WHERE Guestbook Thailand 2014

THAILAND

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Contents

THAI ESSENCE 08 THAILAND FOCUS A whistlestop tour of the Kingdom's main regions.

20 SAVORING SAMUI How the island's blossoming fine dining scene is taking a local direction.

28 PHUKET REVISITED A stroll through the heritage gems of the island's old town.

36 LANNA LIVING Exploring the roots of Chiang Mai's distinctive cultural and architectural style.

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44 THE RISE OF THAI CHEFS How Bangkok's dining scene is being transformed by a new wave of locals.

ON THE COVER

54 RAISING THE BAR We head up in the world to find the best rooftop bars in Bangkok.

64 HOMEGROWN DESIGN The evolution of Thailand's burgeoning fashion industry.

Sunset over the Chao Phraya River, Bangkok

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Contents THAI ESSENTIALS AROUND THAILAND:

AROUND BANGKOK:

24 SAMUI

48 DINING

From temples to fine dining, make the most of this island escape.

32 PHUKET

Enjoy a meal to remember at the city’s leading restaurants.

57 NIGHTLIFE

Where to go and what to do on the Pearl of the Andaman.

40 CHIANG MAI

Wine bars, nightclubs, live music venues and much more.

60 WELLNESS

The very best that the Northern city has to offer.

Relax at these top-notch spas and salons.

67 SHOPPING From luxury malls to sprawling markets.

70 ART & ATTRACTIONS Galleries and museums to inspire the imagination.

74 NEIGHBORHOODS Explore the many different sides to Bangkok.

where THAILAND ®

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THAILAND

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THAILAND FOCUS From the chilly, forest-clad hills of the North to the steamy island idylls that dot the Andaman Sea, the ancient temples of Isaan to the bustling modernity of Bangkok, Thailand is truly the dream travel destination. Rich in culture, history and tradition and blessed with areas of staggering natural beauty, it really does offer something for every visitor. Swim with whale sharks in the warm blue waters of the Gulf of Thailand, experience the colorful sight of monks receiving alms in the morning mist of Pai, watch the sun rise over Chiang Mai from the viewpoint Wat Phra That Doi Suthep or haggle for bargains in the chaotic weekend market at Chatuchak. The options are seemingly endless.

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PHANOM RUNG, BURIRAM

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THE GIANT SWING, RATTANAKOSIN

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BANGKOK The city of angels is also a city of contradictions. Skyscrapers of gleaming glass sit alongside incense-shrouded temples, while street stall owners peddle their wares opposite luxury shopping malls stocked with designer brands. Indeed it’s these contrasts that make Bangkok such a joy to visit. Officially founded in 1782, this sprawling city wrapped around the serpentine Chao Praya River manages to be both young and old, modern and traditional, exciting and serene depending on which sois (streets) you choose to wander down. From the exotic grandeur of the Grand Palace to the sweaty alleys of Chinatown, it offers the chance to eat delicious noodles from a family-run streetside vendor before jumping on an air-conditioned skytrain to hop across town and enjoy a sunset cocktail from the rooftop bar of a luxury hotel. The city’s contrasts combine for a truly memorable visit.

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NORTH EAST Better known as Isaan, this region has often been overlooked in the past by tourists drawn to the star appeal of Chiang Mai, Bangkok and Phuket. But that would be missing out on a magical and more traditional destination that offers a much slower pace of life. Separated from Laos and Cambodia by the mighty Mekong River, the region and its population perhaps share more in terms of culture, language and cuisine with their near neighbors than the rest of Thailand. Rice fields dominate a landscape dotted with ancient Khmer temples, fiery food is served up in sleepy towns, while sweeping vistas confront you at every turn.

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SOI SAWAN, UBON RATCHATHANI

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KOH LIPE

ANDAMAN COAST Azure blue waters, palm-fringed sands, hidden lagoons, coral reefs teeming with brightly colored fish, the Andaman coastline really does exceed all expectations when it comes to tropical beach paradises. Stretching from the quiet fishing town and hot springs of Ranong, south past the tourist mecca of Phuket and the beautiful sea scapes of Phang Nga Bay and Krabi, on down to the border of Malaysia and the myriad islands of Trang and Sathun, there are innumerable spots to revel in your own Robinson Crusoe moment. Discover that deserted bay to drop anchor, or just lay back and watch the sun dancing on the waves with a glass of something cool in hand.

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CENTRAL THAILAND Despite being dominated by the bustling metropolis that is Bangkok, Central Thailand, or the central plains, is also rich in history, culture and stunning scenery. The flat alluvial plains are home to countless ancient temples and the vibrant floating markets of Amphawa and Damnoen Saduak, the UNESCO World Heritage sites and former Thai capitals of Sukothai and Ayuddhaya, and the more recent past offered up by Kanchanaburi and its famous bridge over the River Kwai.

They also provide plenty of chances to enjoy Thailand’s diverse countryside, whether that’s the spectacular waterfalls and rich birdlife of Kaeng Krachan or the mountainous evergreen forests of Thailand’s oldest national park, Khao Yai.

AYUDDHAYA

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GULF OF THAILAND Covering a coastline that stretches from the Malaysian border down in Hat Yai all the way up the western seaboard past Bangkok and via Pattaya to Cambodia, the Gulf of Thailand is also dotted with innumerable beguiling tropical islands making it a beach lover’s paradise. The Gulf is home to such iconic destinations as the popular beach city of Pattaya, the pristine sands of Koh Samui and the full moon parties of Koh Phangan.

It also offers more laidback escapes like the charming royal resort town of Hua Hin, the diver’s paradise of Koh Tao and the more rugged beaches of Pranburi and beyond.

There’s plenty to do for those not satisfied with lying on a beach or by the pool, whether that’s learning to kite surf, taking a diving course or heading inland to explore the pineapple plantations, myriad local temples and beautiful national parks.

SAM ROI YOT, PRANBURI

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NORTHERN THAILAND Formerly home to the ancient Lanna kingdom, the Northern region of Thailand borders Myanmar and Laos. It is a land of morning mists, mountain ranges and a diverse range of ethnic groups. This heady combination makes it a hugely popular destination, thanks to its striking natural beauty and rich cultural heritage. From the charms of Chiang Mai, with its numerous temples and coffee houses, to the misty mountain hideaway that is Pai, you get a glimpse into how Thailand used to be. It certainly helps make it a perfect spot for those seeking the solace of nature, the nourishment of culture and the chance to escape the pressures of the modern world.

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DOI ANGKHANG, CHIANG MAI

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SAVORING SAMUI A new raft of fine dining venues are embracing their traditional Southern roots.

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hile Koh Samui might have first gained fame as a stop-off for backpackers looking to find themselves on round-the-world trips, the five-star accommodation options that have opened in the last decade means the island now attracts a more discerning standard of guest.

This in turn has had a hugely positive effect on the dining scene in terms of the quality and range of restaurants available. Its strength is further underlined by events like the annual Fine Dining Festival, which acts as a showcase for the island’s best chefs.

As a former chef for the King of Jordan Stephan Jean Dion knows all about meeting diners’ high expectations. The Canadian-born Executive Chef of the Hansar Samui’s flagship restaurant H Bistro serves up FrenchMediterranean cuisine using top-quality ingredients like French oysters and Hokkaido scallops, flown in from all over the world.

“Tourists here are willing to spend more money on the finest food,” explains Dion, who has worked on Samui for the past four years. “They also want to get a new dining experience during their stay.”

Namu, the stylish flagship restaurant at the equally chic W Retreat Koh Samui is clearly one such venue that looks to challenge taste buds and expectations. The warm décor reflects the fact that the name means wood in Korean, and now, under the control of new Korean chef Sin Keun Choi, the venue looks to reinvent classic Japanese recipes through a blend of Asian and Western flavors. The results are intriguing and artistic dishes like hamachi sashimi with leek and Mexican chili mint dressing or Maine lobster stir-fried udon noodles and chili.

But while experimentation is proving popular at Namu, it seems that the biggest trend in the island’s fine dining scene is actually focused closer to home. Indeed, in a move that can be said to follow a trend taking place in Bangkok, which started with the likes of Bo.Lan and David Thompson’s Nahm, Samui’s chefs and fine dining venues are embracing the unique tastes of authentic Thai food, rather than sticking to more classic European menus.

Konrad Inghelram, Executive Chef at Jahn, Conrad Koh Samui, has cooked all over Europe at leading Michelin star venues such as France’s Au Chapon Fin and Restaurant Molenberg in Belgium. “The diversity of the food and the spices, the large variety of tropical fruit and flavorful vegetables has drawn me to Thai cuisine,” says Inghelram. Along with his team he looks to introduce diners to the best in Thai cooking, while adding a refined twist by incorporating the finest imported ingredients and vintage wines in an opulent setting that sports some dramatic views.

H BISTRO

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KIREE

“We take our guests on a culinary journey deeply rooted in tradition, in the most luxurious of circumstances,” confirms Inghelram, who works closely with Jahn’s award-winning sommelier Charuk Chochan to pair dishes like Wagyu beef massaman with a 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon from South Africa.

Alex Gares is another foreign chef to fall under the spicy spell of the tastes and flavors of Thailand. The Spaniard, who has previously worked at Michelin-star restaurants including el Bulli and Lasarte in Catalonia, is now Executive Chef at the newly opened KOH. Perched on top of the hill at the Four Seasons resort where its high-ceilinged space makes the most of the cool breeze, Gares looks to challenge diners’ misconceptions about Thai food.

“At KOH we try to go beyond pad Thai and chicken satay. We try to bring a real Thai taste with top quality items, sourced locally as much as possible,” explains Gares, who loves to spend his free time exploring the local food scene, whether in the markets or at local restaurants.

“For me a lot of Southern dishes are among the most interesting. They utilize a lot of seafood, they’re fresh, sour, spicy and light,” he continues, while making a comparison with cooking from his home country.

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“Thai cuisine is very rich in its combinations of flavors.

There are a lot of similar combinations in Spanish food.

You can see sweet items as a main course, savory as desserts. For me it is one of the most interesting cuisines in the world.”

In fact, KOH is just one of a number of new openings that, rather than tackling Thai cuisine as a whole, are focusing in on the region’s traditional Southern dishes.

The beautifully appointed beachside spot of Kiree at the boutique Vana Belle resort is another example of a highend venue that embraces the uniquely piquant flavors and spices of Southern dishes like kua kling (spicy stir-fried pork or beef) or moo hong (braised pork belly). Meanwhile, the fashionably chic Drink Gallery at the Library, a member of the Design Hotels group, has looked to celebrate Southern flavors and the best of local cuisine in a new menu which focuses on local dishes.

Of course, the overall result is great news for foodies vacationing on the island. Not only can they explore a host of great local venues serving up a taste of Thailand (see our listings on page 25 for suggestions), but they can now also enjoy the best in Thai cooking at some sexy and sumptuous spots, which lift the dining experience to a whole new level.

KOH

ESSENTIALS Drink Gallery The Library, 14/1 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach, Bophut, 077-422-676-8. Open daily 11-1am. www.thelibrary.co.th H Bistro Hansar Samui, 101/28 Moo 1, Bophut, 077-245-511.

Open daily 6:30am-11pm.

Jahn 49/8-9 Moo 4, Hillcrest Road, 077-915-888. Open Wed-Sun 6-11pm. www.conradkohsamui.com Kiree 9/99 Moo 3, Chaweng Noi Beach, 077-915-555. Open daily 6-11pm. www.vanabellekohsamui. com KOH 219 Moo 5, Angthong, 077-243-000. Open daily 6:30-11am, noon-10pm. www.fourseasons.com/ kohsamui Namu 4 Bontji Moo 4, Bophut, 077-915-999. Open daily 6-11pm. Lunch Fri-Sun noon-4pm. www.wretreatkohsamui. com

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50 Years

Historic Pieces Attention all lovers of beautiful, authentic antiques, 50 Years Arts and Antiques is the gallery you should not miss. Owned

by Mr. Grusenmeyer, a globe trotter with more than 50 years in the trade, the gallery houses an impressive selection of unique pieces, from precious bronzes and terracotta sculptures to antique weapons and religious images.

Starting out selling bric a brac in flea markets when he was 18, Grusenmeyer quickly made his name and became well respected in the antique dealer community in Belgium. Later appointed as the president of the Guild of Antique dealers, he was involved in a number of exhibitions at many international fairs in cities around the world, including London, Paris, Brussels and TEFAF Maastricht.

For decades, he was also a member of the Royal Chamber of Antique Dealers.

Grusenmeyer moved to Thailand 15 years ago and decided to set up a New York-style warehouse gallery near the Chao Phraya River. 50 Years Arts and Antiques quickly gained respect from local members of the trade, including specialized dealers and international decorators.

Grusenmeyer’s extensive experience is evident in the carefully curated collection at his private gallery, which is set in the quiet street of Soi Charoen Krung 30, near the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel. A pan-

Asian art expert, Grusenmeyer’s store includes rare finds from lost kingdoms to carefully-preserved Southeast Asian artifacts. Among the precious pieces you will find at this treasure trove are Gandhara sculptures Buddha images from the 2nd - 5th centuries and Japanese armor from the Edo era of the 19th century. All of the pieces on sale here are certified by an authorized organization in Hong Kong, so you can rest assured that whatever you are buying is not just beautiful, but also authentic.

Not only will you be dazzled by these timeless masterpieces but also by the unique stories they hold. Grusenmeyer and his team are more than happy to show you around the collection and share these stories. They have the expertise and experience to ensure you have complete confidence in your purchase’s origins, and that your own priceless treasure comes with its own unique story and provenance.

Whether you are looking for your first antique decorative item or a rare piece for your collection, expect to be greeted warmly in a casual atmosphere that makes

FIFTY YEARS

ARTS AND ANTIQUES CO., LTD.

everyone feel at ease.

Open Monday to Friday, 10am-6pm.

Ground Floor (right door), 48 Soi Charoenkrung Soi 30, Bangrak, Bangkok, 02-267-2297. Stefaan@grusenmeyer.be

FIFTY YEARS ARTS AND ANTIQUES CO., LTD. 48 CHAROENKRUNG 30 BANGRAK BANGKOK 10500 THAILAND T/F: 02-267-2297 Email: stefaan@grusenmeyer.be

FIFTY YEARS ARTS AND ANTIQUES CO., LTD. 48 CHAROENKRUNG 30 BANGRAK BANGKOK 10500 THAILAND T/F: 02-267-2297 Email: stefaan@grusenmeyer.be

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ANGTHONG MARINE PARK

SAMUI The best things to see, do and enjoy on this island escape.

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ATTRACTIONS

DINING

ANGTHONG MARINE PARK

BAKUBUNG

Only 20km northwest of Samui, this Marine National Park covers 102 sq kilometers and contains 40 beautiful islands, only some of which you can set foot on.

Programs vary depending on tour operators but most take you to the two main highlights: Koh Mae Koh (Mother Island) where you can see the Inner Sea, a lagoon encircled by cliffs; and Koh Wua Ta Lub (Sleeping Cow Island) where you can choose between chilling on the beach or trekking to the hilltop for a superb view.

Note the park is closed annually November 1-30.

145/5 Moo 1, Bophut Beach, 084-6369090. Open daily 10am-7pm.

Open for years, this seaside café is still one of the best spots for a lazy afternoon sipping and sitting under the shade of the huts or coconut trees. The café serves snacks and finger food like fried chicken along with the signature Bakubung punch.

H BISTRO Hansar Samui, 101/28 Moo 1, Bophut Beach, 077-245-511. www.hansarsamui.com/h-bistro See Savoring Samui, page 20.

NA MUANG WATERFALLS

HAAD BANG PO

Set in thick tropical rainforest, the two cascades of Na Muang are most dramatic after the rainy season or between September to March. Accessible by car, Na Muang 1 is 18-meters tall and has a natural pool for swimming, while the 80-meter tall Na Muang 2 is more picturesque but does involve a 30 minute hike to get there, though it is well worth the trek.

Moo 4, Had Bang Por Beach, Mae Nam, 081-788-8936.

Run by Khun Moo, who has over 20 years of experience working as a chef in high-end hotels, this beachfront restaurant offers a very local taste in a rustic setting.

Expect classic local seafood dishes like khai jiew hor mok (omelet with spicy curry seafood), waii kua (octopus in dried curry) and pla song nam (deep fried seabass with spicy and sour sauce).

WALKING STREETS There now seems to be a night market almost every day of the week. On Fridays, Bophut Walking Street is the must-try, stretching along the entire Fisherman’s Village Street where wooden shophouses are home to cool restaurants, cafes, shops and guesthouses. There, street vendors sell everything from food and cooking ingredients to souvenirs made from coconuts. At Maenam intersection, Maenam Walking Street is great for cheap eats and takes place every Thursday, 5-10pm, while every Saturday, 5-10pm, Lamai Beach walking street is known for its focus on food and clothes.

WAT PHRA YAI Located on a small island called Koh Fan, connected by a 3km highway north of the airport, this famous temple is home to a 12-meter high golden Buddha statue. The temple sits on the top of a small hill and is reached by a series of steps. Once at the summit you can catch some impressive views of the island’s beaches, Koh Phangan and the Gulf of Thailand.

KOH

paste), which keeps the crowds coming back, while their pak liang (stir-fried local leaves with eggs) is also popular.

KIREE 9/99 Moo 3, Chaweng Noi Beach, 077-915-555. Open daily 6-11pm. www. vanabellekohsamui.com See Savoring Samui, page 20.

JAHN

KO SENG

49/8-9 Moo 4, Hillcrest Road, Taling-Ngam, 077-915-888. www.conradkohsamuiresort.com See Savoring Samui, page 20.

95 Moo 1, Taweeratpakdee Road, Mae Nam, 077-425-365, 077-247-245.

Long-adored by locals for its intriguing blend of Chinese and Southern Thai dishes, Ko Seng has been serving up seafood for more than 50 years. Their selling point is a commitment to serving only fresh seafood and they also grow their own organic vegetables to use in the busy kitchen. The menu changes depending on what’s been caught from the sea that day and you can enjoy it steamed, stir-fried or dished up in a distinctive Southern-style tom yam soup.

JAN HOM 7/3 Bang Por Beach, 077-236-458. www. facebook.com/JanHomRestaurant Right on the beach, this is the place to go if you want authentic Southern-style dishes along with fresh seafood. Get a table on the sand and order the signature dishes like the nam prik goong sod (vegetables with shrimp relish) and kua gling moo (stir fried pork with spicy herbs).

KHAO HOM 34/35 Moo 4, Bophut, 087-413-4084, 089-728-0376.

Khao Hom is situated right near Samui International Airport. The recipes are from the owner’s family, Samui locals for generations. Their most famous dish is moo kua kapi (stir-fried pork with shrimp

KOH 219 Moo 5, Angthong, 077-243-000.

Open daily 6:30-11am, noon-10pm. www.fourseasons.com/kohsamui KOH See Savoring Samui, page 20.

KRUA CHAO BAAN 438/18 Moo 1, Maret, 077-418-589. http://tinyurl.com/lyj9kxm Krua Chao Baan sits in three wooden houses right next to the white sands of Lamai Beach. Their menu is big on Southern recipes such as yellow gaeng som (spicy sour soup), stir-fried shrimp with sataw beans and hormok talay (crab eggs in steamed curry). Don’t miss their specialty, khai-jiew Krua Chao Baan, an omelet that looks more like a Spanish tortilla. As an added bonus, the beach is beautiful and you can work off those calories by taking their free kayak out for a paddle.

NAMU 4 Bontji Moo 4, Bophut, 077-915-999. www.wretreatkohsamui.com See Savoring Samui, page 20.

PA MAITREE 217/2 Soi 4, Maenam, 077-247-075.

Even though there are several kanomjeen (rice noodle) joints on the island, Pa Maitree is probably the best. The owner happily greets her customers with a variety of soups like nam ya (coconut soup), green curry and gaeng tai pla (a spicy Southern soup) to eat with the delicate rice noodles—and all at super cheap prices.

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SABEINGLAE

AIR BAR

DREAMERS

438/82 Moo 1, Maret, 077-233-082. www.sabienglae.com One of the best venues on the island for seafood, Sabeinglae offers a long list of authentic local dishes like gang kua hed lhoob (mushroom curry), wai kua (squid in coconut milk), fresh oysters with deepfried garlic and the deep-fried seabass. The bill is very affordable and the sea view a real plus.

InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam Resort, 295 Moo 3, Taling Ngam Beach, 077-429-100. www.samui.intercontinental.com Air Bar, at the InterContinental Samui, promises one of the most stunning sunset views on the island, with an open space overlooking the famous Five Islands off Samui’s west coast. But that’s not the only reason you should visit, as the cocktails are another potent highlight.

18/19 Moo 4, Bangrak Beach (Big Buddha), 077-425-012. www.dreamersbeachclub.com.

Looking to compete with the existing beach clubs of Nikki Beach and Beach Republic, the purple themed Dreamers opts for a distinctly sleek and contemporary look and feel, inspired by its sister clubs in Marbella and Ibiza in Spain. There’s a pool on the ground floor, fine dining on the second and a bar and club on the top floor. Live music is on Wed-Sat while DJs take over on Sun-Tue.

SUN MOON STAR 208/66 Moo 4, Maret, 077-960-555. www.silavadeeresort.com This dramatic spot serves up international food and three distinct experiences: Sun offers panoramic views from its deck, Moon is an all-day international dining restaurant, while Star is a romantic rooftop bar with tables sunk into the pool.

NIGHTLIFE

BEACH REPUBLIC Lamai Beach, 077-458-100. Open daily 7am-11pm. www.beachrepublic.com Elegant and sexy with its red hot décor, Beach Republic boasts two infinity pools, regular DJs and live performances. The Ultimate Sunday Brunch Club features an impressive international buffet while entry into the club is B1,000 per day (which turns into food & beverage credits).

9 GEMS

CHA CHA MOON

141/190 Moo 6, Bophut, 077-256-125. www.9gemssamui.com Hidden high up on a hilltop overlooking Pru Chaweng Lagoon, 9 Gems combines a lounge ambiance with stiff drinks and a slightly pop art decor. The menu offers fusion food, tapas, desserts and cocktails.

Seat yourself by the pool and order a glass (or a bottle) and enjoy the sunset.

Chaweng Beach, Bophut, 086-007-8850. www.facebook.com/chachamoonbeachclub The latest beach club to land on nightlife central Chaweng Beach, Cha Cha Moon offers daybeds on the beach, a rustic meets tropical vibe and a playlist that’s a welcome change from elsewhere on the island.

DRINK GALLERY The Library, 14/1 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach, Bophut, 077-422-676/-8. www.thelibrary.co.th This happening bar belongs to the island’s hip design hotel The Library and is suitably decked out in pop art, chandeliers and raw-wood furniture. The drinks list focuses on wine and cocktails, while the music is soft chill-out tunes. It also makes a nice warm-up spot if you want to explore the nearby Soi Green Mango, the center of Samui’s nighlife.

KC BEACH CLUB Chaweng Beach, 077-915-155. www.kchotelgroup.com This club’s facilities include an Italian restaurant, two pools and the added option of being able to check in to one of the 42 guest rooms and pool villas if the regular pool parties get too much.

NIKKI BEACH Lipa Noi Beach, 077-914-500. Open 11am-11pm. www.nikkibeach.com/kohsamui The sister of celeb-hang-outs, the Nikki's in Las Vegas, Miami and St. Tropez, this beach club offers the chance to kick back in its signature teepees around a free-form pool. The highlight of the week is the Amazing Sunday Brunch, offering over 40 dishes. The sunsets are pretty special too.

There are even bungalows to rent if you really love the place.

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HEALTH & WELLNESS ABSOLUTE SANCTUARY 88 Moo 5, Bophut, 077-601-190. www.absolutesanctuary.com.

The Moroccan-inspired wellness resort is situated up in Koh Samui’s Chong Mon Hills overlooking the Gulf of Thailand.

The resort offers detox, spa and yoga holiday programs which can be tailored to different needs. For those who just want to dip a toe into detox before taking the full plunge, the one-day sampler program is the most intensive short term option available.

AWAY SPA W Retreat Koh Samui, 4/1 Moo 1, Maenam Beach, 077-915-999. www. whotels.com/kohsamui This super stylish spa is finished in rich woods to give a welcoming and private experience in its seven treatment rooms spread over nine pavilions. There is a range of natural therapies on offer from body scrubs, wraps and massages to the more unique Thaimazcal herbal sauna/ steam experience. The first of its kind in Asia it's inspired by an ancient Mexican ritual and involves a hot sauna cave.

BANYAN TREE KOH SAMUI 99/9 Moo 4, Maret, 077-915-333. www.banyantree.com/en/samui The luxurious spa offers a wide range of Asian-inspired treatments and hydrothermal therapies, which aim to relax muscle tension through water applied at different temperatures, pressures and containing different mineral content. The setting evokes a peaceful forest temple in China, with its bamboo bushes and rocky floor.

KAMALAYA KOH SAMUI 102/9 Moo 3, Laem Set, Na Muang, 077-429-800. www.kamalaya.com Nestled in a jungle-covered mountain, Kamalaya is one of Thailand’s best integrated wellness retreats. Newcomers should try the full-board introduction program that aims to cleanse toxins from your body with a diet of pure organic food and a number of body treatments over three days. More advanced programs are available for longer stays.

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PHUKET REVISITED Explore the old town’s rich heritage and picturesque architecture.

SOI ROMMANEE

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ot only does Phuket have beautiful beaches and islands, the Pearl of the Andaman is steeped in history, evident in the capital Phuket Town, which is home to numerous cultural gems that are easy to fall in love with. In the heart of the bustling and picturesque center of town, the Baba Nonya community (an ethnic mix of Malay and Chinese) that lives there combines Chinese heritage, colonial influences and indigenous traditions. So put on your walking shoes and get ready for fiery Southern Thai cuisine, Hokkien delicacies, Sino-Portuguese architecture and stimulating art galleries.

The historic town center’s most beautiful streets are all within walking distance of each other: Dibuk, Thalang, Phang Nga, Yaowarat. Nearly every shophouse in the area is worth its salt but the On On Hotel (the oldest hotel in town) and Promthep Clock Tower are the two main landmarks. Another mustsee is Soi Rommanee connecting Thalang and Dibuk roads, a former red light district with colorful shophouses. There’s a little flea market there every Saturday night (get there before 10pm).

Phuket Island has long been a port of call for foreign trading vessels and from the 16th century on, the island was mined for its tin. Phuket’s shophouses and villas, dating from the 1860s, bear close resemblance to those of British colonial Penang, and there’s a definite convergence of Eastern and Western styles. The best way to start your journey through time is at the Phuket Thai Hua Museum, which transforms the oldest school building in Phuket (dating back to the 1930s) into a two-story exhibition space detailing the island’s Chinese ancestry, Phuket Town’s growth to prosperity and the school itself.

After enjoying the architecture, take your art appreciation to another level at Phuket Town’s countless galleries, many of which are tucked away in centuryold buildings. First, stop at Art Room, a gallery-plus-school that sells contemporary and traditional art by students at affordable prices. For a little more ambiance, head to Phuket 346. This 100-year-old two-story building is not only a gallery, but a funky guesthouse with a cafe and bar, where you can relax among the playful contemporary works. Things are also pretty fun over at Wua Studio, which was founded by Mr. Zen, an advertising executive who quit his job to pursue his passion for minimalist art pieces. For something more traditional, try Sirasil, iMon Art Gallery or Pab Khien Thai Art Gallery.

ESSENTIALS Art Room 29 Yaowarat Rd., 087-273-2413. www.artroomphuket.com Duke’s Fusion Bar & Bistro 14 Rassada Rd., 076-210-535. http://tinyurl.com/mfynttl Gallery Café 106 Rassada Rd., 076-211-775. www.gallerycafe-phuket.com iMon Art Gallery 29/2 Phang Nga Rd., 086-961-8968.

Ko Benz 163 Krabi Rd., 084-060-7799.

Kopi de Phuket 61 Phuket Rd., 076-212-225. www.kopidephuket.com Kopitiam 18 Thalang Rd., 083-606-9776. http://tinyurl.com/nnp322u Mac-chiato House 48 Thalang Rd., 076-215-701. http://tinyurl.com/k7qmnse Mee Ton Poh 214/7 Phuket Rd., 076-216-293.

Pab Khien Thai Art Gallery 3 Tabkrasattree Rd., 089-908-6769.

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WUA STUDIO

If you need a caffeine boost during your explorations, then sip some traditional coffee among the locals at Kopi de Phuket and try their old-meets-new cuisine. The place has a Chinese tavern-feel on the ground floor and resembles a Chinese tea house on the second. They also have a café at the On On Hotel.

For something more Western, join the queue of expats at Gallery Café where they serve everything from full English breakfasts to dinner options like pasta. Mac-chiato House serves homemade coffee and cakes. It’s set in a shophouse some 20-30 meters deep, with a garden at the back that’s particularly typical of Phuket Town. Also look up the longstanding China Inn and Dibuk Restaurant, both are lovely architectural specimens.

If you need more than coffee, you’re in luck. Due to its mix of cultures, Phuket offers a wide range of cuisines ranging from authentic Southern Thai to fusion and Chinese Hokkien. Suay Restaurant serves up creative Thai fare at low prices courtesy of Chef Tammasak Chootong, formerly a chef at Banyan Tree Hotels. Try the guay tiew lod salmon khao soy (steamed salmon in rice noodles served with yellow curry) and tum BBQ ma kue yao (grilled long eggplant salad with crab meat). Dessert is a must, too, namely the mango sticky rice spring roll and black sesame ice-cream. Southern cuisine meets Sino-Portuguese décor at Raya. The century-old building boasts an original mosaic tiled floor and walls adorned with 1950s tea and coffee poster-girls and pictures of Thai monarchs. The line-up of traditional Phuket dishes include moo hong (steamed pork with pepper and garlic), gaeng nue poo bai cha ploo (crab meat with curry and coconut

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milk) and pad sataw kapi goong (stir fried sataw beans with shrimps). For a lighter meal, consider Kopitiam where they serve traditional dishes like pad mee Hokkien (Phuket-style noodles) and bak kut teh (pork bone herbal soup).

If street food is more your thing, you’ve come to the right place. Start with the famous Mee Ton Poh, a popular haunt for those who can’t get enough of signature dishes like pad mee Hokkien. Next, head to Yaowarat Road and search Soi Sun Uthit for the hard-to-spot Ji Peng stall where you can get delicious mee hun (fried noodles served with pork bone soup). Right next door is a stall that serves Phuket’s famous dessert, o-aew (herbal jelly in red syrup).

Despite, or perhaps because of, the rich heritage of the area, parts of old Yaowarat and Dibuk roads are real hotspots come nightfall. Savvy young entrepreneurs have revamped the old shophouses and turned them into chill bars where you can enjoy live music among the local cool set. Sanaeha is romantic in the early evening with its quiet vibe and big chandelier, but later on it gets packed with young partygoers. It’s a similar case at Ploenchit, where you definitely need to make a reservation on Friday and Saturday nights. On Rassada Road, not far from Yaowarat, is Duke’s Fusion Bar & Bistro, a relatively new bistro serving up fusion food and drinks amid an industrial-themed decor.

If you’re hungry after dancing well into the night, head to Ko Benz for the most renowned tom luerd moo (pig’s blood in clear soup) in town. They’re open 7pm-3am, so there’s no need to go to bed hungry.

ESSENTIALS Phuket 346 15 Soi Romanee, Thalang Road, 076-258-108. www.phuket346.com Phuket Thai Hua Museum 28 Krabi Rd., 076-211-224.

Open daily 9am-4pm.

Ploenchit 22-24 Dibuk Rd., 081-536-1377. http://tinyurl.com/ kvng9ub Raya 48 Dibuk Rd., 076-218-155.

Sanaeha 83-85 Yaowarat Rd., 076-218-515. http://tinyurl.com/ nbaubnx Sirasil 121 Phang Nga Rd., 076-224-532.

Suay Restaurant 50/2 Takuapa Rd., 087-888-6990. www.suayrestaurant.com Wua Studio 95 Phang Nga Rd., 076-258-208. www.wua-artgallery.com

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PHUKET Where to go and what to do on the Pearl of the Andaman.

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ATTRACTIONS BANGLA BOXING STADIUM 198/4 Rat-U-Thit Rd., Patong, 089-726-1112. www.banglaboxingstadiumpatong.com The ancient art of muay Thai is a big part of Thailand’s cultural heritage, and a trip to see a fight is a fascinating, if slightly in-your-face, experience thanks in no small part to the frenetic gambling of the crowd. Located in Patong behind Jungceylon Shopping Mall, Bangla Boxing Stadium features three fight nights a week on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday from 9pm.

FREEDOM BEACH

PROMTHEP CAPE

Phuket’s true hidden gem, Freedom Beach (or Laem Mai Ngao to locals) is only accessible via an adventurous jungle trek or by longtail boat. As a result there isn’t a single resort here and it feels wonderfully secluded, a blessed relief on this very developed island. No longer a complete secret, expensive boat transfers (B2,0003,000 roundtrip from Patong Beach) are still a barrier to the bulk of the crowds.

Rawai, Muang District.

Incredibly popular with local tourists who come here to see the sunset, Promthep Cape sits on the southern tip of the island looking out over the Andaman Sea. Get to the viewpoint just before 6pm to join the crowds watching the sun drop below the waves. The view is particularly special between December and March when the grass on the cape turns yellow and brown, giving the area a golden glow.

KALIM BEACH Prabaramee Road, Kalim Beach.

If you happen to be in Phuket during the monsoon season between May and October, then you shouldn’t miss the chance to grab a board and hit the surf. The most popular spot is Kalim Beach, home to wave rides as long as 100 meters with swells of up to three meters. If you need an introduction to the sport, there are a number of surf shops that offer courses.

PHUKET BIG BUDDHA Narkkerd Hill, Karon, Muang District.

Located atop the steep Narkkerd Hill between Kata and Chalong beaches, this giant white Buddha is visible across much of the island. Built as a symbol of faith and community, the 45-meter-tall statue gazes impassively over the southern tip of the island. Easily accessed by road, the lofty spot offers some breathtaking views.

BLUE ELEPHANT

PROMTHEP CAPE

DINING BLUE ELEPHANT 96 Krabi Rd., Phuket Town, 076-354-355. www.blueelephant.com The world-famous Thai restaurant group renovated the historic, century-old Prapitak Chinpracha Sino-Portuguese mansion.

What once belonged to an affluent family is now a luxurious dining space serving some of the best Royal Thai cuisine on the island. There’s also a cooking school.

SPLASH JUNGLE WATER PARK

CHEF DANIEL’S GASTRO BAR

65 Moo 4, Mai Khao Soi 4, Mai Khao, 076-372-111. www.splashjunglewaterpark.com A relatively new addition to the island, this large water park, situated near Mai Khao Beach, has hair raising rides like the Boomerango and Super Bowl, a wave pool, a lazy river, hydrotherapy pool and a playpool for younger children. There is also a restaurant, café and the Splash Bar. It’s free for guests at Centara West Sands Resorts & Villas Splash or B1,295 for adults, B650 for children (5-12).

100/19 Bang Tao Soi Srisoonthorn Rd., Cherngtalay, 093-764-6753.

Originally from Sweden, Chef Daniel Isberg had over 15 years’ experience working in many countries before opening the first gastro bar in Phuket in 2013.

The result is a unique dining experience where you can enjoy potent cocktails in a delightful bar setting and highlight dishes like the poached Phuket rock lobster tails with Champagne risotto, and pistachio crusted New Zealand lamb racks, served with Port wine sauce.

WAT CHALONG

DEDOS

Chaofah West Road, Muang District, 076-280-343.

The most striking and definitely most important of the 29 temples on Phuket island, it was founded sometime in the 1830s. There are various tales about the important role the temple and its monks have played in the island’s history. The newest addition is a 60 meter high pagoda built in the late 1990s to house a relic of Buddha brought here from Sri Lanka.

8 Lagoon Rd., Cherngtalay, 076-325182. www.dedos-restaurant.com Created by Chef Pablo Blattmann, a keen chef who went to study French gastronomy at the renowned Institut Paul Bocuse in France, DeDos offers impressive quality and wellpresented dishes with a mix of Mediterranean, Thai, Japanese and French flavors.

KAN ENG@PIER 44/1 Moo 5, Viset Road, Rawai, 076-381-212.

Though the decor has been refurbished, the makeover of this decades-old eatery that sits overlooking Chalong Bay has left the menu untouched. That’s a good thing for its loyal following of upscale islanders addicted to their deepfried seaweed and spicy yellow soup.

KRACHANG BANG MUD 73 Lam Hin, Koh Kaew, 08-1698-5258, 081-273-2367, 081-537-4227.

First you have to get to Laem Hin pier at the end of Soi Pa Lai and then catch a long tail boat to the restuarant, a floating houseboat. Not only does it have a distinct atmosphere, but it offers super fresh seafood with authentic local flavors. We recommend grilled hoi chak teen, a rare sea conch found only in the Andaman Sea.

LIM’S 28 Phra Baramee Soi 7, Kathu, Patong, 076-344-834. www.limsphuket.com.

Set on the outskirts of Patong, you reach Lim’s by climbing a long, potholed stretch of road that seems to shoot straight into the jungle above. Lim’s itself is a stark, bare, concrete box, but its garden brings the luxuriant foliage right into the otherwise minimalist decor. The food is fusion, the mango daiquiris are to-die-for and the servers are cute and attentive.

MAC -CHIA TO 48 Thalang Rd., 076-215-701.

See Phuket Revisited, page 28.

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MEE TON POE

PHUKET 346

TRISARA SEAFOOD

214/7-8 Phuket Rd., 076-216-293.

See Phuket Revisited, page 28.

15 Soi Rommanee, 076-258-108. www.phuket346.com See Phuket Revisited, page 28.

60/1 Moo 6, Srisoonthorn Road, 076-310-100. www.trisara.com Set in a high-end resort on the quiet side of Nai Thon Beach, the décor of bleached wood and cool colors are inspired by Mediterranean beachside restaurants. The kitchen offers a wide range of gourmet seafood dishes like grilled tiger prawns with Himalayan salt.

MOR MU DONG 9/4 Chao Fah Ta Wan Aok Rd., Chalong, 076-282-302.

Set in open-air bamboo huts above the mangrove swamps, the restaurant has a particularly rustic edge (you sit on mats at a low table) that puts you very close to nature. It also offers very authentic Thai seafood like stuffed curry mackerel and grilled fish in a salt crust.

PA LAI Soi Pa Lai, Chao Fa Road, Chalong, 076-282-174.

The restaurant is set on the eastern coast of the island overlooking Chalong Bay. Offering a variety of Thai seafood dishes in a casual setting, it gets suitably busy.

We recommend the fresh seafood like grouper, grilled prawns and crab. Aim to get there before 6pm to enjoy the sunset.

PAKNAM SEAFOOD 52/220 Moo 3, Rassadanusorm Road, 076-240-240.

Located in the north of Phuket Town the restaurant offers sensationally fresh Thai seafood at reasonable prices. Popular among locals, its reputation means it can be hard snagging a table.

RAYA 48 Dibuk Rd., 076-218-155.

See Phuket Revisited, page 28.

TANGKAE 36 Moo 3, Chao Fa Road, Chalong, 076-282-341.

The restaurant offers the ultimate in fresh seafood as you get to pick your dinner from the specimens swimming around in the water tanks. Recommended dishes here are BBQ lobster, chilli mud crab and tom yum kung with tiger prawns. The spacious restaurant also has a beautiful view over Panwa Cape.

THE SIAM SUPPER CLUB 36-40 Lagoon Rd., Cherngtalay, 076270-936. www.siamsupperclub.com Located right outside the Laguna Phuket Complex, this sleek venue opts for a classic prohibition era chic with lots of dim lights and dark wood. It’s long bar serves up must-try cocktails, a great wine list and there’s a good selection of what they call West Coast dishes covering classic grill options like Australian lamb rack and char grilled Angus beef burger as well as pastas and pizza.

NIGHTLIFE BABA NEST 88 Sakdidej Rd., 076-371-000. www.sripanwa.com Baba Nest at Sri Panwa is perhaps the hottest nightlife spot in Phuket. The 4,000-sq-meter deck sits on top of the entire resort and is hugged by a 360-degree infinity pool so that nothing blocks the panoramic view of Phang Nga Bay. As such, it's one of the preferred spots on the island to enjoy a picturesque sunset scene while lounging in a bean bag. The alfresco toilet is pretty cool, too.

CATCH BEACH CLUB Surin Beach Road, Cherngtalay, 076-316-567. www.catchbeachclub.com While Surin Beach might now have been taken over by beach clubs, this one does have the added kudos of being the first of its kind on the island. The stylish club offers lifestyle experiences like spa treat-

ments, beach BBQs, brunches and sunset cocktails, even a sail on their yacht. It has hosted plenty of international DJs as well.

During high season, there is a B3,000 daily fee for entry but you do get that amount to spend as credit on food and drink.

DIRTY MONSTERA Indigo Pearl, Nai Yang Beach and National Park, 076-327-006. www.indigo-pearl.com Late in 2013 the Indigo Pearl opened its first wine bar and club, Dirty Monstera, offering an extensive wine and cocktail list and live music in a rather exuberant setting, which mixes neon signs, steampunk architecture referencing the area’s past as a tin mine, and luxuriant plants. The gourmet menu includes light snacks, tapas and mezze and they often run happy hour deals.

FULL MOON BREW WORK Jungceylon Shopping Center, Rat Uthit Road, Patong, 076-366-753. Open MonSat 11am-midnight, Sun 1pm-midnight. www.facebook.com/fullmoonbrewwork.

The one and only microbrewery in the South of Thailand, it’s the brainchild of the people behind local lager Phuket Beer.

Decked out in New York loft-style (high ceiling, exposed brick walls, black metal details), it’s a chilled-out affair with low tables and bean bags. They do it properly, too, with signature microbrews, Phuket Lager and Oriental Wheat, on tap along with cocktails and international food.

KA JOK SEE 26 Ta Kua Pa Rd., 076-217-903.

Kenzo, Kate Moss, Calvin Klein—when the fashion crowd descends upon highend retreat Amanpuri, their port of call in Phuket Town is always Ka Jok See. The charming old shophouse serves acceptable Thai food (no frills, no fusion) but people come mostly for the atmosphere. Weekends see drag shows with a retro touch (the oversized Marylyn Monroe is divine) and, after dinner, tables are usually pushed aside (or used as podiums) for some late-night dancing.

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PLOENCHIT

BABA NEST

NIKKI BEACH 62/11 Moo 6, Cherngtalay, 076-681-161. www.nikkibeach.com/phuket One of the latest beach clubs to arrive on the island looks to imitate its other global incarnations. Decked out with plush white sunbeds and lots of drapery, there’s definitely a laidback luxe vibe going on around the central freeform pool, which sits just steps from the beach. The club promises dining, entertainment, fashion, music, film and art, as well as special daily events like their famous Sunday brunch and sunset happy hours.

PLOENCHIT Dibuk Road, 076-218-515.

See Phuket Revisited, page 28.

RE KA TA Boathouse by Montara, Kata Beach, 076-330-421. www.boathousephuket. com Situated on Kata Beach, Re Ka Ta Club is part of the luxurious Boathouse by Montara’s grand renovations. Designed by a Balinese architect, the beach club sports a tropical design and features a swimming pool, lounge, beachfront cocktail bar, holistic spa, restaurant and boutique—so you can easily spend a whole day here.

SANAEHA Yaowarat Road, 081-536-1377.

See Phuket Revisited, page 28.

WHITE BOX 2475/7 Prabarame Rd., 076-346-271. www.whiteboxphuket.com At the far end of Patong, next to Kalim Beach, you’ll find this boxy all-white modern architectural offering perched above the sand. Big bay windows in the dining room offer sweeping views, while the rooftop also promises a light sea breeze. There’s the added bonus of live music and special DJs on weekends.

WONDERLAND 104 Yaowaraj Rd., Ban Talat Yai, 086024-1907. www.wonderlandphuket.com Set in a 100-year-old shophouse in the old quarter of Phuket Town, this cocktail lounge looks to live up to its name by wowing visitors with its decor of unique artsy pieces and vivid red walls. Offering a good selection of cocktails and sushi, it's a hip hangout for locals.

XANA BEACH CLUB Angsana Laguna Phuket, Moo 10, Srisoonthorn Road, Cherngtalay, 076324-101. www.xanabeachclub.com One of the swankiest beach clubs on the island, and perhaps the biggest, thanks its vast stretch of beach. It’s also dedicated to bringing in big-name DJs. The club features a 35-meter swimup bar overlooking Bangtao beach, hugged by sofas, daybeds and cabanas.

HEALTH & WELLNESS ATSUMI HEALING CENTER 34/18 Soi King Pattana 4, Saiyuan Road, Rawai, 081-272-0571. www.atsumihealing.com Operating as a health resort, Atsumi offers fasting and detox programs, which include yoga, massage and treatments like colon hydrotherapy. There are many packages on offer ranging from three- to ten-day programs. Facilities include a gym, a swimming pool and a raw café, which offers a variety of raw food dishes.

BANYAN TREE SPA 33 Moo 4, Srisoonthorn Road, Cherngtalay, 076-324-374. www.banyantreespa.com The luxurious tropical garden spa focuses on Asian therapies, promoting harmony of body and mind with a holistic approach. Offering a wide range of treatments, the spa’s signature is the Royal Banyan, which involves placing a herbal pouch dipped into warm sesame oil on your skin to release tension.

CHER AIM SPA VILLAGE 16 Wichitsongkram Rd., Wichit, 076249-670-5. www.cheraimspavillage.com Set in wooden contemporary Thai-style pavilions amidst lush gardens, the spa village offers a peaceful and relaxed environment despite its central location just opposite Central Festival Phuket. It offers extensive spa treatments, ranging from traditional Thai and body massages to scrubs and wraps.

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COMO SHAMBALA RETREAT Point Yamu by COMO, 225 Moo 7, Paklok, 076-360-100. www.comohotels.com/pointyamu Opened in late 2013 this spa is part of the stylish Point Yamu by COMO resort, the sister of the renowned Metropolitan hotel in Bangkok. Designed by Italian Paola Navone the Shambhala Retreat is extensive, with a 100m swimming pool, yoga studio, a large gym and offers lots of signature treatments.

TRISARA SPA 60/1 Moo 6, Srisoonthorn Road, Cherngtalay, 076-310-100. www.trisara.com Atop the hill above the resort’s pool villas, the spa consists of six 100-sq-meter treatment rooms, each equipped with a steam room, two showers and open balcony with views of either the tropical garden or the Andaman Sea. It also has the oceanfront Sea Spa, set right on the beach, where you can have a mani-padi.

YOGA REPUBLIC 123/3-5 Moo 5, Srisoonthorn Road, Cherngtalay, 082-280-3914. www. yogarepublic.com Set amidst a relaxed and serene environment on Bangtao, the yoga studio uses an infrared heating system said to create a perfect temperature for yoga practice.

Two types of yoga are offered here: Hot Hatha Yoga for advanced yogis and Power/Vinyasa Yoga (30-32 degrees Celsius) for regular yogis.

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LANNA LIVING Where to go to discover the charms of Northern culture.

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ention Chiang Mai and it brings to mind an image of a historic town encircled by mountains where life proceeds at a more sedate pace than elsewhere in Thailand. It is little wonder then that most first-time visitors are surprised when they discover a burgeoning city with a population that exceeds one million. Yes, Chiang Mai enjoys an impressive mountain backdrop, its streets and moats are tree-lined, it is home to numerous ancient temples and bustling fresh food markets, and there is a certain easy-going charm to Northern Thai people; but in recent years the city has undergone rapid expansion while retaining its unique appeal.

Much of Chiang Mai’s allure with today’s savvy travelers has been down to an ability to draw inspiration from its rich Lanna heritage and distinctive local culture.

Vibrant and confident, modern-day Chiang Mai is alive with Lanna creativity, making it an exciting destination for even the most fashionable of globetrotters.

In the late 13th century, much of what we know today as Northern Thailand, together with parts of Myanmar and Laos, formed the Lanna kingdom or the ‘land of a million rice fields.’ Prior to the creation of Chiang Mai, nearby Wiang Khum Kham was the Northern capital.

Situated some five kilometers south-east of present-day Chiang Mai, it was destroyed by flooding in 1294 but the ruins of 30 temples are still a popular attraction and can be explored by pony and cart.

In Chiang Mai, many reminders of the city’s past glories remain, including its oldest temple, Wat Chiang Man, on Ratchaphakinai Road, which has been around since 1296. Built by King Mengrai, the main hall was constructed using huge teak pillars and houses ancient and revered Buddha images. Another temple that exhibits classic Lanna style is Wat Phra Singh at the end of Ratchadamnoen Road. The temple features exquisite wood carving and is home to the revered Phra Buddha Sihing statue which dates back to the early 1400s.

At the height of its power in the 15th century, Chiang Mai wielded great cultural and religious influence throughout the region. But in 1556, Burmese troops sacked Chiang Mai and maintained their rule until 1774 when the Thais mustered enough force to repel the invaders. It was not until 1804 that the last toehold of the Burmese was forced out. The legacy of the Burmese occupation is still clearly visible today in the art and

WAT PHRA SINGH

architecture of Chiang Mai and it is this more than anything that gave birth to Lanna style.

An excellent way to gain further insight into local culture is at the Lanna Folklife Museum, which includes rooms dedicated to the architecture of Lanna-style temples and religious imagery, textiles and silverware.

KHON MUEANG As you might expect in a region bordered by Laos and Myanmar and with China lying further north, the population of Chiang Mai and Northern Thailand reflects the historical influences of each country. The people of the North refer to themselves as ‘Khon Mueang’ or the ‘people of the principalities.’ The Khon Mueang are part of the large group of Tai-speaking peoples and closely related to the Lao people in Laos and northeastern Thailand, the Tai Lue from Yunnan, and the Shan or Tai Yai from Myanmar. Although there are regional differences in traditional dress and dialects, the Khon Mueang are today united by a common language known as ‘kham mueang,’ Buddhism, their culture and cuisine.

ESSENTIALS Chiang Mai Tribal Museum Ratchamangkla Park, Chotana Road. Open daily 9am–4pm.

Heun Penh Restaurant 112 Ratchamankha Rd., Phra Singh, 053-814-548.

Krua Petch Doi Ngam 125/3 Mahidol Rd., 053-812-051.

Lam Duan Faham Faham Road, 053-243-519.

Lanna Folklife Museum Phrapokklao Road.

Open Tue-Sun 8:30am–5pm.

Tamarind Village 50/1 Ratchadamnoen Rd., www.tamarindvillage.com Wat Chiang Man Ratchaphakinai Road.

Open daily 8am-5pm.

Wat Phra Singh Ratchadamnoen Road.

Open daily 6am-5pm.

Worawat Market Off Chang Moi Road.

Open daily 8am-5pm.

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For many visitors, the attraction of Chiang Mai province is the many hill tribes that inhabit the upland areas; namely the Akha, Hmong, Karen, Lawa, Lahu, Lisu, and Yao, who are skilled farmers and also renowned for weaving, silverwork and basketry. The informative Chiang Mai Tribal Museum on the northern outskirts of the city gives a good introduction to the local tribes you may encounter in the city and the hills beyond.

The most spectacular example of Lanna art can be witnessed in Wua Lai district where artisans have been producing exquisite silverwork for centuries. The techniques are thought to have been introduced by Burmese and Shan craftsmen during the 13th century.

The imagery is hammered out to produce the pattern in high-relief, a technique known as repoussage. Today, the crowning achievement of Wua Lai craftsmen and women is Wat Sri Suphan on Wualai Road, an exquisite temple which includes a silver ubosot or ordination hall.

Chiang Mai’s many chic boutiques are packed with modern interpretations of these traditional crafts, particularly in and around the trendy enclave of Nimmanhaemin Road where you will also find art galleries, cool cafes and trendy bars and restaurants.

Chiang Mai’s popular ‘Walking Streets’ also attract hoards of shoppers who come to browse, buy local products—and eat at the vibrant pavement markets from about 4pm until 10pm. On Saturday evenings, Wua Lai Road is lined with vendors and on Sunday the Tae Pae Gate area and Ratchadamnoen Road pull in big crowds.

NORTHERN SOUL FOOD Northern food is incredibly popular with Thai visitors and few leave without packing their bags full of local delicacies. The distinctive cuisine also reflects the region’s history through dishes such as kao soi noodles and gaeng hang lae curry which have their roots in Yunnan and Myanmar. Although most restaurants have a few Northern dishes on the menu, only a handful are dedicated exclusively to Northern Thai food. Two of the best are Heun Penh and Krua Petch Doi Nahm or head to Lam Duan Fahham for a comforting bowl of kao soi, the classic dish of Northern style noodles. Exploring the fresh food markets in Chiang Mai is also a great way to get a feel for the local way of life. The most central is Worawat Market, just off Chang Moi Road. A short walk away is Ton Lamyai Market, a fresh flower market by the river. Most of the flowers here are sold by hill tribe people whose families grow them in the surrounding mountains.

Other markets worthy of exploration include Kad Luang and Chang Puak.

PRECIOUS GEMS Each year in March or April, the Shan or Tai Yai people of Chiang Mai hold the colorful festival of Poi Sang Long. The event is held to ordain young Shan boys into the monkhood and begins at the temple with the ritual shaving of their hair. The following day they are dressed in brightly colored clothes and paraded through the town on the shoulders of relatives as sang long or precious gems. In Chiang Mai, celebrations are held at two Shan temples, Wat Ku Tao, behind the Municipal Stadium, and Wat Pa Pao between Chang Puak Gate and the intersection of Wichayanon and Chaiyaphum roads.

Another popular annual event in the North is the Bor Sang Umbrella Festival. Held each January in the village of Bor Sang, it is a celebration of the traditional skills used in making umbrellas from saa or mulberry paper and also features exhibitions and a ‘Miss Bor Sang’ beauty pageant.

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CHIANG MAI What to do and where to go in the charming Northern city.

DOI INTHANON, CHIANG MAI

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ATTRACTIONS CHIANG MAI TRIBAL MUSEUM Chotana Road, within Ratchamangkla Park, 053-210-872. Open daily 9am4pm.

See Lanna Life, page 36.

DOI INTHANON NATIONAL PARK At 2,599 meters above sea level, Doi Inthanon is the highest mountain in Thailand; the area around it has been a national park since 1972. Situated 60km from Chiang Mai’s city center, the park features many beautiful waterfalls such as Mae Klang, Vachiratharn, Siriphum and Mae Ya and has a diverse range of bird life. The main Gew Mae Pan trail lets you enjoy the spectacular views and takes you to the impressive Napamaytanidol Chedi, built in honor of King Bhumipol’s 60th birthday.

LANNA FOLKLIFE MUSEUM Phra Pokklao Road, 053-217-793.

Open Tue-Sun 8:30am-5pm. www.cmocity.com See Lanna Life, page 36.

MON CHAM Nong Hai Village, Pong Yaeng, Mae Rim, 081-806-3993.

Sipping a warm cup of coffee while looking out over the mist at Mon Cham, the lush hilltop plateau situated within the Nong Hoi Royal Project in Chiang Mai, is definitely worth the early start. If you want to be sure of seeing the sunrise, you can stay overnight at the camping resort in one of the bamboo huts or just head along for the day and enjoy the view while dining al fresco on great Thai meals cooked fresh using organically-grown Royal Project ingredients.

WAT CHIANG MAN Ratchaphakinai Road. Open daily 8am-5pm.

See Lanna Life, page 36.

THAPAE WALKING STREET

WAT GATE MUSEUM Wat Gate Karam, Charoenraj Road.

Open daily 8am-5pm. Free admission.

Awarded the prize for best community conservation by the Association of Siamese Architects (ASA), the Wat Gate Community is home to ancient shophouses that reflect Chinese, Western and Lanna influences. Near the temple (Wat Gate), a private museum, run by local volunteers, houses an eclectic selection of artifacts from an old Siamese White Elephant flag to elaborate Lanna textiles and faded black-and-white photos of bygone Chiang Mai.

WAT PHRA SINGH Ratchadamnoen Road. Open daily 6am-5pm.

See Lanna Life, page 36.

WAT SRI SUPHAN Wualai Road. Open daily 6am-5pm.

See Lanna Life, page 36.

ARHA AMA

Thapae Gate on Ratchadamnoen Road, and runs from 3pm till midnight. Both are busy and pretty authentic but we’d recommend skipping the slightly tacky night market on Changklan Road.

WORAWAT MARKET Near the river at the end of Chiang Mai Road. Open daily 8am-5pm.

See Lanna Life, page 36.

DINING

COFFEE MONSTER 149/7 Tambon Chang Phueak, 084-0369813. www.coffeemonster.co.th Set up as a co-working space and coffee shop, Coffee Monster has work areas, a meeting room, podcast studio plus free Wi-Fi. You can sit and relax with your coffee in the garden area or enjoy yourself at the game corner, which has pool and table tennis tables. The café serves up coffee, smoothies, cakes, as well as light meals like sandwiches, wraps and salads.

AKHA AMA

DOPPIO RISTR8TO

175/1 Ratchadamnoen Rd., 086-915-8600. www.akhaama.com Located close to the famous Wat Phra Singh, Akha Ama is a serious coffee venue complete with an in-vogue industrial interior. Using fresh coffee beans produced by the Akha hill tribe community in Mae Suay, Chiang Rai, the shop gives all the profits back to the community.

15/3 Nimmanhaemin Rd., 053-215-278. www.ristr8to-coffee-chiangmai.com Located at the opening of Nimmanhaemin Soi 3, Doppio Ristr8to offers impressive coffee thanks to owner Arnon “Tong” Thitiprasert, who won several coffee-making awards during his time living in Sydney. Tong ranked 6th at the last World Latte Art Championship, so you can’t really not order a hot latte—and do request a pretty pattern in your foam.

WEEKEND MARKETS

CHEZ MARCO

Shopaholics, welcome to heaven. Chiang Mai has not one, but two weekend markets to test your bargaining skills. On Saturday, from around 4pm onwards, Wualai Road is turned into a walking street as food hawkers and vendors set up their stalls. Local snacks, scarves, earrings, paintings—you name it, they’ve got it. Then on Sunday, the action shifts to the bigger and more crowded Thapae Walking Street, which stretches from Wat Phra Singha to

15/7 Loi Kroh Rd., 053-207-032. www.tinyurl.com/p9z8lya Owned by French-Japanese chef Marco, the restaurant offers a French and Mediterranean-inspired menu in a cozy setting with an outdoor terrace. Among the delectable dishes it offers are spaghetti with foie gras, beef Provençal stew and trout with almond butter sauce. There are also classic desserts and French wine available.

FARANG SES Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi, 51/4 Moo 1, Chiang Mai-Sankampaeng Road, 053-888-888. www.dharadhevi.com Specializing in modern French cuisine, it offers some of the finest gourmet dining in Chiang Mai. Headed by Chef Carlos Manuel Gaudencio, who holds a degree from France’s Lycee Hotelier de La Rochelle, the elegant restaurant offers impeccable and well-presented French dishes.

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GINGER & KAFE AT THE HOUSE

KALAPELA

KRUA PETCH DOI NGAM

PALLETTE RESTUARANT

199 Moonmuang Rd., Sriphum, 053-419-011/-12. www.thehousethailand.com Located next to a gift shop selling fashion accessories, the restaurant is furnished with velvet sofas and colorful cushions making for a comfortable, if elegant, atmosphere. It offers both Asian and Western menus covering everything from lamb shank slowly cooked with red wine and herbs to traditional fish and chips or Thai-style beef salad.

145/6 Ratchdamnoen Rd., 081-6342245. www.facebook.com/kalapelatea Kalapela is a shophouse-turned-tearoomcum-hotel-cum-wine-bar finished in a Lanna-meets-Zen style. The place is a peaceful retreat where you can choose to recline in the wooden high back chairs or log stools in the beautiful garden. Aiming to create a “living” museum in a contemporary style, Kalapela is full of antiques and art pieces that have been collected from travels all over the world, mostly from the East. It offers 80 teas from Japan, China, Singapore, Hong Kong and France. When night falls, Kalapela transforms into a wine and sake bar where you can drink till late.

125/3 Mahidol Rd., 053-204-517.

See Lanna Life, page 36.

137 Pillars House, 2 Nawatgate Soi 1, Watgate, 053-247-788. www.137pillarshouse.com The hundred-year-old Lanna-style teak house, once the residence of the director of the British East Borneo Company, is the centerpiece of this charming boutique resort. Dripping with colonial touches, this delightfully intimate spot showcases the work of local artists and serves up contemporary cuisine with Asian touches using local ingredients.

HUEN PENH RESTAURANT 112 Ratchamankha Rd., Phra Singh, 053-814-548.

See Lanna Life, page 36.

KAB KHAO BAN HAO

KANOMJEEN KHUNNAI MAE

51 Sirimangkhlachan Rd., 086-6567599, 088-2613057. http://on.fb.me/1ac8QN6 Though it almost looks too cute to be a serious restuarant, Kab Khao serves up authentic Northern cuisine. The menu contains a long list of lesser-heralded Northern dishes like hum jiin (braised beef in curry) and saa sadung (Northern beef salad). Don't miss the Ruam Khon Mueang, a delightful selection of Northern treats such as sai oa (Northern sausage), nam prik num (green chili paste) and cap moo (crispy pork skin).

Mahidol Road (next to Varee Chiang Mai School), 085-677-0558.

This kanomjeen (rice noodle) place sheds the old Lanna-style décor for a more modern, colorful vibe. A true house of rice noodles, it offers various types of nam ya (rice noodle curry) that range from traditional Northern recipes like the nam ngiew (curry with dried ngiew blossoms) to nam ya pu (crab curry). Their sides like khao soi, som tam (papaya salad) and pork satay are tempting, too.

LAM DUAN FAHAM Faham Road, 053-243-519.

See Lanna Life, Page 36.

LE COQ DOR 11 Koh Klang 2 Rd., Nong Hoi, 053141-555. www.lecoqdorchiangmai.com The longstanding restaurant has been around for over 30 years, serving up traditional European dishes like pan-fried foie gras, truffle soup and bouillabaisse.

Set in an elegant English-country style house, the restaurant also has a garden with a beautiful bandstand that plays host to live music every evening from 7-10pm, except Sundays.

LITTLE LANNA Nimmanhaemin Soi 7, Suthep.

082-388-3993.

The restaurant has a contemporary Lanna décor with details like wooden umbrellas and khit (triangle pillows), and features different styles of seating, from long benches to proper dining tables.

The menu offers both fusion fare such as Lanna gyoza, tempura nam and laab omlet and classics like khao soi with tofu and boiled egg. Tea, cocktails and tasty desserts like the fried banana with homemade ice-cream are also available.

NAKARA JARDIN 11 Charoenprathet 9, Chang Klan, 053818-977.

Tucked deep down a soi behind Ping Nakara Hotel, Nakara Jardin is a secret hideaway worth hunting out. The cute café offers home-style European dishes like braised lamb shanks with cumin and tomato or spaghetti with tiger prawns and Provençal tomato sauce. Dessert here is a must, too, particularly the raspberry and lemon curd or the hot chocolate fondant.

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SAENKHAM COFFEE 199/163 Clubhouse Ban Naifan 2, Maehia, 053-838-990.

After the success of their Saengkham Terrace restaurant, the management has now converted the first floor into a delightful new coffee shop. There are also handicrafts and pottery from hill tribes for sale and the occasional art exhibitions. Some 20 minutes’ drive from the city center, the views here are of scenic rice fields with the mountains as the backdrop.

SHANG GARDEN Shangri-La Hotel, 89/8 Chang Klan Rd., 053-253-888 ext. 6437.

Set in the sumptuous Shangri-La Hotel, the Shang Garden is an equally opulent eatery serving some of the best Chinese food in the city. Dark tones, a dramatic ceiling, crocodile skin covered booths and a view over the hotel’s lush garden all add to the mood. Or head to the chef’s table to watch Hong Kong chef Jacky Chan and his team hard at work conjuring up their signature dim sum dishes alongside other Cantonese classics.

TERRACES The Four Seasons Chiang Mai, Mae Rim-Samoeng Old Road, 053-298-181, www.fourseasons.com/chiangmai The open-air restaurant is set by the resort’s pool and provides a fantastic view of rice paddies and Doi Suthep. It offers an international menu, including Thai and Italian dishes like pizzas, pastas and salad. Go for its Sunday brunch, which has a good selection of buffet and main dishes and includes an option to enjoy free-flow wine, beer and martinis as well.

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TICHA TEAROOM

TICHA TEAROOM

16/1 Nimmanhaemin Soi 17, Soi Jumpee, Suthep, 092-269-2776.

Run by leading Thai spa brand HARNN, Ticha is a charming tearoom whose architecture and interior take its cues from the great cultural journey along the silk routes from Japan and China to Northern Persia.

There is also an outdoor dining area and second floor guesthouse.

MIXOLOGY

THE RESTAURANT Anantara Chiang Mai, 123-123/1 Charoen Prathet Rd., Changklan, 053-253-333. www.chiang-mai.anantara.com Set in a gorgeous 90-year-old British consulate house by the Mae Ping River, the restaurant offers a wonderful ambience with a waterfront view from its teak wood deck. Serving up a diverse range of food from Thai and Indian to tapas, it’s a great spot to enjoy a romantic meal.

NIGHTLIFE BEER REPUBLIC 28 Nimmanhaemin Soi 11, Suthep, 053-216-568. www.beerrepublicchiangmai.com One of most popular night spots in Chiang Mai, this cozy Tuscan-style bar offers a wide selection of beers with as many as 15 draft beer options. Apart from all the household names, Beer Republic offers up a bunch of more esoteric drops, such as Kostritzer Black Lager, Morland Old Speckled Hen and Weihenstephaner Vitus Weizen-Bock.

MIXOLOGY 61/6 Arak Rd., Phrasingha, 088-261-3057, 083-070-6190.

Offering a charmingly rustic ambience, its bare-brick walls, wooden tables and beautiful bric-a-brac really stand out. The drinks menu features various cocktails with interesting names like Love Me Love My Dog, Chiang Mai Chanee Berry and Lost in the Fruit Garden. The theme extends to the food, with offerings like the Chiang Mai Burger, which comes with a Northern-style laab patty made with rice.

MONKEY CLUB Nimmanhaemin Soi 9, Suthep, 053-226-997.

People-watching is the name of the game at this tried-and-tested watering hole. The outdoor area is decked out in a tropical garden style with an acoustic band playing softly in the background. Step inside and get ready to sweat, dance and monkey around with trendy local party animals and flight attendants while house bands serve up thumping pop/rock.

KAB KHAO BAN HAO

HEALTH & WELLNESS OASIS SPA 102 Sirimuangklajan Rd., Suthep, 053-92 0-111. See www.oasisspa.net for other branches.

One of the top spa groups in Thailand, Oasis has three branches in Chiang Mai. Equipped with Jacuzzi, outdoor showers and steam bath, it offers a full spa menu including scrub, wrap, body massage and facial treatments.

THE ARCH

THE DHEVA SPA

18, Nimmanhaemin Soi 11, Suthep, 081-783-5240.

This small bar draws in foot traffic through the brick arch gate at its entrance.

The drink menu is focused on whisky, particularly single malts. Expect all the famous names, including plenty of special editions. The atmosphere is quieter here as the clientele are mostly young professionals, as well as expats, looking for a more intimate place to hold court.

51/4 Chiang Mai-Sankampaeng Rd., Moo 1, Tasala, 053-888-888. www.dharadhevi.com Situated in the luxurious Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi resort, the Dheva Spa is a stunning recreation of a traditional Mandalay-style temple, decorated with replica moldings and sculptures. The spa offers European, Asian and North African treatments, as well as Indian Ayurveda programs and various yoga programs.

THE GOOD VIEW

THE RARINJINDA WELLNESS SPA

13 Charoenraj Rd., Wat Gate, 053-302764, 053-241-866. www.goodview.co.th For a relaxed, informal and seriously fun night out, wander down to the river and seek out the Good View. This Chiang Mai institution is a cavernous, semi-open-air bar-cum-restaurant-cum-live music venue that always seems to be bursting at the seams. Book early if you want to get a table out by the river.

14 Charoenraj Rd., Wat Kate, 053-247-000. www.rarinjinda.com Set in the boutique Rarinjinda resort, this spa offers a variety of treatments ranging from traditional Thai massage to aromatherapy and hydrotherapy. We recommend the slightly unusual 60-minute Splashy Vichy Massage, which sees your whole body massaged by warm jets of water from a series of showerheads.

THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS RESORT 502 Moo 1, Mae Rim-Samoeng Old Road, 053-298-190. www.fourseasons. com/chiangmai/spa With its luxe Lanna-style architecture, the award-winning spa has seven spacious private treatment suites, all equipped with outdoor showers, private herbal steam rooms and outdoor soaking tubs. Focusing on the use of organic Thai herbs, aromatic oils and quality products from England, the spa offers an extensive menu covering various body massages, facial treatments and yoga programs.

TAO GARDEN 274 Moo 7, Luang Nua, Doi Saket, 053-921-200. www.tao-garden.com Set amidst lush tropical greenery away from Chiang Mai’s city centre, Tao Garden is a health resort offering a variety of detox programs and spa options such as hydrotherapy, Ayurvedic and antiaging treatments in a tranquil setting. It also houses a clinic, which offers fasting, weight loss and stress relief programs.

The accommodation also offers beautiful views of Mae Kung Dam. WHERE GUEST B OOK

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THE RISE OF THAI CHEFS A new generation of locals is changing Bangkok’s dining scene.

CHEF ‘TAE’ AT LE DU

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N

ot so long ago, Bangkok’s restaurant scene was dominated by fivestar hotels serving traditional French and Italian food. Standalone restaurants never seemed to enjoy quite the same prestige as their luxurious hotel counterparts, and in-the-know foodies remained convinced that Thai food should only be eaten at home or on a sidewalk.

But in the past couple of years, dining out has undergone a bit of a revolution.

For one, the top Italian, French or pan-Mediterranean restaurants in this town are no longer in hotels. Most are even headed by chefs who are partners in the business, as opposed to hired guns. Secondly, the idea that a Thai restaurant can appeal to locals, and not just tourists, has gained wide acceptance. Tellingly, David Thompson closed his one-Michelin-star Nahm in London and moved it over to Bangkok.

“I think David was really an inspiration to chefs in Bangkok,” says Gaggan Anand, of progressive Indian restaurant Gaggan. “He showed the way for a new generation.” Gaggan placed third in San Pellegrino’s prestigious Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants this year, while Nahm did even better, scooping first place. In total, six Bangkok restaurants finished in the top 50, a clear signal that Bangkok’s dining scene is now being recognized on the global stage.

With the exception of Ian Kittichai (from Issaya Siamese Club) and Bo Songvisava (from Bo.lan), though, most of these chefs remain foreigners. But recently, that is changing. Late 2013 saw several openings headed by Thai chefs: Le Du, Rock and Sheepshank. For three exciting kitchens to open up back-to-back with the spotlight firmly on their local chefs marks a seismic shift in Bangkok’s dining scene. No longer is it obligatory to have Stefano or JeanMichel coming out to greet your guests.

“In the past, almost every chef in five-star hotels was foreign,” explains Chef Van Rohitratana of Escapade, who says the problem stems from the Thai perception that being a chef was a lowly profession. “I think the change started with Thai TV cooking shows in the early 2000s. They made it OK for parents to send their kids to culinary schools and some even sent them abroad.” Van also feels the 2008 financial crisis, which he believes led to a drop in the quality of food served by hotels, played a part. Young chefs were quick to spot an opportunity. Van says, “You had these kids coming back from studying abroad and they wanted to open their own standalone restaurants. You had a whole new generation starting to cook.”

In 2011, Thai restaurant Bo.Lan opened, headed by a Thai-Australian couple who had worked for David Thompson in London. Bo.lan’s Thai chef, Duongporn ‘Bo’ Songvisava, would go on to be named best female chef in Asia by Veuve Clicquot in 2013. Then local celebrity chef Ian Kittichai opened Issaya, serving authentic Thai food with slight tweaks in a gorgeous colonial-style villa. Not only was it becoming OK for Thais to be chefs, but Thais were willing to pay fine-dining prices for Thai food now that it was being made with locals in mind, not tourists.

ESSENTIALS Bo.Lan 42 Soi Phichaironnarong, Sukhmvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962-3. Open Tue-Sun Tue-Sun 6:30-11pm. www.bolan.co.th Escapade Burgers & Shakes 112 Phra Arthit Rd., 081-406-3773. Open Tue-Sun 4pm-midnight. www.facebook.com/ escapadeburgersandshakes Gaggan 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02-652-1700. Open daily 11:30am–3pm, 6–11:30pm. www.eatatgaggan.com Issaya Siamese Club 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chua Ploeng Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. www.issaya.com.

ISSAYA SIAMESE CLUB WHERE GUEST B OOK

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Another shift was just how experienced these chefs were. In fact, Le Du chefs Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn and Worathon “Tae” Udomchalotorn have the kind of resume that previously only belonged to foreign chefs leading Bangkok’s five-star hotel kitchens: they completed degrees from the highly-esteemed Culinary Institute of America (CIA) and worked in several Michelin-starred restaurants, such as the renowned Red Medicine in California, where Worathon worked as a Chef de Partie.

This may not sound unusual in Europe, where those who want to be a chef usually start their career at the age of 15 through vocational training and slowly work their way up. But in Thailand, many chefs-slash-restaurateurs were coming from privileged backgrounds, completing a culinary school degree, and opening their own place with dad’s money. Top chefs who had started out washing dishes, such as Ian Kittichai, were not the norm.

“Being a chef is hard, hard work,” says Chef Nan Bunyasaranand of gastrobar Little Beast, who started her career at 19 in a hotel kitchen in Bangkok. “All I did was chop onions for three months. I cried during the first week.

I came home and begged my parents to just send me to CIA right away as I didn’t want to just chop vegetables.

But luckily, they realized that being a chef is a long-term commitment.”

She was a trainee in three more restaurants before getting sent off to CIA, then worked at the prestigious Jean-Georges Restaurant (New York) and Thomas Keller (New York).

“Every aspect of the kitchen is vital, from peeling the grapes to differentiating white pepper from very white pepper,” Nan confirms.

Chef Nhoi Ouypornchaisakul, consultant of Rock restaurant, graduated from Johnson & Wales University in Colorado, USA, and worked in mostly French restaurants in the US for five years before coming back to Thailand to work in David Thompson’s Thai restaurant, Nahm.

She says, “Once I knew I wanted to cook, I realized that everyone has to pay their dues. I’ve had chefs throw dishes at me. I’ve been getting screamed at since I was a trainee.”

That’s not to say diners don’t still get hung up on the nationality of their chef. There was an outcry when David Thompson started cooking Thai food in Bangkok, and, similarly, foreign chefs are expected to be the best at foreign food. “When they see me, diners will go, ‘This is the chef?’” says Nan, of Little Beast. “Thais also love celebrities too

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much,” she adds. “If an actor or actress opens a restaurant, then he or she is called a chef. Or if someone graduates from a cooking school, puts on a sexy tank top and bakes a cake on YouTube, I think that’s very disrespectful of our profession. And it doesn’t push our food industry forward.”

According to Ian Kittichai, diners too need to show more respect. “Twenty percent of the customers in Bangkok don’t even call if they don’t show up for their reservation. For the food and restaurant scene here to grow and flourish, diners need to be more aware of and respect the effort and hard work of the restaurant staff.”

Despite these hiccups, diners have come a long way. As a reward, they’re now blessed with better restaurants, more choice and Thai cuisine that isn’t manipulated for tourists.

As a visitor, it’s also a definite improvement, as one gets to mingle among locals at restaurants, as opposed to being surrounded by fellow travelers. Ironically, the local scene has become so exciting, it’s now attracting big global chefs like Joel Robuchon, who is set to open a restaurant here in 2014.

There are also rumors of the Michelin guide handing out some stars to the city’s top venues soon. Assuredly, Bangkok has come a long way since the days when its most famous dining venues were street stalls.

ESSENTIALS Le Du 339/3 Silom Soi 7, 081-562-6464.

Open Mon-Fri 11:30am2:30pm, 6-11pm; Sat 6-11pm. www.ledubkk.com Little Beast 44/9-10 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2670. Open Tue-Sat 5:30pm-1am; Sun 11am-4pm.

Nahm Metropolitan Hotel, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open MonFri noon-2pm, 7-11pm, Sat-Sun 7-11pm. www.tinyurl.com/ l7py6wg Rock Restaurant & Bar 7/1 Paholyothin Soi 9, 082-688-8200. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight. www. tinyurl.com/ksgvpo4 Sheepshank 47 Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-5165. Open TueSun 6pm-midnight. www.sheepshankpublic house.com

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DINING Enjoy a memorable meal at the city's leading restaurants.

NAHM

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DOWNTOWN

ROCK RESTAURANT BAR

GAGGAN

661 SILOM Steak. Baan Silom, Silom Road, 02-2668661. Open Mon-Fri 11:30-1am; SatSun 5pm-1am. www.661silom.com The kitchen is headed by local chef Chatin Dienel, who has worked at Michelinstarred restaurants in Australia and London. Upstairs at Meat, you get a modern steakhouse dominated by cow skins and leather furniture. Downstairs, Meet has a Dom Perignon theme and gastro bites.

BLUE ELEPHANT Thai. 233 South Sathorn Rd., 02-6739353. BTS Surasak. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30–10:30pm.

The flagship branch of the globallyknown Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion, complete with a classic interior, where chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine.

D’SENS French. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10pm.

The French-imported eatery by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers offers all the oomph one might expect. The dining room has a great view of Lumphini Park, while the food is bold and exciting.

EAT ME International. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Road, 02-238-0931. Open daily 3pm-1am.

The décor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic, the kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection.

GAGGAN Indian. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02-6521700. Open daily 6pm-midnight.

See The Rise of Thai Chefs, page 44.

ISSAYA SIAMESE CLUB Thai. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Road, 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. www.issaya.com See The Rise of Thai Chefs, page 44.

JIM THOMPSON

LE BEAULIEU

Thai/Fusion. 149/4-6 Surawong Rd. Open daily 9am-4pm, 5-11pm. www.jimthompson.com This venue sports a modern Thai décor and serves Thai and fusion dishes like poh pia hed thod (spring rolls) and roast duck with kale sauce. The second floor features a lounge area serving cocktails.

French. G/F, Athénée Office Tower, 63 Wireless Rd., 02-168-8220-3. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 6:30–10pm. www.le-beaulieu.com Chef Herve Frerard cooks up hearty, rustic options alongside bistro classics like bouillabaisse and sole meunière. These simple dishes use high-quality ingredients imported direct from France or make the most of the chef’s involvement with the Royal Projects.

LA SCALA Italian. The Sukhothai, Sathorn Road, 02-344-8888. Open daily noon-3pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

Embellished with dark wood furniture, Buddha images and stylish lamps, the design is resolutely contemporary and Asian. The subtle, yet finely-tuned, ambiance is the ideal backdrop for the refined Italian cuisine.

LA VUE French. 25/F, Siam@Siam Hotel, 865 Rama 1 Rd., 02-217-3000. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 6:30-11pm.

La Vue boasts some of the most stunning views in the city while delivering solid French cuisine from a team led by Chef Gilles Poietevin, who used to work for Joel Robuchon. A rotating menu allows for repeat visits. They also boast an impressive selection of wine labels.

LE DU Thai. 339/3 Silom Soi 7, 081-562-6464.

Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm, Sat 6-11pm. www.ledubkk.com See The Rise of Thai Chefs, page 44.

NAHM Thai. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open Mon-Fri noon2pm, 7-11pm, Sat-Sun 7-11pm.

See The Rise of Thai Chefs, page 44.

ROCK RESTAURANT AND BAR Thai. 7/1 Paholyothin Soi 9, 082-6888200. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight.

See The Rise of Thai Chefs, page 44.

RUEN URAI Thai. Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd., 02266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm.

Set in an old Thai house decorated with rare Thai crafts, this charming venue offers a polished menu of solid Thai recipes that retain authentic flavors.

SENSI Italian. Narathiwas Soi 17, Yaek 5, 02-117-1618. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight. www.sensibangkok.com Located in a sizeable retro house down a quiet soi, the sleek and luxurious Italian restaurant has a polished but relaxed vibe with black and brown tones and a large wooden communal chef’s table in one corner. There’s lots to see with hands hard at work making bread, pasta and cheese, with some modern techniques thrown in for good measure.

SOMTUM DER Thai. 5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499.

Open daily 11am-10pm.

Bringing street food into a more comfortable setting that features arty touches and lots of blonde wood, the menu has a focus on somtam, a spicy Thai papaya salad, and other classic Northeastern (Isaan) dishes.

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SRA BUA Thai. Siam Kempinski Hotel, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. BTS Siam.

Open daily noon-11pm.

The sister of Michelin-starred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen offers Thai food with a molecular twist in a soaring, glittering palace dotted with lotus ponds.

ZUMA Japanese. G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-636-0002. BTS Ratchadamri. Open Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm.

The bar is made from a single, monumental slab of stone and the garden is air-conditioned. It’s all wonderfully glamorous and the salads and sushi are truly high class.

LOWER SUKHUMVIT 11 GALLERY Thai. 1/34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am.

Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes.

ABOVE ELEVEN Fusion. 32/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-9300.

Open daily 6pm-2am. www.aboveeleven.com The twist of this rooftop bar and restaurant, apart from a great city view, is a concept that focuses on Nikkei cuisine: a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors.

SEVEN SEAS RESTAURANT Seafood/European. Sukhumvit Soi 4, 02-656-7881. Open daily 12:30pm –1:30am.

You'll find a variety of tasty Thai, seafood and Western dishes in a cozy setting with a pleasant outdoor terrace. Recommended dishes include the tom yum soup and steamed pomfret in soy and ginger.

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BO.LAN

MAYA

THE LOCAL

BO.LAN

L’APPART

Thai. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm.

Chef and co-owner Can Markawat keeps the focus on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find traditional recipes. They’re all served in a hundred-year-old house.

They also run weekly cooking lessons.

Thai. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-2602962. Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pm-midnight. www.bolan.co.th Chefs Bo and Dylan offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a charming house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes to reflect the seasons.

French. 32/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sois 13 and 15), 02-126-9999. Open daily 5pmmidnight. www.sofitel.com Imagine a grand Parisian apartment, which means parquet floors, rich burgundy wallpaper and lots of marble. The food is French cuisine with Thai touches.

There’s also a full bar with a particular focus on Champagne cocktails.

UPPER SUKHUMVIT APPIA Italian. 20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-2612056. Open daily 6-11pm.

Jarret Wrisley of the popular Soul Food Mahanakorn teams up with Chef Paolo Vitaletti who is firmly committed to his family food principle: to create wonderful Roman-style pastas. Also, do expect a carefully curated wine selection.

BACCO Italian. 35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-662-4538. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-midnight.

This relaxed, slightly rustic eatery packs in the diners nightly, thanks to its menu of authentic regional specialities.

INDUS Indian. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-2584900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm.

An ambient spot with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual north Indian favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas.

ISAO Japanese. 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-2580645/6. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm.

Despite the standard izakaya facade, Isao offers something different—Japanese cuisine with American twists, thanks to the chef’s apprenticeship in Chicago.

LA BOTTEGA DI LUCA Italian. Terrace 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-204-1731. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am2:30pm, 5pm-midnight; Mon 5:30pmnoon.

A project of love for the well-traveled chef Luca Appino, this deli-cum-restaurant sticks to traditional recipes but stands out thanks to its distinct emphasis on fresh and, when possible, homemade ingredients. A range of authentic dishes takes you on a tour of Italy.

MAYA Indian. Holiday Inn Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-683-4704. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 6pm-1am. www.mayathailand.com Housed in a striking cantilevered structure on the roof of the Holiday Inn, this venue offers a choice of classic North Indian dishes, a cigar lounge and a DJ bar.

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NEAR EQUAL Thai. 22/2 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-258-1564/5. Open daily 11:30am3pm, 5:30-9:30pm.

Set in a quaint house down a lovely leafy street. Upstairs the wood floors and antique pieces make for a delightful spot to enjoy well-balanced Thai dishes; then head downstairs to browse the selection of Thai furniture and handicrafts.

QUINCE International. Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-6624478. Open daily 6-10pm. www.quincebangkok.com Quince goes for a casual and rustic ambiance that’s part industrial, part European country home. The kitchen’s focus is all about sustainability, ethical eating and local produce with down-to-earth home cooking and a menu that changes frequently.

SMITH International. 1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-261-0515. Open Tue-Sun 6pmmidnight.

Set in a former furniture warehouse, it’s decked out in an elegant industrial theme, with walls lined with butcher’s tools. Chef Peter Pitakwong’s menu focuses on two things: locally-sourced ingredients and nose-to-tail cooking.

THONGLOR/EKKAMAI LITTLE BEAST International. 44/9-10 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2670. Open Tue-Sun 5:30pm1am.

See The Rise of Thai Chefs, page 44.

OPPOSITE MESS HALL International. 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6330. Open Tue-Sun 7pmmidnight.

Chef Jess Barnes draws on both Mediterranean and Asian influences and focuses on local produce. The fuss-free nature of the place means dishes are often best eaten with your fingers and enjoyed with the homemade cocktails.

PASTE Thai. 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-3924313. Open Wed-Sun noon-2:30pm, Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. www.pastebangkok.com Run by chef couple Bongkoch Satongun and Jason Bailey, who take their inspiration from Thai royal cuisine. Everything here is homemade from locally-sourced ingredients completed with inventive techniques and artful presentation.

SALA RATTANAKOSIN

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PATARA Thai. 375 Thonglor Soi 19, 02-1852960/1. www.patarathailand.com Patara offers well presented dishes using quality ingredients in an elegant oriental setting. There’s an extensive menu of contemporary Thai cuisine, with dishes like hot and sour soup and baby lamb shank in panaeng sauce, and top quality service to boot.

PHUKET TOWN Thai. Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, 02-7149402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm.

Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional Southern-style dishes like kanom jeen namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw beans with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that features plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches.

SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN Thai. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-midnight.

Soul Food dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails, as well as a brief menu of well-executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect and the small venue is often packed.

RIVERSIDE BABBLE + RUM Thai/International. 1-2/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Arthit Rd., 02-633-5000, Open daily 6:30am-1am. www.rivasurya.com.

This riverside restaurant is clad in a French-café decor, finished with dark woods and leather couches. The food covers Thai, Asian and European, while the terrace makes for a chill dining spot.

CHON Thai. The Siam Hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd., Dusit, 02-206-6999. Free shuttle boat from Central Pier. Open daily 6am11pm. www.thesiamhotel.com Set in a beautiful Thai teak house overlooking the Chao Phraya River, Chon (“spoon” in Thai) is making a name for itself thanks to its authentic Thai food.

SALA RATTANAKOSIN Thai/Western. Soi Ta Tien, Maharat Road, 02-622-1388. Tha Tien Pier. Open daily 7am-10pm. www.salarattanakosin.com.

This stylish riverside venue is where to indulge in Western and Thai creations while you feast your eyes on Wat Arun.

SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

SHEEPSHANK

Thai. 160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (between Thonglor Soi 6 and 8). Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm.

Set in a three-story shophouse, this Thai restaurant offers a cozy yet chic décor.

The menu is based on what the owner’s grandmom used to cook—Thai food that borrows both from her hometown of Trat, and where the family now lives, Khon Kaen. Expect authentic and often rare dishes.

New American. 47 Phra Athit Rd., 02629-5165.Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. www.sheepshankpublichouse.com See The Rise of Thai Chefs, page 44.

STEVE CAFÉ & CUISINE

WATER LIBRARY

Thai. 68 Soi Sri Ayuthaya 21 (Wat Devarajkoonchon), Sri Ayuthaya Road, 02-281-0915. Open 11:30am-11pm. www.stevecafeandcuisine.com Located next to Thewet pier, Steve’s offers river views, a charming 60-year old wooden house, and Southern dishes.

International. Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, 02-714-9292/-3. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am.

A restaurant that serves a maximum of ten diners per night, with a 12-course set menu using the best ingredients prepared in front of you by an army of chefs. It’s very sophisticated, very sexy and while quite expensive, very memorable. There’s also a neighboring wine bar.

Thai/International. 36-38 Soi Pratu Nokyung, Maharat Road, 02-221-9158.

Tha Tien Pier. Open Mon-Thu 7am10pm, Fri-Sun 7am-11pm.

Book one of the spots on the second floor terrace and enjoy the view of Wat Arun across the river. The well-executed menu covers Thai and European dishes.

THE DECK

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RAISING THE BAR The best rooftop bars in Bangkok to drink in the view.

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R

ooftop bars, certainly not a new phenomenon in Bangkok, have become an indispensable part of any visit. Established favorites Moon Bar on the 61st floor of the Banyan Tree and Le Bua’s 63rdfloor Sky Bar (made even more famous by its starring role in The Hangover II) are legendary for their heart-stopping 60-something-story views of the scattered city lights.

While the appeal of these two and their views remain undimmed, they have been joined in the last couple of years by a host of new bars opening in an attempt to quench the city’s desire for a drink in the clouds. New venues now riff on themes varying from sexy tapas joints with verdant balconies to riverside spots with views over ancient temples.

Many of these new rooftop venues have moved away from the traditional locations around Silom and the river and are now springing up around the nightlife hotspot of Sukhumvit Soi 11. The laidback loungers and tropical beach club vibe of Nest atop the Fenix Hotel was the first to appear down this bustling soi, but it has now been joined by the distinct charms of Above Eleven in 2012 and, most recently, its sister venue Gramercy Park.

Both are found on top of the Fraser Suites, one sitting below the other.

Above Eleven has the twist of serving up Nikkei cuisine, a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian dishes, but most guests come for the striking views from the bar area. Meanwhile, Gramercy Park, perched just above it, takes its inspiration from the New York park of the same name and features vibrant furniture in a hip rooftop garden further brightened by graffiti created by local artists.

But it’s not just Soi 11 that’s embraced the penthouse concept. Venues all along the main Sukhumvit Road have taken to the skies—often attached to one of the many recently opened luxury hotels along this strip. Maya, located in a striking cantilevered structure on top of the Holiday Inn on the corner of Sukhumvit Soi 22, is one such newcomer. A contemporary Indian restaurant focusing on delicious North Indian dishes, it also offers a lounge complete with a DJ, elaborate bar snacks and creative cocktails, while serving up some amazing views as an added bonus.

ESSENTIALS Above Eleven 33/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083542-1111. Open daily 6pm-2am. www.aboveeleven.com Cloud 47 47/F, United Center, Silom Road, 091-889-9600. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight. http://tinyurl.com/oqtuekd Gramercy Park 35/F, Fraser Suites, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111.

Open daily 6pm-2am. http://tinyurl.com/p6tdu6f Heaven 17-19/F, Zen, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Road, 02-1009898. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.zensebangkok.com Maya 29/F, Holiday Inn Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-6834888. Open daily 6pm-1am. www.mayathailand.com Moon Bar 61/F, The Banyan Tree, 21 Sathorn Tai Rd., 02-679-1200.

Open daily 5pm-1am. http://tinyurl.com/btrpke2 Nest Rooftop/F, Le Fenix Hotel, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02255-0638/9. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am; Sat-Sun 6pm-3am. www.thenestbangkok.com

ABOVE ELEVEN

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SALA RATTANAKOSIN

A little further up the street, close to Soi Thong Lor (Sukhumvit 55), one of the most popular party streets for young Thais, the new venue Octave has made a big impression since it opened in late 2013. This multilevel rooftop bar and restaurant at the new Marriott Sukhumvit offers a stylish modern-industrial décor that’s accentuated by some pretty special views over Sukhumvit from the top deck, where the unimpeded vista can be enjoyed from the open bar in the middle.

It’s not the only new venue that is going for a multilevel approach. Heaven, which fully opened at the end of 2013 above cutting-edge department store Zen in the heart of downtown, has really taken things to another level. Spread over three floors, it starts with Zense restaurant, which covers Italian, Thai, Indian, Japanese and desserts. One floor above, you’ll find Shintori, a minimalist izakaya with Zen-inspired décor, classic Japanese dishes and a reservation-only outdoor terrace. Climb up another floor to reach Horizon, which has a big outdoor space and a more upbeat emphasis thanks to molecular cuisine-inspired cocktails and DJs spinning electro.

For a different perspective, try the places that have popped up along Silom Road. Opened two years ago on the 37th floor of the Pullman Hotel G, Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant, with a sleek industrial bistro decor and open air terrace, offers some great views over Sathorn Road, along with tapas options (they do also have a

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fine-dining menu designed by chef Manuel Martinez, of two-Michelin-star restaurant Le Relais Louis XIII) and pocket-friendly wine lists.

A little further up the road, closer to Lumpini Park, you’ll find one of the most recent roof top bars in town.

Formerly home to a temporary beer park, the roof of the United Centre has been transformed into a permanent bar. While Cloud 47 also claims to be a restaurant, we say skip the rather uninspired food and just enjoy the very Thai approach to a night out courtesy of gab glaem (bar snacks), live music and three-liter towers of beers.

Finally, further proof that the city is now awash with a broad range of rooftop venues can be found right next to the river in the historic old town area. While the rooftop at Sala Rattanakosin won’t even have vertigo sufferers breaking out in a sweat, it really is worth making the trek up the four floors (there’s no elevator) to get there.

The minimalist décor follows the hotel’s black and white palette while the location right in the heart of the old town means it boasts spectacular views. Kick back on one of the couches and you’ve got the prang (spire) of Wat Arun towering over you from across the river; turn your head and you’ve got the entire complex of Wat Pho in your line of sight. Both look just beautiful when lit up at night, while the well-mixed cocktails and breeze will ensure you have a very special al fresco evening.

HORIZONS

ESSENTIALS Octave 45/F, Marriott Bangkok Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000. Open daily 6pm-1am. http://tinyurl.com/kxpzgve Sala Rattanakosin 39 Soi Ta Tien, Maharaj Road.

Open daily 5pm-1am. www.salarattanakosin.com.

Sky Bar 63/F, The Dome at Lebua, 1055/42 Silom Rd., 02-6249555. Open daily 6pm-1am.

Scarlett Wine Bar and Restaurant 37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 02-238-1991.

Open daily 6pm-1am. http://tinyurl.com/o3cc6tm

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NIGHTLIFE From craft beer emporiums to sleek wine bars, Bangkok boasts an eclectic after-hours scene.

MAGGIE CHOO'S

WHERE GUEST B OOK

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MOOSE

DOWNTOWN AXIS & SPIN 38-39/F, The Continent Hotel, 413 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sukhumvit Soi 21-23), 02-686-7000. Open daily 6pm1am. http://tinyurl.com/ntak4oe Split over the two top floors of this centrally located hotel, Axis & Spin offers up striking panoramic views and combines vintage decoration with modern design.

Interesting cocktails and DJs, too.

CLOUD 47 47/F, United Center, Silom Road, 091-889-9600. www.facebook.com/thecloud47 See Raising the Bar, page 54.

FALABELLA Royal Bangkok Sports Club, 100 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-252-5131. www.falabellabangkok.com Located next to the city's most exclusive sports club, Fallabella is popular with young affluent Thai professionals and celebrities. With a fun but sophisticated vibe there's a choice between indoor and outdoor seating areas and a regular live band performing chill jazz and Thai-English songs. The restaurant serves up Italian dishes while the two-story Monkey Bar offers a good selection of cocktails.

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HORIZONS 19/F, Zen Department Store, Rama 1 Road, 02-101-0900. Open daily 5pm1am. www.horizonsbangkok.com.

See Raising the Bar, page 54.

ing entrance lights to the 24-meter dining table and even a swimming pool. But they all play second fiddle to the impressive view of Bangkok's skyline from the spacious open-air terrace.

HYDE & SEEK

MAGGIE CHOO’S

Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, 02-168-5152-3. BTS Phloen Chit.

Open daily 11-1am. www.hydeandseek.com Elevated pub grub, one of Bangkok’s best cocktail menus and a décor that conjures up a delightful blend of Victorian drawing room style and NYC sophistication make for a winning combination.

320 Silom Rd., next to Novotel Fenix Silom, 02-635-6055. Open daily 7pm2am. www.facebook.com/maggiechoos Quirky styling and surreal concepts like busts of Queen Victoria and a real-life noodle shop entrance help portray the story of a post-war Chinese lady, Maggie Choo, who opened a secret “speakeasy” bar in an old trading post’s bank vault.

KU DE TA­

MOON BAR

39-40/F, Sathorn Square Building, 98 North Sathorn Rd., 02-108-2005. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 6pm-midnight. www.kudeta.com This sophisticated setting offers city views and a host of outlets: an intriguing cocktail list at KU Bar; an Aztec temple-theme at The Club; a contemporary Japanese tavern at Izakaya; while Signature serves up modern Asian fine-dining.

61/F, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21 South Sathorn Rd., 02-679-1200.

Open daily 5pm-1am.

See Raising the Bar, page 54.

LONG TABLE 25/F, Column Building, 48 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-302-2557-9. Open daily 5pm-2am. www.longtablebangkok.com One of the funkiest spots around thanks to its striking opulence: from the glitter-

PARK SOCIETY 29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.tinyurl.com/q7ucfa8 For a real breath of fresh air and a park view, head up to the top floor of this trendy hotel. Inside is fine dining while the rooftop is all about potent cocktails, lounge tunes and a great view.

PARK SOCIETY

SCARLETT 37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 02-238-1991. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 6pm-1am. www. tinyurl.com/o3cc6tm.

See Raising the Bar, page 54.

SKY BAR 63/F, The Dome at Lebua. 1055/42 Silom Rd., 02-624-9555. Open daily 6pm-1am. www.lebua.com See Raising the Bar, page 54.

SUKHUMVIT SOI 11 ABOVE ELEVEN 33/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111. Open daily 6pm-2am. www.aboveeleven.com See Raising the Bar, page 54.

APOTEKA 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 090-626-7655.

Open Mon-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm2am; Sun 3pm-midnight.

Features a 19th-century apothecaryinspired décor and a cocktail list featuring “antidotes” like Penicilin and Mr. Hyde.

Regular live bands with a blues leaning.

GRAMERCY PARK 35/F, Fraser Suites, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111.

Open daily 6pm-2am.

See Raising the Bar, page 54.

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LEVELS 6/F, Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246. Open daily 9pm-3am. www.levelsclub.com Decked out with a huge LED chandelier above a circular bar and a bunch of monochrome sofas surrounding a sizeable dance floor, this cavernous venue aims for a rather swanky audio-visual clubbing experience.

NEST Rooftop of LeFenix Hotel, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255-0638/9. Open daily 4pm-2am. www.nestbangkok.com See Raising the Bar, page 54.­

Q BAR­ 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-3274.

Open daily 8pm-1am. www.qbarbangkok.com The Soi 11 institution delivers a heady mix of bass lines and international DJs downstairs but their 2nd floor, with a large outdoor patio, means it’s also a great spot to chill out with friends. Out back, Le Derriere serves up absinthe and oysters amidst a 1900s French decor.

THONGLOR/EKKAMAI BADMOTEL Next to J-Avenue, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-712-7288. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.facebook.com/badmotel.

This formerly abandoned three-story building has been repainted all in white and offers a glasshouse style ground floor, a sizable courtyard and a low-key rooftop. They also regularly play host to gigs and art shows making it popular with Bangkok's painfully hip.

IRON FAIRIES 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-8875. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. www.theironfairies.com.

Like no other bar in Bangkok, it actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies.

Yes, fairies. A great live band makes this place even more special.

MELLOW

WTF

1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am.

Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, moneyed locals, attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with its beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and decent cocktails.

7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246.

Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. www.wtfbangkok.com.

A collaboration between an art curator, a hip hotelier and a photojournalist, WTF is actually a hybrid bar and exhibition space that’s popular with Bangkok’s creative expats and local hipsters.

MIKKELER 26 Ekkamai Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 63 02-381-9891. Open daily 5pm-midnight. www.mikkellerbangkok.com Founded by the renowned 'gypsy' microbrewer from Denmark, this venue serves up a range of their unique and often limited edition craft beers in a modernmeets-rustic house-turned-bar.

MOOSE Ekkamai Soi 21, Sukhumvit Soi 63.

Open daily 5pm-1am. www.facebook.com/MooseBangkok.

This revamped space above vintage furniture store Y50 offers a no-frills yet undeniably cool ambience plus acoustic live music on weekdays that helps to draw in a very hip crowd.

MYST Rooftop, Grass Thonglor 12, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 080-770-9800. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. www.mystthonglor.com Set on the rooftop of Grass overlooking the bustling street, Myst serves Thai and Italian food but the real draw is the impressive selection of creative cocktails like Myst’s signature Marshmallow.

OCTAVE 45/F, Marriott Bangkok Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000. Open daily 6pm-1am. www.facebook.com/octavemarriott See Raising the Bar, page 54.

WINE REPUBLIC

LE DERRIERE, Q BAR

Thonglor Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7599. Open daily 5:30pm-1am. www. tinyurl.com/nlbxaay They take their vino seriously here, with a wall of bottles and informed staff to talk you through your purchase. The dark spit-and-sawdust interior and breezy outdoor terrace get very busy on weekends.

RIVERSIDE BAMBOO BAR G/F, The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000.

This venerable spot in this iconic hotel has been around forever but the music in the cosy L-shaped bar remains first rate and the drinks expertly poured.

SALA RATTANAKOSIN 39 Soi Tha Thien, Maharaj Road, 02-622-1388. Tha Thien Pier. Open Mon-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri-Sun 5pm-1am. www.salarattanakosin.com.

See Raising the Bar, page 54.

THREE SIXTY 32/F, Millennium Hilton, 123 Chareonnakorn Rd., 02-442-2000.

Open daily 5pm-1am. http://tinyurl. com/6qh8kpo Located inside the odd-looking UFOlike structure at the top of the Millennium Hilton, this bar offers a 360-degree view to die for. Catch a free boat across the river from Central Pier and head up to the 32nd floor to enjoy a glass of wine and a dose of easy-listening jazz.

VIVA & AVIV River City, 23 Yota Rd., 02-639-6305.

Si Phaya Pier. Open daily 11am-midnight. www.vivaaviv.com Fitting for its riverside location, this venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nautically-inspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive, well-made cocktails and bistro-style food.

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WELLNESS Relax, unwind and get pampered at Bangkok's leading spas and beauty clinics.

SO SPA, SOFITEL SO BANGKOK

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SPA

AWAY SPA 6/F, W Bangkok, North Sathorn Road, 02-344-4000 ext. 4160. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.wbangkok.com Beds glow softly in your choice of green, red, purple or pink, while the dim, labyrinthine halls induce an almost meditative mood. Treatments range from a one-hour aroma massage and detox to a four-hand mineral scrub and oil massage. Finally, the Style Lab offers mani, pedi and grooming services.

BHAWA SPA 83/27 Witthayu Soi 1, Wireless Road, 02-252-7988. Open daily 10am-11pm. www.bhawaspa.com This spa blends contemporary design, traditional touches and holistic treatments, from a precious stones detox to mind rejuvenation workshops.

BODY TUNE 2/F, Yada Bldg., 56 Silom Rd., 02-2384377. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 10am-midnight. More branches: www.bodytune.co.th The “menu” here is short, sweet and to the point: foot reflexology, hand, Thai and oil massage. But what they do, they do well. We prefer to visit the quieter Silom branch.

DEVARANA SPA Dusit Thani, 946 Rama IV Rd., 02-636-3596. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.devaranaspa.com The impressive white lobby has an almost heavenly quality, while the 14 individual spa rooms are little sanctuaries to enjoy a range of treatments from milk baths to body scrubs.

DIVANA VIRTUE SPA 120 North Sathorn Rd., 02-637-8883.

BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 9am11pm. www.divana-dvn.com Tucked down a small soi close to Silom, this spa is authentic yet homey. Situated in a century-old house, decked out in a traditional Rama V style, it sits among a small yet lush garden to create a very private and calming atmosphere.

I.SAWAN

DEVARANA SPA

ELEMIS SPA

I.SAWAN

MULBERRY SPA

15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Road, 02-207-7777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.stregis.com/bangkok The Elemis Spa is the brand’s first in Southeast Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the Arabian sauna in the Rassoul Chambers are highlights.

5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am-11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com With its chic design and its classy residential cottages and treatment bungalows, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a full fitness club with squash courts and pool.

132 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1888.

MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 9am11pm. More branches: www.mulberryspa.com Set in a 60s-style residential compound, Mulberry Spa offers the usual selection of treatments amid a classy-yet-cozy ambiance.

HEALTH LAND

LE SPA WITH L’OCCITANE

120 North Sathorn Rd., 02-637-8883.

Open daily 9am-11pm. More branches: www.healthlandspa.com Health Land has built its sizeable reputation on a blend of affordable prices, expert masseuses and select surroundings.

Lots of branches throughout town also helps.

9/F, Sofitel Bangkok, 189 Sukhumvit Rd., between Soi 13-15, 02-126-9999.

Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Nana. http://tinyurl.com/lmbgdnz Thailand’s first Le Spa with L’Occitane boasts a modern Thai style combined with elegant French touches. Treatments include the Golden Siamese Massage and Four Teas Ceremony.

I SPA 9/F, The Landmark Bangkok, 138 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-252-9444. BTS Nana. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.ispathailand.com The treatments offered at this modern spa sanctuary are based on therapies from China, India, Japan and Thailand, using five choices of essential oils based on Asian flowers and herbs.

OKURA SPA 25/F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Ploenchit Road, 02-687-9000. BTS Ploenchit. Open daily 10am-10pm. http://tinyurl.com/kdyc2ln Situated in a contemporary oriental space, guests can enjoy stress-relieving treatments in five relaxing treatment rooms. Try the signature Okura Take Relief bamboo massage where therapists roll a warm bamboo pole over your muscles as part of an aroma oil massage.

LET’S RELAX

PANPURI ORGANIC SPA

6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-662-6935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight.

More branches: www.letsrelaxspa.com With branches around Thailand, and a wide range of packages and trained masseuses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa.

Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Road, 02-656-1199. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.panpuri.com Hidden behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of this luxury spa.

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THANN SANCTUARY SPA 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Road, 02-656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.thann.info Their treatments use locally-made spa products and are offered within a tranquil space.

THE ORIENTAL SPA G/F, The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. http://tinyurl.com/q4h9oqz The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies.

TRIA

YUNOMO RI ONSEN & SPA

S MEDICAL SPA

SO SPA

2/2 Bhakdi Bldg., Wireless Road, 02-253-1010. BTS Ploenchit. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.smedspa.com.

Founded by a renowned local anti-aging physician, the award-winning spa serves up real beauty from within, with a selection of integrated wellness programs.

Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 Sathorn Nua Rd., 02-624-0000. www.sofitel-so-bangkok.com Perched on the 11th floor of the cuttingedge Sofitel So, it offers the added bonus of a relaxing view over the greenery of Lumphini Park, amid its own soothingly lit, forest-themed décor.

SIX SENSES SPA 30/F, Two Pacific Place, 142 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-653-2450. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Sat 7am-10pm, Sun 9am-6pm. www.sixsenses.com This famous hotel chain’s spa sports plenty of wood, for that natural connection, but also boasts great views. Treatments come with a consultation with the spa director to help you select the aesthetic and therapeutic options.

SOOK SABAI HEALTH MASSAGE 3-4/F, YJA Building, Rama 4 Road, 02-637-5575. Open daily 10am– 10.30pm. www.sooksabaispa.com Conveniently located, the FrenchIndochinese vintage-inspired spa offers a range of treatments from traditional Thai to Balinese massages.

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SPA BOTANICA 13/3 South Sathorn Rd., 02-23448900. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.sukhothai.com Surrounded by the lush gardens of the Sukothai Hotel, Spa Botanica is a true urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best of oriental massage options.

SPA@TONSON 5F, Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, 02-658-7980.

BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-9pm. www.spatonson.com This resort-style spa includes nine treatment rooms and utilizes ancient Asian healing techniques through a range of treatments.

998 Ronkhlongsamsen Rd., 02-660-2602. Open Mon-Fri 7am10pm. Closes Sat 9pm, Sun 8:30pm. www.triaintegrativewellness.com Tria is not just a spa: this sanctuary behind Piyavate Hospital is a rejuvenation center offering integrated programs. With over 50 treatment rooms, there are also hydrotherapy pools, a restaurant and residences for long-term stays.

URBAN RETREAT 31/10 Soi Phromjai, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-204-2008. Open daily 10am-10pm.

More branches: www.urbanretreatspa.net Urban Retreat’s various branches offer relaxing havens from the city bustle in the middle of town.

AESTHETIC CLINICS

APEX SKIN CENTER

3/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-644-8613/-4. BTS Phrom Phong.

Open daily 10am-9pm. More branches: www.apexskincenter.com If you’re trying to solve some skin issues, check out this well established and popular skin center for state-of-the-art treatments from Botox to micro-dermabrasion.

ASTER SPRING L/F, Gaysorn, Ratchadamri Road, 02-656-1421/2. BTS Chidlom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.asterspringthailand.com This international chain of skin care and health spas combines German techniques and products to provide effective facial and body treatments. The philosophy here is no-frills and no-nonsense, just good skin products that offer real results.

PUTTHARAKSA 1535 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-6336.

BTS Phrakhanong. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-9pm, Sun noon-6pm. www.puttharaksaclinic.com From non-invasive face lifts to the derma roller regeneration treatment, their aesthetic care is all about helping your body heal itself. Get further support through their anti-aging treatments.

YUNOMORI ONSEN & SPA A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-2595778. Open daily 10:30-midnight. www.yunomorionsen.com Bangkok’s first authentic onsen (hot spring bath house) features water sourced from a hot spring in Ranong, in Southern Thailand. As with traditional onsens in Japan, bathing is done in the nude, though there are separate baths for men and women.

APEX

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HOME GROWN DESIGN The rise of Thai fashion designers.

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B

angkok’s best kept secret may well be its topnotch, sophisticated local fashion. From edgy boutiques by established Thai designers at luxury malls to aspiring students hawking their creative concepts at Chatuchak Market, the sheer diversity and depth on offer can make a fashionista go weak at the knees.

Just one look at the hordes of smartly dressed office workers making the morning commute is enough to demonstrate that Bangkokians take their fashion trends seriously. This and a growing economy have combined to create a situation where local designers can flourish.

“Our fashion industry has a much higher dynamic these days,” confirms Potpat Asavaprapha, creative director of leading women’s wear design house Asava. “The emergence of a middle class whose income matches the prices of Thai designers has really helped develop this trend.”

Founder and lead designer of the popular Milin brand, Milin Yuvacharuskul, agrees that things have changed a lot in recent years, thanks in no small part to a growing awareness of global fashion influences and styles through the internet. “Thai girls now express their sense of fashion. They can share their own dynamic identity with anybody in the world. Some people used to question why Thai girls all dressed the same—that’s no longer the case.”

Things have clearly moved a long way from the mid-1980s when Thai designers like Somchai “Kai” Kaewthong were limited to creating cocktail gowns and wedding dresses for the city’s rich and famous. “Brands like Greyhound, Flynow and Soda were part of the first wave to introduce the concept of Thai designed ready-to-wear clothing. As a result, we now have lots of brands emerging each year,” says Potpat.

In the last five years, Thai designers like DA+PP, Sretsis and Disaya have even become famous globally, worn

by A List celebs such as Paris Hilton, Lily Allen and Agnes Deyn. At the same time, they’ve made the move from small boutiques to prime space in leading department stores like CentralWorld and Paragon.

The capital of Thai design would have to be the Siam Center, though. Reopened in January 2013, after a major multi-million baht renovation, the mall has reestablished itself as the beating heart of the local scene with its Fashion Visionary space, home to a who’s who of Thai fashion.

Not only is the Siam Center’s third floor devoted to the flagship boutiques of the top Thai designers but it also features numerous pop-up stores for smaller up and coming designers like The Only Son and Something Boudoir. It’s also where you’ll find The Selected, Wanderlust and Another Alternative, shops that curate emerging Thai talent and feature start up brands like the cool leather bags of Container and the funky swimwear of Timo.

“Having places like Siam Paragon, CentralWorld and Siam Center that feature zones for Thai designers not only helps to grow the scene but also makes the industry much stronger,” says Mollika Ruangkritya, owner of womenswear label Kloset.

ESSENTIALS Another Alternative 1/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Road, 02-658-1000.

Asava 1/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Road, 02-662-6526/7. http://tinyurl.com/ly2urml Common T Block 293/294, Soi 3, Section 2, Chatuchak Market, 02-615-8998.

DA+PP 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Road, 02-658-1000. www.da-pp.com Disaya 1/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Road, 02-690-1000. www.disaya.com Issue Siam Square Soi 3, Rama 1 Road, 02-658-4416. www.issue.co.th

ASAVA

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ISSUE

KLOSET

ESSENTIALS Kloset 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Road, 02-658-1000. www.klosetdesign.com Mango Mojito Siam Square Soi 2, Rama 1 Road, 081-585-3500, 083-220-1122.

Milin 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Road, 02-658-1000. www.milin.com Mosstories Siam Square Soi 2, Rama 1 Road, 02-658-3971. www.mosstories.com Perfect Combination Section 3, Chatuchak Weekend Market, 081-354-5390. http://tinyurl.com/lu7tpnl Rotsaniyom 59-61 Samsen Rd., Wat Samphraya. http://tinyurl.com/ mmmg95s Something Boudoir 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Road, 02-658-1000.

Sretsis 2/F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1125.

If it’s the new wave of local designs you’re after then you have to make a bee-line for the quirky Terminal 21 whose London and Tokyo-themed floors cover new men’s and women’s fashion.

Another hub for aspiring designers is Siam Square.

While it’s currently undergoing gentrification, you can still find enough little boutiques to make it worth a visit.

Pretty much anyone who’s anyone in Thai fashion design started out in the Square, and many big names like Issue and WWA retain flagship stores in the area. You can also browse the new generation at shops like Mango Mojito, Urface and Mosstories.

To make a visit even more appealing, every night at around 9pm students and young designers fill the streets to browse for bargains and sell clothing, accessories and more at the daily flea market. Indeed, it’s still the city’s markets that offer many a chance to show what they can do. “Thailand’s markets really act as a playground for new designers to get started,” confirms Mollika.

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Of course, the daddy of them all is still Chatuchak Market, which is open every weekend and has stalls selling everything from art to animals. Large sections of its tangled alleys are devoted to new and second-hand designer fashion. The best places to explore are both located close to the exit from MRT Kamphaengphet.

Across from the station steps, the wider avenues of Section 2 are home to long-time favorites like Perfect Combination (with its leather shoes, bags and accessories), Common T and Rotsaniyom (graphic-printed clothing).

Meanwhile, next door in Section 3 you’ll find the alleys packed with locally designed preppy menswear, girly blouses, vintage themed accessories and much more.

The sheer range of fashion items available at the market is just one of many signs demonstrating the breadth, depth and strength of Bangkok’s creative fashion community­—a city where you can literally find a designer on almost every street corner.

The Only Son 2/F Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1149. www.theonlyson.com The Selected 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Road, 02-658-1000.

Urface Siam Square Soi 10, Rama 1 Road, 081-432-1336. http://tinyurl.com/q557rtp Wanderlust 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Road, 090-981-9834. www.wanderlustbangkok. com WWA 3-4/F, 428 Siam Square Soi 7, Rama 1 Road, 02-6584686. www.wwa.co.th Zen @ CentralWorld Ratchadamri Road, 02-100-9999. www.zen.co.th

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SHOPPING From luxury malls to hectic markets, Bangkok is packed with retail delights.

CHATUCHAK MARKET

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SHOPPING CENTERS AMARIN PLAZA 496-502 Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-4704.

BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com The mall’s Greco-Roman façade actually hides some unexpected gems. ID1 on the first floor holds a collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs.

CENTRALWORLD Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Road, 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www.centralworld.co.th This massive complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000-sq-meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for high-street brands like Topshop, Gap and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites and also houses an Isetan Department Store.

CENTRAL CHIDLOM 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th Opened in 1973, it's the closest thing Bangkok has to Harrods, and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. It’s packed with leading brands, like Ralph Lauren, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the great views from the seventh-floor food court.

ERAWAN BANGKOK 494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com This mini-mall might look petite, but it offers high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including Comme des Garçons, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Lanvin and Alexander Wang.

GAYSORN 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1149. BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com Thailand’s leading high-end mall is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, and Fendi) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri.

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K VILLAGE Soi Sukhumvit 26, 02-258-9919/21. www.kvillagebangkok.com One of the city's first semi-alfresco community malls remains a popular spot among expats and locals who call the area home. It features a number of boutiques ranging from high-end pet stores to bespoke tailors, as well as lots of restaurants. One real draw is the monthly farmer's markets held on the last Sunday of the month.

MBK CENTER ­ 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www.mbk-center.co.th Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and all at bargain prices.

As a result,­the chaotic MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good quality. Still, it’s a lot of fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the sixth floor.

SIAM CENTER

PLATINUM FASHION MALL 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. www.platinumfashionmall.com Platinum is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashionrelated from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even single items come very cheap.

SIAM CENTER Rama 1 Road, 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamcenter.co.th Reopened after a major renovation, it offers new inspirational spaces for art and design, befitting its reputation at the vanguard of the local fashion scene.

The highlight is the Fashion Visionary space on the third floor, home to the flagship stores of top Thai designers and multi-Thai-label store The Selected.

RIVER CITY

SIAM DISCOVERY

SIAM PARAGON

Rama 1 Road, 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamdiscovery.co.th The sister mall of Siam Center celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul in 2011, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussaud’s wax museum.

991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamparagon.co.th With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like H&M and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a multi-screen cinema.

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TERMINAL 21 2-88 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888.

BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21.co.th Boasting an airport terminal-cuminternational destinations theme, the nine floors let you stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the upper floors offer intriguing boutiques

by Thai designers. There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema.

THE EMPORIUM 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www.emporiumthailand.com Set in the heart of an upscale residential area, The Emporium offers luxury shopping from brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Dior and Celine, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal and Jim Thompson. There are also lots of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative & Design Center on the top floor.

ZEN 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd., Pathumwan, 02-100-9999. BTS Siam/Chit Lom. www.zen.co.th Actually part of the sprawling CentralWorld complex, this trendy department store stands apart thanks to its focus on cutting-edge fashion, leading labels and high-end home decor.

MARKETS CHATUCHAK MARKET Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/ Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet.

Open Sat-Sun 10am-5pm.

Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is a vast weekend market. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections, roughly categorized by the products each section offers. You can literally spend days amid the warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers.

Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and

you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 10-24 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home-decor items.

TALAD ROD FAI (TRAIN MARKET) Sri Nakarin Soi 51, 081-827-5885.

The popular “Talad Rotfai” or train market has found its feet at its new location behind the Seacon Square Shopping Mall. Featuring a large number of vintage shops, cool bars with live music and food stalls in a retro setting, the massive weekend night market is packed with character and a hit with shoppers looking to find vintage items.

The market is open on Wednesday, and Friday to Sunday from about 6pm to midnight. Get the BTS to Udomsuk Station and then take a taxi.

RIVER CITY Yotha Road, 02-237-0077. Si Phraya Pier. www.therivercity.com.

Situated right on the river, the third and fourth floors of this mall are packed with boutique stores selling the very best in Thai and Southeast Asian art, antiques and artefacts. Once you’re done shopping, you can also take advantage of the collection of bars and restaurants on the ground floor, which offer great river views out on the terrace.

ASIATIQUE

RIVERSIDE ASIATIQUE 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-1084488. www.asiatiquethailand.com.

This evening-only (from 4pm) shopping center on the banks of the Chao Phraya River is themed according to the city’s old architecture. Divided into sections ranging from the waterfront to a 100year old refurbished sawmill, it includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashions and intriguing souvenirs, plus offers a variety of eateries and wine bars. Asiatique is also home to a large ferris wheel, Calypso Cabaret, Joe Louis puppet theater and the dramatic new show Muay Thai Live.

OP PLACE 30/1 Charoenkrung Soi 38, 02-266-0186.

Situated in a beautiful neoclassical-style building close to the river, this luxury mall oozes charm from the sweeping wooden staircase to the antique lift. It’s home to a host of high-end boutiques offering unique and rare antiques and artifacts from across Southeast Asia, handcrafted jewelry, bespoke tailors and fine art. There's also a free shuttle service to the nearby OP Garden, which houses art galleries, restaurants and high-end boutiques.

SIAM DISCOVERY

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ART AND ATTRACTTIONS From stunning temples and contemporary art galleries to fun days out for the kids to blow off steam.

WAT PHRA KAEO

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ART GALLERIES 100 TONSON GALLERY 100 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, 02-684-1527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com On top of its prime location, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists.

BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTRE 939 Rama I Rd., Pathumwan, 02-2146630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th The city’s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art-related shops in its impressive 11-story structure.

H GALLERY 201 Sathorn Soi 12, 081-310-4428.

BTS Surasak. Open Wed-Mon 10am6pm. www.hgallerybkk.com Set in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions representing emerging contemporary Asian artists.

KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY 87 Soi Pan, Silom Road, 02-234-6700.

BTS Chong Nonsi. Open Tue-Sun 11am-7pm. www.kathmandu-bkk.com A four-floor gallery, which includes a speciality book store, focused on promoting the work of established and upand-coming local photographers.

NATIONAL GALLERY 4 Chao Fah Rd., 02-282-2639-40.

Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www.national-gallery.go.th Housing traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century on. It’s old but features some interesting shows.

SERINDIA GALLERY O.P. Garden, Charoen Krung Soi 36, Charoenkrung Road, 02-238-6410.

Open Tue-Sun 11am-8pm. www.serindiagallery.com Run by the owner of a publishing company and housed in a colonial style former home, this beautiful gallery has regularly rotating exhibitions.

MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART

SILOM GALLERIA

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY

919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-266-5454. Mall is open daily 10am-8pm.

This large mall houses a range of modern galleries. Highlights include Tang Contemporary Art, covering modern Chinese art; and Thavibu Gallery, featuring Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists.

101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-281-5360/1. Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm.

The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes.

SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040.

Open daily 9am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www.sombatpermpoongallery.com Both a shop and a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai artworks.

THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC) 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8488. BTS Phrom Phong.

Open Tue-Sun 10:30am-9pm. www. tcdc.or.th Here, temporary exhibitions covering art, design and fashion are specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint.

V64 143/19 Chaengwattana Soi 1, Yaek 6, Bhangkhen. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.v64artstudio.com More than 60 artists from Chatuchak Weekend Market teamed up to transform a three-acre space into a large art center, which features studios, a gallery, an art academy, shop and restaurant.

WHITESPACE GALLERY 1 Sala Daeng Soi 1, 02-235-2500. MRT Lumphini. Open Wed-Sun noon-6pm.

Curated by talented contemporary Thai artist Maitree Siriboon, this gallery is a platform for young artists with more of an experimental, avant-garde leaning.

MUSEUMS JIM THOMPSON HOUSE 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium.

Open daily 9am-5pm. B100. www.jimthompsonhouse.com The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses brought here from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop.

MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART Bejajinda Building, Wiphawadi-Rangsit Road, 02-953-1005/7. Open 10am6pm (last entry 5:15pm), closed Sunday. www.mocabangkok.com A private museum funded by a telcom tycoon, this is Thailand’s first major permanent modern art collection. Situated on the outskirts of town, MOCA's works are mostly post-1990s, and are dominated by realist and surrealist depictions of rural life, religious Buddhist scenes and mythological motifs.

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MUSEUM SIAM 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-225-2777.

Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. B300. www.museumsiam.com This completely restored colonialstyle building is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels.

NATIONAL MUSEUM Na Phrathat Road, 02-215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. B50. www.nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous, if run down, property houses some of the most impressive architecture, art and antiques in the country.

SUAN PAKKAD PALACE Sri Ayudhya Road, 02-246-1775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am4pm. B100. www.suanpakkad.com This former royal household features eight Thai-style houses that showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period along with prehistoric relics.

CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS GRAND PALACE/ WAT PHRA KAEO Na Phra Lan Road, Tha Chang Pier.

Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. Free English tours at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm. B400.

One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture. Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace is Wat Phra Kaeo, home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. Also, don’t miss the exquisite mural wall paintings found lining the compound walls.

QUEEN SIRIKIT MUSEUM OF TEXTILES Ratsadakorn-bhibhathana Building, The Grand Palace, Na Phra Lan Road, 02-225-9420. Open daily 9am-4:30pm.

B150.

This museum tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand.

Highlights include the Queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading international designers.

RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL 100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-261-0044. Open Tue-Sun 10am7pm. Adults B100, children under 120cm free. www.nitasrattanakosin.com.

This converted 1930s-era building is now an exhibition space featuring interactive presentations depicting life in Thailand during the current Rattanakosin Era. The cafe on the top floor also has a nice view of the old town.

WAT ARUN (TEMPLE OF DAWN) Arunamarin Road, Wat Arun Pier.

Open daily 8:30am-5pm.

On the river’s edge, the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmer-style tower) is decorated with millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means “morning” and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank.

GRAND PALACE

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WAT PHO Sanamchai Road, Phra Nakhon.

02-225-4771, Tha Thien Pier. Open daily 8am-6pm. B100. www.watpomassage.com Famous as both the home of the 46-meter-long reclining Buddha and as a center of traditional Thai massage, it even offers courses to learn for yourself.

WAT TRAIMIT WITTAYARAM Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm.

Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the informative Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center.

star-studded line up of incredibly lifelike movie stars, politicians and sports figures drawn from all over the world.

SIAM OCEAN WORLD Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Road, 02-687-2000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm. B900 for adults, B700 for children.

Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. Highlights include the underwater tunnel, penguin enclosure and the glass bottom boat tour.

KIDS FUNARIUM

ATTRACTIONS ART IN PARADISE BANGKOK 4/F, The Esplanade Mall, 99 Ratchadapisek Rd., 02-660-9130. MRT Thailand Cultural Center. Open daily 10am-10pm (last entry 9pm). B300. www.facebook.com/artinparadisebangkok This three-dimensional art museum officially opened in Bangkok this year.

Created by 13 Korean artists, the art exhibited at the museum is presented in a 3D trompe l'oeils, allowing viewers to complete the various dramatic scenarios by posing for photos.

FLOW HOUSE A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-1085210. Open Sun-Thu 8am-11pm; FriSat 8am-midnight. Prices from B550 per hour. www.flowhousebangkok.com Flow House offers the chance to go surfing in the city thanks to a special machine that offers a similar experience to riding a real wave. It also features a bar, restaurant and shop specializing in water sports gear. Lessons available, prices cover board hire, showers and towels

MADAME TUSSAUDS 6/F, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama I Rd., 02-658-0060. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-9pm. Tickets B800 adults, B600 children over 5. www.madametussauds.com/bangkok The famous wax work museum has made it to Bangkok and features a

111/1 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-6656555. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, Fri-Sun 8:30am-8:30pm. B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults. Socks required. www.funarium.co.th This giant indoor soft play area provides painting, crafts, bike riding, roller blading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas, ensuring there’s plenty for the kids to do.

KIDZOONA 5/F, Gateway Mall Ekkamai, 02-1082650/-52. BTS Ekkamai. Open daily 10am-9pm. B180-B330 for kids and B90 for adults. Socks required.

Actually split into two main sections, Molly’s Gateway is a big arcade, while Kidzoona offers giant inflatables, a big ball pit and the chance for children to dress up as builders, firemen, chefs and more in Papertown.

PLAYTIME 3-4/F, Parklane Ekkamai, opposite Ekkamai Soi 2, 02-382-0077. Open Mon-Thu 9am-6pm, Fri-Sun 9am7:30pm. B210-350 for kids and B110 for adults. www.playtime.co.th Located on the third floor of upscale mall Parklane, it's dominated by a large play-gym area. There’s also a separate space for toddlers, a sandpit, ice skating rink, climbing wall, electric car track and a cafe upstairs.

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Where

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NEIGHBORHOODS Discover Bangkok’s diversity in these eight colorful districts.

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RATTANAKOSIN The ancient center of Bangkok since the Rattanakosin Kingdom established the new capital in 1782, this neighborhood is surrounded by the Chao Phraya River and klongs (canals) which originally served as a means of defense. These days it retains its historic roots and sleepy atmosphere and is where you’ll find some of the city’s most spectacular attractions and religious sites. The highlight is, of course, the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew complex whose gleaming spires dominate the skyline. But there are also leafy streets lined with charming traditional shophouses, chaotic flower markets, ancient forts and delightful restaurants, not to mention the more infamous sights and sounds of Khao San Road, making it one of the most popular destinations in Bangkok.

PHRASUMEN FORT, PHRA ATHIT ROAD

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SILOM One of the main business centers for the city, this neighborhood has a Jekyll and Hyde personality. By day busy office workers gather to sample the enormous feast of food stalls, while street vendors hawk their wares amid the traffic jams. At night the streets become even more jammed with ad hoc markets that seem to spring up in an instant and fill every available space, while night crawlers come to revel in some of the city’s most notorious bars. But there’s also a more refined side to the neighborhood thanks to a growing number of high-end hotels and restaurants and a genuine charm to be found by exploring some of the quieter side streets that conceal hidden gems like vibrant Hindu temples, brightly colored mosques and shophouses that have been transformed into cafes and art galleries. It’s a neighborhood that can bemuse but also appeal thanks to its multiple contradictions.

BTS SALA DAENG, SILOM ROAD

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CHINATOWN Bangkok, and indeed Thailand in general, is home to a large Chinese population who began immigrating to the capital of Siam since the very start of the Rattanakosin period. Many ended up settling in and around Yaowarat Road, which is now the beating heart of the city’s vibrant and exciting Chinatown.

One of Bangkok’s oldest neighborhoods, it’s home to countless gold stores, traditional coffee shops, incense-shrouded temples and numerous old-school Chinese restaurants. While wandering the neighborhood and soaking up the unique atmosphere, don’t miss the chance to explore the cramped and winding Sampheng Lane, a wonderfully chaotic wholesale market whose narrow alleys sell everything you could possibly imagine and make for an extremely photogenic shopping expedition.

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ODEON CIRCLE

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SUKHUMVIT Sukhumvit Road is a major artery of Bangkok, helped by the fact that one of the main BTS lines runs down its center, making it extremely easy to get around. As a result, the middle section of Sukhumvit, from the nightlife hotspots of Nana and Sukhumvit Soi 11 up to the edge of Thong Lor, has proved an incredibly popular area for many locals and expatriates to live, work and play.

Numerous side streets (soi) offer up the chance for exploration and are treasure troves for everything from high-end tailors to cute cafes and neighborhood trattorias to serene spas that feel a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of downtown Bangkok.

CABOCHON HOTEL, SUKHUMVIT SOI 45

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SKYWALK, GAYSORN PLAZA

PHLOENCHIT Bangkok’s answer to London’s Knightbridge or New York’s Upper East Side, Phloenchit is where wealthy locals and wellheeled expats call home. Amid the high-end condominiums and towering office blocks, this is also where you’ll find leading luxury hotels and the city’s largest downtown green space in the form of the wonderful oasis that is Lumpini. As a result, the upmarket neighborhood is also well stocked with trendy bars, classy delis, stylish bistros and boutiques selling the very best designer brands from all over the world.

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SCALA CINEMA, SIAM SQUARE

SIAM With the main BTS station surrounded by gleaming malls and teen-haven Siam Square, bustling Siam is a veritable shoppers’ paradise. You can find everything from the leading luxury designer brands to IMAX cinemas and five-star hotels to a massive aquarium. But you can also glimpse the long history of the area with a visit to the art deco delights of the Scala Cinema, learn more about Thailand’s art scene with a visit to the Bangkok Art and Culture Center, haggle for bargains at the charmingly ramshackle Pratunam market or discover the designers of the future with a stroll through the student-filled streets of the trendy Siam Square.

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Thailand’s premier information source for visitors is also available online

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

Magazine is one of the world’s most trusted brands. has been publishing guidebooks, magazines and maps for more than 75 years.

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THONGLOR/EKKAMAI Formerly a quiet residential area, these two long streets and the numerous sois that wind off the normally traffic-choked main drags are now nightlife central for hordes of well-heeled young locals. At night they flock here in their finery and fancy cars to see, be seen and party hard. It means you have a dizzying array of choice when it comes to restaurants, bars and clubs. Whether you want to experience some authentic sushi in a traditional Japanese-style tavern (izakaya), relax with a coffee in the garden of a retro-themed former home, try potent cocktails at a fantastical fairy-inspired bar or dine on cutting-edge molelcular cuisine, this neighborhood will have something to suit you.

BAD MOTEL, SUKHUMVIT SOI 55

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