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Whiskeria Spring 2022
Expert Tasting
Expert Tasting :
GlenDronach 50 Year Old Whiskeria’s Charlie Maclean delights in his tasting of the inaugural GlenDronach 50 Year Old, taking us to the taverns of Edinburgh along the way.
The GlenDronach 50 Year Old is the distillery’s first ever release at this milestone age. It was distilled in 1971 and matured onsite in Spanish oak ex-Oloroso sherry and Pedro Ximenez casks, selected and vatted together by Master Blender, Dr. Rachel Barrie. Bottle No. 1 of this amazing malt achieved £40,000 at the ‘One of One’ charity auction organised by the Worshipful Company of Distillers in December. The successful bidder (plus a guest) were also entitled to a private ‘behind the scenes’ distillery tour and tasting with Dr. Barrie; including dinner in the former managers’ residence, Glen House (built in 1771) overlooking the distillery, 4-star accommodation nearby, and travel to and from the distillery via Aberdeen airport. Rachel Barrie describes her creation as: “Rich and seductive with mellow layers of alluring complexity. On the nose, ripe dark cherry and plum are the prelude to a harmony of rolling stone fruit, gentian and a plume of smouldering tobacco, lifted by lilting notes of orange, bramble and cranberry. The palate brings an exquisite overture of flavour, with dense undertones of dark chocolate, tobacco and cocoa. A perfect counter comes in a crescendo of elegant plum and luxurious black cherry, enrobed in a swathe of velvet espresso.” My own tasting note is below, but it is
based on only a teaspoon of this rare spirit! Many now consider GlenDronach to be the benchmark ‘sherry-matured’ malt. The policy of filling into casks seasoned with Pedro Ximinez and Oloroso sherry was begun by the distillery’s former owner and master blender, Billy Walker, who also inherited a substantial stock of long aged sherried whisky with which to build the brand. He bought Glenronach in 2008, changed the brand name to GlenDronach, and sold the distillery to the American Brown-Forman Corporation in April 2016, along with its sister distilleries, BenRiach and Glenglassaugh. The distillery was founded in 1826 by a group of farmers led by James Allardice, who has been described as an “inventor, pioneer and entrepreneur; exuberant and extroverted.” The story goes that, soon after he commenced production, he travelled to Edinburgh with a small cask of his whisky with a view to taking cask orders from the city’s taverns and spirits merchants. Alas, nobody was interested. Returning to his lodging in the Canongate one evening he fell in with a couple of ‘ladies of the night’ and, over a few drams of “guid Glendronach,” explained his predicament. Impressed by the whisky and by his generosity, the ladies spread the word to their colleagues, who were not slow to join the merry tasting. Next day all the taverns on
the High Street were ringing with demands for Glendronach from this motley crew… and as Allardice recorded in his memoirs, “orders were swiftly forthcoming.” Another charming story about Mr Allardice, who was a tenant of the Duke of Gordon, recalls a dinner at Gordon Castle, at which he was over-effusive in his praise of the Duchess of Gordon’s piano playing. Reprimanded the following day, he replied: “Well, Your Grace, it was just the trash o’ Glenlivet you gave me after dinner [Glenlivet was also part of the Duke’s estate]. If it had been my own guid Glendronach, I would not have been ony the war.”
