Summer Whiskeria 2021

Summer folk

Rachel Sermanni goes back to her roots EDITION

IN THIS ISSUE

Summer 2021

New Releases: Summer Sippers Industry Insider: House of Suntory A Time in History: Cutty Sark The W Club: Sherry Bombs

PRICE

£4.50

(where sold)

THE MAGAZINE OF

Auctions: Festival Season Distillery Visit: Glen Scotia Mixing It Up: Hi-Spirits Expert Tasting: Gleann Mór

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

Advertorial

Somewhere beyond the sea From life in the navy to whisky making on Jura, Distillery Manager Graham Logan reflects on his journey to the remote west coast isle.

Graham, you’ve spent 33 years on Jura (and almost 30 years at the distillery), but the story of how you ended up on the island is a little unconventional. Tell us how you came to live there.

Before my life on Jura, I was in the Royal Navy.

In 1987, I was on a Type 42 destroyer called HMS Liverpool on station in the Arctic Circle off Murmansk, with no mail for ten weeks.

When we passed Norway on the way home we received all of our mail, and I had a letter from my parents saying they had moved to the Isle of Jura. We passed Jura on the trip home and, after counting a total of only four houses, I did wonder to myself, “What have they done?”

I ultimately left the navy as I wanted to be closer to my family – and as such, I ended up living on Jura!

Jura is well known for its tight-knit community. Were you given a warm welcome?

I was indeed. In fact, on my first night on the island, I took a walk down to the pub and was subsequently invited to a 21st birthday party. I actually met my wife that night, although it wasn’t until after I left the navy that we got together.

Tell us a little bit about life on the island.

It’s said that most islanders have multiple jobs – is this true of you?

It is. Many people on the island have multiple jobs as that’s what makes the island work properly. I have my own croft, and my own animals. My secondary job in the navy was firefighting which was always my desired career – and I’m now the deputy leader of the volunteer fire unit on Jura, too.

the samples – he taught me so much about the spirit, and what to look for.

Have you always had a love of whisky?

I must confess, I haven’t always loved whisky – and I didn’t intend to be a distiller! The job came as the result of being the only open vacancy on the island when I moved to Jura.

I started in the warehouses and have worked my way up. Being a navy man, rum was always my drink of choice, but over the years I have come to love whisky and now enjoy drinking it neat or with water.

How do you achieve this distillery character in production?

Jura Distillery is home to some unusually tall stills – they are 26 feet tall. The stills are a lampglass shape, which means they have a narrow waist. In addition to this, due to the size of the still neck, the copper to vapour contact causes lots of reflux, and the lyne arm slopes slightly towards the condenser which creates even more reflux, helping to form that lovely, light new make spirit.

Who was your mentor in the early days of working at the distillery?

I’ve had some great mentors in the distillery.

My first manager was Willie Tait, and I remember the first mistake I made in front of him. A load of peated barley arrived at the distillery one time when I had a cold, and I didn’t nose the barley. I mashed it and I remember Willie catching the aroma of the peated barley and giving me a big telling off!

Willie was very keen to train people in nosing

Jura is known for its signature style and distinction from the distilleries of its neighbour, Islay. How would you describe Jura’s distillery character?

I’d describe the character of Jura whisky as vibrant, fresh, and lively – just like the islanders who make it.

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And how does Jura’s landscape help shape the character of the whisky?

Being by the sea definitely helps with shaping the character. On a windy day, my car can quickly be covered in salt spray when parked by the sea front. That salt carries on into the air, and this gets drawn into the cask, contributing to a smoother spirit.

We are also blessed by the Gulf Stream on our west coast. This brings lots of important rain and also keeps our climate relatively mild, which helps to extend our maturation cycles – as the warehouse very rarely falls below 6°C. Talk to us about maturation. Which types of cask lend themselves well to Jura spirit?

Jura gets on particularly well with exbourbon American white oak casks – and most of our whisky begins the maturation process in this type of cask. But the light nature of Jura means that it works well maturing in many different casks – Jura Seven Wood is a great example of this.

Jura has a population of roughly 200 islanders, with one distillery and one pub.

What are the challenges of making whisky on such a tiny island?

Logistically, making whisky on an island can be a challenging experience. For example, weather can knock out the ferry service for several days at a time, which can stop barley from reaching the island. If anything goes wrong, sourcing parts can be a challenge too, although our neighbours on Islay will often help us if we’re caught short – and vice versa.

Working at the distillery for three decades, what has been the biggest change you’ve witnessed?

When I started at the distillery in 1991, the annual production was 1.5 million litres of spirit – and only 300,000 litres of that was destined for Jura single malt. Last year, we did 2.4 million litres of production – all destined for Jura single malt – so you can see the increase in size and scale of demand over the years.

Tell us a bit about the distillery’s latest release, Jura Rare Vintage 1990.

This release was distilled on 5th December 1990 and was matured in American white oak ex-bourbon barrels for 26 years, before being finished for three years in an amoroso oloroso sherry butt. There are only 900 bottles available – and it’s utterly delectable! Black

Forest fruits, apple pie and vanilla custard stand out among other delicious notes.

What is your favourite thing about living on Jura?

My best nights on Jura have been in the only pub on the island. A night spent there during the Islay and Jura Whisky Festival, Fèis Ìle, or the Jura Music Festival? You can’t beat it.

Good music, good friends, a huge selection of Jura whisky behind the bar and some jigs.

I can’t wait for the pub to open again.

❝

I’d describe the character of Jura whisky as vibrant, fresh, and lively – just like the islanders who make it.

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

As I See It

A summer like no other It’s all about the staycation, says Executive Chairman Ian Bankier, who shares his top Whisky Shop spots to visit across the UK.

Welcome back to a slightly ‘new look’ summer edition of Whiskeria. With the pandemic seemingly on its way out and our shops once more back in business, there is much to be cheerful for. Although we will miss many of our foreign visitors to the UK this summer, we still expect to meet and greet plenty of folks who make it to our stores.

We are located in pretty much all of the great places to visit, from Inverness at the top to Brighton on the south coast.

As I see it, this is the year to holiday at home. The UK is not that big and it is possible to string together a number of short breaks, all accessible by train or road and capable of coming in under most budgets. Here are my top picks.

London remains one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world.

This year, international visitor numbers will be substantially down and the top spots in London should have a relaxed feel to them. Visit our magnificent store in fashionable Piccadilly, then drop down to the Embankment and catch the River Bus to Greenwich, where you will find the Cutty Sark.

From London there is easy access by rail to the Roman city of Bath, the seaside of Brighton or the spires of Oxford. You will find us in all of these destinations.

Equally, Edinburgh is another top international attraction that will be less frenzied. Visit the castle esplanade and look out across the city to the Firth of Forth, then stroll down Victoria Street and drop into our shop on the way to the Grassmarket.

From Edinburgh you can take the fast train to Glasgow to find a city, no less attractive, but with a completely different buzz – and another Whisky Shop! From either Glasgow or Edinburgh you can access the rest of Scotland and there is much to see and do.

If you travel the west coast, you will find us in Oban and Fort William. The trip from Fort William through the Great Glen and along the shores of Loch Ness is the quintessential Scottish Highland experience and you arrive at Inverness where you will find us down by the river.

Whatever you do and wherever you wander, look out for us. We will be delighted to see you, show you something different and allow you taste and buy something truly special.

Slàinte!

Ian P Bankier Executive Chairman

❝

We are located in pretty much all of the great places to visit, from Inverness at the top to Brighton on the south coast.

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MADE BY A TINY ISLAND COMMUNITY I NTRODUCI NG R AR E VI NTAG E 1990

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

Contents

Contents: Summer 2021 11 26 28 32 36 40 44 52 64 75 98

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New Releases | Summer 2021 News | Whisky business The W Club | Sugar, spice and everything nice Auctions | Festival season A Time in History | Three sheets to the wind Industry Insider | House of Suntory Distillery Visit | Glen Scotia Interview | Rachel Sermanni Mixing It Up | Hi-Spirits The Whisky Shop | Gifts for Dad, Independence Day + more Expert Tasting | Gleann Mór

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Competition

Win!

A bottle of this year’s Glen Scotia festival release or a Glen Scotia taster pack.

For our summer competition, we have one bottle of Glen Scotia’s 2021 festival release up for grabs, as well as Glen Scotia taster packs for three lucky runners-up.

A limited edition created to celebrate the Campbeltown Malts Festival, Glen Scotia’s festival release for 2021 is the result of ten years spent in first-fill bourbon barrels, followed by a five-month finish in first-fill Bordeaux Medoc red wine casks. Bottled at 56.1% VOL, this spectacular dram combines succulent red berries, citrus and sweet honey with Glen Scotia’s classic character of sea salt, fruity notes and a hint of spice.

As well as this, three runners-up can get their hands on a Glen Scotia taster pack, featuring 5cl bottles of Glen Scotia 15 Year Old, Glen Scotia Double Cask and Glen Scotia Victoriana.

FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN, SIMPLY VISIT:

whiskyshop.com/whiskeria-competition

Competition closes Monday 9th August 2021. T&Cs apply.

Winners will be contacted directly.

Distillery Visit

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

Contributors

Contributors I L LUSTR AT I ON : F R A N C ES CA WA DDEL L

Charles MacLean —

Whiskeria’s resident whisky guru, Charles has been researching and writing books on the water of life since 1981. Charles’ bestsellers include award-winning World Whisky and Scotch Whisky: A Liquid History and his extensive knowledge on the subject led to him becoming the script advisor for Ken Loach’s 2012 film The Angels’ Share. In fact, Charles’ whisky expertise was so hot that he landed himself a part in the film – a feat he claims to be his biggest career highlight to date! Each edition we ask Charles to try what’s new on the shelves of The Whisky Shop, and we’re sure you’ll agree that his sensational tasting notes never disappoint.

New Releases

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Brian Wilson —

Formerly an MP, Brian held several posts during his political career, including Minister of Trade. Brian now lives on the Isle of Lewis where he pursues various business interests, notably in the energy sector. As the chairman of Harris Tweed Hebrides, Brian is credited with leading the regeneration of the Harris Tweed industry. Brian’s first love is writing, and in his spare time he continues to write books and opinion pieces for national newspapers – as well as delving into the fascinating history of whisky for each edition of Whiskeria.

Gavin D Smith —

One of the world’s most prolific and respected whisky writers, Gavin is regularly published in the top magazines within the whisky scene.

He’s written and co-authored more than 20 books on the subject, including A-Z of Whisky, The Secret Still, and Goodness Nose. Gavin has the envy-inducing task of scoping out the whisky industry’s new and best-loved distilleries for Whiskeria readers, visiting a new distillery each edition. With his exquisite palate and whisky credentials, Gavin is undeniably the whisky lover for the job!

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A Time in History

Distillery Visit

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A WO R L D O F F L AV O U R

D I S COV E R W H AT W E ’ R E M A D E O F benriach.com

Savour with time. Drink responsibly.

Benriach is a registered trademark. ©2021 Benriach. All rights reserved.

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

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New Releases: Summer 2021

Reviewed by Charles MacLean

Balblair / Duncan Taylor The Dalmore / Loch Lomond / Littlemill / Glenfiddich / Glen Scotia / Benriach / Laphroaig / First Editions Blair Athol / Old Malt Cask Blair Athol / Old Malt Cask Caol Ila / Old Malt Cask Jura / First Editions Glenburgie / Heroes and Heretics George Dickel

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

New Releases

Balblair 2006 #78 The W Club Exclusive 70cl 14 Year Old Highland Single Malt

55.8% VOL £185

Deep amber, with excellent beading and viscosity; nose-drying with some prickle.

The top notes are fruity (baked pear, then tarte tatin and a suggestion of fruit loaf), with kitchen spices and white pepper, on a lightly oaky base.

A mouth-filling, oily texture and a sweet taste finishing spicy, with suggestions of candied fruit in the aftertaste.

“Baked pear, then tarte tatin and a suggestion of fruit loaf, with kitchen spices and white pepper…

Balblair Distillery stands near Tain in Ross-shire, overlooking the Dornoch Firth, in a district reputed to have the cleanest air in Scotland.

Ross-shire is, of course, the home country of Clan Ross. Indeed the distillery was founded by one John Ross – in 1790, which makes it one of the earliest licensed distilleries – and managed by his descendants for just over a century. A former chief of the clan, Sir Ronald Ross, was the first Briton to be awarded a Nobel Prize, in 1902, for proving that malaria was transmitted by mosquitos. Curiously, the groundwork for his study had been done by Sir Patrick Manson, son of the owner of Glen Garioch Distillery. Today, four out of the ten staff at Balblair bear the name Ross.

The present distillery is one of the prettiest in Scotland.

It was designed by the leading distillery architect of the day, Charles Doig, and completed in 1895. It was sited some way from the original distillery, in order to take advantage of the newly built Inverness and Rossshire railway.

John Macdonald, Balblair’s legendary manager, says of his spirit: “Balblair single malt is intriguingly complex and satisfying. We capture the intense esters at the start of the spirit cut to give our whisky the core characteristics of apricots, oranges, spices, floral notes and green apples. The heavier oils and lipids at the end of the cut are also captured, giving leathery, nutty and full-bodied characteristics.”

This single cask from 2006 – bottled exclusively for members of The W Club – is a first-fill, sherry seasoned, Spanish oak butt and has yielded 378 bottles. The cask has modified the distillery character outlined

by John, but has not dominated the overall flavour. It is a superb example of the make.

The W Club

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Duncan Taylor The Octave The Dalmore 2004 16 Year Old The Whisky Shop Exclusive 70cl 16 Year Old Highland Single Malt

“Marzipan glazed with caramel, the base dipped in dark chocolate, decorated with a walnut.

55.3% VOL £285

Deep amber; polished mahogany; exceptional beading. A mellow nose, with some prickle.

The top note is of marzipan (glazed with caramel, the base dipped in dark chocolate, decorated with a walnut), supported by dried mixed herbs. Water introduces caramel and warm sand.

A mouth-filling texture and a taste which starts lightly sweet, becoming savoury and chilli-spicy at natural strength; rounded and softened at reduced strength.

Duncan Taylor & Co., which supplied this single cask expression of The Dalmore to The Whisky Shop, was founded in Glasgow as a whisky broker and trading company in 1938. In the 1960s the company was bought by Abe Rosenburg, a New Yorker who had made a fortune as the legendary salesman for the Paddington Corporation, agents for Justerini & Brooks – by 1955 J&B Rare was the leading brand of Scotch whisky in New York. Rosenburg invested heavily in casks of new and mature whisky and at the time of his death in 1994, Duncan Taylor owned 4,500 casks, some of which still remain in the portfolio.

The company with its huge inventory was bought by Euan Shand in 2002 and moved to Huntly in Aberdeenshire, where

it bottles a wide range of malt and grain whiskies and creates the outstanding blended Scotch, Black Bull.

The Dalmore Distillery at Alness in Ross-shire is owned by Whyte & Mackay, its whisky curated by that company’s master blender, Richard Paterson. In 2017 a unique collection of 12 bottles bearing his name – filled to celebrate his fiftieth year in the whisky industry; the oldest dating from 1926 – was sold for £1,000,000, a record price at the time.

The distillery was founded in 1839 and has several unique features which contribute to the flavour of the spirit.

The four wash stills have flat tops rather than swan necks, which makes for a heavy, musky style, while the four spirit stills

are fitted with water jackets around their necks so the copper is continually cooled, increasing reflux and making for a lighter spirit. Furthermore, one of the spirit stills is twice as large as the other three and produces a very different style of spirit – citric fruits and aromatic spices. The two styles are mixed prior to being filled into cask. It is claimed that the stills are the oldest in the Highlands; part of one of them dates from 1874.

Unusually, this expression of The Dalmore was drawn from an octave cask – one eighth of a butt, or around 60 litres.

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

New Releases

Loch Lomond 45 Year Old 70cl 45 Year Old Highland Single Malt

42.2% VOL £3,450

Amber in colour (humbugs), with slow-running legs.

The nose is delicately floral (rose-scented hand cream, orange blossom) fading into fruit salad (sugar syrup, with apricots and peaches).

A creamy texture and a sweet, spicy taste, drying slightly in the long finish and leaving a cooling, eucalyptic aftertaste.

Highly sophisticated.

“Delicately floral (rosescented hand cream, orange blossom) fading into fruit salad…

This is the first release in the distillery’s Remarkable Stills series, which celebrates Loch Lomond’s curious range of pot and column stills – in this case their unique straight-necked hybrid stills, depicted on the handmade stained oak box which accompanies each of the 200 bottles in this limited edition.

The hybrid stills were designed by the American-born entrepreneur and chemist, Duncan Thomas, for Littlemill Distillery which he had bought in 1931. In partnership with Barton Brands of Chicago (agents for The Glenlivet in the USA), Thomas founded Loch Lomond Distillery in a former dye factory at Alexandria, not far from Littlemill,

in 1965/66 and installed his hybrid stills there from the outset.

In appearance and operation they are not unlike the Lomond stills invented in 1955 by Alistair Cunningham, chief engineer with the Canadian distiller Hiram Walker-Gooderham & Worts, which were installed at Inverleven, Glenburgie and Miltonduff Distilleries. The traditional ogee, head and lyne arm are replaced by a straight-sided drum fitted with a number of rectifying plates, not unlike a column still. By adjusting the plates, several styles of spirit may be created, lighter or heavier depending on the contact the alcohol vapour has with copper.

The spirit may also be drawn off at varying strengths, generally higher than that of traditional pot stills. Michael Henry, Loch Lomond’s master blender responsible for the Remarkable Stills series, writes: “Spirit taken off at high strength has a distinctive fruit character, which has become Loch Lomond Distillery’s signature and comes to the forefront of this release.”

It goes without saying that this longaged expression of Loch Lomond is entirely made in straight-necked stills. The spirit is unpeated. It will be interesting to see what Michael comes up with next in the series.

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Littlemill Testament 1976 70cl 44 Year Old Lowland Single Malt

42.5% VOL £7,999

Pale amber; refill American oak. A mild nose-feel, but still vital. The top notes are fruity (bruised apple, baked apple, sour rowan jelly) and faintly floral (dried rose petals). Beneath this, almond oil and desiccated coconut. The base notes are hessian and oak shavings.

Wears its age proudly.

“Bruised apple, baked apple, sour rowan jelly… Beneath this, almond oil and desiccated coconut.

This is the oldest Littlemill ever released and is limited to a mere 250 bottles – each presented in a handblown glass decanter.

The whisky is drawn from three refill exbourbon casks, selected by Loch Lomond’s master blender, Michael Henry, married for four months in a first-fill oloroso cask, then returned to refill ex-bourbon for two further months. In spite of its age it has retained the distillery character and fresh vibrancy, owing to the casks having been filled at 48% VOL, rather than the usual 43.4% VOL. Littlemill began as a brewery, founded during the fourteenth century and located adjacent to Dunglass Castle, at Bowling on the north bank of the Clyde, just outside Glasgow. It originally supplied ale to the monks of Paisley Abbey. In 1750, the estate in which it stood was bought by Archibald Buchanan. In 1772, Archibald and his

brother George converted it into a distillery and built a house beside the brewery to house the excise officer, as was required by law. The following year a license was granted to “retail ale, beer and excisable liquors.” In other words, it was a commercial operation from the start – and one of the earliest licensed distilleries in Scotland.

Archibald’s father, George Buchanan, was an eminent businessman in Glasgow – a sugar and tobacco merchant and Visitor of the Guild of Maltmen – as was his son George, Archibald’s brother. The family owned estates in Virginia, but after the American Declaration of Independence in 1776, these were seized by the State.

The distillery passed through several owners including Matthew Clark & Co., a wine and spirits broker in London, which appointed one of the first female licensed

distillers in Scotland, Jane MacGregor, in 1823.

In 1932 Littlemill was bought by an American entrepreneur and chemist, Duncan Thomas, who installed two hybrid stills with dumpy rectifying columns rather than swan necks. Within the columns were a number of perforated copper plates which could be adjusted to allow three distinct styles of spirit to be produced: light, full-bodied and heavily peated. In 1966, in partnership with an American company, Thomas built Loch Lomond Distillery at nearby Alexandria and installed similar hybrid stills there.

Littlemill closed forever in 1994, and the last of the distillery buildings were destroyed by a fire in 2004.

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

New Releases

Glenfiddich Grande Couronne 70cl 26 Year Old Speyside Single Malt

43.8% VOL £450

Full gold in hue, with amber lights. A fugitive scent of rose water on the nose, soon dissolving into pâtisserie, vanilla sponge and tarte tatin, and later a note of fruit loaf (with sultanas).

The taste is sweet – macarons – with a velvet texture and a long finish. The overall impression is delicate, but vibrant.

“Rose water on the nose, soon dissolving into pâtisserie, vanilla sponge and tarte tatin…

Why give a French name to a Scottish single malt?

‘Couronne’ means ‘crown’, as in ‘coronet’ – and the promotional materials for this luxurious whisky are sprinkled with words like ‘majestic’, ‘opulent’ and ‘crowning glory’. The reason is that the 26-year-old malt has been finished for at least two years in “rare and meticulously selected French Cognac casks.”

It is the epitome of ‘special occasion’ whisky, or, as the promotional blurb puts it, “the most majestic and meaningful of gatherings.” Brian Kinsman, Glenfiddich’s malt master, recommends that this whisky be enjoyed straight in a brandy balloon, accompanied by a vanilla macaron – the sweet flavour of which will complement the subtle Cognac notes in the spirit.

Glenfiddich Grande Couronne is presented in a gorgeous box decorated with gold filigree which opens to reveal a baroque courtly dance scene.

For me, it also celebrates the Auld Alliance between Scotland and France, signed in 1295 by John Balliol, King of Scots, and Philippe IV (‘Le Bel’) of France who shared an interest in curbing England’s aggressive expansionist policies. It was primarily a military and diplomatic alliance: warlike and impoverished Scots could – and many did – find employment as mercenaries in France’s armies.

But the Alliance also offered the enduring benefit of creating a ready trade in French wine and whisky between the two countries.

The military aspects of the Auld Alliance were removed by the Treaty of Edinburgh in 1560, but the commercial aspects remained, as did the implication in the treaty that Scots and French should have dual nationality. Research done at the University of Manchester in 2011 concluded that this aspect of the Auld Alliance had never been formally revoked.

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Glen Scotia 10 Year Old Bordeaux Red Wine Finish Campbeltown Malts Festival 2021

“Fruity top notes (peach and raspberry), backed by a suggestion of sweet Virginia tobacco, on a lightly maritime base.

70cl 56.1% VOL 10 Year Old £49.95 Campbeltown Single Malt Peach blush in colour. Good beading. A mellow nose-feel, with fruity top notes (peach and raspberry), backed by a suggestion of sweet Virginia tobacco, on a lightly maritime base. Water introduces a hint of orange cream chocolate. An unctuous texture and a sweet, fruity taste – slightly salty – with kitchen spice in the long, warming but slightly mouth-cooling finish.

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Of course, the Campbeltown Malts Festival, which was due to take place on 25th and 26th May, was cancelled on account of the coronavirus plague, but that hasn’t prevented Glen Scotia releasing a limited edition. This year it is a Bordeaux cask finish.

The unpeated spirit has been matured in first-fill ex-bourbon barrels for nine and a half years then re-racked into fresh red wine barriques from the Medoc region for five months, under the close supervision of Michael Henry, Loch Lomond Group’s master blender who is ultimately responsible for all the Glen Scotia expressions.

This is the first time a festival bottling has been unpeated. I am not usually a fan of wine-finished malts, but this one is

sensational. Indeed, the generous bottle sent to me by the distillery was demolished in an hour with friends!

Michael writes of the wine casks “bringing wonderful red fruits to the [finished whisky]. Red berries with floral notes of rose and violet with heather honey and maritime breeze on the nose. The palate opens on a honeyed sweetness with vibrant strawberry and apple, lime citrus and toasted oak vanilla. A wonderfully long finish with warming spice of cinnamon and aniseed.” Hear! Hear!

As readers will know, Campbeltown was once the whisky capital of Scotland: between 1823 – when the Excise Act made it desirable for illicit distillers to take out licenses – and 1835, 28 distilleries

were commissioned. By 1930 only three distilleries remained – Glen Scotia (then named simply ‘Scotia’), Springbank and Riechlachan, with the last closing in 1934.

Having passed through several ownerships, Glen Scotia was mothballed in 1994, then operated for only a couple of months a year, until it was bought by Loch Lomond Distillers Ltd. in 1999 before passing to the current owners, the Loch Lomond Group, in 2014. The company has invested heavily in restoring and upgrading.

Distillery Manager Iain McAlister and his team have brought about a renaissance at Glen Scotia, both physical and – dare I say – spiritual in regard to recent single malt releases, of which this is an outstanding example.

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

New Releases

Benriach Smoke Season 70cl — Speyside Single Malt

52.8% VOL £53

Tawny in colour; very good beading. A mellow nose with considerable initial prickle.

Elegant smoke is immediately apparent (smouldering peat with dried thyme), soon becoming mentholic and nosecooling (aromatherapy oil).

A little water suppresses the smokiness. A smooth texture, a sweet taste and a smoky finish, with some spice.

“Smouldering peat with dried thyme, soon becoming mentholic…

It may surprise some readers to learn that the whiskies of Speyside were once made from peated malt.

Nineteenth and early twentieth century sources are unanimous in stating that peat was the universal fuel used to dry green malt in the Highlands, including Speyside.

Indeed, Alfred Barnard’s detailed analysis of distilleries in the late 1880s mentions only two Speyside distilleries which mix peat with coke (known, charmingly, as ‘silent coal’) – Glen Grant and Strathisla, the latter using ‘chiefly peat’. It was commonly believed that the use of peat in kilning played a crucial role in the character of Highland malt whisky.

Notwithstanding this widespread use of peat, organoleptic assessment of whiskies made pre-1945 indicates low phenol levels, although such whiskies are generally smokier than their contemporary equivalents. This was achieved by drying the ‘green malt’ over a hot fire.

Since peat smoke is absorbed only during the early stages of kilning, when the green malt is still damp, drying at high temperatures from the outset will both reduce the quantity of smoke and limit the phenolic uptake.

It was further facilitated by the invention of the ‘Doig Ventilator’ (the now familiar pagoda-shaped roof to the kiln) by Charles Cree Doig, first installed at Dailuaine Distillery in 1889 and subsequently adopted universally by malt distilleries, which greatly assisted the control of the draft through the bed of green malt by the use of adjustable louvres, making it possible to expel peat smoke rapidly, if desired.

Benriach Distillery was designed

by Charles Doig and opened in 1897.

In common with other malt distilleries, it had its own floor maltings. Unlike most other distilleries – which by the 1970s were buying in malt from centralised maltings – these operated until 1999, supplying malt to Longmorn Distillery nearby. From 1983, Benriach annually produced a quantity of peated malt for its own use, and this ‘smoke season’ was reintroduced when the floor maltings were reopened in 2013.

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Laphroaig 10 Year Old Sherry Oak Finish 70cl 10 Year Old Islay Single Malt

48% VOL £65

Deep glowing amber, with surprisingly good beading. The aroma is full-on Laphroaig – coal smoke and creosote, backed by hessian sacks; dry overall, and after a while a suggestion of dried figs and crystalised angelica emerge.

A little water adds hard toffee. A smooth texture and an overall smoky taste, with maritime undertones and tarred rope in the aftertaste. More salty with water. A long, smoky finish.

“Coal smoke and creosote, backed by hessian sacks… with maritime undertones and tarred rope in the aftertaste.

This new addition to Laphroaig’s core range was introduced earlier this summer. It is a splendid addition to the iconic 10-yearold expression, having been matured in a mix of refill ex-oloroso sherry casks and refill American oak ex-bourbon casks, then finished for between 12 and 18 months in first-fill European oak ex-oloroso casks. It is bottled at a generous 48% VOL. John Campbell, the distillery’s manager since 2006, was born and raised on Islay and joined Laphroaig in November 1994, working in the warehouses. He told The Spirits Business: “We are so excited to announce the release of this unique and premium expression, taking our iconic Laphroaig 10 Years Old and finishing it with the sweet flavours of oloroso sherry casks…

This is a perfect accompaniment to any whisky collection and a celebrated addition to the Laphroaig range.”

The brand prides itself on being contentious: like Marmite, you either love it or hate it – no compromise! A recent slogan was: “We don’t make friends easily, but when we do, they’re for life.”

Last November, the brand’s owner, Edrington-Beam Suntory, launched a short film on social media titled ‘You’ll Always Remember Your First Laphroaig’ and featuring the reaction of members of the public to their first taste. Nick Ganich, head of brands at Edrington-Beam Suntory UK, remarked: “The idea that Laphroaig isn’t for everyone is what makes it such an iconic and inclusive brand. You may love or indeed

dislike the taste, but what is certain is that drinking Laphroaig is a deeply personal experience that elicits great emotion and often debate amongst our customers and consumers.”

I have to say, this expression is a magnificent example of the make – and I loved it!

It is said that Laphroaig whisky was permitted by the US Government to be sold as medicine during Prohibition (1920-33) on account of its ‘pungent, iodine-like’ nose. What is certain is that the brand was trademarked in the US in 1934 and vigorously promoted there by its owner, Ian Hunter.

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

New Releases

First Editions Blair Athol 8 Year Old 2012

Old Malt Cask Blair Athol 16 Year Old

70cl 8 Year Old Highland Single Malt

70cl 16 Year Old Highland Single Malt

46% VOL £67

Bright amber with a rose tint.

A mellow nose-feel, lightly nose-drying. The top notes are of creamy caramel, even crème caramel, supported by dried fruits (dates and figs) and, after a while, flowering currant on a base of tobacco leaf. A smooth texture and a sweet taste, drying to a faintly meaty finish and aftertaste.

Although it is located in Pitlochry, Blair Athol Distillery has a charming rural atmosphere, with low stone buildings, some of them thickly clad with Virginia creeper. There have been small stills in the district since at least the seventeenth century – tradition has it that “the mellow barley bree from the cavern of Ben Vrackie warmed the hearts and strengthened the arms of the Highlanders” when they defeated a Government army at the Battle of Killicrankie, twelve miles to the south, in 1689. Ben Vrackie, ‘the Speckled Hill’, rises above the distillery and springs near its summit supply water to the distillery via the Allt Dour burn.

Following the defeat of another Highland army, at the Battle of Culloden in 1746, George Robertson of Fascally hid

50% VOL £113

Old gold/pale amber; good beading, good legs.

A mellow, rounded nose-feel, with some initial prickle.

The top notes are savoury and faintly herbal, backed by butterscotch and a suggestion of dry fruitcake. Water raises desiccated coconut. A sweet taste with a trace of coconut in centre palate and a spicy finish. Coconut returns in the aftertaste.

from Government soldiers in a large oak tree that stood near the site of the present distillery and was revived by the whisky made at Aldour Farm. In 1798 the owner of the farm, Robert Robertson – a descendant of Fascally – took out a licence to distil, and in 1825 his son rebuilt and expanded the distillery and changed its name to Blair Athol.

As early as 1867, Arthur Bell, a whisky blender in Perth, reported to a customer that the best whiskies he bought in were from “Glenlivet, Pitlochry and Stirlingshire districts” and he was certainly buying malt from Blair Athol. In 1933 his sons bought the company which owned it and Dufftown Distillery, and with this acquisition Arthur Bell & Sons moved from being a small local blender to a medium-sized distiller.

Blair Athol became a key filling for Bell’s blended Scotch and was not released as a single malt until 1972.

Both these expressions come from the family-owned company Hunter Laing, an independent bottler in Glasgow.

The first is part of the company's First Editions series of easy drinking younger malts and has been finished in a red wine cask; the second under the distinguished Old Malt Cask label.

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“Savoury and faintly herbal, backed by butterscotch and a suggestion of dry fruitcake.

“Creamy caramel… supported by dried fruits (dates and figs)… on a base of tobacco leaf.

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

New Releases

Old Malt Cask Caol Ila 10 Year Old 70cl 10 Year Old Islay Single Malt

50% VOL £120

Pale gold in colour; chenin blanc wine. The top notes are strongly medicinal – carbolic, Elastoplast, Germoline – with a whiff of salt breeze and seaweed and a suggestion of distant bonfire. A sweet and salty taste, with a mediumlength finish and an aftertaste of spicy smoked ham. Classic Caol Ila.

“Strongly medicinal – carbolic, Elastoplast, Germoline – with a whiff of salt breeze and seaweed…

Caol Ila Distillery takes its name from the fast-flowing tidal ‘kyle’ or narrows between Islay and Jura which it overlooks. Indeed, the view from the still house is among the best of any distillery, having huge windows on the seaward side. This was the idea of Dr. Charlie Potts, Scottish Malt Distiller’s chief engineer in the 1960s. S.M.D. was the production division of the Distillers Company Limited and the design was applied to eleven of the company's distilleries between 1962 and 1974. As well as a glass-fronted still house – with windows which could open, greatly improving the working environment – the distillery design made good use of gravity in the layout of the mash house and tun room, thus saving unnecessary pumps.

Finished in 1974, Caol Ila was the last of the eleven distilleries to be built; the others were Balmenach, Clynelish, Craigellachie, Glendullan, Glen Ord, Glentauchers, Linkwood, Mannochmore, Royal Brackla and Teaninich. Some were built alongside existing buildings; in Caol Ila’s case the original distillery, built in 1846, was demolished, leaving only the warehousing.

The founder was Hector Henderson, who had previously held the tenancy of the Campbeltown and Union Distilleries (both in Campbeltown) and subsequently owned Littlemill Distillery at Bowling, Dunbartonshire. In 1863 Caol Ila was bought by the Glasgow blending firm, Bulloch Lade & Co, which built a pier capable of withstanding the twelvefoot tide-fall and the strong currents of the Sound of Islay, allowing puffers to land coal and barley and uplift casks of whisky.

Following recent expansion in 2011/12, Caol Ila’s capacity was increased to 6.5 million litres of pure alcohol per annum. All but a tiny amount goes for blending, although some was bottled for Diageo's Rare Malts series after 1997, and regularly since 2002.

This limited edition single cask expression is part of Hunter Laing’s Old Malt Cask series and is limited to just 113 bottles.

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Old Malt Cask Jura 13 Year Old 70cl 13 Year Old Island Single Malt

50% VOL £102

Late summer sunset, very good beading, oily legs. A mellow nose, rich and thick; the top note is of light olive oil, developing into gorse flowers and coconut, with a trace of buttery corn on the cob.

An unctuous mouthfeel and a savoury taste overall, with a light saltiness and a medium length, warming finish.

Drinks well straight.

“Light olive oil, developing into gorse flowers and coconut, with a trace of buttery corn on the cob.

The Old Malt Cask range was introduced by Douglas Laing & Company in 1999 to feature some of the more exceptional malts from the company’s huge inventory. When the brothers Stuart and Fred Laing parted company in 2013, the brand followed Stuart and his two sons to Hunter Laing Ltd., and they are responsible for selecting this cask of Jura. As with other releases under the Old Malt Cask label, it is bottled at 50% VOL, without chill-filtration or colour adjustment.

Although there had been a distillery at Craighouse, Jura, in the nineteenth century, it closed in 1901 and the present distillery was established in 1963 by two landowners on the island, Tony RileySmith (uncle of the owner of Whisky Magazine) and Robin Fletcher, with support from Scottish & Newcastle Breweries, via its subsidiary, Mackinlay Macpherson & Company.

They appointed the leading distillery architect of the day, William Delme Evans, who wrote: “It was our intention to produce a Highland-type malt, different from the typically peaty stuff last produced in 1900.” Accordingly, he specified unusually tall stills – at 7.7 metres, the second tallest in Scotland – designed to increase reflux and contact between the alcohol vapour and the copper walls of the stills, therefore producing a light style of spirit. The first Isle of Jura single malt was released in 1974.

The distillery was acquired by Invergordon Distillers when it bought Charles Mackinlay & Company in 1985, then by Whyte & Mackay when the latter bought Invergordon. Under the guidance of Whyte & Mackay's legendary master blender Richard Paterson, the wood policy at Jura has been greatly improved and since 2002 there have been many more official bottlings.

This single cask expression is a limited edition of just 183 bottles.

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

New Releases

First Editions Glenburgie 13 Year Old 2007 70cl 13 Year Old Speyside Single Malt

46% VOL £87

A delicate peach blush and a mild nose-feel. The top notes are both fruity and floury – an open apple tart with shortcrust pastry – with a whisper of oaky chardonnay at the base and a suggestion of white chocolate at reduced strength. A smooth texture and a sweet taste to start, with vinous acidity in mid-palate and a shake of white pepper in the finish.

“Fruity and floury – an open apple tart with shortcrust pastry – with a whisper of oaky chardonnay at the base…

Glenburgie Distillery was licensed in 1829, named Kilnflat until the founder sub-let to one Charles Hay in 1878 and he renamed it. Like many other distilleries it went through periods of expansion and closure until in 1930 the giant Canadian distiller, Hiram Walker-Gooderham & Worts, took a controlling interest in the operation, becoming whole owner in 1936, in which year it also bought Miltonduff Distillery. Hiram Walker had acquired George Ballantine & Son the year before, and ever since these two distilleries have supplied the heart malts for the Ballantine’s blends – which is why Glenburgie is rarely bottled by its owner.

Ballantine’s had been bought by James Barclay and R.A. McKinlay in 1919 and during Prohibition (19201933), Barclay worked tirelessly, and not without danger, to distribute Ballantine’s in the USA. By the time of repeal he had the best network on the East Coast. The actor, David Niven, was an early – and brief – salesman for the company. The success of the brand demanded far greater resources, of secure filling whiskies as well as cash, and these were provided by one of Jimmy Barclay’s contacts in North America, Harry Hatch, president of Hiram Walker, who was keen to enter the Scotch whisky trade.

In 1987 Allied Lyons bought Ballantine’s and its associated distilleries, and in 2005 the company passed it to Pernod Ricard and its operating division, Chivas Bros.

The year before this took place, Glenburgie Distillery was demolished and rebuilt on an adjacent site, a large modern building with a gallery in the roof which affords terrific views of the Laich o’Moray and the Moray Firth.

Far below, isolated in a car park, is a small stone cottage about 80 feet by 30, with an outside stair leading to a single room and a low-ceilinged cellar below. Astonishingly, this was the original distillery of 1829. It has now been tastefully restored as a nosing room.

Another single cask from independent bottler Hunter Laing, just 196 bottles of this expression exist.

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Heroes and Heretics Stateside 8 Year Old George Dickel The Whisky Shop Exclusive 70cl 8 Year Old Tennessee Whiskey

51% VOL £100

The colour of Golden Syrup; fresh American oak barrels; very good legs. A deep nose for its age, with considerable prickle. The top notes are briefly of juicy fruit salad, soon overtaken by fresh oak shavings, on an earthy base, with a wisp of charcoal. A mouth-filling, creamy texture and a sweetish taste, with orange peel in mid-palate before a spicy oaky finish and aftertaste.

The eponymous George Dickel (18181894), a German immigrant, was an established merchant in Nashville who sold his own brand of whisky – unusually, he spelled it in the Scots manner, without an ‘e’– which, according to tradition, had a reputation for being “the smoothest and most mellow whisky in the county.”

When Cascade Distillery opened in 1878, in neighbouring Coffee County, Dickel bought a large share in the enterprise. His descendants later bought the distillery and expanded it – by 1904 it was the largest in Tennessee.

George Dickel preferred spirit which had been distilled during the winter months,

“Juicy fruit salad… overtaken by fresh oak shavings, on an earthy base, with a wisp of charcoal.

believing it to be smoother, and advertised it under the charming slogan ‘Mellow as Moonlight’. Interestingly, in days gone by many workers in Scottish distilleries preferred spirit made during the winter, describing it as more viscous. This was no doubt on account of the water in the external worm tubs being colder during the winter months, so affording the alcohol vapour less time to interact with the copper worms to become purer and lighter.

In Dickel’s case, the spirit is chilled before being subjected to charcoal mellowing by the ‘Lincoln County Process’, the spirit being filtered through a minimum of ten feet of sugar maple charcoal for

between a week and ten days. This process distinguishes Tennessee whiskeys from bourbons and other American whiskeys.

George was succeeded by his wife and brother-in-law, Victor Schwab, and Cascade Whisky prospered. Then in 1910 Tennessee introduced Prohibition, and although Cascade was permitted to be sold as a medicine, production was moved to the Stitzel Distillery in Louisville, Kentucky, complete with charcoal mellowing. In 1958 a new distillery was opened in Cascade Hollow, and its make was named Geo.A.Dickel Tennessee Whisky. This expression comes from the independent bottler Heroes and Heretics.

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

News

Whisky business

Distilling on Barra Plans are underway for a £5 million whisky and gin distillery on the Isle of Barra that will create around 30 new jobs for the island community. The new distillery will be home to Isle of Barra Distillers which has been making gin on the island since 2016.

Designed by the same architects behind Lagg Distillery on the Isle of Arran, the distillery will be built from sustainable materials and powered by renewable energy, with the aim of producing a minimum of 100,000 litres of alcohol and filling 800 casks a year.

Founders Michael and Katie Morrison say Isle of Barra single malt will have the island at its core, “distilled on the edge of the Atlantic and matured with the salt in the air.”

Recruited to make the magic happen is Alan Winchester who, with 43 years of experience in the industry including 12 years at Glenlivet, will join as the distillery's master distiller.

The future is green Nearly £9 million of Government funding has been secured to help some of Scotland’s most famous distilleries go green – cutting carbon emissions and creating sustainable jobs.

From Edinburgh to Orkney, 12 distilleries across Scotland can now bid for further grants, having already received funding from a pot of more than £1 million to kickstart green innovation projects.

Projects that have already received funding include Islay-based Bruichladdich Distillery developing a boiler system that emits no greenhouse gases or pollutants and Orkney’s Highland Park Distillery using stored energy from green renewable sources that can be converted into heat on demand.

The next round of funding will help more distilleries to decarbonise their production processes, which typically rely on fossil fuels, and is part of the Government’s ‘build back greener’ pledge, working towards the goal of eliminating the UK’s contribution to climate change by 2050.

Whisky gone wild Talisker has released the first whisky in its Xpedition Oak series: a collection of some of the oldest whisky ever released from the Isle of Skye distillery.

Talisker Xpedition Oak 43 Year Old was matured for over four decades in American oak hogsheads.

It was then uniquely finished in casks made of staves that traversed the Atlantic Ocean on an epic 3,264mile journey by British adventurer James Aiken, with each bottle accompanied by a piece of one of these very staves.

Diageo's global brand ambassador, Ewan Gunn, describes the whisky as “a sublime single malt that captures the pinnacle of the key aromas of Talisker – spice, sweetness, waxy and creamy, with a sense of the sea spray the morning after the storm.

“The four decades of maturation have given a full flavour, yet a softness to this bold dram resulting in a rounded and elegant experience.”

See it for yourself: Talisker Xpedition Oak 43 Year Old features in the window of our Piccadilly boutique throughout May.

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A star is born How about a world class meal with your next dram?

Michelin-starred chef Mark Donald is joining The Glenturret Distillery to open the first fine-dining restaurant at a whisky distillery.

The Glenturret was bought in 2019 by Swiss entrepreneur Hansjörg Wyss and Lalique Group's Silvio Denz. Its new restaurant joins Lalique’s portfolio of impressive culinary establishments, including Villa René Lalique, the two-star Michelin restaurant and hotel in Alsace, and the one-star Michelin restaurant and hotel at Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey in Bordeaux.

Hailing from Glasgow, Mark Donald has spent time in the kitchens of some of the world’s best restaurants (Noma in Copenhagen, Andrew Fairlie at The Gleneagles Hotel, Hibiscus in London and Bentley in Sydney) before returning to Scotland in 2018 to take over the kitchen at Edinburgh’s The Balmoral, retaining its Michelin star.

"The distillery has a long history and great heritage – as does Lalique – so it was an exciting task to combine this with fresh, innovative ideas,” says Donald of the new venture.

“Working closely with the local producers and suppliers has been wonderful so far; together with my team, I feel we have managed to create a contemporary, thought-provoking menu wrapped in the genuine Scottish hospitality for which The Glenturret is renowned.”

The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant is due to launch early this summer.

Whiskeria winner Readers may remember this fantastic Trump illustration that featured in last year’s summer issue.

We’re delighted to announce that Whiskeria illustrator Julia Kerschbaumer has been selected as an American Illustration 40 Chosen Winner for her work, which accompanied Brian Wilson’s article on Donald Trump's self-defeating trade sanctions on Scotch whisky.

Trade truce Trump’s tariffs have been lifted! Temporarily, at least.

The whisky industry had reason to rejoice earlier in spring when the US agreed to suspend tariffs on UK goods, including single malt whiskies, that were imposed in retaliation over subsidies to the aircraft maker Airbus. The duties are suspended for four months while the two sides sort out a longterm settlement.

The tariffs were imposed by the Trump administration in 2019, and the move was the latest twist in a decades-old trade row. Alongside the coronavirus pandemic, the tariffs were largely responsible for a 23% dip in UK whisky exports last year, amounting to a staggering £1.1 billion drop in sales.

With duties also temporarily lifted on UK cheese, cashmere and machinery, Boris Johnson has described the trade truce as a great boost for British business.

"From Scotch whisky distillers to Stilton makers, the US decision to suspend tariffs on some UK exports will benefit businesses right across the UK," he tweeted.

"Fantastic news as we strengthen the UK-US trading relationship and work to build back better from the pandemic."

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

The W Club

Sugar, spice and everything nice Love ’em or loathe ’em, The W Club’s Natalie McLaughlin takes a closer look at the sherry bomb phenomenon that has exploded onto the whisky scene.

IL LU STR ATION: K ATIE SM ITH

If you’re new to whisky, the term ‘sherry bomb’ might sound threatening. Fortunately, the reality is much more delicious than it is dangerous! It’s not known who officially coined the term, but in the whisky world, the definition of a sherry bomb whisky is widely accepted as a whisky that has been treated to a full maturation – as opposed to a finish – in sherry casks. The resulting liquid is often rich in both colour and flavour, imbued with pleasing deep red hues and a full-bodied, fruity character. If you’ve ever tried a dram of Aberlour A’bunadh, GlenDronach 15 Year Old, Dalmore 15 Year Old, or anything described as ‘liquid Christmas cake,’ then you can be sure that you’ve experienced a sherry bomb.

WHAT IS SHERRY?

Sherry is one of the world’s oldest wines; more specifically, it is a Spanish fortified wine made in the ‘Sherry Triangle’ – the wine region of southwest Spain bounded by Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and Puerto de Santamaría. By law, the grapes must be grown in the Jerez region of southern Spain and the liquid itself should be aged there too. Otherwise, it isn’t sherry!

A MATCH MADE IN HEAVEN

So, where did the sherry and Scotch alliance begin? The story goes all the way back to

The Eighty-Year War (1568-1648) when Anglo-Spanish relations grew sour, and consequently, Britain’s sherry stocks fell to an all-time low. It was only when Sir Francis Drake sieged the port of Cádiz in 1587 and returned to Britain with 2,900 wine barrels that the country’s sherry drought came to a triumphant end. A sherry sensation swept the nation and it became a particularly fashionable drink in Scotland towards the eighteenth century. It was only a matter of time before Scottish whisky makers discovered the advantages of using sherry casks to age Scotch: it made sense to reuse casks rather than spending money on new ones – not to mention that these barrels massively improved the look and taste of their ageing spirit!

An evolution of consumer tastes and trends ultimately led to the sherry cask meeting its demise in 1981, when the Spanish Government demanded that all sherry be bottled in Spain prior to export. This made it harder to ship the casks in good condition; exported dry barrels often arrived tainted and cracked, much to the chagrin of Scottish whisky makers. But many distilleries fought on and continued to use sherry casks, and some of them even saw it coming. The Macallan, an exemplar sherry success story, began to build business relationships with

Jerez cooperages and bodegas as early as the 1950s, paying wine makers to ‘season’ the barrels with sherry before shipping them to Scotland. For The Macallan, it was a perseverance that certainly paid off, with the current demand for sherry cask-matured whiskies showing no signs of slowing.

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If you’ve ever tried a dram of Aberlour A’bunadh, GlenDronach 15 Year Old, Dalmore 15 Year Old, or anything described as ‘liquid Christmas cake,’ then you’ve experienced a sherry bomb.

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

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A sherry sensation swept the nation and it became a particularly fashionable drink in Scotland towards the eighteenth century. It was only a matter of time before Scottish whisky makers discovered the advantages of using sherry casks to age Scotch…

THE BIGGER THE BOMB, THE BETTER THE WHISKY?

A relatively new term, and much like the ‘peat monster’ (another scary-sounding but harmless whisky personification), sherry bomb whiskies have attracted their own devoted following of fans over the years. The Sherrybomb Whisky Appreciation Society on Facebook currently has over 4,500 members, including The GlenDronach Master Blender Dr Rachel Barrie, where malt fans share their, well, appreciation for heavily sherried drams.

Devotees of sherry bomb drams claim that these are the crème de la crème of the whisky world, but as with most whisky trends, there are plenty of critics ready to take the sherry bomb off its pedestal. We took to social media to ask members of The W Club and The Whisky Shop team: is the sherry bomb the be-all and end-all of whisky?

PASS ME BY

The powerful profile of a sherry bomb is a big reason why whisky fans are drawn to them, but critics argue that the weight of the sherry in these drams outstrips any unique distillery character. Daniel on Instagram writes, “I find it possible to get sherry cask fatigue and sometimes struggle to differentiate between sherried whiskies. Unless you have a stand out spirit that shines through the cask, you can get

lost! I tend to alternate and have nights of sherry bombs and then not go back to them for a while.”

One scathing (and anonymous) comment from a member reads, “Sometimes you can encounter a whisky that’s so sherried, it may as well be a sherry that you can pay half the price for!” Ouch. While another member comments, “I think they’re overrated and in some cases muffle or eradicate the distillery spirit DNA the team work so hard to produce.

This argument that 80 per cent of flavour comes from a cask needs to stop – what does it say about your spirit if that’s the case? Fill into the cask whatever you want, and it’ll be fine because it’s a sherry cask? Nonsense.” Double ouch. A more diplomatic response comes from the manager of The Whisky Shop in Manchester, Phil Dwyer, who says there’s nothing wrong with loving sherry bomb whiskies. “Some are undoubtedly the best in their fields,” explains Phil. “But sometimes they’re just too much.”

“Realistically, distillery character plays a huge part. The reason The Macallan, The GlenDronach and Aberlour work so well in sherry goes beyond a barrel that’s very active with colour.

“Finding whiskies with delicate and more subtle influences, especially in older age statements, is a joy. 99 per cent of all casks in Scotland are bourbon and I feel they deserve more time in the spotlight. Not only for doing a lot of the hard graft, but for holding up an industry for such a long time.”

PASS THE BOTTLE

As expected, the response in favour of sherry bombs was nothing short of enthusiastic.

Owen on Instagram writes, “Sherry bombs are 100 per cent the pinnacle of whisky! I always find that sherried drams are more memorable than bourbon-matured, probably down to the richness and depth of the flavour.”

A few notable distilleries, like The GlenDronach, The Macallan, The Dalmore and Aberlour, have production processes that are simply meant to be paired with sherry.

And the world-renowned whiskies they’ve produced have been no half-hearted attempt; more often than not, they’re the result of strong relationships with Jerez cooperages and scrupulous cask selections.

Alternatively, sherry bomb fans suggest that there isn’t a need to take it all so seriously. Claire writes, “I always think of the chefs I know. Yes, they love wonderful food, but they also know a massive bag of doughnuts and a McDonald’s milkshake is just as delicious!”

In other words, there’s room to enjoy heavily sherried whiskies without any guilty sentiment that they might be less refined.

After all, we drink whisky to enjoy it, don’t we?

THE VERDICT

At The W Club, we find it hard to resist indulging in a good sherry bomb. And call us shallow, but sometimes you just can’t beat that deep, rich ruby-red colour on the shelf…

If you’re in agreement, you might be interested in The W Club’s upcoming single cask exclusive, Balblair 2006 #78. Matured for 14 years in an ex-sherry butt, this spectacular single cask is the first release of its kind since Balblair’s rebrand. Cask #78 has yielded just 378 bottles at 55.8% VOL, without chill filtration or added colouring. If you’ve already read Charlie MacLean’s review of this delicious stuff earlier in the magazine, you will know he is a fan. “Deep amber, with excellent beading,” enthuses Charlie, describing notes of baked pear, tarte tatin and sticky fruit loaf.

Pass the bottle…

To get your hands on this Balblair sherry bomb and other exclusive single casks, join The W Club for just £30 a year at whiskyshop.com/club.

Knowledge Bar A world of sherry

Fino and Manzanilla Fino and manzanilla are both delicate sherries: light wines with notes of herbs, almond and chalk. The only difference between them is that the bodegas differ in location. Manzanilla is only made near Sanlúcar de Barrameda, which is a port, adding a touch more sea salt to the resulting flavour.

Amontillado Think of amontillado as being the sweet spot between fino and oloroso sherry.

Amber in colour, this sherry is naturally dry, with a subtle nuttiness.

Oloroso Deep mahogany in colour, oloroso is intensely nutty and full-bodied with notes of balsamic vinegar and leather. Ex-oloroso casks are often the sherry casks of choice by whisky makers.

Moscatel Moscatel is a dessert wine, favoured for its honeyed and floral flavour. It’s a perfect sherry for those with a sweet tooth.

Pedro Ximénez In terms of flavour and colour, this stuff is off the Richter scale. Pedro Ximénez is a dessert wine where the grapes are sun-dried to produce more sugars. This creates sweeter flavours like treacle, figs, blackberry jam and Christmas cake.

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

Auctions

Festival season Whisky festivals are once again going virtual, and while we long to get back to the hustle and bustle of our favourite events, this year we’re turning to the secondary market to pick up some wonderful whiskies of festivals gone by to enjoy at home. Our auctions expert, Christoffer Hällström, gives us the low-down on the festival bottles he’s looking to bag this summer.

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Knowledge Bar

Festival season

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Speyside

S C OT L A ND

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Isle of Islay

Campbeltown

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Spirit of Speyside Fèis Ìle Campbeltown Malts Festival

Back in the days of attending Spirit of Speyside in person, 2019 saw Mortlach SPIRIT OF SPEYSIDE Distillery release its second festival exclusive and first ever hand-filled bottling.

Where? Speyside, Moray Whisky lovers at the festival were given When? First weekend in May the opportunity to fill their own bottle of Established: 1999 Mortlach 1999 19 Year Old Cask #8564 at No. of distilleries: Approx. 50 the distillery’s warehouse in Dufftown. Single ———————————————————————— cask expressions from Mortlach are rarely First launched in 1999, Spirit of Speyside has seen, and just over 500 bottles were filled evolved into one of the largest whisky events from the sherry butt in question, making this in the world – an appropriate celebration of a real treasure to find at auction.

Scotland’s largest whisky producing region.

Each year, thousands of whisky lovers flock to Speyside to discover the people and processes FÈIS ÌLE behind the region’s 50-plus distilleries, packing in as much as they can from the Where? Isle of Islay festival’s programme of over 700 events.

When? Last week in May It’s not often you come across cask Established: 1986 strength Glenfiddich, let alone cask strength No. of distilleries: 8 Glenfiddich aged in first-fill sherry. This was ———————————————————————— the case at 2015’s Spirit of Speyside festival, Founded by local residents to celebrate with the distillery’s release of Glenfiddich 1995 20 Year Old, bottled at 57.8% VOL. With the culture and heritage of the magical Isle of Islay, Fèis Ìle has since evolved into an only 250 bottles out there in the wild, finding internationally-renowned whisky and music this at auction is a unique opportunity to festival that encompasses traditional music, try Glenfiddich in its purest form. Since this ceilidhs, Gaelic lessons, guided walks and, of release six years ago, Glenfiddich has upped course, whisky tastings – with each distillery its game by releasing two festival exclusives on the island hosting its own open day. each year (rejoice!) and last year donated all Released in 2003, Bunnahabhain 1963 of its festival bottles to a charity auction that 40 Year Old was one of the festival’s first raised £240,000 for local Speyside causes.

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

Knowledge Bar Auctions made easy Looking to buy or sell whisky at auction? With our network of shops across the UK and France, we have 22 convenient locations to drop off bottles and pick up winning lots, taking the stress out of posting and packaging your prized drams.

Those who prefer to post their bottles to us can do so by sending them to either our UK or European hub, or UK customers can make use of our home collection service that picks up bottles directly from your doorstep.

Whether you’re buying or selling, head to whiskyshop.com/auctions to start your journey!

ever exclusive bottlings. The whisky was matured for four decades in sherry hogsheads – the final seven hogsheads from 1963 – and resulted in 743 bottles at a cask strength of 46.3% VOL. It is a dram very rarely seen on the secondary market.

Over the next decade the Islay festival grew and grew, and soon every distillery on the island began to get involved. In 2014, Ardbeg released a festival bottling that also paid tribute to the FIFA World Cup taking place that summer in Brazil. Ardbeg Auriverdes was named after the signature colours of the Ardbeg bottle – which happen to match those of the Brazilian flag – and was released in two versions: a gold bottle and a green bottle. Seriously limited (there’s a rumour that just 99 exist), the gold bottle was sent to journalists and bloggers, and is a rare gem to stumble across at auction.

Speaking of whisky gold, each year at Fèis Ìle dedicated fans queue for hours (sometimes all night) to get their hands on Bowmore’s legendary festival release, with selected bottles including a golden ticket to an even more exclusive single cask expression. This sought-after single cask always has an age statement of over 20 years and the 2011 bottling was no different, with the release of a Bowmore 1983. Aged in a sherry hogshead, just 100 bottles were filled, making this dram a collector’s dream.

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tasting, attendees were thrilled to get their hands on liquid from the silent stills of CAMPBELTOWN MALTS FESTIVAL Littlemill that you don’t often see being released. This expression is now only Where? Campbeltown, Argyll and Bute available to track down at auction.

When? Last weekend in May Fast forward to 2020 and the Established: 2009 Campbeltown Malts Festival looked No. of distilleries: 3 somewhat different. Although last year’s ———————————————————————— festivities happened virtually, the exclusive Once dubbed ‘Whiskyopolis’, Campbeltown bottlings kept flowing and Springbank led was the world’s capital of whisky in the the charge with a 26-year-old single cask, late 1800s due to the 30-plus distilleries made available during the distillery’s online that populated the town. Whisky remains open day. Aged in a refill bourbon hogshead the main attraction there, with the annual and bottled at a cask strength of 51.1% VOL, Campbeltown Malts Festival celebrating the Springbank 1993 Virtual Open Day 26 last three distilleries standing: Glengyle, Glen Year Old is the oldest festival exclusive Scotia and Springbank. the distillery has released to date, previously Glen Scotia released its first festival releasing a 25-year-old, and three consecutive exclusive single cask in 2016. Glen Scotia 21-year-olds before that. Let’s hope 2001 Festival Bottling 2016 was distilled in the trend continues!

May 2001 and bottled on 18th May 2016. The limited edition 15-year-old was well-received by festival revellers and Glen Scotia has never looked back. The distillery continues to release an outstanding exclusive each year and the festival schedule now dedicates a full day of events to Glen Scotia.

2017 was a big year for the oldest independent bottler in the UK, Cadenhead’s, who celebrated its 175th anniversary at Campbeltown Malts Festival that year. The festival dedicated a day of celebrations to Cadenhead’s and the bottler pulled out all the stops with the release of a hand-filled Littlemill 1991 Cadenhead’s 26 Year Old. Launched as a surprise during a Cadenhead’s

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

A Time in History

Three sheets to the wind Named after the legendary tea clipper, Cutty Sark, Brian Wilson delves into the story behind one of the world’s most recognizable whiskies.

IL LU STR ATION: K ATIE SM ITH

Supposing you don’t believe or agree with another word in the paper, it has long been worth reading The Daily Telegraph for the obituaries; rich in detail and exotic in choice of characters. In The Daily Telegraph’s world, nobody seems to expire below the age of 90.

A recent obituary which caught my eye was about John Rudd, sub-titled “leading wine merchant and driving force behind the worldwide success of Cutty Sark whisky.” Sure enough, the subject had made it to the ripe old age of 94 years, 72 of them spent as an eponymous part of Berry Brothers & Rudd, of St. James’s Street in London.

“As managing director from 1966,” vouchsafed the Telegraph, “Rudd travelled the world with his wife Margaret, building partnerships that enabled Cutty Sark to reach more than 100 countries – and generating profits that enabled Berry Brothers & Rudd to extend its property footprint in St. James’s.” Through all this, he was “formally mannered, impeccably tailored” and possessed of “a high sense of business integrity.”

Apart from giving the impression of a fine chap with a very nice lifestyle, this account of John Rudd’s life led me into my own voyage of discovery about Cutty Sark – surely one of the great marketing jobs of the twentieth century.

Even in an industry which has always been characterised by strong brand images, none

has held more lasting appeal than the Cutty Sark name, label and product.

The origins of that formula came together round a table at 3 St. James’s Street one March day in 1923. Berry Brothers & Rudd were wine people with a pedigree stretching back to the seventeenth century and a clientele to match this prime location; just up the road from royal palaces, down the street from the Ritz and generally in the midst of wealthy London society, for whom Cognac had been the long-established spirit of choice. That had begun to change after the Cognac industry was devastated by the French grape blight of phyloxera in the 1860s. As stocks declined, the transition to whisky as a pre-dinner apéritif gathered pace. However, the wine drinkers’ palate did not favour anything too heavy or peaty, as the Berry business kept being told by their clients. Just as they liked Cognacs light in colour and flavour, so they wanted their whisky.

Berry Brothers & Rudd already had a sideline in blended whisky and indeed their St. James blend is still owned by them today. However, the new mission required a new blend, name and image. That was the challenge facing Walter and Francis Berry, their recently acquired partner Hugh Rudd, a Norfolk wine merchant, and the fourth man – James McBey – when they gathered in the

parlour of 3 St. James’s Street. James McBey may need introduction to a whisky audience but not to connoisseurs of early twentieth century Scottish art. Born at Newburgh in Aberdeenshire, McBey broke free of early employment in a bank to become prominent in the revival of etching in Britain as well as a renowned painter in watercolours. During the First World War, he was posted to join the British Expeditionary Force in Egypt

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The image of the sailing ship, Cutty Sark, against a yellow background on green glass became one of the most recognizable whisky bottles in the world.

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A Time in History

Inside Berry Brothers & Rudd at 3 St. James’s Street in London, where Cutty Sark’s name was penned and iconic label mapped out in 1923.

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While the owners of Cutty Sark may have been gentlemen in London, they soon proved to be masters of finding partners in the bootlegging trade…

Cutty Sark became the favoured whisky of Prohibition-era America.

with licence to portray what he saw.

His oil painting of Lawrence of Arabia and 300 more watercolours from his time in the army continue to be exhibited in the Imperial War Museum.

On returning to London, McBey was much in demand as a portrait painter and this drew him into a social set that included the Berry brothers. And so it was that he joined the conversation that not only settled on the very Scottish name Cutty Sark but also, there and then, mapped out the label which was to stay pretty much the same for 80 years, with only modest recent adjustments. The image of the sailing ship, Cutty Sark, against a yellow background on green glass became one of the most recognizable whisky bottles in the world.

The name had its origin in Robert Burns’ epic poem, Tam o’Shanter, where the fastest of fleeing Tam's pursuers was immortalised in the line “Weel done, Cutty Sark” which then became a popular Scottish catchphrase.

Literally, cutty sark meant ‘short skirt’.

When a Scots-born shipowner, Captain John Willis, commissioned a sailing boat with the ambition for it to become the fastest tea clipper on the Shanghai to London route, built in Dumbarton and launched in 1869, Cutty Sark was a name with resonance and the vessel’s bow was adorned with a figurehead depicting the fleet-footed temptress.

The Cutty Sark never won the tea race but did become the fastest vessel on the Sydney to London wool run. However, sail was being overtaken by the age of steam and the opening of the Suez Canal consigned these amazing voyages to nostalgic history.

The Cutty Sark was the last of the great sailing ships but by the early 1900s had been sold to Portuguese owners. However, the hero of the tale became Captain Wilfred Dowman, a retired windjammer skipper who had the good fortune to be married to a Courtauld heiress and harboured a burning desire to bring the Cutty Sark back to Britain.

When, in 1923, he succeeded in doing so, it became a massive story in the popular press – a rare flash of good news in a country still emerging from the grim post-war trauma. It was a happy coincidence of timing. With the Cutty Sark in the headlines, Berry Brothers & Rudd, augmented by McBey’s creativity, decided that the full-blown sailing ship, carrying all before her, offered the perfect image for a more optimistic era.

There was also one eye on the American market in which Scotch had started to boom prior to the introduction of Prohibition in 1920. Three years later, nobody expected that doomed piece of social engineering to last much longer, not least because it was being so widely circumvented while feeding wholesale

criminality. As events transpired, it was to be around for another decade.

While the owners of Cutty Sark may have been gentlemen in London, they soon proved to be masters of finding partners in the bootlegging trade with the innumerable speakeasies – 32,000 in New York City alone – as willing customers. Cutty Sark became the favoured whisky of Prohibition-era America.

As its official history delicately recalls: “The brand’s in-roads had been effectively laid during the shadowy decade of 1924 to 1933.” Bahamas was probably the most favoured route while “on the small island of St. Pierre off the coast of Labrador and Newfoundland stands a small house built during Prohibition called Villa Cutty Sark… When it officially started being imported into the US market in late 1933, Cutty Sark was already known and beloved by its American audience.”

And that, pretty much, is where John Rudd – subject of that Telegraph obituary – came in, selling the legitimised product into the United States to the point where it became the country’s most popular whisky brand while travelling constantly to achieve similar status in diverse markets around the world.

As befitted the Cutty Sark connection, John Rudd was himself “an accomplished sailor as the owner of Solace, a 60-foot Norfolk wherry built in 1903 and a rare surviving example of the stately craft that once plied the Norfolk Broads” – which just goes to confirm the point about Telegraph obituaries being as detailed as their subjects are characterful. Under John Rudd’s direction, Cutty Sark for many years put its name to the Tall Ships Race – an unusually appropriate example of commercial sponsorship!

The Cutty Sark brand was acquired from Berry Brothers & Rudd by the Edrington Group in 2010 and they in turn sold it eight years later to the second largest French drinks company, La Martiniquaise-Bardinet, who saw it as a rapid route into the expansion of their presence in the global whisky market. Once again, Cutty Sark was relied upon to go full sail ahead.

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Industry Insider

High society

Beautifully balanced and seriously sippable, House of Suntory’s James Bowker explains why you should have a whisky highball in hand this summer (and beyond).

IL LU STR ATION: K ATIE SM ITH

James, fill us in on a little Japanese whisky history. When did Japan first get a taste for whisky?

It was in the latter part of the nineteenth century. Japan came out of a period of isolation called the Edo period which had lasted for 250 years, and when that period ended there was a gradual creeping in of international products, particularly whisky.

Rumours about a foreign alcohol that tasted delicious and was two to three times stronger than anything made locally spread like wildfire and got people really excited, but the problem was that there wasn’t very much of it coming into the country.

for foreign spirits – he actually gained the reputation as ‘the nose’ of Osaka.

Being a pharmacist, Torii also had the ability to understand how this stuff was actually made, as well as a good knowledge of blending due to his experience combining different herbal remedies to create medicine.

In 1899 Torii set up his own business making liqueurs and wines, but his dream was very much to make the first Japanese whisky.

Eventually he gathered enough capital to start doing this, employing Masataka Taketsuru on his return from a distilling apprenticeship in Scotland and opening Yamazaki Distillery in 1923.

How did Suntory get involved?

There was a moment in Japanese whisky history called the Ersatz period where people in Japan were trying to work out just how whisky was made, with no real knowledge or understanding. During this time, low-quality and fake whiskies were being made and Suntory’s founder was basically the answer to that problem.

Shinjiro Torii originally worked as a pharmacist, and at that time a pharmacy was the only place where you could legally buy foreign alcohol in Japan. Torii therefore had access to whisky that other people just didn’t have. He quickly fell in love with it and discovered that he had a real palate

How does Japanese whisky differ to Scotch?

One of the things Shinjiro Torii discovered early on was that customers buying the whisky he imported from Scotland found it a bit too powerful, and he soon realised that there was this real distinction between the Japanese palate and the western palate.

I always use the example of food. Think of British foods – haggis, roast dinners, English breakfasts – and contrast those rich and indulgent flavours with sashimi, ramen... even tempura is really delicate and light. In the UK we have bitter tea that you need to add milk to, while the Japanese have green tea. We have wine, while they have sake.

Shinjiro Torii decided that there needed to be a new category of whisky that was specifically made by the Japanese people, for the Japanese palate.

From day one at Suntory, it was very much the vision not to copy the Scots but rather to make the world’s best whisky and

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The highball is enjoyed exactly the same way a beer is here in the UK. It’s cold, it has a similar alcoholic strength, it’s got that same carbonation and, like a beer, it just goes really well with food.

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Industry Insider

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Shinjiro Torii decided that there needed to be a new category of whisky that was specifically made by the Japanese people, for the Japanese palate.

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make it for the Japanese palate. A part of Japanese culture called ‘kaizen’ requires craftspeople to master the best method that exists and that was why Shinjiro Torii turned to Scotland for inspiration – because he believed that Scotland had the best whisky at that point.

Being more delicate in style, how do the Japanese typically drink their whisky?

Delicate, complex and balanced are the three signifiers that Shinjiro Torii used to describe the Japanese palate and having realised that, there was a much greater understanding of how Japanese whisky would be consumed.

At that time in Europe, whisky was either consumed neat or in a highball. Immediately the highball was much more popular in Japan because of its delicate style, but also because it tied in with traditional ways of drinking in Japan generally. Historically, both local styles of alcohol, sake and shochu, would have been cut with water so it felt very logical for the Japanese to do the same with foreign spirits.

Knowledge Bar

Suntory’s perfect highball serves Give these three serves a go, ensuring all ingredients and glassware are chilled before preparation.

Toki Highball 1 part Suntory Toki Whisky 4 parts Merchant's Heart Soda Water Garnish with Grapefruit Zest Izakaya Highball 1 part Suntory Toki Whisky 4 parts Fever Tree Spiced Orange Ginger Ale Garnish with Orange Zest Toki-do Highball 1 part Suntory Toki Whisky 4 parts London Essence White Peach and Jasmine Soda Garnish with Mint

Three main whisky drinking styles soon emerged in Japan and still exist today: the half rock (where whisky is equally cut with water), the mizuwari (which is roughly a three-to-one ratio of whisky to water), and the sodawari or highball (which is the equivalent of the mizuwari but with soda water).

It’s interesting to hear that the highball was already being enjoyed in Europe before it made its way to Japan. What is the history of the drink?

The highball is an ancient drink and was by no means invented in Japan, although it was refined there. The drink was originally invented in Britain and became very popular from the late nineteenth century, when ice became much more common. Over the next 40 to 50 years, the highball became more and more popular across Europe – I believe Winston Churchill said Cognac and soda and whisky and soda were his two favourite drinks.

The highball was then introduced to American culture by New York bartender Patrick Duffy who served the drink to British actors working in the city. The highball became hugely popular in America to the point where it was mentioned in F. Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby as well as being featured in Vogue’s Book of Etiquette in 1948 and Esquire’s Handbook for Hosts in 1949. It became a symbol of good taste and refinement.

carbonation and, like a beer, it just goes really well with food.

One of the main ways the highball is consumed in Japan is at what’s called an ‘izakaya’, which is effectively a Japanese pub.

Almost anybody that goes for a casual drink after work in Japan will go to an izakaya and enjoy a highball alongside ‘yakitori’, which are barbecued chicken skewers. It’s a perfect combination; just delicious.

So, it’s not just a summer drink?

It’s one of the best-selling drinks in Japan all year round, and it’s enjoyed at all hours of the day. Tokyo was probably the first 24/7 city in the world. People who live there regularly finish work at midnight or 1am – and it’s still highball time!

What is House of Suntory’s perfect highball serve?

Our perfect serve combines one part Suntory Toki Whisky with four parts Merchant’s Heart Soda Water, before garnishing with grapefruit zest. Get as much ice as you can fit in there and get everything as cold as possible before preparation. Weirdly to us as westerners, your highball whisky would normally be kept in the freezer! The colder the highball, the better the carbonation, resulting in a drink that stays consistent from the first sip until the last.

Why does Suntory whisky lend itself so well to this drink?

At Suntory, we’re blending whiskies in such a way that there are layers of flavour which How did the highball become a Suntory unfold as you take each sip – the whisky perfect serve? doesn’t throw everything at you at once.

Following Japan’s defeat at the end of the We’re aware that the majority of Japanese Second World War, there was a period of drinkers will add some amount of water economic boom and massive Americanisation to their whisky, so we want to make sure it where Japanese culture began embracing unfolds in the most elegant and nuanced way the American way of life. It was seen as an possible. opportunity for freedoms that maybe hadn’t been experienced in the country in the past.

Minimal and balanced, the highball Suntory very much welcomed this – the seems like a drink symbolic of the company wanted to give people a chance to Japanese culture. be vibrant and explore, while staying true to Absolutely. In Japanese culture, huge Japanese values. In the 1950s, Suntory started value is placed on harmony and balance opening Tori’s bars – official Suntory-owned within every element of life – including the cocktail bars that were there to spread the whisky drinking experience. One of the big knowledge and passion for Japanese whisky. challenges of drinking neat whisky is that it’s Suntory opened 35,000 bars in ten a bit much for most of us – even for me as a years, which is absolutely mind-boggling! seasoned whisky drinker! With the perfect Although there were strict standards of highball, philosophically you should feel no service, the bars were all about having fun separation between you and the experience and unsurprisingly, looking at its popularity of the whisky’s flavour. In Japan, that’s why throughout the world at this time, the such focus is put on things like the delicacy highball was the signature drink on the menu. of the glass and the crystal clearness of the ice, so that if you close your eyes and just How should the highball be enjoyed? take a sip, you feel this moment of absolute The highball is enjoyed exactly the same harmony with flavour, with nature, and way a beer is here in the UK. It’s cold, it has a with whisky. similar alcoholic strength, it’s got that same

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

Distillery Visit

The whiskiest place in the world One of only three remaining distilleries located in the world’s former whisky capital, Gavin D Smith goes behind the scenes at Campeltown’s Glen Scotia Distillery.

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

Distillery Visit

Knowledge Bar

Campbeltown S COTL A N D

Campbeltown

FIRTH OF C LY D E

Campbeltown is one of five officially designated malt whisky producing regions of Scotland.

Established on Campbeltown’s High Street in 1832, Glen Scotia Distillery passed through several ownerships before it was purchased by the Loch Lomond Group in 2014.

Originally known as Kinlochkilkerran, it was renamed in the seventeenth century as Campbell's Town after Archibald Campbell, the Earl of Argyll, was granted the site in 1667.

The town lies by Campbeltown Loch on the Kintyre peninsula and its rich whisky heritage is the inspiration behind the well-known folk song Campbeltown Loch, I wish you were whisky.

Oh, Campbeltown Loch, I wish you were whisky, Campbeltown Loch, och aye!

Oh, Campbeltown Loch, I wish you were whisky, I would drink you dry.

“Call in next time you’re passing through, it would be good to catch up,” says Iain McAlister, manager and master distiller of Glen Scotia Distillery in the historic Argyllshire fishing port of Campbeltown. There is just one drawback. You are never ‘passing through’ Campbeltown on the way to anywhere, unless it’s the Mull of Kintyre.

Campbeltown is the capital of Kintyre, sometimes jokingly referred to as the longest cul-de-sac in Scotland, and the town sits on a small sea loch, some 140 miles southwest of Glasgow.

It is now the smallest of the five officially designated malt whisky producing regions of Scotland, with just three working distilleries, but back in the early nineteenth century, Campbeltown was the hottest name in Scotch whisky, with a long tradition of illicit distillation on the remote Kintyre peninsula feeding into licensed operations.

As was the case all over Scotland, the 1823 Excise Act, which made legal distillation a more financially rewarding prospect, stimulated the legitimate trade in Campbeltown, with no fewer than 24 new distilleries coming on stream between the passing of the Act and 1835.

SCOTIA

One of these ventures was named Scotia, established on Campbeltown’s High Street in 1832, four years after its modern rival Springbank was founded on the town’s

Longrow. Scotia was the creation of the town’s Dean of Guild James Stewart and Provost John Galbraith, whose families operated it until 1891.

In that year, the business was bought by Duncan MacCallum – who had established Glen Nevis Distillery during 1877 – and incorporated as Stewart, Galbraith and Company Limited. Around this time, Scotia was equipped with three stills, and boasted an annual capacity of 85,000 gallons, or 386,000 litres. In 1919 Scotia was one of six Campbeltown distilleries, including Glen Nevis, which formed West Highland Malt Distilleries with a view to sharing costs and prevent potential closures. However, in 1923, West Highland entered voluntary administration, with five of the six founding distilleries closing forever. Only the intervention of Duncan MacCallum, who bought back Scotia, saved it from the same fate.

The distillery fell silent in 1928, but reopened two years later. Sadly, however, MacCallum was discovered drowned in Crosshill Loch that year, aged 83. It is widely believed that he committed suicide after being cheated out of his life savings, and his ghost is said to haunt Glen Scotia Distillery to this day.

The decimation of Campbeltown’s distilling industry, that saw more than 20 distilleries reduced to just two by 1935, may partly be blamed by the imposition

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Glen Scotia has a great flavour profile, with subtle oiliness and salinity.

Ian McAlister Glen Scotia Distillery Manager

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Distillery Visit

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Our heritage is incredibly important.

There’s nowhere quite like Campbeltown.

Ian McAlister Glen Scotia Distillery Manager

Campbeltown has been officially recognised as ‘the whiskiest place in the world’ by Parliament, thanks to the town’s whisky heritage, having once been home to over 30 distilleries. Today, just three working distilleries remain, and Campbeltown is the smallest of the five officially designated malt whisky producing regions of Scotland.

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of Prohibition in the USA during 1920, as Campbeltown was heavily reliant on the US market for sales.

Shortly before Prohibition was repealed, Scotia fell silent in March 1930, but despite the adversity facing Campbeltown’s distillers, Scotia was purchased in 1933 by Bloch Brothers, which subsequently added ‘Glen’ to the name, retaining ownership of the distillery until 1954. In that year, Bloch’s distilling assets were acquired by the Canadian company Hiram Walker Ltd, which sold Glen Scotia on to Glasgowbased blender A. Gillies & Co a year later.

Gillies subsequently became part of Amalgamated Distilled Products Ltd, which in turn was purchased by Gibson International during 1986, and despite a degree of investment in the fabric of Glen Scotia in 1979, the distillery was silent from 1984 until 1989.

The rollercoaster of acquisitions continued, with Gibson’s whisky interests being purchased by Glen Catrine Bonded Warehouse Ltd in 1994. Glen Catrine also owned Loch Lomond and Littlemill Distilleries, and began distilling small amounts of whisky at Glen Scotia in 1999, courtesy of an arrangement

with Springbank staff, and a degree of muchneeded investment followed.

The distillery was not done with changes of ownership, however, and in the spring of 2014 the Loch Lomond Group – belonging to Exponent Private Equity – purchased the Glen Catrine Bonded Warehouse business.

Two years later, a new core range of single malts was launched, and a visitor centre and shop were subsequently developed, while capacity was increased by the addition of three new stainless-steel fermenters. Warehousing was also augmented and expanded.

distillery manager at Glen Scotia. I started in March 2008, working with manager Hector Gatt, but he was ready to retire and left at the end of May, when I was appointed manager. You probably wouldn’t get that sort of chance now.”

He explains that “I worked closely with John Peterson, master distiller for the Loch Lomond Group, looking at all aspects of distilling at Glen Scotia. We looked at the fundamentals, from milling through mashing, fermentation and distillation, changing various things, and in particular, opting for much longer fermentations.

“That nailed down the Glen Scotia/ Campbeltown style, making it more accessible, IAIN McALISTER but keeping its complexity and robustness. Glen Unquestionably, one of the smartest moves Scotia has a great flavour profile, with subtle made by the Loch Lomond Group was to oiliness and salinity. Once Loch Lomond Group appoint Iain McAlister as assistant manager in took over, they invested in the distillery and moved 2008. A Campbeltown native, McAlister says everything up a gear. When I started, there was that “There was no previous family involvement no marketing or sales activity for Glen Scotia.” in distilling, not of the legal kind, anyway. It Today, with the Loch Lomond Group would have been out on the hill in the past that in the hands of Hillhouse Capital the McAlisterswere making whisky!

Management, Glen Scotia is vigorously “I trained as an engineer and went out to promoted, with principal markets including New Zealand in the 1990s, but when my wife and France, Germany, Sweden, Netherlands, I came back to start a family in Scotland, we came Japan, Taiwan, USA and Australia, all of back to Campbeltown. I worked with Scottish which have been seeing growth in recent Water, but I’d always had a passion for whisky years, while China is also fast becoming a and for local history, and I got the job as assistant significant market for the single malt. With

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

Distillery Visit

Glen Scotia 25 Year Old being recognised as the ‘Best in Show’ and overall winner at this year’s San Francisco World Spirits Competition, international demand will surely only grow.

One major area of investment during recent years has been in good wood, and McAlister notes that “We fill into first-fill and second-fill bourbon casks and some medium-char casks, along with a number of experimental ones, which may end up as single cask bottlings.

“We have a total of nine staff members, with five in production, and we will be making around 520,000 litres of spirit during 2021.

When I started, it was only around 100,000 litres.” Each year, one month of activity through the pair of short, squat stills is dedicated to making peated spirit, varying from 15-20ppm up to 54-55ppm.

VISITING GLEN SCOTIA

Ian McAlister explains that “Creating a visitor centre was a big thing for us, and we tidied the distillery up a lot. That was badly needed. It was always dull, dingy and grubby, and now it’s shining!” The beautifully presented distillery shop carries the full range of whiskies, including exclusive single cask bottlings and stylish gift items, and McAlister notes that “We go from a ‘standard’ tour up to a manager’s tour, which I conduct. We are very flexible and try to leave a lasting impression on the people who make the effort to come here.”

The Dunnage Tour is a particular favourite, and includes the chance to sample whisky direct from five casks in the warehouse. Some of the whiskies are up to 21 years old and may be bottled in single cask format from time to time.

The Dunnage Tour at Glen Scotia is popular with visitors, allowing customers the chance to sample whisky direct from five casks in the warehouse – some containing liquid up to 21 years old.

WHISKIEST PLACE FESTIVAL

Since its inception in 2009, Glen Scotia has participated in the Campbeltown Malts Festival, but last year Covid-19 caused the cancellation of the event. At short notice, however, Glen Scotia staged a virtual festival of its own which drew in over 10,000 participants, and included filmed tours uploaded to the internet along with a virtual Dunnage Tour.

This festival highlight will be repeated during the 2021 Glen Scotia Virtual Malts Festival, which begins on 7th June, and for a limited time, members of The W Club will be entered into a draw to win an exclusive Glen Scotia Dunnage Tasting Pack and video access to a private distillery tasting with the purchase of any 70cl Glen Scotia bottle online. Head to whiskyshop.com for full details. As usual, a limited edition festival bottling will also be available – this year, a 10-year-old Bordeaux red wine finish – which Charlie MacLean has tasted and reviewed on page 17.

Glen Scotia uses the strapline ‘Whisky made by history,’ and a recent venture has been an appeal for photographs of Campbeltown in days gone by. “We’re looking for stuff on Campbeltown and its whisky heritage,” says Iain McAlister, “and we’ll hopefully stage a mini exhibition at some point. Our heritage is incredibly important. There’s nowhere quite like Campbeltown. It’s a small but powerful region even though it doesn’t make a million litres of spirit a year in total.”

McAlister was also behind the move to have Campbeltown recognised as ‘the whiskiest place in the world,’ and he reports that “It reached the statutes. It was officially recognised as the whiskiest place in the world by Parliament. A very good bit of publicity and a nod to all those who came and went and added so much to the town’s whisky heritage. It attracted a lot of attention.”

For many decades, when most of Glen Scotia’s make was destined for the blending vats, the distillery and its whisky lived in the significant shadow of Springbank, the

Campbeltown single malt whisky. Now, however, much has changed and while Glen Scotia has been notably proactive in marketing its range of whiskies, Springbank has never been known for ‘active promotion,’ preferring the ‘build it and they will come’ approach. When asked the slightly mischievous question of whether Springbank can now be considered Campbeltown’s ‘other’ whisky, Iain McAlister chuckles and says that “It reminds me a bit of when I used to sit ‘O’ levels. Some students, like me, had to study really hard, and others breezed through. They just had it. Springbank is a natural! At Glen Scotia we’ve had to put in a great deal of effort to get where we are.”

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INSPIRED ON THE SHORES OF LOCH FYNE

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

Interview

Singer-songwriter Rachel Sermanni on her new EP, balancing music with motherhood and getting back to gigging.

S T O T E L

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R Y L E R

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Interview

Hailing from the Scottish Highlands and touring the world since the age of 18, Rachel Sermanni has never been short of inspiring surroundings.

Today is no different as we join Rachel at picturesque Monachyle Mhor Hotel, perched between Loch Doine and Loch Voil, in the heart of the Trossachs.

Rachel’s love of adventure and the wild resonates in her music, and her lyrics speak candidly of her own experiences. We sit down with her to hear her story.

PH OTO GR A PHY: BR IA N SW E E N EY

Rachel, congratulations on your new EP, Swallow Me. How did you first discover your love of singing and music?

As a kid, I was very much into performance and making little plays with family and friends. I don’t necessarily know where I get it from, but I imagine the Irish ancestors on my mum’s side probably have something to do with it.

I played the whistle from a young age, but not well, and I started playing the fiddle soon after – again, really badly. Then, at around the age of 14, I started learning the guitar.

Someone at school taught me the basics and I led myself from there. Because there was no formal training, I think that led me to start writing songs very quickly. You learn the chords and then immediately you’re trying to do something with them. I loved it. It was proper reprieve, relief, therapy.

I’ve kind of flown with it since then. By the time I was 18 I was touring, and when I was 19 I went on a major European tour with a band called Fink.

You and Finn Greenall of Fink have been friends for a long time, and Finn actually produced the four songs on your new EP. Yes, Finn has been influential throughout my music career. Touring with Fink was my baptism of fire across Europe; very innocent Rachel goes on the road with older rockers.

It was so much fun!

I remember during that first tour saying I didn’t know if I even had an album in me, and Finn saying, “Yes, you definitely do.” He said the same when it came to making a second album,

and then he helped me find the recording studio for my third album in Berlin. So, it was a long time coming – I think he was keen to produce something of mine for a while.

I feel so lucky because I’ve found so many beautiful connections with humans in what I do. I think it comes down to the notion of play. As a teenager, I was a Peter Pan and didn’t ever want to grow up. I really loved to play, and I’ve carried that through to adulthood. We learn more about each other in play more than anything.

I like how cheeky Finn is. For some reason, I think people think they need to be really careful with me – they’re scared to break me or something. There’s no worry in that and Finn knows that. I like it when someone’s able to speak their mind and their truth to me, and he’s able to do it with humour. That’s what makes him really fun to play with.

For anyone unfamiliar, can you describe your style of music?

My music is of the folk ilk, but not traditional.

It’s a form of telling a story, and it’s got that simple acoustic line underneath it, but it isn’t traditional.

Who are your main musical influences?

My early influences were Eva Cassidy, Joni Mitchell and Bob Dylan – the classic folkies.

Also Karine Polwart, Dixie Chicks, Dolly Parton… I still listen to a lot of them. And lots of reggae – my mum played reggae music a lot when I was growing up.

These days I adore Adrianne Lenker of Big

Thief, Sufjan Stevens, Sam Amidon – he is an ever-love! I also like jazz – weird jazz – where you don’t know what’s going on. Anything that’s a bit guttural, like Charles Mingus or Tom Waites… something that kind of comes up from beneath.

Tell us a little about your new EP and the inspiration behind it.

The four songs on the EP were written before I had my daughter, Rosa. Love my Love was written pre-Rosa entirely, and addresses an old but everlasting relationship that I had. Brighton House and Travelled were both written while I was touring in the USA just after I found out I was pregnant, so I was on

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My music is of the folk ilk, but not traditional. It’s a form of telling a story, and it’s got that simple acoustic line underneath it, but it isn’t traditional.

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❝ As a teenager,

I was a Peter Pan and didn’t ever want to grow up. I really loved to play, and I’ve carried that through to adulthood.

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Interview

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my own for almost five weeks processing that.

It was great because I needed to be alone, and I needed to have my adventure.

The whole EP is really an attempt to let go – to just flow with whatever is being and current.

And what about Swallow Me, the title track released earlier in summer?

Swallow Me was written just two weeks before my daughter was born. The song is me asking for some sort of relief, or maybe seeking some acknowledgement that I was going to be ok.

Looking back, it was obviously just a massive growth spurt, but at the point of writing the song, I was like, “Holy crap, I’m literally about to give birth. I don’t know if I can do it.” The song speaks of my struggles, but also struggles that many people deal with.

The songs were written a couple of years ago, but when were they recorded?

I recorded the songs during the pandemic, in various living rooms and sheds, surrounded by a deconstructed sofa to act as soundproofing. I think that’s quite cool because you can hear something’s a bit weird, but it adds to it. It’s reflective of the time. I then sent the songs to Finn, who has done a really beautiful job of giving them what they need.

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The whole EP is really an attempt to let go – to just flow with whatever is being and current.

How are you finding life as a musician and a mum?

It’s been interesting as I’m coming back to music as I am, not as I was. Since having Rosa, it’s taken a wee while to feel like the dust is settling enough so that expression can rise – and I was curious to know if expression was going to rise. I think it is, and that’s very relieving.

I feel much more fearless thanks to Rosa; curious and courageous. Before Rosa, my main focus was to have adventure and save enough money so that I had a pile for the next project. Now, my aim is to have enough money to make sure that we’re settled and that I enjoy an artistic life whilst also living as a mum. That’s the new adventure and it’s spurring me on to be more business-minded, which feels cool.

I’m still navigating what it is to be creative in my new phase, but I’m getting there, and I’m so excited to take Rosa on tour when she’s older. There are so many things I want to show her.

The pandemic has forced a different way of life for many, but it sounds like you were already preparing for a lot of change.

Yes, I totally got the head start on that.

At the beginning of the pandemic, I saw loads of musician friends experiencing everything I had been experiencing just through being a

mammy. I had been there already. You have to stop everything; recalibrate, reflect and figure out how to further yourself without the ease that came before.

Having Rosa as company throughout the pandemic has been amazing. We live in Portobello where we are surrounded by a really artistic and family-oriented community, and then you have the beach.

It’s ideal. I miss the wild of the north, but now that lockdown has lifted, Rosa and I can have those adventures and still have our base in Portobello. It feels nice.

When writing a song, what comes first, the words or the melody?

Generally, I see them as parallel streets. I’m always journaling, and always writing. Then I’m always picking up my guitar and trying out some things. At some point the streets will meet, and sometimes it will be a spontaneous combustion moment where I’m like,“Boom!

I’ve found it.” Other times it’s far slower than that, but a lot of the time I find that whatever I’ve been playing on the guitar and humming over the top starts to resonate with the words I’ve been writing.

Your lyrics are very poetic. Do you read a lot, and are you inspired by the literature you read?

Yes, I read a lot. That really does help.

Especially fiction. I’m reading lots of nonfiction at the moment but when I read a good novel, it sets little fires alight.

I also use dreams. The minute I wake up, I write them down or record them into my phone. It’s really funny to listen back to a halfasleep person telling you some weird story!

I’m very into Carl Jung and his way of thinking about being in the right relationship with the unconscious. If we’re listening to that world, we’re giving the unconscious an opportunity to vent itself, otherwise we’re just putting all our fears and everything we’re suppressing at the back of our minds, and it can explode out in various ways. That’s why I’m a massive advocate for creativity. Even if you don’t know what you’re doing, the unconscious will take over.

I think of my life as being a healthy one, and I think that’s a lot down to being creative and having means to express, even if I don’t know what it is I’m trying to say. I just try.

And I’m trying to find ways in which I can empower other people to feel like that.

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You can see how nature affects people, and growing up surrounded by it was quite sacred and holy to me.

The spirit of it imbued my early songs – they were more expansive, undulating and just had more space in them.

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You grew up in Carrbridge in the Scottish Highlands. What a beautiful place! Did you feel inspired by your surroundings?

Absolutely. You can see how nature affects people, and growing up surrounded by it was quite sacred and holy to me. The spirit of it imbued my early songs – they were more expansive, undulating and just had more space in them.

When I moved to a more urban environment, I felt that change. My songs got a bit more armoured; they became more percussive, needing of structures and they shouted a bit more, because you need to be heard in that space.

Growing up just outside of Speyside, you must have enjoyed a dram or two there?

The Old Bridge Inn in Aviemore was our local and I would always order a single whisky which I would savour throughout the night.

And going back to my introvert ways, I’ve always loved a whisky and a book, on my own.

I like peated whisky because it feels more medicinal – there’s total magic to it.

As the country reopens, what’s coming up for you later this year?

I have a UK tour coming up in the autumn, and I’m feeling really excited to get back to performing. In saying that, I’m a little nervous because lockdown has meant that everyone has lost their stamina. For me, it will be playing gigs for seven nights in a row – I’m going to have to literally train for that! Lots of yoga for my voice and my breath, and I’m going to have to practise the songs.

Do you enjoy being on stage?

I feel very comfortable on stage; most comfortable. It just feels like a very good place to be. Maybe it’s a sense of fulfilment and purpose. Maybe it’s just knowing what my role is, to hold other people and express something for them. So yes, it feels very much like a comfortable place. A joyous place. Also, life is very short. If you can do something you enjoy, then just revel in it.

It took practice. I got very, very nervous when I was much younger, but now it kind of feels like yoga to me; lots of breath, lots of movement, and I always feel rejuvenated after it. It will be so nice to get back to it.

As well as touring, what do you look forward to doing as life becomes more normal?

That’s a really lovely question. I will visit my friend in Orkney and my family in the Highlands, and I will cuddle people – unabashedly! It’s going to take a moment to aclimatise to being allowed to cuddle people. I’ll also look to have a wee housewarming, with plenty of tunes.

To hear Rachel’s new music and keep in the loop about tickets for her UK tour, visit www.rachelsermanni.com.

——————————————————— Stylist: Jack Shanks Make-up: Stephanie Ferry Photo Assistant: Mae Mackenzie Venue: Monachyle Mhor Hotel

Look one: Dress, Batsheva Tights, Falke Shoes, ZARA Look two: Co-ord, Salotto I.M.D. Socks, Simone Rocha x H&M Shoes, Dr. Martens Look three: Dress, Maeve Shirt, Levi’s Jacket, Suede Club Socks, Falke Look four: Dress, Bardot Look five: Jumpsuit, Peachy Den Socks, Falke Shoes, ZARA

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

Mixing It Up

Sweet summertime Stateside spirits meet the best of British: Hi-Spirits’ Tom Hodgkiss celebrates sunnier days with a range of fruity serves.

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Mixing It Up

As the country restarts, so too do beach days, barbecues and picnics in the park – and we’re wasting no time getting into the spirit of things, with a little help from Hi-Spirits’ Tom Hodgkiss.

Using five bottles from Hi-Spirits’ portfolio of delicious things, Tom has crafted a menu of cocktails that will see you through the sunnier months.

“Whilst the world has a range of spirits we all love to drink, here in the UK we have the most amazing homegrown ingredients,” explains Tom. “British summertime offers up plenty of fresh ingredients that lend themselves so well to some easy-to-make (and even easier to drink) cocktails.”

PH OTOGR A PH Y: CH R I ST I N A KE R N OH A N

Stylist: Emma Duncan Photo Assistant: Cat Thomson Drinks: Josh Knox

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¹/ Blueberry & Cucumber Fizz

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²/ Apple Highball

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³/ The Bees Knees

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⁴/ Manhattan Spritz

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⁵/ Blood Moon Sour

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Mixing It Up

¹/ Blueberry & Cucumber Fizz

²/ Apple Highball

³/ The Bees Knees

37.5ml Wheatley Vodka 12.5ml Volare Blueberry Liqueur 12.5ml Lemon Juice 100ml Lemonade — Method: Add all ingredients to a tall glass filled with ice. Churn with the lemonade and garnish.

— Glass: Highball Garnish: Blueberries, Cucumber, Mint and Lemon Twist — Smooth in taste, the exquisite vodka in this drink partners perfectly with blueberries, cucumber, mint and lemon. A refreshing cocktail to be enjoyed at a garden party with friends.

— Produced in small batches and distilled a total of ten times, Wheatley Vodka is masterfully created at Buffalo Trace Distillery in Kentucky; the world's most awarded distillery. Crafted under the care of the distillery’s master blender, Harlen Wheatley, this vodka is made from a base of wheat and other grains to produce a delicate and balanced flavour profile.

— Wheatley Vodka 70cl | 41% VOL | £28

50ml Seignette VS Cognac 150ml Cawston Press Apple Juice 25ml Lemon Juice — Method: Pour the Cognac and lemon juice into a highball glass over cubed ice.

Top with sparkling apple juice and garnish.

— Glass: Highball Garnish: Slice of Apple and Lemon Peel — Cognac is such a versatile spirit. This refreshing cocktail is perfect for a hot summer's day, and it also works brilliantly as a jug serve when enjoying an evening with friends. The addition of apple juice lifts the apricot and vanilla notes of the Cognac. Sometimes keeping it simple is best!

— With an impressive depth of flavour, Seignette VS Cognac works perfectly in cocktails or as a neat serve. Named after the Seignette family who were prominent salt and Cognac traders in seventeenth century France, the bottle’s elegant swan label pays tribute to their family crest.

— Seignette VS Cognac 70cl | 40% VOL | £32

50ml Brooklyn Gin 25ml Lemon Juice 20ml Honey — Method: Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker and shake with ice. Double strain into a coupe glass and garnish.

— Glass: Coupe Garnish: Honeycomb — A short, sharp cocktail that pays homage to the great British bee. Honey and lemon are a perfect pairing, with Brooklyn Gin bringing it all together. Sit back, sip and savour this one.

— Brooklyn Gin takes the crown as New York City’s most premium small batch gin. Made with hand-cut citrus peels, hand-cracked juniper and distilled in just one copper pot still, it takes three days to make 300 bottles of this lovely stuff.

— Brooklyn Gin 70cl | 40% VOL | £40

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⁴/ Manhattan Spritz

⁵/ Blood Moon Sour

25ml Eagle Rare 10 Year Old 25ml Carpano Bitter 25ml Antica Formula 1 dash Regan’s Orange Bitters Top with Prosecco — Method: Add all ingredients to a tall glass filled with ice. Gently stir before adding more ice and top with prosecco. Add a little orange zest before garnishing.

— Glass: Highball Garnish: Maraschino Cherry and Orange Twist — Eagle Rare 10 Year Old is one of the world’s most awarded whiskeys and is traditionally served short and strong. For this summer drink, the classic Manhattan cocktail has been lengthened with some fizz! It’s a perfect early evening accompaniment to a smoky barbecue.

— Also distilled at Buffalo Trace Distillery, Eagle Rare 10 Year Old is masterfully crafted and carefully aged for no less than a decade. Living up to its name with its lofty and distinctive flavour profile, each barrel is hand-selected to offer consistent flavour but with individual personality.

— Eagle Rare 10 Year Old 70cl | 45% VOL | £43

50ml Buffalo Trace Bourbon 25ml Pinot Noir Wine 25ml Lemon Juice 1 heaped teaspoon Black Cherry Conserve 1 Egg White — Method: Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker. Dry shake for 10 seconds.

Add ice to shaker and wet shake until the tin begins frosting over. Double strain into a short glass and garnish before adding a drop of red wine.

— Glass: Whisky Tumbler Garnish: Orange Twist and Cherry — A simple twist on the classic whisky sour.

Juicy British black cherries marry perfectly with the smoky taste of Buffalo Trace Bourbon. The richness from the red wine and sharpness of the lemon juice make this a delicious, balanced cocktail for those long summer evenings.

— Buffalo Trace Bourbon is the flagship bourbon from the eponymous distillery.

Using the finest Kentucky and Indiana corn, specially selected rye, and superior malted barley, it’s aged in new oak barrels for at least eight years to create a perfectly balanced flavour profile of sweet oak and spice.

— Buffalo Trace Bourbon 70cl | 40% VOL | £30

Find the Hi-Spirits range in-store and online at The Whisky Shop.

whiskyshop.com

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ISSUE

Summer 2021

UNIQUE DIFFER ENT INTER ESTING

BUY ONLINE AT

whiskyshop.com

Spirits of summer IN THIS ISSUE

Gifts for Dad

Fèis Ìle at home

Independence Day

Not just whisky

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➀ The Loch Fyne

Fèis Ìle

Bunnahabhain 14 Year Old 2005

50cl | 48% VOL | £95

Dark chocolate / Honey / Black cherries

→ An independently bottled peated single cask from one of Islay’s favourites → Aged for 14 years in a sherry cask resulting in lots of juicy, dark fruit flavours → Limited to just 868 bottles

Uncover Islay with these festival-worthy drams.

➁ Bunnahabhain

2008 Manzanilla Cask

70cl | 52.3% VOL | £149.99

Figs / Salted caramel / Cashew nuts

→ A unique release from Islay’s Bunnahabhain Distillery → A real sweet treat thanks to full maturation in ex-manzanilla sherry casks → Bottled at natural cask strength, free from chill filtration and added colouring

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➂ Bruichladdich

➄ Kilchoman

The Classic Laddie Scottish Barley Gift Set

70cl | 50% VOL | £52

2012 Sherry Cask The W Club Exclusive

Vanilla / Malted biscuit / Honey

70cl | 56% VOL | £110

Toasted almonds / Dried fruits / Dark chocolate

→ A single malt Scotch crafted by former Bruichladdich Master Distiller Jim McEwan → Complete with two finely crafted whisky glasses → Grab a mate and toast Islay together!

→ A cracker of a Kilchoman, distilled in 2012 at 50ppm → Matured in a single Pedro Ximénez sherry cask before being bottled in 2021 → Join The W Club to get your hands on this exclusive dram

➃ Bowmore

➅ Golden Cask

18 Year Old

70cl | 43% VOL | £109

Caol Ila 35 Year Old

Seaweed / Caramel / Bonfire smoke

→ An award-winning whisky that exudes classic Islay character → Aged within Bowmore’s No.1 Vaults, the oldest maturation warehouse in Scotland → The only warehouse below sea level, with thick stone walls that seep salt water

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70cl | 47.5% VOL | £650

Honey / Bonfire smoke / Treacle toffee

→ A single cask Caol Ila bottled for House of Macduff’s Golden Cask range → Expertly aged for over three decades in a single bourbon barrel → Highly limited, just 204 bottles exist

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

Father's Day Special bottles to gift and share with your dad on his day.

➀ Aberlour

14 Year Old Double Cask

70cl | 40% VOL | £54.95

Cherries / Caramel / Ginger

→ Speyside lovers, look no further! → Matured in a combination of oloroso sherry casks and first-fill American oak casks → A perfect representation of Aberlour’s fruity, spicy and sherried character

➁ The Dalmore

12 Year Old Sherry Cask Select The Whisky Shop Exclusive

70cl | 43% VOL | £69

Mango / Cinnamon / Panna cotta

→ A truly decadent dram aged in ex-bourbon casks and finished in sherry barrels from Andalucia → Exclusive to The Whisky Shop in the UK – treat your dad to something unique! → Sip it neat, drink it in an Old Fashioned or add it to a chocolate truffle mix

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➂ Kavalan

➄ The Macallan

Selection Vinho Cask The Whisky Shop Exclusive

70cl | 57.8% VOL | £225

12 Year Old Sherry Oak

Milk chocolate / Caramel / Cinnamon

70cl | 40% VOL | £75

Golden syrup / Marmalade / Ginger

→ Distilled, matured and bottled at Taiwan’s award-winning Kavalan Distillery → Highly limited, just 192 bottles were produced from cask no. W120309037A → Gift your dad something unique, different and interesting with this Whisky Shop exclusive

→ A deliciously smooth Macallan single malt with plenty of sherry cask influence → Has been dubbed 'simply the best 12-year-old single malt around’ → A favourite of dads the world over!

➃ Benriach The Twenty One

➅ Loch Lomond

70cl | 46% VOL | £145

The Open Special Edition

Sultanas / Pecans / Caramelised pear

→ A spectacular Speyside single malt matured for over two decades → Crafted from a combination of unpeated and peated spirit → Aged in bourbon barrels, sherry casks, virgin oak casks and Bordeaux red wine casks

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70cl | 46% VOL | £40

Vanilla / Maple syrup / Apricot jam

→ Matured in three types of American oak casks before a partial finish in virgin American oak → Created in partnership with pro-golfer Colin Montgomerie → One for the golf fans!

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

Father's Day Gift sets and glassware, perfectly packaged and ready to present.

➀ Gentleman Jack Tuxedo Gift Set

70cl | 40% VOL | £39

Caramel / Cinnamon / Vanilla

→ A gift set for the suavest of dads → Charcoal-mellowed before and after maturation for an exceptionally smooth finish → Presented in a unique and appropriately attired gift box

➁ Johnnie Walker Gold Label Gift Set

70cl | 40% VOL | £49

Nutmeg / Caramel / Banana

→ An award-winning blend, created by Master Blender Jim Beveridge → Includes single malt from Clynelish and a mix of Speyside, Highland and west coast whisky → Encased in a stunning gift box, complete with two Johnnie Walker branded tumblers

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➂ Johnnie Walker Taster Gift Set

➄ Talisker

Exploration Gift Set

3x5cl | 40% VOL | £20

3x5cl | Various % VOL | £11.99

→ Featuring three of the most popular expressions in the Johnnie Walker range → Savour 5cl bottles of Red Label, Black Label 12 Year Old and Gold Label Reserve → The perfect introduction to the famous Scotch blend

→ Explore award-winning whiskies from Talisker Distillery → Shaped by the coastal elements of the rugged Isle of Skye → Combines 5cl bottles of Talisker Skye, Talisker Storm and Talisker 10 Year Old

➃ Compass Box

➅ Pot Still Decanter

Malt Whisky Collection

and Two Glasses

3x5cl | Various % VOL | £25

20cl | 40% VOL | £45

→ Discover delicious drams from the signature range of Compass Box → Includes The Peat Monster, The Spice Tree and The Spaniard → Each bottle is beautifully labelled and presented in an elegant box

→ A fun whisky decanter, shaped like the magnificent pot still → Filled with 20cl of Highland malt whisky → Complete with two finely crafted tasting glasses

➆ Glencairn

Travel Set

➃

£35 → Compare and contrast favourite whiskies with a pair of fine tasting glasses → Complete with a beautiful leatherette case to keep the glasses safe when on the move → Crafted by award-winning glass makers Glencairn

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➀ Tincup

Party in the USA

American Whiskey

70cl | 42% VOL | £37

→ A whiskey named after the tin cups used by Colorado mining pioneers → A blend of Indiana ‘high rye’ bourbon and single malt whiskey from Colorado → Aged in charred American white oak barrels; cut with fresh water from the Rocky Mountains

Toasting the star-spangled banner on 4th July? Get these in your glass.

➀

Cinnamon / Black pepper / Caramel

➁

➁ Maker's Mark

Cask Strength

70cl | 55.05% VOL | £74.99

Vanilla / Cherries / Brown sugar

→ Presenting world-famous Maker's Mark bourbon in its purest form → Bottled at barrel proof and free from chill filtration → Smooth enough to be sipped neat, and bold enough to hold its own in a cocktail

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➂ High West Whiskey Double Rye

70cl | 46% VOL | £47.95

Cinnamon / Spearmint / Liquorice

➄ Heroes and Heretics

Stateside 8 Year Old George Dickel The Whisky Shop Exclusive

70cl | 51% VOL | £100

Popcorn / Toffee / Tinned peaches

→ A 2-year-old rye and 16-year-old rye combine to create this characterful whiskey → Claims to be the spiciest rye whiskey in the world → We’ll yee-haw to that!

→ A single cask George Dickel, bottled by Heroes and Heretics; just 251 bottles exist → Distilled in October 2011 before spending eight years in an American oak barrel → Exclusive to The Whisky Shop; celebrate with something unique!

➃ Woodford Reserve

➅ Eagle Rare

Cocktail Gift Set

20cl + 6cl | 43.2% VOL | £26.99

Vanilla / Coconut / Butterscotch

→ Toast Independence Day with the perfect Old Fashioned → Complete with a 20cl bottle of Woodford Reserve, rocks glass and Old Fashioned syrup → Stir all ingredients over ice for 10 seconds and garnish with a twist of orange

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10 Year Old

70cl | 45% VOL | £43

Candied almonds / Toffee / Cocoa

→ A top-quality bourbon produced at the famous Buffalo Trace Distillery → Aged for no less than ten years → Celebrated around the world with plenty of gold medals

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➀ Kyro

Summer of fun

Pink Gin

50cl | 38.2% VOL | £25.99

→ A pink gin 'made for everyone' by Kyro Distillery in Finland → Rye-based spirit is infused with foraged strawberries, lingonberries and rhubarb → Mix this one in a Bramble cocktail and enjoy

Spirits that scream summer! Mix them, stir them, sip them and shake them.

➀

Strawberries / Vanilla / Black pepper

➁

➁ The King's Ginger 50cl | 30% VOL | £24.99

Ginger / Lemon sherbet / Orange peel

→ An award-winning liqueur first commissioned in 1903 for King Edward VII → Made with molasses spirit, fresh ginger root and Italian lemon oil distillate → Top with Champagne for the ultimate garden party serve

➂

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➂ Plantation

➄ Ki No Bi

Pineapple Stiggins' Fancy Rum

70cl | 40% VOL | £40

Kyoto Dry Gin

Pineapple / Clove / Ripe banana

70cl | 45.7% VOL | £45.95

Ginger / Orange oil / Green tea

→ A tribute to Charles Dickens’ Reverend Stiggins, whose favourite tipple was pineapple rum → Made by marrying a pineapple-infused distillate with a pineapple fruit infusion → Double the pineapple, double the fun!

→ The first Japanese gin to be distilled, blended and bottled in Kyoto → Its name means ‘beauty of the seasons’ → Created with yellow yuzu, hinoki wood chips, bamboo, gyokuro tea and green sansho berries

➃ Silent Pool

➅ Madre

Rare Citrus Gin

70cl | 43% VOL | £37

Mezcal

Lemon sherbet / Seville orange / Marmalade

→ A gin that uses some of the world’s rarest and most intriguing citrus → Counts Buddha's hand, natsudaidai and green Seville oranges among its unique botanicals → Best served with tonic over plenty of ice, garnished with a juicy wedge of grapefruit

➃

20cl | 45% VOL | £26

Mint / Herbs / Aromatic smoke

→ Produced by the Morales family in Oaxaca → Uses a combination of Espadín and Cuishe agave → The perfect little bottle for beach barbecues

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Customer Favourites Light / Floral

15 Year Old

70cl | 46% VOL | £80

12 Year Old

➂ Loch Lomond 14 Year Old

Sultanas / Honey / Apple

“A bright, fresh and crisp approach to Highland whisky. Apples, pears and elderflower in a bottle. So welcoming and natural in everything it does.”

➀

Green apple / Grapefruit / Vanilla

Matured in American oak and finished in lightly toasted French oak from the Limousin region for up to 12 months, Loch Lomond 14 Year Old delivers the unmistakeable fruit character found in the distillery's single malt.

Matured in American oak, ex-bourbon and double-fired American oak casks, this 12-year-old whisky has an elegant complexity and warmth – the defining expression of Balblair Distillery.

→ Phil, The Whisky Shop Manchester

Apple / Dates / Caramel

An older sibling to Balblair 12 Year Old, this whisky perfectly balances unique distillery character with smoothness of age, thanks to a flavour profile of tropical fruits and a texture of melted chocolate. Gorgeous.

70cl | 46% VOL | £55

➀ Balblair

70cl | 46% VOL | £52

➁ Balblair

➁

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➃ anCnoc

➆ Bunnahabhain 12 Year Old

12 Year Old

70cl | 40% VOL | £38

70cl | 46.3% VOL | £47

Banana / Butterscotch / Custard

Dried fruit / Honey / Chestnut

Produced at Knockdhu Distillery in the Highlands and matured in a combination of second-fill American oak, ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks, this is an award-winning expression that should sit proudly on your spirits shelf.

Bunnahabhain's whiskies are quite distinct from other single malts of the Islay region, in that the majority are produced with unpeated malted barley. Toast the versatility of Islay with this superb 12-year-old expression that showcases Bunnahabhain's ‘fruit and nut’ signature style.

➄ Fettercairn

➇ Auchroisk 10 Year Old

12 Year Old

70cl | 40% VOL | £47

70cl | 43% VOL | £48

Nectarine / Ginger / Pear

A special whisky due to being the only official bottling of Auchroisk Distilllery. This 10-year-old expression is part of Diageo’s Flora & Fauna series – an ode to superb single malts from lesser-known distilleries which normally provide liquid for blends.

Hailing from the village of the same name, this whisky is a masterclass in fruity Highland flavour – perfectly embodying Fettercairn’s exotic fruit-driven character. It has been matured in American oak ex-bourbon for its full 12 years in cask. Simply delicious.

➅ Glen Moray

➆

18 Year Old

70cl | 47.2% VOL | £85

Heather / Honey / Fudge

A Speyside single malt from the Cairngorms, this expression is aged in the finest American oak barrels, specially selected to emphasise the whisky’s smooth character. It is a whisky that is celebrated for its long and mellow finish.

➂

Orange zest / Cut grass / Roasted nuts

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Customer Favourites Rich / Sweet

The Twelve

70cl | 46% VOL | £50

12 Year Old

Honey / Maraschino cherries / Cocoa

Part of the refreshed core line-up from Benriach, this new recipe brings intensified notes of baked fruits and a rich smoothness, thanks to time spent in a combination of sherry casks, bourbon barrels and port pipes under the expert care of Master Blender Rachel Barrie.

➂ The Glenrothes 12 Year Old

70cl | 40% VOL | £45

➀ The Dalmore 70cl | 40% VOL | £50

➁ Benriach

Vanilla / Cinnamon / Orange zest

Part of the Soleo Collection from The Glenrothes Distillery in Speyside, this 12-year-old single malt is described as the hero of the range and is matured entirely in sherry-seasoned oak casks. Bottled at 40% VOL, this is both an easy drinking and delicious dram.

Cocoa / Marmalade / Milk chocolate

➂

This single malt is a Highland triumph: full-bodied, thick and sweet. A popular dram, known for its long and spicy finish, and a beautifully rich expression for its 12 years of age.

“All my favourite things, beautifully bottled! Dark chocolate, oranges, plums and marzipan, with a touch of spice: what’s not to love? Just sit back and savour each mouthful.” → Vicki, The Whisky Shop Guildford

➀

➁

➃

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➃ Old Pulteney

➆ The Dalmore

15 Year Old

70cl | 46% VOL | £75

15 Year Old

70cl | 40% VOL | £72

Honey / Salted caramel / Fruitcake

Terry's Chocolate Orange / Fruitcake / Sherry

An incredibly balanced single malt that has spent time in American oak ex-bourbon casks and finished in Spanish oak. Spice and sweetness combine with the refreshing coastal notes expected from this seaside distillery to create a delicious dram.

An older sibling to The Dalmore 12 Year Old, this expression has been matured for 15 years in a trio of ex-sherry casks, as well as ex-bourbon barrels. It offers all of the sweetness and spice expected of The Dalmore.

➄ Arran

➇ Blair Athol

10 Year Old

70cl | 46% VOL | £45

12 Year Old

70cl | 43% VOL | £52

Apple / Cinnamon / Digestive biscuits

Walnut / Cinnamon / Fruitcake

An award-winning whisky that captures the fresh and unique style of this island distillery.

A worthy addition to your whisky cabinet, this expression offers a fantastic introduction to the flavours from Arran.

Established in 1798, Blair Athol is one of Scotland’s oldest working distilleries and is famed for producing the signature malt for Bell’s blend. A delicious dram, this is one of only a few official bottlings ever released from the distillery.

➅ Benrinnes

➈ Loch Lomond 18 Year Old

15 Year Old

70cl | 43% VOL | £52

70cl | 46% VOL | £78

Toffee apple / Sherry / Malted biscuit

This 15-year-old Speyside single malt is partially triple distilled at Benrinnes Distillery, resulting in a sultry expression that packs in plenty of body and character. It is another bottling from Diageo’s Flora & Fauna series, highlighting the versatility of distilleries producing liquid for blends.

➄

➅

➆

Apple / Honey / Tobacco

Matured in the finest oak barrels chosen by former Master Cooper Tommy Wallace, time has allowed this 18-year-old Highland malt to take on the sweeter character of the wood, while a subtle hint of peat and smoke ensures a balanced finish.

➇

➈

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➁ Oban

Customer Favourites Rich / Sweet

Distillers Edition

70cl | 43% VOL | £79

A distillery renowned for its innovation, each expression of Oban Distillers Edition undergoes double maturation in casks that have previously held a fortified wine. This edition has been finished in a montilla fino cask – a rare type of finish and a complete treat!

➂ Glenfiddich Project XX

70cl | 47% VOL | £50

➀ Glen Scotia Victoriana

70cl | 54.2% VOL | £73

Milk chocolate / Sea salt / Christmas cake

Cinnamon / Almond / Pear drops

The result of one of the most ambitious malt experiments undertaken by Glenfiddich, bringing together 20 whisky experts from around the world and combining each of their selected Glenfiddich casks. The result is something spectacular.

Creme brûlée / Cocoa / Caramel

Inspired by the whiskies produced at Glen Scotia Distillery in the Victorian times, this expression has been relaunched at a slightly higher strength and bottled straight from cask to better reflect how historic expressions of this era would have tasted. Delicious!

“If this is how whisky tasted in the Victorian era, then I was born in the wrong century. Glen Scotia Victoriana has everything I love in a whisky: it’s rich, robust, sweet and has plenty of body. One for posterity.” → Natalie, The W Club Manager

➀

➁

➂

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➃ Glen Moray

➆ Benromach

15 Year Old

10 Year Old

70cl | 40% VOL | £55

Dark chocolate / Sherry / Fudge

70cl | 43% VOL | £39.99

Green apple / Toffee / Black cherry

Unquestionably Speyside in character, this expression showcases a carefully matured, complex and well-rounded whisky, aged in a combination of sherry and American oak casks, and influenced by Elgin’s unique climate.

Produced at the family-owned distillery in Forres and aged for a decade in first-fill bourbon and sherry casks, Benromach’s 10-year-old is a dram that is unmistakably Speyside in flavour. It is the proud winner of multiple gold awards.

➄ Highland Park

➇ The GlenDronach

18 Year Old Viking Pride

70cl | 43% VOL | £110

12 Year Old

Fruit salad / Cinnamon / Allspice

Named ‘Best Spirit in the World’ in the Spirit Journal on two separate occasions, this 18-year-old offers the perfect balance of harmony, complexity and refinement. A consistently excellent malt from Orkney's Highland Park Distillery.

70cl | 43% VOL | £49

Marmalade / Sherry / Raisins

An award-winning expression from the distillery famous for its richly sherried offering – this 12-year-old is a firm favourite amongst our customers. Matured in both Pedro Ximénez and oloroso sherry casks, this expression offers an indulgent portfolio of flavours.

➅ The GlenDronach

18 Year Old Allardice

70cl | 46% VOL | £120

Stewed fruit / Walnut / Cherry

An ode to James Allardice who founded the distillery and produced the very first drops of “guid Glendronach,” this expression has been matured in the finest oloroso sherry casks.

Rich and dark, it offers remarkable depth of flavour.

➃

➄

➅

➆

➇

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

Customer Favourites Smoky ➀ Ailsa Bay 1.2

70cl | 48.9% VOL | £60

Vanilla / Shortbread / Campfire ember

Ailsa Bay 1.2 has undergone the distillery’s signature micro-maturation process – rapid maturation in ex-bourbon casks before ageing in virgin American oak casks for several years – achieving a single malt that’s even sweeter and smokier than its predecessor. Beautiful.

“A light yet complex single malt, distilled against the beautiful backdrop of Ailsa Craig. Savour sweet smoke, candied citrus and light peat on the palate, before an explosive taste of truffle in the finish.” → Lucas, The Whisky Shop Paris

➀

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➁ Talisker

➃ Jura

Port Ruighe

70cl | 45.8% VOL | £55

18 Year Old

Cocoa / Plum / Spicy pepper

Rich and fruity, Talisker have taken their Isle of Skye malt and finished it in ruby port casks to achieve this delicious dram. 'Port Ruighe' (pronounced 'Portree') is the Gaelic spelling of the once bustling trading port on Skye.

➂ Balvenie

The Week of Peat 14 Year Old

70cl | 48.3% VOL | £65

Peat smoke / Butterscotch / Honey

The second release in The Balvenie Stories series, this expression was created by Distillery Manager Ian Millar who was inspired by a trip to Islay. For one week each year, Balvenie distil peated malt, introducing fragrant notes of smoke to the distillery’s classic Speyside character.

➁

70cl | 44% VOL | £75

Dark chocolate / Coffee / Blackcurrant jam

Matured for 18 years in American white oak ex-bourbon barrels and enriched by Premier Grand Cru Classé red wine barriques, this expertly crafted single malt is a unique island whisky that has truly come of age.

➄ Caol Ila

Distillers Edition

70cl | 43% VOL | £75

Malted biscuit / Peat smoke / Cinnamon

A sweeter expression from the Islay distillery due to time spent in moscatel casks at the end of its maturation process. The result is a delicious layer of sweetness and dried fruits on top of classic Caol Ila peat smoke.

➃

➄ ➂

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

Customer Favourites International 12 Year Old

Almond / Currant jam / Dark chocolate

Triple distilled at Northern Ireland's Bushmills Distillery, this 16-year-old Irish single malt has been matured in oloroso sherry casks and bourbon-seasoned casks for just over 15 years, before being finished in port pipes for nine months to impart sweet, jammy flavours.

➂ Green Spot Vanilla / Papaya / Chocolate

Ginger / Marzipan / Dried fruit

“Sweet and spicy – this 12-yearold is packed with all sorts of delicious stuff. Orange marmalade, thickly spread on toast, followed by shortbread and lashings of ginger spice. A favourite.”

➀

70cl | 40% VOL | £75

Produced at Midleton Distillery in Ireland and comprised of pot still whiskeys aged between seven and ten years old, this whiskey was once only available to buy at one grocery store in Dublin. It is now a whiskey held to high acclaim across the world – and rightly so!

This 12-year-old expression is an Irish single pot still whiskey full of aroma and flavour, praised by critics worldwide. Matured in ex-bourbon barrels and oloroso sherry casks, you can thank the latter for giving this whiskey its signature Christmas cake flavour.

→ Adam, The Whisky Shop Piccadilly

16 Year Old

70cl | 40% VOL | £46

➀ Redbreast 70cl | 40% VOL | £45

➁ Bushmills

➁ ➂

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➃ Maker’s 46 70cl | 47% VOL | £45

➅ Roe & Co Nutmeg / Mulled wine / Caramel

70cl | 45% VOL | £35

Pear drops / Allspice / Vanilla

Filled into a barrel partly made of seared French oak staves, this stunning Kentucky bourbon packs plenty of spice and is named after the final recipe chosen by its creators – recipe number 46.

Developed by Diageo Master Blender Caroline Martin, this is a whiskey that can be enjoyed neat or hold its own in a cocktail. A tasty blend of malt and grain from various distilleries across Ireland, this expression has been matured predominantly in first-fill bourbon casks.

➄ Bulleit Bourbon

➆ Tullamore D.E.W.

10 Year Old

70cl | 45.6% VOL | £49

14 Year Old

Apricot / Vanilla / Cinnamon

A top-notch Kentucky bourbon that has spent a decade in oak. With a mash bill of 68% corn, 28% rye and 4% malted barley, this is the go-to bourbon for a rich balance of creaminess and spice.

➃

70cl | 41.3% VOL | £57

Vanilla / Honey / Apple

A delicious dram that has been triple distilled in true Irish tradition. Aged for up to 14 years in ex-bourbon barrels, this expression was then finished for a minimum of six months in a range of different casks, including oloroso sherry butts, port pipes and Madeira drums.

➅ ➆ ➄

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Whiskeria Summer 2021

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Expert Tasting

Expert Tasting :

Gleann Mór Two single cask exclusives; two mystery malts.

Charles MacLean puts his taste buds to the test, hinting at the liquid inside these limited edition bottlings from Gleann Mór’s Rare Find series.

Gleann Mór Spirits Company is an independent blender and bottler based in Edinburgh. Founded in 2015 in the family kitchen of its owner, Derek Mair, the company now has its own production facility and offers gins, rums, bourbons, blended malts and blended Scotch, as well as single cask single malts – the last under its Rare Find label.

Some brand owners object to their whiskies being named by independent bottlers, since they do not have any say in the end result. Some make it a condition of the resale of casks that the distillery not be named; a few go so far as to immediately seek injunctions on the release.

So these two old whiskies are ‘mystery malts’, if you like. Let me give you some cryptic clues as to where they might come from…

GLEANN MÓR RARE FIND SPEYSIDE 1982

The Whisky Shop Exclusive This distillery is one of only three distilleries which are still in the ownership of its founding family, although there was a small distillery on the site before it was acquired and renamed by the ancestor of the current owners in 1865.

The distillery is now owned by the seventh and eighth generations of the family.

Previous generations all bore the name, alternatively, ‘John’ or ‘George’, as do the current owners.

The distillery’s first manager, John

Smith, came to them from Glenlivet Distillery. He was reputed to be the best distiller of the day and went on to manage Cragganmore Distillery.

Although it is very different, the distillery’s name translated from Gaelic, is the same, bar one word, to that of Dailuaine Distillery, not far away.

It has the largest stills on Speyside; unusually, they are all direct-fired by gas (with oil as a backup). The character of the spirit is light and fruity, but this gains weight during maturation, mainly in ex-sherry casks.

The company was the first to list a ‘cask strength’ expression in their core range (as early as 1968), at five degrees over proof (60% VOL).

A rival distiller wrote in 1912: “Of all the whiskies malt is king – of all the kings [this mystery distillery] reigns supreme!”

GLEANN MÓR RARE FIND TRANQUILITY 1985

The Whisky Shop Exclusive This malt began to be promoted as a single whisky as late as 1981, using the same London advertising agency, at the same time, as The Macallan. Not sure this would happen today!

The original stills, installed in 1843, came from a gin distillery and have been scrupulously copied ever since. The success of the single malt has led to a steady expansion in capacity since 1980; at the moment there are six pairs of stills, with another pair currently being installed in

a separate stillhouse (to be commissioned this year). It is planned to use these for experimental distillations, under the direction of the company’s famous director of distilling, whisky creation and whisky stocks – the longest job title in the industry!

The said director of distilling, whisky creation and whisky stocks, then known simply as master blender (and formerly distillery manager), was a pioneer of ‘wood finishing’ – maturing in refill American oak casks, then transferring the whisky into casks seasoned with sherry, port, Madeira, wine, etc., for a period of time, in order to add additional layers of flavour. The first was a 1963, released in the late 1980s, but it did not state on the label that it had been finished in ex-sherry casks.

The distillery prides itself on its ‘mineralrich’ process water and the fact that all its product is matured on-site, close to the sea. Yet the flavour of the whisky is neither mineralic nor maritime. This is something of a mystery.

If there is any animal associated with this distillery by its marketing people, it is the giraffe.

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Gleann Mór Rare Find Speyside 1982 The Whisky Shop Exclusive 70cl 39 Year Old Speyside Single Malt

48.7% VOL £375

Pale amber, with excellent beading. The nose opens to reveal exotic dried fruits (mango and angelica root), with a trace of Dundee marmalade (slightly caramelised) and crystalised cane sugar, with a hint of furniture polish. A creamy texture and a sweet taste, followed by a longish herbal finish, with milk chocolate in the aftertaste. Opens up magnificently – tablet toffee – with a fleeting suggestion of struck match.

Gleann Mór Rare Find Tranquillity 1985 The Whisky Shop Exclusive 70cl 35 Year Old Highland Single Malt

42.2% VOL £385

Mid-amber in hue, sun-bleached mahogany. American oak refill cask. Mild and slightly nose-drying, with very light prickle. The top notes are citric (tangerine peel, then fresh orange juice), the mid-notes faintly toffied (butterscotch) on a base of sanded hardwood, with a savoury finish.

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