Winter Whiskeria 2020-21

¡Salud!

Winter 2020–21 £4.50 (where sold)

Award-winning Roca brothers toast the future + + + +

The Macallan London Travel Guide Maker's Mark Mixing It Up The Dalmore Distillery Visit The Balvenie Industry Insider

The Magazine of

2

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

Advertorial

A love affair with sherry

Introducing The Dalmore 12 Year Old Sherry Cask Select: the latest addition to The Dalmore’s award-winning Principal Collection of Highland single malts. A celebration of the distillery’s century-long love affair with sherry, it is an exquisite union of the finest oak, and a unique blend of rare and aged sherry, delivering sweet fruit and decadent spice.

Working hand in hand with three cask partners in Andalucía, Master Distiller Richard Paterson created a bespoke sherry blend to season the oak casks to infuse and finish this flavour-rich and evocative special release, which spent an initial ten years in American white oak ex-bourbon casks. ‘the nose’ Paterson is celebrating 50 years of experience in the whisky industry. A third generation Master Distiller, Richard learned his craft from his father and grandfather and has enthused his daughter today with the alchemy of how he channels nature and flavour in his creations, while keeping a watchful eye over some of Scotland’s oldest and most rare whisky stocks.

The whisky artisan, affectionately called ‘The Nose’ in the industry, draws upon influences from a plethora of sources – from gastronomy and astronomy, to history and folklore, in the complex art and pursuit of producing exceptional whisky.

Richard Paterson said: “Sherry and Highland single malt are perfect partners in so many ways... The warmth of Spain creating the perfect complement to the cold temperament of the Scottish Highlands. At first they may not have been an obvious pairing, but the rich full-bodied spirit of The Dalmore from the unpredictable cool and damp climes of the Scottish Highlands, meeting the raisiny, sweet syrup of its sunny sherry counterpart becomes a formidable force, forging a love affair never to be broken.”

Its full finish in aged oloroso and Pedro Ximénez sherry casks reveals a more floral, light and refined side to The Dalmore. It is a truly decadent whisky – aromas of carmelised orange, ginger and sultanas laced with honey move on to

a sensual harmony of dark chocolate and crushed almonds with a dusting of cinnamon on the palate, ending with a lingering and long, luscious finish of sweet mangos, panna cotta and lemon sponge cake. a perfect pairing To celebrate the new Principal Collection release, The Dalmore has partnered with the Meringue Girls to create sweet treats gently infused with the deliciously elegant whisky.

The Meringue Girls emerged in 2012 via London’s booming street food scene, quickly becoming an Instagram sensation and causing a storm in the fashion world with private orders flooding in from luxury houses, including Dior and Chanel. They now have their own bakery in the bustling food hub of Broadway Market.

“The Dalmore got in touch with us to do what we do best – flavour pairing! They wanted to create some amazing whisky-inspired sweet treats to celebrate the launch of their 12 Year Old Sherry Cask Select. We’ve recently got into whisky, and this is a particularly sweet and spicy one that works brilliantly with all sorts of delicious, autumnal flavours.

“We got our taste buds going with some team flavour pairing chats and whipped up a batch of light and fluffy marshmallows, dark chocolate whisky truffles with perfectly tempered golden shells, and rich and buttery orange & ginger shortbreads... the cosy months are coming and these intense, warming flavours are right up our street. We’ve included a recipe for you to recreate one of the sweet treats at home. Enjoy!”

The Dalmore 12 Year Old Sherry Cask Select is available to purchase in the UK exclusively from The Whisky Shop, priced £69. www.thedalmore.com

❝

Sherry and Highland single malt are perfect partners in so many ways... The warmth of Spain creating the perfect complement to the cold temperament of the Scottish Highlands.

Richard Paterson, Master Distiller

3

The Meringue Girls x The Dalmore 12 Year Old Sherry Cask Select Dark Chocolate Truffles Ingredients 240g dark chocolate; 240ml double cream; 30ml The Dalmore 12 Year Old Sherry Cask Select; 1 tsp vanilla extract; Cocoa powder Equipment Mixing bowls; Saucepan; Heatproof spatula; Melon baller or teaspoon Method 1. Chop the chocolate into small pieces and place in a large heatproof bowl.

2. Add the cream, The Dalmore 12 Year Old Sherry Cask Select and vanilla to a saucepan and bring to a simmer over a medium heat. Keep the mixture at a simmer (don’t let it boil) and stir continuously for two minutes.

3. Remove the cream mixture from the heat and pour it over the chocolate pieces.

4. Stir together until the chocolate has completely melted and the mixture is shiny and smooth.

5. Allow to cool and then chill in the fridge for an hour, until the ganache has set.

6. Use a melon baller or teaspoon to scoop the ganache into balls about an inch in diameter.

Roll each ball between your palms to smooth the edges.

7. Put a generous amount of cocoa powder in a flat baking dish or bowl and roll the truffles through the cocoa to coat them.

8. Keep chilled until ready to serve.

4

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

As I See It

Christmas 2020: sorted Christmas isn’t cancelled, says Executive Chairman Ian Bankier, and The Whisky Shop can help make this one count.

❝ We taste and savour

a whisky looking for the positives, hopefully sharing the experience with friends and loved ones. Equally this Christmas we must look for the positives and take time to savour what we have.

In these strange times, you may be entering the festive season perhaps not in the same festive mood as usual. And so, this edition of Whiskeria is our attempt to lift your spirits. All of our shops are open and reporting good things. In anticipation of early Christmas shopping, they are fully stocked and ready to go. Our online selection is bigger than ever, and we have a large team packing and dispatching your orders. In short, Christmas 2020 is sorted – look no further!

At The Whisky Shop, our chief desire is to bring to our customers something different or, indeed, unique. The great joy of shopping with us is that you will find something that you cannot get elsewhere. Playing directly to the Christmas theme we are again leading with our 24 Advent Drams and also our 12 Drams of Christmas.

And this year we’ve added Scotland in a Box – a perfect educational tool to gift, or enjoy on New Year’s Eve. All of these gift boxes contain individual miniature bottles that are great fun to hand around with coffee and mints at the dinner table. Other exclusive Whisky Shop products include The Loch Fyne range of whiskies, gins and liqueurs and the famous Glenkeir Treasures range, now in its sixteenth year.

There's lots more to choose from in the shop section of this issue, indeed something for every taste and budget, and throughout the magazine we include plenty of new releases and limited editions. We even have cocktail ingredients for some fun at home.

As I see it, Christmas this year is likely to be different, but we must find the inspiration and motivation to make it as good as ever. It can possibly be said that Christmas brings with it the burdens of tradition and even obligation. Is there an opportunity this year to do things differently, perhaps strip Christmas back to its core values?

The lead up to this Christmas might not be so frenetic as we curtail our social interaction, but will this give more time and space to appreciate and enjoy? I do hope so.

As with a good whisky, speed is not of the essence. It was not made in a hurry and it is not intended to be consumed in a hurry. We taste and savour a whisky looking for the positives, hopefully sharing the experience with friends and loved ones. Equally this Christmas we must look for the positives and take time to savour what we have.

As you pick up this magazine, look at everything we have to offer, pick something you would like, or you would like to give – and make it a good one!

Sláinte.

Ian P Bankier, Executive Chairman,

5

Win!

COMP ET IT ION

A bottle of Eagle Rare’s highly sought-after 17 Year Old. Part of the celebrated Antique Collection from Buffalo Trace, this Kentucky straight bourbon is aged in new white oak barrels with a level 4 charring for 17 years before bottling at 50.5% VOL. Released in limited quantities just once a year, you can always count on Eagle Rare 17 Year Old to be an astonishing dram – and a real winter warmer!

For your chance to win, simply visit: whiskyshop.com/whiskeria-competition Competition closes Monday 15th February 2021.

T&Cs apply. The winner will be contacted directly.

Terms & Conditions: The winner will be selected from all entries via the link stated above by midnight on 15th February 2021. The judge’s decision will be final. The competition is not open to employees of The Whisky Shop. UK entrants must be 18 years old or over to enter. International entrants must be of legal drinking age in their country of residence.

–– produced by Ascot Publishing Limited PO Box 7415 Glasgow G51 9BR –– contact enquiries@whiskyshop.com

–– commissioning editor Glenkeir Whiskies Limited –– executive producer Rhona McKeran rhona@whiskyshop.com 0141 427 2919 –– executive chairman Ian P Bankier ipb@whiskyshop.com

–– feature writers Brian Wilson Charles MacLean Gavin D Smith Rhona McKeran Natalie McLaughlin –– product photography Subliminal Creative 01236 734923

–– creative direction a visual agency emlyn@avisualagency.com –– feature photography Brian Sweeney Christina Kernohan Brendan MacNeill Christian Watson –– feature illustration Hrafnhildur Halldorsdottir Katie Smith –– feature styling Emma Duncan

The Magazine of

––

Glenkeir Whiskies Limited trades as THE WHISKY SHOP. Opinions expressed in WHISKERIA are not necessarily those of Glenkeir Whiskies Limited. Statements made and opinions expressed are done so in good faith, but shall not be relied upon by the reader.

This publication is the copyright of the publisher, ASCOT PUBLISHING LIMITED, and no part of it may be reproduced without their prior consent in writing. No responsibility is taken for the advertising material contained herein. © ASCOT PUBLISHING LIMITED.

––

Prices effective 2 November 2020.

All prices in this edition of Whiskeria are subject to change.

6

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

Contents

Winter 2020–21

11 24 26 30 34 38 42 48 55 62 71 98

New Releases | Winter 2020–21 News | Whisky business The W Club | Digital drams: not just for lockdown?

Auctions | Auctions after hours A Time in History | ̒The other̓ Charles MacLean Industry Insider | The Balvenie Distillery Visit | The Dalmore Interview | The Roca brothers Travel | London Calling Mixing It Up | Maker's Mark The Whisky Shop | Christmas gifts, stocking fillers + more Expert Tasting | Woodford Reserve Baccarat Edition

62

55 26

71

8

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

Contributors Charles MacLean —

Charles has published fourteen Scotch whisky books to date, including the standard work on whisky brands, Scotch Whisky, and the leading book on its subject, Malt Whisky, both of which were short-listed for Glenfiddich Food & Drink Awards. He was also script advisor for Ken Loach’s 2012 film The Angels’ Share and subsequently played the part of the whisky expert in the film (which he claims to be his biggest career highlight to date).

New Releases

11

Expert Tasting

98

Brian Wilson —

Gavin D Smith —

Formerly an MP, Brian held several Government Ministerial posts during his political career. He lives on the Isle of Lewis, where he pursues various business interests, notably in the energy sector. He also led the regeneration of the Harris Tweed industry and is currently Chairman of Harris Tweed Hebrides Ltd. His first love was writing, and he continues to write books, as well as opinion pieces for national newspapers.

A Time in History

Gavin is one of the world’s most prolific and respected whisky writers. He’s regularly published in a range of top magazines and has written more than a dozen books on whisky, while co-authoring many more. He is also responsible for editing and releasing the latest version of Michael Jackson’s seminal whisky publication, The Malt Whisky Companion.

34

DistilleryVisit

42

RECEIVE A COMPLIMENTARY

BLUETOOTH SPEAKER WITH YOUR PURCHASE OF OLD PULTENEY 15 YEAR OLD OR 18 YEAR OLD BUY YOUR BOTTLE AT whiskyshop.com BETWEEN 1st NOVEMBER AND 24th DECEMBER 2020 WHILE STOCKS L AST. T&CS APPLY.

10

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

MAKE IT MATTER WITH OUR EXCEPTIONAL AMERICAN WHISKEYS

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY. ©2020 Brown-Forman, Jack Daniel’s

New Releases Winter 2020–21 Reviewed by Charles MacLean

Dalmore 12 Year Old Sherry Cask Select Glenallachie 2006 #6620 Glen Scotia 11 Year Old Sherry Double Cask Bushmills 2001 Old Malt Cask Auchroisk 13 Year Old First Editions Dailuaine 2008 The Loch Fyne Craigellachie 12 Year Old The Loch Fyne Bunnahabhain 14 Year Old The Macallan Edition No.6 The Balvenie Tun 1509 Batch 7 Diageo 2020 Special Releases — Illustration: Hrafnhildur Halldorsdottir

11

12

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

New Releases

Dalmore 12 Year Old Sherry Cask Select The Whisky Shop Exclusive 70cl 12 Year Old Highland Single Malt

43% Vol £69

Deep umber with magenta lights; viscous. A mellow nose, rich with promise – the top note is of sherry liqueur chocolates, with a trace of powdered ginger, caramel and orange peel. A smooth, soft, mouth-filling texture and a lightly sweet taste, drying elegantly, with dark chocolate parma violet creams, to a medium length finish. A perfect digestif, perilously easy to drink neat!

“A mellow nose, rich with promise… with a trace of powdered ginger, caramel and orange peel.

The doyen of master blenders, Richard Paterson, again displays his profound knowledge of the effects of secondary maturation in ex-wine casks, but unlike his super-expensive and extremely limited releases of The Dalmore at great age, the 12 Year Old Sherry Cask Select is more generally available – but frankly as gorgeous as the ancient creations.

As with his super-premium malts, the primary maturation has been for ten years in American white oak ex-bourbon casks.

In this case, the secondary maturation in ex-sherry casks includes “three different styles of aged oloroso sherry casks, balancing nutty flavours with sweet Pedro Ximénez influence… From the world’s finest bodegas and wineries… expertly curated to create a sumptuous and layered

whisky of legendary finesse.”

Richard describes his creation as: “Caramelised orange, ginger and sultanas, laced with honey [on the nose]. Dark chocolate and crushed almonds with a dusting of cinnamon [on the palate], finishing with sweet mango, panna cotta and lemon sponge cake.”

Unusually, indeed uniquely in my experience, my sample bottle was accompanied by the ingredients for making a very special version of the classic Old Fashioned cocktail.

The leading cocktail writer, Simon Difford, describes the traditional Old Fashioned as “…the primordial drink…

It follows the classic cocktail formula, as laid down in 1806: spirit, a bit of sugar, a bit of water and bitters… for the first

several decades of its life, the drink went by the name simply of ‘Whiskey Cocktail’.”

The Dalmore Old Fashioned is more sophisticated, and more sumptuous.

To 50ml Dalmore 12 Year Old Sherry Cask Select add 10ml orgeat syrup (made from almonds) and a dash of Aztec chocolate bitters. Stir well over ice in an Old Fashioned glass and garnish with an orange twist. Delicious, if you like a sweet cocktail; my own tasting panel agreed that 5ml of orgeat syrup and a double dash of bitters was best!

13

Glenallachie 2006 #6620 The W Club Exclusive 70cl 14 Year Old Speyside Single Malt

60.2% Vol £99

Bright ruby in hue, polished rosewood; moderate beading.

Considerable nose-prickle to start with, gradually opening to reveal cherry liqueur chocolate, a fleeting suggestion of parma violets then a hardwood base polished with fragrant wax. A big, creamy texture and a complex taste which starts sweet and finishes with bitter chocolate and spice, long and warming. A splendid digestif.

“Cherry liqueur chocolate… parma violets then a hardwood base polished with fragrant wax

Glenallachie Distillery was commissioned in 1967 by Mackinlay, McPherson & Company, a subsidiary of Scottish Newcastle Breweries. It was designed by William Delme Evans, the leading distillery architect of the day, who had also designed Jura Distillery for the same company in 1960. Not only did he design the buildings – in a tasteful 1960s style – but all the plant as well.

In 1985, Scottish Newcastle Breweries sold Mackinlay, McPherson & Company and its distilleries to Invergordon Distillers and Glenallachie was mothballed in 1987 and sold to Campbell Distillers, a subsidiary of Pernod Ricard, two years later. They doubled the number of stills to four, and resumed production in 1989.

Glenallachie was always a workhorse, supplying spirit for blending, and although

small amounts of its single malt were released in the early 1980s (at 12 years old), the first official bottling was in 2005; a cask strength edition from 1989.

Then in 2017, to the surprise of many in the whisky industry, Pernod Ricard sold Glenallachie to a consortium of businessmen led by the whisky master and legend, Billy Walker, who had bought BenRiach (in 2004), GlenDronach (in 2008) and Glenglassaugh (in 2013) – releasing outstanding whiskies from each, before selling all three distilleries to Brown Forman (owner of Jack Daniels) for £285 million in 2016.

A trained chemist, an experienced blender, a former director of Burn Stewart Distillers, a highly astute businessman and a true Master Distiller, Billy Walker

might also be described as a consummate ‘resurrectionist’. He did not let the grass grow beneath his feet and bought Glenallachie within a year of selling his previous distilleries, changing the brand name to GlenAllachie. He has already waved his magic wand – or rather, sought out exceptional casks of mature whisky, re-racking and finishing as he judges best – and released a tranche of outstanding whiskies, with a core range of 10 Year Old (cask strength), 12 Year Old, 15 Year Old, 18 Year Old and 25 Year Old and many expressions finished in ex-wine casks.

This cask has been bottled exclusively for The W Club and only 632 bottles exist.

14

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

New Releases

Glen Scotia 11 Year Old Sherry Double Cask 70cl 11 Year Old Campbeltown Single Malt

54.1% Vol £59.95

Deep gold with amber lights.

Very good beading; light prickle. A faintly vinous top note (old Muscat), with a suggestion of lemon peel, developing into soft fudge.

More maritime with a drop of water. A soft mouthfeel and a sweet then salty taste with a touch of lemon, finishing long, with warming spice and leaving an aftertaste of a seaside rock pool.

“A suggestion of lemon peel, developing into soft fudge… leaving an aftertaste of a seaside rock pool.

The handsomely designed carton reads: “Limited Edition Cask Strength. Exceptionally Rare. Aged 11 Years. Sherry Double Cask Finish, in the Finest Oloroso and Pedro Ximénez Casks. Natural Colour. Ignabis Precibus Fortuna Repugnat.”

The Latin is the motto of Campbeltown and loosely translates as ‘Fortune helps those who help themselves’ – so appropriate for a distillery which celebrates the town of its creation with every drop.

As readers will know, Campbeltown was described as ‘the whisky capital of the world’ in the late 19th century, when there were over twenty distilleries there and Greenlees Brothers’ Lorne Highland Whisky became the leading brand of Scotch in London during the 1870s.

The learned historian, Angus Martin, a native of Campbeltown, writes in his recent book, Campbeltown Whisky: An Encyclopaedia (2020), that the partnership of James and Samuel Greenlees, who were from a leading Campbeltown distilling family, was “the greatest success story in the history of the Campbeltown whisky industry.”

The brothers founded the firm in 1871 –“the year of the hopeless marriage of the 8th Duke of Argyll’s son, John, Marquis of Lorne, to Princess Louise, the artistic daughter of Queen Victoria” – and named the brand after the Marquis, launching it on the day of the royal wedding.

When historian Alfred Barnard visited Campleltown in 1886 there were 29 distilleries in the burgh; by 1930 only three remained, one of them Glen Scotia.

Subsequently it passed through several owners, was mothballed in 1986, then was kept going for only a couple of weeks a year by a team from Springbank Distillery, before going into part-time production in 2007.

In 2014 its fortunes changed dramatically for the better when the distillery’s holding company, Loch Lomond Distillers Ltd, was bought by group of experienced distillers with the support of a private equity company. Glen Scotia has been thoroughly restored, upgraded and expanded, and many new expressions of its excellent malt whisky have been released.

15

Bushmills 2001 The Whisky Shop Exclusive 70cl 19 Year Old Irish Whiskey

49% Vol £199

Amber in hue – faded mahogany.

Good beading. An unusual nose: the top notes are faintly ‘grapey’ to start, then dried fruits (Christmas cake mix and maraschino cherries), with almonds and crème Anglais, on a base of sanded hardwood. A mouth-filling texture and a sweet taste, with desiccated coconut in mid-palate, drying into a warming medium-length finish.

Bottled exclusively for The Whisky Shop, this 19-year-old Bushmills has been finished in a ‘feuillette’ red wine cask.

I thought ‘feuillette’ was a layered flaky pastry, but I have now discovered from a learned friend that it is also a small French wine barrel, “of 114 litres capacity in Burgundy, 132 litres in Chablis.”

Bushmills claims to be the oldest whisky distillery in the world, based on the fact that on 20th April 1608, Sir Thomas Phillips was granted a license by the Lord Deputy (King James VI and I’s representative in Ireland) “within the countie of Colerane… or within the territorie called the Rowte, in co. Antrim, by himselfe or his servauntes, to make, drawe and distill such and soe great quantities of aquavite, usquabagh and aqua composita, as he or his assinges shall think fitt.”

Incontrovertible, you may think.

In truth, the Lord Deputy granted such licenses to loyalists all over Ireland – it was a useful way of applying a royal monopoly to distilling, which had hitherto been widespread and uncontrolled, and also a grand way of earning either cash payments or ‘royalties’ (this is where the term originated).

Actually, there are references to distilling in this part of Co. Antrim in 1494 – the year of the first written reference to distilling in Scotland. What’s more, the man who may have brought the secrets of distilling to Scotland in 1300, Fergus MacBeatha (or Beaton), came from “O’Cahanes country, otherwise called Colerane”… but that is another story.

This single cask release is part of Bushmills’ Causeway Collection, inspired by the natural wonder that is The Giant’s Causeway, a few short miles from the distillery. The collection seeks to celebrate “extremely rare and unique cask finishes” – with only 160 bottles of this particular expression produced.

“Christmas cake mix and maraschino cherries… with desiccated coconut in mid-palate.

16

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

New Releases

Old Malt Cask Auchroisk 13 Year Old 70cl 13 Year Old Speyside Single Malt

50% Vol £95

Deep amber. A mellow, rounded nose, with fruity top notes led by peaches (peach flan with crème Anglais) and baked apple (French apple tart), with underlying fresh apple scents, lightly acidic, on a very light oak base. A drop of water raises waxy apple peel. A soft mouthfeel and a sweet then lightly bitter taste, leading to a mediumlength finish, with some spice at reduced strength and an aftertaste of green apple.

“Fruity top notes led by peaches (peach flan with crème Anglais) and baked apple (French apple tart)…

Auchroisk is pronounced ‘ath-rusk’ and apparently means ‘the ford of the red stream’. The challenge of pronouncing the name persuaded its owner to brand it as The Singleton, a word once used to describe single casks of malt whisky at auction, implying unusual quality.

The large distillery was built between 1972 and 1974 by Justerini & Brooks to supply fillings for J&B Rare and other blends belonging to J&B’s holding company, Independent Distillers & Vintners (IDV), although The Singleton single malt was released in 1986, bottled at 12 years old.

Its creator, J&B’s Master Blender Jim Milne, was one of the pioneers of wood finishing, maturing the spirit for ten years in refill American oak ex-bourbon casks, then finishing a proportion of them in ex-sherry butts for two years. The result garnered a host of international awards.

In the 1970s, and for decades before, it was believed that the process water played a crucial role in the flavour of the whisky. The site, ten miles west of Keith, was chosen on account of the availability of a first-rate source of water named Dorie’s Well. IDV wanted to produce a whisky similar in style to that of their Glen Spey Distillery – light and nutty – and, a year before committing to the site, tankered water from Dorie’s Well to Glen Spey for trials.

IDV was absorbed by Grand Metropolitan in 1972 and merged with Guinness to become Diageo in 1997.

Auchroisk 10 Year Old was released as part of that company’s Flora & Fauna series and ‘The Singleton’ name languished until it was applied to malts from Glen Ord, Dufftown and Glendullan Distilleries.

This single cask release is from the independent bottler, Hunter Laing – bottled at 50% VOL and without chill-filtration, exclusively for The Whisky Shop. I have never seen so dark an expression of Auchroisk, nor a richer aroma.

First Editions Dailuaine 2008 70cl 11 Year Old Speyside Single Malt

46% Vol £82

Deep amber; European oak refill cask. The first impression is rich and robust: scrambled egg, then sticky malt loaf (with sultanas), a suggestion of treacle toffee and even of crystalline sugar in espresso coffee. The taste translates the aroma well: creamy texture and a sweet taste with a hint of dark chocolate and cordite, and a medium to long finish.

“Scrambled egg, then sticky malt loaf (with sultanas), a suggestion of treacle toffee…

Dailuaine Distillery was built in 1851 by a local farmer in a hollow by the Carron Burn – the name translates as ‘the green vale’ – at the northern end of Ballindalloch Estate.

Communications were much improved in 1863 when the Strathspey Railway reached Carron. A short spur line was built to allow goods to be run down to Carron Station; an 0-4-0 saddle locomotive, built in Kilmarnock in 1897, operated until 1939 when it was replaced by another, and when the Speyside line closed in 1967 this engine went first to the Railway Museum in Aviemore then to Aberfeldy Distillery, where it remains.

The founder’s son, Thomas Mackenzie, rebuilt the distillery in 1884 to designs by Charles Cree Doig of Elgin, the leading distillery architect and the inventor of the ‘Doig Ventilator’ – the pagoda roof to the malt kiln, which rapidly became the leitmotif of malt distilleries. Dailuaine was the first distillery to have this elegant and practical feature, and when historian Alfred Barnard visited in 1887, while researching

his monumental The Whisky Distilleries of the United Kingdom, he noted that: “…nearly the whole of the distillery has been rebuilt on a larger and more modern style, and the work now contains all the latest improvements in the art of distilling.”

He devoted seven pages in his book to Dailuaine, which was now one of the largest distilleries in the Highlands.

In 1891, Mackenzie & Co became a limited company and merged with Talisker Distillery in 1898 (in which Mackenzie had a substantial interest). On his death in 1915, without an heir, Daluaine-Talisker Ltd. was bought by a consortium of the company’s leading customers, Buchanan, Dewar, Walker and the Distillers Company Limited, so passed to the DCL (now Diageo) in ‘The Big Amalgamation’ of 1925.

Ranked ‘first class’ by blenders, Dailuaine was always a filling malt, indeed it was not bottled as a single malt by its proprietor until 1991. This bottling by Hunter Laing is from a single cask.

18

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

New Releases

The Loch Fyne Craigellachie 12 Year Old 50cl 12 Year Old Speyside Single Malt

59% Vol £80

Harvest gold in hue, with good beading. A mellow nosefeel, dry overall. The first impression on the nose is of potato crisps – lightly savoury. Gradually this opens to present sweet parsnip, and also some dried fruits (sultana and orange peel).

The base notes are earthy.

A drop of water introduces chocolate. A creamy texture and a sweet and savoury taste, with milk chocolate mid-palate, lingering in the aftertaste.

“Potato crisps… sweet parsnip, and also some dried fruits (sultana and orange peel).

Craigellachie-Glenlivet Distillery was built in 1891, designed by Charles Doig, the leading distillery architect, and commissioned by a consortium of blenders led by Peter Mackie and Alexander Edward.

They were a formidable duo. Mackie owned Lagavulin Distillery and launched the White Horse blend the same year. A contemporary described him as “one third genius, one third megalomaniac and one third eccentric.” Among his eccentricities he invented a ‘power flour’ called B.B.M. (Bran, Bone and Muscle) mixed to a secret recipe under the boardroom at Craigellachie, which all employees were required to use at home.

Alexander Edward had inherited the lease of Benrinnes Distillery and built Aultmore Distillery in 1896. He also built much of the village of Craigellachie, including its well-known hotel, and was later involved in Tobermory and Benromach Distilleries.

The distillery was to provide fillings for the White Horse blend, which sold in export markets until 1901. Edward had tried to introduce it to his home market earlier, but this had not been a success. In 1896 he told the shareholders in Mackie & Company: “four years ago [we] put on the home market a brand of the highest age and quality, second to nothing that had ever been offered to the public. We expected to make a profit, but had been disappointed… owing to the ignorance of the English public in regard to quality. The result was that we dropped nearly £30,000 in that venture.”

I have been told that some Craigellachie single malt was available before the First World War, and popular in army messes, but only in 1990 that it was bottled at 14 years old by its proprietor, United Distillers, in their Flora & Fauna series. Mackie & Co, now named White Horse Distillers, had joined the Distillers Company Limited in 1927; DCL (now Diageo) sold Craigellachie together with three other distilleries to Bacardi in 1998. At last the new owner, trading as John Dewar & Sons, released four new expressions of this distinguished malt, at 13, 17, 19 and 23 years.

This particular single cask expression has been bottled at 12 years by Loch Fyne Whiskies.

19

The Loch Fyne Bunnahabhain 14 Year Old 50cl 14 Year Old Islay Single Malt

50% Vol £95

Deep amber in hue; good beading. A rich nose with light prickle. The top notes are maritime (salt crystals, but also cordage, sail cloth, varnished wood) with some dry fruit beneath. A mouthfilling texture, and a sweetish taste, drying rapidly, with a sprinkle of salt. Dark chocolate in mid-palate and a suggestion of smoke in the long, warming finish.

This flavour profile is reduced with a drop of water. A lovely example of the make.

Bunnahabhain was first bottled as a single malt in 1979, although the distillery had been built on the north coast of Islay in 1881/82. Its founder was William Robertson of the Glasgow firm of brokers and blenders, Robertson & Baxter, in partnership with the Greenlees Brothers from Campbeltown. In 1887 he went on to buy Glenrothes Distillery on Speyside and merged the two as Highland Distilleries, now Edrington, although Bunnahabhain Distillery was unexpectedly sold to Burn Stewart Distillers in 2003 and is now owned by the Distell Group of South Africa, who are currently undertaking major refurbishment there.

The spirit was to be used for blending and was to be only lightly peated – one of the reasons for choosing the remote and inaccessible site was the availability of a freshwater spring to minimise any peat influence in the process water – but it has an Islay character all of its own, and this bottling from Loch Fyne Whiskies is an outstanding example.

When the first navvies’ huts appeared on the shore in May 1881, the surroundings were bleak indeed. A stony beach stretched the length of Bunnahabhain Bay; desolate moorland began immediately behind and rose steadily to the horizon; there was not a tree in sight, let alone a human habitation.

The site had to be levelled; stone quarried for the sizeable distillery buildings, the extensive warehouses and the village which would accommodate the workforce and excisemen. A strong pier had to be built out into the fast-flowing Sound of Islay, and a mile-long road (some of it up the steep slope, almost a cliff, behind the distillery) was also required to connect the site to the outside world via Islay’s singletrack roads.

It will be interesting to see what changes have been made to the fabric of the distillery, which was planned to reopen later this year, but I hope no changes have been made to the delectable whisky!

“Dark chocolate in mid-palate and a suggestion of smoke in the long, warming finish.

20

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

New Releases

The Macallan Edition No.6 70cl — Highland Single Malt

48.6% Vol £98.50

Deep gold with amber lights.

The top notes are an inviting complex of dried fruits (apricot, pear, sultana, a trace of orange peel), supported by powdered ginger, nutmeg and allspice, on a base of fresh malt loaf. A drop of water rounds off all these aromas. A creamy, mouth-filling texture and a very sweet taste, with a warming finish of ginger and a cool, menthol aftertaste. Not so sweet at reduced strength, with a fresh, sour note.

“Dried fruits, supported by powdered ginger, nutmeg and allspice, on a base of fresh malt loaf.

This is the final bottling in The Macallan's highly regarded Edition series of annual limited releases, designed to “showcase the diversity of casks used to mature the spirit and to demonstrate the company’s commitment to sourcing only the very best.”

Every expression in the series has been admirable at revealing the wood types used in each whisky’s construction, and Edition No.6 is no exception: 26% hogsheads (both first- and second-fill), 74% butts (both American and European oak), all casks sherry seasoned. Like all Macallans, the whisky is of natural colour.

The inspiration for it came from the lovely landscape surrounding the distillery, and in particular the legendary River Spey which bounds the Macallan Estate to the east. The ‘Easter Elchies Beat’, owned by the distillery, is one of the most famous salmon beats on the river and is handsomely tended and ably managed by the estate’s long-serving ghillie, Robert Mitchell, who is quoted on the carton: “Our fishing guests have an exceptional experience when we equip them with Hardy’s finest fishing tackle to challenge themselves against ‘The King of Fish’, the Atlantic salmon.” Macallan have collaborated with Hardy of Alnwick, to support the essential preservation work of the Atlantic Salmon Trust.

The House of Hardy has been described as “the Rolls Royce of fishing tackle makers.”

The business was founded by two brothers in 1872 and has consistently pioneered developments in rod and reel making, and now a whole range of related goods. My first job as an advertising copywriter was writing a brochure for their revolutionary ‘Zane Grey’ big game fishing reels in 1981!

The Atlantic Salmon Trust, based in Perth, exists to halt the dramatic decline of wild Atlantic salmon stocks and to safeguard the future of this iconic species by seeking to understand what has caused this. Wild salmon have declined by 70% in the past 25 years and the situation is now critical: for every 100 salmon that leave our rivers, only five return. A noble cause to support.

Steven Bremner, The Macallan’s Whisky Maker, says of Edition No.6: “We wanted to create a structure that will deliver a multifaceted experience… a deep and rewarding flavour.” I think they have succeeded.

21

The Balvenie Tun 1509 Batch 7 70cl — Speyside Single Malt

52.4% Vol £300

Deep amber in hue; very good beading; refill Spanish oak, ex-sherry casks. A mild nosefeel, dry overall. The top notes are of dried fruits (principally sultanas, with a trace of dates) and kitchen spices (nutmeg, allspice) on a base of malt loaf with Nutella spread. A smooth texture and a sweet taste, with candied orange peel, lingering milk chocolate and Meltis fruit jelly sweets, backed by ginger and spice.

“Kitchen spices (nutmeg, allspice) on a base of malt loaf with Nutella spread.

Balvenie’s Tun 1509 series was introduced in 2014 to replace the company’s earlier Tun 1402, which began as a distillery exclusive in 2010 and sold out immediately.

For both series, David Stewart MBE, Balvenie’s Malt Master, selected a number of casks of varying volumes, strengths and ages, then disgorged them into a large marrying tun – hence the name. There is no significance in the number: tuns 1402 and 1509 were simply the most convenient in Balvenie’s famous Warehouse 24.

To create the seventh batch of Tun 1509, Stewart chose 21 casks – four ex-

bourbon American oak barrels, three American oak refill casks, seven American oak hogsheads and ten European oak sherry butts. All were transferred to Tun 1509 for three months to marry before bottling. Marrying allows the different whiskies to mingle together and create a unique expression of The Balvenie which is – as blenders say – greater than the sum of its constituent parts.

As with previous editions, the carton of Tun 1509 Batch 7 is decorated with a flavour wheel assessing the finished whisky, in relation to five flavour groups, and the

reverse of the tube lists all the casks used, by cask and wood type, and the flavour values ascribed to each.

This is magnificently geeky! It allows us malt enthusiasts to explore in depth the flavour of the whisky and to compare notes with the Masters! I know of no other malt which provides such detailed information about the cask types which have gone into a vatting. Bravo, Balvenie!

22

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

Dalwhinnie 30 Year Old

New Releases

Diageo 2020 Special Releases

70cl 30 Year Old Highland Single Malt

51.9% Vol £550

Deep gold, from American oak refill casks (filled in 1989). A mellow nosefeel, slightly dry. The aroma is reserved, dusty and somewhat closed to start with, gradually revealing moorland scents and dried herbs, with a subtle trace of butterscotch and boiled sweets, on a pencil box base.

The mouthfeel is creamy and slightly astringent; the taste sweet with a long, warming finish and some spice in the aftertaste.

Cragganmore 20 Year Old 70cl 20 Year Old Speyside Single Malt

Diageo has been releasing limited amounts of malt whisky from selected distilleries in its Special Releases series since 2001. The bottles’ reputation for quality, combined with their rarity has pleased both consumers and collectors.

Since 2019 their slogan has been ‘Rare by Nature’, and the packaging reflects the natural surroundings of each distillery.

Unusually, 2020's selection of malts is the same as 2019's, but now explores unusual age points, experimental maturations and finishes (including Diageo’s first-ever release finished in pot still Caribbean rum casks, the Talisker 8 Year Old). All have been chosen by Master Blender, Dr Craig Wilson, who writes: “I have had the unique opportunity to re-express the ‘Rare by Nature’ theme in

this year’s fresh collection of eight exquisite single malts. Each one has been selected to show a new and vibrant side of its distillery’s natural character. I hope you are fascinated by their discovery, just as I have been by their creation.”

He continues: “For those who enjoy spicy flavours, my recommendation would be to try our Cardhu [partly matured in new oak], and for those who favour rich, intense and smooth flavours my choice would be Mortlach 21 Year Old [finished in exsherry casks]. If you are curious about discovering something very rare, the Pittyvaich - the only ‘ghost’ distillery in our Special Releases Collection this year is an unforgettable dram [finished in ex-bourbon casks].”

55.8% Vol £130

Deep gold with golden syrup lights.

Matured in a mix of American oak refill and new, freshly charred casks.

A mellow nose-feel, with considerable prickle. A complex aroma, with fruity top notes (ripe pear, Ogen melon, green banana), with soft leather notes beneath (kid gloves), on a faintly sanded hardwood base. Sweet overall but with savoury undertones.

A creamy mouthfeel, finishing long, dry and very spicy. A little water increases the smooth texture and tames the chilli finish somewhat.

23

Cardhu 11 Year Old 70cl 11 Year Old Speyside Single Malt

Pittyvaich 30 Year Old 56% Vol £85

70cl 30 Year Old Speyside Single Malt

The Singleton 17 Year Old 50.8% Vol £400

70cl 17 Year Old Speyside Single Malt

55.1% Vol £110

Pale gold in colour, from a mix of new, refill and ex-bourbon American oak casks. A mellow nose-feel, with light prickle. Fresh and acidic, with fruity top notes (green apples, green grapes, pineapple, lemon peel), gradually becoming sweeter, on a faintly mossy base. A drop of water increases the acidity. A creamy texture and a sweet then acidic taste, with traces of fondant in mid-palate and white pepper in the finish. Slightly sweeter at reduced strength, with enhanced pepper.

The colour of polished brass – American oak (refill) casks, finished in first-fill ex-bourbon. The first impression on the nose is unctuous: fruity and oily, with ripe tropical fruits (papaya, pineapple, pear, banana) on a base of fragrant oil.

A drop of water increases all of these aromas. A lightly oily texture, mouth-filling and lightly mouthdrying. The taste is sweet overall, with light acidity, drying politely in the finish. Sweeter and smoother at reduced strength.

Chablis, with lemon lights, matured exclusively in American oak refill casks. A mellow nose-feel, with light prickle. A scent of honeycomb (spun honey, but also a trace of beeswax).

Beneath this is a faint floral note (wallflowers), on an earthy base. A little water softens the nose and adds pear drops. A creamy texture, slightly teeth-coating (beeswax again) and a sweet taste overall.

A warming medium-length finish, with white pepper, becoming chilli in the aftertaste. A drop of water tames the chilli-spice somewhat.

Talisker 8 Year Old

Lagavulin 12 Year Old

Mortlach 21 Year Old

70cl 8 Year Old Island Single Malt

57.9% Vol £90

Pale gold with greenish lights.

American oak refill casks, finished in pot still Caribbean rum casks.

A light nose-feel with considerable spice. The top notes are maritime (dry seaweed, crystal salt, iodine), with sweet molasses below, on a smoky base, with traces of charred meat.

A drop of water increases the maritime character and reduces the sweet notes. A soft, smooth texture and a big taste – salty and lightly sweet, finishing smoky with the typical Talisker chilli pepper catch in the back.

70cl 12 Year Old Islay Single Malt

56.4% Vol £125

Pale gold, white wine. A small batch of American oak refill casks. A mild nose-feel with light prickle. The top notes are unusually ashy for Lagavulin, but still with tell-tale notes of linseed oil. Gradually fruity notes emerge (acid drops, pear drops) and a suggestion of the sea. A drop of water reduces all of these but doesn’t change them. A soft, smooth texture and a big taste – sweeter than expected and much smokier in the long finish, with a very salty aftertaste.

70cl 21 Year Old Speyside Single Malt

56.9% Vol £575

Deep gold with amber lights. American oak refill casks, finished in Pedro Ximénez and oloroso sherry-seasoned casks. A mellow, rounded nose-feel with light spice. The first impression is of freshly baked buttered scones, possibly spread with lime marmalade.

A big, mouth-filling texture – mild for its strength. The taste is sweet overall with a savoury finish, and a surprising kick of chilli pepper as you swallow. This lingers in the long warming aftertaste.

24

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

News

Whisky business

Liquid gold Bowmore… Black Bowmore Bowmore and Aston Martin have bottled a whisky so exceptionally rare that even James Bond may be tempted to stray from his vodka martini. The release has been named Black Bowmore DB5 1964 and celebrates “a definitive moment in history” for both Bowmore and Aston Martin.

For Bowmore, 1964 saw the distillery enter the modern age of distilling, with the arrival of a new boiler that replaced coal fires with steam. It was the first distillation from this new boiler that produced the spirit to make Black Bowmore – one of the rarest and most sought-after single malt whiskies ever created. Equally as important for Aston Martin, 1964 was the year that the luxury car manufacturer’s DB5 model made its on-screen debut as the vehicle of choice for James Bond in Goldfinger.

Bottled at 49.6% VOL, the whisky is described as having “intense flavours of mango, passion fruit and acacia honey interwoven with a powerful combination of coffee and tobacco smoke” and will cost you a cool £50,000 – if you can get your hands on one of the 27 bottles that exist, that is!

Investing in whisky casks could be more profitable than precious metals, digital currencies or shares, new data reveals.

The report, backed by whisky broker Cask 88, Braeburn Whisky and data collection firm Whiskystats suggests that someone investing $100,000 in whisky casks in July 2018 would have assets worth close to $160,000 by the end of June 2020 – a larger return than those investing in the popular digital currency Bitcoin, or even gold.

“Whisky casks are a stable investment because they have intrinsic value,” explains Samuel Gordon, Sales Director at Braeburn Whisky. “They’re not affected by the same volatile swings that traditional investments are, which makes them an ideal option in the current climate.”

25

Redder than red The Macallan have introduced a range of remarkably rare single malt whiskies inspired by the colour red and its deep and long-standing significance for the distillery.

The red thread begins with Alexander Reid, the farmer and teacher who founded The Macallan in 1824. His surname means ‘the red one’ in Scots and was originally associated with red hair.

In 1903, owner Roderick Kemp launched The Macallan Choice Old range. It was reportedly shipped in cases labelled with distinctive red print to distinguish it from The Macallan’s existing whiskies, which featured black labelling.

Almost eight decades later, Allan Shiach, chairman of The Macallan at that time, tied a red ribbon around The Macallan’s then oldest vintages, dated 1938, 1940 and 1950.

Inspired by these characters, and honouring the mastery and provenance of generations of pioneers, The Macallan’s new collection includes ongoing aged expressions of 40, 50 and 60 Years Old, as well as three high aged guest releases of 71, 74 and 78 Years Old single malt whiskies. The 74 and 78 Years Old are two of the oldest releases of The Macallan to date, with all six expressions available to purchase at The Whisky Shop.​

Fresh starts on Islay Pierrick Guillaume starts a new role as Distillery Manager at Lagavulin on Islay, moving on from his manager position at fellow Islay distillery Caol Ila, and hailing his new role as “a great honour.” Well-equipped for the job, Guillaume has worked at Diageo for eight years and has also held roles at Mortlach and Talisker Distilleries.

Samuel Hale succeeds Guillaume as Distillery Manager of Caol Ila, leaving his manager post at Diageo’s Port Ellen maltings, while, just along the road, Colin Gordon joins Ardbeg as its next Distillery Manager. Gordon has previously held both manager gigs at Lagavulin Distillery and Port Ellen maltings and replaces Mickey Heads, who is retiring after 13 years in the role.

Heads said: “I’ve known Colin for a long time and I can’t think of a more worthy successor.”

We’re sure they’ll all still meet for a dram at the pub!

New stills on the horizon Plans have been announced for two new distilleries in Scotland to open their doors in 2022. The first is Wolfcraig Distillery in Stirlingshire, which is the brainchild of Michael Lunn, former Chief Executive of Whyte & Mackay. The £15 million project will incorporate a distillery and private tasting room, alongside a restaurant and bar.

200 miles west, on the Isle of Benbecula, father-and-son duo, Angus MacMillan and Angus MacMillan Jr, have submitted plans to build a £6.5 million distillery in the north of the island.

Founders of Uist Distilling Company, the MacMillans are proposing to build a distillery with vast glass walls, so visitors can enjoy romantic views of the rugged coast.

26

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

The W Club

Digital drams: not just for lockdown?

The W Club’s Natalie McLaughlin looks at how Covid-19 has forced drammers to get creative, and if virtual whisky tastings are here to stay.

Illustration: Katie Smith

For many members, invitations to whisky tastings are what seal the deal in joining The W Club. In pre-pandemic times, W Clubbers were able to stand shoulder to shoulder in their local branch of The Whisky Shop for a chat and a dram or two (or five!) as a way of meeting and socialising with like-minded whisky fans.

Since March 2020, however, the coronavirus pandemic's impact on the whisky industry has forced the cancellation of highly anticipated events around the world – and in-store tastings at The W Club were no exception. But like so many others, we’ve been determined to not let lockdown stop W Clubbers from enjoying the highlight of their membership. So, while instore tastings are still on pause, the wonders of technology have allowed us to bring back the joy of sharing great drams with great company, from the comfort (and safety) of our own couches. virtual tastings: how do they work?

We’ve been hosting our virtual W Club tastings through the online platform Zoom – probably the most popular video-meeting software being used during the pandemic. Easy to operate, Zoom offers the option of ‘gallery view’ mode, allowing members to raise a glass to everyone taking part in the tasting. Weeks before an event is held, an email is sent out

to all W Club members notifying them about upcoming tastings and when tickets will go live online. ‘Tickets’ are in fact deliciously boozy tasting packs filled with a curated line-up of 3cl drams, together with added extras that may take the form of food pairings or branded trinkets.

Tasting packs are delivered directly to members’ doorsteps, and a link to the Zoom meeting is sent to their inboxes, where they can tune in with their drams without having to install anything beforehand. The only difficult part in the lead up to the tasting is resisting the urge to crack open the whiskies before the night of the event! let the tasting commence Drams at the ready, members are expertly guided through their whisky line-up by a Brand Ambassador, with the invitation to switch their microphones on to compare notes after sampling each one. Alternatively, members have the option of using a chat box to get involved in the conversation, and although we’ve missed seeing your faces, anyone feeling shy can choose to keep their camera switched off, with the option to turn it on at any time.

“As someone who is new to whisky, the prospect of going to a tasting event with older,

more knowledgeable drinkers would have been a bit intimidating for me,” explained W Club Member Victoria when we asked the Club for feedback.

“Zoom tastings have allowed me to learn more about whisky at my own pace and in my own environment.”

We’ll drink to that! first up: fettercairn Back in autumn we kicked off the first of our W Club virtual tastings with Highland malt-maker Fettercairn and their UK Brand Specialist, Andrew Lennie. Members were sent a quartet of delicious drams (Fettercairn 12, 16, 22 and 28 Year Old) with a mango & whisky marshmallow and can of Dash Peach Water added in for good measure – the can of peach water to be drunk as a palate cleanser with the 22 Year Old, not as a mixer, much to the relief of some panicked faces on-screen!

Every Tuesday night in September, Andrew chatted all things Fettercairn, with a total of 100 W Club members tuning in throughout the month. Our first tastings were a hit! The W Club inbox was inundated with a flurry of emails from members thanking Andrew for hosting the event and introducing them to a range that hadn't been on their radar before, with 1 in 4 members even grabbing a bottle of their favourite Fettercairn from The Whisky Shop after their tasting. We welcomed W Club

27

28

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

The W Club

❝ The wonders of

technology have allowed us to bring back the joy of sharing great drams with great company, from the comfort (and safety) of our own couches.

members from near and far, with members tuning in from Texas, Canada, Poland and Taiwan: a first for any W Club event.

During a chat with Andrew after our last tasting, we considered the magical and farreaching aspect of virtual tastings: a new way for Brand Ambassadors to connect with whisky fans from all over the world. “Of course, it doesn’t compare to being able to travel and meet people in person and share the whisky-drinking experience together,” Andrew remarked, “but it has forced us to find memorable ways to showcase the personalities of the whiskies via creative tasting packs and unique storytelling.”

While we agree virtual events can’t replace the atmosphere of the real thing – the wonderful buzz of excited chatter and clinking of glasses! – during these strange times, something has to be said for being able to explore new whiskies from the safety of our sofas, with people we may not have met outside of our own bubbles. are digital drams here to stay?

Under the umbrella of what counts as the ‘new normal’, we reckon virtual tastings will be sticking around – for a little while longer anyway. And our members agree. Due to increased demand, at the time of writing, we’ve been running our October tastings with GlenAllachie, with over 100 members sampling a line-up of sherried drams. Tasting packs include a GlenAllachie-branded Glencairn glass so that members can sip along in style, with UK Sales Manager Ben Chambers hosting each event. Ben reckons virtual tastings have now become a vital part of his role. “Obviously there are some limitations as it is a little more difficult to engage a virtual tasting in discussion,” says Ben, “but these sessions enable us to still reach a wide audience both at home and globally, helping us to take the GlenAllachie spirit to the world.”

What’s been more surprising from our members’ feedback is the demand for Zoom tastings to continue even when in-store tastings return. “I'd love it if The W Club continued with events like this in the future, even after the pandemic,” said Richard from Gateshead. “They give a different dynamic to local tastings.” Members are also keen for The W Club to offer a ‘Zoom option’ for all future events, which would reduce whisky-tasting FOMO for those who normally can’t attend tastings in person.

With this in mind, we’ve organised a calendar of Zoom events for the rest of 2020, with some big names joining us including Highland Park, Maker's Mark and The Dalmore.

To be kept in the loop with these events, make sure you're signed up to our W Club emails – and sign up to the club if you haven’t already, of course!

Our next virtual tasting is with Maker's Mark, taking place on Tuesday 24th November.

Visit whiskyshop.com/club to book tickets or to join The W Club.

Knowledge Bar Virtual whisky tasting 101

Booked a virtual tasting and unsure of how to prepare? Follow our top tips to optimise your Scotch-on-the-sofa experience!

1. Pour a pre-dram Yes, really! The first sip of neat whisky is always the biggest shock to the system, so grab a small dram to warm up your palate before getting stuck in.

2. Pre-pour your samples If time permits (and you have enough glassware!), pour your line-up of drams around half an hour before the tasting is due to start, covering each glass with a piece of paper. Let those whiskies breathe!

3. Plate-up some pairings If you really want to go all out, have a plate of treats ready to pair with your drams – we recommend chocolate, cheese, or bread (or all three!).

29

30

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

Auctions

Auctions after hours With over 20 years’ experience working at The Whisky Shop and expert knowledge to boot, Inverness Store Manager Scott Dunn is keeping the shop’s doors open for free whisky auction consultations in the north.

Hi Scott, you’ve been with The Whisky Shop for more than 20 years.

That’s quite a career – and a lot of whisky!

Tell us about the new auctions service at the Inverness store. ​When I think about the amazing array of bottlings to have passed through our doors here in Inverness, those two decades have gone by in the blink of an eye! We’re very excited about the latest auctions chapter in the history of The Whisky Shop, and especially that of the Inverness store’s site-specific offering.

Our unique service covers the entire Highland region and Aberdeenshire. From the outset, the objective is to be fully-flexible for our auctions customers, ensuring the process of discovering and selling rare whisky with The Whisky Shop Auctions is swift, transparent, straightforward and – above all – discreet.

There is clearly no shortage of alternatives for selling whisky out there, but existing, traditional options can be restrictive, with rigid drop-off and collection times, and – especially for those new to it all – can seem complicated.

We want to simplify all of this, and turn it around to give TWSA customers the best options that work for them.

How can customers get guidance on their bottles with the new service? ​ Firstly, our watchwords are confidence and discretion. While auctions customers can continue to drop off their bottles during the store’s daily opening hours, the new and unique aspect of the service includes a dedicated Tuesday evening opening – ‘Auctions After Hours’ – from 6pm to 9pm. Customers can prebook a slot ahead of the evening, bring along their bottles on the night and use this time for a free private consultation with myself. Complete with a complimentary welcome dram, of course!

Alongside this, we’ll soon be offering free collection direct from customers’ homes, which can be pre-arranged to suit. To take advantage of our new service, simply call the store on 0146 3710 525 or email us at collections@whiskyshop.com – whatever works best, we will be there for you.

How did your own love affair with whisky begin?

It was during the mid-1990s when I was a student in Glasgow that I started my love affair with everything whisky. On a snowy winter’s evening in a West End bar, a friend placed a glass of Johnnie Walker Black Label in my hand. That was my first experience of truly enjoying a dram, and I never looked back!

Are you a collector yourself?

Collecting whisky can fall into distinct categories, from diehard connoisseurs looking for premium quality, to hobby collectors looking to add that next distillery release to their treasure trove, or serious investors seeking long-term value appreciation, and enthusiastic trigger-finger flippers, each one eager to bag themselves a speedy profit! It’s important to have fun and have a clear strategy. In your early collecting days, it can be easy to pick up a bit of everything. Nothing wrong with that, but you can lose focus.

For me, it’s a hobby, and I have a few areas of interest. A clear path is required, whether this is a focus on the bigger proven names, such as Highland Park, Bowmore and the likes, or silent stills, Islay whiskies… the list is endless.

Generally speaking, I buy what I like, and that may be a memorable dram, or an unforgettable distillery.

Tell us about some of your most prized bottles.

As for my most prized bottles, a selection of old blended whiskies, ranging from the 1950s-70s, and a few older single grain whiskies, feature highly. I love the old antique nature of whiskies from such times. That’s the beauty of the secondary market – you can pick up bygone whiskies that you wished you had tried but never got the chance.

Which distilleries have you noticed more and more people collecting?

The Dalmore has really scaled new highs over the last 20 years or so, thanks to a huge rise in super-premium quality; record breaking limited editions; exciting distillery exclusives – not to forget stunning-tasting liquid. Macallan and Ardbeg have always been savoured, and rightly so. Today, these are the main focal points of many a collection.

In terms of new distilleries, what should collectors keep an eye on?

Good question! Daftmill and Nc’nean are already delivering very well. Ardnamurchan, Ballindalloch and Holyrood are worth looking out for. My local and west coast family connections draw me towards what might emerge from the likes of GlenWyvis, Raasay, Torabhaig, Harris, Lagg, and Ardnahoe in the years ahead.

How do new releases sell in auction?

Timing is key, especially with a limited edition that sells rapidly on the retail market, and is first to auction. In this case, performance can be excellent. You might get an initial spike and then it can level out, and in a few years begin appreciating again.

Any tips for aspiring collectors?

If you are looking to flip, then timing is especially crucial. However, if you’re in it for the longer haul, patience is paramount. It can be very dependent on the distillery in question, how limited it is, the number of bottles from the yield, type of cask – many factors play a part.

Ultimately, whether buying or selling at auction, you should have fun and enjoy it!

31

auctions@whiskyshop.com

telephone: +44 (0) 141 427 2950

ARE LIVE VISIT WHISKYSHOP.COM/AUCTIONS

SERVICES OFFERED HERE'S WHY YOU SHOULD Drop off at local UK shops GET INVOLVED: Drop off at our Paris boutique Local experts

Advanced search filters 360° spin photography Rolling auctions Anti-sniper software Our virtual wallet Immediate cash out option Private client service

THE REST

32

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

Auctions

Whisky auction results

TWSA results

£15,000

› Hanyu 2000 Single Cask Ichiro's Malt Card Two of Clubs We were thrilled to receive a winning bid of £15,000 for one of the rarest bottles in the Ichiro's Malt Card series, the Two of Clubs. Hanyu’s stills may now be silent, but its legacy lives on through remaining stocks that were recovered and purchased by Ichiro Akuto – the founder’s grandson. Distilled in 2000 and bottled in 2007, this particular expression was finished in a Japanese Mizunara oak hogshead and is one of just 318 bottles that exist.

£10,000

› Hanyu 2000 Single Cask Ichiro's Malt Card Three of Spades The Ichiro’s Malt Card series strikes again, with the Three of Spades this time achieving a fantastic final bid of £10,000. Each unique in its own right, every bottling of the Ichiro’s Malt Card series has become a true collector's piece and an important moment in the history of Japanese whisky. The Three of Spades bottling was finished in a new American oak hogshead, with only 354 bottles produced.

£1,250

› GlenDronach 1989 29 Year Old Kingsman Edition £1,250 was an incredible result for this new and limited edition release.

Distilled in 1989 and matured for almost three decades in oloroso and Pedro Ximénez sherry casks, this bottle was inspired by the oldest bottle of GlenDronach, which is currently housed at the Speyside distillery, and was released in September 2020 to celebrate the third instalment of Matthew Vaughn’s Kingsman movie franchise.

£1,050

› Daftmill 2009 Single Cask #36 Berry Bros & Rudd Bidders are still ‘daft’ for farmer Francis Cuthbert’s single malt! £1,050 was a wonderful winning bid for this Daftmill single cask, bottled exclusively for wine and spirits merchant Berry Bros & Rudd. Distilled in 2009 at the farm distillery in Fife, this expression was laid down in a single first-fill Pedro Ximénez hogshead for over a decade, before being bottled in 2020 at a strength of 58.6% VOL.

33

Knowledge Bar Doddie’s Charity Whisky Auction

World results

£41,004

› Nc'nean Ainnir Bottle #001 What a result! Bottle #001 of Nc'nean Distillery’s inaugural release has sold for a record-breaking £41,004 at an online charity auction. Founded in 2013, Nc’nean Distillery is based on the west coast of Scotland and runs entirely on renewable energy. Bottles of its first whisky sold out online within 36 hours, with bottle #001 sold at auction to raise funds for charities that support sustainability, including Trees for Life and The Drinks Trust.

£41,000

› Karuizawa 1965 Japonisme Edition A small batch release from the silent stills of Karuizawa Distillery has achieved a mighty winning bid of £41,000. Once a producer of world-class Japanese single malt, the distillery closed its doors in 2001. Its legacy lives on through single cask releases from independent bottler Number One Drinks, and it is now considered to be one of the most prestige single malts on the planet. This particular bottling was a vatting of ex-sherry cask #2372 and ex-bourbon cask #8636 – and the final release in a trio of 1965 Karuizawa.

❝ Together we’ll make a

difference, together we’ll give MND a bit of a fright.

Doddie Weir

It’s nearly here! Doddie’s Charity Whisky Auction will be live at The Whisky Shop Auctions from Wednesday 11th November 2020, with all proceeds going to the My Name’5 Doddie foundation – and we’re giving you an exclusive sneak peek at what’s on offer.

£16,500

› Black Bowmore 42 Year Old Arguably the most famous of all Bowmore vintages, a bottle of Black Bowmore 42 Year Old has sold at auction for an incredible £16,500. Established in 1779, Bowmore is Islay’s oldest working distillery, and is regarded as one of the most popular malts in the whole of Scotland. The legendary Black Bowmore has been credited by many as the genesis of whisky collecting, and remains one of the most collectible and most memorable whiskies on the market today.

£12,500

› Glenfiddich 1936 Peter J Russell £12,500 was a fantastic final bid for one of Glenfiddich’s early single malts, bottled especially for Peter J Russell & Co in 1969. An important trailblazer in the whisky industry, Glenfiddich was an early advocate of the single malt Scotch category, becoming the first distillery to market their single malt brand in 1963 and bottling a multitude of well-regarded independent releases including this rare bottle.

Visit us at whiskyshop.com/auctions to support this incredible cause.

34

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

A Time in History

‘The other’ Charles MacLean Against the backdrop of Strachur House, Brian Wilson spends an afternoon getting to know the esteemed author and son of wartime adventurer Sir Fitzroy MacLean – ‘the other’ Charles MacLean.

Illustration: Katie Smith Let’s be clear. There are (at least) two literary Charles MacLeans who might, for shorthand, be described as the ̒Whiskeria Charlie̓ and the ̒St Kilda Charlie̓.

The one with whom readers of this magazine are familiar is the doyen of whisky writers, author of many books on the subject. He lives in Edinburgh. The other Charles MacLean likes a dram, but writes books about other things, from a study at the end of a rather fine garden in Argyll.

To the Scottish literary cognoscenti, all this may go without saying. But look at various websites which hopelessly blend the two into a single biography and you will appreciate the need for clarity. As for the namesakes themselves, they have long since agreed to refrain from correcting anyone who perpetuates the confusion.

The St Kilda Charlie – a reference to his most enduring piece of written work – also had great success with a psychological thriller called The Watcher. “For some reason,” he recalls, “it became a big hit in Russia, but they mixed up the author.

“The back cover had a picture of the other Charlie MacLean – red face, big moustache, red kilt. We thought of going to St Petersburg to do a double act.”

We meet in the magnificent setting of Strachur House on Argyll’s Cowal peninsula.

“Everyone thinks it’s been in our family for generations, but the reality is quite different.”

That story derives from the unique political career of Charles MacLean’s father, the late Sir Fitzroy MacLean – war hero extraordinaire.

Fitzroy acquired much of the life experience for his classic book, Eastern Approaches, by the time he was 30. The early chapters describe his astonishingly ambitious travels as a British diplomat in Moscow who revelled in giving the KGB the slip and taking off for the most inaccessible parts of the Soviet empire by

whatever modes of transport were available.

By the time war broke out, Fitzroy was back in London as a restless Foreign Office diplomat, determined to find his way into military action.

However, he was in a reserved occupation and not eligible for call-up. The only way around this he could find was to become an MP. So, he used his considerable charms and impeccable connections to become the Tory candidate in the 1941 Lancaster by-election.

Duly returned to Parliament and liberated from the Foreign Office, Fitzroy signed up as a private in the Cameron Highlanders but was soon propelled by Winston Churchill into the special missions that made him the stuff of legend – notably the mandate to drop into Yugoslavia and return with a view on which anti-Fascist force the allies should back, on the basis defined by Churchill, of “who is killing most Germans.” The answer was Tito’s Partisans.

After the war, Fitzroy continued to represent Lancaster for another 14 years, which could not have been hugely exciting in comparison with his previous career. But his heart was in the north and in 1959, he made the transition to being Tory MP for Bute and North Ayrshire – and needed somewhere to live; close to the constituency, but not too close! There just happened to be a suitable property on the market.

That is how the MacLeans landed in Strachur with a grand pile built in the 1770s for General John Campbell, who commanded British forces in North America after the Civil War, and a 4,000 acre estate. Fitzroy – whose own antecedents were in Mull – had married Veronica, the sister of Lord Lovat, another Highland aristo with a stellar war record, so the impression that the MacLeans were of ancient local lineage was understandable, but wrong. Strachur was still Campbell country!

❝ The other Charles

MacLean likes a dram, but writes books about other things, from a study at the end of a rather fine garden in Argyll.

Knowledge Bar Charles MacLean

Born:

31st October 1946

Residency:

Strachur House, Strachur, Argyll and Bute, Scotland

Occupation: Author Notable work:

St Kilda: Island on the Edge of the World, The Watcher, Home Before Dark

35

36

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

A Time in History

❝ My dad regarded

coming back to live in the Highlands as his greatest achievement which was pretty remarkable given some of the stuff he had been involved in.

That set the course for us trying to stay on here after he and my mother died.

Charles MacLean For good measure, however, Fitzroy became the local inn-keeper, acquiring the Creggans Inn and turning it into a place of legendary hospitality where locals rubbed shoulders with the rich and famous, often presided over by the proprietor who had the knack of being at ease in company from all backgrounds.

Charles says: “My dad regarded coming back to live in the Highlands as his greatest achievement which was pretty remarkable given some of the stuff he had been involved in. That set the course for us trying to stay on here after he and my mother died.”

In Strachur’s old graveyard, Fitzroy came across a memorial to an individual known as MacPhunn of Drip. “That intrigued my father, so he started looking into it.” The story went that MacPhunn was hanged for murdering a Campbell in Inveraray. His wife sailed the corpse across Loch Fyne but in the course of the journey the body twitched and then revived with the aid of whisky, to become known as “half-hung MacPhunn.” He could not be tried twice for the same crime and survived to a ripe old age.

“My dad absolutely loved that story and decided to call the public bar at the Creggans, in his honour, MacPhunn’s. Then he was sitting next to a member of the Grant family at some dinner, who suggested that the Creggans should have its own MacPhunn whisky, so that was the start of it. Ever since, limited editions have been produced of a specially selected Speyside single malt.”

The label tells the story of the original MacPhunn’s Lazarus-like recovery – although in this more user-friendly version, he was hanged for sheep-stealing rather than murder. “He was probably a sheep-stealer as well,” reasons Charles, in defence of the poetic licence.

Charles’ identification with St Kilda goes back 50 years. “I was fresh out of college and wanted to do something that involved writing. I went to work for a guy called Edward Goldsmith who was eccentric but brilliant. We came up with the idea of a magazine and that was the beginning of The Ecologist, which was well ahead of its time.

“It was he who suggested that St Kilda would be interesting, as a study in what happens to a society that comes in contact with a so-called more advanced one. Since then, I’m not sure it’s that simple – there had been far more contact between the St Kildans and other islanders than I realised at that time through relying on existing literature. In a way, St Kilda had been a paradise – but it was a hell of a tough paradise.”

His resultant book, Island on the Edge of the World was published in 1972, has never been out of print and continues to be regarded, in an extremely crowded field, as the classic account of the St Kildan story. Charles had the advantage of still being able to speak to those who had memories of the island from before the evacuation. Some had fared better than others in the intervening years.

“Whatever the hardships, the St Kildans loved their island deeply,” he recalls. “Meeting them in their high rises in Drumchapel… that was depressing.” The last of the native St Kildans died in 2016, living in Clydebank.

At Strachur, Charles has returned to his environmentalist roots by developing a small hydro-electric scheme feeding electricity into the national grid. As for many landowners in the area, he says, this is a crucial aid to financial sustainability.

Currently, he’s working on a novel built around developments in Washington as the Cuban missile crisis unfolded. “It’s surprising how many of the main players my family knew.”

Some might say that given the extraordinary MacLean-Lovat pedigree and social network, it’s not in the least surprising!

The most recent re-publication of Island at the Edge of the World is by the Edinburgh publisher Canongate. The blurb on their website says, correctly, that Charles has had “a diverse and international writing career.”

It then adds: “He is the author of a number of award-wining books on Scotch whisky.” There are some confusions so deeply embedded that you just can’t escape from them, even at the hands of your own publisher!

Knowledge Bar Fitzroy MacLean

Sir Fitzroy MacLean was a soldier, writer and politician, widely speculated be one of Ian Fleming’s inspirations for the character of James Bond. This is no wonder – by the time he was 30, MacLean had witnessed Stalin's show trials in Russia and famously parachuted behind the lines in Yugoslavia in the Second World War to become the key contact in Britain's alliance with Tito and his partisans at Churchill’s command.

MacLean always believed in the motto that it was better to live a day as a tiger than a year as a donkey; a mantra certainly captured in his memoir Eastern Approaches, in which MacLean recounted his extraordinary series of adventures (and his love of a good dram).

“After a long chilly night's drive, straining our eyes in the darkness for unseen obstacles and pitfalls, we found that there was a lot to be said for a dram of whisky stirred into our porridge.

It made a sustaining and stimulating mixture which I can warmly recommend as a breakfast dish to all engaged on similar enterprises.”

Fitzroy MacLean, Eastern Approaches

Refreshingly Different

Serve The Loch Fyne Chocolate & Orange Liqueur in a tall glass over ice, topped up with equal parts full fat milk and soda water, accompanied by a square of dark chocolate.

Loch Fyne Whiskies | Inveraray | Argyll PA32 8UD | t: 01499 302 219 (Shop) | Loch Fyne Whiskies | 36 Cockburn Street | Edinburgh EH1 1PB | t: 0131 226 2134 (Shop) 0800 107 1936 (Orders) | e: info@lochfynewhiskies.com | www.lochfynewhiskies.com

38

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

Industry Insider

Make it a double

From sampling hundreds of whiskies to creating 50-year-old drams, The Balvenie’s dream duo David Stewart MBE and Kelsey McKechnie confirm everything we already knew: that they have the best jobs in the world.

Hi David and Kelsey – what a team! As The Balvenie Malt Master and Apprentice Malt Master respectively, what does a typical working day look like for you both? david: In normal times, before the current situation with Covid-19, I would be going to the distillery and making a few overseas trips to launch new expressions and speak to journalists. As I now work part-time for the company, I'm not in the office on a regular basis, so when I do go in it’s mainly for sampling. kelsey: At the moment, I’m going into the office on Tuesdays and Thursdays to sample.

While we usually do most of our nosing in the office, we’ve always had the opportunity to go up to the warehouses and sample straight from the cask. David and I have been up there countless times together. Things like that will be so nice to get back to! david: We could be sampling between 30 or 40 whiskies a day. Occasionally in the past, I’ve gone to the distillery and sampled a whole vatting – a Balvenie DoubleWood or a Caribbean Cask vatting – which is maybe 300 barrels going into a vat!

Kelsey, tell us about your past few years working in the role. kelsey: It’s been a very exciting (and very busy) few years! We’ve seen the launch of many new Balvenie Stories expressions. I’ve spent a lot of time at the distillery and in our nosing room focusing on learning what is required to ensure consistency in our new and maturing stocks.

Are you finding more and more young people have an interest in whisky? kelsey: I think whisky is appealing to many more people over a range of demographics. A few years ago, people would have almost been a little bit embarrassed to drink it in a bar because they felt they needed to know so much about the dram they were ordering. I think one big thing that’s driving change is that, nowadays, it’s more about taste. People are ordering what they like because they like it, not necessarily because they know how big the distillery’s stills are!

As you progress in your role, what do you hope to bring to The Balvenie in the future? kelsey: I hope to bring the same level of skill and expertise David has shown in the quality of The Balvenie products over the past 58 years.

I love working on innovation products and I hope we can release more exciting products as the years develop. We have lots of innovations bubbling away in the background.

David, what made Kelsey the perfect choice for the Apprentice Malt Master role? david: Kelsey started as part of William Grant & Sons’ graduate programme in June 2014. She worked in the lab carrying out spirit analysis and was also part of the company’s New Liquid Development team. As Kelsey moved between our UK and Irish sites, she developed greater sensory and technical skills. We needed to get someone in to train as an Apprentice Malt Master alongside me and Brian Kinsman, as I can’t be around forever! Kelsey was a natural fit.

Those are a couple of good mentors, Kelsey! kelsey: I know. David’s apprenticeship was about ten years long and Brian’s lasted nine years… so I always joke that, in the spirit of competition, I need to shave a few years off!

David, what does it take to be a great whisky blender? david: People often ask me if I’m something sort of special, but if you get the training then I think most people could do the job. The main part of the job is the nosing, the ability to identify whiskies. We’re not tasting the whiskies in the sample room – we’re trained nosers – and it takes time to know how our whiskies should be.

Do you need to have a natural talent for nosing, or can it be learned? kelsey: The way I always think about nosing is that it’s like using another language. So many people think they’re not very good at it, but many people just have an issue with the word association. As long as you keep using your nose, keep picking out flavours and describing them – as long as you keep in touch with that language – your skills will improve.

Since working together, what have you learned from each other? david: When we’re nosing samples together, we may not always agree. It's good to have a discussion together and by doing this we can usually come up with the correct decisions. kelsey: One of the biggest learnings that David has taught me is certainly having patience. Nothing happens overnight in whisky and we’re looking so far ahead. We’re filling spirit today that might actually become a

39

❝ The way I always think about nosing is that

it’s like using another language… as long as you keep in touch with that language – your skills will improve.

Kelsey McKechnie, The Balvenie Apprentice Malt Master

40

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

Industry Insider 50-year-old Balvenie one day, so patience is key. In fact, I might not even be around for the majority of the products we’re creating. It’s an amazing thought to have.

That’s quite a legacy that you’re going to be handing over one day, David. david: That’s right. Are you looking forward to that, Kelsey?

David, can you pick any highlights from an incredible career spanning almost 60 years? david: I think that the launch of The Balvenie DoubleWood 12 Year Old in 1993 has been one of my proudest moments. Not many whiskies stay in a core range for 27 years! I’m proud of how well it’s done, and how well it’s liked.

This expression was one of the very first cask finishes – the word ‘finish’ wasn’t even mentioned back in the 80s. At the time, I didn’t think I was doing anything special. I knew the difference between American oak and Spanish oak, and I knew something would probably happen transferring from one to the other.

Of course, ‘finishing’ has now allowed the whole Scotch whisky industry to release a lot of different styles of whisky, from white wine finishes to red wine, Madeira, port, rum…

kelsey: Absolutely!

How did each of you get into whisky? kelsey: I’ve always been interested in whisky and have always shared a dram with my family. I studied biological sciences at university because I wanted to work in a lab, and when the opportunity came up to work in the William Grant & Sons lab, I really jumped at the chance! For me, it was the best of both worlds.

In my current role, I love being able to work with spirit profiles, carry out all of the routine analysis and also pair that with what I’m picking up on my nose. I feel very grateful, and very lucky. david: I started working for William Grant & Sons in 1962 just to get a job and to earn some money. I joined as a Whisky Stocks Clerk with my boss, Hamish Robertson, being the Master Blender. After two years doing mainly clerical work, Hamish brought me into the sample room to start my nosing training.

After ten years of training, I was very lucky that Hamish decided to leave the company and I was given the role in 1974 as the company's Master Blender. At 29, I was just two years older than Kelsey is now.

I held that role for the next 35 years before transferring on a part-time basis in 2010 to my current role as The Balvenie Malt Master.

David, as the industry’s longest-serving Malt Master, it’s no wonder you’re trusted with the distillery’s most precious casks to create The Balvenie’s Tun releases. Can you tell us what makes these whiskies so special? david: A tun is a 2,000 bulk litre marrying cask, unique to our company. The releases are made up of limited stocks and the whisky used is generally over 21 years old, with some as old as 40 years.

Tell us a bit about the latest release from the range, Batch 7. david: Batch 7 contains ten ex-DoubleWood sherry butts, four refill barrels and seven sherry hogsheads. It’s bottled at 52.4 % VOL and is free from chill-filtration. I describe it as rich, lush and slightly peppery, with candied orange peel, lots of oak vanilla, some golden syrup, layers of honeycomb, toasted hazelnuts, with some spicy ginger and nutmeg at the finish.

When it comes to the cask selection process for each Tun release, where do you begin? david: The process usually takes a few weeks.

Each release is made up in the sample room. We request many cask samples to be drawn at the distillery from different cask types and ages of The Balvenie. Kelsey, Brian and I sample each individually, before deciding how we might combine them. Once we’re happy with our decision, we give instructions to the distillery as to which casks should go into the tun. The liquid then spends three or four months in the tun before we bottle it.

The Balvenie Distillery is steeped in tradition. Can you tell us a bit about how you make whisky there? david: At The Balvenie, we have a huge focus on our crafts. We continue to home-grow a portion of our barley and malt in our traditional maltings. We have our own coppersmiths who maintain our beautiful copper stills and make our sweet new make spirit, which is then filled into handcrafted barrels by our own coopers.

And what about something that whisky lovers might not know about The Balvenie? kelsey: Many people don’t know that the distillery was originally intended to be named Glen Gordon, before taking its name after the local castle.

❝ We could be

sampling between 30 or 40 whiskies a day. Occasionally in the past, I’ve gone to the distillery and sampled a whole vatting… which is maybe 300 barrels going into a vat!

David Stewart MBE, The Balvenie Malt Master

41

42

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

Distillery Visit

H I L A N As rich in history as it is in flavour, Gavin D Smith, takes us behind the scenes at one of the Highlands’ most legendary distilleries: The Dalmore.

43

G H D E R

44

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

Distillery Visit Back in September, Master Distiller Richard Paterson celebrated 50 years with Whyte & Mackay Ltd, and announced that in future he would be focusing his efforts on the company’s most glittering of prizes, The Dalmore Highland single malt.

That The Dalmore now stands shoulder to shoulder with The Macallan as one of the world’s most sought-after whiskies is due in no small part to the talents of Paterson, who has nurtured the spirit to great age in many cases in order to produce rare and exclusive bottlings, demonstrating a mastery of extensive maturation periods along the way.

One example of this was the release in 2002 of 12 bottles of 62-year-old Dalmore, containing whisky filled to cask in 1868, 1878, 1926 and 1939.

One of these bottles changed hands for $250,000 (£125,000) at Singapore’s Changi Airport in 2011, and another became the most expensive bottle of whisky sold by Christie’s auction house when it fetched £114,000 in 2017. A further two bottles of the 62-year-old went on to fetch £266,600 each at Sotheby's auction house in May 2020.

Even more exclusive was the 2010 release of The Dalmore Trinitas. This time, just three bottles of 64-year-old whisky were released, with component spirit dating from 1868, 1878, 1926 and 1939. Paterson and the Dalmore team went one better, however, with the launch in 2013 of a single set of The Paterson Collection, comprising 12 rare bottles of The Dalmore, which went on sale at Harrods store in London with a price tag of £987,500. early history From the distillery’s inception in 1839 there has always been an emphasis on creating luxurious, highly desirable drams. The founder was Sir Alexander Matheson (1805-86), a highly astute businessman who made his fortune as an international trader. Returning to Britain after retiring from the world of global commerce, Matheson turned his attention to the Scottish Highlands, from where his family originated.

One of his key ambitions was to create a distillery which would make the best Highland single malt whisky possible, and he spent several months searching for the ideal location, somewhere with a source of pure, fresh water, and close to where high-quality malting barley was grown. Finally, he settled on The Dalmore Mill estate, by the shores of the Cromarty Firth, 20 miles north of Inverness. the mackenzies The distillery thrived, and in 1867 Sir Alexander Matheson handed the tenancy to Andrew Mackenzie, 24-year-old son of his land agent, who was aided by his brother Charles. The Mackenzies set out to refurbish the plant, with the first spirit flowing on 27th January 1868.

Andrew Mackenzie recorded in his diary that

the spirit was “…fine quality and very pure.”

In 1870, The Dalmore became the first Scotch single malt to be exported to Australia, and 1874 saw its introduction to Asia. During that same year, two additional stills were installed alongside the original pair in order to meet global demand for the whisky. In 1900, the first bottles of The Dalmore were exported to the USA, and by this time, the Mackenzie brothers owned the distillery, having purchased it for £14,500 in 1891, five years after the death of Sir Alexander Matheson.

As already noted, lengthy maturation is a feature of some modern-day expressions of The Dalmore, and records show that as early as 1882, Andrew Mackenzie was maturing his whisky for at least 12 years before selling it, while at the same time most rival distillers were offering their spirit at the age of five or six.

Much longer maturation was also practiced, with whisky distilled in 1878 being transferred from new casks – termed ‘Distillery Wood’ – to ‘Sherry Wood’ in 1890, only to be allowed to age for a further 18 years before bottling as a 30-yearold. An earlier example, distilled in 1868, was re-filled from distillery wood to sherry wood in 1880, finally being bottled as a 23-year-old in 1891.

During the First World War Dalmore Distillery was transformed into a mine assembly plant – named US Naval Base 17. Accommodation for up to 1,000 men was created and a new pier, still known today as ‘The Yankee Pier’, was built. A mine was accidentally detonated during 1920, and the explosion and fire that followed destroyed much of the distillery. Andrew Mackenzie fought a long legal battle with the Royal Navy for compensation, and the dispute even reached the House of Lords before a settlement was achieved. making the spirit The Dalmore remained in the hands of the Mackenzie family until 1960, when it merged with the long-established Glasgow blending firm Whyte & Mackay Ltd, providing that company with its first distillery.

Five years later, in line with a general boom in the Scotch whisky business, distillery capacity was increased with the construction of a second stillhouse, containing another four stills, and the character of the spirit as we know it today is a direct result of operating the two stillhouses in tandem.

As Daryl Haldane, Head of Experience for The Dalmore, explains, “It’s a very idiosyncratic set up. We have flat-topped wash stills with the lyne arms set seven inches below the tops, which increases copper contact. The oldest spirit still dates from 1874, and within that is an internal condenser, which we didn’t know about until some work was being done on the stills recently. It’s basically a big lump of copper with channels in it for the spirit to run through.

“We have short, dumpy stills in the ‘old’ side,

producing a full-bodied spirit despite all the copper contact. It would be very sulphury without the purifier. The spirit stills have Victorian water jackets which mean we can cool or warm the spirit as we wish.

“The four stills in the ‘new’ side, dating from 1966, are twice the size of the old ones and have no internal condenser, so the spirit is different. It’s ‘unbalanced’ distillation, and there’s a huge amount of operator influence. It’s manual valves and taps, and they are constantly monitoring the spirit; they really are making the whisky. The stillman is almost conducting an orchestra. Every still gives you something slightly different.” maturing the spirit The practice of initially ageing the spirit in ex-bourbon casks before a secondary period of maturation, usually in former sherry casks, is at the heart of The Dalmore’s character.

As Daryl Haldane notes, “The new-make spirit style is suitable for long maturation and for the different cask types Richard Paterson likes to use.

The bourbon casks contribute to the chocolate and orange characteristics of the house style, while the rich, rounded, silky element of the spirit comes from the sherry casks.”

Richard Paterson has maintained the important relationship forged between Andrew Mackenzie and the Jerez sherry house of González Byass, founded four years before The Dalmore Distillery, and still family-owned.

Daryl Haldane says that “It’s about cask curation – going out and finding beautiful casks for additional maturation. The first Matusalem casks from González Byass came over in 1973, and these give lovely big spice elements to the house style, having previously held 30-year-old oloroso sherry.

“In the 1980s, Richard Paterson brought in port pipes from W&J Graham’s, and later he sourced red wine casks. Quintessence used five different red wines from California for an additional five years of ageing. His taste has had lots of influence on The Dalmore’s style. It’s about finding casks that complement the house style. Richard is always searching for something new, always exploring, he’s a restless perfectionist.”

When it comes to the location of maturation, all casks are filled on site, with almost 60,000 casks stored in nine warehouses – four traditional dunnage and five racked. According to Daryl Haldane, “Some casks may be warehoused at our Invergordon grain distillery complex as well, but that’s just two and a half miles away, and also by the Cromarty Firth. None of the spirit is matured elsewhere. It all ages where it was made.”

45

Knowledge Bar The Dalmore

Founded: 1839 Region: Highland Capacity: 4.2m litres

Dalmore Distillery Inverness

SCOTLAND

Glasgow

The Dalmore Distillery sits on the banks of the Cromarty Firth, overlooking the Black Isle.

Edinburgh

46

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

Distillery Visit

Benjamin West's The Fury of the Stag tells the story of how The Dalmore came to use its '12-pointed' stag's head emblem.

Knowledge Bar Royal heritage

Every bottle of The Dalmore carries a striking representation of a ‘12-pointed’ stag’s head, the clan crest of the Mackenzies, and one of Andrew Mackenzie’s first acts on taking over The Dalmore distillery was to commence using the stag image in relation to his whisky.

The connection between the Mackenzie clan and the stag dates back to 1263, when Colin of Kintail, chief of Clan Mackenzie, was part of a hunting party with King Alexander III of Scotland.

During the hunt, a stag charged at the king, and Colin of Kintail was the only man to go to his rescue, shouting in Gaelic ‘Cuidich n’ Righ!’ – ‘save the king!’ – as he dispatched the angry beast.

As a reward for saving his monarch, Colin was granted the right to use the motto ‘Lucio Non Uro’ – which translates from the Latin as ‘I shine, not burn’. The Mackenzies were also given the right to use the 12-pointed ‘royal stag’ as their clan crest. The tale of Colin of Kintail’s bravery is commemorated in a vast 1786 painting named The Fury of the Stag, painted by Benjamin West, and hanging in the National Gallery of Scotland, Edinburgh.

the whiskies Although The Dalmore has made headlines with high-priced exclusive expressions, the permanent range includes altogether more affordable bottlings. The Whisky Shop carries an extensive line-up, including 12, 15, 18, 25, 35, 40 and 45-year-olds, King Alexander III, Port Wood Reserve, Cigar Malt and Quintessence, along with the most expensive – The Dalmore 51 Year Old. Just 51 bottles were made available, with a price tag of £69,000 and sadly for prospective buyers, The Whisky Shop sold its only allocated bottle in April 2020.

Even newer than the 51-year-old is the much more modestly priced 12 Year Old Sherry Cask Select, launched this autumn as part of the core Principal Collection a​ nd exclusive to The Whisky Shop in the UK. After 10 years in ex-bourbon casks, this expression has been fully finished for at least a further two years in oloroso and Pedro Ximénez sherry-seasoned American and European oak casks (reviewed on p.12

by Charles MacLean).

And there is more to look forward to. Let’s give the last word to the man whose vision and skill has done so much to shape the destiny of The Dalmore during the last five decades.

Richard Paterson declares that “I have the great honour to care for the truly extraordinary whisky we create at The Dalmore. I look forward to sharing some very special releases in 2021.”

❝ That The Dalmore

now stands shoulder to shoulder with The Macallan as one of the world’s most sought-after whiskies is due in no small part to the talents of Richard Paterson.

48

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

Interview

49

The three gentlemen of Girona Brothers, world-class chefs and proud holders of three Michelin stars, Joan, Josep and Jordi Roca have been at the top of their culinary game for over three decades – and show no signs of stopping.

50

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

Interview Growing up in their parents’ restaurant in Girona, Spain, the Roca brothers went on to open their own restaurant in 1986. Twice named ‘Best Restaurant in the World’, El Celler de Can Roca is credited with modernising traditional Catalan cuisine in the most unique way and appears on the bucket list of food lovers around the world.

Masters of their craft, it’s no wonder the brothers were invited to collaborate with The Macallan on a series of limited edition whiskies that capture the essence of some of the world’s greatest cities, starting with London.

We sat down with Joan, Josep and Jordi to discuss their remarkable journey and the launch of Distil Your World: The London Edition.

As children, did you spend a lot of time in the family restaurant? joan: I was practically raised in the family restaurant! My parents opened Can Roca in 1967, in a neighbourhood called Taialà on the outskirts of Girona. For my brothers and I, the family restaurant was our living room. It was the place where the three of us grew up, played games and did our homework – all the while aromas from my mother’s cooking wafted around us. The smells from my childhood include the typical brothbased dishes ‘escudella’ and ‘carn d’olla’, and in the afternoons, vanilla for custards.

Sounds delicious. Was it your mother who taught you how to cook? joan: It was a bit of a family affair. The restaurant kitchen was also our home kitchen, and on Tuesday afternoons I would make sausages with my father. We would grind the meat, season it, and stuff the sausages – I ground so much meat by hand that I would win every arm wrestling match at school! Grandma Angeleta, Grandma Francisca and their friends were always in the kitchen peeling garlic, onions or beans. They would spend the afternoon chatting and putting the world to rights.

Did you know that you wanted to cook professionally from a young age? joan: I enjoyed being in the kitchen so much that when I was just nine, my mother had a chef’s coat made for me. Unknowingly, I was beginning to shape my future. When the time came to decide, I knew exactly what I wanted to do. I saw the happy customers at my parents’ restaurant and I wanted to continue making people happy, with the values my mother handed down: generosity, hospitality and hard work.

Although I was sure about my calling, I did well at school, and in those days, if you were more academically minded, it was assumed you would go on to higher education. Vocational training had a bit of a stigma attached at the time, but fate seemed to be on my side as one of the only two cookery schools in Spain happened to open in Girona, just a few miles from home. jordi: There’s a 14- and 12-year age gap between my brothers and I, so I went from helping

my parents in their restaurant to helping my brothers in theirs! I didn’t have a clear calling to be a chef, but I did hope to do something that would make my family proud – especially my brothers. They were my idols and I looked up to them. When I was 14, I still didn’t exactly know what I wanted to do but I enrolled at the cookery school anyway, following in my brothers’ footsteps some years before.

who pulls all of our new creations and projects together in harmony.

How did your time studying at cookery school shape your skills and talents? joan: It was at cookery school that I discovered that as well as the lentils, ‘escudella’, macaroni and potato salad we had at home, there were ‘ravigotes’, ‘meunières’, ‘veloutés’ and ‘parmentières’ – the stuff I had read about in classical French cookery books. These methods, unheard of at home, made sense to me and expanded my gastronomic imagination while I was studying. I was able to combine our traditional home cooking with what I learned at cookery school.

How would you describe the cuisine of El Celler de Can Roca? joan: Our cuisine is freestyle, embracing emotions and senses. We seek a perfect balance of creativity, innovation and technique, paying homage to local, seasonal ingredients and daring to push the boundaries without losing the essence of taste.

jordi: I wasn’t a good student like Joan.

It was in fact Damian Allsop – a talented Welsh pastry chef – who really inspired me when he worked at our restaurant at the end of the 1990s. He piqued my curiosity and helped to broaden my mind: first as his assistant, then as his successor.

Damian gave me the tools to truly understand sweet cooking – its methods and precision; the handicraft, patience, confidence and obsessive implication it requires. He taught me how to make a soufflé rise, the need to temper chocolate, how a jelly sets, how to blow sugar as if I were making artisanal glass – and much, much more.

You opened your restaurant, El Celler de Can Roca, in 1986, with Jordi joining the team in 1997. How is it working together as brothers? joan: Our working process is a three-part amalgamation of our individual disciplines, or ‘worlds’. Josep is the liquid mind – the sommelier – representing the world of wine; Jordi is the sweet mind who takes care of the pastries and desserts; I’m the savoury mind and the architect

josep: There are many pros to working with your family – like trust. I think the fact that each of us master one discipline is good for us.

It makes us a triangle from where we can offer our guests a very special, almost complete, dining experience.

While you are innovators, your Catalan roots are important to you. How do maintain tradition in your cooking? joan: It’s a question of balance. We play with senses and techniques to reinvent traditional recipes. We pursue creativity while committing to original flavours. We’re inspired globally while sourcing locally. Tradition inspires us while we strive to innovate, to create surprising emotions and senses for our guests.

When creating a new dish, where do you start? joan: It is a three-way collaboration at every step of the creative process. Sometimes the starting point might be the produce, or the landscape that reminds us of our commitment to the environment. Academic knowledge, personal memories and sense of humour very often inspire us, as well as daring innovation, perfume and smell, poetry and magic, the world of wine, and colours. We try to see everything from as wide an angle as possible.

Photography credits: El Celler de Can Roca, Becky Lawton

51

❝ For my brothers and I, the family restaurant was our living room.

It was the place where the three of us grew up, played games and did our homework – all the while aromas from my mother’s cooking wafted around us.

Joan

Knowledge Bar Joan, Josep and Jordi Roca in the kitchen of El Celler de Can Roca.

The proof is in the pudding

El Celler de Can Roca was awarded its first Michelin star in 1995, receiving its second and third in 2002 and 2009 respectively.

In 2009, the restaurant was fifth on the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants; climbing to fourth in 2010 and second in 2011. In 2013, El Celler de Can Roca took the number one spot, and was named ‘World’s Best Restaurant’ once again in 2015.

Four years after taking over the restaurant’s sweet cooking, Jordi Roca was awarded the accolade of ‘World’s Best Pastry Chef’ in 2014. He went on to receive the ‘Prix au Chef Patissier’ award from the International Academy of Gastronomy two years later, in 2016.

That same year, Joan Roca was awarded the ‘Chefs’ Choice Award’ by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Following this, he was named ‘Best Chef in the World’ by The Best Chef Awards Academy in 2017 – an award he went on to receive again in 2018.

52

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

❝ We work with the

best of everything, and The Macallan is the ultimate luxury spirit.

Joan

Can you give an example of an idea that turned into a successful dish? jordi: For me, it is my dessert ‘Trip to Havana’.

I started seriously learning ice cream-making techniques under maestro Angelo Corvitto from Sicily. One of his rules of thumb was keeping the work atmosphere completely pure, and it’s absolutely true. An ice cream is an emulsion in which air is a very important ingredient – it’s a sponge for aromas. That golden rule sparked my imagination: what would happen if I intentionally added smoke? I’d heard of tobacco-flavoured ice creams made from an infusion and it occurred to me that using smoke directly might improve the final result. In my first experiments I exhaled cigar smoke straight into the ice cream maker.

The results were surprisingly good but I quickly realised that this method was neither practical nor very good for my health!

With my father’s help, I built a water pump that blows out smoke automatically, without the need for my own lungs! In 2001, I presented ‘Trip to Havana’: a dark chocolate cylinder filled with ice cream infused with Havana cigar smoke, and served with a mojito. joan: For Josep and I, this was the moment we realised our brother Jordi was a dessert genius! It was also the moment we found the final vertex in our gastronomic triangle of liquid, savoury and sweet.

In 2009, El Celler de Can Roca was awarded its third Michelin star. What an achievement to accomplish alongside your brothers! Eleven years later, is the pressure still on? josep: It’s never really been about the pressure for us, but rather a deep commitment to excellence. We embarked on our restaurant project over 30 years ago – we focus more on that than on what people say about us, which at the end of the day we have absolutely no control over. We keep working with our commitment to creativity and excellence, as passionately as we did on day one. What else can you do?

Exceptional food, exceptional whisky – your partnership with The Macallan seems like a match made in heaven! What do El Celler de Can Roca and The Macallan have in common? joan: Both worlds speak the same language.

The cooking process requires craftsmanship, heritage, mastery and constant innovation – and whisky-making requires the same ingredients to make each expression a piece of art. We work with the best of everything, and The Macallan is the ultimate luxury spirit.

Your latest collaborative bottle with The Macallan – Distil Your World: The London Edition – took you on an adventure to the capital city. Tell us how your trip to London inspired you. joan: Having the chance to spend time with the craftspeople and creators who drive London’s inimitable creativity and entrepreneurship, committed leaders who add to its vibrancy, and special thinkers who understand its past and anticipate its future, was extremely enriching and inspiring.

To get the full feel of the city, we explored its most emblematic buildings and went behind the scenes at exceptional locations, discovering the unique flavours and scents that define a place like no other. We wandered around Borough Market with food historian Annie Gray, and smelled the shoots, roots, flowers and garden aromas in Regent’s Park. We enjoyed the spicy smells of Asma Khan’s Indian food at Darjeeling Express, and learned about the handling of tea with Edward Eisler from Jing. We expanded our knowledge of neuroscience and neurogastronomy with Professor Charles Spence – fascinating! – and spent valuable time with Mischa Dohler at the Royal Academy of Engineering.

Back in Girona, to develop the whisky, we held a creative session to extract the very essence of London. The places we visited and the people we met all now take shape in this whisky – our own distillation of the essence of London.

What does it taste like? joan: We selected six first-fill European oak 0loroso-seasoned casks that deliver unique tasting notes, representing the spirit of London.

The taste is slightly umami, with the subtle touch of curry and the sweetness of Earl Grey tea, as well as keeping The Macallan’s signature taste of orange, vanilla and raisin. There are some special notes in there that are really rare to find.

Delicious! As well as creating Distil Your World: The London Edition, you also selected a Macallan single cask to be paired with a gastronomic experience at selected bars around London. Tell us about the pairings you have created. joan: For the first experience, we’ve created a scallop dish served in a malt broth with wild mushrooms, sea fennel, roasted hazelnut and artichoke purée. The dish is reminiscent of the earth and greenery in the city’s damp and rainy landscape, as well London’s produce from land and sea. The scallop is presented in the form of a goldsmith’s work of art, recalling the city’s wealth of museums and refined culture.

The second experience consists of three types of candied nuts: curry candied walnuts, Earl Grey candied macadamia nuts, and mint & ginger cashew nuts, each infused with unique London tasting notes, such as lemongrass, curry spice and Earl Grey tea.

Both pairings complement notes of oak spice, lively ginger and cinnamon found in The Macallan single cask we selected.

Speaking of eating and drinking, where do you like to dine out in London? josep: It’s a fascinating city for food: the world capital for cutting-edge gastronomy. London is always interesting in its capacity to generate business models that become world trends. It has a talent pool that combines business sense with culinary talent. The city’s commitment to every culture that passes through it means you can find good, authentic food from a host of places: from a Georgian restaurant to a specialist in Nigerian cuisine.

And this is the same for the city’s drinks scene. I love the bars Dandelyan and Artesia, and for wine, I go to Michael Sager of Sager + Wilde on Hackney Road. I love Isaac MacHale’s take on contemporary Scotland at The Clove Club, the freshness of Lyle’s, the eclecticism of Dinner, the wizardry of Master Sommelier Isa Bal at Trivet, the flavours at The Hide Bar… as well as something more offbeat like Xavier Rousset’s Cabotte. Pall Mall 67 is also a must.

Do you ever take a night off cooking?

If so, how do you relax? josep: I enjoy having a glass of wine or spirit in the evening, while reading books about wines and liqueurs. Cycling recharges my batteries before I go back to work. joan: Morning walks are more my thing.

I go at the crack of dawn, when the cobbled streets of Girona’s old town are empty, and you can take in the beauty and history of its buildings.

I love the peace and quiet at that time in the morning, when everything has yet to unfold and anything is possible. It’s the hour of potential.

53

❝ Josep is the liquid

mind – the sommelier – representing the world of wine; Jordi is the sweet mind who takes care of the pastries and desserts; I’m the savoury mind and the architect who pulls all of our new creations and projects together in harmony.

Joan

The Roca brothers taste their whisky alongside The Macallan Whisky Maker Steven Bremner.

54

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

Win the full range this December at

instagram.com/thewhiskyshop Competition runs 1st – 15th December 2020

Travel:

London calling

Big drams in the Big Smoke: from west to east, our Macallan bar crawl takes us on a journey of flavour.

Photography: Brian Sweeney | Assistant: Jonni

55

56

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

The Whisky Shop Piccadilly Piccadilly | 169 Piccadilly, London, W1J 9EH @thewhiskyshop __________________________________________________________________________

» Located directly opposite iconic Old Bond Street, The Whisky Shop’s flagship boutique sits in the flurry of Piccadilly, counting Fortnum & Mason and The Ritz as close neighbours.

“We moved to this new shop just over a year ago,” says Boutique Manager Alan Robertson. “It’s an absolutely beautiful space – a great place for tasting and events – and we’ve had a lot of big brand launches here, including The Macallan, where we’ve enjoyed guided tastings, whisky pairings and music from a pianist. These are highly popular events which will be back after the pandemic.”

In normal times, The Macallan would be celebrating the launch of their latest release with such an affair. We arrive at the shop in time to capture the unveiling of the magnificently presented London Edition of The Macallan’s Distil Your World series, complete with white gloves to handle the ultra-premium bottle and its packaging.

This is the first release in a series of limited edition Macallan bottlings in collaboration with the Roca brothers that seek to capture the essence of some of the world’s greatest cities.

The whisky was inspired by the Roca brothers’ journey and exploration through an uncharted London. With The Macallan’s Whisky Maker Steven Bremner in tow, the brothers smelled and sampled their way around the capital, with the purpose of capturing

the unique essence, aroma and flavour of the city in their single malt whisky.

“London is an international city, a melting pot of culture, cuisine, architecture and art, and its rich heritage and myriad of cultures, combined with a timeless spirit and an innovative nature, made it the ideal playing field for this journey of mastery,” explains Bremner.

“Like the London soul, our single malt whisky, matured in its unique sherry-seasoned oak casks, delivers rich complexities, harmonious flavours, and vibrant aromas. This whisky is something new – with London notes like curry and the sweetness of Earl Grey tea – but it keeps The Macallan’s signature taste, and that’s the difficult part.”

The Macallan Distil Your World series is the next step in the distillery’s partnership with Catalonia’s finest chefs, following their collaboration on The Macallan’s Edition No.2 release back in 2016 – a bottle that left its mark on Boutique Manager Alan.

“Edition No.2 is my favourite Macallan,” reveals Alan. “It’s a beautiful whisky. If this new release is anything like Edition No.2, it’s going to be great.”

Distil Your World: The London Edition is available to buy at The Whisky Shop Piccadilly, Paternoster and whiskyshop.com.

57

Alan ____________________________________________________________ » My career with the Metropolitan Police brought me to London from Perth 30 years ago. When I retired, I just couldn’t settle, so I started as a Christmas temp at The Whisky Shop in 2016. I was already a W Club member and regularly attended store tastings, so it seemed like a natural move.

I got into whisky quite late in life, but as you get older your tastebuds change and you find the right whisky for you. I love a big sherry hit. In the winter, that can change very quickly to something peated. If I can get my hands on a sherried Laphroaig, even better!

Mike ____________________________________________________________ » My first dram was at university. It was a Johnnie Walker Double Black and I loved the smoke! From there I moved on to west coast drams from Caol Ila and Lagavulin.

Christmas drams? Definitely any big, beautiful sherried whiskies by GlenDronach or The Macallan.

Maria ____________________________________________________________ » I didn’t really plan to become a whisky lover! But I loved learning the process of distilling and finding that connection with my degree in biological sciences.

At the moment I’m drinking my whisky with chocolate – something dark and rich. Some peated whiskies go really well with seafood, and bourbon is delicious with grilled pork or steak – but I won’t be having whisky with my pasta, sorry! I’m Italian so I’d much rather have a lovely glass of Barbera with my spaghetti.

58

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

Scarfes Bar, The Rosewood Hotel Holborn | 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN | @scarfesbar __________________________________________________________________________

» Sophisticated, snug and oozing plenty of London charm: we can see why Scarfes Bar at The Rosewood Hotel is the flagship venue for the Roca brothers’ Distil Your World London gastronomic experience.

In harmony with the launch of their London Edition bottling, Joan, Josep and Jordi Roca have also hand-picked a Macallan single cask to be served exclusively at selected bars around London – and paired it with a little magic on a plate!

The Distil Your World experience at Scarfes Bar features a scallop dish served in a malt broth, with fennel, roasted hazelnut and artichoke purée, representative of London’s produce from land and sea. The dish perfectly complements the brothers’ single cask which is warm, spicy and rich in flavour, with notes of ground ginger, fresh oak, toffee and cinnamon.

The Roca brothers’ broth and dram pairing runs from November 2020 at Scarfes Bar and promises to be a formidable duo against a frosty winter in London.

59

The Whisky Shop Paternoster City of London | 7 Queens Head Passage, EC4M 7DZ @thewhiskyshop __________________________________________________________________________

Kieran ____________________________________________________________ » I do a bit of selling at auctions, and I collect a lot of distillery exclusives and limited editions – including The Macallan Edition series. I don’t have the full series just yet… but I’m working on it! Edition No.4 was spectacular and I can’t wait to try Edition No.6 – the colour of it looks incredible.

London 4. Coupette 5. MAP Maison

→

1. The Whisky Shop Piccadilly 2. Scarfes Bar, The Rosewood Hotel 3. The Whisky Shop Paternoster

4

ISLINGTON

HACKNEY

5 →

CLERKENWELL

EAST END

BLOOMSBURY

2 SOHO

HOLBORN

COVENT GARDEN

1 SOUTH BANK

3

CITY

60

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

Coupette Bethnal Green | 423 Bethnal Green Road, E2 0AN | @coupettelondon __________________________________________________________________________

Knowledge Bar Coupette cocktail Code Rouge The Macallan 12 Year Old Sherry Oak Red Ale Vermouth Whisky Barrel Bitters

» Behind an unassuming exterior on a bustling main road lies Coupette. The space may be small, but some of the most famous cocktails of recent years have come from behind the bar of this Bethnal Green boozer.

On the menu, the drinks appear startingly simple. Free from showy garnishes or elaborate glassware, Bartender Arlindo Duarte explains that Coupette’s cocktails allow customers to explore the flavours of each drink without the need of extended explanations.

“Take our Macallan cocktail, for example,” says Arlindo.

“Vermouth, beer and whisky – it’s a very simple yet amazing combination that showcases the spectacular sherry flavours of The Macallan 12 Year Old Sherry Oak.” Coupette currently holds position 23 on the highly coveted list of The World's 50 Best Bars – and 2020’s results are just around the corner, due to be announced in late November.

“It would mean a lot to be on there again,” says Arlindo.

“The team have been working so hard after lockdown and our doors are back open with a great new menu. Here at Coupette, we’re working with the best people and the best spirits. We’re challenged every day and we’re improving all the time.”

61

MAP Maison Dalston | 321 Kingsland Road, E8 4DL | @mapmaison __________________________________________________________________________

Knowledge Bar MAP Maison cocktails Speyside Sun The Macallan 12 Year Old Double Cask Amaro di Angostura Fresh Lime Juice Tonka Bean Hazlenut Tuile

El Almandrillo » One of the East End’s most alluring cocktail dens, MAP Maison is a treasure trove of plush furniture and antique maps, set against the backdrop of a whisky gantry that seems to go on for miles. “We like to think of it as a home away from home,” explains General Manager Heidi Kampa, “where customers receive a five-star hospitality experience, but with the warmth and personality of East London.”

Heidi’s commitment to creating special customer experiences and her passion for mixology led to the creation of a stand-out Macallan cocktail menu, available at the bar throughout 2020’s London Cocktail Month.

“My aim was to showcase the best of The Macallan 12 Double Cask by creating three very different cocktails,” says Heidi. “It’s important to try and widen people’s perception of what a whisky cocktail really is – and showcase how diverse they can be.” Not to mention delicious.

As well as a menu of delectable drinks, the bar’s offering extends to brunch, tapas, afternoon tea, and even a collection of premium cocktails to drink at home, bottled in the bar under the name MAP Lab. “We started MAP Lab in 2018 and it has grown substantially in the past year, with lockdown obviously playing its part,” explains Heidi. “With everything that 2020 has brought upon us, there is a chance that people’s leisure habits are going to change – whether we like it or not – so, I’m very excited to continue to grow MAP Lab, allowing customers who can’t make it to our bar to still enjoy our cocktails from home.”

The Macallan 12 Year Old Double Cask Discarded Vermouth Almond Essence Barrel-aged Whisky Bitters

Marks of Distinction The Macallan 12 Year Old Double Cask Fresh Lemon Juice Raspberry & Amontillado Sherry Shrub Vanilla Essence Egg White Cacao Nibs

62

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

Mixing It Up

Drink and be thankful Amanda Humphrey of Maker’s Mark celebrates Thanksgiving with a selection of brilliantly boozy bourbon serves.

Cocktail Photography: Christina Kernohan

63

64

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

Mixing It Up Produced and matured at a 1,000 acre farm in the heart of Kentucky, founder Bill Samuels’ mash and the farm’s limestone-filtered water source are key in crafting the unique taste of Maker's Mark bourbon. Barrels spend a minimum of three hot Kentucky summers in the distillery’s rackhouse, rotated by hand to ensure proper exposure to the different temperatures, before they are finished in the farm’s limestone cellar. The whiskey is then bottled and sealed with cofounder Margie Samuels’ signature red wax topper, until opened, enjoyed, and shared around the dinner table.

1/ Roasted Pumpkin Ol’ Fashioned 50ml 12.5ml 1 drop 1 drop

Maker’s Mark Cask Strength Roasted Pumpkin Syrup Balsamic Vinegar Lemon Bitters

Method: Add bourbon, syrup, vinegar and bitters to a rocks glass and stir over ice for 20 seconds. Orange zest over the top and garnish.

Glass: Rocks Garnish: Orange Peel

2/ Caramelised Apple Highball 50ml

10ml 10ml

Maker’s Mark Cask Strength infused with Caramelised Apple Honey Water Lemon Juice Soda Water

Method: Build bourbon, honey water, and lemon juice in a highball over ice. Top with soda and garnish.

Glass: Highball Garnish: Dried Apple Ring dusted

with Bee Pollen

3/ Glazed Honey & Thyme Sour 50ml

12.5ml 20ml

Maker's Mark Private Select Batch #4 The Whisky Shop Exclusive Thyme Tea Syrup Fresh Lemon Juice Dash of Orange Bitters

Method: Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker. Dry shake for 10 seconds. Add ice to shaker and shake until the tin begins frosting over. Double strain over ice into a rocks glass.

Glass: Rocks Garnish: Honey & Thyme Glaze

4/ White Cranberry Cobbler 25ml Maker's Mark

Private Select Batch #3

The Whisky Shop Exclusive 25ml Oloroso Sherry 25ml White Cranberry Juice 12.5ml Ginger & Cinnamon Syrup 3 slices Muddled Orange 3 slices Muddled Lemon Method: Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker with ice and shake until the tin begins frosting over.

Strain into a cobbler glass over crushed ice and garnish.

Glass: Cobbler Garnish: Cranberries and Orange Slice

Knowledge Bar Maker's Mark The lineup Maker’s 46

— 47% VOL | £45

Maker’s Mark Cask Strength — 55.05% VOL | £75

5/ Maple Pecan Shake 50ml Maker’s 46 12.5ml Espresso 12.5ml Sugar Syrup 1 scoop Maple Pecan Ice Cream Method: Add all ingredients to a blender and blend until smooth and creamy. Pour into a highball and garnish.

Glass: Highball Garnish: Candied Pecans

Maker's Mark Private Select Batch #3 — The Whisky Shop Exclusive 54.4% VOL | £85

Maker's Mark Private Select Batch #4 — The Whisky Shop Exclusive 54.4% VOL | £85

– all available at www.whiskyshop.com

A winter of mixed drinks For more bourbon cocktail inspiration, follow Amanda on Instagram via @whiskysister, as well as @makersmark.

65

66

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

1/ Roasted Pumpkin Ol’ Fashioned

67

2/ Caramelised Apple Highball

68

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

3/ Glazed Honey & Thyme Sour

69

4/ White Cranberry Cobbler

70

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

5/ Maple Pecan Shake

Christmas, delivered.

Count on us to take care of Christmas.

From gift sets to advent calendars, whisky baubles and more: we’ve got your festive spirits sorted.

→ Buy online → whiskyshop.com

72

Countdown to Christmas

➊ 12 Drams of Christmas 12x3cl | Various% VOL | £89.99 → The ultimate Christmas Eve gift → Enjoy a dram for each of the 12 Days of Christmas → The fun doesn't have to end on Christmas Day!

Turn this year’s Christmas countdown into a month-long discovery of delicious drams.

➋

73

➋ 24 Advent Drams 24x3cl | Various% VOL | £99 → Discover a single malt from every whisky region in Scotland → Plus blended whiskies, world whiskies and more! → Make this year's Christmas countdown one to remember

➌ Scotland in a Box

➍ The Premium Gin Advent Calendar

12x3cl | Various% VOL | £69

24x3cl | Various% VOL | £84.95

→ Enjoy a taste from every corner of Scotland → The perfect accompaniment to New Year's Eve celebrations → End the year on a high!

→ Explore world gins from Scapegrace, Hernö, Four Pillars and more

➎ The Japanese Whisky Advent Calendar

➏ The Bourbon and American Whiskey Advent Calendar

24x3cl | Various% VOL | £200

24x3cl | Various% VOL | £134.95

→ Discover first-class drams from Hibiki, Yamazaki, Hakushu and more

→ Treat your tastebuds to WhistlePig, Rebel Yell, Balcones and more

74

Ready to Gift

➊ The Loch Fyne Gift Box Pick 'n' Mix

➋ Bruichladdich The Classic Laddie Gift Pack

➌ Laphroaig Lore Gift Set

50cl | Various% VOL | From £38 → Create a gift pack with any expression from The Loch Fyne range → Complete with two Glencairn glasses → Presented together in a handsome Loch Fyne gift box

Beautifully packaged and ready to present – our range of gift packs makes shopping for spirits lovers easy.

70cl | 50% VOL | £52

Honey / Vanilla / Malted biscuit

→ A delicious dram created by Master Distiller Jim McEwan → Made from 100% Scottish barley and matured by the shores of Lochindaal → Presented in a vibrant gift box, with two striking whisky glasses

70cl | 48% VOL | £89

Peated smoke / Dark chocolate / Clotted cream

→ A dram that is unmistakably Laphroaig! → Perfect for the peat freak in your life → Complete with two Laphroaig whisky glasses

75

➍ Compass Box Malt Whisky Collection

➎ Midleton Single Pot Still Whiskey Gift Pack

3x5cl | Various% VOL | £25

4x5cl | Various% VOL | £35

→ Discover delicious drams from the signature range of Compass Box → Includes The Peat Monster, The Spice Tree and The Spaniard → Each bottle is beautifully labelled and presented in an elegant box

→ A fantastic introduction to the whiskey of Midleton Distillery → The perfect gift for those looking to explore new tastes → Presented together in a stylish box

➏ Dalmore Port Wood Reserve Gift Set 70cl | 46.5% VOL | £80

Seville oranges / Cherry / Sticky toffee pudding

→ An award-winning dram presented in a stylish gift box → Matured in ex-bourbon casks, American white oak and aged Tawny port pipes → Includes two rocks glasses emblazoned with the iconic Dalmore stag

➐ Jura 12 Year Old Gift Pack 70cl | 40% VOL | £45

Chocolate / Banana / Walnut

→ The perfect balance of sweet and smoky → Matured in American oak and finished in oloroso sherry casks → Presented with two Jura whisky glasses

➑ Highland Park 12 Year Old Gift Pack 70cl | 40% VOL | £40

Vanilla / Peach / Honey

→ Distilled at Scotland’s most northernly distillery → Introduced in 1979, this is the whisky that started it all for Highland Park! → Presented alongside two elegant whisky glasses

76

Something Different

Whether it’s rum, gin or Cognac – we've got something for every spirits lover on your Christmas list.

➊ Silent Pool Gin Gift Pack 70cl | 43% VOL | £67

Elderflower / Chamomile / Honey

→ An award-winning gin from Silent Pool Distillers → Complete with two elegantly decorated copa-style glasses → Serve with a splash of tonic, a twist of orange and a generous handful of ice

➋ Diplomatico Reserva Exclusiva Gift Pack 70cl | 40% VOL | £55

Orange peel / Brown sugar / Liquorice

→ A blended rum from Venezuela → Christmas cake in a bottle! → Presented with two handsome tasting glasses

➊

➋

77

➌ Roku Gin Gift Carton 70cl | 43% VOL | £35

➍ The Botanist Planter Gift Set Green tea / Cherry blossom / Black pepper

→ Takes its name from the Japanese word for 'six’ → Includes the Japanese botanicals yuzu peel, sakura flower and sansho pepper → Presented in a luxury gift carton

➎ Tobermory Gin Gift Carton 70cl | 43.3% VOL | £37

70cl | 46% VOL | £40

Juniper / Apple / Mint

→ The first and only Islay dry gin → Crafted with a selection of 22 locally foraged botanicals → Grow your own garnish with the accompanying herb planter

➏ Hine Rare VSOP Gift Pack Coriander / Orange / Sweet malt

→ A gin for the whisky lover! → Distilled on the Isle of Mull and infused with local botanicals for 24 hours → Mixed with a splash of spirit from the Tobermory whisky still

70cl | 40% VOL | £59

Ginger / Candied orange / Caramel

→ A delicious Cognac first blended by the eponymous Thomas Hine → A blend of eau de vie from the regions of Grande and Petite Champagne → Presented in a luxury gift box alongside two tasting glasses

78

Stocking Fillers and Glassware

➊ Harris Tweed Hip Flask £15 → Crafted with genuine Harris Tweed and available in a variety of colours — a perfect vessel for a favourite tipple!

➋ Noble Isle Whisky & Water Hand Wash

From hip flasks and glassware, to boozy handwash and more – squeeze these into any whisky lover’s Christmas stocking.

£19 → Keep hands clean and enjoy skin-calming malted barley extract in this aromatic hand wash

➋

➊

79

➌ Glencairn Cufflinks

➍ eteaket Tomatin Whisky Tea

➎ eteaket Isle of Harris Gin Tea

£21

£9

£10

→ Wear your dram on your sleeve with a pair of fun whisky glass cufflinks

→ Loose leaf tea enhanced with smoky, fruity aromas from barrel-ageing – a treat for tea and whisky fans alike!

→ Loose leaf tea made with the same Scottish botanicals as Isle of Harris Gin – one for the gin lovers!

→ Buy online → whiskyshop.com

➍

➎

➌

80

Stocking Fillers and Glassware

➊ Glencairn ‘Keep Calm And Have a Dram’ Whisky Glass £7 → 2020 summed up perfectly!

From hip flasks and glassware, to boozy handwash and more – squeeze these into any whisky lover’s Christmas stocking.

➋ Glencairn Crystal Whisky Tumbler

➌ Glencairn Crystal Whisky Glass

£15

£28

→ The perfect glass for adding water, ice, or serving whisky in a cocktail

→ An elegant glass that will make any dram look as good as it tastes

➍ Glencairn Iona Decanter

➎ Glencairn Whisky Glass Two Pack

£120

£15

→ An elegant crystal decanter, complete with four tasting glasses – the ultimate vessel for a favourite whisky

→ Compare and contrast favourite whiskies with a pair of fine Glencairn glasses

81

➏ Malt Whisky Yearbook

➐ Noble Isle Whisky & Water Candle

➑ Noble Isle Whisky & Water Reed Diffuser

£14.95

£40

£49

→ The ultimate whisky guide! Refreshed with the latest information on malt whisky around the world

→ Enjoy warming aromas of the distilleries of Dufftown, with notes of orange blossom and tonka bean

→ Fill the home with calming whisky scents of vanilla, cedarwood, jasmine and amber

➒ Pickering's Gin Baubles 6x5cl | 42% VOL | £30 → Colourful Christmas tree baubles filled to the brim with delicious Pickering’s Gin

→ Buy online → whiskyshop.com

82

Message in a Bottle

Can't be there in person? Say ‘Merry Christmas’ with a personalised video message when purchasing selected single malts online.

➊ Talisker Port Ruighe 70cl | 45.8% VOL | £55

Milk chocolate / Black pepper / Plum

→ ‘Port Ruighe’ is the Gaelic spelling of the trading port on Skye → Double-matured in port casks, this is an expression made for sipping neat! → Personalise this gift with your own video message, free of charge

➋ Talisker 57° North 70cl | 57% VOL | £70

Sea spray / Lemon / Manuka honey

→ Drawn from 100% American oak refill casks → Emphasises Talisker’s unique and intense distillery character → Personalise this gift with your own video message, free of charge

➌ Talisker 10 Year Old 70cl | 45.8% VOL | £42

Pear / Bonfire / Black pepper

→ The classic expression of Talisker’s powerful, coastal malt → Makes for a delicious post-dinner dram → Personalise this gift with your own video message, free of charge

➊

➋

➌

83

➍ Lagavulin Distillers Edition 70cl | 43% VOL | £93.95

➎ The Singleton of Dufftown 12 Year Old Peated smoke / Stewed fruit / Raisins

→ Finished in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks → A beautiful balance of sweet and savoury → Personalise this gift with your own video message, free of charge

70cl | 40% VOL | £42

Buttered toast / Orange zest / Walnut

→ A Speyside single malt aged in European oak casks → A home bar staple – amazing served in a whisky highball → Personalise this gift with your own video message, free of charge

→ Buy online → whiskyshop.com

➍

➎

84

Celebrate at Home

Take Christmas cocktails into your own hands this silly season with our offering of vermouths, liqueurs, bitters and more.

➊

➌

➋

85

➊ Scotch Old Fashioned Glass: Rocks Garnish: Orange Peel Method: Muddle sugar and bitters together in a rocks glass. Add whisky and stir over ice for 20 seconds. Orange zest over the top and garnish.

→ 50ml Macallan 12 Year Old Double Cask → 1 tsp Caster Sugar → 4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters

➌ Manhattan Glass: Martini Garnish: Maraschino Cherry Method: Stir bourbon, vermouth, cherry syrup and Angostura bitters over ice for 30 seconds. Strain into a Martini glass and garnish.

→ 75ml

Eagle Rare 10 Year Old → 30ml

Carpano Antica Formula Vermouth → 5ml

Maraschino Cherry Syrup → 3 dashes Angostura Orange Bitters

➋ Negroni Glass: Rocks Garnish: Orange Peel Method: Stir gin, vermouth and Campari over ice for 25 seconds. Strain into a rocks glass with ice. Orange zest over the top and garnish.

→ 25ml

Roku Gin → 25ml

Carpano Antica Formula Vermouth → 25ml

Campari

➍ Espresso Martini Glass: Nick & Nora Garnish: Coffee Beans Method: Shake vodka and coffee liqueur together with ice until the cocktail shaker frosts over. Strain into a chilled Nick & Nora glass and garnish.

→ 30ml

Haku Vodka → 60ml

Mr Black's Coffee Liqueur → 1/2 tsp Caster Sugar

86

Customer Favourites Light / Floral

➋ Loch Lomond 12 Year Old 70cl | 46% VOL | £45

➌ anCnoc 12 Year Old 70cl | 40% VOL | £38

➊ Fettercairn 12 Year Old 70cl | 40% VOL | £47

Vanilla / Brown sugar / Apple turnover

Produced at Loch Lomond’s bonnie banks-based distillery, where a range of different stills are used to create a stunning variety of single malts. This 12-year-old expression boasts a incredible balance between fruity malt and spice.

Banana / Butterscotch / Custard

Produced at Knochdhu Distillery in the Highlands and matured in a combination of second-fill American oak, ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks, this is an award-winning expression that should sit proudly on your spirits shelf.

Nectarine / Ginger / Pear

Hailing from the village of the same name, this whisky is a masterclass in fruity Highland flavour – perfectly embodying Fettercairn’s exotic fruit-driven character. It has been matured in American oak ex-bourbon for its full 12 years in cask. Simply delicious.

“How many delicious things can you cram into one whisky? Fettercairn 12 Year Old gives it a good go! Marshmallows, pineapple and milk chocolate lead on the nose, giving way to nectarines, bubble gum and sticky ginger cake on the palate.

A real sweet treat.”

→ Jess, The Whisky Shop Piccadilly

➊

➋

➌

87

➍ Balblair 12 Year Old 70cl | 46% VOL | £52

➐ Glen Moray 18 Year Old Sultanas / Honey / Apple

70cl | 47.2% VOL | £85

Matured in American oak, ex-bourbon and double-fired American oak casks, this 12-year-old whisky has an elegant complexity and warmth – the defining expression of Balblair Distillery.

➎ Balblair 15 Year Old 70cl | 46% VOL | £80

➑ Bunnahabhain 12 Year Old Apple / Dates / Caramel

70cl | 46.3% VOL | £47

An older sibling to Balblair 12 Year Old, this whisky perfectly balances unique distillery character with smoothness of age, thanks to a flavour profile of tropical fruits and a texture of melted chocolate. Gorgeous.

➒ Auchroisk 10 Year Old Honey / Vanilla / Malted biscuit

70cl | 43% VOL | £48

A single malt crafted by Bruichladdich legend Jim McEwan, this expression showcases the florality and elegance of the distillery’s house style. Unpeated, The Classic Laddie is the distillery’s signature bottling and the definitive Bruichladdich.

➍

Orange zest / Cut grass / Roasted nuts

A special whisky due to being the only official bottling of Auchroisk Distilllery. This 10-year-old expression is part of Diageo’s Flora & Fauna series – an ode to superb single malts from lesser known distilleries which normally provide liquid for blends.

➒

➐

➏

➎

Dried fruit / Honey / Chestnut

Bunnhabhain’s whiskies are quite distinct from other single malts of the Islay region, in that the majority are produced with unpeated malted barley. Toast the versatility of Islay with this superb 12-year-old expression that showcases Bunnhabhain’s ‘fruit and nut’ signature style.

➏ Bruichladdich The Classic Laddie 70cl | 50% VOL | £52

Heather / Honey / Fudge

A Speyside single malt from the Cairngorms, this expression is aged in the finest American oak barrels, specially selected to emphasise the whisky’s smooth character. It is a whisky that is celebrated for its long and mellow finish.

➑

88

Customer Favourites Rich / Sweet

➋ The Glenrothes Vintage Reserve 70cl | 40% VOL | £40

➌ The Dalmore 12 Year Old 70cl | 40% VOL | £50

➊ Old Pulteney 15 Year Old 70cl | 46% VOL | £75

Cocoa / Marmalade / Milk chocolate

This single malt is a Highland triumph: full-bodied, thick and sweet. A popular dram, known for its long and spicy finish, and a beautifully rich expression for its 12 years of age.

Honey / Salted caramel / Fruitcake

An incredibly balanced single malt that has spent time in American oak ex-bourbon casks and finished in Spanish oak. Spice and sweetness combine with the refreshing coastal notes expected from this seaside distillery to create a delicious dram.

“This whisky is all sea spray and salted caramel cookies, packing in plenty of cinnamon spice before a long, smooth, chocolatey finish. It’s the dram I reach for after a chilly beach walk.”

→ Alice, The Whisky Shop Edinburgh

Cherry / Fruitcake / Caramel

This easy-drinking expression from Glenrothes Distillery marries the liquid of ten different vintages from between 1989 and 2007, achieving the perfect balance of vibrant youth and mellow maturity.

➋ ➌

➊

➍

89

➍ The BenRiach 12 Year Old Sherry Wood 70cl | 46% VOL | £48

➐ The Dalmore 15 Year Old

Vanilla / Apricot / Figs

A Speyside single malt matured in sherry casks, before being finished in a combination of Pedro Ximénez and oloroso sherry casks. This expression oozes layers upon layers of spice, sweet fruits and toasted oak.

➎ Arran 10 Year Old 70cl | 46% VOL | £45

Apple / Cinnamon / Digestive biscuits

➏ Benrinnes 15 Year Old

70cl | 43% VOL | £52

Toffee apple / Sherry / Malted biscuit

➏

Walnut / Cinnamon / Fruitcake

Established in 1798, Blair Athol is one of Scotland’s oldest working distilleries and is famed for producing the signature malt for Bell’s blend. A delicious dram, this is one of only a few official bottlings ever released from the distillery.

➐

This 15-year-old Speyside single malt is partially triple-distilled at Benrinnes Distillery, resulting in a sultry expression that packs in plenty of body and character. It is another bottling from Diageo’s Flora & Fauna series, highlighting the versatility of distilleries producing liquid for blends.

➎

Chocolate orange / Fruitcake / Sherry

An older sibling to The Dalmore 12 Year Old, this expression has been matured for 15 years in a trio of ex-sherry casks (Matusalem, Apostoles and Amoroso sherry), as well as ex-bourbon barrels. It offers all of the sweetness and spice expected of The Dalmore.

➑ Blair Athol 12 Year Old

An award-winning whisky that captures the fresh and unique style of this Western Isle distillery and its Arran malt. A worthy addition to your whisky cabinet, this expression offers a fantastic introduction to the flavours from Arran.

70cl | 43% VOL | £52

70cl | 40% VOL | £72

➑

90

Customer Favourites Rich / Sweet

➋ Glenfiddich Project XX 70cl | 47% VOL | £50

➌ Glen Moray 15 Year Old 70cl | 40% VOL | £55

➊ Benromach 10 Year Old 70cl | 43% VOL | £39.99

Dark chocolate / Sherry / Fudge

Unquestionably Speyside in character, this expression showcases a carefully matured, complex and well-rounded whisky, aged in a combination of sherry and American oak casks, and influenced by Elgin’s unique climate.

Green apple / Toffee / Black cherry

➌

Produced at the family-owned distillery in Forres and aged for a decade in first-fill bourbon and sherry casks, Benromach’s 10-year-old is a dram that is unmistakably Speyside in flavour. It is the proud winner of multiple gold awards.

“The ultimate all-rounder! A little peat, a little malt and a little sherry sweetness all work together in perfect harmony, producing notes of peach, smoked apple sauce and a good whack of vanilla. Enjoy it with your Christmas turkey.”

Tom, The Whisky Shop Birmingham

Cinnamon / Almond / Pear drops

The result of one of the most ambitious malt experiments undertaken by Glenfiddich, bringing together 20 whisky experts from around the world and combining each of their selected Glenfiddich casks. The result is something spectacular.

➋

➊

➍

91

➍ Glen Scotia Victoriana 70cl | 54.2% VOL | £73

➐ Oban Distillers Edition Creme brûlée / Cocoa / Caramel

70cl | 43% VOL | £79

Inspired by the whiskies produced at Glen Scotia distillery in the Victorian times, this expression has been relaunched at a slightly higher strength and bottled straight from cask to better reflect how historic expressions of this era would have tasted. Delicious!

➎ The GlenDronach 18 Year Old Allardice 70cl | 46% VOL | £120

➑ The GlenDronach 12 Year Old

Stewed fruit / Walnut / Cherry

70cl | 43% VOL | £49

An ode to James Allardice who founded the distillery and produced the very first drops of “guid Glendronach,” this expression has been matured in the finest oloroso sherry casks.

Rich and dark, it offers remarkable depth of flavour.

➏ Highland Park 18 Year Old Viking Pride 70cl | 43% VOL | £110

Milk chocolate / Sea salt / Christmas cake

A distillery renowned for its innovation, each expression of Oban Distillers Edition undergoes double maturation in casks that have previously held a fortified wine. This edition has been finished in a Montilla Fino cask – a rare type of finish and a complete treat!

Marmalade / Sherry / Raisins

An award-winning expression from the distillery famous for its richly sherried offering – this 12-year-old is a firm favourite amongst our customers. Matured in both Pedro Ximénez and oloroso sherry casks, this expression offers an indulgent portfolio of flavours.

➐

→ Buy online → whiskyshop.com

Fruit salad / Cinnamon / Allspice

Named ‘Best Spirit in the World’ in the Spirit Journal on two separate occasions, this 18-year-old offers the perfect balance of harmony, complexity and refinement. A consistently excellent malt from Orkney's Highland Park Distillery.

➎ ➏

➑

92

Customer Favourites Smoky ➊ Caol Ila Distillers Edition 70cl | 43% VOL | £75

➋ Talisker Port Ruighe 70cl | 45.8% VOL | £55

Cocoa / Plum / Spicy pepper

Rich and fruity, Talisker have taken their Isle of Skye malt and finished it in ruby port casks to achieve this delicious dram. 'Port Ruighe' (pronounced 'Portree') is the Gaelic spelling of the once bustling trading port on Skye.

➌ Ailsa Bay 1.2 70cl | 48.9% VOL | £60

➋

Vanilla / Shortbread / Campfire ember

Ailsa Bay 1.2 has undergone the distillery’s signature micro-maturation process – rapid maturation in ex-bourbon casks before ageing in virgin American oak casks for several years – achieving a single malt that’s even sweeter and smokier than its predecessor. Beautiful.

Malted biscuit / Peat smoke / Cinnamon

A sweeter expression from the Islay distillery due to time spent in moscatel casks at the end of its maturation process. The result is a delicious layer of sweetness and dried fruits on top of classic Caol Ila peat smoke.

“For me, sherry and peat make the perfect Christmas whisky combination. Cigar smoke, candied pecans, and a sweet, sweet pineapple finish: this is dinner and dessert rolled into one.”

→ Craig, The Whisky Shop Oban

➊

➋

➌

93

➍ Port Charlotte 10 Year Old 70cl | 50% VOL | £62

➏ Loch Lomond 12 Year Old Inchmoan Salted caramel / Peat smoke / Ginger

The flagship release in Bruichladdich's heavily-peated range, this single malt is packed to the brim with characteristic Port Charlotte smoke. Aged in American oak and French wine casks, the liquid has been distilled, matured and bottled entirely on Islay.

➎ Jura 18 Year Old 70cl | 44% VOL | £75

70cl | 46% VOL | £50

Vanilla / Medicinal smoke / Pear drops

A unique expression made up of whisky from a traditional swan neck pot still and whisky from a straight neck pot still, achieving great depth and unconventional peat character within this 12-year-old Highland single malt.

➐ Balvenie The Week of Peat 14 Year Old Dark chocolate / Coffee / Blackcurrant jam

The oldest expression in Jura’s signature range, Jura 18 Year Old has been aged in American white oak ex-bourbon barrels and enriched by Premier Grand Cru Classé red wine barriques.

70cl | 48.3% VOL | £65

Peat smoke / Butterscotch / Honey

The second release in The Balvenie Stories series, this expression was created by Distillery Manager Ian Millar who was inspired by a trip to Islay. For one week each year, Balvenie distil peated malt, introducing fragrant notes of smoke to the distillery’s classic Speyside character.

→ Buy online → whiskyshop.com

➍

➎

➏

➐

94

Customer Favourites International ➊ Tyrconnell 16 Year Old Oloroso & Moscatel Cask Finish 70cl | 46.3% VOL | £80

“A tropical fruit fiesta in a bottle – this is my go-to party malt! Notes of coconut, banoffee pie and crumbled Crunchie bar develop into a lingering sherried spice – the perfect dram to bring in the new year.”

➊

50cl | 40% VOL | £55

Tropical fruit / Vanilla / Cinnamon

One of the most awarded Asian whiskies of all time, this Taiwanese whisky is made using the pure spring water that flows through the Snow Mountain of Yilan, before maturing in American oak and port barriques. Something different, and something delicious.

➌ Maker’s 46 70cl | 47% VOL | £45

Nutmeg / Mulled wine / Caramel

Filled into a barrel partly made of seared French oak staves, this stunning Kentucky bourbon packs plenty of spice and is named after the final recipe chosen by its creators – recipe number 46.

Honeycomb / Grapefruit / Spiced oak

A limited edition expression of Cooley Distillery’s Irish single malt that has spent time in American white oak ex-bourbon barrels before being finished in Oloroso sherry and moscatel wine casks from Andalucia. A winning combination.

→ AJ, The Whisky Shop York

➋ Kavalan Concertmaster

➋

➌

95

➍ Green Spot 70cl | 40% VOL | £46

➐ Roe & Co Vanilla / Papaya / Chocolate

70cl | 45% VOL | £35

Produced at Midleton Distillery in Ireland and comprised of pot still whiskeys aged between seven and ten years old, this whiskey was once only available to buy at one grocery store in Dublin. It is now a whiskey held to high acclaim across the world – and rightly so!

➎ Redbreast 12 Year Old 70cl | 40% VOL | £50

➑ Tullamore D.E.W. 14 Year Old Ginger / Marzipan / Dried fruit

70cl | 41.3% VOL | £57

This 12-year-old expression is an Irish single pot still whiskey full of aroma and flavour, praised by critics worldwide. Matured in ex-bourbon barrels and oloroso sherry casks, you can thank the latter for giving this whiskey its signature Christmas cake flavour.

➏ Bulleit Bourbon 10 Year Old 70cl | 45.6% VOL | £49

Pear drops / Allspice / Vanilla

Developed by Diageo Master Blender Caroline Martin, this is a whiskey that can be enjoyed neat or hold its own in a cocktail. A tasty blend of malt and grain from various distilleries across Ireland, this expression has been matured predominantly in first-fill bourbon casks.

Vanilla / Honey / Apple

A delicious dram that has been triple distilled in true Irish tradition. Aged for up to 14 years in ex-bourbon barrels, this expression was then finished for a minimum of 6 months in a range of different casks, including oloroso sherry butts, port pipes and Madeira drums.

➐ Apricot / Vanilla / Cinnamon

A top-notch Kentucky bourbon that has spent a decade in oak. With a mash bill of 68% corn, 28% rye and 4% malted barley, this is the go-to bourbon for a rich balance of creaminess and spice.

➍

➏

➑

➎

96

D

I

R

Our Stores

E

C T O

South LONDON

169 Piccadilly London, W1J 9EH 0207 499 6649

LONDON

R Y

North GATESHEAD

Unit 1/9 Red Mall Intu Metro Centre NE11 9YP 0191 460 3777

Unit 7, Queens Head Passage Paternoster EC4M 7DZ 0207 329 5117

MANCHESTER

LAKESIDE

11 Coppergate Walk YO1 9NT 0190 4640 300

Unit 510 Intu Shopping Centre Brompton Walk Thurrock Grays RM20 2ZL 01708 866 255

BRIGHTON

64 East Street BN1 1HQ 01273 327 962

GUILDFORD

25 Chapel Street GU1 3UL 01483 450 900

BATH

9–10 High Street BA1 5AQ 01225 423 535

3 Exchange Street M2 7EE 0161 832 6110

YORK

STOKE-ON-TRENT Unit 210 Trentham Gardens ST4 8AX 01782 644 483

NOTTINGHAM 3 Cheapside NG1 2HU 0115 958 7080

BIRMINGHAM

Unit 9 Great Western Arcade B2 5HU 0121 233 4416

Scotland GLASGOW

France

Unit L2–02 Buchanan Galleries 220 Buchanan Street G1 2GF 0141 331 0022

PARIS

7 Place de la Madeleine 75008 +33 1 45 22 29 77

EDINBURGH

Unit U23 Waverley Mall Waverley Bridge EH1 1BQ 0131 558 7563

EDINBURGH 28 Victoria St EH1 2JW 0131 225 4666

INVERNESS

17 Bridge Street IV1 1HG 0146 3710 525

FORT WILLIAM 93 High Street PH33 6DG 0139 7706 164

OBAN

52 George Street PA34 5SD 0163 1570 896

OXFORD

7 Turl St OX1 3DQ 01865 202 279

NORWICH

3 Swan Lane NR2 1HZ 01603 618 284

Shop Online

Click & Collect

Under the Hammer

Join the Club

Read and Share

Head to whiskyshop.com to browse our full collection, including new releases, exclusive bottlings and spirits shelf classics.

Choose your next bottle and have it delivered straight to your door.

Now it’s even easier to buy at The Whisky Shop. Use our Click & Collect service to pick up selected bottles from your local shop that very same day!

Place your bids and sell your bottles via our expert auctions service. Visit whiskyshop.com/auctions to register and begin buying, selling, or both.

Join The W Club and you will receive all future editions of Whiskeria and a host of other exclusive benefits!

Visit issuu.com/whiskeria to read the latest magazine online and follow live links to your favourite products.

www.thewclub.co.uk Follow us: — /thewhiskyshop

97

98

Whiskeria Winter 2020–21

Expert Tasting

Expert Tasting: Woodford Reserve Baccarat Edition Whiskeria’s whisky expert Charlie MacLean samples the most expensive Woodford Reserve ever released.

“Almond-scented hand cream and coconut oil, on a base of Cognac.

In 2000 I interviewed Bill Creason, General Manager of Brown-Forman Distillers, owner of Jack Daniels and, since 2016, GlenDronachBenRiach Distillers. He told me how Woodford Reserve was conceived in a hotel room in Louisville, Kentucky, where he and five senior colleagues were incarcerated for three days, briefed to come up with recommendations for the creation of a super-premium bourbon.

“We established three principles. First, we needed a home-place for the brand – and an authentic home-place, not Disneyland. Second, we identified an opportunity to educate and inform about bourbon.

Third, we stressed that it must be a long-term commitment. We had the full support of the top brass at Brown-Forman, including Bill Street, President of Beverages, and Owsley Brown, our Chairman and CEO. “Then we hired an architecture student and told him to find us a site in Kentucky which had plenty of heritage and a good story to tell. After seven months he came up with the Labrot & Graham Distillery, in Woodford County, about an hour from Louisville, where Brown-Forman’s headquarters is located.”

The Labrot & Graham Distillery was founded in 1812. During the 1830s its owner, Oscar Pepper, hired the Scottish physician, Dr. James Crow, known as ‘the father of modern bourbon’, to

apply scientific rigour to distilling. Crow’s achievements included perfecting the sourmash technique, introducing saccharometers and pH testing, and being the first to recognise the importance of charring barrels. Ironically, Brown-Forman owned the distillery between 1940 and 1972, selling it to a company which planned to make industrial alcohol. This project was never realised, and the charming old limestone buildings became derelict.

“When we bought it back in 1994, all the old Brown-Forman signage, letterheads, etc., were still there. We spent $13 million restoring the distillery…

“It is very traditional. We’ve gone back to how bourbon was made in the last century – with cypress wood fermenters and copper pot stills; very long fermentations, batch production, triple distillation and so on… Our stills were made for us by Forsyth of Rothes, on Speyside. We needed a lot of help in how to run the damn things, and Edwin Dodson, manager of Glen Moray Distillery in Elgin was really helpful.”

Restoration and installation took several years, but Brown-Forman wanted to launch the brand, to be named Woodford Reserve, before the new distillery was commissioned. “So, we asked the Master Distiller at our Early Times Distillery in Louisville to select some of his ‘honey’ barrels, the top 1.5% of his inventory, and ship

them down to finish their maturation at Labrot & Graham. This was originally intended as a stopgap, but the brand’s success means that we now have to reproduce the exact character of the whiskey in the new distillery.” Indeed, Woodford Reserve was voted ‘Best Bourbon’ by the people of Kentucky in a poll run by Kentucky Monthly magazine in October 1996.

Woodford Reserve Baccarat Edition is a highly premium whiskey presented in a superdeluxe crystal decanter, each handmade by the leading French glassmaker, Baccarat. The company describes it as “the ultimate expression from Woodford Reserve” and “the only American whiskey currently available in the precious crystal.”

The whiskey itself has been finished in French oak barriques which have contained XO Cognac for at least three seasons and the result is “the best of both spirits – a balance of crisp American and French oak notes, complex fruit character, subtle spiciness and a creamy confectionary finish,” according to Woodford’s Master Distiller, Chris Morris.

A very elegant and sophisticated bourbon.

99

Tasting notes

Woodford Reserve Baccarat Edition Bright amber with copper lights; moderate beading.

Highly aromatic, with tropical fruit top notes (papaya, pineapple, mango), supported by almond-scented hand cream and coconut oil, on a base of Cognac. A drop of water adds fresh oak shavings. A creamy texture and a very sweet taste with a spicy finish and a long, perfumed aftertaste, becoming oaky at reduced strength.

70cl — Kentucky Bourbon

45.2% Vol ÂŁ1,500

Woodford Reserve Baccarat Edition has been finished in French oak barriques which contained XO Cognac for at least three seasons.