The Whisky Shop Magazine
Autumn 2018
The Macallan / Bothy Stores / Seasonal Food & Drink Pairings / New Releases
ÂŁ3.49 where sold
No.1 Gentleman An Appointment with Alexander McCall Smith
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Glen Moray
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A New Age of Glen Moray… Glen Moray brand ambassador, Iain Allan, sat down to share a dram with Edinburgh Rugby players WP Nel, Hamish Watson and Scotland Captain, John Barclay. W
Introducing the prestigious Glen Moray Elgin Heritage Collection of three premium Single Malts comprising of their 12, 15 and 18 year old whiskies. Carefully matured in the finest American oak casks, the 12 and 18 year olds marry rich summer fruits with mellow vanilla sweetness. Adding diversity to the range, the 15 year old brings together two distinct cask styles – sherry and American oak – under the watchful eye of Master Distiller, Graham Coull. The result is a complex whisky with a hint of spice that boasts dried fruits and rich dark chocolate.
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As Global Brand Ambassador can you tell us a little about you, your role, and how you became involved with whisky and Glen Moray? In my role as brand ambassador I see my job as to inform and educate people around the brand of Glen Moray; this can be the process around its production, the history of the distillery, or just about Scotch in general. Hopefully through this we can introduce new people into the wonderful world of whisky. I discovered whisky at a young age – being brought up in Speyside I was always surrounded by these wonderful world-renowned brands and my dad was always a single malt drinker too, so my interested was piqued early on. At university I worked part time at a wines and spirits store so was able to further my learning. After graduation I started working at a distillery in 2002, which led me to the job at Glen Moray in 2005 and the rest, as they say, is history! Can you tell us what makes these particular whiskies so different from the core Glen Moray range? For me, this range is perfectly named as
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‘Heritage’ as these showcase the more traditional style of Glen Moray. The 12 year old, with its sweet and spice elegance, is Speyside in a glass and will be a pleasure to anyone who enjoys a quality single malt whisky. The 15 year old, for me, represents the sweetest Glen Moray within the range, the combination of the sherry casks and American oak casks combine to give the drinker a whisky which is full of creamy vanilla and chocolatey flavours. The 18 year old is a whisky which shows off the distillery’s versatility, taking a new approach for Glen Moray in that it is non-chill filtered and bottled at a higher strength. This whisky is quite majestic in its ability to combine richer full-on flavours with a smoothness expected from a whisky of this age. What makes each of the Heritage Range so special? I think the fact that you have such a variation in style through the three expressions that still manage to anchor themselves firmly within the traditional character sought after by Glen Moray drinkers. It means this range will
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appeal to regular drinkers of Glen Moray but small ‘tweaks’ mean that there is now something to interest those who have maybe overlooked Glen Moray in the past. As Glen Moray heads into its second year of the Edinburgh Rugby partnership, what parallels do you see between Whisky and Rugby? Much like a rugby team, these bottlings are the product of a team effort. Each cask selected for the bottling has to play a part in ensuring that the final product performs to the standard expected, not only of Glen Moray, but from a Single Malt Scotch Whisky as a whole. I think the relationship between the two also extends to the fact that nothing is more enjoyable than watching a game of rugby with a group of friends whilst sharing a glass or two of whisky… Either to celebrate a win, or commiserate in a loss!
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As I see it…
“The opening of the new Macallan Distillery signals the sheer power and scale of this brand that was once the darling of just a few single malt drinkers in the UK.”
The Value of Good Whisky Ian P. Bankier, Chairman of The Whisky Shop, muses on high value whiskies and their wider market impact.
J Not much more than 20 years ago The Macallan was a modestly successful, UK-centric, single malt brand. It had a loyal following, being considered a little better than its peers by the then small but growing community of single malt drinkers. Within the Scotch industry, its casks were highly sought after by blenders. Its chief competitor was Glenmorangie, a brand of similar size and reach. Glenfiddich was on another level altogether, being an internationally renowned brand. On 22nd May this year The Macallan officially opened a new state-of-the-art distillery on the site of the existing one at a whopping build cost of £140m. According to its owners, Edrington Group, “Macallan is the leading international single malt by value and enjoys leading positions in some of the world’s most significant markets.” Without doubt the opening of the distillery has been a defining moment for The Macallan, as it signals the sheer power and scale of this brand that was once the darling of just a few single malt drinkers in the UK. The stand out feature of The Macallan is the escalating value of its old and rare bottles. Here in the UK practically everything released is on allocation and prices of the gems are counted in thousands of pounds per bottle. This year, the distillery will release a 72 year
old malt in beautiful Lalique decanters; this won’t be cheap, yet there will be a mad dash of willing buyers hoping to secure one. And, in the second hand auction market, two 1926 Macallans achieved a hammer price of over $1.2m. These are astonishing facts when you consider how short the history is, as I have outlined above. What impact does this have on the bread and butter end of single malt drinking? As I see it, whilst the gap in perceived value between a good Highland malt and a rare collectors item has become highly distended, it endorses what I have believed and preached for a long time. That is, that Scotch Malt whisky – the stuff you drink not collect – is excellent value for money. When you look at the prices that many other spirits now command and then glance at the single malt whisky section, the price gap is surprisingly small. Indeed if you look across at wine prices and calculate on the cost per glass, versus the cost per dram, single malts look good. Although it behoves the owners of these great and precious single malt marques to keep a watchful eye on the effervescent prices of rare and limited releases, I don’t believe that there is cause for alarm. That is because a drinking malt and a collector’s item are, in reality, different things acquired for different reasons.
It’s a fact of life today that there is a worldwide interest in collecting and investing in rare wines, spirits and whiskies. Brands, such as The Macallan, rightfully belong in that category and I don’t see the pent up interest in this dissipating any tine soon.
Slàinte Ian P Bankier, Executive Chairman,
Ground Breaking: The Macallan Distillery Visit
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Competition
Win! A bottle each of this season’s Mixing It Up whiskies. This autumn we’re giving away four full sized bottles of whisky to one lucky winner. Simply answer the question below to get your hands on a bottle each of Caol Ila Distiller’s Edition, Talisker 10 Year Old, Auchroisk 10 Year Old and Benrinnes 15 Year Old. To enter, simply tell us: Our ‘Hair O’ The Dug’ cocktail using Talisker 10 Year Old is a Scotch take on which classic drink? Answers should be emailed to: competition@whiskyshop.com Please include your full name and your answer.
Terms & Conditions The winners will be selected from all entries via the email address stated above by midnight on Friday 30th November 2018. The judge’s decision will be final. The competition is not open to employees of The Whisky Shop Ltd. All normal competition rules apply. UK entrants must be 18 years old or over to apply. International entrants must be of legal drinking age in their country of residence.
Delicious Autumn Whisky Food Pairings Mixing It Up
➛ 50 –– produced by Ascot Publishing Limited PO Box 7415 Glasgow G51 9BR –– contact enquiries@whiskyshop.com
–– commissioning editor GlenKeir Whiskies Limited –– executive producer Claire Daisley claire@whiskyshop.com 0141 427 2919 –– executive chairman Ian P Bankier ipb@whiskyshop.com –– feature writers Brian Wilson Charles MacLean Gavin D Smith Claire Bell –– product photography Subliminal Creative 01236 734923
–– creative direction a visual agency emlyn@avisualagency.com –– feature photography Brian Sweeney Christina Kernohan –– photo assistants Cat Thomson –– drinks stylist Meredith Wilkie –– illustration Francesca Waddell Hrafnhildur Halldorsdottir Sean Mulvenna
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Prices effective 31 January 2018.
THE WHISKY SHOP. Opinions expressed
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in WHISKERIA are not necessarily those of
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Glenkeir Whiskies Limited. Statements made and opinions expressed are done so in good faith, but shall not be relied upon by the reader. This publication is the copyright of the publisher, ASCOT PUBLISHING LIMITED, and no part of it may be reproduced without their prior consent in writing. No responsibility is taken for the advertising material contained herein. © ASCOT PUBLISHING LIMITED.
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Contributors
Claire Bell
Brian Wilson
Formerly an MP, Brian held several Government Ministerial posts during his political career. He lives on the Isle of Lewis, from where he pursues various business interests, notably in the energy sector. He also led the regeneration of the Harris Tweed industry and is currently Chairman of Harris Tweed Hebrides Ltd. His first love was writing and he continues to write books as well as opinion pieces for national newspapers.
A Time in History Winston’s Water of Life?
Claire Bell has written on travel for Time Magazine, The Herald, The Times, The Guardian and Wanderlust. A confirmed nomad, Claire lives between Glasgow, France and her native South Africa where she co-runs the dialogue collective Consciousness Café. Global adventure or a stay on British soil, she is a dab hand at finding places you’ll want to visit.
Travel See Scotland Differently
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Gavin D Smith
Gavin is one of the world’s most prolific and respected whisky writers. He’s regularly published in a range of top magazines and has written more than a dozen books on whisky, while co-authoring many more. He is also responsible for editing and releasing the latest version of Michael Jackson’s seminal whisky publication, The Malt Whisky Companion.
Distillery Visit The Macallan
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Charles MacLean
Charles has published fourteen Scotch whisky books to date, including the standard work on whisky brands, Scotch Whisky, and the leading book on its subject, Malt Whisky, both of which were short-listed for Glenfiddich awards. He was also script advisor for Ken Loach’s 2012 film The Angels’ Share and subsequently played the part of the whisky expert in the film (which he claims to be his biggest career highlight to date).
New Releases Autumn 2018
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Expert Tasting Talisker / The Macallan
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GO AGAINST THE GRAIN. Handcrafted and casked in seven different French and American oak barrels, Jura Seven Wood features fruity, almost tropical notes and a light licorice finish you won’t find in any other whisky. If you’re ready to branch out, give this a try. For more from our island, follow @jurawhiskyus. Please enjoy responsibly.
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Contents
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Short List New Releases | Autumn 2018 A Time in History | Winston’s Water of Life? Travel | See Scotland Differently My Craft | Bothy Stores Distillery Visit | The Macallan Mixing It Up | A Seasonal Food & Drink Pairing My Whiskeria | Alexander McCall Smith The Whisky Shop Section Dear Uncle Ether Expert Tasting | Talisker / The Macallan
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Autumn Inspiration Treat yourself to something a little different with our favourite finds for the season
eteaket Isle of Harris Gin Tea — £10 | whiskyshop.com
Putting the Tea in G&T: eteaket’s Isle of Harris Gin Tea is made with the same botanicals the Isle of Harris Distillers use in their incredible gin, including sugar kelp which is hand-dived in the seas of the Outer Hebrides. This is a tea blend like no other which is great as a hot tea as well as a delicious cold brew, and unsurprisingly mixes well with gin to make a great tea cocktail.
eteaket Tomatin Whisky Tea — £9 | whiskyshop.com
Raise a teacup to Tomatin Whisky Tea! Rich in heritage, tradition and craftsmanship, whisky and tea are time-honoured beverages that have both forged strong identities throughout the years. The UK’s leading leaf tea experts, eteaket, have joined forces with the renowned Tomatin Distillery to create Tomatin Whisky Tea – the first ever tea to be barrel-aged in Europe! This black tea – a blend of Assam, Ceylon and Fujian – absorbs the complex smoky, fruity aromas that elevate the flavour, without overwhelming the tea leaves themselves. Try it for yourself today.
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The Chaumer Abide —
FROM £180 / £220 PEAK* | thechaumer.com Set in the heart of the Edinburgh New Town, The Chaumer Abide is a masterclass in timeless luxury with comfort and thoughtful details at the fore. A spacious king size bedroom suite with shower room, The Abide boasts antique furnishings plus textiles designed by Timorous Beasties and woven by Bute Fabrics, and drapery created by Stewart Christie & Co. Abide has its own main door entrance so you can be as independent as you wish. The Chaumer team will be available to greet you during working hours, and help you discover and enjoy their gorgeous city, and you’ll also have access to the residents-only Queen Street Gardens. The lovingly restored Georgian suite offers an elegant retreat from the bustle of the city, made all the more restful as you can luxuriate in all day/evening room service from The Chaumer Teahouse. *other services available, including, ironing, tailoring, breakfast and supper.
Blue Water Holidays Luxury Scottish Whisky Cruise — from £5630pp | bluewaterholidays.com
Visit the finest whisky distilleries in the Northern and Western Isles of Scotland on a unique 7-night all-inclusive cruise from Invergordon to Oban on luxurious small ship Hebridean Princess, previously chartered by HRH Queen Elizabeth II. Sample artisanal whiskies and visit distilleries including Old Pulteney in Wick, Highland Park in the Orkneys and Tobermory Distillery on Mull, one of the oldest commercial distilleries. Departs 5 August 2019.
Handcrafted to be enjoyed responsibly.
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Highland Park 2006 The W Club Exclusive Kilchoman 2007 The Whisky Shop Exclusive The Loch Fyne The Living Cask Batch 6 Loch Lomond 1999 Paul Lawrie Autograph Edition The Lakes Distillery Steel Bonnets Bowmore 27 Year Old Port Cask Finish The GlenDronach Cask Strength Batch 7 Balvenie Tun 1509 Batch 5 Highland Park The Light The Tweeddale The Evolution 28 Year Old Jura One For You
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Diageo Special Releases 2018: Carsebridge 48 Year Old Caol Ila 15 Year Old Unpeated Caol Ila 35 Year Old Inchgower 27 Year Old Lagavulin12 Year Old Oban 21 Year Old Pittyvaich 28 Year Old The Singleton of Glen Ord 14 Year Old Talisker 8 Year Old
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Highland Park 2006
J Highland Park is one of only seven distilleries which malt (a proportion of) their own barley in traditional, labour intensive floor maltings, drying around 20% of its malt requirement over locally ‘won’ peat. This heavily peated malt is then mixed with unpeated malt, imported from the mainland, to create the exact level of peaty character required by the distillery. The composition of the peat and where it comes from plays an important role in the flavour of the mature whisky. Some years ago, the distillery’s owner, Edrington, experimented with buying the malt ready peated to the distillery’s precise phenolic specification, but this was not a success: the resulting spirit did not have Highland Park’s defining character. Orkney peat is different from Islay or Aberdeenshire peat, on account of the islands’ climate and the grasses and sedges which compress over thousands of years to create the peat. What’s more, Highland Park uses a mix of peats cut at various depths. Orcadians have different words for their peats: the top, rooty, layer is called 'fog'; the next 'yarphie'; the dense, lowest layer, 'moss'. The nature of the peat and the smoke it creates has always been something of an obsession at the distillery. The first ‘whisky tourist’, Alfred Barnard, remarked in 1886: "The celebrated Orkney peat is the only fuel used in drying, with the exception of a little heather... We noticed a peculiarly shaped timber building, which our guide informed us is called the 'Heather House'. Here heather is stored, which has been gathered in the month of July, when the blossom is fully set. It is carefully cut off near the root, and tied into small bundles of about a dozen branches. One or two of these faggots are used with the peat in drying the malt, and imparts a delicate flavour of its own to the malt, rendering Highland Park Whisky unlike any other made in the Kingdom." Although heather is no longer burned in the kiln, Highland Park is still unlike any other malt whisky. This single cask expression has been selected by and bottled for members of The Whisky Shop’s exclusive membership programme, The W Club, which currently has over 2,500 members. It has been drawn from cask #2132, a first refill American oak sherry puncheon, at 67%ABV.
The W Club Exclusive Single Cask Island Single Malt
70CL
Age: 11 Year Old
£95
Vol: 67%
Polished chestnut in colour (conkers), the initial nosefeel is very prickly. A dense, fruity top note (cherry sweets?), with light wood notes, and a subtle thread of fragrant smoke in the back. Water opens it up, with maritime scents, marzipan, dessicated coconut and dry peat. At natural strength the taste starts sweet and fruity, then dries dramatically; water tames it and makes it more accessible.
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…maritime scents, marzipan, dessicated coconut and dry peat.
Autumn 2018
Kilchoman 2007
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The Whisky Shop Exclusive Single Cask Islay Single Malt
70CL
Age: 10 Year Old
£115
Vol: 56.5%
Pale gold in hue with light beading; slightly nose-drying. The aroma is maritime, with sea salt, dry seaweed, warm sand and a thread of peat-smoke tucked in behind. The taste is sweet and salty then smoky, with a spicy finish, especially at reduced strength. A simple and typical expression of the make.
J Kilchoman Distillery, which opened in June 2005, was the brain-child of Anthony Wills, who came from the wine trade and managed a small independent whisky bottling company before establishing one of the smallest distilleries in Scotland within some disused buildings on Rockside Farm on the west coast of Islay. It is very much a family concern: Anthony’s wife, Cathy, was raised on Islay and looks after the distillery’s excellent café; their sons Peter, James and George are familiar faces at whisky shows in Europe, promoting the Kilchoman malts. The site was chosen on account of the excellence of the barley grown on Rockside Farm – reckoned to be the best on Islay. The distillery has its own maltings, and this was expanded last year, enabling production of between 25 and 30 per cent of its requirements (the rest comes from Port Ellen Maltings). All stages of production and maturation take place in the converted farm buildings, and the whisky is bottled there as well, allowing Kilchoman to call itself ‘Islay’s Farm Distillery – from barley to bottle’. The brand’s success has also led to expansion in other areas of production, culminating in the creation of a new still house and mash house in an adjacent building, which will be a mirror image of the original. If all goes according to plan, the extended distillery should open later this year. This single cask has been bottled exclusively for The Whisky Shop. It is an American Standard Barrel (ASB), of 200 litre capacity, filled in July 2007 and has yielded 238 bottles at 56.5%Vol, bottled on site without tinting or chill-filtration.
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… sea salt, dry seaweed, warm sand and a thread of peat-smoke
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New Releases
The Loch Fyne The Living Cask Batch 6 Blended Malt Age: –
J The Loch Fyne The Living Cask first appeared in 1999 – a continually changing blended malt, inspired by the renowned oenophile Professor George Saintsbury, who wrote in his Notes on a Cellar Book (1920): “…The more excellent way – formerly practised by all persons of some sense and some means north of the Tweed – is to establish a cask… fill it up with good and drinkable whisky… stand it up on end, tap it half way down or even a little higher, and, when you get to or near the tap, fill it up again with whisky fit to drink, but not too old. “You thus establish what is called in the case of sherry a ‘solera’, in which the constantly changing character of the old constituents doctors the new accessions, and in which these in turn freshen and strengthen the old.” It is an ingenious idea. Not only will the whisky continue to mature and change in the cask, but it provides the lucky owner with the opportunity to create their own, unique, blended malt, tailored to their own taste, and to vary the flavour so as never to become bored with one flavour profile. A common drawback reported by owners of casks of single malt is that, frankly, they become weary of drinking the same whisky all the time – no matter how good that whisky might be. The flavour profile of this Batch 6 owes a lot to European oak, ex-sherry maturation to start with, but soon becomes more maritime and lightly smoky. Earlier batches were peaty (except Batch 5), and I am told that The Living Casks still hold small quantities of the original whiskies filled in 1999. Those who visit The Loch Fyne workshop in Inveraray can taste each batch and write their notes in a tasting ledger kept there for the purpose.
50CL Vol: 43.6%
£45
Mid-gold with tawny lights. The top note is of buttered fruit loaf, with sultanas predominating and a hint of allspice, becoming more maritime; beneath this is a trace of dry Madeira and, tucked in at the back, a thread of smoke. The texture is light, the taste distinctly salty, after a brief sweet start, with a twist of chilli pepper in the warming maritime finish.
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…dry Madeira and, tucked in at the back, a thread of smoke.
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Loch Lomond 1999 Paul Lawrie Autograph Edition Highland Single Malt Age: –
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70CL Vol: 50.8%
£150
Pale gold in colour, with moderate beading, the aroma combines fruit (peach, apple), nuts (hazel) and cereal (rice pudding), on a base of coated card, with a hint of vanilla. The taste is sweet and spicy, with whin flowers (light coconut) in the aftertaste.
J The Loch Lomond Group has signed a fiveyear agreement with the Royal & Ancient Golf Club to become the official spirit of The Open golf championships, the first of which took place at Carnoustie in July. In addition, Paul Lawrie, winner of The Open in 1999, has been signed up as a brand ambassador for Loch Lomond. Over a career spanning more than 30 years, Lawrie competed in more than 600 European Tour events and represented Europe at the Ryder Cup in both 1999 and 2012. I understand he has been working with Loch Lomond’s talented Master Blender, Michael Henry, to create an Autograph Edition of the malt, bearing his name and now available from The Whisky Shop and other specialist stores. Paul Lawrie said: “I’m genuinely thrilled to begin working with the experts at the Loch Lomond Group, who share my passion for arguably two of the country’s most loved exports – golf and whisky – and I’m impressed by how they’ve established themselves in the sport in such a brief period. “In the short term I’m looking forward to developing my Autograph Edition before returning to Carnoustie – a course which is obviously very close to my heart.” [It was here he won The Open in 1999] Colin Matthews, CEO of the Loch Lomond Group, said: “To be able to bring a player of Paul’s calibre and reputation on board really demonstrates the commitment we have to both growing our brands around the world and growing our presence in golf.” The whisky would seem to be predominantly – if not entirely – from American oak refill casks, and has the soft sweetness, fresh-fruitiness, light vanilla and coconut characteristics one would expect from such maturation.
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… a base of coated card, with a hint of vanilla.
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New Releases
The Lakes Distillery Steel Bonnets Hybrid Scotch/English Blended Malt
70CL
Age: –
£65
Vol: 46.6%
J So far as I am aware, this is the first ever ‘hybrid’ English/Scotch whisky, although I was involved two years ago in helping Adelphi (the distinguished indie bottler) to put together what they term a ‘fusion’ of Scotch malt and Japanese malt to honour the memory of Thomas Blake Glover, the Scot who – among many other achievements – founded what became Mitsubishi. Adelphi has since gone on to release successful ‘fusions’ of different Scotch malts with Australian, Indian and Dutch whiskies. As long ago as 2004, Bruichladdich was ‘fused’ with malt from Cooley Distillery in Dundalk to create Celtic Nations (revived by Teeling Distillery, Dublin, as Hybrid Edition 1 in 2012), while Diageo launched Huxley, a blend of Scotch, American and Canadian whiskies, in 2016. The Lakes Distillery has approached the task of blending Scotch with their own English whisky slightly differently. In their press release they say the blend contains “some of the most respected malts from Scotland… matured in a combination of sherry and bourbon casks.” The Lakes Distillery, in Cumbria’s northern Lake District, went into production in December 2014, so their spirit has only just achieved the distinction of being ‘whisky’ – its first, limited, bottling of single malt was released in July. The ‘Steel Bonnets’ were Border reivers, raiders and brigands who populated both sides of the Anglo/Scottish border from the late 13th century to the early 17th century, living by rustling cattle and plundering their neighbours without regard to nationality. They were named ‘steel (or steil) bonnets’ on account of their fondness for a Renaissance cavalry helmet, properly called a burgonet. ‘Reiver’ is an early English word for ‘robber’; The Steel Bonnets is a thorough account to their history and activities by George Macdonald Fraser, author of the Flashman books, who was raised in Carlisle, just south of the Border.
Amber in colour, the nose-feel is mellow, with a hint of spice. The top note is of fruit loaf (malted bread, sultanas, with a pinch of allspice and nutmeg). At full strength the texture is smooth and medium bodied, the taste sweet and very spicy in the finish. A drop of water reduces all these characteristics. Well balanced and easy drinking.
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… malted bread, sultanas, with a pinch of allspice and nutmeg
Autumn 2018
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Bowmore 27 Year Old Port Cask Finish Islay Single Malt Age: 27 Year Old
70CL Vol: 48.3%
£410
Polished rosewood in colour, with rubious lights. Excellent beading for its strength. A mellow nose at natural strength with fruity top-notes (redcurrant jelly, raspberry coulis) on a base of musty wine, liquorice, treacle and tar. A drop of water adds hessian and tablet toffee. Rich and full-bodied, the taste is sweet and salty, dry overall, with big smoke and lingering pepper in the finish.
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…fruity topnotes … on a base of musty wine, liquorice, treacle and tar.
J This is the third and final expression of Bowmore’s Vintner’s Trilogy, a wine-inspired series which explores the flavour development produced by long secondary maturation in top quality ex-wine casks, following the usual maturation in ex-bourbon barrels. The first in the series, Bowmore 18 Year Old Manzanilla, was released late last year and spent its last five years in ex-manzanilla sherry casks. At the same time Bowmore 26 Year Old French Oak Barrique finished in French oak ex-wine barriques for thirteen years was released. And now Bowmore 27 Year Old Port Cask, finished in port pipes for fourteen years, after thirteen years in ex-bourbon, concludes the range. The distillery owners are justifiably proud of their creations, each of which add different layers of flavour to Bowmore’s house style. David Turner, Bowmore’s distillery manager, comments: “The Vintner’s Trilogy is a collection of three liquid gold whiskies which have been meticulously matured over time in our No.1 Vaults. This final offering completes the journey with an exceptional whisky we know people are going to love. The combination of ex-bourbon and port casks has created a unique Bowmore expression that showcases the rich flavour we’re famous for in a completely new way.” Pre-release, one enthusiastic blogger posted: “Part 3 will be the best. I’ve tried it at the distillery, it will be absolutely EPIC!!!” The No.1 Vaults which David Turner refers to are, of course, Bowmore’s pride and joy – the oldest maturation warehouse in Scotland, if we ignore The Vaults beneath the Scotch Malt Whisky Society in Edinburgh, which were built by monks to store wine in the 1100s. Bowmore’s No.1 Vaults was raised in 1779 (or possibly earlier), partly below sealevel. It has immensely thick walls which weep salt water. Might this account for the subtle saltiness often encountered in the whisky?
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The GlenDronach Cask Strength Batch 7 Speyside Single Malt Age: –
70CL Vol: 57.9%
£69
Deep amber, with copper lights, the nose-feel is surprisingly mild and dry overall. The first impression is of dark chocolates filled with cherry liqueur, backed by a suggestion of espresso coffee and macademia nuts on a base of McCowan’s Highland toffee and (at reduced strength) fruit loaf. A smooth texture, but an astringent taste until water is added, when it starts sweet, then dries in the long finish.
J The carton reminds us that ‘natural strength’ [aka ‘cask strength’, typically 100 degrees Proof or 57%ABV] was how whisky was bottled ‘before the turn of the 20th century’. Actually it was ‘before 1916’, when the Prime Minister, David Lloyd George’s Central Control Board, Liquor Traffic, required dilution to 75 degrees Proof (42%ABV), then 70 degrees (40%ABV) next year. The Scotch whisky industry was furious. In a memorandum to the Board, the Wine & Spirits Brand Association wrote: “Compulsory dilution to a degree that would rob high class brands of their distinctive characteristics, and practically reduce all brands to a common level of mediocrity, would obviously be to the advantage of those whose aim is cheapness rather than quality.” Peter Mackie, owner of Lagavulin and Craigellachie Distilleries and of White Horse, had earlier commented about Lloyd George’s ‘People’s Budget’, with typical vigour, as: “that of a faddist and a crank… But what can you expect of a Welsh country solicitor being placed, without any commercial training, as Chancellor of the Exchequer in a large country like this”! There were two reasons for the industry’s dismay. First, before the days of chill-filtration – which I think was discovered in the 1970s reduction in strength tended to make the whisky cloudy, which did not appeal to consumers. Second, as the aforementioned Spirits Brand Association also wrote: it took years to produce a proprietary brand, and the ‘goodwill’ of its devotees “would be entirely destroyed if proprietary whiskies were to be so reduced as to lose their individual characteristics and qualities.”
Today’s enlightened consumers are not concerned about the whisky going slightly hazy – on the contrary, ‘high strength, no chill-filtration’ are considered selling points – although, as the carton of this GlenDronach Cask Strength recommends, “add a drop or two of water to reveal a cornucopia of flavour”. As suits the spirit of GlenDronach, it has been matured in ex-Oloroso and ex-Pedro Ximénez sherry casks.
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… cherry liqueur, backed by a suggestion of espresso coffee
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Balvenie Tun 1509 Batch 5 Speyside Single Malt Age: –
J Balvenie’s Tun 1509 series was introduced in 2014 to replace the company’s earlier Tun 1402, which began as a distillery exclusive in 2010 and sold out immediately. For both series, David Stewart, Balvenie’s Honorary Malt Master, later joined by Brian Kinsman, current Malt Master, selected a number of casks of varying volumes, strengths and ages – nothing younger than 22 years, in the 1402 series; my guess is the same for the Tun 1509 series. They then disgorged the casks into a large marrying tun – hence the name. There is no significance in the number: tuns 1402 and 1509 were simply the most convenient. To create the fifth batch of Tun 1509, they chose 29 casks – 10 ex-bourbon American oak hogsheads and barrels, three American oak refill casks, eight sherry hogsheads, eight European oak sherry butts, and two ex-sherry hogsheads. All were transferred to tun 1509, which sits in Balvenie’s famous Warehouse 24, for several months to marry before bottling. Marrying allows the different whiskies to mingle together and create a unique expression of The Balvenie which is – as blenders say – ‘greater than the sum of its constituent parts.’ Every bottle of Tun 1509 Batch 5 comes with an A3 poster with simple flavour wheels illustrating the Master Blenders’ assessment of the flavour profile of each cask under the simple headings ‘spice’, ‘oak’, ‘sweet’ and ‘delicate’ (i.e. fruity/floral). The carton is decorated with a similar assessment of the finished whisky, and the reverse of the tube lists all the casks used, by cask and wood type, and the flavour values ascribed to each. This is magnificently geeky! It allows us malt enthusiasts to explore in depth the flavour of the whisky and to compare notes with the Masters! I know of no other malt which provides such detailed information about the cask types which have gone into a vatting. Bravo, Balvenie!
70CL Vol: 52.6%
£220
Deep amber, with excellent beading. Rich and fruity, with plums and apricots, and a squeeze of orange zest, on a base of planed hardwood. At full strength the taste is sweet then dry, with a suggestion of Oloroso sherry. A drop of water softens the effect and adds a hint of fudge and dry sherry. The finish is now more spicy, with a lingering taste of fruit loaf.
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… a squeeze of orange zest, on a base of planed hardwood
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Highland Park The Light Island Single Malt Age: 17 Year Old
70CL Vol: 52.9%
£190
Pale amber in hue – leonine – with good beading. The nose is fresh and mineralic, with sea salt and scents of aromatherapy oil, gradually developing notes of toffee. A drop of water raises a whiff of dry peat or an extinguished peat fire. The texture is oily and taste is lightly sweet, then salty, with sack-cloth and smoke in the finish. Vigorous.
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… mineralic, with sea salt and scents of aromatherapy oil
J This is a worthy companion to The Dark, released by Highland Park in December last year. Together they celebrate Orkney’s contrasting seasons and showcase what the distiller describes as “the intense balance of our whisky”, although I am not sure a balance can be ‘intense’… At nearly 58 degrees North – level with Anchorage, Alaska – there is no darkness during the summer months, merely a fading of the light, known locally as the ‘simmer dim’: newsprint may be read at midnight, in stark contrast to the long, dark winter months, with days filled with twilight and a sun which scarcely rises above the horizon. Appropriately, and in contrast to The Dark, the whisky was matured in refill American oak casks and is the colour of sunlight. In common with other recent releases from Highland Park, The Light also celebrates the brand’s ‘Viking ancestry’. The sea-green bottle is heavily embossed with a Norse serpent dragon gnawing its own tail. This is Jörmungandr, the Midgard Serpent which encircles the world – itself an example of the Ouroboros, which originated in Ancient Egypt and appears in Greek and early Christian mysteries, and which also represents the infinite cycle of nature’s endless creation and destruction, life and death, and gives rise to the symbol for infinity. The body of the serpent, metal capsule and the oak ‘cradle’ which displays the bottle are decorated with runes – derived from Old Norse rún meaning ‘secret, mysterious’, and abundant on Orkney. This ancient alphabet dates from the 1st century AD, although most of the runic inscriptions in Northern Europe, including those on Orkney, date from the 11th century. Jason Craig, Highland Park’s Brand Director, says: “The inspiration for the design came from an ancient ‘Stavkirke’ [wooden church], a World Heritage site in the tiny Norwegian village of Ornes, heavily decorated with extensive and ornate wooden carvings, which we thought would look amazing on a glass bottle.”
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The Tweeddale The Evolution 28 Year Old Blended Scotch Age: 28 Year Old
J The Tweeddale comes from R&B Distillers [which stands for Raasay & Borders], founded in 2014 by Alasdair Day and Bill Dobbie. Alasdair is the great-grandson of Richard Day, whisky merchant and blender in Coldstream, deep in the Borders. In 2015 he told The Scotsman: “The heritage of R&B Distillers dates back to J&A Davidson, Licensed Grocers, Whisky Blenders and Brewers, established in Coldstream in 1820. My great-grandfather joined the business in 1895 as an office boy and took over the business in 1923. I inherited his cellar book, which contained the accounts for 1881, and at the back of the book it has the recipes for all the whiskies he blended from 1899 to 1916. “Having that information, I decided it might be worthwhile trying to recreate one of those whiskies and that led to me creating The Tweeddale blend in 2009.” Having analysed the cellar book R&B Distillers set out to predict the direction that they believe Richard Day was heading in with his blends, had he continued to produce after World War II. The Evolution is their homage to this. It is a rich, well-aged and tightly integrated blend. It is often said that a blender’s goal is to produce whiskies which are ‘more than the sum of their parts’, in other words to integrate the component malts and blends in such a way as to combine all their flavour characteristics and create, what they term an ‘integrated flavour complex’ which is completely different. R&B Distillers acquired Borodale House on the Isle of Raasay in 2015 and after 18 months of refurbishment and expansion the distillery went into production in September 2017. They hope to release their first Raasay single malt in 2020.
70CL Vol: 52%
£175
Full gold in colour, with amber lights. The nose-feel is mellow and etheric, but rich scents of vanilla sponge cake with maraschino cherries, hard toffee and tobacco, after a while. The addition of water increases these aromas and introduces hessian bung cloth, but it remains tightly integrated. The texture at natural strength is smooth, the taste sweet and rich with traces of treacle toffee and dried fruit, and some ash in the aftertaste.
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… vanilla sponge cake with maraschino cherries, hard toffee and tobacco
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Jura One For You Island Single Malt Age: 18 Year Old
70CL Vol: 52.5%
£130
Pale straw in hue, with moderate beading, the nose-feel is surprisingly prickly initially. The aroma is interesting and complex: maritime, with vanilla sponge and planed oak-wood. A little water enhances the latter and adds vanilla fudge. The taste is sweet, salty and very spicy, with white chocolate in the finish. Calmed and more accessible at reduced strength.
J One For You is the third and final instalment in a limited edition series celebrating the community on the Isle of Jura – “and all Diurachs across the globe”. The series began in 2016 with One for the Road, bottled to mark the retirement of Willie Cochrane, Jura Distillery’s long serving manager. Next year it was followed by One and All, dedicated to the community and the distillery workers. The team at Jura have selected the casks that make up One for You – a combination of American oak ex-bourbon barrels and virgin American oak quarter casks. The use of the latter is uncommon in the Scotch whisky industry – although essential in the creation of ‘straight’ bourbon or rye in America. The distillery’s press office writes: “the enhancement in fresh oak adds extra character to the flavour, with more of the malt exposed to the wood.” It goes without saying that the whisky is bottled at natural colour and strength, and without chill-filtration. It was launched in June, although a limited amount was made available on 31st May to visitors to the Jura Whisky Festival – delivered to the distillery by RIB. Graham Logan, Jura’s Distillery Manager, said: “This special limited-edition expression has been created with our extended community in mind, with flavours of honey, vanilla, almond and white chocolate, it is the perfect whisky to toast those who embrace the Jura spirit worldwide.” In my view it stresses the maritime character of Jura and adds a surprising amount of spice to the finish and aftertaste. It benefits from dilution.
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… sweet, salty and very spicy, with white chocolate
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Diageo Special Releases 2018 8x Single Malts; 1x Grain Whisky
J Diageo has been releasing limited amounts of malt whisky from selected distilleries in its ‘Special Releases’ series since 2001. The bottles’ reputation for quality, combined with their rarity, has pleased both consumers and collectors; previous releases now achieve far higher prices at auction than their release price – some massively so! For the first time since the series launched, the collection does not feature expressions of Port Ellen or Brora, however according to Donald Colville, Diageo’s Global Malts Ambassador, “You’ll still see releases on a potentially annual basis, outside of the Special Releases, but now it will give us the opportunity to pick and choose what to release, so we can be more protective over these diminishing stocks.” This year’s collection features eight single malts, plus a 48YO grain whisky from Carsebridge Distillery, which was closed and dismantled in 1983, the buildings now being used by the company’s Spirit Supply Division. Among the single malts are a 21YO Oban, matured in refill European oak butts – a departure from the ex-bourbon casks usually used, a 28YO Pittyvaich (closed in 1993), and a 14YO Singleton of Glen Ord, which Colville describes as using a “very special and experimental maturation process, in five different cask types”. Also in the line-up is an 8YO Talisker, bottled at 59.4% abv (104° Proof) to reflect one of the original bottling strengths adopted by John Walker & Sons when they took over the distillery in 1916. A tenth Special Release is under wraps until later in the year. Watch this space…
70CL £TBC
Carsebridge 48 Year Old
Diageo Special Releases 2018 Single Grain Whisky Age: 48 Year Old
70CL Vol: 43.2%
£TBC
Deep amber; from refill US oak hogsheads. Sun-bleached polished mahogany. American oak ex-bourbon casks. A reserved nose to start with, gradually opening to present dried flowers, faded chintz fabric and Makassar oil. Delicate and fragile. A voluptuous mouthfeel and a big, sweet taste to start, with oak shavings and pencil boxes in mid-palate and some discreet spice in the finish. A unique, sophisticated and subtle example of a grain whisky.
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… dried flowers, faded chintz fabric and Makassar oil
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Caol Ila 15 Year Old Unpeated Diageo Special Releases 2018 Islay Single Malt Age: 15 Year Old
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70CL Vol: 59.1%
£TBC
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The colour of old Sauternes; a combination of US oak refill and rejuvenated casks, with Spanish oak butts. A mild nosefeel, in spite of its strength. A deeply fruity aroma, with green apples and a hint of orange zest, a whiff of sea salt and a touch of vanilla sponge in the background. Water encourages the latter and introduces a suggestion of dry peat. A surprisingly mild mouthfeel and a sweet, salty taste, with fresh peach in mid-palate and some spice in the finish.
Caol Ila 35 Year Old
Diageo Special Releases 2018 Islay Single Malt Age: 35 Year Old
70CL Vol: 58.1%
£TBC
Golden Syrup in colour. From American oak hogsheads and refill European oak butts. A prickly, etheric, nosefeel, relatively closed nose to start. Then delivering floral and fruity top notes on a lightly medicinal (Coal Tar soap) and faintly smoky base. At reduced strength the aroma becomes more complex, with refined ‘aged’ notes (maturation warehouse, hessian, oak shavings). A creamy texture and a dry taste after a lightly sweet start, finishing spicy, with charcoal and tar in the aftertaste. At reduced strength is less sweet, more salty and more obviously aged, leaving a pleasantly tarry aftertaste.
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… delivering floral and fruity top notes
… hint of orange zest, a whiff of sea salt and a touch of vanilla sponge
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Inchgower 27 Year Old
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Diageo Special Releases 2018 Speyside Single Malt Age: 27 Year Old
70CL Vol: 55.3%
£TBC
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Full gold. American oak refill casks. A dry and savoury nose over all – dusty malt barn, a hint of hessian sacks, walnuts, on a base of nut brittle toffee. Water introduces ginger biscuits and green malt, and dries the nose further. A smooth texture and a taste which begins sweeter than expected but soon dries out, with considerable spice in the finish. With a drop of water, the texture is enhanced (now oily), the taste is more savoury, with a warming finish and suggestion of coconut in the aftertaste.
Lagavulin 12 Year Old
Diageo Special Releases 2018 Islay Single Malt Age: 12 Year Old
70CL Vol: 57.8%
£TBC
Pale gold, drawn from refill American oak hogsheads. Some nose prickle; powerfully smoky (smouldering peat and coke) on a base of linseed oil and coal tar soap (carbolic), with a smell of the sea in the background. Water raises medicinal notes – antiseptic, foot baths, iodine – with lingering sulphurous smoke. An oily mouthfeel, with good body. A sweet taste to start, with strong saltiness and a long, spicy, smoky finish.
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… powerfully smoky… on a base of linseed oil and coal tar soap
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… dusty malt barn, a hint of hessian sacks, walnuts, on a base of nut brittle toffee
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Oban 21 Year Old
New Releases
Diageo Special Releases 2018 Highland Single Malt Age: 21 Year Old
70CL Vol: 57.9%
£TBC
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Full gold. American oak refill butts. Considerable nose prickle to start with, but an immediate dry maritime aroma, embracing warm sand, polythene buckets, dry seaweed and crystalline salt. A drop of water opens the aroma, removes the nose prickle and generally freshens the overall impression. A creamy texture and a surprisingly sweet taste, with salt, and a relatively short, spicy finish. At lower strength the sweetness is reduced and the salt and spiciness enhanced. An especially maritime example of Oban.
Pittyvaich 28 Year Old
Diageo Special Releases 2018 Speyside Single Malt Age: 28 Year Old
70CL Vol: 52.1%
£TBC
The colour of Golden Syrup; American oak refill casks. A dense, mellow nose with light prickle to start with, but this soon fades. The first impression is estery – fruit salad with banana, vanilla ice cream, a suggestion of coconut and bubble-gum, with boiled sweets (fruity) and vinyl emerging with a drop of water. A smooth texture, and a sweet taste, with a surprising salty element and some white pepper in the finish. Both the saltiness and the pepper are much reduced at reduced strength. A complex example of the make.
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… banana, vanilla ice cream, a suggestion of coconut and bubble-gum
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… warm sand, polythene buckets, dry seaweed and crystalline salt
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The Singleton of Glen Ord 14 Year Old Diageo Special Releases 2018 Speyside Single Malt Age: 14 Year Old
70CL Vol: 57.6%
£TBC
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Full gold with amber lights. Refill American oak hogsheads and ex-bodega European oak butts followed by a ‘unique maturation and marrying process’. An appetising aroma of baked apple and soft candlewax, with a suggestion of brown sugar and warm sand after a while. A little water raises the waxy note, introduces a hint of orange and generally rounds off the nose. At natural strength, the texture is smooth and slightly waxy. The taste is sweet and spicy, with some acidity, even a shake of salt, and a long, warming finish. At reduced strength, the mouth-feel is soft, the taste lightly sweet and still spicy and warming.
Talisker 8 Year Old
Diageo Special Releases 2018 Island Single Malt
70CL
Age: 8 Year Old
Vol: 59.4%
£TBC
Deep gold with amber lights; first-fill ex-Bourbon American oak hogsheads. A powerful nose! The high strength lends prickle, but this soon blows off to allow Talisker’s key-note chilli-pepper to emerge. The top note is lightly smoky, the mid-notes fresh and maritime (sandy beaches, mineralic, crystalline salt), the base faintly oaky. An oily texture and a sweet taste, with light salt, expected spice in the finish and lingering smoke in the aftertaste. A drop of water introduces a suggestion of hessian, and increases the spiciness in the finish.
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… the top note is lightly smoky, the mid-notes fresh and maritime
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… sweet and spicy, some acidity, even a shake of salt, and a long, warming finish
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Introducing The Dalmore Port Wood Reserve.
Enjoy responsibly
Finessed in Tawny port pipes and bottled at 46.5% to extend the succulent, majestic flavours.
PURIT Y IS A R ARE THING – WORTH STRIVING FOR Since Sir Alexander Ramsay established the distillery in 1824 we’ve been going to extraordinary lengths to capture the purest expression of our whisky’s character. Located in the foothills of Scotland’s Cairngorms, we don’t just use crystal clear mountain water as an ingredient, we drench our stills
DISTILLED AND BOTTLED IN SCOTLAND THE FETTERCAIRN DISTILLERY COMPANY FETTERCAIRN KINCARDINESHIRE AB30 1YB
Enjoy responsibly
with it, cooling the copper so only the finest vapours rise.
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A Time in History
Winston’s Water of Life? Brian Wilson delves into the history and hyperbole surrounding Churchill’s relationship with whisky Knowledge Bar Winston Churchill Born 30th November 1874 in Woodstock, Oxfordshire First elected an MP in 1900 Married Clementine Spencer-Churchill in 1908 Resigned from government to join the Royal Scots Fusiliers during WWI Returned to government in 1917 Replaced Neville Chamberlain as Prime Minister in 1940 Remained an MP until 1964 Died 24th January 1965
The boom in Churchill nostalgia – movies, books, plays, endless articles – has created a caricature in which whisky plays a large part. If The Darkest Hour was taken as gospel truth, it might be concluded that Churchill’s unshakeable resolve to defeat Hitler was fuelled from breakfast onwards by a drop of the hard stuff, while strategic genius was only sharpened by a regular intake. Churchill was undoubtedly a formidable drinker and whisky, for which he first acquired a taste while soldiering in India, figured prominently alongside (Bollinger) Champagne and (Hine) brandy. The consensus among those who knew him at closest quarters tends towards the view that legend exceeded reality – which is probably just as well – but that he was content to encourage the image of indestructibility and limitless capacity. Aphorism also plays its part in sustaining this reputation. Everyone knows the one about a woman MP accusing Churchill of being drunk. He is said to have replied along the lines of “Yes, madam, and you are ugly but in the morning I will be sober and you will still be ugly”. As with many
good aphorisms, it is not clear when, where or by whom it was actually coined – but Churchill got the credit (or blame). I consulted a first-hand witness to Churchill’s later years, his grandson, Sir Nicholas Soames MP, who recalled: “Whenever my mother was asked about this by someone bold enough – usually an American journalist – she would reply: ‘I never saw my father the worse for drink, but I often saw him the better of it’ ”. Which, come to think of it, is itself a pretty fine aphorism! Nicholas’s childhood memories of visiting his grandfather at Chartwell, the Churchill family home, are of moderation rather than excess. “He would always have beside him a very weak whisky and soda. The colour had barely changed. His budgerigar Toby used to sit at the side and peck the ice.” In an age when single malts barely troubled the market, Churchill’s usual refreshment was Johnnie Walker Red Label. He was not averse to a Black Label upgrade when cases of it were gifted by Sir Alexander Walker, grandson of the original Johnnie, who became a board member of the Distillers Company when it merged with Walkers in 1925.
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Churchill regularly thanked him by letter for supplies of “your national brew”. In the late 1930s, the relationship must have been strained by Walker’s involvement with pro-appeasement organisations like the Anglo German Fellowship – of which he was a leading funder – and the Right Group. Whatever temporary difficulty this created, the records suggest that a regular flow of Black Label did no harm in restoring harmony while Sir Alexander hastily repositioned himself. The Churchill Archive at Cambridge University contains an exchange between the two men from December 1942. Two cases of Black Label are dispatched to Chartwell with Sir Alexander’s compliments. Churchill replies that it was “most kind of you to think of me again this year” and – perhaps as a reminder of great matters still to be determined – reciprocates with a signed copy of his book The Unrelenting Struggle. Walker signs off on December 30th: “With great admiration for all you have done for the country, in which you have my loyal and unwavering support”. Ironically, long before then, Churchill’s career might have been brought to a premature end – not by his attachment to liquor but by the movement to ban its sale entirely. It is one of the lost gems of Scottish political history that he was an MP representing Dundee for 14 years and that this tenure was brought to an undignified conclusion in 1922 when he was defeated by the candidate of the Scottish Prohibition Party, Edwyn Scrymgeour – its only electoral success, ever. Scrymgeour, a radical Christian socialist, had founded the party in 1901 with limited impact. However, by standing against Churchill in each of the seven elections he fought in
Dundee, Scrymgeour became a well-known figure in the city and ultimately the repository for an ‘anti-Churchill’ vote, which probably owed more to the infrequency of the great man’s visits than to enthusiasm for the temperance cause. When the 1922 General Election was called, Churchill was in London having his appendix removed. He was unable to travel to Dundee until late in the campaign and his chief emissaries encountered a hostile mood. The main speaker on his behalf was a long-time ally and drinking partner, Lord Birkenhead. Winston’s wife observed dryly: “He was no use at all. He was drunk”. She herself fared no better when campaigning in one of the poorest parts of a very poor city. “Clemmie appeared with a string of pearls,” it was noted. “The women spat on her”. Roy Jenkins, in his biography of Churchill, wrote: “A Scottish joke of the period was that the voters of Dundee, well known to be heavy drinkers, came out of the pubs, staggered to the polls and voted for total prohibition”. Churchill, in defeat, wished Scrymgeour well in representing a city where there was “such fearful misery and distress and such awful contrast between one class and another”. Once back in London, he reflected on being “without an office, without a seat, without a party and without an appendix”. Churchill now had time to reflect on the permanently chaotic nature of his personal finances, a subject that always weighed heavily. Though born into a life of plenty, his outgoings had long exceeded earnings, which came mainly from journalism and book royalties. By 1926, the need for domestic austerity caused him to issue instructions to his wife: “No more Champagne is to be bought. Unless special directions are given, only white or red wine, or whisky and soda, will be offered at luncheon or dinner. The
Wine Book to be shown to me every week. No more port is to be opened without special instructions….”. By then he was back in the House of Commons having secured the more convenient seat of Epping, on the outskirts of London, where he remained secure for the next 40 years. After serving as Chancellor of the Exchequer until 1929, Churchill did not hold Ministerial office again until 1940 so he continued to make ends meet through his writing, a labyrinth of investments and public speaking engagements. In 1932, he embarked on what was intended to be a lucrative 40-stop lecture tour of the United States. However, he did not get very far before encountering a familiar hazard for the Englishman abroad – he looked the wrong way while attempting to cross New York’s Fifth Avenue and was promptly knocked down. Pausing only to pen a piece for the Daily Mail about his experience, he ended up in Lennox Hill hospital where he signed in as ‘Winston Churchill, a British statesman’. There he remained for six weeks, before returning to the lecture circuit. Worse still, this was the time of Prohibition and Churchill required a ‘free pass’ from the hospital physician who affirmed that his convalesence “necessitates the use of alcoholic spirits especially at meal-times”. Thus, fortified against the constraints imposed on lesser mortals, he went back on the road. With his warnings against German re-armament throughout the ‘wilderness years’ of the 1930s, Churchill became an unfashionable political figure. If there was a period when he really did drink too much, then this was probably it. In 1940, the call finally came and the rest is history on an epic scale. Whether or not whisky helped win the war remains open to question, but it certainly did no harm to his reputation or longevity. In later life, it became “the stimulating sip that puts a little spring in the step of an elderly gentleman on a frosty morning”. In January 1965, Sir Winston Spencer Churchill died at the decent age of 90.
UNIQUE | DIFFERENT | INTERESTING
O N LY A C L I C K A W A Y
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W H I S K Y S H O P. C O M
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Travel
See Scotland Differently Scotland is known as a land of big vistas, but there’s a whole other country waiting to be discovered if you learn to look a little closer, writes travel editor, Claire Bell, who tried out three different ways of experiencing Scotland Knowledge Bar One Day Workshops
1 One-day close-up photography workshops
FACT: Close-up photography is otherwise known as macrophotography
2 Felt-making workshops
FACT: Felt made from wool is considered to be the oldest known textile, and is created using hot water to bind the fibres
3 Foraging Course
Interested in seasonal and foraged ingredients? Go to Mixing It Up for some autumnal inspiration
2 Drumnadrochit
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SCOTLAND
Comrie Glasgow
Edinburgh Dalkieth
ENGLAND
3 Newcastle
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Capturing What We Don’t Always See
—————————————— Close Up Photography
Clinging to a stone wall, on the north side of the River Earn in Crieff, is a mossy metropolis. On a typical morning stroll along Lady Mary’s Walk, the path made famous by the 18th century aristocrat who lived nearby, your attention might be taken up by the gushing of the river and the chatter of birds, but photographer Jo Cound challenges people to look again. She directs my gaze to dense clusters of orange lichen and dank green moss, instructing me to crouch down and examine the plants from every angle. “At first it might seem mundane, but there’s actually so much going on,” she says. Jo’s mission is not to teach people about the properties of plants, but rather to guide them to examine nature from a sculptural and emotional perspective, and then to teach them how to capture those perspectives on film. “There’s usually a feeling inside of me that draws me to something. I try to emulate that feeling on film so people can see what has drawn me to it,” she says. Jo runs close-up photography courses from
her home in Comrie, taking students into her favourite spots in the Perthshire countryside. The day-long courses start in her studio, where she first teaches the technical know-how of close-up photography, before taking people out into the field. In April she focuses on moss, in May it’s bluebells, in August it’s heather, and September and October are the months for fungi. “The secret to photography is learning how to see. It’s hard to slow people down because of the instant society we live in, but the more you stay still, the more you see,” says Jo. After half an hour scrutinising the stone wall, adjusting apertures and exposures to capture the correct depth of field and light of this mossy underworld, Jo has us crouching among tall grasses, ferns and napweed. On a normal stroll we would have covered a couple of miles by now, but we have hardly moved more than a metre. As my gaze and concentration narrows, I begin to notice things I have never seen before: patterns on the undersides of leaves, fine hairs covering tiny stalks, silent snails stuck to dry stems. In a way, it reminds me of snorkelling. When you don a mask and fins, you immerse yourself in an alternative aquatic world with its own pulse and pace. So too here, just below our knees,
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is a densely populated vibrant landscape with its own story to tell, if we only take the time to stop, look and listen. One-day close-up photography workshops cost £70 per person (4 max per class) www.jocound.co.uk, T: 07931 357 977
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Turning Sheep Into Dreams
—————————————— Felt-Making / Natural Dye
On the edge of a 100-acre woodland teeming with Douglas fir, larch and spruce, halfway between the Highland beauty spots of Drumnadrochit and Glen Affric, Rosie Hazleton and her family live entirely off-grid. Their drinking water comes from a puddle that rises up through the rocks, their toilet flushes with sawdust, and they rely on a motley crew of farm animals to provide some of their basic supplies. In Rosie’s case, one of these staples is sheep’s wool which she procures from her small flock who live on the edge of the woodland, turning the fleece into wall-hangings, rugs, children’s toys and accessories, through the ancient craft of felting. Rosie also offers weekend and week-long courses in her barn,
teaching tourists from as far afield as Canada and the US, to turn Scotland’s lambs into a different kind of takeaway. Felt is thought to be the oldest known textile, and there’s something deeply therapeutic about turning fine whispers of wool into a dense fabric, using warm water, soap and plenty of elbow grease. This is a free-style craft, no cutting or precision is required, and you soon find that the rhythmical action of working with your hands relaxes the mind. “People come here from the city, feeling stressed, unsure of what they can accomplish, and they leave happy and content, having created something special,” says Rosie. In our class, three people set out to create wall hangings from Highland scenes, while I set my sights on fashioning a little bonnet for the baby still in my belly. Originally from Wiltshire, Rosie owned her first sheep – named Woolly Jumper – when she was just a little girl, and has long been passionate about living a traditional way of life, but felt that this was not practically possible in England.
Clockwise from top left: Finding detail in nature with close up photography; Rosie Hazelton and her family live entirely ‘off grid’; hand foraged edible flowers
“Scotland is a place where we can do this. In the south-west of England, we could never afford the land or planning,” she says, a nod to the fact they are in the throes of building a home on their land using wood from their own woodland. For short weekend courses, Rosie pre-spins and dyes the fleece, while her longer courses teach how to spin fleece, forage for dye plants, and how to extract the dyes over open-fires, throwing in rusty nails, rhubarb leaves and aluminium sulphate to fix the colours. “The Highlands are one big dye garden,” says Rosie, explaining that she uses birch leaves and gorse to dye wool yellow, nettles to create green, elderberries for pink, and tree lichen to turn wool golden. “I think doing this makes people look more closely and think about plants in a different way.” One-day felt-making and natural dye courses, £75 6-day Dye to Hand-Spin courses, with accommodation, £695 Book through wildrose-escapes.co.uk or responsibletravel.com
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Clockwise from bottom left: Close up photography of a Fern; Close up photography captures the many colours and textures of moss; Certified forager, Amy Rankine; Rosie Hazelton teaches the ancient art of felting; Claire's felted bonnet.
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Free-Style Shopping in Nature's Larder
—————————————— Foraging
Just outside Edinburgh, on the banks of the South Esk River is Lord Ancrum’s wood, an ancient woodland filled with yews, oaks, beech and mixed conifers. It is here that Amy Rankine, a certified forager with the Association of Foragers, runs half-day courses, teaching people how to shop for free from nature’s larder. “You get a lot of pleasure out of knowing you can provide for yourself,” says Amy who is currently studying for a masters degree in gastronomy. “On a student budget you can end up eating beans on toast, but if you forage, you can still eat diverse flavours. A dry pasta can become a delicious meal.” Her first lesson on this one-mile foraging walk is to start with plants you recognise, pointing to the tiny daisies growing in the grass. “Daisies may not be the most wonderful tasting, but you can use the flowers as a garnish, especially in hot dishes, and add the leaves to salads.” Nettles are another easy option for
beginners. “Pick the top four leaves, blanche them in boiling water to remove the sting, and then dry them and use them like spinach. They are great in quiche, omelettes and pasta.” But while some edible plants might be obvious to the eye, Amy is quick to caution against becoming too confident too quickly. “Sweet Sicily is one of my favourites” she says, explaining how you can make delicious ice-cream from infusing the seeds of this sweet, aniseed-flavoured plant with milk, but like Hogweed, that can be used in salads, Sweet Sicily is part of the Apiaceae family, which counts the poisonous Hemlock and Giant Hogweed plants among its similarlooking cousins. Hemlock disrupts the central nervous system causing respiratory collapse and death, while Giant Hogweed is a phytotoxin which causes blistering of the skin. “You have to do your detective work to tell them apart” says Amy, teaching us a systematic method for identifying the plants, starting with leaf shape, stem (whether it is hollow, solid or ridged), hairiness, splodges and patterns on the leaves.
“Never use taste to identify a plant. It could be the last thing you ever do” she says. One of the boom plants of Lord Ancrum’s Wood is wild garlic, “but never take more than the land can handle” she warns. Both the flowers and leaves are edible – the flowers make a great pizza garnish – but should always be added at the end of cooking, or the garlic flavour will be destroyed by the heat. For Amy, foraging is not only about free food, but a way to relax. “It’s about going slowly, to see what you can find,” says Amy. “If I am feeling tired, I go out into the woodland with my basket and dog and get lost for an hour. You have a lot more respect for the food you have collected than that from the supermarket.” We end our afternoon with a pre-foraged picnic of dandelion jam sandwiches, Japanese knotweed cupcakes, a dandelion and bitter cress quiche, and the ‘Spring’ Cross Borders craft beer which Amy brewed from dandelion flowers, colts food and gorse. Eat your heart out, Famous Five. Half-day foraging course, Hipsters and Hobos, £20 hipstersandhobos.com, T: 07572082759
THE GATHERING OF THE DRAMS
EXPLORE THE
F I NE ST S I NG L E C A S K
/HUNTERLAINGWHISKY
WHISKIES FROM ALL ACROSS SCOTLAND
@HLAINGWHISKY
HUNTERLAING.COM
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My Craft
Cabin Fever Artist Bobby Niven and architect Iain MacLeod are reinventing the definition of the word ‘bothy’. We visited their Artist Bothy at Edinburgh Sculpture Workshop to discover how the small dwellings have made a big impact on the way rural Scotland is enjoyed. Knowledge Bar The Bothy Project Founders/creators: Iain MacLeod, graduate of the Scott Sutherland School of Architecture, Aberdeen Bobby Niven, graduate of The Glasgow School of Art and University of British Columbia bobbyniven.co.uk
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Edinburgh
How did the Bothy Project come about? Iain: We've known each other from way back, school time, high school. I’m a practicing architect, Bobby was doing art practice, and we decided to collaborate on the Residencies for Scotland award in 2011. As a young architect in practice I was quite interested in small structures that I might be able to have a bit more hands-on experience with myself, and Bobby was thinking about residencies, so it was just a natural progression. Bobby: The award is something that the Royal Scottish Academy runs. It’s a great format – you design your own artists’ residency programme: where you want to go, how you want to spend the money, where you want to travel, and things like that. But we actually applied to build the residency on our residency. So we ended up down here in Edinburgh Sculpture Workshop, before the current building was here.
We had these windows from my old flat in Glasgow – old tenement windows – which were this tall shape, and we worked around what sort of space you’d need for a structure of this scale to be a productive space – to have head space, sleeping space, etc. Iain: It was all about creating a residency space for artists. And I think, at the time, it was about getting artists out of the Central Belt (of Scotland) and into more interesting places up north and things. Bobby: We were inspired by the mountain bothies as well, and the context of being ‘off grid’, but trying to facilitate it so you could stay for a bit longer. So, rather than having to bed down on a concrete floor and carrying your food with you, you could have that off grid environment, but you could have the set up with the library and bedding and firewood and stuff, meaning you could be there for a more extended period, for a week or so.
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1 Knowledge Bar The Bothy Project 1. Sweeney’s Bothy Location: Isle of Eigg (north) Created in 2013 in collaboration with artist, Alec Finlay Inspired by the 7th Centruy Gaelic King Sweeney 2. Inshriach Bothy Location: Inshriach Estate, within the Cairngorms National Park The original Bothy Project bothy, designed for the RSA Residencies for Scotland 2011 and completed in 2012 3. Pig Rock Bothy Location: Grounds of the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art Commissioned in 2014 by National Galleries of Scotland as a temporary venue, it continues to be used for a wide range of creative activities
2 Drumnadrochit Eigg
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2 How did that first RSA application evolve into the current set-up with Bothy Stores running alongside the Bothy Project? Bobby: Since we started in 2011, we’ve had loads of enquiries from people asking if they can buy one of the bothies. So, over this last year, we decided to set up a trading arm called Bothy Stores, and this Bothy we’re sitting in is our answer to that enquiry. More people were asking for that Inshriach kind of vernacular style (of the original Artist’s Bothy). Iain: So this is the flagship product of Bothy Stores, basically. We are going to sell these. Bobby: The profit from these is then going to go back into Bothy Project – which is a charity now – and will fund the residencies in our other bespoke bothies.
3 Did you start off with a list of requirements, both from an architectural and artistic point of view? Iain: I think the starting point was a ‘livework’ space. We wanted a really flexible open space, but then we needed to get in all the things you’d ‘need’ – bed, sink, etc. So we tried to get all of that in a really compact fashion within half of the structure’s footprint, and the other half was all just flexible work space. Bobby: And then having to transport it on the back of a truck, in panels. The width of each panel could only be about 2.5 metres, so that’s informed the scale of it too. Iain: It needed to be a transportable, modular system. It’s worth saying that the original bothy was designed without a site in mind, so that’s why we took the notion that we would follow quite a traditional vernacular
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form, with the pitched roof, and using vernacular materials like corrugated iron, then try and do a contemporary interpretation of that. So, stripped back details, plush gutters, and considered window opening details, just to make it as simple and minimal as possible. Bobby: We wanted to bring a bit of symmetry to it as well with the windows on either side, because it wasn’t site specific design. Iain: Exactly – you’ve got windows on both axis, so it doesn’t matter which side you’re in and you can rotate it. Tell us more about the site-specific bothies you’ve designed since the original bothy for the RSA award. Iain: We did one on the Isle of Eigg, and we had a site overlooking the Sound of Rum. That one has the big windows. Bobby: There’s a window on the mezzanine so you can be lying down looking up the cliffs at the back, and then there’s also a tall human-sized floor-to-ceiling window that gives you the scale of the cliffs, then
there’s a wee window in the kitchen that shows you up to God’s finger, which is an amazing rock structure. Iain: For that one, also, the design was more a conceptual thing because we were in collaboration with Alec Finlay, the artist, as part of Creative Scotland’s Year of Natural Scotland. We decided we’d base it on the story of the 7th Century Gaelic King Sweeney. In the story of Sweeney, he lived in a thorny bed, so that’s why the bed in the Eigg bothy is in a tree-like structure. It’s all quite specific. How do you select the artists who take up residencies as part of the Bothy Project? Bobby: It used to be a kind of ballot system. And part of the reason for that was that there aren’t many residency opportunities in Scotland, and we wanted to try and offer as many residencies as possible, and to people from different backgrounds. So it wasn’t just about who you know and where your career is going. You had to put forward a proposal of what you’d like to work on and what your practice is all about, and then we put the
names in a hat and drew them out. And at that time people were paying their own way – it was self-funded, so there was a cost that was for firewood and changeover, and stuff like that. But now we’ve got our new director for the Bothy Project, Luke Collins, and he’s going to be working on launching funded residencies. So artists can have a bit of funding, and a bit more time and support to go and do a long residency – two weeks plus – and go out and do a bit of community work and stuff too. Iain: Now the artists apply for the residencies, so it’s more proposal based. Bobby: And a decision is made by panel as well. How has the project been informed by your own personalities and experiences? Iain: Going back to the original concept of the Project, it definitely feeds off a general love of the outdoors and our experiences in bothies and walking and travelling and stuff. Bobby: In the Glasgow art scene, the Master of Fine Art students and international
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Knowledge Bar The Bothy Project –Timeline 2011 Bobby Niven and Iain MacLeod are granted an RSA residency to design and build the first Bothy. 2012 Original bothy is situated at Inshriach Estate in the Cairngorms National Park and the first Bothy Project artist residencies begin. 2013 As part of Creative Scotland’s Year of Natural Scotland, Bothy Project teamed up with artist Alec Finlay to create an innovative new bothy location on the Isle of Eigg. This becomes Sweeney’s Bothy. 2014 Pig Rock Bothy is commissioned by National Galleries Scotland as part of Generation – an exhibition celebrating 25 years of contemporary art in Scotland. Now permanently situated in the grounds of the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, Pig Rock Bothy is a multifunctional exhibition and events space. Clockwise from top: Iain and Bobby; Trakke Shower Bag; Brain Rock Iron Pot by James Rigler and Virginia Hutchinson; Sgurr Blanket Kirsty MacDougall. Product photography by Johnny Barrington
art students rarely got a chance to go and explore Scotland, whether it was because they didn’t have a car or whatever. That access to affordable accommodation that you could go and use as an outpost to go and explore in the countryside – I think there is something missing there, a facility, something somewhere between the mountain bothies and a hostel. Iain: Facility-wise, you can feel comfortable enough to work in the space, and the space is adequate for working in, and private enough. Bobby: We wanted to provide a platform for people to be inspired by what they experienced out there. Because so much of the art scene is so self-referencing, so sometimes it’s nice to realise there are other things to inspire you. Tell us about the items you sell via Bothy Stores Bobby: Katy West, a designer and curator in Glasgow, was a big part of initiating Bothy Stores and commissioning these products, where the brief for them is basically to create something new for one of the bespoke bothies. We have a cast-iron pot here, made by James Rigler and Virginia Hutchison, and the relief form on the outside is cast from a rock from
2016 Bothy Stores, a new curatorial strand of the Bothy Project, is conceived in collaboration with designer and curator Katy West showcasing the specially commissioned work of six leading designers in Scotland. 2017 A sister company, social enterprise Bothy Stores Ltd is founded to develop and launch a prefabricated bothy, the Artist Bothy, for the commercial market, profits from which are reinvested into the Bothy Project.
Singing Sands, the beach next to Sweeney’s. So, literally taking a print from the site there to create that. We also have a blanket by Kirsty MacDougall, and that again is for Sweeney’s Bothy and inspired by the hillside and the colours behind the Bothy, on Eigg’s most prominent landmark, An Sgurr. Are the Bothy Project spaces also available for non-artists to enjoy? Bobby: They are used on and off for public lets. They’re on Airbnb and other platforms, primarily as a way to provide alternative income. Iain: It is the hosts who generally will do that – the people who own the land that the bothies are on. The current arrangement is that they take half of the year, and create their own income from it. That was our early way of essentially securing a plot. Bobby: Going forward, we are looking at other models as well, because the Bothy Project is a charity now, so we’re able to fundraise in ways that we weren’t able to before. So, there will be public lets, but perhaps they’ll be a bit more rare.
Has it been a challenge to secure land in these picturesque rural parts of Scotland? Bobby: We were really lucky with Inshriach Estate, in the first instance, that they were up for it. They were doing other similar stuff, other glamping activity. Iain: I guess it just needs somebody that’s adventurous to take something like this on. Effectively they’re being gifted a nice bothy! Bobby: It’s a good opportunity – the bookings for the bothies, when they do go to public lets – on Eigg it’s over 95%, they do book out. In creating this design we’re giving the opportunity for other landowners to pick up one of these for themselves and use it for their own tourist activities. Are you precious about who can purchase your bothies and how or where they’re used? Bobby: I think, consciously, they were designed to suit any location. We were quite particular about testing them in a kind of urban environment or a rural environment. We’re quite happy with that fact that they sit in lots of different locations. So, I think to vet where they’re used would be the wrong way to go about it.
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Through renting one of the bothies through Airbnb you can make about £25k a year, so you can pay off the investment in them really quickly. And the story behind it, being a Scottish story, a Scottish design, and us being Scottish, makes them really appealing. So, what exactly is in each Bothy? We can see a sort of shower contraption here… Bobby: That’s a shower bag designed by Trakke (see Whiskeria Autumn 2017); basically you put a kettle on the stove, boil up your water, pour it into that bag, take it outside and hang it on a tree, and use it as a shower. It’s inspired by the shower at Inshriach, which is just a plastic bag… This is our more durable and sustainable version. There’s off grid systems in the bothies (for power), but here you can link it up to an electric system if you have that at your house or in the garden. And, if you’re off-grid, you can set up a wee renewable thing with some solar panels. Iain: We’ve made it adaptable to suit, whether it’s wired off the mains at a house or not. There’s one terminus for mains power input, and it’s pre-wired, and the wiring is routed into the CLT (cross laminated timber interior).
Bobby: Then there’s a range of furniture designed by Colin Parker. It’s all made from Scottish oak, and this is available to help make the bothies ‘useable’. There’s a ladder so you can get up to the mezzanine, a table, there’s a kind of day bed, so you could sleep two people downstairs with a wee mattress. You could even use it as a family unit with the kids downstairs and the parents upstairs. And what’s the actual bothy itself made of? Iain: It’s pre-weathered corrugated CorTen externally, which is inspired by a Scottish vernacular – traditional bothies and agricultural buildings. And then it’s wood fibre insulation, so it’s fully insulated and quite toasty with the stove on, and then the inside is a structural timber (CLT). Bobby: It’s great for Scottish weather, you know? It’s really robust, in terms of wind etc. But, also, it allows it to be lifted as a single unit. So this one, when it came down from the factory, was a single piece lifted onto the truck by a forklift at that end, then it came off at this end by a small crane. So it can be installed immediately, within an hour. The basic dimensions were designed to fit on a lorry.
Author James Crawford, who works for Scotland’s National Collection of architecture and archaeology, contributed a piece on the Sweeney’s Bothy titled ‘A View with a Room’ to Who Built Scotland: A history of the nation in twenty-five buildings. Other contributors include our cover star, Alexander McCall Smith, and the book is available to buy via bothystores.com. — Nick Barley, director of Edinburgh International Book Festival, stayed in Sweeney’s Bothy in 2016 to read through that year’s list of Man Booker Prize nominees, for which he was a judge. A tweet about his time there caught the attention of Scottish First Minister Nicola Sturgeon, who expressed a wish to visit too! — Find out more about Bothy Stores and the Bothy Project, browse items by featured artists and designers, and enquire about owning your own Bothy at bothystores.com
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Distillery Visit
Ground Breaking Distillery: The Macallan Location: Charlestown of Aberlour Words: Gavin D Smith
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Distillery Visit Clockwise from oppposite page: Exterior of the new Macallan distillery; Interior view; Easter Elchies House; a new cask display
Knowledge Bar The Macallan – Good with Wood The Macallan is synonymous with the use of sherryseasoned casks for maturation, and remarkably, Macallan’s owners Edrington are responsible for some 95% of all sherry casks being imported to Scotland. Stuart MacPherson, Spanish Operations Manager & Master of Wood, explains that “All our casks are made in Spain to our specifications, which include toasting levels, timings and specification of timber. We use a number of cooperages in Jerez and our main ‘seasoning’ bodegas are González Byass and William & Humbert, although we do use some smaller familyowned bodegas.” He adds that “the casks are seasoned with an Oloroso sherry which, by definition, must be a minimum of two years old.” Seasoning the new casks with sherry lasts for 18 months, and The Macallan uses both European oak (70%) and American oak (30%) casks. Stuart MacPherson notes that “The main differences are related to colour and flavour characteristics and this can be contributed to specific chemical compounds within the different species of trees. At Macallan, we only ever use our casks twice.”
Little did local barley farmer and school teacher Alexander Reid know, when he took out a licence for what was to become The Macallan distillery in 1824, that almost two centuries later the brand of whisky still made on that site would be celebrated as one of the world’s greatest malts. Nor could he have envisaged that his modest two-still enterprise would have been transformed into what is arguably the most distinctive whisky distillery of them all. When the new Macallan facility was unveiled earlier this year, it soon became clear that this was a game-changer for the way distilleries and their visitor centres were conceived and subsequently delivered. The Macallan’s bold decision to break with tradition and create a piece of architecture that would have an intrinsic worth in its own right, and not just functionality, led to a collaboration with Rogers Stirk Harbour + Partners, the team behind London’s Millennium Dome and Heathrow’s Terminal 5.
According to the architects, “Internally, a series of production cells are arranged in a linear format with an open-plan layout revealing all stages of the production process at once. These cells are reflected above the building in the form of a gently undulating timber roof. Grass-covered peaks rise and fall from The Macallan estate grounds, signalling to approaching visitors the activities housed beneath. Set into the naturally sloping contours of the site, the design makes direct references to ancient Scottish earthworks.” The distillery has been likened to “a hightech Hobbit house”; while writing for forbes.com, Felipe Schrieberg declared that “The new Macallan 2.0 is a truly ultra-modern facility that would fit nicely in a Bond movie, cementing its status as the world’s top luxury whisky brand.” Ian Curle, CEO of Macallan’s owners Edrington, declares that “We’re standing on the shoulders of giants. We’re laying the foundations for the future. We wanted to respect this beautiful natural location and build something that would endure. The unsurpassed quality of The Macallan is in high demand and we face the future confidently with this new distillery. It’s an authentic, abiding,
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ambitious investment that will match consumer expectations for generations to come. We expect this new Macallan enterprise to deliver significant benefits for the tourism industry, Scotch whisky exports, and the economy.” Creating Curle’s ‘enduring building’ has been a massively complex project for all involved and cost Edrington some £140 million. Elgin-based Robertson Construction was charged with delivering the distillery, which began with the excavation of 500,000 tonnes of earth after ground was broken in December 2014. Robertson’s worked with 25 contractors, and up to 400 people representing 20 different trades were on site as the building took shape. 20,000 cubic metres of concrete was used in the construction, which involved the installation of what has been described as one of the most complex timber roof sections in the world. This comprised no fewer than 1,800 single beams and a total of 380,000 individual components.
The distillery has been designed not just with external environmental aesthetics in mind, but with ‘green’ credentials at its core. As a result, 95 per cent of its energy requirements will be supplied from renewable sources. Of course, any distillery is only as good as the whisky-making equipment in it, and Macallan’s famous ‘curiously small stills’ were replicated by the Rothes firm of Forsyth’s, which faithfully copied the existing vessels down to every last lump and bump. A grand total of 12 wash and 24 spirit stills were created, along with 21 stainless steel washbacks and a vast mash tun with a capacity of 17 tonnes. Previously, the ‘old’ Macallan distillery had operated two stillhouses, one fitted with a mash tun, 19 stainless steel washbacks, five wash and 10 spirit stills, while the second had its own mash tun, six wooden washbacks and three of stainless steel, plus two wash stills and four spirit stills.
Its replacement – which first produced spirit in December 2017 – gives the option to increase capacity from 11 million litres per annum to 15 million litres but is also much more visually appealing to visitors. Clearly, having a bespoke ‘brand home’ in which to showcase all things Macallan was an important factor in the creation of the new distillery, and the visitor experience has been developed with the same meticulous attention to detail as the structure itself. Inside Macallan On approach, the distillery appears relatively low-key, with its five-domed roof the most significant feature. The pathway seems to narrow as it approaches a modest doorway, funnelling visitors into what might well be a dark and claustrophobic space. Once through the door, though, the sheer
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scale of the apparently cavernous building is truly surprising. It is a very clever sleight of hand. Much use has been made of polished concrete and there is quite a gritty, urban vibe. It is certainly not like any other Scotch whisky distillery you will have visited. A dramatic floor to ceiling glass ‘archive wall’ holds The Macallan’s priceless collection of bottlings, never previously displayed together, and visitors experience what has been termed ‘an interactive immersive brand experience’ based upon The Macallan’s ‘six pillars’ of core brand values (see themacallan. com/inside/6-pillars), including a Lalique sculpture that represents the ‘third pillar’ or ‘finest cut.’ The stars of the show remain, however, Macallan’s unique copper pot stills, arranged in three interconnected circles. And, if the thought of all the whisky being created gives you a thirst, there is a stylish bar, boasting no fewer than 952 different expressions of The Macallan.
Roll with it: Underneath the complex, undulating roof, the distillery is split into five 'cells'. The modular building approach makes future expansion of the distillery a possibility.
Great care has been taken to match the style of spirit produced in ‘old’ Macallan with that in the new distillery, and during the two years prior to the opening of the new facility a team led by Master Distiller Nick Savage worked to ‘benchmark’ that spirit by rigorous analysis, so that everyone is satisfied that no consumer will ever notice any difference when he opens a bottle of The Macallan at some future date. If £140 million sounds like a lot to create a distillery, then it is worth bearing in mind that it is only part of a total expenditure of £500 million on the site over a 12-year period, so confidence in the future of The Macallan as one of the world’s favourite single malts is clearly high.
New Drams The official opening of the new distillery has been commemorated by the creation of The Macallan Genesis Limited Edition, which costs £495 per bottle, and is available only at the distillery and at The Macallan’s own airport retail outlets in the Far East. And, just in case anyone was likely to forget why The Macallan is feted as one of the great whisky brands, the company also recently announced the release of its oldest bottling to date. This is no less than 72 years old, and each of the 600 individually numbered Lalique decanters sells for the equivalent of US$60,000. More affordable expressions are, of course, available from The Whisky Shop!
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Mixing It Up
A Seasonal Food & Drink Pairing Forget wining and dining – we’ve collaborated with Diageo and Scottish chefs from That’s Yer Dinner to create a menu of autumnal whisky cocktails and their perfect culinary counterparts. — Photographer: Christina Kernohan Assistant: Cat Thomson Stylist: Meredith Wilkie
Knowledge Bar
Our four Diaegeo bottlings Auchroisk Founded 1974 Location: Banffshire, Speyside Talisker Founded: 1830 Location: Carbost, Isle of Skye Caol Ila Founded: 1846 Location: Port Askaig, Islay Benrinnes Founded: 1826 Location: Aberlour, Speyside
L-R: Stephen Martin, Grant & Gordon Reekie That’s Yer Dinner started life as a blog by brothers Grant and Gordon Reekie before moving into the ‘real world’ with a string of popup events in South Glasgow. Building big flavours using fresh, local and seasonal ingredients is how they’ve made their name, and they pride themselves on preparing food with “just enough nonsense”. From humble beginnings, the brothers have progressed to working the line in some of Glasgow’s best restaurants, as well as providing culinary accompaniments to some of Scotland’s favourite whiskies. They’ve recently taken over the kitchen at Inn Deep, the flagship pub in the west end of Glasgow from Williams Brothers brewery. Make sure to follow @thatsyerdinner and @inndeepbar to find out what fresh flavours they’re bringing to the table each season.
Stephen Martin has been working in the drinks industry since 2002, making his mark as an award-winning bartender in cocktail bars, clubs and hotels everywhere from Scotland to Australia before becoming a brand ambassador. He’s worked with various spirits since joining Diageo in 2012, and is also closely involved with their World Class programme – in layman’s terms, that means he is involved in organising, judging and mentoring the world’s most prestigious bartending competition. “I love working with Scotch because the future of whisky greatly excites me. We are constantly innovating and pushing the boundaries - certainly in terms of marketing and production and I’m fascinated by the way we are learning more and more from our international counterparts. Whisky is an industry that’s changing and I’m only too happy to be a tiny part of that.” – who better to showcase Diaego’s single malt Scotch portfolio?
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Oysters/ 'Hair O' The Dug' [Talisker 10 Year Old]
Gordon: “I will never forget opening my first oyster at Rogano, an oyster bar and restaurant in Glasgow city centre. For the life of me I just couldn't open the damn thing. After several failed attempts and broken oysters I soon gathered a crowd of chefs who all had handy tips, Hair O'The Dug techniques and more than a few jibes to share. 40ml Talisker 10 Year Old Red faced and flustered, I continued to jab, prod, 20 dashes Worcester sauce twist and slip, cutting my knuckles to bits, and all 3 dashes Tobasco to no avail. It felt like trying to cut a rock in half A sprinkle of Maldon salt & with a blunt two inch screwdriver. Finally, after freshly ground pepper what felt like a lifetime, the knife slipped in and 2 basil leaves with a slight twist of the wrist I had opened my 5ml lemon juice first oyster. Tradition insisted I would have to eat 10ml Shiraz my first oyster opened, and this would be the 125ml tomato juice first one I had ever tried. I would love to tell you — I had some epiphany and fell in love. Sadly, that Add all ingredients (except wine) to a mixing would be a lie. The oyster went in, then was spat jug and stir thoroughly (without ice). Then straight back out into the bin, much to the delight add to ice filled highball and garnish with of the crowd of chefs. I have been working with fresh cherry tomato, basil leaves and samphire. oysters ever since and I am pleased to say I have Drizzle shiraz. grown to love them. I particularly like them like — paired with whisky – Scotland's best produce Oysters paired together – especially if you can get a hold Oysters are delicious as they come, straight of oysters from the same water as the distillery. from the sea, but a squeeze of lemon and We have a particular fondness for Talisker as accompaniment of salty samphire really enhances we cooked a barbecue near the distillery last their unique maritime flavour. They should summer. We certainly needed a wee pick up always be served on a bed of crushed ice. the next morning, and a Bloody Mary and fresh oysters was just the thing.” —
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Gordon expertly shucks an oyster; Stephen puts the finishing touches to his Hair O’ The Dug cocktail
Stephen: “I’ve tried Bloody Marys with every spirit base possible over the years and this is by far and away the best. Talisker is an incredible example of the intricacies of process and the vast range of flavours that can be unearthed within Scotch. We all associate Talisker with flavours reminiscent of oyster shell, brine, sandcastles and bonfire, but I wanted to draw on the savoury, salty smoke that sometimes gets overlooked. For me there’s a flavour halfway between pork scratching and pork crackling, and this forms an incredible backbone to one of the world’s favourite cocktails. Season to perfection and garnished to excite!” —
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Pigeon, creamed celeriac, pearl barley & pickled brambles/ 'Gamechanger' [Benrinnes 15 Year Old]
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Gamechanger 40ml Benrinnes 15 Year Old 20ml Blackberry washed PX sherry 2 dashes Angostura bitters — Stir all ingredients in a mixing glass over ice and strain into a chilled coupette. Garnish with a skewered blackberry. — Pigeon, creamed celeriac, pearl barley & pickled brambles — Creamed celeriac 1/2 celeriac, finely sliced 1 onion, diced 450ml whole milk 50ml cream — Pearl barley 1 small carrot, finely diced 1 shallot, finely diced 1 celery stick, finely diced 1 clove garlic, finely diced 200g pearl barley 750ml hot chicken stock — Pickled brambles 200ml red wine vinegar 100g sugar 1 handful brambles 1 star anise 1 cinammon stick 3 cloves 5 peppercorns 1 bay leaves — 1–2 x pigeon breasts per person Handful of mixed woodland mushrooms (or buy mixed wild mushrooms)
For the creamed celeriac: Sweat onion with a pinch of salt, when softened add the celeriac. Add dairy, adding more if necessary to cover the veg, then place a piece of greaseproof paper over the surface of the liquid. Simmer gently until well-cooked, then blend thoroughly. Season well with salt. For the pearl barley: Sweat the veg with a good pinch of salt until softened. Add the barley and cook for a minute, before adding the hot chicken stock as you would to a risotto, a couple of ladles at a time, then stir until absorbed. Do this until the barley is cooked through and has a thick and creamy sauce coating it. Season well with salt and black pepper. For the pickled brambles: Heat the vinegar, sugar and aromatics together until the sugar is all dissolved. Allow to cool to tepid, then add the brambles and leave to infuse. To plate, spoon some of the celeriac into a wide, flat bowl, then use the back of the spoon to push out into a little well. Put your cooked barley into this. The pigeon breasts and mushrooms you can cook at the same time in a hot pan with a little oil, for 1-2 minutes each side of the breast. Cut it open to check the doneness, which is best about medium-rare. Place the cooked breast, pink side out, on top of the barley, then decorate with pickled brambles cut lengthwise.
Grant delicately brushes dirt from wild mushrooms; fresh blackberries; Dishing up, beginning with the creamed celeriac
Grant & Gordon: “This dish is composed of things that remind us of home. We come from a very rural village in Fife, and there are always plump wood pigeons hooting in the trees around our garden. We used to walk through the fields of wheat and barley in autumn and gorge on the wild brambles that grew around their edges, getting our hands all scratched up in the process. The jammy notes in the blackberry reduced sherry and the body of the Benrinnes really complement the tart pickled brambles and gamey pigeon.” — Stephen: “Benrinnes is a fascinating whisky and a blender's dream! It has a truly unique personality. Rich, sulphury new make rested in active European oak is a winning combination for me, and the whisky begins to take on a savoury, meaty characteristic you would more associate with a Sunday roast than a dram. This paired with fresh blackberry is a wonderful combination that complements game beautifully, while this drink is so simple it unlocks the layers of complexity that are waiting to be found within this remarkable bottle of Scotch.”
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Caramel apple tarte tatin with Chantilly cream/ 'Cockney Highball' [Auchroisk 15 Year Old]
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Cockney Highball 45ml Auchroisk 10 Year Old 5ml Poire William liqueur 25ml lemon juice 15ml sugar syrup 40ml cloudy apple juice Sparkling water — Add ingredients (except sparkling water!) to a shaker and shake vigorously with ice. Strain into an ice filled highball and top with sparkling water. Garnish with a pear slice. —
Preheat oven to 200 degrees. For this you’ll need a small, heavy bottomed frying pan that can go from the stove into the oven. Use this to melt the sugar to a dark caramel over a medium heat. When it is all melted and dark, remove from the heat and stir in the butter, salt and vanilla paste. Add the apples and allow to cook slightly, before topping with a circle of puff pastry cut to fit your pan. Tuck this in slightly to create the edges, poke a few holes to allow steam to escape, and then brush with beaten egg. Cook the pastry in the oven until golden brown and crispy all over, about 20 minutes. Allow to cool slightly, then invert onto a plate. To make the Chantilly cream, sift the icing sugar into the cream, add the vanilla paste, and whisk until thick and voluminous. Dollop this on top of the warm tart and tuck in!
Caramel apple tarte tatin with Chantilly cream — Tart 100g soft brown sugar 45g butter Pinch sea salt 1 tsp vanilla paste 1 Braeburn apple, peeled, cored and cut into rings 150g puff pastry, rolled thinly Chantilly cream 200ml whipping cream 2 tbsp icing sugar 1 tsp vanilla paste
Peeling apples; Whisking the Chantilly cream; A squeeze of fresh lemon juice to lift the sweetness of the cocktail
Grant & Gordon: “Autumn is definitely upon us. Despite a very welcome Indian summer over the last few weeks, there is now a definite nip in the air, and the change in the colour of the leaves is becoming more and more pronounced. Autumn in Scotland doesn’t always match up to the postcard preconception of the season, often being more of a trudge through sideways rain than a skip around a pumpkin patch in a cosy sweater. However, this is harvest season, and glorious fruit and veg is everywhere. This tart is perfect for windfall apples if you’re lucky enough to have them in your garden, and is a beautifully rustic crowd pleaser that will definitely impress. With the matching autumn fruit notes in the cocktail, and the warmth and sweetness of the Auchroisk, this is guaranteed to get you feeling cosy.” — Stephen: “Auchroisk (pronounced Arth – rusk) is a wonderful distillery on the outskirts of Rothes producing a great whisky that forms part of our Flora & Fauna series. While the new make is typically nutty, the whisky for me has a custard and green apple characteristic that I couldn’t ignore. This is a traditional flavour combination and beautifully showcases a whisky that perhaps a lot of people haven’t tried.” —
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Crowdie cheesecake mousse, oat crumb, balsamic strawberries/ 'Smoked Strawberry Gimlet' [Caol Ila Distillers Edition]
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Smoked Strawberry Gimlet 50ml Caol Ila Distillers Edition 50ml strawberry cordial 1ml Parisian absinthe — Stir ingredients over ice then add to an ice filled rocks glass. Garnish with a star anise. —
Crowdie cheesecake mousse, oat crumb, balsamic strawberries — Crowdie mousse 300g Crowdie 150g icing sugar 200ml whipping cream Balsamic strawberries Handful of fresh strawberries 1 tsbp sugar 1 tbsp good balsamic vinegar Biscuit crumb 1/2 packet of oaty biscuits, smashed — For the cheesecake mousse: Whisk the icing sugar and crowdie together. Whip the cream until stiff, then fold the mixtures together. For the strawberries: Sprinkle strawberries with sugar and balsamic, stir gently, then leave to macerate for at least 10 minutes. To plate, make a wee circle of the smashed biscuits, then use a warmed spoon to roughly quenelle the Crowdie cheesecake mousse. Place on top and decorate with the balsamic strawberries. Garnish with fresh strawberries and small leaves of basil or mint.
Grant & Gordon: “This is a really easy way to get a cheesecake together in a matter of minutes. Crowdie is a great Scottish product, and was traditionally eaten before ceilidhs to alleviate the effects of whisky, so is very appropriate here! Growing up in Fife we spent many a summer picking strawberries. In the height of summer, they are pretty much perfection, and don’t want anything done to them at all. The ones you get late in the season going into autumn are good to play with though, and we love the pairing of them with the mild cheese and the sharp balsamic vinegar. The smokiness of the Caol Ila takes this to another level, layering against the mild flavours of the dish for a complex finish” — Stephen: “This drink is a wonderful representation of my favourite unlikely Scottish flavour combination: the unmistakable sweet coastal smoke from Caol Ila paired with beautifully ripe Scottish strawberries! Making a cordial is a great way of extracting flavour from seasonal produce and my strawberry cordial brings out an indulgent, buttery characteristic within Caol Ila Distillers Edition. The slightest touch of absinthe lingers on the tip of your tongue, urging you go back in for second sip.” —
Slowly stirring the cocktail to dilute and chill; A drizzle of balsamic vinegar; Freshly picked Fife strawberries
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All work & all play Alexander McCall Smith
The Emeritus Professor and internationally acclaimed author – known as Sandy, to his friends – joined us in the opulent surroundings of The Chaumer residence to contemplate life, literature, and his longstanding friendship with our very own Charles MacLean. — Photography: Christina Kernohan Assitant: Cat Thomson
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Among many other things, you’re renowned for your ability to write at great speed, penning up to 1,000 words an hour. How has that shaped your career? I’m very conscious of the fact that that’s good fortune. I mean, some writers don’t write quite so quickly – Flaubert only wrote 35 words a week, but they were very good, and they were in French as well… It enables me to write about five or six books a year which is breaking all the known rules of publishing. Your talent to produce fiction so quickly, and your background in law and ethics, must give you a unique opportunity to address real-time moral issues within your texts? I think that you have to be careful, when you’re writing books, that you don’t date them too much and that you don’t tie them to a particular moment in time, which means they can then be dated later on. Fiction should, if at all possible, transcend the immediate so that people can read it five years or 10 years from now, and not feel there are issues of the day that have got a little long in the tooth, or indeed not know what the references are. You can make a contemporary reference which, two years from now, people will have moved on from. I think I prefer to write, if at all possible, in a timeless way, so that you’re not tied by anything. You’ve released several serialised novels, which is uncommon for a contemporary author – what inspired you to use that method? It used to be the standard way of doing novels in the 19th century. As people know, Dickens did that, and others did too – Tolstoy, Trollope. Then it died off in the 20th century until Armistead Maupin revived it with his Tales of the City, set in San Franciso, and published in the San Francisco Chronicle. I did that with my Scotland Street books, and that’s now the longest running serial novel in the world. We’ve done quite a number of volumes – I forget the exact number, it may even be 12 volumes!
How far ahead do you write those chapters? My Scotland Street stories appear as chapters in The Scotsman on a daily basis, so I like to have about 20 chapters written before I start. Then that gives me 20 days, which is four five-day weeks, and then I carry on. Towards the end I may only be three or four chapters ahead of the paper, and then they’re published as books. So it’s a proper serial novel, we publish 1,200 words a day. There is a photo of yourself with our very own Charles MacLean on ScotchWhisky.com, in which you appear to be sailing. Tell us more about that. I decided five years ago I wanted to have more fun, so I phoned up five or six friends and said “Would you like to come to the Caribbean? I’ll set everything up and you can come as my guests and we’ll sail”. And they took 45 seconds, honestly, to say yes! So we all got passes from our wives, and off we went. And we had the most absolutely wonderful time. We went back to being 18, which is probably where most of us are stuck. I mean, I’ve yet to meet anybody who’s got beyond 18! They may exist, but most of us, given half the chance, 18 is where we go back to. We were a sailing boat, we had a number of sailors on board. On the first cruise, which was in the British Virgin Islands, we anchored off a beach and we saw a bar among the trees which looked inviting, so we got into our dinghy and rowed ashore and discovered this bar in the trees was called ‘Ivan’s Stress Free Bar’, and so we went in. We performed excerpts from The Pirates of Penzance, and the denizens of Ivan’s Stress Free Bar – they were a wonderful bunch – they were not only smashed, they were stoned as well, and they thought we were absolutely marvellous. So we had a very nice evening with them. And so we’ve continued, the following year we sailed from Grenada to Martinique, and the year after that from Antigua to Guadeloupe and Dominica. And then the year after that, Thailand, in the upper regions of the Straits of Malacca. And then last year we did Greece. It’s a great institution, and the wonderful thing
about doing it with the same people every year is that nobody says anything different, so we’ve heard all the same jokes, which are always every bit as good as when they were first told! Were you all accomplished sailors before you started these trips – do youhave set roles? Well… Some of us were. Charlie had quite a bit of experience and I’ve been sailing for about 15 years. And then Neil Swan, who skippers us, he’s the most experienced, so he’s the one in charge. On the boat you can usually see Charlie looking anxiously at his watch, then he rings the ship’s bell at 12 o’clock and says “Alright chaps!” and you know that’s the day going downhill (with a drink). The rest of us remain consummate – he’s the steward on the boat. It’s a wonderful thing, it’s the boys’ trip and we’ve been doing it for five years.
Knowledge Bar A Renaissance Man Co-founder and professor, University of Botswana law school Professor of Medical Law, University of Edinburgh (now Emeritus Professor) Former chariman, British Medical Journal Ethics Committee Former member, International Bioethics Committee of UNESCO Former vice-chairman, Human Genetics Commission, UK Co-founder, The Really Terrible Orchestra Author of librettos for various operas and operettas Newspaper columnist Published and acclaimed author of fiction for both adults and children Commissioned The Great Tapestry of Scotland, 2010
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“I decided five years ago I wanted to have more fun, so I phoned up five or six friends and said “Would you like to come to the Caribbean?”
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It all sounds very exciting. Oh it’s great, going off for two weeks, it’s like a wonderful exciting adventure! We were almost shipwrecked in Greece, we were hit by a terrible storm and we had a narrow escape. Do you use your travels to inspire and inform your writing? To an extent… I don’t specifically go to places with a view to exploring them for writing, but it does happen. So, I will often set things in places where I’ve been. I’ve spent quite a lot of time in recent years in Australia, and Australia has occurred in a few of my books. So yes, I’m often inspired by my surroundings. Your writing is set in many different locations around the world. Do you feel more like an international citizen, as opposed to rooted in one place? Well, I’ve travelled very widely and I’ve lived in various countries. I’ve spent most of my life in Scotland, but I spent my childhood years in the middle of Africa, hence the Botswana books. I’ve lived briefly in Ireland, and I spent periods in the United States and Italy and elsewhere. So, I naturally just feel myself inclined to set the books in different places, although most of them I would set in Scotland, I suppose Scotland would be the locus for many of them. Of course, my Botswana books is my longest series that I’ve written, and is 19 volumes so far. And I’ve set others in Africa, and some in Australia. So I’ve found myself naturally drawn to writing about rather different places.
As you say, you grew up in Africa, but you have since settled in Scotland, for the most part. Why is that? Well, Scotland is my home. I’ve lived most of my life here and my family is here and this is where I see myself. I wouldn’t wish to live anywhere else, really. I mean I could live elsewhere, I suppose… What was your motivation for buying the collection of Hebridean islands? I bought the group of islands just north of Coll – uninhabited islands, a group of about 14 of them, they’re small, the biggest one’s about 50 acres – to look after them, because I didn’t want anything to happen to them. Because they’re so beautiful, I’m just holding those so that people can enjoy them, so nothing is going to happen. As well as novels, you’ve written some librettos for various operas and operettas. Tell us more about those. I very much like writing with composers. I did an opera called The Okavango Macbeth – a full length opera. And then recently, in April of this year, we had the premier for a new operetta for which I’d done the libretto called The Tumbling Lassie. They’re going to do a five day run of that at The Fringe in August. I enjoyed that. Where do you find inspiration for writing your librettos? Well, the Macbeth opera was an odd one because it was the central Macbeth story of the ambitious woman, but set in a troop of baboons in Botswana, because baboons have a hierarchical structure which lends itself to that. So that was very unusual. And then I’ve done one called Fergus of Galloway which is about an early Scottish figure who was a sort of knight and went on all sorts of adventures, and that was a romantic tale of the 12th century.
Being so prolific, you’ve obviously created many characters. How do you go about naming each of them – does the name inspire the character, or vice versa? The name might occasionally occur before the character. Little Bertie, in my Scotland Street books, he’s got a great friend called Ranald Braveheart Macpherson. Having called him that, I then made him into this little boy with spindly legs, which was such a wonderful contrast to his name. And Bertie’s nemesis, so to speak, she’s called Olive and her side-kick is called Pansy, and there’s a nasty little boy called Tofu, whose parents are well-known vegans. Names usually occur when the character first comes to mind. Occasionally I will have to think up a name for a character. And, in the case of my Botswana books, I will look at the Botswana newspapers to find names, because they have some lovely and unusual names. And what about your own name – do we call you Alexander, or Sandy?! My name is Alexander, but I’m always called Sandy, which is common for a man named Alexander. But in America it’s mainly a woman’s name. Because Alexander can be shortened into so many different forms. I write as Alexander and it’s the official name, but everybody calls me Sandy and that’s what I call myself. Eck is another version – you can shorten Alexander to Eck. There was a character in one of the D.C. Thompson comics, Oor Wullie, called Wee Eck, and his pal was Soapy Soutar.
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“I've yet to meet anybody who's got beyond 18!”
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As you’ve already mentioned, you’re great friends with Charlie MacLean. Does that mean you get to try lots of nice whiskies? Yes, it’s great good fortune in life to be friendly with Charlie MacLean. And we do go back a very, very long time – I’m godfather to his middle boy. So we are very, very good friends. We didn’t quite study together, but I knew him in those days. And Charlie has certainly taught me anything I know about whisky, and I don’t know a great deal, but anything I do know I’ve learnt through conversation with Charlie. I’ve always enjoyed going to his nosings – if he does a nosing of whisky, it’s fascinating. I like the vocabulary that he uses. I like that the vocabulary of whisky, as you know, is rather different to the vocabulary of wine. Whisky is broader in its reach, I think, the terms. So Charlie will use lovely terms like “This smells like the leather upholstery of an old Rover car” or “wet straw” or “diesel fumes” or something. So it’s a very honest vocabulary. He’s got good olfactory memory. He’s one of these people who I think can translate the sense, his sense of smell, into words. You and Charlie both studied law, but you – in conjunction with your career in ethics and law – have ended up writing fiction, and he’s ended up in whisky. There’s a romantic, storytelling similarity there, which seems at odds with your studies. I see what you mean, although I think law is a very interesting discipline in that it’s about human nature. And the law sits on all aspects on human life, from relatively straight-forward uses, such as property, to relations between people. Law is involved in all aspects of human life and human transactions. So, it shouldn’t be surprising that lawyers should be interested in narrative, because if you look at a law report it’s a narrative, and how this is going to be resolved. And of course, there’s a certain precedence for lawyers who become authors, who become writers. Walter Scott is an instance of that.
Do you think your objectivity as a legal professional has informed the way you write? It might; I think that you have to have a great deal of subjectivity in fiction, because you’re talking about the experiences and thoughts of these other people, even if they are fictional characters. So you have to empathise with them, and have to put yourself in their shoes and look at the world through the eyes of your characters. If you want to have characters of any depth, you need to do that. But, at the same time, I think that a legal training actually assists you in the ordering of your thoughts, and in looking at the world in a particular way and seeing the elements of which the world is composed. Because when you’re looking at a human situation from a legal point of view, you’re analysing a certain concept, and the relations between people are put into categories and understood according to a structure that you impose on it. And I think that’s what authors do as well, to an extent, that’s what fiction authors do. You also want to tell the story in a logical, coherent way, which is what you do in the law. The law’s about that as well, it’s about logical coherent narration of what might be very complicated human circumstances. —
Alexander McCall Smith celebrates the 20th anniversary of the first publication of his No.1 Ladies’ Detective Agency this year. For news about his upcoming appearances and latest works, including his online Story Calendar, visit alexandermccallsmith.co.uk.
Knowledge Bar Alexander McCall Smith Biography Born in Bulawayo in August 1948 in the British colony of South Rhodesia (present day Zimbabwe) Moves to Scotland aged 17 to study law at University of Edinburgh Teaches at Queen’s University Belfast Settles in Edinburgh with wife Elizabeth in 1984 Published the first novel in his No.1 Ladies Detective Agency in 1998 Appointed a CBE in the New Year’s Honours List (Dec. 2006) Purchases the Cairns of Coll (remote Hebridean islands) 2014
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“I like that the vocabulary of whisky, as you know, is rather different to the vocabulary of wine. Whisky is broader in its reach.�
70/ The Whisky Shop Exclusives 71/ August Bank Holiday 72/ Hunter Laing 74/ Bonfire Night 76/ Halloween 78/ Customer Favourites 90/ Directory
The Whisky Shop
Autumn 2018
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The Whisky Shop Exclusives ➛ We’re proud to stock a selection of whiskies exclusive to The Whisky Shop. From limited edition bottlings to old and rare whiskies, single cask single malts to singularly superb blends, these whiskies are for our customers only.
The GlenDronach 1993
Vintage Sherry Cask The Whisky Shop Exclusive – 70CL | 51% VOL | £210 What is it? Described by Charles MacLean in our summer 2018 New Releases as “a superlative example of sherry cask maturation” this single cask expression has been selected by and bottled exclusively for The Whisky Shop. Distilled in 1993, it is an impressive 25 years old, and a great testament to The GlenDronach’s dedication to perfecting this style.
What’s it like? Charles MacLean’s official note: “The colour of Oloroso sherry, with magenta lights; excellent beading. A profoundly rich aroma of moist Xmas cake (complete with waxed paper wrapper and waxed candles), liberally doused with sherry; mellow and inviting. A voluptuous texture and a rich, tannic taste with dried fruits and dark chocolate”.
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‘…a superlative example of sherry cask maturation’
Kilchoman 2007
Highland Park 2006
– 70CL | 56.5% VOL | £115
– 70CL | 67% VOL | £95
What is it? A single cask expression from Islay’s farm distillery, distilled on 20th July 2007 and matured in a bourbon cask (#150/2007) for almost eleven years before bottling on 11th June 2018. This whisky has been bottled at a natural cask strength of 56.5%VOL, with just 238 bottles produced.
What is it? A special whisky, as it is the very first one selected via tasting panel under the relaunched W Club. Recipients were sent two drams of cask strength Highland Park and asked to vote for their favourite. They chose cask #2132, distilled in 2006 and matured in a first refill American oak sherry puncheon. It’s presented at a hearty 67%VOL.
The Whisky Shop Exclusive
What’s it like? The nose has waves of smoke combined with layers of spice, vanilla and fresh citrus. The palate brings honey, tropical fruits, butterscotch, earthy malt and further layers of smoke. The finish has a whisper of peat smoke with tangy orange and hints of liquorice.
The W Club Exclusive
What’s it like? Prickly on the nose to begin, followed by rich fruit aromas and just a hint of fragrant smoke (as is classic to Highland Park). The flavour mingles a maritime influence with marzipan sweetness, coconut and peat, starting sweet before a surprisingly dry finish. Find Charles MacLean’s full review in New Releases.
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August Bank Holiday ➛ The August Bank Holiday weekend presents a fantastic opportunity to bask in the last of the summer sun, free from the worries of work, before the colder nights set in. And what better to accompany you than a curiously refreshing whisky cocktail? We’ve selected our favourite whiskies for mixing, to help inspire your bank holiday tipples.
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Shackleton Blended Malt
The Loch Fyne Blend
Johnnie Walker Blue Label
– 70CL | 40% VOL | £40
– 50CL | 40% VOL | £24
– 70CL | 40% VOL | £150
What is it? In the early 20th century, Sir Ernest Shackleton led one of the most famous expeditions to the Antarctic, overcoming tremendous obstacles to ensure that his men returned home safely. Shackleton ordered 25 cases of Mackinlay's Rare Old Highland Malt Whisky to take on his 1907 expedition; in 2007, eleven intact bottles containing this perfectly preserved whisky were recovered from under the ice beneath Shackleton's base camp. Inspired by Shackleton's story, Master Blender, Richard Paterson, has recreated this lost whisky in a personal and deeply felt project.
What is it? Drawing on knowledge gained from visitors to their Inveraray store over almost a quarter of a century, Loch Fyne Whiskies created what they affectionately term “the malt drinker’s blend”.
What is it? The rare casks used in the blending of Johnnie Walker Blue Label are drawn from the largest reserves of whisky in the world. The casks are hand-selected and set aside for their exceptional quality, character and flavour. They are truly special, with only 1 in 10,000 containing whisky of sufficient character to deliver its remarkably smooth signature taste.
What’s it like? Building on his recreation of Mackinlay's Rare Old Highland Malt, Richard Paterson has combined the best Highland malt whiskies and allowed them to marry over a long period. This has resulted an enigmatic blended malt with a dash of body and a whisper of smoke. With complex notes of vanilla, honey and orchard fruits, the whisky has real warmth and depth, much like Shackleton himself.
W Shackleton Blended Malt …an enigmatic blended malt with a dash of body and a whisper of smoke.
What’s it like? Ripe green apples mingle with vanilla and honey on the nose, followed by nectar and floral notes reminiscent of a summer orchard. The palate is initially sweet, with the same honey and apple notes emerging, accompanied by a gentle spice towards the surprisingly long finish.
What’s it like? This is a big flavoured whisky that reflects the Walker family's belief that neither whisky age alone, nor whisky from a single location, is enough to achieve the creation of an unrivalled masterpiece today. Expect a perfect balance of smoke and floral, honeyed and spicy notes, dried fruits and nuttiness.
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Hunter Laing
➛ Three generations of the Laing family have honed their skills in sourcing the finest whiskies from Scotland, and the international reputation they’ve gained is richly deserved. Among others, we stock their First Editions range of accessible single cask malts, the now famous Old Malt Cask range, The Sovereign range of rare and highly desirable single grain whiskies, and their Platinum Old & Rare selection of outstanding single malts.
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Craigellachie 10 Year Old ‘…a ‘manager’s special’ chosen by Simone, who heads up The Whisky Shop, London Paternoster.
The First Editions Ben Nevis 2011 Sherry Cask
The First Editions Craigellachie 2008 Old Sherry Cask
– 70CL | 46% VOL | £70
– 70CL | 46% VOL | £70
What is it? Hailing from one of Scotland’s oldest distilleries, nestled at the foot of the country’s highest peak, this whisky was distilled in 2011 and matured for seven years in a sherry butt before bottling in 2018. It is limited to just 885 bottles.
What is it? This single cask expression is a ‘manager’s special’ chosen by Simone, who heads up The Whisky Shop, London Paternoster. Craigellachie is the Speyside distillery with a signature ‘sulphury’ style; this whisky, distilled in 2008, has been matured in a sherry hogshead to complement that character, and is limited to just 264 bottles.
What’s it like? A rich and fruity nose with sherry notes, herbs, tea and walnuts leading to a fruity palate with more sherry, oranges and a hint of honey and spice. The finish is at first sweet with blood oranges before turning pleasantly bitter.
What’s it like? Vanilla custard, white pepper and dusty malt with citric aromas on the nose. The palate reveals sweet toffee, light fresh oak spices, bourbon style and walnuts, while the finish promises more fresh oak, vanilla and liquorice.
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The First Editions Miltonduff 2009 Sherry Cask
The First Editions Talisker 2010 Sherry Cask
– 70CL | 46% VOL | £65
– 70CL | 46% VOL | £89
What is it? Typified by a fresh and floral new make character, Miltonduff is an oft overlooked Speyside gem. Limited to only 302 bottles, this 8 year old expression was distilled in 2009 and finished in an ex-sherry cask for extra depth of character.
What is it? The Isle of Skye’s Talisker distillery is famed for its distinctive whiskies ‘made by the sea’. This seven year old expression is a beautiful example of their ‘house’ style, and has been matured in a sherry butt to complement the maritime character with waves of sweetness. It is limited to just 810 bottles.
What’s it like? A rich and fruity nose with blackcurrants, plums and honey leading to a soft yet spicy palate with cinnamon, malted barley and Christmas pudding. Long, sweet and satisfying on the finish.
What’s it like? A fresh and maritime nose with hints of peat and pepper and sweet liquorice. The palate is with sweet fruits and peat, more maritime and salty while the finish is long and sweet with smoke, ashes and a drop of citrus.
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Bonfire Night ➛ On 5th November 1605, Guy Fawkes – a member of the Gunpowder Plot – was caught guarding explosives intended to assassinate King James VI of Scotland & I of England. To celebrate the king’s survival of this attempt on his life, London residents lit bonfires around the city and, soon, a national holiday was instated to mark the event, with bonfires becoming a traditional part of the celebrations. Of course, real bonfires aren’t always practical, however we think it’s a great excuse to indulge in some deliciously smoky firewater!
W The Loch Fyne
The Living Cask 1745 Liquid Gold Award Winner
The Loch Fyne The Living Cask 1745
The Glenrothes Peated Cask Reserve
– 50CL | 43.6% VOL | £75
– 70CL | 40% VOL | £45
What is it? The name 1745 is a nod to the year that the historic town of Inveraray – home to Loch Fyne Whiskies, and so The Living Cask itself – was founded. This expression contains 100% Islay single malts, married together perfectly to produce a terrific whisky that is a permanent expression from the brand, and an ode to their customers’ drinking preference.
What is it? Inspired by their distillery’s history and an early association with the Islay Distillery Co., dating back to 1887, the team at Glenrothes have created this unusual expression. Marking a departure from their expected Speyside style, this whisky has been matured in casks hailing from the peaty lands of Islay.
What’s it like? A Liquid Gold award-winning whisky, described by Jim Murray as “an intriguing two-toned nose… one side, offers firm smokiness giving further edge to the unyielding malts; … the other angle is a complete softie…! The delivery takes the path of the second option… an immediate eiderdown softness on delivery but doesn’t duck out of juicy and, at times, forceful barleysugar then Fisherman's Friend notes… all very sweet shop… remains silky; now with a few spices joining the rolling smoke”.
What’s it like? Mid-gold in colour, this expression begins with a bouquet of nettles, new leather, peat, nutmeg and white wine. More peat smokiness emerges on the palate, accompanied by light vanilla, spices and lemony citrus peel. The finish is spicy and lingering.
Ardbeg Exploration Pack – 70CL + 2X5CL | VARIOUS % VOL | £52 What is it? This fantastic gift pack allows you to explore different sides of Islay's Ardbeg distillery with a 70cl bottle of the iconic 10 year old and 5cl miniatures of Corryvreckan and Uigeadail. Ardbeg 10 Year Old is considered by some to be the peatiest, smokiest, most complex single malt of them all. What’s it like? Ardbeg 10 Year Old is intensely peaty, but this does not overpower the more subtle flavours of smoky fruits, citrus juice and spiced toffee, and gives way to the natural sweetness of the malt, with an incredibly long lasting, smoky finish. The Corryvreckan is intense and powerful, with lots of salt and tar, but also appealing dark chocolate sweetness, rich red fruits and muscovado sugar, black pepper and espresso. The Uigeadail is an amazingly complex balance between fruit flavours, spice and smoke, with a rich, deep flavour and mouth-coating texture thanks to sherry cask maturation.
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Highland Park Fire – 70CL | 45.2% VOL | £210 What is it? The second and final bottle in the Norse mythology special edition bottlings from Highland Park, Fire Edition is a 15 year old expression, and the first whisky from the Orkney distillery to be matured in port wine seasoned casks. Exploring the destruction and re-birth of the world at the hands of Surtr, the Fire Giant, each bespoke crimson tinted glass bottle is presented in a black wooden cradle along with a booklet tracing the epic battle of the Gods. What’s it like? The nose is vibrant and intense with red fruits and warm vanilla complementing the bittersweet cinnamon and devilishly rich dark chocolate. Light smoke and citrus peel temper the vanilla on the palate, while sharp damsons and spice emerge. A long and sweet finish with fruity spices lingering.
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Halloween ➛ All Hallows’ Eve festivities are widely believed to originate from ancient Celtic Harvest Festivals, in particular the Gaelic Samhain and Brythonic Calan Gaeaf festivals. Of course, these days we associate the holiday more with black magic and devilish folklore. Whichever roots you observe, whisky surely has its place, both as a product of a bountiful harvest, and also a drink steeped in mysterious history and wicked folklore.
Highland Park The Dark
Bruichladdich Black Art 6
Laphroaig Lore
– 70CL | 52.9% VOL | £190
– 70CL | 46.9% VOL | £280
– 70CL | 48% VOL | £89
What is it? A special release of just 28,000 bottles, and an ode to the winter solstice celebration on Orkney. This limited edition expression from Highland Park has been matured in European oak sherryseasoned casks for 17 years to deliver a deep and distinctive flavour, and is presented in a beautifully embossed black glass bottle, featuring a serpent dragon design inspired by the great Norse sagas.
What is it? This 6th edition in the cryptic Black Art series from Bruichladdich is crafted from an undisclosed combination of casks distilled in 1990. Aged for 26 years and bottled at a cask strength of 46.9%VOL, this Islay single malt is limited to just 18,000 bottles, each one individually numbered.
What is it? Since 1815, each Laphroaig Distillery Manager has been the custodian of the craft to make the richest single malt in the world. Over the years, each has passed on their skills and traditions to the next generation to continue this legacy. To honour this passing of knowledge, the Laphroaig Distillery Manager John Campbell has created Laphroaig Lore, the richest ever Laphroaig.
What’s it like? Presented at a natural cask strength of 52.9%VOL, with no added colouring, this whisky is a deep russet colour. The flavour is packed with dried fruits, cinnamon, toasted almonds, cedar wood, and fruitcake, overlaid with hints of smoky peat.
W Highland Park The Dark
Matured in European oak sherryseasoned casks for 17 years
What’s it like? The nose is rich in charred oak, blackberry jam, dark chocolate and raisins with notes of marzipan, lemon meringue pie and cedar wood following. The palate has soft orchard fruits, vanilla custard, raisins, dates and dark chocolate, before layers of honeycomb, praline, tobacco and coconut emerge. The velvety finish has exotic fruits and sweet oak lingering.
What’s it like? Rich and deep with distinctive smoke, peat and seaside minerality – this expression is unmistakably Laphroaig. This is a result of liquid being drawn from a selection of casks including first fill sherry butts, smaller quarter casks and their most precious stock, capturing the timeless passion and very essence of the Laphroaig Distillery.
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Johnnie Walker Ghost & Rare with Port Ellen
and seven rare whiskies – 70CL | 43.8% VOL | £TBC What is it? The second release in the Johnnie Walker Ghost & Rare series, which puts the spotlight firmly on the silent, ghost and rare distilleries in Diageo’s vast portfolio. This expression features liquid from silent distillery Port Ellen and ghost distilleries Caledonian and Carsebridge, blended with ‘incredibly rare’ liquid from Blair Athol, Cragganmore, Dailuaine, Mortlach and Oban. What’s it like? To quote Johnnie Walker Master blender, Jim Beveridge: “The creamy vanilla sweetness of the grains, partnered with the rolling waves of citrus, rich malt and tropical fruit flavours of the malts, all perfectly balance the distinctive maritime smokiness of Port Ellen”.
Kill Devil Dark Overproof Rum
Kill Devil 11 Year Old Panama Rum
Kelso Gin Co.: The Crow Man's Gin
– 70CL | 57% VOL | £49
– 70CL | 51.2% VOL | £94
– 70CL | 40% VOL | £54
What is it? A deliciously dark rich blend of the finest Guyana and Jamaica rums, aged for added smoothness and depth of character in selected white oak casks. This rum is bottled at a powerful 57% abv in a nod to the Royal Navy’s old ‘gunpowder strength’ qualification, making it great for use in cocktails or simply served neat over ice.
What is it? A single cask rum, distilled in Panama in 2006 and aged for 11 years, before being bottled at a brave 51.2%VOL. Only 264 bottles of this punchy rum have been produced, and bottled independently by Hunter LaIng.
What is it? The flagship gin from the Kelso Gin Company in the Scottish Borders, this botanical creation combines classic juniper with cinnamon, angelica and other secret botanicals. The name gives a nod to the costumes of 17th Century Plague doctors, whose organic tinctures have also inspired the ingredients chosen. What’s it like? An incredibly smooth gin with soft vanilla and aromatic lavender on the nose. The classic flavour of ripe, peppery juniper is joined by a hint of warm ginger, cinnamon spice and angelica. Delicious drunk neat, over ice, or with a mixer of your choice.
What’s it like? Hot on the nose with intense tropical fruitness: blackened banana, pineapple sweeties, peaches and citrus zest. Deep demerara, liquorice and cigar smoke are also evident. The palate is potent and the texture mouth-coating, as you’d expect from an overproof rum, with more of the caramelised banana and pineapple from the nose, accompanied by chocolate and coffee bean flavours.
What’s it like? Orchard fruits and a hint of menthol on the nose give way to full-on baking spice and zesty pineapple on the palate. These are followed by earthier flavours –cigar box, oak – as well as papaya, green herbs and toffee.
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Customer Favourites ➛ The whiskies our customers love provide a happy hunting ground for shoppers. From the smoky Islays to sumptuously sherried drams and everything in-between, there is something here for everyone. We’ve grouped these whiskies by flavour profile, to help you find your favourites from the range.
W Rich/ Sweet
Glen Scotia 15 Year Old
Glen Moray 15 Year Old Elgin Heritage
The GlenDronach 12 Year Old
– 70CL | 46% VOL | £63
– 70CL | 40% VOL | £55
– 70CL | 43% VOL | £46
Campbeltown is firmly back on the Scotch map as a significant destination for whisky lovers, and no distillery is representing the area better than Glen Scotia. This 15 year old expression is a triumph of flavour, with everything from citrus to oak, ginger snaps to apricots, and a hint of caramel packed into every bottle. Unlike many of its Campbeltown contemporaries, Glen Scotia is available year-round, so you’ll never have to do without your new favourite dram!
Unquestionably Speyside in character, Glen Moray’s Elgin Heritage Collection showcases carefully matured, complex and well-rounded whiskies influenced by the unique Elgin climate. This 15 year old single malt is aged in a combination of sherry and American oak casks, which impart hints of spice, heady dried fruits and dark chocolate flavours. Expect sherried oak and butter toffee on the nose, followed by an indulgent full-bodied palate with sweetly spiced dark chocolate and fine wine. The finish is long and rich.
A signature single malt from the distillery famous for its richly sherried offering, and an awardwinning expression at that; no wonder The GlenDronach 12 retains its status as a favourite amongst our customers! Matured in both Pedro Ximénez and Oloroso sherry casks, it is imbued with an indulgent portfolio of flavours – stewed fruits, jam, marmalade, nuts and brown sugar all vie for attention – with a faint charcoal smokiness weaving through over time.
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The GlenDronach 18 Year Old Allardice
The Glenrothes Sherry Cask Reserve
Oban Distillers Edition
Benrinnes 15 Year Old
– 70CL | 46% VOL | £95
– 70CL | 40% VOL | £57
– 70CL | 43% VOL | £79
– 70CL | 43% VOL | £52
Created using waters from the Dronac Burn, this a superbly complex single malt made in the characteristic ‘big sherry’ style. An ode to James Allardice, who founded the distillery and produced the very first drops of ‘guid Glendronach’, this expression has been matured in the finest Oloroso sherry casks. Rich and dark, it promises remarkable depth of flavour with stewed fruits and allspice.
Maturation in custom-made sherry casks from Jerez, southern Spain (despite costing around five times as much as American ex-bourbon equivalents), gives this whisky a unique, dried fruit and resinous character that underpins the sherry top notes. Expect orange peel, fruitcake, vanilla, gingerbread, black cherries and pear drops on the nose, ginger, spice and oaky notes with an explosion of crème brûlée on the palate.
A seriously complex whisky of the highest order. Each expression of Oban Distillers Edition undergoes double maturation in casks that have previously held a fortified wine. The distillery’s entrepreneurial founders – who specialised in importing ‘in demand’ goods – would’ve approved of the Spanish influence brought to bear in this Montilla Fino cask wood finish, which boasts a signature salty smokiness along with walnut, orange citrus and an identifiable, crowd-pleasing sherry character.
Another expression from the Flora & Fauna series, this whisky hails from a long-established Speyside distillery with a tumultuous history. Despite fire, flood, world wars and financial issues, Benrinnes has survived to produce a style of ‘sultry’ Speyside whisky that is always well-rounded and intriguing. This fantastically sweet, smooth 15 year old example is packed with estery characteristics subsumed in its dark aromas.
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Customer Favourites ➛ The whiskies our customers love provide a happy hunting ground for shoppers. From the smoky Islays to sumptuously sherried drams and everything in-between, there is something here for everyone. We’ve grouped these whiskies by flavour profile, to help you find your favourites from the range.
W Rich/ Sweet
Blair Athol 12 Year Old
The Dalmore 12 Year Old
The Dalmore 15 Year Old
– 70CL | 43% VOL | £67
– 70CL | 40% VOL | £50
– 70CL | 40% VOL | £50
Established in 1798 in picturesque Pitlochry, Blair Athol is one of Scotland’s oldest working distilleries, and produces the signature malt of the famous Bell's blend. This is one of only a few official bottlings ever produced from Blair Athol, and part of the Flora & Fauna series: a collection highlighting the diversity of Scotland's whisky regions. Walnuts and sherry on the nose lead to cinnamon and orangecitrus on the palate, with the richness of fruitcake completing this delightful dram.
It’s not surprising that our former Whisky of The Year retains its status as a firm favourite amongst The Whisky Shop customers. To recap for those who haven’t yet dipped a toe into The Dalmore portfolio, this single malt is a Highland triumph displaying signs of sherry wood maturation: full-bodied, thick, sweet and ‘muscular’. Leathery notes and a long spicy finish add finesse and make this popular dram an absolute must try.
Matured for 15 years in a trio of ex-sherry casks, as well as exbourbon barrels, The Dalmore’s 15 Year Old is another core range whisky for your bucket list. A stylistic evolution from The Dalmore’s famous 12 Year Old and just as popular, you can expect a similarly varied profile of chocolate orange sweetness, gentle spice and rich warmth. It’s a true testament to the distillery’s creative and ambitious approach.
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The BenRiach 21 Year Old
Jura Seven Wood
Arran 10 Year Old
Highland Park 18 Year Old Viking Pride
– 70CL | 46% VOL | £139
– 70CL | 42% VOL | £59
– 70CL | 46% VOL | £45
– 70CL | 43% VOL | £110
Matured in a combination of bourbon barrels, virgin oak casks, red wine casks and Pedro Ximenéz Sherry casks for a minimum of 21 years, this stand-out Speyside expression is a real showstopper. Expect layers of spicy fruit and warming oak aromas spiked with zesty tropical fruits on the nose, followed by a sherry-driven palate with chocolate and raisin accompanied by lemon zest and shortbread. The finish is long with hints of rye and sweet caramel. Great for landmark birthdays!
A more recent introduction not only to our Customer Favourites, but to the world, Seven Wood was launched through The Whisky Shop in March 2018. Crafted with a combination of seven cask types – American white oak ex-bourbon, Vosges, Jupilles, Les Bertranges, Allier, Traonçais, and Limousin barrels – it opens with light peach and a hint of smoke on the nose. The palate is balanced with a great depth of flavour; liquorice and candied orange emerge, before a subtle smoke descends in the finish.
The classic expression of the Arran Malt, this 10 year old captures the fresh and unique island style of the western isle's eponymous distillery and is a multi-award winner, taking gold at both The China Wine & Spirits Best Value Awards 2014 and San Francisco World Spirits Competition 2012. Rich vanilla sweetness gives way to cinnamon on the nose, with a soft and sweet texture that takes on a spicy edge. The palate is sweet with apple and citrus against a background of oak.
One of the most awarded whiskies of all time, the Highland Park 18 year old demonstrates harmony, refinement and complexity. Layers of honeyed sweetness and delicious hints of chocolate-coated cherries are joined by a subtle top-note of aromatic peat smoke. The beautifully balanced flavour is down to Highland Park’s five traditional keystones of production, and it is a real favourite amongst our staff!
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Customer Favourites ➛ The whiskies our customers love provide a happy hunting ground for shoppers. From the smoky Islays to sumptuously sherried drams and everything in-between, there is something here for everyone. We’ve grouped these whiskies by flavour profile, to help you find your favourites from the range.
W Light/ Floral
anCnoc 12 Year Old
Balblair 2005
Balblair 2000
– 70CL | 40% VOL | £44
– 70CL | 46% VOL | £56
– 70CL | 46% VOL | £80
A whisky whose name isn’t taken directly from its home distillery, anCnoc comes from the Highland Knockdhu Distillery. Established in 1894 as the perfect embodiment of a modern distillery, Knockdhu lies on the border of Speyside and produces light, intriguing, forward-thinking whisky. Matured in a combination of ex-bourbon, sherry and second-fill American oak casks, this expression is delicate yet complex, smooth yet challenging, and universally loved for it!
The first release of the 2005 expression from Balblair – who mark themselves out by bottling by vintage, rather than age. Matured in ex-bourbon casks, there’s definite honey and vanilla present in this delicately sweet dram. The nose is all oaky vanilla and citrus with a suggestion of fragrant cut flowers. The palate is reminiscent of citrus and orchard fruits that lift the intense sweetness and lead to a delectably long, spicy finish.
Something of a ‘millennium baby’, this whisky was matured for 12 and a half years in American exbourbon oak before four years in first-fill Spanish oak butts. Bottled in 2017, free from chill-filtration and artificial colouring, it promises a nose rich in seasoned oak, baked apples, fruitcake and vanilla, with some ripe tropical fruits. The palate introduces spices and old hardwood, building to pineapple, orange peel and honey, before emerging sweetness heralds a creamy, dark chocolatey finish.
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Glen Moray 12 Year Old Elgin Heritage
Auchroisk 10 Year Old
Loch Lomond 12 Year Old
– 70CL | 40% VOL | £43
– 70CL | 43% VOL | £48
– 70CL | 46% VOL | £45
This Speyside single malt is aged in the finest American oak for 12 years, lending it a delicious toasty character. Look forward to rich floral notes and vanilla toffee on the nose, with berry fruits and freshly cut herbs. The palate has toasted oak and more sublime summer fruits for a mellow sweetness, before a sweet, subtly oaky finish.
The Auchroisk 10 Year Old is part of Diageo’s Flora & Fauna Series, which consists of 26 different Scotch single malt whiskies from their lesser known distilleries – typically those which predominantly supply liquid for blends, rather than single malt releases. Auchroisk itself is a relatively young Speyside distillery, built in the 70s, and draws natural waters from Dorries Well to produce smooth, subtle whisky. This 10 year old expression is pleasantly light, with a balance of delicate sweetness and fresh flavours before a short finish.
An eponymous whisky from the innovative distillery on the bonnie banks, where different stills are used to create a stunning variety of single malts. This core range expression – bursting with orchard and citrus fruits, cereal and biscuit sweetness, then wood smoke and a peaty tang – has already enchanted the taste buds of Jim Murray, who claimed he’s “never seen spice quite like it, or such a sublime balance with the fruity malt”. High praise indeed.
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Customer Favourites ➛ The whiskies our customers love provide a happy hunting ground for shoppers. From the smoky Islays to sumptuously sherried drams and everything in-between, there is something here for everyone. We’ve grouped these whiskies by flavour profile, to help you find your favourites from the range.
W Smoky
The BenRiach 10 Year Old Curiositas
Talisker 57º North
Talisker Port Ruighe
– 70CL | 40% VOL | £47
– 70CL | 57% VOL | £70
– 70CL | 45.8% VOL | £55
A Speyside peated malt may seem curious, but this BenRiach actually represents a return to original 19th century Speyside form. Peat richness is accomplished by using malted barley dried in the traditional way over peat infused kilns, achieving the optimum balance of peat-bittersweet and oak infusion after 10 years’ maturation. The undoubtedly peaty nose also promises fragrant honey, while the palate boasts peat smoke followed by a complex mix of heather, nuts, oak wood and spice.
Talisker is one of the most remote and northerly distilleries in production, calling the windswept and rugged Isle of Skye home. In a nod to its out-of-the-way origins, this whisky takes its name from the distillery’s latitudinal position. Drawn from 100% American oak casks, this NAS whisky has a purity which emphasizes Talisker’s unique and intense distillery character, bringing a balance of clean citrus and vanilla to the typically briny, smoky dram.
The whisky gurus at Talisker Distillery have taken their seminal Isle of Skye malt and finished it in ruby port casks to create the fantastically rich and fruity Port Ruighe. The nose moves from sea-spray to waxy aromas with a little sweetness. This is mirrored on the palate, with Talisker’s classic maritime character being rounded off and dramatically sweetened by the port finish. The finish includes cocoa and oak, with even a hint of citrus.
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Caol Ila Distillers Edition
Ailsa Bay
Bowmore 15 Year Old
– 70CL | 43% VOL | £75
– 70CL | 48.9% VOL | £60
– 70CL | 43% VOL | £67
A stylish, richly flavoured and complex expression from Islay’s much-loved Caol Ila Distillery. Following many years maturing in oak casks, this whisky has then been ‘double matured’ in Moscatel cask wood, hand-selected to complement the whisky’s sweetly fruity, smoky intensity. Expect cinnamon layered with orange and apple freshness, sweet malty biscuit flavours, and waves of classic Islay peat smoke.
A uniquely balanced single malt with a precise smoky and sweet profile, meticulously crafted in a state-of-the-art Lowland distillery. The nose is intense with smoky phenolic notes balanced by creamy, honey sweetness and... smoky bacon! The palate is zingy, promising a peaty kick layered again over beautiful sweetness – think crispy rashers with maple syrup – with the big finish following suit.
Matured in an inspired combination of both bourbon and sherry casks at the salty-sea-air infused Bowmore warehouses, it’s the final three years spent in Oloroso sherry casks that gives Bowmore 15 Years Old it’s sumptuously rich, deep colour. Exuding the aroma of delicious dark chocolate, sun-dried fruits and a characteristic wisp of Islay smoke, it is full bodied, rich and complex, and a no-brainer for Islay whisky fans.
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Whiskeria
Customer Favourites ➛ The whiskies our customers love provide a happy hunting ground for shoppers. From the smoky Islays to sumptuously sherried drams and everything in-between, there is something here for everyone. We’ve grouped these whiskies by flavour profile, to help you find your favourites from the range.
W Smoky
Port Charlotte 10 Year Old
Jura 18 Year Old
– 70CL | 44% VOL | £75
– 70CL | 44% VOL | £75
The flagship release in Bruichladdich's heavily peated range is distilled, matured and bottled on Islay, and is crafted using first-fill and second-fill American whiskey casks plus a proportion of second-fill French wine casks. The nose has characteristic Port Charlotte smoke, with sweeter caramel, fudge and vanilla custard alongside ginger, cloves and nutmeg. The palate is soft with a loose smoke and sweet coconut, vanilla, sherbet lemon and oak notes coming to the fore, with smoked oyster and sun-baked salty sand. The finish is smoky with banoffee pie, mango, apple and sweet malt.
The oldest addition to Jura’s new signature range, this 18 year old expression has been matured in American white oak ex-bourbon barrels and enriched by Premier Grand Cru Classé red wine barriques, and is bottled at 44% VOL for optimal flavour. The nose boasts sweet toffee and cinnamon spice. The palate is rich and full-bodied with Black Forest fruits and some smoky notes, before a bitter chocolate aspect and fresh espresso to finish.
Whiskeria
International Customer Favourites ➛ Introducing a selection of The Whisky Shop customers’ top expressions from outside of Scotland! Hailing from across the globe, our International Customer favourites not only represent an increased curiosity in non-Scotch drams, but also the growing trend for whisk(e)y distilling the world over.
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Maker's 46
Redbreast 12 Year Old
Green Spot
– 70CL | 47% VOL | £45
– 70CL | 40% VOL | £50
– 70CL | 40% VOL | £44
A ‘totally new kind of bourbon’, Maker’s 46 is crafted with seared French oak staves and matured in the coolest part of the beautifully situated Maker’s Mark Distillery, Kentucky. Named after its origin as the 46th recipe explored by its creators, this exceptionally smooth bourbon is an evolution from the standard Maker’s Mark expression, and a masterpiece of natural caramel, vanilla and spice flavours.
The first official reference to the brand name 'Redbreast' appears in August 1912, when Gilbeys were selling "Redbreast" J.J. Liqueur Whiskey 12 Years Old. The name 'Redbreast' itself refers to the bird, Robin Redbreast, and is attributed to the then Chairman of Gilbey's, who was an avid bird-fancier. This modern 12 Year Old expression is a single pot still whiskey full of aroma and flavour, benefitting from a strong contribution of distillates which have matured in Oloroso sherry casks, giving it its trademark Christmas cake character.
A non-age statement single pot still Irish whiskey comprised of pot still whiskeys aged between 7 and 10 years old. It has been matured in a combination of new and refill bourbon casks, as well as sherry casks. The nose is fresh with aromatic oils, spice and orchard fruits on a background of toasted wood. The flavour is spicy and fullbodied, with a hint of cloves and fruity sweetness of green apples, plus further toasted oak lading to a lingering spicy, barley finish.
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International Customer Favourites ➛ Introducing a selection of The Whisky Shop customers’ top expressions from outside of Scotland! Hailing from across the globe, our International Customer favourites not only represent an increased curiosity in non-Scotch drams, but also the growing trend for whisk(e)y distilling the world over.
Bulleit Bourbon 10 Year Old
Roe & Co
The Chita
– 70CL | 45.6% VOL | £49
– 70CL | 45% VOL | £35
– 70CL | 43% VOL | £58
Billed as ‘Tom Bulleit’s selected reserve’ this sublime whiskey was first aged in charred American white oak, before select Bulleit Bourbon barrels were set aside to age for a further 10 years. The result is a very special expression that promises a rich, deep, incredibly smooth-sipping experience. Deep russet in colour with rich oaky aromas, you can expect a consistently smooth taste with vanilla and dried fruit, before a long, smoky finish.
A premium blended Irish whiskey marrying single malt and single grain liquid in American oak exbourbon casks, a high percentage of which are first-fill. Developed by Master Blender, Caroline Martin, Prototype 106 was chosen to hold up in cocktails, as well as be enjoyed neat. Fragrant and rounded with soft spice, mellow spun sugar and warm, woody vanilla, the balance is immediately evident on the palate, with a velvety texture and sweetness including spiced pears and vanilla, then creaminess lingering in the finish.
The result of 40 years’ excellence in distilling, this single grain whisky hails from Japan’s revered House of Suntory. Traditionally used as the ‘dashi’ or broth that enhances Suntory blends, The Chita has finally achieved a level of sophistication that allows it to take centre stage. Expect crème brûlée, cardamom, acacia honey and rose blossoms on the nose. The palate is mild and smooth with subtle mint amidst a deep honey character. Clean and clear spiced oak with subtle bittersweet notes complete the finish.
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Tullamore D.E.W. 14 Year Old
Kavalan King Car Conductor
– 70CL | 41.3% VOL | £57
– 70CL | 46% VOL | £80
An Irish single malt triple distilled and matured in ex-bourbon casks for the majority of its life, before being finished in a selection of four specially chosen casks: bourbon, Oloroso sherry, port, and Madeira. The nose is fruity, with citrus, apple and mango atop rich honey and vanilla. The palate has fresh green fruits, toffee, cinnamon, nutmeg and a touch of ginger. The finish brings malty notes with some milk chocolate and a touch of spice.
The first release from Kavalan Distillery bearing the name of its parent company, King Car, this expression has been designed to showcase the diversity of what they can achieve. Bold and complex flavours, delicate aromas, and layer upon layer of background fruitiness do so wonderfully. Expect sweet, rich vanilla, banana and coconut, balanced by a surprising-yetwelcome bitterness in this pioneering Taiwanese whisky.
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Paris 7 Place de la Madeleine 75008 +33 1 45 22 29 77
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@mywclub Unlocking the mystery of whisky
CONVENTION TOLD US WE SHOULD EITHER MAKE PEATED OR UNPEATED SPEYSIDE SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY. WE IGNORED IT.
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Choose to drink responsibly. © 2018 The BenRiach is a registered trademark, all rights reserved. *Category winning products in the San Francisco World Spirits Competition 2017
created with Scottish coastal botanicals
Loch Fyne Whiskies | Inveraray | Argyll | PA32 8UD | t: 01499 302 219 (Shop) / 0800 107 1936 (Orders) e: info@lochfynewhiskies.com | www.lochfynewhiskies.com
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Whiskeria
Autumn 2018
Dear Uncle Ether
Uncle Ether Foreshot, whisky’s primary problem solver, helps three more troubled tipplers.
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Dear Uncle Ether, I have been with this wonderful man for 5 years. We are both divorcees with grown up families.
Dear Uncle Ether,
We have decided at last to move in together. The trouble is that the whiskies in his cabinet are cheap
I am a recent convert to single malt whisky and I am still finding my way. I’ve joined the army and I feel that being a whisky expert will give me a broader outlook than tanks and guns, which I like a lot. When I go to tastings everyone is so knowledgeable. This makes me hesitant to ask questions for fear of appearing stupid. I know this is not a stupid question, but just in case it is, can you tell me how cask strength whiskies get strong? Do they go to the gym, or what? I do. Gary Tankdriver
and easy drinking whereas mine are serious and collectable. I know that blended families are always a challenge, but I do worry that he will Dear Uncle Ether, I have lately discovered that my teenage son has been helping himself to the
up the bottles with water. Of course I am
be impressed by his superb taste in single malts. How should one proceed?
Diana with a dilemma
contents of my whisky cabinet, topping
disappointed, however I cannot help but
I am glad you have written to me and not spoken to anyone about this. Now, where do I begin? When we talk about the strength of whisky, Gary, it’s not the same as the strength in your arms and legs. Do you follow? And it’s not strong flavour either, although it can be. No, forget that bit. It’s the strength of the alcohol. When the master distiller completes a batch of distillation, he puts everything he has distilled into oak casks for maturation. At the same time he adds some water to dilute the distillate from around 80% vol to the high 60s. That’s been a tradition of whisky making for generations. When he is satisfied that it is ready for bottling, he has the option to add more water to bring it down to a minimum of 40% vol or bottle it as is. That, my boy is cask strength. All the best with your army career – keep away from the guns.
drink my whiskies and not appreciate them.
Ned from Newcastle
Well Ned, we’ve all been there. One little swig, just to taste – no one will notice. Then another, just to make sure. And “wow that was nice” and – woops, we have a problem! I cannot and must not condone underage drinking, but I am a strong believer in education with the hope that the ‘snowflake’ generation, as I think they are now called, will drink less and drink better. Whisky is at the heart of this concept because it’s not like a sweet cider or a strong beer that can be knocked back. It has to be sipped and appreciated. It has a strong taste that has to be acquired. So my advice is to lock the drinks cabinet and, when your son is of an age, sign him up for The W Club where he can attend regular tastings at The Whisky Shop. Yes, this is a blatant plug, but am I embarrassed?
Yes indeed, blending is an art not a science and in the world of whisky you would be amazed at how emotive the word ‘blend’ can be. Just mention it in the wrong company and you will have people spitting on the floor. “Blends are bad!”, they will all exclaim. “That’s what supermarkets sell!” they will recant. But the truth of the matter is the opposite. The art of a blend is to take the ying and the yang and make them into something beautiful. So too with your erstwhile new man. You must take his ying – confidently – and show him what to do. Don’t go straight to your limited edition cask strength treasure, that would be too easy. Make him work for it. Tease him, so to speak. What about a light and fruity Speyside, just to get the ball rolling? Then a more serious Highland – a Dalmore, for example. Maybe then have him step up to a Highland Park. Continue on that path until you are absolutely certain that you have his full attention. Then, and only then, reveal the cask strength Islay, that I am sure you have hidden in a safe place. Only at that point, let him have it! Good luck and bon voyage!
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Whiskeria
Spring 2018 Autumn 2018
Expert Tasting
Talisker 40 Year Old / The Macallan 26 Year Old Platinum Old & Rare Charles MacLean reviewsthe latest high-end releases from Talisker and Hunter Laing
Summer 2018
Expert Tasting
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Talisker 40 Year Old Island Single Malt Age: 40 Year Old
70CL Vol: 50%
£2750
Deep gold in colour with unusually good beading. A thick nose-feel with very light prickle. A fruity top note (pears in syrup, then orange peel), qualified by oiled sandalwood, salt air and iodine, on a base of faintly smoky raw sugar. A viscous, oily mouthfeel, becoming waxy. A taste which begins sweet, becoming salty and savoury, and finishes long and warming, with just a trace of Talisker’s key-note chilli spice and a hint of scented smoke. Snuffed candle in the aftertaste and a tingling sensation across the tongue.
J This is Talisker’s oldest ever general
release, limited to 2,000 bottles – and it is fabulous. It is also the first in Diageo’s ‘Bodega Series’ of ancient Taliskers, planned as annual expressions, each finished in very special ex-sherry butts sourced from the Jerez region of Andalucia.
The 1978 Talisker was finished in 40 years old Amontillado ex-solera casks from Delgado Zuleta of Sanlucar de Barrameda, which traces its history to 1719 and is the oldest winery in the Jerez region. A descendant of the founder married the glamorous sea captain, Don Jose Maria Delgado y Zuleta, in the late 19th century and the company took his name, soon becoming suppliers to the Royal House of Spain.
Sanlucar is, of course, renowned for its Manzanilla sherries, and as part of the launch of the Talisker at Gleneagles Hotel in early June we tasted a range of exquisite Manzanillas, including a 40 year old ‘Manzanilla Amontillado’ – I have to confess that I didn’t know such a sherry existed. Our Spanish host explained that Manzanilla (and Fino) sherries are biologically aged under a layer of flor yeast for between three and eight years, by which time the flor will have ceased to develop, since the yeast cannot find sufficient nutrients in the sherry to survive. Now it is Amontillado.
In most cases, the flor is killed by the addition of neutral spirit, but if it is left the sherry will slowly oxidise naturally, becoming richer and darker than Manzanilla, with more elegance and structure. Now it is Manzanilla Amontillado. The process has to be carefully monitored, but it lends itself to much longer maturation.
Why did Diageo choose Delgado? One reason was the meeting of the oldest bodega in Spain with the oldest distillery on Skye; another was the possibility of obtaining some sherry butts of equivalent age to the Talisker. What’s more, as Donald Colville, Global Brand Ambassador for Talisker, explained: “The ledgers in our extensive archive record of all the types of sherry cask used to mature Talisker going back to the early 1900s, and Delgado was a key supplier… The 1978 vintage pays homage to reimagining the flavours that were potentially being enjoyed back then.” Our Spanish host admitted that, when first approached, Delgado refused to supply such rare and precious casks. All sherry is made in a solera system, whereby the new wine is filled into barrels at the top level of the solera and is then transferred to progressively older casks below, level by level, each containing a proportion of older wine, until it reaches the oldest casks at the base of the solera – solera means ‘on the ground’ in Spanish – from where it is bottled. Typically, a proportion of the sherry is transferred annually; at each level it mingles with older sherry and takes on the mature characteristics of that wine. No barrel is ever drained. So it was hardly surprising that the Delgado sherry masters were reluctant to part with this 40 year old solera butt, however, after a visit to Skye, meeting Diageo’s master blenders and tasting some long-aged Talisker, they were at last persuaded. Donald Coliville went on to say: “The Delgado Zuleta expression, and the Bodega Series as a whole, combines the wildness of Skye with the warmth of Spain. It is a magnificent, lion-hearted old Talisker, rich with the sophistication of age, yet still full of life and retaining the make's familiar maritime and spicy character.”
Expert Tasting
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Whiskeria
Spring 2018 Autumn 2018
Platinum Old & Rare The Macallan 26 Year Old Single Cask Speyside Single Malt
70CL
Age: 26 Year Old
£1840
Vol: 55.2%
A fine amber colour with good beading. The nose is mellow and profound, with classic Macallan dried fruit scents (figs, dates, raisins), moistened with sherry on a tobacco base. The taste is sweet, drying in the long and lightly spicy finish. Water closes the aroma somewhat but adds a creamy texture to the taste. J Hunter Laing was formed in 2013,
following the break up of the long-established firm, Douglas Laing & Co (founded 1948), and is owned by Stewart Laing and his sons, Scott and Andrew. Stewart’s long experience and extensive stock of old whiskies makes it possible for the company to release a number of collections, including their top-ofthe-range Old & Rare collection of single casks of exceptional quality, bottled at cask strength. They write on their website: “Each bottling of Old & Rare has been matured to perfection, so due to the angels’ share there are comparatively few examples to emerge from each cask… Although each sip from an Old & Rare cask is an exquisite experience, the pleasure must be tempered with a little sorrow, due to the fact that such a taste can never be exactly replicated again.” During the 1980s and early 1990s, The Macallan used only a strain of barley called Golden Promise. This variety was introduced in 1966 and immediately became very popular with brewers and distillers, however, as is the way with barley, other varieties were developed to give a higher yield of alcohol. The Macallan stayed loyal to Golden Promise long after other distillers had abandoned it, believing that it made an important contribution to flavour – particularly to the mouth-feel or texture of the whisky. I can vouch for this, having tasted new make spirit from a single distillery (not The Macallan) made with a range of varieties with exotic names – Derkado, Chariot, Optic, Decanter – alongside spirit made with Golden Promise. The latter stood out noticeably! This 26 year old bottling, distilled in 1991, provides you with an opportunity to experience the delights of G.P.!
Refreshingly Different
Serve The Loch Fyne Chocolate & Orange Liqueur in a tall glass over ice, topped up with equal parts full fat milk and soda water, accompanied by a square of dark chocolate.
Loch Fyne Whiskies | Inveraray | Argyll PA32 8UD | t: 01499 302 219 (Shop) | 0800 107 1936 (Orders) | e: info@lochfynewhiskies.com | www.lochfynewhiskies.com