Where® Thailand June 2016

Thailand

PLUS

JUNE 2016 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

®

WWW.WHE R E T H A I L A N D.C O M

LES CLEFS D’OR THAIL AND

THE PREFERRED PUBLICATION OF YOUR HOTEL CONCIERGE

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We provide inside & outside massage service 24 hour 7 Days/week

What a great way to end a hectic day of travel, work or sightseeing

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❀ Foot Massage & Foot Scrub

999 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Traditional Thai Massage

999 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Oil/Aromatherapy Oil Massage

999 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ 4 Hands Massage

1,499 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Thai Massage & Body Scrub

1,499 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Aromatherapy Oil & Body Scrub

1,499 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ 4 Hands Massage & Body Scrub

1,999 THB/ 2 Hrs

Call us to schedule your appointment at

Address: 6/9 Soi Phom Sri 1, Sukhumvit 39 Klongton-Nua, Wattana Bangkok 10110

Mobile. 082-111-2213, Tel. 02-662-6623.

www.baanthaitouch.com. Nearest BTS: Phom Phong Station

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CONTENTS where

®

l THAILAND l JUNE 2016

The Guide BANGKOK 25 DINING Hip restaurants taking Thai flavors in exciting new directions.

BOUTIQUE BANGKOK

The city's coolest shops for innovative local design.

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28 NIGHTLIFE

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Rooftop bars that will take your breath away.

29 HEALTH+WELLNESS The city's most luxurious spa treatments.

DINING

30 ATTRACTIONS Live shows that offer a true taste of Thai culture.

12 BIG BREAKFAST Bangkok's best places to eat the most important meal of the day.

31 ART

AROUND THAILAND

This month's must-visit exhibitions and galleries.

16 NEW WAVE

The latest seaside attractions in Hua Hin.

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33 NAVIGATE Essential tips on getting around.

EXPLORING 20 UPPER SILOM This bustling business district has it all, from fresh markets and galleries to some of Bangkok's finest dining.

ALSO INSIDE 4

22 CHINATOWN The crumbling streets of Yaowarat are home to Bangkok's best street food plus happening new bars and galleries.

Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon

Deputy Art Director Panita Thiraphapong

Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grégoire Glachant

Where Designer Wariya Whangwaewklang Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Lily Kittisrikangwan, Natcha Saguankiattichai, Bonnie Sananvatananont

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Features Associate Monruedee Jansuttipan Marketing Executive Plaifon Chienvichai Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dith Chang

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Account Manager Suda Angsuputiphant Intern Joseph Lam

HOT DATES

34 21 THINGS WE LOVE Where Thailand is proud to be an associated publication of the Thailand Chapter of Les Clefs d'Or (the International Concierge Association).

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@ Morris.Com

MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Cover by Panita Thiraphapong

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, Room A, 100 North Sathorn Rd. Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

www.wherethailand.com

@where_thailand

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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HOT DATES

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

JUNE 11

ON THE ROAD

One of the city’s biggest EDM festivals, Road to Ultra, this year welcomes Avicii, known for his massive hits “Wake Me Up” and “Hey Brother”, and Martin Garrix, the DJ behind “Turn Up the Speakers” and “Forbidden Voices.” The two will be joined by other big EDM names including Jauz, Sunnery James & Ryan Marciano, Ninegod and Skinny Mark & Zuper L. Tickets are B2,400, available now at thailand.roadtoultra.com. BITEC

JUNE 2

JUNE 10-12

JUNE 16-19

JUNE 10-19

Damien Rice, the popular Irish singer/ songwriter known for his soulful voice and stripped-down, emotional performances, takes the Bangkok stage to promote his latest album, My Favorite Faded Fantasy. Aside from new hits, expect fan favorites including “Cannonball” and “The Blower’s Daughter”.

Urban Eatery is a wildly popular Bangkok foodie fair specializing in campfire favorites, steaks and hot dogs. When it takes over the grounds of one of the city’s most popular malls, expect not just food but also stalls selling fashion and handicrafts items, plus plenty of live music and workshops.

Tickets are B1,000-3,000 from Thaiticketmajor.com. Bangkok Convention Hall, Central Lad Phrao, 1695 Phaholyothin Rd.

CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom

The American-Japanese magician Cyril Takayama made a name for himself through viral videos on Youtube and has come to be known as magic’s first cyber celebrity. Now, he takes over the Bangkok stage for Cyril Magic Up Close & Personal Live in Bangkok, an act filled with worldclass magic acts that are guaranteed to leave you in disbelief.

The Bangkok Gay and Lesbian Film Festival returns for its second edition this month at one of the city’s most luxurious cinemas. Under the theme “Love Wins”, 12 films from around the world will be screened across 10 days, including Handl Klaus’ 2016 Tomcat, Lee Dong Ha’s 2015 Weekends, Andrew Ahn’s 2016 Spa Night, Ara Chawdhury’s 2015 Miss Bulalacao, in a promotion of sexual equality and gender rights.

O BOY

HUNGER BUSTER

A KIND OF MAGIC

Tickets are B1,500-4,800 from Thaiticketmajor.com. K-Bank Siam Theater, Siam Square One, Rama 1 Rd., 02-257-2899. BTS Siam

GENDER PERSPECTIVES

Quartier Cineart, Emquartier, Sukhumvit Soi 24. BTS Phrom Phong

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SHOPPING

THAILAND

BY DESIGN

Eighteen great shops in Bangkok to find unique gifts from Thai designers.

By Vasachol Quadri

ROSEMAN This eyewear brand’s products are designed in Bangkok but made in Japan. The multilabel shop also features fashion items handpicked by the owners from all over the world.

Good for: Quality, unisex sunglasses with pocket-friendly price-tags plus some hardto-find items from cult international names like Australian menswear brand W.G. Trunk Co. and Japan’s Makoto Matsuo.

1497 Rama 4 Soi 11 (Chulalongkorn), 081-4442642. Open Wed-Sun noon- 8pm. www.rosemanclub.com

STATEMENT This bright white multi-label store gathers a number of fresh-faced Thai designers who don’t yet have their own showrooms.

They also offer cold brew coffee, granola and cocktails (on weekends).

Good for: The focus is definitely on womenswear, from smart-casual to night looks, with brands including Pin & Tux and Anaman, while there are also mobile accessories from Another Case, leather bags from Chatt Material, aromatic candles from Ma Chandelle and a small selection of Rams men’s accessories STATEMENT

Thonglor Soi 11, 02-003-6973. Open Sun-Thu 11am-10pm; Fri-Sat 11am-midnight. www.facebook. com/statementofficialbkk

ZETTINO Located opposite La Monita restaurant in Mahatun Plaza, this men’s accessories shop began life as an online leatherware store before expanding to a proper showroom.

Good for: Affordable leather wallets and messenger bags for men.

ROSEMAN

ZETTINO

G/F, Mahutan Plaza, 888 Phloenchit Rd., 088-9505564. Open Mon-Sat 11am-7:30pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www.facebook.com/Zettino

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INDIGO TO INDIAN The former online business of Blue Dye Cafe’s owner has been turned into a proper shop, stocking Thai handicraft products with an emphasis on indigo, silver accessories and home decor.

Good for: Indigo dye work sourced from Northern Thailand that’s designed by the owner, ceramic pieces like coffee drippers and cute stuffed owls and foxes.

2/F, Blue Dye Cafe, Sukhumvit Soi 36, 083-714-5333.

Open Mon 1-6pm and Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.facebook.com/indigotoindian

2/7 TWICE A WEEK This concept store for Thai designer items also features a corner devoted to old Polaroid cameras and a cafe featuring nitro cold brew coffee from local roasters Finca de Barn. Note that it only opens weekends.

INDIGO TO INDIAN

Good for: Deadstock Polaroid cameras and film plus items from up-and-coming Thai designers like Ease Embroidery wall decor, A Pale Petal tote bags, Sattawat furniture and Pana Objects home decor.

208 Chulalongkorn Soi 50, Rama 4 Rd., 087-5071997. Open Sat-Sun 10:30am-9pm. www.facebook. com/27twiceaweek INDIGO TO INDIAN

2/7 TWICE A WEEK

CONCIERGE PICKS Where do you recommend your guests go shopping?

Mayshi Cheepat Millenium Hilton

Panu Inta JW Marriot

Athipol Soonthornsingh St. Regis

Our guests love Asiatique (2194 Charoen Krung Rd.) because not only is it a great riverside shopping destination, but you can also have a lovely meal there and watch traditional performances like Calypso. For something more central, we recommend Siam Square because there are plenty of local fashion brands.

For guests that like brand names we always recommend Siam Paragon (Rama 1 Rd.) or Central Embassy (1031 Phloenchit Rd.). However, those who want a more local experience and don’t mind bargaining a little, we tell them to head to either MBK (444 Phayathai Rd.) or Pratunam (Ratchathewi Rd.).

Every tourist out there has heard of Emquartier and Siam Paragon, but we like to recommend more local destinations—for instance, our favorite night markets are JJ Green (Kampaengphet Rd.) and Talad Rot Fai (99 Ratchadaphisek Rd.). You can find everything there: clothes, accessories, food and live music.

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SHOPPING

GOOD DESIGN STORE

THE WONDER ROOM

THE SELECTED

HERITAGE CRAFT AND CAFE Run by Thai Craft Fair Trade, this outlet aims to promote local, self-supporting social enterprises and hosts handmade markets on a monthly basis.

Good for: Organic and handmade products like stools from Lahu craftsmen in Northern Thailand.

ORGANIC SUPPLY

THE SELECTED

Co-owned by melancholic local rock singer-songwriter Greasy Cafe, this clean-looking organic shop is an oasis for the healthconscious. A cafe zone offers healthy snacks like vegan bread, cold-pressed juice and smoothies while a proper shop stocks many organic beauty and food products.

This multi-label store showcases the very best in emerging Thai talent not only in fashion and accessories but also home decor and beauty products. Here, you’ll find brands like Container (www.containerbag.net), which produces leather bags for dandy gentlemen, the funky-yet-classy swimwear of Timo (www. timotrunks.com) and Praat home fragrances.

The highlight is their monthly collaboration project resulting in limited-edition products.

35 Bamrung Muang Rd., 02-221-1330. Open Mon-Fri 11am-6pm. www.heritagecraft.org

Good for: Natural-made goods, from skincare and baby products, to food products like brown rice pasta and tea.

GIN & MILK

148 Nakniwas Rd., 02-101-6410 Open Mon-Sun 10am-8pm. www.facebook.com/organicsupply.bkk

Devoted to showcasing the best in Thai fashion, Siam Center is home to both established and rising brands, as well as intriguing multi-label stores. Gin & Milk focuses on menswear and accessories by reputed Thai designers like P.Mith, Meticulous and SSAP as well as emerging names like Leisure Projects Store and Love Supreme.

Good for: Dressy and vintage fashion, tailored suits and men’s streetwear.

3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam. www.facebook.com/ ginandmilkstore

THE WONDER ROOM If Gin & Milk is for men, The Wonder Room is Siam Center’s multi-label store for ladies. The store stocks Thai designer label women’s accessories and clothing from eight of the city’s hottest designers. Every four months, the shop changes its decorative theme and rotates the brands featured.

Good for: Currently you can expect to find hot accessories from Virgin Daisies vintage swimwear and Isawan leather bags to Estro cosmetics.

3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1098. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam. www.facebook.com/ thewonderroomstore

Good for: Quality designs from Thai brands on the rise.

3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1378. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam. www.facebook.com/ theselected

GOOD DESIGN STORE The Japan Institute for Design Promotion (JDP) has teamed up with Shane Suvikapakornkul of Serindia Gallery and Hardcover Book Store to launch a new boutique dedicated to award-winning design from Japan's Good Design (or G Mark) Award.

Good for: Shopping for award-winning products from Thailand as well as iconic pieces from Japan.

4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02160-5686. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www.facebook.com/gooddesignstore

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METTIQUE This luxury leather accessories brand is run by Met Hentrakul, whose family has a long history in leather making. The specialty is handbags, briefcases and tote bags, as well as smaller accessories, all made from exotic leathers like South African ostrich, Italian buffalo and crocodile.

Good for: These pieces are packed with attitude and the quality is worth investing in. They also offer customization, too, where you can have your name engraved on your new purchase.

LIVE LIKE HOUND

2/F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-6561114. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www.mettique.com

LIVE LIKE HOUND This is the brand new concept store from Greyhound, one of Thailand’s longeststanding fashion houses. This is actually a revamp of the brand’s existing flagship store to offer more than just fashion, blending in lifestyle products from leading Thai designers.

METTIQUE

Good for: New and limited edition collections from Greyhound, as well as home decor and accessories from brands like Pana Objects, A.Palepetal and Erb.

LIVE LIKE HOUND

METTIQUE

LUXX

1/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-7894. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam. www.greyhound.co.th

ANYROOM Leading local architect Duangrit Bunnag’s The Jam Factory is one riverside complex worth visiting as it packs together an independent bookshop, an art space, cafes and restaurants and this furniture/multibrand store. While the main focus here is on big furniture pieces from his own brand and other Thai designers, you can also find smaller decorative items, too.

Good for: Well-designed furniture and home decor by emerging designers like Alltag and PDM, plus fashion from Lonely Two Legged Creature, vegetable-tanned watches from Tathata and Grey Ray stationery.

41/1/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-861-0955. Open Mon-Sun 11am-8pm. www.facebook.com/anyroomTM

SILOM +662 635 8800 reservations@staywithluxx.com LANGSUAN +662 684 1111 reservationsxl@staywithluxx.com

www.staywithluxx.com

stay with LUXX in bangkok

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SHOPPING

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ANOTHER STORY

IT’S HAPPENED TO BE A CLOSET This curiously named bohemian fashion brand has been big on the Bangkok scene since 2004, but it just recently settled into its permanent location on Sukhumvit Soi 23. The old house-turned-lifestyle shop combines fashion shop, gift corner, restaurant zone, nail service, foot massage and various workshops throughout the week.

Good for: Shop for the brand’s new collection, jewelry and other selections from Thai designer brands like Good After Nine.

We also recommended the jewelry-making workshops, too.

Sukhumvit Soi 23, 081-565-2026. Open daily 8am-midnight. www.facebook.com/happenedtobe

ANOTHER STORY This concept store gathers designer products from all over the world with a heavy focus on stationery and home decor, plus some fashion. The huge one-stop space also comprises a gallery, cafe and flower shop.

Good for: Aside from the imports, you’ll find product from Thai designers like Grey Ray stationery, Plural Design home decor and Thinkk Studio pendant lamps.

4/F, The Emquartier, Helix Building, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6138/9. BTS Phrom Phong. www.facebook. com/AnotherStoryOfficial

FEATHERSTONE

FEATHERSTONE

SIAM DISCOVERY RE-OPENING

This charming bohemian-themed shop offers a one-stop service of food and shopping. The cafe serves up coffee and Western comfort food, while the shelves feature gypsy-style accessories designed by the owner and made by local craftsmen from all over Thailand.

Good for: We really like the feather earring and stone jewelry that come with very pocket-friendly prices.

60 Ekkamai Soi 12, 097-058-6846. Open Wed-Mon 10:30am-10pm. www.facebook.com/featherstonecafe

ROOM FACTORY This is one of Bangkok’s longest-standing multi-label stores for locally designed home decor (though they stock international brands, too). Its new openings at Central Embassy and Emquartier see a larger selection of Thai designer brands, mostly mid-size furniture and smaller decorative items.

Good for: Unique desktop objects from international and Thai designers.

4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www.facebook. com/roomconceptstore

After a year of renovations, Siam Discovery mall reopened to the public last month, 2016, with a bright, futuristic design courtesy of Japanese artist Oki Sato. Most floors have a “lab” theme: Her Lab for ladies’ fashion, His Lab for men’s fashion, Street Lab for street fashion, Digital Lab for tech products, etc., with another two floors taken up by a branch of Virgin Active Fitness. In terms of the brand focus, the mall focuses not only on Thai designers but also those from all over Asia. Expect Japanese cult labels like Yoshio Kubo, Discord by Yoji Yamamoto and Dress Undressed, plus new-intown European names like Hackett (England) and innovative home decorative products from Hay (Denmark) and Tom Dixon (England). The mall is also home to Billboard Cafe, the first opening of its kind from the American entertainment media brand.

989 Rama 1 Rd., 02-2658-1000/19 and 02-687-5000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam. www.siamdiscovery.co.th

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+ where I METTIQUE

PINKY TAILOR

MADE IN BANGKOK Meet six young entrepreneurs keeping the craftsmanship skills of their family businesses alive while tweaking their goods in new ways.

Ngoh Tailor & Boutique

“Customers come to us because ready-to-wear clothes don’t match their needs. They want something unique that reflects their personality. Tailors can also act as advisers. We can change the pattern; the cloth is for one person only.”

The Company: Jiraphon “Ngu” Jiraphonsakul, 35 and Jiraroj “Pro” Jiraphonsakul,32, had no plans to take over their family’s 41-year-old tailor’s shop on Rama I Road until their father passed away. But the brothers have now stood in to not only continue his legacy, but secure customers for the future, too.

Get this: Tailor-made pants starting from B1,200 Where: 66 Rama I Rd., Phathumwan, 083-0181808, 02-214-1311. www.fb.com/ngohtailor

Pin & Tux

31 Thanwa

“Though our family’s leatherwearmaking know-how is not directly for bags, it can easily be adapted.

Also, our family always handled just production, while others did the design and branding. I stepped in and joined the dots.”

The Company: Boonyanuch “Kae” Vitayasamrit, 29, founded women’s leather handbag 31 Thanwa back in late 2011. She’s the third generation behind an 80-year-old shoe factory and has adapted that know-how into producing contemporary handbags with high-end branding.

Get this: The new Curios collection, starting from B13,500 Where: 2/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd., 081-711-8031. BTS Phrom Phong. www. fb.com/31ThanwaShop

“As my mom gets older, she wants to take a step back. I was looking at our business and thinking of ways to carry on. We have a lot of good tailors and it would be a shame to stop going. We created Pin & Tux to connect our quality craftsmanship with ready-made, fashionable design.”

“My dad has built such a solid base of customers and craftsmanship.

I am building on that with my own collections. Last month I exhibited at Paris Fashion Week. We want to tell people we can do many things other than just normal suits.”

The company: Co-founder, Sarit “James” Chokchainirand, 39, comes from the family behind Supinda boutique, a women’s tailoring business established in 1971. He’s partnered with Natcha “Pong” Kanchanachitra, 28, a young designer who’s now using his family’s manufacturing facilities to create fashionable ready-to-wear items.

The company: For years Pinky Tailor has been outfitting Bangkok’s business heads—the Thai owner of Leicester City Football Club, Vichai Srivaddhanaprabha, 31, was even wearing a Pinky suit when his team won on May 7. Now, Pinky’s son, Pawin Palitdejtakul, is expanding the company with fall/winter and spring/summer collections.

Get this: Dress starts from B4,890

Get this: Tailor-made pure wool suit, starting from B13,000

Where: Supinda Boutique, 1/2-3 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-258-8620 Pin & Tux. Also available via www.pinandtux.com, 093-660-0655

Pinky Tailor

Where: Mahatun Plaza Arcade, 888/40 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-253-6328. Open Mon-Sat 10am7:30pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www.pinkytailor.com

BALLET SHOES

Ballet Shoes

“Our grandma thinks we’d be better off taking salaried jobs than managing our own business. But I’ve grown up with this shoe business, it’s instinctive to work here. I’ve opened a shop under the same name selling the same designs but in quirkier colors.”

The company: Around for more than 60 years, Ballet Shoes is one of Bangkok’s oldest shoe shops; a tailor-made footwear company that caters to a wide range of styles but specializes in ballet shoes. Ponchanok Kongdechakul, 33, Pimpika Kongdechakul, 32, and Pasini Kongdechakul, 30, are the third generation of the family to work in the business.

Get this: Ballet-style flats, starting from 2,250 Where: 1/F, Siam Square One, Rama 1 Rd., 02252-2464. BTS Siam. www.fb.com/BalletShoes

Mettique

“My family had a leather manufacturing company, making accessories on behalf of other brands.

I launched Mettique at the end of 2011 and since then we’ve grown to our own 64-sq-meter flagship store in Gaysorn.”

The company: Brand creative director Met Hengtrakul capitalized on the craft skills of his family’s leather manufacturing business by launching his own brand of minimally styled bags and accessories in exotic leathers like ostrich, Italian buffalo and crocodile. His Gaysorn flagship store also specializes in smaller items including laptop covers, iPhone cases and even bow-ties.

Get this: hand-tanned, non-stitched cigar cases, B3,000-4,000 (cow hide) Where: 2/F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02656-1114. www.mettique.com JUNE 2016 I W HERE THA ILA N D 11

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DINING

KUMI RESTAURANT

ROCKET COFFEEBAR

LUKA

RISE & SHINE

Bangkok’s best spots to get breakfast by neighborhood.

SATHORN KUMI RESTAURANT & HEALTHY CORNER This cafe puts strong emphasis on healthy food.

The clean bites go beyond salads to the likes of sesame tuna Arabic quinoa, goat cheese vegetarian mille feuille with roasted eggplant, bell pepper, asparagus and pesto dressing and wraps. They also do breakfast sets with fresh juice, hot drinks, a choice of eggs and items like toasted avocado, cherry tomatoes, rocket salad, fruit salad and yogurt cornflakes.

71/2 Sathorn Soi 10, 02-635-3673. Open Wed-Mon 8am-9pm, Sat-Sun 9am-9:30pm

LUKA

ROCKET COFFEEBAR

Situated on leafy Pan Road, which runs from the Hindu temple on Silom to the Myanmar Embassy on Sathorn, Luka has fast become a favorite with the local office workers. The menu zeroes in on down-to-earth comfort food like chicken sandwiches. Sauces, juices and pickles are homemade, while the produce comes from reputable names like Adams Organic, the Royal Project Foundation and Sloane’s. The breakfast burrito is a solid morning choice, served with quinoa, scrambled egg, cheese, sausage, tomato salsa, avocado and “Thai chipotle” salsa.

Following the success of its first branch on Sathorn Soi 12, the stylish brunch-and- cocktail cafe serves a winning formula of wholesome food, freshly baked goods and artisanal coffee. The highlight has to be the delightful breakfast menu which includes dishes like house-made granola served with yogurt and the now-mythical Rocket’s Benedict, pretty much the best version of this overdone dish in town.

149 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-635-0404. Open daily 7am9pm

Casa Pagoda, 64/1 Pan Rd., 02-637-8558. Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat-Sun 8:30am-7pm

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ASOKE CHU Baker Chirayu na Ranong’s Chu started out with a humble mission to churn out churros and hot chocolate (still our favorite things on the menu), but it also packs in the crowds with its breakfast offerings. Top picks include the eggs Benedict with bacon, scrambled eggs with cherry tomato salsa and Joe Sloane’s chorizo. The creamy, velvety, dark hot chocolate is one of the best in town.

For consistency and comfort, this brasserie is one of Bangkok’s favorite places to spend a slow Sunday. The coffee hits the spot, as do the brunch staples like French toast (with berries, whipped cream and maple syrup). You can also try its younger brother, Kuppadeli (Asoke Towers, Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-664-2350).

2/F, Exchange Tower, 388 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-6634554. Open Mon-Fri 7:30am-9pm; Sat-Sun 8am8pm. BTS Asok

GASTRO 1/6

Trinity Complex, Narathiwas Soi 3, 02-636-8685.

Open Tue-Fri 7:30am-9pm; Sat-Sun 8am-9pm.

BTS Chong Nonsi

CHU

KUPPA

39 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-259-1954. Open daily 10am11pm. MRT Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

With its adorable garden and hanging greenery, this is one of the city’s best places for a lazy, long brunch. The sweet dishes like the fluffy French toast are delightful, but so too is the poached egg with mushroom, asparagus and truffle oil. Oh, and the menu was designed

by Bo Songvisava, one of the chefs behind acclaimed fine-dining restaurant Bo.lan.

RMA Studio, Sainamthip Soi 2, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 080-603-6421. Open Tue-Sun 8:30am-3:30pm.

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DINING

TAPER

PHROM PHONGTHONGLOR-EKKAMAI TAPER Chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn, of Le Du, teamed up with his former classmate from the Culinary Institute of America, Tatchapol “Toon” Choomduang, to open this Asian-inspired brunch restaurant. The exciting menu is headed by the likes of congee with mushroom, pork belly bacon, sous-vide egg, ginger and soy reduction and the Taper Benedict which includes a homemade biscuit, eggs drizzled with hollandaise sauce and either grilled mushroom, thickcut bacon or smoked salmon.

44/11, Soi Akkapat, Thonglor Soi 13, 099-9295464. Open Sat-Sun 9am-4pm

ROAST COFFEE & EATERY Roast remains high on most brunch-goers’ checklists, which means that, come the weekend you can face some crazy queues. It’s with good reason, too; on top of the great coffee, the menu packs genuine crowd-pleasers like the crab cake Benedict and smoked salmon with rosti matched with lemon creme fraiche.

The Commons, Thonglor Soi 17, 02-185- 2865. Open Mon-Thu 10am-11pm, Fri-Sat 9am-11pm and Sun 9am-10pm.

Emquartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 094-176-3870. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

ROCKET S49 This is the third branch of Bangkok’s stylish brunch-and-cocktail cafe (see page 12), Rocket. Pull up a stool in a space bursting with natural morning light thanks to the glasshouse-like entrance, and tuck into Scandinavian classics from muesli to open-face sandwiches. There’s also a distinctly Nordic feel to the design, all blond-wood furniture matched with marble and geometric lighting sculptures.

BLACK BOX

1/F, Grease, Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-6626637. Open Mon-Fri 7am-9pm; Sat-Sun 7am-11pm

CHIT LOM-PHLOEN CHIT BROOKLYN BAKER A great place to escape the hustle and bustle, nestled down a quiet soi at the entrance to Retreat on Vitayu spa. Grab a seat in the small garden and go classic with the American Breakfast (pancakes, bacon, sausages and eggs) or try something a little more adventurous like shakshouka (Arabic style poached egg, sausage and tomato).

51/7 Soi Polo, Wireless Rd., 081-855-7090. Open Thu-Tue 8am-5pm (last order 4.30pm) CREPES & CO

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BLACK BOX The brekkie menu (available daily from 7:30am-4pm) includes straight-up fare like two eggs cooked any style, served with toast, sausages, potato, grilled tomatoes and mini salad. Still hungry? Order the Hungryman, which adds bacon and pancakes to the regular set. The star, though, is probably the pulledpork Benedict, a contender for the city’s ultimate hipster breakfast.

Mahatun Plaza, 888/8-9 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-6515188. Cafe open daily 7:30am-4:30pm; bar open Tue-Sat 5:30pm-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

CREPES & CO ROAST COFFEE & EATERY

Sweet and savory crepes are the order of the day at this popular restaurant set in a charming white house. Great service and a nice garden complete the picture. Try the savory crepe supreme, filled with bacon, mushroom, cheese and Bechamel sauce, all topped off with an egg. The brunch set gets you one hot drink, one fruit juice, yogurt and muesli, two eggs, pancakes and more. There are also branches in Thonglor (Eight Thonglor, Thonglor Soi 8, 02726-9398), Phrom Phong (B/F, Emquartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 095-251-5233) and Siam (7/F, CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 092-263-1386).

59/4 Lang Suan Soi 1, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-6520208. Open Mon-Sat 9am-11pm; Sun 8am-11pm.

BTS Chit Lom

RATTANAKOSIN FARM TO TABLE, HIDEOUT Nestled in a century-old Rama 5-era house, the space may require some effort to find, but the result is well worth it. Duck behind an old fresh market and you’ll find a cozy, contemporary-yet-rustic cafe that preserves the charm of the original building while playing up to the fresh market location with vegetable baskets and metal food carts. The menu spans simple European dishes like roast chicken salad with house-made dressing plus Asian desserts such as coconut rice dumpling paired with coconutbutterfly pea ice cream.

15 Soi Tha Klang, 02-004-8771. Open Thu-Tue 10am-8pm

ELEFIN COFFEE Elefin coffee roaster marked 10 years of operations by opening a third branch opposite Wat Pho down by the riverside in the Old Town. The cafe sources its coffee beans from Doi Chang, Chiang Rai, and works with Seattle’s Lighthouse Roastery to achieve the perfect roast. You’ll find Thai favorites like khao tom (rice soup) as well as Western breakfast dishes like pancakes.

394/1-2 394/1-2 Maharaj Rd., 02-622-1115. Open daily 7am-10pm.

Museum Siam, 4 Sanam Chai Rd., Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm Hansar Bangkok, 3/250 Mahadlekluang Soi 2, Ratchadamri Rd. Open daily 7am-midnight

ON LOK YUN The 80-year-old spot has a loyal following who come for the kanom pang sangkaya (bread with Thai-style egg custard) and Thai-style American breakfast, and stick around for the oldworld atmosphere. The no-frills decor only adds to the charm, with wooden cabinets filled with tins of Milo from the ‘80s. While you’re there, head to The Old Siam or Saranrom Park and take a stroll through the Old Town.

ROAST COFFEE & EATERY

72 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-223-9621. Open daily 6am-4pm

FARM TO TABLE, HIDEOUT

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Y

where

AROUND THAILAND

SEENSPACE

HAPPENING IN HUA HIN The beach town two hours from Bangkok shakes off its sleepy

seaside image with bold new developments and dramatic hotel revamps. By Monruedee Jansuttipan

NEW DEVELOPMENTS MAHASAMUTR COUNTRY CLUB MAHASAMUTR COUNTRY CLUB

Hyped as the most ambitious and luxurious project Hua Hin has ever seen, this 130-rai country club came at a cost of B7 billion and features Asia’s largest manmade private lagoon, surrounded by a beach and high-end villas, starting at B50 million apiece. The lagoon is so big you can even windsurf on it, or take out kayaks, canoes and paddle boards as well as learn to scuba dive. The club also comprises a sport complex with facilities for badminton, basketball, squash, volleyball, tennis courts and an Olympic-sized 50-meter swimming pool.

Hua Hin Soi 112, 02-237-1414, 032-510-314. www. mahasamutr.com

SEENSPACE

SEENSPACE The beachfront Seenspace Hua Hin mall was designed by Akaradej Pantisoontorn, the developer-slash-architect behind the popular Seenspace mall in Bangkok.

Spread over 7,200 sq meters, the modern design sees rectangular bare cement blocks topped with grass walkways and a criss-crossed rooftop. The mall promises hot local fashion boutiques like Greyhound Original, Lalalove and Sretsis, as well as international brands Marc by Marc Jacobs, Paul Smith and DKNY. For something to eat, check out the FIN seafood bar, followed by a drink at Nomad Bar by The Never Ending Summer—a project in league with celebrity Bangkok architect Duangrit Bunnag.

Hua Hin Soi 35, Liebwang Nue Road, 092-3500035. www.seenspace.com/huahin

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SEASIDE EATS BIG FISH

SEE & DO NEW CYCLE TRACKS

Hua Hin’s newest seaside restaurant sits in front of the revamped Hua Hin Marriott Resort and Spa. Chef Mario Hofmann focuses on charcoal grilling seafood caught by local fishermen, like whole black garoupa grilled with Himalayan salt. He also does some fine slow-roasted meats like the 20-hourcooked Australian wagyu short ribs. Before tucking into the grill, also be sure to order the iced seafood tower, packed with oysters, prawns, mantis shrimps and green mussels and served alongside Thai-style green seafood sauce. The restaurant has both indoor and outdoor seating, both of which benefit from beach views. The outdoor section connects with the Pool Bar.

The first stretch of Hua Hin’s B157-million bike lane pilot project has now opened, letting you ride the 5km distance from Khao Tao to Pranburi. Though the Department of Highways has still to officially cut the ribbon, cyclists are still welcome to use it.

And’ that’s not the only good news for people who want to explore the area on two wheels. Set inside a hotel compound, the public is nonetheless welcome to use The Regent Cha-am Beach Resort’s bike route free of charge. Regent Bike Park consists of two mountain bike trails: a 3.5-kilometer one for everybody and a more advanced 4.5-kilometer track featuring tougher lumps and bumps.

107 Phetkasem Rd., 032-904-666. goo.gl/lThM0N

RHYTHM & BOOK & FRIENDS

YOUYEN GARDEN Youyen Garden comes from the people behind long-standing Hua Hin restaurant Youyen Balcony on Phetkasem Road. This one offers a vast green space right beside the beach but still serves the same mix of Thai and international dishes as the original branch, such as mee krob phu wa (crispy noodles), namprik khai pu (chili paste with crab egg), khung morakot (prawns in pesto sauce), soft-shell crab with black pepper sauce and prawns in tamarind sauce.

Hidden in the backyard behind Hua Hin Place on Naeb Khehat Soi 1, Rhythm & Book & Friends is a minuscule bookshop run by Panu Maneewattanakul, Thailand’s reputed travel writer. Inside his tiny white home,

there are small batches of Thai and international books curated by him which are about music, arts, food, drinks, history and sex, along with nice collections of vinyls which he has collected along his travel around the world. He regularly has some special items too such as posters designed by Cuban artists or vintage pencil sharpeners.

Hua Hin Place Guesthouse, Hua Hin Soi 53. goo.gl/ fGE2ss

MATTHEW KENNEY CULINARY The luxurious, sustainably-minded hotel Evason Hua Hin recently added an onsite “raw food” school from US celeb chef called Matthew Kenney. Take a one- or two-day weekend course to learn more about “plant-based” diets. Bright green smoothies, detoxifying salads and “pasta,” and even a dairy-free dessert made from chia seeds are all included. One day courses are B8,000. Room rates start at B3,314.

9 Moo 5 Paknampran Beach, Pranburi, 032-632-111. goo.gl/xPngSG

1417/4 Phetkasem Road, Hua Hin, 032-653-013-5. goo.gl/mfh1TQ

LACIANA BY THE SEA Hidden behind Hua Hin Soi 3, Laciana is a casual eatery serving home-style Italian food in hearty portions. This restaurant’s outdoor area consists of country-style wooden furniture, worn brick paths and a rustic, birdbathfountain to make for a particularly laid-back setting. Inside you’ll find large tables, rustic bric-a-brac and couches. Highlights include seafood spaghetti, baked prawns with rosemary and cheesy pizza. Don’t miss their ruam thalay phao seafood bucket which comes with grilled crab, mussels, scallops, squid and shrimps. They also offer Thai dishes like som tam served with deep-fried pork belly.

BIG FISH

Hua Hin Soi 3, 081-481-7507. www.fb.com/lacianabythasea LACIANA BY THE SEA

EVASON KENNEY CULINARY

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whereExploring JUNE 2016 | BANGKOK

UPPER SILOM Silom Road starts at Lumphini Park and stops just one block short of the Chao Phraya River. The road’s first half is notorious for Soi Patpong, a collection of go-go bars and fake watch stalls. But the bottom half has recently undergone a revival, with a host of edgy bars and restaurants joining the area’s long-standing galleries.

LUKA CAFE

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 20 UPPER SILOM

22 CHINATOWN

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EXPLORING

UPPER SILOM Y SPOTLIGHT

@1 Bangkok

Art Galleria

Head to floors 4 and 5 of Bangkok’s jewelry trading hub, the Jewelry Trade Center, for four of the city’s best galleries. 919/1 Silom Soi 19.

02-630-0979

Tang Contemporary Art With its two branches in China, this institution is Bangkok’s top dog when it comes to modern ChineseThai art.

02-630-1114. Open Tue-Sat 11am-7pm

THE DINING ROOM AT THE HOUSE ON SATHORN In what used to be the Soviet Embassy, this standalone outpost of the neighboring W Hotel has one of the most stunning dining rooms in town, artfully blending the building’s period details with considerate modern touches. Half of the restaurant’s 40 seats are at a long, wooden counter facing the kitchen, where the team turns out fusion dishes like Hunting the Duck (duck breast lying on splashes of red pomegranate sauce and burnt onion powder as gunpowder) and The Red Parfait (foie gras torchon wrapped with beetroot jelly, served with brioche and aged balsamic vinegar).

CVN CVN is more of an art dealer, so no rotating exhibitions here. Bring a few million baht for a Thawan Duchanee, but prices start from much lower than that.

02-630-2251. Open Mon-Sat 11am-7pm

!5 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4025. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

CULTURE One of Silom’s most colorful landmarks, 1 Mahamariamman Temple (Wat Khaek) (between Pan Rd. and Silom Soi 17, 02-238-4007) feels more like it belongs in India than downtown Bangkok. Built during the 19th century by Tamil immigrants, it is one of the main non-Buddhist places of worship in the capital. The area is also bustling with galleries.

Just around the corner, Manit Sriwanichpoom’s 2 Kathmandu Photo Gallery (87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700) is Bangkok’s preeminent photography gallery. Its exhibitions focus on social issues, urbanization and the country’s photographic heritage—well worth a regular visit. Nearby, 3 H Gallery (201 Sathorn Soi 12, 085-021-5508) is set in a beautiful, late-19th century, wooden building where Brian Curtin curates exhibitions by emerging contemporary Asian artists. Also visit

the Jewelry Trade Center (see right) which is home to some of the city’s best galleries.

SUPANNIGA

LUNCH AND COFFEE

4 Blue Elephant (233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353) is one of the most established Thai restaurants in town, serving authentic royal Thai cuisine from a beautiful old house. Nearby, 5 Supanniga offers a more relaxed take on no-less-authentic Thai cuisine, drawing in a hip local clientele

that belies the affordable prices. Lessformal is the wonderfully idiosyncratic 6 Foo Mui Kee (10-12 Prachum Rd., 02-234-6648), an 80-year-old shophouse restaurant serving Western dishes with a distinctly Chinese influence. For some good coffee and a fuss-free meal, head over to 7 Rocket (149 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-635-0404), a cafe that keeps things simple with eggs Benedict, homemade granola and salami and cheese focaccia sandwiches, or check out the new 8Luka Cafe. Our pick for delicious Thai street food is Wat Khaek Market (see box, opposite).

HEALTH AND WELLNESS Located inside the W Bangkok hotel is the vibrant 9Away Spa (6/F, W Bangkok, 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-3444160), a swanky spa with a dim, labyrinthine halls lit with LED lights to provide a relaxing and playful mood.

Number1 Gallery Young and fresh, with a selection of exciting emerging artists, this gallery’s price tags in the tens of thousands remain reasonable.

02-630-2523. Open daily 11am-7pm

Thavibu Gallery Representing big names like Vasan Sithiket and Navin Rawanchaikul, Thavibu is another highly-regarded gallery.

02-266-5454. Open Mon-Sat 11am-7pm

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EXPLORING

UPPER SILOM 001-0698) by the chef with the most Michelin stars in the world. For drinks and casual bites, head to Sathorn soi 10-12, which is thriving with new bars including !8 Le Cafe des Stagiaires (142/21 Sathorn Soi 12, 081-2073077) and !9 Revolucion (50 Sathorn Soi 10, 02-235-4823), or head up

The spa specializes in treatments ranging from massages to detox. For a more traditional setting, head over to !0 Health Land (120 Sathorn Rd., 02637-8880) for their popular traditional Thai whole-body or foot massage.

DRINKS AND DINING The Silom area is home to some of Bangkok’s best restaurants. Anyone who’s anyone right now is eating at !1Bunker (see page TK), which sits across the street from !2Lady Brett (149 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-635-0405), a cozy wooden-tiled tavern serving simple barbecue dishes, !3Le Du (399/3 Silom Soi 7, 092-919-9969) is an inventive restaurant powered by a young Thai chef; while next door’s !4Namsaah Bottling Trust (401 Silom Soi 7, 02-636-6622) offers whimsical takes on Asian comfort food and strong cocktails in a charming 100-year-old house. The area is also home to plenty of upscale options, among them !5 The House on Sathorn (see opposite), one of the hottest new tables in town, !6 Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant (37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 02-238-1991) and even !7 L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon (5/F, 02-

VOGUE LOUNGE

to the rooftop @0Vogue Lounge (6/F, Mahanakhon Cube, Silom, Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-0010697) where the former chef of Hong Kong’s Caprise creates delicate sharing plates to go with wonderful cocktails. For later nights, check out @1 Ce La Vi (39/F, Sathorn Square Complex, 02-108-2000), t the Bangkok branch Oso of Asia’s tha high-end clubbing brand, Put or the colonial Shanghai-themed @2 Maggie Choo’s (UG/F, Novotel Fenix Silom, 02-635-6055).

Wat Khaek Market

The fresh market nestled by the Mahamariamman Temple is a popular place for locals and expats to grab breakfast, lunch and dinner. Here, you’ll find basic Thai street dishes such as som tam (spicy papaya salad), moo-ping (grilled pork on a stick), noodle soup and Muslim curries.

@3 Silom Rd., between soi 20 and 22. Open daily 6am-late

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EXPLORING

CHINATOWN Y CHINATOWN’S TOP

STREET-FOOD STALLS

!4 Guay Tiew Kua Gai This gem, very well-known among locals, is hidden in a tiny alley and run by an old couple who have been serving one of the best guay tiew kua gai (fried noodles with chicken) for decades.

Yaowarat Soi 6. Open Wed-Mon, 7pm-1am

!5 Pa Jin Cockle Soi Texas Located in the middle of Soi Texas, this place has been specializing in boiled cockles and mussels for over 35 years.

2ND YARD This refurbished shop-house on the fringes of Chinatown does some of Bangkok’s best sandwiches. Select from seven fillings that range from mushroom and cheese up to grilled beef and grilled unagi (freshwater eel), each served between two pieces of lightly-charred ciabatta. 2nd Yard has even grown into a proper nightspot with a well-stocked bar, craft beers and cocktails.

Aside from the solid sandwiches and drinks, part of the place’s appeal is its location amid the crumbling walls and auto shops of Talad Noi.

Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd., 081-795-1839. Open daily Mon-Sat 6:30pm-1am, Sun 5pm-1am

!8 763 Charoen Krung Rd., 095-898-8070. MRT Hua Lamphong. Open daily 4-11pm.

C

hinatown used to be all about eating at the most time-worn restaurants in Bangkok and walking through moody, crumbling streets where traditional Sino-Thai home life spills into public sight. That’s all still there, but so are a cluster of the coolest new cocktail bars and galleries in town, attracting to the area a young, local and arty crowd with craft brews and vibrant live sounds.

SEE & DO Although many generations have passed since Chinese immigrants first moved to the area, Taoist culture still remains strong in Chinatown, giving this part of town a rich and unique history.

Using life-size models and audiovisual displays, the 1 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-623-3329, open Tue-Sun 8am5pm) details the history of Chinese migration to Thailand, as well as how the area now known as Chinatown began.

2 Wat Traimit (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-225-9775, open Tue-Sun 9am5pm) is not to be missed, home to the world’s biggest seated Golden Buddha, which also happens to be the largest gold statue in the world. Built in the 14th century, it remains very sacred and is a

WAT TRAIMIT

popular site for locals during religious holidays. Nearby, you’ll find 3 Wat Mongkhon Kamalawat (Mangkorn Rd., 02-222-3975), which combines Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian figures.

A lot of devout Buddhist locals tend to practice here, so be sure to respect them as they perform their religious rituals. For a more tourist-friendly expe-

rience, head to the colorful old Chinese Buddhist shrines at 4 Li Thi Miew (494 Plapphlachai Rd., 02-221-6985), where you’ll be welcomed with your camera at the ready—so long as you wear appropriate clothing. The most picturesque shrine in the area has to be 5 Guan Yin Shrine (600 Yaowarat Rd., 02-2372191), where a classically ornate Chinese building houses a 900-year-old statue of the Mahayana Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. Yaowarat is also known as a hub for gold trade. 6 Tang Toh Kang (Soi Vanit 1, 02-224-2422) gold shop dates back to the early 1900s and the reign of King Rama VI. Today, the seven-story late colonial-style building is still owned by its founding family, and in 2002 underwent a major renovation.

Although the shop still deals gold on a day-to-day basis, a section has also been converted into a museum for the public. Be sure to call ahead one day in advance as they don’t allow walk-in visitors for security reasons.

!6 Kuay Jub Nai Ek This place is known for its kuay jub, a hot dish composed of rolled noodles with crispy pork belly, blood and intestines served in peppery soup.

Yaowarat Rd., corner of soi 11. Open daily 7pm-late

!7 T&K Seafood and

R&L Seafood

Located opposite each other, these two restaurants are known for their fresh seafood dishes at reasonable prices.

Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd. Open daily 6pm-1am

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EXPLORING

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cocktail lounges in town, !2 Teens of Thailand (76 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 081-443-3784), where a collection of arts, party organizers and photographers gather to sip on gin-heavy drinks. On the same street, !2 23 Bar and Gallery (92 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 086-264-4471), has a no-frills atmosphere, and a soundtrack that flits between 90s Britpop and reggae, while !2Tep Bar (69-71 Soi Nana) dishes out heritage Thai food, drinks and music to a hip local crowd (see opposite). Or head up to the 25th floor of the !3 Grand China Hotel (215 Yaowarat Rd., 02224-9977), where a revolving restaurant and bar offers 360-degree views of Chinatown and the river.

M

lip-smackingly good Punjabi recipes.

EAT Turn on your heels, because here Dining in Chinatown is all about they cook in true Indian grandmother old-school shop-house restaurants style—plenty of cream and ghee. And that have stood in the same spot for be sure to stock up on traditional Indi80 years or more. 7 Yim Yim (89 an sweets on your way out. The area’s Yaowaphanit Rd., 02-224-2203) is old-school tea and coffee houses are a venerable institution in Yaowarat’s also not to be missed. The 87-yearrich dining scene—which is to say it’s some of the best Chinese food you’ll get in Bangkok, despite the gloomy decor and small, dark space. The goat ham and cured fish are delicious. On a similar note, don’t be discouraged by the rats and cockroaches in the alleyway leading to 8 Jok’s Kitchen (23 Soi Isara Nuphap, 02-221-4075), a small, menu-less establishment known as one of the hottest seats in EIAH-SAE town. Chef Jok presents course after course of things like steamed bass in old !0 Eiah-Sae (1-103 Yaowarat soy sauce and fried rice with crabmeat Rd., 081-868-9891) serves coffee to a packed dining room every night. laced with condensed milk alongDining here is done traditional Chiside charming snacks like custard nese-style, so come with a big enough on toast, soft-boiled eggs and toast party to fill one of the large round tawith butter, jam or chocolate spread, bles. While Yaowarat is known for its all charged at rock-bottom prices.

Chinese food, the adjoining Pahurat !1 Double Dogs, (406 Yaowarat Rd., is home to a sizable Indian commu086-329-3075) meanwhile, specialnity, and 9 Royal India (392/1 ChakCharoen Krung Rd izes . in potent, properly brewed teas kaphet Rd., 02-221-6565) is simply from across the region. one of the best places in town for

. MRT (underground train) to Hua Lamphong station and head to Exit 1. Follow the road over a footbridge that crosses the canal and you’ll be at Reaching Chinatown is easy. Simply take the the doorway to the area. See page 32 for a general map of Bangkok.

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ThewhereGuide JUNE 2016 | BANGKOK

NEW

UNCLE X 72 COURTYARD

This moody cocktail bar sits on top of a chic development of restaurants and night spots in the happening Thonglor area. Its specialty is classic cocktails with a twist served for a fraction of the price of other bars which look even half this stylish. When you’re sipping drinks as good as head barman Philip Stefanescu’s Manhattan Latino (rum, Mancino Rosso, cocoa and bittes) while lounging on one of thier slouchy leather sofas, it’s hard to have just one or two.

72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor). Open daily 6pm-2am.

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 25 DINING 28 NIGHTLIFE

29 HEALTH & WELLNESS 30 ATTRACTIONS

31 ART 32 NAVIGATE

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DINING NEW

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BUNKER

Fresh, simple, well-executed, original yet devoid of gimmicks, there’s a reason why the food at Bunker has been more hotly anticipated than any other restaurant this year.

Some of the menu’s 16 dishes verge on tapas portions, but the flavors are anything but small: the wagyu beef tartar is spiked with daikon radish and radish sprouts; the cured foie gras torchon paired with candied cashew and chili mango; the smoky plate of fatty wagyu short rib falls from the bone in perfectly glazed, inch-thick slices. The space’s craggy concrete lines are also something of a novelty, softened by turquoise banquettes and octogonal globes of light.

118/2 Sathorn Soi 12, 092-563-9991. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. BTS Chong Nonsi

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Hot Spots HIP THAI RESTAURANTS

2

ERR

The chef duo behind Bangkok’s Thai fine dining institution Bo.lan have brought their expertise to a new genre of modern, casual Thai cuisine. Their latest project, Err, is set in a retro shop-house just down the street from Wat Pho, where they’ve trained their chefs to whip up rejuvenated versions of Thailand’s best drinking snacks. The menu comprises dishes intended to be shared among friends alongside cocktails.

BAA GA DIN

1

394/35 Maharaj Rd., 02-622-2291. Open Tue-Sun 11am-9pm

BAA GA DIN

One of a vanguard of restaurants that seek to tweak tried-and-tested street food favorites, Baa Ga Din presents a modern twist to roadside specialties like chicken wings and oyster omelets. The brainchild of Thitid Tassanakajohn of acclaimed fine-dining eatery Le Du, Baa Ga Din also serves an inventive cocktail menu in a friendly, bistro atmosphere that lures large groups who want the casual experience of Thai street food without the exhaust fumes and teeny stools.

26 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-3813. Open Wed-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Mon 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm

The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts.

Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authentic flavor. While more modern Thai restaurants have lately grabbed most column inches, Blue Elephant is still worth a visit for both atmosphere and food.

233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Surasak

3

SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN

Thought of as a “Thai-style izakaya” by owner Jarrett Wrisley, this perennially popular Thai hotspot does Thai street food with thoughtful, arty flourishes: think housemade watermelon rind pickles with the Hat Yai-style fried chicken, or a smoky bacon garnish on the grilled eggplant salad. Specials, written up on a chalkboard on the ground floor, change on a regular basis and the cocktails are potent and tasty.

JASON MICHAEL LANG

Blue Elephant

ERR

56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708.

Open daily 5:30pm-midnight. BTS Thong Lo SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN

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TASTEOFTHECITY

DINING HONG KONG Recent Openings

ABOUT EATERY

Bangkok’s first attempt at a “natural” wine bar.

G/F, Ocean Tower 2, Asoke Soi 3, 02-6652772. www.facebook.com/abouteatery. bangkok

KAY’S BOUTIQUE BREAKFAST A bright, all-white venue that’s all about breakfast.

116/55-57 Rangnam Rd., 089-816-8566. www.facebook.com/kaysbangkok

SUN STREET PANINI

Phra Athit welcomes one seriously cute Italian restaurant.

Phra Athit Rd., 082-454-8884. www.facebook.com/sunstreetpaninibkk

Advertise your business with us ­ starting from B5,000

BLU 36

Peruvian cuisine from a home that’s been converted into a dining room with outdoor terrace.

23/7 Sukhumvit Soi 36, 02-661-5448. www. facebook.com/BLU36Bangkok

Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Credit card payment accepted.

26 W H E R E T H A I LAND I DECEMBER 2 0 1 1 I www.wheretraveler.com

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GUIDE

DINING FINE DINING CLASSICS

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON

Gaggan

4

SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM (SATHORN)

One of Bangkok’s favorite Thai restaurants has built its reputation on delicate traditional plates bursting with strong, authentic flavors. The casual decor plays with the vivid yellow of Supanniga flowers, while other references to Eastern Thai culture abound. Dont miss the pu jah (blended crabmeat and pork, seasoned with pepper and steamed inside crab shell), panang nuea lai (beef chunks in red curry) and moo cha muang (stewed pork with herbs and cha muang leaves).

28 Sathorn Soi 10, 02-635-0349. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

Chef Gaggan Anand’s name went around the world when his eponymous restaurant was named Asia’s 50 Best’s No. 1 restuarant in 2015 —a feat he followed up this year. Each night, in a classically restored house on Langsuan Road, the chef’s team offers a tasting menu where diners’ expectations of Indian food are first thrown overboard and then blown out of the water.

TEP BAR

5

TEP BAR

This restored shop-house has plenty of raw appeal, and specializes in potent cocktails mixed with Thai fruits, herbs and spices.

There’s also a good line of home-infused ya dong (Thai herbal whiskey) as well as a kitchen dishing out Thai tapas (as well as a few classics like pad Thai). Come nightfall, enjoy your meal while Thai musicians take the stage to play traditional music from the Central region.

68/1 Lang Suan Rd., 02-652-1700. Open daily 6pmmidnight. BTS Ratchadamri.

Issaya Siamese Club Make your way down the long driveway and through the charming garden before finding a seat among the bright blue walls and artifacts emanating Thai heritage. All-star chef Ian Kittichai’s meticulously presented menu brings dishes which are unique, yet simultaneously truly Thai.

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SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

Room 69-71, Soi Nana, 098-467-2944. Open TueThu 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sun 5pm-1am. MRT Hua Lamphong

4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chuaphloeng Rd., 02-672-9040-1.

Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-1am. MRT Khlong Toei

L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon This genius concept from Joel Robuchon, the most lauded French chef in the world, takes the chain restaurant to its most elegant extreme, giving diners the feel of an upscale sushi bar while serving up impeccable versions of French favorites. The menu is studded by L’Atelier highlights like free-range quail stuffed with foie gras and potato puree.

5/F, Mahanakorn Cube, 96 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0698. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:3010:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

Le Normandie Bangkok’s best fine dining restaurant continues to set the standard for service and cuisine among eateries with Michelin-star pretensions.

Chef Arnaud Dunand Sauthier, who enjoys a formidable resume after stints with culinary giants Georges Blanc, Marc Veyrat and Emile Jung, helms the classically French menu.

The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., Charoenkrung Rd., 02-659-9000 #7390. Open MonSat 7-10pm, noon-2pm

Nahm Still considered the “must-go” destination of every aspiring foodie in Bangkok, Nahm—helmed

by Australian chef David Thompson—does Thai food made with the very finest ingredients using the most traditional methods. Choose the set menus and put your faith in the chef’s knowledge of what’s in season. Metropolitan by COMO, 27 Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3388. Open daily 7-10:30pm; Mon-Fri noon-2pm

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NIGHTLIFE NEW

BACKSTAGE BAR

This Broadway-burlesque space on the lobby floor of a theater-themed hotel dishes out drinks courtesy of a Diageo World Class cocktail competition finalist. Amid Louis XIV-style velvet sofas and a liquor shelf surrounded by backstage mirrors, sip on things like Earthbeet, an earthy and woody drink with a beetroot-infused tequila base mixed with sweet vermouth, Campari, Cynar (artichoke liqueur) and mezcal, garnished with a slice of beetroot and torched liquorice. Got the munchies? Kha-kai (salty crispy bread sticks) are complimentary.

L/F, Playhaus Thonglor, 205/22-23 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-712-5747. Open daily 6pm-1am

Hot Spots

BEST ROOFTOP BARS

3

ABOVE ELEVEN

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PARK SOCIETY

The 55th-floor view from Centara’s rooftop puts this bar in the same league as high flyers like Vertigo at the Banyan Tree. Al fresco dining and drinking takes place under a swooping, red-lit arch, while chef Hugo Coudurier’s seasonal menus spotlight classic, rich steak dishes. Don’t miss the truffle-infused wagyu beef tenderloin Rossini—a menu staple and proven crowd-pleaser.

29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 Sathorn Rd., 02-6240000. Open daily 6-10:30pm. MRT Lumphini

55/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-6255. Siam. Open daily 6-11:30pm. BTS Chit Lom

‘

ABOVE ELEVEN

This bar and restaurant doesn’t just have great views of the city going for it; there’s also an adventurous menu of Japanese-Peruvian fusion (aka Nikkei) cuisine. Small plates like acebichado rolls (seabass, ika karage, avocado) and skewers of anticucho beef heart are bettered only by their signature cocktails. Note that if you’re sitting at the bar you’ll have your back to the skyline, so its worth booking a table in advance.

33/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111. Open daily 6pm-2am. BTS Nana

2

OCTAVE

The bar’s trendy-but-mature vibe is accentuated by striking views from the top floor of the Marriott Sukhumvit hotel. The first level features a long balcony filled with sculpture-like sofas, above which are a couple of private rooms and a third tier with 360-dedgree views around a circular bar. DJs play not-too-loud funky houseto a crowd of young executives and hotel guests drinking classic cocktails with slight twists. The food focuses on Asian-themed bar snacks.

45/F, Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000. Open daily 5pm-2am. BTS Thong Lo

5

RED SKY

The restaurant serves a menu that eschews fine dining in favor of more casual, shareable bites, while the outdoor terrace offers amazing views over Lumphini Park. To eat, try the burrato di bufala with heirloom tomatoes, pan-seared Tasmanian salmon with white asparagus, leek, fennel and hollandaise sauce, and Iberico belotta with fresh melon. Out at the bar it’s all about cocktails.

4

Y SPOTLIGHT

TOP KNOT

TOP KNOT

Sitting on top of the Hotel Once, this multi-level bar and grill offers 360-degree views from its upper level. You come here for quiet, intimate evenings and small gatherings among friends in an area of the city which is only just waking up to nightlife—but which has the authentic atmosphere of old Bangkok. The food menu however is not so Thai, offering a selection of barbecue specials like pork, chicken, beef, salmon and shrimp as well as pastas. To drink, it’s cocktails or local and imported beers.

8-9/F, Hotel Once Bangkok, 2074/99 Charoenkrung Soi 72/2, 02-688-2596. Open daily 6pmmidnight.

Teens of Thailand

Hiding behind a rugged wooden door is this small, moody bar belonging to a who’s-who of Bangkok’s art and nightlife scene, from fashion photographers and party organizers to mixologists and musicians. The real highlight is the vast collection of gin, from the must-try Hanami (the house pour) to the locally distilled Iron Balls and more. The decor is basic, mixing old shop-house charm with racy photographs. Our tip: tell the barman what kind of cocktail you like and let him make something new for you.

76 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 081-443-3784.

MRT Hua Lamphong. Open Wed-Sun 7pm-midnight.

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HEALTH + WELLNESS

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ABSOLUTE FIT FOOD CAFE NEW

This food arm of Bangkok’s Absolute wellness empire (also known for their yoga and Pilates studios) specializes in healthy food that also tastes delicious. Expect a bunch of low-calorie recipes that are high in nutrients, free of chemicals, trans fats, artificial coloring and refined sugars, ranging from the superfood-heavy spicy zucchini quinoa salad and green curry quinoa risotto to guilt-free desserts like blueberry chocolate tart made using spelt flour instead of wheat, with cocoa powder, blueberry, almond and coconut oil.

2/F, The Portico, Lang Suan Rd., 081-371-3721. BTS Chit Lom

Hot Spots BEST LUXURY SPAS Okura Take Relief massage, during which therapists roll a warm bamboo pole over your muscles to release stress before a soak in a big bathtub.

25/F, The Okura Prestige, 57 Wireless Rd., 02687-9000. Open daily 10am-10pm

1

AWAY SPA

AWAY SPA AT W BANGKOK

Split into four zones, this spa’s use of soft LED lights gives it a meditative, relaxing mood with walls and treatment beds glowing softly in your choice of green, red, purple or pink. Treatments range from the signature Away Massage Metamorphosis using essential oils to nurture stress points all the way to detox treatments like a fourhands mineral scrub.

6/F, W Bangkok, 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4160.

Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

2

I.SAWAN RESIDENTIAL SPA & CLUB

When celebrated Taiwanese designer Tony Chi created this club-style hotel spa, he made it one of Bangkok’s most beautiful wellness retreats.

The indoor-outdoor setting feels more like a jungle resort than a city spa, featuring six residential spa cottages, nine treatment bungalows, a hair salon and a nail bar—not to mention a modern fitness center, squash and tennis courts plus a 25-meter pool.

4

DEVARANA SPA BANGKOK

This is truly one of the best spas in Bangkok for an over-the-top spa session that goes well beyond a massage. Their signature treatments include The Heavenly Nantha Garden Experience, a 2.5-hour bath, scrub and massage that combines Thai, Ayurveda and Shiatsu techniques and The Harmony of Tad Si The Traditional Thai Medicine, a treatment using Thai herbal compresses and aromatic oils to relax muscles and pressure points.

Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 Rd., 02-624-0000. MRT Lumphini

Y SPOTLIGHT

5

THE ORIENTAL SPA

As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa is set in a century-old teak house including five specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments under a holistic philosophy. Try the Oriental Signature Treatment, a 1.5-hour aromatherapy signature massage of essential oils or the Herbal Wrap, an hour-long wrap using fresh herbs from Chiang Mai to target dehydrated skin.

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. BTS Saphan Taksin

OKURA SPA

Tucked on the 25th floor of the luxury Japanese hotel, this contemporary oriental space features five private treatment rooms hidden along a dimly-lit walkway. The highlight is the

Perched on the 11th floor, the spa offers the added bonus of a relaxing view over the greenery of Lumphini Park, amid its own dimly lit, forest-themed decor. Their special couples package takes place in the double treatment room which ensures couples can enjoy that view from the comfort of their own bathtub.

Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-6363596. Open daily 9am-10pm. MRT Silom

5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am-11pm. BTS Chit Lom

3

6

SO SPA

THE ORIENTAL SPA

Kashikiri Soda Onsen This onsen blends Japanese and Thai spa cultures. There are seven private tubs, including four tubs for couples and four private massage rooms. Try the basic 1.5-hour Kashikiri Balancing Bath for a 45-minute private onsen and 30-minute head, shoulders and back massage, or go for the full two-hour Onsen and Scrub. The massage menu ranges from Thai massage and hot Asian herbal compress to foot reflexology, sport massage by aroma oil, hot aroma oil massage and back-neck-shoulder-head massage.

84 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 081 268 4624. Open daily 9:30am-10:30pm

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GUIDE

ATTRACTIONS CHANG GLOBAL CARNIVAL NEW

This theme park located next to one of the city’s most popular parks boasts over 20 adrenaline-rushing rides from Europe.

Visitors can drop from heights of 40 meters on the the Booster, fly around hanging from a rollercoaster track on the Euro Star, and experience dizzying G forces in all manner of other spinning and swinging rides. There’s plenty of fairground games, food and drinks around, too.

Lumphini Square, Ratchadamri Rd. Open Mon-Fri 4-11pm; Sat-Sun 10am-10pm. MRT Lumphini

Hot Spots EXCITING SHOWS

3

BAAN SILAPIN

1

BAAN SILAPIN

MUAY THAI LIVE: THE LEGEND LIVES

This fast-paced live Thai boxing show was created and directed by Ekachai Uekrongtham, the artistic director of Action Theatre in Singapore and director of films like Beautiful Boxer and Pleasure Factory. The stage show features more than just Thai kickboxing, throwing in plenty of swashbuckling action and a sprinkling of romance, all performed by former Muay Thai champs and national boxers. Tickets are B1,200-1,500.

Warehouse 4, Asiatique the Riverfront, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd. Open Tue-Sun 8-9:30pm

2

CALYPSO

The first Broadway-style cabaret show in Bangkok, founded in 1988, consists of 70 artists performing a diverse variety of cultural shows, from arirang (Korean classic folk tale) to kinnaree (classical Thai dance) to a contemporary burlesque act. It’s all massively kitsch and something of a Bangkok institution. Tickets are B1,200 for the show only or B2,000 including dinner. Reservations at www.calypsocabaret.com.

Warehouse 3, Asiatique the Riverfront, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-688-1415. Open daily 8:15-9:45pm

This grand visual spectacular draws on the histories of Thailand’s four main regions— the North, the South, the Central Plains and the Northeast—to present an 80-minute history of a nation that delves into its religious beliefs and major festivals. Expect plenty of state-of-the-art effects and a full, on-site replica village, as well as a variety of pre-performance cultural activities. Showtime 8pm, doors open 5:30pm.

Tickets are B1,500-2,350 from www.siamniramit.com.

19 Thiem-Ruammit Rd., 02 649 9222. Open daily 5-10pm.

Y SPOTLIGHT

Also known as “The Artist’s House,” this century-old wooden house sits on the banks of Bang Luang Canal, the former home of a merchant family, and has been transformed into a public space celebrating traditional Thai culture. This hidden gem is a great place to experience the slow life of old Bangkok, whether that’s simply relaxing by the canal, strolling around the ancient homes, sampling traditional drinks, shopping for art or catching the Thai puppet show (daily except Wednesday, arrive before 2pm).

315 Wat Thongsala Ngam, Phasi Charoen-BangKaa Soi 28 (Phet Kasem), 02-868-5297. Open daily 10am-6pm

5

SIAM NIRAMIT BANGKOK

RAJADAMNERN BOXING STADIUM

4

RAJADAMNERN BOXING STADIUM

At Thailand’s most famous Muay Thai stadium, dating back to 1941, foreigners get seated ringside while the outer seats are occupied by hard-gambling locals—as much of a spectacle as the fighting. It’s also the definitive place to witness genuine, championship Thai boxing bouts. The beautiful art deco building holds matches for both amateurs and professionals three days a week. For ticket reservations, visit rajadamnern.com.

1 Ratchadamnoen Ave, Pom Prap Sattru Pai, 02-2814205. Open Sun-Mon 6:30-11pm; Wed-Thu 3-11pm

Museum Siam This completely restored colonial-style building is now an innovative, technology-driven musuem that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels.

4 Sanam Chai Rd., 02-225-2777. Open Tue-Sun 10am6pm. www.museumsiam.org

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ART

Y

BANGKOK ART AND CULTURE CENTRE (BACC) Set in the bustling Pathumwan area just across the road from Siam Square and MBK, this public art center has become a popular hot-spot for the people of Bangkok. Aside from the contemporary art exhibitions, BACC also contains small, design-centric stores, ranging from cafes and restaurants to book shops. The top floor also boasts a movie theater, complete with a decentsized stage for live performances.

939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630-8. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. BTS National Stadium

Hot Spots TOP EXHIBITIONS THIS MONTH

3

LIFE FORMS: NEW WORKS IN WOOD

Artist and designer Nucharin Wangphongsawasd presents her latest woodwork pieces inspired by how natural life takes forms in repetition, multiplication and division.

Through Jun 30, Serindia Gallery, Charoenkrung Soi 36.

1

CULTURES FROM TEN COUNTRIES

CULTURES FROM TEN COUNTRIES

Painter Weerapan Phiwhoom presents his latest collection of water color portraits capturing moments from daily life and cultural aspects from his travels around Asia.

4

THE ARCTIC IS AN EYE

This unique gallery set up in a river ferry welcomes the work of Katie Turnbull, who uses film to explore climate change in the Arctic Circle as depicted from environmental data and opinion polls, capturing the the social reality of this phenomenon.

5

REPAPER

The TCDC invited architects, designers and artists from around the country to create art using what they could find at a paper recycling factory, including toilet rolls, scrap paper and cardboard scraps.

Through Jun 12, Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC), 6/F, The Emporium, 662 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-664-8448. BTS Phrom Phong.

Y SPOTLIGHT

Through Jul 30, The Ferry Gallery, Maha Rat Rd., Tha Tien Pier.

Jun 3-30, Chomp, 63-65 Samsen Rd.

2

OSCILLATION

Five artists from Thailand, America and Japan—Arnont Nongyao, Be Takerng Pattanopas, Stephanie Powell, Eiji Sumi and Hiroshi Miyata—present a series of mixed-media works exploring the state of non-fixation and regeneration.

Through Jun 18, The Art Center, 7/F, Center of Academic Resources, Chulalongkorn University, Phaya Thai Rd., 02-2182-965

MOCA

THE ARCTIC IS AN EYE

This 18,000-sq-meter, five-story building in the north of Bangkok is Thailand’s biggest private museum and first significant permanent modern art collection open to the public. The works are nearly all post 1970s, and mostly post 1990s even, with plenty of realism and surrealism depicting rural life, religious Buddhist scenes or mythological motifs from the Ramayana. The highlight is the fourth floor's four rooms dedicated to the late Thawan Duchanee, Thailand’s most renowned contemporary painter.

Room 499, Bejajinda Building, Wiphawadi-Rangsit Rd., 02-953-1005-7. Open Tue-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat-Sun 11am6pm. www.mocabangkok.com

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Lat Phrao ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

Phahon Yothin ¾ËÅâ¸Թ

Chatuchak Park Êǹ¨µØ¨Ñ¡Ã

Chao Phraya River áÁ‹¹้Ó਌ҾÃÐÂÒ

Kamphaeng Phet ¡ÓᾧྪÃ

Bang Sue ºÒ§«×่Í

Ratchadapisek ÃѪ´ÒÀÔàÉ¡

Mo Chit ËÁͪԵ

2

Sutthisan ÊØ·¸ÔÊÒÃ

Saphan Khwai Êоҹ¤ÇÒÂ

Huai Khwang ËÑÇ¢ÇÒ§

Ari ÍÒÃÕÂ

Thailand Cultural Centre Èٹ ÇѲ¹¸ÃÃÁáË‹§»ÃÐà·Èä·Â

Sanam Pao ʹÒÁ໇Ò

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Ratchawithi Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒªÇÔ¶Õ

3

Phra Athit ·‹ÒàÃ×;ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

Victory Monument ͹ØàÊÒÇÃÕÂ

4

To Suvarnabhumi Airport

Phaya Thai ¾ÞÒä·

5

!7

7 Tha Chang ·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹ÒªŒÒ§

!5!6

Sukhumvit ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

!8 Chit Lom ªÔ´ÅÁ

Siam ÊÂÒÁ

Ratchadamri ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

Phloen Chit à¾ÅÔ¹¨Ôµ

Nana ¹Ò¹Ò

Asok ÍâÈ¡

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Phetchaburi ྪúØÃÕ

Ramkhamhaeng ÃÒÁ¤Óá˧

Phetchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ªÃºØÃÕ

Ratchathewi ÃÒªà·ÇÕ

National Stadium ʹÒÁ¡ÕÌÒ áË‹§ªÒµÔ

Makkasan ÁÑ¡¡ÐÊѹ

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BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

3 Vimanmek Mansion

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumphini Park

MRT

5 Khao San Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

!5 Siam Paragon

River/Klong (canal)

7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

32 W H E R E T H A I LAND I J UNE 2 0 1 6

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

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Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service.

Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price.

There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS­ Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines.

Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130.

The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40.

There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak.

Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS­ While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 JUNE 2016 I W HERE THA ILA N D 33

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Y

21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

1

3

!1

!4

9

!8

1 Taking in the sweeping views of the city with a colorful cocktail in hand at Above Eleven, a rooftop bar with stellar views. See page 28.

7 Browsing for fun gadgets and !3 Indulging in the delicious hot choc- !8 Sitting ringside and blending with stylish stationery at Another Story, a multi-label concept store inside Emquartier mall. See page 6.

olate and churros at Chu, a humble cafe that also dishes out some of the best breakfasts in town. See page 12.

2 Descending the steps to Maggie Choo’s, the sultry Silom nightspot styled on Shanghai opium dens. See page 28.

8 Indulging in a long, lazy brunch at Gastro 1/6, where the adorable garden setting and delicious breakfast menu combines for a perfect morning.

See page 12.

!4 Washing our troubles away at the

3 Basking by the river with a cold beer and enjoying the slow life at Baan Silapin, a century-old wooden house.

See page 30.

4 Sampling molecular Indian dishes at one of Asia’s best restaurants, Gaggan. See page 25.

9 Tasting the creatively crafted dishes at Err, a riverside restaurant specializing in casual Thai dining. See page 27.

private tubs of Kashikiri Soda Onsen, the Japanese-style hotspring pools that also come with packages for aroma body massages, facial treatments and other spa services. See page 29.

the local energy while watching a fight at Rajadamnoen Stadium, the official home of championship Muay Thai bouts. See page 30.

!9 Kick-starting the morning with sweet and savory crepes at Crepes & Co, a homey brunch institution set in a charming white house with a relaxing garden. See page 12.

!5 Checking out cutting-edge Thai @0 Partying at the three-story night-

!0 Refueling with an earthy, cold-

home decor products at Room Concept Store, a multi-label lifestyle shop inside the luxurious Central Embassy.

See page 7.

club DJ Station, the grand dame of gay clubbing that’s constantly packed with shirtless guys and danceable beats. See page 28.

brew coffee at Rocket, the perfect afternoon pick-me-up. See page 12.

!6 Savoring the authentic royal Thai @1 Taking a journey through the

5 Savoring the sunset along with a

cuisine at Blue Elephant, a fine-dining

cocktail at Red Sky on the rooftop of CentralWorld mall. See page 28.

!1 Getting your adrenaline pumping institution in a beautifully restored restored colonial-style building now

6 Browsing for unique decor pieces at Alexander Lamont, known for his European-style craftsmanship with Asian touches. See page 6.

!7 Enjoying a pampering session !2 Chowing down on the legendary at W Bangkok’s Away Spa, where

at Chang Global Carnival, the city’s latest theme park. See page 30.

kuy tiew kua khai (22) on the streets of Chinatown after dark. See page 19.

mansion. See page 27.

history of Siam at Museum Siam, a turned into an innovative, technologydriven museum with plenty of interactive panels. See page 30

treatments range from a four-hand mineral scrubs to salon grooming services like pedicures and manicures. See page 29.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

34 W H E R E T H AILAND I J UNE 2 0 1 6

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Where to find Hotels in Bangkok The AETAS Bangkok All Seasons Bangkok Siam Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11 Amari Watergate Amara Bangkok Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa Arnoma Baan Noppawong Bally’s Studio Suites Banyan Tree Bangkok Best Western Sukhumvit Cabochon Hotel & Residence Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Centara Grand at Central World Centara Hotels & Resorts Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok Conrad Bangkok Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Dusit Thani Bangkok Emporium Suites Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Four Points by Sheraton Four Seasons Bangkok GLOW Pratunam Grand Hyatt Erawan Grand Mercure Park Avenue Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Holiday Inn Silom Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 Hotel Muse Imperial Queens Park InterContinental Bangkok JW Marriott Bangkok The Landmark Bangkok Le Fenix Sukhumvit LIT Bangkok Luxx Majestic Grande Mandarin Hotel Mandarin Oriental Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit 57

WHERE DISTRIBUTION LIST_Jun_2016.indd 35

where Thailand

Hotels in Other Provinces

Dean & Deluca

Miracle Grand Convention

Anantara Rasananda Koh Phangan Villa

The Australian Pub & BBQ

Montien Riverside

Resort & Spa

Yunomori Onsen & Spa

Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit Sukhumvit

Chandara Resort

Pizza Romana Pala

Novotel Bangkok Siam Square

Conrad Koh Samui

La Grande Perle

Novotel Bangkok Impact

Dara Samui Beach Resort & Spa Villa

Kuppadeli

Oaks Bangkok Sathorn

Dusit D2 Baraquda Pattaya

Kalpapruek

The Okura Prestige Bangkok

Dusit Thani Krabi Beach resort

Jim Thompson Restaurant

Park Plaza Sukhumvit

Grand Mercure Phuket Patong

Viva & Aviv

Pathumwan Princess

Hyatta Regency HuaHin

Mandarin Oriental At Paragon

The Peninsula Bangkok

InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam

Phachara Suites

JW Marriott Khao Lak Resort & Spa

Plaza Athénée Bangkok

JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa

Pullman Bangkok King Power

Le Méridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa

Radisson Blu Plaza

Renaissance Koh Samui Resort & Spa

Radisson Suites Bangkok

Renaissance Phuket Resort & Spa

Ramada Encore Bangkok

Santiburi Resort

Ramada Plaza Menam Riverside

Shangri-La Chiang Mai

Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong

Sheraton HuaHin Resort & Spa

Riva Surya

Sofitel So Huahin

Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers

Tamarind Village Chiang Mai

Siam Kempinski Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit

Serviced Apartments

The Berkeley Hotel

Adelphi Forty-Nine

The Continent Hotel Bangkok

Courtyard Marriott

Mercure & Ibis Bangkok Siam The Metropolitan Bangkok Millennium Hilton

Shangri-La Bangkok

The Davis Bangkok The Eugenia Hotel & Spa

Shopping Malls

The Siam

CentralWorld

Siam @ Siam Design Hotel & Spa

The Emporium Department Complex

Sivatel Bangkok

Peninsula Plaza

Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit

The River City Shopping Complex

Sofitel So Bangkok The St. Regis Bangkok

Others

The Sukhothai Bangkok

Uber Black limousines

Swissotel Le Concorde Swissotel Nai Lert Park VIE Hotel Bangkok ViVa Garden W Hotel Bangkok The Westin Grande Sukhumvit

Elemis Spa at The St. Regis Bangkok The Kiwi Bangkok Sports Pub & Grill

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Where reaches over 100,000 visitors each month. For sales enquiries, contact advertising@ asia-city.co.th or call 02-6249638.

TAT Tourist Information Counter at Suvarnabhumi Airport (arrivals) Chao Phraya Express Boats Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) Blue Elephant Restaurant Devarana Spa

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