Where® Thailand January 2017 by Where Thailand

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JANUARY 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

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SECRET CHINATOWN The hidden treasures of Yaowarat Road

Bangkok’s jazz scenes Hua Hin hot spots

LES CLEFS D’OR THAIL AND

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CONTENTS where

l THAILAND l JANUARY 2017

The Guide BANGKOK

24 NIGHTLIFE Head to the river and enjoy alfresco drinks at some of the chicest bars in town.

26 DINING

Experience Asia's most-progressive flavors with these regionally acclaimed culinary innovators.

DOWN IN CHINATOWN

28 SHOPS+SERVICES Bring home the hottest international fashion from Bangkok's best designer boutiques.

How to do Chinese New Year like a local on Bangkok's Yaowarat Road.

29 HEALTH+WELLNESS Indulge in the pinnacle of Thai wellness culture at these local luxe spas.

NIGHTLIFE 10 ALL THAT JAZZ

30 ATTRACTIONS

Discover the best bars in the city for live jazz and blues.

Where to take the whole family for a day of fun in the capital.

AROUND THAILAND

31 ART

14 COASTAL COOL

This month's must-visit exhibitions and galleries.

The hottest new openings in the beach town of Hua Hin.

32 NAVIGATE

EXPLORING

Essential tips on getting around.

18 THONGLOR & EKKAMAI Two of the hippest streets in Bangkok are paved with eclectic restaurants serving global flavors to a vibrant crowd.

ALSO INSIDE 4

20 OLD TOWN

Amid crumbling walls sit time-honored streetfood specialists, as well as a raft of cool bars and galleries.

Where Thailand is proud to be an associated publication of the Thailand Chapter of Les Clefs d'Or (the International Concierge Association).

Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon

Deputy Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grégoire Glachant

Designer Peeraya Sirathanisa

MVP | EXECUTIVE President Donna W. Kessler Vice President, Operations Angela E. Allen Chief Travel Editor Geoff Kohl General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Staff Writer Bonnie Sananvatananont

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Features Associate Monruedee Jansuttipan Marketing Executive Plaifon Chienvichai

HOT DATES

34 21 THINGS WE LOVE

Contributors Natcha Saguankiattichai, Earn Saenmuk, Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Tessa Domzalski Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Vice President, National Sales Rick Mollineaux Director of Partnerships & National Digital Sales Bridget Cody National Sales Coordinator David Gately

MVP | MANUFACTURING & TECHNOLOGY Director of Manufacturing Donald Horton

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@ Morris.Com

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, Room A, 100 North Sathorn Rd. Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

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Morris Comunications Chairman William S. Morris III President & Ceo William S. Morris IV Production Director of Production Kris Miller

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Senior Regional Editorial Director Margaret Martin Design Director Jane Frey

Photography Director Susan Strayer Creative Coordinator Beverly Mandelblatt E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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HOT DATES

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JAN 28

GONG XI FA CAI! With strong Chinese communities spread across Thailand, celebrations can be found all over the country to welcome Chinese New Year. In Bangkok, Yaowarat Road is the center of festivities, where you’ll find a sea of people dressed in red gathering to welcome the Year of the Rooster. For the full breakdown on where not to miss, flip to page 6.

JAN 14-15

JAN 20 - FEB 3

JAN 9-14

FEB 1-28

Grab yourself a Beerlao and start rifling through the selection of wellweathered clothes and specialty fashion finds at Made by Legacy flea market. Once a year, this magnet for Bangkok’s cool and fashionable crowd takes over a different location, this year the rooftop at Fortune Town shopping mall, next door to MBK shopping center, with row upon row of clothing, beer bars and food trucks.

Big changes have swept through Bangkok’s Chinatown recently, with much of the area’s historic architecture now under threat from development. To coincide with the Chinese New Year, Bye Bye Chinatown is a joint photo exhibition in one of the neighborhood’s traditional shophouses shedding light on the area’s history and communities.

This month, Bangkok’s oldest French restaurant, Le Normandie, welcomes the head chef from one of the Michelin guide’s longest-standing threestar restaurants, Eric Pras from Maison Lameloise. Le Normandie sits on the top floor of Bangkok’s luxurious Mandarin Oriental hotel, offering stunning river views along with oldschool silver service.

Cho Why, 17 Soi Nana. goo.gl/HMhAFN

Le Normandie, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave. goo.gl/4IIMqL

The Northern capital celebrates the end of Thailand’s cool season with the Chiang Mai Flower Festival, showcasing the beautiful array of flowers and decorative plants which come into full bloom at the beginning of the year. Suan Buak Hat Park will be transformed into an open-air exhibition center for floral tapestry, local orchids, floats and dancers in traditional costume.

VINTAGE FINDS

WHAT NEXT?

10/F, Fortune Town, 1 Ratchadapisek Rd. goo.gl/P0OHSx

IN FULL FRENCH CONNECTION BLOOM

Phra Sing, Chiang Mai. Call TAT or 1627. www.tourismthailand.org

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EXPLORING BANGKOK

DOWN IN CHINATOWN

Four reasons Yaowarat Road is one of the most amazing areas in Bangkok to explore. TANG JAI YOO

YIM YIM

With Chinese New Year falling on Jan 28 this year, there’s never been a better time to explore the atmospheric old streets of Bangkok’s Chinatown. Stretching the length of Yaowarat Road (a stone’s throw from Hua Lamphong Railway Station), this area is all about eating in time-worn restaurants, exploring 100-year-old temples and stopping off for the occasional drink en route.

1. THE OLD-SCHOOL, SHOP-HOUSE DINERS A majority of venerable eateries were started by immigrants from the Chinese mainland. You’ll find many such venues in “shop-houses,” the three- to four-story row-houses that allowed a family and its staff to live directly above their business. The dining room may be little more than tiled walls open to the street, folding tables and some plastic stools. But the secret recipes and techniques are nothing short of extraordinary. Here are some of our favorites.

TANG JAI YOO

TANG JAI YOO Now run by the third generation of the same family, this Teochew restaurant has stood for more than 75 years and is still going strong, always packed for both lunch and dinner. The most famous dishes include steamed blue crab with salted Chinese black olive, Chinese-style sashimi, suckling pig and egg noodles with braised goose feet. The place is not just popular with aunties and uncles, but also a younger crowd that knows where to go for original Chinese treats. 85-89 Soi Yaowapanich, Yaowarat Rd. (opposite Hua Seng Heng gold shop), 02-224-2167, 02-224-2172. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5-10pm (last order 9:30pm)

YIM YIM RESTAURANT Taking its name from a Thai phrase meaning “smile, smile,” Yim Yim (or Jim Jim) was the first Teochew restaurant in Yaowarat and has been open for nearly a century. It’s very near Tang Jai Yoo restaurant, situated on the second floor of the building at the corner of Yaowapanich and Padsai Road. Though the place looks old and you have to walk up a shabby staircase to the dining room, Yim Yim’s customers are not here for its ambience. The stars of the show are the

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roast whole pig with crispy skin, seasoned shrimp roll and oyster omelet.

into the same soi as Wat Kusolsamakarn temple.

89 Padsai Rd., Behind Hua Seng Hong gold shop. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm

Soi Wat Kusolsamankarn, Ratchawong Rd., 02-2216024. Open daily 11am-7pm

HUA SENG HONG

CHINATOWN SCALA

Though it now has 16 branches around Bangkok, the original is still going strong thanks to the same old faces behind the stoves. Set right on Yaowarat Road, this 40-year-old eating spot is famous for the consistency of its roast duck, fresh crab and king prawn dishes. There are some quality Thai dishes too, but really its specialty lies in traditional Chinese braised goose feet in a clay pot and roast duck. Also try the steamed crab with glass noodles and stir-fried crab with yellow curry powder. The seafood is always fresh, the crab wonderfully meaty and the dim sum well worth trying.

This restaurant opened in 1951 when a Chinese chef migrated to Thailand and found that no one outside of hotels was serving fish maw soup. After hawkering around the Yaowarat area, he moved into a shop-house whose neon sign has become a Chinatown icon. The highlight fish maw soup still remains on the menu, along with peking duck, suckling pig and seafood such as stir-fried crab curry. Choose between a private dining room or the bustling main hall with its lazy Susanequipped round tables. There are now two branches on Yaowarat Road just a few steps from each other.

371-373 Yaowarat Rd., 02-222-7053. Open daily 9am-1am. www.huasenghong.co.th

EIAH SAE

483-485 Yaowarat Rd., 02-623-0183-7, 02-6230808. Open daily 10:30-2am

PIANG KI POCHANA

EIAH SAE

If you want to get a real glimpse of nostalgic Yaowarat, head to the 87-year-old Chinese cafe Eiah Sae for its famous Thai-style tea and coffee. Every day you’ll find a local gathering of elderly Thai-Chinese regulars (mostly men) who come to chat and do business over coffee. It serves a wide range of Asian teas—lemon iced tea, traditional Thai black tea, Thai milk tea and hot tea—as well as other traditional drinks like nor kao (a mix of tea and coffee with the almond-flavored heng yim). The place is hidden in Padsai street not too far from the main Yaowarat Road and open for breakfast at 4am. 101-103 Yaowarat-Padsai Rd., 02-221-0549. Open daily 4am-8pm

PIANG KI POCHANA Finding Piangki Pochana will take your best navigation skills but the authentic Hakka Chinese food is well worth it. The highlight dishes include kao yok (braised pork belly with dried Chinese cabbage), radish meatball, soybean sheet stuffed pork chitterlings and steamed chicken marinated with Chinese liquor. Eating here is more like eating at a friends’ house, as the owner serves food in portion sizes to match the number at your table. Walk-ins are welcome at lunch time but it gets very busy in the evenings. To find it, head deep JANUARY 2017 I W HERE THA ILA N D 7

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EXPLORING BANGKOK LET THE BOY DIE This beer bar’s a little further away but well worth the five-minute cab ride nonetheless. Here, it’s all about Thai-made beers, which they serve exclusively on tap, such as X Beer Sean Suk IPA and Triple Pearl alongside the owner’s own brew Golden Coins. The crumbling walls, hanging plants and warm lighting gives this shop-house bar a charming and homey vibe, perfect for a casual night out for some local brews amid a mix of indie-pop and live threepiece jazz. 542/ Luang Rd., 096-695-6281, 082-675-9673. Open daily 6pm-midnight TEP BAR

WAT TRAIMITR WITTAYARAM

2. THE BUZZING BARS Only recently did the sleepy streets leading off Yaowarat Road awaken to nightlife. But a recent wave of new bars have been taking up residence in the neighborhood’s charismatic old shop-houses, their crumbling facades and heavily patina’d shutters lending a moody appeal which Bangkok’s swankier areas simply can’t replicate.

EL CHIRINGUITO This charmingly retro, tiny tapas bar was the first to bring a taste of nightlife to residential Soi Nana. The kitchen rolls out a small selection of Spanish staples, which you can wash down with Xoriguer gin. The space also hosts the occasional art exhibition. 221 Soi Nana, 086-340-4791. Open Thu-Sun 6pm-midnight

TEP BAR One of a handful of recent openings citywide looking to infuse traditional Thainess into its drinks and music, this restored shop-house has plenty of raw appeal.

SEAFOOD SOI TEXAS

A good line of home-infused ya dong (Thai herbal whiskey) is available by the shot or in refreshing cocktails mixed with Thai fruits, herbs and spices. The kitchen specializes in Thai tapas (as well as a few classics like pad Thai). Come nightfall musicians take the stage to play traditional music from the Central region. 69-71 Soi Nana, 098-467-2944. Open Tue-Thu 5pm-midnight and Fri-Sun 5pm-1am

TEENS OF THAILAND Hiding behind an ominous, heavy wooden door is a small, moody bar belonging to a who’s-who of Bangkok’s art and nightlife scene, from fashion photographers and party organizers to mixologists and musicians. The highlight is the vast collection of gin including the locally distilled Iron Balls. The decor is basic, mixing old shophouse charm with racy photos. The menu changes every day, so do check with the barman for that latest arrival. 76 Soi Nana, 081-443-3784. Open Tue-Sun 6pm12:30am

3. THE NOT-TO-MISS LATENIGHT STREET-FOOD If your mission in Bangkok is to eat as much different street food as possible, then you’ve come to the right area. Rest assured that pretty much any street stall you choose to pull up a stool at will be serving something delicious, but some have made bigger names for themselves than others.

JE JIN COCKLE SOI TEXAS This seafood snacks and beer stall has been in the middle of Soi Texas for over 35 years. Pa Jin sells soft-boiled cockles and mussels at B100 for portions that are good for two. The secret is the freshness of the shellfish, which come from a farm in Petchaburi province, and the three special sauces: the sour and spicy sauce is the most popular among locals, while some might find the ancient-style sweet and sour “mix sauce” with crushed peanuts easier to handle. There’s also a sweet sauce available for wimps. Singha, Heineken and Leo beers are available, too. Soi Phadungdao, Yaowarat Rd., 081-795-1839. Open daily Mon-Sat 6.30pm-1am, Sun 5pm-1am

SEAFOOD SOI TEXAS At the beginning of Soi Phadung Dao, locally known as Soi Texas, there are two popular seafood places facing each other across the street. T&K Seafood is on the right hand side when looking into the soi while R&L Seafood is the one on the left. We have tried both and their taste, freshness of seafood ingredients and prices are

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not much different. You can enjoy ample grilled prawns, crabs and scallops and end up paying less than B1,000 for two people. Our recommendations are the steamed sea bass in lime juice and spicy tom yum kung at T&K restaurant; and amberjack in pandanus leaf and spicy seafood tom yum soup at R&L. Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd. Open daily, 6pm-1am

GUAY JUB UAN POCHANA Asking for the way to “the cinema” will lead you to this guay jub (rice noodles with crispy pork and pork entrails soup) stall. Located just in front of the last old-style cinema in Yaowarat, Guay Jub Uan Pochana is easy to spot. You might have to queue up to get a seat and you might have to share a table with strangers ranging from university students to hisos but Nai Lek’s guay jub is worth the hassle. The highlights have to be the delicious crispy pork and the strong peppery kick of the soup. In front of Chinatown Rama, Yaowarat Rd., 02-2243450, 08-1611-6920. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-12:30am

KHANOM BUEANG NAI TAS This small stall probably wouldn’t grab your attention if it wasn’t for the long queue out front. Khanom Bueang Nai Tas is one of a few places that still sell old-style kanom bueang (Thai crepe)—the shell is made from a combination of mung bean flour and rice flour, the spread from whole egg. Your can opt for sweet (sweet egg yolk floss, white sesame and dried persimmon) or savory (cashew nut, seasoned minced shrimp and coriander) at B15 each. On the corner of Yaowarat Soi 11, Yaowarat Rd., 098389-9988, 098-689-9919. Open daily 7pm-1am

GAENG GAREE NAI YONG Not far from Khanom Bueang Nai Tas is this khao gaeng (rice with curry) stall with a few tables and big pots of curries, as well as other stir-fried food on display. For more than 70 years now, Gaeng Garee Nai Yong has been renowned for its creamy, well-spiced curry with rice, which starts at B40 with the option of beef or pork. Add a boiled egg and some gun chiang (Chinese pork sausage) for an extra B25. On the corner of Yaowarat Soi 11, Yaowarat Rd., 02221-9908. Open daily 3pm-2am

4. THE STUNNING TEMPLES AND CULTURAL LANDMARKS

CONCIERGE PICKS What are your favorite places for Chinese New Year?

Although many generations have passed since Chinese immigrants first moved to the area, Taoist culture still remains strong in Chinatown, giving this part of Bangkok a rich and unique atmosphere.

WAT TRAIMITR WITTAYARAM This temple isn’t just home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image but also houses the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre. Situated on the second floor it offers a deep insight into the neighborhood and a history of the early Chinese immigrants to Bangkok. There are six exhibition zones which trace the history of Chinese immigrants from the early Rattanakosin period and explore the community’s development. They also offer interactive guides of where to eat and what to do in the area and a souvenir shop selling Chinese lucky charms from B50 to B300. Free entry for Thais and B100 for foreigners.

Boonmee Tangwong, Royal Orchid Sheraton At the gate of Chinatown, at the start of Yaowarat Road, you’ll come to one of the highlight Chinese temples, Wat Trimitr, where they have the golden Buddha. After visiting there, you should walk around and just explore the area, because there are so many amazing Chinese restaurants, nothing fancy but with the wonderful taste of real Chinese cooking. One which I recommend is called Shangri-La, like the hotel, while another nearby is called Hua Seng Hong.

661 Charoenkrung Rd. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm

WAT MANGKON KAMALAWAT Built way back in the reign of King Rama V in 1871, this temple, whose name means dragon lotus, was the first and remains one of the most important Chinese temples in Bangkok, especially during Chinese New Year and the annual vegetarian festival. The temple complex actually contains Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian shrines representing the broad mix of religious heritage that can be found in Chinatown and the place is usually bustling with locals lighting incense and making offerings to their ancestors.

Kristsananan Aruxbhojchong, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok If you walk along Yaowarat Road you’ll come to a local market which is very interesting to see, called Sampeng Market. It’s a wholesale market with so much for sale! Then on the other side of the road you can walk to Wat Leng Noei Yi, a very interesting Chinese shrine where you’ll find a lot of people paying their respects. I go there every year.

Mangkorn Rd., 02-222-3975, open daily 6am-6pm

Panisa Ariyasakul, The Okura Prestige After you’ve finished exploring Chinatown, you should head to the nearby Soi Nana for a drink. Here you’ll find a place called Tep Bar where they have oldschool Thai live music and serve traditional Thai-style whiskey called ya-dong.

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ALL THAT JAZZ

Discover both sides of Bangkok’s jazz scene, from sultry lounges in luxury hotels to low-key Old Town bars primed for an impromptu jam session. By Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj SAXOPHONE

BAMBOO BAR

Since it opened in 1953, the Mandarin Oriental hotel’s Bamboo Bar has hosted some pretty special guests. Mick Jagger, Sean Connery, Christopher Lee, Audrey Hepburn and Dionne Warwick have all pulled up a rattan chair amid its stylish jungle motifs and seductively tropical decor to enjoy the smoky sounds of visiting jazz legends. Even Ray Charles is said to have jammed with the house band following his 1977 performance at the hotel’s ballroom. The hotel will proudly tell you that the seeds of jazz music in Bangkok were sewn right here over 60 years ago. But from luxurious beginnings, a thriving live jazz scene for all tastes and wallets has blossomed across the city, from the crumbling and cramped jazz dens of the Old Town to refined hotel lounges where the tinkling of baby grands is accompanied by the popping of Champagne corks. And jazz music is very close to Thailand’s heart. The recently deceased King Bhumibol Adulyadej was himself an accomplished saxophonist who penned many of his own com-

positions. Search Youtube for the clip of him playing a minute-long sax solo in 1988 with the Preservation Hall Jazz Band and you’ll see his talents weren’t just the stuff of legend.

JAZZ FOR VICTORY Given Thais’ total devotion to their late monarch, it’s not surprising that many of the country’s top musicians have also taken up his instrument of choice. Saxophone Pub and Restaurant, first established in 1987, is one of the kingpins on the local jazz scene, guided by the musical stylings of local jazz legend Sekpol “Koh Mr. Saxman” Unsamran. The 44-yearold star of five solo albums takes the stage at here every Monday from midnight onwards. Located just a couple of stops from BTS Siam and hidden behind the frantic bustle of Victory Monument’s street vendors, Saxophone is also one of the most welcoming jazz spots in town. Surrounded by red brick walls and with barely a window in sight, the band performs right in

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HUA SENG HONG

YEAR OF THE ROOSTER How to spend Chinese New Year in Bangkok like a local.

YAOWARAT ROAD

There is nowhere better in Bangkok to celebrate Chinese New Year (Jan 28) than Yaowarat Road, also known as Bangkok’s Chinatown. Here’s how to spend your day.

Join the Luck Club Start your Chinese New Year morning with blessings from the gods at Wat Mangkon Kamalawat, also known as the Dragon Temple (Mangkorn Road., open daily 6am-6pm). At Bangkok’s most important Chinese temple, you’ll find statues of nearly 60 Chinese gods. The most popular with Bangkokians is Tai Suay Eia or Cai Shen, the god of wealth or god of fortune. This year, it’s believed especially important for people born in the years of the rabbit, rat and horse to ward of bad fortune. You can buy worship sets from the temple at B100 each.

Give to the Underprivileged Next, take a stroll over to Plab Pla Chai Road to another shrine, Tai Hong Kong Shrine (Pubplachai Road., open daily 6am-6pm). This is where the Por Tek Tung Foundation began, a charity which takes donations to buy coffins for the poor. It may sound gloomy but it’s believed that doing so will reduce your misfortune and bring luck your way. Some people even go to the extreme of worshipping at nine shrines in one day, as the Thai word for nine, kao, is akin to the word kaona, meaning progress.

Eat for Good Fortune When it comes to lunch, eating on Chinese New Year is about more than just food. You have to

choose dishes made with ingredients that are filled with meaning. Noodles, for example, are meant to bring you long life. We recommend checking out old school Teochew restaurants like Tang Jai Yoo (85-89 Soi Yaowapanich, Yaowarat Road., opposite to Hua Seng Heng Gold shop, 02-224-2167, 02-224-2172. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5-10pm) and Yim Yim (or Jim Jim) Restaurant (89 Padsai Road, Behind Hua Seng Hong gold shop. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm). Both serve fine suckling pig and egg noodles with braised goose feet—lucky (and delicious) food criteria for this year. If you find both of them shut, Hua Seng Hong (371-373 Yaowarat Rd., 02-222-7053. Open daily 9am-1am) is a 40-year-old eating spot guaranteed to be open every day, just like The Canton House (530 Yaowarat Road, 092-249-8299. Open daily 11am-10pm), where they serve a mix of Thai and Chinese dishes.

Discover Chinatown’s Golden History In the afternoon, hide from the sun in the air-con comfort of temple-slash-museum Wat Traimitr Wittayaram (661 Charoenkrung Road. Open TueSun 8am-5pm. Free entry for Thais and B100 for foreigners). This sacred space isn’t just home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image but also houses the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre on the second floor. Make your way from the ground floor to the top to learn the full history of Yaowarat as well as the inspiring stories of Phra Phuttha Maha Suwana Patimakon, aka the Golden

TANG JAI YOO

Buddha, and the Chinese ancestors who helped found Thailand’s fortune.

Make Time for Sweets Now it’s time for afternoon treats. Cool yourself down with a delicious bowl of sweet, iced coconut milk and pandanus-flavored tapioca noodles at Lod Chong Singapore (680-682, Charoenkrung T-junction (Yaek Mhor Mee), Charoenkrung Road, 02-221-5794. Open daily 11am-10pm), or head to the 70-year-old grocery store Lor Yaowaraj (388 Yaowarat Rd., Bangkok, 02-622-4083, 02-6224034), where you’ll find super-refreshing kiintim ice-cream sticks in local flavors like mango and durian. If you’re more for afternoon tea, Double Dogs (406 Yaowarat Road, 086-329-3075. Open daily 1-10pm) focuses on traditional Japanese and Chinese specialties including a stellar tea menu.

Leave with Good Fortune End your day at the Gate of Chinatown, an ornate lintel atop lacquered columns right at the start of Yaowarat Road. It was built to celebrate the 60th anniversary of King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s accession to the throne in 2006. Its location and construction followed feng shui rules, so every one of its elements is imbued with meaning, from the lion couple statues said to bring prosperity, to the golden plates built to absorb power from the gods.

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NIGHTLIFE

BROWN SUGAR

SOULBAR

front of guests as they sip on draught beer poured into the bar’s signature saxophoneshaped ceramic tankards. Though Mr. Saxman only plays on Mondays, drop by any night of the week and you’re sure to find live sounds in one form or another. Around the corner, Skytrain Jazz Pub provides a rawer yet no-less friendly experience. A graffiti-plastered entranceway leads the way up five flights of stairs to the rooftop of an abandoned building where those in the know come to enjoy big bottles of Leo beer with amazing views over the rails of the BTS Skytrain. Though their musical lineup doesn’t confine itself strictly to jazz, the experience is one not to be missed.

GOLDEN OLDIES Those who really want to mix it with the city’s most-hardened jazz fiends need head west to Bangkok’s Old Town. Within walking distance of must-visit heritage sites like Wat Saket and Bavorn Niwet, Brown Sugar is the homefrom-home for many a Bangkok jazz musician. Originally located downtown, it moved to the Phra Sumen neighborhood several years ago, where its “new” digs in a crumbling old rowhouse surrounded by cafes and bookstores are a fitting environment for the low-down sounds

coming from the stage. The lineup of jazz musicians here is dominated by finalists from The Voice Thailand TV talent contest—acts like Tissue Paper, a five-piece blessed with some of the best lead female vocals in the city, and Attention Please, whose sound incorporates infectious funk-soul rhythms. “The band that we are most excited to have right now is Destination Unknown,” says Narachot Meesaiyaat, one of the managers at Brown Sugar. “They rearrange old pop music into jazz compositions. They play every Tuesday and Wednesday night with our favorite singers from The Voice Thailand.” The best nights to find pure jazz, he says, are Friday and Saturday, the later the better, but you’ll find live music of some form or another from Tue-Sun, 8:30pm till close. Also in the Old Town, just a stone’s throw from backpacker central Khao San Road, Adhere the 13th is an equally big lure for local musos. Here, though, the music veers more towards blues, with jam sessions taking precedence over any fixed lineup. Indoors can only seat about 20, so you might find yourself perched on the parapet outdoors, Singha beer in hand, listening to the loud and energetic music being belted out to a crowd of old-time expats and self-styled local blues-men.

SKYTRAIN JAZZ PUB

CHECK INN 99

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SUNDAY SERVICE

BROWN SUGAR

Another place which puts the focus on improvisation is Check Inn 99, a long-established Sunday afternoon favorite thanks to its legendary jam sessions. Fueled by a ready flow of wine, talented jazz musicians of all ages and nationalities who don’t normally play together gather with their instruments to freestyle it over brunch. For a more refined experience, head across the road to the luxurious Sheraton Grande hotel. With regular international guests of the highest caliber, The Living Room, the hotel’s signature bar, is one of the most serious jazz institutions in town. Comfy leather couches and an extensive list of red and white wine make for a majestic setting in which to enjoy their Sunday Jazzy Brunch, when the hotel serves up a smorgasbord of oysters, lobster and other premium produce along with some of the best jazz singers in town. “Jazziam are a must-see band,” says Robert Wittebrood, the hotel’s executive assistant manager. “Singer and bandleader Athalie de Koning has brought together the best of local talent to create a fantastic four-piece. They regularly play on Sundays. Swing and cool improvisation is guaranteed.” Wittebrood is himself a jazz fan, and has some advice for those seeking out the best live music bars. “You have to explore Bangkok’s side streets in areas such as Banglamphu or Chinatown,” he says. “Here you can discover atmospheric little bars where some very talented young musicians play.”

THEN AND NOW

THE LIVING ROOM

CHECK INN 99

The most popular of these in recent years is Soulbar. Located on the historic Charoenkrung Road, on the edge of Chinatown, Soulbar has energized the city’s live music scene by bringing the city’s best soul and funk bands to a new, younger crowd of fashionable hipsters and local creative types. “We are the only soul music-centric bar in Bangkok,” says the bar’s co-owner and manager, Romain Dupuy. “But we are open to other music genres of course: blues acts, jazz acts, pop acts and hip-hop acts, both local and international. But they need to have tons of soul.” In fact, Soulbar is only a 20-minute walk away from Bangkok’s jazz-music routes at The Bamboo Bar. The two could not be more different. While Soulbar provides industrial stools fashioned from old machinery, The Bamboo

Bar is outfitted with the same rattan chairs that welcomed all those famous names from years gone by. While a two-year-old renovation has given a more contemporary look to the rest of the premises, the smoky voices of its visiting singers remain effortlessly timeless.

ESSENTIALS Adhere the 13th 13 Samsen Rd., 089-769-4613. Open daily 6pm-midnight. www. fb.com/adhere13thbluesbar The Bamboo Bar 1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoenkrung Soi 40 (Oriental Ave.), 02-659-9000. Open Sun-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm2am. Free ferry from BTS Saphan Taksin. www.mandarinoriental. com/bangkok Brown Sugar 469 Phra Sumen Rd., 081-8057759. Open daily 5pm-1am. www. fb.com/brownsugarbangkok Check Inn 99 19 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (above Zaks), 081-735-7617. Open Mon-Fri 6pm-midnight; Sat 4pmmidnight; Sun 2:30pm-midnight. BTS Nana www.checkinn99.com The Living Room Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8353. Open daily 9am-midnight. MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asoke. www. sheratongrandesukhumvit.com Saxophone 3/8 Phaya Thai Rd., 02-2453592. Open daily 6pm-2am. BTS Victory Monument. www.saxophonepub.com Skytrain Jazz Pub 5/F, 6 Rangnam Rd., 02-6400303. Open daily 5pm-1am. BTS Victory Monument. Fb: Sky Train Jazz Club by Jo Soulbar 945 Charoenkrung Rd., 093-220-0441. Open Wed-Sat 6:30pm-midnight. www.fb.com/ livesoulbarbangkok

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where

AROUND THAILAND

COASTAL COOL

The top new spots to eat, drink and shop in Hua Hin

BIG FISH

EAT BIG FISH Hua Hin’s newest resort’s seaside restaurant focuses on charcoal grilling local seafood like whole black garoupa and slow-roasted meats like the 20-hour-cooked Australian wagyu short ribs. Also be sure to order the iced seafood tower, packed with oysters, prawns, mantis shrimps and green mussels, served with Thai-style green seafood sauce. You’ll find indoor and outdoor seating, both of which benefit from beach views. Hua Hin Marriott Resort & Spa, 107 Phetkasem Rd., 032-904-666. Open daily 11am-11pm. goo.gl/ lThM0N

BAAN DUM Spread around a giant black Thai pavilion right beside the beach, Baan Dum’s vast lawn comes complete with laidback seating overlooking the water and live jazz music. Dishes here relate to the color of the

house—black. That means squid-ink aplenty in creations like fried squid with squid eggs marinated in fish sauce (pla muek khai pad nam pla) and the seafood “Pizza Baan Dum.” They also serve fresh seafood as well. Hua Hin Soi 5, 089-919-9276. Open daily 11am-11pm. www.fb.com/Baandum

1D+ DAY ARTIST This minimal, tiny restaurant is the brainchild of a cool group of local designers who run the brand 100000d (san-d). Though they’ve brought their signature black-andwhite aesthetic to the space, the Thai food is mouth-wateringly traditional—think crispy Thai-style omelet with spicy prawn soup (khao khai khon tom yam goong) and spicy minced pork fritters (larb moo tod). Do try the smoothie made from Thailand’s herbal black jelly, chao guay.

1D+ DAY ARTIST

108/410 Hua Hin Soi 101, 032-908-355, 085-503333. Open daily 9am-8pm. www.100000d.com/1d+ BAAN DUM

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WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

AIR SPACE Recently shortlisted for the INSIDE World Festival of Interiors 2016, this aviationinspired eatery features a stunning interior dominated by a full-scale model of the world’s first ever aircraft, the 1903 Wright Flyer. The all-Thai menu is designed by one of Bangkok’s favorite chefs, Supanut “Ann” Kanarak (previously head of Four Season’s Spice Market). Highlights include pomelo salad on fried wild betel leaves (miang som o) and some serious coffee sourced from Northern Thailand. 12/399 Hua Dorn, 063-916-0999. Open daily 8am11pm. www.fb.com/airspacehuahin

PLAY HOBS Hobs is a hugely successful chain of Bangkok beer houses which serve European drafts and craft beer bottles. This latest beachside branch replicates the same formula—easy-going pub-style atmosphere, young local drinking crowd—and transports it to a contemporary beachside development. To go with your brew, grab a bowl of beer-marinated Chilean blue mussels or the house specialty: hot dogs.

SEENSPACE HUA HIN

Seenspace, Hua Hin Soi 35, 032-520-881. Open daily 11am-midnight. www.fb.com/HOBSThailand

SO SOFITEL BEACH CLUB Bangkok’s well-heeled and design savvy have always booked their beach jaunts at this flawlessly chic property first designed by local starchitect Duangrit Bunnag. As such, the new beach club (which comes as part of a recent rebrand to SO Sofitel) attracts an urbane crowd which knows how a good G&T should be served. Once every month they hold a big blow-out party— keep an eye on their Facebook for dates. SO Sofitel Hua Hin, 115 Moo 7, Cha-am, 032-709555. Open daily 11am-11pm. www.fb.com/SOSofitelHuaHin

SHOPPING SEENSPACE HUA HIN Ditch Hua Hin’s main tourist drag and head here to root out Thai-made designer finds. Across 7,200 sq meters of cool, interlock-

AIR SPACE

ing concrete blocks, open-air walkways and criss-crossed grass rooftops, you’ll find a host of little boutiques with a focus on fashion. Names like Greyhound Original, Seek35 and Seek Happening, Lalalove London and Sretsis are loved by Bangkok’s best-dressed. Hua Hin Soi 35, 092-350-0035. Open Mon-Thu 11am-10pm; Fri-Sun 10am-10pm. www.seenspace. com/huahin

DO REGENT BIKE PARK Thanks to a recent revamp of one of the town’s most luxurious five-star hotels, Hua Hin cyclists have been gifted with a brand new bike track they can use free of charge. Two muddy mountain-bike trails snake around the surrounding area of The Regent Cha-Am Beach Resort: one 3.5-kilometer track suited to everyone, and one more

SO SOFITEL BEACH CLUB

advanced track (4.5-kilometer) filled with tougher lumps and bumps. Regent Cha-Am Beach Resort, 849/21 Petchkasem Rd., 032-451-240-9. Open daily 8am-5pm. regent-chaam.com

HUA HIN BIKE LANE Here’s a little secret: though Hua Hin’s local highway department has yet to officially cut the ribbon, Hua Hin’s B157-million bike lane pilot project is already welcoming cyclists on its first five-kilometer stretch, which runs from the Khao Tao peninsula at the southern end of Hua Hin to the nearby town of Pranburi. Enquire with the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) to plan your visit. 02-250-5500 (TAT)

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whereExploring JANUARY 2017 | BANGKOK

SUKHUMVIT SOI 51-65 Nearly all the streets—or “soi,” in Thai—along Sukhumvit Road are known by their number. But Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) and Ekkamai (Sukhumvit Soi 63) have made names for themselves. These two parallel streets are quite simply the most buzzing in Bangkok, home to the best bars, clubs and restaurants. Here is our pick of the bunch.

THE COMMONS

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 18 THONGLOR & EKKAMAI

20 CHAROENKRUNG

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EXPLORING

THONGLOR & EKKAMAI Y HOT SPOTS

Big in Japan A massive Japanese community makes this one of Bangkok’s best locations for ramen, sushi and sake.

@1 Honmono Sushi The excellent sushi here is reasonably priced, plus the restaurant isn’t a bewildering experience for neophytes. Years after opening, it still packs in affluent Thais every night (reservations are a must) with its fresh fish from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo. 19 Thonglor Soi 23, 02-185-1447. Open Mon-Fri 5pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-2pm

NEW

BARISA

This casual new rooftop bar takes over the top floor of The Commons, a hip development of food kiosks and shops in one of Bangkok’s trendiest districts. Bean bags strewn across the lawn, string lights and a lengthy bar table all contribute to a friendly communal vibe. Tapas-portioned dishes with Middle-Eastern and South-American influences draw a young, cosmopolitan crowd, as do cocktails like the tequila old fashioned with smoked cinnamon and spiced Grenadine. Barisa, 3/F, The Commons, Thonglor Soi 17, 02-624-9696. Open Fri-Sun 6pm-midnight

THINGS TO DO

SHOPPING

There are only a few art spaces in this neighborhood, but they are among the more interesting in town. 1 Pridi Banomyong Institute (65/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 [Thonglor], 02-3813860-1), for example, is the theater of choice for some of Thailand’s youngest and most experimental dancers and actors. Check the B-Floor Theater Group’s Facebook page (www.fb.com/Bfloor. theatre.group) prior to visiting for upto-date information on shows. Further down the same street, 2 Ardel’s Third Place Gallery (137-137/1 Thonglor Soi 10, 02-714-7929) showcases work from both established and emerging local artists in a striking space, with its concrete floor, vast windows, whitewashed walls and exposed steel beams. After browsing the gallery, head to the next street over to visit 3 Health Land (96/1 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-392-2233), where you’ll get one of the best-priced massages in Bangkok. Clean, private treatment rooms and efficient staff account for its massive local popularity.

This is hipster central, and shopping around Ekkamai-Thonglor is all about vintage. 4 Machine Age Workshop (281/7 Ekkamai Soi 15, 02-381-8596) is an ambitious vintage fashion and furniture store set in a giant, open-plan warehouse. It specializes in repurposed odds and ends from America’s manufacturing age: army drafting tables, wood radios and leather luggage. They also do a good beef brisket sandwich, if you’re feeling peckish. Be warned, some of the items are pretty expensive, although that doesn’t mean bargains can’t be found. For a more guaranteed wallet-friendly bet, head up the street to leather-specialist

MACHINE AGE WORKSHOP

@2 Mikaku This spin-off from an 80-year-old restaurant in Kyoto is known for serving some of the most revered Japanese beef in the world. The family’s third-generation owner and chef mans the grill himself, selecting only A4-5 graded wagyu from Kobe and hand-slicing tenderloin and sirloin to the perfect thickness. 103/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), between soi 3 and 5. 02-712-9080. Open daily 5-10pm; Sat, Sun noon-2pm

UNFASHION

5 Unfashion (Ekkamai Soi 10, 094421-2411), where brogues, loafers, duck boots, belts and other accessories in various states of disrepair can be browsed while sipping a coffee from the adjoining cafe. Visit 6 Again & Again (Market Place, Thonglor Soi 4, 089-486-5359) for something a little more feminine. Unlike other raggedlooking vintage stores, this It-shop hooks its customers up with glittery dresses, shirts and a selection of highquality skirts and pants. Crate-diggers should drop by 7 Zud Rang Ma Records (7/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 088-8911314), one of the best record stores in town, stocking an eclectic collection of vintage Thai funk and global sounds.

@3 Teppen Tucked behind Major Sukhumvit cinema, this wooden-floored pub is a favorite among Japanese expats looking for a taste of home. The warm lighting and sincere staff create a friendly, authentic vibe. 14/2 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02-714-1412. Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Ekkamai

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EXPLORING

THONGLOR & EKKAMAI

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Well-to-do young executives rub shoulders with hotel guests at !6 Octave Rooftop Bar (45/F, Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000), which features 360-degree views around a circular bar. The craft-beer stronghold !7 Mikkeller (26 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-381-9891) attracts a more laidback crowd, and is set in in a charming mid-century house. Meanwhile, !8 Iron Fairies (404 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-8875) boasts a Dickensian factory theme, with crumbling brick walls and a scarttering of ancient industrial machinery. Not all the area’s nightlife is geared at the party crowd. For some of the city’s top craft cocktails, check out 9 Evil Man Blues (72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02392-7740), The Commons, !9 Rabbit Hole (125 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 081-8223392) and 8 Track 17 (Thonglor Soi 17). And whatever you do, don’t miss @5 WTF (see below) and @0 Studio Lam (02-661-6661), which both count as some of Bangkok’s most fun, laidback spots to spend a Fri-Sat night.

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!2 Supanniga Eating Room (160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7508), where the mix of Eastern Seaboard and Isaan food makes for arguably the best Thai restaurant in Bangkok, and !3 Phuket Town (160/8 Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402), with its classic Southern dishes. For the best Thai dessert around, don’t

miss the mango and sticky rice at !4 Maewaree (1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-392-4804)—ours and many others’ absolute favorite. Alternatively, ignore all the fancy bars and restaurants and head to !5 Sabaijai Kebtawan (65 Sukhumvit Soi 63), where a feast of Thai seafood can quickly turn into a Leo beer-fueled karaoke session with friendly locals.

38 Sukhumvit

SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

MAEWAREE

Sukhumvit 51

You are in Bangkokians’ food heartland, from street eats to high-end Thai to European fine dining. 8 The Commons (Thonglor Soi 17) is home to some of Bangkok’s best food names. Visitors can choose from any of the vendors before taking their seat in the communal courtyard. Some of our favorites include Roots (coffee), Peppina (pizza), Meat & Bones (barbecue) and Barrio Bonito (Mexican). The similarly styled, 9 72 Courtyard (72 Sukhumvit Soi 55) offers casual award-winning bao buns at Little Bao, New York-style Latin tapas at Toro and Mexican sharing plates at Touche Hombre. For a finer option, !0 Bo.lan (Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-2602962) takes a traditional approach to Thai food with the occasional contemporary tweak in the presentation. Opt for the Bo.lan Balance, a degustation menu that regularly changes to reflect seasonal products. More laidback and with dishes closer to street food, !1 Soul Food Mahanakorn (56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 085-9042691) serves a brief menu of perfectly executed Thai regional dishes. Don’t leave without trying its excellent, double-strength cocktails. Regional Thai cuisine specialists include

Tho ngl or S oi 2 5

DINING

Y SPOTLIGHT

@4 WTF

Tucked inside a narrow lane, this cool, intimate shop-house bar is favored by Bangkok’s local and expat hipsters. The ground floor features a small corner bar with retro touches like old movie posters, vintage bench seating and flowery tiles. Head there early to ensure a table if you’re too self-conscious to stand around outside (where most of the crowd congregates) and be sure to check out the upstairs gallery. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. BTS Thong Lo

1 Pridi Banomyong Institute 2 Ardel’s Third Place Gallery 3 Health Land 4 Machine Age Workshop 5 Unfashion 6 Again & Again 7 Zud Rang Ma Records 8 The Commons - Barisa 9 72 Courtyard - Evil Man Blues !0 Bo.lan !1 Soul Food Mahanakorn

!2 !3 !4 !5 !6 !7 !8 !9 @0 @1 @2 @3 @4

Supanniga Eating Room Phuket Town Maewaree Sabaijai Kebtawan Octave Mikkeller Iron Fairies Rabbit Hole Studio Lam Honmono Sushi Mikaku Teppen WTF

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EXPLORING

CHAROENKRUNG Y CHAROENKRUNG’S

TOP 5 STREET-FOOD STALLS

!8 Kao Kha Mu Charoen Sang Silom This famous (and crowded) spot serves Chinese-style stewed pork knuckle with rice. Come early before it sells out. 02-234-8036. Open daily 8:30am1:30pm

!9 Jok Prince Bangrak

NEW

One of the best congee (rice porridge) in Bangkok—a simple but powerful blend of velvety stewed rice, minced pork and poached egg.

80/20

Drawing on skills honed at Toronto’s Creme Brasserie, co-owner/chef Napol Jantraget creates food that’s 80-percent local, 20-percent creative tweaks in dishes like the complex lamb tartare in spicy Northeastern Thai dressing, which features an abundance of local herbs, and the tea-smoked duck breast with charred young pumpkin and pumpkin puree. Desserts by Saki Hoshino (try the warm molten chocolate with chili ice cream) and cocktails are no after-thought either.

089-795-2629. Open daily 6am12pm, 4pm-9pm

@0 1052-1054 Charoenkrung Rd., 087-593-1936. Open Wed-Sun 5pm-midnight; Mon 5pm-midnight @0 Prachak Pet Yang

Rumored to have existed for over a century, this place specializes in khao na pet (roasted duck with rice)

tretching along the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River, the 150-year-old Charoenkrung Road winds its way through some of the city’s major cultural hubs, from the heritage buildings of upper Silom to the delicious street-food institutions of Chinatown. Thanks to a recent revival of the neighborhoood’s old shop-houses, you’ll also discover a bevvy of cool new bars and art galleries hidden down back streets.

HERITAGE WALK The area between sois 34-44 is rich with architectural attractions. Among them is the 1 Old Customs House (Charoenkrung Soi 36), which dates back to 1880 and was once the trading gateway between Bangkok and the rest of the world. It’s now used as the fire

GENERAL POST OFFICE

brigade’s headquarters. The recently renovated 2 General Post Office building next to Charoenkrung Soi 34 is another unique part of Bangkok’s architectural heritage, and one of the few Art Deco buildings to be found in the city. Religious highlights include the Thai-Chinese 3 Wat Suan Phlu temple (Charoenkrung Soi 42/1), where you can go and pay respect to the Chinese deity Guanyin, and 4 Assumption Cathedral (Charoenkrung Soi 40), a Roman Catholic church dating back to the early 1900s that serves as the place of worship for the Catholic all-boys’ school Assumption College. There’s also a strong Muslim community based around the 5 Haroon

02-234-3755. Open daily 7am8:30pm

ASSUMPTION CATHEDAL

Mosque (Charoenkrung Soi 36). Once the city’s largest wooden mosque, it has since been reconstructed in concrete but remains in keeping with traditional Islamic design.

GALLERIES There are three worthwhile galleries in the 6 O.P. Garden compound (4, 6 Charoenkrung Soi 36, 02-266-0186). The oldest among them is Serindia Gallery (02-238-6410), founded in 2009 by publisher and art enthusias-

JAO LONG LUK CHIN PLA

@1 Jao Long Luk Chin Pla & Jae Lee Luk Chin Pla Located opposite each other, these two restaurants are renowned for their noodles and fish balls. Both are great. Jao Long Luk Chin Pla, 02-2347499. Open daily 6am-9pm Jae Lee Luk Chin Pla, 02-234-2791. Open daily 8am-9pm

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EXPLORING

CHAROENKRUNG made from reclaimed slabs of teak. Though purchasing a table will set you back a six-figure sum, it’s worth dropping by purely for the spectacle, as well as to peer into next door’s !3 Fifty-Five Antiques (02-267-2297), which has some of the most impressive ancient Burmese artefacts in the city. Thanks to the many luxury hotels that line the riverbank, this is one of the best areas in Bangkok for high-end dining. The city’s oldest and, by our reckoning, most atmospheric hotel, the !1 Mandarin Oriental, is home to Le Normandie, which for years set the standard for French fine dining in Bangkok. Its combination of old-school silver service and immaculately plated classic cuisine

SAMBAL

Palace at the !4 Shangri-La Hotel, (Charoenkrung Soi 44, 02-236-7777) where you’ll find a la carte dim sum as well as other Chinese favorites like Peking duck and whole suckling pig. For one of our favorite experiences, book a seat on the 9 Supanniga Cruise (02217-7608, www.suppanigacruise.com) for a river cruise dinner with style. Back on day land, 80/20 is a hipster appeasing blend of locally-sourced produce, craft cocktails and industrial decor.

Opened back in 1953 but given a stunning renovation not too long ago, the Mandarin Oriental’s !1 Bamboo Bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. To this day, it maintains a moody, lounge-lizard atmosphere made even better thanks to some of the city’s best cocktails (try the barrel-aged XO Sazerac). !6 Soulbar (945 Charoenkrung Rd., 083-092-2266) offers live music of a very different sort, in a casual shophouse kitted out with industrial furnishings. Located right by the Chao Phraya River, !7 Viva & Aviv (B/F, River City Shopping Complex, 23 Yotha Rd, 02639-6305) is an open-air cocktail bar with a subtle (and chic) pirate theme.

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1 Old Customs House 2 General Post Office 3 Wat Suan Phlu Temple 4 Assumption Cathedral 5 Haroon Mosque 6 O.P. Garden - Serindia Gallery - Modern Gallery - Artha Gallery 7 Speedy Grandma 8 Soy Sauce Factory 9 River City - Viva Aviv - Suppaniga Cruise !0 O.P. Place !1 Mandarin Oriental Hotel - Lotus Marie - Marie France Van Damme - Le Normandie - Bamboo Bar - Ciao Terrazzo !2 P. Tendercool !3 Fifty-Five Antiques !4 Shangri-La Hotel - Shang Palace - Volti !5 Soulbar !6 Kao Kha Mu Charoen Sang Silom !7 Jok Prince Bangrak !8 Prachak Pet Yang !9 Jao Long Luk Chin Pla & Jae Lee Luk Chin Pla @0 80/20 Sap

The area is well-known for antiques and gemstones, as well as shipping services to help bring your goods home. 9 River City (Charoenkrung Soi

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SHOPPING

34, 02-237-0077) is a one-stop shopping complex that offers Thai craft, antiques and artwork by local artists. For fine fashion and decorative objects, !0 O.P. Place (Charoenkrung Soi 38, 02-237-4062) is filled with tailor shops, jewelry specialists and Thai handicraft souvenirs from The Chitralada Projects. It’s also worth taking a look at the historic !1 Mandarin Oriental hotel (Charoenkrung Soi 38, 02659-9000), where there are several high-end jewelry and fashion brands including Lotus Arts de Vivre (02236-0400) and Hong Kong-based resort-wear specialist Marie France Van Damme (02-630-9400). Tucked away in a complex of WWII-era warehouses, you’ll find the by-appointment-only showroom of !2 P.Tendercool (02266-4344), which sells striking tables

NIGHTLIFE

LE NORMANDIE

ung Rd.

tic Shane Suvikapakornkul. The gallery focuses on Asian cultural artefacts, specifically from the Himalayan region. Next door, Modern Gallery (02-2386449) features work by revered Thai artists like Thawan Duchanee and Chalermchai Kositpipat along with the new generation like Lolay Thaweesak Sritongdee. Right opposite, French gallerist Pascal Billieres’ Artha Gallery (02-630-9489) aims to promote rising Southeast Asian artists from Thailand, Myanmar and Vietnam. If you’re looking for something more edgy, head down to Charoenkrung Soi 28. 7 Speedy Grandma (089-508-3859) is a big favorite of Bangkok’s alt-indie crowd thanks to its regular exhibitions, film screenings and parties. Nearby, 8 Soy Sauce Factory (061-835-6824) is run by the same group of people and focuses on photography exhibitions.

DINING

Charoen Kr

SPEEDY GRANDMA

is still hard to beat. At the same hotel, check out the riverside terrace Ciao Terrazzo for something more casual. For a refined Cantonese experience under dripping chandeliers, check out Shang

GETTING THERE

Getting to this part of Charoenkrung is easy. Simply take the BTS (Silom line) to Saphan Taksin station. From there you can either explore Charoenkrung by foot or take one of the free hotel boats that shuttle guests from Saphan Taksin pier.

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ThewhereGuide JANUARY 2017 | BANGKOK

RARB

Located on a trendy street in Bangkok’s Old Town, this bar is all about customized cocktails and Northeastern Thai food. The single-page handwritten menu lists roughly 10 items which highlight secondary cuts of meat, with dishes like larb (a minty minced-meat salad), deep-fried beef skirt and stewed pig cartilage with seasonal vegetables. Meanwhile, mixologist Karn Liangsrisuk rolls out a list of signature drinks together with his daily special written on a chalkboard pole. Don’t miss the Fake Wedding, a Tequila-based drink featuring pink grapefruit, passion fruit and salted caramel. 49 Phra Athit Rd., 081-406-3773. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight

bun y from trendy ng up foodhinese s most munity s bao gs like hicken, mpeh. gkok's s of you're ails at

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 24 NIGHTLIFE 26 DINING

28 SHOP 29 HEALTH & WELLNESS

30 ATTRACTIONS 31 ART

32 NAVIGATE

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE NEW

BREWSKI

The city’s newest beer bar offers 30thfloor views of Sukhumvit. Along with a free and easy party atmosphere, Brewski features an international selection of beers available in three glass sizes— 100ml for tasting, 250ml for half pint, and 470ml for full pint—with choices ranging from American craft beers to Belgian classics. There’s also a decent selection of ciders (try the Zeffer Crisp Green Apple Cider from New Zealand) and Thaistyle bar munchies like sai krok Isaan (pork sausages with fresh chilli, ginger and peanuts). 30/F, Radisson Blu Plaza, 486 Sukhumvit Soi 27, 02-302-3333.Open daily 5pm-1am. BTS Asok

Hot Spots

BEST RIVERSIDE BARS

ABOVE RIVA

Y SPOTLIGHT

Head up to the fourth-floor rooftop of this chic new boutique hotel and you’ll find an alfresco terrace where practically every table gets prime views of the river and Wat Arun. The thick drinks menu covers most moods, from whiskey and beer to cocktails, while food puts a Thai touch to Western classics, from light bites like deep-fried calamari served with salted egg yolk, to a take on osso bucco in massaman curry. 4/F, Riva Arun, 392/25-26 Maharaj Rd., 02-2211188. Open daily 7:30-11:30am, 6-11:30pm ABOVE RIVA

ATTITUDE

Bangkok’s latest rooftop restaurantslash-bar sits on the 26th floor of the new riverside Avani hotel. The big, well-stocked bar stands up front among outdoor tables, offering both classic and refreshing signature drinks like the Moulin Rouge (Absolut raspberry, passion fruit, touch of grenadine and topped with prosecco). On the food side, the menu offers a list of playful Asian-inspired tapas like smoked duck with nampla lacquer and tea gel and lamb shoulder in the form of a lollipop. The chefs in the open kitchen also make filling dishes like grilled ahi tuna and Aussie wagyu beef tomahawk steak. ATTITUDE

Avani Riverside, 257 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02431-9100. Open daily 5:30pm-1am

Maggie Choo’s This elegant bar evokes colonial outposts, the Pax Britannica of Queen Victoria, the decadence of opium or gambling dens, steamy exoticism (and steaming noodles on your way in), James Bond movies and gentlemen’s clubs. You can usually expect some kind of entertainment: a band, a DJ accompanied by a percussionist and beautiful ladies in cheongsam dresses lazing about. The cocktail menu is sweet, fruity and aromatic. Underground/F, Hotel Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 091-772-2144. Open Mon-Thu 7:30pm-2am; Sun 7:30pm-2am; Fri-Sat 7:30pm-3am. BTS Surasak

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE

SALA RATTANAKOSIN EATERY & BAR

It might be a boutique hotel, but half of this fourstory renovated shop-house is dedicated to dining in full view of the riverside’s star attraction, Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn). Pull up a seat on the outdoor terrace to feast on a menu that goes down two routes: one, elegantly plated Thai classics and regional specialties; the other, Western bistro food like crispy pork belly and tuna tartare. For us though, the highlight is its rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping a great selection of cocktails. BABBLE & RUM

Sala Rattanakosin Hotel, Maharaj Rd., 02-622-1388. Open daily 7-10:30am, 11am-4:30pm, 5:30-10pm

BABBLE & RUM

The main restaurant (ground floor) and bar (second floor) of this welcoming riverside hotel next to Phra Arthit Pier are decorated like a contemporary French cafe, finished in dark woods, mirrors and leather-clad couches. An outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area make it the perfect spot for a chilled night out. The menu features Thai and inter-comfort food and plenty of cocktails. Try the Jelly Riva (vodka, melon syrup, lime juice on top of jelly). 1/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Athit Rd., 02-633-5000. Open daily 6:30am-10:30pm

THE DECK

Book in advance to get one of the best spots at this in-demand restaurant right across the water from the Chao Phraya’s star attraction, Wat Arun. The menu of classic Thai dishes like beef massaman curry with roti and pad Thai is of a bankable standard, but you can also trust in their European grill dishes such as the New Zealand tenderloin or roasted rack of lamb. Spread over two alfresco stories, we recommend you request the top tier.

SALA RATTANAKOSIN

Arun Residence, 36-38 Soi Phatu Nokyung, Maharaj Rd., 02-221-9158/9. Open Mon-Thu 11am-10pm; FriSun 11am-11pm

AWARD WINNING COCKTAILS

Backstage Bar This Broadway-burlesque space on the lobby floor of a theater-themed hotel dishes out drinks courtesy of a Diageo World Class cocktail comp finalist. Amid Louis XIV-style velvet sofas and a liquor shelf surrounded by backstage mirrors, sip on things like Earthbeet, an earthy and woody drink with a beetroot-infused tequila base mixed with sweet vermouth, Campari, Cynar (artichoke liqueur) and mezcal, garnished with a slice of beetroot and torched liquorice. L/F, Playhaus Thonglor, 205/22-23 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02712-5747. Open daily 6pm-1am

Bamboo Bar The Mandarin Oriental’s bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. It’s also one of the coolest, thanks to a decadently atmospheric interior that manages to pull off leopard print and bamboo furniture with astonishingly tasteful flair. Singers take the mic at 9pm daily, accompanied by music from a baby grand and surrounded by framed portraits of jazz legends. Then there’s the head barman, who cut his teeth in the sacred cocktailmaking ground of London’s Artesian bar.

Vertigo Too Sixty levels above Sathorn Road, Hawaii-native Mitchel Kai Lum mans the bar at this new tapas restaurant and cocktail lounge, and has already put his stamp on the regional cocktail competition scene with The Haole—a Bacardi Legacywinning mix of white rum, white vermouth, lemon juice and pineapple syrup topped with ginger ale.

Vesper Upscale tapas bar or restaurant that happens to serve great cocktails? However you view Vesper, you can't leave without splashing out on some serious drinks as well as Mediterranean cuisine. The marble bar is helmed by an in-house team which includes this year’s Diageo World Class best Asian bartender winner.

60/F, Banyan Tree, 100 Sathorn Rd., 02-679-1200. Open daily 5pm-1am. MRT Lumphini

10/15 Convent Rd., 02-235-2777. Open Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm; MonSat 6pm-1am; Sun 6am-midnight. BTS Sala Daeng

1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoen Krung Soi 40 (Oriental Ave.), 02659-9000. Open Sun-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. BTS Saphan Taksin

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GUIDE

DINING LA CASA NOSTRA The renovated house on leafy Soi Goethe sits peacefully in grounds that include a cozy outdoor terrace where you can dine outdoors, lounge on a sofa or play a game of petanque. The chef, Nino Scognamillo, takes La Casa Nostra in a comforting direction with creations like grilled Sardinian pecorino cheese with eucalyptus honey and fresh figs, paprika-spiced roasted octopus on potato veloute, and plenty of pasta dishes. Owing to the partnership with one of Bangkok’s top niche wine importers, their wine menu is wonderful. Try the 2011 Chateau Gigault Cuvee Viva. 22 Sathorn Soi 1 Yaek 2 (Goethe), 02-287-2402. Open daily 11:30am-midnight. MRT Lumphini

Y SPOTLIGHT

Hot Spots

BEST MODERN ASIAN

LE DU

Once in a while, a Thai restaurant comes around that manages to fuse classic Thai food with modern Western techniques in a manner that doesn’t feel heavy-handed or forced. Such is the case with Le Du, headed by Chef Thitid Tassanakajorn, a Thai chef with a degree from the Culinary Institute of America and stints at 11 Madison Park and The Modern. The menu changes seasonally and the wine list is sourced solely from organic or boutique outfits.

GAGGAN

399/3 Silom Soi 7, 092-919-9969. Open Mon-Sat 6-10pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

GAGGAN

Chef Gaggan Anand’s name went around the world when his eponymous restaurant was named Asia’s 50 Best’s No. 1 restaurant in 2015, a feat a followed up this year. Each night, in a classically restored house on Langsuan Road, the chef’s team offers a tasting menu where diners’ expectations of Indian food are first thrown overboard and then blown out of the water by Gaggan’s El Bulli-influenced creativity.

68/1 Lang Suan Rd., 02-652-1700. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-11am. BTS Ratchadamri LE DU

Blue Elephant The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts. Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authentic flavor. While more modern Thai restaurants have lately grabbed most column inches, Blue Elephant is still worth a visit for both atmosphere and food.

OSHA

The very definition of “OTT,” Osha hosts a menu of reimagined Thai dishes in a dining room crowned with a gold-leaf-coated stairwell and elaborate wallpaper depicting scenes from Thai mythology. Dishes like the Ocean & Flora salad highlight the menu’s two strong suits: premium produce and botanical flavors. Elsewhere, weary staples like green curry are dressed up with spherified pearls of coconut milk. 99 Wireless Rd., 02-256-6555. Open daily 11am-2:30pm; FriSat 6pm-midnight; Sun-Thu 6-11pm

OSHA

233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Surasak

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GUIDE

DINING STREET FOOD CLASSICS

SRA BUA BY KIIN KIIN

This molecular gastronomy restaurant specializing solely in Thai food offers a complete dining experience in a fairy-tale decor of delicate Thai pavilions. The sister of Copenhagen’s Kiin Kiin (which has held a Michelin star since 2008), Sra Bua reconceptualizes dishes like red curry, transforming it into an ice cream, while dotting its tom yam soup with gelatinous pearls of lobster essence.

Thai. Lobby/F, Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. Open daily noon-3pm, 6-11:30pm. BTS Siam SRA BUA BY KIIN KIIN

PAD THAI

Khao Soi

The surroundings as well as the food lures the rich and beautiful to Zuma. Bamboo, granite and glass dominate the dining area with its vast open kitchen, making this a great place to enjoy dishes like black cod marinated in saikyo miso or sliced sea bass with yuzu truffle oil. But the big, expansive bar also makes Zuma an exemplary watering hole, es-pecially if you opt for one of the restaurant’s signature cocktails.

This Northern-style noodle dish consists of egg noodles and chicken curry soup topped with crunchy noodles for texture. The dish is served with condiments on the side, including pickled greens and chili paste. Not in the mood for chicken? Some places will also let you substitute the chicken curry with beef. Try it at: Hom Duan, 70/2 Ekkamai Soi 2

Pad Thai This rice-noodle dish is stir fried at high heat with tofu, fish sauce, eggs, dried shrimp, garlic, palm sugar, sprouts and tamarind paste, along with either fresh chicken, shrimp or crabs, creating a blend of delicious flavors. Although the dish is great in itself, there are fancier options available, such as the pad Thai hor khai, where the pad Thai is wrapped in a thin egg crepe.

ZUMA

Japanese. G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02252-4707. Open daily 11:30am-3pm; Sun-Thu 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 6-11:30pm. BTS Ratchadamri

Try it at: Pad Thai Thip Samai, 313 Mahachai Rd.

Tom Yum The nation’s favorite spicy soup distinguishes itself with bold, sour and spicy flavors. It’s made with an array of Thai herbs such as lemongrass, kaffir lime and galangal, and usually served with shrimp (although fish, mixed seafood and mushroom are also popular). Enjoy it with some rice on the side to balance out the spice. Try it at: Niyom Pochana, 125 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor)

Somtam Hailing from the Northeast of Thailand (also known as Isaan), this sweet, sour and spicy Thai salad is made from unripe papaya pounded with fish sauce, palm sugar, dried shrimps, nuts, lime and chili. Eat it with kor moo yang (grilled pork neck served with a spicy dipping sauce), gai yang (grilled chicken) and a handrolled ball of sticky rice. Try it at: Sabai Jai Kai Yang, 65 Ekkamai Soi 1

Khao Man Gai Don’t let the simple appearance fool you. This dish of lean white chicken meat on top of rice packs serious flavor. The rice gets cooked in chicken broth, fresh garlic, ginger roots, salt and grounded white pepper, while the dipping sauce of yellow soybean, garlic and chili adds a potent kick. Many khao man gai stores also serve khao man gai tod, where the same chicken is breaded and fried. Try it at: Khao Man Ghai Pratunam, 962 Petchaburi Rd.

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GUIDE

SHOPS+SERVICES NEW

DISAYA

Shimmering copper rails, smoky shagplie carpets and rainbow-tinted glass greet shoppers at this luxurious new boutique from one of Bangkok’s top designer labels. Disaya’s feminine yet rebellious designs have caught the eye of celebrities including Jennifer Lopez, Kelly Osbourne, Amy Winehouse and Agyness Deyn. In store you’ll find the latest Disaya ready-to-wear collections as well as a curated selection of items by other international brands that match with the Disaya lifestyle (think Gentle Monster sunglasses and Chiara Ferragni heels). 2/F, Groove at CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-646-1828. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam/ Chit Lom

Hot Spots

MULTI-LABEL FASHION BOUTIQUES

NEXT TO NORMAL

This multi-label store features fashion and lifestyle products from a long list of global fashion brands such as Ashbury, Thom Browne, Maison Kitsune, Undercover, and Clover Canyon. By mix and matching products from the diverse pool of labels found in its sleek and modern store, Next to Normal encourages its customers to get a bit more adventurous with their looks and get with the latest catwalk trends. 1/F, CentralWorld, 74/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-646-1847. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Chit Lom

GIN & MILK

STATEMENT

Cult labels and the very best local brands take center-stage in this ultra-chic boutique. Its specialty is women’s clothing—from sporty looks and monochrome workwear to glamorous party styles—but guys will find some cool accessories too. Local labels to look out for include Pin & Tux, Ensemble, Anaman and Coralist swimwear. The store is also home to a health-conscious cafe serving coffee, cold-pressed juice and a variety of fruit and granola bowls. Thonglor Soi 11, 02-003-6973. Open Sun-Thu 11am10pm; Fri-Sat 11am-midnight

Y SPOTLIGHT

Offering a selection of menswear from brands like Meticulous, Pattara and Pattric Boyle in a lavish, European-styled store, Gin and Milk is for the dapper man wanting to look his smartest. Specializing in dressy and vintage fashion, the store even has a tailor corner for anyone looking for custom-made suits without braving the shops along Sukhumvit Road. 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000 (1376). Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam

AMERICAN RAG CIE

Stocked from top to bottom with a staggering number of men’s, women’s, shoes, and denim brands, this is the first branch of the American multi-brand store to open in Southeast Asia. Head straight to the shop’s World Denim Bar area, which offers quality denim products from wellknown brands such as Paige, BLK DNM, and J Brand.

1/F, Groove, CentralWorld, 999/9 Rama 1 Rd. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Sala Daeng

STATEMENT

SIWILAI

ANOTHER STORY

Taking its name from the Thai word for “civilized,” this 826-sq-meter retail space features non-mainstream designer goods headlined by collaborations between Siwilai and of-the-moment brands like Kitsune, Globe-Trotter and Orlebar Brown. As well as fashion, the store also houses vintage records, books, magazines and other curiosities. It’s located on the fifth floor of Central Embassy shopping mall.

This concept store gathers designer product from all over the world with a heavy focus on stationery and home decor. Along with international tech, fashion and design brands, there are also plenty of Thai names (Gray Ray, Labrador and Midori) as well as cute home decor pieces (look out for Plural Design, PDM Brand, Karv Design and Alltag). The huge space also has a deli with some to-die-for food.

5/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605809-12. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

4/F, The Emquartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6138/9. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

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HEALTH + WELLNESS

LET’S RELAX ONSEN AND SPA THONGLOR NEW

This picture of blond-wood serenity takes its cues from Japanese onsen culture. There are five baths in total, separated into men’s and women’s zones (both fully nude), all offering various health benefits. Soak in water brought over from Japan’s renowned Gero hot springs (42 degrees Celsius), then take a tub in the milky-textured silk bath (40 degrees), soda bath (38 degrees) or standup whirlpool bath (36 degrees), before cooling off in the cold bath (a bracing 18 degrees). 5/F, Grande Centre Point Hotel, 300 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-042-8045-6. Open daily 10ammidnight

Hot Spots BEST THAI SPAS

HEALTH LAND

Set in a grand, Thai-style building in front of Ekkamai Soi 10, this is considered one of the best spas in Bangkok thanks to its clean facilities, well-trained staff and wallet-friendly prices. A two-hour traditional Thai massage is also at a reasonable price, accounting for its local popularity. Unlike most street-side massage shops, its Thai massages are done in private rooms. They also have another branch at Sathorn Soi 10.

OASIS SPA

96/1, Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-392-2233. Open daily 9:30ammidnight

OASIS SPA

WAT PHO

Located next to the Grand Palace , this is one of the oldest temples in Bangkok, home to the 43-meter-long reclining Buddha and credited as the birthplace of Thai massage. The temple massage school still runs today, meaning visitors can get some of the most authentic massage anywhere in the city. They also run short courses for anyone who’d like to learn for themselves. Sanam Chai Rd., 02-255-4771. Open daily 8am-6:30pm

Y SPOTLIGHT

Gain entry into one of the upscale Phrom Phong neighborhood’s beautiful residential homes by checking into this luxurious spa. Your full day of pampering starts with a Thai-style footcleansing ritual in the main house before your masseuse leads you across the manicured garden to one of the treatment suites. Choose from massage techniques spanning the hot herbal compresses of Thailand to the long, soothing strokes of Sweden. 64 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-262-2122. Open daily 10am10pm

HARNN HERITAGE SPA KRUNGTHEP

A soothing world of minty hues, contemporary Thai furnishings and lengthy spa treatments awaits visitors to this new pampering palace. Unlike your usual dimly lit, secluded spa, this one has huge windows that brighten up the whole space as you wait to be let in for delicious treatments like the Ploenchit Therapy—a 60-minute journey of foot scrubs and back rubs using massage oils that smell so, so good. The masseurs here don’t just have soothing hands; they also know how to avoid small talk, helping you to relax whatever your state of undress.

SPA BOTANICA

Teak floors and Jim Thompson silks give this spa villa surrounded by lush gardens a luxurious yet homey feel. Inside you’ll find several rooms, equipped with steam facilities, jacuzzis and private balconies with views of the garden. Check in for a simple aromatherapy facial, or indulge in all-day wellness packages like the “Jasmine Puring Ritual,” a decadent combination of scrubs, oil massages and facials. Guys, you’ll find a special menu just for you, too. The Sukhothai, 13/3 Sathorn Rd., 02-2344-8900. Open daily 9am-10pm. MRT Lumphini

Training Ground Located in a 1,200-sq-meter warehouse, this training facility is dubbed the biggest Crossfit gym in Asia. It boasts strong coaching staff and world-class equipment that caters to members and visitors of all levels, such as Olympic-lifting platforms, pullup bars, bumper plates and Concept-2 rowers. Apart from the fitness facilities, the gym also houses a cafe serving fresh coffee and protein shakes, clean showers and lounge areas. 36/2 Sukhumvit Soi 69, 094-479-6988. Open Mon-Fri 7am-9pm; Sat-Sun 9am-3pm. BTS Phra Khanong

12M/F, Zen Tower, CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 02-2525725. Open daily 10am-9pm. BTS Chit Lom JANUARY 2017 I W HER E THA ILA N D 29

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ATTRACTIONS MUAY THAI LIVE: THE LEGEND LIVES This fast-paced live Thai boxing show was created and directed by Ekachai Uekrongtham, the artistic director of Action Theatre in Singapore and director of films like Beautiful Boxer and Pleasure Factory. The stage show features more than just Thai kickboxing, throwing in plenty of swashbuckling action and a sprinkling of romance, all performed by former Muay Thai champs and national boxers. Tickets are B1,200-1,500. Warehouse 4, Asiatique the Riverfront, 2194 Charoen Krung Rd. Open Tue-Sun 8-9:30pm

Hot Spots FAMILY DAYS OUT

BOUNCE

LAZGAM LASER GAMES

This edutainment spot is home to Bangkok’s biggest live snake collection with over 70 species including an anoconda and albino python. The 400-seat Naka Theater (taking its name from the sanskrit word for serpent) puts on live snake-handling demonstrations with cobras as well as a stage show of classical Thai dance. The snake museum, meanwhile, offers interactive and audiovisual learning exhibits on snakes.

5/F, Holiday Inn, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-663-7703. BTS Phrom Phong

969 Luang Phang Rd., 02-326-5800. Open daily 9am5:30pm

Australian-born trampoline park Bounce has taken over the top floor of the luxury EmQuartier shopping mall for kids and big kids alike to work off some energy while having fun. Put your jumping skills to the test on 80 interconnected trampolines, or take part in games like the Colosseum, where players have to dodge balls while bouncing. Olympic-style performance trampolines also cater to the pros. Minimum age: 3 years.

AXEL DRAINVILLE

Y SPOTLIGHT

4/F, The Glass Quartier, EmQuartier, 02-014-2446. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

DINOSAUR PLANET

The scale and quality of this attraction in the heart of Bangkok is beyond anything we’ve ever seen here. That doesn’t mean you should expect Universal Studios, but this B500-million theme park is definitely world class. The focus is on dinosaurs, which translates to a lot of very cool animatronic, life-sized reptiles bobbing their heads and blinking at you with their doey eyes. Beyond the selfie opportunities, you can climb onto the Dino Eye for a rather unimpressive view (given that the surrounding buildings are taller than the ferris wheel), watch a “4D” film, or get chased about by guys in raptor suits.

554/1 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-833-2209. Open daily 10am10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

SIAM SERPENTARIUM

Let the child within break free and shoot at all your friends with some of the latest laser technology in Bangkok. This 500-sq-meter mazelike battlefield is laced with strobe lights, fluroscent decor and smoke machines, all adding to the sci-fi like vibes. Games cater for up to 32 people, from the taglike Alien Invasion, where players have the ability to infect each other, to the Blaster Booster game, where you have to dodge the lasers of other players.

SIAM SERPENTARIUM

SEA LIFE BANGKOK OCEAN WORLD

Tucked in the basement of Siam Paragon, one of Southeast Asia’s biggest aquariums is home to over 9,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. The aquarium also offers family-friendly interactive activities such as diving with the sharks, 4D cinema experiences, creature feeding, back-of-house visits and even real ocean walks in wetsuits. Be sure to check activity times prior to your visit. We also recommend making advanced reservations, as there are limited spots for each activity per day. B1-B2/F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-6872000. Open daily 10am-9pm. BTS Siam

Vimanmek First-time visitors will most likely already be in awe of the beautiful garden inside the palace gates, but step inside the colossal mansion and you’ll realize you can easily spend a whole day here, walking around the 31 exhibition rooms and taking in some of Thailand’s most prized photographs and artifacts, as well as King Rama V’s personal belongings ranging from elegant antique furniture to rare foreign memorabilia. But it isn’t just the museum’s displays that will catch your eye—the gorgeous teak structre itself boasts a great deal of colonial charm. 16 Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300. Open Tue-Sun 9:30am-3pm

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ART

EXHIBITION

ALIVE

Patcharapol Tangruen, aka Alex Face, is one of Bangkokâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most prominent street artists. His iconic character Mardi, a kid in a bunny outfit, has gone on show in London, Seoul and Taipei. Currently, heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hosting his first exhibition in four years at Bangkok CityCity Gallery (see below), showcasing 30 artworks featuring Mardi lost in a new world within a waterlily pond. Through Feb 19. Bangkok CityCity Gallery, 13/3 Sathorn Soi 1, 083-087-2725. Open Wed-Sun 1-7pm. MRT Lumphini

Hot Spots BEST CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERIES

BANGKOK CITYCITY GALLERY

This massive, purpose-built white cube right by Lumpini Park facilitates all forms of art, whether it's paintings, video instalation or live performance. Its opening exhibition, for which it set up a maze of tunnels to display works by celebrated local cartoonist Wisut Ponnimit, was an instant smash. The owner is young and rooted in Bangkok's art, skateboard and design subcultures, ensuring a cool if sometimes clique-y crowd.

BACC

13/3 Sathorn Soi 1, 083-087-2725. Open Wed-Sun 1-7pm. MRT Lumphini

100 TONSON GALLERY

Y SPOTLIGHT

100 Soi Tonson, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-010-5813. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. BTS Ratchadamri

Set in the bustling area across the road from Siam Square and MBK, the city's foremost art center lacks a permanent collection but hosts temporary contemporary art exhibitions across its nine floors. They can vary wildly in quality, but regularly offer glimpses of the country's best privately-held contemporary art collections. The center also contains small, design-centric stores, ranging from cafes and restaurants to book shops, and a movie theatre on its top floor. 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630-8. Open Tue-Sun 10am9pm. BTS National Stadium

This 18,000-sq-meter, five-story building in the North of Bangkok is Thailand's biggest private museum and first significant permanent modern art collection open to the public. The works are nearly all post 1970s, and mostly post 1990s even, with plenty of realism and surrealism depicting rural life, religious Buddhist scenes or mythological motifs from the Ramayana. The highlight is the fourth floor's four rooms dedicated to the late Thawan Duchanee, Thailand's most renowned contemporary painter. 499 Kamphaeng Phet 6 Rd., 02-016-5666-7. Open Tue-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat-Sun 11am-6pm

One of the foremost contemporary art galleries in Bangkok, 100 Tonson regularly welcomes such high-profile artists as Rirkrit Tiravanija. The gallery's greatest pride is its ability to take Thai artists abroad, and it was the first Thai gallery to be present at Art Basel, in Switzerland. Located in a beautiful modern building down a leafy soi, 100 Tonson was designed by renowned French designer Christian Liaigre.

BANGKOK ART AND CULTURE CENTRE (BACC)

MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART (MOCA)

BANGKOK CITYCITY GALLERY

H GALLERY

Set in a beautiful late-19th century, wooden building, H Gallery's exhibitions represent emerging contemporary Asian artist and are curated by Brian Curtin, one of the foremost experts in this field. One of Bangkok's more daring art spaces, it's not afraid to host provocative or controversial work. 201 Sathorn Soi 12, 085-021-5508. Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm; Mon 10am-6pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

National Museum Formerly the viceroy's palace, the National Museum is a must-see complex of traditional Thai structures. The front hall itself is highlighted by a monumental Buddha head from the Ayutthaya period that overlooks the whole exhibition space, while a stunningly graceful bronze Bodhisattva from the Srivijaya period takes center stage amid Khmer and Hindu sculptures. You'll also find carefully kept smaller pieces ranging from Buddhist art to delicate Rattanakosinera puppets. 4 Na Phra That Rd., 02 224-1404, 02-224-1333. Open Tue-Sun 9am-4pm

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Lat Phrao ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

Phahon Yothin ¾ËÅâÂ¸Ô¹

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!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumphini Park

MRT

5 Khao San Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

32 W H E R E T H A I LAND I J A NUA RY 2 0 1 7

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130. The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 JANUARY 2017 I W HER E THA ILA N D 33

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok AXEL DRAINVILLE

1 Sipping super-strong cocktails 6 Sipping on some of Bangkok’s !1 Chowing down on the delicious !6 Exercising our inner big kid at the with some delicious Thai-style tapas to share at Charoenkrung’s hottest restaurant, 80/20. See page 20.

most incredible cocktails at Vesper, where the head bartender was named best in Asia. See page 24.

Hong Kong-style bao buns at chef May Chao’s retro-style diner Little Bao. See page 19.

massive Bounce trampoline park. See page 30.

!7 Taking in the amazing views and 2 Savoring the authentic royal Thai 7 Discovering Michelin-star-wor- !2 Digging into the old-school Sino- premium craft beers of Brewski. See cuisine at Blue Elephant, a finedining institution set in a beautifully restored mansion. See page 26.

thy molecular reconstructions of classic Thai dishes at Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin. See page 27.

3 Welcoming Chinese New Year on Yaowarat Road, home to some of Bangkok’s most time-honored family restaurants. See page 6.

8 Getting front row tickets for a perfectly prepared plate of Thai- Phraya River’s prime attraction, Wat

4 Spending a cultural day at

!4 Shopping for lavish, one-of-a- bar, for the smoky sounds of its visit-

Vimanmek Palace, which houses the royal museums of photography, textiles and silk, clocks, and many other topics. See page 30.

5 Exploring the Tokyo-style taverns, ramen joints and sushi dens of Thonglor, Bangkok’s little Japan. See page 18.

Muay Thai Live: The Legend Lives, a fast-paced live Thai boxing show performed by former Muay Thai champs and national boxers. See page 30.

Thai noodles and roast duck at the 100-year-old Prachak. See page 20.

page 24.

!8 Booking a table at The Deck to !3 Dropping by Baan Padthai for enjoy front-row seats of the Chao land’s iconic noodle dish on the historic Charoenkrung Road. See page 20.

Arun. See page 27.

!9 Pulling up a rattan chair at The Bamboo Bar, Bangkok’s oldest jazz

kind statement jewelry pieces in the

ing singers. See page 24.

9 Shopping for the celeb-worthy boutique of Lotus Arts de Vivre. See styles of breakthrough local designer Disaya at her new boutique. See page 28.

@0 Checking into the luxurious Spa

page 28.

Botanica for a Thai massage. See

!5 Taking the train to Victory Monu- page 29. ment for some of the city’s best

!0 Heading to the top floor of The live jazz music at Saxophone. See @1 Spending a night at Thonglor’s Commons to enjoy the Middle Eastern-influenced dishes of Barisa popup restaurant. See page 18.

page 25.

chic 72 Courtyard, where craft cocktail lounges and tapas bars rub shoulders with nightclubs. See page 25.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

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34 W H E R E T H AILAND I J A NUA RY 2 0 1 7

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