) and Hong Kong-based resort-wear specialist Marie France Van Damme (02-630-9400). Tucked away in a complex of WWII-era warehouses, you’ll find the by-appointmentonly showroom of !2 P.Tendercool (02266-4344), which sells striking tables

Opened back in 1953 but given a stunning renovation not too long ago, the Mandarin Oriental’s !1 Bamboo Bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. To this day, it maintains a moody, lounge-lizard atmosphere made even better thanks to some of the city’s best cocktails (try the barrel-aged XO Sazerac). !6 Soulbar (945 Charoenkrung Rd., 083-092-2266) offers live music of a very different sort, in a casual shophouse kitted out with industrial furnishings. Located right by the Chao Phraya River, !7 Viva & Aviv (B/F, River City Shopping Complex, 23 Yotha Rd, 02639-6305) is an open-air cocktail bar with a subtle (and chic) pirate theme.

The area is well-known for antiques and gemstones, as well as shipping services to help bring your goods home. 9 River City (Charoenkrung Soi

Rd.

Shane Suvikapakornkul. The gallery focuses on Asian cultural artefacts, specifically from the Himalayan region. Next door, Modern Gallery (02-2386449) features work by revered Thai artists like Thawan Duchanee and Chalermchai Kositpipat along with the new generation like Lolay Thaweesak Sritongdee. Right opposite, French gallerist Pascal Billieres’ Artha Gallery (02-630-9489) aims to promote rising Southeast Asian artists from Thailand, Myanmar and Vietnam. If you’re looking for something more edgy, head down to Charoenkrung Soi 28. 7 Speedy Grandma (089-508-3859) is a big favorite of Bangkok’s alt-indie crowd thanks to its regular exhibitions, film screenings and parties. Nearby, 8 Soy Sauce Factory (061-835-6824) is run by the same group of people and focuses on photography exhibitions.

DINING

Surasakg

SPEEDY GRANDMA

NIGHTLIFE

GETTING THERE

Getting to this part of Charoenkrung is easy. Simply take the BTS (Silom line) to Saphan Taksin station. From there you can either explore Charoenkrung by foot or take one of the free hotel boats that shuttle guests from Saphan Taksin pier.

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ThewhereGuide MAY 2016 | BANGKOK

NEW

SUHRING

The debut restaurant of twin German chefs Thomas and Mathias Suhring follows their departure from Mezzaluna, the ultra-fine-dining restaurant at LeBua hotel. It’s been a hot topic among Bangkok’s foodie community. Partly because they’ve opened in partnership with Gaggan Anand— owner of the top restaurant in Asia’s 50 Best two years in a row—and partly because the twins have always cooked superb food. At Suhring, the chefs introduce diners to a different perspective of German food that’s not just about hearty chunks of pork knuckle, sausages and sauerkraut, with tasting menus spread across your choice of seven or nine courses. It’s all served up in a charming midcentury house. 10 Yen Akat Soi 3, 02-287-1799. Open daily 6pm-

midnight

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 23 DINING 26 NIGHTLIFE

28 SHOPPING 29 HEALTH & WELLNESS

30 ATTRACTIONS 31 ART

32 NAVIGATE

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GUIDE

DINING

LADY BRETT (72 COURTYARD) NEW

The highlight of Thonglor’s hip 72 Courtyard is this casual, European tavern-referencing barbecue specialist. Amid tiled walls, rich leather dining chairs and geometric lighting sculptures, the kitchen dishes out things such as tomahawk steak and salt-baked fish alongside delicious and creative veggie dishes like smoked burrata with charred kale, air-dried mullet roe and sourdough toast. The cocktails are also excellent. Predinner, try the Bitter Frenchman (Hennessy V.S, umeshu, Aperol and bitters). 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-7626. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight

Y SPOTLIGHT

Hot Spots BANGKOK’S BEST SUSHI

GINZA SUSHI ICHI

Bangkok’s version of the acclaimed Ginza Sushi Ichi in Tokyo arrived in town promising an unmatched dedication to freshness. Each day the restaurant flies ingredients in from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo, even closing when Japanese holidays will delay the next shipment of fresh goods. Sushi lovers, grab a seat and get your Instagram ready for fresh-from-market omakase, or order a la carte and marvel as the chefs prepare each course in front of you.

FILLETS

LG/F, Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-2500014. BTS Chit Lom. Open Tue-Sun noon-2:30pm; Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun 6-10pm

At Fillets, the omakase (chef’s selection) experience isn’t afraid to break from tradition. The fish still comes five times a week from Tokyo’s most esteemed sellers, but you’ll also find creative touches like cherry blossom marinades and caviar making their way into the elegant pieces of sashimi and sushi. The space also forgoes austere formality with a trip-hop soundtrack and cool decor. In addition to the fresh sushi, there’s wagyu beef and a growing a la carte menu. 3/F, Portico, 31 Lang Suan Rd., 02-041-6056. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 11:30-2:30pm; Sun-Thu 6:3011pm; Fri-Sat 6:30pm-midnight

Ruen Urai

SUSHI HINATA

One of the sushi restaurants that actual sushi chefs patronize, Sushi Hinata specializes in omakase-style service in which the chefs prepare whatever’s fresh that day for the diner at the counter. With branches in Nagoya and Malaysia, Sushi Hinata hopes to make its mark in the Japanese restaurant-heavy dining scene here with its great attention to detail and exemplary ingredients. While dinners can obviously run on the pricey side, lunch sets can glean unexpected bargains.

Tucked down a small alley off Surawong Road, this century-old house showcases a beautiful collection of antiques within its teak structure. Paying homage to its original owner, who was a herbal medicine practitioner, the menu incorporates strong herbs and spices such as green peppercorn, wild ginger, galangal and turmeric. The presentation, too, is incredibly refined: carefully-crafted skewers, bite-size treats atop fresh petals and delicately carved vegetables. 118 Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily noon-11pm

GINZA SUSHI ICHI

SUSHI HINATA

5/F, Central Embassy, Ploenchit Rd., 02-160-5935. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 11am-9pm

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TASTE OF THE CITY

DINING HONG KONG Recent Openings

3NVY

This sweet and savory-focused cafe also boasts one of Bangkok’s most unique dining tables. 1246 Rama 4 Rd., 084-459-6266. www.fb.com/3nvy3nvy

MANA CUISINE

The new nightclub has opened its fusion dining wing. 32/8 Sukhumvit Soi 13, 02-102-0013.

SUHRING

Twin chefs Thomas and Mathias Suhring go back to their German roots. Yen Akat Rd., 02-287-1799. www.facebook. com/SuhringsHome

Advertise your business with us starting from B5,000

ISLERO

A former chef de cuisine from El Bulli helped compose the defiantly Spanish menu at this swish new Wireless Rd. restaurant. Athenee Tower, 63 Wireless Rd., 02-1688100. www.facebook.com/Islero Bangkok

Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Credit card payment accepted.

24 W H E R E T H A I L AND I DECEMB ER 2 0 1 1 I www.wheretraveler.com

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GUIDE

DINING NORTHEASTERN (ISAAN) RESTAURANTS

SUSHI MASATO

While working as head chef at New York’s Jewel Bako, Japan-native Masato Shimizu became the youngest chef in NYC ever to win a Michelin star at just 29. Now he’s moved to Bangkok and opened this omakase (chef’s selection) sushi restaurant serving just 20 diners a night. Having trained from the age of 18-25 in Tokyo’s toughest kitchens, the results are superb. Reservations are essential long in advance, but call and you might get a lucky cancellation.

3/22 Sawasdee Soi 1, 02-040-0015. Open Tue-Sun 5:30-10pm

SUSHI MASATO

TAMA SUSHI

Tucked on the mezzanine floor above Karatama Robatayaki, Tama Sushi is helmed by chef Seiji Sudo, previously head chef of the Bangkok branch of Ginza Sushi Ichi (see page 23), who here serves up something far different. Offering what’s known as a “Sushi Sho style” omakase experience, the prettily-plated, delectable courses aren’t limited to a sequence of nigiri but rather switch in items like conch, iwashi roll, grilled mixed rice with hairy crab meat and uni and Seiji’s signature sushi soup.

Kai Yang Sua Yai This colorful shop-house transports the Northeastern dishes of an old street-food favorite into a proper dining setting. Tuck into a whole chicken, along with namprik pla ra (chili paste with fermented fish) and somtam poo (papaya salad with freshwater crab). Wash it down with Singha, fruit juice or wine by the glass. They offer about 15 vegetarian dishes, too. Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-6428. Open daily 11am-10pm. TAMA SUSHI

M/F, Piman 49, 46/10 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 091-8710666. Open Tue-Sun 6-10:30pm

Somtum Der Not far from the bustle of Silom Road, the restaurant brings typical street food into a modern shop-house setting. The menu focuses on somtam and other classic Northeastern dishes. Not as sweet as Bangkokians usually like their somtam, the flavors here are particularly authentic. Do try the pork skewers marinated in coconut milk and the wonderful deep-fried minced pork balls. Their martinis are also a highlight. 5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. MRT Silom. Open daily 11am-2pm, 4:30-10pm.

Tor Um Tum This trendy Isaan joint used to be an oldies’ favorite before it got this fresh look to appeal to a younger crowd. The owners are the same however, and the food remains authenic. Try the classic somtam Thai (B40), to be shared with a plate of laab ped (spicy minced duck salad) and yam nuea yang (spicy grilled beef salad). And spicy somtam deserves a beer to go with it—we recommend Beerlao. Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02-714-3798. BTS Ekkamai.

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE NEW

TRACK 17

Styled to look like a vintage wood-paneled railway carriage, the space plays up its 1920s Orient-Express vibe with a narrow corridor where you can quite imagine women in lace dresses and men in tuxedos boarding with their travel trunks. An amazing mixing bar sits at the back, surrounded by trunks, frames, globes and maps to set the mood. Enter the “carriage” and take your seat in one of the upright booths over by the windows to enjoy drinks like the 20th Century (gin, carpano bianco vermouth, creme de cacao and lemon juice). The Commons, 355 Thonglor Soi 17, 02-101-4525. Open daily 6pm-midnight

Hot Spots

BEST JAZZ BARS

BROWN SUGAR

This place ranks as one of Bangkok’s best jazz bars for a reason. The Phra Sumen institution offers classic Western comfort food and cocktails, and live performances by quality local jazz bands dominated by finalists of The Voice Thailand like Tissue Paper and Attention Please. Performances run from 8:30pm from Tue-Sun.

‘

Y SPOTLIGHT

469 Phra Sumen Rd., 08-1805-7759. Open daily 5pm-1am. BAMBOO BAR

BAMBOO BAR

Opened back in 1953, this hotel bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. Singers take the mic at 9pm daily, accompanied by music from a baby grand and surrounded by framed portraits of jazz legends who’ve passed through over the years. What’s more, the bar also does some of the best cocktails in town, whether its signature classics like the Mekhong rum-laced Thaijito or elaborate, molecular concoctions like the Raspberry Nitrogen Sorbet. 1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoen Krung Soi 40 (Oriental Ave.), 02-659-9000. BTS Saphan Taksin. Open Sun-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am

BROWN SUGAR

SOULBAR

This straightforward but stylish bar does just what you’d hope for. Live soul and funk bands fill the tiny front room every Tue-Sat, often continuing the party after the shutters come down. Friday is the night to aim for, when local soul-jazz fusion band The Lowdowns head the stage. Come with an empty stomach, too—you’ll always find a food truck parked outside serving anything from Vietnamese sandwiches to tacos. 945 Charoen Krung Rd., 095-521-1541. MRT Hua Lamphong. Open Tue-Sat 6pm-midnight

SOUL BAR

Revolucion Cocktail This colorful Latin-American-themed bar, with other venues in Shanghai, Guangzhou and Xiemen, is the most lively spot in this chic enclave of cocktail bars and restaurants. The specialty is both classic cocktails like mojito and Moscow Mule, as well as reinvented signatures like the Aged Negroni (gin, Martini Rosso, Campari, fresh strawberry, blueberry, orange, passion fruit and soda). There’s also an interesting selection of tapas dishes. 50 Sathorn Soi 10, 02-041-6056. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 6pm-2am

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE BEST RIVERSIDE BARS

SAXOPHONE

One of the city’s longest-standing music institutions, the pub is best known for its jazzy offerings led by Koh Mr. Saxman. However, a dose of solid reggae can be heard here too. Just swing by on Fri and stick around long (and late) enough for Thailand’s godfathers of reggae, TBone, to take to the stage (every Fri night, from midnight-1:30am).

3/8 Phaya Thai Rd., 02-245-3592. BTS Victory Monument. Open daily 6pm-2am THE LIVING ROOM BANGKOK

With regular international guests of the highest caliber, this hotel bar is one of the most serious jazz institutions in town. There’s also a free-flow drinks deal for B1,300 from 8pm-11pm.

BABBLE&RUM

Babble & Rum The main restaurant (ground floor) and bar (second floor) of this welcoming riverside hotel next to Phra Arthit Pier are decorated like a contemporary French cafe, finished in dark woods, mirrors and leather-clad couches. An outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area make it the perfect spot for a chilled night out. The menu features Thai and inter-comfort food and plenty of cocktails. Try the Jelly Riva (vodka, melon syrup, lime juice on top).

THE LIVING ROOM BANGKOK

Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8353. BTS Asok. Open daily 9am-midnight SAXOPHONE

1/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Athit Rd., 02-633-5000. Open daily 6:30am-10:30pm

Sala Rattanakosin Eatery & Bar It might be a boutique hotel, but half of this fourstory renovated shop-house is dedicated to wining and dining in full view of the riverside’s star attraction, Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn). Pull up a seat on the outdoor terrace to feast on a menu that goes down two routes: one, elegantly plated Thai classics and regional specialties; the other, Western bistro food like crispy pork belly and tuna tatare. For us though, the highlight is its rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping a great selection.

LUXX

Sala Rattanakosin Hotel, Maharaj Rd., 02-622-1388. Open daily 7-10:30am, 11am-4:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm

The Deck Book in advance to get one of the best spots at this hotly in-demand restaurant right across the water from the Chao Phraya’s star attraction, Wat Arun. The menu of classic Thai dishes like beef massaman curry with roti and pad Thai is of a bankable standard, but you can also trust in their European grill dishes such as the New Zealand tenderloin or roasted rack of lamb. Spread over two alfresco stories, we recommend you request the top tier to get the perfect river view as the backdrop to your meal. Arun Residence, 36-38 Soi Phatu Nokyung, Maharaj Rd., 02-221-9158/9. Open Mon-Thu 11am-10pm; FriSun 11am-11pm

Viva Aviv Pirate chic meets industrial charm at this alwayspopular riverside watering hole. Old wooden crates form the bar, with lobster traps accessorizing the walls and sailboat hardware hanging from the ceiling. Soak up the river view and enjoy bistrostyle food and inventive, well-made cocktails like the Pina Colasi (Appleton Jamaican rum, fresh pineapple, orange and black pepper syrup, citrus and fresh young coconut foam). B/F, River City Shopping Complex, 23 Yotha Rd., 02-639-6305. Open daily 11am-midnight

SILOM +662 635 8800 reservations@staywithluxx.com LANGSUAN +662 684 1111 reservationsxl@staywithluxx.com

www.staywithluxx.com

stay with LUXX in bangkok

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GUIDE

SHOPS+SERVICES NEW

METTIQUE

On top of this local leather label’s beautiful, ready-to-buy bags and accessories you can also make use of their exclusive customization services which allow you to pick your choice of leather, colors, engravings and patterns. Brand creative director Met Hengtrakul’s family comes from a long history of leather-makers, which you can really tell from the quality of Mettique’s totes, briefcases, duffle and crossbody bags in exotic leathers like South African ostrich, Italian buffalo and crocodile. Other items include laptop covers, iPhone cases and bow-ties. 2/F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1114. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-10pm

Hot Spots

BEST LUXURY MALLS

CENTRAL EMBASSY

The Phloen Chit area’s luxury mall dedicates eight floors to retail shops from some of the world’s most exciting fashion brands, including Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin and Jil Sander. Food-wise there are a host of high-end local restaurants alongside popular eateries from around the world, such as dessert bar Chikalicious from New York and French patisserie Paul. There’s also a deluxe cinema on the sixth floor, where you can lie down under a duvet and enjoy a glass of wine.

This new shopping mall is part of a B20 billion restyling of the Phrom Phong area as EM District, a development of premium hotels, offices, residences and entertainment facilities. The result is packed with high-end boutiques including flagship stores from MCM, Jimmy Choo, Valentino, Sephora and A Bathing Ape, plus cult Asian brands Stylenanda (Korea) and Beams (Japan). As a bonus, the striking development also features a spiralling tower of restaurants, 40-meter-high man-made waterfall and plenty of green space. The EmDistrict, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am-10pm

1031 Ploenchit Rd., 02-119-7777. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 10am-10pm

SIAM PARAGON

Bangkok’;s original ultra-luxury mall has yet to fade from the spotlight thanks to its prime location in the city’s biggest hub for shopping and next to the one of the busiest BTS stations. The towering glass facade contains a huge selection of clothing stores, from Hermes and Chanel to trendy favorites like H&M and Zara, as well as a wide array of restaurants and a huge food court. Entertainment spots include a bowling alley, an IMAX cinema, an outdoor concert venue, and Siam Ocean World, Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium.

Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm

THE EMQUARTIER

GAYSORN

One of the most compact malls in the center of Bangkok, it is nonetheless home to numerous luxury international fashion labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Celine) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial. Pick up locally crafted gifts from Jim Thompson and Alexander Lamont or indulge at the Panpuri Spa. There are also a couple of reliable cafes and the atmosphere is rather serene compared to some of its retail neighbors. 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1149. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-8pm

Y SPOTLIGHT

THE EMQUARTIER

THE EMPORIUM

Set in the heart of Bangkok’s upscale residential area (and home to the city’s largest Japanese community), the city’s foremost luxury mall offers shopping without crowds, largely due to upscale tenants like Hermes, Louis Vuitton and Dior. As well as high-end brands, you’ll also find some of the best Thai designers like Jaspal, Disaya and Greyhound. The upper floors house plenty of eating options as well as a cinema and the excellent art and design library, TCDC.

622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am-10pm

OTOP HERITAGE One of a number of Thai craft shops under The One Tambon One Product (OTOP) brand, this store specializes in luxury items produced in Thailand. It features more than a thousand handicraft products selected from different producers around country, most of them home decorative items and fashion accessories. Other OTOP sites include OTOP The Walking Street in Silom (02-635-7061) and OTOP The Avenue (096-231-2843) in Ramintra. 4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd., 02-160-5975. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 10am-8pm

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GUIDE

HEALTH + WELLNESS

AMPED BANGKOK NEW

Traveling all the way from Singapore, the city’s latest trampoline park joins the gym community Training Ground—one of the biggest fitness facilities in Asia. The atmosphere at Amped however is very relaxed, whether you’re visiting to play around on the trampolines or to get a serious workout. It’s split between a public zone and three private rooms for group sessions and events. Chavanich Building, 36/3 Sukhumvit Soi 69, 02-136-7858. BTS Phra Khanong

Hot Spots UNIQUE SPA EXPERIENCES

At this holistic spa, layers and layers of imported Himalayan salt line an artificial cave in which guests come to be treated of common city sicknesses like asthma, allergies and insomnia. Spend an hour on one of their lounge chairs inside the dimly-lit, temperature-controlled cave while the salt (which has been scientifically proven to carry the ability to remove dust, pollen and other contaminants from your lungs due to its polarity) naturally cleans out your respiratory system. 30/15 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02 259 2288. Open daily 10am-7pm

I.SAWAN RESIDENTAL SPA

AKA FOREVER YOUNG

I.SAWAN RESIDENTIAL SPA & CLUB

When celebrated Taiwanese designer Tony Chi created this club-style hotel spa, he made it one of Bangkok’s most beautiful wellness retreats. The indoor-outdoor setting feels more like a jungle resort than a city spa, featuring six residential spa cottages, nine treatment bungalows, a hair salon and a nail bar—not to mention a modern fitness center, squash and tennis courts plus a 25-meter pool. Treatments include full day, Retreats, half-day, Escapes and a huge variety of facial, full-body and massage options. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 6am-11pm

KASHIKIRI SODA ONSEN

Located a little bit out of the city center, this Japanese-style spa offers private onsen tubs and a full line of spa treatments, from traditional Thai massage to body scrubs, manicure and pedicure. It’s designed to look like a traditional onsen house, with all the equipment and onsen salt imported from Japan. For somewhere so stylish, the prices are also well below what you’ll find in the center of town. THETA STATE FLOAT CENTER

THETA STATE FLOAT CENTER

84 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 081 268 4624. Open daily 9:30am-10:30pm

Y SPOTLIGHT

Theta refers to a state of mind where brain activity slows almost to the point of sleep; a trance-like state typified by heightened receptivity and creative inspiration. At this spa you’ll find two futuristic float pods and two float rooms that promise to achieve exactly this. Both types of chamber are soundproof and lightproof, filled with around 25 centimeters of dense, skin-temperature Epsom saltwater, which allows you to float effortlessly on the surface (just like the Dead Sea), removing all body pressure points in the process. 24th Ave. Mall, 88/1 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-2617943. Open Tue-Sun 10am-10pm

ONSEN SKY SPA

Looking a little like something out of 1980s Tokyo, this low-key, rooftop health complex combines a sushi restaurant, fitness center, salon, bar and onsen. Open until the unusual hour of 2am, unlimited use of its onsen (hot and cold bath), sauna and Jacuzzi is priced at B400 per day. Other services include Thai massage, aroma massage and anti-cellulite slimming massage. The rooftop bar is also a pretty chill place to have a pint of draught Asahi after your treatment.. Silom Plaza, 491/43-44 Silom Rd., 02-233-6666. Open daily noon-2am

Wat Pho Located next to the Grand Palace, this is one of the oldest temples in Bangkok, home to the 43-meter-long reclining Buddha and credited as the birthplace of Thai massage. The temple massage school still runs today, meaning visitors can get some of the most authentic massage anywhere in the city. They also run short courses for anyone who’d like to learn for themselves. Sanam Chai Rd., 02-255-4771. Open daily 8am-6pm

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GUIDE

ATTRACTIONS DINOSAUR PLANET NEW

The scale and quality of this attraction in the heart of Bangkok is beyond anything we’ve ever seen here. That doesn’t mean you should expect Universal Studios, but this 500-million-baht theme park is definitely world-class. The focus is on dinosaurs, which translates to a lot of very cool animatronic, life-sized reptiles bobbing their heads and blinking at you with their doey eyes. Beyond the selfie opportunities, you can climb onto the Dino Eye for a rather unimpressive view (given that the surrounding buildings are taller than the ferris wheel), watch a “4D” film, or get chased about by guys in raptor suits. 554/1 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-833-2209. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am-10pm

Hot Spots BEST MUSEUMS

KAMTHIENG HOUSE MUSEUM

Opened to the public in 1952 by its former royal residents, this complex of eight Thai-style houses was Thailand’s first public museum. I showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period that belonged to Prince and Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga, as well as artifacts from the collection of King Chulalongkorn’s son.

131 Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-661-6470. Open Tue-Sat 9am5pm

352-354 Sri Ayutthaya Rd., 02-246-1775-6 ext 229.. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm

BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM

SUAN PAKKAD

Tucked away in the bustling Asoke area is a beautiful Thai house that was given to the Siam Society under the Royal Patronage in 1963. The museum specializes in exhibits of traditional rural Thai life, mainly Nothern lanna culture, and displays artifacts such as farming tools, weaving loomsand pest traps made from bamboo and rattan.

Y SPOTLIGHT

BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM

This compound of four wooden houses dating back to 1937 offers a fascinating insight into the lifestyle of an upper-class Bangkok family. The different buildings are filled with elegant furniture and ornaments from the Rattanakosin era and the reign of King Rama V (1868-1910), and make for a charming few hours’ exploration, as do the well-kept gardens kept cool by the river breeze.

Charoen Krung Soi 43, 02-233-7027. Open Wed-Sun 10am-4pm

VIMANMEK

First-time visitors will most likely already be in awe of the beautiful garden inside the palace gates, but step inside the colossal mansion and you’ll realize you can easily spend a whole day here, walking around the 31 exhibition rooms and taking in some of Thailand’s most prized photographs and artifacts, as well as King Rama V’s personal belongings ranging from elegant antique furniture to rare foreign memorabilia. But it isn’t just the museum’s displays that will catch your eye—the gorgeous teak structre itself boasts a great deal of colonial charm.

16 Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300. Open Tue-Sun 9:30am-3pm

QUEEN SIRIKIT MUSEUM

QUEEN SIRIKIT MUSEUM OF TEXTILES

Located right next to the Grand Palace, this museum tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand. Highlights include the queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading international designers. Entry fee is included in the Grand Palace fee. If you only want to visit this museum, it’s B150 per person for adults. Inside the main visitor’s gate at the Grand Palace, Na Phra Lan Rd., 02-225-9430. Open daily 9am-3:30pm

Sea Life Bangkok Ocean World Tucked in the basement of Siam Paragon, Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium is home to over 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. The aquarium also offers family-friendly interactive activities such as diving with the sharks, 5D cinema experiences, creature feeding, backof-house visits and even real ocean walks in wetsuits. Be sure to check activity times prior to your visit. We also recommend making advanced reservations, as there are limited spots for each activity per day. B1-B2/F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-687-2000. Siam. Open daily 10am-8pm

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GUIDE

ART

NATIONAL MUSEUM The charming front hall of the National Museum has recently undergone a stunning renovation to showcase the museum's most beautiful Buddhist treasures in a single room. Formerly the viceroy's palace, the National Museum is a must-see complex of traditional Thai structures. The front hall itself is highlighted by a monumental Buddha head from the Ayutthaya period that overlooks the whole exhibition space, while a stunningly graceful bronze Bodhisattva from the Srivijaya period takes center stage amid Khmer and Hindu sculptures. You'll also find carefully-kept smaller pieces ranging from Buddhist art to delicate Rattanakosin-era puppets. 4 Na Phrathat Rd., 02-224-1333. Open Wed-Sun and national holidays 9am-4pm

Hot Spots TOP EXHIBITIONS THIS MONTH

OMNIVOYEUR AND ELECTRICAL WALKS

This electromagnetic sound and visual project by Christina Kubisch and Miti Ruangkritya captures ambient sounds from around the city which are inaudible to the naked ear. Through Jul 10, BACC (Bangkok Art and Culture Center), 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630-8. BTS National Stadium

ASYLUM SEEKER: THE POND AND THE FIREFLIES

NO HUMAN ART

Prapat Jiwarangsan's latest art installation uses the ongoing conflict of Thai politics and the country's social changes as the backdrop for his own self-discovery.

A group exhibition by 15 renowned Thai artists including Suwat Saenkatiyarat, Nipon Jungkina, Sippavich Pholsingh, Somyot Kumsang and more, who showcase their works exploring animal instincts in humans.

Through May 15, The Jam Factory, 41/1-41/2 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-861-0950

Through May 10, Sathorn 11 Art Space, 404 Sathorn Soi 11., 085-251-6672. BTS Surasak

THE SOUTHEAST ASIA MOVIE THEATER PROJECT

Y SPOTLIGHT

Philip Jablon presents his ongoing photographic documentation of the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s remaining, but rapidly disappearing, stand-alone movie theaters, emphasizing the modernization taking over the region.

Through May 29, H Gallery, 201 Sathorn Soi 12, 085-021-5508. BTS Chong Nonsi

OMNIVOYEUR

UNNOTICED LIGHT

For his first solo exhibition in Bangkok, Wriya Chotepanyawisoot plays with ultraviolet rays to produce a series of complex photographs using old cyanotype techniques. In turn, he captures small elements of the environment that are invisible to the naked eye to express various poetic narratives.

Through May 19, Schemata Gallery, 1/F, Liberty Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 088-088-8066

THE SOUTHEAST ASIA

Museum Siam This completely restored colonial-style building is now an innovative, tchnology-driven musuem that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanam Chai Rd., 02-225-2777 Open Tue-Sun 10am6pm. www.museumsiam.org

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

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Victory Monument Í¹ØàÊÒÇÃÕÂ

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7 Tha Chang ·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹ÒªŒÒ§

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Phetchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ªÃºØÃÕ

Ratchathewi ÃÒªà·ÇÕ

National Stadium Ê¹ÒÁ¡ÕÌÒ áË‹§ªÒµÔ

Makkasan ÁÑ¡¡ÐÊÑ¹

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Queen Sirikit National Conv. Centre ÈÙ¹Â »ÃÐªØÁ áË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Phra Khanong ¾ÃÐâ¢¹§

Yaowarat Rd.

Tha Tien ·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹ÒàµÕÂ¹

Ratcha wong ·‹ÒàÃ×Í ÃÒªÇ§¤

Sam Yan ÊÒÁÂ‹Ò¹

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1 Asiatique the Riverfont

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2 Chatuchak Market

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BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

3 Vimanmek Mansion

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumphini Park

MRT

5 Khao San Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

!5 Siam Paragon

River/Klong (canal)

7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

!6 CentralWorld and Zen

8 Wat Pho

!7 Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

9 Wat Arun

!8 Central Chidlom, Central Embassy

Pier

On Nut Í‹Í¹¹Øª

FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

32 W H E R E T H A I L AND I MAY 2 0 1 6

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130. The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 MAY 2016 I W HER E THA ILA N D 33

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok AKARAT AKWISARN

1 Taking in the contemporary art exhibitions at 100 Tonson, the beautiful central gallery designed by Christian Liaigre. See page 11.

7 Hanging out with the city’s coolest locals and expats at Smalls, a laidback cocktail lounge set in a corner shop-house. See page 27.

!2 Visiting Southeast Asia’s largest !7 Removing all body pressure points

2 Spending a cultural day at Vimanmek Palace, where spectacular teak architecture houses the royal museums of photography, textiles, silk and clocks. See page 30.

8 Spending a fun day of exercise at Bangkok’s latest trampoline park, Amped, which houses a 10,000-sqfoot playground that both kids and adults can enjoy. See page 30.

!8 Heading across the river to Jam !3 Spending a cultural day at Factory, a complex of old warehouses

3 Getting a tension-relieving Thai 9 Watching the sun set over Wat massage at the spiritual home of the art, Wat Pho, also home to the 46-meter-long reclining Buddha. See page 29.

Arun while eating the delicious Thai food at the riverside hotel Sala Rattanakosin. See page 26.

aquarium, Sea Life Bangkok Ocean World, home to over 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. See page 30.

Kamthieng House Museum, which exhibits aspects of traditional rural Thai life and artifacts such as farming tools, weaving looms and pest traps. See page 30.

!4 Going back in time at Dinosaur

!0 Making an appointment to visit 4 Stocking up on Thai handicraft Yenakart Villa, a new multi-purpose

Planet, home to eight massive zones of dino-related theme park rides, 4D visual experiences and the Dino Eye Ferris wheel. See page 30.

souvenirs from across the country at OTOP Heritage. See page 28.

!5 Shopping for luxury labels from

art space in the Sathorn area. See page 31.

the likes of Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford,

at Theta State Float Center’s soundproof and lightproof relaxation chambers. See page 29.

turned into galleries and restaurants. See page 9.

!9 Visiting our favorite Isaan-style street food specialist, Somtum Der, whose second branch in New York’s East Village won a Michelin star. See page 8. @0 Indulging in fresh sushi and sashimi flown in straight from the famous Japanese Tsukiji Market and prepared by master Chef Yoshiki Yamada at Sushi Hinata. See page 23.

5 Sipping on the barrel-aged cock- !1 Soaking up the riverside view while Christian Louboutin and Jil Sander at tails at Bangkok’s oldest jazz institution, Bamboo Bar. See page 26,

sipping a strong cocktail at Viva & Aviv, a pirate-themed bar on Charoenkrung Road. See page 26,

6 Admiring the work of established and emerging Thai and international artists at Bangkok Art & Culture Centre. See page 10.

Central Embassy. See page 28

@1 Enjoying drinks and music from live DJs at Revolucion, the colorful

!6 Sitting back and letting the young- Latin-American-themed bar that est chef ever to win a Michelin Star in NYC take over the meal, omakase style, at Sushi Masato. See page 25.

takes pride in its classic cocktails and delicious tapas. See page 8.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

34 W H E R E T H AILAND I MAY 2 0 1 6

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Where to find Hotels in Bangkok The AETAS Bangkok All Seasons Bangkok Siam Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11 Amari Watergate Amara Bangkok Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa Arnoma Baan Noppawong Bally’s Studio Suites Banyan Tree Bangkok Best Western Sukhumvit Cabochon Hotel & Residence Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Centara Grand at Central World Centara Hotels & Resorts Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok Conrad Bangkok Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Dusit Thani Bangkok Emporium Suites Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Four Points by Sheraton Four Seasons Bangkok GLOW Pratunam Grand Hyatt Erawan Grand Mercure Park Avenue Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Holiday Inn Silom Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 Hotel Muse Imperial Queens Park InterContinental Bangkok JW Marriott Bangkok The Landmark Bangkok Le Fenix Sukhumvit LIT Bangkok Luxx Majestic Grande Mandarin Hotel Mandarin Oriental Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit 57

WHERE DISTRIBUTION LIST_MAY_2016.indd 35

where Thailand

Hotels in Other Provinces

Dean & Deluca

Miracle Grand Convention

Anantara Rasananda Koh Phangan Villa

The Australian Pub & BBQ

Montien Riverside

Resort & Spa

Yunomori Onsen & Spa

Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit Sukhumvit

Chandara Resort

Pizza Romana Pala

Novotel Bangkok Siam Square

Conrad Koh Samui

La Grande Perle

Novotel Bangkok Impact

Dara Samui Beach Resort & Spa Villa

Kuppadeli

Oaks Bangkok Sathorn

Dusit D2 Baraquda Pattaya

Kalpapruek

The Okura Prestige Bangkok

Dusit Thani Krabi Beach resort

Jim Thompson Restaurant

Park Plaza Sukhumvit

Grand Mercure Phuket Patong

Viva & Aviv

Pathumwan Princess

Hyatta Regency HuaHin

Mandarin Oriental At Paragon

The Peninsula Bangkok

InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam

Phachara Suites

JW Marriott Khao Lak Resort & Spa

Plaza Athénée Bangkok

JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa

Pullman Bangkok King Power

Le Méridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa

Radisson Blu Plaza

Renaissance Koh Samui Resort & Spa

Radisson Suites Bangkok

Renaissance Phuket Resort & Spa

Ramada Encore Bangkok

Santiburi Resort

Ramada Plaza Menam Riverside

Shangri-La Chiang Mai

Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong

Sheraton HuaHin Resort & Spa

Riva Surya

Sofitel So Huahin

Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers

Tamarind Village Chiang Mai

Siam Kempinski Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit

Serviced Apartments

The Berkeley Hotel

Adelphi Forty-Nine

The Continent Hotel Bangkok

Courtyard Marriott

Mercure & Ibis Bangkok Siam The Metropolitan Bangkok Millennium Hilton

Shangri-La Bangkok

The Davis Bangkok The Eugenia Hotel & Spa

Shopping Malls

The Siam

CentralWorld

Siam @ Siam Design Hotel & Spa

The Emporium Department Complex

Sivatel Bangkok

Peninsula Plaza

Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit

The River City Shopping Complex

Sofitel So Bangkok The St. Regis Bangkok

Others

The Sukhothai Bangkok

Uber Black limousines

Swissotel Le Concorde Swissotel Nai Lert Park VIE Hotel Bangkok ViVa Garden W Hotel Bangkok The Westin Grande Sukhumvit

Elemis Spa at The St. Regis Bangkok The Kiwi Bangkok Sports Pub & Grill

Where reaches over 100,000 visitors each month. For sales enquiries, contact advertising@ asia-city.co.th or call 02-6249638.

TAT Tourist Information Counter at Suvarnabhumi Airport (arrivals) Chao Phraya Express Boats Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) Blue Elephant Restaurant Devarana Spa

4/21/16 3:12 PM

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