Autumn Whiskeria 2021 by The Whisky Shop

Role model Renaissance woman Eunice Olumide MBE on her multifaceted career

EDITION

Autumn 2021 PRICE

£4.50

(where sold)

IN THIS ISSUE

New Releases: Single Cask Exclusives Industry Insider: The Dalmore A Time in History: London Calling The W Club: Kingsbarns

THE MAGAZINE OF

Distillery Visit: Brora Mixing It Up: Chivas Regal Expert Tasting: Glengoyne 50 Year Old The Last Word: Shaken and Stirred

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

YAMAZAKI DISTILLER’S RESERVE

YAMAZAKI 12 YEARS OLD

YAMAZAKI 18 YEARS OLD

YAMAZAKI 25 YEARS OLD

THE BIRTHPLACE OF JAPANESE WHISKY The Yamazaki Distillery is Japan’s first and oldest malt whisky distillery founded in 1923 by Suntory’s founder Shinjiro Torii. Yamazaki is not only the soul place of Suntory whisky but the birthplace of Japanese whisky. Inspired by traditional Scottish whisky, it is said that Torii selected the land of Yamazaki at the foot of Mt Tennozan, where the Katsura, Uji and Kizu rivers converge, because of the high quality of its natural environment. Nestled proudly on the periphery of Kyoto, the area around Yamazaki Distillery has long been referred to as “Minaseno”, famous for its exquisite natural water source and even mentioned in the Man’yoshu, the ancient anthology of Japanese poetry. Home to Sen no Rikyu, Master of “The Way of Tea” and his renowned “Rikyu no Mizu” (water of the imperial villa), the waters of Yamazaki are famously some of the best in Japan. Yamazaki is blessed with Japan’s rich four seasons, and the diversity of this region’s temperature and humidity creates ideal conditions for whisky making.

Yamazaki showcases Suntory’s innovation of Tsukuriwake - variety in production - which sees the use of different yeast strains, peat levels, still shapes and cask varieties to allow the creation of countless different ‘shades’ of Yamazaki whisky aromas that give blenders the chance to highlight each age at its finest. Yamazaki Distiller’s Reserve showcases the stunning creaminess and red fruits found in Bordeaux casks, whereas Yamazaki 12-Year Old balances the caramelised pineapple of American Oak with temple-incense and sultana from Mizunara and Spanish Oak casks. The older malts are rich and complex, with Yamazaki 18-Year Old emanating raisin and apricot with dark chocolate and the Yamazaki 25-Year Old proudly presenting infinitely complex fruit-cake aromas alongside the sandalwood and spice of ancient Mizunara. Each bottling is true to Japanese culture: subtle, complex and balanced, but blended to show each age statement at its most delicious.

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

As I See It

Great Scotch

With Scotland on the world stage later this autumn, The Whisky Shop’s Ian Bankier contemplates just what makes the nation’s spirit so special.

The big event in Glasgow this autumn is the COP26 Conference, just three months away at the time of writing. Happening in my home city, and the heart of The Whisky Shop, this is an enormous opportunity, not only to bring the world nations closer together on the green agenda, but to put Scotland once more on the world stage. This got me thinking about sales of Scotch, naturally. I am struck by the enormous variety of whiskies, spirits and other beverages that are on the market today. From small whisky stills in every part of the world to a myriad of gins to the latest innovation called ‘seltzers,’ the range is endless. But the one spirit that still stands out for me is Scotch. Harking back to the 20th century, when admittedly communications were, well, last century, there were all sorts of beverages and local drinks, but it was Scotch that became the global spirit of choice. It was special. There are a number of cogent explanations for this, one of which cites the sequence of Scotland’s access to foreign markets through its union with England, the prohibition years in America when Americans switched to smuggled Scotch and the Second World War when the American army travelled with everything it needed, including its favourite drink (by then), Scotch. But the simple explanation is that Scotch is truly special, it stands out. A colleague once pointed out to me that when you line up samples of Scotch alongside brandies, rums,

bourbons, vodkas, gins, tequilas, grappas and so on and invite an audience to taste, Scotch is very different. Granted, its flavour is pretty unique, but what really stands out is the length and complexity of its finish – its aftertaste. It is generally accepted that the reason for that pronounced aftertaste is the fact that Scotch is matured in oak barrels for at least three years. The oak wood of the barrel imparts flavour. Like the admiring tourist at an Oxford College asking the warden how the impeccable grass quadrangle was achieved, the answer given was “you start with 200 years,” Scotch can boast the same credentials. You need time. And the thing about time is that it consumes no energy. As I see it, time is the essence of clean energy. For those who want to pick a nit with me, I concede that power is used in the distillation process, and this is an aspect that in recent years the Scotch industry has addressed and made strides to clean up. And so, I encourage all visitors to Scotland, including participants of COP26, to visit The Whisky Shop and take a unique Scotch home and tell friends and family that it was made with time. Slàinte! Ian P Bankier Executive Chairman

❝

Harking back to the 20th century… it was Scotch that became the global spirit of choice. It was special.

Competition

Win!

A bottle of Chivas Regal Mizunara. Up for grabs in this edition is a bottle of Chivas Regal Mizunara, an elegant blended Scotch inspired by Master Blender Sandy Hyslop’s visit to Japan. Including whisky that has been aged in Japanese Mizunara oak casks, Chivas Mizunara is a perfect marriage of Scottish craft and Japanese tradition. The porous nature of Mizunara oak results in a greater influence of flavour from the cask, resulting in aromatic notes and a touch of spice, with a wisp of hazelnut in the whisky’s finish. Drink it neat or enjoy it in a highball. For your chance to win, simply visit: tws.cx/win Competition closes Monday 1st November 2021. T&Cs apply. Winners will be contacted directly.

Mixing It Up

THE MAGAZINE OF

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Glenkeir Whiskies Limited trades as THE WHISKY SHOP. Opinions expressed in WHISKERIA are not necessarily those of Glenkeir Whiskies Limited. Statements made and opinions expressed are done so in good faith, but shall not be relied upon by the reader. This publication is the copyright of the publisher, ASCOT PUBLISHING LIMITED, and no part of it may be reproduced without their prior consent in writing. No responsibility is taken for the advertising material contained herein. © ASCOT PUBLISHING LIMITED. Prices effective 9 August 2021. All prices in this edition of Whiskeria are subject to change.

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Contents

Contents: Autumn 2021 11 24 26 30 34 38 42 48 60 73 96 98

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Contributors

Contributors I L LUSTR AT I ON : F R A N C ES CA WA DDEL L

Charles MacLean —

Whiskeria’s resident whisky guru, Charlie has been researching and writing books on the water of life since 1981. Charlie’s bestsellers include award-winning World Whisky and Scotch Whisky: A Liquid History and his extensive knowledge on the subject led to him becoming the script advisor for Ken Loach’s 2012 film The Angels’ Share. In fact, Charlie’s whisky expertise was so hot that he landed himself a part in the film – a feat he claims to be his biggest career highlight to date! Each edition we ask Charlie to try what’s new on the shelves of The Whisky Shop, and we’re sure you’ll agree that his sensational tasting notes never disappoint.

Brian Wilson —

Formerly an MP, Brian held several posts during his political career, including Minister of Trade. Brian now lives on the Isle of Lewis where he pursues various business interests, notably in the energy sector. As the chairman of Harris Tweed Hebrides, Brian is credited with leading the regeneration of the Harris Tweed industry. Brian’s first love is writing, and in his spare time he continues to write books and opinion pieces for national newspapers – as well as delving into the fascinating history of whisky for each edition of Whiskeria.

Gavin D Smith —

One of the world’s most prolific and respected whisky writers, Gavin is regularly published in the top magazines within the whisky scene. He’s written and co-authored more than 20 books on the subject, including A-Z of Whisky, The Secret Still, and Goodness Nose. Gavin has the envy-inducing task of scoping out the whisky industry’s new and best-loved distilleries for Whiskeria readers, visiting a new distillery each edition. With his exquisite palate and whisky credentials, Gavin is undeniably the whisky lover for the job!

Distillery visit

New Releases

A Time in History

In memory of Scott Dunn Scott Dunn worked with The Whisky Shop for over 20 years. Tragically, he passed away at the age of 47 whilst working late in his store in Inverness. He was fit, healthy and dedicated to his wife, Mary, and son, Arran. But the powers that be decided that Scott would take his last breath in the place that he spent the best part of his working life. Scott was a family man, a successful manager, a passionate and knowledgeable whisky expert and a highly talented retailer. For two decades, Scott was the face of The Whisky Shop Inverness where he accumulated many customers and friends. He worked long days in the summer tourist months giving tastings to visitors from every part of the world. Some in his audiences would not have been accomplished in English, but Scott was nevertheless able to convey that this was good stuff and he was the man who knew all about it. He was completely natural in his enthusiasm for whisky. He knew how to harness this expertise and deliver it to his customers in a way that did not cause any discomfort or appear patronising. He made whisky a world open to all.

Scott was generous with his knowledge and skills, and he trained numerous staff members both in Inverness and across our estate. These colleagues all know who they are, and they appreciate and enjoy the benefits of the education he has given them. Since Scott’s passing we have received very many messages of condolence from customers. To honour his contribution to The Whisky Shop, a special commemorative single malt cask is being selected for bottling. The limited number of bottles will be offered first to members of The W Club at our Inverness store, many of whom were long-standing friends of Scott. In addition, we are proposing to establish an annual Scott Dunn Award which will be open to all employees of The Whisky Shop. The award, which will come in the shape of financial and practical help, will be for employees who propose to embark on any initiative that leads to personal development or education. Scott Dunn was everything described above, but most of all, Scott was a lovely person to know and work with and we all miss him dearly.

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

H I BI K I JA PA N E S E H A R MON Y I N S P I R E D BY N AT U R E . M A S T E R E D BY A RT I S A N S .

New Releases: Autumn 2021

Reviewed by Charles MacLean

Arran / Loch Lomond / Duncan Taylor Laphroaig / Golden Cask Caol Ila / Buffalo Trace / Smooth Ambler Old Scout / Platinum Old & Rare Clynelish / Platinum Old & Rare Dalmore / Platinum Old & Rare Glenturret / First Editions Macduff / Gordon & MacPhail Glenburgie / Benriach

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

New Releases

Arran 1996 #862 The Whisky Shop London Exclusive 70cl 25 Year Old Island Single Malt

47.8% VOL £230

Very deep amber with rubious lights. A rich and ‘juicy’ nose, drying, with some prickle. The top notes are of macerated dried fruits (including cherries, figs and crystalised angelica root), on a savoury base (saddle soap). A drop of water introduces a suggestion of dark chocolate. The taste is both sweet and savoury, with a warming finish and lingering chocolate orange.

Arran's Lochranza Distillery was founded in 1995 in the north of the island, overlooking the picturesque bay and ruined castle of the same name. It was the brainchild of Harold Currie, the former managing director of Chivas Brothers and later Campbell Distillers. There was a lot of speculation at the time about what character of spirit the distillery would produce. The isle of Arran has been described as ‘Scotland in miniature,’ with mountains in the north and rolling pastures in the south. Would the spirit be Lowland in style or display characteristics of its neighbours to the west, Campbeltown, or even Islay? In those days the influence of location was taken more seriously than it is today. Although he had family connections with Arran, Mr Currie was a Speyside distiller and determined that his malt should be more in the Speyside style – sweet and fruity – and these chacteristics are apparent in this Arran single cask – one of the oldest expressions ever released, and exclusive to The Whisky Shop stores in London. I was a guest speaker at the distillery’s 21st birthday celebrations in 2016 and sat beside the company’s chairman, who was also a principal investor in the project. He said to me: “The one thing I regret more than anything is not investing more in the early days. Stocks of long-aged Arran are very low, since casks had to be sold over the years to keep the ship afloat.” This sherry cask from 1996 has produced an outstanding example of the make – rich and complex, sweet and sour, wholly satisfying. It provides a rare oportunity to acquire a very scarce bottle indeed.

“Cherries, figs and crystalised angelica root… with a warming finish and lingering chocolate orange.”

Loch Lomond 2011 20/895 The Whisky Shop Exclusive 70cl 10 Year Old Highland Single Malt

55.5% VOL £60

Pale amber in colour, with a pink blush. Good beading and good legs. The nosefeel is soft and the aroma faintly floral (rose petals) and faintly winey (rosé wine, white grapes), supported by a fruity complex (lychees, green apple) – all fresh and delicate. The taste is surprisingly sweet, drying to a spicy finish.

“Rose petals… rosé wine, white grapes, supported by a fruity complex (lychees, green apple)…”

Loch Lomond Distillery has long been an invisible giant. Although it is one of the largest distilleries in Scotland, producing both malt and grain spirit on the same site – currently ten million litres of the latter and 2.5 million litres of the former – its products have until now been available mainly in export markets. It has been described as Scotland’s ‘most versatile’ distillery on account of the different styles of spirit it produces from a baffling range of still-types – two traditional pot stills, four ‘hybrid’ stills (which replace the swan necks of traditional pot stills with

short, straight-necked rectifying columns, fitted with adjustable plates, enabling the operator to produce different styles of spirit), one traditional Coffey still and one uniquely modified Coffey still capable of producing malt spirit (although it has to be named ‘grain whisky,’ since ‘malt whisky’ must be made in a pot still). The distillery also peats at different levels, from unpeated to heavily peated; combined with the different stills, eight distinct styles of spirit may be produced. The Loch Lomond website states: “We produce a full range of malts from heavily

peated (typical of Islay), to complex and fruity (typical of Highland), and also soft and fruity (typical of Lowland).” This 10-year-old Loch Lomond single cask is unpeated and was distilled in the distillery’s traditional swan neck pot stills, then matured in a first-fill ex-Bordeaux red wine hogshead. A limited edition dram, it was exclusively bottled for The Whisky Shop.

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

New Releases

Duncan Taylor The Octave Laphroaig 2004 The Whisky Shop Exclusive 70cl 17 Year Old Islay Single Malt

52.9% VOL £365

Pale amber in colour; good beading, thick, fast-running legs. Nose-drying, with top notes of carbolic, chlorine and coal tar, supported by charred barbecued meat marinated in oil and herbs. An oily texture and a sweet, salty and ashy taste, finishing with mouth-cooling Szechuan pepper and bags of smoke. Classic Laphroaig.

“A sweet, salty and ashy taste, finishing with mouth-cooling Szechuan pepper and bags of smoke.”

Like many other distilleries, Laphroaig started as a nest of smugglers. The first license was taken out by Donald and Alexander Johnston, tenant farmers, in 1815. Their laird was Walter Frederick Campbell, whose grandfather, Daniel Campbell of Shawfield, had bought Islay and part of Jura for £12,000 in 1725 with money he had received in compensation from the government, after having his Glasgow mansion damaged by the mob on account of his support for the unpopular Malt Tax. Laphroaig remained in the Johnston family until the 1950s. Perhaps the most remarkable scion of the family was Ian Hunter, Donald’s great-grandson, who became manager in 1908 and sole owner 20 years later. During the 1920s, Ian Hunter set about selling his whisky in the United States, one of the earliest single malts to be promoted there. Prohibition was still in place, but a loophole in the law allowed whisky to be sold ‘for medicinal purposes,’ and Laphroaig’s medicinal character made it perfect for such. While he was abroad, the distillery was managed by his secretary, Bessie Williamson, and when he died in 1954 he bequeathed Laphroaig to her. By this time the distillery was badly in need of repair. In order to raise the funds to do this, Bessie sold a third of her shares to an American distiller, the Schenley Corporation, and by 1970 Schenley had complete ownership. The days of privately owned distilleries were over – today only a handful are in private ownership. Like many other distilleries, Laphroaig became an item on a multi-national corporation’s balancesheet: Long John International, Whitbread, Allied Lyons, Allied Domecq and since 2005, Fortune Brands, owners of Jim Beam, which merged with Suntory in 2014 to become Beam Suntory. As readers of Whiskeria will be aware, Laphroaig is a highly phenolic malt – smoky and medicinal – much enjoyed by its many devotees around the world. It is one of only nine distilleries with its own traditional floor maltings, using local peat which contributes these characteristics. This single cask bottling comes from independent bottler Duncan Taylor & Co., and, unusually, has been drawn from an octave cask – one eighth of a butt, or around 60 litres.

Golden Cask Caol Ila 35 Year Old The Whisky Shop Exclusive 70cl 35 Year Old Islay Single Malt

47.5% VOL £650

18CT gold in hue; excellent legs. A very mild nose-feel and an aroma reminiscent of an old fashioned medicine cupboard – Elastoplast, antiseptic cream, carbolic – backed by a suggestion of an extinguished bonfire on a beach. A soft texture and a sweet, slightly salty, smoky taste. Complex and well-mannered. Best enjoyed straight.

“Elastoplast, antiseptic cream, carbolic – backed by a suggestion of an extinguished bonfire on a beach.”

The Golden Cask series is the flagship for the single malts released by the independent bottler House of Macduff, founded in 1992. For each expression Jane Macduff, her son Iain and former distillery manager John McDougall select a single cask and bottle it at cask strength, free from chill filtration or colour adjustment. The company has presented some gems in the last years: Macduff 33 and 35 Year Old, Bunnahabhain 28 Year Old, Benrinnes 21 Year Old, and also impressive younger whiskies that are first rate including Craigellachie 10 Year Old and Longmorn 9 Year Old. The website Whiskybase scored their previous bottling of Caol Ila 1982 an impressive 90.86%. Caol Ila Distillery was founded in 1846, overlooking the Sound of Islay, from which it takes its name. Alfred Barnard described it in 1887 as being “on the very verge of the sea… in a deep recess of the mountain, mostly cut out of the solid rock.” It was substantially “extended and improved” by the Glasgow blender Bulloch Lade and Company in 1879, then largely demolished (apart from a fine threestorey warehouse) in 1972 and replaced by a large glass-fronted building housing six stills, making it the largest distillery on Islay. The view from the stillhouse across the Sound to the Paps of Jura is memorable. Caol Ila was again expanded in 2011/12, with a further pair of stills being added, increasing capacity by 700,000 litres of alcohol per annum, much of which goes into Diageo’s blends, including Johnnie Walker. The heavily peated malt (30 to 35 parts per million phenols) comes from Port Ellen Maltings and is the same as that supplied to Caol Ila’s sister distillery, Lagavulin, which makes for a very interesting comparative tasting – the two whiskies are very different.

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

New Releases

Buffalo Trace The Whisky Shop Exclusive 70cl NAS Kentucky Bourbon

45% VOL £50

Deep amber with copper lights. The immediate scent is of planed oak, with a hint of natural turpentine and pine sap – especially at reduced strength. A smooth texture and a sweet and oaky taste, with lingering coconut and vanilla cream in the aftertaste.

In his splendid World Atlas of Whisky, Dave Broom opens his essay on Buffalo Trace Distillery: “First there came the buffalo, finding a fording point on a bend of the Kentucky River on their annual migration. Then there came the Lee brothers who set up a trading post, ‘Leestown’ in 1775. Today there’s a massive distillery that seems to have acquired more names than most along the way: OFC, Stagg, Schenley, Ancient Age, Leestown – and now Buffalo Trace.” A huge range of bourbon and rye whiskeys are made there: wheated bourbon and single barrels (W.L.Weller and Eagle Rare were covered by this magazine recently), straight rye whisky (Sazerac, Handy), straight bourbon (Blanton’s, the Pappy Van Winkle range) and Buffalo Trace itself. You might well ask how a single distillery manages to make so many different styles of whiskey? Master Distiller Harlen Wheatley told Dave Broom that the distillery has “five big recipes (known as mash bills), but we only run one at a time. So we’ll be on wheated for six to eight weeks, then rye/ bourbon, and then one of three different rye recipes.” Only one yeast strain is used – American distillers place a lot of importance on their yeast strains – but the fermenters are of different sizes, creating different brewing environments. Then the distillation for each brand is totally different, with varying degrees of reflux and distillation strengths. When it comes to maturation, Buffalo Trace has a wide variety of warehouses, each with different micro-climates. “We have 75 different floors in total, split across three sites,” explains Wheatley. “Brick-built, stone-built, heated… Because each floor and warehouse is different, so the location of barrels is important for each brand, and since we go from three years old to 23, we have to figure it all out.” This is a unique single barrel bottling of Buffalo Trace, selected exclusively for The Whisky Shop.

“Natural turpentine and pine sap… with lingering coconut and vanilla cream in the aftertaste.”

Smooth Ambler Old Scout The Whisky Shop Exclusive 70cl NAS USA Bourbon

59% VOL £84.99

Deep amber, with copper lights. A mellow nose with top notes of caramel toffee and maple syrup, backed by a curious burnt toast note. Simple and youthful. The taste is very sweet to start, then lightly mentholic (mouth-cooling) with a peppery finish. Maple syrup returns in the aftertaste.

Smooth Ambler Spirits is an unusual company, both a distiller in West Virginia, founded in 2009, and a procurer of whiskeys from other distilleries – as they say: “It’s pretty hard for a young distillery to make aged whiskey without a time machine, but there is a way to do it without compromising on quality. We find the right barrels, not of our making but to our liking, from a trusted source and made with all American ingredients.” The name derives from the easy-going gait of smooth-ambling horses, which travel at a pace between a walk and a trot (you can see the nose of one on the label), while ‘Old Scout’ refers to the fact that the source of the whiskey has been ‘scouted out’ – in the case of this barrel from the MPG Distillery in Lawrenceburg, Indiana. MPG was founded by one Cloud L. Cray Senior and is still managed by the third generation of his family. It specialises in supplying “whiskeys, bourbons, ryes, gins and vodkas” in collaboration with “small start-ups and global brands alike.” They state on their website: “Whether we’re collaborating with each other or with our customers, we take pride in our craft and refuse to settle for anything less than exceptional.” Hand-selected for The Whisky Shop, the barrel has been heavily charred and filled with 53 gallons of spirit. The resulting whiskey is non chill-filtered and bottled at natural strength. Smooth Ambler is very keen on transparency and openness. The official tasting note says it is: “sweet and smooth, with notes of butterscotch and cherry pipe tobacco.”

“Top notes of caramel toffee and maple syrup, backed by a curious burnt toast note… with a peppery finish.”

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

New Releases

Platinum Old & Rare Clynelish 27 Year Old

Platinum Old & Rare Dalmore 29 Year Old

Platinum Old & Rare Glenturret 30 Year Old

70cl 27 Year Old Highland Single Malt

70cl 29 Year Old Highland Single Malt

70cl 30 Year Old Highland Single Malt

48.9% VOL £490

Pale amber in hue. Very good beading, generous legs. The initial top notes are curiously reminiscent of paraffin wax, beneath this a trace of clover and honeysuckle, on a faintly maritime base. The taste at full strength is intense and teeth-coating. Benefits from water, which raises the waxy texture and floral notes.

These three malts come from the family company, Hunter Laing, and were bottled under their super-premium Platinum Old & Rare label, about which they write: “Whilst we are proud to place the Laing family name on all the casks we bottle, there are some whiskies which are so remarkable that they deserve a little extra recognition. Hunter Laing's Old & Rare name signifies a rare single cask malt that has been bottled at the peak of its flavour. Whether it was the water, the wood, or even the location in the warehouse, circumstances have conspired to create a sublime drinking experience which once consumed, can never be repeated.” The whisky is bottled at natural strength and colour, without chill-filtration. The first of the trio is from Clynelish Distillery, built close to a former distillery of the same name in 1968. The former distillery, renamed ‘Brora,’ was closed in 1983 and reopened earlier this year. The distillery’s design follows a similar design to Caol Ila, known as the ‘Waterloo Street’ style, named after Scottish Malt Distiller's headquarters in Glasgow and devised by the company's chief engineer to be efficient, aesthetically pleasing and pleasant to work in, thanks to the large windows in the stillhouse, which can be opened, making the room bright and airy. The key characteristic of Clynelish is ‘waxy’ – from new make spirit to long matured examples like this one – and this character is what Diageo’s quality control experts require from every batch of spirit. Some years ago, it disappeared. The manager received a phone

55.7% VOL £465

Full gold with amber lights. Good beading. Mellow nose, with light prickle. Top notes of apple tart (fatty pastry, maybe dumpling?), then ripe pear and scrumpy cider. A drop of water develops citric notes with a spicy finish. Soft mouthfeel, lightly sweet with light acidity.

call, and since a manager’s key responsibility is to maintain spirit character, he was understandably concerned, especially when the next few weeks’ distillate failed to regain the desired waxiness. A senior chemist was sent to Clynelish Distillery to investigate and after rigorous enquiry discovered that shortly before the waxy character disappeared, a spirit receiver tank had been replaced. While this was being done, the engineers took the opportunity to clean the pipes… It turned out that this delectable flavour comes from slimy gunk which builds up in the pipework and tank! After a while the waxiness returned of its own accord. The second expression comes from Dalmore Distillery at Alness in Ross-shire. Owned by Whyte & Mackay, its whisky is ‘curated’ by that company’s master blender, Richard Paterson, who has created a number of very old and rare expressions, several of which have broken world records for prices achieved – in 2017 a unique collection of 12 bottles bearing Richard’s name, the oldest dating from 1926, was sold for £1 million. The distillery was founded in 1839 and has several unique features which contribute to the flavour of the spirit. The four wash stills have flat tops rather than swan necks, which makes for a heavy, musky style, while the four spirit stills are fitted with water jackets around their necks, so the copper is continually cooled, increasing reflux and making for an oily, musky spirit. One of the spirit stills is twice as large as the other three and produces a very different style of spirit – citric fruits and aromatic spices. The two styles are mixed

42.5% VOL £455

18CT gold. A mild, rounded aroma, somewhat nose-drying – balsawood – and savoury overall, followed by a twist of lemon. A soft texture and a surprisingly sweet taste, with a savoury edge and a medium-length, lightly peppery finish. Cold chicken drumstick in the aftertaste.

prior to being filled into cask. It is claimed that the stills are the oldest in the Highlands; part of one of them dates from 1874. The final expression was produced at Glenturret Distillery. The district in which Glenturret stands on the outskirts of Crieff was recorded as a haunt of smugglers as far back as 1717, one of whom tenanted the farm upon which the distillery would later be built. Based on the fact that this farmerdistiller was known to be operating in 1775, its owner claims Glenturret to be the oldest distillery in Scotland. When whisky historian Alfred Barnard visited in 1887 it was very old fashioned – “The inner workings of the distillery are of the oldest fashion, plan and type, and of the same character as that in vogue half a century since” – and still today, Glenturret’s equipment is quaint – particularly its mash tun, which has no mechanical stirring gear and must be agitated and the draff emptied by hand with a wooden paddle and a shovel. Closed and dismantled during the 1920s, it was revived by an entrepreneur named James Fairlie who bought the site in 1957, repaired and restored the buildings and reinstated the equipment with a view to, in his words, “preserving the craft traditions of malt distilling and developing its appreciation.” To this end he welcomed visitors and laid on tours and tastings. This facility was greatly expanded by Edrington in 2002 (its subsidiary Highland Distillers had bought the site in 1990), but it sold the distillery to Swiss company Lalique in 2018. Lalique plans a major upgrade, with an investment of around £12 million.

“Top notes of apple tart… then ripe pear and scrumpy cider… with a spicy finish.”

“Paraffin wax… a trace of clover and honeysuckle, on a faintly maritime base.”

“Savoury overall, followed by a twist of lemon... Cold chicken drumstick in the aftertaste.”

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

New Releases

First Editions Macduff 14 Year Old The Whisky Shop Exclusive 70cl 14 Year Old Highland Single Malt

46% VOL £87

Deep amber with copper lights; pale amontillado sherry. A mild nose, slightly nosewarming and spicy. Somewhat closed initially, and savoury overall, the top notes are herbal (dried parsley and moss), backed by a suggestion of pork scratchings, all subdued. After a lightly sweet start, with coconut in mid-palate, the taste dries to a spicy finish.

“Dried parsley and moss, backed by a suggestion of pork scratchings… with coconut in mid-palate.”

This expression of Macduff has been bottled by Hunter Laing as part of its First Editions series of younger, easy drinking malts, the cask selected by Andrew Laing. Macduff Distillery is owned by Bacardi’s subsidiary, John Dewar & Sons. Its proprietary bottling is named The Deveron (formerly Glen Deveron) after the well-known salmon river which joins the Moray Firth just beyond the distillery. A mile or so to the east of the distillery is the fishing port of Macduff, a model village established in 1783 by James Duff, Earl of Fife, which became one of the leading herring ports in Scotland during the 19th century, curing and exporting fish to Northern Europe via the Baltic ports. On the other side of the Deveron, only a mile from Macduff, is the ancient and elegant Royal Burgh of Banff. There has long been rivalry between the two ports. Macduff Distillery was built in 1960, designed by the leading distillery architect of the day, William Delme Evans, who also designed Jura, Tullibardine and Glenallachie Distilleries. Its plan incorporated several novelties which are now commonplace, such as stainless steel washbacks, shell-and-tube condensers and stills heated by steam coils and pans rather than being direct-fired from below. In 1972 the distillery was bought by William Lawson Distillers, a subsidiary of the Italian company Martini & Rossi which promoted Glen Deveron 5 Year Old so vigorously in the Italian and French markets that by mid-decade it was the fifth best-selling single malt in the world. Unknown in the UK, William Lawson’s blended Scotch is also the fourth best-selling Scotch in the world today (40 million bottles in 2019, sold mainly in Southern Europe and Mexico). The heart malt for Lawson’s is Macduff.

Gordon & MacPhail Glenburgie 1995 The Whisky Shop Exclusive 70cl 25 Year Old Speyside Single Malt

55.8% VOL £275

Brassy gold in colour, with excellent beading. A sharp and prickly nose-feel. At natural strength, the top notes are of spun honey, with clover flowers. Water introduces a light mentholic note and a suggestion of orange peel. A creamy texture and a sweet taste, with a return of the peel in the finish and a coconut aftertaste.

“Spun honey, with clover flowers. Water introduces a light mentholic note and a suggestion of orange peel.”

Gordon & MacPhail, the world’s leading independent bottler, founded in 1895, is renowned for the quality of its whiskies. Within a year of its establishment in Elgin, the founding partners were joined by John Urquhart, who took responsibility for the selection of fine and rare malt whiskies, maturing them in the firm’s own casks – in those days, mainly casks which had been used to transport sherry from Spain – and blending and bottling them himself. In 1915 he became a senior partner, and in 1933 was joined by his son George. ‘Mr George,’ as he was universally known, was a legend in the Scotch whisky industry. Indeed, it is no exaggeration to describe him as ‘The Father of Malt Whisky.’ When he took over from his father in 1950 he began to bottle and promote some of his stock as single malts and to bottle others (The Macallan and Glen Grant, for example) for the distillery owners. ‘Single whiskies’ were very uncommon at this time. In the mid-1960s George Urquhart took the unprecedented step of launching a range of single malts from different distilleries under the brand name Connoisseur’s Choice and offered the range for sale in the rapidly expanding Italian, French, American and Dutch markets. This move built the foundations of the significant interest in malt whisky in these countries that remains to this day. Just as his father had introduced him into the family firm, so George brought in his own children, passing on the skills he had inherited from his father. Now they in turn are assisted by their sons and daughters, the fourth generation, and although Gordon & MacPhail is now a limited company, it is still managed and controlled by members of the Urquhart family. Glenburgie is a key filling malt for Ballantine’s and Chivas Regal, so is uncommon as a single whisky. The distillery was demolished in 2004 and rebuilt on an adjacent site, resuming production the next year. Remarkably, the original distillery building from 1829 still stands – a small cottage with an outside stair leading to a single room, with a low-ceiling cellar beneath. It has been tastefully restored as a tasting room.

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

New Releases

Benriach Malting Season 70cl NAS Speyside Single Malt

48.7% VOL £99

Deep gold in hue, from a mix of ex-bourbon and virgin oak casks. Light prickle. The top notes are dry and floury, backed by baked apple, with a hint of almond slice dusted with icing sugar and desiccated coconut at reduced strength. A smooth texture and very sweet taste (barley sugar), finishing with more coconut and light spice.

Benriach Distillery and its maltings were built in 1897/98 by a local entrepreneur, John Duff, who had founded Longmorn Distillery in 1893. Due to the general downturn in the industry in 1899, he was obliged to sell both distilleries to a consortium of blenders trading as the Longmorn-Glenlivet Distilleries Ltd. Benriach was mothballed in 1900, refurbished and reopened in 1965, and changed ownership twice before being mothballed again. In 2004, it was sold to a consortium led by Billy Walker. It resumed production in November that year, and was sold to Brown Forman, along with Glendronach and Glenglassaugh Distilleries, in 2016 for £285 million. Notwithstanding the distillery’s periodic closures, Benriach’s maltings continued to operate until 1999, mainly to supply malt to its neighbour, Longmorn, to which it was connected by a quarter mile long railway line until 1980, when the line was dismantled. In 1983 Benriach began to produce a limited amount of lightly peated malt each year – “Just a few shovels an hour onto the kiln fire to create a very lightly peated malt,” according to Alan McConnochie, the distillery manager. This continued annually until 1999, when the maltings were closed, and resumed in 2013 when the maltings reopened. Although peated expressions of Benriach have remained part of the distillery’s core range, this first edition of

Benriach Malting Season celebrates the floor malting process itself, and showcases the malted barley (concerto variety), uninfluenced by peat smoke. Stuart Buchanan, Benriach’s brand ambassador explains: “Every year during malting season our dedicated team of craftsmen malt barley on-site the old way using historic floor maltings. The malt produced during our malting season results in a wholesome and creamy single malt of exceptional richness of character, a tribute to our founder and the slow craft of his historic maltings.”

“Baked apple, with a hint of almond slice dusted with icing sugar and desiccated coconut…”

Please savour responsibly

Crafted without compromise from American and European oak sherry seasoned casks. THE MACALLAN DOUBLE CASK RANGE

Photography by Steve McCurry For further information contact Edrington-Beam Suntory UK Distribution Limited. Tel: +44 (0) 333 016 1910 Web: Edrington-BeamSuntoryUK.com

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

News

Whisky business

The Indiana way Keep your eyes peeled for an 'Indiana rye.' Just like ‘Kentucky bourbon’ and ‘Tennessee whiskey,’ the term is now a protected whiskey category, with hopes of boosting employment and tourism within the state of Indiana. By law, Indiana producers are now allowed to use ‘Indiana rye’ on their labels, so long as the spirit is mashed, fermented, distilled and barrelaged for a minimum of two years in Indiana, and meets other certain requirements, including having a mash bill containing at least 51% rye. Indiana, here we come!

Two for the road First Bowmore and Aston Martin; now The Macallan and Bentley – car and whisky aficionados have a lot to be thankful for. The two luxury brands have announced a global brand partnership, with focus on carbon neutrality, the use of sustainable materials and sourcing from local suppliers. “The Macallan and Bentley Motors each have a rich heritage, and shared values of mastery, craftsmanship, creativity and innovation,” explains The Macallan Managing Director Igor Boyadjian who emphasises that a commitment to a more sustainable future is at the core of the partnership. “Our collaboration presents a remarkable opportunity to compare our time-earned knowledge and learn from each other.” Watch this space for future Macallan-Bentley experiences, products and more.

A legend returns After almost four decades of dormancy, Brora is back. Originally built in 1819, the Sutherlandbased distillery primarily produced peated spirit for blends, but after its closure in 1983 its remaining rare whisky stocks began to gain cult status among single malt enthusiasts. As part of a three-year restoration project by distillery owner Diageo, Brora was taken down and reconstructed stone by stone, replicating the site when it was new in 1819. Sutherland native Stewart Bowman has taken the reigns as Brora's master distiller, officially marking the opening of the site’s gates by filling the distillery's first cask in more than 38 years. Whiskeria’s Gavin D Smith was lucky enough to be one of the first whisky enthusiasts to step on the scene, sharing his Brora experience later in this edition.

Distillery Visit

Three cheers for Charlie Whiskeria’s own Charlie MacLean has only gone and got himself an MBE. Honoured for his services to Scotch whisky, UK exports and charity, the legendary whisky writer describes the honour as one of his proudest moments. Of his whisky career, Charlie says “It continues to be a joy to write on this special subject, and when I turned in my first article in 1981, I could not have imagined the events that would unfold over the next four decades.” Congratulations, Charlie!

First dram in five centuries Lindores Abbey’s first whisky in 527 years is here. This highly anticipated release has been matured for three and a half years in a combination of ex-bourbon, ex-sherry and STR (shaved, toasted and re-charred) ex-Burgundy wine casks, offering notes of vanilla, caramel, green apples and pear drops. Often referred to as the birthplace of Scotch whisky, Lindores Abbey is the officially recognised site of the first recorded distillation of the spirit in 1494. The original Abbey was founded in the 12th century, with the new distillery opening on the site in 2017. “It’s a huge moment for us,” explains Company Director Andrew McKenzie Smith. “I personally feel it’s the end of the first chapter, and the beginning of the second, because it’s been a very long journey to get to this point.” A must-have for your whisky cabinet: pick up a bottle in-store or online at whiskyshop.com.

Expert Tasting

A grand old age Independent bottler Gordon & MacPhail have announced plans to release the world’s oldest single malt Scotch: an 80-year-old Glenlivet. Laid down on 3rd February 1940 under the watch of George Urquhart and his father, John, the cask was bottled on 5th February last year, and is due to be released in September. The whisky was bottled at 44.9% VOL and will be presented in a luxury decanter designed by award-winning architect Sir David Adjaye OBE, yet to be revealed. Just 250 bottles exist. “Maturing a single malt Scotch over eight decades is an art, similar in many ways to architecture…” explains Gordon & MacPhail's managing director Ewen Mackintosh. “Neither can be rushed.”

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

The W Club

Sun, sea and drams Distillery tours are back! And The W Club is ready. Club Manager Natalie McLaughlin goes behind the scenes at Kingsbarns Distillery, with a special discount for members keen to follow suit. PHOTOGR A PHY: DEC L A N C ORCOR A N / NATA LIE M c GL AUGHLIN

Knowledge Bar Kingsbarns

S C OT L A N D Dundee Kingsbarns

NORTH SEA

Edinburgh

Located in the East Neuk of Fife, renowned for its world-class golf courses, Kingsbarns Distillery was the brainchild of local golf caddie Douglas Clement, who was continually asked by visiting golfers where they could get a dram after their game. Clement partnered up with local independent bottlers, the Wemyss family, who eventually became outright owners of the distillery.

Among the list of satisfying postlockdown ‘firsts’ – the sip of a cold pint, a fresh chop at the hairdressers, an indoor meal at a favourite restaurant – we at The W Club would like to add the delight of being back inside a distillery. And at Kingsbarns Distillery, you can be sure to make the most of this long-awaited reunion. Situated in the East Neuk of Fife, just along the coastline from St. Andrews, Kingsbarns Distillery is a more recent addition to an area of Scotland that’s famous for its historical architecture, sandy beaches and, of course, word-class golf courses. The distillery itself is housed in a converted 18th century farmstead; a meticulous marriage of old and new, updated in all the right places. The setting is nothing short of idyllic, with its sun-soaked meadows and rolling farmland, just a few minutes away from the beach. It was the perfect setting for The Whisky Shop’s first distillery trip in over a year (and for hayfever – our poor photographer!). When we arrived, we had the pleasure of being shown around by Distillery Experience Manager Michael van der Veen to learn about the story of Kingsbarns, from dream to dram.

FROM DREAM…

“Where can I go and try some whisky after this game of golf?” For local golf caddie Douglas Clement, this recurring question, asked on the course at Kingsbarns Golf Links, planted the seed of an idea. In his answer to keen whisky tourists, he would reluctantly point them towards distilleries in Edinburgh and Pitlochry – neither being very handy trips for a post-game dram. For Clement, building a distillery right next to the home of golf was a no-brainer. In his search for the perfect site, Clement decided on a semi-derelict farmstead building near the golf course. He began fundraising in local communities, receiving money from golfers that he knew, and eventually secured a grant from the EU for the licensing and building of the distillery. Still short of a few pennies, in 2010 he sent an email to William Wemyss, owner of Wemyss Malts, asking him to partner up. For Wemyss, this was a convenient proposition for a couple of reasons: the independent bottling company had long-thought about building a distillery, and it just so happened that Wemyss Castle was located nearby – a site that previously belonged to William’s

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

The W Club

Knowledge Bar Tried and tested

An afternoon of sipping whisky in sunny East Neuk? The Whisky Shop marketing team kindly obliged when Natalie asked for some company on her tour of Kingsbarns Distillery. Here’s what they made of their experience.

ancestors. It was a match made in whisky heaven, and the Wemyss family eventually became outright owners of the distillery. Douglas Clement went back to caddying, but his portrait remains in the visitor centre as an acknowledgment of the man who started it all. ...TO DRAM

“Due to Kingbarns being a smaller distillery, the tour felt more intimate than others I’ve been on – it was great to get so close to production. Our tour guide Michael was incredibly hospitable: a natural entertainer with a real passion for whisky. The vibe at the distillery seemed really relaxing and chilled out, and the addition of the café made it feel like a community distillery fitting of the village it’s in.” — rhona “It was lovely to see a modern distillery with a compact set-up. Michael’s hospitality was first-class and he was so informative. I enjoyed being in the tasting room most, and drinking whisky from STR casks which are becoming more popular these days.” — declan

Contrary to popular belief, going on one distillery tour does not equate to having seen them all. Scotch distilleries might have similarities in whisky making 101, but each has its own unique features worth exploring. Kingsbarns’ most distinctive feature is its ‘doocot’ – Scots for dovecot – and is the oldest part of the building, owned by nobility 200 years ago. It’s built from over 600 terracotta tiles – ‘doo boxes’ – that once housed a flock of pigeons to supply the laird’s kitchen with meat and eggs. Now, it proudly houses the distillery’s first cask, filled back in March 2015. The operation itself is on the smaller side, kitted out with one mash tun, four stainless steel washbacks with 11,000 litre capacity, and two copper pot stills. To paint the bigger picture: Kingsbarns produces 240,000 litres a year, which equates roughly to how much The Macallan produces in a week! There’s room to make more, but quality is taking priority over quantity at this stage. With long fermentation times of 65 to 80 hours and high-cut points in distillation, every aspect of production is geared towards making a character-rich Kingsbarns spirit: light, elegant and fruity. We won’t make this an exhaustive list of production facts and figures: that would take away the pleasure of asking those burning questions about yeast strains on the actual tour! One of the key decisions made at the start of making Kingsbarns whisky was using raw materials sourced nearby, such as laureate barley grown in the fields of Fife. Maturation

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With long fermentation times of 65 to 80 hours and high-cut points in distillation, every aspect of production is geared towards making a characterrich Kingsbarns spirit: light, elegant and fruity.

happens off-site, mainly in first-fill ex-bourbon casks sourced from Heaven Hill in Kentucky. We spotted a neat pile of these casks basking in the sun during our visit, with sprinklers keeping the oak hydrated. It was a serene view, with Fife’s rolling farmland in the backdrop – the perfect palate cleanser before a whisky tasting! A WHISKY OASIS

Savvy to the great potential of tourists, the distillery offers more than most within its visitor centre: there’s a retail shop, wellstocked with whiskies from Kingsbarns and Wemyss Malts, branded merchandise and whisky-related trinkets; a café with indoor and outdoor seating; a gin distillery in the

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Our first distillery trip in many moons was certainly one worth waiting for, with gorgeous weather and five-star hospitality from the Kingsbarns staff. Kingsbarns Distillery is kitted out with one mash tun, four stainless steel washbacks with 11,000 litre capacity, and two copper pot stills. The distillery’s spirit is light, elegant and fruity, thanks to long fermentation times of 65 to 80 hours and high-cut points in distillation.

in no fewer than 14 different cask types, including plenty of ex-sherry and ex-port. To say that Kingsbarns is young and promising might be cliché, but the 26 other countries who import it certainly believe in its potential. At the end of the tour, we soaked up the sun on the outside picnic benches of the café, drinking tea, coffee – and you guessed it, more whisky! Our first distillery trip in many moons was certainly one worth waiting for, with gorgeous weather and five-star hospitality from the Kingsbarns staff. With little time to beat the traffic back to Glasgow, it was a struggle to say goodbye, but we had one last pit stop before heading home. Not a game of golf or a walk around St. Andrews’ famous university campus… but instead a Hawaiian cheese toastie at The Cheesy Toast Shack on Kingsbarns Beach. DOUBLE THE FUN

cottage next door which produces Darnley’s Gin and runs make-your-own-gin workshops. As we walked through the botanical gardens between the two distilleries Michael helpfully pointed out photograph opportunities, but truthfully, it’s near impossible to get a bad view at Kingsbarns. Or in fact, a bad whisky, as we learned in the distillery’s tasting room. The room had a charming and cosy feel, adorned with a fireplace at the back; it made a welcome change from the virtual tastings that have been taking place from our sofas! We started off strong (cask strengthstrong!) with some Kingsbarns new make spirit at 63.5% VOL. The taste was pleasantly light and fruity; rich in floral notes and orchard fruits. Next up was Dream to Dram,

the distillery’s flagship single malt that is bottled at just three and a half years old, after being aged in first-fill ex-bourbon casks and ‘STR’ (shaved, toasted and re-charred) casks. The result? A tropical dram that treats the palate to a sweet, biscuity finish – kind of like shortbread. Since Dream to Dram’s initial sell-out, Kingsbarns wasted no time in meeting demand for follow-up bottlings. 2020 saw the arrival of sherry cask-matured Balcomie and more recently in 2021, limited edition Bellrock, aged in ex-bourbon and ex-oloroso sherry casks. And there’s more to come: Kingbarns fans can expect to see even more experimental releases from the distillery in the near future, with 10 per cent of Kingsbarns’ spirit currently being matured

It goes without saying that we loved the tour at Kingsbarns – and we want you to share the experience! For members of The W Club, Kingsbarns Distillery will be kindly offering discounts on tours: £12 off when you buy two standard tours, or £12 off the total amount when you buy two experiences, including the ‘Dream to Dram Tour,’ ‘19th Hole Tour,’ and experiences at the Gin School. Head to tws.cx/clubtours to unlock your discount. Not a member of The W Club yet? Sign up today for just £30 a year, giving you access to this exclusive deal, plus members-only tastings, Whisky Wednesday discounts, a quarterly subscription to Whiskeria and more. Sign up online at whiskyshop.com/club.

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Auctions

On the road again When not running the show at our Piccadilly boutique, you’ll find The Whisky Shop’s Alan Robertson driving around the country, picking up auction bottles from all over the UK. We get the inside scoop from Alan on The Whisky Shop Auctions’ home collection service.

Alan, tell us about this new collection service, available through The Whisky Shop Auctions. After years of refining our auction service, Auction Manager Chris knew the time was right to ‘get on the road.’ This bespoke home collection service means we’re able to collect customers’ whisky bottles directly from their doorsteps and deliver them straight to our auction house in Glasgow. It’s a fantastic service because it eradicates any kind of worry for the customer – especially when sending high value bottles. We’ve also found that it’s a particularly popular service for customers who wish to sell a larger collection. What are the advantages for customers? One of the biggest advantages is that we’re able to pick up larger collections that would have otherwise been a bit of a nightmare to send via courier. The packing process is also extremely easy. We simply ask customers to pack their bottles safely and clearly display their name on each of their boxes. Once we have collected their boxes, customers can relax knowing their bottles are insured, and that there is no possibility of the parcel going missing or arriving damaged. Further to this, the service is currently free, however we do have a minimum pick up amount of ten bottles, or minimum pick up value of £1,000.

How can customers arrange collection of their bottles? Collection can be arranged simply by calling our auction house on 0141 427 2950, sending the team an email at auctions@whiskyshop.com, or getting in touch via social media. If easier, customers can also contact their local branch of The Whisky Shop in the first instance. Which routes does the home collection service cover? There are no restrictions on route. Typically, the van will leave Glasgow and travel down the east coast of the UK, before meeting up with the team in London. All of the London bottles will then be loaded before the van heads back up to Glasgow, this time via the west coast. But as I said, there are no restrictions, so get in touch regardless of where you are in the UK, and we’ll soon be on the road to you. You must meet some interesting people and collectors along the way? Definitely. We whisky collectors and enthusiasts are always looking to chat about rare whisky and exchange tips on what the next hot investment is (while trying to stay on schedule!).

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Auctions

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It’s a fantastic service because it eradicates any kind of worry for the customer – especially when sending high value bottles. We’ve also found that it’s a particularly popular service for customers who wish to sell a larger collection.

What has been the most spectacular bottle you have picked up so far? There have been so many, and these often take you by surprise – from very old Dalmores to Fine and Rare Macallans. One of my all-time favourites has to be a Bowmore Bicentenary 1779. Beautiful presentation! What’s your on-the-road playlist? I like easy-listening music, as well as lots of tracks from the 70s and 80s, but when I’m on the open road it has to be The Traveling Wilburys. How about your favourite part of the country to drive through? I have to say my homeland of Scotland, however on one particular collection route I travelled through the Peak District and I was blown away. When did you first get a taste for whisky? I discovered whisky late in life when I was invited to a tasting event and from that day, I was hooked! I love a big, bold, sherried dram. I’m drinking Bowmore 18 Year Old Fèis Ìle 2021 at the moment. It’s a beautiful combination of smoke and sherry.

Knowledge Bar Auctions made easy

Do you buy and sell whisky at auction? Yes, I often buy whisky at auction, especially limited releases which are much harder to get hold of today. Auctions are also great for finding little gems from closed distilleries. Are you a whisky collector? If so, tell us about some of your most prized bottles. I’ve been a whisky collector for several years now, and a couple of my most prized whiskies are Karuizawa bottlings that I picked up early on. Being originally from Perth, I also have a small collection of 50s and 60s blends and malts from my hometown – bottlings from Dewars, Bell’s and Matthew Gloag. As well as using The Whisky Shop Auctions’ home collection service, can customers still drop off their bottles and pick up their winnings in-store? Yes, now that we’re returning to a little bit of normality, we’re seeing more and more auction bottles once again being collected from store via the ‘Click and Collect’ option online. We have 20 stores across the UK, so it may be more convenient for you to drop off and pick up your bottles from your local branch. Whatever works best for you, we’re here to help.

Looking to buy or sell whisky at auction? With our network of shops across the UK and France, we have 22 convenient locations to drop off bottles and pick up winning lots, taking the stress out of posting and packaging your prized drams. Those who prefer to post their bottles to us can do so by sending them to either our UK or European hub, or UK customers can make use of our home collection service that picks up bottles directly from your doorstep. Whether you’re buying or selling, head to whiskyshop.com/auctions to start your journey!

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

A Time in History

London calling Whisky without limits: Brian Wilson heads south of the border to discover how English distillers do it in the Big Smoke and beyond. F EATU R E IL LU STR ATION: K AT IE SMIT H

The words ‘whisky distillery’ may conjure up images of iconic buildings with signature pagodas, set amidst mountains, glens and streams. Whisper it in the presence of the marketeers but these characteristics are not absolutely essential, and locations do vary. To quote one unlikely example, you can take the Central Line on London Underground to Mile End Station, walk down Grange Road past terraced houses and a couple of churches, and there you are at a whisky distillery on Bow Wharf, where the Regent’s Canal and Hertford Union Canal meet in London’s East End. Yes, this is definitely different. In 2018, East London Liquor Company produced the first ‘London whisky’ in 114 years, since the closure of Lea Valley Distillery in Stratford. Lea Valley was, by all accounts, quite a big operation with an output which at that time would have put it in the top 20 of Scottish malt distilleries. So there is nothing intrinsically new in the idea of London’s own whisky. It’s just been in abeyance for a while. The Scots and Irish gave the drink its name through the (almost) shared Gaelic words ‘uisge beatha’ and therefore a lead time of several centuries in image rights. However, this never guaranteed a monopoly

of production and English whisky has its own distinctive history – as well as an interesting present and future. Since the millennium, small distilleries have been popping up all over the place. In 2005, St. George’s Distillery in Roudham, Norfolk, became England’s first registered whisky producer for over 100 years. Adnams of Southwold in Suffolk entered the market in 2013, proudly announcing “Whisky Handcrafted in England.” The Cotswolds Distillery, launched in 2017, uses only locally grown barley. On the edge of Dartmoor National Park, you will find Devon’s first whisky distillery at Newton Abbey. The idea of a Dartmoor whisky had its origins on Islay where one of the founders, Greg Millar, dreamt up the project while working at Bruichladdich. If you prefer an island malt, the Isle of Wight might not be the first place that springs to mind but there is indeed a distillery at Ryde, licensed in 2014 to produce whisky with the first consignment laid down the following year. And so on around England. When Alfred Barnard set off on his epic travels in the 1880s to visit and write about every whisky distillery in the United Kingdom, he found 129 in Scotland, 29 in

Ireland, and four in England – of which Lea Valley became the last survivor in that era. Barnard’s journeys and journals were characteristic of the Victorian era – an extraordinary undertaking in an age when travel to the remotest corners of the country was challenging to say the least. He was a man of Essex whose career evolved

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English whisky has its own distinctive history – as well as an interesting present and future. Since the millennium, small distilleries have been popping up all over the place.

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

A Time in History

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Whereas every aspect of Scotch whisky – production, labelling and marketing – are defined in law, there are far fewer inhibitions on what the English innovators can do to experiment, so long as they stay inside EU regulations. through the grocery trade to writing for Harper’s Weekly Gazette, a wines and spirits magazine, where he hit on the idea of visiting every distillery in the UK, which at that time included the whole of Ireland. These dispatches appeared first as articles for the magazine and were subsequently collected into The Whisky Distilleries of the United Kingdom – an invaluable tome published in 1887 which describes the industry exactly as it was at that time, and confirms that England had a minor role to play. A similar exercise today would find it hard to keep up. While the emergence of microdistilleries in the rolling English countryside may have been expected, there is something edgier about the belated revival of London whisky. This appeals directly to the urban hipster market – always looking for the next new thing. If they are going to drink whisky at all, then why not choose a bottle from the gantry that has a different narrative behind it, less confined by tradition and convention? Andy Mooney, Head of Production at East London Liquor Company, certainly recognises that element in the success of the distillery’s own products. “Our founder, Alex Wolpert, used to be the operations manager for a group of bars and he saw the opportunity for a more affordable, more approachable range that people could talk about and relate to. The hipster market likes the idea of small-scale production

that experiments and offers something different and interesting.” It is also an image that fits well with the funding model. East London Liquor Company has used crowdfunding to expand the business. In 2018, it not only produced the first edition of its signature London Rye Whisky, which sold out in under 24 hours, but also raised £1.5 million from its fan-base through crowdfunding. Andy’s own persona fits well with the company’s ethos and image. He is an articulate young Irishman, from Drogheda, who loves his job and does not take life too seriously. Andy graduated as an analytical chemist at Dublin City University and learned the art of distilling under Jack O’Shea from Alltech, the global nutrition and beverages company founded by another Irishman, Pearse Lyons. In 2014, he says, there were “no jobs in Ireland” and his wife saw an advert for a whisky distiller based in London. It seemed an unlikely proposition, but Andy applied and was very promptly hired as a perfect fit for the new venture. Ever since, he has had the freedom to experiment with different cereals and yeasts to create drinks that the customers will approve of – as well as talking lovingly about the best job he can imagine! Whereas every aspect of Scotch whisky – production, labelling and marketing – are defined in law, there are far fewer inhibitions on what the English innovators can do to experiment, so long as they stay inside EU regulations. Andy says: “For example, English whisky does not have to be matured in oak – just wooden containers – so we’re experimenting with chestnut, acacia, and maple, to name a few. We’ve been lucky enough to produce whiskies that aren’t restricted by a long list of rules and regulations allowing us to focus on innovation and creativity. English whisky is a new category which is looking to join the whisky world, not compete against it. “As we’re a relatively small company we can focus more on flavour rather than yield. A lot of care is given to the grains we use, the yeasts, the distillation, the ageing and, of course, the final proof for bottling. It’s incredibly exciting to be a part of English whisky, as it’s emerging as a category, and to see what producers are creating and what the country as a whole has to offer.” Bimber Distillery, which you can find in Sunbeam Road, Park Royal, is another interesting London start-up. Its first casks were laid down in 2016 and the inaugural single malt whisky emerged three years later in a limited release of 1,000 numbered bottles which sold out in three hours. Subsequent releases have all generated significant interest and excitement. Its co-founder Dariusz Plazewski stresses

the craft element of production. “I learned the art of distilling in Poland from my grandfather and my father. When I came to the UK, I focussed on studying but it had always been my passion to follow in their footsteps and set up a distillery. In 2015 I decided I just wanted to go for it, pressed the big red button and began setting up Bimber. “The distillery’s style is inspired by the craft whisky movement. We care about the production process and we’re using traditional, hands-on methods because of that. We start with our barley, sourced from a single farm in Hampshire, which is 100 per cent floor malted. We don't mill the grain – we crack it to ensure as clean a wort as possible. Fermentation takes place in seven custom American oak washbacks which were constructed in-house, and distillation is via direct fire to ensure a powerful but slow cook. Every little touch in our distillery has been tweaked to our specification.” Bimber has been sufficiently successful to encourage plans for a new distillery in Scotland. It will produce a “more robust” whisky while still firmly focussed on being considered “craft.” Earlier this year they submitted a planning application with Moray Council for a site at Dunphail, south of Forres, to convert a farm steading into a distillery. It is a bit early to start talking about “having a glass of English” but is it time for there to be a distinct category of whiskies under that banner with its own definitions and rules, following the same pattern as Scotch? The answer is – almost certainly not. English whisky is characterised by its quirkiness, experimentation and flexibility. Probably best to leave it that way, though a latter-day Alfred Barnard to keep track would be useful.

REWILD OUR SEAS Calling all wild spirits. Join us as we work together to support the preservation of 100 million square meters of marine ecosystems. Discover more at www.RewildOurSeas.com

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Industry Insider

The pursuit of excellence Excellence is a word synonymous with The Dalmore, and certainly with its most recent release, The Dalmore Decades – a collection of six exceptional whiskies that celebrate the craftsmanship of the Highland distillery over the past 60 years. We’re intrigued – and who better than The Dalmore’s very own Master Blender Richard Paterson and Whisky Maker Gregg Glass to tell us more? We sit down with the duo to discuss all things Decades, cask curation and Richard’s incredible 50 years at The Dalmore. Richard, you’re celebrating your 55th year in the industry and 50 years at The Dalmore. Incredible! How did you come to work in the whisky industry? RICHARD: My passion for whisky really comes from dad. My father had a whisky company, and he would take me into the maturation warehouse. I remember the silence, the darkness, and the silhouettes of the casks – but most importantly, I remember the smell. Damp whisky, maderised wines. You never forget it. The legacy my dad left behind was that love and passion for whisky. “Every cask will tell a story,” he would say – and it’s true. Gregg, how did you get involved in whisky? GREGG: I started my career in whisky 22 years ago, but the recent years have been solely dedicated to whisky making. I always had a passion for whisky and growing up on the Black Isle, I was surrounded by Highland distilleries. My first job was working at a local whisky distillery as a tour guide and during this time, it really solidified that this was the industry I wanted to work in. I initially planned to go down the distillery

management path, but when I went to work for another whisky firm, I was diverted into whisky making and blending. I started working side-by-side with Richard in 2016 and the rest is history! What does it take to become a master blender? RICHARD: When it comes to being a master blender, dedication is what you need. Passion, commitment and relentless drive to make sure your product remains at the top. What makes The Dalmore different? GREGG: The Dalmore is different in what it offers through its royal heritage, expertly composed spirit, exceptional cask curation and the dedication to crafting a masterpiece. Richard’s pursuit and search for perfection really embodies those principles. RICHARD: The bell-shaped bottle which we

brought in all those years ago in 1997 allows our whisky to stand out. Whether it’s a gift or it’s up in the gantry, that iconic Dalmore stag always shines.

It’s all well having the packaging, but as Gregg says, you must have the quality of the whisky. When you go along to The Dalmore warehouses and draw whisky from the casks, you’ll discover its rich mahogany colour, with lovely cherry notes. It’s really something special. Mother Nature has taken its course and nurtured our whisky, but it’s also all about getting the right cask. Richard, you are one of the great pioneers of wine and sherry cask maturation. Why does The Dalmore spirit lend itself so well to these types of casks? RICHARD: The beauty of The Dalmore is that the size and the shape of the stills give it so much body and character, and the spirit has to be aged in casks that also have body and character. Lighter wines like fino sherry or sauvignon blanc would add something to the spirit – but not as much as a heavy port, a Madeira or Marsala sherry.

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The Dalmore is different in what it offers through its royal heritage, expertly composed spirit, exceptional cask curation and the dedication to crafting a masterpiece. Gregg Glass The Dalmore Whisky Maker

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Industry Insider

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The Dalmore Decades is a true tribute to craftsmanship forged over the years… It’s a formidable collection that will give somebody the most warming memories of a lifetime. Richard Paterson The Dalmore Master Blender

Talk us through the cask selection process. Do you know what you are looking for before you find it? RICHARD: Yes, I always have an idea of what I’m looking for. The DNA of The Dalmore is chocolate orange with a little bit of spice, so I’m always thinking of what else I can bring to it. Is it morello cherry and damson plum, with an added creaminess? In that case, I need port casks. But what kind of port: tawny or vintage? That’s what’s in my mind the whole time. November is the time that we go up to the bond at the distillery and nose thousands of casks to see their development. That really is the best and most rewarding time. Some of the casks are still asleep and not quite ready – you’ve got to be patient with the maturation process but when they glow, they really do glow.

Gregg is always looking to innovate and push the boundaries of what is possible.

make it really special. But most importantly, share it with the people you love.

Gregg, Richard must be a fantastic mentor? GREGG: Absolutely. Richard has been a huge inspiration to me right from the start of my whisky career. About 16 years ago I remember seeing him from afar sampling casks at The Dalmore – little did I know that I would be sampling casks in the very same warehouses with him all these years later! Richard’s impact on The Dalmore and the wider whisky industry cannot be understated. His reputation as a whisky maker is unrivalled and he is synonymous with The Dalmore. His impact on The Dalmore, the distillery and its whiskies will continue to be felt for generations to come and I feel honoured that he has chosen me to follow in his footsteps.

The industry is getting more and more experimental. Where do you both see it going? RICHARD: The whisky consumer is becoming far more curious, and with older whiskies not as available as they once were, we’re seeing a new style of whisky coming in and a real sense of innovation.

Gregg, what aspects of whisky making excite you most? GREGG: For me, it’s experimenting with modern and traditional techniques to create interesting flavour combinations. Collaboration in whisky making is also key – initiatives like the Scottish Oak Programme that we have built enables us to explore new planes of flavour, working in close collaboration with many across the industry.

The latest release from The Dalmore is nothing short of spectacular. Tell us about The Dalmore Decades. RICHARD: The Dalmore Decades is a true tribute to craftsmanship forged over the years, and having joined the team in 1970, it is also a wonderful way to reminisce over many highlights in my career. The whiskies are all different, cherrypicked for their nuances and styles, and everything from strength to colour has been derived from the cask. It’s a formidable collection that will give somebody the most warming memories of a lifetime. It’s a collection to be savoured, holding the whisky long in the mouth. Enjoy great after-dinner coffees and chocolate with it;

RICHARD: I’ve been working with Gregg for

five years now and it’s wonderful to work so closely with someone who is as passionate about the future of the whisky industry as he is. As well as learning the traditions and craftsmanship we have developed over time,

GREGG: I agree – I think we’re going to see

an exploration of flavour using different mediums. For me, I think it is still important to take inspiration from traditional whisky making techniques but look at the resources available today that we can utilise to explore new flavours. What’s next for The Dalmore? RICHARD: At the present moment we have hundreds of experiments going on. We’ve laid down so many different types of casks – from wine and tequilas to Calvados and Cognac. These are bubbling away underneath the surface and will be released only when they are ready. I always like to say we haven’t made our greatest Dalmore yet – there’s always room for improvement. Richard, talk to us about some of your most unforgettable Dalmore whiskies over the past 50 years. RICHARD: One of my favourites has to be The Dalmore King Alexander III. It’s different because of the six finishes we use: port,

Knowledge Bar The Dalmore Decades

The Dalmore Decades 1951

The Dalmore Decades 1980

60 Year Old | 42.6% VOL

40 Year Old | 40.8% VOL

Black treacle / Ginger / Cocoa powder

Dark chocolate / Marzipan / Cocoa powder

One of the oldest whiskies ever released by The Dalmore, and the last of the whisky distilled during the Mackenzie era, the pinnacle of the collection celebrates the Mackenzie family heritage that allows The Dalmore to proudly display the royal stag on every bottle. Matured in twin sherry casks, this spectacular 60-year-old single malt is the only bottle of its kind.

The second 40-year-old in the collection celebrates the decade in which Richard Paterson arrived at The Dalmore. Taking the traditional maturation of The Dalmore and reversing it, the whisky was moved from bourbon casks into Matusalem sherry butts, then returned to first-fill ex-bourbon casks for more than five years before bottling.

The Dalmore Decades 1967

The Dalmore Decades 1995

53 Year Old | 42.5% VOL

25 Year Old | 42.5% VOL

Clementine / Coffee / Muscovado

Red berries / Nectarine / Pecan pie

Madeira, Marsala, cabernet sauvignon, small-batch bourbon and Matusalem oloroso sherry. I was inspired by my first years working at Whyte & Mackay when blended whiskies were – and still are – the driving force of the Scotch whisky industry. I wanted to try blending the individual component parts of The Dalmore, with each finish coming together in a loving way. From there, we went on to create The Dalmore Quintessence with its different wine finishes, followed by The Dalmore 15 Year Old with its three different sherry finishes. All these finishes bring that extra level of luxury for which The Dalmore is renowned.

Laid down in 1967, this 53-year-old single malt represents a landmark year for The Dalmore, in which the stillhouse as it stands today was created. Aged in ex-bourbon and port pipes, the spirit was then finished for two years in a Mont-Redon Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine barrique.

It was during the 90s that The Dalmore launched its iconic bell-shaped bottle, echoing the shape of the distillery’s stills. Distilled in 1995 and bottled 25 years later, this expression of The Dalmore was matured in ex-bourbon casks and finished in spectacular Tintilla de Rota port pipes.

Last year you were awarded an OBE – that must be up there as one of your proudest moments? RICHARD: I cannot describe how proud I was to be awarded that, although I’m still waiting on Her Majesty to tell me when I can receive it! But it’s not just for me; it’s for all the people I work beside. When I think back over my career, I think about all the wonderful people I have worked with, who have such similar dedication and commitment. People often ask me what’s the greatest reward I get more than anything? It’s when I see somebody picking up a glass of The Dalmore and their look of genuine love when they taste it. The eyes will tell you everything, particularly if it’s their first time trying whisky. They taste it and say: “Now I know what you mean.”

The Dalmore Decades 1979

The Dalmore Decades 2000

40 Year Old | 41.5% VOL

20 Year Old | 47% VOL

Fancy seeing The Dalmore Decades for yourself? The No. 5 Collection, featuring five bottles from The Dalmore Decades 2000 to The Dalmore Decades 1967, will be displayed in the window of The Whisky Shop’s Piccadilly boutique throughout September.

Sultanas / Maple syrup / Pineapple A tribute to the longstanding relationship between The Dalmore and González Byass, this this 40-year-old single malt spent time in a fine Matusalem oloroso sherry butt before being finished in a Graham’s 1952 port pipe – one of port’s rarest vintages.

Maraschino cherry / Dark chocolate / Liquorice The final bottle in the collection is filled with the first spirit to run off Scottish stills in the new millennium, officially witnessed three minutes after midnight. In a radical departure from the distillery’s practice, it has spent all 20 years of its life in a Matusalem oloroso sherry butt from González Byass.

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Distillery Visit

Back to Brora Reawakened after 38 years, Gavin D Smith returns to one of Scotland’s most iconic whisky distilleries.

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Distillery Visit

Originally established under the name of Clynelish, Brora has been revived after almost 40 years of silence.

Knowledge Bar Brora

Brora

Inverness

NORTH SEA

SCOT L A N D

Located in Sutherland on the north-east coast of Scotland, Brora Distillery was built in 1819 by the Marquess of Stafford, although it was known as 'Clynelish' until the opening of the new Clynelish Distillery in 1968. Prior to closing, Brora produced heavily peated spirit between 1968 and 1981 before returning to a lightly peated Highland style. Today the distillery plans on making the same styles of Brora spirit as it did in the past.

The early 1980s saw Scotch whisky making headlines for all the wrong reasons. After more than two decades of apparently relentless expansion of distilling capacity to fulfil growing demand, the scales tipped in the wrong direction and before long there was more whisky being made than there were consumers to drink it. In order to lower the level of what the press termed the ‘whisky loch,’ distilling activity was substantially reduced, with industry leader the Distillers Company Ltd closing no fewer than 21 malt distilleries during 1983 and 1985. Distilleries ‘lost’ during this period were often of genuine historical interest and one of those to close was Brora, located some 60 miles north-east of Inverness on the Sutherland coast, where the last spirit flowed on 17th March 1983. Of all the DCL plants to fall victim to the programme of closures, few were so mourned in the years to follow. ORIGINS

Brora had been established under the name of Clynelish by the 2nd Marquess of Stafford in 1819 to provide an outlet for the barley crops grown by tenants on his estate. The Marquess married Elizabeth, 19th Countess of Sutherland, and in 1833 was created Duke of Sutherland. The clan crest featured a Highland wildcat, which became the motif of the distillery.

Clynelish not only benefited from a supply of locally grown barley, but also abundant peat, while fuel was also provided by the local Brora coal mine, which had been in use since the 16th century. The Sutherland family sold Clynelish to the Lawsons in 1846, and after blenders James Ainslie & Co and John Risk acquired it during 1896, a major programme of upgrading and expansion was undertaken. John Walker & Sons Ltd bought into Clynelish during 1916, and Walker’s duly became part of the Distillers Company Ltd (DCL) in 1925. Within five years DCL owned the entire share capital of Clynelish, subsequently moving the distillery into the care of its Scottish Malt Distillers (SMD) subsidiary. However, Clynelish was silent for most of the economically troubled 1930s, only resuming production just before the outbreak of the Second World War. During the 1960s, DCL expanded and rebuilt many of its existing distilleries to cope with the increasing demand for blended Scotch whisky, and in the case of Clynelish, an entirely new modernistic plant was built during 1967 alongside the old production buildings. The new distillery was named Clynelish A, while the old plant was designated Clynelish B. ‘B’ was mothballed in August 1968, but was soon revived and renamed Brora. Between 1968 and 1981 Brora distilled

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I grew up in the village of Brora and I’m also the third generation in my family to work at the distillery… Growing up in the village we often wondered whether Brora would ever return. Stuart Bowman Brora Master Distiller

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Distillery Visit

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For most people, Brora seemed certain to remain a ‘lost’ distillery, but its pair of stills, tarnished and speckled with bird droppings, remained in situ, along with other pieces of equipment such as the feints and spirit receiver and the brass spirit safe, giving hope that one day a revival could be possible.

heavily peated spirit, due to demand from DCL’s blenders, before returning to a more typical ‘mainland’ peating level.

Restoration work on the distillery fabric and equipment was aided by the discovery of a bag of plans drawn up by the doyen of distillery architects Charles Doig of Elgin when he worked on Brora during the 19th century.

Master Blender Jim Beveridge have a ‘memory bank’ of experience from when Brora was working, and knowledge like that will eventually be lost. The only reason the stills remained in the stillhouse was because if you’d tried to take them out, there was a high risk that the stillhouse building would have collapsed. The stillhouse wall had a huge bulge in it and had been shored up for years.”

“Using a combination of the tasting notes for the original new make spirit, the exact same stills, material from the archives and more modern distilling knowledge, we have managed to A LOST DISTILLERY replicate, as closely as possible, all the equipment While the new Clynelish, equipped with six and processes used originally.” stills compared to its predecessor’s single Restoration work on the distillery fabric pair, established itself as a reliable producer and equipment was aided by the discovery of malt spirit for blending, Brora languished of a bag of plans drawn up by the doyen of in silence, though its warehouses were used to distillery architects Charles Doig of Elgin mature a range of DCL single malt brands. RETURN TO GLORY when he worked on Brora during the 19th For most people, Brora seemed certain to Brora-local Master Distiller Stewart Bowman, century. Even the ‘dramming bell’ on the remain a ‘lost’ distillery, but its pair of stills, whose father was distillery excise officer at stillhouse which used to ring twice a day to tarnished and speckled with bird droppings, the time of its 1983 closure, explains that summon workers for their entitlement of “We removed the stillhouse wall and took out the remained in situ, along with other pieces whisky is once again in working order. stills to send them 200 miles across Scotland to of equipment such as the feints and spirit According to Ewan Gunn, “We will be Alloa to be worked on by hand by Abercrombie receiver and the brass spirit safe, giving hope making three styles of Brora spirit, just as they coppersmiths. After almost 40 years of silence, that one day a revival could be possible. did in the past. We’re currently making ‘waxy’ they required some refurbishment. We then had to style, which will be the main one, but we will Meanwhile, Brora developed what is rebuild the stillhouse wall using the exact stones – also do a peatier style and an ‘earthy’ style. described by its owner Diageo, successor a meticulous process indeed. company to DCL, as “a cult legend” status We will do campaigns of peaty and earthy “Instead of a modern lauter tun, we installed from time to time as required.” among whisky aficionados, and in 2017, an exact replica of the original rake-and-gear Diageo announced that the possible was He adds that “We practise lengthy mash tun. The washbacks remained inside, but about to become certain, as Brora was to fermentations – longer than Clynelish at 90 to required replacing, and to remove these, we had be restored to working order, along with its 100 hours – which allow esters to form, giving fellow lost and lamented distillery of Port to take off the whole pagoda roof, which we did in our whisky its intense fruity character. We are Ellen on Islay. one piece, repaired it, and then placed it back. It running the stills slowly, and there is a ‘boil ball’ “Why wouldn’t you reopen Brora?” asks was quite a feat of engineering and probably one in the spirit still which allows more copper contact Diageo Senior Global Brand Ambassador of the only times a pagoda roof of this size has been and reflux, leading to lighter spirit, and although Ewan Gunn rhetorically. “It really was loved as removed in one piece like that.” we use worm tubs which usually indicate a a whisky. There had been an appetite from people Bowman adds that “The worm tubs that heavier style of spirit, we in fact run them hot, across all parts of the Diageo business for it to existed in 1983 had been removed as they were which also lends itself to a lighter style. We could happen for years. There was demand from inside in a state of disrepair. These were replaced using make up to 800,000 litres of spirit per year, and outside the company. And there was a feeling existing archive information that allowed us and we’re gradually scaling up to that.” that it had to be soon or not at all. to recreate them as closely as possible to what By next year, a biomass boiler, fuelled with “People like long-serving Johnnie Walker existed before. woodchips will be operational, providing the

Available to buy at The Whisky Shop, Brora Triptych showcases the three styles of spirit for which the distillery is known: Elusive Legacy (1972), Age of Peat (1977) and Timeless Original (1982).

site’s energy requirements, rendering it carbon neutral. The first cask of Brora was filled in May of this year, and while some of the spirit now being made is transported by road tanker for maturation in Diageo’s Central Belt warehousing complexes, a portion is filled to cask and stored on-site. Warehouse One is the most favoured location, due to its situation close to the Clyne Burn, which promotes relatively high levels of humidity. ENDURING APPEAL

Asked to account for the enduring appeal of Brora single malt, Stewart Bowman says that “During the distillery’s time of closure, the quality and rarity of its whisky was highly sought after as it began to be released as single malt. It was a quirk of fate that it happened in this way as the majority of Brora distilled was never intended to mature for as long as we have seen. There is something in that almost accidental lengthy ageing that really brings to life the Brora character and an incredible new depth is revealed. That is certainly something that captures people’s imagination.” On a personal level, Bowman explains that “I grew up in the village of Brora and I’m also the third generation in my family to work at the distillery. I have strong memories as a child playing in the distillery courtyard, so Brora has been a big part of my life for as long as I can remember. In 1983, my father wrote in an old distillery ledger ‘Commencement of Brora Distillery silent season (undetermined period).’

Growing up in the village we often wondered whether Brora would ever return.” VISITING BRORA

If you wish to see for yourself, how Brora has been brought back to life, the distillery offers an option of two tours available by advance booking. The three-hours-long ‘Brora Awakened Tour’ costs £300 per person and, in the words of Diageo, “Guests are invited to… explore the historic spirit that was almost lost to the world, and craft the Brora of today. “Glimpses of Brora’s storied past are brought into the present day through original archive materials, personal tales from distillery workers before 1983 and, to complete the immersion in Brora, tastings of Brora’s celebrated recent releases.” Costing £600 per person and lasting between four and five hours is the ‘Eras of Brora Tour.’ Diageo notes that “The past, present and future eras of Brora are explored in this engrossing day-long experience. “Guests will help craft the Brora spirit, standing side-by-side Brora’s craftspeople of today as they go about their careful work to lay down casks for maturation. Journeying through tastings of new spirit and samples distilled almost half a century before, the visit culminates with a private tasting of fleeting moments of Brora’s storied past in the Brora Triptych.” Both tours include lunch and further details can be found at www.brora.com,

where bookings may also be made. For visitors who are inspired to take away a souvenir of their time at Brora, a 39-yearold distillery exclusive single cask bottling from a refill American oak hogshead may be purchased for £8,500. For those with even deeper pockets is the aforementioned Brora Triptych, as stocked by The Whisky Shop, and costing £36,000. Interested customers can enquire at their local store. Triptych was released earlier this year and comprises three 500ml bottles, named Elusive Legacy (1972), Age of Peat (1977) and Timeless Original (1982), presented in a beautifully crafted, bespoke presentation box. As Ewan Gunn explains, “Triptych showcases the three styles of spirit for which Brora is known, and there will probably be no ‘new’ Brora for a long time as it was generally felt to get better with age.” If visiting Brora, it would be rude not to take a tour of its neighbouring 1960s usurper, Clynelish, which has recently received a major reimagination of its visitor experience, allowing for the entertaining exploration of its strong links to the Johnnie Walker family of blends. As the twin Brora gates close, the wildcat emblem of the Sutherland clan and Diageo’s northernmost distillery comes together against the backdrop of reassuringly solid stone buildings. Sadly, the Scottish wildcat is a threatened species in its native habitat, but this particular wildcat of the Highlands is very definitely off the endangered list.

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Interview

ROLE

Supermodel, actor, author, and charity ambassador: Edinburgh’s Eunice Olumide MBE does it all and more, with an unwavering commitment to social justice and sustainability along the way. PH OTOGR A P H Y: C H R I ST I NA KE R N OH A N

MODEL

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Interview

We sit down with Eunice at Edinburgh’s super-sleek Superico Bar & Lounge to chat about her home city, staying true to herself and playing her part in saving the world.

Eunice, you have accomplished many things in your career to date. How did your career evolve? I started off in fashion and have been working in the industry since I was 15, but it was really my time at university that changed the direction of my career. I studied a lot of things including metaphysics, discourse and syntax, semiotics, ideology and how we come to conclusions and form ideas. I basically realised that as a fashion model I was the face of capitalism, and that made me want to work with companies and brands that had a good ethos – who were diverse, fair trade, cooperative, or at least weren’t damaging the environment. I graduated with a master’s degree when I was 21 and decided to return to the fashion industry, but my studies really did change the course of what I wanted to do in fashion. Was that daunting? Absolutely. That time in fashion wasn’t like now where you have Muslim models like Halima Aden or plus size models. Back then, if you believed in something, you were seen as difficult to work with. I knew I was going to lose a lot of opportunities, but there’s something to be said for quality rather than quantity, and I knew there would be a minority of people that would recognise that I was being true to myself and would support me.

How did your career change from that point? The past ten or so years have involved a lot of saving the world type stuff. I started working with designers like Vivienne Westwood, and I really committed to climate revolution and diversity. One of my recent projects saw me working with the trade union Equity to create the first framework for the protection against the exploitation of models. I wrote my first book, How to Get into Fashion, which is all about sustainability, diversity and how to understand the industry, as well as things such as dealing with rejection. Have you seen a change in the fashion industry in the time you’ve been working in it? I think that there’s been a huge shift in terms of diversity. Not just in terms of ethnicity, but also in terms of social and economic backgrounds, religion and culture. And that goes for men, too. We’ve seen a lot of emphasis on men being allowed to be represented in different ways – there was a big push for the beard, whereas the typical male model look has always been quite cleanly shaven. On top of that I think there’s been huge support of curve models, as well as plus size models, which I’m really proud of. As much as we can still hold the industry to account for certain things, I would say it’s one of the leaders in diversity of any industry.

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The past ten or so years have involved a lot of saving the world type stuff. I started working with designers like Vivienne Westwood, and I really committed to climate revolution and diversity.

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Interview

What is your favourite look from today’s shoot? I loved everything! But the gold and black dress is what I would personally choose. You have many strings to your bow. Would you say you are ambitious? I’m not sure about that. I think that human beings tend to innovate out of necessity, so I think that my background, especially coming from a typical British council estate, meant that I had to be exceptional; I couldn’t just be good. I also credit my mum for being my number one inspiration; she worked three jobs when I was younger, so having a strong work ethic was instilled in me from a young age. My mum is amazing. She is the reason that I do what I do. Has your background been a motivator for how much you do for social justice? Oh yes, most definitely. My awareness of social, economic and political issues that really cause negative effects on society is from first-hand experiences, so it is imperative for me to help address the significant inequality regarding the distribution of resources on the planet as well as issues of social justice.

Tell us about some of the charities you’re currently working with. Charity is a huge part of my life, and something I’ve always been hugely committed to. I’m currently a patron for Best Beginnings who give support to new parents and their babies, as well as a global ambassador for Graduate Fashion Week, a charitable organisation that bridges the gap between education and employment. I’ve recently set up a social enterprise called the ADB Support Foundation that will work with Afro-Caribbean businesses that require funding and mentorship in order to grow, giving these businesses the tools to achieve economic stability. To fundraise for this, I’ve collaborated with fashion designer Georgia Hardringe on the gorgeous Luna dress, with part of the proceeds from every sale going towards the foundation. You’re also committed to sustainability which is a big topic for all industries right now, including fashion and whisky. With COP26 taking place in Glasgow later this year, how important is it for this topic to stay front-of-mind? I think sustainability is fundamental. It’s something that we must act on now – whether we’re ready or not. We don’t have any other option. Caring about the environment is such a crucial aspect of the world that we live in, and I really think that Scotland is in a brilliant position to be the world leader in that. The country shouldn’t shy away from it – we should go for it one hundred per cent! Scots are go-getters. We go out there and we make it happen and that’s what I love about being Scottish, as well as Nigerian-African.

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The thing I love about Edinburgh is that I could be a kid here until I was a teenager. I could climb trees, walk along the canal, climb Arthur’s Seat – I could really just be myself.

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Interview

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Caring about the environment is such a crucial aspect of the world that we live in, and I really think that Scotland is in a brilliant position to be the world leader in that.

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Interview

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I see whisky as a cultural practice; hundreds and hundreds of years have gone into refining and perfecting the process. It’s more than just a drink. In 2017, you were awarded an MBE for your contribution to the arts, broadcasting and also charity work, which you accepted after deep contemplation. Tell us about that. Yes, that was a really difficult decision to make. My automatic response was not to accept it, but then I listened to my mum’s generation and understood that it’s not just for me, it’s for all these people who have come before me and sacrificed so much. We don’t know their names because they weren’t archived, so it’s my responsibility to archive my name. I decided to donate the award to the National Museum of Scotland. It’s displayed next to a plaque which asks the person who’s looking at it to contemplate it as I contemplated it, so it’s a constant discussion. You describe yourself as a ‘wee Edinburgh lassie.’ Tell us what the city means to you. Yeah, I am! The thing I love about Edinburgh is that I could be a kid here until I was a teenager. I could climb trees, walk along the canal, climb Arthur’s Seat – I could really just be myself. Another thing I really love about Edinburgh is the city’s love for thrifting and vintage. We love buying and wearing preloved items. In nearly all other major cities I’ve been to there’s so much emphasis on buying certain types of clothes and wearing certain brands, whereas in Edinburgh you probably stand out more if you have those things because it’s not as common.

What about eating out in the city? Eating out in Edinburgh is the hardest thing in the world because everywhere is so good! You have every type of cuisine here from African to Italian, Jamaican to Chinese. I can’t choose a favourite. The city is also having a bit of a whisky revival at the moment with Holyrood Distillery opening its doors last year and the Johnnie Walker Princes Street experience following suit this year. It makes sense because of Edinburgh’s great heritage. I see whisky as a cultural practice; hundreds and hundreds of years have gone into refining and perfecting the process. It’s more than just a drink. Keep up to date with Eunice’s latest projects at www.euniceolumide.com.

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Interview

PHOTO GR A PHY: CH R ISTIN A KE R N OH A N PHOTO ASSI STA NT: CAT TH OM S ON A RT DI R ECTI ON: A V IS UA L AGE N CY

ST YLIST: A MA NDA B L AC KWO OD M A KE U P: JA K MORGA N V E N UE : S U P E R I C O BA R & LO U N GE

Lo o k 1: D re ss, Ro lan d Mouret at Jane Davi d son S ho e s, D o lc e & G abban a, Ear r i ng s, Dyr b erg /Ker n at C ovet

Lo ok 3: D ress, H u isha n Zha ng at Ja ne D avid son Ne ck l ac e a nd b ra c elet , D y rb erg/Kern at Covet

Lo o k 2: D re ss, Ede lin e Le e at Jane D avi d s on E a r rin gs, Allie B e a ds at Covet

Lo ok 4: Top, D ries Va n N oten at Ja ne D avid son Trousers , I sa b el Ma ra nt at Ja ne D avid son Ear r i ng s, Eu a n McW hir ter at Covet Lo ok 5 : D ress, D ries Va n N oten at Ja ne D avid son Ear r i ng s, Eu a n McW hir ter at Covet

Inspired by the vibrant colours and aztec shapes of South America, Superico’s stunning interior was designed by Edinburgh-based designer JA!COCO! and has been shortlisted in the 17th Annual Hospitality Design Awards.

Knowledge Bar

Photo credit: Murray Orr

¡Que super! With influences from South America, Superico is Edinburgh’s hottest new spot. The bar’s manager, Mike Lynch, talks us through the interior, menu and more. Hi Mike, what a beautiful bar. Talk to us about the inspiration behind the interior at Superico. Our owner has travelled through various parts of the Americas and wanted Superico to be a reflection of this. The bar’s interior serves as a literal expression of a South American landscape, be it sunrise or sunset, through vibrant colours and aztec shapes. Is the menu reflective of South America, too? Yes! Our cocktail menu is pretty tropical, using fruits you’d commonly associate with the continent. A lot of hard work goes on behind the scenes to make sure we’re putting out delicious, approachable and fun drinks. What are some of your favourite drinks from the menu? I’d start with a Padron Martini. Served straight from the freezer, it’s made with Roku Gin and padron pepper-infused vermouth. I’d then move on to a Ruby Tuesday – a delicious Haku Vodka and guava highball – followed by an Orkney Tropic Sour which is a coconut oil and pineapple sour made with Highland Park whisky. I’d finish with a Four Grain Manhattan – a mix of Makers Mark, sherry and Bræmble Liqueur. It's served straight from the freezer, giving it a rich and luxurious texture. They all sound absolutely delicious. What about whisky – is there a bottle in the gantry that you’re particularly excited about? I love whisky. It’s my favourite spirit to drink, and to make drinks with. Anything aged in a sherry cask is good with me, so I’d say GlenDronach 15 Year Old. For something a bit different, I’d have to go with Bramble Whisky Company’s second release – a 100% grain whisky aged in virgin American oak.

We spotted an incredible sound system and DJ booth – can we expect DJ sets in the near future? Our sound system is a belter. We have DJs playing every Friday and Saturday and when restrictions ease, I’d like to add more days like Thursday and Sunday. Talk us through the perfect night out at Superico. I’d take my wife or a few friends and we’d start off at Superico Restaurant, just a few doors down from the Bar & Lounge. Our style of food at the restaurant is great for sharing – perfect for a date night or a catch up with friends. I’d start the night by ordering a refreshing Green Apple Collins or Superico’s version of an Aperol Spritz, where the Aperol is infused with buchu leaf to give it a subtle blackcurrant flavour. Food-wise, we’d order the beef crudo and sea bream tiradito. Both are raw dishes inspired by Nikkei cuisine, which is a merge of traditional Peruvian ingredients and Japanese cuisine. We’d then move on to a Mexican-inspired beef cheek dish with mole and some potato bravas. If we still had room, we’d share the banana tart tatin with dulce de leche ice cream. Then we’d be off to the bar to work our way through the drinks list and maybe do a bit of dancing, or just find a comfortable spot to enjoy the atmosphere and good company. When can we visit? Join us anytime from Wednesday to Sunday, 4pm to 1am. Find Superico Bar & Lounge at 99 Hanover Street, Edinburgh.

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Mixing It Up

Royal rumble

Breaking boundaries: Global Brand Ambassador Rhys Wilson showcases Chivas Regal in five deliciously different serves.

A staple on the whisky shelf since the early 19th century, Chivas Regal is loved around the world for its fresh and fruity character. “Chivas Regal has a long heritage that we’re very proud of,” explains Global Brand Ambassador Rhys Wilson. “We’re lucky to be known and enjoyed in 150 countries around the world.” Chivas has a long and celebrated legacy, yes, but it’s also a whisky for the future. In his role leading the brand’s global drinks strategy, Rhys dares Chivas lovers to drink differently. “The brand ethos of community and entrepreneurship has been handed down from our founders James and John Chivas, and it’s something we hold true to this day as we strive to take that heritage forward and be a brand for the future. “We’re really looking to be a leading brand that breaks Scotch whisky convention with the drinks we champion and show how wonderfully versatile and accessible Chivas Regal can be.” For more cocktail inspiration, follow Rhys on Instagram via @rhyswilson2.0, as well as @chivasregal.

PH OTO GR A PHY: A R M A N D O FE R R A R I PH OTO ASSI STA NT: PAUL R E ICH A RT DI R ECT I ON: A V IS UA L AGE N CY

Knowledge Bar Plum it up Rhys reveals his secret recipe for the perfect Peated Plum Liqueur (see cocktail overleaf). 1. Simmer 250g of sliced plums with 500ml of water on medium heat for 15 minutes. 2. Strain the plums, making sure to squeeze out any excess juice. 3. Add 250g of caster sugar and stir until dissolved. 4. For every 100ml of plum syrup, add 15ml of peated whisky to fortify it into a liqueur.

BAC KDROP MAT E R I A L : MI R R L AS S I STA N T: J U NO C L A R KS ON F I RT H VE NU E : B ROA D S C OP E ST U DI O S

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Peated Plum Old Fashioned Chivas Regal 18 Year Old

50ml

Chivas Regal 18 Year Old

Peated Plum Liqueur

15ml

40% VOL | £59.50

Italian Bitter

10ml

BOTTLE

INGREDIENTS

GLASS

Whisky Tumbler

GARNISH

Fresh Cherry

METHOD

1. Add all ingredients into a mixing glass with ice and stir for 30 seconds. 2. Strain into a glass. 3. Add ice and garnish.

COMMENTS

Chivas 18 Year Old is a favourite dram of many people worldwide. With its 85 different flavour notes, it’s generally one that I don’t want to mess around with too much! In saying that, one of the greatest versions of a classic cocktail is an Old Fashioned with Chivas 18 Year Old. It’s a simple drink that elevates the flavour of the whisky in an amazing way.

The Peated Plum Old Fashioned was inspired by a very subtle hint of smoke that I find in Chivas 18 Year Old. I’m talking really subtle – maybe a smoked rosemary – and I wanted to play with that. My approach was to take a rich, dark fruitiness and softly accentuate it with a hint of smoke, so the end product is a fruity Old Fashioned with Chivas 18 Year Old at the forefront, and the smokiness at the back.

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

MC Highball Chivas Regal Mizunara

45ml

Chivas Regal Mizunara

Melon Eau de Vie

15ml

40% VOL | £52

Chamomile Soda

140ml

BOTTLE

INGREDIENTS

GLASS

Highball

GARNISH

White Orchid

METHOD

1. Build whisky and eau de vie in a glass before adding half the soda. 2. Add ice and stir to chill. 3. Top with remaining soda and garnish.

COMMENTS

Chivas Mizunara was created as an homage to the Japanese style of whisky. It has a delicate floral flavour profile with Chivas fruitiness at its core, followed by a wonderfully spicy Mizunara oak finish. It’s the perfect blend to be enjoyed the way the Japanese enjoy it: in a highball.

I love highballs – and more often than not I want to keep it simple with Chivas Mizunara and soda. Nevertheless, I’m always looking for innovative ways to present something unique, while staying true to the classic. The MC Highball was created to showcase the flavour profile of Chivas Mizunara. Creamy melon from the eau de vie really ramps up those cask notes while retaining spice. Chamomile is delicate and floral, complementing the elegance of the whisky, with vanilla notes that pair perfectly with the melon.

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Mixing It Up

Pine & Tings Chivas Regal Mizunara

30ml

Chivas Regal Mizunara

Blanc Vermouth

30ml

40% VOL | £52

Absinthe

1 dash

Idyll Pine Soda

140ml

BOTTLE

INGREDIENTS

GLASS

Highball

GARNISH

Rosemary

METHOD

1.Build whisky, vermouth, absinthe in a glass. 2.Add half the soda, then ice. Stir to chill. 3.Top with remaining soda and garnish.

COMMENTS

Pine & Tings is another take on a Mizunara highball, showing off a different dimension of this delicious whisky.

When we talk about floral notes in a whisky, we don’t just mean flowers like orange blossom and rose. We can also be referring to a wide variety of botanical flavours that are earthier and more herbaceous. These notes often play second fiddle to fruitier or cask-driven notes and are flavours more associated with gin or vodka drinks, but I think they’re wonderful to bring out through whisky cocktails.

This drink was born from my love of Idyll Pine Soda, created by Marcis Dzelzainis. I wanted to make a riff on that, really emphasising those earthy botanical notes, whilst allowing the delicacy of Chivas Mizunara to shine through.

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Mixing It Up

Chivas Regal 25 Year Old BOTTLE

INGREDIENTS

Chivas Regal 25 Year Old

GLASS

Whisky Tumbler

GARNISH

METHOD

Serve neat with a slice of

35ml

Chivas Regal 25 Year Old 40% VOL | £285

New York Cheesecake.

COMMENTS

The original Chivas Regal blend launched back in 1909 in New York as the world’s first luxury whisky, and still remains the pinnacle of the Chivas range. As a nod to this, I decided to pair Chivas 25 Year Old with a New York Cheescake. Both are iconic, and from a flavour standpoint, pair wonderfully together.

Buttery and creamy, with hints of vanilla, the cheesecake’s biscuit base really brings out the whisky’s rich malted barley. It can be a simple dish, but can also be presented with absolute prestige to pair perfectly with the icon of luxury spirit, Chivas 25 Year Old.

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Mixing It Up

Chivas Cosmopolitan Chivas Regal 12 Year Old

40ml

Chivas Regal 12 Year Old

Lime Juice

20ml

40% VOL | £34

Cranberry Juice

20ml

Dry Curacao

10ml

Sugar Syrup

5ml

BOTTLE

INGREDIENTS

GLASS

Coupette

GARNISH

Orange Twist

METHOD

1. Add all ingredients into a cocktail shaker. 2. Fill the shaker with ice and shake for 10 seconds. 3. Strain into a chilled glass and garnish.

COMMENTS

With this Scotch Cosmopolitan I wanted to champion the notion that cocktails are gender neutral. The idea that someone would dismiss something so delicious because it doesn’t look ‘manly’ enough is ridiculous to me! As long as it’s delicious, that’s all that matters.

Rich, fruity, and wonderfully flavourful, Chivas Regal 12 Year Old was the perfect choice for this drink, with the whisky’s Speyside core of orchard fruits shining through.

As an industry we still have a lot of work to do to show that Scotch whisky’s wonderful world of eclectic flavours is accessible to all, but we can do it if we’re welcoming and present Scotch in a way that suits many different tastes.

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

A WO R L D O F F L AV O U R

D I S COV E R W H AT W E ’ R E M A D E O F benriach.com

ISSUE

Autumn 2021

UNIQUE DIFFER ENT INTER ESTING

BUY ONLINE AT

whiskyshop.com

Flavours of fall IN THIS ISSUE

Fantastic casks

Sherry bombs

High and rye

A taste of the Med

Strides to sustainability

Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Fantastic casks Incredible whiskies from fascinating casks – make your next dram a showstopper.

➀ Glen Moray Warehouse 1 Tokaji Finish

70cl | 53.6% VOL | £74.95

Almond / Toffee / Gingerbread

→ A spectacularly sweet limited edition bottling → Matured for over 15 years in ex-bourbon casks → Finished in casks that previously held Hungarian Tokaji wine

➁ Kavalan Selection

Vinho Cask The Whisky Shop Exclusive

70cl | 57.8% VOL | £225

Milk chocolate / Caramel / Cinnamon

→ Distilled, matured and bottled at Taiwan’s award-winning Kavalan Distillery → Aged in a hand-selected fine wine barrel, only 192 bottles exist → Just look at that colour!

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➂ Starward

➄ Darkness

Ginger Beer Cask

50cl | 48% VOL | £99

Deanston 20 Year Old Palo Cortado Cask

Stem ginger / Cinnamon / Banoffee pie

50cl | 54.8% VOL | £129.95

Salted caramel / Buttered croissant / Espresso

→ Australia’s innovative Starward strikes again → Released as part of the distillery's Starward Project series of expressions → Finished in casks that previously held a local brewery's ginger beer

→ A deliciously sherried bottling of Deanston single malt → Finished in a palo cortado octave cask → Enjoy huge sherry bomb flavour

➃ Wemyss Malts

➅ Miyagikyo

Bowmore 1988 31 Year Old Candied Violets

70cl | 46% VOL | £560

Candied violets / Honey / Rosemary

→ Aged in a single sherry hogshead for over three decades → Sweet and floral, just as its name suggests → Highly limited, only 240 bottles were produced

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Apple Brandy Wood Finish

70cl | 47% VOL | £249

Pear / Honey / Cinnamon

→ A limited edition single malt finished for six months in apple brandy casks → Prior to finishing this delicious whisky, the casks held apple brandy for a minimum of 28 years → Celebrates the 100th wedding anniversary of Nikka founder Masataka Taketsuru and his wife Rita

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Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Sherry bombs Sugar, spice and everything nice… be blown away by these sherried sensations. ➀

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➀ Aberlour

A'bunadh

70cl | 61.5% VOL | £91

Dark chocolate / Praline / Spiced orange

→ A creamy single malt that has gained cult status among whisky fans → Memorably flavoursome, with an intense raisin character → Bottled at a mighty cask strength

➁ Macallan

18 Year Old Sherry Oak

70cl | 43% VOL | £295

Chocolate orange / Ginger / Cinnamon

→ Part of The Macallan's sublime Sherry Oak range → Matured in carefully selected sherry casks from Jerez → Packs plenty of spice and Christmas cake flavour

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➂ Kilchoman

➄ GlenDronach

2012 Sherry Cask The W Club Exclusive

70cl | 56% VOL | £110

15 Year Old

Dried fruits / Dark chocolate / Peat smoke

70cl | 46% VOL | £62

Treacle / Toffee / Chocolate orange

→ A single cask whisky that offers a bit of everything; from big peat notes to rich sherried flavour → Unlock some hidden smoked sweetness with a drop of water → Become a member of The W Club to get your hands on this one

→ Matured in the finest oloroso sherry and Pedro Ximénez casks → A full bodied and dynamic dram for its 15 years → Crammed with sherried spice and rich fruit cake flavours

➃ Balblair

➅ Arran

2006 #78 The W Club Exclusive

70cl | 55.8% VOL | £185

Sherry Cask

Pineapple / Pear / Carmelised sugar

Hazlenut / Pink pepper / Cherry

→ Distilled at Arran’s Lochranza Distillery → Matured for seven years in first-fill sherry hogsheads → Presented at natural cask strength; this is sure to warm up breezy beach walks

→ Big, bold and beautifully sherried, this is another W Club exclusive → Wholly matured in a first-fill sherry-seasoned Spanish oak butt → The only sherry cask release from Balblair in 2021

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70cl | 55.8% VOL | £59

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Whiskeria Autumn 2021

A taste of the Med

➀ Seignette VS Cognac

Enjoy our round-up of sun-kissed spirits while holidays are on hold.

➁ Alfred Giraud

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70cl | 40% VOL | £32

Honeysuckle / Vanilla / Orange peel

→ Named after the Seignette family who were prominent Cognac traders in 17th century France → The bottle’s elegant swan label pays tribute to their family crest → A delicious Cognac that works perfectly in cocktails or as a neat serve

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Harmonie

70cl | 46.1% VOL | £165

Buttered croissant / Raisin / Peat smoke

→ A delicious blend of peated and unpeated French malt whiskies → Combines whisky aged in XO Cognac, Limousin and American oak casks → Once married together, the whisky is finished in XO Cognac casks before bottling

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➂ Malfy Con Arancia

➄ Compass Box

Blood Orange Gin

70cl | 41% VOL | £29

The Spaniard

Orange blossom / Lemon peel / Vanilla

70cl | 43% VOL | £57

Blood orange / Almond / Raisin

→ A vibrant gin distilled with some of the finest fruits and botanicals from Sicily → Including Amalfi sun-ripened lemons and handpicked juniper → A Blood Orange Gin & Tonic will instantly transport you to the Italian summer!

→ Ready to be transported to the bodegas of Andalucia? → A stunning blend of whisky drawn from sherry and Spanish red wine casks → Named after the Spaniard who introduced Compass Box founder John Glaser to the local sherry

➃ Italicus Rosolio

➅ 1826 Negroni

di Bergamotto Liqueur

70cl | 20% VOL | £30

Handcrafted Cocktail

50cl | 28% VOL | £25

Rose / Lavender / Lemon zest

→ An Italian liqueur made from an infusion of roses, flowers and spices → Presented in a stunning bottle, it’s traditionally offered to visitors as a sign of good fortune → Combine with prosecco to create an Italicus Spritz

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Bitter orange / Liquorice root / Cherry

→ The iconic Negroni cocktail captured in a bottle → Created in Florence in 1919 when Camillo Negroni ordered an Americano made with gin → Stir over ice, zest with orange peel and pretend you’re in Tuscany

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Whiskeria Autumn 2021

High and rye The best from the west! The spice from these ryes will see you through chillier nights.

➀ High West Whiskey Rendezvous Rye

70cl | 46% VOL | £73.95

Cinnamon / Allspice / Candied fruit

→ Hailing from Utah, this is High West Distillery’s flagship blend → A blend of older rye whiskeys, ranging from five to 18 years → The perfect base for a spectacular Manhattan cocktail

➁ Jack Daniel's

Single Barrel Rye

70cl | 45% VOL | £55

Vanilla / Clove / Honey

→ Jack Daniel’s first new rye mash bill in over 150 years → Made using 70% rye giving ripe fruit, spice and toasted wood flavours → Each bottle bears the identity of its unique single barrel

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➂ Woodford Reserve

➄ Michter's Rye

Rye

70cl | 45.2% VOL | £59

70cl | 42.4% VOL | £61

Pear / Tobacco / Black Pepper

Orange zest / Butterscotch / Black pepper

→ A small batch, pre-prohibition style rye whiskey → Produced using a mash bill of 53% rye → A rye whiskey that packs in plenty of spice!

→ A Kentucky rye packed to the brim with spice, citrus and caramel → Made from rye grain that is sheared to maximise the extraction of flavour → Each bottle of this small batch rye comes from a single barrel

➃ Sazerac Rye

➅ WhistlePig Boss Hog VII

70cl | 45% VOL | £52

Magellan's Atlantic

70cl | 52.6% VOL | £595

Vanilla / Pepper / Orange zest

→ Named after the Sazerac Coffee House in New Orleans → Symbolises the history of rye whiskey in this vibrant US city → Seriously delicious served in a Manhattan

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Maple syrup / Maraschino cherry / Fruit cake

→ The seventh release in the WhistlePig series; could this be the boss of all Boss Hogs? → Aged for 17 years in American oak, before a finish in Spanish oak and South American teakwood → A fitting celebration of the first recorded circumnavigation of the globe by Magellan

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Whiskeria Autumn 2021

➀ Glengoyne

Strides to sustainability

18 Year Old

70cl | 43% VOL | £114.99

→ Based in Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park, the distillery operates its own wetlands facility → Reed beds filter 100 per cent of the distillery’s waste liquid, reintroducing it into nearby water sources → Its new-look packaging is also fully recyclable and locally sourced

Green plans from great drams. Stock up on these ahead of COP26. ➀

Marzipan / Cocoa / Seville marmalade

➁ That Boutique-y Rye Company Belgrove 4 Year Old Rye Australia Series

50cl | 49.8% VOL | £139.95

Pineapple / Pepper / Honey

→ An exceptional Boutique-y bottling from innovative Belgrove Distillery in Tasmania → Produced in the world’s first—and only—biodiesel still, fuelled by waste from a local fish and chip fryer → The grain is malted in a reclaimed tumble dryer and milled in an old meat mincer

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➂ Talisker

➄ Bowmore

Skye

70cl | 45.8% VOL | £45

15 Year Old

Apple pie / Peated smoke / Nutmeg

70cl | 43% VOL | £67

Dark chocolate / Mango / Raisin

→ Made by the sea on Skye, the world’s oceans are important to this island malt → Partnering with environmental organisation, Parley, Talisker aim to ‘rewild’ the planet’s seas → Their first objective is to preserve 100 million square meters of marine ecosystems by 2023

→ Since 1984, Bowmore has used a heat recovery system to malt its barley → Hot air rolling off the stills is piped to the malting floor during the heating process → The system also heats the local community pool, located in an old distillery warehouse

➃ Bruichladdich

➅ Glenmorangie

The Classic Laddie Scottish Barley

70cl | 50% VOL | £52

Vanilla / Malted biscuit / Honey

→ Islay-based Bruichladdich intends to de-carbonise its operations by 2025 → The distillery has already implemented a boiler system that emits no greenhouse gasses or pollutants → It has set aside land to research sustainable agriculture and has plans to operate entirely from Islay

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Nectar d'Or

70cl | 46% VOL | £65

Vanilla custard / Gingerbread / Honey

→ Glenmorangie Distillery lies on the shores of the Dornoch Firth, in the far north of Scotland → The distillery works with Heriot-Watt University to preserve wildlife in the area → The partnership aims to restore long-lost oyster reefs to the Firth and enhance biodiversity

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Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Customer Favourites Light / Floral

12 Year Old

70cl | 46% VOL | £52

12 Year Old

Sultanas / Honey / Apple

Matured in American oak, ex-bourbon and double-fired American oak casks, this 12-year-old whisky has an elegant complexity and warmth – the defining expression of Balblair Distillery.

➂ Balblair

15 Year Old

70cl | 46% VOL | £80

➀ Fettercairn 70cl | 40% VOL | £47

➁ Balblair

Apple / Dates / Caramel

An older sibling to Balblair 12 Year Old, this whisky perfectly balances unique distillery character with smoothness of age, thanks to a flavour profile of tropical fruits and a texture of melted chocolate. Gorgeous.

Nectarine / Ginger / Pear

Hailing from the village of the same name, this whisky is a masterclass in fruity Highland flavour – perfectly embodying Fettercairn’s exotic fruit-driven character. It has been matured in American oak ex-bourbon for its full 12 years in cask. Simply delicious. “Fresh and fruity, with lashings of tropical mango, papaya and pineapple. Bourbon casks bring a vanilla sweetness to this delicious dram.”

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→ Jeremy, The Whisky Shop Paris

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➃ anCnoc

➆ Bunnahabhain 12 Year Old

12 Year Old

70cl | 40% VOL | £38

Banana / Butterscotch / Custard

70cl | 46.3% VOL | £47

Dried fruit / Honey / Chestnut

Produced at Knockdhu Distillery in the Highlands and matured in a combination of second-fill American oak, ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks, this is an award-winning expression that should sit proudly on your spirits shelf.

Bunnahabhain's whiskies are quite distinct from other single malts of the Islay region, in that the majority are produced with unpeated malted barley. Toast the versatility of Islay with this superb 12-year-old expression that showcases Bunnahabhain's ‘fruit and nut’ signature style.

➄ Loch Lomond

➇ Auchroisk

14 Year Old

70cl | 46% VOL | £55

10 Year Old

Green apple / Grapefruit / Vanilla

Matured in American oak and finished in lightly toasted French oak from the Limousin region for up to 12 months, Loch Lomond 14 Year Old delivers the unmistakeable fruit character found in the distillery's single malt.

➅ Glen Moray Heather / Honey / Fudge

A Speyside single malt from the Cairngorms, this expression is aged in the finest American oak barrels, specially selected to emphasise the whisky’s smooth character. It is a whisky that is celebrated for its long and mellow finish.

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Orange zest / Cut grass / Roasted nuts

A special whisky due to being the only official bottling of Auchroisk Distilllery. This 10-year-old expression is part of Diageo’s Flora & Fauna series – an ode to superb single malts from lesserknown distilleries which normally provide liquid for blends.

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18 Year Old

70cl | 47.2% VOL | £85

70cl | 43% VOL | £48

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Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Customer Favourites Rich / Sweet

The Twelve

70cl | 46% VOL | £50

10 Year Old

Honey / Maraschino cherries / Cocoa

Part of the refreshed core line-up from Benriach, this new recipe brings intensified notes of baked fruits and a rich smoothness, thanks to time spent in a combination of sherry casks, bourbon barrels and port pipes under the expert care of Master Blender Rachel Barrie.

➂ The Glenrothes 12 Year Old

70cl | 40% VOL | £45

➀ Arran

70cl | 46% VOL | £45

➁ The BenRiach

Vanilla / Cinnamon / Orange zest

Part of the Soleo Collection from The Glenrothes Distillery in Speyside, this 12-year-old single malt is described as the hero of the range and is matured entirely in sherry-seasoned oak casks. Bottled at 40% VOL, this is both an easy-drinking and delicious dram.

Apple / Cinnamon / Digestive biscuits

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An award-winning whisky that captures the fresh and unique style of this island distillery. A worthy addition to your whisky cabinet, this expression offers a fantastic introduction to the flavours of Arran. “Pastel de nata and playdough on the nose. A juicy palate of apples and pears leads to caramel in the finish, with plenty of warming spice. Seriously drinkable.” → Rhona, Whiskeria Producer

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➃ Old Pulteney

➆ The Dalmore

15 Year Old

70cl | 46% VOL | £75

15 Year Old

70cl | 40% VOL | £79.95

Honey / Salted caramel / Fruitcake

Terry's Chocolate Orange / Fruitcake / Sherry

An incredibly balanced single malt that has spent time in American oak ex-bourbon casks and finished in Spanish oak. Spice and sweetness combine with the refreshing coastal notes expected from this seaside distillery to create a delicious dram.

An older sibling to The Dalmore 12 Year Old, this expression has been matured for 15 years in a trio of ex-sherry casks, as well as ex-bourbon barrels. It offers all of the sweetness and spice expected of The Dalmore.

➄ The Dalmore

➇ Blair Athol

12 Year Old

70cl | 40% VOL | £56.95

12 Year Old

70cl | 43% VOL | £52

Cocoa / Marmalade / Milk chocolate

Walnut / Cinnamon / Fruitcake

This single malt is a Highland triumph: full-bodied, thick and sweet. A popular dram, known for its long and spicy finish, and a beautifully rich expression for its 12 years of age.

Established in 1798, Blair Athol is one of Scotland’s oldest working distilleries and is famed for producing the signature malt for Bell’s blend. A delicious dram, this is one of only a few official bottlings ever released from the distillery.

➅ Benrinnes

➈ Loch Lomond

15 Year Old

70cl | 43% VOL | £52

18 Year Old

70cl | 46% VOL | £78

Toffee apple / Sherry / Malted biscuit

This 15-year-old Speyside single malt packs in plenty of body and character. It is another bottling from Diageo’s Flora & Fauna series, highlighting the versatility of distilleries producing liquid for blends.

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Apple / Honey / Tobacco

Matured in the finest oak barrels chosen by the distillery's former master cooper, Tommy Wallace, time has allowed this 18-year-old Highland malt to take on the sweeter character of the wood, while a subtle hint of peat and smoke ensures a balanced finish.

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Whiskeria Autumn 2021

➁ Oban

Customer Favourites Rich / Sweet

Distillers Edition

70cl | 43% VOL | £79

A distillery renowned for its innovation, each expression of Oban Distillers Edition undergoes double maturation in casks that have previously held a fortified wine. This edition has been finished in a montilla fino cask – a rare type of finish and a complete treat!

➂ Glenfiddich Project XX

70cl | 47% VOL | £50

➀ The GlenDronach

18 Year Old Allardice

70cl | 46% VOL | £115

Milk chocolate / Sea salt / Christmas cake

Cinnamon / Almond / Pear drops

The result of one of the most ambitious malt experiments undertaken by Glenfiddich, bringing together 20 whisky experts from around the world and combining each of their selected Glenfiddich casks. The result is something spectacular.

Stewed fruit / Walnut / Cherry

An ode to James Allardice who founded the distillery and produced the very first drops of “guid Glendronach,” this expression has been matured in the finest oloroso sherry casks. Rich and dark, it offers remarkable depth of flavour. “My go-to dram for a celebration or just cheering up a chilly autumn evening. Sticky, fruity and richly spiced, this is the dream whisky for a sweet tooth.” → Lynsey, The Whisky Shop Edinburgh Waverley Mall

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➃ Glen Moray

➆ Benromach

15 Year Old

10 Year Old

70cl | 40% VOL | £55

Dark chocolate / Sherry / Fudge

70cl | 43% VOL | £41.95

Green apple / Toffee / Black cherry

Unquestionably Speyside in character, this expression showcases a carefully matured, complex and well-rounded whisky, aged in a combination of sherry and American oak casks, and influenced by Elgin’s unique climate.

Produced at the family-owned distillery in Forres and aged for a decade in first-fill bourbon and sherry casks, Benromach 10 Year Old is a dram that is unmistakably Speyside in flavour. It is the proud winner of multiple gold awards.

➄ Highland Park

➇ The GlenDronach

18 Year Old Viking Pride

70cl | 43% VOL | £110

12 Year Old

Fruit salad / Cinnamon / Allspice

Named ‘Best Spirit in the World’ in the Spirit Journal on two separate occasions, this 18-year-old offers the perfect balance of harmony, complexity and refinement. A consistently excellent malt from Orkney's Highland Park Distillery.

70cl | 43% VOL | £51.95

Marmalade / Sherry / Raisins

An award-winning expression from the distillery famous for its richly sherried offering – this 12-year-old is a firm favourite amongst our customers. Matured in both Pedro Ximénez and oloroso sherry casks, this expression offers an indulgent portfolio of flavours.

➅ Glen Scotia Victoriana

70cl | 54.2% VOL | £73

Creme brûlée / Cocoa / Caramel

Inspired by the whiskies produced at Glen Scotia Distillery in the Victorian times, this expression has been relaunched at a slightly higher strength to better reflect how historic expressions of this era would have tasted. Delicious!

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Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Customer Favourites Smoky ➀ Talisker

Port Ruighe

70cl | 45.8% VOL | £55

Cocoa / Plum / Spicy pepper

Rich and fruity, Talisker has taken its Isle of Skye malt and finished it in ruby port casks to achieve this delicious dram. 'Port Ruighe' (pronounced 'Portree') is the Gaelic spelling of the once bustling trading port on Skye. “Matured in port casks, Talisker's signature peat combines with notes of dark fruits to create a deep and moody dram that is full of flavour. One to sip late into the evening.” → Andy, The Whisky Shop Edinburgh Victoria Street

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➁ Ailsa Bay

➃ Jura

1.2

70cl | 48.9% VOL | £60

18 Year Old

Vanilla / Shortbread / Campfire ember

Ailsa Bay 1.2 has undergone the distillery’s signature micro-maturation process – rapid maturation in ex-bourbon casks before ageing in virgin American oak casks for several years – achieving a single malt that’s even sweeter and smokier than its predecessor. Beautiful.

➂ Balvenie

The Week of Peat 14 Year Old

70cl | 48.3% VOL | £65

Peat smoke / Butterscotch / Honey

The second release in The Balvenie Stories series, this expression was created by Distillery Manager Ian Millar who was inspired by a trip to Islay. For one week each year, Balvenie distills peated malt, introducing fragrant notes of smoke to the distillery’s classic Speyside character.

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70cl | 44% VOL | £75

Dark chocolate / Coffee / Blackcurrant jam

Matured for 18 years in American white oak ex-bourbon barrels and enriched by Premier Grand Cru Classé red wine barriques, this expertly crafted single malt is a unique island whisky that has truly come of age.

➄ Caol Ila

Distillers Edition

70cl | 43% VOL | £75

Malted biscuit / Peat smoke / Cinnamon

A sweeter expression from the Islay distillery due to time spent in moscatel casks at the end of its maturation process. The result is a delicious layer of sweetness and dried fruits on top of classic Caol Ila peat smoke.

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Whiskeria Autumn 2021

Customer Favourites International Japanese Harmony

70cl | 40% VOL | £75

Almond / Currant jam / Dark chocolate

Triple distilled at Northern Ireland's Bushmills Distillery, this 16-year-old Irish single malt has been matured in oloroso sherry casks and bourbon-seasoned casks for just over 15 years, before being finished in port pipes for nine months to impart sweet, jammy flavours.

➂ Green Spot Vanilla / Papaya / Chocolate

Produced at Midleton Distillery in Ireland and comprised of pot still whiskeys aged between seven and ten years old, this whiskey was once only available to buy at one grocery store in Dublin. It is now a whiskey held to high acclaim across the world – and rightly so!

Vanilla / Sandalwood / Black pepper

A blended whisky from House of Suntory that brings to life the harmony of Japanese nature and craftmanship. Grain whisky from Chita combines with malt whisky from Yamazaki and Hakushu to create a delicate and well-balanced expression that is both subtle and complex. “More than just a striking bottle; this is a whisky that offers balance and versatility. Enjoy its light, approachable fruit sweetness straight up or in a highball.” → Neil, Whisky Specialist

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16 Year Old

70cl | 40% VOL | £46

➀ Hibiki

70cl | 43% VOL | £79

➁ Bushmills

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➃ Maker’s 46 70cl | 47% VOL | £45

➆ Roe & Co 70cl | 45% VOL | £35

Nutmeg / Mulled wine / Caramel

Pear drops / Allspice / Vanilla

Filled into a barrel partly made of seared French oak staves, this stunning Kentucky bourbon packs plenty of spice and is named after the final recipe chosen by its creators – recipe number 46.

Developed by Diageo Master Blender Caroline Martin, this is a whiskey that can be enjoyed neat or hold its own in a cocktail. A tasty blend of malt and grain from various distilleries across Ireland, this expression has been matured predominantly in first-fill bourbon casks.

➄ Bulleit Bourbon

➇ Tullamore D.E.W.

10 Year Old

70cl | 45.6% VOL | £49

14 Year Old

70cl | 41.3% VOL | £57

Apricot / Vanilla / Cinnamon

A top-notch Kentucky bourbon that has spent a decade in oak. With a mash bill of 68% corn, 28% rye and 4% malted barley, this is the go-to bourbon for a rich balance of creaminess and spice.

A delicious dram that has been triple distilled in true Irish tradition. Aged for up to 14 years in ex-bourbon barrels, this expression was then finished for a minimum of 6 months in a range of different casks, including oloroso sherry butts, port pipes and Madeira drums.

➅ Redbreast

12 Year Old

70cl | 40% VOL | £50

Vanilla / Honey / Apple

➆ Ginger / Marzipan / Dried fruit

This 12-year-old expression is an Irish single pot still whiskey full of aroma and flavour, praised by critics worldwide. Matured in ex-bourbon barrels and oloroso sherry casks, you can thank the latter for giving this whiskey its signature Christmas cake flavour.

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Whiskeria Autumn 2021

UNIQUE DIFFER ENT INTER ESTING