Where® Thailand November 2015

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NO V E M B E R 2 0 1 5 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

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GO WITH THE FLOW

The top spots to dine and drink along the Chao Phraya

Bangkok’s Best Shopping Samui’s Real Flavors YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO BANGKOK’S HOT SPOTS COVER_NOV_2015_2.indd 1

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CONTENTS where

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l THAILAND l NOVEMBER 2015

The Guide BANGKOK 25 DINING For a true taste of Thai-style dining, check out Bangkokians' favorite seafood haunts.

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26 NIGHTLIFE The weather's getting cooler and Bangkok's alfresco bars are coming to life. Here's where to grab a drink in the open air.

RIVER RETREATS

28 EXHIBITIONS The hottest exhibitions in Bangkok's galleries this month.

The top spots to eat and drink on the Chao Phraya.

29 SHOPS+SERVICES

SHOPPING

What to stock up on the best Thai fashion? Check out these leading local womenswear labels.

10 MARKET TIME From local fashion to vintage finds, Bangkok's markets have it all. Here are the best.

Looking for something different? Here are the most unique spa experiences in town, from salt caves to contemporary wellness retreats.

AROUND THAILAND

31 ATTRACTIONS

14 AUTHENTIC SAMUI

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30 HEALTH+WELLNESS

There's plenty to explore on the outskirts of Bangkok, like these top day-trip destinations.

Want to know where the islanders eat? It's here, at these time-proven restaurants serving the freshest of seafood.

32 NAVIGATE Essential tips on getting around.

EXPLORING 18 SUKHUMVIT SOI 51-65 From Thonglor's swanky bars to Ekkamai's cool coffee shops, these streets are lined with some of Bangkok's most vibrant places.

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20 OLD TOWN There's a whole lot more to Bangkok's Old Town than the Grand Palace and Wat Pho. Here's where to eat, drink and shop in between a day of sightseeing.

General Manager Andrew Hiransomboon

Junior Designer Wariya Whangwaewklang

Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grégoire Glachant

Staff Writer Pinnyada Tanitnon

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon

Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Lily Kittisrikangwan, Natcha Saguankiattichai

Regional Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Senior Designer Panita Thiraphapong

Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant On the cover View of Chao Phraya River

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HOT DATES

34 21 THINGS WE LOVE

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.

Com

MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th

ALSO INSIDE

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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SHOPPING

MARKET DAYS

Bangkok may be home to many luxury malls, but here’s where the locals shop for their goods.

ASIATIQUE

SIAM GYPSY JUNCTION

ROD FAI MARKET 2

NIGHT BAZAARS SIAM GYPSY JUNCTION You’ll find an array of secondhand and faux-old items ranging from nostalgic Thai sweets and old-school toys to Harley-Davidson collectibles and time-honored home curios like porcelain kitchenware at this oriental-meets-Wild-West themed market. There are a number of pop-up bars too, most of which have a cross-continental tavern kind of vibe. Don’t forget to check out Bus Bangkok, a modified double-decker van with an expanded retro rooftop drinking area.

95/20 Bangkok-Nonthaburi Rd., Open Wed-Sun 6pm-1am. Take the BTS to Bang Sue station, then flag down a tuk-tuk to the market

SIAM GYPSY JUNCTION

ROD FAI MARKET 2

ASIATIQUE

ROD FAI MARKET 2

The first shopping center to sit on the riverbank is themed according to the city’s architecture of old. It includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashion and intriguing souvenirs, as well as a variety of eateries, beer gardens and wine bars. The gigantic venue is also home to a ferris wheel and stage shows. We like the seafood at Baan Khanitha and Kodang Talay (see page 25). Free ferry from Sathorn Pier.

Tucked behind the Esplanade Complex, you’ll find a vibrant bazaar of street fashion, food and home decor. Though the space is small, the street eats are endless, from spicy salads to on-the-go meat skewers. The highlight for fashion hunters are the piles and piles of pre-loved clothes that knock other vintage markets’ selections into the shadows. Looking for something bigger to ship home? The decor section is a retro goldmine, spanning faux 18th-century grandfather clocks to neon-lit Heineken billboards.

2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488. Open daily 5pm-midnight. Free ferry from Saphan Taksin Pier, BTS Saphan Taksin

Ratchadaphisek Rd., Behind Esplanade Shopping Mall. 092-713-5599. Open Thu-Sun 5pm-midnight.

MRT Thai Cultural Center

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FLOATING MARKETS AMPHAWA Take a taxi 1.5 hours outside of Bangkok to reach possibly Thailand’s most charming and authentic floating market. Expect to see plenty more locals than tourists crowding the waterways of Mae Klong River, tucking into delicious traditional Thai dishes like the steamed vermicelli and prawns, authentic drinks like cha yen (orange ice tea) and various traditional desserts made from sugar palm and coconut.

Take a boat trip in the evening to see the fireflies while enjoying the charm of the traditional canal-side way of living.

DAMNOEN SADUAK

Next to Amphawan temple, Amphawa District, Samut Songkram. Open Fri-Sun 3-9pm

DAMNOEN SADUAK At Thailand’s most famous floating market, experience photogenic scenes straight from tourism brochures of canals packed with rowing boats. The market has been a trading spot for fresh fruit and vegetables for several decades and the best way to explore is still to hop on a boat, get among the hustle and bustle and sample the local produce on offer. Make sure you get there early, though, as most of the vendors start packing away after 10am.

Damnoen Saduak, Ratchaburi. Open daily 5am-noon

KWAN-REAM Get there before 7:30am to see boats of monks making their way down the canal for the local almsgiving ceremony, after which business opens for you to have your fill of local delicacies. Don’t miss highlights like grilled pork from Trang province, kanom jeen nam ngeow (rice noodles in rib soup), khaosoi (Northern noodle curry) from Lampang and yam pak wan (sweet vegetable salad) from Saraburi. There are also shops selling clothes, souvenirs and handicrafts.

DAMNOEN SADUAK

AMPHAWA

"One of the rare tailors that Bangkokians love to recommend." _ WHERE Thailand

FEATURED IN

Seri-Thai Soi 60, Open Sat-Sun 7am-8pm

Pinky Tailor Mahatun Plaza Arcade, 888/40 Ploenchit Rd., Bangkok. BTS Ploenchit (Exit 2).

02-253-6328, 02-253-5055.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm (Sun by appointment). www.pinkytailor.com

KWAN-REAM

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SHOPPING

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ALL-DAY STROLLS CHATUCHAK MARKET This weekend bazaar can be a daunting shopping experience. Spread over a 70-rai plot of land, the sprawling web of 15,000 stalls is one of the world’s largest markets. You’ll find everything from food, furniture, books, plants, clothes and antiques to puppies and exotic pets.

Section 3, just outside Kamphaeng Phet MRT station, is the most design-forward part of the market, home to both established and up-andcoming Thai artists.

Next to Chatuchak Park, Kamphaeng Phet Rd. Open Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. BTS Mo Chit

PAK KLONG TALAD

CHATUCHAK MARKET

At Bangkok’s largest flower market, fresh blooms from around Thailand (and the world) arrive before being distributed to hotels, restaurants and small retailers. You’ll find everything from local jasmine to imported red roses. The market is open 24 hours, but the liveliest period is probably from midnight-4am, when the day’s fresh batch starts to arrive and the authentic trading action takes place.

PAK KLONG TALAD

From Memorial Bridge to Khlong Lord, Chak Phet Rd. Open 24 hours

WANG LANG MARKET Thais of all ages pack out this riverside market on the lesser-visited Thonburi side to shop for food, toys, and, the highlight, secondhand clothes for men and women—all at incredibly low prices.

Most visitors reach the market by boat from Sathorn Pier or Prachan Pier.

CHATUCHAK MARKET

Siriraj Pier, Wang Lang Rd., Open daily 10am-6pm

WANG LANG MARKET

CRAFT LIFE The best Thai brands for handmade keepsakes.

ALEXANDER LAMONT

Yarnnakarn Art & Craft Studio

Jim Thomopson

Launched in 2010, Yarnnakarn Art & Craft Studio is leading the new wave of Bangkok potters thanks to classical designs spruced up with bold finishes. The products range from tableware to home decor and animal sculptures.

This pioneering Thai silk brand stocks silk clothes and accessories in a classic and palatial space, paneled with teak from wall to wall. There are other branches at Jim Thompson House (a must-visit within walking distance of BTS National Stadium) as well as various malls and five-star hotels around Bangkok.

Open Tue-Fri 11am-6pm; Sat-Sun 11am-7pm MRT Kampaengpetch (Exit 1)

Alexander Lamont Drawing from his experiences living in both Europe and Asia, Alexander Lamont’s beautiful decor items successfully blend European techniques with the subtle mystique of Asian art. The materials, from bronze to stingray skin, are always luxurious and meticulously handcrafted by the local artisans under Alexander Lamont’s employ, ensuring that each piece of furniture is both unique and meaningful.

THINGG BY THINKK

2/F Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5772.

Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

9 Surawong Rd., 02--632-8100. Open daily 9am-9pm.

BTS Sala Daeng

Thingg by Thinkk Internationally acclaimed Bangkok-based furniture studio Thinkk has now launched a sister brand that gets in touch with its Thai roots. Thingg works with Thai craftspeople to create designs like woven lampshades, placemats and bottle openers.

Available at Anymoon, The Jam Factory, 41/1-5 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-861-0950

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HOT DATES

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NOV 27-28

Art Crawl

Thirty-eight of Bangkok’s best art galleries and art spaces open late to host Galleries Night Bangkok: a special series of exhibition openings, art discussions and musical performances.

Highlights include a contemporary jewelry exhibition at ATTA Gallery and a photography exhibition of socially challenging portraits at Alliance Francaise Bangkok. Past events have been a great way to explore the city as visitors make their way along Silom and Sukhumvit’s artistic hot spots.

Along Sukhumvit and Silom roads, 7pm-late. www.facebook. com/galleriesnight

NOV 7

NOV 13-23

NOV 21

NOV 25

After taking on Malaysia and China, The Music Run makes it way to Bangkok for a 5km fun run where the track is split into five music genres—one for each kilometer. The soundtrack includes rock, pop, old school, hip-hop and dance songs chosen in advance by participants. In keeping with the name, a music festival greets runners after the finish line, featuring live performances from artists such as Lipta, and DJ Gyro.

The 13th annual Bangkok Theater Festival returns this year, drawing in more performers, directors and theater lovers than any other theater event in the country. In celebration of Thailand’s up-and-coming theater troupes, the Bangkok Theatre Network hosts 12 days of performances under the theme “New View, New Eyes” that will include over 70 performances across all genres, as well as improv workshops and post-show discussions.

The Thai Craft Fair is a great place to stock up on gifts for friends and family back home. And it’s for a good cause.

Consisting of stalls from 50 different fairtrade producer groups from around the country, all purchases from this event will contribute to protecting the livelihoods of local producers and the heritage of Thai crafts.

This month sees the celebration of Loy Krathong Festival when Thais float krathong (small baskets made out of banana leaves and decorated with flowers and a candle) along the Chao Phraya River or any convenient canal or pond. Why? To symbolize letting go of anger and misfortune during the full moon. To see Loy Krathong at its most vibrant in Bangkok, head to Saphan Taksin Pier.

BORN TO RUN

Suanluang Rama 9 Public Park, Sukhumvit Soi 103, 02-328-8982.

Tickets B700-1,100 at www.themusicrun.com

CENTER STAGE

Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre (BACC), 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-2602606-8. BTS National Stadium

LOCAL CRAFT

L/F, Jasmine City Building , Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-204-5888. BTS Asoke

FLOAT ON

At most hotels along the Chao Phraya River. Free ferry from Saphan Taksin Pier. BTS Saphan Taksin

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DINING

CHAO DOWN

The best spots to eat and drink on the Chao Phraya River.

SHEEPSHANK

SALA RATTANAKOSIN

SALA RATTANAKOSIN It might be a boutique hotel, but half of this four-story renovated shop-house is dedicated to wining and dining in full view of the riverside’s star attraction, Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn). Pull up a seat on the outdoor terrace to feast on a menu that goes down two routes: one, elegantly plated Thai classics and regional specialties; the other, Western bistro food like crispy pork belly and tuna tatare. For us though, the highlight is its rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping a great selection of cocktails.

Sala Rattanakosin Hotel, Maharaj Rd., 02-622-1388.

Open daily 7-10:30am, 11am-4:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm.

Tha Tien Pier

SALA RIM NAAM The signature Thai restaurant of Bangkok’s most pedigreed hotel serves mild yet authentic flavors, with nods to Royal cuisine and an emphasis on quality ingredients. It’s set on the other side of the river from the main hotel, with a terrace that overlooks the

water for al fresco dining. Recommended dishes include goong phad prik daeng (fried prawn with garlic and red chili sauce) and the massamun nuea (Southern-style beef curry with sweet potato and onion).

Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave., Charoenาrung Rd., 02-659-9000 ext 7333. Free ferry from BTS Saphan Taksin. Open daily noon-3pm, 5pm-midnight

TRADER VIC’S Known for its Mai Tai cocktails and Pacific Rim cuisine, the Polynesian-inspired Trader Vic’s also has a good selection of grilled meats and fish, plus foie gras and French oysters. A stunning view of the river is a bonus, as are the signature dishes like Ahi Poke, raw tuna with avocado, soy-chili dressing, taro chips and barbecued spareribs in Trader Vic’s classic barbecue sauce. The Sunday brunch is a great way to feel on vacation without leaving Bangkok.

TRADER VIC’S

Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort, 257/1-3 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-476-0022. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am; Sun 11:30am-3pm. Free ferry from BTS Saphan Taksin ANGELINI

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SHEEPSHANK Set in what was once an old boatyard right

by Phra Arthit Pier, you can still see remnants of this former life, in the form of the old pulleys, crates and buoys that adorn a dining area that’s been polished up in an industrial style. There is a nice outdoor dining area, but if it gets too hot, seat yourself in the air-con and enjoy Modern American comfort dishes like the vegetable tagine with almond chickpea couscous and oxtail tortellini with brown butter and walnuts. They also serve a decent selection of wines, plus lots of craft beers.

47 Phra Arthit Rd., 02-629-5165. Open Tue-Thu 5:30pm-midnight; Fri-Sun 5:30pm-1am. Phra Arthit Pier

ANGELINI Chef Omar Ugoletti honed his craft during stints at two-Michelin-starred establishments, Uliassi and La Madonnina del Pescatore in Italy, and his dishes combine modern techniques and beautiful presentation. Signature recipes include the crab cake served with Schrenckii caviar and the Baccheri pasta with salt cod, cherry tomatoes and Taggiasca olives. Top it all off with five-star hotel service and a river view.

DINNER CRUISES

Manohra

Grand Pearl

Horizon Boat

This intimate cruise on a restored old rice barge offers two Thai set dinner packages. Gold comprises 12 dishes and Silver eight dishes.

Expect to try classic Thai fare like tom yum goong (spicy prawn soup with herbs and lime juice) and massaman nong kai (chicken massaman curry), while enjoying beautiful views of Wat Pho and Wat Arun. Finish your meal with scrumptious Thai desserts like khao niew mamoung (mango sticky rice).

Leaving the River City Shopping Complex daily at 7:30pm, the three-story ferry includes an open-air seating area as well as air-conditioned cabins. The scenic views are accompanied by live music and classical Thai dance performances, while the international buffet features classic Thai dishes and a sushi corner.

This luxurious, air-conditioned cruiser can fit up to 150 people and sets off from the Shangri-La Hotel’s pier at about 7:30pm, with drinks on deck. The food is served buffet-style and has plenty to offer, including seafood, sushi, vegetarian and popular Thai dishes.

The boat sails past Bangkok’s riverside attractions then returns to the hotel at about 9:30pm. Runs every day except Monday and Tuesday.

Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa, 257 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-477-0770

River City Shopping Complex Pier, 123-125 Charoen Nakorn Soi 13, 02-861-0255

Shangri-La Hotel, Charoenkrung Soi 89, 02-236-7777

Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, Charoen Krung Rd., 02-236-7777. Open daily 6-10:30pm. BTS Saphan Taksin

CHON The luxurious Siam Hotel is a destination in itself, and its signature restaurant, Chon, is no less beautiful than the rest of this sprawling, Art Deco-themed riverside mansion.

Here, though, the style is utterly Thai. The teak building was brought down river to Bangkok from Ayutthaya, Thailand’s ancient capital, and is filled with antique Buddhas and elegant pieces of furniture. The food is simple and authentic, with dishes that represent Thailand’s various culinary regions, from the curries of Chiang Mai to papaya salads of Isaan.

The Siam, 3/2 Khao Rd., 02-206-6999. Open daily noon-11pm. Call to arrange shuttle boat pick up at BTS Saphan Taksin

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DINING

THIPTARA

THIPTARA

NAVIGATING THE RIVER

THIPTARA

NANG GIN KUI

Thiptara means water from the heavens in Thai, a fitting name for the open-air pavilions surrounded by gardens and furnished with antiques and traditional artworks. The kitchen serves up traditional dishes from Thailand’s different regions, such as gaeng phed ped yang (roasted duck in red curry) and pla hima sam rod (deep fried snow fish with spicy, sweet and sour sauce).

Settle in for a night of good food in a homey setting up on the 15th floor of a residential building. Nang Gin Kui is a self-proclaimed “guerilla dining” operation run by a couple— architect Florian Gypser and avid foodie Goy Siwaporn—who like to let perfect strangers share their private space with winning views of the Chao Phraya River. The end result is something akin to throwing a good house party, only without the hassle of cooking and cleaning up.

The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoen Nakorn, 02-8612888. Open daily 6-10:30pm. Free ferry from BTS Saphan Taksin

THREESIXTY JAZZ LOUNGE HOTEL SHUTTLE BOATS

River Ferries One of the most convenient ways to travel via river is to board a tourist ferry from Saphan Taksin Pier. Look out for a tourist ferry with a blue flag, which will stop at whichever pier you want. Prices are B40 a trip, or you can ask for a B100 all-day pass. While you travel, a staff member will point out important sites around the river as well.

Hotel Shuttle Boats All five-star hotels by the river come equipped with shuttles that will bring their guests to and from their hotels and the Saphan Taksin Pier. Even if you’re not staying at that hotels, you can still enjoy this free service to the hotels’ restaurants.

THREESIXTY JAZZ LOUNGE

The indoor rooftop jazz bar at the Hilton hotel isn’t going to win any prizes for ambience, but as far as incredible city views go, it stands alone. Flanked in every direction by slanted glass windows, guests can look out across all of central Bangkok from the less-visited Thonburi side of the river while sipping on a cocktail or glass of wine. Aim to get there just before sunset to enjoy the the twilight sky over Wat Arun and the Grand Palace at its most stunning.

Millenium Hilton Bangkok, 123 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-442-2000. Open daily 5pm-1am. Free ferry from BTS Saphan Taksin

868 Soi Vanit 2., Charoenkrung Soi 20, 085-9046996

SAMBAL The stylish riverside venue serves Southeast Asian cuisine with a contemporary touch. Opt to sit under the enormous banyan tree, close to the cabana-like bar and picturesque river scene. Apart from the five-star views, you can expect delightful dishes like the Bali bouillabaisse—rich in both texture and flavor. There is a strong list of tropical-feeling signature cocktails, too, such as Mangkut Drowning: Barbados dark rum with mangosteen puree.

Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 2 Charoenkrung Soi 30, 02-266-9214. Open daily 5-10:30pm, 4pm-1am. Free ferry from BTS Saphan Taksin

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VIVA AVIV Pirate chic meets industrial charm at this always-popular riverside watering hole. Old wooden crates form the bar, with lobster traps accessorizing the walls and sailboat hardware hanging from the ceiling. Soak up the river view and enjoy bistro-style food and inventive, well-made cocktails like the Pina Colasi (Appleton Jamaican rum, fresh pineapple, orange and black pepper syrup, citrus and fresh young coconut foam).

G/F, River City Shopping Complex, 23 Yotha Rd., 02639-6305. Open daily 11am-midnight. Sri Phaya Pier

BABBLE & RUM The main restaurant (ground floor) and bar (second floor) of this welcoming riverside hotel next to Phra Arthit Pier are decorated like a contemporary French cafe, finished in dark woods, mirrors and leather-clad couches. An outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area make it the perfect spot for a chilled night out. The menu features Thai and inter-comfort food and plenty of cocktails. Try the Jelly Riva (vodka, melon syrup, lime juice on top of jelly).

CONCIERGE PICKS The concierges at some of Bangkok’s top riverside hotels tell us where they advise their guests to head by the river.

Mayshiya Cheephat Millennium Hilton

Fonthip Punsriket The Siam Hotel

Khanut Bunnooklub Anantara Riverside

“For an authentic Thai dinner right by the river, head over to Mango Tree at the Yod Piman River Walk (390/17 Banmoh Rd., Wangburapapirom, 02-6236851). It’s charming, it’s romantic, and if you sit on the patio, you’ll get beautiful nighttime views of the river.”

“There is so much to do by the river. If you’re looking to explore, go to the Phra Artit Pier and spend the day visiting temples, such as the Grand Palace and Wat Pho. If you want to eat, I would recommend going to The Never Ending Summer (41/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-861-0953) for some Thai food in a rustic setting, and if you want to buy handicrafts and souvenirs, visit the newly renovated River City mall. (23 Trok Rongnamkeang Yotha Rd. 02-237-0077).”

“The riverside is great, because you’ll get to experience a slow lifemeets-urban vibe. I recommend spending an evening at Asiatique (2129 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-1084488). There, you can watch cultural shows, get lots of Thai-made gifts, and it’s also home to many great restaurants. My personal favorite is Checkmate Bar & Bistro, where they serve Thai fusion dishes.

After dinner, I can walk over to the spot that allows me to see the stunning view of the Chao Phraya River.”

1-2/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Athit Rd., 02-633-5000.

Open daily 6:30am-10:30pm. Phra Arthit Pier

BABBLE & RUM

VIVA AVIV

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AROUND THAILAND

AUTHENTIC SAMUI

When islanders go out to eat in Samui, they don’t go to fancy beach bars or fine-dining restaurants. They go to these classic fresh seafood strongholds that no visitors should miss either.

KHAO HORM

KRUA CHAO BAAN

KHAO HORM

KOSENG

HAAD BANG POR

KOSENG RESTAURANT

HAAD BANG POR

Though the sliding glass doors and bland white walls don’t carry much charm, people still flock to this quiet seafood restaurant for its intriguing blend of Southern and Chinese dishes made using ingredients pulled from the Gulf of Thailand that morning. But it’s not just about the seafood; the owners also grow their own organic vegetables to use in the kitchen. We like the pla krapong nueng sii ew (seabass simmered in soy sauce), or if you want to try a very traditional dish, order the sator pad kapi (stir-fried stinky bean with fermented shrimp paste).

This restaurant serves potent local flavors in a rustic setting, with dishes whipped up by a chef with over 20 years’ experience working in high-end hotels. It’s best known for its classic local seafood dishes like the khai jiew hor mok (spicy seafood curry omelet), waii kua (stir-fried octopus in dried curry) and pla song naam (deep-fried seabass with spicy and sour sauce). They also provide free nam prik kapi (shrimp paste) for every table. Many local restaurants on the beach strip carry similar names, so when you visit, look out for the one right by the speed limit sign.

95 Moo 1, Taweeratpakdee Rd., Maenam, 077-425365. Open daily 10am-6pm

Moo 4, Had Bang Por Beach, Maenam, 081-7888936. Open daily 11am-6pm

It’s easy to miss this hole-in-the-wall restaurant near the airport, so keep an eye out for a large bamboo hut with open-air seating and a well-kept garden. The generations’old Samui family who run the place turn out a moo kua kapi (stir-fried pork with shrimp paste) that keeps the crowds coming back, while their gaeng som (Southern curry) with shrimp and pak liang (stir-fried local leaves with eggs) are also popular.

34-35 Moo 4, Beach Rd, Bophut, 087-413-4084.

Open daily 9am-10pm

SABIENGLAE RESTAURANT The massive, two-story restaurant by Maret Beach specializes in hard-to-find Southern seafood dishes with a spicy kick. The plating might not be up to much, but that doesn’t detract a down-to-earth crowd from the delicious flavors in their pla krapong tod nam pla (deep-fried sea bass in fish sauce) and tom som pla krabok (spicy and sour mullet fish soup with veggies).

438/82 Moo 1, Maret, 077-233-082. Open 11am11pm

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KANOM JEEN PA LEK Tucked away in the less-touristy Maret district, this little gem specializes in kanomjeen (rice noodles) topped with Thai curry pastes such as nam ya tai (Southern-style curry), nam prik (sweet soup) and gaeng tai pla (Southern spicy soup with fish). The chef, who’s been selling here for more than 30 years, also serves other Samui classics like khao yam (rice topped with chopped fresh vegetables with Southern gravy) and pad mee kati (stir-fried noodle with coconut sauce).

Opposite Wat Samret, Maret, 081-477-7346. Open Mon-Sat 6am-noon

KRUA CHAO BAAN Sitting in three wooden houses right next to the white sands of Lamai Beach, this restaurant serves a menu big on classic Gulf coast recipes such as yellow gaeng som (spicy sour soup), stir-fried octopus with shrimp paste and pineapple, stir-fried shrimp with

sataw beans and hormok talay (crab eggs in steamed curry). Don’t miss the house specialty, khai-jiew Krua Chao Baan, an omelet that looks more like a Spanish tortilla. As an added bonus, the beach is beautiful so you can work off those calories by taking their free kayak out for a paddle.

438/18 Moo 1, Maret, 077-418-589. Open daily 10am-10pm

KHAW GLONG Home to just six small tables, Khaw Glong gets swarmed from the moment it opens.

Here, you’ll find all sorts of Thai dishes ranging from the pla preaw wan (deep-fried tilapia in sweet and sour sauce) to kana moo grob (stir-fried Chinese kale in sweet and sour sauce). Keep in mind that dishes are made using whatever’s found in the local fresh market that day, so the menu often changes. What always remains the same is the deliciously authentic Southern flavors.

23/285 Moo 4, Bontji Rd., Bophut, 092-447-4837.

Open Mon-Sat 5-10pm

CHAN HORM Nestled on the quieter Bang Phor beach, this open-air restaurant has been serving Southern Thai dishes for over 10 years. There isn’t much to see when it comes to their decor, but ask anyone living in the area and they’ll name this as their go-to restaurant. The best-selling dish is the tod mun pla insee (king mackerel fish cakes), but also do try their pad pak miang (stir-fried melinjo with eggs) and crunchy pla krabok pad kamin (deep-fried mullet fish in turmeric).

7/3 Bang Por Beach, Maenam, 077-236-458. Open daily 10am-11pm

KRUA CHAO BAAN

RUA CHAO BAAN

KANOM JEEN PA LEK

KHAO HORM

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ThewhereGuide NOVEMBER 2015 | BANGKOK NEW

SING SING

Prolific Bangkok-based Aussie designer Ashley Sutton (Maggie Choo’s, Iron Fairies) expresses his Chinoiserie fretish here in a Hollywood vision of 1930s Shanghai that’s all lanterns, red lighting and elaborate metal screens. The petite dance floor acts as a hub for a network of mezzanines, sunken bars and Sutton’s trademark warren of secret passages leading to singletable balconies and speakeasy-style backrooms. Look for the drinks containing Iron Balls, Sutton’s own gin.

Sukhumvit Soi 45 (next to Quince), 097-285-6888.

Open Tue-Sun 8pm-2am. BTS Phrom Phong

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 23 DINING 26 NIGHTLIFE

28 ART 29 SHOPS + SERVICES

30 HEALTH + WELLNESS 31 ATTRACTIONS

32 NAVIGATE

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whereExploring NOVEMBER 2015 | BANGKOK

BO.LAN

SUKHUMVIT SOI 51-65 Nearly all the streets—or “soi,” in Thai— along Sukhumvit Road are known by their number. But Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) and Ekkamai (Sukhumvit Soi 63) have made names for themselves. These two parallel streets are quite simply the most buzzing in Bangkok, home to the best bars, clubs and restaurants. Here is our pick of the bunch.

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 18 THONGLOR & EKKAMAI

20 OLD TOWN

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Local guides. Worldwide.

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Free digital subscription to Where速 Singapore for insider tips on where to go and what to do handy city maps & transportation guide

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EXPLORING

THONGLOR & EKKAMAI Y HOT SPOTS

Big in Japan A sizable Japanese community makes this one of Bangkok’s best locations for ramen, sushi and sake.

@2 Honmono Sushi The excellent sushi here is reasonably priced, plus the restaurant isn’t a bewildering experience for neophytes.

Years after opening, it still packs in affluent Thais every night (reservations are a must) with its fresh fish from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo.

19 Thonglor Soi 23, 02-185-1447.

Open Mon-Fri 5pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-2pm

NEW 1 SWEETERY Bangkokians love a good dessert, and this brand new dessert restaurant hits the sweet spot for cheesecake, ice cream, souffles, French toast and more. The space itself is all blacks and bold accent colors, while the kitchen rolls out maximalist Aussie-inspired treats.

Decadent highlights include the Dark S’more (chocolate cookie baked a la minute on a hot skillet and topped with housemade marshmallow, chocolate sauce, toasted hazelnuts and Oreo-vanilla bean ice cream) and various 160ml drinks served in glass jars with Cacao Barry chocolate-coated rim, topped with whipped cream.

3/F, The Taste Thonglor, Thonglor Soi 11, 081-172-1472. Open Tue-Sun noon-9pm. www.fb.com/SweeteryBangkok

THINGS TO DO

SHOPPING

There are only a few art spaces in this neighborhood, but they are among the more interesting in town. 2 Pridi Banomyong Institute (65/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 [Thonglor], 02-3813860-1), for example, is the theater of choice for some of Thailand’s youngest and most experimental dancers and actors. Check the B-Floor Theater Group’s Facebook page (www.fb.com/Bfloor.theatre.group) prior to visiting for up-to-date information on shows. Further down the same street, 3 Ardel’s Third Place Gallery (137137/1 Thonglor Soi 10, 02-714-7929) showcases work from both established and emerging local artists in a striking space, with its concrete floor, vast windows, whitewashed walls and exposed beams steel. After browsing the gallery, head to the next street over to visit 4 Health Land (96/1 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-392-2233), where you’ll get one of the best-priced massages in Bangkok.

Clean, private treatment rooms and efficient staff account for its massive local popularity.

This is hipster central, and shopping around Ekkamai-Thonglor is all about vintage. 5 Machine Age Workshop (281/7 Ekkamai Soi 15, 02-381-8596) is an ambitious vintage fashion and furniture store set in a giant, open-plan warehouse. It specializes in repurposed odds and ends from America’s manufacturing age: army drafting tables, wood radios and leather luggage. They also do a good beef brisket sandwich, if you’re feeling peckish. Be warned, some of the items are pretty expensive, although that doesn’t mean bargains can’t be found. For a more guaranteed wallet-friendly bet, head

MACHINE AGE WORKSHOP

@3 Mikaku This spin-off from an 80-year-old rstaurant in Japan is known for serving some of the most revered Japanese beef in the world. The family’s third-generation owner and chef mans the grill himself, selecting only A4-5 graded wagyu from Kobe and hand-slicing tenderloin and sirloin to the perfect thickness.

103/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, between Thonglor Soi 3 and 5. 02-712-9080.

Open daily 5-11pm; Sat, Sun noon-2pm

AGAIN & AGAIN

up the street to leather-specialist 6 Unfashion (Ekkamai Soi 10, 094421-2411), where brogues, loafers, duck boots, belts and other accessories in various states of disrepair can be browsed while sipping a coffee from the adjoining cafe. Visit 7 Again & Again (Market Place, Thonglor Soi 4, 089-486-5359) for something a little more feminine. Unlike other raggedlooking vintage stores, this It-shop hooks its customers up with glittery dresses, shirts and a selection of highquality skirts and pants. Crate-diggers should drop by 8 Zud Rang Ma Records (7/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 088-8911314), one of the best record stores in

@4 Teppen Tucked behind Major Sukhumvit cinema, this wooden-floored pub is a favorite among Japanese expats looking for a taste of home. The warm lighting and sincere staff create a friendly, authentic vibe.

14/2 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02-714-1412.

Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Ekkamai

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EXPLORING

THONGLOR & EKKAMAI

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Tucked inside a narrow lane, this cool, intimate shop-house bar is favored by Bangkok’s local and expat hipsters. The ground floor features a small corner bar with retro touches like old movie posters, vintage bench seating and flowery tiles. Head there early to ensure a table if you’re too self-conscious to stand around outside (where most of the crowd congregates) and be sure to check out the upstairs gallery.

7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. BTS Thong Lo. www.wtfbangkok.com

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@0 A.R Sutton Engineers Siam (G/F, Park Lane Ekkamai) might be tiny, but it’s one of the coolest cocktail lounges in town: a colonial-inspired bolthole that does a good job deceiving you into thinking it’s always been in its tucked away location. Across from it, @1 Hot Rod (02-714-7525), is as much a bar as a great spot to nibble on authentic Thai food.

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!0 Bo.lan (Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-2602962) takes a traditional approach to Thai food with the occasional contemporary tweak in the presentation. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that regularly changes to reflect seasonal products. More laidback and with dishes closer to street food, !1 Soul Food Mahanakorn (56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 085-9042691) serves a brief menu of perfectly executed Thai regional dishes.

Don’t leave without trying its excellent, double-strength cocktails. Regional Thai cuisine specialists include !2 Supanniga Eating Room (160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7508), where the mix of Eastern Seaboard and Isaan food makes for arguably the best Thai restaurant in Bangkok, and !3 Phuket Town (160/8 Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402), with its classic Southern dishes. For the best Thai dessert around, don’t miss the mango and sticky rice at !4 Maewaree (1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-392-4804)—ours and many others’ absolute favorite. For Western food, head to !5 4 Garcons (1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor

Well-to-do young executives rub shoulders with hotel guests on the rooftop of !7 Octave (45/F, Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000), which features 360-degree views around a circular bar. The craft-beer stronghold !8 Mikkeller (26 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-381-9891) attracts a more laidback crowd, and is set in in a charming mid-century house. Meanwhile , !9 Iron Fairies (404 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-8875) boasts a Dickensian factory-theme, with crumbling brick walls and a scarttering of ancient industrial machinery. Not all the area’s nightlife is geared at the party crowd.

38

ROAST

NIGHTLIFE

Sukhumvit

You are in Bangkokians’ food heartland, from street eats to high-end Thai to European fine dining. 9 Roast (2/F, Seenspace, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-1852865) combines artisanal coffee-making with a brunch menu that covers dishes such as crab cake Benedict and corned beef hash. For a finer option,

Sukhumvit 53

DINING

Soi 13) for some classic French fare.

Alternatively, ignore all the fancy bars and restaurants and head to !6 Sabaijai Kebtawan (65 Sukhumvit Soi 63), where a feast of Thai seafood can quickly turn into a Leo beer-fueled karaoke session with friendly locals.

Sukhumvit 51

town, stocking an eclectic collection of vintage Thai funk and global sounds.

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EXPLORING

OLD TOWN Y SPOTLIGHT

Tha Maharaj

NATIONAL MUSEUM The charming front hall of the National Museum has recently undergone a stunning renovation to showcase the museum’s most beautiful Buddhist treasures in a single room. Formerly the viceroy’s palace, the front hall itself is highlighted by a monumental Buddha head from the Ayutthaya period that overlooks the whole exhibition space, while a stunningly graceful bronze Bodhisattva from the Srivijaya period takes center stage amid Khmer and Hindu sculptures. You’ll also find carefully-kept smaller pieces ranging from Buddhist art to delicate Rattanakosin-era puppets.

This themed community mall looks to recapture the charm of the Old Town’s architecture. The riverside pavilion consists of over 50 open-air restaurants and shops spread over seven buildings styled in keeping with the area’s historic roots. There’s also a riverside promenade and community garden. As well as shops dedicated to fashion and beauty, you’ll also find specialists dealing in antiques and Thai amulets.

!6 11/1 Maharaj Rd., 02-866-3163-4, 090-926-5265. Open daily 10am-10pm

2 4 Na Phrathat Rd., 02-224-1333. Open Wed-Sun and national holidays 9am-4pm

T

AFTERNOON

he Rattanakosin area, commonly called the Old Town, is tucked inside a bend in the Chao Phraya River and encompasses some of the city’s most revered cultural landmarks. But beyond the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, there are also some excellent restaurants and beautiful riverside bars.

MORNING Start your walking tour from Prachan Pier (Tha Prachan in Thai) with a visit to 1 Tha Prachan and Amulet Market (open daily 7am-5pm), where ancient Buddha images, amulets and talismans are displayed along the footpath and in small lanes. Local advice is recommended if you plan on taking home any good-luck souvenirs. Nearby, you’ll find the historic 2 National Museum (4 Na Phra Tha Rd., 02-224-1333), which houses some of the most impressive art and antiques in the country. In addition to historic pieces from the Dvaravati Srivijaya to Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods, the museum features regional art like Indian Gandhara, Chinese weapons, ancient ceramics and musical instruments. At the other end of Sanam Luang is the most-visited landmark in Thailand, 3 Grand Palace and Wat

Phra Kaew (open daily 8:30am-4:30pm.

Entry B350). Construction on the royal residence of the first king of the current Chakri Dynasty began in 1762, and the complex is split into three zones: the Outer Court, where you’ll find Wat Phra Kaew and the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred Buddha image; the Middle Court, which contains the Dusit Maha Prasat and Chakri Maha Prasat buildings; and the Inner Court, former

GRAND PALACE AND WAT PHRA KAEW

QUEEN SIRIKIT MUSEUM OF TEXTILES

residence of the royal consorts. Be sure to get there early before the day is too hot. Beware, touts will tell you the palace is closed for a national holiday.

Ignore them! On the same grounds, you’ll also find the 4 Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles (Na Phra Lan Rd., Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, 02255-9430), which tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand.

Highlights include the queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading international designers.

Behind the Grand Palace, on the bank of the Chao Phraya River, is the twoyear-old 5 Nagaraphirom Park.

What was once a row of shop-houses and several other old buildings is now a breathable green space with views of the Grand Palace. Relax among trees and lotus ponds and enjoy a great view of the Temple of Dawn before you continue on your walk. Next, pay your respects to the 43-meterlong reclining Buddha at 6 Wat Pho (open daily 8am-5pm), whose threemeter-tall feet are inlaid with mother of pearl displaying 108 Buddhist

WAT PHO

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EXPLORING

OLD TOWN symbols. In a beautiful colonial-style building nearby, 7 Museum Siam (4 Sanam Chai Rd., 02-225-2777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm) is one of Bangkok’s best museums, portraying the history of Thai communities through multimedia installations and interactive exhibitions. The venue also hosts an interesting lineup of rotating exhibitions.

PHRA ATHIT HOTSPOTS Some of the Old Town’s best venues line this charming riverside road.

!3 Escapade The specialty here is Angus beef burgers that regularly rank among Bangkok’s best. Double your intake with a Quarter Cow (two beef patties, two slices of cheddar cheese with truffle sauce) and be sure to try the decadent smoothie cocktails.

SHEEPSHANK

112 Phra Athit Rd., 081-406-3773. Open Tue-Sun noon-midnight

!4 Sheepshank This restaurant is designed to resemble a sophisticated boat house where you can sit back and enjoy views of the river and Rama 8 Bridge while eating Spanish dishes like seafood paella with saffron (see page 7 for more information).

47 Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-5165. Tue-Thu 5:30pm-midnight; Fri-Sun 5:30pm-1am. www.sheepshankpublichouse.com MUSEUM SIAM

!5 Pipit Banglamphu

EVENING

Thanks to the efforts of the Banglamphu community, plans to demolish Bangkok’s first printing school, which dates back to 1924, were derailed, and the building last year reopened as the Pipit Banglamphu Museum. Registered as a place of national importance by the Fine Art Department of Thailand, the museum focuses on the culture of Bangkok’s Rattanakosin Island area, as well as the printing school’s history.

Next to Phra Sumen Fort, Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-1850. Entry B100. Closed Mondays. www.fb.com/pipitbanglamphu

ESCAPADE

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After exploring Thailand’s heritage, take a break at 8 Sala Rattanakosin (39 Soi Ta Tien, Maharaj Rd., 02-6221388) and enjoy Thai food with great views of the 9 Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun). This stylish riverside venue boasts a small number of guestrooms but half of the building is dedicated to wining and dining. There’s also a rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping cocktails. If you’re in the mood for more drinks, head to !0 The Deck (Arun Residence, 36-38 Maharaj Rd. 02-221-9158), a charming outdoor venue just a short walk from Sala Rattanakosin. Set in a five-room boutique hotel, The Deck offers a delightful atmosphere in which to enjoy another drink or two, and also has a sophisticated Thai food menu. Finish your Old Town tour with a night visit to !1 Pak Klong Talad (open 24 hours), Bangkok’s largest flower market. Flowers from not only Thailand but around the world arrive here each day to be

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distributed to hotels, restaurants and small retailers. You’ll find everything from local jasmine to imported red roses. Fresh batches arrive after midnight, which is when you’ll get to experience the busiest trading atmosphere. If you’ve still got some energy left, go mingle with backpackers from all over the world on the notorious !2 Khao San Road. Our top addresses there: Bombay Blues, Hippie de Bar and Fabulous Bar & Dessert Cafe.

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Prachan and Amulet Market 2 National Museum 3 Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew 4 Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles 5 Nagaraphirom Park 6 Wat Pho 7 Museum Siam 8 Sala Rattanakosin 9 Wat Arun !0 The Deck !1 Pak Klong Talad !2 Khao San Road !3 Escapade !4 Sheepshank !5 Pipit Banglamphu !6 Tha Maharaj

GETTING THERE

It’s not easy to get to the Old Town as there is no the sky train or MRT coverage, and a car journey can take up to an hour due to heavy traffic.

The most convenient route is perhaps to take the sky train to BTS Saphan Taksin and catch a boat from Sathorn Pier to Pra Athit Pier.

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GUIDE

DINING

Y

SEED

NEW

The vibe may be rustic and casual, but the French-inspired Western dishes coming out of the kitchen still carry the mark of one of Bangkok’s best-known fine-dining chefs, Singaporean national Haikal Johari.

Also expect to spot some Asian influences in dishes like foie gras terrine served with coconut, pineapple chutney and toasted sourdough, and duck confit with carrot ginger puree, cabbage, caramelized ginger and orange juice.

Sukhumvit Soi 39, 099-283-6363. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight

Hot Spots THAI SEAFOOD FAVORITES

1

SOMBOON SEAFOOD

This hugely-successful, long-standing seafood chain dating back to 1969 has one of the most loyal followings in town and abroad—former Japanese PM Junichiro Koizumi even ate there. This new shopping mall branch makes it even easier to visitors to seek out their succulently-rich puu pad pong gari (yellow curry crab), goong ob woonsen (prawns baked with glass noodles) and steamed whole seabass with soy sauce. Be sure to call ahead for reservations, as the busy restaurant typically carries a 20-minute wait time otherwise.

5/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605965. Open daily 11am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

KODANG TALAY SEAFOOD

Pad Thai Thip Samai This renowned one-dish specialist whips up some of the best pad Thai in town and is of course, always busy so expect to wait for a table during prime dinner hours. Try the to-die-for pad Thai hor khai goong (shrimp pad Thai wrapped in a thin egg crepe), washed down with a freshlysqueezed orange juice sold out front. Prices may be higher than your average shop-house eatery, but keep in mind your pad Thai will come with a generous serving of plump shrimps.

313-315 Maha Chai Rd., 02-221-6280. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight

2

KODANG TALAY SEAFOOD

HIROTOMO T

Y SPOTLIGHT

SOMBOON SEAFOOD

3

T&K SEAFOOD

This street-side Chinatown seafood joint whips up reasonably priced and reliably fresh dishes to an always-busy crowd. Expect a 20-30-minute wait if you arrive during prime dinner hours, when hungry locals and in-the-know tourists congregate in equal measure. The menu spans seafood of all sorts. Be sure to order the grilled prawns with spicy dipping sauce, tom yum goong (hot and sour soup with shrimp) and steamed fish in lime sauce.

49-51 Soi Phadungdao Yaowarat Rd., 02-223-4519.

Open Mon-Sat 4:30pm-2am

Set in a renovated warehouse with nautical-meets-modern-industrial decor (think heavy wooden tables and ropes hanging from the ceiling), this laid-back seafood restaurant boasts a massive outdoor seating area right by the river. Although locals tend to order the deep-fried seabass and garoupa, the restaurant also makes hard-to-find dishes such as the Southern-style gaeng som kai pla dook talay (sour and spicy soup with sea catfish eggs)—perfect with an ice-cold beer.

Room Warehouse 7, Asiatique the Riverfront, 2194 Charoenkrung Soi 76, 092-2845610. Open daily 5pm-midnight. Free ferry from Saphan Taksin Pier, BTS Saphan Taksin

T&K SEAFOOD

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Y

TASTE OF THE CITY

DINING HONG KONG Recent Openings

STOREHOUSE DINING

A home-style, chef’s table restaurant featuring international fusion flavors.

2725/1-3 Rama 4 Rd., 086-384-3400

ARNO’S

A charming rustic butcher-slash-restaurant specializing in dry-aged meat.

2080/2 Narathiwas Soi 20, 02-678-8340

CHAIRMAN BY CHEF MAN

This spin-off created by a high-end dim sum restaurant highlights fuss-free Chinese dishes.

2/F, Emquartier, Sukhumvit Soi 35, 02-2610426

Advertise your business with us ­ starting from B5,000

RYCE

This Japanese restaurant specializes in inventive onigiri rice balls.

46 Chulalongkorn Soi 42, 087-092-7297

Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Credit card payment accepted.

24 W H E R E T H A I LAND I DECEMBER 2 0 1 1 I www.wheretraveler.com

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GUIDE

DINING WORLD-RENOWED BANGKOK RESTAURANTS

4

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SAMYAN SEAFOOD

Set in a colonial-inspired building, the round tables inside this longstanding Thai-Chinese seafood joint are always bustling with large parties sharing family-style dishes. Clanking silverware, happy conversations and a few loud “cheers” provide the soundtrack to dinners of Chinese-inspired seafood. Try the pu song kradong (steamed double carapace crab), along with some non-seafood dishes such as the moo hun (grilled whole pork) and the yuea phai toon (steamed bamboo fibers in clear soup).

151-159 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-6782020. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5-10pm

EAT ME

LAEM CHAROEN SEAFOOD

5

LAEM CHAROEN SEAFOOD

This Eastern seafood chain has been a local favorite for over 30 years thanks to fresh fish and generous portions. Its atmosphere is straightforwardly industrial with a pop of green that isn’t too overpowering. Although the menu comes with a variety of choices, we reccommend that you stick with the simplest options such as grilled cockle in spicy dipping sauce, fried rice with crabmeat and deep-fried seabass in sweet and sour sauce.

4/F, Siam Paragon, 991/1, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-9244.

BTS Siam

GAGGAN

SAMYAN SEAFOOD

Eat Me Ranked as the 25th of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, Chef Tim Butler’s kitchen pulls off bold combinations like Alaskan scallops with avocado, yuzu and pancetta, while a simple chicken salad is elevated to new heights by the addition of red papaya, toasted coconut and betel leaf.

The decor is a cool, yet cozy, melange of modernist and natural, with rotating exhibitions by local artists. The service is diligent and sweet, and the cocktails are perfection.

1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. Open daily 3pm-1am. BTS Sala Daeng

Gaggan After building a solid foundation in Indian and Italian cooking at hotel restaurants, Gaggan Anand did a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, the former modern-gastro capital of the world. His eponymous restaurant serving molecular Indian cooking ranked No. 1 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2015. Expect the unexpected like foams, spherification, dehydration and more alongside traditional dishes of Indian curry.

68/1 Lang Suan Rd., 02-652-1700. Open daily 6pmmidnight. BTS Ratchadamri

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Borrowing the same concepts from all L’Atelier branches, this elegant red and black space has diners seated around a large open kitchen, a format more remniscent of a sushi bar than classic dining a la Francaise. The food remains unmistakebly French, though—with dishes like free range quail stuffed with foie gras and potato purée—and with all the finesse you’d expect from Joel Robuchon, the chef with the most Michelin stars in the world.

5/F, Mahanakorn Cube, 96 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0698. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:3010:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

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NIGHTLIFE TEENS OF THAILAND NEW

Hiding behind an ominous, Indian-style door is a small, moody bar belonging to a who’s-who of Bangkok’s art and nightlife scene, from fashion photographers and party organizers to mixologists and musicians. The real highlight is the vast collection of gin, from the must-try Hanami (the house pour) to the locally distilled Iron Balls.

The decor is basic, mixing old shop-house charm with racy photography exhibitions.

76 Soi Nana, Charoen Krung Rd., 081-443-3784.

Open Tue-Sun 6pm-12:30am. MRT Hua Lamphong

Hot Spots BEST ALFRESCO BARS

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MOOSE

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MOOSE BANGKOK

The team behind some of Bangkok’s favorite indie clubs run this retro-chic barmeets-restaurant that used to be a vintage furniture shop. A glass wall now separates the old space from a sizeable outdoor terrace filled with rickety tables and industrial light fixtures. The soundtrack focuses on Britpop, ‘60s-80s rock and some electro-pop, while the bar pours potent but sweet cocktails (drop by for happy hour from 5-8pm). Note that the Thai food is known for being super-fiery.

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24 Ekkamai Soi 21, 02-108-9550. Open daily 5pm-1am

SCARLETT WINE BAR & RESTAURANT

This elegant wine bistro surrounded by glass on the 47th floor of the Pullman Hotel G offers sweeping views of lower Silom and the river. The food starts at very affordable pasta dishes before you get to the signature offerings created in consultation with chef Manuel Martinez of the two-Michelin-star Le Relais Louis XII, in Paris. Order a bold cabernet sauvignon, enjoy the view, and spoil yourself with some really well-executed bistro food.

37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 02-2381991, 089-108-8744. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Chong Nonsi

RED SKY

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RED SKY

The 55th floor view from Centara’s rooftop puts this bar in the same league as high flyers like Vertigo at the Banyan Tree. Al fresco dining and drinking takes place under a swooping, red-lit arch in a more relaxed environment than the adjoining Fifty Five restaurant. Chef Hugo Coudurier prepares a menu focused on high-quality French ingredients, best enjoyed with a drop from the hotel’s notably excellent wine cellar.

55/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-6255. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Chit Lom

Soulbar Tucked in a small shop-house not far from Chinatown, this simple but tastefully turned out bar plays host to live soul and funk bands every TueSat. The venue has been renovated in a simple loft-like style with a lot of empty space, putting the focus squarely on the live bands. Drop by for the daily happy hours (6-8pm)—our pick is the Summer Beer (mint chocolate kombucha and half a pint of draft beer).

945 Charoenkrung Rd., 095-521-1541. Open Tue-Sat 6pm-midnight

SCARLETT WINE BAR & RESRAURANT

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NIGHTLIFE ROOFTOP REVIVAL Views without the price tag

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VOGUE LOUNGE

This cocktail bar serves more than just expensive drinks by a highly regarded Japanese mixologist. They’ve also brought onboard a Michelin-star-winning chef, Vincent Thierry, formerly of Caprice in Hong Kong, to create a menu of incredibly elegant (and equally delicious) small plates such as wagyu sirloin with black truffle potato and bone marrow butter. The 1920s-inspired bar features a small indoor area dominated by plum leather, bronze and marble, while outside is a beautiful air-conditioned terrace.

6/F, Mahanakhon Cube, Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0697. BTS Chong Nonsi

Above Eleven

SMALLS

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SMALLS

This laidback, late-night bar is split over three rickety levels of an old corner townhouse where the owner’s prized collection of contemporary art matches with a hands-off approach to restoration. Book in advance if you want to nab a seat with a view on the rooftop terrace. Or head downstairs to knock back shots of absinthe (the house specialty) and mingle with a hard-drinking after-work crowd of expats and locals.

This bar and restaurant doesn’t just have great views of the city going for it; there’s also an adventurous menu of Japanese-Peruvian fusion (aka Nikkei) cuisine. Small plates like acebichado rolls (seabass, ika karage, avocado) and skewers of anticucho beef heart are bettered only by their signature cocktails. Note that if you’re sitting at the bar you’ll have your back to the skyline, so its worth booking a table in advance.

186/3 Suanphlu Soi 1, 095-585-1398. Open WedSun 7pm-2am; Mon 7pm-2am

33/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111. Open daily 6pm-2am. BTS Nana VOGUE LOUNGE

Roof 409 Bar & Bistro New York subway tiles, metal cafe chairs and a DJ booth pumping out house tunes make for an urban rooftop vibe. The fourth-floor views can’t compete with the most famous hotel high flyers, but the menu of fuss-free and highly affordable comfort food makes up for that.

4/F, Mercury Ville, 504 Phloen Chit Rd., 081-9956984. Open daily 11am-midnight. BTS Chit Lom

The Speakeasy The two-story space sports prohibition-era ßdecorand a balcony on the 24th floor that takes in 180-degree views of Bangkok’s business district.

Try classic cocktails that really pack a punch, like the Sazerac 1838, which combines Jack Daniels, absinthe and bitters.

24-25/F, Hotel Muse Bangkok Langsuan, 55/555 Lang Suan, 02-630-4000. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Ratchadamri

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ART

BANGKOK CITY CITY GALLERY NEW

This massive, purpose-built white cube right

by Lumpini Park facilitates all forms of art, whether it’s paintings, video installations or live performances. Its opening exhibition, for which it set up a maze of tunnels to display works by celebrated local cartoonist Wisut Ponnimit, was an instant smash. The owners are young and rooted in Bangkok’s art, skateboard and design subcultures, ensuring a cool if sometimes clique-y crowd.

13/3 Sathorn Soi 1, 083-087-2725. Open daily 2pm-8pm. MRT Lumphini

Hot Spots TOP EXHIBITIONS THIS MONTH

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DISPARITY EXHIBITION

Samut Prakarn artist Jirapat Tatsanasomboon combines classical Thai mythology with contemporary cultural references in a style dubbed “Ramakien Pop.” His politics-referencing work has seen him listed on Thames & Hudson’s “100 Painters of Tomorrow” list.

THE LAND

Japanese printmaker Kansuke Morioka makes silkscreen prints of Japan’s World Heritage Sites that have been exhibited worldwide.

Her latest series is now on show at Bangkok’s Ardel Gallery, an out-of-town art compound curated by one of the country’s top art academics.

Through Nov 22. Room 433, 4/F, JTC Jewelry Trade Center, 919/1 Silom Rd. 02-266-5454

Through Nov 29. Ardel Gallery, 99/45 Borrommarachonnanee Rd., 02-422-2092. Open Tue-Sat 10:30am-7pm; Sun 10:30am-5:30pm

BLAME IT ON THE WEATHER

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BLAME IT ON THE WEATHER

Painter Kade Javanalikhikara, whose work is closely related to environmental issues affecting Chiang Mai, presents his latest series of abstract paintings.

UNCONDITIONED DISCUSSION

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UNCONDITIONED DISCUSSION

If you’re heading over to Chatuchak weekend market then also make time to check out this new exhibition of Theraveda Buddhisminspired work by painter Vichaya Mukdamanee taking place at the neighboring Suan Rod Fai park.

For more details visit www.bia.or.th.

Through Nov 22. Suan Rod Fai, Khampaeng Phet 3 Rd., 02-537-9221. Open daily 9am-10pm. BTS Mo Chit

Through Dec 4. 7/F, Office of Academic Resources, Chulalongkorn University, 254 Phayathai Rd., 02215-0871. Open Mon-Fri 9am-7pm; Sat 9am-4pm.

BTS Siam

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INSTITUTE OF INTIMATE MUSEUMS

Japanese artist Kenji Sugiyama, known for his clever spin-offs of traditional diorama art, presents his miniature museums hidden in seemingly normal objects such as pasta boxes, with amazing attention to detail.

Through Nov 25. La Lanta Fine Art, 254/14 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-204-0583. Open Tue-Sat, 10am-7pm. BTS Phrom Phong

100 Tonson Gallery

One of the foremost contemporary art galleries in Bangkok, 100 Tonson regularly welcomes such high profile artists as Rirkrit Tiravanija. The gallery’s greatest pride is its ability to take Thai artists abroad, and it was the first Thai gallery to be present at Art Basel, in Switzerland. Located in a beautiful modern building down a leafy soi, 100 Tonson was designed by renowned French designer Christian Liaigre.

100 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-684-1527. BTS Ratchadamri. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm.

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SHOPPING NEW

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Cult brands and the very best local designers take center-stage in this ultra-chic new multi-label store. Its specialty is women’s clothing—from sporty looks and monochrome workwear to glamorous party styles—but guys will find some cool accessories too. Local labels to look out for include Pin & Tux, Ensemble, Anaman and Coralist swimwear. The store is also home to a health-conscious cafe serving coffee, cold-pressed juices and a variety of fruit and granola bowls.

Thonglor Soi 11, 02-003-6973. Open Sun-Thu 11am-10pm; Fri-Sat 11am-midnight

Hot Spots

BEST THAI WOMENSWEAR

3

MILIN

The self-titled womenswear brand of society girl Milin Yuvacharuskul has been known since 2009 for its ultra-sexy designs that are now imitated by dozens of other Bangkok brands.

Her style sticks to glamorous but revealing pieces with a party sensibility.

3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1134. Open daily 10am-9pm. BTS Siam

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VICKTEERUT

Founded by designer Teerut “Vick” Wongwatanasin, Vickteerut is a minimal-yet-elegant womenswear label and one of the fastest-rising names on the Thai fashion scene.

The brand has a strong signature style to each collection, with a pared-back color palette that varies from grays to earth tones. Cutting is simple but full of subtle details.

112 Thonglor Soi 4, 02-782-8179. Open daily 10am8pm. BTS Thong Lo

GREYHOUND

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GREYHOUND

The brand started out with menswear during the 1980s before launching its women’s line some 10 years later. Under head designer Bhanu Inkawat, it’s become known for modern, minimal wear that blends the line between formal and casual. Both the men’s and women’s collections have a playful streak, with irregular patterns and unique prints that dare to be bold.

3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-252-3861. Siam.

Open daily 10am-9pm. BTS Siam

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SRETSIS

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SRETSIS

Playful daily wear best known for its girly prints and pastel colors, even in boyish pieces like shorts, pants and jumpsuits. Many of their collections mix in ‘60s-70s influences, making it a top pick for Bangkok’s vintage lovers. The brand was founded in 2001 by Thai designer Mollika Ruangkritya.

This collaboration between the three Sukhahuta sisters (the brand name is sisters spelled backwards) started back in 2002.

Today, it’s one of the country’s leading brands, best known for designs with an adventurous, bohemian and sweet edge. Every piece from Sretsis has a dreamy quality—think printed maxi dresses in safari color—but some street fashion adaptations can also be expected.

3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1729. Open daily 10am-9pm. BTS Siam

2/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605874. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit

KLOSET

EMQUARTIER This shopping mall combines a development of premium offices, luxury residences and entertainment facilities. Expect to find high-end boutiques including flagship stores from MCM, Jimmy Choo, Valentino, Sephora and A Bating Ape, plus cult Asian brands Stylenanda (Korea) and Beams (Japan). The striking development features the tallest man-made waterfall in Southeast Asia, at 40 meters high, as well as vast open green spaces scattered across its multiple stories.

651 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. Open daily 10am-10pm.

BTS Phrom Phong

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HEALTH + WELLNESS NEW

JATOMI FITNESS

Want to work off all that pad Thai and sticky rice? This branch of the global fitness chain welcomes out-of-town drop-ins and promises no-nonsense fitness classes whatever your goals: Fit Girls for cardio, Pure Pump for muscle work and endurance, Burn It for advanced athletes. You’ll also find your typical fitness classes like spinning, yoga, Pilates and bootcamp. No membership or call-aheads necessary; just purchase a single day-pass (B1,000) for unlimited class access.

4/F, Supercenter Big C, Ratchadamri Rd. Open daily 6:30am-10:30pm. BTS Chit Lom

Hot Spots UNIQUE SPA EXPERIENCES

1

5

AKA FOREVER YOUNG

At this holistic spa, layers and layers of imported Himalayan salt line an artificial cave in which guests come to be treated for common city sicknesses like asthma, allergies and insomnia. Spend an hour on one of their lounge chairs inside the dimly-lit, temperature-controlled cave while the salt (which has been scientifically proven to remove dust, pollen and other contaminants from your lungs) naturally cleans out your respiratory system.

Silom Village, 39/10-15 Sukhumvit Soi 31 , 02-2592288. Open Tue-Fri 10:30am-7:30pm, Sat-Sun 10:30am-7pm

KASHIKIRI SODA ONSEN

Located a little bit out of the city center, this Japanese-style spa offers private onsen tubs and a full line of spa treatments, from traditional Thai massage to body scrubs, manicure and pedicure. It’s designed to look like a traditional onsen house, with all the equipment and onsen salt imported from Japan.

They just opened a branch on Sukhumvit Soi 49, too.

12 Wachirathamsathit Soi 32, 081-857-6424. Open daily 11am-11pm

KASHIKIRI SODA ONSEN

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CHILLAX SPA

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This spa looks to soothe the aches and pains of partygoers. The decor is cozy and minimal, with touches of wood. Apart from the usual Thai and aroma massages and body scrubs, the real highlight treatments are those aimed at rejuvenating you after a night of partying, like the Hangover Retreat (head massage and special drink) and The Micro Nap. The spa also features a bar—yep, you heard it right—serving wine, cocktails and whiskey.

THETA STATE FLOAT CENTER

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THETA STATE FLOAT CENTER

Theta refers to a state of mind where brain activity slows almost to the point of sleep; a trance-like state typified by heightened receptivity and creative inspiration. At this spa you’ll find two futuristic float pods and two float rooms that promise to achieve exactly this. Both types of chamber are soundproof and lightproof, filled with around 25 centimeters of dense, skin-temperature Epsom saltwater, which allows you to float effortlessly on the surface (just like the Dead Sea), removing all body pressure points in the process.

24th Ave. Mall, 88/1 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-2617943. Open Tue-Sun 10am-10pm

12/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-258-5018. Open daily 10:30am-midnight. BTS Phrom Phong

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I.SAWAN RESIDENTIAL SPA & CLUB

When celebrated Taiwanese designer Tony Chi created this club-style hotel spa, he made one of Bangkok’s most beautiful wellness retreats.

The indoor-outdoor setting feels more like a jungle resort than a city spa. Its 7,000 sq-meter space features six residential spa cottages, nine treatment bungalows, a hair salon and a nail bar—not to mention a modern fitness center, squash and tennis courts plus a 25-meter pool.

5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am-11pm. BTS Chit Lom

Rarinjinda Wellness Spa Got a long day of shopping planned at Phloen Chit’s malls? Make time to put your feet up at this comfortingly classic Asian spa. The traditional decor belies treatments which utilize the most modern spa technologies. Packages can last anything from 1-4 hours, and encompass wellness practices glossed from across the continent, from Siamese herbal steams to Tibetan sound therapy.

30/F, Grande Centre Point, 100 Wireless Rd. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 9am-10pm

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ATTRACTIONS

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BLUE ELEPHANT COOKING SCHOOL Held on the second floor of the restaurant’s stunning colonial-style mansion, Blue Elephant’s cooking classes specialize in Royal Thai cuisine for all levels, and are held by the world-renowned restaurant group’s founder, Nooror Somany Steppe, and her daughter Sandra. The instructors also guide you on replacement ingredients for food items that are hard to find outside Thailand. Classes begin with a visit to the fresh market and end with a spread of your creations in a private dining room. Reserve in advance as it gets full quickly. There are two classes each day: 8:45am-1pm and 1-3pm.

233 Sathorn Rd, 02-673-9353. Open daily 8am-5pm.

BTS Surasak

Hot Spots BEST BANGKOK DAY-TRIPS

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KOH KRET

With no cars and most walkways unpaved, this island just 20 minutes upriver from downtown Bangkok feels like another world. Cut off from the rest of the city by the Chao Phraya River, its inhabitants are mostly Mon immigrants who retain their culture of producing beautiful handmade ceramic-ware. Don’t miss the Mon-influenced snacks while your there, either.

Nonthaburi, Pak Kret. Take a direct ferry with the green flag from Saphan Taksin pier that runs every 20 minutes. BTS Saphan Taksin

2

FLIGHT OF THE GIBBON

This zip-line tour operator gives nature-loving risk takers amazing views of Thailand’s forests and an adrenaline rush at the same time. The zip-line company tour in Pattaya’s Chonburi jungle features three kilometers of wires suspended above the forest canopy, the longest of which is over 300 meters.

For tourists staying in Bangkok, the company also offers day packages including nine-person shuttle bus to and from the city. Ten percent of profits also go towards primate rehabilitation, reforestation projects and ecological education programs.

29/4 Chang Kachasarn Rd., Chang Klan, 053-010660. www.treetopasia.com

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BANG KRACHAO

Also known as Bangkok’s green lung, this 3,089 sq-kilometer stretch of greenery offers a glimpse of the city sans big buildings, mass traffic and giant crowds. Step off the boat and onto what feels like a tropical island miles away from the big city with all its lights and pollution. Rent a bike for almost nothing and cycle the pathways that wind into the wet, untouched jungle. Getting there means a 10-15-minute ferry from either the Bang Na (BTS Bang Na) and Khlong Toey (MRT Khlong Toey) ports.

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Prapadaeng District. Take a direct ferry from either the Bang Na or Klong Toey ports

4

MUANG BORAN

Also known as Ancient City, this massive outdoor museum offers its visitors a onestop excursion through all of Thailand’s historic monuments in scaled format, from majestic Lanna temples to golden royal palaces. More than just a Disneyfied version of Thailand’s heritage, Muang Boran sculpted each of its exhibits in consultation with the National Museum to ensure historical and geographical accuracy. Don’t miss Sukhothai Wiharn, Chiang Mai’s sevenspired pagoda and the Tiger King’s place in Petchaburi.

296/1 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-323-4094. Open daily 9am5pm

5

BANG SAEN

When Bangkokians want to eat the very best local seafood, they head out of town to this quiet beach getaway just an hour from the city.

Here, you’ll have your pick of open-air beachfront diners selling fresh seafood delicacies in huge portions.

It’s a full-day trip (speak to your concierge about arranging a taxi), but you won’t find a better pla nueng manao (boiled fish in chili lime sauce), talay pad pong kari (stir-fried seafood in yellow curry) or puu nueng (boiled crabs with spicy sauce).

Sea Life Tucked in the basement of Siam Paragon, Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium is home to over 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. The aquarium also offers family-friendly interactive activities such as diving with the sharks, 5D cinema experiences, creature feeding, back-of-house visits and even real ocean walks in wetsuits. Be sure to check activity times prior to your visit. We also recommend making advanced reservations, as there are limited spots for each activity per day.

B1-B2/F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-6872000. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Siam

FLIGHT OF THE GIBBON

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NAVIGATE

Phahon Yothin ¾ËÅâ¸Թ

Lat Phrao ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

Chatuchak Park Êǹ¨µØ¨Ñ¡Ã

Chao Phraya River áÁ‹¹้Ó਌ҾÃÐÂÒ

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MRT

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On Nut ͋͹¹Øª

FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

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Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service.

Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price.

There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS­ Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines.

Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130.

The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40.

There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak.

Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS­ While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 NOVEMBER 2015 I W HERE THA ILA N D 33

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

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!5 1 Learning how to make authentic Thai dishes with one of the country’s top chefs at Blue Elephant Cooking School and Restaurant. See page 31.

!8 7 Hanging out with the city’s coolest locals and expats at Smalls, a laidback cocktail lounge set in a corner shop-house. See page 26.

!0

@1

!3 Winding down in a private onsen !8 Starting the day at the charming tub at Kashikiri Soda Onsen, one of Bangkok’s most popular onsen spas.

See page 30.

Damnoen Saduak, Thailand’s biggest floating market. See page 8.

!9 Sipping a potent cocktail on the 2 Grabbing a beer and shopping for 8 Partying by the river at the indus- !4 Trying on cutting-edge, locally stunning mezzanine of Sing Sing, vintage bargains at the new Rod Fai Night Market. See page 7.

trial, pirate-chic Viva & Aviv bar and restaurant. See page 8.

designed clothing at the city’s newest luxury mall, Emquartier. See page 29.

3 Spending an evening at Asiatique, the giant riverside development filled with shops, restaurants, bars and cultural performances. See page 21.

9 Floating mindlessly in a pod of Epsom salt water at Theta Float Center. See page 30.

!5 Chowing down on the legendary @0 Drinking a Mahanakhon Julep on

!0 Exploring the beautiful grounds 4 Looking down at the city view with of the Grand Palace, a magnificent a cocktail in hand at Above Eleven, a rooftop bar located in one of Bangkok’s nightlife hubs. See page 27.

ancient landmark housing the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred Buddha image. See page 20.

5 Cycling around Bang Krachao, also known as the Bangkok Jungle, a huge area of undeveloped forest on the fringe of the city. See page 31.

!1 Making an appointment to visit

6 Tucking into a hearty plate of crab yellow curry at Somboon Seafood.

See page 23.

!2 Admiring the fresh flowers at Pak

Yenakart Villa, a newly-opened multipurpose art space in the Sathorn area.

See page 28.

pad Thai hor khai goong (shrimp pad Thai wrapped in a thin egg crepe) at the longstanding Pad Thai Thip Samai. (See page 23).

a newly-opened 1930s Shanghaithemed bar. See page 22.

the terrace of Vogue Lounge, and enjoying the outdoor air-con at this ritzy rooftop bar. See page 27.

@1 Admiring the stunning pieces of !6 Sampling the delicacies on the Buddhist art displayed in the National degustation menu at Gaggan, a restaurant specializing in gastronomic progressive Indian dishes.

See page 24.

Museum’s newly-renovated front hall.

See page 20.

!7 Stocking up on elegant silks, scarves and neckties at Jim Thompson House, Thailand’s pioneering Thai silk brand. See page 8.

Klong Talad, the largest flower market in Bangkok. See page 11.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

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Uber Black limousines

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TAT Tourist Information Counter at

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Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC)

VIE Hotel Bangkok

Blue Elephant Restaurant

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Devarana Spa

W Hotel Bangkok

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The Westin Grande Sukhumvit

Elemis Spa at The St. Regis Bangkok

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