Spring Whiskeria 2021 by The Whisky Shop

Spring 2021 £4.50 (where sold)

Pop art legend Sir Peter Blake on his collaboration with The Macallan + + + +

Distillery Visit: Yamazaki Mixing It Up: Bunnahabhain, Tobermory and Deanston Industry Insider: Fettercairn Expert Tasting: Bowmore 30 Year Old

The Magazine of

Whiskeria Spring 2021

A CELEBRATION OF TIME For over 240 years, Bowmore distillery has captured the essence of Islay from the shores of its remote island home - harnessing centuries of skill and tradition in every single drop. Introducing the Bowmore Timeless series: a masterpiece beautifully crafted and shaped by time that joins Bowmore’s esteemed portfolio. Combining patience and dedication with an unwavering attention to detail, the Bowmore Timeless series is a celebration of this legacy, embodying the sophisticated, fruity, smoky and sea salt character for which Bowmore Islay Single Malt is celebrated.

To celebrate the launch of Bowmore Timeless Series, Bowmore has collaborated with independent French film director and artist, Thomas Vanz, who pays homage to the artistic craft of creating Bowmore’s iconic whiskies through the medium of film and artwork.

Bowmore 27-year-old is matured in Sherry and ex-Bourbon casks for 15 years before being carefully moved into first-fill Oloroso butts for a further 12 years. It is then bottled at cask strength with an ABV of 52.7%. Showcasing the distinctive Bowmore character, this single malt offers fruity flavour combined with rich Sherry and a nod to fresh leather, tobacco and beeswax.

Ron Welsh, Master Blender, said, “With Bowmore Timeless Series, the key is the careful selection of the right casks at the right time. This enables us to determine when the spirit has reached its peak, or if it should be left longer to develop its character further. This careful balance is vital to ensuring we allow the character of our whiskies to be optimised and can therefore, promise exceptional flavour.”

This limited edition is inspired by the classic hourglass shape and housed in a distinctive black box. The bottle sits alongside an hourglass, which once turned allows nature’s gravity to release the grains of sand into the base of the hourglass, giving three precious minutes to enjoy the nose of this beautifully balanced masterpiece that has taken decades to perfect.

Please enjoy our whisky responsibly. For the facts drinkaware.co.uk

Bowmore 27-year-old is available to purchase from The Whisky Shop. www.bowmore.com

Whiskeria Spring 2021

As I See It

Step into spring The Whisky Shop Chairman Ian Bankier looks forward to sunnier days, with plenty of whisky tasting, collecting and discovery along the way.

❝ As ever, we are here

to advise, guide and entertain. Whilst mainstream social events remain eclipsed, let us supply a bit of early spring sunshine.

Every cloud… as they say. I signed off our winter edition with a message to savour and enjoy the positives. And here I go again. Except this time, we can all agree that there is an end in sight. And there is much to take out of this edition of Whiskeria. As ever, we are here to advise, guide and entertain. Whilst mainstream social events remain eclipsed, let us supply a bit of early spring sunshine. Spring’s Mixing It Up features three single malt stalwarts – Bunnahabhain, Tobermory and Deanston – in conjunction with a dine-at-home offering from leading Scottish chef, Brian Maule. Distillery Visit focusses on Yamazaki in Japan. The surge in popularity of Japanese whiskies is merited. They are gentle, absorbingly interesting and highly collectable, and I predict that their popularity will endure. Also popular is the new distillery on the remote Isle of Raasay, close to Skye. Brian Wilson educates us on the island’s history. Our online auction site is motoring along with weekly rolling sales. Why not dip in and set foot on the pathway to collecting and investing? Better still, reach into the back of your drinks cupboard and find what is lurking there. Our stores will soon be open and to put an item into auction, it’s as easy as popping in and dropping it off. No wrapping, no packing, no hassle. It’s hard to see The Macallan as anything other than the supreme leader of Scotch malts and indeed all whiskies across the world. We feature renowned artist Peter Blake’s collaboration with their latest

limited edition, which we will be stocking in stores and online. The value that can be created by a limited edition Macallan is astonishing. The distillery brings to the market exceptional offerings that are brilliantly curated. Having been associated with the Scotch whisky industry for more than 30 years, it gives me great pride and pleasure to see whiskies so revered and valued. As I see it, this is a trend that will continue without a visible end in sight.Not just Macallan, but all premier whisky distillers in the world have come to appreciate the inherent value of old age limited releases. This is a good thing, so long as the industry behaves responsibly, and we all keep a close watch out for counterfeiters and the like. And lastly, keep tasting! Don’t forget that whisky is made to be tasted and enjoyed. It would be a surreal and prosaic world if none of them were opened. The W Club’s Natalie McLaughlin gives you a guide on how to get the most out of your whisky tasting at home. Come to think about it, we will soon be tasting in the flesh – how strange? Sláinte! Ian P Bankier, Executive Chairman,

Competition

Win!

A bottle of Fettercairn’s new Warehouse 2 Batch No.001, plus a limited edition whisky print by award-winning photographer Jonathan Knowles. The first release from Fettercairn’s small batch Warehouse Collection, Warehouse 2 Batch No.001 brings together five different cask styles all filled back in 2010 and laid down to mature within the unique environment of one of the distillery’s oldest warehouses. This is a single malt Scotch with a tropical soul, packed with aromas of melon, pear, honey and vanilla, followed by creamy coffee, grapefruit, spiced apple and cinnamon on the palate. A limited edition, only 3,000 bottles exist. Win this bottle alongside a sensational capture of Fettercairn’s spirit by photographer Jonathan Knowles. Commissioned by the distillery for their Fluid Thinking campaign, this limited edition print would be a perfect finishing touch to any whisky lover’s home bar. For your chance to win, simply visit: whiskyshop.com/whiskeria-competition Competition closes Monday 17th May 2021. T&Cs apply. The winner will be contacted directly. Terms & Conditions: The winner will be selected from all entries via the link stated above by midnight on Monday 17th May 2021. The judge’s decision will be final. The competition is not open to employees of The Whisky Shop. UK entrants must be 18 years old or over to enter. International entrants must be of legal drinking age in their country of residence.

–– produced by Ascot Publishing Limited PO Box 7415 Glasgow G51 9BR –– contact enquiries@whiskyshop.com

–– commissioning editor Glenkeir Whiskies Limited –– executive producer Rhona McKeran rhona@whiskyshop.com 0141 427 2919 –– executive chairman Ian P Bankier ipb@whiskyshop.com

Industry Insider

–– feature writers Brian Wilson Charles MacLean Gavin D Smith Rhona McKeran Natalie McLaughlin Christoffer Hällström

–– creative direction a visual agency emlyn@avisualagency.com

–– product photography Subliminal Creative 01236 734923

–– feature illustration Hrafnhildur Halldorsdottir Katie Smith

–– feature photography Armando Ferrari

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Glenkeir Whiskies Limited trades as THE WHISKY SHOP. Opinions expressed in WHISKERIA are not necessarily those of Glenkeir Whiskies Limited. Statements made and opinions expressed are done so in good faith, but shall not be relied upon by the reader. This publication is the copyright of the publisher, ASCOT PUBLISHING LIMITED, and no part of it may be reproduced without their prior consent in writing. No responsibility is taken for the advertising material contained herein. © ASCOT PUBLISHING LIMITED.

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Prices effective 1 March 2021. All prices in this edition of Whiskeria are subject to change.

The Magazine of

Whiskeria Spring 2021

Contents

Spring 2021

11 22 24 28 32 36 40 46 54 67 88 90

Whiskeria Spring 2021

Contributors Charles MacLean —

Whiskeria’s resident whisky guru, Charlie has been researching and writing books on the water of life since 1981. Charlie’s bestsellers include award-winning World Whisky and Scotch Whisky: A Liquid History and his extensive knowledge on the subject led to him becoming the script advisor for Ken Loach’s 2012 film The Angels’ Share. In fact, Charlie’s whisky expertise was so hot that he landed himself the part of ‘whisky expert’ in the film – a feat he claims to be his biggest career highlight to date! Each edition we ask Charlie to try what’s new on the shelves of The Whisky Shop, and we’re sure you’ll agree that his sensational tasting notes never disappoint.

New Releases

Expert Tasting

Brian Wilson —

Gavin D Smith —

Formerly an MP, Brian held several posts during his political career, including Minister of Trade. Brian now lives on the Isle of Lewis where he pursues various business interests, notably in the energy sector. As chairman of Harris Tweed Hebrides, Brian is credited with leading the regeneration of the Harris Tweed industry. Brian’s first love is writing, and in his spare time he continues to write books and opinion pieces for national newspapers – as well as delving into the fascinating history of whisky for each edition of Whiskeria.

A Time in History

One of the world’s most prolific and respected whisky writers, Gavin is regularly published in the top magazines within the whisky scene. He’s written and co-authored more than 20 books on the subject, including A-Z of Whisky, The Secret Still, and Goodness Nose. Gavin has the envy-inducing task of scoping out the whisky industry’s new and best-loved distilleries for Whiskeria readers, visiting a new distillery each edition. With his exquisite palate and whisky credentials, Gavin is undeniably the whisky lover for the job!

DistilleryVisit

PLEASE SHARE A TULLY RESPONSIBLY. Tullamore D.E.W. Irish Whiskey is a registered brand of William Grant and Sons Irish Brands ltd.

10 Whiskeria Spring 2021

CARIBBEAN RUM CASK

New Releases Spring 2021 Reviewed by Charles MacLean Kavalan Vinho Cask The Whisky Shop Exclusive Bimber #103 The Whisky Shop Exclusive Arran 1996 #736 The Whisky Shop Exclusive Fettercairn Warehouse 2 Batch Nº.001 Loch Lomond The Open Special Edition Loch Lomond The Open Course Collection Royal St. George’s Alfred Giraud Heritage Alfred Giraud Harmonie First Editions Aultmore 2010 First Editions Ben Nevis 2011 —

Illustration: Hrafnhildur Halldorsdottir

Whiskeria Spring 2021

New Releases

Kavalan Vinho Cask The Whisky Shop Exclusive 70cl — Taiwanese Single Malt

57.8% Vol £225

Deep amber with ruby lights. Viscous, with good beading. The top notes are distinctly winey and faintly waxy, backed by some spice (the nose-feel is prickly). Water opens the nose and introduces notes of fondant and milk chocolate. A soft mouthfeel and a sweet initial taste, drying in the long, peppery finish. Water adds floral notes (rose), light citric acidity and a fragrant aftertaste. Complex and exotic.

“Fondant and milk chocolate… drying in the long, peppery finish. Complex and exotic.

I first encountered Kavalan before it was a whisky. At lunch in 2008 with Leonard Russell, Managing Director of Ian Macleod Distillers, a friend and I were asked to identify a whisky sample. It was rich, dark and delicious; we guessed it was Japanese, and around ten years old. “Good try,” said Lenny. “Actually it’s Taiwanese, and is less than three years old.” We were impressed; neither of us even knew there was a whisky distillery in Taiwan. A year later, I was asked by The Times newspaper to organise a tasting of the first release of whisky from St. George’s Distillery in Norfolk. I made two conditions: the tasting must be blind and the whiskies we were comparing should be young – the St. George’s expression was just three

years old. I brought along the Kavalan, which Lenny had given me. My panel had six whiskies to look at. I asked the panellists to describe them for the benefit of the The Times journalist, then to score each out of ten. When the whiskies were revealed and the scores averaged, Kavalan was way ahead with seven points, followed by two young Scotch blends with five points each, St. George’s with four points, then two single malts – I won’t say from which distillery! – with two points each. The newspaper gave the story half a page under the headline “Taiwanese Whisky Beats Scotch”, and it went viral. Soon afterwards, I was invited by Dr. Ian Chang, Kavalan’s Master Blender, to visit the distillery and give a talk. It transpired

that he had been advised in the production and maturation of his whisky by Dr. Jim Swan, my own mentor. We have remained firm friends ever since. The results have been sensational – expressions of Kavalan have won more gold medals in international competitions than any other whisky – and this Kavalan Vinho Cask, bottled exclusively for The Whisky Shop, is no exception. The edition is limited to just 192 bottles.

Bimber #103 The Whisky Shop Exclusive 70cl 3 Year Old English Single Malt

59.7% Vol £125

Bright pale gold in colour, with light beading. An etheric nose to start with, with baked apple and green apple skins as a top note, closely backed by fresh ground coffee, then a suggestion of tablet toffee, on a hardwood base. Young, but with no trace of immaturity. The taste starts sweet (toffee again), with a hint of salt, finishing short and leaving an aftertaste of milk chocolate.

“Baked apple… closely backed by fresh ground coffee, then a suggestion of tablet toffee.

Bimber is a micro-distillery in London’s Park Royal district. It was founded in 2015 by Dariusz Plazewski, who had learned the craft of distilling from his grandfather in Poland, and went into production in May 2016. It also produces vodka, rum and gin. The distillery takes its unusual name from the Polish word for ‘moonshine’. It is highly traditional and craft-driven. Bimber grows its barley on its own farm and has its own floor maltings, as well as using the very traditional Warminster Maltings in Wiltshire, the oldest surviving floor maltings in England. Mashing is done by hand and fermentation is in wooden washbacks (made in the company’s own cooperage) for seven days – most distilleries ferment for two or three days. Its two small stills – wash still capacity

1,000 litres, spirit still 600 litres – are direct fired by gas. The spirit is then matured and bottled on-site. Their inaugural single malt whisky (1,000 numbered bottles), named The First, was released in December 2019 and sold out in three hours. This was followed in June last year by two bottlings from ex-bourbon casks, one from quarter casks which had formerly contained peated whisky and three which had been finished in different styles of sherry casks. This limited edition bottling of Bimber, exclusive to The Whisky Shop, was drawn from an American white oak ex-bourbon cask on 13th November 2020 and is limited to just 272 bottles.

Whiskeria Spring 2021

New Releases

Arran 1996 #736 The Whisky Shop Exclusive 70cl 24 Year Old Island Single Malt

50.8% Vol £179

Deep amber with rosewood lights. A mellow nose, rich and ‘juicy’, with very light prickle. The top notes are of macerated dried fruits (including cherries, figs and crystalised angelica root), soon edging towards moist Christmas cake, with waxed-paper wrapper. Water introduces a hint of toffee and orange zest. The taste is savoury and salty, finishing short, warming and slightly mouth-cooling.

“Cherries, figs and crystalised angelica root, soon edging towards moist Christmas cake.

I spent the best years of my childhood on the Isle of Arran. Our family cottage is situated close to the sea at Kildonan, on the south coast – a parish which was once a hot bed of illicit distilling, together with its neighbouring parish, Kilmory. The district’s comparative remoteness, its fertile fields backed by rolling, peatcovered moorland, and its access by sea to the mainland markets of Ayrshire made it ideal for whisky making. ‘Arran Water’ was named second only to Glenlivet for the quality of its product. Indeed, as Gregor Adamson writes in his excellent book Arran Water: “By the early 1800s whisky was the chief commodity transported by Arran smugglers as illicit distillation grew to unprecedented levels.” In spite of its fame, there was only one licensed distillery on the island – and that only between 1825 and 1837 – at Lagg, in Kilmory parish, until Isle of Arran Distillers was founded to build a distillery at Lochranza in the northwest of the island. This was in 1995, and was the brainchild of Harold Currie, former Managing Director of Chivas Brothers and later Campbell Distillers. Although he had family connections with Arran, Mr. Currie was a Speyside distiller and determined that his malt should be more in the Speyside style – sweet and fruity – than that of its nearest neighbours in Campbeltown and Islay. These characteristics are apparent in this Arran 1996 – one of the oldest single cask expressions ever released, and exclusive to The Whisky Shop. Harold Currie died on 15th March 2016, aged 91. A week later the company announced plans to build another distillery, near the village of Lagg. It commenced production in March 2019, although its official opening, which was to be in May last year, has been delayed by the current pandemic. Lagg Distillery will produce a heavily peated style of spirit.

Fettercairn Warehouse 2 Batch Nº.001 70cl — Highland Single Malt

49.7% Vol £55

Old gold in colour and with outstanding beading, the nose is soft, with fruity top notes (honeydew melon and tinned pears), supported by vanilla fudge, on a base of toasted brioche with a suggestion of acacia honey. A smooth texture and a sweet overall taste, finishing with fresh grapefruit. Softer and more rounded at reduced strength, with a hint of ash and milk chocolate in the aftertaste.

Fettercairn is a very traditional distillery, with a coppercovered, cast iron, rake-and-plough mash tun and a unique arrangement on the two spirit stills which allows cold water to cascade down the sides of their necks in order to increase reflux and thus make for a lighter spirit character, which owner Whyte & Mackay describes as ‘tropical’. This series, launched in early 2021, is a welcome exploration of the influences of the warehouses’ micro-climates on the character of the mature whisky – a topic which the Scotch whisky industry generally ignores. Fettercairn has 14 traditional dunnage warehouses on-site – low, stone-built, slate roofed buildings with earth or cinder floors. They do not have damp-proof courses, so the atmosphere is damp, and the low elevation, thick walls and lack of windows make for a cool and even temperature all year round. Cool and damp conditions allow for slow and gentle maturation and inhibit evaporation; the ingress of water vapour keeps the volume up, but reduces the alcoholic strength more than in modern high ‘racked’ warehouses. Casks are stacked in rows known as ‘stows’, two or three high; some warehouses have a second storey, separated from the first by a wooden floor. The temperature upstairs is fractionally warmer than the ground floor, so the casks will mature their contents slightly quicker. This first release from Warehouse 2 is a mix of American and European oak casks: 40% Port pipes, 35% ex-bourbon barrels, 10% Tevasa sherry barrels, 10% Vasyma sherry butts and 5% unseasoned Vasyma barrels. The full recipe is revealed on the reverse of the carton. Another Warehouse release is planned for later this year, and the series will continue annually.

Industry Insider

“Honeydew melon and tinned pears, supported by vanilla fudge, on a base of toasted brioche.

Whiskeria Spring 2021

New Releases

Loch Lomond The Open Special Edition

Loch Lomond The Open Course Collection Royal St. George’s

70cl — Highland Single Malt

70cl 20 Year Old Highland Single Malt

46% Vol £40

Bright ginger in colour, and with a faintly gingery top note, along with baked pear and a suggestion of vanilla custard, on a slightly mineralic base. The taste is luscious and well-integrated with a creamy texture and a sweet, front-of-palate taste (maple syrup), drying lightly with a hint of peat.

50.2% Vol £160

Excellent beading, promising texture. A mellow, rounded nose, with fruity top notes of baked apple and buttery pastry, with suggestions of elderflower, almond, linseed oil and fresh oak. A smooth texture and a sweet taste (apple and melon), finishing mossy and faintly spicy (nutmeg and ginger), with toasted oak in the aftertaste.

“Faintly gingery… with baked pear and a suggestion of vanilla custard.

“Baked apple and buttery pastry, with suggestions of elderflower, almond, linseed oil and fresh oak.

In 2017, Loch Lomond Whiskies signed a five-year agreement with the Royal & Ancient Golf Club to become the official spirit of The Open golf championships. Each year since then the company has released special bottlings in collaboration with one or more golfing legends who work with Master Blender Michael Henry to create the whisky. This year’s ambassador is Colin Montgomerie OBE. In a career which spans over thirty years, Colin Montgomerie has won a record eight European Tour Order of Merit titles, seven consecutively from 1993 to 1999. He has won 31 European Tour events, the most of any British player, placing him fourth on the all-time list of golfers with most European Tour victories. He has finished runner-up on five occasions in major

championships, was inducted into the World Golf Hall of Fame in 2013, and in 2020 won the coveted Confederation of Professional Golfers’ Lifetime Achievement Award. He is no stranger to working with Michael Henry and representing Loch Lomond, having had a bottle named after him in 2019. He says: “Golf and whisky are two of our most famous exports so it’s an absolute pleasure to be part of The Open Special Edition…Working with Michael Henry once again has been an incredible experience. I know that both golfers and whisky fans will love what we’ve been able to produce.” The Open Special Edition combines spirits from both the distillery’s unique straight-neck still and traditional pot

stills. It is matured in three different cask types, then married and finished in virgin American oak casks. In July this year – pandemic-permitting – the 149th Open will be played at Royal St. George’s, on the Kent coast. To mark the occasion, Michael Henry has also created a 20-year-old limited edition expression, Loch Lomond Royal St. George’s, with whisky that was finished in speciallycommissioned casks made from English oak. The whisky bears the signature of fellow pro-golfer Darren Clarke who achieved his biggest victory at Royal St. George’s when The Open was last held there in 2011.

Whiskeria Spring 2021

New Releases

Alfred Giraud Heritage

Alfred Giraud Harmonie

70cl — French Blended Malt

46.1% Vol £139

Bright polished brass in colour. A mellow nose with a faintly mossy top note, supported by a trace of apricot jam on a base of buttery toasted brioche. The texture is smooth, the taste sweet overall, drying lightly, with brioche in centre palate, powdered ginger in the finish and a lingering herbal aftertaste.

“A trace of apricot jam on a base of buttery toasted brioche.

The Giraud family has been involved with making, maturing and blending spirits since 1873. Four generations have been cellar masters at various maisons de Cognac, and now Philippe Giraud, the fifth generation, combines the family’s expertise in Cognac with his own passion for whisky, joining his father and grandfather after working for a Scotch whisky company between 1995 and 2004. The family involves itself in every stage of production, working closely with the farmers who grow the barley, malting it themselves at the Malterie des Haute Vosges (of which they are co-owners), and distilling small batches in direct-fired Charente stills at the Distillerie de SaintPalais in the Nouvelle Aquitaine region of France.

46.1% Vol £165

Deep gold in colour. The first impression is of fruit loaf, with sultanas and walnuts. A suggestion of crème anglais behind this, and a very slight whiff of smoke. A silky texture and a sweet taste, with a lengthy finish of lingering sweet malt and peat smoke.

“A lengthy finish of lingering sweet malt and peat smoke.

The spirit spends between 12 and 20 months in a mix of ex-Cognac casks (75%), fresh French oak (17%, from the family’s own forest in Limousin) and fresh American oak (8%). These are then mixed and married for between five and seven years in long-aged Cognac casks, with a little lightly peated malt added to Harmonie. Unusually, the strength of the spirit is lowered by the annual addition of small amounts of water, based on each cask’s ageing characteristics, rather than immediately at the pre-bottling stage. The reason for this, I believe, is to prevent the whisky becoming hazy, since it is nonchill filtered. As well as producing its own malt whisky, Giraud sources malts from other French distilleries to create its blends –

both Heritage and Harmonie are described as ‘triple malts’ and are bottled in very limited quantities (23 casks for Heritage and only seven casks for Harmonie). It goes without saying that the whiskies are not ‘tinted’ with spirit caramel. These are well made whiskies, subtle and understated – indeed ‘harmonious’ describes them both well. Easy drinking.

Whiskeria Spring 2021

New Releases

First Editions Aultmore 2010 70cl 10 Year Old Speyside Single Malt

46% Vol £70

Yellow gold, with a fruity nose. Clean and fresh, led by green apple peel and baked apple, with a suggestion of vanilla custard cream biscuits. The texture is silky, the taste sweet with light lemon acidity and a medium-length finish. A drop of water introduces a trace of milk chocolate to the aftertaste.

Aultmore Distillery stands near Keith, on the edge of a remote district known as the Foggie Moss, popular with illicit distillers during the nineteenth century. Even today, the Moss exudes an air of mystery: often shrouded in mist, with ruckles of stone marking former croft houses, gaunt dead trees and rank pasture yielding to heathercovered moorland. Although the excellence of the water played a part in the choice of the site for Aultmore Distillery, the main reason for choosing the site was its proximity to the Great North of Scotland Railway, to which it was connected by a spur to the KeithBuckie line. The founder was the remarkable Alexander Edward of Forres, who had been the shooting tenant over the site for some years, renting from its owner, the Duke of Fife. In 1896 he purchased the land outright, together with a couple of farms, then sold it immediately to the AultmoreGlenlivet Distillery Company. Work began on the distillery the same year, under the direction of Charles Doig of Elgin, the leading distillery designer of the day. It went into production in 1897 and was such a success that capacity was doubled (to 200,000 gallons per annum) within a year. Blenders ranked the make ‘top class’, and as a result it was very difficult to find as a single malt, although it was popular with the locals and the Buckie fisherman, only savoured by those who knew to ask at the local inn for 'a nip of the Buckie Road'! In spite of its success, the distillery was nearly brought down by the dramatic collapse of the blending house, Pattison of Leith: Walter and Robert Pattison, both directors of Aultmore-Glenlivet Ltd, were sent to prison for fraud and embezzlement in 1899. This single cask was selected by Hunter Laing and bottled in their First Editions series, at natural strength and without chill-filtration. It is a limited edition of 354 bottles.

“Green apple peel and baked apple, with a suggestion of vanilla custard cream biscuits.

First Editions Ben Nevis 2011 70cl 9 Year Old Highland Single Malt

46% Vol £70

Bright amber in hue – with good legs. A mellow nosefeel, with light prickle to start. The first impression is of dried fruits in a waxed paper wrapper, leaning towards Newberry fruit jellies, on a base of sanded hardwood. The texture is voluptuous, the taste mid-palate – lightly sweet to start, with dry oak in the long finish. Water introduces a shake of salt.

“Dried fruits in a waxed paper wrapper… on a base of sanded hardwood.

The story of Ben Nevis Distillery over the past three decades is the story of its legendary manager, Colin Ross, who was appointed Distillery Manager in 1983 and retired in 2019. He had joined the whisky trade in 1965, aged seventeen, as a trainee manager at Strathisla Distillery in Keith, then spent twelve years as Head Brewer at Tormore Distillery before moving to Ben Nevis. I have known him for many years, and we have presented tastings together. His 54 years as a distiller gives him an invaluable insight into how the trade has changed over this time. He is also the only person I have ever met who tasted the legendary Malt Mill whisky, celebrated in Ken Loach’s film The Angels’ Share and made in a small distillery on the Lagavulin site from 1908 to 1962. “We were told that the whisky had been produced prior to the First World War but not bottled until the 1920s. I have to say it was the finest, smoothest whisky I have ever tasted.” In a recent interview he was asked what he considered to be the biggest changes he had witnessed in the industry over the past half-century. Without hesitation he said “the growth of automation over manual work” and gave many examples of the hard physical graft involved in running a distillery. “Even jobs like having to chip the scales from inside the boiler, cleaning the flues around the coal-fired stills, handling casks without the use of forklifts. Yes, the operators have considerably less manual involvement now compared to when I started in the industry.” So, were the whiskies better in those days? “In the 1970s, accountants were running the whisky businesses and we had to produce at the lowest possible cost. This meant increasing production levels, shorter fermentation times and faster distillation times, which had to be at the expense of quality.” Of course, in those days, 99 per cent of the malt whisky made went into blends; things are different today, with the increase in interest in single malts. Another single cask bottling from Hunter Laing as part of their First Editions series, this Ben Nevis sherry butt is a limited edition of 368 bottles and has been bottled at natural strength and without chill-filtration.

Whiskeria Spring 2021

News

Whisky business

Don’t call it a comeback Trump’s tariffs have got to go The Scotch whisky industry has been left reeling after a highly anticipated mini trade deal between the UK and the US amounted to nothing. There were hopes that the US would lift tariffs on imports of Scotch whisky during the final days of the Trump administration, but those duties will now stay in place while President Biden confirms his trade team. Karen Betts, Head of the Scotch Whisky Association, spoke of a deep frustration felt by the entire industry over the fact a deal was not reached. "The tariff on single malt Scotch whisky, now in place for 15 months, has caused us to lose over £450m in exports to the US, and our losses continue to mount." As whisky businesses continue to battle against the tariffs on top of an ongoing Covid-19 storm, calls have been made by senior industry figures, including GlenAllachie’s Billy Walker, for UK politicians to pursue the issue with more vigour and work with Biden’s administration to reverse some of the economic damage already done.

Japanese whisky lovers rejoice! House of Suntory have announced plans to release two new limited edition Hibiki and Yamazaki whiskies later this year, as well as the return of their much-loved 12-year-old Hakushu. One of Japan’s top whiskies, Hakushu 12 was discontinued in June 2018 after a surge in demand for Japanese whisky depleted stocks. Distilled on Mt. Kaikomagatake in the north of Japan and aged for more than a decade, Hakushu 12 is now ready for its return to the whisky shelves of Japanese whisky lovers across the world.

Distillery Visit

Whisky capital A first glimpse inside the new Johnnie Walker whisky experience in the heart of Edinburgh’s city centre has been revealed through a selection of digital renders, ahead of its opening later this year. Johnnie Walker Princes Street will feature rooftop bars with incredible views of the Edinburgh skyline, private dining areas, live event spaces and modern sensory tasting rooms. Barbara Smith, Managing Director of Diageo’s Brand Homes across Scotland, said that the images offer just a small preview of Johnnie Walker Princes Street’s eight-storey attraction – with much more to come. “As well as building a whisky visitor experience like no other, we are also creating incredible hospitality and events spaces that will become a landmark destination for people from Edinburgh, Scotland and visitors from around the world.”

Farewell for now Fèis Ìle has once again been cancelled due to the ongoing coronavirus pandemic. Organisers of the festival say they’ve been unable plan accordingly for the week-long festival, which usually takes place on Islay at the end of May. “With the current situation, we can’t plan ahead as we don’t know what the government guidelines might be,” explained the festival organisers, emphasising that keeping everyone safe is their top priority. “We also need to allow for the fact that people need to be able to make their plans to travel and stay.” Founded by locals in 1986 to celebrate the culture and heritage of Islay, Fèis Ìle has since evolved into an internationallyrenowned whisky and music festival that encompasses traditional music, ceilidhs, Gaelic lessons, guided walks and, of course, whisky tastings – with each distillery on the island hosting its own open day. We’re sure our friends on Islay will have a few tricks up their sleeve in the way of online festival events, but we certainly look forward to a warm island welcome when we’re able to return!

New beginnings on Raasay The team at Raasay Distillery have been blown away by the response to their recent job advert for a new Distillery Operator role – receiving enough applications to treble the population of the remote Hebridean island! Opened in 2017, the distillery plays an integral role to creating employment on the island and bringing in tourism. The team celebrated the release of their inaugural whisky last November, with big plans for their Isle of Raasay Single Malt later in the year. The lucky candidate picked for the Distillery Operator role will help with the production, casking, warehousing and bottling of Raasay’s spirit, all the while enjoying breathtaking views across to the Isle of Skye from the distillery stillhouse. Jealous? Not us…

A Time in History

Whiskeria Spring 2021

The W Club

Flavour of the month

With monthly virtual whisky tastings now a regular fixture in The W Club calendar, Club Manager Natalie McLaughlin shares tips on how to sample your dram like a professional. Illustration: Katie Smith

Can you remember the first time you tasted whisky? Whether it was an epiphany with a 30-year-old Macallan (lucky you!) or a rookie gulp of ‘strong stuff’ put in your hand, it’s safe to say that none of us started off as a whisky expert. Anyone can drink whisky, but to taste, explore and experience it – well, that requires a little more time and investment. And depending on your level of experience, navigating through the whisky world can either be a rewarding and educational hobby, or a bit of a daunting task. If the latter is true for you, The W Club is here to help with this handy guide to getting more out of whisky tasting, while veteran members may just pick up on a top tip they’ve yet to try. what you’ll need First things first: you’ll need whisky, and you’ll need a glass to put it in. You can use any glass you like, though we recommend a spirits glass that’s narrower at the top than the bottom. This will allow you to swirl the liquid inside your glass (without spilling any!) and concentrate the aromas on your nose for a full sensory experience. take a look Have a look at what’s in your glass by holding it up against a white piece of paper or towards the light. How would you describe the colour? Contrary to popular belief, you won’t be able to tell how old a whisky is this way, but the colour of a dram can indicate the wood it was matured in. Whisky aged in ex-bourbon barrels or new

oak tends to be pale, honey-like or golden in colour, while sherry-aged whisky is deeper and darker in hue, reminiscent of amber, mahogany, sometimes even Coca-Cola! Giving the whisky a gentle swirl around the glass, take a closer look at how trails of the spirit form on the side. These are the ‘legs’. The faster they move, the more likely the whisky is lighter and on the younger side. If they run slow and thick, this can indicate a heavier, possibly older whisky. give it a sniff First impressions count, and the importance of your nose in a whisky tasting should never be underestimated. Take it from Richard Paterson, Master Distiller at The Dalmore, whose nose is so crucial to his job that it was once insured for an eyewatering £1.6million! Without our noses, our tastebuds don’t quite do the job. To break it down scientifically, it’s said that between 75 and 95 per cent of what we perceive as taste actually results from the stimulation of olfactory receptors in the nose. So, top tip: if you have a cold, take a rain check on the whisky tasting! When nosing whisky, don’t dive straight in there – the alcohol in your glass is strong stuff! Some like to alternate nostrils, others prefer to move their glass from side to side – play around and find what works for you. When you’re ready, begin to nose gently, keeping your mouth open if you prefer. This is essentially a way to ‘taste’ the aromas, allowing them to travel to the top of both

the nose and the throat where our most sensitive receptors live. Allowing the vapours to travel from nose to mouth also softens the sharp sting of a high alcoholic strength. Use the clock face technique: tilt your glass towards your nose and imagine the round rim as a clock. The top of the glass – 12 o’clock – will allow you to explore the primary, lighter notes of a whisky. The six o’clock point at the bottom of the glass offers up deeper, secondary flavours that often go undetected upon first sniff. Don’t forget to breathe: come up for air now and then to reveal more layers of flavour in between each sniff.

❝ Anyone can drink whisky, but to taste, explore and experience it – well, that requires a little more time and investment.

Whiskeria Spring 2021

The W Club

❝ To break it down

scientifically, it’s said that between 75 and 95 per cent of what we perceive as taste actually results from the stimulation of olfactory receptors in the nose. When it comes to pinpointing the aromas you can smell, dig deep among your memories. Smell and memories are intertwined – ‘fragrant flashbacks’, if you will – and your nose acts as a detective for your brain, helping to link what you’re smelling in your glass with memories of scents from over the years: Mum’s homemade baking (pastry, custard, brown sugar), camping trips (pine, smoke, wood), Christmas growing up (Christmas pudding, raisins, ginger). The power of memories is incredible; oftentimes people who can’t stand the smell of peat are those who were given whisky as medicine in childhood! take a sip Now for the fun part: confirming what your nose has already told you. When tasting your whisky, take a small sip at a time – don’t treat it like a shot! The intention here is to enjoy and explore the flavours in your dram. A common trick is to swirl the first sip of whisky in and around your mouth for a few seconds, like mouthwash. It might look a bit silly, but this technique coats your palate with whisky, adjusting your mouth to its alcoholic strength, and prepares you for the next few sips. With the next sip, determine how the whisky feels in your mouth. As well as

flavour, our mouths are sensitive to pressure, temperature and texture – known as the mouthfeel. Is the whisky hot and spicy on your tongue? Is the texture soft and light? Or does it feel like a big punch of flavour? Now to define the flavours you can taste. Before you start scrambling for tasting notes, deciding on how sweet the whisky tastes is a good place to start. Can you detect any fruits? Smoke? Then use your bank of memories again to find more specific tasting notes, allowing your tongue to play detective for your brain this time round. Once you’ve swallowed the whisky, look out for the after-effects on your palate. The spirit might tingle on your tongue for a while, or it might disappear altogether – this is what we call the ‘finish’ of a whisky. If you’re sampling several whiskies in one sitting, it’s easy for your senses to become overwhelmed. Cleansing your palate in between sips with something neutral like dry crackers, white bread or room-temperature water is a good idea. If you have the willpower, it’s good to leave some whisky in your glass to come back to later once you’ve tried a few more whiskies. Contrast and compare! Remember: every palate is different, and we won’t all taste the same things. Most

importantly, don’t be afraid to say the ‘wrong’ thing or worry about sounding ‘fancy’ enough. If ‘honey’ comes to mind rather than ‘crème anglais’, that’s ok! practice makes perfect And by practice, of course, we mean digging into plenty of delicious drams at one of The W Club’s virtual whisky tastings! Since our digital events started in September, we’ve welcomed kindred spirits of all levels in whisky experience – beginners are not a minority! When you come along, make sure to write everything down and build up your own bank of tasting notes. And remember, while these tastings are intended for you to discover, learn, compare and contrast – the most important thing is to have fun. Our next virtual tastings are with Knockdhu Distillery and Isle of Arran Distillers. Visit whiskyshop.com/club to book tickets or to join The W Club.

Whiskeria Spring 2021

Auctions

Bid to the future

Whether you’re buying, selling, or just starting out, The Whisky Shop Auctions’ Christoffer Hällström looks ahead at what’s set to be hot this year at auction. Illustration: Katie Smith

Silent stills It’s no secret that whisky from lost distilleries proves to be some of the most sought-after within the secondary market, offering a certain romance and rarity value that simply grows as stocks deplete. While closed distilleries continue to perform well at auction overall, it’s the lesser-known silent stills that we reckon will merit longer-term value appreciation. Liquid from Littlemill, Coleburn, Mosstowie, Glen Mhor, Dallas Dhu and Imperial is worth keeping an eye out for this year. Their bottlings are more affordable and are a good entry point to collecting.

Knowledge Bar Auctions made easy With our network of shops across the UK and France, we have 22 convenient locations to drop off bottles and pick up winning lots, taking the stress out of posting and packaging your prized drams. Those who prefer to post their bottles to us can do so by sending them to either our UK or European hub, or UK customers can make use of our home collection service that picks up bottles directly from your doorstep. Whether you’re buying or selling, head to whiskyshop.com/auctions to start your journey!

Highland gem Arguably the most collectable of all Scotch whiskies, The Macallan continues to see growth in the secondary market year after year. Limited edition Macallan bottlings have become especially collectable, and a real investment opportunity. Take Macallan’s Royal Marriage 2011 bottling, for example. This was a bottle released in 2011 to celebrate Prince William and Kate Middleton’s wedding, with an original value of £150. It now sells at auction for well over £2,000!

Old Islay It’s not often you see an old Islay bottling at auction, and when you do there’s usually a big price tag attached! Bowmore is especially famous for its collectable bottles which frequently change hands for thousands of pounds. This was certainly the case with a bottle of Bowmore 1973 43 Year Old that sold at The Whisky Shop Auctions for well over £3,000 last year.

Whiskeria Spring 2021

Let's hear it for the independents Whiskies from independent bottlers remain popular at auction and it’s no surprise why. Their bottlings offer you a chance to try whisky from your favourite distilleries in a way that’s different to official releases. Single casks from independents offer a snapshot into the history of loved and lost distilleries alike. Finding something such as a Brora 14 Year Old today is only possible thanks to independent bottlers. What’s more, you can normally find an independent bottling from a closed distillery at auction for far less than you would pay for an official bottling. As the popularity of single cask and cask strength whisky continues to grow, prices are likely to rise. Now is the time to grab something like this for your collection before prices get too high.

Spring forward A Campbeltown original and the longest family-owned distillery in Scotland, Springbank is fast becoming one to watch within the whisky auction scene. It’s a distillery that has always been dearly loved by whisky enthusiasts, and now we’re seeing that same affection from investors and collectors. When it comes to Springbank, we’re predicting bigger returns on independent bottlings and new distillery releases in the secondary market this year. We certainly witnessed this with the distillery’s 26-year-old Virtual Open Day bottling at the end of last year. The whisky was released by Springbank in October with a price tag of £425 and we saw it more than double in value at The Whisky Shop Auctions just a few weeks later.

No grain, no gain It’s not all about single malt. We’re seeing real growth of grain whisky in the secondary market – in terms of availability but also with regard to the return on these bottles. What’s so great about grain whiskies is their accessibility in comparison to their malt counterparts. Last December, a buyer at The Whisky Shop Auctions got their hands on a bottle of Port Dundas 1976 42 Year Old for £370 – a fantastic price for something of that age, not to mention it being liquid from a closed distillery! Due to its age and rarity, the value of this bottle will likely appreciate in years to come.

For the love of blends Before single malt Scotch really started to gain prominence in the 1960s, there were blends! Old blends are the foundation of the single malts we know and love today and trying a few of them is a fantastic way to better understand and appreciate the flavour and history of some of your favourite single malts. The secondary market is best place to pick up old blends at incredible prices, such as a bottle of Black & White 1950s-60s which sold at The Whisky Shop Auctions for £120 last year. As well as sitting at a great price point, old blends are incredibly romantic. A ripped or torn label makes you think about the history of the bottle and the hands it’s passed through, while the liquid itself offers you the opportunity to try whisky that has been in a bottle for more than 40, 50, or 60 years! Old blends are a fantastic way to first get involved in whisky auctions.

Whiskeria Spring 2021

A Time in History

Treasure island

Romantic and remote but with a troubled past, Brian Wilson explores the history of the Isle of Raasay and the prosperity the island’s new distillery brings.

“Distillery plans revealed for tiny Hebridean island,” ran the headline in 2015 to intimate the Isle of Raasay’s whisky-producing future. The writer had fallen for a cliché since Raasay is scarcely “tiny”. Fourteen miles long, its landmass is greater than Manhattan’s. Raasay is separated from Skye by a 25-minute ferry crossing and maintains its own very distinct identity. The population can fairly be described as “tiny” – currently 160, and one in eight works for the distillery which released its first edition late last year – a Tennessee barrel matured, lightly peated spirit finished in red wine casks. That makes the Isle of Raasay Distillery a success story which the island has long been seeking. Even by Highland and Islands standards, Raasay has suffered harshly from the capricious forces of ownership and neglect. It was due an upturn in fortune which the distillery has provided. It does no harm that the operations director, Norman Gillies, has a Raasay pedigree stretching back centuries. He is committed to ensuring that “everything we send out of Raasay leaves in a bottle,” so the more labour intensive links in the chain are retained on the island. Norman also points out: “A number of our staff are university-educated island natives who moved back to work here. To me, the difference between this and other industries in the islands is that there is so much scope to learn and progress.” He himself left Raasay to graduate in civil engineering with no obvious way back. The opportunity arose when he was employed on the groundworks for the new distillery. That led to a career change, with Norman concluding that “whisky is more interesting than cement.” The creation of Raasay’s distillery fulfills a shared ambition of two Scottish entrepreneurs, Bill Dobbie and Alasdair Day. Bill’s background

is in private equity while Alasdair has a whisky lineage in the Scottish Borders. They came together in 2014, originally with the idea of creating a Borders distillery. Soon after, however, the Raasay opportunity presented itself and became the priority. For a flavour of the forces that shaped present-day Raasay, you have to go back (at least) to the early 1800s. It had been the relatively benign clan fiefdom of the MacLeods of Raasay for centuries, but the chief made the mistake of backing the Jacobites in 1745 and the islanders suffered retribution accordingly. The good life was soon resumed at the top end of the clan pyramid. When Samuel Johnson and James Boswell famously toured the Hebrides in 1773, they found hospitality of the highest order at Raasay House. “We had a dram of excellent brandy, according to the island custom, filled round. They call it a scalck. On a sideboard was served up directly, for us who had come off the sea, mutton chops and tarts, with porter, claret, mountain and punch. Then we took coffee and tea. In a little, a fiddler appeared and a little ball began.” Alas, the loyal clansfolk fared less well. In due course, the MacLeods – like many chiefsturned-proprietors – wined and dined their way into bankruptcy. In 1843, the island was sold to George Rainy, son of a Presbyterian minister from Sutherland. The chief accepted 35 thousand guineas and promptly departed for Tasmania. There is to this day a resident of that far-off island who lays claim to the title MacLeod of Raasay, solemnly upheld by the Lord Lyon King of Arms. Rainy had made his fortune in the Caribbean slave trade and in 1837 was one of the biggest beneficiaries of compensation from the British Government after slavery was abolished. Having bought Raasay and the neighbouring island of Rona, Rainey applied the talent for ruthlessness

he had developed on the sugar plantations of Guyana. Half of Raasay was given over to sheep and 12 villages cleared. Two boatloads of islanders were sent to America; another to Australia. A ban on the reproduction of children was introduced and when one islander transgressed, he was burnt out of his home. These accounts of Rainy’s tyranny emerged through evidence to the Napier Commission – set up to investigate conditions in the Highlands and Islands – when it visited Raasay in 1883. One of the witnesses to the Commission, John Gillies, was Norman’s great, great grandfather. Rainy’s successor preferred shooting deer to farming sheep, leading to further evictions. In 1911, Raasay’s lottery of private ownership took a further curious turn when the island was bought by the industrial behemoth, William Baird and Co., then the world’s largest producers of iron ore. Raasay is mineral rich and Baird’s bought it to establish an iron ore mine at the south end of the island. They built rows of cottages – which still form the main settlement of Inverarish – and commissioned a pier and railway. On the outbreak of war most of the local workers went off to fight for King and Country. The war effort needed iron ore and the Munitions Ministry sent German prisoners of war to supplement the labour force. They lived in the cottages and relationships with the islanders were good on a human level. However, Baird’s used them to undercut wages and the treatment of Raasay workers became an unlikely national cause célèbre. In 1917, a delegation from the Raasay Miners’ and Workers’ Union travelled to London to meet Winston Churchill. A truce was patched up and Baird’s departed after the war. Demand for land

Knowledge Bar Isle of Raasay Population: 160 Area: 24 square miles Highest point: Dùn Caan (1,457 feet) Meaning of name: Isle of the Roe Deer

RONA

Portree

R A A S AY Isle of Raasay Distillery

SKYE

Whiskeria Spring 2021

A Time in History

from ex-servicemen forced the government to take over estates, including Raasay, to divide them into crofts. That alone did not address the problem that has persisted ever since – the need for employment to supplement meagre earnings from working inhospitable land. For such a small community, Raasay has attracted a remarkably rich cast-list of extraordinary characters. One remembered with no fondness is a doctor from Sussex, John Green. By some mysterious process in the early 1960s, Green bought the key properties on the island from the Department of Agriculture and Fisheries for Scotland at a knock-down price. These included Raasay House, neighbouring Borodale House and the Home Farm which provided the island’s milk. It gradually became apparent that he had not the slightest intention of doing anything with these assets other than leave them to rot. The story ran and ran, particularly when Green objected to building a slipway for a car ferry on the grounds that it would spoil the view from Raasay House (which he visited only once). In the 1970s, Raasay and ‘Dr No’ became symbolic of the Highland land ownership debate which was slightly ironic since Green owned only a tiny fraction of the island – though enough to block development and, for years, deprive the islanders of a car ferry. Eventually, the Highlands and Islands Development Board bought him out in 1979. That left them with the problem – how to create employment on the island? Raasay

House was rescued from dereliction to become an outdoor centre while Borodale House was extended to become an hotel. By 2012, it had gone bust and that in turn paved the way for the Isle of Raasay Distillery. Among the new generation of small craft distilleries, Raasay’s stands out as a masterpiece. The extension of Borodale House to accommodate the distilling process is elegantly designed and the views across to the Cuillin of Skye are stunning. On top of all that, there are these precious jobs. There were 10,000 visitors in 2019 before the coronavirus pandemic struck. Norman Gillies sees it as work in progress. The first release of 7,500 bottles was pre-sold and with their own whisky to market, Norman expects export demand to rise. Along with the University of the Highlands and Islands, they are experimenting with strains of barley – Norwegian and Icelandic look most promising – to create an entirely island whisky. Isle of Raasay Gin has proved a great success: “We initially didn’t intend to produce a gin,” he says, “but people almost assume that you will – so we did.” The next milestone in May will be the launch of their signature Isle of Raasay Single Malt. It’s all good news. If you could bottle Raasay’s turbulent history, it too would be a bestseller. More than at any point in the past couple of centuries, the current chapter holds the promise of a better future.

Knowledge Bar Isle of Raasay Distillery Opened in 2017, Isle of Raasay Distillery is the first legal distillery on the island in over 150 years. Raasay’s whisky will be a lightly peated, fruity single malt, with the inaugural bottling released at the end of 2020 a sign of things to come. The first-ever legal spirit from the distillery however was Isle of Raasay Scottish Gin – a refreshing gin made with ten botanicals including rhubarb and citrus, available to buy at The Whisky Shop.

INSPIRED ON THE SHORES OF LOCH FYNE

Whiskeria Spring 2021

Industry Insider

Dunnage funk

When we join Fettercairn’s Distillery Manager Stewart Walker and Brand Specialist Andrew Lennie on Zoom, the pair are already tucking into the Highland distillery’s latest release, Warehouse 2 Batch No.001.

This is the first release from Fettercairn’s Warehouse Collection – a new series of rare and limited small batch whiskies drawn from the distillery’s 14 dunnage warehouses and each named after the warehouse that helped to shape it. The collection is the start of a journey of discovery led by Whisky Maker Gregg Glass, researching how each warehouse makes its own unique mark on the Fettercairn spirit. Intrigued, we took it upon ourselves to find out more. stewart: It’s a lovely whisky, eh? There are a lot of light fruits in it: watermelon, peaches… it’s beautiful. andy: I’m getting candied pear drops. There’s a really nice mouthfeel as well with that higher alcoholic strength. It’s undeniably Fettercairn – you can’t get away from that – but there’s so many other complex flavours that build on top of those tropical flavours. Sounds delicious! Tell us what’s gone into this first release. andy: Warehouse 2 Batch No.001 is a combination of 19 casks which were all filled with spirit in 2010, before being bottled in late 2020. We’ve got two different types of casks from cooperages in Jerez – sherry barrels from Tevasa and sherry butts from Vasyma which previously held an amoroso-style sherry. We’ve then got virgin oak barrels from Vasyma, which received a light to medium level of toasting. Using virgin oak gives you real grip and muscle in terms of flavour development – a really lovely spice

that you get from within the grains of the oak. We’ve then got bourbon barrels. We tend to focus on bourbons which have a high rye content – things like Heaven Hill or even rye whiskies themselves lend extremely well to the Fettercairn spirit. Then finally, the majority of the whisky comes from Port pipes which have previously held a tawny Port of ten years plus. With tawny Port, you get lots of red fruits, and a lovely nuttiness. These five cask styles were put together to celebrate Fettercairn’s tropical, fruity style of spirit. When I nose it, I get lots of peaches and passionfruit. The Port and the virgin oak offer a little bit of spice and a chocolatey note which reminds me of cocoa dusting on the top of a cappuccino. On the palate, there’s this lovely creamy coffee flavour that lingers and develops on throughout the whisky. Because it’s youthful, you still get lots of floral notes, peaches and pear drops from the new make spirit.

❝ With a dunnage

warehouse, the casks can breathe… It’s still the best way to mature a cask. Stewart Walker, Fettercairn Distillery Manager

What’s behind the collection’s name? stewart: At Fettercairn, we’ve got 14 unique dunnage warehouses. They’ve all got the earthen floors, low slate roofs, thick sandstone walls, and the temperature doesn’t fluctuate much between summer and winter. andy: Each release in the Warehouse Collection will be drawn from these 14 dunnage warehouses. It bases a project that Gregg Glass is working on, where he is researching the conditions of each warehouse at Fettercairn and how their conditions impact the flavour of the whisky they hold. All the whisky in this first release has come from Warehouse 2. Although all the whisky is from the same warehouse, there’s a real variety of cask types involved which I think is brilliant. Why did you choose to begin with Warehouse 2? andy: Gregg is interested in Warehouse 2 because of its consistent temperature, the humidity, but also because the door of this warehouse opens and closes more often than the rest due to having so many visitors. That’s where Gregg’s head is at – he’s interested to see what impact these subtle differences have on the end result. Warehouse 2 is also a real treasure trove of treats – it’s where a lot of the interesting stuff is kept. stewart: Warehouse 2 is one of the original warehouses at the distillery and, as Andy says, is predominately the warehouse we take all of our visitors into. It’s so historical and so old fashioned. When you take people inside you

❝ It’s difficult to

explain ‘old’ as a smell, but when you go into a dunnage warehouse like Warehouse 2, this really funky, chocolatey, old oak smell hits you. Andrew Lennie, Fettercairn Brand Specialist

Whiskeria Spring 2021

Industry Insider have to give them a moment because it’s like going back in time. Although we put a new roof on Warehouse 2 a couple of years ago, we try to keep it as it is. You can’t change a warehouse like that – it would be sacrilege if you did. Dirty, manky walls take years to perfect, like! andy: When you’re on a distillery tour at Fettercairn, there’s this striking juxtaposition of going from the workings of the distillery into Warehouse 2. It’s like stepping through the wardrobe into a different land. Suddenly it’s so peaceful and quiet. stewart: It even has its original Customs and Excise office. All the warehouses had one, and then about 25 years ago we removed them all – with the exception of Warehouse 2. Why did you leave that one? stewart: It was late on a Friday and we couldn’t be bothered taking it out! If it had been any other time apart from Friday afternoon, we probably would have taken that one out as well. andy: That tells a little story in itself. In 2010, Fettercairn began distilling seven days a week instead of five, so that would have been a time when Friday afternoon was the end of the week. stewart: It’s fantastic that we’ve still got that one left. We’re intending on taking VIP tours in there to enjoy a dram and see the whole place as it was. The Customs and Excise officer was a lovely guy – I can still picture him. He used to wander about the warehouse with a portable heater and plug it in wherever he went. He was like a red beacon at the end of the warehouse! He only lived about half a mile from the distillery, but when he cycled home it probably took him a mile! Customs and Excise officers were invariably the ones that took most of the alcohol in the first place. What’s special about dunnage warehouses? stewart: With a dunnage warehouse, the casks can breathe. Our casks are never racked more than three high. The air surrounds the whole cask, so the whisky matures more evenly. It’s still the best way to mature a cask. andy: It’s difficult to explain ‘old’ as a smell, but when you go into a dunnage warehouse like Warehouse 2, this really funky, chocolatey, old oak smell hits you. When I lead tastings with aged Fettercairn whiskies, I often describe the smell as ‘dunnage funk’ – it’s my favourite band name! It’s hard to describe, but with an old dunnage warehouse

whisky you get this leathery, old library scent… in a really nice way! stewart: Warehouse 2 has matured some fantastic whiskies. It’s home to the oldest cask at Fettercairn from the 1960s. We’ve also got a heap of Gregg Glass’ casks maturing in there; a number of beautiful casks from 100-year-old Cognac casks to new Scottish oak. There are 3,216 casks in there at the moment. andy: Does that include the ones you’ve hidden, Stewart?! stewart: We’re blessed at Fettercairn because we’ve got so many aged whiskies. You could probably cover every year from the late 60s right through to present day. They’re all very good, all different. Andy mentions funkiness, and that’s exactly what it is. andy: There’s a lovely tropical fruit note from everything: from a 4-year-old spirit right through to the really old stuff. Where does the tropical note come from? stewart: It all starts with the spirit and how it’s made. The new make spirit itself is quite palatable; it’s already got those lovely tropical fruit, floral notes – a distillery character that is derived from our unique distillation process using the cooling rings on our stills. I’m sure Andy would be able to create a lovely cocktail with our new make spirit! It’s then all about putting it into the right wood and letting it rest in the right place to enhance those lovely tropical fruit notes that we’ve already got within the spirit. Stewart, you’ve worked at Fettercairn for over 30 years. How have things changed? stewart: Although we do things differently at Fettercairn, we are still very much old fashioned. There’s a lot of human touch here. If you have machines running the stills, then I think you lose a lot of the romance in whisky making. A distiller reading a hydrometer a little bit differently to the distiller before them is what it’s all about. That’s the magic of Fettercairn and we want to keep that. When I first started 30 years ago, I was learning from guys who were here 30 years before that, so you could go back 50 years and things haven’t really changed that much. I like to think that if someone who worked at Fettercairn 50 or 60 years ago walked back into production today, they’d probably recognise it. Admittedly, alcohol was probably more available back then than it is now. If you did jobs outwith your duties, you got a dram of

new make. That was your overtime pay! I can still picture one of the guys fumbling for the step to the old boiler house. He was about 25 feet away! I remember thinking, he’s actually going in there to look after boilers that have the potential to wipe out the whole village… Can you hint at any future releases from the Warehouse Collection? stewart: For all the releases we’re keeping the natural colours, with no chill filtration. The percentage of cask types will be on the label for you to see, as well as the distillation date. It’s important to us that the transparency is there. andy: From a whisky lover’s point of view, the next few bottlings are certainly interesting. They are all focussed around casks and warehouse environments which help to amplify and accentuate our tropical, fruity distillery character. These whiskies help to tell the stories of Fettercairn and as you can see, there are so many of them – so many great little stories!

❝ Warehouse 2 is

one of the original warehouses at the distillery… When you take people inside you have to give them a moment because it’s like going back in time. Stewart Walker, Fettercairn Distillery Manager

Fettercairn is home to 14 dunnage warehouses with earthen floors, low slate roofs and thick sandstone walls, where casks are racked no more than three high.

Whiskeria Spring 2021

Distillery Visit

FORCE

Diverse, expertly crafted and inspired by nature, Gavin D Smith explores whisky making at Yamazaki Distillery, home of Japanese whisky.

N AT U R E

Whiskeria Spring 2021

Distillery Visit Japanese drinks giant Suntory makes the bold claim that its Yamazaki Distillery is “where Japanese whisky was born,” but far from being marketing hype, this is actually no more than the truth. The earliest Japanese whisky had been made during the 1870s, but the creation of a dedicated malt whisky distillery came about as a result of a fortuitous collaboration between entrepreneur Shinjiro Torii, and a remarkable chemist by the name of Masataka Taketsuru. Intent on learning how to make fine malt whisky, Taketsuru had travelled to Scotland in 1918, aged 24. At that time, he was employed by the Settsu Shuzo company, which specialised in the production of sake and shochu, and was keen to create authentic Japanese whisky. Initially, Taketsuru studied at the University of Glasgow, before gaining placements at Longmorn Distillery on Speyside, Bo'ness Distillery in West Lothian, and Campbeltown’s Hazelburn Distillery. Armed with the practical knowledge gleaned from his time in Scotland, Taketsuru returned to his homeland in 1920. He also took with him a Scottish wife, Jessie Roberta Cowan, known as Rita, whom he had married despite the opposition of both families. Back in Japan, the couple discovered that Settsu Shuzo had abandoned its plans to produce whisky due to the post-war Japanese recession, but, as luck would have it, Taketsuru was recruited by Shinjiro Torii who had founded the firm Torii Shoten in 1899 and began to produce and sell wine. In 1907 he launched Akadema Port Wine, which soon became a cornerstone of the company’s activities. However, he was fascinated with the idea of developing a uniquely Japanese whisky, and had the capital to build a distillery.

❝ Astonishingly,

more than 100 different types of malt whisky are made at Yamazaki, and this is known as ‘Tsukuriwake’ – the philosophy of ‘diversity in the making’.

creating yamazaki As House of Suntory Brand Ambassador James Bowker explains, “Torii is one of the founders of Japanese whisky. He became involved in pharmacies, where he blended different ingredients to make up remedies. “Western alcohol had a reputation for quality and strength, but at that time very few people in Japan had tried it. As a pharmacist, Torii was allowed to import western alcohol, and he got to know good whisky. He had chemical knowledge of how it was made and he knew how to blend. He was in Osaka, and historically the heart and soul of Japanese food and drink was in the region around Osaka. “Torii’s aim was to make a whisky that was authentically Japanese and not just Scotch in style. The idea was to master the processes before establishing his own take on it. To be authentic, it had to be designed specifically for the Japanese palate and culture. The Japanese palate is delicate, complex and balanced – and Torii’s whisky had to be made by Japanese people in Japan using the correct methods and no shortcuts to be truly authentic.” With Masataka Taketsuru on the payroll, Shinjiro Torii was ready to make his dream of creating Japanese whisky come true, but the two men had different ideas about where the distillery should be built. Taketsuru wanted it to be located in the far north, which was closest to Scotland in terms of climate, but with his desire to create something that would be uniquely Japanese, Torii looked elsewhere, and eventually settled on a site between his Osaka home and Kyoto. Back in the 16th century, the guru of ‘chanoyu’ – the Japanese ‘Way of Tea’ – Sen no Rikyu (1522-91) had been instructed to find the perfect location to build the emperor’s tea house. According to James Bowker, “It needed to have an abundance and diversity of nature to be acceptable to the prevailing cultural and religious beliefs, with strong representations of the different seasons to give the required diversity. Crucially, it also needed good water. “He chose Yamazaki near Osaka for the tea house and associated shrine. If it was good enough as a location for the emperor’s tea house it was surely good enough for Japan’s first whisky distillery, and it was here Torii decided to build. At Suntory, we are inspired first and foremost by nature; we work with and respect nature, and we maintain the shrine which is open to the public, as is the distillery, and you can use the famous water and some whisky to make your own Highball!”

developing the whisky Construction work on Yamazaki Distillery commenced in 1923, with the twin-still distillery opening on 11th November 1924, and in his role as Head Distiller, Masataka Taketsuru began to produce whisky firmly in the Scottish tradition. It was quite heavy, malty and peaty – and not as individualistic and quintessentially harmonious and ‘Japanese’ as Torii would have liked. In 1929 the first whisky from Yamazaki – a blend named Suntory Shirofuda (White Label) – was launched, but Torii felt it lacked some of the requisite balance, delicacy and complexity, despite his personal skill as a blender. Torii began to distil a lighter, cleaner spirit, while Taketsuru left Suntory in 1934 to establish his own distillery on the island of Hokkaido, forming the company that would become Suntory’s chief rival, Nikka. As James Bowker notes, “In 1937 Torii launched Kakubin, nicknamed Kaku, which was a blend aged for 12 years and really fulfilled his brief for a Japanese whisky. In 1950 he launched Suntory Old, aged for eight to 15 years in sherry casks, and in 1960 Suntory Royal – a collaboration with his son and the pinnacle of Suntory at the time. It was what the brand was all about, and you can see it as a precursor of the present Hibiki blend produced by Suntory.” For many whisky lovers, however, the most exciting development was the launch of Yamazaki’s first single malt (a 12-year-old) in 1984. This coincided with a period of economic growth in Japan and also marked the 60th anniversary of the first whisky being distilled at Yamazaki. According to Liam Hiller, Head of Content at specialist Japanese whisky retailer Dekanta, “The Yamazaki 12 is a ground-breaking masterpiece, which is as perfectly balanced and complex a whisky as you will find. “It was the first Japanese whisky to win an international whisky award, picking up a Gold Medal at the International Spirits Challenge in 2003. That really set the ball rolling for the Japanese whisky industry, as people around the world started to sit up and take notice of the incredible expressions being produced around Japan. In 2012, Yamazaki’s 25-year-old became the first Japanese whisky to win the accolade ‘World's Best Single Malt’ at the World Whiskies Awards.”

Knowledge Bar Yamazaki Distillery

Founded: 1923 Region: Osaka, Japan

Yamazaki Distillery

JAPAN Osaka

The original Yamazaki plant was enlarged in 1957 and again in 2013, when four more stills were added, taking the total to 16.

Tokyo

Whiskeria Spring 2021

Distillery Visit the distillery today Yamazaki has come a long way from the two-still establishment of 1923, but from the very start, stylistic flexibility was at its heart. Because Japan has had few distilleries until the last decade or so, and because reciprocal trading of spirit between rival companies did not take place, Suntory’s distilleries have always been versatile in terms of the spirit styles that can be made there. The original Yamazaki plant was enlarged in 1957 and again in 2013, when four more stills were added, taking the total to 16. What is most remarkable to those of us more used to exploring Scottish and Irish distilleries is the bewildering range of pot still shapes and sizes, as well as lyne arm and condensing configurations. Other variables include the use of differing yeast strains and peating levels, while some washbacks are wooden and others made of stainless steel. That is before you get anywhere near the variables created by the use of different types of casks! Astonishingly, more than 100 different types of malt whisky are made at Yamazaki, and this is known as ‘Tsukuriwake’ – the philosophy of ‘diversity in the making’. “The diverse characteristics of each still play an important role in producing various types of new make whiskies in a single distillery, which we aim to do,” says Suntory’s Yusuke Sasaki. He adds that “Since blenders aim for the highest quality whiskies through arranging percentages of blends to the decimal point, every component of whisky is important when making a Suntory whisky. “While a large part of the aged whiskies is blended into the Yamazaki brand portfolio, some are bottled alone in a series called the Yamazaki Single Cask, a limited edition whisky that is launched occasionally.” As James Bowker explains, “They make different styles simultaneously, in varying quantities each year, as required. There is a pineapple aroma in them all. It’s like a chef preparing all kinds of pineapple: fresh pineapple, overripe pineapple, burnt pineapple… whereas a Scottish distillery will produce one pineapple dish.

“We need balance first and foremost. You wouldn’t know it, but one of the components in Yamazaki 12 is heavily peated 19-year-old whisky from a sherry cask, to help give it complexity and a very subtle smokiness, and even the Hibiki 17-year-old blend has a very small amount of peated whisky in it.” When it comes to maturation of the various styles of Yamazaki spirit, the majority of casks used are bourbon barrels (200 litres) and hogsheads (250 litres), while red wine casks and sherry butts and puncheons are also filled. Additionally, Mizunara Japanese oak casks are constructed in-house and ageing takes place in five on-site warehouses as well as at Yamazaki’s sister Hakushu Distillery in Yamanashi and the Omi Aging Cellar in Shiga. yamazaki whiskies The principal Yamazaki portfolio comprises four single malts, namely Distiller’s Reserve, 12, 18 and 25-year-olds, though the 25-year-old is a very elusive beast. Distiller’s Reserve is an NAS expression, launched in 2014 and partially matured in Bordeaux wine casks, sherry casks and Mizunara oak casks. The 18-year-old single malt appeared in 1992, and around 80 per cent of the whisky is matured in sherry butts, while the remainder is aged in American and Mizunara casks. All four expressions are released on allocation in limited numbers, and Yusuke Sasaki notes that “Due to the recent boost in Japanese whisky demand, we have had some issues where we could not fully meet consumer demand. Although we have been making large investments in both of our distilleries, as well as our warehouses to expand our distillation and maturation capacities, whisky making requires a long time, and we feel it will require some more time for supply to recover to the original level.” One of the most remarkable recent bottlings to be released from Yamazaki Distillery is a 55-year-old, “intended to further appeal to the market and demonstrate what ageing can do to the quality of whisky. As this is the oldest age statement whisky in all Suntory whiskies, we hope that those who get the chance to taste the liquid enjoy it to the fullest.” If you are fortunate enough to get the chance to visit Yamazaki Distillery you will receive a traditionally hospitable Japanese welcome and access to the production areas, as well as the fascinating associated Whisky Museum. Alternatively, pour a glass of Yamazaki single malt and discover for yourself just what it is that makes this balanced, delicate, complex, quintessentially Japanese whisky so special.

❝ At Suntory, we are

inspired first and foremost by nature. James Bowker, Suntory Brand Ambassador

Knowledge Bar At one with nature

The Japanese feel at one with nature; their ultimate inspiration and guiding force. They believe that nameless spirits referred to as ‘eight million gods’ reside within every pebble, raindrop and seed. Japan is blessed with a vast array of natural elements: deep forests, lush greenery, steep mountains, and pure waters. These are all sources of inspiration for whisky making at Yamazaki Distillery. The ‘soul-place’ is the core source of inspiration, and for Yamazaki this is represented by water. The distillery lies in a misty valley between Mt. Tennozan and Mt. Otokoyama, where three rivers meet. The region is home to some of Japan’s purest and softest water, ideal for whisky maturation. Known as ‘shiki’, Japan’s incredible variety of seasons breathes life into Yamazaki whisky. Temperature and humidity fluctuate throughout the four seasons, influencing how the casks breathe and enriching the ageing process. The resulting whisky from Yamazaki Distillery, and House of Suntory in general, is said to embody the harmony that exists between Japanese nature and Japanese people.

Nature is a huge source of inspiration for whisky makers at Yamazaki and the distillery is surrounded by an abundance of lush greenery, steep mountains and pure waters.

Whiskeria Spring 2021

Interview

Top of the pops Pop art legend Sir Peter Blake and The Macallan’s Lead Whisky Maker Sarah Burgess come together to talk all things collage, collecting and their latest whisky collaboration.

Whiskeria Spring 2021

Interview

❝ I’ve always

been excited to have been involved with The Macallan. I suppose it’s almost as if I’m a part of The Macallan family now. Sir Peter Blake

Whiskeria Spring 2021

Interview Painter of badges and targets, hearts and stars, Sir Peter Blake is the great pioneer of British pop art, best known for his wrestlers and circus performers, brightly coloured collages, and iconic album covers for The Beatles and The Who. After growing up during the Second World War, Blake went on to study graphic design at Gravesend Technical College at just 13 years old. His natural talent won him a painting place at the Royal College of Art in 1953, and a balance of graphic art and fine art has been evident in his work ever since. Blake’s love of rock‘n’roll, movie stars and wrestling all found their way into his art, and by the late 1950s, he had established himself as the founding father of British pop art. Over six decades later, Sir Peter Blake has assumed national treasure status, and even now at the age of 88, Blake continues to work from his London studio, crammed with an extraordinary array of curiosities and artwork collected throughout his career. Describing himself as part of The Macallan family, Sir Peter Blake joins Lead Whisky Maker Sarah Burgess to discuss his 35-year relationship with the distillery, and the release of their most recent collaboration, The Anecdotes of Ages Collection. Sir Peter, you are known as the founding father of British pop art, with a career spanning over 60 years! What have been your main inspirations? sir peter: Over the years I’ve had a mix of styles, from colourful lettering to likeness drawing and collages. I guess you could say I’ve drawn what I was interested in, with my work transcending across fashion, music and evolving art movements. Your childhood through the war is said to have played a part in the work you have created. How so? sir peter: I was born in Dartford, Kent, in 1932, so when the war started in 1939, a great lump of my childhood was taken up by being evacuated twice. Looking back on everything now, this has had a psychological effect on the rest of my life and the type of work I have created. Meanwhile, Sarah, you had every whisky lover’s dream childhood of growing up in Speyside. sarah: I was born and brought up in Aberlour on Speyside, surrounded by distilleries, and whisky has always been a way of life. Until I was an adult, I assumed this is how it was for everyone! I didn’t appreciate how special it was until then.

How has growing up in Speyside shaped your whisky journey to where you are today?

Tell us about your visit to Sir Peter’s London studio. It looks like a fascinating place.

sarah: I began my career in whisky as a tour guide. Through explaining the processes involved in whisky making to visitors, my knowledge grew and after university I began to undertake senior operational roles in distilleries. Over the years, my responsibilities started to include cask quality and consistency, site management, and supporting brand activity. After moving away for various roles, I was able to return to Speyside with an enhanced appreciation for the area. Now in the role of Lead Whisky Maker for The Macallan, working in whisky is the norm for me and I can’t imagine doing anything else. Aside from whisky, my other passion in life is collecting art, and working on this inspiring collaboration with Sir Peter has allowed me to combine both.

sarah: I could have stayed for days! It’s such an interesting setting and we spent time looking at the art and collectables he has in there. He showed me many of his captivating works of art, including a collection of pieces from an exhibition called Joseph Cornell’s Holiday. These pieces were very inspiring for me, as Sir Peter was able to take the isolated life of this character and visually send him on travels through Europe. Through his art he facilitated Cornell visiting places he couldn’t travel to in his own life. This work really gave an insight to the fun and colourful side of Sir Peter. I was also delighted to discover that Sir Peter is a fellow collector of unusual items – and that we shared a fondness for collecting miniature chairs!

As an art lover, this must be a hugely exciting collaboration for you. Were you already a fan of Sir Peter ’s work? sarah: It’s been amazing to collaborate with Sir Peter – for anyone that has an interest in art, the opportunity to work with such a legendary artist is unbelievable. Before the collaboration, I was aware of Sir Peter’s long-standing relationship with The Macallan and his more mainstream work that is embedded in British pop culture.

❝ It’s clear The

Macallan has built a legacy as they’re doing things differently. Just look at the new distillery; it’s a sensational building. Sir Peter Blake

Sir Peter, you have collaborated with The Macallan before. What is the story behind this most recent collaboration? sir peter: Yes, I have. In fact, my relationship with The Macallan spans nearly four decades. The Anecdotes of Ages Collection will take the form of 13 one-of-a-kind bottles of exceptional Scotch whisky, each containing liquid that has been maturing in 1967 casks for more than 50 years. Each bottle will feature its own distinct original collage art on the label, based on unique stories about The Macallan’s legacy. sarah: This is an extraordinary collection of whisky and art; it’s a collection of stories that pay homage to the past. While the thirteenth original bottle will be kept in The Macallan archive, a highly limited edition whisky featuring a duplicate label and the same rare 1967 whisky will be released as The Anecdotes of Ages Collection: Down to Work Limited Edition, and only a few hundred bottles will be available worldwide.

Knowledge Bar An Estate, A Community, And A Distillery Whisky and art lovers who can’t get their hands on the rare bottles of The Anecdotes of Ages Collection will welcome the release of a further special single malt, created to commemorate Sir Peter Blake’s visit to The Macallan Estate. The Macallan An Estate, A Community, And A Distillery (pictured above and left) is presented in a beautiful custom box inspired by Sir Peter Blake’s art. The whisky is the colour of cinnamon, with notes of dried fruits, cracked black pepper, treacle, vanilla and a rich cacao finish. Look out for this special bottling online and in-store at The Whisky Shop. Photography by Mary McCartney.

The Anecdotes of Ages Collection is made up of 13 one-of-a-kind bottles that feature original artwork by Sir Peter Blake.

Whiskeria Spring 2021

Interview Sir Peter, what is it you admire about The Macallan? sir peter: I’ve always been excited to have been involved with The Macallan. I suppose it’s almost as if I’m a part of The Macallan family now. It’s clear The Macallan has built a legacy as they’re doing things differently. Just look at the new distillery; it’s a sensational building. Tell us about the whisky making process for The Anecdotes of Ages Collection. Did you choose the liquid together? sarah: We sampled some expressions I took with me when I visited Sir Peter at his studio in London. Then we were lucky enough to host Sir Peter at the distillery, where we were able to explore the characteristics of the whisky in more detail. Sir Peter was very respectful of the whisky making process, as I was with the creation of his art. We stayed in our own fields but took inspiration in many ways from each other and there are many similarities in our processes of development. Sarah, how were you inspired by Sir Peter to create this collection? sarah: For The Anecdotes of Ages Collection, I reviewed Sir Peter’s career and pulled out important dates that marked clear points in time that influenced his career. The year I settled on was 1967, which was a pivotal moment where Sir Peter transitioned from a key personality in the art movement into a pop culture icon. I then focussed my search on finding a single malt from that year. I wanted the whisky to show respect for both Sir Peter and The Macallan, highlighting their shared values. The whisky displays characteristics of a classic style of The Macallan, with the presence of oak and dried fruits, while elements of hazelnut and strawberry represent

the colourful character of Sir Peter, showcasing his vibrancy and passion. Not only was I truly inspired by Sir Peter’s artwork, but also him as a person – his energy and passion for learning. His genuine character and modesty are rare attributes that I really admired. His talent is phenomenal, and he humbly states he can “do a good likeness drawing.” What does it taste like?

The Macallan Estate. My creative process is like a ladder: first starting with inspiration gathering, then thoughtful consideration, and finally creation. I’ve used crowd art collage to visually represent the heritage of The Macallan’s character and legacy, bringing to life the unique stories about its history, community, and the beautiful natural landscape of the Easter Elchies Estate.

sarah: This exceptional 1967 whisky has notes of oak and fig, leading to a burst of hazelnut and strawberry. It’s a truly special single malt that finishes with complex flavours of chocolate and lightly spiced peach. It is in many ways, its own work of art.

You have a fascination with collage which is seen in a lot of your work, including your iconic album cover for The Beatles’ Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band. How did your love of collage begin?

It sounds amazing! We doubt these special bottles will be around for long...

sir peter: My love of collage first began when I shared an apartment with an artist called Richard Smith. He knew all about collages, showing me a bunch by German artist Kurt Schwitters. It was sort of a masterclass; him telling me about collages and me picking it up. I’ve never looked back.

sarah: Whisky lovers will also welcome the release of a further special single malt, created to commemorate Sir Peter’s visit to The Macallan Estate. The bottling, named An Estate, A Community, And A Distillery, is presented in a beautiful custom box inspired by Sir Peter’s art. The whisky is the colour of cinnamon, with notes of dried fruits, cracked black pepper, treacle, vanilla and a rich cacao finish. Sir Peter, tell us about your artwork for The Anecdotes of Ages Collection. sir peter: It’s been quite fascinating being able to watch Sarah and the team at The Macallan work, because it was as mysterious as me making a collage! Sarah would have a range of little bottles and mix about five of them before tasting. Then she’d add something else, and taste that. Sarah was just like an artist making a collage. I took those stories and began to map out my own journey to create these works of art, using the memories of my exploration around

Sir Peter, it sounds like you don’t stop working. What’s next? sir peter: I’d say I’m now at the end of my career. I think more or less anyone I would want to paint, I have. So, in a curious way, I have stepped into freedom! Look out for The Macallan An Estate, A Community, And A Distillery online and in-store at The Whisky Shop.

Knowledge Bar Sir Peter Blake's art Sir Peter Blake’s most famous works are arguably his album cover design for The Beatles’ Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band (1967), as well as his paintings On the Balcony (1955) and Self Portrait with Badges (1962), which marked his transition into pop art. Some of his most recent work includes a commission by Tate Liverpool in 2015 to transform a Mersey Ferry into a moving artwork. Named Everybody Razzle Dazzle and featuring his signature stars and targets, Blake’s design paid homage to dazzle camouflage and the role of Mersey Ferries during the First World War. Unlike other forms of camouflage, dazzle painting was used not to conceal a ship, but instead to baffle the enemy with its decoration, making it difficult to estimate the ship’s range, speed and direction.

❝ The whisky displays

characteristics of a classic style of The Macallan… while elements of hazelnut and strawberry represent the colourful character of Sir Peter. Sarah Burgess, The Macallan Lead Whisky Maker

Clockwise from top: Sir Peter Blake and Lead Whisky Maker Sarah Burgess share a dram at the artist's studio in London; Sarah Burgess samples whiskies during the selection process for The Anecdotes of Ages Collection; Sir Peter Blake visits The Macallan Estate.

Whiskeria Spring 2021

Mixing It Up

There’s your supper

Taking inspiration from Scotland’s natural larder, Distell’s Scott Grierson and leading Scottish chef Brian Maule have teamed up to create a five-course feast, paired with whisky drinks from Distell’s portfolio of delicious single malts. Photography: Armando Ferrari

Fire up the oven, light a candle and look out your best glassware: Brian Maule of Glasgow’s Le Chardon d’Or has created a five-course masterpiece to be enjoyed at home while pandemic restrictions continue. Crafted with the best of Scotland’s produce, the menu takes you on a flavour journey across land and sea, and perfectly matched with each course is a whisky drink from the distilleries of Bunnahabhain, Tobermory and Deanston, curated by Scott Grierson of Distell. Variations of Brian’s dine-at-home menu are available to order now from brianmaule.com and the drinks have been designed to be easily recreated in your kitchen, so you can enjoy the full experience of ‘dining out’ from the comfort of your home.

❝ My name is

above the door, so my guests have a right to expect me in the kitchen.

Knowledge Bar The whiskies

Paired with each dish is a drink using the whiskies of Bunnahabhain, Tobermory and Deanston; each distillery with its own character and style. Bunnahabhain is Distell’s Islay-based distillery, known for its unpeated whiskies – a unique point of difference on an island famous for its peated malts. The menu features the distillery’s signature style Bunnahabhain 12 Year Old and its peated Toiteach A Dhà. Tobermory is the oldest distillery in the company’s portfolio, set up by a local merchant on the Isle of Mull in 1798. A ‘boutique’ distillery, it produces small batch releases that are inspired by the island’s colourful harbour and vibrant community of artists. The menu features the distillery’s Tobermory 23 Year Old, as well as its peated Ledaig 18 Year Old. Deanston Distillery resides within a retired cotton mill on the banks of the River Teith and is the only distillery in Scotland to be hydropowered. Its production processes pay homage to the craftsmanship and community spirit established by the cotton mill before it. Finishing on a high, the menu pairs Deanston 18 Year Old with dessert. Shop each of these whiskies online at whiskyshop.com – currently on offer for a limited time.

Knowledge Bar Brian Maule

Brian Maule pursued his passion for cooking when he left his Ayrshire hometown at a young age to travel to Lyon, the culinary capital of France. There he worked and trained with some of the country’s most respected chefs, attracting the attention of Michel Roux Jr and Albert Roux of the famed Le Gavroche restaurant in London, who soon appointed him Head Chef of their prestigious Michelin star venue. After 11 years leading the team at Le Gavroche, Brian returned to Scotland to open the doors of his own restaurant, Le Chardon d’Or in Glasgow. His food is inspired by the bounty of the Scottish larder. Almost 18 years on you will still find Brian in the kitchen of Le Chardon d’Or every day, working alongside his team, overseeing the cooking and presentation of every dish. Once pandemic restrictions ease, Brian and his team look forward to welcoming you back to Le Chardon d’Or.

Whiskeria Spring 2021

Mixing It Up

1/ Sound of Smoke  50ml Bunnahabhain Toiteach a Dhà 1 Bag Lapsang Souchong Tea 10ml Lemon Juice 2 drops Angostura Bitters Method: Fill mixing glass with ice. Add whisky, lemon juice, bitters and tea bag and stir down with bar spoon. Strain into a whisky tumbler over a block of ice and garnish. Glass: Whisky Tumbler Garnish: Lemon Wheel with Tea Leaves — Food Pairing:

Smoked Haddock with Leek & Herb Butter Sauce Brian’s gently smoked haddock conjures up notes of the sea and smoke that resonate through the air on Islay. The dish is the perfect match for Bunnahabhain’s Toiteach a Dhà – a peated whisky that retains the sweetness and light spice that Bunnahabhain is known for. The addition of Lapsang Souchong tea – a black tea that is smoke dried over a pine wood fire – gives the drink a light herbal note, as well as lots of sweetness and tang, pairing beautifully with the freshness of the herbs and the delicate sweetness of the leek within Brian’s creamy butter sauce. Delicious.

Whiskeria Spring 2021

Mixing It Up

2/ Storm and Spice  50ml 20ml 10ml 1 drop

Ledaig 18 Year Old Green Chartreuse Lime Juice Tabasco Sauce Topped with Soda

Method: Fill glass with ice. Add whisky, Chartreuse and lime juice. Stir together and top with soda. Add a drop of Tabasco and garnish. Glass: Highball Garnish: Celery Stick — Food Pairing:

King Prawns with Ginger Confit, Pak Choi & Coriander The saltiness of the prawns and the spice of the ginger confit and coriander offer an oriental feel to this dish, so an aromatic whisky is key here. Enter, Ledaig 18 Year Old. Ledaig is peated spirit from Tobermory Distillery and takes its name from the Gaelic for ‘safe haven’, as Tobermory’s harbour was a place of rest for fishermen from west coast storms. The 18-year-old is particularly smoky and herbal, with peppery spice and some great fruity notes from its sherry cask finish. The whisky, alongside Green Chartreuse (a herbal liqueur from France that dates back to 1605), help this cocktail to stand up against the spice in the prawn dish, with soda and lime juice lengthening the drink and reducing its strength. A final drop of Tabasco takes it to a whole new level, making it the perfect accompaniment to Brian’s prawns – preferably enjoyed outside during a storm!

Whiskeria Spring 2021

Mixing It Up

3/ Fruit and Nut  60ml 15ml 3 drops 2

Bunnahabhain 12 Year Old Pear Syrup Nut Bitters Egg Whites

Method: Add whisky, pear syrup and nut bitters to cocktail shaker and dry shake. Add ice and egg whites and wet shake. Strain into a coupe glass and garnish. Glass: Coupe Garnish: Pear Ribbon and Star Anise — Food Pairing:

Goat’s Cheese & Onion Confit Tart with Aged Balsamic Vinegar The sweet, sherry-influenced Bunnahabhain 12 Year Old is the perfect whisky to pair with Brian’s rich goat’s cheese dish. The signature style from Bunnahabhain Distillery, this whisky is packed with plenty of fruit and spice. The addition of pear syrup brings out more sweetness in the whisky and cuts through the goat’s cheese, while the bitters bring forward a delicious, nutty note, matching well with the pastry. A garnish of star anise adds a scent of liquorice which pairs beautifully with the balsamic vinegar, and that little saline note on the finish of the whisky acts as a final element of seasoning.

Whiskeria Spring 2021

Mixing It Up

4/ Tobermory 23 Year Old  Tobermory 23 Year Old – you choose the measure! Method: Serve neat or add a touch of water. Glass: Whisky Tumbler — Food Pairing:

Roasted Guinea Fowl with Haggis Bon Bon and Wild Mushrooms A special dish calls for a special dram. Tobermory 23 Year Old is the oldest release from the distillery in the last few years. Originally matured in re-fill casks, it's then transferred to supreme sherry casks from Gonzales Byass. The Christmas spice within this whisky works wonderfully with the spice in the haggis, while the dram’s musky dunnage warehouse nose goes hand-in-hand with the wild mushrooms. Notes of sherry, caramel and heather honey pair exceptionally well with the star of the show, Brian’s guinea fowl, enhancing its rich poultry sweetness and long flavour. Add a little water if required, but sip, savour and enjoy in the delights of a fabulous game dish and an exceptionally aged single malt.

Whiskeria Spring 2021

Mixing It Up

5/ Adelphi Silk  50ml Deanston 18 Year Old 20ml Calvados 10ml Lemon Juice 2 drops Angostura Orange Bitters 2 Egg Whites Method: Add whisky, Calvados, lemon juice and bitters to cocktail shaker and dry shake. Add ice and egg whites and wet shake. Strain into a coupe glass and garnish. Glass: Coupe Garnish: Sprinkle of Nutmeg — Food Pairing:

Tarte Tatin of Apple with Vanilla Ice Cream and Deanstoninfused Butterscotch Sauce A moreish dessert with a great balance of apple sweetness, rich vanilla and creamy butterscotch; Deanston 18 Year Old is the obvious choice to complement such a classic. Matured in the former weaving shed of the Adelphi Cotton Mill, now Warehouse 2 at Deanston Distillery, the whisky’s sweetness, light spice and notes of vanilla, cinnamon, honey and ginger work so well with this dish. The addition of Calvados cuts through the tartness of the citrus and the drink is shaken with a couple of egg whites to make it luxuriously silky. A dusting of nutmeg as a garnish complements Brian’s perfect pastry. A brilliant finishing act.

BLAZE A TRAIL. SIP RESPONSIBLY.

Fresh starts, new drinks. Best of Irish / Gifts for Mum / Speyside at home / Home bar staples

→ Buy online → whiskyshop.com

St Patrick's Day Raise a glass to Ireland’s patron saint – and make sure it’s filled with a belter!

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➊ Slane Irish Whiskey 70cl | 40% VOL | £32

Banana / Raisins / Clove

→ Distilled on the grounds of the iconic Slane Castle Estate, just outside Dublin → A unique blend of Irish whiskey from three different casks → Whiskey from virgin American oak, seasoned second-fill American oak and oloroso sherry casks

➋ Redbreast 15 Year Old 70cl | 46% VOL | £90

Nutmeg / Custard / Mixed berries

→ Triple distilled and carefully aged in a combination of first-fill and refill casks → A more complex older sibling to Redbreast 12 Year Old → Initially a limited edition, this whiskey’s so good it’s now a permanent member of the family!

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➌ Tullamore D.E.W XO 70cl | 43% VOL | £28

➎ Paddy Mango / Banana / Demerara sugar

→ An online exclusive, this is a triple blend of malt, grain and pot still whiskey → Finished in Caribbean casks which previously held Demerara rum → Classic Tullamore D.E.W. character with plenty of sweet tropical flavours

➍ Bushmills 21 Year Old 70cl | 40% VOL | £160

Banana / Hazelnut / Dark chocolate

→ A triple distilled blended Irish whiskey produced in Cork → Using all three styles of Irish whiskey, it has a uniquely high proportion of malt whiskey → Named after salesman Paddy O'Flaherty – a legend across the Irish pub scene

➏ Blue Spot Honey / Pecan / Coffee

→ An exquisite Irish whiskey aged in oloroso sherry and bourbon casks → Spends its final two years in Madeira wine casks → Sip this one neat, from your favourite glass

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70cl | 40% VOL | £28

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70cl | 58.7% VOL | £75

Custard / Banana / Pineapple

→ A fantastic, fruity new arrival from County Cork’s Midleton Distillery → Matured in a combination of bourbon, sherry and Madeira casks for at least seven years → Bottled free from chill filtration at a mighty cask strength!

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Mother's Day

➊ Dalmore 12 Year Old Sherry Cask Select 70cl | 43% VOL | £69

Mango / Cinnamon / Panna cotta

→ A truly decadent dram aged in ex-bourbon casks and finished in sherry barrels from Andalusia → Exclusive to The Whisky Shop in the UK – treat your mum to something unique! → Sip it neat, drink it in an Old Fashioned or add it to a chocolate truffle mix

Shower superstar mums in their favourite spirits.

➋ Bunnahabhain Toiteach A Dhà 70cl | 46.3% VOL | £48

Sea salt / Sultanas / Black pepper

→ Crafted with Bunnahabhain Mòine, the Islay distillery’s peated spirit → Aged in ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks, the finish is long, spicy and warm → An award-winning whisky for an award-winning mum!

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➌ Noble Isle Whisky & Water Candle £40

➎ Suntory Toki Gift Set

Orange blossom / Jasmine / Tonka bean

70cl | 43% VOL | £40

→ Whisky fans will be delighted with this beautifully crafted single wick candle → Fills the home with calming scents of rose, jasmine and amber → As well as warming aromas of the distilleries of Dufftown

➍ Isle of Raasay Gin 70cl | 46% VOL | £37

Ginger / White pepper / Apple

→ A blend of whisky from Suntory’s Yamazaki, Hakushu and Chita Distilleries → Takes its name from the Japanese for 'time’ → Complete with a premium highball glass, so your mum can sip her Toki in style!

➏ Woodford Reserve Cocktail Gift Set Rhubarb / Orange peel / Lemon sponge

20cl + 6cl | 43.2% VOL | £26.99

→ Introducing the first legal spirit from the Isle of Raasay → Fresh and zesty, the recipe uses ten botanicals including rhubarb and island-grown juniper → Enjoy over ice, with a splash of tonic and a twist of orange peel to garnish

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Vanilla / Coconut / Butterscotch

→ Send your mum the perfect Old Fashioned to enjoy on Mother’s Day → Complete with 20cl bottle of Woodford Reserve, rocks glass and Old Fashioned syrup → Stir all ingredients over ice for 10 seconds and garnish with a twist of orange

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Spirit of Speyside

70cl | 51.8% VOL | £90

Sherry / Fruitcake / Apricot

→ Distilled in July 2008 and matured in a single Pedro Ximénez puncheon for more than a decade → Selected exclusively for The Whisky Shop, with just 773 bottles filled → A spectacular sherry bomb!

Celebrate Scotland’s largest whisky festival with our top picks from Speyside.

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➊ GlenAllachie 2008 #508 The Whisky Shop Exclusive

➋ Benromach 21 Year Old 70cl | 43% VOL | £125

Baked apple / Raspberry / Black pepper

→ Say hello to the newest (and oldest!) addition to Benromach’s core range → Matured for over two decades in a duo of first-fill sherry and bourbon casks → Rich Speyside flavour combines with subtle notes of peat

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➌ Balvenie Tun 1509 Batch 7 70cl | 52.4% VOL | £300

➎ GlenDronach 15 Year Old Revival Honeycomb / Golden syrup / Hazelnut

→ Malt Master David Stewart MBE brings together some of Balvenie’s most precious aged stocks → Combines four American oak refill barrels, ten refill sherry butts and seven sherry hogsheads → Showcases Stewart's expert knowledge from almost 60 years in the industry

➍ Glen Moray Sauternes Cask 70cl | 59.6% VOL | £79.95

Treacle / Toffee / Terry’s Chocolate Orange

→ Matured in the finest oloroso sherry and Pedro Ximénez casks → A full bodied and dynamic Speyside dram for its 15 years → Awarded ‘Best in Show’ at 2020’s San Francisco World Spirits Competition

➏ The Macallan 12 Year Old Double Cask Seville orange / Caramel / Dark chocolate

→ Matured for 14 years exclusively in five sweet Sauternes wine casks → Signature Speyside flavours meet the honeyed sweetness of France’s famous dessert wine → Another fine example of Glen Moray’s passion for unusual cask maturation

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70cl | 46% VOL | £62

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70cl | 43% VOL | £60

Butterscotch / Candied orange / Ginger

→ The perfect partnership of whisky from oloroso sherry-seasoned American and European oak casks → Sweet American oak flavours take centre stage → While more traditional Speyside characteristics provide a familiar backdrop

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Last Orders

➊ 1826 Espresso Martini 50cl | 20% VOL | £25

Shake things up at home with our selection of ready-to-pour cocktails, spirits and more.

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Dark chocolate / Coffee / Caramel

→ Enjoy an indulgent twist on a legendary serve → Expertly crafted with Courvoisier Cognac and ready to drink → Simply shake, pour and enjoy!

➋ 1826 Smoky French Martini 50cl | 20% VOL | £25

Raspberry / Pineapple / Peat smoke

→ Savour a smoky twist on a classic cocktail → Ready to drink and made with Laphroaig whisky for ultimate peat flavour → Chill your Martini glass in the fridge before you pour

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➌ Sazerac Rye 75cl | 45% VOL | £52

➎ Kraken Rum Limited Edition Ceramic Bottle Vanilla / Pepper / Orange zest

70cl | 40% VOL | £59

→ An exceptional rye whiskey produced at Kentucky’s Buffalo Trace Distillery → Named after Sazerac Coffee House in New Orleans, birthplace of the famous Sazerac cocktail → A must-have for your home bar; this also makes an epic Manhattan

➍ Brooklyn Gin 70cl | 40% VOL | £39.99

➏ Maker's Mark Private Select #4 The Whisky Shop Exclusive Lime / Grapefruit / Lavender

70cl | 54.4% VOL | £85

→ A vibrant and citrussy gin hailing from Brookyln in New York City → Distilled using locally purchased fruit and a base spirit made from 100% American corn → Negronis? G&Ts? Gin Martinis? This gin nails them all!

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Cinnamon / Vanilla / Nutmeg

→ Distilled from molasses derived from locally grown sugar cane in Trinidad & Tobago → Made with a blend of eleven spices including cinnamon, ginger and clove → Instantly elevate your homemade Daiquiri, Mojito, or Rum Punch

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Peaches / Shortbread / Orange zest

→ A Kentucky bourbon hand-selected by our team of experts → The fourth release from our series of Maker's Mark single barrel bottlings → Old Fashioneds and Whiskey Sours never tasted so good!

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Customer Favourites Light / Floral

➋ Loch Lomond 14 Year Old 70cl | 46% VOL | £55

➌ anCnoc 12 Year Old 70cl | 40% VOL | £38

➊ Bruichladdich The Classic Laddie 70cl | 50% VOL | £52

Green apple / Grapefruit / Vanilla

Matured in American oak and finished in lightly toasted French oak from the Limousin region for up to 12 months, Loch Lomond 14 Year Old delivers the unmistakeable fruit character found in the distillery's single malt.

Banana / Butterscotch / Custard

Produced at Knockdhu Distillery in the Highlands and matured in a combination of second-fill American oak, ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks, this is an award-winning expression that should sit proudly on your spirits shelf.

Honey / Vanilla / Malted biscuit

A single malt crafted by Bruichladdich legend Jim McEwan, this expression showcases the florality and elegance of the distillery’s house style. Unpeated, The Classic Laddie is the distillery’s signature bottling and the definitive Bruichladdich. “Pure magic! And a great introduction to whisky from Bruichladdich. Barley, honey, citrus, malt, nutty vanilla and a little sea salt: this dram is packed with lots of lovely stuff for your tastebuds to enjoy.”

→ AJ, The Whisky Shop York

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➍ Balblair 12 Year Old 70cl | 46% VOL | £52

➐ Glen Moray 18 Year Old Sultanas / Honey / Apple

70cl | 47.2% VOL | £85

Matured in American oak, ex-bourbon and double-fired American oak casks, this 12-year-old whisky has an elegant complexity and warmth – the defining expression of Balblair Distillery.

➎ Balblair 15 Year Old 70cl | 46% VOL | £80

➑ Bunnahabhain 12 Year Old Apple / Dates / Caramel

70cl | 46.3% VOL | £47

An older sibling to Balblair 12 Year Old, this whisky perfectly balances unique distillery character with smoothness of age, thanks to a flavour profile of tropical fruits and a texture of melted chocolate. Gorgeous.

➒ Auchroisk 10 Year Old Nectarine / Ginger / Pear

70cl | 43% VOL | £48

Hailing from the village of the same name, this whisky is a masterclass in fruity Highland flavour – perfectly embodying Fettercairn’s exotic fruit-driven character. It has been matured in American oak ex-bourbon for its full 12 years in cask. Simply delicious.

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Orange zest / Cut grass / Roasted nuts

A special whisky due to being the only official bottling of Auchroisk Distilllery. This 10-year-old expression is part of Diageo’s Flora & Fauna series – an ode to superb single malts from lesser-known distilleries which normally provide liquid for blends.

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Dried fruit / Honey / Chestnut

Bunnahabhain's whiskies are quite distinct from other single malts of the Islay region, in that the majority are produced with unpeated malted barley. Toast the versatility of Islay with this superb 12-year-old expression that showcases Bunnahabhain's ‘fruit and nut’ signature style.

➏ Fettercairn 12 Year Old 70cl | 40% VOL | £47

Heather / Honey / Fudge

A Speyside single malt from the Cairngorms, this expression is aged in the finest American oak barrels, specially selected to emphasise the whisky’s smooth character. It is a whisky that is celebrated for its long and mellow finish.

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Customer Favourites Rich / Sweet

➋ The Glenrothes 12 Year Old 70cl | 40% VOL | £45

➌ The Dalmore 12 Year Old 70cl | 40% VOL | £50

➊ The BenRiach The Twelve 70cl | 46% VOL | £50

Vanilla / Cinnamon / Orange zest

Part of the Soleo Collection from The Glenrothes Distillery in Speyside, this 12-year-old single malt is described as the hero of the range and is matured entirely in sherry-seasoned oak casks. Bottled at 40% VOL, this is both an easy drinking and delicious dram.

Cocoa / Marmalade / Milk chocolate

This single malt is a Highland triumph: full-bodied, thick and sweet. A popular dram, known for its long and spicy finish, and a beautifully rich expression for its 12 years of age.

Honey / Maraschino cherries / Cocoa

Part of the refreshed core line-up from Benriach, this new recipe brings intensified notes of baked fruits and a rich smoothness, thanks to time spent in a combination of sherry casks, bourbon barrels and Port pipes under the expert care of Master Blender Rachel Barrie.

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“This new expression from Benriach doesn’t disappoint. Ex-bourbon, sherry and Port casks combine to create poached pears and baked apple on the nose, cherries and chocolate on the palate, and a long, spiced oak finish. A winner!”

→ Adam, The Whisky Shop Piccadilly

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➍ Old Pulteney 15 Year Old 70cl | 46% VOL | £75

➐ The Dalmore 15 Year Old Honey / Salted caramel / Fruitcake

An incredibly balanced single malt that has spent time in American oak ex-bourbon casks and finished in Spanish oak. Spice and sweetness combine with the refreshing coastal notes expected from this seaside distillery to create a delicious dram.

➎ Arran 10 Year Old 70cl | 46% VOL | £45

Apple / Cinnamon / Digestive biscuits

➏ Benrinnes 15 Year Old

70cl | 43% VOL | £52

Walnut / Cinnamon / Fruitcake

Established in 1798, Blair Athol is one of Scotland’s oldest working distilleries and is famed for producing the signature malt for Bell’s blend. A delicious dram, this is one of only a few official bottlings ever released from the distillery.

➒ Loch Lomond 18 Year Old Toffee apple / Sherry / Malted biscuit

This 15-year-old Speyside single malt is partially triple distilled at Benrinnes Distillery, resulting in a sultry expression that packs in plenty of body and character. It is another bottling from Diageo’s Flora & Fauna series, highlighting the versatility of distilleries producing liquid for blends.

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Terry's Chocolate Orange / Fruitcake / Sherry

An older sibling to The Dalmore 12 Year Old, this expression has been matured for 15 years in a trio of ex-sherry casks, as well as ex-bourbon barrels. It offers all of the sweetness and spice expected of The Dalmore.

➑ Blair Athol 12 Year Old

An award-winning whisky that captures the fresh and unique style of this island distillery. A worthy addition to your whisky cabinet, this expression offers a fantastic introduction to the flavours from Arran.

70cl | 43% VOL | £52

70cl | 40% VOL | £72

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70cl | 46% VOL | £78

Apple / Honey / Tobacco

Matured in the finest oak barrels chosen by former Master Cooper Tommy Wallace, time has allowed this 18-year-old Highland malt to take on the sweeter character of the wood, while a subtle hint of peat and smoke ensures a balanced finish.

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Customer Favourites Rich / Sweet

➋ Glenfiddich Project XX 70cl | 47% VOL | £50

➌ Glen Moray 15 Year Old 70cl | 40% VOL | £55

➊ Oban Distillers Edition 70cl | 43% VOL | £79

Cinnamon / Almond / Pear drops

The result of one of the most ambitious malt experiments undertaken by Glenfiddich, bringing together 20 whisky experts from around the world and combining each of their selected Glenfiddich casks. The result is something spectacular.

Dark chocolate / Sherry / Fudge

Unquestionably Speyside in character, this expression showcases a carefully matured, complex and well-rounded whisky, aged in a combination of sherry and American oak casks, and influenced by Elgin’s unique climate.

Milk chocolate / Sea salt / Christmas cake

A distillery renowned for its innovation, each expression of Oban Distillers Edition undergoes double maturation in casks that have previously held a fortified wine. This edition has been finished in a Montilla Fino cask – a rare type of finish and a complete treat! “Sublimely complex, this dram offers layer after layer of salted caramel, cigar smoke and apple pie. Very sippable, very moreish – it’s a constant on my whisky shelf.”

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Stephanie, The Whisky Shop Inverness

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➍ Glen Scotia Victoriana 70cl | 54.2% VOL | £73

➐ Benromach 10 Year Old Creme brûlée / Cocoa / Caramel

70cl | 43% VOL | £39.99

Inspired by the whiskies produced at Glen Scotia Distillery in the Victorian times, this expression has been relaunched at a slightly higher strength and bottled straight from cask to better reflect how historic expressions of this era would have tasted. Delicious!

➎ The GlenDronach 18 Year Old Allardice 70cl | 46% VOL | £120

➑ The GlenDronach 12 Year Old

Stewed fruit / Walnut / Cherry

70cl | 43% VOL | £49

An ode to James Allardice who founded the distillery and produced the very first drops of “guid Glendronach,” this expression has been matured in the finest oloroso sherry casks. Rich and dark, it offers remarkable depth of flavour.

➏ Highland Park 18 Year Old Viking Pride 70cl | 43% VOL | £110

Green apple / Toffee / Black cherry

Produced at the family-owned distillery in Forres and aged for a decade in first-fill bourbon and sherry casks, Benromach’s 10-year-old is a dram that is unmistakably Speyside in flavour. It is the proud winner of multiple gold awards.

Marmalade / Sherry / Raisins

An award-winning expression from the distillery famous for its richly sherried offering – this 12-year-old is a firm favourite amongst our customers. Matured in both Pedro Ximénez and oloroso sherry casks, this expression offers an indulgent portfolio of flavours.

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→ Buy online → whiskyshop.com

Fruit salad / Cinnamon / Allspice

Named ‘Best Spirit in the World’ in the Spirit Journal on two separate occasions, this 18-year-old offers the perfect balance of harmony, complexity and refinement. A consistently excellent malt from Orkney's Highland Park Distillery.

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Customer Favourites Smoky

➋ Talisker Port Ruighe 70cl | 45.8% VOL | £55

➌ Ailsa Bay 1.2 70cl | 48.9% VOL | £60

➊ Balvenie The Week of Peat 14 Year Old 70cl | 48.3% VOL | £65

Cocoa / Plum / Spicy pepper

Rich and fruity, Talisker have taken their Isle of Skye malt and finished it in ruby port casks to achieve this delicious dram. 'Port Ruighe' (pronounced 'Portree') is the Gaelic spelling of the once bustling trading port on Skye.

Vanilla / Shortbread / Campfire ember

Ailsa Bay 1.2 has undergone the distillery’s signature micro-maturation process – rapid maturation in ex-bourbon casks before ageing in virgin American oak casks for several years – achieving a single malt that’s even sweeter and smokier than its predecessor. Beautiful.

Peat smoke / Butterscotch / Honey

The second release in The Balvenie Stories series, this expression was created by Distillery Manager Ian Millar who was inspired by a trip to Islay. For one week each year, Balvenie distil peated malt, introducing fragrant notes of smoke to the distillery’s classic Speyside character. “Warm, smooth, with hints of caramel and just the right amount of smoke: this is the perfect Speyside whisky for any Islay lover! One to relax with after a long country walk.”

→ Laura, The Whisky Shop Birmingham

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➍ Port Charlotte 10 Year Old 70cl | 50% VOL | £62

➏ Caol Ila Distillers Edition Salted caramel / Peat smoke / Ginger

The flagship release in Bruichladdich's heavily-peated range, this single malt is packed to the brim with characteristic Port Charlotte smoke. Aged in American oak and French wine casks, the liquid has been distilled, matured and bottled entirely on Islay.

➎ Jura 18 Year Old 70cl | 44% VOL | £75

Dark chocolate / Coffee / Blackcurrant jam

Matured for 18 years in American white oak ex-bourbon barrels and enriched by Premier Grand Cru Classé red wine barriques, this expertly crafted single malt is a unique island whisky that has truly come of age.

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70cl | 43% VOL | £75

Malted biscuit / Peat smoke / Cinnamon

A sweeter expression from the Islay distillery due to time spent in Moscatel casks at the end of its maturation process. The result is a delicious layer of sweetness and dried fruits on top of classic Caol Ila peat smoke.

→ Buy online → whiskyshop.com

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Customer Favourites International

➋ Bulleit Bourbon 10 Year Old 70cl | 45.6% VOL | £49

➌ Maker’s 46 70cl | 47% VOL | £45

➊ Bushmills 16 Year Old 70cl | 40% VOL | £75

Apricot / Vanilla / Cinnamon

A top-notch Kentucky bourbon that has spent a decade in oak. With a mash bill of 68% corn, 28% rye and 4% malted barley, this is the go-to bourbon for a rich balance of creaminess and spice.

Nutmeg / Mulled wine / Caramel

Filled into a barrel partly made of seared French oak staves, this stunning Kentucky bourbon packs plenty of spice and is named after the final recipe chosen by its creators – recipe number 46.

Almond / Currant jam / Dark chocolate

Triple distilled at Northern Ireland's Bushmills Distillery, this 16-year-old Irish single malt has been matured in oloroso sherry casks and bourbon-seasoned casks for just over 15 years, before being finished in Port pipes for nine months to impart sweet, jammy flavours. “One of my favourite Irish whiskeys. Oatmeal cookies, toffee and pecans lead on the palate, followed by dried fruits and strawberry jam thanks to its sherry maturation. Smooth and buttery in the finish.”

→ Kate, The Whisky Shop Glasgow

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➍ Green Spot 70cl | 40% VOL | £46

➏ Roe & Co Vanilla / Papaya / Chocolate

Produced at Midleton Distillery in Ireland and comprised of pot still whiskeys aged between seven and ten years old, this whiskey was once only available to buy at one grocery store in Dublin. It is now a whiskey held to high acclaim across the world – and rightly so!

➎ Redbreast 12 Year Old 70cl | 40% VOL | £50

Pear drops / Allspice / Vanilla

Developed by Diageo Master Blender Caroline Martin, this is a whiskey that can be enjoyed neat or hold its own in a cocktail. A tasty blend of malt and grain from various distilleries across Ireland, this expression has been matured predominantly in first-fill bourbon casks.

➐ Tullamore D.E.W. 14 Year Old Ginger / Marzipan / Dried fruit

This 12-year-old expression is an Irish single pot still whiskey full of aroma and flavour, praised by critics worldwide. Matured in ex-bourbon barrels and oloroso sherry casks, you can thank the latter for giving this whiskey its signature Christmas cake flavour.

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70cl | 45% VOL | £35

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70cl | 41.3% VOL | £57

Vanilla / Honey / Apple

A delicious dram that has been triple distilled in true Irish tradition. Aged for up to 14 years in ex-bourbon barrels, this expression was then finished for a minimum of 6 months in a range of different casks, including oloroso sherry butts, Port pipes and Madeira drums.

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Whiskeria Spring 2021

Expert Tasting

Expert Tasting: Bowmore 30 Year Old Has Whiskeria’s Charlie MacLean met his match with one of Islay’s most iconic malts?

Bowmore Distillery has added an ongoing 30-year-old annual release to its portfolio of whiskies, beginning this year. The inaugural limited edition release is drawn from a small selection of American oak sherry-seasoned hogsheads and ex-bourbon barrels chosen by Distillery Manager David Turner and Master Blender Ron Welsh, who claim it to be: “Defined by a rich fruity flavour, tropical and sweet with butterscotch notes, rounded by the unmistakable subtle peat smoke of Bowmore.” It is presented in a handsome oak box “the colour of driftwood” with a side panel of “polished sea glass” signifying the turquoise waters of Loch Indaal. In October last year, Edrington BeamSuntory, the owner of Bowmore, launched a promotional campaign to celebrate the distillery’s foundation over 240 years ago, in 1779. Named ‘The Art of Time’, the campaign aims to depict how Bowmore whiskies benefit from ‘the power of time’ as they mature. Celine Daniel, Bowmore’s global marketing manager commented: “We believe that Bowmore is a work of art and our understanding and respect for time is central to how and why we craft our whisky. With this campaign, we will show how Bowmore uses time to transform our celebrated single malt into a true masterpiece. By drawing inspiration from the

black rocks surrounding our distillery, we are also paying homage to the way time has shaped not only our whisky, but also Islay itself.” David Turner, adds: “By adding an ongoing 30-year-old Bowmore to the portfolio, we are able to showcase how vital time spent in cask shapes and influences our spirit, making it even more exceptional and characterful. “Each annual release will tell the rich stories of Bowmore, but importantly each will have their own unique style and character. As for this release, it’s another perfect example of classic Bowmore but with boundless depth and intrigue reflecting the long standing interaction of spirit and wood.” Islay’s oldest licensed distillery, Bowmore is home to one of the world’s oldest Scotch maturation warehouses, the No. 1 Vaults. It’s inside this legendary warehouse that Bowmore single malts have been meticulously matured, including this new limited edition release, of which only 2,580 bottles exist.

“Melted butterscotch, on a base of fragrant smoke… with a touch of salt, a lightly smoky finish and an aftertaste of hessian.

Tasting notes

The colour of conkers – very deep amber – the nosefeel is mellow, at once dry and faintly mentholic. The aroma is complex and sophisticated. The top notes are faintly floral (heather pollen) and densely fruity (orange pomander, with cloves), backed by melted butterscotch, on a base of fragrant smoke. A smooth texture and a sweet overall taste, with a touch of salt, a lightly smoky finish and an aftertaste of hessian.

70cl 30 Year Old Islay Single Malt

45.3% Vol £2,295

Bowmore Distillery has added an ongoing 30-year-old annual release to its portfolio of whiskies, starting with this year's inaugural release.

Whiskeria Spring 2021

The Last Word

Haufing a laugh

Craving a night at your local? Bruichladdich’s Abi Clephane brings the pub to you with a line-up of whisky and beer pairings, plus bar snacks to boot.

A ‘hauf an a hauf’ is one of the first drinks I ever remember having at lunch when I started working with Bruichladdich, sitting outside at the Ben Nevis pub in Glasgow. For me, it’s almost unbeatable. An age-old tradition here in Scotland, there’s just something about a nip and a half pint that complement each other so well, whilst making your drinking experience that little bit longer. Pre-lockdown, I was a lass of pretty simple means. I would generally stick with a half Tennent’s, Guinness or 80 Shilling, depending on the dram in hand. Since being unable to venture to the pub in what feels like forever, I’ve started doing a bit of experimentation with the ‘hauf and a hauf’ at my kitchen table… snacks must be included, imaginary pub or not.

The line-up

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the whisky: The Classic Laddie is a beautiful and elegant reflection of our unpeated Islay distillery style. For me, this whisky is floral with green apples and pears, loads of barley sugar and stone fruits. There is also an unmistakable salty tang due to its full-term Islay maturation. the beer: The Classic Laddie is great with most things, but I tend to have it with a lighter style beer like Fyne Ales Jarl or Islay Ales The Big Strand (a result of extensive research at the Port Charlotte Hotel bar!). Two more unusual beers I love to drink alongside The Classic Laddie are Jubel Peach and Pilot Peach Melba Sour. The hint of peach flavour in both of these beers goes so well with the whisky. the snack: In the snack department, I’d go big… pickled onion Monster Munch, or salt and vinegar anything!

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➊ bruichladdich the classic laddie

➋ port charlotte 10 year old the whisky: Port Charlotte 10 Year Old is matured in a variety of American and French oak casks and is peated to 40ppm. I get lots of toffee, vanilla and almost coconutty flavours from this whisky, whilst also a savoury barbeque flavour. the beer: With Port Charlotte 10 Year Old, I think it’s best to go a little darker with your beer choice. I’d suggest an amber ale or a heavy. Toast Ale Crumpet Table Beer is a nice, light, fruity yet malty beer made with leftover crumpets and it goes very well with this dram. Vedett Extra Blond is also a great choice – its honeyed maltiness with a hint of citrus is a perfect match for the whisky. the snack: Pair with Smith’s Bacon Fries… or Marks & Spencer’s beef wellington crisps if you’re feeling fancy!

➌ port charlotte olc: 01 the whisky: Port Charlotte OLC:01 begins its journey in a variety of French and American oak before it’s moved into oloroso casks from Fernando de Castilla for an additional 18 months. Peated to 40ppm, the resulting flavour is fruity with figs and peach, deep leathery tobacco and then a real nutty quality. the beer: Guinness Original is the winner here for me. In fact, this whisky is a match made in heaven with stouts in general. Overtone Brewery’s Dusty Miller and It’s Bounty Happen also go hand-in-hand with Port Charlotte OLC:01. the snack: Drink alongside anything barbequeflavoured – I would go for Rib ‘n’ Saucy Nik Naks or Saucy BBQ Transform-A-Snack.

➍ octomore 11.3 the whisky: Octomore’s reputation sometimes precedes it, but I think it’s best to forget what you know about whisky and just go for it! Octomore 11.3 is five years old, aged in first-fill American oak casks and peated to a sensational 194ppm. It’s made from barley grown on Octomore Farm a couple of miles from the distillery and is 61.7% VOL. the beer: My advice is to be bold when pairing this, and don’t let the numbers spook you! Porters work great here, but recently I’ve been enjoying it with a raspberry, slightly sour beer such as Framboise Boon. Red berries work so well with peated whisky, and their almost yoghurt-like acidity complements the barley sweetness and deep smoke coming through at the end of the dram. the snack: Pork scratchings are my guilty pleasure with Octomore. Always.

For plenty more whisky inspiration, follow Abi (@abi_bruichlassie) and Bruichladdich Distillery (@bruichladdich) on Instagram.

Please savour responsibly

Crafted without compromise from American and European oak sherry seasoned casks. THE MACALLAN DOUBLE CASK RANGE

Photography by Steve McCurry For further information contact Edrington-Beam Suntory UK Distribution Limited. Tel: +44 (0) 333 016 1910 Web: Edrington-BeamSuntoryUK.com