WHERE Guestbook Thailand 2015

THAILAND

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LAND OF SMILES Welcome to the 2015-2016 edition of Where Guestbook Thailand. While some things in the Kingdom remain blissfully unchanged—the pristine beaches, the year-round warm waters, the centuries-old Buddhist monasteries and royal palaces—other things move at a rapid pace, and the past year is no exception.

Some much-welcome trends have swept the country, and nowhere is that more evident than in Bangkok. Over the past 12 months, dining in the capital has boomed (see page 44). Whether you’re looking for cutting-edge Thai dining experiences, heritage flavors preserved with meticulous attention to detail, easygoing comfort food with friends, or the pinnacle of internation-

al fine-dining, you’re bound to find it here, with many of the city’s top restaurants causing buzz across the region—and even on the global stage.

Meanwhile, down in the South, people are awakening to the laidback charms of Phuket’s once-overshadowed eastern coastline (see page 30), where the arrival of chic new resorts and regeneration efforts in the old town are bringing a new level of culture to the Andaman island. If that’s not your thing, head on over to Koh Samui on the Gulf Coast, where hard-partying locals, fun-loving tourists and big-name DJs are bringing a new level of energy to the beach club party scene (see page 22).

Or simply head up North to chill out in Thailand’s ancient Lanna capital, Chiang Mai. Here, locals have been channeling their love of all things slow-life into producing one of the best coffee culture scenes in all of Southeast Asia (see page 37). The single-origin slow-drips coming out of Chiang Mai’s cafes are just the fuel for exploring the region’s many treasures, from hilltribe communities to intrepid mountain trails.

We look forward to guiding your travels with this essential list of things to do, places to visit and experiences that simply can’t be missed while you’re in Thailand.

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Contents

THAI ESSENCE 10 FIRST LOOK A whistle-stop tour of the Kingdom's main regions.

44 BANGKOK'S FINE-DINING EXPLOSION Local and international tastemakers transform the city's restaurant scene.

22 ENDLESS SUMMER Sleek beach clubs, high-end resorts and international DJs make Koh Samui a sophisticated party haven.

30 ORIENTAL COOL Head to Phuket's eastern shore to discover the island's top spots for fine dining and local flavors.

37 SMELL THE COFFEE Meet the baristas, roasters and growers turning Chiang Mai into a global capital of coffee culture.

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BEYOND BOOZE How a new wave of galleries and bars is turning Bangkok's historic Chinatown into nightlife central.

57 GOING LOCAL Thailand's hot young design talent embraces traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge results.

The Grand Palace at night.

Photography Nattaphon Phanpongsanon

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Contents THAI ESSENTIALS AROUND THAILAND

AROUND BANGKOK

25 SAMUI

46 DINING

From temples to fine dining, make the most of this island escape.

33 PHUKET

Enjoy a meal to remember at the city’s leading restaurants.

54 NIGHTLIFE

Where to go and what to do on the Pearl of the Andaman.

40 CHIANG MAI

Wine bars, nightclubs, live music venues and much more.

60 SHOPPING

The very best that the Northern capital has to offer.

From luxury malls to sprawling markets.

62 WELLNESS Relax at these top-notch spas and salons.

64 SIGHTS & ATTRACTIONS Galleries and museums to inspire the imagination.

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FIRST LOOK From the chilly, forest-clad hills of the North to the steamy island idylls that dot the Andaman Sea, the ancient temples of Isaan to the bustling modernity of Bangkok, Thailand is truly the dream travel destination. Rich in culture, history and tradition, and blessed with areas of staggering natural beauty, it really does offer something for every visitor. Swim with whale sharks in the warm blue waters of the Gulf of Thailand, experience the colorful sight of monks receiving alms in the morning mist of Pai, watch the sun rise over Chiang Mai from Wat Phra That Doi Suthep or haggle for bargains in the chaotic weekend market at Chatuchak. The options are seemingly endless.

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WAT ARUN The Temple of Dawn, or Wat Arun, on the Thonburi bank of the Chao Phraya River, has existed a lot longer than the city of Bangkok. Built in the time of the Ayutthaya Kingdom (13511767), the Buddhist temple only became part of the capital city after Ayutthaya was razed by the Burmese and King Taksin established his new capital in Thonburi (circa 1768). Today, Wat Arun is undergoing renovation work, but still welcomes tourists and locals to scale its perilously steep steps decorated every inch of the way in ornate carvings and mosaic work typical of Thailand’s central region.

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DAMNOEN SADUAK FLOATING MARKET Every day is market day on the khlongs (that’s Thai for canals) of this legendary town just outside Bangkok. Experience for real those scenes from movies of narrow rowing boats peddling their wares along the ancient waterways which earned Bangkok its nickname ‘Venice of the East.’ Today, the floating market is still a hive of activity for Thais as well as tourists, and makes the perfect place to stock up on fresh fruit and veg among trading locals, or sample delicious Thai delicacies from coconut desserts to the local tea, cha yen. Our tip: get your boat to break away from the market to explore the peaceful, residential canals that surround it.

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ROOFTOP BARS Bangkok’s sky-high rooftop bars have become as much of a city institution as tuktuks and street food. These amazing spaces, usually perched on the very top of lavish five-star hotels, let you escape the heat with a cocktail in hand while enjoying jaw-dropping views of the city. One of the newest, Octave at Marriott Bangkok Sukhumvit, has stolen the limelight recently thanks to three tiers of chilled lounge music, inventive cocktails, and a spectacular 360-degree observation deck. Closer to the city center, we also love Red Sky at Centara Grand (pictured here), where the incredible views are framed by swooping, red-lit arches.

RED SKY

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NORTHERN MOUNTAINS In Bangkok’s best restaurants, you’ll regularly hear about food sourced from the Royal Projects. King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s initiative to grow low-yield, high-value crops from Europe started right here, on the spectacular, temperate-climate slopes of Doi Angkhang. One of the highest points in the entire country is now the setting to many a romantic scene from Thai movies, thanks to gardens of Japanese sakura cherry blossom and picture-perfect fields of pears, peaches, strawberries, persimmon, pomegranate and blueberries. The sight of Northeastern Thailand’s hill tribe people tilling these fields in their indigenous dress is not to be missed.

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SOUTHERN ISLANDS Just a short way off the coast of Samui, the archipelago of Ang Thong Marine Park contains over 40 of Thailand’s most pristine, picture-postcard islands. All of them bar one are completely uninhabited, while Koh Puluay is home to the Gulf of Thailand’s indigenous sea gypsies. The protected national park is accessible only by boat from Koh Samui, but once you’re there, plays host to any number of adventurous pursuits, from snorkeling in pristine waters to traversing dense rainforest to kayaking in turquoise lagoons. For the intrepid, there’s also a 430-meter climb to the top of Wua Tallap island for incredible views of the whole archipelago.

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PHUKET TOWN There has never been a better time to visit Phuket’s old quarter. The electricity and phone cables which used to mask the beautiful Sino-Portuguese shop-houses have now been hidden out of sight to reveal the beauty of this unique architectural heritage site. Not only that, but the town’s old Chinese communities—mostly Hokkien—have come together to embrace their Baba Nonya roots, a rich culture in Phuket and Penang where Chinese heritage, colonial influence and indigenous traditions combine. This heady mix is attracting an ever-growing number of galleries and cafes to the town center, and has even given birth to a beautiful new walking street fair.

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ENDLESS SUMMER Sunset drinks, bubbly brunches and feverish club nights, Samui is raising the bar for seaside entertainment. By Monruedee Jansuttipan

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ARK BAR

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T

he paradise island of Koh Samui has become a haven for those looking to unwind cocktail in hand, driven by sleek beach clubs, high-end resorts and international DJs dropping in to play at the booming beach club and bar scene. While the south of Thailand’s notorious nightlife spectacle, the Full Moon Party, happens on the neighboring island of Koh Phangan, Koh Samui’s party scene is infinitely more varied and sophisticated.

“Samui’s greatest charm is its beach parties and the great DJs who spin tunes every night,” says Nakadia, a Thai DJ who kick-started her career on Koh Samui and now performs all over the world. In Feb 2015, she teamed up with DJ Sven Väth, the German DJ/producer who instigated the legendary Cocoon parties in Ibiza, to play to more than a thousand clubbers on Chaweng Beach. “The island has everything. There are abundant tropical attractions, great restaurants and a buzzing nightlife scene that lets you party outdoors.

It’s like a never-ending summer.

‘Mr. X’, the manager of one of Chaweng’s most heaving party spots, the Ark Bar beach club, makes a comparison between Ibiza in the early 2000s and Samui today. “Ibiza set the trend in Europe for island beach clubbing. Samui, particularly Chaweng, is gaining a similar reputation in Asia,” he says. “Partying in the sand right by the sea beats any of the big cities.”

The trend has not gone unnoticed by top international hotels. Starwood’s W Retreat Koh Samui recently appointed its first ever director of atmosphere, the New York-based DJ and producer Kelly Kellam, to oversee its ultra-cool Woo Bar. “This part of Southeast Asia is opening up and becoming more of a destination in general,” says Kellam. “Places like Samui, Koh Phangan, Bali and Singapore are all seeing many more top-tier international DJs coming through. You also don’t need to wait for the ‘curtain’ days here. It’s an all-yearlong summer, with nightlife pumping every night of the week. Monday can be as busy as Saturday.”

So where should you go to party when in Samui? For a chic, laidback evening, Woo Bar can’t be topped. It’s the most luxurious spot on the island and the perfect place to start the night with a quality cocktail as the sun goes down. There’s a different happy hour every night of the week (though Thursday is our pick for the special promo on all-you-can-drink mojitos), the views are stunning and W’s edgy decor has a party vibe of its own.

If you’re looking to start early, Nikki Beach on Lipa Noi Beach, on the island’s west side, is famous for its boozy Sunday brunches. The global party brand began in Miami and now has a worldwide reputation for beach parties filled with bikini clad models and shirtless hunks. After first opening on Samui in 2009, it has established itself as one of the island’s hottest places to party, thanks to the spacious free-form swimming pool, slick looks and non-stop music.

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CHA CHA MOON

NIKKI BEACH

Other Sunday brunch contenders are Beach Republic, a popular choice among expats on the less-secluded Lamai Beach, and Sound Hotel on Chaweng, which pulls in a younger, hard-partying crowd.

For a music-fuelled beach party, Ark Bar is the center of nightlife on Chaweng’s sands. Partygoers start heading there from late afternoon onwards to play in the pool, before moving to the beach to dance to EDM (electronic dance music) tunes. Come nightfall, Ark Bar does its own mini impression of a full moon party—only a much cleaner version. On the same beach, Cha Cha Moon has a reputation for pulling in the island’s best DJs, who keep the party going till sunrise. “I love Cha Cha Moon,” says Nakadia, one of their regular DJs. “It’s the only place that crafts their playlists well while bringing in a mix of international DJs.” The later the night gets, the more the party scene heats up.

“I will start at Ark Bar,” says Attaphol Pholpala, a long-time Samui resident and owner of Kirati Resort. “It’s like a Samui signature, where you can go and start partying right away.

Then I will head to Green Mango to dance till it closes.”

Green Mango is one of a number of clubs located on the beach road behind Chaweng, serving pop and EDM tunes, along with its sister venue Sweet Soul. “I’d recommend this triangle of clubs around Bar Solo for the seven-nights-aweek party crowd,” says Dede Srisukhon, the owner of Cha Cha Moon. Bar Solo has one of the best reputations on the island for clubbing, and once the clock hits 2am, you can hardly find space to dance. In February this year, legendary British DJ Goldie dropped by to play a set, while Leeroy Thornhill of the Prodigy played in March.

“Samui has something for everyone,” says DJ Simon Solo, the British national who founded Bar Solo five years ago. “There’s the opportunity to drink, dance, party with every walk of life here. There could be hotel staff from Samui dancing next to a lawyer from London—everyone’s here and everyone’s having a good time.”

Cha Cha Moon’s Dede Srisukhon agrees. “People from all over the world meet on the dance floor and feel connected by the music—it’s a global language that everybody understands. Samui feels like an endless summer, and that’s what everybody deserves on their holiday.”

ESSENTIALS HOTEL PROPERTIES WOO BAR W Hotel 4/1 Moo 1, Maenam, 080-065-6821, 077-915-999 Beach Republic 176/34 Moo 4, Maret, 077-458-100, www. beachrepublic.com Nikki Beach 96/3 Moo 2, Lipa Noi 077-914-510, www. nikkibeachthailand.com Sound Hotel 168/7 Moo 2, Bophut, 077-914-100, www. soundhotelsamui.com Ark Bar 159/89 Moo 2, Bophut 077-961-333. Open daily 2pm-2am. www.ark-bar.com STANDALONE CLUBS Solo Bar 166/5 Moo 2, Bophut 077-414-012, Open daily 2pm-2am. www. barsolosamui.com Cha Cha Moon Soi Green Mango, Chawaeng Beach, 089-651-7777, Open daily 8pm-2am. www.fb.com/ chachamoonbeachclub Green Mango Soi Green Mango, Chawaeng Beach. Open daily 6pm-2am. www. thegreenmangoclub.com Sweet Soul Soi Green Mango, Chawaeng Beach. Open daily 6pm-2am. www.thegreenmangoclub. com/sweet-soul

KOH BEACH REPUBLIC

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SAMUI The best things to see, do and enjoy on this island escape.

CONRAD KOH SAMUI

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ATTRACTIONS

ANGTHONG MARINE PARK Only 20km northwest of Samui, this marine national park covers 102 sq kilometers and contains over 40 beautiful islands.

The two main highlights are Koh Mae Koh (Mother Island) where you can see a lagoon encircled by cliffs, and Koh Wua Ta Lub (Sleeping Cow Island) where you can choose to either chill on the beach or trek to the hilltop for a superb view. Note the park is closed annually Nov 1-30. Call the Samui Tourist Information Center on 077-420-504 for more information.

HIN TA HIN YAI Forget the sex museums of Europe, this is truly au naturel. Hin Ta is a rock pillar that looks like a penis and Hin Yai is a rock that looks like a vagina (you need a bit of imagination on this one). On the way back, stop for some kalamae, a local candy. B20 parking fee and free entry.

NA MUANG WATERFALLS Set in thick tropical rainforest, the two cascades of Na Muang are most dramatic after the rainy season or between Sep-Mar. Accessible by car, Na Muang 1 is 18 meters tall and has a natural pool for swimming, while the 80-meter-tall Na Muang 2 is more picturesque but does involve a 30-minute hike to get there, though it is well worth it.

WALKING STREETS There now seems to be a night market almost every day of the week. Our favorite is the Friday Bophut walking street, stretching along the entire Fisherman’s Village Street where wooden shop-houses are home to cool restaurants, cafes, shops and guesthouses. Street vendors sell everything from food and cooking ingredients to souvenirs made from coconuts.

Maenam walking street is also great for cheap eats and takes place every Thursday, 5-10pm, while every Saturday, 5-10pm, Lamai Beach walking street is known for its focus on food and clothes.

WAT PHRA YAI

KOH

Located on a small island called Koh Fan, connected by a bridge north of the airport, this famous temple is home to a 12-meterhigh golden Buddha statue. The temple sits on the top of a hill and is reached by a series of steps. Once at the summit you can catch some impressive views of the island’s beaches, Koh Phangan and the Gulf of Thailand.

Four Seasons Resort, 219 Moo 5, Angthong, 077-243-000. Open daily 6:30-11am, noon-4pm, 6-10pm (bar closes at midnight). www.fourseasons. com/kohsamui

FINE-DINING

DINING ON THE ROCKS Six Senses, 9/10 Moo 5, Baan Plai Laem, Bophut, 077-245-678. Open daily 5-11pm. www.sixsenses.com/resorts/ samui/destination The restaurant at Six Senses resort lives up to its name, positioned on a rocky outcrop above Bophut Beach. With its very own garden on site, the playful dishes are made with the freshest vegetables and herbs, and draw from various global cuisines. Dining on the Rocks also has one of the island’s best wine cellars.

H BISTRO Hansar Samui, 101/28 Moo 1, Bophut, 077-245-511. Open daily 6:30-10:30am, 11:30am-3pm, 6-11pm (last order at 10:30pm). www.hansarsamui.com/h-bistro

Perched on top of the hill at Four Seasons resort, Koh is headed by a Spanish executive chef, Alex Gares, who previously worked at Michelin-star restaurants including el Bulli and Lasarte in Catalonia. Inspired by southern Thai flavors, Gares serves top-quality items that are sourced as locally as possible, such as deep-fried soft-shell crab, with black pepper and garlic sauce.

NAMU W Retreat Koh Samui, 4/1 Moo 1, Mae Nam, 077-915-999. Open daily Mon-Thu 6-11pm (last order at 10:30pm); Fri-Sun, noon-4pm, ww.wretreatkohsamui.com A Korean chef heads Namu, the stylish flagship restaurant at the equally chic W Retreat Koh Samui, turning out reinvented classic Japanese dishes through a blend of Asian and Western flavors. The results are intriguing and artistic dishes like hamachi sashimi (Japanese amberjack) with leek and Mexican chili mint dressing or Maine lobster stir-fried udon noodles and chili.

LOCAL EATERIES

HAAD BANG PO

Moo 6, Bang Po Beach, Mae Nam, 081-788-8936. Open daily 10am-10pm Run by Khun Moo, who has over 20 years’ experience working as a chef in high-end hotels, this beachfront restaurant offers a very local taste in a rustic setting. Expect classic seafood dishes like khai jiew hor mok (omelet with spicy curry seafood), waii kua (octopus in dried curry) and gaeng kua hed lup (sea anemone curry).

JAN HOM 7/3 Moo 6, Bang Por Beach, Mae Nam, 077-236-458. Open daily 10am-10pm Right on the beach, this is the place to go if you want authentic Southern-style dishes along with fresh seafood. Get a table on the sand and order the signature nam prik goong sod (vegetables with shrimp relish) and gaeng som (sour tamarind soup).

As a former chef for the King of Jordan, Stephan Jean Dion knows all about meeting diners’ high expectations. The Canadian-born executive chef at the Hansar hotel serves up French-Mediterranean cuisine using top-quality ingredients like French oysters and Hokkaido scallops, flown in from all over the world.

JAHN 49/8-9 Moo 4, Hillcrest Rd., TalingNgam, 077-915-888. Open daily 6-10pm (sometimes closed Mon-Tue so call ahead in advance) The chef at Conrad Koh Samui has cooked all over Europe at Michelin-star restaurants like France’s Au Chapon Fin and Restaurant Molenberg in Belgium.

At Jahn, he prepares Thai food like tom yum goong (hot-and sour shrimp soup) and papaya salad, adding a refined twist with imported ingredients. The setting is also pretty opulent, and sports some dramatic views.

KOH

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SOUND CLUB Chaweng Beach, 091-034-4279. Open daily 10pm-7am. www.soundclubsamui.com A great spot to take the party after you’re done with Green Mango. Sound Club has both open-air and indoor spaces, and the DJs are usually the ones who do the Full Moon Parties on nearby Koh Pha Ngan, playing all night hiphop and R&B.

HEALTH & WELLNESS

ABSOLUTE SANCTUARY

DRINK GALLERY

KO SENG

SABEINGLAE

CHA CHA MOON

95 Moo 1, Taweeratpakdee Rd., Mae Nam, 077-425-365. Open daily 10am9pm

438/82 Moo 1, Maret, 077-233-082.

Open daily 10am-10pm. www.sabienglae.com

124/1 Moo 1, Bophut, 089-651-2777.

Open daily 8pm-2am. www.facebook. com/ChachamoonBeachClub

Long-adored by locals for its intriguing blend of Chinese and Southern Thai dishes, this restaurant has been serving up fresh seafood for more than 50 years. The menu changes depending on the day’s catch, to be enjoyed steamed, stir-fried or dished up in a distinctive Southern-style tom yam soup. They also grow their own organic vegetables

One of the best venues on the island for seafood, Sabeinglae offers a long list of authentic local dishes like gaeng kua hed lhoob (mushroom curry), wai kua (squid in coconut milk), fresh oysters with deep-fried garlic and the deep-fried seabass. The bill is very affordable and the sea view a real plus.

The latest beach club to land on nightlife central Chaweng Beach, Cha Cha Moon offers daybeds on the beach, a rustic-meets-tropical vibe and a refreshing playlist.

KRUA CHAO BAAN 438/18 Moo 1 Maret, 077-418-589.

Open daily 10am-10pm. tinyurl.com/ lyj9kxm Krua Chao Baan sits in three wooden houses right next to the white sands of Lamai Beach. The menu is big on Southern recipes such as yellow gaeng som (spicy sour soup), stir-fried shrimp with sataw beans and hormok talay (crab eggs in steamed curry). Don’t miss their specialty, khai-jiew Krua Chao Baan, a seafood-stuffed omelet that looks more like a Spanish tortilla. As an added bonus, the beach is beautiful and you can work off those calories by taking their free kayak out for a paddle.

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NIGHTLIFE

ARK BAR

159/89 Moo 2 Chaweng Beach, Bophut, 077-961-333. Open daily 7am-2am (restaurant), 2pm-2am (club). www.ark-bar.com Unlike many beach clubs that charge you a fixed price for food and drink to enter, it’s completely free to turn up to this one on Chaweng. The party starts at 2pm every day and goes until the early hours, with DJs playing EDM as guests play in the pool and dance on the beach. Wednesday and Friday nights are the big ones.

DRINK GALLERY The Library, 14/1 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach, Bophut, 077-422-767-8. Open daily 1pm-1am. www.thelibrary.co.th This happening bar belongs to the island’s hip design hotel The Library and is suitably decked out in pop art, chandeliers and raw-wood furniture.

The drinks list focuses on wines and cocktails, while the music is soft chillout tunes. It’s also a nice warm-up spot if you want to explore the nearby Soi Green Mango, the center of Samui’s nightlife.

NIKKI BEACH Lipa Noi Beach, 077-914-500. Open daily 11am-11pm. www.nikkibeachthailand.com The sister-venue of celeb-hangouts in Las Vegas, Miami and St. Tropez, this beach club offers signature beach-side teepees and a free-form pool around which to kick back with a drink. The highlight of the week is the Amazing Sunday Brunch, which features over 40 dishes. You can also rent a bungalow for added privacy.

88 Moo 5, Bophut, 077-601-190.

Open daily 8am-9pm. www.absolutesanctuary.com The Moroccan-inspired wellness resort is situated up in Koh Samui’s Chong Mon Hills, overlooking the Gulf of Thailand. The resort offers detox, spa and yoga holiday programs which can be tailored to different needs. For those who just want to dip a toe into detox before taking the full plunge, the oneday sampler program is the most intensive short-term option available.

CONRAD SPA KOH SAMUI 49/8-9 Moo 4, Hillcrest Road, TalingNgam. 077-915-888. Open daily 9am9pm. www.conradhotels.com Winner of the Best Luxury Wellness Spa 2013 and 2014 at the World Luxury Spa Awards, this facility is blessed with a sweeping view of the sea (see page 25). Each treatment room comes with its own deck overlooking the clear blue waters below. On top of the many treatments and massages available, you can try activities like Tai Chi or Pilates.

KAMALAYA KOH SAMUI 102/9 Moo 3, Laem Set Rd., Na Muang, 077-429-800. Open daily 8am8pm. www.kamalaya.com Nestled on a jungle-covered mountain, Kamalaya is one of Thailand’s best integrated wellness retreats. Newcomers should try the full-board introduction program that aims to cleanse toxins from your body with a diet of pure organic food and a number of body treatments over three days. More advanced programs are available for longer stays.

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Lit_Hote

ADVERTORIAL

LiT BANGKOK Hotel & Residence, Your Launchpad to Explore the Best of the City.

LiT BANGKOK Hotel & Residence is an oasis in the heart of the city. Its superlative restaurants—such as the new, buzzing Pasta & Pool—serve fresh, creative and comforting dishes. The attentive and informed staff will help you get the best out of your stay, blending city adventures with well-earned rest at its superior facilities. LiT BANGKOK Hotel & Residence is located in a district rich with culture, jam-packed with shopping and connected to all of Bangkok via the BTS Skytrain. Blessed with a beautiful spa and incredible restaurants, LiT BANGKOK Hotel & Residence is the perfect place to get the most out of Bangkok.

MEET THE NEIGHBORS

REST, RELAX, RE-ENERGIZE

Within a couple minutes’ walk, you’ll be exploring the house of legendary US-secret-agent-turned-silk-producer Jim Thompson.

Just as historic and grand, the Queen Savang Vadhana Museum’s collection of century-old-buildings with refined, European-influenced designs is also a short walk away.

You’ve earned some downtime. Head to LiT BANGKOK Hotel’s Kiriya Spa and discover the healing benefits of Thailand’s many regional traditions and its performance arts, which have been used to inspire the treatments offered in the soothing, meditative space. LiT BANGKOK Hotel & Residence is also blessed with a stateof-the-art gym, Jacuzzi, steambath and pool.

There is plenty more culture in the district to be explored by foot, such as at the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre, but you might want to save some time for shopping. At LiT BANGKOK Hotel & Residence, you’re surrounded by the very best malls in town. Just across the street, MBK is a geek’s paradise, while the nearby Siam Center has all the top local fashion designers you won’t find at home. For quirky finds and cheap clothes, there’s Siam Square, while Paragon, across from it, is a luxurious retail giant with a stunning IMAX theatre and a world-class aquarium.

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The rooms, too, are designed to provide maximum relaxation.

Their unique architecture encourages a sense of privacy while overlooking the surrounding neighborhood. They are equipped with gently changing LED lights and styled with curvaceous, organic shapes.

A TASTE OF THE GOOD STUFF Our new Pasta & Pool restaurant is the perfect spot to relax and unwind. It’s fun, it’s interactive and it allows you to stay by the pool as you tuck into a hearty plate of penne. The first poolside pasta bar of its kind in Bangkok, it serves a whopping 50 different recipes, from Lasagne Milles Feuilles Salad with Crab Meat to Creamy Pesto Scallop, along with a solid list of wines.

Looking for the full dining experience? Head indoors to BCDE (Bistro of Creative Drinking & Eating), serving refined cuisine and comfort food with creative tweaks—all of it delivered with LiT BANGKOK Hotel & Residence’s highly polished service.

End the evening with a drink on the Fiesta Steppe, a tiered garden that climbs up from the urban energy at street-level to the cool waters of LiT BANGKOK Hotel’s pool. It’s the perfect spot for a well-crafted cocktail or an ice-cold beer, and you can also nibble on some fries, Thai-style beef strips or comforting snacks.

To book a room or make a restaurant reservation, call 02-612-3456.

LiT BANGKOK Hotel & Residence.

36/1 Kasemsan Soi 1, Rama 1 Rd., Pathumwan, Bangkok. BTS National Stadium WHERE GUEST B OOK 2 9 www.litbangkok.com

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ORIENTAL COOL Phuket’s East Coast may not have the beach clubs of the Western shore, but it’s slowly emerging as the top spot for both fine dining and authentic local flavors.

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BABA SOUL FOOD

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ove them or hate them, the busy beaches and booming beach clubs of Surin and beyond are the first thing that come to mind when thinking about Phuket. But over on the remarkably unspoiled East Coast, canny developers are beginning to take advantage of the breathtaking views out over the still blue waters and craggy outcrops of Phang Nga Bay (it’s not for nothing that the island’s top marinas are all on this side of the island). Here, you’ll find not only world-class resorts with serious dining destinations, but also the top spots for fresh local seafod.

RESORT CHIC One of the classiest Eastern spots is Cape Yamu, a private ridge housing three five-star projects by Campbell Kane developers. Among them is Breeze, a dining spot popular for its poolside brunches with free-flow drinks every Sunday, as well as the tropical surroundings and spectacular view of Phang Nga Bay. But it’s what goes on in the kitchen that’s really interesting. The menus change every few days depending on the local availability of ingredients to ensure that all the components used to craft each dish are at their freshest and purest state. Expect dishes like duck confit with kale, baby corn, leeks, shitake or scallops with endives and radicchio flambéed with brandy, snow peas, orange and mint.

If you’re craving a more localized version of fine-dining, venture into Nahmyaa at the Point Yamu by COMO resort. At this bubbly, goldfish-themed restaurant facing the water, executive chef Dan Moran prepares dishes inspired by the depths of Southern Thai cuisine and street food. Excite your palette with one of the signature cocktails such as The Fighting Duck (plum jam, ginger and hoisin, shaken with ruby port and barrel-aged reposado tequila, served over ice with cherry wood smoke) while you indulge on coconut-smoked duck, stir-fried spinach in coconut milk and dark Southern curry with black kingfish.

Travel further south and you’ll find the stunning Sri Panwa resort, where the vibrant but homey Baba Soul Food specializes in home-style Thai comfort dishes like khao tang poong pirod and lhon goong (crispy rice crackers served with shrimp green curry and shrimp coconut dip). The recipes come from the resort owner’s family, and are prepared using fresh, local ingredients. As good as the food are the panoramic views of the blissful, deep-blue Andaman Sea. Within the same resort, you’ll also find Baba Iki, the only Japanese fine-dining restaurant on the island, which serves premium imported ingredients like Hida wagyu beef.

ESSENTIALS Breeze 244 Moo 7, Pakhlok 081-271-2320 breezecapeyamu.com Nahmyaa 255 Moo 7, Pakhlok 076-360-100 www.comohotels.com Baba Soul Food 88 Moo 8, Sakdidej Rd., Vichit 076-3710000 www.babaphuket.com Mirror Mirror 31 Dibuk Rd., Talad Yai, 089-796-9956 www. mirrormirrorphuket.com Raya Restaurant 48 Dibuk Rd. 07-621-8155 Blue Elephant Krabi Rd., Phuket town 07-635-4355 Kan Eang @ Pier 44/1 Vist Rd., Rawai 07-638-1212 www.kaneang-pier.com Bang Gaan Seafood Laem Hin, Muang, Koh Mapraw 081-788-5593 Bang Mud Laem Hin Laem Hin, Muang, Koh Mapraw 081-273-2367

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BABA IKI

TOWN AND COUNTRY For something more Western, hop over to Mirror Mirror in Phuket Town and try some of their hearty European-American fusion dishes. Located amid the Sino-Portuguese shop-houses of Dibuk Road, this cozy gem can be spotted from outside by its bright blue windows and doors. The interior, adorned with casual-yet-elegant wooden furniture, neutral linens and Moroccan-style upholstery, fuses Old Phuket with modern charm. Dishes are simple, like the mozzarella and tomato salad or beef burger in a charcoal bun, but made to a high standard.

Phuket Town is also famous for its old-school eateries serving traditional Phuket food. Tucked behind newer establishments, Raya Restaurant is not only a hot spot for visitors, but also a goto for locals despite a pricier menu than some of its neighbors.

The owners have given this ancient two-story shop-house a light renovation to preserve the building’s beautiful original features like the Sino-Portuguese mosaic floor, wooden paneling and stained glass. The food focuses exclusively on Southern Thai produce, and features dishes like gaeng nuea poo bai cha ploo (crab meat curry in coconut milk) and pad sator kapi goong (stir fried parkia seeds with shrimp).

If you’re looking for something more refined, the stately Blue Elephant is as grand as they come. Located in an immaculately restored colonial palace, the restaurant matches its elaborate

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setting with excellent service for a Thai fine-dining experience that draws on Bangkok’s palace cuisine. The menu serves both Central and Southern dishes, and has some nice set menus for those who’d rather put their faith in the chef’s personal choice.

BESIDE THE SEA Looking for the freshest of the fresh seafood? East Phuket can definitely give you that. Head towards Chalong Bay and you’ll find the stylish Kan Eang@Pier, where you’ll be served seafood taken straight from the Andaman Sea and into the kitchen, along with beautiful views of the harbor and neighboring islands.

For a more characteristically local seafood experience, head over to one of the four floating restaurants at the Leam Hin Pier—a must-visit place for holidaying Thais. Each restaurant is set in the middle of the water on large wooden rafts held together by thick ropes and old car tires. The only way to get to them is by long-tail boat, but when you do, you’re in for a treat. All the restaurants have the same menu of Thai seafood favorites, with the only difference being alcohol regulations.

While none of them serve their own drinks, Bang Gaan Seafood will allow you to bring in alcohol without additional charges, while Bang Mud Laem Hin carries a strict no-booze policy.

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PHUKET TOWN WALKING STREET

PHUKET Where to go and what to do on the Pearl of the Andaman.

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ATTRACTIONS

BANGLA BOXING STADIUM 198/4 Ratautit Rd., Patong Beach, Kathu, 089-726-1112. www.banglaboxingstadiumpatong.com The ancient art of muay Thai is a big part of Thailand's cultural heritage, and a trip to see a fight is a fascinating, if slightly inyour-face, experience thanks in no small part to the frenetic gambling of the crowd.

Located in Patong behind Jungceylon Shopping Mall, this stadium features three fight nights a week on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday from 9pm.

PHUKET TOWN WALKING STREET Thalang Rd., Phuket Town, 081-677-9851. Open Sunday 4-10pm Set up by Phuket’s baba community, this open-air Sunday night market has breathed new life into Phuket Town’s beautiful Sino-Portuguese architecture.

Alongside the shopping zone for handicrafts and travel memorabilia is a space dedicated to the work of local students, street dance and traditional shows. There’s plenty of food, too. Be sure to try Phuket specialties mee Hokkian (Phuket-style noodles) and o-tao (stir-fried oyster with crispy pork skin and eggs).

PROMTHEP CAPE Rawai, Mueang Phuket Incredibly popular for it's stunning sunsets, Promthep Cape sits on the southern tip of the island, looking out over the Andaman Sea. Get to the viewpoint just before 6pm to join the crowds watching the sun drop below the waves.

The view is particularly special between December and March when the grass on the cape turns yellow and brown, giving the area a golden glow

SPLASH JUNGLE WATER PARK 65 Moo 4, Mai Khao Soi 4, Mai Khao, Thalang, 076-372-111. Open daily 10am6am. www.splashjunglewaterpark.com This large water park, situated near Mai Khao Beach, boasts hair-raising rides like the Boomerango and Super Bowl, a wave pool, a lazy river, hydrotherapy pool and a play-pool for younger children. There is also a restaurant, cafe and the Splash Bar. It's free for guests at Centara West Sands Resorts & Villas Splash or B699 for adults, B350 for children (5-12).

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WAT CHALONG

LIM'S

Luang Pho Chaem Rd., Mueang Phuket, 076-280-343

28 Phra Baramee Soi 7, Kathu, Patong, 076-344-834. Open daily 6-10pm. www.limsphuket.com

The most striking and definitely most important of the 29 temples on Phuket island was founded in the 1830s. There are many tales about the important role the temple and its monks have played in the island's history. The newest addition is a 60-meter-high pagoda built in the late 1990s to house a relic of Buddha brought here from Sri Lanka.

FINE-DINING

Set on the outskirts of Patong, you reach Lim’s by climbing a long, potholed stretch of road that seems to shoot straight into the jungle on the hill above. Lim’s itself is a stark, bare, concrete box, but its garden and plants add some luxuriant foliage to the otherwise minimalist decor. The food is fusion, the mango daiquiris are to-die-for and the servers are cute and attentive.

BLUE ELEPHANT PHUKET

TRISARA SEAFOOD

96 Krabi Rd., Phuket, 076-354-355 Open daily, 11am-2pm, 6:30-10:30pm. www.blueelephant.com

60/1 Moo 6, Srisoonthorn Rd., Cherngtalay, 076-310-100. Open daily 12:303:30pm, 7pm-late (last orders 10:30). www.trisara.com

The world-famous Thai restaurant group has renovated the century-old Prapitak Chinpracha Sino-Portuguese mansion. What once belonged to an affluent family is now a luxurious dining space and cooking school serving some of the best Royal Thai cuisine on the island.

Set in a high-end resort on the quiet side of Nai Thon Beach, the decor of bleached wood and cool colors is inspired by Mediterranean beachside restaurants. The kitchen offers a wide range of gourmet seafood dishes like grilled tiger prawns with Himalayan salt.

SOUTHERN FOOD

KAN ENG@PIER

44/1 Moo 5, Viset Rd., Rawai, 076-381-212. Open daily 7am-11pm Though the decor has been refurbished, the makeover of this decades-old eatery overlooking Chalong Bay has left the menu untouched. That’s a good thing for its loyal following of upscale islanders addicted to the deep-fried seaweed and spicy yellow soup.

MEE TON POE 214/7 Phuket Rd., 076-216-293. Open daily 9am-6:30pm (closed on the 29th of every month) Phuket Town takes great pride in its Hokkien traditions. The best place to get a taste of the city’s Chinese ancestry is at Mee Ton Poe, right on the Clock Tower Circle. Slurp up seafood, fish balls, pak choi and fresh eggs mixed in with big yellow or white noodles. Like the locals, have it with a side of chicken satay straight from the grill. Come early to avoid disappointment.

DEDOS 8 Lagoon Rd., Cherngtalay, 076-325182. Open daily 6pm-late (last orders 10:30pm). www.dedos-restaurant.com Created by Pablo Blattmann, a keen chef who studied French gastronomy at the renowned Institut Paul Bocuse in France, DeDos offers impressive quality and well-presented dishes with a mix of Mediterranean, Thai, Japanese and French flavors. The restaurant itself is not much to look at but suitably cozy.

JOE'S DOWNSTAIRS 223/3 Prabaramee Rd., Patong, Kathu, 076-618-245. Open daily 12pm-midnight. www.baanrimpa.com/seasiderestaurant Only a few minutes from Phuket Town, this beach-style terrace sits on the rocks above Kalim Bay. The interior is an airy mix of wood and white-wash, while the kitchen offers fusion dishes varying from light tapas to mains like pecancrusted Phuket white snapper fillet. The classic cocktails are a perfect match for a lazy sun-downer.

PROMTHEP CAPE

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ADVERTORIAL

Life in Bangkok, Perfected klapsons The River Residences Bangkok is how life in Bangkok is meant to be: by the river, in a perfectly designed apartment with sweeping views and attended to by highly professional and friendly staff.

k

lapsons The River Residences Bangkok is setting new standards for design, architecture and liveability in Bangkok. Making a dramatic architectural statement on the bank of the Chao Phraya, it soars vertically like a single glass shard pointed at the sky. Home to only 92 spacious apartments, the building offers unobstructed vistas of the river below to nearly every single unit. You cannot beat the location either, a three-minute ferry ride to BTS Saphan Taksin, for effortless access to all of Bangkok. Inside, the interior is sophisticated and refined, balancing colorful Italian designer furniture with resolutely luxurious materials in muted tones for the walls, ceilings and floors.

AN IDEAL LIFESTYLE The dedicated pier and shuttle ferry is not your only way to zip into town. With a reception desk manned 24/7, you are guaranteed airport transfers and taxis by simply strolling into the lobby. klapsons also offers guides and excursions—just as you would expect from a luxury hotel. You may find it hard to leave home, though.

There are three infinity pools and two multi-purpose courts at your disposal.

And that is if you manage to peel yourself away from your own apartment’s balcony overlooking the majestic Chao Phraya.

A HOME THAT MATCHES YOUR NEEDS klapson The River Residences Bangkok offers both serviced and private residences.

The serviced residences range from 35-squaremeter studios to 147-square-meter 3-bedroom apartments. They can be serviced daily or weekly, depending on your preference, and come with stunning furniture pieces by Italian designer William Sawaya. The private residences are even more spacious, ranging from a 68-square-meter one-bedroom unit to an amazing 220-square-meter space with three bedrooms, complete with standing bar, children’s play zone, and generous freestanding tub overlooking the city.

HAVING IT ALL All residences come with a host of amenities on top of their gorgeous floor-to-ceiling windows, lavish decor and superior furnishing. The kitchens are fully equipped, LCD TVs are a generous 40” and 46”, lighting design is ideal for both work and relaxation, storage space is abundant, drawers are already stocked with utensils and glassware, and, yes, there is a washing machine in each unit. Beyond your room, you will find that all the essentials are at hand on site: shopping gallery, dry cleaning, concierge, grocery service, cable, free Wi-Fi and 24-hour security.

klapsons The River Residences Bangkok 110/725 Charoennakorn Soi 13 , Klongtonsai, Klong Sarn, Bangkok 10600 t: +66 (0) 2803 8100, f: +66 (0) 2861 0366 e: reservations_theriverbkk@klapsons.com fb.com/klapsonsTheRiverResidencesBangkok www.klapsons.com/bangkok WHERE GUEST B OOK @klapsonsbangkok

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WHITE BOX 2475/7 Prabarame Rd., Patong, 076-346-271. Open daily 6pm-2am. www.whitebox.co.th A little out of Patong, this high-end restaurant with sea views also features a rooftop bar popular with upmarket visitors and expats. On the weekends there’s often live percussion and guest DJs.

XANA BEACH CLUB Angsana Laguna Phuket, 10 Moo Srisoonthorn Rd., Cherng Talay, 076-324-101. Open daily 10am-midnight; Sat-Sun closed 1am One of the swankiest beach clubs on the island features a 35-meter swim-up bar overlooking a vast stretch of Bangtao beach, and is hugged by sofas, daybeds and cabanas.

HEALTH & WELLNESS

ATSUMI HEALING CENTER

34/18 Soi King Pattana 4, Saiyuan Rd., Rawai, 081-272-0571. Open daily 8am-7pm. www.atsumihealing.com NIKKI BEACH

PAKNAM SEAFOOD

THUNG KA CAFE

NIKKI BEACH

52/220 Rasadanusorn Rd., 076-240-240.

Open daily 10:30am-10pm

Korchimbe Rd., Khao Rang, 076-211500. Open daily 11am-11pm (last orders 09:30pm) www.facebook.com/myonion7

62/11 Moo 6 Cherngtalay, Talang, 076-681-161. Open daily 11am-10pm (last orders 9:30pm). www.nikkibeach. com/phuket

Located in the north of Phuket Town, the restaurant offers sensationally fresh Thai seafood at reasonable prices. Its popularity among locals means it can be hard to snag a table.

RAYA 48 New Dibuk Rd., Phuket Town, 076-218-155. Open daily 10am-10pm (last orders 9:30pm) The century-old building’s original mosaic tiled floor and walls adorned with 50s tea and coffee poster-girls and pictures of Thai monarchs will take you back in time. The line-up of traditional Phuket dishes includes moo hong (steamed pork with pepper and garlic), gaeng nue poo bai cha ploo (crab meat with curry and coconut milk) and pad pak mieng goong sieb (stir fried mieng leaves with dried prawns).

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You’ll find only authentic Phuket food on the menu of this earthy cafe on the hilltop of Khao Rang, near Phuket Town. With panoramic views of the city and the bay, the space features an open-air wooden terrace filled with simple chairs and tables for a cozy feeling.

They also offer a selection of signature smoothies.

NIGHTLIFE

One of the latest beach clubs to arrive on the island looks to imitate its other global incarnations. Decked out with plush white sunbeds and lots of drapery, there’s definitely a laidback luxe vibe going on around the central freeform pool, which sits just steps from the beach. The club promises dining, entertainment, fashion, music, film and art, as well as special events like their famous Sunday brunch and sunset happy hours.

Surin Beach, Cherng Talay, 076-316-567. Open daily 9am-2am. www.catchbeachclub.com

Dibuk Rd., Phuket Town, 086-949-9555.

Open daily 7pm-late

The highlight of Phuket’s first fashionable beach club has to be its setting on the beautiful and delightfully quiet Surin Beach. A popular night spot, this place is more about partying than daytime lounging as there’s no pool to cool off in.

To get into this watering hole, you definitely need to make a reservation on Friday and Saturday nights.The popular old town pub packs in locals thanks to its charming melee of pop-color vintage furnishings and live music.

CATCH BEACH CLUB

PLOENCHIT

The health resort offers fasting and detox programs which include yoga, massage and treatments like colon hydrotherapy.

There are many packages on offer, ranging from 3-10 days. Facilities include a gym, a swimming pool and a cafe selling a variety of raw food dishes.

COMO SHAMBALA RETREAT Point Yamu by COMO, 225 Moo 7, Paklok, Talang, 076-360-100. Open daily 9am-9pm (last treatment 7:30pm) This spa is part of the stylish Point Yamu by COMO resort, the sister of the renowned Metropolitan hotel in Bangkok. Styled by Italian designer Paola Navone, the Shambhala Retreat is extensive, with a 100-meter swimming pool, yoga studio and large gym.

YOGA REPUBLIC 123/3-5 Moo 5, Srisoonthorn Road, Cherngtalay, 082-280-3914. Open 9am-9pm Set amid a relaxed and serene environment, the yoga studio uses an infrared heating system said to create a perfect temperature for yoga practice. Two types of yoga are offered: Hot Hatha Yoga for advanced yogis and Power/Vinyasa Yoga (30-32 degrees Celsius) for regular yogis.

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SMELL THE COFFEE Thanks to a perfect climate for coffee-bean cultivation and the international savvy of local baristas, the northern city of Chiang Mai has become the coffee capital of Southeast Asia.

By Pinnyada Tanitnon

NINE ONE COFFEE

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or decades, Chiang Mai has had the potential to become a booming coffee city. The numerous coffee plantations and slow-life culture have always been there, but the appreciation for and knowledge to pour good coffee was missing. In fact, the drink of choice for locals was instant coffee mixed with a copious amount of condensed milk and sugar. But things have changed, at last. A newfound appreciation for local beans, as well as the rise of knowledgeable growers and internationally experienced roasters, have made Chiang Mai Thailand’s go-to destination for quality brews.

Locals educated in the world’s coffee-culture capitals from Sydney to San Francisco have brought with them expert roasting knowledge and an increasingly fussy attitude to what local beans they’ll use. In turn, farmers have become extra meticulous when it comes to growing and picking, while consumers have cottoned on to the beauty of a fresh single-origin pour-over instead of an instant cup of joe.

One such cafe owner is renowned latte artist and barista Arnon Thitprasert of Ristr8to, arguably the most happening coffee shop in town. Arnon perfected his coffee credentials on the notoriously caffeine-snooty streets of Sydney, where he won several coffee-making awards.

“I participated in latte art competitions, so it made sense for me to use my latte art skills in Thailand,” he says.

“Back in the day, the quality and flavor of the coffee beans wasn’t important to most locals. They couldn’t care less about where the beans came from or how the coffee was roasted and prepared. A lot of them only knew about ka fae ron (hot coffee) and ka fae yen (iced coffee).

Over time, regulars began to realize that there was something special in Ristr8to’s coffee that went beyond the pretty designs on the surface of their foam. They began to realize that Arnon’s product had a distinct, more complex smell and taste. He took this opportunity to educate his drinkers about why his coffee tastes so good—how the origins of the beans and the way they’re roasted then blended affect the taste.

Presently, Ristr8to boasts a variety of blends from beans sourced from 20 different locations worldwide. “I source international beans by looking at their profile and characteristics,” he says. “When I choose the beans, I make sure they come from a credible, reliable source. If a grower is passionate about their coffee, they go to great lengths to ensure it is picked at the right time.”

Like Arnon, Rawi Kasemsuk, co-founder of Ponganes, a coffee shop solely focused on pouring the best cups possible, wanted to introduce a different coffee culture to Thailand after returning home from Sydney. A native of Northern Thailand, he realized that Chiang Mai was the perfect location to hit the ground running.

“The reason why we chose to open our coffee shop in Chiang Mai was because it had all the resources needed to become a great coffee city,” says Rawi. “The city was already equipped with plantations and the ideal weather.

All that it lacked were talented roasters and brewers.”

Rawi is so dedicated to what’s in the cup that his coffee shop doesn’t even have Wi-Fi or air-conditioning. He wants customers to visit purely for the quality of his coffee.

“Going to coffee stores has become today’s new trend,” he explains. “Our objective is to focus on genuine coffee appreciation, rather than what’s chic. We wanted to create a space for true coffee lovers to relax, socialize and enjoy the variety of coffee we brew. That’s why we don’t really have a food menu.”

Because coffee is the only thing on Ponganes’ menu, Rawi can be very particular when it comes to selecting his beans. Apart from looking at location and type, he also takes into consideration the grower’s work ethic and attitudes. They must truly understand their coffee and be passionate about their product.

ESSENTIALS Ristr8to 15/3 Nimmanhemin Rd., Suthep, 053-215-278, Open daily 8am-11pm www.ristr8to-coffee-chiangmai. com Ponganes 133/5 Ratchapakinai Rd., Sriphum, 087-727-2980, Open daily 8:30am-4:30pm www.ponganesespresso.com Akha Ama 9/1 Hassadhisawee Rd., Changphuak, 086-915-8600 Open daily 8am-8pm www.akhaama.com Nine One Coffee 300 Moo 2, Doi Saket, 081-171-7575 Open daily 7am-8pm www.facebook.com/9onecoffee

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Fortunately, he has on his doorstep one of the best coffee growing regions in Southeast Asia. Local growers and farmers have played a huge role in the northern capital’s booming café culture. Lee Ayu, of the awardwinning Akha Ama coffee bean brand, ventured into the world of organic coffee-growing with the desire to help his hill-tribe community.

Ayu was the only person in his village to go to university. He studied English before working for an NGO with the hope of using what he learned to help his village prosper. After discovering that there was great potential in the Arabica beans grown by his village, he founded Akha Ama, which today produces beans that are internationally recognized for their quality and have been certified by the Specialty Coffee Association of Europe for several consecutive years (his beans are sold at the Rimping Supermarkets in Chiang Mai and his own Akha Ama Cafe).

Another local grower, Wullop Pasananon of Nine One coffee, fell into the industry after obtaining a piece of land on Chiang Mai’s outskirts. After realizing the environment was perfect for growing coffee, he began teaching himself how to farm beans organically.

Gradually, he transitioned from growing to roasting and opened the Nine One coffee bar. His position as grower, roaster and cafe owner has given him unique insight into every step of production.

“Coffee should be treated like fruit,” Wullop says.

“The beans only taste best when they’re ripe.” For him, this means picking beans when they’re at 90 percent of their ripening cycle which, he believes, gives his coffee a unique, sweet aftertaste.

Wullop now has two branches of Nine One in Chiang Mai, both specializing in local, organic, single-origin brews that are widely praised by both locals and visitors.

Although the roasters and growers of Chiang Mai have successfully put their city on the serious-coffeedrinkers’ map of the world, they hope that one day the whole of Thailand can become a leading coffee nation.

“We have more coffee stores than a lot of leading coffee nations,” says Arnon Thitprasert of Ristr8o. “We have more and more skilled baristas moving out here. We have an abundance of plantations nearby. Now, all we need is communication. It will take time, but it is doable.”

AKHA AMA

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CHIANG MAI The things to see, eat, drink and do in the Northern capital.

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ATTRACTIONS

BAAN KANG WAT

Opposite Wat Ram Poeng, 191-197 Soi Wat Umong, Suthep, 095-691-0888.

Open daily 11am-6pm. www.facebook. com/BannKangWat Baan Kang Wat is a new community mall where the vendors are carefully chosen to ensure their business gives back to society through socially-responsible crafts and products.

DOI INTHANON NATIONAL PARK Jom Thong District, 053-355-728, 053-311-608 At 2,599 meters above sea level, Doi Inthanon is the highest mountain in Thailand, and the area around it has been a national park since 1972. Situated 60km from Chiang Mai’s city center, the park features many beautiful waterfalls such as Mae Klang, Vachiratharn, Siriphum and Mae Ya, and has a diverse range of bird life. The main Gew Mae Pan trail takes in spectacular views and the impressive Napamaytanidol Chedi, built in honor of King Bhumipol’s 60th birthday.

LANNA FOLKLIFE MUSEUM Ratvithi Rd., Sripoom, 053-217-793, 053-219-833. Open Tue-Sun 8:30am5pm. www.cmocity.com An excellent way to gain further insight into local culture is at the Lanna Folklife Museum, which includes rooms dedicated to the architecture of Lanna-style temples and religious imagery, textiles and silverware. The two-story colonial-style building displays exhibits (many of which visitors are allowed to touch) with information in both Thai and English.

WAT PHRA SINGH Ratchadamnoen Rd., call the TAT for information on 053-248-604-5. Open daily 6am-5pm The Buddhist temple at the end of Ratchadamnoen Road is one of the oldest temples in Thailand, with parts of it dating right back to the 1300s. The complex’s main attraction, Wihan Lai Kham, was built in 1345 to house the revered Phra Buddha Sihing statue, itself a relic of the 13th century.

WAT PHRA SINGH See page 16.

LITTLE LANNA

LOCAL DINING

HUEN PENH RESTAURANT 112 Ratchamankha Rd., Phra Singh, 053-814-548. Open daily 9am-4pm, 5-10pm Elegantly plated, authentically Northern cuisine like sai ua (Northern sausage), gaeng hang lay (pork curry) and namprik num (green pepper dip), served in warren of rooms filled with Lanna artefacts

KHUM VIENG YONG

BAN KHANG WAT

LAMDUAN FAHAM

CHEZ MARCO

6/1 Moo 3 Changpuak, Muang, 053-212-798. Open daily 8am-5pm

15/7 Loi Kroh Rd., 053-207-032.

Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:3011:00pm. www.tinyurl.com/p9z8lya

Lamduan Faham ranks as many people’s absolute favorite place in Chiang Mai for khao soi, the classic Northern dish of noodles in a rich and spicy coconut broth. Choose between beef or chicken and, if you have any room to spare, give the hang lay curry a try, too.

HUEN MUAN JAI

99 Suthep, Muang, 053-329-244-5.

Open daily 11am-9pm

24 Ratchapruk Rd., Changpuak, 053404-998, 089-701-2894. Open Thur-Tue 10am-10pm. www.huenmuanjai.com

Ten minutes away from the city center is this homey restaurant where you can sample Northern delicacies like namprik num (green pepper dip), khua hed thob (mushroom soup) and khai mod dang (ant eggs). The pocket-friendly prices start at just B100.

This Lanna restaurant serves up uncompromised flavors from a chef who’s even featured on the local Iron Chef TV cooking competition. The environment is charmingly makeshift and plating authentically unpretentious.

LITTLE LANNA 248/42-43 Maneenopparat Rd., Sripoom, 082-388-3993. Open daily 11am-9pm. www.facebook.com/LittleLanna This contemporary Lanna restaurant is decorated with details like wooden umbrellas and khit (triangular pillows), and features different styles of seating, from long benches to proper dining tables. The menu offers both fusion fare such as Lanna gyoza, tempura naem and laab omelet plus classics like khao soi (Northern curried noodles) with tofu and boiled egg.

INTER DINING

GINGER & KAFE AT THE HOUSE 199 Moonmuang Rd., Sriphum, 053419-011/-12. Open daily 11am-11pm. www.thehousethailand.com Furnished with velvet sofas and colorful cushions, the atmosphere is comfortable yet still elegant. The menu offers both Asian and Western dishes covering everything from lamb shank slowly cooked with red wine and herbs to traditional fish and chips or Thaistyle beef salad.

Owned by French-Japanese chef Marco, the restaurant offers a French and Mediterranean-inspired menu in a cozy setting with an outdoor terrace. Among the standout dishes are spaghetti with foie gras, beef Provencal stew and trout with almond butter sauce. There are also classic desserts and French wine available.

FARANG SES Dhara Dhevi, 51/4 Moo 1, Chiang Mai-Sankampaeng Rd., 053-888-888.

Open daily 6-10:30pm. www.dharadhevi.com Specializing in modern French cuisine, it offers some of the finest gourmet dining in Chiang Mai. Headed by chef Carlos Manuel Gaudencio, who holds a degree from France’s Lycee Hotelier de La Rochelle, the elegant restaurant offers impeccable and well-presented French dishes.

LE COQ DOR 11 Koh Klang 2 Rd., Nong Hoi, 053-141-555. Open daily 12am-2pm, 6-10pm. www.lecoqdorchiangmai.com Traditional European dishes like pan-fried foie gras, truffle soup and bouillabaisse served in an English-country-style house with a garden and beautiful bandstand that plays host to live music every evening from 7-10pm (except Sundays).

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TERRACES Four Seasons Chiang Mai, Mae RimSamoeng Old Rd., 053-298-181. Open daily 11am-4pm, 6-10pm. www.fourseasons.com/chiangmai The open-air restaurant is set by the resort’s pool and provides a fantastic view of rice paddies and Doi Suthep.

The international menu includes Thai and Italian dishes like pizzas, pastas and salad. Go for its Sunday brunch, which has a buffet and free-flow wine, beer and martinis.

NIGHTLIFE

BEER REPUBLIC 28 Nimmanhaemin Soi 11, Suthep, 053-216-568. Open daily 4pm-midnight. www.beerrepublicchiangmai.com One of most popular nightspots in Chiang Mai, this cozy Tuscan-style bar offers a wide selection of beers with as many as 15 draft options. Apart from all the household names, Beer Republic offers up a bunch of more esoteric drops, such as Kostritzer Black Lager and Weihenstephaner Vitus Weizen-Bock.

The crowds might get younger and younger every day. The music might get worse and worse. But hey, it’s Chiang Mai’s nightlife institution. A song thaew driver might not know where your hotel is, but everyone sure knows how to get to this incredibly popular and fun pub.

THE GOOD VIEW AND RIVERSIDE 13 Charoenraj Rd., Wat Gate, 053-302-764, 053-241-866. Open daily 10am-2am. www.goodview.co.th For a relaxed, informal and seriously fun night out, wander down to the river and seek out the Good View. This Chiang Mai institution is a cavernous, semi-open-air bar-meets-restaurantmeets-live music venue that always

Decorated in a luxe Lanna style, the seven spacious private treatment suites are all equipped with outdoor showers, private herbal steam rooms and outdoor soaking tubs. Focusing on the use of organic Thai herbs, aromatic oils and quality products from England, the spa offers an extensive menu covering massages, facial treatments and yoga.

Set amid lush tropical greenery away from Chiang Mai’s city center, Tao Garden is a health resort offering a variety of detox programs and spa options such as hydrotherapy, Ayurvedic and anti-aging treatments. It also houses a clinic, which offers weight-loss and stress-relief programs.

102 Sirimuangklajan Rd., Suthep, 053-920-111. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.oasisspa.net One of the top spa groups in Thailand, Oasis has three branches in Chiang Mai. Equipped with Jacuzzi, outdoor showers and steam bath, it offers a full spa menu including scrub, wrap, body massage and facial treatments.

Dhara Dhevi, 51/4 Chiang MaiSankampaeng Rd., Moo 1, Tasalam, 053-888-888. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.dharadhevi.com

The bare-brick walls, wooden tables and beautiful bric-a-brac give off a rustic ambience. Order the cocktails and the Chiang Mai Burger, which comes with a Northern-style laab patty seasoned with herbs and made with rice.

502 Moo 1, Mae Rim-Samoeng Old Rd., 053-298-190. Open daily 9am-11pm. www.fourseasons.com/chiangmai/spa

TAO GARDEN 274 Moo 7, Luang Nua, Doi Saket, 053-921-200. Open daily 7am-8pm. www.tao-garden.com

HEALTH & WELLNESS

91/1-2, Si Phum Rd., Tambon Si Phum, 081-765-5246. Open daily 6pm-midnight. goo.gl/Bz8uny

MIXOLOGY

THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS RESORT

OASIS SPA

THE DHEVA SPA

61/6 Arak Rd., Phrasingha, 088-2613057, 083-070-6190. Open Tue-Sun 12pm-midnight

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WARM UP 40 Nimmandhaemin Rd., 053-400677. Open daily 6pm-1am. www.warmupcafe1999.com

NORTH GATE JAZZ

With only a few places to listen to jazz in Chiang Mai, this small building just outside the Old Town often gets packed.

seems to be bursting at the seams.

Book early if you want to get a table out by the river.

MIXOLOGY

Situated in the luxurious Dhara Dhevi resort, this spa is a stunning recreation of a traditional Mandalay-style temple, decorated with replica moldings and sculptures. It offers European, Asian and North African treatments, as well as Indian Ayurvedic massage and various yoga programs.

THE RARINJINDA WELLNESS SPA 14 Charoenraj Rd., Wat Kate, 053-247-000. Open daily 10am-midnight. www.rarinjinda.com Set in the boutique Rarinjinda resort, this spa offers a variety of treatments ranging from traditional Thai massage to aromatherapy and hydrotherapy.

We recommend the slightly unusual 60-minute Splashy Vichy Massage, which sees your whole body massaged by warm jets of water from a series of showerheads.

BEER REPUBLIC

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BANGKOK’S FINE-DINING EXPLOSION

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The opening of L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon is setting new standards for the city’s leading restaurants.

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here has long been a disconnect between Thailand’s image as a culinary giant on the global stage—with many claiming the Kingdom quite simply has the world’s best food—and Bangkok’s fine-dining restaurants’ lack of recognition. Foodies in-the-know would often claim that “street food is the best Thai food,” instantly dismissing anything vaguely sophisticated as a waste of both time and money. At the end of 2014, all that changed with the arrival of L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, powered by the chef with the most Michelin stars in the world.

Suddenly, Bangkok seemed ready to take on regional fine-dining giants Hong Kong and Singapore, if not Paris and New York, not just because of the woks lining its sidewalks, but thanks to its restaurants, too.

L’Atelier was soon joined by other restaurants affiliated with Michelin-star establishments: J’Aime, by Jean-Michel Lorain, who at the time held three stars for La Côte St.Jacques, in France; Tokyo’s one-star Ginza Sushi Ichi; and Savelberg, which relocated to Bangkok from its one Michelin-star home in the Netherlands.

Just like Singapore, the venerable Michelin Guide has yet to officially set foot here, but these potentially-starstudded openings made it clear Bangkok would definitely get a few “etoiles” if the French critics did show up.

“Nobody knows exactly when Michelin will come, but the general thinking is, when Robuchon comes they come,” says Oliver Kramny, the general manager of Water Library Chamchuri Square, itself one of Bangkok’s most highlyregarded fine-dining restaurants.

International recognition has been slow to come for Bangkok’s chefs. In 2009, the opening of Bo.lan by two of David Thompson’s former staff marked a turn for Thai cuisine. David Thompson himself had earned a Michelin star for his Thai restaurant, Nahm, in London.

And couple Duangporn Songvisava and Dylan Jones were intent on following in Thompson’s footsteps by offering a fine-dining atmosphere, food made from scratch and no compromises to accommodate foreign palates. For the first time, a high-end Thai restaurant was doing spicy dishes at the kind of heat levels more commonly found in Thai homes and on the street.

David Thompson soon followed Bo and Dylan back to the Kingdom, opening Nahm, and with the debut of Sra Bua (a sister of Kiin Kiin, in Copenhagen), Bangkok suddenly had two Thai restaurants with connections to one-Michelin-star restaurants in Europe. In 2014, Thailand went on to grab two spots in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Nahm ranked 13th, and Gaggan, a molecular Indian restaurant helmed by chef Gaggan Anand, ranked 17th.

“If you talk about authentic, genuine dining experiences, then Bangkok is the ultimate place in Asia for that hands down,” says Mason Florence, World’s 50 Best Restaurants regional chairperson for Southeast Asia and the North. “It’s thanks to places that are chef driven; and driven by young, vibrant, internationally minded Thais.”

Among them is Zra Jirarath of Aston Dining Room, who himself has had to struggle to gain acceptance as a Thai chef doing Western fine-dining. He sees only positives in the arrival of big-names from abroad. “The opening of L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon really showed local chefs how things are meant to be done, both in terms of food and service. I really welcome it.

It sets the standards,” he says.

Vichit Mukura, who for 28 years was head chef at the Mandarin Oriental’s classic Thai restaurant, Sala Rim Naam, agrees: “It’s good to have Michelin chefs here so Thais can get a taste of the world’s finest cuisines, and learn how to develop our own. But we should know our food best; not wait for foreigners to tell us.”

Vichit recently left the hotel to open his own, contemporary chef’s table restaurant, Khao. It’s one of a number of new, Thai-driven openings like Osha and Siam Wisdom that are not shying away from top-quality produce, elegant dining rooms and traditional flavors.

In a city with such a rich food heritage, it might sound odd to attribute the opening of a French restaurant, even one by the man with the most Michelin stars in the world, as a watershed moment. And for Thai food as a whole, it probably isn’t. But when it comes to fine-dining, this time will definitely be remembered as the moment Bangkok joined the big league.

ESSENTIALS Nahm Metropolitan, 27 Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3388. Open daily 7-10:30pm; Mon-Fri noon-2pm. www.comohotels.com J’aime by Jean-Michel Lorain U Sathorn Bangkok, 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli, Sathorn Rd., 02-119-4899. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. www.jaime-bangkok.com L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon 5/F, Mahanakorn Cube, 96 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0698.

Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. www.robuchon-bangkok. com Khao 64 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 098-829-8878. Open daily 6:30-11pm.

Siam Wisdom, Sra Bua, Osha, Gaggan, Bo.lan see Dining, page 46

OSHA

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DINING Enjoy a memorable meal at the city's leading restaurants.

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SILOM

22 KITCHEN & BAR 22/F, Dusit Thani, 946 Silom Rd., 02-200-9000. MRT Silom. Open daily 4pm-midnight, 6-10pm. www.dusit. com/dusitthani/bangkok California-born Nikolas Ramirez helms the kitchen, bringing with him influences from his Hawaiian and Latin roots. The menu focuses on Pacific coastal cuisine like the fresh and simple scallop carpaccio with corn and avocado salsa as well as Nikkei (Peruvian-Japanese fusion) dishes like grilled Maine lobster with "ramen gnocchi" and miso tea. The signature drinks also fit the theme well, like the rum-based Catch 22. Added bonus: the panoramic views of Lumphini Park from the Dusit's top floor.

LE DU 399/3 Silom Soi 7, 092-919-9969.

BTS Chong Nonsi. Open Mon-Sat 6-11pm. www.ledubkk.com A Thai chef with a degree from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) powers this inventive Asian restuarant.

His dishes focus heavily on local and seasonal produce, which are prepared using modern cooking techniques to produce original and delicious food that clearly evokes Thai flavors while challenging diners' senses. The wine list is equally exciting, with bottles sourced only from organic producers or boutique importers.

NAMSAAH BOTTLING TRUST 401 Silom Soi 7, 02-636-6622. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 5pm-2am. www.namsaah.com One of the partners at this new venue, set in a 100-year-old house painted pink, is aclaimed chef Ian Kittichai.

His menu is all about twists on Asian comfort food, like pad Thai with duck and foie gras or salmon tartare wonton tacos. Downstairs specializes in cocktails, with a long list of recognizable classics given local twists, while upstairs offers more formal dining in a brightly wallpapered setting.

RUEN URAI Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72. BTS Sala Daeng.

Open daily noon-11pm. www.ruenurai.com This century-old house outfitted with beautiful antiques is just as stunning outside as inside. Paying homage to the original owner, who was a herbal medicine practitioner, the menu incorporates strong herbs and spices such as green peppercorn, wild ginger, galangal and turmeric. Ingredients are of high quality and the curry pastes taste like they're made from scratch. We're particularly drawn to the grilled river prawns with spicy galangal dressing and wild boar sauteed with spicy curry and herbs.

PHLOEN CHIT

LE BEAULIEU

63 Wireless Rd., 02-168-8220. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11:30am3pm, 6:30-11pm. www.le-beaulieu.com Herve Frerard is one of the rare French chefs to have won the hearts of Bangkokians. He doesn't shy from hearty, rustic dishes like the baked Morteau sausage served with a rich tomato lentil sauce and terrine de pot au feu alongside bistro classics like bouillabaisse and sole meuniere. He also uses many fresh, high-quality ingredients imported directly from France, and makes the most of his involvement with the Royal Projects.

OSHA 99 Wireless Rd., 02-256-6555. www. oshabangkok.com Open daily 11am2:30pm, 6pm-midnight Set in a solemn-looking stone pavilion, this restaurant by Thai celebrity chef Thanintorn Tannawan features fancified versions of Thai classics like papaya salad, as well as more inventive creations that incorporate modern cooking techniques. Its main claim to fame is a version of krapaow-nua, a Bangkok street food staple of stir-fried beef with holy basil, here done with wagyu beef. Be sure to try the cocktails, like Osha-Sha—their take on Brazil's classic Caipirinha.

SUSHI HINATA

GAGGAN 68/1 Soi Lang Suan, 02-652-1700.

BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 6pmmidnight. www.eatatgaggan.com

5/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5935. BTS Chit Lom. Open Sun-Thu 11am-10pm; Fri-Sat 11am-noon. www.shin-hinata.com

After building a solid foundation in Indian and Italian cooking at hotel restaurants, Gaggan Anand did a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, the former modern-gastro capital of the world. His eponymous restaurant serving molecular Indian cooking now regularly ranks as one of the best in Asia. Expect foams, spherification, dehydration and more alongside traditional curries.

This sushi specialist with branches in Nagoya and Malaysia is part of a new wave of serious, omakase-service sushi restaurants in Bangkok. Beyond the white, Zen-like facade, the restaurant serves sets of the finest seafood cuts with immaculate attention to detail, with the sushi chef personally applying exactly the right amount of soy sauce to each one. The expertise and skill on show are spectacular.

EAT ME Soi Phiphat 2. Convent Rd., 02-2380931. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 3pm-1am. www.eatmerestaurant.com The decor is a cool, yet cozy, melange of modernist and natural, and features rotating exhibitions by local artists.

Chef Tim Butler's kitchen pulls off bold combinations like Alaskan scallops with avocado, yuzu and pancetta, while a chicken salad is elevated to new heights by the addition of red papaya, toasted coconut and betel leaf.

There are also simple classic dishes such as black truffle and Parmesan risotto and papardelle with rabbit ragu.

The service is diligent and sweet, and the cocktails are perfection.

SUSHI HINATA

LE DU

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SRA BUA BY KIIN KIIN Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. BTS Siam. Open daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm. www.kempinski.com/ bangkok Sra Bua is the Bangkokian sister of Copenhagen's Kiin Kiin, which, after David Thompson's London restaurant Nahm (now in Bangkok), became the second restaurant in the world to receive a Michelin star for cooking Thai food. But this is modern gastronomy, making it very different from the traditional Thai cooking at Nahm. A curry might come with the texture and temperature of ice cream, and bites of lobster can be locked into gelatinous pearls that melt in your mouth with a sip of tom yam broth.

RIVERSIDE

BABBLE & RUM 1-2/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Athit Rd., 02-633-5000. Open daily 6:30-1am. www.rivasurya.com The main restaurant (ground floor) and bar (second floor) of this welcoming riverside hotel next to Phra Arthit Pier are decorated like a contemporary French cafe, finished in dark woods, mirrors and leather-clad couches. An outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area make it the perfect spot for a chilled night out. The menu features Thai and inter-comfort food and plenty of cocktails. Try the Jelly Riva (vodka, melon syrup, lime juice on top of jelly).

THE DECK

SALA RATTANAKOSIN EATERY & BAR

SAMBAL

SHEEPSHANK

Arun Residence 36-38, Soi Phatu Nokyung, Maharaj Rd., 02-2219158/9. Open Mon-Thu 11am-10pm; Fri-Sun 11am-11pm. www.arunresidence.com

Sala Rattanakosin Hotel, Maharaj Rd., 02-622-1388. Open daily 7-10:30am, 11am-4:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. www.salarattanakosin.com

Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 2 Charoen Krung Soi 30, 02-2669214. Open daily 5-10:30pm, 4pm1am. www.royalorchidsheraton.com

47 Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-5165.

Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. www.sheepshankpublichouse.com

This riverside boutique hotel offers stunning views of Wat Arun. The renovated four-story shop-house boasts a small number of guestrooms but half of the building is dedicated to wining and dining, courtesy of chef Tony Wrigley, whose restaurant whips up some pretty impressive Thai food. For us though, the highlight is its rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping a great selection of cocktails.

The stylish riverside venue serves Southeast Asian cuisine with a contemporary touch. Opt to sit under the enormous banyan tree, close to the cabana-like bar and picturesque river scene. Apart from the five-star views, you can expect delightful dishes like the Bali bouillabaisse—rich in both texture and flavor.

There is a good list of tropical-feeling signature cocktails, too, such as Mangkut Drowning: Barbados dark rum with mangosteen puree.

There are many restaurants in Bangkok blessed with the backdrop of the Chao Phraya. Few, however, can boast a spectacle as inspiring as a brightly-lit Wat Arun directly across the river from your table. The kitchen is the domain of a capable, young Thai chef who formerly worked at local French restaurant Le Vendome, and the menu features some surprisingly sophisticated Thai and European dishes made with high-quality ingredients.

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Set in what was once an old shipyard for boats right by Phra Arthit Pier, you can still see some traces of this, in the form of the old pulleys, crates and buoys that adorn the dining area that's been polished up in an industrial style. Enjoy Modern American comfort dishes like the vegetable tagine with almond chickpea couscous and fettucine with black Thai basil and puttanesca sauce. They also serve a decent selection of wines, as well as the Italian craft beer Birra Menabrea.

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SUKHUMVIT

APPIA

20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-2612056. Open Tue-Sun 6:30-11pm; Sun 11:30am-2:30pm. www.appia-bangkok.com This trattoria doing "Roman-style family recipes" ranked in Bangkok's Top Tables 2015 dining guide's Top 10. The rustic dĂŠcor combines a wood paneled ceiling with beams, turn-ofthe-century bistro chairs and rustic chandeliers with little lamp shades. On the food side, the homemade pasta is amazing and the beautiful rotisserie, which roasts pork and chicken to a perfect crisp, never disappoints. You can also expect a carefully curated wine selection and delicious desserts.

BO.LAN 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-29612. BTS Thong Lo. Open Tue-Sun 6-11pm; Thu-Sun noon-2:30pm. www.bolan.co.th Chef couple Bo and Dylan make all their Thai food from scatch, including the curry pastes, using only the best ingredients. Their traditional style (they worked at David Thompson's Michelin-starred Thai restaurant, Nahm), jazzed up with a few modern plating touches, has earned them global recognition. We recommend the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that regularly changes to reflect seasonal products. It's all served in a stylish house that prominently features dark wood and has a ceiling covered with kradong (flat baskets).

PEPPINA 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-119-7677.

MRT Sukhumvit. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-3pm, 6:30pm-midnight. www.peppinabkk.com Wanting to make the most authentic Neapolitan pizza in Bangkok, chef Paolo Vitaletti (of the highly esteemed Appia, which is just around the corner) ordered his massive pizza oven directly from Italy, along with a Neapolitan baker with five years' experience just to make the dough. The result is simply some of the best Italian pizza in town. But Peppina also serves a variety of fresh salads, specialty cold cuts and hearty grilled meats.

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QUINCE

OPPOSITE MESS HALL

SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN

Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Mon-Fri 11-1am; Sat-Sun 10:30-1am. www.quincebangkok.com

2/F, 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-6626330. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6:3011pm. www.oppositebangkok.com

56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 5:30pm-midnight. www.soulfoodmahanakorn.com

Quince serves up casual European food that's light, fresh and bright (meaning local and seasonal) in portions that encourage sharing and eschew the formality of a traditional three-course dinner. Perfectly paired with the Mediterranean flavors, the faux-vintage brasserie meets idyllic country home atmosphere draws a crowd of beautiful people. Thanks to the very solid wine and cocktails menus, Quince is the kind of place that will make you want to stick around until late.

SIAM WISDOM 66 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-260-7811-2.

Open daily noon-2pm, 6-10:30pm. www.siamwisdomcuisine.com Set in a traditional Thai house, this is one of the rare fine-dining restaurants that is both doing authentic Thai cuisine and helmed by an actual Thai chef.

Chumpol Jangprai uses high-quality produce sourced from the best locations, such as shrimp paste from Klong Khon, palm sugar from Petchburi and sturgeon's roe from the Royal Projects in Northern Thailand. The results are seldom seen dishes like gaeng buan (herbal soup with pork offal) and pla nam pork sausage.

Australian chef Jess Barnes's food draws on both Mediterranean and Asian influences while focusing on local produce.

The fuss-free nature of the place means dishes like the gua bao (steamed Chinese bun) are often best eaten with your fingers or shared with friends (there's a big emphasis on large cuts). The decor is almost entirely bare except for tactile wooden furniture and a long bar in front of the narrow kitchen. The flavor-packed veggie dishes also have to be tried.

PASTE 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49 (opposite Samitivej Hospital), 02-392-4313.

Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. www.pastebangkok.com Chef Jason Bailey takes inspiration from traditional Thai cuisine, but also makes the most of modern techniques, artful presentation and some personal twists.

And what produce! Every mint leaf, every pickled chili is bursting with flavor.

You can tell it's all made from scratch and, where possible, from locallysourced ingredients. The atmosphere is intimate and suitably plush, the renovated shophouse dominated by a deep red sofa that runs along one side.

The restaurant dishes out very potent (double pours, actually) original signature cocktails like the Bun Bang Fai (a mix of tequila, lime, chilli, almond syrup and egg white) as well as a brief menu of perfectly executed Thai regional dishes like gaeng hang lay, (Burmese pork belly curry) and pad krapao made with Australian lamb.

This winning combo has seduced those seeking authentic food made with fresh, natural ingredients and served in a comfortable environment.

SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM 160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7508. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm. www.supannigaeatingroom.com This is one of the best Thai restaurants in town. Cozy-yet-chic, it serves a menu based on dishes the owner's grandmother used to cook—Thai food that borrows both from her hometown on the Eastern seaboard, Trat, and where the family now lives, Khon Kaen. Do try the moo cha muang (pork with Guttiferae tree leaves) and pla too tod (deep-fried mackerel), along with the cocktails and mocktails made with intriguing local ingredients.

THONGLOR/EKKAMAI

LITTLE BEAST

44/9-10 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2670.

Open Tue-Sat 5:30pm-1am; Sun 11am4pm. www.littlebeastrestaurant.com This small restaurant takes after New York-style gastro bars, serving New American cuisine and creative cocktails in a 1920s atmosphere. The Culinary Institute of America-trained chef, Rangsima Bunyasaranand, turns out dishes with a nose-to-tail focus like the homemade charcuterie plate (pork rillete, head cheese terrine and pork and veal) and jerk chicken hearts with pineapple salsa. Recommended cocktails include the rum-heavy Smokey Morning and fruity, vodka-based Femme Fatale.

PASTE

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BEYOND BOOZE After a wave of craft beers and molecular cocktails, Bangkok is rediscovering that good spaces, good company and good music are just as important. By Carl Dixon

J. BOROSKI MIXOLOGY

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I

n recent years, Bangkok’s nightlife scene has had a welcome injection of sophistication on the drinks front. Whether it’s the imported craft beers of Beervana, Mikkeller’s stellar selection of small-batch brews, or the crafty cocktail concoctions of messrs Joseph Boroski at J. Boroski Mixology, Vipop Jiriaphan at Sugar Ray or Mirko Gardelliano at Bamboo Bar, drinking in the city has never been so good. But there’s also been another, more subtle shift in the types of venues people are choosing to frequent. Across the city, from the historic Charoenkrung Road to rising Phra Khanong, smaller venues are springing up to blur the lines between art, music, drinking and community.

At the forefront of this trend is a recent revival that’s seen some of the city’s old shop-houses transformed into galleries, art spaces and bars that bring creative sights and sounds to unlikely residential or traditional neighborhoods. Far from the bright lights of Thonglor or Siam, the likes of Chinatown’s Soy Sauce Factory, a galleryslash-nightlife venue set in an actual old soy sauce factory, pulls in a cool, art-conscious crowd with its photography exhibitions from big names in the region. Across town, beyond Ekkamai in the rising Phra Khanong district, GOJA manages a similar feat, but its focus is more on showcasing Bangkok’s burgeoning street art and EDM scenes, with exhibition openings that resemble a night at a heaving, albeit tiny, nightclub. These venues, with their savvy use of social media, have built a swelling following for their diverse lineups, from theater performances to artist talks to, well, good old-fashioned parties.

The past 12 months have seen Bangkok’s hippest crowds also move to the once nightlife-free streets of Chinatown. Joining Soy Sauce in the neighborhood have been a number of smaller, unconventional venues, including art-space-for-hire Cho Why, live music venue Soulbar and bars-slash-galleries El Chiringuito and Bridge. And there’s more to come. Speaking of his choice of location, Thomas Menard, the French national behind Soy Sauce Factory, said, “For me the Old Town is the center of the city. It’s close to Silom, Hua Lamphong, the riverside. It’s a gamble that the area is going to take off, but you come here to be a part of something different. In Thonglor, you can spend a lot of money on a place and in the first year things will be buzzing, you’ll make a lot of that back, but it’s hard to make it last.”

This trend of small, multidisciplinary spaces is not an overnight sensation, though. The opening of WTF Bar & Gallery in 2010 is largely credited with kick-starting the city’s bar and gallery trend. Other venues have come and gone, but this expat favorite continues to host thoughtprovoking exhibitions, gigs, and the occasional block party, while also serving as a simple spot for friends to catch up over drinks. Similarly, over in Surasak, Jam has been pairing regular exhibitions, DJ sets, cult movie screenings and garage sales with cheap drinks since its opening in 2012.

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Mikkeller 22 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-381-9891. Open daily 5pm-midnight. www. mikkellerbangkok.com J. Boroski Mixology 125/13 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (between Thonglor soi 5 and 7), 02-712-6025. www.sipslowly.com Sugar Ray Ekkamai Soi 21, 094-417-9898.

Open Wed, Fri, Sat 8pm-2am. www.facebook.com/sugar-rayyouve-just-been-poisoned Soy Sauce Factory 11/1 Charoenkrung soi 24, 061-835-6824.

Open Tue-Sat noon-11pm www.soysaucefactory.com GOJA 10/5 Sukhumvit soi 67, 087-112-7774.

Open daily 6pm-1am. www. facebook.com/gojaphrakanong Cho Why 17 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd. Open for events. www. facebook.com/chowhybkk Soulbar 945 Charoenkrung Rd., 083-092-2266. Open Tue-Sat 6pm-midnight. www.facebook. com/livesoulbarbkk

SOULBAR

ESSENTIALS

MIKKELLER

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SMALLS

GOJA

Among this new wave of shop-house transformations are some more conventional bars that nevertheless add diversity to Bangkok’s nightlife scene. One of the most exciting new live music spots in the capital is Thonglor’s Studio Lam, the latest project by Bangkok DJ Maft Sai, one of the guys behind the globally renowned Zudrangma Records. More than most live venues, the bar feels like a genuine community, pulling in one of the city’s coolest crowds thanks to its adventurous nightly DJ sets and bands. Here, the focus is on forgotten mo lam and luk thung sounds from Thailand’s Northeast, along with traditional drinks like ya dong (a Thai spirit infused with herbs and spices) to match.

Elsewhere, Smalls on Soi Suan Phlu and the aforementioned Soulbar in Talad Noi have brought regular live music to unlikely settings. The former, situated in a three-story corner house in a low-key residential area, plays host to regular jazz performances, served up with plenty of absinthe shots and cocktails. The people behind Soulbar, meanwhile, transformed a shop-house in one of

SUGAR RAY

Bangkok’s oldest neighborhoods into the city’s first bar dedicated solely to live soul and funk performances. It’s the twists that make it most memorable, though, like the bar stools hewed from industrial clutter found in the neighborhood.

Romain Dupuy, one of the partners in Soulbar, alongside a star lineup including members of famous Thai rockers Apartmentkhunpa, explained that his decision to set up shop in one of the city’s most historic neighborhoods was first met with opposition from locals, who were fearful of a repeat of backpacker-central Khao San. But that soon changed. “We send a lot of our guests to local eateries, and in turn they help us get customers,” he said. “I hope more people are encouraged to create small and sincere restaurants or bars around Talad Noi or Chinatown. We chose the place for its spirit and soul. There are plenty of other spaces, and the investment is low— people need to act fast before the big promoters destroy the heart of the city for the wrong reasons.”

ESSENTIALS El Chiringuito 211 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd, 086,340-4791. Open Thu-Sat 6pm-midnight. www.facebook. com/elchiringuitobangkok Bridge Charoenkrung Soi 51, 086-986-9421. Open Mon, Wed-Sun 10am-10pm. www.facebook.com/ bridgeartspace WTF 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-6626246. Open Tue-Sun 6pmmidnight. www.wtfbangkok. com Jam 41 Charoen Rat Soi 1, 083-545--1833. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. www.facebook. com/jamcafebkk Studio Lam Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661.

Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. www.zudrangmarecords.com Smalls 186/3 Suan Phlu Soi 1, 085-585-1398. Open Mon,Wed-Sun 7:30pm-2am. www.facebook.com/smallsbkk

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NIGHTLIFE From craft beer emporiums to sleek wine bars, Bangkok boasts an eclectic after-dark scene.

BAMBOO BAR

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SIAM/SILOM/SATHORN

KU BAR (KU DE TA)

39/F, Sathorn Square, 98 Sathorn Rd., 02-108-2000. BTS Chong Nonsi.

Open Mon-Tue 11am-11:30pm, WedSun 11-2am. www.kudeta.com The Japanese-inspired Ku Bar is located on the 39th floor, between restaurants Izakaya and Signature, and serves Japanese aperitifs for those waiting to be seated or gearing up for a big night. The dimly lit bar carries plenty of sophisticated touches, like the black granite countertop, while their signature cocktails focus on Japanese spirits and Asian ingredients, with flavors to suit Bangkok's climate, like the Storm Cooler with passion fruit, lime, honey, and vodka, and the Hurricane Lychee with lychee, egg white, soda and gin.

MAGGIE CHOO'S Underground/F, Hotel Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 091-772-2144. BTS Surasak. Open Mon-Thu and Sun 7:30pm-2am; FriSat 7:30pm-3am This elegant bar evokes colonial outposts, the Pax Britannica of Queen Victoria, the decadence of opium or gambling dens, steamy exoticism (and steaming noodles on your way in), James Bond movies and gentlemen's clubs. You can usually expect some kind of entertainment: a band, a DJ accompanied by a percussionist and beautiful ladies in cheongsam dresses lazing about. The cocktail menu is sweet, fruity and aromatic.

MOON BAR 61/F, The Banyan Tree, 21/100 Sathorn Rd., 02-679-1200. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.banyantree.com Legendary for its heart-stopping 61-story views of the scattered city lights, this was one of the first rooftop places in town. It's still hard to beat the vertiginous 360-degree views offered up by this small al fresco bar atop the Banyan Tree Hotel. It does mean that it is already on many visitors' radar and usually gets busy, but it's worth it if you can snag a seat for sundown.

RED SKY 55/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-6255.

BTS Siam. Open daily 6pm-1am. www.centarahotelsresorts.com/redsky The 55th floor view from Centara's rooftop puts this bar in the same league as high flyers like Moon Bar (see this page). Al fresco dining and drinking takes place under a swooping, red-lit arch in an environment that is somewhat more relaxed than the adjoining Fifty Five restaurant. Chef Hugo Coudurier prepares a menu focused on high-quality French ingredients, best enjoyed with a drop from the hotel's notably excellent wine cellar.

SMALLS 186/3 Suanphlu Soi 1, 095-585-1398.

Open Wed-Sun 7:30pm-2am; Mon 7:30pm-2am This laidback, late-night cocktail lounge is set in a corner-shop-house and split over three levels including a roof terrace with really great street views. The eclectic crowd ranges from older guests who come to nurse a drink while listening to live jazz, to young groups of friends always keen to check out the most buzzed about places in town. The bar specializes in absinthe, but there are some excellent cocktails, too.

RIVERSIDE

BABBLE & RUM See page 48.

BAMBOO BAR 1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoenkrung Soi 6, 40 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. BTS Saphan Taksin.

Open Sun-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. www.mandarinoriental. com/bangkok Opened back in 1953, this hotel bar is one of the city's oldest live jazz institutions. Singers take the mic at 9pm daily, accompanied by music from a baby grand and surrounded by framed portraits of jazz legends who've passed through over the years. What's more, the bar also does some of the best cocktails in town, whether its signature classics like the Mekhong rum-laced Thaijito or elaborate, molecular concoctions like the Raspberry Nitrogen Sorbet.

THE DECK See page 48.

SALA RATTANAKOSIN EATERY & BAR See page 48.

THREESIXTY JAZZ LOUNGE Millenium Hilton Bangkok, 123 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-442-2000. www.bangkok.hilton.com Open daily 5pm-1am For pretty views without the wind, the Three Sixty Bar's location on the 32nd floor of a riverside hotel lets you watch barges navigate the Chao Phraya as you comfortably sit by the slanted windows and sip on a cocktail or glass of wine. Aim to get there just before sunset to enjoy the stunning views of the twilight sky over Wat Arun and the Grand Palace along the river.

VIVA AVIV B/F, River City Shopping Complex, 23 Yotha Rd., 02-639-6305. www. vivaaviv.com Open daily 10:30ammidnight This venue has a pirate theme with a dash of industrial chic: the bar is made out of old wooden crates, with lobster traps accessorizing the walls and sailboat hardware hanging from the ceiling. Soak up the river view and enjoy bistro-style food and inventive, wellmade cocktails like the Pina Colasi (Appleton Jamaican rum, fresh pineapple, orange and black pepper syrup, citrus and fresh young coconut foam).

VESPER 10/15 Convent Rd., 02-235-2777.

BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm; Sun-Thu 5pmmidnight; Fri-Sat 5pm-1am The elegant blend of gentlemen’s club and European bistro looks to appeal to serious cocktail drinkers. The imposing marble bar is packed with uncommon spirit bottles and oak barrels and serves cocktails courtesy of a bar team led by Colin Tait from Scotland.

The food is refined European comfort dishes, namely Italian and some Spanish options, designed by Luca Appino of respected Italian restaurant La Bottega di Luca.

MAGGIE CHOO'S

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THONGLOR/EKKAMAI

HOT ROD

Room A103, G/F, Park Lane, Sukhumvit Soi 63, 02-714-2575. BTS Ekkamai. Open daily 6pm-midnight From the same designer behind the Dickensian-themed Iron Fairies (see this page) and the 1930s Shanghai-inspired Maggie Choo's (see page 55), this small bar and restaurant dishes out a sophisticated menu of creative or rare Thai dishes and elaborate cocktails. Join the dozen happy few who can fit at its circular bar and nibble on Northern-style terrine while sipping on a mix of rum and jackfruit.

THE IRON FAIRIES 404 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02714-8875. Open daily 6pm-2am.

Designed by Bangkok nightlife mogul Ashley Sutton, the Iron Fairies is like no other bar in Bangkok—a Dickensian factory with crumbling brick walls and a scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make miniature metal fairies. After relocating to much larger premises in 2013, the bar has set up a solid list of live blues and jazz bands who perform nightly. Be sure to try the powerful signature cocktails.

MIKKELLER

SUGAR RAY

BANGKOK BETTY

26 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-381-9891.

Open daily 5pm-midnight. www.mikkellerbangkok.com

Baan Ekkamai, Ekkamai Soi 21, 086-547-4633. Open Wed, Fri and Sat 8pm-2am

G/F, Holiday Inn, 1 Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-663-4223. BTS Phrom Phong.

Open daily 6pm-1am

This craft beer stronghold is set in a great location away from the main street in one of the charming mid-century residential houses scattered around Ekkamai. It's linked to the Danish Brewery of the same name, known for its unique, small-batch beers, and is the first Mikkeller bar in Asia. There's also a resident chef who hosts some fun garden barbecues and offers a regular a la carte food menu.

This collaboration between some of Bangkok's hippest of hipsters is tiny, moody and dedicated to seriously good cocktails. Sit around the apothecary table mixing station, surrounded by jars of home-infused spirits, and watch as the leather-aproned barman crafts your old-school drink with care.

This bar is styled to look like a midcentury American bomb factory: pin-up girls, big chrome cylinders and sootcovered brick columns. It's nothing like what you'd expect from a Holiday Inn, even attracting a big local crowd thanks to cool, Allied Forces-themed cocktails and a prime central location.

SUKHUMVIT

GRAMERCY PARK

APOTEKA

OCTAVE

33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-6150909. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am; Sun 3pm-midnight. www.apotekabkk.com

45/F, Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-1am. www.bangkokmarriott.com The bar's trendy-but-mature vibe is accentuated by striking views from the top floor of the Marriott Sukhumvit hotel. The first level features a long balcony filled with sculptural sofas, above which are a couple of private rooms and a third tier with 360-degree views around a circular bar. DJs play not-too-loud funky house to a crowd of young executives and hotel guests drinking classic cocktails with slight twists. The food focuses on Asianthemed bar snacks.

Nineteenth-century apothecary decor matches drinks with names like Penicilin and Mr. Hyde at this popular cocktail bar. They also have a decent list of craft beer and menu of standard bar food. All this makes it a big hit with the pre-clubbing crowd.

35/F, Fraser Suites, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111. BTS Nana. Open daily 6pm-1:30am Like downstairs neighbor Above Eleven, this rooftop bar features lots of bright furniture and a garden vibe, plus graffiti by local artists. As well as a decent list of wine by the glass, cocktails and draft beers, they also specialize in raw food. We recommend the ceviche coupled with a Summer Jardin cocktail (Grey Goose, cherry blossom syrup, lime and grapefruit juice).

LEVELS 6/F, Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246. BTS Nana. Open daily 9pm-3am. www.levelsclub.com Decked out with a huge LED chandelier above a circular bar and a bunch of monochrome sofas surrounding a sizeable dance floor, Levels aims for a rather swanky audio-visual clubbing experience with international DJs regularly dropping by. The drinks list is quite standard but slightly cheaper than what's offered by its Soi 11 competitors.

There's a garden-like terrace bar offering a rather more relaxed way to spend your night.

OSKAR 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255-3377.

BTS Nana. Open daily 4pm-2am. www.oskar-bistro.com

HOT ROD

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GRAMERCY PARK

This hybrid restaurant-bar sits down a street well known for its buzzing nightlife, and packs a lot of things under one roof: a hearty menu, a long list of drinks and a DJ. The decor is fuss-free, and so is the French comfort food, even though the chef, Julien Lavigne, is classically trained and worked with the Michelinstarred Pourcel brothers.

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GOING LOCAL Thailand’s best young creative talent is turning to traditional craft skills to produce cutting-edge designer products.

By Vasachol Quadri

THINKK STUDIO

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T

ISSUE

he big trend in Bangkok design circles for the past year has been to trace back to the roots of Thai craftsmanship. Rather than looking to the runways and furniture shows of Europe and the United States for inspiration, local designers have been reinvigorating their products by combining new technology with Thai tradition.

Celebrated local product designer Anon Pairot, the curator of the Asian Talents section at the annual Bangkok International Gift and Houseware Fair, explains why history is an important part of shaping local design. “It’s not just the look of an object that matters, but the story behind it,” he says. “Someone may want to buy jasmine rice spa products because they have good memories of jasmine rice, not just because of the beautiful bottle. Design helps connect those dots.”

One Thai design company intent on doing just that is Thinkk Studio. Interior designers Ploypan Theerachai and Decha Archjananun have shot to worldwide fame for exhibiting their minimal, Scandinavian-leaning products at major fairs like Milan Design Week and Paris Maison & Objet. But recently, they’ve been looking inwardly, turning to Thai craftspeople to incorporate skills like rattan weaving into products which fit their subdued, contemporary aesthetic. The result is sister-brand Thingg (available at Jam Factory), which produces lampshades woven from palm leaves in cooperation with the Support Arts and Crafts International Centre of Thailand (SACICT).

“We had the opportunity to work with SACICT to develop some products with Thai villagers and found many interesting skills as well as materials that could be developed for the international design market,” says Ploypan, one of Thinkk’s founding partners. So we set up Thingg to liven up Thai craftsmanship, which had become quite stagnant, and to generate income for local craftspeople.”

As well as working with palm leaf-weavers on the Sarn lampshade, they’ve now also collaborated with ceramic artists from Northern Thailand on the Jedee lamp, and marble craftsmen in Saraburi to produce stackable containers. Now, they’re collaborating on similar projects with other members of Bangkok’s design circles, like Pat Dharmajiva, founder of Happ Design, with whom they’ve produced the Veave (available at Room Concept Store) series of outdoor furniture. Together, they’ve worked with Thai and Indonesian weavers to create dining chairs, side tables, easy chairs and ottomans out of synthetic rattan. The result is functional furniture with clean designer lines.

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The multi-disciplinary design studio Trimode (available at Myth) is also contemporizing traditional products. Like Thinkk’s designers, it too spent time working with SACICT to redesign existing Thai products. One of the brand’s members, Pirada Senivong na Ayudhya, has now built on that knowledge by forming the Found by Trimode jewelry line. Highlights of the project include Doipui, a modern-meets-traditional Hmong embroidered hat; Nakhon Ratchasima, jewelry made with buffalo, ox and yak horns using metal coating techniques; and Nong Bua Daeng, hand-woven cotton hats and totes colored with natural indigo and ebony dyes.

The owner and founder of PDM Brand (available at Kenkoon), Doonyapol Srichan, has used the same reinventive approach to take on mass-produced modern products. By using the production facilities employed to make the cheap plastic picnic mats of a kind found all over Thailand, she has created a line of simple but utterly stylish graphic rugs that have caught the attention of Bangkok’s most design-savvy city-dwellers.

Rattapol “Thum” Sakdadamnusorn, the editor-in-chief of the popular Thai interior design magazine Room, explains the trend. “It’s like an extension of hipster culture,” he says. “The concept of ‘slow life’ has been taking over the design scene. More and more people are looking for

KAMUILIM

that unique touch. I don’t mean hipsters riding bikes or planting their own vegetables, but rather the considered process of how we want to spend our lives. We’re looking for simpler, more timeless designs.”

Thai fashion designers have also been borrowing from the old-school for their print designs. Preecha Lim, the owner of Kamuilim Fine Arts & Decor, has used inspiration from the decoration of Thai temples for his latest collection of printed twill silk handkerchiefs. Elsewhere, the cult brand Issue, long known for its use of South Asian-inspired prints, has looked to Thai literature from the reigns of Kings Rama IV and Rama V (1851-1910) for its latest spring/summer collection.

Finding these design-forward Thai products might not be as easy as strolling round Chatuchak Market or the streets of Siam Square, but they are readily available. One space dedicated to the very best of Thai design is The Jam Factory, a compound containing a gallery, book store, restaurant and architect offices just a short boat ride from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin). Also be sure to check out the Room Concept Store in the luxury Central Embassy retail mall, which specializes in contemporary Thai furniture, and the third floor of Siam Center shopping mall for fashion.

ESSENTIALS The Jam Factory 41/4 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-861-0955.

Kenkoon Thonglor Soi 10., 02-711-5701/2 Myth Gaysorn Plaza, Ploenchit Rd., 081-818-5851.

BTS Chit Lom Kamuilim Fine Art & Decor Available at the Mandarin Oriental Shop, 48 Oriental Avenue, 02-659-9000 Issue 266/10 Siam Square Soi 3, 02-658-4416. BTS Siam Room Concept Store 4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd. 02-119-7777. BTS Chit Lom/Phloen Chit Siam Center, Rama1 Rd. BTS Siam

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SHOPPING From luxury malls to hectic markets, Bangkok is packed with retail delights.

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SHOPPING CENTERS

MARKETS

CENTRAL EMBASSY

CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET

1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-119-7777.

Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit.

Next to Chatuchak Park, Kamphaeng Phet Rd. BTS Mo Chit. Open Sat-Sun 10am-8pm

Luxe fashion brands Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin and Jil Sander alongside high-end local restaurants. There's also a deluxe cinema on the sixth floor.

The sprawling web of 15,000 stalls sells anything from food, furniture, books, plants, clothes and antiques to puppies and exotic pets. Section 3, just outside the Kamphaeng Phet MRT station, is the most design-forward part of the market.

CENTRALWORLD 999/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-635-1111. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Chit Lom Seven floors of restaurants, cinemas and stores: Topshop, Gap and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites like Singha Life and Disaya.

THE EMQUARTIER Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am10pm High-end boutiques including flagship stores from MCM, Jimmy Choo, Valentino, Sephora and A Bathing Ape, plus cult Asian brands Stylenanda (Korea) and Beams (Japan). The striking development features a 40-meter-high manmade waterfall as well as vast open green spaces.

SIAM CENTER Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000 ext 3500.

BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm Home to some of the very best Thai fashion brands. Greyhound offers contemporary clothing with a focus on menswear, while Senada features classically feminine pieces. Other brands worth checking out include Milin (youthful yet sexy), Fly Now (sophisticated, tailored) and Disaya (playful and edgy). Be sure to also drop by The Selected multi-label store.

DAMNOEN SADUAK Ratchaburi 03-224-1023. Open daily 6am-noon.

Experience photogenic scenes straight from tourism brochures of canals packed with rowing boats. The market has been a trading spot for fresh fruit and vegetables for several decades and the best way to explore is still to get on a boat and get among the hustle and bustle.

PAK KLONG TALAD From Memorial Bridge to Khlong Lord, Chak Phet Rd At Bangkok's largest flower market, flowers from around Thailand (and the world) arrive before being distributed to hotels, restaurants and small retailers. It's open 24 hours, but the authenthic trading action takes place from from midnight-4am.

SIAM GYPSY JUNCTION 95/20 Bangkok-Nontabuti Rd. Open Wed-Sun 6pm-1am Piles and piles of collectible eye-candy spanning everything from Lego to taxidermied buffalo, movie posters and knickknacks for the home span a shadowy, 1.6-kilometer-long swathe of road beneath an underpass. There are a number of pop-up taverns, too.

SIAM PARAGON

TALAD ROD FAI

991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000.

BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm

Sri Nakarin Soi 51, 081-1827-5885.

Open Thu-Sun 5pm-midnight.

Fashion brands like Marc Jacobs, Hermes and Dolce & Gabbana; Bangkok's largest branch of the Kinokuniya book store, plus Sea Life Ocean World and an Imax theater.

This vintage market's small stalls sell all sorts of retro bric-a-brac, from antique toys and vinyl to secondhand clothes and cameras. Note though, that all the best retro finds are right at the back of the market. Get the BTS to Udomsuk and then take a taxi.

PAK KLONG TALAD

RIVERSIDE

ASIATIQUE THE RIVERFRONT 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488.

Open daily 5pm-midnight. Free ferry from Sathorn Pier. BTS Saphan Taksin Themed according to the city’s architecture of old, it includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashion and intriguing souvenirs, as well as a variety of eateries, beer gardens and wine bars.

Also home to a ferris wheel and several stage shows.

OP PLACE 30/1 Charoenkrung Soi 38, 02-2660186. Open daily 10:30am-7pm. BTS Saphan Taksin The plushly-carpeted halls are home to high-end boutiques selling rare antiques from across Southeast Asia, handcrafted jewelry, bespoke tailors and fine art. There’s also a free shuttle service to the neighboring OP Garden, which houses an art gallery, restaurants and high-end boutiques.

RIVER CITY 23 Trok Rongnamkeang, Yotha Rd., 02-237-0077-78. Open daily 10am10pm. Free ferry from Sathorn Pier.

BTS Saphan Taksin The very best in Thai and Southeast Asian art, antiques and artifacts plus a collection of bars and reataurants on the ground floor, which offer great river views.

THA MAHARAJ 11/1 Maharaj Rd., 02-866-3163-4 This themed community mall looks to recapture the charm of the old town's architecture. The riverside pavilion cosists of over 50 open-air restaurants and shops.

There's also a riverside promenade, garden and Buddhist amulets market.

YODPIMAN RIVER WALK 390/17 Ban Mo Rd., 02-623-6851-55 This neo-classical development features the longest riverside walkway in the Rattanakosin area, filled with shops selling flowers, fashion and Thai handicrafts.

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WELLNESS Relax, unwind and get pampered at Bangkok's leading spas and beauty clinics.

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CLINICS

SPAS

APEX PROFOUND BEAUTY

HEALTH LAND

3/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-644-8613/4. BTS Phrom Phong.

Open daily 10am-9pm .www.apexprofoundbeauty.com

96/1 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-392-2233.

Open daily 9am-midnight. www. healthlandspa.com

If you're trying to solve some skin issues, check out this well established and popoular skin center for state-of-theart treatments from Botox to microdermabrasion. It offers a huge range of treatments covering everything beautyrelated (for both men and women) and prides itself on always staying up to date with technology.

ASTER SPRING L/F, Gaysorn, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-656-1421/2. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.asterspringthailand.com This international chain of skin care and health spas combines German techniques and products to provide effective facial and body treatments.

The philosophy here is no frills and no nonsense, just good skin products that offer real results.

PUTTHARAKSA AESTHETIC 1535 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-6336.

BTS Phra Khanong. Open Mon-Sat 2-8pm . www.puttharaksa.com

Set in a grand, Thai-style building, this is considered one of the best spas in Bangkok thanks to its clean facilities, well-trained staff and wallet-friendly prices. Unlike most street-side massage shops, its Thai massages are done in private rooms. They also have another branch at Sathorn Soi 10.

I.SAWAN RESIDENTIAL SPA & CLUB 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok., 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234.

BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 6am-11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com/hyatt/ pure/spas Designed by Tony Chi, this club-style spa is one of the most beautiful in Bangkok. The setting feels more like a jungle resort than a city spa. Its 7,000 sq-meter space features six residential spa cottages, nine treatment bungalows, a hair salon and a nail bar窶馬ot to mention a modern fitness center, squash and tennis courts plus a 25-meter pool.

KIRIYA SPA

SPA AT FACE

The Lit., Rama 1 Rd., 02-612-3456.

BTS National Stadium. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.litbangkok.com/ residence/kiriya-spa

29 Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-713-6048.

BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 11am-7pm. www.facebars.com/en/bangkok/restaurant/thai-spa

Located in a cavern-like, voluptiously curved space designed by VaSLab, the spa offers different treatments inspired by the four main regions of Thailand.

Try the Southern treatment, a slow, strong massage done with seashells, inspired by the local Nora Dance. This is followed by another massage focusing on blood circiulation, inspired by the Hooli Vali dance.

This spa rolls out massages that utilize old-school principles. Its most popular is the Wat Pho Healer, which starts with your choice of body scrubs using Thai herbs, and an Ayurvedic massage or an herbal compress and oil massage, before focusing on your head, feet, back and shoulder. Afterwards, enjoy a drink at the Face Bar and some food at Hazara Indian restaurant in the same beautiful compound of wooden Thai houses.

PHOTALAI WELLNESS CENTER 28 Soi Yothinpattana 3, Praditmanuthum Road, Klongchan, Bangkapi. 02508-5111, 02-508-1238. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.plp.co.th This 16-acre spa specializing in traditional treatments also features state-ofthe-art leisure facilities and even a golf course. The therapists are trained to deliver authentic Wat Pho-style massage with five-star service. Try the 150-minute Thai Holistic Massage, which combines deep-tissue and acupressure.

Apart from massages, the spa also offers treatments such as the Sesame Scrub and Wrap (90 min) and the Revitalizing Facial (60 min).

THE ORIENTAL SPA Mandarin Oriental, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-659-9000. BTS Saphan Taksin.

Open daily 9am-10pm . www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok/luxury-spa As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, 10 private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Try the 1.5-hour Oriental Signature aromatherapy massage, or a full detoxifying 2.5hour Oriental Organic Journey.

Using products developed in-house, the clinic says its signature Acne Care package not only protects skin from break-outs but also helps reduce acne scars. Other treatments include Absolute Brightening for skin rejuvination and Rejuvenation Complex, during which a machine exercises the flesh deep within your face.

SAMITIVEJ HOSPITAL 133 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-711-8181. www.samitivejhospitals.com Should you ever find yourself in need of medical attention, Samitivej Hospital is one of the best facilities in Thailand.

The hospital boasts 270 beds and 400 specialists across a full range of different wards, as well as multilingual staff catering to various nationalities. There are now Samitivej hospitals across the country, but the Sukhumvit branch, opened in 1979, was the first and includes a full-service dermatology clinic.

THE ORIENTAL SPA

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SIGHTS AND ATTRACTTIONS From stunning temples and contemporary art galleries to fun days out for the kids to blow off steam.

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MUSEUMS

BANGKOK ART AND CULTURE CENTRE (BACC) 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630-8, www.en.bacc.or.th. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm Aside from the contemporary art exhibitions, BACC also contains small, design-centric stores, ranging from cafes and restaurants to book shops. The top floor also boasts a movie theater, complete with a stage for live performances.

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE & ART CENTER Jim Thompson House, Soi Kasem San 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368, www. jimthompsonhouse.com. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm The former home of a CIA agent and the savior of Thai silk is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop.

MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART (MOCA) Room 499, Bejajinda Building, Wiphawadi-Rangsit Rd., 02-953-1111, www.mocabangkok.com. Open TueSun 10am-6pm This 18,000-sq-meter, five-story building in the North of Bangkok is Thailand's biggest private museum and first significant permanent modern art collection open to the public. The works are mostly post 1990s , with plenty of realism and surrealism depicting rural life, religious Buddhist scenes and mythological motifs from the Ramayana.

NATIONAL MUSEUM 4 Na Phra That Rd., 02 224-1404, 02-224-1333. Open Tue-Sun 9am-4pm Once the king's second palace, this gorgeous, if run-down, property houses some of the most impressive architecture, art and antiques in the country.

In addition to historic pieces from the Dvaravati Srivijaya to Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods, the museum features regional arts, Chinese weapons and ancient ceramics.

HISTORICAL SITES

GRAND PALACE

Na Phra Lan Rd., 02-623-5500 ext.3100. Open daily 8:30am-4:30pm Construction on the royal residence of the first king of the current Chakri Dynasty began in 1762. The complex is split into three zones: the Outer Court, where you'll find Wat Phra Kaeo and the Emerald Buddha, Thailand's most sacred Buddha image; the Middle Court, which contains the Dusit Maha Prasat and Chakri Maha Prasat buildings; and the Inner Court, former residence of the royal consorts.

SUAN PAKKAD Sri Ayutthaya Rd., 02-246-1775/6 ext. 229, www.suanpakkad.com. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm Sculptures, furniture and other antiques from the Rama V period that belonged to Prince and Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga are house in ancient pavilions.

VIMANMEK 16 Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300, www.vimanmek.com. Open daily 9:30am-4pm With 12 separate museums, you can easily spend a whole day here. The compound houses the royal museums of photography, textiles and silk, clocks, and more.

The old black and white pictures of the royal family are particularly interesting, but it's the gorgeous teak buildings that are the real stars. Strict dress code (see www.vimanmek.com for details).

WAT MANGKON KAMALAWAT/ CHINATOWN Mangkon Rd., 02-222-3975. Open daily 6am-6pm Built in 1871, this temple was the first and remains one of the most important Chinese temples in Bangkok. Start your exploration of Chinatown, situated along Yaowarat Road, here.

WAT PHO Sanam Chai Rd., 02-255-4771. Open daily 8am-6pm One of the oldest temples in Bangkok, is home to the 43-meter-long reclining Buddha and credited as the birthplace of Thai massage. You can still get massaged or take a class.

WAT MANGKON KAMALAWAT

KIDS

FLOW HOUSE BANGKOK A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-1085210, www.flowhousebangkok.com.

Open daily 10am-midnight

MADAME TUSSAUDS 6/F, Siam Discovery 989, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-0060, www.madametussauds. com/bangkok. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-9pm

Home to FlowRider, a wave machine that lets you try your hand at standup surfing and bodyboarding

The famous wax-work museum features a star-studded lineup of life-like movie stars, politicians and sports figures drawn from all over the world.

SEA LIFE OCEAN WORLD

MOLLY FANTASY

B1-B2/F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-687-2000, www.siamoceanworld.com. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-9pm

5/F, Gateway Mall, 982/22 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-108-2650/-52, www.aeonfantasy.co.th. BTS Ekkamai. Open daily 10am-9pm

More than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. Time your visit for the shark feeding at 1pm and 4pm, or penguin feeding at 12:30pm and 4:30pm. Other happenings on offer include diving with sharks and back-ofhouse visits. Located in the basement levels of Siam Paragon, parents can squeeze in some high-end retail therapy, too.

The amusement arcade is filled with coin-operated rides for children of all ages, while the other half, Kidzoona, is geared at young children and toddlers, offering giant inflatables, a ball pit and the chance to dress up as builders, firemen, chefs and more.

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