Where® Thailand March 2016

Thailand

PLUS

M A RC H 2 0 1 6 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

®

WWW.WHE R E T H A I L A N D.C O M

Bangkok’s best new restaurants Phuket’s Baba heritage

CENTER STAGE

Cultural performances, international artists and dining theater you don’t want to miss LES CLEFS D’OR THAIL AND

THE PREFERRED PUBLICATION OF YOUR HOTEL CONCIERGE

COVER_Mar_2016.indd 1

2/18/16 7:46 PM

TOC_Mar_2016.indd 2

2/18/16 8:50 PM

CONTENTS where

®

l THAILAND l MARCH 2016

The Guide BANGKOK 23 DINING Our favorite spots for classic Thai cuisine in beautiful settings.

4

26 NIGHTLIFE Grab a drink and watch the sun set at Bangkok's top rooftop bars.

ON STAGE

28 SHOPS+SERVICES

Let Bangkok entertain you with concerts, live performances and dinner shows.

10

Brave the heat and snag the best deals at Bangkok's very best markets.

29 HEALTH+WELLNESS

DINING

Rejuvenate your pretty face without going under the scalpel at these beauty specialists.

10 HOT PLATES The best new restaurants to have opened in Bangkok in the past 12 months.

Have fun while getting fit at these new spaces packed with trampolines, surf simulators and more.

AROUND THAILAND 14 CULTURED CITY

31 ART

Phuket Town's baba heritage makes for delicious food and charming architecture.

18

This month's must-visit exhibitions and galleries.

32 NAVIGATE

EXPLORING

Essential tips on getting around.

18 SIAM Shop until you drop in Bangkok's ultimate retail district.

ALSO INSIDE 34 21 THINGS WE LOVE

20 CHINATOWN Some of the city's best street food and heaps of local character abound along Yaowarat Road.

Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon

Where Designer Wariya Whangwaewklang

Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grégoire Glachant

Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Lily Kittisrikangwan, Natcha Saguankiattichai, Bonnie Sananvatananont

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Designer Panita Thiraphapong

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Distribution Manager Suda Angsuputiphant Branded Content Associate Sureepak Janyapat

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, Room A, 100 North Sathorn Rd. Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

30 ATTRACTIONS

www.wherethailand.com

Where Thailand is proud to be an associated publication of the Thailand Chapter of Les Clefs d'Or (the International Concierge Association).

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.

Com

MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

@where_thailand

MARCH 2016 I W HERE THA ILA N D 3

TOC_Mar_2016_NEW.indd 3

2/19/16 6:48 PM

Y

where

ON STAGE

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

DINNER SHOWS JOE LOUIS

SHOW TIME!

The intimate Thai puppet troupe performs various shows spanning from traditional to modern styles at a Thai food restaurant within the Asiatique riverside complex (itself a destination well worth exploring). The troupe claims direct ancestry to Master Sakorn Yangkhiawsod (know as Joe Louis), who in 1901 invented the art of classical Thai small puppets.

Bangkok’s must-see cultural performances, stage productions and upcoming concerts.

Asiatique the Riverfront, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-688-3322. Open Tue-Sun 5-11pm

SALA RIM NAAM The Mandarin Oriental’s signature Thai restaurant, Sala Rim Naam (“Room at the Water’s Edge”) combines classic “royal Thai” cuisine with a theater experience, offering diners a glimpse of local culture as they tuck into their multi-course meals.

Set in a room overlooking the Chao Phraya River and accessed via a quick ferry across the water, the restaurant is considered by many as a “must-try” destination for newly arrived visitors to the city.

Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave., Charoenkrung Rd., 02-659-9000 ext 7333. Open daily noon3pm, 5pm-midnight. BTS Saphan Taksin

BAAN SILAPIN

CULTURAL PERFORMANCES BAAN SILAPIN Also known as "The Artist's House," this century-old wooden house sits on the banks of Bang Luang Canal, the former home of a merchant family, and has been transformed into a public space celebrating traditional Thai culture. This hidden gem is a great place to experience the slow life of old Bangkok, whether that's simply relaxing by the canal, strolling around the ancient homes, sampling traditional drinks, shopping for art or catching the Thai puppet show (daily except Wednesday, arrive before 2pm).

Take a taxi from Wongwian Yai BTS Station. 315 Wat Thongsala Ngam, Phasi Charoen-BangKaa Soi 28 (Phet Kasem), 02-868-5297. Open daily 10am-6pm

SALA CHALERMKRUNG ROYAL THEATER This compact art deco theater built in 1933 is usually the only place in town to catch khon performances, a form of masked dance considered one of Thailand’s finest art forms that was traditionally performed for the royal court, combining extravagant costumes and highly skilled dancers. At this theater, the performance specifically focuses on the story of Hanuman, a white monkey god who commands Rama’s army.

Tickets are B800-1,200.

SALA CHALERMKRUNG

66 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-262-3456. Open Thu-Fri 7:30-11pm

JOE LOUIS

4 W H E R E T H A I LAND I MA RCH 2 0 1 6

FEATURE_01_Mar_2016_2_New.indd 4

2/19/16 6:51 PM

Flight of

Flight of Gibbon.indd 1 FEATURE_01_Mar_2016_2_New.indd 5

2/16/2559 5:22 2/19/16BE6:51 PMPM

Y

where

ON STAGE CONCIERGE PICKS Which shows do you recommend?

Anansak Sakulpanich, Concierge, Shangri-La Hotel I find that usually our guests love to watch something while also getting to enjoy a delicious Thai dinner. For this, I recommend Sala Rim Naam restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental hotel. It serves great authentic Thai food that is accompanied with a traditional dance show, so you get a complete cultural night out at one place.

CALYPSO

Nat Suttikunngeon, Concierge, Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok I’ve found that the Chinese tourists at our hotel love the Calypso show. It’s very entertaining, you can have a drink or two while you’re watching it and they always perform Chinese love songs on top of the show tunes, too.

SIAM NIRAMIT BANGKOK

SIAM NIRAMIT BANGKOK

Panisa Ariyasakul, Concierge, Okura Prestige For guests who don’t want to travel too far, Muay Thai Live at Asiatique is a wonderful option. But admittedly it’s not quite the real thing. For that you must go to Rajadamnern. Trust me, the trip’s worth it!

MODERN STAGE SHOWS CALYPSO The first Broadway-style cabaret show in Bangkok, founded in 1988, consists of 70 artists performing a diverse variety of cultural shows, from Arirang (a Korean classic folk tale) to Kinnaree (a Southeast Asian mythological being) to a contemporary burlesque act. It's all massively kitsch and something of a Bangkok institution.

Tickets are B1,200 for the show only or B2,000 including dinner. Reservations at www.calypsocabaret.com.

Warehouse 3, Asiatique the Riverfront, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-688-1415. Open daily 8:15-9:45pm

CALYPSO

SIAM NIRAMIT BANGKOK This grand visual spectacular draws on the histories of Thailand’s four main regions—the North, the South, the Central Plains and the Northeast—to present an 80-minute history of a nation that delves into its religious beliefs and major festivals. Expect plenty of state-of-theart effects and a full, on-site replica village, as well as a variety of pre-performance cultural activities. Showtime is 8pm, doors open 5:30pm.

Tickets are B1,500-2,350 from www.siamniramit.com.

19 Thiem-Ruammit Rd. Open daily 5-10pm

6 W H E R E T H A I LAND I MA RCH 2 0 1 6

FEATURE_01_Mar_2016_2_New.indd 6

2/19/16 6:51 PM

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

MUAY THAI MUAY THAI LIVE: THE LEGEND LIVES

RAJADAMNERN BOXING STADIUM

This fast-paced live Thai boxing show was created and directed by Ekachai Uekrongtham, the artistic director of Action Theatre in Singapore and director of films like Beautiful Boxer and Pleasure Factory. The stage show features more than just Thai kickboxing, throwing in plenty of swashbuckling action and a sprinkling of romance, all performed by former muay Thai champs and national boxers. Tickets are B1,200-1,500.

Warehouse 4, Asiatique the Riverfront, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd. Open Tue-Sun 8-9:30pm

At Thailand’s most famous muay Thai stadium, dating back to 1941, foreigners get seated ringside while the outer seats are occupied by hard-gambling locals—as much of a spectacle as the fighting. It’s also the definitive place to witness genuine, championship Thai boxing bouts. The beautiful art deco building holds matches for both amateurs and professionals three days a week.

For ticket reservations, visit rajadamnern. com.

1 Rajadamnern Ave. Pom Prap Sattru Pai, 02-2814205. Open Sun-Mon 6:30-11pm; Wed-Thu 3-11pm

RAJADAMNERN BOXING STADIUM

SUAN BUA The warm, invitingly renovated Suan Bua has been dedicated to authentic Thai cuisine for over 30 years. Here we create dishes from every corner of the country, ranging from ultra-spicy southern through to tangy northeastern and milder northern favourites. Come and sample the delicious expression of Chef Santiphap Petchwao’s expertise in a tranquil, modern setting - bright, airy and at one with nature.

RAJADAMNERN BOXING STADIUM

RAJADAMNERN BOXING STADIUM

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND RESERVATION T: 02 541 1234 EXT. 4151 | E: FB_OFFICE@CHR.CO.TH centarahotelsresorts.com/centaragrand/cglb

MARCH 2016 I W HER E THA ILA N D 7

FEATURE_01_Mar_2016_2_New.indd 7

2/19/16 6:52 PM

Y

where

ON STAGE

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

DEATH CAB FOR CUTIE

HITMAN DAVID FOSTER & FRIENDS

MARCH CONCERTS TAKE THAT

5 SECONDS OF SUMMER

March 3, 8pm

Mar 8, 8:30pm

The English pop group promotes their seventh studio album, III, with songs like “Greatest Day”, “Love Love” and “Patience” while also bringing fan-favorites like “Back for Good”, “Rule the World” and “Never Forget” to the stage. Tickets are B2,0005,500 from Thaiticketmajor.com.

The popular Australian pop-rock band brings songs from their latest album Sounds Good Feels Good to town, while also promising performances of their popular singles like “She Looks So Perfect” and “Amnesia”. Tickets are B2,000-7,000 from Thaiticketmajor.com.

Impact Arena Muang Tong Thani

Impact Arena Muang Tong Thani

DEATH CAB FOR CUTIE

2PM

Mar 3, 9pm

March 19, 6pm

The American alt-rock band known for their hits “I Will Follow You Into the Dark” and “You are a Tourist” visit Bangkok as part of their Asian tour to perform tracks like “Black Sun” and “Little Wanderer” from Kintsugi, their eighth studio album released last year. Tickets are B1,800 from Thaiticketmajor.com.

K-Pop fans will not want to miss the popular Korean pop group perform live in Bangkok as the last leg of their world tour. Set under a “house party” theme, expect hits like “Hands Up,” “My House” and “Go Crazy!” Tickets are B1,800-6,000 from Thaiticketmajor.com.

2PM

HITMAN DAVID FOSTER & FRIENDS Mar 16, 8pm The singer, songwriter, producer and musician behind international hits such as “Unforgettable,” “Can’t Help Falling in Love” and “Un-break My Heart” returns to Bangkok after his last concert four years ago, this time collaborating with five other artists including Australian singer Natalie Imbruglia and American rock star Peter Cetera. Tickets are B2,500-10,000 from Thaiticketmajor.com.

Impact Arena Muang Tong Thani

Impact Arena Muang Tong Thani

Moonstar Studio, 701 Lad Phrao Soi 80 8 W H E R E T H A I LAND I MA RCH 2 0 1 6

FEATURE_01_Mar_2016_2_New.indd 8

2/19/16 6:52 PM

+ where I

SINGHA PARK

RAI PLUK RUK

THE GOOD LIFE

Escape the tourist trail and discover these incredible organic andsustainable farming experiences around Thailand.

Singha Park

CORO FIELD

Boasting a massive 8,000 rai of land in Chiang Rai, the country’s biggest farm offers a fun, interactive day out amid the fresh air of the North. The park’s higlight is its Farm Tour, where you’ll get to spend the day picking freshly grown fruits and vegetables to take home, biking around the huge acres of flowers and plants, and playing with animals. For a taste of the organically grown produce, head over to the on-site Bhu Bhirom restaurant that serves up delicious dishes using ingredients straight from the farms.

99 Moo 1, Thambon Maekorn, Chiang Rai, 053172-870. www.fb.com/SinghaparkChiangrai

Pun Pun SAWANBONDIN FARM AND HOMESTAY

If you love getting your hands dirty, this Chiang Mai organic farm is the place for you. Calling itself a “center for self-reliance,” this farm highlights the importance of sustainable living and the self-reliant lifestyle through its seed saving program, use of appropriate technology and eco-friendly products. With a focus on handson learning, visitors are able to spend the day taking part in a series of outdoor workshops, ranging from organic gardening to house building with natural resources, to gain insight into the various ways of sustainable living.

Mae Taeng, Chiang Mai, 081-470-1461. on.fb. me/20V9C0R

Coro Field

PUN PUN

This cute, Japanese-style agro-tourist spot in Ratchaburi provides not only a great escape from Bangkok but an educational and healthy day out. You’ll be able to spend the day hop-

ping between the field’s five zones, touring the massive green house, planting and picking your own vegetables, buying and eating the organically grown produce as well as partaking in DIY workshops to bring souvenirs home.

Don’t forget to sample their melon—you’ll definitely want to bring some back with you.

117 Pha Pok Rd., Tambom Pa Wai, Suan Phueng, Ratchaburi. www.fb.com/corofieldTH

Sawanbondin Farm and Homestay

For a complete getaway destination, head over to this family-run farm in Chiang Rai that specializes in growing a wide array of flowers and plants, from chrysanthemum to bael fruit, using chemical-free methods that can all be used for clean eating. You’ll also be able to spend the night at the on-site rooms which provide a great spot for sitting back with a good book and a cup of herbal tea.

171/12 Moo 4 Soi 1 Rimok, Chiang Rai. www.fb.com/Sawanbondin.farm

Rai Pluk Ruk

You’ll know it’s a treat to be at this farm from the minute you’re greeted with a special organic drink. Run by a sustainability-obsessed Thai couple (also behind Anothai restaurant on Bangkok’s Rama 9 Road), this farm takes pride in its educational tours, which guides you through the detailed process of growing vegetables without the use of any chemicals. Afterwards, you’ll also get a chance to plant your own pot plants to take home as a souvenir.

130 Moo 1, Petchkasem Road, Ratchaburi.

032-389-521. www.fb.com/thaiorganicfood

MARCH 2016 I W HER E THA ILA N D 9

TAT_Mar_2016.indd 9

2/23/2559 BE 11:12 AM

Y

where

DINING

HOT PLATES

Bangkok’s best new restaurants, from fine dining to casual eats.

BANGKOK BOLD COOKING STUDIO

ERR

THAI SOUL FOOD 555 This kiosk focuses on comforting Thai bites and slightly Western variations of local street food, including the Risky Chicken (fried chicken and somtam with Sriracha mayo on a brioche bun), Khao Soy Cowboy (pulled pork in khao soy curry with sweet potato and mustard pickles or Australian wagyu pad krapao (fried rice with basil).

If the whole thing screams Brooklyn, it may come as no surprise that Soul Food also supplies some of these dishes to hip New York hangout Baby’s All Right.

G/F, The Commons, 335/1 Thonglor Soi 17, 02-1014526. Open daily 11am-midnight

BAA GA DIN

BAAN

One of a vanguard of restaurants that seek to tweak tried-and-tested street food favorites, Baagadin presents a modern twist to roadside specialties like chicken wings and oyster omelets. The brainchild of Thitid Tassanakajorn (see Baan, opposite), Baagadin also serves an inventive cocktail menu in a friendly, bistro atmosphere that lures large groups who want the casual experience of Thai street food without all the hassle.

Specializing in “home-style” dishes utilizing organic rice and veggies and free-range meat and eggs, Baan—which means “home” in Thai—is one of the growing constellation of restaurants in chef Thitid Tassanakajorn’s dining empire, and features recipes cooked up by his very own family. Standout dishes include a kai palo-tom sap hybrid (Chinese-style five-spiced egg soup flavored with Isaan-style spices) and deep-fried sun-dried pork.

Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-662-3813. Open Wed-Sun 6-11pm; Mon 6-11pm

139/5 Wireless Rd., 02-655-8995. Open Wed-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm; Mon 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. MRT Lumphini

10 W H E R E T H A I LAND I MA RCH 2 0 1 6

Feature_02_Mar_2016_2_New.indd 10

2/19/16 6:54 PM

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

BANGKOK BOLD COOKING 80/20 STUDIO Drawing on

SOUL FOOD 555

Located in the charming streets of Bangkok’s Old Town, this space offers a cooking school, gallery, co-working space and chef’s table, all rolled into one. To eat here, you must gather a group of 6-10 people in order for the chefs (all of whom come from impeccable Thai cuisine backgrounds including work at the internationally-praised Nahm) to walk you through seven courses of delicious traditional Thai food spanning amuse bouche, appetizers, three dishes to eat with rice and two desserts.

skills honed at Toronto’s Creme Brasserie, co-owner/chef Napol Jantraget creates food that’s 80-percent local, 20-percent creative tweaks in dishes like the flavorful garden salad (yu choy and chayote shoots, bougainvillea leaves and more with cream-based dry shrimp lime dressing) or the 80/20 Caesar salad (sauteed brussel sprouts, melting pork belly confit and dressing salted by shrimp paste). Desserts

by Saki Hoshino (try the warm molten chocolate with chili ice cream) and cocktails are no afterthought either.

503 Phra Sumen Rd., 098-829-4310. Open daily 9am-10:45pm

1052-1054 Charoenkrung Rd., 095-843-2056. Open Wed-Sun 5pm-midnight; Mon 5pm-midnight

BAAN

LUXX BAAGADIN

ERR The chef duo behind Bangkok’s Thai fine dining institution Bo.lan have brought their expertise to a new genre of modern, casual Thai cuisine.

Their latest project is set in a retro shop-house just down the street from Wat Pho, where they’ve trained their chefs to whip up rejuvenated versions of Thailand’s best drinking snacks. The menu comprises dishes intended to be shared among friends alongside cocktails.

394/35 Maharaj Rd., 02-622-2291. Open Tue-Sun 11am-midnight

SILOM +662 635 8800 reservations@staywithluxx.com LANGSUAN +662 684 1111 reservationsxl@staywithluxx.com

www.staywithluxx.com

stay with LUXX in bangkok

LUXXhotel MARCH 2016 I W HER E THA ILA N D 11

Feature_02_Mar_2016_2_New.indd 11

2/19/16 6:54 PM

Y

where

DINING EUROPEAN THE DINING ROOM AT THE HOUSE ON SATHORN Passing through Chong Nonsi you can’t help but notice this beautifully restored house in eye-catching canary yellow. The building formerly housed Bangkok’s Soviet Embassy, but has been turned into a den of indulgence by the W Bangkok, now offering eclectic dining, bespoke cocktails and lavish parties. Chef Fatih Tutak’s experience working in kitchens around the Asia-Pacific region results in Asian-inspired creations like “Hunting the Duck” (duck breast lying on splashes of red pomegranate sauce and burnt onion powder as gunpowder).

SEED

THE DINING ROOM

106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4025. Open daily noon2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

MEATLICIOUS Gaggan Anand, culinary whiz behind this continent’s best restaurant according to the voters of Asia’s 50 Best, went down a totally different route with this steakhouse. Forget about a wine list and head straight for the beers, because nothing else quite cuts in when eating succulent meat cooked on wood-fired ovens. Here the name says it all with a wide menu ranging from premium Japanese beef to some funkier creations like the “foie gras breakfast”—foie gras mousse served like a creme brulee alongside brioche and cherry compote.

8 Ekkamai Soi 6, 091-698-6688. Open daily 6pm-midnight

PIZZA MASSILIA French restaurateur Frederic Meyer (Issaya Siamese Club and Namsaah) and Italian chef Luca Apino (La Bottega di Luca) have imported two massive, twin ovens from Italy—and a chef, Flavio Argenio, whose pizza-making experience spans Marseille and Italy, making him an ideal fit for this “Italy with a touch of Provence” pizzeria. The baroque, powder blue dining room contrasts French antiques, global contemporary art and simple wood-fired dishes.

15/1 Soi Ruam Rudi, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-651-5091.

Open daily 5pm-midnight. BTS Phloen Chit

PIZZA MASSILIA

SEED With help from one of Bangkok’s best-known fine-dining chefs, Singaporean Haikal Johari, Seed doles out refined comfort food with an emphasis on quality produce in a casual, rusticallyinclined atmosphere. But as well as burgers, ribs and steak, you’ll also find dishes that bear GallicAsian twists like foie gras terrine with coconut and pineapple chutney and duck confit with carrot ginger puree and caramelized ginger.

104 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 099-283-6363. Open TueSun 6pm-midnight

SEED

12 W H E R E T H A I LAND I MA RCH 2 0 1 6

Feature_02_Mar_2016_2_New.indd 12

2/19/16 6:55 PM

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

JAPANESE KOM-BA-WA “Modern” Japanese with Western influences is the name of the game at this creative restaurant from the same team as Issaya and Pizza Massilia.

Crowd pleasers like sushi compete for prominence on the menu with aged Tajima wagyu beef steak with ponzu jelly and squid ink ramen with Maine lobster and uni sauce. Diners with a sweet tooth are also sated with specialties like mochi with red bean mousse and strawberry jelly.

39/19 Soi Suanphlu, Sathorn Rd., 02-679-3775. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6pm-1am

SUSHI MASATO While working as head chef at New York’s Jewel Bako, Japan-native Masato Shimizu became the youngest chef in NYC ever to win a Michelin star at just 29. Now he’s moved to Bangkok and opened this omakase (chef’s selections) sushi

restaurant serving just 20 diners a night. Having trained from the age of 18-25 in Tokyo’s toughest kitchens, the results are superb. Reservations essential long in advance.

3/22 Sawasdee Soi 1, 02-040-0015. Open Tue-Sun 5:30-10pm

MIKAKU Founded over 80 years ago in Kyoto’s Gion district by the Mita family, this world-renowned teppanyaki restaurant has opened its first branch outside of Japan on Thonglor Road. Offering some of the most highly lauded beef in the world, Mikaku uses only A4-5 graded Kobe-sourced wagyu. Besides what’s cooked on the teppan (an iron plate where the chef works his magic), Mikaku also offers shabu shabu and sukiyaki.

2/F, Above Maison Eric Kayser, 103/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), between soi 3-5, 02-712-9080. Open daily 5-11pm; Sat-Sun noon-2pm. BTS Thong Lo

MIKAKU

SUSHI MASATO

MEATLICIOUS

MARCH 2016 I W HER E THA ILA N D 13

Feature_02_Mar_2016_2_New.indd 13

2/23/16 10:15 AM

Y

where

PHUKET

BABA HERITAGE

Phuket Town residents have been embracing their unique ThaiChinese heritage like never before. Here’s where to get a true taste of baba nonya culture. By Monruedee Jansuttipan

PHUKET THAI HUA MUSEUM

RAYA Southern cuisine meets Sino-Portuguese decor at Raya Restaurant. The century-old building’s original mosaic tiled floor and walls adorned with ‘50s tea and coffee poster girls and pictures of Thai monarchs set the perfect tone to enjoy a line-up of traditional Phuket dishes including moo hong (steamed pork with pepper and garlic), gaeng nue poo bai cha ploo (crab meat in coconut curry with wildbetal leafbush), pad pak mieng goong sieb (stir fried mieng leaves with dried prawns) and pad sataw kapi goong (stir fried sataw with shrimps, B250-350).

TU KAB KHAO

48 Dibuk Rd., 076-218-155. Open daily 10am-11pm.

CHINA INN KOPITIAM BY WILAI

EAT KOPITIAM BY WILAI Though open for just five years, Kopitiam

by Wilai’s recipes are resoundingly authentic—the owner is a third-gen baba descendant. Here the focus is on home-cooked staples like mee Hokkien (Phuket-style noodles), bak kut teh (pork bone herbal soup), fried pork and mee hun (rice noodles). It’s all wonderfully cheap and unfalteringly delicious.

18 Thalang Rd., 083-606-776. Open Mon-Sat 11am10pm. www.fb.com/kopitiambywilai

RAYA

TU KAB KHAO The latest addition to Phuket Town’s cuisine, Tu Kab Khao has done a grand job of renovating a 120-year-old Sino-Portuguese building on Phang-nga Road to be into the finest dining setting on the island.

The kitchen offers antiquated local recipes such as nam prik goong siab (chili paste with dried shrimp), liam tor pad khoei khem (stir-fried pork belly with shrimp paste) and crab meat in coconut curry.

8 Phangnga Road, Talat Nuea, 076-608-888. Open daily 11am-midnight. www.fb.com/tukabkhao

This charming cafe on Talang Road revived an old shop-house with an award-winning restoration and a menu which doesn’t stick exclusively to authentic Southern recipes.

The rare Phuket-style pomelo salad is not to be missed.

20 Thalang Rd. Open TKTK. 076-356-239.

MEE TON POH If street food is more your thing, head to this long-standing open-air favorite. Found in 1957 by the son of Chinese immigrants, this popular eatery draws people in from all over Thailand for their signature dishes like pad mee Hokkien (rich, eggy noodles) and musttry aromatic pork satay.

214/7 Phuket Rd., 076-216-293. Open daily 10am6pm

14 W H E R E T H A I LAND I MA RCH 2 0 1 6

AROUND_THAILAND_1_Mar_2016_NEW.indd 14

2/19/16 6:58 PM

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

SEE PHUKET THAI HUA MUSEUM This museum has transformed Phuket’s oldest school into a two-story exhibition space telling the story of the island’s tin mining boom of the early 1800s. From the original Chinese settlers to the years of prosperity and emergence of a unique culture with its own delicious cuisine, it’s the Phuket museum which the island has been crying out for. Also don’t miss the section detailing the history of the school itself, which dates back to 1930.

28, Krabi Rd., Talat Nuea, 076-211-224. Open daily 9am-5pm, B200 entrance fee. www.thaihuamuseum.com

BAAN CHINPRACHA One of Phuket Town’s best preserved examples of Sino-Portuguese architecture is the mansion of Chinese public servantturned merchant Phra Phitakchinpracha,

who commissioned this building in 1903.

The widow of his fourth generation descendant still offers tours of the interior, which perfectly reflects the blend of Siamese, European and Chinese influences in the region, while every corner is chockablock with furniture that started life in China’s Fujian province.

98 Krabi Road, 076-211-167, 076-211-281. Open Mon-Sat 9am-5pm. B200 entrance fee.

THAVORN PHUKET Constructed in 1960, this vintage hotel was the first modern hotel in Phuket. Its founders, the Thavornwongwongse family, are still among the island’s most well-known hoteliers even today, and recently transformed the lobby into a showcase of baba artefacts. Wedding ornaments, shoes, kitchenware and family appliances are displayed alongside well-narrated details of the island’s culture and each items function.

74 Rasada Rd., Talad www.thavornhotel.com

Yai,

PERANAKANNITAT MUSEUM Mid-March, Phuket will welcome another museum dedicated to baba heritage. PeranakanNitat Museum sees a 1907 building, which once housed Standard Chartered bank, now dedicated to the unique culture that permeates the Strait of Malacca, including Penang, Singapore and parts of Indonesia. Tours are organized eight times per day. Visitors must message the museum on Facebook prior to their arrival to book a spot.

34 Phuket Road, Talad Yai, 095-257-7264.

Entrance fee B190. www.fb.com/peranakannitat

076-211-333-5.

STAY

THE MEMORY AT ON ON HOTEL

The Memory at On On Hotel Built in 1929, Phuket’s oldest hotel originally welcomed Chinese traders and Europeans who came to the island during the peak of the tin mining boom. After it was left to decay for years, the hotel has been renovated into a boutique hotel which local architecture group ASA Dhaksin recently honored with its preservation award.

The 86-year-old Sino-Portuguese building now offers a small collection of gorgeous guest rooms—one of which was inspired by 2000’s The Beach, starring Leonardo DiCaprio, who shot a scene here.

19 Phang-Nga Rd., Talad Yai, 076-216-161. www. thememoryhotel.com

The Rommanee Classic & Rommanee Boutique Guesthouse Located right in the center of Phuket’s Old Town, this Sino-Portuguese-style drugstore-turned-guesthouse combines Southern charm with all the mod cons. Its seven rooms, each decorated around a different theme, are located right in the heart of town and offer Wi-Fi and cable TV. If Rommanee Classic is full, also check out the Rommanee Boutique Guesthouse from the same owners.

4 Krabi Rd., Talad Yai, 089-728-9871. www.therommanee.com MARCH 2016 I W HER E THA ILA N D 15

AROUND_THAILAND_1_Mar_2016_NEW.indd 15

2/19/16 6:58 PM

whereExploring MARCH 2016 | BANGKOK

SIAM Siam sees huge malls like Siam Paragon and CentralWorld rub shoulders with trendy little boutiques hidden in a maze of streets populated by fashion-loving uni students. The area is also home to downtown Bangkok’s biggest cultural space, as well as the cheap electronics mecca of MBK. Here’s how to spend an entire day eating, shopping and drinking in this very modern Bangkok neighborhood.

ERAWAN SHRINE

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 18 SIAM

20 CHINATOWN

16 W H E R E T H A ILAND I MA RCH 2 0 1 6

The Exploring Landing_Mar_2016 .indd 16

2/18/16 7:58 PM

MARCH 2016 I W HER E THA ILA N D 17

The Exploring Landing_Mar_2016 .indd 17

2/18/16 7:58 PM

EXPLORING

SIAM

Y HOT SPOTS

Siam’s Top 3 Restaurants

!8 Sra Bua By Kiin Kiin The Bangkokian sister of Copenhagen’s molecular gastronomy restaurant Kiin Kiin, which, after David Thompson’s London restaurant Nahm (now in Bangkok), became the second restaurant in the world to receive a Michelin star for cooking Thai food.

Lobby/F, Siam Kempinski Hotel, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. Open daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm. BTS Siam

NEW 2 ME & SONS X SELEKTIV CONCEPT STORE Retro menswear store Me & Sons sells some of the coolest vintage gear in Bangkok, but it’s way out of town. That’s why this collaboration with Selektiv multi-label store is a big deal. You’ll find it on the top floor of London Brown shoe shop (also well worth a look), serving gents who go in for that rugged and unkempt lumberjack look. Expect piles of flannel shirts and backpacks from cult foreign brands like Sugarcane and Heller’s Cafe. More picks include Chippewa’s Crazyhorse boots, Oak Street Bootmakers’ brown trench boots and Birkenstock’s medina black sandals.

Siam Square Soi 2, Rama 1 Rd. BTS Siam

4 Mango Mojito (Siam Square Soi 2, 02-658-1435). If Siam Square is Bangkok’s fashion nursery, then 5 Siam Center (Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000)

MANGO MOJITO

SHOP The actual Siam Square (the area on the opposite side of the Skytrain to Siam Paragon and Siam Center malls) is divided into 11 alleys of miniscule shops rented to independent fashion brands and restaurants. It’s like a training ground for young Thai designers, before the best ones graduate to the fancier malls across the street. Highlights include the original branch of cult-label 1 Issue (Siam Square Soi 3, 02-6584416), 2 Dancing Riot (Me & Sons x Selektiv, Siam Square Soi 2, 02-6584863), minimal womenswear brand 3 WWA (Siam Square Soi 7, 02-6584686) and dapper men’s shoe specialist

SIAM CENTER

is its graduating class, where the very best local labels can be found. On the third floor, shop for industry leaders like Greyhound, Kloset, Senada and Soda as well as younger brands including Milin and Something Boudoir—or let the multi-label stores Gin & Milk, The Selected and The Wonder Room pick the best for you. 6 Siam Paragon (991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-8000) also has a floor for Thai designers, but the real highlight is its lavish VIP cinema

and world class Sea Life aquarium. 7 Gaysorn Plaza (999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-1149) has luxury shops including Louis Vuitton and Prada, while you’ll also find high-end locally made craftsmanship at furniture specialist Alexander Lamont and luxury jewelry brand Matina Amanita. The biggest mall is 8 CentralWorld (Ratchadamri Rd., 02-640-7000), with more restaurants and shops than anywhere town.

If you’re in the market for electronic goods, 9 MBK (444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000) is a mecca for cameras, phones and headphones (though beware of fakes) as well as watches and fashion of dubious pedigree.

8 Taling Pling This restaurant specializes in fussfree Thai dishes. Favorites include the delicious klua gling moo gradook on (Southern-style stir-fried baby back ribs with herbs), a perfect combination of salty and mildly spicy.

3/F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-613-1657. Open daily 10am-10pm.

BTS Chit Lom. Also at 6 Siam Paragon

!4 Thompson Bar & Restaurant Located at the end of a non-descript soi, in the same leafy compound as the Jim Thompson Thai House, Thompson Bar & Restaurant shares the traditional home’s refined atmosphere. The restaurant excels in Western and fusion recipes. Try their larb spaghetti (spicy spaghetti salad) or stir-fried soft-shell crab with black pepper.

6/1 Soi Kasaemsan 2, 02-612-3601.

Open daily 10:30 am-6pm

MBK

18 W H E R E T H A I LAND I MA RCH 2 0 1 6

Exploring_01_Mar_2016_Siam.indd 18

2/18/16 8:12 PM

EXPLORING

SIAM

SOMTAM NUA

EAT

From khao-kaeng (street stalls that sell ready-made dishes on top of rice) to rooftop fine dining, Siam has it all.

For street eats, head to the little alley behind Novotel Hotel in Siam Square (between soi 5 and 6) or to the second floor of the Lido cinema (Siam Square, 02-251-2861). Siam Square is also home to the original branch of beloved comfort Thai food chain !0 Baanying Cafe & Meal (G/F, Siam Kit Building, 02-664-4510, also at Siam Center). !1 Somtam Nua (Siam Square Soi 5, 02-251-4880) is the area’s most iconic restaurant. Be prepared to wait with a long line of students to try their somtam (papaya salad) and legendary crispy chicken. Another Thai food

landmark is !2 Seefah (Siam Square Soi 9, 02-251-5517), an 80-year-old diner that serves Chinese-style Thai food. For a bit of vernacular, !3 Baan Khun Mae (Siam Square Soi 8, 02658-4112) is set in a Thai-style wooden house serving traditional Thai dishes.

Some of the best Cantonese cusine in town is served at 6 Crystal Jade (G/F, Siam Paragon, 02-610-9363), while Michelin-star dumpling empire 8 Din Tai Fung (7/F, CentralWorld, 02-6461282) is renowned for its xiao long bao (soup-filled steamed dumplings).

be rewarded with incredible views at 8 Red Sky Bar (02-100-1234), high up on the roof of Centara Grand at CentralWorld.

DRINK

SEE AND DO

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

!4 Jim Thompson House (Soi Kasem San 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368), the former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson, is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. The corner of Phayathai Road is also home to !5 Bangkok Art and Cultural Center (939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-2146630) where you’ll find exhibitions by local artists both new and established.

Inside you’ll also find the independent book store Hardcover and Gallery Drip

Siam Square is not a nightlife area at all. Most of the shops outside of malls close at 7pm. But there is a buzzing bar scene at Groove, the dedicated dining and nightlife annex at CentralWorld shopping mall. Here you’ll find niche beer bar 8 HOBS (02-613-1322), gastro-bar and cocktail specialist 8 1881 by Water Library (02-613-1774) and 8 Hyde & Seek Peek-a-Boo (02646-1099), the young offshoot of nearby Hyde & Seek (65/1 Athenee Residence, Soi Ruamrudee, 02-1685152)—another popular cocktail spot.

Cut through CentralWorld and you’ll

Phe

tch

abu

ri R

d.

Klong San Sab

!4

!8

5 on

Rama 1 Rd. tation

Siam S

Chit Lo

!7 .

!0 unat Rd

!3

7

Soi 6

!2 !1

Henri D

Soi 7

!6 8

Soi 5

Soi 3

3

Soi 10

hai Rd.

Soi 11

2

Soi 8

1 4

Soi 2

Soi 1

9

Phaya T

6

1 Issue 2 Dancing Riot at Me & Sons X Selektiv 3 WWA 4 Mango Mojito 5 Siam Center 6 Siam Paragon 7 Gaysorn Plaza 8 CentralWorld/Groove/Centara - Uno Mas - Taling Pling - Din Tai Fung - HOBS - 1881 by Water Library - Hyde & Seek Peek-a-Boo - Red Sky 9 MBK !0 Baanying Cafe and Meal (Siam Kit Branch) !1 Somtam Nua !2 Seefah !3 Baan Khun Mae !4 Jim Thompson House !5 Bangkok Art and Cultural Center !6 Patumwanaram Temple !7 Erawan Shrine !8 Sra Bua

m Stati

on

amri Sta tion Ratchad amri Rd .

m Stati

Soi 4

Stadiu

Soi 9

Nation

BACC

Ratchad

!5

Cafe—both well worth a visit. The area also has two stunning religious sites. !6 Patumwanaram Temple is hidden between Siam Paragon and CentralWorld on Rama 1 Road. Even for Thais, this often-overlooked temple is a real treat, like something from the countryside transplanted to the city. Bangkok’s uniquely Hindu-influenced strain of Buddhism is evidenced at the !7 Erawan Shrine, located right outside Erawan shopping mall. The shrine represents Phra Phrom, Thailand’s representative of the Hindu god of creation.

Here you’ll find Thais from across the city coming to pray and make wishes (mostly for lovers)—but you have to hire the dance troupe if you want that wish to come true.

MARCH 2016 I W HER E THA ILA N D 19

Exploring_01_Mar_2016_Siam.indd 19

2/18/16 8:12 PM

EXPLORING

CHINATOWN Y CHINATOWN’S TOP

STREET-FOOD STALLS

!4 Guay Tiew Kua Gai This gem, very well-known among locals, is hidden in a tiny alley and run by an old couple who have been serving one of the best guay tiew kua gai (fried noodles with chicken) for decades.

Yaowarat Soi 6. Open Wed-Mon, 7pm-1am

!5 Pa Jin Cockle Soi Texas Located in the middle of Soi Texas, this place has been specializing in boiled cockles and mussels for over 35 years.

!2 TEP BAR This restored shop-house has plenty of raw appeal, and specializes in potent cocktails mixed with Thai fruits, herbs and spices. There’s also a good line of home-infused ya dong (Thai herbal whiskey) as well as a kitchen dishing out Thai tapas (as well as a few classics like pad Thai). Come nightfall, enjoy your meal while Thai musicians take the stage to play traditional music from the Central region.

Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd., 081-795-1839. Open daily Mon-Sat 6:30pm-1am, Sun 5pm-1am

Room 69-71, Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 098-467-2944. Open Tue-Thu 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sun 5pm-1am. MRT Hua Lamphong

C

hinatown used to be all about eating at the most time-worn restaurants in Bangkok and walking through moody, crumbling streets where traditional Sino-Thai home life spills into public sight. That’s all still there, but so are a cluster of the coolest new cocktail bars and galleries in town, attracting to the area a young, local and arty crowd with craft brews and vibrant live sounds.

SEE & DO Although many generations have passed since Chinese immigrants first moved to the area, Taoist culture still remains strong in Chinatown, giving this part of town a rich and unique history.

Using life-size models and audiovisual displays, the 1 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-623-3329, open Tue-Sun 8am5pm) details the history of Chinese migration to Thailand, as well as how the area now known as Chinatown began.

2 Wat Traimit (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-225-9775, open Tue-Sun 9am5pm) is not to be missed, home to the world’s biggest seated Golden Buddha, which also happens to be the largest gold statue in the world. Built in the 14th century, it remains very sacred and is a

WAT MANGKHON KAMALAWAT

popular site for locals during religious holidays. Nearby, you’ll find 3 Wat Mongkhon Kamalawat (Mangkorn Rd., 02-222-3975), which combines Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian figures.

A lot of devout Buddhist locals tend to practice here, so be sure to respect them as they perform their religious rituals. For a more tourist-friendly expe-

rience, head to the colorful old Chinese Buddhist shrines at 4 Li Thi Miew (494 Plapphlachai Rd., 02-221-6985), where you’ll be welcomed with your camera at the ready—so long as you wear appropriate clothing. The most picturesque shrine in the area has to be 5 Guan Yin Shrine (600 Yaowarat Rd., 02-2372191), where a classically ornate Chinese building houses a 900-year-old statue of the Mahayana Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. Yaowarat is also known as a hub for gold trade. 6 Tang Toh Kang (Soi Vanit 1, 02-224-2422) gold shop dates back to the early 1900s and the reign of King Rama VI. Today, the seven-story late colonial-style building is still owned by its founding family, and in 2002 underwent a major renovation.

Although the shop still deals gold on a day-to-day basis, a section has also been converted into a museum for the public. Be sure to call ahead one day in advance as they don’t allow walk-in visitors for security reasons.

!6 Kuay Jub Nai Ek This place is known for its kuay jub, a hot dish composed of rolled noodles with crispy pork belly, blood and intestines served in peppery soup.

Yaowarat Rd., corner of soi 11. Open daily 7pm-late

!7 T&K Seafood and

R&L Seafood

Located opposite each other, these two restaurants are known for their fresh seafood dishes at reasonable prices.

Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd. Open daily 6pm-1am

20 W H E R E T H A I LAND I MA RCH 2 0 1 6

Exploring_02_Mar_2016_China Town.indd 20

2/18/16 8:15 PM

EXPLORING

CHINATOWN

DRINK

.

Rd ai

34

Rd

.

!3

.

an Ph

.

Rd

it

Rd

on

8 !4 !1 !5 !6 !7 7 Ph at Sa i R!0

.

Ch la Ph lap

g

Ph

un

ngk

Rd

d. aR ap Su

Kr

Ma

Rd. pok dhi

tR d.

wa Sa ng So

d. nR tP ha Mi

.

Rd

Da o

Ph

ad un g

Ma

Rd .

ng

ae

Pl

Rd . gs e wo n ha Ra c

Na m

5

a

La

m

2 1

ph

on

g

u

d.

it R

M Tri

am

oL Kha

Rd.

ng R

hra

ya R

d

d.

Pra ja

.

Hu

Kru

oP

Rd

RT

d.

GETTING THERE

Wa t

!2 M

roen

Cha

Dindaeng Pier

ng

To

it R

det

Rachawongse Pier

So

d.

i Ch

Som

6

Cha

1 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center 2 Wat Triammit 3 Wat Mongkhon Kamalawat 4 Li Thi Miew 5 Guan Yin Shrine Memorial 6 TangBridge Toh Kang Pier 7 Yim Yim 8 Jok’s Kitchen Chao Phray 9 Royal India a Rive !0 Eiah-Sae r !1 Double Dogs !2 Soi Nana - El Chiringuito - Teens of Thailand - 23 Bar and Gallery - Tep Bar !3 Grand China Hotel !4 Guy Tiew Kua Gai !5 Pa Jin Cockle Soi Texas !6 Kuay Jub Nai Ek !7 T&K Seafood and R&L Seafood

tr Mai

Pak Khlong Talat Pier

ng ko

n

d.

Rd

.

Ch M

tR

n

d.

ra

oe

it R

Ya o

wa

Tri Ph e

a ah

tR ak

ra

wa

ar

Ch

t Rd.

Ch

Rd.

.

g Rd.

itri

Ban Mo

Ch

Luan

Ma

t Rd

l2

Rd

ak

ch Wo ra

d.

hai Rd. hura

TEENS OF THAILAND

.

ak

Rd

.

Yuk o

Chai

Rd.

Until recently, Chinatown was never on the nightlife radar. But a recent wave of new bars have been converting old shop-houses, both in Chinatown and the surrounding area. !2 El Chiringuito (221 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 086,-3404791) has a charming retro ambience courtesy of reclaimed wooden furniture, classic sewing tables, old posters and an adorable chalkboard menu. The owner lived in Spain for six years, and the kitchen rolls out dishes like tortilla de patatas Lua patatas bravas (fried po(omelet), ng Rdbocadillos tatoes) and (sandwich. es). Wash it down with a Spanish Xoriguer gin. Just round the corner you’ll find one of the coolest craft

9

Rajinee Pier

t

EL CHIRINGUITO

Maha

Sanam C

Pha

cocktail lounges in town, !2 Teens of Thailand (76 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 081-443-3784), where a collection of arts, party organizers and photographers gather to sip on gin-heavy drinks. On the same street, !2 23 Bar and Gallery (92 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 086-264-4471), has a no-frills atmosphere, and a soundtrack that flits between 90s Britpop and reggae, while !2Tep Bar (69-71 Soi Nana) dishes out heritage Thai food, drinks and music to a hip local crowd (see opposite). Or head up to the 25th floor of the !3 Grand China Hotel (215 Yaowarat Rd., 02224-9977), where a revolving restaurant and bar offers 360-degree views of Chinatown and the river.

M

lip-smackingly good Punjabi recipes.

EAT Turn on your heels, because here Dining in Chinatown is all about they cook in true Indian grandmother old-school shop-house restaurants style—plenty of cream and ghee. And that have stood in the same spot for be sure to stock up on traditional Indi80 years or more. 7 Yim Yim (89 an sweets on your way out. The area’s Yaowaphanit Rd., 02-224-2203) is old-school tea and coffee houses are a venerable institution in Yaowarat’s also not to be missed. The 87-yearrich dining scene—which is to say it’s some of the best Chinese food you’ll get in Bangkok, despite the gloomy decor and small, dark space. The goat ham and cured fish are delicious. On a similar note, don’t be discouraged by the rats and cockroaches in the alleyway leading to 8 Jok’s Kitchen (23 Soi Isara Nuphap, 02-221-4075), a small, menu-less establishment known as one of the hottest seats in EIAH-SAE town. Chef Jok presents course after course of things like steamed bass in old !0 Eiah-Sae (1-103 Yaowarat soy sauce and fried rice with crabmeat Rd., 081-868-9891) serves coffee to a packed dining room every night. laced with condensed milk alongDining here is done traditional Chiside charming snacks like custard nese-style, so come with a big enough on toast, soft-boiled eggs and toast party to fill one of the large round tawith butter, jam or chocolate spread, bles. While Yaowarat is known for its all charged at rock-bottom prices.

Chinese food, the adjoining Pahurat !1 Double Dogs, (406 Yaowarat Rd., is home to a sizable Indian commu086-329-3075) meanwhile, specialnity, and 9 Royal India (392/1 ChakCharoen Krung Rd izes . in potent, properly brewed teas kaphet Rd., 02-221-6565) is simply from across the region. one of the best places in town for

. MRT (underground train) to Hua Lamphong station and head to Exit 1. Follow the road over a footbridge that crosses the canal and you’ll be at Reaching Chinatown is easy. Simply take the the doorway to the area. See page 32 for a general map of Bangkok.

MARCH 2016 I W HER E THA ILA N D 21

Exploring_02_Mar_2016_China Town.indd 21

2/18/16 8:15 PM

ThewhereGuide MARCH 2016 | BANGKOK

NEW

SIAM SPRING BISTRO

The team behind the riverside fine-dining restaurant Praya Palazzo have expanded their services into town in the form of a casual, stylish bistro decorated with contemporary Thai elements. The food focuses on traditional, hard-to-find dishes using ancient Thai recipes, promising authentic flavors and interesting background stories. When served in a casual yet sophisticated setting, these dishes make for a bistro that very much keeps the tone of its original branch while bringing it to a much more casual and accessible location.

125 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 081-822-3392

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 23 DINING 26 NIGHTLIFE

28 SHOPPING 29 HEALTH & WELLNESS

30 ATTRACTIONS 31 ART

32 NAVIGATE

22 W H E R E T H A ILAND I MA RCH 2 0 1 6

The guide_Mar_2016.indd 22

2/18/16 8:17 PM

GUIDE

DINING NEW

Y

THE COMMONS

Good food takes center stage at Thonglor’s new loft-like, open-plan community mall. The mall’s ground-floor marketplace-like space gathers many of Bangkok’s finest restaurants and bars in one place, from Peppina’s Neapolitan-style pizza and Soul Food 555’s playful takes on Thai comfort food to The Beer Cap’s many, many craft brews. Another highlight is Barrio Bonito, a Mexican restaurant that started life on Koh Chang and is already being lauded as the most authentic in Bangkok. Up on the fourth floor you’ll find the new home of popular brunch spot Roast.

Thonglor Soi 17, 092-331-5203

Y SPOTLIGHT

Hot Spots TRADITIONAL THAI FOOD

2

BENJARONG

Recently rejigged by the former head chef of Kempinski’s Sra Bua, Benjarong still offers some of the most old-school versions of “royal Thai” favorites, but gives them a little spin by adding European culinary methods and modernstyle plating. Part of longtime favorite the Dusit Thani hotel, Benjarong also has brisk service and a beautiful dining room. To get a little bit of everything, go for a seasonal tasting menu.

BO.LAN

1

BO.LAN

Dusit Thani, 946 Silom Rd., 02-200-9000#2345.

Open daily 6-10pm; Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm. MRT Silom

Featuring fine Thai cuisine made using traditional methods and the best ingredients, Bo.lan—an amalgam of chef-couple Bo and Dylan Jones’s names—has made a splash in the global dining world with its aromatic curries, beautifully plated salads and artfully conceived menu.

Adding to the allure is a striking dining room, set in an old house replete with tropical garden and close to hipster thoroughfare Soi Thonglor. Try the “Bo. lan balance,” a menu which changes along with the seasons.

Ginza Sushi Ichi

24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-2961-2. Open Tue-Sun 6-10:30pm; Sat-Sun noon-2:30pm. BTS Thong Lo

3

BLUE ELEPHANT

The flagship branch of the globallyknown Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts. Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authentic flavor. While more modern Thai restaurants have lately grabbed most column inches, Blue Elephant is still worth a visit for both atmosphere and food.

Bangkok’s version of the acclaimed Ginza Sushi Ichi in Tokyo arrived in town promising an unmatched dedication to freshness. Each day the restaurant flies ingredients in from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo, even closing when Japanese holidays will delay the next shipment of fresh goods.

Sushi lovers, grab a seat and get your Instagram ready for fresh-from-market omakase, or order a la carte and marvel as the chefs prepare each course in front of you.

LG/F, Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ploen Chit Rd., 02-2500014. Open Tue-Sun noon-2:30pm; Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun 6-10pm. BTS Chit Lom

BENJARONG

233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Surasak BLUE ELEPHANT

MARCH 2016 I W HER E THA ILA N D 23

Dinning_Mar_2016.indd 23

2/18/16 8:21 PM

Y

TASTE OF THE CITY

DINING HONG KONG Recent Openings

BARRIO BONITO

Koh Chang’s favorite Mexican joint lands in Thonglor.

The Commons, Thonglor Soi 17, 092-3315203.

SIAM SPRING BISTRO

Boutique hotel Praya Palazzo takes its ancient recipes to the center of town.

1/F, Natural Place Suite, Sathorn Soi 1, 087777-3555. MRT Lumphini

CIAO TERRAZZA

This Italian restaurant by the river has had a massive revamp.

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Charoen Krung Soi 40, 02-659-9000. BTS Saphan Taksin

Advertise your business with us ­ starting from B5,000

CHICON

The second floor of Le Cafe des Stagiaires now operates as a casual but traditional French bistro.

2/F, Le Cafe des Stagiaires, 142/21 Sathorn Soi 12, 062-445-0445. BTS Chong Nonsi

Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Credit card payment accepted.

24 W H E R E T H A I LAND I DECEMBER 2 0 1 1 I www.wheretraveler.com

Dinning_Mar_2016.indd 24

2/18/16 8:21 PM

GUIDE

DINING WORLD-RENOWNED BANGKOK RESTAURANTS

4

Y

NAHM

Still considered the “must-go” destination of every aspiring foodie in Bangkok, Nahm—helmed by Australian chef David Thompson—does Thai food made with the very finest ingredients using the most traditional methods. The most popular offerings at Nahm are the set menus, which usually feature dishes like blue swimmer crab curry with fermented rice noodles and the salad of fresh river prawns and Asian pennywort served in communal, Thai-style fashion.

Metropolitan, 27 Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3388. Open daily 7-10:30pm; Mon-Fri noon-2pm

RUEN URAI

5

RUEN URAI

This century-old house outfitted with beautiful antiques is just as stunning outside as inside. Paying homage to the original owner, who was a herbal medicine practitioner, the menu incorporates strong herbs and spices such as green peppercorn, wild ginger, galangal and turmeric. Ingredients are of high quality and the curry pastes taste like they’re made from scratch. We’re particularly drawn to the grilled river prawns with spicy galangal dressing and wild boar sauteed with spicy curry and herbs.

GAGGAN

NAHM

Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72.

BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily noon-11pm

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON

Eat Me Ranked as the 25th of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, Chef Tim Butler’s kitchen pulls off bold combinations like Alaskan scallops with avocado, yuzu and pancetta, while a simple chicken salad is elevated to new heights by the addition of red papaya, toasted coconut and betel leaf.

The decor is a cool, yet cozy, melange of modernist and natural, with rotating exhibitions by local artists. The service is diligent and sweet, and the cocktails are perfection.

1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. Open daily 3pm-1am. BTS Sala Daeng

Gaggan After building a solid foundation in Indian and Italian cooking at hotel restaurants, Gaggan Anand did a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, the former modern-gastro capital of the world. His eponymous restaurant serving molecular Indian cooking ranked No. 1 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2015. Expect the unexpected like foams, spherification, dehydration and more alongside traditional dishes of Indian curry.

68/1 Lang Suan Rd., 02-652-1700. Open daily 6pmmidnight. BTS Ratchadamri

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Borrowing the same concepts from all L’Atelier branches, this elegant red and black space has diners seated around a large open kitchen, a format more remniscent of a sushi bar than classic dining a la Francaise. The food remains unmistakebly French, though—with dishes like free range quail stuffed with foie gras and potato purée—and with all the finesse you’d expect from Joel Robuchon, the chef with the most Michelin stars in the world.

5/F, Mahanakorn Cube, 96 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0698. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:3010:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

MARCH 2016 I W HER E THA ILA N D 25

Dinning_Mar_2016_NEW.indd 25

2/19/16 7:03 PM

Y

GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE NEW

RABBIT HOLE

A new addition to the bar scene of one of Bangkok’s liveliest nightlife districts, and one that breaks the monotony at that. Step inside the inconspicuous wooden door wedged between Ainu Japanese bar and Ramen Ajisai restaurant and you’ll find a charming, red-lit narrow bar staffed by two veteran Diageo World Class cocktail competition winners. As well as pouring all the classics, they also dish out some sexy numbers of their own like the fat-washed White Truffle Martini (Tanqueray gin infused with white truffle oil).

125 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 081-822-3392. Open Tue-Sun 7pm-2am. BTS Thong Lo

Hot Spots ROOFTOP BARS

2

PARK SOCIETY

For a real breath of fresh air and a park view to boot, head up to the 29th floor of the super trendy Sofitel So. Inside is for casual dining on international cuisine, while out on the rooftop, it’s all about cocktails, lounge tunes and the striking view. Feeling peckish? order shared plates like seafood platters from the restaurant.

‘

Y SPOTLIGHT

29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 Sathorn Rd., 02-6240000. Open daily 5pm-2am. MRT Lumphini PARK SICIETY

1

OCTAVE

The bar’s trendy-but-mature vibe is accentuated by striking views from the top floor of the Marriott Sukhumvit hotel. The first level features a long balcony filled with sculpture-like sofas, above which are a couple of private rooms and a third tier with 360-dedgree views around a circular bar. DJs play not-too-loud funky houseto a crowd of young executives and hotel guests drinking classic cocktails with slight twists. The food focuses on Asian-themed bar snacks.

45/F, Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000. Open daily 5pm-1am. BTS Thong Lo

3

ABOVE ELEVEN

ABOVE ELEVEN

This bar and restaurant doesn’t just have great views of the city going for it; there’s also an adventurous menu of Japanese-Peruvian fusion (aka Nikkei) cuisine. Small plates like acebichado rolls (seabass, ika karage, avocado) and skewers of anticucho beef heart are bettered only by their signature cocktails. Note that if you’re sitting at the bar you’ll have your back to the skyline, so its worth booking a table in advance.

33/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111. Open daily 6pm-2am. BTS Nana

OCTAVE

Smalls This laidback, late-night bar is split over three rickety levels of an old corner townhouse where the owner’s prized collection of contemporary art matches with a hands-off approach to restoration. Book in advance if you want to nab a seat with a view on the rooftop terrace. Or head downstairs to knock back shots of absinthe (the house specialty) and mingle with a hard-drinking after-work crowd of expats and locals.

186/3 Suanphlu Soi 1, 095-585-1398

26 W H E R E T H A I LAND I MA RCH 2 0 1 6

Nightlife_Mar_2016.indd 26

2/19/16 7:06 PM

GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE BEST NEW NIGHTCLUBS

Beam Home to Asia’s first “body kinetic” dance floor that transmits vibrations into dancers’ feet, this club guarantees you’ll feel the rhythm inside you. Otherwise, the minimal, warehouse-style experience keeps things raw, casual and loud. Meanwhile, the lounge area, dubbed the Dalmatian Room, promises easy-going electronic beats while the main room upstairs brings quality, energetic, deep house and techno tracks from live DJs.

4

Y

RED SKY

The 55th floor view from Centara’s rooftop puts this bar in the same league as high flyers like Vertigo at the Banyan Tree. Al fresco dining and drinking takes place under a swooping, red-lit arch in an environment that is somewhat more relaxed than the adjoining Fifty Five restaurant. Chef Hugo Coudurier prepares a menu focused on high-quality French ingredients, best enjoyed with a drop from the hotel’s notably excellent wine cellar.

55/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-6255. Open daily 6pm-1am.

BTS Siam

1/F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor).

Open Wed-Sat 8pm-3am RED SKY

TOP KNOT

5

TOP KNOT

Sitting on top of the Hotel Once, this multi-level bar and grill offers 360-degree views from its upper level. You come here for quiet, intimate evenings and small gatherings among friends in an area of the city which is only just waking up to nightlife—but which has the authentic atmosphere of old Bangkok. The food menu however is not so Thai, offering a selection of barbecue specials like pork, chicken, beef, salmon and shrimp as well as pastas. To drink, it’s cocktails or local and imported beers.

8-9/F, Hotel Once Bangkok, 2074/99 Charoenkrung Soi 72/2, 02-688-2596. Open daily 5:30pmmidnight

Chi Ultralounge You might have heard of Bed Supperclub, the Bangkok nightlife institution which closed its doors a couple years back. Well, this club resurrects the old iconic spaceship building (really, it’s the exact same structure) two streets over.

Gone is Bed’s slick white minimalism in favor of futuristic Chinoiserie dragons and giant fish tanks, spread across a clubbing space, lounge room and soon-to-open second-floor restaurant. The sound system is superb and the decks manned by veterans of Bangkok’s club scene.

32/8 Sukhumvit Soi 13, 02-102-0013. Open daily 7pm-2am

Sing Sing Prolific Bangkok-based Aussie designer Ashley Sutton (Maggie Choo’s, Iron Fairies) expresses his Chinoiserie fretish here in a Hollywood vision of 1930s Shanghai that’s all lanterns, red lighting and elaborate metal screens. The petite dance floor acts as a hub for a network of mezzanines, sunken bars and Sutton’s trademark warren of secret passages leading to single-table balconies and speakeasy-style backrooms. Look for the drinks containing Iron Balls, Sutton’s own gin.

Sukhumvit Soi 45, 097-285-6888. Open daily 8pm2am

MARCH 2015 I W HER E THA ILA N D 27

Nightlife_Mar_2016.indd 27

2/19/16 7:07 PM

Y

BANGKOK

SHOPS+SERVICES NEW

TREASURES

There’s heaps you can’t miss at Thonglor’s hip new community mall, The Commons (not least the wonderful coffee at Roast or creative Thai dishes at Soul Food 555), but this ultra-chic vintage clothing boutique should be your first stop if you love fashion. Run by local celebrity and vintage collector Nita Tejapaibul, the store focuses mainly on elegant, luxury night-wear. Nita says that every item is one of a kind, mostly sourced from the UK, France and Italy, featuring plenty of handcrafted details like sequins, embroidery and lace. And it’s not just women’s jackets and gowns. Guys will find some nice shirts and blazers too. A tailor is also at hand for those who need adjustments.

1/F, The Commons, 335 Thonglor Soi 17, 084-6655626, 098-595-9959

Hot Spots

1

BEST MARKETS

5

CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET

Chatuchak weekend market can be a daunting shopping experience. The sprawling web of 15,000 stalls is one of the world’s largest markets, spread over 70-rai plot of land. You’ll find anything from food, furniture, books, plants, clothes, antiques to puppies and exotic pets. Section 3, just outside the Kamphaeng Phet MRT station, is the most design-forward part of the market, home to both established and up-and-coming Thai artists.

Next to Chatuchak Park, Kamphaeng Phet Rd. Open SatSun 9am-6pm. MRT Kamphaeng Phet

SUAN LUM NIGHT BAZAAR

Once the city’s biggest night market, the bazaar has made a long-awaited return after closing down in 2011. Many of the original market vendors have made their way over to set up camp at the new space, which covers a total of 125,00 square meters or nearly 2,000 shops. On top of the open-air market, the new area also includes a shopping complex with more high-end fashion stalls, a boxing ring, a cabaret show, a 4-star hotel and much more.

3

TALAD ROD FAI

TALAD ROD FAI

This vintage market is home to small stalls selling all sorts of retro bric-a-brac, from antique toys and vinyl to secondhand clothes and cameras. There are also plenty of vintage-inspired bars and cafes. To reach it, take the BTS to Udomsuk and then take a taxi. Don’t be put off if all you see on arrival is plastic junk—the best finds are at the back of the marekt.

Ratchada-Lat Phrao intersection. Open daily 4pm-midnight. MRT Lat Phrao

Y SPOTLIGHT

Sri Nakarin Soi 51, 081-827-5885. Open Thu-Sun 5pm1am

CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET

2

WANG LANG MARKET

This daily market runs along the river on the lesser visited Thonburi side, next to Siriraj Hospital, and is filled with locals of all ages every day. Stalls sell everything from food to toys, but the majority of the buzz centers on secondhand clothes for men and women—all at incredibly low prices. Most visitors reach the market by boat from Sathorn Pier or Prachan Pier.

Siriraj Pier, Wang Lang Rd. Open daily 10am-6pm

4

GREEN VINTAGE NIGHT MARKET

Just a stone’s throw from Chatuchak Weekend Market, this impressively funky space blends a low-key selection of fashionable clothing stalls and rows of industrial-slash-retro drinking parlors. Expect a down-to-earth crowd rummaging through keepsakes such as fashion items, antiques and home decor. For ‘80s and ‘90s kids, there are lots of old-school toys like Tamagotchi and Nintendo devices.

3 Kamphaeng Phet Rd., 092-461-5951. Open Thu-Sun 5pm-midnight.

JIM THOMPSON The original, main store of this pioneering Thai silk brand stocks silk clothes and accessories across its significant three floors. The space is classic and palatial, paneled with teak from wall to wall, and show off a range of elegant silks, from pillowcases and scarves to clubby neckties. There are other branches at Jim Thompson House (a must-visit within walking distance of BTS National Stadium) as well as various malls and five-star hotels around Bangkok.

9 Surawong Rd., 02-632-8100. Open daily 9am-9pm.

BTS Sala Daeng

28 W H E R E T H A I LAND I MA RCH 2 0 1 6

Shopping_Mar_2016.indd 28

2/18/16 8:24 PM

GUIDE

HEALTH + WELLNESS

Y

HUMMING HAIR SALON NEW

With an emphasis on natural treatments, this is one of few salons in Thailand trusted with international organic brand Aveda.

There are complimentary hair checkups per treatment allowing for a more customized service, free Wi-Fi, and even a little something for the kids, who can enjoy their cut and style in a specialised mini-car seat.

Men and women both welcome.

1/F, Eight Thonglor, Thonglor Soi 8, 02-381-1652

Hot Spots TOP BEAUTY CLINICS

1

ASTER SPRING

Y SPOTLIGHT

This international chain of skincare and health spas combines German techniques and products to provide effective facial and body treatments. The philosophy here is no-frills and no-nonsense, just good skin products that offer real results.

G/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0501.

Open daily 9:30am-9pm. BTS Asok

2

DERMASTER

Housed in a 2,000-sq-meter compound and operated by a board of certified plastic surgeons, Dermaster is recognized as one of Bangkok’s best aesthetic institutions. The vast compound houses four separate beauty centers offering everything from cosmetic surgery to wellness procedures. Facial treatments include Derma Frax laser therapy, while the non-surgical “Self Re-boost” treatment promises to rejuvenate your skin. For a quick revitalizing treatment, try the noninvasive 60-minute Aura Bright facial.

342 Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai), 085-047-4466.

Open daily 9am-8pm

THE FACE AESTHETIC

3

THE FACE AESTHETIC

This standalone, French-styled beauty clinic offers a more personalized service than big chain places. There are three main categories of treatments: beautification, clearing up skin problems and hair repair. Despite the medical nature of treatments on offer, the clinic still offers a wonderful day of pampering after too many late nights out on the town. Try a simple facial mask treatment, or if you’re looking for something more serious, the anti-aging botox option.

7/F, Bangkok Mediplex Centre, 2/30 Sukhumvit Soi 42, 02-712-2334. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Ekkamai

4

PUTTHARAKSA AESTHETIC

Using its own, in-house developed products, the clinic says its signature Acne Care package not only protects skin from breakouts but also helps reduce acne scars. Other treatments include Absolute Brightening for skin rejuvenation and Rejuvenation Complex, during which a machine exercises the flesh deep within your face.

Doctors are present at the clinic from 2-8pm daily.

DERMASTER

1535 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-6336. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm. BTS Phra Khanong

I.Sawan Residential Spa & Club When celebrated Taiwanese designer Tony Chi created this club-style hotel spa, he made it one of Bangkok’s most beautiful wellness retreats. The indoor-outdoor setting feels more like a jungle resort than a city spa, featuring six residential spa cottages, nine treatment bungalows, a hair salon and a nail bar—not to mention a modern fitness center, squash and tennis courts plus a 25-meter pool. Treatments include full day ‘Retreats’, halfday ‘Escapes’, and a huge variety of facial, fullbody and massage options.

5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am-11pm. BTS Chit Lom

MARCH 2016 I W HER E THA ILA N D 29

Health&Wellness_Mar_2016.indd 29

2/18/16 8:25 PM

Y

GUIDE

ATTRACTIONS NEW LAZGAM LASER GAMES NEW

Let the child within break free as you shoot at all your friends with some of the latest laser technology in Bangkok. This 500-sqmeter maze-like battlefield is laced with strobe lights, fluroscent decor and smoke machine, all adding to the sci-fi like vibes.

Games cater for up to 32 people, from the tag-like Alien Invasion, where players have the ability to infect each other, to the Blaster Booster game, where you have to dodge the lasers of other players.

5/F, Holiday Inn, Sukhumvit Soi 22 (Sukhumvit), 02-663-7703. BTS Phrom Phong

Hot Spots UNIQUE WORKOUTS

1

5

FLOW HOUSE BANGKOK

The big attraction at this urban water park is its FlowRider, a wave machine that lets you try your hand at standup surfing and bodyboarding. Entry is completely free, while use of the wave machine is charged by the hour including equipment and instruction. Other facilities include a plunge pool, games like pool, ping pong, darts and foosball, plus an on-site cafe.

URBAN PLAYGROUND

Climb your way to a healthier you at this recently renovated indoor rock climbing club.

For first-timers there are personal belay services as well as an auto belay devices available. One-day non-members are welcome to drop by and grab a day-pass which also include access to the gym, yoga, tennis courts and pool. Need some tuition? There are a one-hour introductory classes for newcomers and kids.

A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-108-5210. Open daily 10am-midnight

THE FIGHT LAB

3

THE FIGHT LAB

8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-119-7200. Open Mon-Fri 1pm10pm; Sat-Sun 10am-10pm

Y SPOTLIGHT

BOUNCE THAILAND

2

BOUNCE THAILAND

At Asia’s biggest trampoline park, you can bounce about in a giant room packed with 80 interconnecting trampolines—whether it’s for serious exercise or simply to have some fun. The Free Jumping zone lets you ping around at leisure or practice some pro moves, while the Bounce Fit zone shows you just about the most fun way possible to keep in shape. Kids can join too (aged three and above), with the Mini Bounce Zone offering a safe environment for them to play.

5/F, The St. Ratchada, New Ratchadapisek Rd., 02-0142446. Open daily 10am-10pm. MRT Thailand Cultural Centre

32/6 Sukhumvit Soi 69, 02-391-1754. Open daily 7am9pm. BTS Phrom Phong

4

ASIA PARKOUR

Stray from the usual run-of-the-mill workouts and try something a little more adventurous with the crew led by Team Farang. The lessons aim to transform free-running into a practical and fun movement-based workout. The classes include Ninja Kids (9-15 years olds) and Parkour Spirit for adults, starting from indoor beginner to outdoor advanced.

There’s also personal training for those building confidence and private group training for friends.

Ground/F, Amarin Plaza, 496-502 Phloen Chit Rd., 088493-2075. BTS Chit Lom

AKARAT AKWISARN

With 310 square meters of space looking out onto Benjasiri Park, this martials arts gym isn’t your dingy underground fight club. It’s clean, it’s vast and it manages to feel welcoming to newbies, while having plenty of competitive cred for the aspiring champs out there. They offer training in Muay Thai, boxing, mixed martial arts (MMA) and Brazilian jiu-jitsu (submission grappling). Private training, small group training and regular classes available.

Vimanmek First-time visitors will most likely already be in awe of the beautiful garden inside the palace gates, but step inside the colossal mansion and you’ll realize you can easily spend a whole day here, walking around the 31 exhibition rooms and taking in some of Thailand’s most prized photographs and artifacts, as well as King Rama V’s personal belongings ranging from elegant antique furniture to rare foreign memorabilia. But it isn’t just the museum’s displays that will catch your eye—the gorgeous teak structure itself boasts a great deal of early 20th century charm.

16 Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300. Open Tue-Sun 9:30am-3pm

30 W H E R E T H A I LAND I MA RCH 2 0 1 6

Attractions_Mar_2016.indd 30

2/18/16 8:26 PM

GUIDE

ART

Y

YENAKART VILLA

One of Bangkok's most striking private galleries is this modernist, multi-purpose space that hosts monthly exhibitions from both local and visiting international artists.

The building's soaring ceilings, expansive glass and crisp white facade are as beautiful as the artwork. Since opening, it's become something of a meeting point for artists, critics and collectors thanks to regular private events, but the rest of us can visit too— if we make an appointment.

69 Soi Prasat Suk, Yen Akat Rd., 02-235-9800. www.fb.com/yenakartvilla

Hot Spots TOP EXHIBITIONS THIS MONTH

1

Y SPOTLIGHT

SIAM THAI BETWEEN TIMES

A group exhibition by seven photographers exploring the roots of Siam and Thailand through the country’s most enduring characteristics, traditions and festivals.

Through Apr 7. Foto United Gallery, 519 Phra Sumen Rd., 02-629-2841

LOVE IMPRESSIONS

4 EXODUSK

2

EXODUSK

Isara Singhatokaew, Maethawee Chiraphong and Pittawas Euavongkul showcase their intricate, complex sketches exploring the way humans and man-made objects contort the nature around us.

Through Mar 27. Kalwit Studio & Gallery, Ruam Rudi Rd. BTS Nana.

3

LOVE IMPRESSIONS

Lampu Kansanoh presents her series of caricature oil paintings depicting the funny, sad and heartwarming moments in her relationship with her long-term boyfriend.

Through Mar 20. Ardel Gallery of Modern Art, 99/45 Borommarachonnanee Rd., 02-422-2092

5

METAMORPHOSIS

A multidisciplinary art project by Olga Volodina that uses photography, dance performance and light installations to express the fragility of human conscience and how mass media affects it.

Mar 10-24. YenakArt Villa Art Gallery, 69 Soi Prasat Suk

Nestled inside a sub soi off Sukhumvit Soi 71 (behind MaxValu supermarket), just a few minutes' walk from BTS Phra Khanong, this shop house gallery boasts a minimal interior lined with art pieces.

There are DJ decks in one corner, while on the other side of the room is a makeshift drip coffee bar. Past exhibitions have focused on street art from Thai and Japanese artists, and Japanese photography.

THE JOURNEY

Argentinian freelance photographer Walter Astrada showcases the black and white street photography he’s taken while touring the world on a Royal Enfield motorbike. So far, he’s ventured across India, South Korea, Russia, Mongolia and many more places since he left his home eight months ago.

March 11. Cho Why, 17 Soi Nana, Pom Prap Sattru Phai Rd. MRT Hua Lamphong.

GOJA Gallery Cafe

5/2 Pridi Soi 3, 085-848-7576. OpenTue-Sun midnight9pm. BTS Phra Khanong METAMORPHOSIS

MARCH 2016 I W HER E THA ILA N D 31

Art_Mar_2016.indd 31

2/18/16 8:28 PM

Y

GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Phahon Yothin ¾ËÅâ¸Թ

Lat Phrao ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

Chatuchak Park Êǹ¨µØ¨Ñ¡Ã

Chao Phraya River áÁ‹¹้Ó਌ҾÃÐÂÒ

Kamphaeng Phet ¡ÓᾧྪÃ

Bang Sue ºÒ§«×่Í

Ratchadapisek ÃѪ´ÒÀÔàÉ¡

Mo Chit ËÁͪԵ

2

Sutthisan ÊØ·¸ÔÊÒÃ

Saphan Khwai Êоҹ¤ÇÒÂ

Huai Khwang ËÑÇ¢ÇÒ§

Ari ÍÒÃÕÂ

Thailand Cultural Centre Èٹ ÇѲ¹¸ÃÃÁáË‹§»ÃÐà·Èä·Â

Sanam Pao ʹÒÁ໇Ò

!0

Ratchawithi Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒªÇÔ¶Õ

3

Phra Athit ·‹ÒàÃ×;ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

Victory Monument ͹ØàÊÒÇÃÕÂ

4

To Suvarnabhumi Airport

Phaya Thai ¾ÞÒä·

5

!7

7 Tha Chang ·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹ÒªŒÒ§

!5!6

Sukhumvit ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

!8 Chit Lom ªÔ´ÅÁ

Siam ÊÂÒÁ

Ratchadamri ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

Phloen Chit à¾ÅÔ¹¨Ôµ

Nana ¹Ò¹Ò

Asok ÍâÈ¡

!4

!3

!2

Phetchaburi ྪúØÃÕ

Ramkhamhaeng ÃÒÁ¤Óá˧

Phetchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ªÃºØÃÕ

Ratchathewi ÃÒªà·ÇÕ

National Stadium ʹÒÁ¡ÕÌÒ áË‹§ªÒµÔ

Makkasan ÁÑ¡¡ÐÊѹ

Ratchaprarop ÃÒª»ÃÒö

Phaya Thai ¾ÞÒä·

Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒª´Óà¹Ô¹¡ÅÒ§

6 Wang Lang ·‹ÒàÃ×Í ÇѧËÅѧ

Phra Ram 9 ¾ÃÐÃÒÁ 9

Phrom Phong ¾ÃŒÍÁ¾§É

Thong Lo ·Í§ËÅ‹Í Ekkamai àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

Queen Sirikit National Conv.

Centre Èٹ »ÃЪØÁ áË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Phra Khanong ¾ÃÐ⢹§

Yaowarat Rd.

8

!1

Tha Tien ·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹ÒàµÕ¹

Ratcha wong ·‹ÒàÃ×Í ÃҪǧ¤

Sam Yan ÊÒÁ‹ҹ

Hua Lamphong ËÑÇÅÓ⾧

Si Phraya ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÕ¾ÃÐÂÒ

Lumphini ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

Silom ÊÕÅÁ

Bang Chak ºÒ§¨Ò¡

Khlong Toei ¤ÅͧàµÂ

Punnawithi »Ø³³ÇÔ¶Õ

Sala Daeng ÈÒÅÒá´§

9 m

Silo

Á

¹ÊÕÅ

¹ .¶

Rd

Chong Nonsi ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ

Oriental ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕ¹àµÅ

d.

nR hor

Udom Suk ÍØ´ÁÊØ¢

à ÊÒ·

¶¹¹

Bang Na ºÒ§¹Ò

Sat

Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã

To Bang Wa Station

Surasak ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Chao Phraya River áÁ‹¹้Ó਌ҾÃÐÂÒ

1 Rama III Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ 3

Key

Bearing áºÃÔ่§

Sukhumvit Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

Saphan Taksin Êоҹ µÒ¡ÊÔ¹

Krung Thon Buri ¡Ãا¸¹ºØÃÕ

1 Asiatique the Riverfont

!0 Victory Monument

Main road

2 Chatuchak Market

!1 Yaowarat (Chinatown)

BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

3 Vimanmek Mansion

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumphini Park

MRT

5 Khao San Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

!5 Siam Paragon

River/Klong (canal)

7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

!6 CentralWorld and Zen

8 Wat Pho

!7 Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

9 Wat Arun

!8 Central Chidlom, Central Embassy

Pier

Y

On Nut ͋͹¹Øª

FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

32 W H E R E T H A I LAND I MA RCH 2 0 1 6

Navigate_Mar_2016.indd 32

2/18/16 8:29 PM

GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Y

Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service.

Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price.

There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS­ Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines.

Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130.

The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40.

There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak.

Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS­ While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 MARCH 2016 I W HER E THA ILA N D 33

Navigate_Mar_2016.indd 33

2/18/16 8:29 PM

Y

21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

1

3

!2 1 Catching a long-tail boat upriver to Baan Silapin, the century-old wooden house where Thai puppet shows are performed daily. See page 4.

!1

!3

!7

7 Discovering Michelin-star-wor- !3 Spending a sunny day surfing and !8 Looking down at the city view from thy traditional Thai dishes at David Thompson’s Nahm. See page 25.

bodyboarding at Flow House’s urban water park. See page 30.

Above Eleven, a rooftop bar located in one of Bangkok’s nightlife hubs. See page 26.

8 Bouncing around in a warehouse !4 Browsing through some of 2 Spending an evening at Asiatique, filled with 80 trampolines at Bounce Chatuchak Weekend Market’s many !9 Savoring the authentic royal Thai the giant riverside development that’s home to shops, restaurants, bars and cultural performances. See page 4.

Thailand. See page 30.

stalls for vintage bric-a-brac early Sunday morning before the crowd shows up. See page 28.

cuisine at Blue Elephant, a fine-dining institution set in a beautifully restored mansion. See page 23.

3 Sipping on a ya dong cocktail while

9 Sampling the modern yet authentically flavored Thai food of Benjarong. See page 23.

listening to traditional Thai music at Tep Bar. See page 20.

!0 Spending a cultural day at Viman- sipping on a coffee from the on-site page 28.

ment at Humming Hair Salon, while mek Palace, which houses royal col-

4 Grabbing a beer and shopping lections of photography, textiles and for vintage bargains at Rod Fai Night Market. See page 28.

!5 Getting a pampering hair appoint- @0 Shopping for luxury silk products

clocks. See page 30.

cafe. See page 29.

@1 Feeling the rhythm inside us on !6 Beating our friends at the seven Asia’s first body kinetic dance floor different game modes of laser tag at

!1 Tasting the creatively crafted Lazgam Laser Games. See page 30.

5 Taking in the sweeping views of the city with a colorful cocktail in hand at Octave, a rooftop bar in the trendy Thonglor area. See page 26.

dishes at Err, a riverside restaurant specializing in casual Thai dining. See page 11.

!2 Sitting ringside and blending with 6 Hanging out with the city’s coolest the locals while watching a muay locals and expats at Smalls, a laidback cocktail lounge set in a corner shop-house. See page 26.

at Jim Thompson’s original store. See

at Thonglor’s latest nightclub, Beam.

See page 26.

!7 Finding handcrafted vintage nightwear at Treasures, tucked in Thonglor’s brand new hip community mall.

See page 28.

Thai fight at Rajadamnern Stadium.

See page 7.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

34 W H E R E T H AILAND I MA RCH 2 0 1 6

21things_Mar_2016_NEW.indd 34

2/19/16 7:08 PM

Where to find Hotels in Bangkok The AETAS Bangkok All Seasons Bangkok Siam Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11 Amari Watergate Amara Bangkok Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa Arnoma Baan Noppawong Bally’s Studio Suites Banyan Tree Bangkok Best Western Sukhumvit Cabochon Hotel & Residence Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Centara Grand at Central World Centara Hotels & Resorts Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok Conrad Bangkok

where Thailand

Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok

Ramada Encore Bangkok

Swissotel Le Concorde

Park

Marriott Sukhumvit 57

Ramada Plaza Menam Riverside

Swissotel Nai Lert Park

Dusit Thani Bangkok

Mercure & Ibis Bangkok Siam

Renaissance Bangkok

VIE Hotel Bangkok

Emporium Suites

The Metropolitan Bangkok

Ratchaprasong

ViVa Garden

Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn

Millennium Hilton

Riva Surya

W Hotel Bangkok

Four Points by Sheraton

Miracle Grand Convention

Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel &

The Westin Grande Sukhumvit

Four Seasons Bangkok

Montien Riverside

Towers

Grand Hyatt Erawan

Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit

Siam Kempinski

Grand Mercure Park Avenue

Sukhumvit

Shangri-La Bangkok

Grand Millennium Sukhumvit

Novotel Bangkok Siam Square

Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit

Holiday Inn Silom

Novotel Bangkok Impact

The Berkeley Hotel

Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22

Oaks Bangkok Sathorn

The Continent Hotel Bangkok

Hotel Muse

The Okura Prestige Bangkok

The Davis Bangkok

InterContinental Bangkok

Park Plaza Sukhumvit

The Eugenia Hotel & Spa

JW Marriott Bangkok

Pathumwan Princess

The Siam

The Landmark Bangkok

The Peninsula Bangkok

Siam @ Siam Design Hotel & Spa

Le Fenix Sukhumvit

Phachara Suites

Sivatel Bangkok

LIT Bangkok

Plaza Athénée Bangkok

Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit

Luxx

Pullman Bangkok King Power

Sofitel So Bangkok

Majestic Grande

Radisson Blu Plaza

The St. Regis Bangkok

Mandarin Hotel

Radisson Suites Bangkok

The Sukhothai Bangkok

WHERE DISTRIBUTION LIST_Mar_2016.indd 35

Y

Where reaches over 100,000 visitors each month. For sales enquiries, contact advertising@asia-city. co.th or call 02-6249638.

2/18/16 8:33 PM

  

P.36 Dusit_Mar_2016.indd 40

2/19/16 11:00 AM