Where® Thailand October 2016

Thailand

PLUS

OCTOBER 2016 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

®

WWW.WHE R E T H A I L A N D.C O M

Bangkok’s best spas New arrivals on Samui

LOCAL LUXE Where to find Thai-made treasures in Bangkok LES CLEFS D’OR THAIL AND

THE PREFERRED PUBLICATION OF YOUR HOTEL CONCIERGE

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Jewelry Trade Center The Jewelry Trade Center (JTC) is

• Export quality at wholesale prices, Sales up to 60%

Thailand’s leading trade premises for diamonds,

gems

and

assorted

• The

biggest

gem

and

jewelry

jewelry. It comprises over 180,000

shopping mall in South East Asia.

sq.m of retail, office and residential

• Over 300 reputable retailers and 1,500 wholesalers.

space, constructed upon 4.5 acres of land in Bangkok’s thriving central

• More than 20 years of experience in gems and jewelry market.

business district.

SHOPPING WITH CONFIDENCE RESPECTABILITY Over 300 sellers, all are included within the JTC Trust Shop customer feedback and rating system.

VALUE Jewelry Trade Center retailers offer quality and affordability unlike anywhere in Bangkok.

CONFIDENCE Two gem laboratories – AIGS and GIL – are providing fast, accurate and affordable identification and grading services for loose or jewelry-set gemstones.

TOURIST PRIVILEGE JTC Welcome Gifts

Special gift for tourists. Contact our reception staff at JTC. You will get a gorgeous shopping bag or your birthstone.

Personal Shoppers

Our personal shoppers are prompt to give you advice about buying gems and jewelry.

Finding your perfect gift, simply ask the reception for our service.

JEWELRYTRADECENTERTHAILAND

@JTCTHAILAND WWW.JEWELRYTRADECENTER.COM

Jewelry Trade Center 919/1 Jewelry Trade Center building, Silom road, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Thailand Tel: +66(0) 2 630 1000

Marks & Spencer Outlet

Minor Outlet

The Outlet 24

His & Her Outlet

Supersports Outlet

Footwork Void

At Bangkok Fashion Outlet, you can pick up Marks & Spencer clothing and accessories for up to 80% off prices.

One of Thailand’s largest distributors of international lifestyle brands with spectacular offerings on adult footwear, clothes, designer shoes and clothing for children.

IN DOWNTOWN BANGKOK

OVER 500 TOP THAI AND INTERNATIONAL BRANDS

90 SALE UP TO

Bangkok Fashion Outlet is a part of the Central Group, one of the biggest retailers in Thailand. It offers attractive deals from big brands outlet with discounts up to 90%. Over 500 top

The Outlet24 is a one-stop shop for fashion products featuring premium brands in Thailand offering the best deals with discounts up to 90% on a wide selection of brand names.

Supersport is one of the world’s leading sports brand with discount up to 80%, Supersports Outlet ensures you will have access to the best sporting brands at fraction of usual cost.

The SAHA Group is widely recognized within Thailand business community and their HIS & HER OUTLET offers Le Coq Sportif, Lacoste, Wacoal, BSC, Arrow, Mizuno and many more, all with discounts up to 70%.

With its cosmopolitan range of imported fashion footwear and accessories, Footwork Void is your source for the latest in footwear that is the perfect accessory to your funky urban lifestyle - at outlet prices!

Thai and International brands are offered at reduced-price.

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Remark : With more brands such as PLAYBOY & FRENCH KITTY, CROCS, GIORDANO, and TAYWIN OUTLET

Tourist Privilege B FO We l co m e G i f t s fo r to u r i st privilege. Please contact our reception staff at infomation counter on the G floor in order to get 200.- voucher

Contact information : Bangkok Fashion Outlet 919/1 Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok,10500 Thailand Tel: +66 2 630 1000 www.bangkokfashionoutlet.com

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CONTENTS where

®

l THAILAND l OCTOBER 2016

NATIONAL TREASURES

Shop for Thai-made luxury goods and the most in-demand designer labels at Bangkok's best boutiques.

The Guide

6

BANGKOK

24 NIGHTLIFE Find out where the best cocktails are being poured with our guide to Bangkok's secret bars.

25 DINING Head out for a memorable dinner at one of these Thai fine dining institutions.

28 SHOPS+SERVICES From cool local fashion at Chatuchack to vintage finds at Talad Rot Fai, here are the city's top markets.

29 HEALTH+WELLNESS

14

Hair and nails get taken very seriously at these wonderful salons for pre-beach beautification.

WELLNESS

10 HEALING HANDS

30 ATTRACTIONS

Check-in to one of the city's top spas for an afternoon of pampering.

Rainy afternoon? Why not visit one of Bangkok's luxury cinemas to watch a movie in style.

AROUND THAILAND

31 ART

14 SAVORING SAMUI

Book a table at one of the island's best new restaurants for an evening to remember.

This month's must-visit exhibitions and galleries.

EXPLORING

32 NAVIGATE Essential tips on getting around.

18 LOWER SILOM Discover the best of both old and new Bangkok on Silom Road, where shop-house restaurants rub shoulders with bars and galleries.

ALSO INSIDE 4

20 CHINATOWN

18

Take a walk along Yaowarat Road—the heart of Bangkok's Chinese immigrant community— to get aquainted with Teochew culture and incredible street food.

Where Thailand is proud to be an associated publication of the Thailand Chapter of Les Clefs d'Or (the International Concierge Association).

Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon

Art Director Dith Chang

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grégoire Glachant

Designer Wariya Whangwaewklang

MVP | EXECUTIVE President Donna W. Kessler Vice President, Operations Angela E. Allen Chief Travel Editor Geoff Kohl General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Staff Writer Bonnie Sananvatananont

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Features Associate Monruedee Jansuttipan Marketing Executive Plaifon Chienvichai Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo

Contributors Natcha Saguankiattichai, Monrueduee Jansuttipan, Earn Saenmuk, Tessa Domzalski Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Account Manager Suda Angsuputiphant Cover Photo by Harnn Heritage Spa

HOT DATES

34 21 THINGS WE LOVE

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Vice President, National Sales Rick Mollineaux Director of Partnerships & National Digital Sales Bridget Cody National Sales Coordinator David Gately

MVP | MANUFACTURING & TECHNOLOGY Director of Manufacturing Donald Horton

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@ Morris.Com

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, Room A, 100 North Sathorn Rd. Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

www.wherethailand.com

@where_thailand

Morris Comunications Chairman William S. Morris III President & Ceo William S. Morris IV Production Director of Production Kris Miller

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Senior Regional Editorial Director Margaret Martin Design Director Jane Frey

Photography Director Susan Strayer Creative Coordinator Beverly Mandelblatt E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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HOT DATES

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

OCT 15-16

BRIGHTER TIMES Bangkok gets a whole lot more colorful thanks to the return of The Color Run, dubbed the “Happiest 5K on the Planet”—an international fun run that sees competitors covered from head to toe with various colored powder until they reach the massive color throwing party behind the finish line. Register at www.thecolorrun.co.th Airport Rail Link, Makkasan Station

OCT 1-2 AND EVERY FRI-SUN

THROUGH OCT 10

OCT 16

OCT 18

The city’s biggest outdoor container market, Artbox, returns to a brand new location, promising some 100 trendy food stalls, over 150 stalls selling clothes at affordable prices, 20 stalls selling home decor and 50 stalls selling DIY and handmade products.

Thailand hosts its annual nation-wide Vegetarian Festival, during which Bangkok’s Chinatown becomes filled with vegetarian food stalls waving yellow flags, roadside Chinese opera performances and crowded temples.

Down south in Phuket, things get a little more wild with the tribute to God ceremonies including fire-walking, body piercing and other body mortification rituals.

Celebrate World Food Day at Big Food – For the Love of Food (and Drinks), a fair where some of the most innovative culinary talents in the city— Bo.Lan, Seven Spoons, Le Du and Gula to name a few—gather to serve their best dishes. There also promises to be plenty of craft beers, live music and fun activities to complete the day.

The ex-Smiths frontman, Morrissey, makes his Bangkok debut as part of his world tour for a concert that promises the best hits from across his 10 solo albums, including 2014’s World Peace is None of Your Business. Tickets are B2,200 from Thaiticketmajor.com.

MARKET PRICES

Chatuchak Park, MRT Khamphaengphet/BTS Saphan Kwai

VEGETARIAN GO FESTIVAL BIG

CHARMING MAN

Moonstar Studio, Ladprao 90

Cho Why, 17 Soi Nana, Charoengkrung Rd. MRT Hua Lamphong

Yaowarat Rd. MRT Hua Lamphong

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EXPLORING BANGKOK

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TREASURES OF THAILAND

Rout out Bangkok’s best luxury finds, from the most highly-prized international brands to incredible local crafts.

ALEXANDER LAMONT

HOME DECOR ALEXANDER LAMONT Drawing from his experiences living in both Europe and Asia, Alexander Lamont’s beautiful decor items successfully blend European techniques with the subtle mystique of Asian art. The materials, from bronze to stingray skin, are always luxurious and meticulously handcrafted by the local artisans under Alexander Lamont’s employ, ensuring that each piece of furniture is both unique and meaningful.

Room L2-01/1, 2/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5772. Open daily 10am-10pm. www. alexanderlamont.com. BTS Ploen Chit

JIM THOMPSON The original, main store of this pioneering Thai silk brand stocks silk clothes and accessories across its significant three floors. The space is classic and palatial, paneled with teak from wall to wall, and shows off a range of elegant silks, from pillowcases and scarves

to clubby neckties. There are other branches at Jim Thompson House (a must-visit within the walking distance of BTS National Stadium) as well as various malls and five-star hotels around Bangkok.

9 Surawong Rd., 02-632-8100. Open daily 9am9pm. BTS Sala Daeng

OTOP HERITAGE One of a number of Thai craft shops under The One Tambon One Product (OTOP) brand, this store specializes in luxury items produced in Thailand. It features more than a thousand handicraft products selected from different producers around country, most of them home decorative items and fashion accessories. Other OTOP sites include OTOP The Walking Street in Silom (02-635-7061) and OTOP The Avenue (096-231-2843) in Ramintra.

4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605975. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit

OTOP HERITAGE

JIM THOMPSON

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EXPLORING BANGKOK FASHION ASAVA This designer’s elegant womenswear is aimed at business women living in a fast paced world. Its signature look incorporates block muted tones, taking a step back from flashy high-fashion design to focus on simple elegance instead. Since its launch, the brand has also released ASV, a more casual brand featuring the same sophisticated fabrics and techniques but with more patterns and lower prices.

HARNN

Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-6526. Open Mon-Fri 9am6pm

VATANIKA This new-wave Thai brand’s unique and exotic designs are available in everything from evening gowns to workwear. Representing a strong, workaholic woman who’s also sexy and stylish, the brand has collaborated with the likes of L’Oreal and Diageo Moet Hennessey. Now, not only are Vatanika’s clothes available in many department stores in Bangkok, but she recently opened her first showroom in Paris.

VICKTEERUT

THANN SANCTUARY

2/F, Central Chitlom, 1027 Phloen Chit Rd., 02 793 7000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Chit Lom

FLYNOW What started as a small womenswear store in 1983 by local designer Somchai Songwattana has now earned itself a spot as one of the top fashion houses in the country. The brand’s signature is black-and-white high fashion designs, but it has also expanded to more colorful collections that focus on simple, elegant looks.

Siam Paragon, 999 Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-9410. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam

VICKTEERUT Founded by designer Teerut “Vick” Wongwatanasin, Vickteerut is a minimal-yet-elegant womenswear label and one of the fastest-rising names on the Thai fashion scene.

The brand has a strong signature style to each collection, with a pared-back color palette that varies from grays to eath tones.

Cutting is simple but full of subtle details.

112 Thonglor Soi 4, 02-782-8179. Open daily 10am8pm. BTS Thong Lo

HARNN

COSMETICS HARNN What began as a luxury, Thai-made soap business has expanded to include massage balms and bath oils, shampoos, conditioners and more, all utilizing natural ingredients from pepper and green tea to jasmine and lavender. The store comes with a quality spa treatment service where guests can try out the products first hand in a soothing spa session.

3/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-6649935. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

ASAVA

THANN SANCTUARY Ingredients like rice bran oil and other locally sourced products ensure Thann’s products are neither harmful to the body nor the environment. Initially known for its aromatherapy-focused spa products like scented candles and oils, the brand now sells a huge collection that consists of skincare products, facial serums, lip bams and even their own range of herbal teas. The flagship store also comes with a spa that focuses on natural therapy in a soothing, cool-gray atmosphere using the brand’s latest products.

3/F, Gaysorn, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-1399.

Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Chit Lom

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LUXURY MALLS CENTRAL EMBASSY The Phloen Chit area’s luxury mall dedicates eight floors to retail shops from some of the world’s most exciting fashion brands, including Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin and Jil Sander. Food-wise there are a host of high-end local restaurants alongside popular eateries from around the world, such as dessert bar Chikalicious from New York and French patisserie Paul.

There’s also a deluxe cinema on the sixth floor, where you can lie down under a duvet and enjoy a glass of wine.

SIAM PARAGON

1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-119-7777. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

SIAM PARAGON Bangkok’s original ultra-luxury mall has yet to fade from the spotlight thanks to its prime location in the city’s biggest hub for shopping and next to the one of the busiest BTS stations. The towering glass facade contains a huge selection of clothing stores, from Hermes and Chanel to trendy favorites like H&M and Zara, as well as a wide array of restaurants and a huge food court. Entertainment spots include a bowling alley, an IMAX cinema, an outdoor concert venue, and Siam Ocean World, Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium.

CENTRAL EMBASSY

THE EMQUARTIER

LUXX

Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. Open daily 10am-10pm.

BTS Siam

THE EMQUARTIER One of Bangkok’s latest shopping malls, EmQuartier is packed with high-end boutiques including flagship stores from MCM, Jimmy Choo, Valentino, Sephora and A Bathing Ape, plus cult Asian brands Stylenanda (Korea) and Beams (Japan). As a bonus, the striking development also features a spiraling tower of restaurants, 40-meter-high man-made waterfall and plenty of green space.

The EmDistrict, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000.

Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

SILOM +662 635 8800 reservations@staywithluxx.com LANGSUAN +662 684 1111 reservationsxl@staywithluxx.com

www.staywithluxx.com

stay with LUXX in bangkok

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EXPLORING BANGKOK JEWELRY LOTUS ARTS DE VIVRE Known for animal-themed creations that draw on Asian mythology, this brand founded by German jewelers Rolf and Helen von Bueren focuses on making accessories made from rare and unorthodox materials such as coconut shells, bamboo, stingray leather, seeds, ostrich eggs and more. When combined with traditional craft techniques from India, Japan, Indonesia and Thailand, the result is luxury hand-crafted jewelry that promises to be one of a kind.

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

unicorns, stars and rabbits shine loudest from the stores imaginative, luxurious display boxes. Expect to find equally eccentric decoration at the brand’s flagship store, where the rings are displayed alongside miniature mythical statues.

What’s your favorite luxury Thai brand?

2/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 021605875. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Ploen Chit

Surachai Thong-On, Banyan Tree

41/21 Rama 3 Rd., 02-294-1821. Open Mon-Fri 8am-5pm.

Naraya is always a top pick when it comes to our female guests—our Japanese visitors in particular always ask about this store.

They love the handbags in Thai-style patterns. The name is quite international now, but there’s nothing like shopping for it in its original country.

MATINA AMANITA Rings combining precious stones with and metalstake inspiration from fantasy and fairytales in the whimsical designs of Matina Sukhahuta. Brightly colored owls,

CONCIERGE PICKS

MANITA AMANITA

Boonmee Tangwong, Sheraton Grande The most popular brand for our guests has got to be Jim Thompson. It is the best option for silk products in the country. Otherwise, we always tell them to stroll around Asiatique and River City as they are good spots for finding a variety of Thai luxury brands they might not know about.

Lersan Poonongong, JW Marriot Greyhound is a very trendy pick for our guests when it comes to local brands. It is known for its simple and plain look that still keeps things sophisticated. You can also try the delicious food at their cafes after you shop.

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WELLNESS

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

HEALING HANDS

Check into one of Bangkok’s best luxury spas for some serious post-flight pampering.

I.SAWAN RESIDENTIAL SPA & CLUB The Place: When celebrated Taiwanese designer Tony Chi designed this club-style hotel spa, he made one of Bangkok’s most beautiful wellness retreats. The indoor-outdoor setting feels more like a jungle resort than a city spa, featuring six residential spa cottages, nine treatment bungalows, a hair salon and a nail bar—not to mention a modern fitness center, squash and tennis courts plus a 25-meter pool.

I.SAWAN RESIDENTAL SPA & CLUB

The Treatment: We recommend setting aside the entire afternoon for the six-hour “Heavenly Retreat.” The treatment starts with a signature body scrub and moisture wrap accompanied by peaceful music, followed by a traditional Thai massage and then a facial. You’ll also get a healthy spa meal (think fresh fruits and cucumber sandwiches) to keep the stomach from grumbling while you’re getting pampered. Things wind to an end with a hand and feet ritual—trust us, six hours still doesn’t feel long enough.

The Price: The two-hour spa package starts at B5,500 while the six-hour option will set you back B13,200. Meanwhile, I.Sawan’s signature massage costs B3,200 for one hour or a traditional Thai massage for B2,600 an hour. For something more affordable, try the Purity Foot Ritual massage or the traditional Thai foot massage for B1,500 an hour.

5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 9am-11pm. BTS Chit Lom. bit.ly/2dir6kW

THE ORIENTAL SPA

THE ORIENTAL SPA

The Place: As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa is set in a spacious, three-floor century-old teak house including five specialty suites, 10 private rooms and a huge variety of treatments. Decorated with traditional Thai ornaments and furniture, as well as a breezy pond filled with lotus leaves, this is the perfect place for relaxation while keeping things cultural.

The Treatment: There’s nothing like a good old spa treatment to fight off the jetlag at the start of a holiday, and the Oriental spa provides just that. Appropriately named the “Jetlag” treatment, this 1-2 hour pampering sesh’ banishes the dehydration and sluggishness to leave you feeling renewed. How? With a powerful combo of Thai and Western massage techniques that truly bring out the best of both worlds. Worth flying for!

The Price: The Oriental Signature treatment ranges from B4,500 for 1.5 hours or B6,000 for 2 hours while the Jetlag and Traditional Thai packages cost B2,900 for 1-hour and B4,500 for 2 hours.

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.mandarinoriental.com

I.SAWAN RESIDENTAL SPA & CLUB

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WELLNESS DEVARANA SPA BANGKOK The Place: Sitting behind Thai-style doubledoor gates is a spacious white-washed room decorated with traditional Thai art pieces and a soothing reflective pond. The massage rooms come in the form of canopied tents that offer plenty of natural light, along with space and couches for lounging around before or after the massage.

The Treatment: The Heavenly Nantha Garden Experience is a 2.5-hour bath, scrub and massage that combines Thai, Ayurvedic and Shiatsu techniques, while The Harmony of Tad Si The Traditional Thai Medicine uses Thai herbal compresses and aromatic oils to relax muscles and pressure points. A variety of a la carte options are also available including head, back and foot massages.

The Price: The Heavenly Nantha Garden Experience costs B5,000 while the Harmony of Tad Si comes at a more affordable B3,200. A la carte massage options range from B2,000 to 3,900.

Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02636-3596. Open daily 9am-10pm. MRT Silom. www.devaranaspa.com

OKURA SPA The Place: Tucked away on the 25th floor of the luxury Japanese hotel, this contemporary oriental space features five private treatment rooms hidden along a dimly-lit walkway. The space also comes with an infinity pool that offers one of the best views of the city, perfect for a dip after the pampering session.

The Treatment: Start with a professional consultation to make sure everything about your signature Okura Getaway package is just right for you.

Another highlight is the Okura Ta-Ke Relief bamboo massage, during which warm bamboo poles are put to work shifting those knots.

The Price: The Okura Getaway costs B3,500 for an hour or B5,000 for 1.5 hours, while the Ta-Ke Relief massage costs B3,600 for 1.5 hours.

25/F, The Okura Prestiwge, 57 Wireless Rd., 02687-9000. Open daily 10am-10pm www.okurabangkok.com

OKURA SPA

AWAY SPA The Place: W Bangkok’s fondness for LED lights usually gives its restaurants and rooms a nightclub vibe. The effect at Away Spa is surprisingly relaxing. Beds glow softly in your choice of green, red, purple or pink, while the dim, labyrinthine halls induce an almost meditative mood.

Other facilities include a sauna, steam room, Turkish bath, Jacuzzi and VIP suite, as well as The Style Lab, which offers grooming, manicure and pedicure services.

The Treatment: Five hours of head-to-toe muscle cajoling awaits those who sign in for the Away Re-charge Escape Metamorphosis. There are body scrubs, body wraps, massages, facials, and hand-and-foot rubs galore, topped off with a warm bath with soothing sounds. Short for time? Try the Away Massage Metamorphosis— all of the above condensed down to one hour.

The Price: The Away Re-charge Escape Metamorphosis will set you back B12,000. The onehour alternative is a more affordable B2,900.

6/F, W Bangkok, 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4160.

Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Chong Nonsi. www. whotelbangkok.com/spa

OKURA SPA

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THE GRANDE SPA The Place: Set in a spacious, wooden house, the spa is bathed in the warm glow of candles, while aromatic scents, wooden Buddha images and other traditional carvings set a traditional tone.

There’s also a Thai style sala for healthy meals outdoors, a fully equipped gym and a swimming pool tucked away in a jungle of trees.

The Treatment: Go all out with the “Invigorating Journey,” a six-hour treatment that aims to banish all tension from the body. Things kick off with a relaxing trio of steam, sauna and Jacuzzi to relax and open the pores. You’ll then be taken in for a full body scrub using a blend of authentic natural ingredients to prepare for the upcoming body wrap and a 60-minute full body massage. End the perfect day with a healthy spa meal served

in a relaxing Thai sala before the final head massage. If that’s not the ultimate key to sending your troubles away, we’re not sure what is.

The Price: The Invigorating Journey treatment costs B8,000, while other “express” treatments, taking only 30 minutes, range from B1,800-2,000 and include head massage, back massage, foot massage and facial. Fourtyfive minute body scrubs are also available for B1,800 including the Oriental Herb Scrub and the Tea Tree & Lavender Salt Scrub.

Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 205 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8888. BTS Asoke

DEVARANA SPA BANGKOK

DEVARANA SPA BANGKOK

SABADO SABROSO SATURDAY BRUNCH WITH ALTITUDE

A LA CARTE BUFFET THB 1,290++ per person / 11.30 - 14.30 hrs Every Saturday at UNO MAS Level 54, Centara Grand at CentralWorld FOR RESERVATIONS PLEASE CONTACT T: 02-100-6255

E: diningcgcw@chr.co.th

UNOMASBANGKOK

UNOMAS_BANGKOK

unomasbangkok.com @UNOMASBANGKOK

AWAY SPA

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AROUND THAILAND JAHN Conrad Koh Samui’s modern Thai restaurant has reinvigorated its menu with one of the most elaborate set dinners on the island.

Every course is presented in a way that reflects the journey of its ingredients. In the Plaa Pla Bai Bua, that means seared tuna placed on a lotus leaf and drizzled with mineral water—this, apparently, depicts fishermen heading out to sea in the early morning.

SAVOR SAMUI

Check out the Gulf island’s hottest new restaurant openings.

Conrad Koh Samui, 49/8-9 Hillcrest Rd., Taling Ngam, 077-915-888. goo.gl/qUHxeu

SAMANSAMO After a brief relationship with Bangkok’s beloved Peppina, this new pizza and pasta spot at Chaweng Beach’s Malibu resort has now gone it alone. The menu still features Peppina-like pizzas such as the pomodoroni and ricotta cheese and piennulo (dried cherry tomatoes) parma ham.

Chaweng Beach, 15 Moo 2, Bo Phut, 077-231-546.

Open daily 11am-10pm. www.malibukohsamui.com

TAPAS BAR JAHN

The Library’s ever-popular Drink Gallery has introduced a new Thai tapas bar. Boasting surprisingly cheap prices, the menu is packed with famous Thai dishes such as spicy fish cakes (thod man), deep fried pork salad (moo klunk foon) and grilled beef (sue rong hai) to go with your killer cocktail from next door.

The Library, Chaweng Beach, 14/1 Moo 2, Bo Phut, 077-422-767. Open daily 4pm-11pm. www.thelibrary.co.th

LINK CUISINE

THE PAGE

TAMARINA

THE PAGE

This sunset dining hot spot in the north of the island is run by the same people behind Bangkok’s longstanding Pola Pola Restaurant & Bar. The chic modern tropical interior comes from leading Thai product designers Thinkk Studio, who contributed all the chairs, tables and lamps. Thai fusion and Italian dishes dominate the menu with picks like truffle pizza, Australian spicy beef salad and the whopping mixed seafood box. Get there early to claim a daybed on the wooden terrace to enjoy the sunset with a mojito in hand.

The Library hotel, a long-time favorite among design-savvy travelers, has expanded its beachfront restaurant, The Page.

You’ll now find not just more seats perfectly poised for beach views, but also a list of 40 new dishes drawn from old Thai recipes. Go for the eight-course Samrab Thai set dinner to get a well-rounded hit of rare flavors like beef stewed in shrimp paste soup (gaeng run juan nua nong lai) and coconut noodles, grilled pork and pumpkin curry (ray rai na gaeng krati fuktong).

14/22 Moo 5, Ban Plai Leam, Bo Phut, 077-423-635.

Open daily 10am-10pm. goo.gl/oSuGuR

The Library, Chaweng Beach, 14/1 Moo 2, Bo Phut, 077-422-767. www.thelibrary.co.th

CLYDE CAFE These experienced bakers supply pastries to hotels all over the island. Now you can also taste their treats at this cafe located at a new open-air shopping arcade. Pick up some sourdough or a baguette to go, or step things up with a delicious panaeng pulledpork burger.

162/149 Moo 2, Chaweng Road, Bo Phut, 077-601402. Open daily 9am-8pm. www.clydecafe.com

LINK CUISINE This beachside eatery comes with a stunning all-wood design that’s rustic yet sleek.

Take a place on the balcony and tuck into international fare like pizza and pasta plus fresh seafood.

79/3 Moo 1, Fisherman’s Village, Bo Phut, 077-963493. Open daily 10am-11pm. www.linkcuisine.com

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ORIENTAL ESCAPE

+ where I

MAHACHAI

TRAIN TO HUA HIN

ANANTARA CRUISE

GO SLOW

Five slow-life escapes around Bangkok.

AO MAHACHAI

RAI PLUK RAK

Stroll through the mangroves in Samut Sakhon

Take a scenic and educational walk through the massive 1,600-acre mangrove area at Ao Mahachai mangrove forest, just two hours outside Bangkok, where a campaign from the Samut Sakhon governor recently saw an extra 770 mangrove trees planted. Offering a great way to escape from the bustle of daily life, the research area boasts an impressive nature trail around the Tha Chin River where travelers can spend the day exploring on a well-constructed bamboo path that takes you deep into nature. Those feeling a bit more adventurous can make a weekend of it by camping at the on-site camp grounds.

Ao Mahachai Mangrove Forest Natural Education Center, Bang Ya Praek, Samut Sakhon, 080-459-3164

Brought to you by TAT

TAT_October_2016.indd 15

Cruise on a barge to Ayutthaya

For those looking for a quick and breezy river escape, book a three-day trip on the 100-year old rice barge dubbed Anantara Song, which has been rebuilt using solid teak and converted into a floating palace that comes with five-star service from Anantara Hotel. The luxury cruise offers a peaceful journey along the Chao Phraya River towards Thailand’s ancient capital of Ayutthaya, stopping off at historic temples and traditional craft centers along the way. Kick back and relax with the fully-stocked bar on board and a kitchen that serves up breakfast, lunch and dinner. www.bangkok-cruises.anantara.com

Explore Chanthaburi’s old-school canal community

Colloquially known as “No-Land Village,” this hidden gem of a community, three hours outside Bangkok, got its name from the fact that it is made up of wooden houses built over the water, meaning boats are the only means of transportation. Visitors can take a slow boat to visit the locals and learn all about the fishermen’s lifestyle, while witnessing flocks of red-backed sea eagles gathering in the mangrove forest nearby. Make a weekend of it by renting out one of the floating raft-houses for yourself and spending the night—contact 02-880-7388 for details.

Moo 78, Bangchan, Chanthaburi

Farm your own vegetables in Ratchaburi

Those looking to get their hands a little dirty while living life in the slow lane should head over to Rai Pluk Rak, an organic farm just one hour from Bangkok that conducts weekend agricultural workshops for participants to learn about the process of growing vegetables without the use of any chemicals.

Run by sustainability champion Anothai Gongvatana, you’ll get to plant your own pot plants to take home at this weekend getaway destination that also comes with an on-site vegetarian restaurant promising refreshing countryside views.

130 Moo 1, Petchkasem Road, Ratchaburi. 032389-521. www.fb.com/thaiorganicfood

Hop on a slow train to Hua Hin

One of the all-time-favorite beach destinations near Bangkok is more exciting than ever, thanks to new openings like SeenSpace Hua Hin, a beachside mall with chic shopping, dining and drinking options; Air Space, a stunning aviation-themed restaurant; and 1d+ Day Artist, a minimal cafe in a breezy garden setting. You can start your slowlife holiday by the beach with a laid-back four-hour train ride from Bangkok. The first-class compartments come with air conditioning, food and drink service and a comfortable space for two people.

Tickets can be bought 90 days in advance at main train stations including Bangkok’s central Hua Lamphong Station.

Hua Lamphong Train Station, 319 Rong Mueng Rd. MRT Hua Lamphong

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whereExploring OCTOBER 2016 | BANGKOK

VERTIGO TOO

LOWER SILOM Silom is the long street running from Lumphini Park practically all the way to the Chao Praya River.

The road’s first half, which is mostly within walking distance of the BTS Sala Daeng Skytrain station and the underground MRT Silom station, is one of the most diverse neighborhoods in Bangkok. Flanked

by Surawong Road and Sathorn Road, Silom encompasses gleaming office buildings, gritty street-food stalls, high-end European restaurants, two alleys packed with gay bars, three distinct red light districts, a night market, high-end boutiques carrying local brands and a host of spas.

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 18 LOWER SILOM

20 CHINA TOWN

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We provide inside & outside massage service 24 hour 7 Days/week

What a great way to end a hectic day of travel, work or sightseeing ❀ Foot Massage & Foot Scrub

999 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Traditional Thai Massage

999 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Oil/Aromatherapy Oil Massage

999 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ 4 Hands Massage

1,499 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Thai Massage & Body Scrub

1,499 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Aromatherapy Oil & Body Scrub

1,499 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ 4 Hands Massage & Body Scrub

1,999 THB/ 2 Hrs

Call us to schedule your appointment at

Address: 6/9 Soi Phom Sri 1, Sukhumvit 39 Klongton-Nua, Wattana Bangkok 10110

Mobile. 082-111-2213, Tel. 02-662-6623.

www.baanthaitouch.com. Nearest BTS: Phom Phong Station

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LOWER SILOM Y SPOTLIGHT

Shop-house Classics Silom is known for its time-honored, Thai-Chinese dining institutions. Don’t miss these top spots for authentic flavors.

YEN TA FO JC

@4 Yen Ta Fo JC Saladaeng A dash of shocking pink from the fermented bean curd, a bit of crunch from the pickled squid, a handful of chewy fish balls—this is a dish for the adventurous.

2 Saladaeng Soi 2, behind Central, Silom Complex. Open daily 8am-4pm. BTS Sala Daeng

@5 Tang Hong Pochana

NEW

BANGKOK SCREENING ROOM

Downtown Bangkok finally got the indie cinema it’s always needed last month when this charming, 50-seater screening room opened its doors. Equipped with a top-of-the-line 4K digital projector and Dolby Digital sound, the space shows films and documentaries both from the top names in local and foreign cinema. You won’t go hungry, either, thanks to a kitchen that rolls out comfort food classics and a bar well-stocked with craft beers. If you’re in town before Oct 9, be sure to catch Thai director Apichatpong Weerasethakul’s Canneswinning Uncle Boonmee Who Can Recall His Past Lives. @9 Saladaeng Soi 1, 094-125-9906. Open Tue-Thu 3:30pm-midnight, Fri 1pm-midnight, Sat-Sun 10.30am-midnight.

BTS Sala Daeng/MRT Lumphini

ACTIVITIES Get your daily dose of Thai shopping at 1 Jim Thompson (Surawong Rd., 02- 234-4900) boutique. With four

JIM THOMPSON

floors, it’s the biggest in town, with the usual range of shawls and ties but also an in-house tailor and even furniture.

Nearby, 2 Silom Complex (Silom Rd., 02-632- 1199) mall, right next to Sala Daeng BTS station. is home to a few local brands that may pique your interest. 2 Jaspal (G/F) is Thailand’s answer to Zara, but is a bit bolder and more exciting. 2 Viera (2/F) does very elegant and well-crafted leather

bags and shoes at reasonable prices.

Follow your shopping with a trip to nearby gallery 3 Whitespace (4/F, 1 Sala Daeng Soi 1/7-9, 02-235-2500), a platform for young emerging artists with more of an experimental, avant-garde leaning. Come nightfall, the 4 Soi Patpong market kicks into gear, selling fake watches, bootleg DVDs and cheap souvenirs. We don’t recommend it, but this is also where you can see Bangkok’s notorious pingpong-launching ladies. Be warned on your way out you may be presented with an unexpected bill.

a fancier note, head to 6 Colonnade (The Sukhothai, 13/3 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-8888) for a luxurious buffet of fine-dining treats in one of the city’s most beautiful hotels. For lunch,

BRUNCH/LUNCH

head to the nearby 7 Somtum Der (5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499) for somtam, a spicy Thai papaya salad, and other classic Northeastern dishes. Meanwhile, our top picks for coffee are 8 Ceresia Coffee Roasters (Tisco Tower, 48/2 Sathorn Rd.) and 9 Everyday by Karmakamet (361/1 Silom Soi 7, 02-237-1148), a retro cafe that also doubles as a fragrance shop.

The street leading off Silom known as Soi Thaniya is a little Japan Town.

By day, it looks like an endless row of ramen restaurants (we recommend 5 Ramentei [Soi Thaniya, 02-2348082]). By night, it becomes crowded with ladies in Singapore Airlines uniforms and sexy cocktail gowns. For those looking to kick start the day on

SOMTUM DER

Five-spice boiled goose, delicious pickled-lemon chicken soup and stir-fried vegetables with crispy pork, all served in three stories of Formica faux-marble.

2/2 Soi Convent, Silom Rd., 02-2356362. Open Mon-Sat 8am-6pm (or when the food runs out). BTS Sala Daeng

@6 Pad Thai Sala Daeng Whether made classic style or with mung beans, the pad Thai with fresh prawn is always flavorsome— acidic, sweet, salty-spicy and a little smoky from the wok. The vermicelli noodles are also done to perfection.

48 Sala Daeng Soi 2, behind Silom Complex, 084-899-5301. Open Mon-Fri 9am-2:30pm. BTS Sala Daeng

@7 Chuan Savoey Known for their thick gravy, Chuan Savoey dishes out delicious plates of barbecue pork over rice or noodles. The delicious balance of sweetness, nuttiness and a hint of licorice pulls in over 100 covers a day.

Silom Rd., left of Samai Suek Pochana, 02-235-1860. Open daily 8am-8pm.

BTS Sala Daeng

@8 Samai Seik Pochana This is considered some of the best Hainanese chicken rice (khao man gai) in Bangkok, thanks to the fresh and succulent capon meat, minimal seasoning and the not-too-sweet and perfectly spiced tao jiaw sauce.

209 Silom Rd., 02-631-2956. Open daily 8am-9pm. BTS Sala Daeng

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looking for anything fancy, check out the street-side !6 Mooping Convent for the best Thai-style barbecue pork skewers in town.

Dinner picks in the area include !0 Mizu (2/F, Charn Issara Tower, 942/43 Rama 4 Rd., 02-632-6660), which serves up omakaze sets of fresh sushi that are worth every baht.

Nearby is !1 La Scala (The Sukhothai Bangkok, 13/3 Sathorn Rd., 02-3448888), an elegant Italian restaurant in a stylish setting. More international cuisine can be found at !2 Park Society (29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000), which comes with a menu that eschews fine dining in favor of more casual, shareable bites 29 floors above Bangkok. If you remember to book ahead, !3 Eat Me (1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931) will provide a dinner of Pacific Rim and Mediterranean cuisine so special it claims a yearly spot in S. Pellegrino’s Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards. For local tastes, head to !4 Benjarong (Dusit Thani, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000), a Thai fine-dining restaurant which incorporates European slow-cooking methods, or !5 Ruen Urai (Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd.,02-266-8268/-72), which sits in a century-old house and serves local dishes that go heavy on spice and under-appreciated herbs. If you’re not

DRINKS

Though Banyan Tree hotel’s !7 Moon Bar (21/100 South Sathorn Rd., 02679-1200) is one of the most-famous rooftop bars in Bangkok, lesser-known

Gay Silom is that down below, !8 Vertigo Too (60/F, Banyan Tree, 100 Sathorn Rd.) is also one of the city’s top cocktail lounges. For even more exceptional cocktails, check out !9 Vesper (10/15 Convent Rd., 02-235-2777), where one of the bartenders was recently crowned Southeast Asia Bartender of the Year at the popular Diageo World Class awards. To check out Silom’s swinging gay scene, head over to @0 Silom Soi 2 (see box).

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The area is home to a few gay enclaves. If you want to catch a show, the notorious @1 Soi Twilight, off Surawong Road, puts on productions that mix on-stage sex acts and drag queen performances. Drinks are about B300 a pop no matter what you order, but at least there is no extortion going on when you get the bill. Shows take place at regular intervals between 7pm and midnight. For something a bit more chill, sip a Singha in @2 Silom Soi 4, home to venerable gay institutions like Telephone. Come midnight, saunter up the street to @0 Silom Soi 2. Note that you will need I.D. to get in and they don’t make exceptions unless you look like you’re pushing 40. Soi 2 is lined with bars, but you’ll need to go straight to the end of the alley for DJ Station, the queen mother of gay clubs in town. There, you’ll meet upcountry freelancers, shirtless gym bunnies from Singapore or Hong Kong, aging European sugar daddies and jet-lagged flight attendants. The ones with the most resilience (or the best dealers) end up at @3 G.O.D, in nearby Soi 2/1, which doesn’t really happen until DJ Station closes at 2am.

VERTIGO TOO

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STREET-FOOD STALLS

!4 Guay Tiew Kua Gai This gem, very well-known among locals, is hidden in a tiny alley and run by an old couple who have been serving one of the best guay tiew kua gai (fried noodles with chicken) for decades.

Yaowarat Soi 6. Open Wed-Mon 7pm-1am

!5 Pa Jin Cockle Soi Texas Located in the middle of Soi Texas, this place has specialized in boiled cockles and mussels for over 35 years.

80/20 Drawing on skills honed at Toronto’s Creme Brasserie, co-owner/chef Napol Jantraget creates food that’s 80-percent local, 20-percent creative tweaks in dishes like the flavorful garden salad (yu choy and chayote shoots, bougainvillea leaves and more with a cream-based dry shrimp lime dressing) or the 80/20 Caesar salad (sauteed brussel sprouts, melting pork belly confit and dressing salted by shrimp paste). Desserts by Saki Hoshino (try the warm molten chocolate with chili ice cream) and cocktails are no after-thought either.

Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd., 081-795-1839. Open daily Mon-Sat 6:30pm-1am, Sun 5pm-1am

!8 1052-1054 Charoenkrung Rd., 087-593-1936. Open Wed-Sun 5pm-midnight; Mon 5pm-midnight.

C

hinatown used to be all about eating at the most time-worn restaurants in Bangkok and walking through moody, crumbling streets where traditional Sino-Thai home life spills into public sight. That’s all still there, but so are a cluster of the coolest new cocktail bars and galleries in town, attracting to the area a young, local and arty crowd with craft brews and vibrant live sounds.

SEE & DO Although many generations have passed since Chinese immigrants first moved to the area, Taoist culture still remains strong in Chinatown, giving this part of town a rich and unique atmosphere. Using life-size models and audiovisual displays, the 1 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-623-3329) details the history of Chinese migration to Thailand, as well as how the area now known as Chinatown began. 2 Wat Traimit (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-225-9775) is not to be missed, home to the world’s biggest seated Golden Buddha, which also happens to be the largest gold statue in the world. Built in the 14th century, it remains very sacred and is a popular site

WAT TRAIMIT

for locals during religious holidays.

Nearby, you’ll find 3 Wat Mongkhon Kamalawat (Mangkorn Rd., 02-2223975), which combines Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian figures. A lot of devout Buddhist locals tend to practice here, so be sure to respect them as they perform their religious rituals.

For a more tourist-friendly experience,

head to the colorful old Chinese Buddhist shrines at 4 Li Thi Miew (494 Plapphlachai Rd., 02-221-6985), where you’ll be welcomed with your camera at the ready—so long as you wear appropriate clothing. The most picturesque shrine in the area has to be 5 Guan Yin Shrine (600 Yaowarat Rd., 02-237-2191), where a classically ornate Chinese building houses a 900-year-old statue of the Mahayana Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. Yaowarat is also known as a hub for gold trade.

6 Tang Toh Kang (Soi Vanit 1, 02224-2422) gold shop dates back to the early 1900s and the reign of King Rama VI. Today, the seven-story late colonial-style building is still owned by its founding family, and in 2002 underwent a major renovation. Although the shop still deals gold on a day-to-day basis, a section has also been converted into a museum for the public. Be sure to call ahead one day in advance as they don’t allow walk-in visitors for security reasons.

!6 Kuay Jub Nai Ek This place is known for its kuay jub, a hot dish composed of rolled noodles with crispy pork belly, blood and intestines served in peppery soup.

Yaowarat Rd., corner of soi 11. Open daily 7pm-late

!7 T&K Seafood and

R&L Seafood

Located opposite each other, these two restaurants are known for their fresh seafood dishes at reasonable prices.

Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd. Open daily 6pm-1am

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Until recently, Chinatown was never on the nightlife radar. But a recent wave of new bars have been converting old shop-houses, both in Chinatown and the surrounding area. !2 El Chiringuito (221 Soi Nana, 086,-340-4791) has a charming retro ambience courtesy of reclaimed wooden furniture, classic sewing tables, old posters and an adorable chalkboard menu. The owner lived in Spain for six years, and the kitchen rolls out dishes like tortilla de patatas (omelet), patatas Lua (fried potatoes) and bocabravas ng Rd. dillos (sandwiches).

Wash it down with a Spanish Xoriguer gin. Just round the corner you’ll find one of the coolest craft cocktail lounges in

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town, !2 Teens of Thailand (76 Soi Nana, 081-443-3784), where a collection of artsists, party organizers and photographers gather to sip on gin-heavy drinks. On the same street, !2 23 Bar and Gallery (92 Soi Nana, 086-264-4471) has a no-frills atmosphere, and a soundtrack that flits between ‘90s Britpop and reggae, while !2Tep Bar (69-71 Soi Nana, 098-467 -2944) dishes out heritage Thai food, drinks and music to a hip local crowd.

Or head up to the 25th floor of the !3 Grand China Hotel (215 Yaowarat Rd., 02-224-9977), where a revolving restaurant and bar offers 360-degree views of Chinatown and the river.

M

lip-smackingly good Punjabi recipes.

EAT Turn on your heels, because here Dining in Chinatown is all about they cook in true Indian grandmother old-school shop-house restaurants style—plenty of cream and ghee. And that have stood in the same spot for be sure to stock up on traditional Indi80 years or more. 7 Yim Yim (89 an sweets on your way out. The area’s Yaowaphanit Rd., 02-224-2203) is old-school tea and coffee houses are a venerable institution in Yaowarat’s also not to be missed. The 87-yearrich dining scene—which is to say it’s some of the best Chinese food you’ll get in Bangkok, despite the gloomy decor and small, dark space. The goat ham and cured fish are delicious. On a similar note, don’t be discouraged by the rats and cockroaches in the alleyway leading to 8 Jok’s Kitchen (23 Soi Isara Nuphap, 02-221-4075), a small, menu-less establishment known as one of the hottest seats in EIAH-SAE town. Chef Jok presents course after course of things like steamed bass in old !0 Eiah-Sae (1-103 Yaowarat soy sauce and fried rice with crabmeat Rd., 081-868-9891) serves coffee to a packed dining room every night. laced with condensed milk alongDining here is done traditional Chiside charming snacks like custard nese-style, so come with a big enough on toast, soft-boiled eggs and toast party to fill one of the large round tawith butter, jam or chocolate spread, bles. While Yaowarat is known for its all charged at rock-bottom prices.

Chinese food, the adjoining Pahurat !1 Double Dogs, (406 Yaowarat Rd., is home to a sizable Indian commu086-329-3075) meanwhile, specialnity, and 9 Royal India (392/1 ChakCharoen Krung Rd izes . in potent, properly brewed teas kaphet Rd., 02-221-6565) is simply from across the region. one of the best places in town for

. MRT (underground train) to Hua Lamphong station and head to Exit 1. Follow the road over a footbridge that crosses the canal and you’ll be at Reaching Chinatown is easy. Simply take the the doorway to the area. See page 32 for a general map of Bangkok.

!8

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ThewhereGuide OCTOBER 2016 | BANGKOK NEW

LITTLE BAO

This delicious Chinese bun institution comes all the way from Hong Kong in the form of a retro diner serving up chef May Chow’s playful fast food-inspired take on traditional Chinese fare. Set in one of the city’s most happening nightlife community malls, it dishes out serious bao burgers stuffed with fillings like pork belly, crispy Sichuan chicken, fish tempura and shiitake tempeh.

While you’re there, don’t miss the cocktails at next door’s Evil Man Blues.

G/F, 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02392-6922. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight

bun y from trendy ng up foodhinese s most munity s bao gs like hicken, mpeh. gkok's s of you're ails at

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 24 NIGHTLIFE 25 DINING

28 SHOP 29 HEALTH & WELLNESS

30 ATTRACTIONS 31 ART

32 NAVIGATE

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE BRONX LIQUID PARLOUR NEW

The owner of this newly opened bar is a Bangkok-based Japanese bartender, Hideyuki Saito, whose past credits include curating the drinks at London’s Soho House and fashionable Bangkok favorite Vogue Lounge. At his debut solo project, Hideyuki presides over a moody mixture of velvet curtains, vintage booze adverts and dark woods, where he pours spirit-forward drinks that each come with their own elaborate little snack on the side. Try the butter-washed sazerac, complete with homemade pear financier and buttered fig.

8 Thonglor Soi 25, 02-036-6071. Open Tues-Sun 7pm-late

Hot Spots

BEST SECRET BARS

3

HAVANA SOCIAL

1

HAVANA SOCIAL

Going for a ‘40s-50s Havana high-life vibe, this hidden bar specializing in rum is Cuban pastiche done right: shuttered windows, spare lighting and crumbling walls spruced up with colorful tiles, murals and live Afro-Cuban music. The entrance is tucked inside a small alley opposite Fraser Suites.

Find the telephone booth labeled “Telefono,” then call the place (on your modern-day smartphone) for the night’s unique entry code.

Sukhumvit Soi 11, 087-066-7711. Open daily 6pm-2am.

BTS Nana

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RABBIT HOLE

J. BOROSKI MIXOLOGY

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Q&A

Run by Joseph Boroski, creator of cocktail lists for sophisticated bars and many fivestar hotels, this is a hidden gem among Bangkok’s countless bars—and by hidden, we really mean it.

Turn left down a tiny dead-end street right before Thonglor Soi 7. It’s at the end on the right. Once inside, you’ll be served cocktails tailored to your requirements (there’s no menu) using ingredients you can’t find anywhere else in town.

Accolades for this narrow speakeasy-referencing cocktail hot-spot have put it at no.

26 in the 2016 Asia’s Best Bars awards. Praise goes both to its flawlessly cool setting—which mixes the look of a classic railway carriage with a Tokyo sushi counter-style bar where patrons sit as the barman’s spectators—and the drinks. We’re partial to the pinewood and citrus-heavy Rough Negron, made from homemade gin, and Comte De Monte Cristo.

Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-712-6025

235/13 Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-664-1445. Open Mon-Sat 7pm-2am. MRT Phetchaburi

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TRACK 17

Styled to look like a vintage wood-paneled railway carriage, the space plays up its 1920s Orient-Express vibe with a narrow corridor where you can quite imagine women in lace dresses and men in tuxedos boarding with their travel trunks.

An amazing mixing bar sits at the back, surrounded by trunks, frames, globes and maps to set the mood.

Enter the “carriage” and take your seat in one of the upright booths over by the windows to enjoy drinks like the 20th Century (gin, carpano bianco vermouth, creme de cacao and lemon juice).

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1/F, The Commons, 355 Thonglor Soi 17, 02-101-4525.

Open daily 5pm-1am

Smalls

Step inside the inconspicuous wooden door wedged between Ainu Japanese bar and Ramen Ajisai and you’ll find a charming, red-lit narrow bar staffed by two veterans of the Diaego World Class cocktail competition. Don’t miss their White Truffle Martini, which they make using truffle oil-infused Tanqueray Gin chilled to -18 degrees. Get there early if you want a seat at the bar on a Friday night.

This laidback, late-night bar is split over three rickety levels of an old corner townhouse where the owner’s prized collection of contemporary art matches with a hands-off approach to restoration. Book in advance if you want to nab a seat with a view on the rooftop terrace. Or head downstairs to knock back shots of absinthe (the house specialty) and mingle with a hard-drinking after-work crowd of expats and locals.

125 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 081-822-3392, 098969-1335. Open daily 7pm-2am TRACK 17

186/3 Suanphlu Soi 1, 095-585-1398. Open Wed-Sun 7pm-2am; Mon 7pm-2am

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FREEBIRD

The hottest ticket in town sits in a Dwell magazine-worthy house at the peaceful end of Sukhumvit Soi 47. The wood-dominated space features a grab-and-go coffee booth up front where you can get a cup of weeklyroasted coffee from Singaporean roasters Sarnies, while the kitchen dishes out Australian-inspired cuisine that’s a producedriven mix of Western and Asian cooking methods and ingredients—think organic sea urchin and sea grapes with whipped parmesan on a house-made flaxseed cracker; and slow-roasted ocean trout with wakame butter, caviar, pennyworth and mussel escabeche.

28 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-662-4936. Open daily 5:30pm-midnight. BTS Phrom Phong

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Hot Spots THAI FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS

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BLUE ELEPHANT

The flagship branch of the globallyknown Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts. Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authentic flavor. While more modern Thai restaurants have lately grabbed most column inches, Blue Elephant is still worth a visit for both atmosphere and food.

BAA GA DIN

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233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Surasak

BAA GA DIN

One of a vanguard of restaurants that seek to tweak tried-and-tested street food favorites, Baa Ga Din presents a modern twist to roadside specialties like chicken wings and oyster omelets. The brainchild of Thitid Tassanakajohn of acclaimed fine-dining eatery Le Du, Baa Ga Din also serves an inventive cocktail menu in a friendly, bistro atmosphere that lures large groups who want the casual experience of Thai street food without the exhaust fumes and teeny stools.

Ginza Sushi Ichi

26 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-3813. Open Wed-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Mon 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm

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BO.LAN

Featuring fine Thai cuisine made using traditional methods and the best ingredients, Bo.lan—an amalgam of chef-couple Bo and Dylan Jones’s names—has made a splash in the global dining world with its aromatic curries, beautifully plated salads and artfully conceived menu.

Adding to the allure is a striking dining room, set in an old house replete with tropical garden and close to hipster thoroughfare Soi Thonglor. Try the “Bo. lan balance,” a menu which changes along with the seasons.

Bangkok’s version of the acclaimed Ginza Sushi Ichi in Tokyo arrived in town promising an unmatched dedication to freshness. Each day the restaurant flies ingredients in from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo, even closing when Japanese holidays will delay the next shipment of fresh goods.

Sushi lovers, grab a seat and get your Instagram ready for fresh-from-market omakase, or order a la carte and marvel as the chefs prepare each course in front of you.

LG/F, Erawan Bangkok, 494 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-2500014. Open Tue-Sun noon-2:30pm; Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun 6-10pm. BTS Chit Lom

BLUE ELEPHANT

BO.LAN

24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-2961-2. Open Tue-Sun 6-10:30pm; Sat-Sun noon-2:30pm. BTS Thong Lo OCT OBER 2016 I W HER E THA ILA N D 25

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TASTE OF THE CITY

DINING HONG KONG Recent Openings

SUSHI MISAKI

This omakase-only restaurant sits in the heart of Sukhumvit.

G/F, Rain Hill, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-258-1783.

Open Tue-Sun 6-11:30pm. BTS Phrom Phong

SNP HEADQUARTER

Bangkok grandma’s favorite restaurant gets a hipster makeover.

G/F, Ital Thai, 2034 Petchaburi Rd., 02-7234442. Open daily 7am-9pm. www.fb.com/ SNPHQ

GEN

This grilled Japanese chicken specialist dishes out incredibly succulent skewers.

Acmen Complex, 267/31 Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai), 02-048-0008. Open Mon-Sat 5:30pm-midnight; Sun 5-10pm

Advertise your business with us ­ starting from B5,000

Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601 THE BAXTER BRENTON

A crumbling shop-house gets a contemporary Chinese makeover.

1852 Charoen Krung Rd., 02-212-5011. Open Mon-Sat 6:30am-8pm. www.facebook.com/ TheBaxterBrenton

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Credit card payment accepted.

26 W H E R E T H A I LAND I DECEMBER 2 0 1 1 I www.wheretraveler.com

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DINING LUXURY FINE DINING

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON

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NAHM

Still considered the “must-go” destination of every aspiring foodie in Bangkok, Nahm—helmed by Australian chef David Thompson—does Thai food made with the very finest ingredients using the most traditional methods. The most popular offerings at Nahm are the set menus, which usually feature dishes like blue swimmer crab curry with fermented rice noodles and the salad of fresh river prawns and Asian pennywort served in communal, Thai-style fashion.

Metropolitan by COMO, 27 Sathorn Rd., 02-6253388. Open daily 7-10:30pm; Mon-Fri noon-2pm

J’aime by Jean-Michel Lorain An offshoot of the Michelin-starred Cote Saint Jacques in Burgundy, J’aime (French for “I love”) is headed by Amerigo Sesti, who brings a contemporary feel and fondness for sharing plates to classical French cuisine. Dishes like Chef Lorain’s signature quail and foie gras tourte, caviar floating island and pan-seared scallops with pork ravioli get modern touches, and are served by an exemplary front-of-house staff led by chef Lorain’s daughter Marine.

U Sathorn Bangkok, 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli, Sathorn Rd., 02-119-4899. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm.

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SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

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SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

One of Bangkok’s favorite Thai restaurants has built its reputation on delicate traditional plates bursting with strong, authentic flavors. The casual decor plays with the vivid yellow of Supanniga flowers, while other references to Eastern Thai culture abound. Don’t miss the blended crabmeat and pork, seasoned with pepper and steamed inside crab shell (pu jah), beef chunk in red curry (panang nuea lai) and stewed pork with herbs and cha muang leaves (moo cha muang).

NAHM

28 Sathorn Soi 10, 02-635-0349. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon This genius concept from Joel Robuchon, the most lauded French chef in the world, takes the chain restaurant to its most elegant extreme, giving diners the feel of an upscale sushi bar while serving up impeccably-executed versions of French favorites. The Bangkok branch offers a red and black-accented dining space that allows guests the chance to see their food being made, and the menu is studded by L’Atelier standards like free-range quail stuffed with foie gras and potato puree.

5/F, Mahanakorn Cube, 96 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0698. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:3010:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

Le Normandie Possibly the most well-known fine dining restaurant in Bangkok underwent a minor revamp at the beginning of this year to ensure that it continues to set the standard for service and cuisine among eateries with Michelin-star pretensions in Thailand. Chef Arnaud Dunand Sauthier currently, who enjoys a formidable resume after stints with culinary giants Georges Blanc, Marc Veyrat and Emile Jung, helms the classically French menu.

The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., Charoenkrung Rd., 02-659-9000 #7390. Open Mon-Sat 7-10pm, noon-2pm

Water Library Chamchuri At the flagship restaurant of Water Library’s ever-expanding empire, German chef Mirco Keller dishes out contemporary fine dining in a venue more reminiscent of Vienna than a shopping mall on the outskirts of Chinatown. While there are beautiful a la carte choices like steamed Atlantic cod with parsley and onion and Bresse Pigeon in a barbecue sauce, the tasting menus are especially well-regarded, with diners able to choose between “classic” and “seasonal” options.

No corkage.

2/F, Chamchuri Square, Rama 4 Rd., 061-852-5411, 095-085-7777. MRT Sam Yan. Open daily 11:30am2pm, 6-10pm

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SHOPS+SERVICES NEW

ROSEMAN CLUB

You really can’t go wrong with any of the styles at Bangkok cool kids’ favorite eyewear brand. The designs may be Thai, but the workmanship and quality is very much Japanese—exactly the country where Roseman has all its frames made out of top-notch acetate. That also makes prices which skirt below B5,000 well worth the cash. Check out the Jarvis Mahogany for some nerdy tortoiseshell style, or the Darwin Cloud with clip-on sun lenses for a vintage traveler look.

In store you’ll also find a smattering of fashion accessories from other local labels.

68/2 Sukhumvit Soi 31. Open daily 11am-9pm

Hot Spots

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BEST MARKETS

CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET

CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET

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GREEN VINTAGE NIGHT MARKET

Just a stone’s throw from Chatuchak Weekend Market, this impressively funky space blends a low-key selection of fashionable clothing stalls and rows of industrial-slash-retro drinking parlors. Expect a down-to-earth crowd rummaging through keepsakes such as fashion items, antiques and home decor. For ‘80s and ‘90s kids, there are lots of old-school toys like Tamagotchi and Nintendo devices.

3 Kamphaeng Phet Rd., 092-461-5951. Open Thu-Sun 5pm-midnight. BTS Mo Chit/MRT Kamphaeng Phet

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WANG LANG MARKET

This daily market runs along the river on the lesser visited Thonburi side, next to Siriraj Hospital, and is filled with locals of all ages every day. Stalls sell everything from food to toys, but the majority of the buzz centers on secondhand clothes for men and women—all at incredibly low prices. Most visitors reach the market by boat from Sathorn Pier or Prachan Pier.

Siriraj Pier, Wang Lang Rd. Open daily 10am-6pm

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Chatuchak weekend market can be a daunting shopping experience. The sprawling web of 15,000 stalls is one of the world’s largest markets, spread over a 70-rai plot of land. You’ll find anything from food, furniture, books, plants, clothes and antiques to puppies and exotic pets. Section 3, just outside the Kamphaeng Phet MRT station, is the most design-forward part of the market, home to both established and up-and-coming Thai artists.

Next to Chatuchak Park, Kamphaeng Phet Rd. Open SatSun 9am-6pm. BTS Mo Chit/MRT Kamphaeng Phet

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PAK KLONG TALAD

At Bangkok’s largest flower market, flowers from around Thailand (and the world) arrive before being distributed to hotels, restaurants and small retailers. You’ll find everything from local jasmine to imported red roses. The market is open 24 hours with different atmospheres during day and night. The liveliest period is perhaps from midnight4am, when the day’s batch of fresh flowers start to arrive, and the authentic trading action is in place.

From Memorial Bridge to Khlong Lord, Chak Phet Rd. Open daily 6-6am

TARAD ROD FAI

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TALAD ROD FAI

This vintage market is home to small stalls selling all sorts of retro bric-a-brac, from antique toys and vinyl to secondhand clothes and cameras. There are also plenty of vintage-inspired bars and cafes. To reach it, take the BTS to Udomsuk and then take a taxi. Don’t be put off if all you see on arrival is plastic junk—the best finds are at the back of the market. There is a smaller but more acessible branch of the market right next to Thailand Cultural Centre MRT Station.

Sri Nakarin Soi 51, 081-827-5885. Open Thu-Sun 5pm-1am

RIVER CITY The third and fourth floors of this riverside mall are packed with boutique stores selling the very best in Thai and Southeast Asian art, antiques and artifacts.

Once you’re done shopping, you can also take advantage of the collection of bars and reataurants on the ground floor, which offer great river views out on the terrace.

23 Trok Rongnamkeang, Yotha Rd., 02-237-0077-78.

Open daily 10am-10pm

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HEALTH + WELLNESS

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HARNN HERITAGE SPA KRUNGTHEP NEW

A soothing world of minty hues, contemporary Thai furnishings and lengthy spa treatments awaits visitors to this new pampering palace. Unlike your usual dimly lit, secluded spa, this one has huge windows that brighten up the whole space as you wait to be let in for delicious treatments like the Ploenchit Therapy—a 60-minute journey of foot scrubs and back rubs using massage oils that smell so, so good. The masseurs here don’t just have soothing hands; they also know how to avoid small talk, helping you to relax whatever your state of undress.

12M/F, Zen Tower, CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 02252-5725. Open daily 10am-9pm. BTS Chit Lom

Hot Spots BEST SALONS

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HIVE HAIR & NAIL SALON

Set in one of the most luxurious malls in the city, this salon offers cutting edge hair styling, barbering and coloring services. Suitable for both men and women, the options include hairwash, cut, perm and hair dye services, and hair treatments for which you’ll get pro consultation about maintenance and products. The space also does nail treatments and foot massages­­—a one-stop destination for glamming up.

HUMMING HAIR SALON

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3/F, Central Embassy, 1030 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-119-7777.

Open daily 10am-9pm. BTS Phloen Chit

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THE SPA STUDIO

French celebrity pedicurist Bastien Gonzalez brings luxury to the hands and feet of Bangkok’s salon-goers at this nail salon tucked inside the beautiful old Mandarin Oriental. Opt for the full-on experience with a 75-minute treatment of perfected nail care or a quick 20-minute color touch-up. Aside from hands and feet, facials and body treatments are also available.

1/F, Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 02-659-9000. Open TK. BTS Saphan Taksin

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HUMMING HAIR SALON

With an emphasis on natural treatments, this is one of the few salons in Thailand trusted with international organic brand Aveda.

There’s complimentary hair checkups with every treatment allowing for a more customized service, free Wi-Fi, and even a little something for the kids, who can enjoy their cut and style in a specialized mini-car seat. Men and women are both welcome.

1/F, Eight Thonglor, Thonglor Soi 8, 02-381-1652

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GLITTERATI NAIL LOUNGE

Nail salons don’t come much more glamorous than here, where sessions extend beyond just nail care to include a variety of hand and foot spa treatments. Nail care options include manicures and pedicures, which can be combined with paraffin, nail strenghtening or nail repair options. A variety of nail design packages are also available— French tips, coloring, acrylic nail extensions or even 3D nail art. It’s a popular spot so book ahead through their website.

2/F, Mille Malle, 66/4 Sukhumvits Soi 20, 02-663-6033.

Open daily 10:30am-8pm.

VEDA SALON AND SPA

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VEDA SALON AND SPA

The new opening from American ecocredentialed spa brand Aveda spotlights hair treatments using 97-percent natural products.

On offer you’ll find coloring, scalp and damaged hair treatment, and thinning hair solutions. You can also enjoy a shampoo in the one and only dark shampoo room in Thailand, a super-relaxing experience that includes a head massage, warm towel and aroma oil shoulder massage.

M/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-0583. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS National Stadium

Rajadamnern Singha Muay Thai Academy (RSM) Making muay Thai (Thai kickboxing) trendy, this academy offers a wide range of courses designed for different age ranges, abilities and levels of dedication. The gym may look fancy, but the training is deadly serious, carried out by lead Muay Thai coaches from Rajadamnern Stadium. Along with regular classes, they also cater for private groups and wannabe pros.

3/F, Seenspace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2384.

Open daily 9am-9pm

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ATTRACTIONS NEW

GALERIE ADLER

With the renovation of Siam Discovery shopping mall comes a brand new contemporary art gallery. The space is designed to pay homage to the style of Dutch painter Piet Mondrian and his signature pattern of intertwining white and colored grids which spread across the floor and walls of the gallery. The art itself is displayed across a series of rooms connected by tunnels in a minimalistic style. In collaboration with its sister branch in Paris, the gallery’s mission is to exhibit paintings, sculptures and photography from both local and international artists. Currently on display are the caricatural oil paintings of Jarasporn Chumsri, the bronze terracotta sculptures of Liu Bolin, the acrylic works of Yin Kun and more.

M/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd., 02-106-8495.

Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam. www.facebook. com/GalerieAdlerBangkok

Hot Spots BEST VIP CINEMAS

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ENIGMA

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ENIGMA

Come here if you really want a taste of luxury and VIP treatment. Enigma’s candle-lit lounge has massage chairs as well as a full bar.

With your ticket (B4,000 per couple) you’re given a meal and a complimentary beverage (Jacob’s Creek wine, soda, or a mixed cocktail), served by a butler during your movie—what could be better than tucking into a plate of carbonara while watching a film?

The sofa-bed seating is fully adjustable so you can find the perfect position.

QUARTIER CINE-ART

The four cinema options at Quartier Cine-art offer different levels of comfort, but each HAS the same attention to visual and audio quality. SCB First Screen is Quartier’s luxury on a budget theater with prices starting at B200. For that you get a plush reclining chair and a blanket to keep you cozy—though you’re going to have to fight the urge to fall asleep. For the full luxury experience, pick the Aeon option (B1,800 per couple) and tuck yourself into a bed-like seat with food from Dean & Deluca.

4/F, EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-261-0199. BTS Phrom Phong

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MX4D

This state-of-the-art 4D experience (starting from B490) is nothing like any ordinary interactive theater you may have gone to before. The seats are lush and comfortable, so even when you’re jostled about you don’t feel sore afterwards. The difference between MX4D and others of its kind is that you can truly immerse yourself in the movie with the addition of scent to the 4D experience.

SF World Cinema, 7/F, CentralWorld, 999/9 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-264-5555. BTS Siam/Chit Lom

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5/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-129-4635. BTS Siam

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EMBASSY

The cocoon seating adjusts with the click of a button, while a personal server waits in the wings to bring you more popcorn. Arrive before your movie to relax in the lounge area enjoying books, Wi-Fi, sweet treats and savory bites. In the brand new sound-proof Heineken Room, knock back a few without missing a minute of the movie or annoying your fellow cinema goers. Prices start at B900 but check their website for regular promos.

6/F, Central Embassy, 1030 Phloen Chit Rd. 02-1605999. BTS Phloen Chit.

EMPRIVE

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EMPRIVE

There are three different classes of seat here, starting at a low B300. If you want to test how much you can eat, choose the First Class option (starting at B790) and get access to Emprive’s exclusive bar and lounge, which serves an assortment of hot and cold tapas. After you’ve finished eating and your movie has begun, get comfortable in the reclining chairs and enjoy the benefits of a theater with all the latest tech.

5/F, Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd., 08-268-8899. BTS Phrom Phong

Museum Siam Set in a colonial-inspired building with a state-ofthe-art light and sound system, this innovative, technology-driven museum showcasing the history of Siam is a far cry from dimly-lit corridors and dusty exhibits. You won’t find original artworks, antiques or artifacts on display here but rather an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels that breathe life into Thailand’s heritage. Their permanent exhibition, The Riang Kwan Pratade Thai (Essays from Thailand) is an interactive journey through 3,000 years of Thailand’s history spread over 17 rooms.

Phra Nang Klao Rd., 02-225-2777

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ART

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METAMORPHOSIS OF JAPAN AFTER THE WAR Curated by Tsuguo Tada and Marc Feustel, this photography exhibition presents images from post-war Japan between 1945 and 1964, as captured by 11 Japanese photographers. The series is categorized into three sections: Aftermath of War, Between Tradition and Modernity and Towards a New Japan.

Through Oct 14, Ratchadamnoen Contemporary Art Center, 84 Ratchadamnoen Khlang Rd.

Hot Spots TOP EXHIBITIONS THIS MONTH

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AS THEY GROW OLDER AND WISER

Y SPOTLIGHT

Artist Ang Song Nian presents a photographic series and installations observing the methods of control as evidenced in the ways potted plants and trees are being manipulated to fit into the urban landscape of Bangkok.

Through Oct 29, Bangkok University Gallery (BUG), 2-4/F, BU International College Building (Bld.7), 119 Rama 4 Rd.

CHASING THE LIGHT

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CHASING THE LIGHT

Pulitzer Prize-winning photographer David Longstreath presents his latest collection of black and white photos captured during the morning light while exploring the back roads of Southeast Asia.

AS THEY GROW OLDER AND WISE

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Oct 28-30, Cho Why, 17 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd. BTS Hua Lamphong

NINE EXPRESSIONS OF ASIA

A group photography exhibition showcasing the various styles and perspectives of nine local and international photographers on their journey across Asia.

Through Oct 15, Sathorn 11 Art Space, 404 Sathorn Soi 11 ALLERGIC REALITIES

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ALLERGIC REALITIES

Kosit Juntaratip's latest series of paintings questions the realities behind documentary photography, pondering the ability that artists have to create brand new narratives in history.

NINE EXPRESSIONS OF ASIA

Through Oct 29, Bangkok University Gallery (BUG), 2-4/F, BU International College Building (Bld.7), 119 Rama 4 Rd.

H Gallery Set in a beautiful late-19th century, wooden building, H Gallery's exhibitions represent emerging contemporary Asian artists and are curated by Brian Curtin, an expert in this field. One of Bangkok's more daring art spaces, it's not afraid to host provocative or controversial work.

201 Sathorn Soi 12, 085-021-5508. Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm; Mon 10am-6pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

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BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

3 Vimanmek Mansion

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumphini Park

MRT

5 Khao San Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

!5 Siam Paragon

River/Klong (canal)

7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

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8 Wat Pho

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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

32 W H E R E T H A I LAND I O CTO B ER 2 0 1 6

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Y

Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service.

Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price.

There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS­ Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines.

Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130.

The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40.

There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak.

Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS­ While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 OCT OBER 2016 I W HER E THA ILA N D 33

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Y

21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

1

5

8

!5

!0

@2

1 Browsing the quirky stalls filled with authentic retro items at Talad Rod Fai night market. See page 28.

7 Discovering Michelin-star-wor- !3 Exploring Bangkok’s Chinatown !8 Tucking into one of Chef Tim But-

2 Savoring the authentic royal Thai cuisine at Blue Elephant, a fine-dining institution set in a beautifully restored mansion. See page 25.

8 Trying on cutting-edge, locally

thy traditional Thai dishes at David Thompson’s Nahm. See page 25.

designed clothing at one of the city’s favorite luxury malls, EmQuartier. See page 28.

and learning about the history of the early Chinese immigrants to Bangkok, then sampling authentic dishes at various stalls in the vibrant neighborhood. See page 20.

ler’s bold creations at Eat Me, a globally lauded restaurant in the Sathorn area. See page 25.

!9 Sampling Isaan-style street food in a modern shop-house setting at Som-

!4 Getting a fun and interactive les- tum Der, whose sister branch in New son on Thai culture at Museum Siam.

York has a Michelin star. See page 25.

3 Stocking up on Thai handicraft 9 Leaning back on one of the spa- See page 30. souvenirs from all across the country at OTOP Heritage. See page 8.

cious lounge chairs with a warm tub of popcorn at Embassy Cineplex. See page 30.

4 Shopping for luxury silk products at Jim Thompson’s original store. See page 8.

5 Drinking in the cityscape view from the alfresco bar of Park Society on top of Sofitel So Hotel, overlooking Lumphini Park. See page 18.

6 Rummaging for everything from edgy fashion to teakwood furniture at the world’s largest weekend market, Chatuchak (JJ). See page 28.

!0 Enjoying a hearty meal at Supanniga Eating Room, a restaurant specializing in traditional Eastern and Northeastern Thai dishes. See page 27.

@1 Treating ourselves to a five-hour !5 Escaping down south to Koh long pampering treatment at W Samui, the beautiful tropical island in the gulf of Thailand known for its sunny weather even in rainy season.

See page 14.

Bangkok’s Away Spa, including full body scrub, wrap, massage, facial, and feet and hand treatments. See page 12.

!6 Enjoying the VIP cinema experi- @2 Slurping up some delicious ramen ence at Enigma at Paragon Cineplex,

noodles in an authentic Japanese

!1 Drinking boozy, premium cocktails where you can lie down under a duvet vibe at the long-standing institution until the early hours at underground cocktail specialist J Boroski Mixology.

See page 24.

and enjoy a glass of wine along with the movie. See page 30.

Ramen Tei. See page 19.

!7 Indulging in the 2.5-hour Heavenly !2 Admiring the fresh flowers at Pak Nantha Experience, which includes Klong Talad, the largest 24-hour flower market in Bangkok. See page 28.

a bath, body scrub and therapeutic massage at Dusit Thani Hotel’s Devarana Spa. See page 12.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

34 W H E R E T H AILAND I O CTO B ER 2 0 1 6

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Where to find Hotels in Bangkok Amara Bangkok AETAS Bangkok All season Bangkok Siam Aloft Bangkok Amari Watergate Hotel Bangkok Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa Arnoma Hotel Baan Noppawong Bally’s Studio Suites Banyan Tree Bangkok Hotel Best Western Sukhumvit Cabochon Hotel & Residence Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Centara Grand at Central World Hotel Bangkok Centara Hotel & Resorts Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok Conrad Bangkok Hotel Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Hotel Dusit Thani Bangkok Hotel Bangkok Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Emporium Suites Bangkok Four Points by Sheraton Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel & Spa (former Four Seasons) Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok Grand Mercure Park Avenue Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Hotel Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 Holiday Inn Silom Hotel Hotel Muse Hua Chang Heritage Hotel InterContinental Bangkok Hotel JW Marriott Bangkok Klapsons the River Residences Le Fenix Sukhumvit Lebua Hotel Bangkok Luxx Hotel Majestic Grande hotel Mandarin Oriental Hotel Mandarin Hotel Managed by Centre Point Mercure & ibis Bangkok Siam

WHERE DISTRIBUTION LIST_October_2016.indd 35

where Thailand

Marriott Sukhumvit 57

The Sukhothai Bangkok Hotel

Millennium Hilton Hotel

The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Hotel

Miracle Grand Convention Hotel

VIE Hotel

Montien Riverside Hotel

ViVa Garden

Novotel Bangkok Hotel

W Bangkok Hotel

Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit Sukhumvit

Hotels in other province

Novotel Bangkok Impact

Serviced Apartment Adelphi Forty-Nine Courtyard Marriott

Shopping Mall Central World

Oaks Bangkok Sathorn Thailand

Tamarind Village at Chiang Mai

Peninsular Plaza

Park Plaza Sukhumvit Bangkok

Shangri-La Chiang Mai

The Emporium Department Store

Pathumwan Princess Hotel

Sheraton Krabi

The River City Shopping Complex

Peninsula Bangkok Hotel

Dusit D2 Baraquda Pattaya Hotel

Phachara suites

Sheraton HuaHin Resort & Spa

Others

Plaza Athenee Bangkok A Royal Meridien

JW Marriott Khao Lak Resort & Spa

Devarana Spa

Pullman Bangkok King Power

Chandara Resort

Elemis Spa at St. Regis

Pullman Bangkok Hotel G

JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa

Yunomori Onsen & Spa

Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok

Renaissance Phuket Resort & Spa

Bangkok Baking Co. (JW Marriott)

Radisson suites bangkok Ramada Encore Bangkok

Anantara Rasananda Koh Phangan Villa Resort & Spa Blue Elephant Restaurant Mandarin Oriental At Paragon Renaissance Koh Samui Resort & Spa

Ramada Plaza Menam Riverside Bangkok

Dara Samui Beach Resort & Spa Villa

Pizza Romana Pala

Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Hotel

Intercontinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam Resort

La Grande Perle

Riva Surya Hotel

Le Meridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa

Kuppadeli

Royal Orchid Sheraton hotel towers

Santiburi Resort

Dean & DeLuca (Thailand) Co., Ltd

Samed Resorts

Conrad Koh Samui

Kalpapruek (Soi Pramuan)

Shangri-La Hotel

Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa

VIVA & AVIV

Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit Hotel

Centara Grand Beach Resort Villas Hua Hin

the kiwi bangkok sports pub & grill

Siam @ siam design hotel & spa

Lets Sea Hua Hin Al Fresco Resort�

The Australian Pub & BBQ

Siam Kempinski Hotel

Villa Maroc Resort

German Embassy( Press and Cultural

Sivatel Bangkok

Anantara Resort Hua Hin

Section)

Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit

Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort

TAT at Counter Imformation

Sofitel So

Hard Rock Hotel

Chao Phraya Express Boat

Springfield Group Resort, Golf & Spa

Holiday Inn Pattaya

Bangkok Art and culture Centre

St Regis

Siripanna Villa Resort & Spa Chiang Mai

Yodpiman River Walk

Swissotel Le Concorde Hotel

Centara Duangtawan Hotel Chiang Mai

Swissotel Nai Lert Park Hotel

Centara Khum Phaya Resort & Spa, Centara

The Berkeley Hotel

Boutique Collection

The Continent Hotel Bangkok

Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai

The Davis Bangkok Hotel

Hilton Phuket Arcadia Resort & Spa

The Landmark Bangkok

Ayara Hilltops Boutique Resort & Spa

The Lit Bangkok

Angsana Laguna Phuket

Y

Where reaches over 100,000 visitors each month. For sales enquiries, contact advertising@ asia-city.co.th or call 02-6249638.

The Metropolitan Hotel The Okura Prestige Bangkok The Siam Hotel

9/23/16 1:36 PM

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