Whiskeria Spring 2017 by The Whisky Shop

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As I see it… Ian P Bankier

W “An important segment of consumers will continue in the pursuit of ‘the different’, because we have much more confidence in trying something new.”

—

Illustration: Francesca Waddell

As we set sail on another year, it’s interesting to cast a glance back at the road that has been travelled. As I do so, I am struck less by what has changed and more by the recent speed of change. What I see is that consumer drinking preferences now bear little resemblance to the past, as drinkers have become rapaciously interested in sampling new drinks and following new trends. Perhaps because we find ourselves at the sharp end of what’s new in whisky, we notice this more than others, but I do believe that we are in the midst of seismic change. If you go back to the 1960s and 1970s, Scotch was undoubtedly the national drink in Scotland and consumption was all about blends. Every regular drinker had his or her favourite brand and that would have been a lifetime choice. The same would apply to brands of cigarettes and even brands of petrol – you were either an Esso man or a Shell man! As the decade of the 1980s began unfolding, Scotch Single Malts, although very much in the minority, became prominent. They were emerging and they found favour with the cognoscenti – academics, scholars, Aberdonians! Although blends were still very much in command, they were beginning to take a few knocks. Whilst Grouse was progressively becoming middle class, Bells, the number one blend in Scotland, was beginning to panic at the prospect of dropping sales and an aging

demographic of drinker. They took a bold step and changed the blend from a fiery traditional ‘hard man’ recipe to something a lot smoother and, in their eyes, modern. Then they changed it again to a 12 Year old. Then they changed it back again! By the time the 90s were in swing, malts were certainly the talking point – Glenmorangie, Glenfiddich, Macallan and Highland Park were creating a following of avid fans. The Whisky Shop was born with its first branch in Edinburgh. To keep the sausage sizzling, Glenmorangie led with an array of cask finishes, and that was the first and early sign that variety would become the spice of life. In the first decade of the new millennium, more and more single malt distilleries were going down the consumer brand route. Distillers, who had quietly been producing excellent liquid for the trade, began promoting their own single malt labels – Bruichladdich, BenRiach, GlenDronach. The Whisky Shop and other independent specialist retailers were well established, and visitors to Scotland would be sure to return home with an interesting malt to commemorate their visit to Scotland. Then, as we entered the second decade of this century, the speed of change accelerated. Things that were previously seen as difficult or unlikely began to emerge. Small craft whisky distillers popped up in every part of the world. 4

Japanese whisky attracted an insatiable following. And gin – Mother’s Ruin – that had experienced static consumption for decades, went ballistic! So today we find in our stores a growing population of niche whiskies from craft distillers encompassing an assortment from Scotland, a clutch from France, some from India and Taiwan, Canada, the USA, Ireland and, of course, Japan. Add to that the number of craft gin producers that have come to the market and you see a very different and fast-moving picture. I suppose the question is, what will happen to them all? They surely can’t all prosper and grow into international brands that will cast a shadow over the likes of Johnnie Walker or, in the single malt category, the likes of Macallan? The straight answer – as I see it – is no. But the trend I mention has permanence. An important segment of consumers will continue the pursuit of ‘the different’ for the foreseeable future. That is because we have much more confidence in trying something new, unlike our forefathers, who were much more cagey about an unknown and untried product. That confidence will drive diversity, innovation and change. The important thing for The Whisky Shop is to be there. Ian P Bankier, Executive Chairman,

Competition — Whiskeria Exclusive

Win! A Best of Islay Gift Box featuring Ardbeg, Laphroig, Bunnahabhain, & Bowmore

In keeping with our island-hopping spring issue, we’re giving our lucky readers the chance to take their taste buds on holiday to The Queen of the Hebrides…

To enter, simply tell us:

We’re giving away five gift boxes showcasing ‘The Best of Islay’ via four carefully chosen, seminal Islay miniatures: Ardbeg 10 Year Old, Laphroaig 10 Year Old, Bunnahabhain 12 Year Old, and Bowmore 12 Year Old.

Answers should be emailed to: competition@whiskyshop.com Please include your full name and answer.

How many active distilleries are there currently on Islay?

Terms & Conditions The winner will be selected from all entries received via the email address stated above by midnight on 31st May 2017. The judge’s decision will be final. This competition is not open to employees of THE WHISKY SHOP Ltd. All normal competition rules apply. UK entrants must be 18 years old or over to apply. International entrants must be of legal drinking age in their country of residence.

–– produced by Ascot Publishing Limited PO Box 7415 Glasgow G51 9BR –– contact enquiries@whiskyshop.com

–– commissioning editor GlenKeir Whiskies Limited –– executive producer Claire Daisley claire@whiskyshop.com 0141 427 2919 –– executive chairman Ian P Bankier ipb@whiskyshop.com –– product photography Subliminal Creative 01236 734923

–– creative direction a visual agency emlyn@avisualagency.com –– feature writers Brian Wilson; Charles MacLean; Gavin D Smith; Claire Bell –– feature photography Brian Sweeney Christina Kernohan –– illustration Francesca Waddell Kate Timney

–– Glenkeir Whiskies Limited trades as THE WHISKY SHOP. Opinions expressed in WHISKERIA are not necessarily those of Glenkeir Whiskies Limited. Statements made and opinions expressed are done so in good faith, but shall not be relied upon by the reader. This publication is the copyright of the publisher, ASCOT PUBLISHING LIMITED, and no part of it may be reproduced without their prior consent in writing. No responsibility is taken for the advertising material contained herein. © ASCOT PUBLISHING LIMITED.

–– Prices effective February 2017. All prices in this edition of Whiskeria are subject to change.

Contributors Spring 2017 —

Illustration: Francesca Waddell

Brian Wilson

Claire Bell

Gavin D. Smith

Charles MacLean

Brian Wilson, formerly an MP, held several Government Ministerial posts during his political career. He lives on the Isle of Lewis, from where he pursues various business interests, notably in the energy sector. He also led the regeneration of the Harris Tweed industry and is currently Chairman of Harris Tweed Hebrides Ltd. His first love was writing and he continues to write books as well as opinion pieces for national newspapers.

Claire Bell has written on travel for Time magazine, The Herald, The Times, The Guardian and Wanderlust. She lives in Glasgow where she runs The Old Barn Bookery, a book charity that helps build libraries within disadvantaged schools in her native South Africa. Global adventure or a stay on Scottish soil, she is a dab hand at finding places you'll want to visit.

Gavin is one of the world’s most prolific and respected whisky writers. He’s regularly published in a range of top magazines and has written more than a dozen books on whisky, while coauthoring many more. He is also responsible for editing and releasing the latest version of Michael Jackson’s seminal whisky publication, The Malt Whisky Companion.

Charles has published fourteen Scotch whisky books to date, including the standard work on whisky brands, Scotch Whisky, and the leading book on its subject, Malt Whisky, both of which were short-listed for Glenfiddich awards. He was also script advisor for Ken Loach’s 2012 film The Angels’ Share and subsequently played the part of the whisky expert in the film (which he claims to be his biggest career highlight to date).

Contents Spring 2017 â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

12 A Time In History New Wave Distilling 16 My Craft Clan Brewing 24 Distillery Visit Bruichladdich 31 New Releases Spring 2017 44 My Whiskeria Alwynne Gwilt aka Miss Whisky 54 Travel Plockton 59 The Whisky Shop Section 84 Mixing It Up The George, Inverary 94 Expert Tasting Balvenie DCS Chapter Two 96 Last Word St Patrick's Day

CELEBRATING RICHARD PATERSONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S 50TH YEAR IN THE WHISKY INDUSTRY A pioneer in the art of cask selection and a master of maturation, Richard Paterson is the greatest whisky maker of his generation with an illustrious career spanning over half a century creating coveted and iconic whiskies. Throughout 2017 he will be touring the globe, celebrating with those who love The Dalmore, so please raise a glass to our iconic driving force.

WWW.THEDALMORE.COM

| a time in history

New wave distilling Brian Wilson visits the distilleries resurrecting and reimagining Scotland’s distilling landscape

Knowledge Bar

—

Craft Distilling Arran / St Andrews

Illustration: Francesca Waddell

J I grew up with a firm view of what a whisky distillery should look like. My mother came from the village of Bunnahabhain in Islay and her family worked in its distillery from the first mash in 1883. The complex of large, whitewashed buildings, facing the sea and crowned with pagodas, remains for me the epitome of Scotch whisky. There was certainly no visitor centre and the military discipline with which the whole village was run would not have encouraged one. The same was true throughout Scotland’s whisky regions until quite recently. They were places of craft and production; the secrets of brands and blends jealously guarded within their walls. Most of Scotland’s distilleries were built in the 19th century, but now a strong whiff of modernity is in the air. In 2009, there were 96 licensed distilleries. Today, there are 118. The Scotch Whisky Association provided a list of 40 distillery projects at various stages of development. Some will fall by the wayside, but their shared ambition is to produce a distinctive whisky that will secure a place in the single malt market. This is a significantly different model to the one that has characterised the industry for generations. These new distilleries are apart from the blended whisky market into which the vast majority of current production still flows. They are small-volume projects, likely to employ more people in visitor centres than in

the actual production of whisky. On that basis, they are emerging as assets to the industry, by adding diversity, and to many local communities which were previously nonparticipants in Scotland’s whisky trail. At some point, the bigger players may become irritated by a profusion of newly-emergent labels on the shelves. In reality, however, the vast majority will remain as niche players, creating their own markets while offering distinctive nuances of place and process. The biggest challenge facing entrepreneurs behind these 40 projects is how to bridge the financial gap which the whisky-making process dictates. Once the distillery is up and running, there will be a minimum of three years before anything it produces can be sold as Scotch Whisky. So how do they keep the wheels turning in the meantime? I became aware of this problem through the experience of Arran distillery. My parliamentary constituency included Arran and I was a supporter of plans to build a distillery at Lochranza, in the north-west of the island. (Incredibly, Scottish Natural Heritage objected on grounds of ‘visual intrusion’ but we managed to see that off). Arran is one of Scotland’s major tourist destinations and this can now be seen as the first of the ‘new-wave’ distilleries, opened in 1994. Arran has become a success story and, indeed, the current owners have obtained

Arran Est. 1994 by Harold Currie, a former director of Chivas Brothers // Produce the first legally distilled spirit on the island for 160 years // Construction delayed by a pair of nesting Golden Eagles – a protected species – until 1995 // Patron of the World Burns Federation, producing Robert Burns Single Malt and Robert Burns Blended Whisky in honour of the poet — www.arranwhisky.com St Andrews Est. 2012 by Paul Miller as Eden Brewery St Andrews on the site that the famous Haig family first made whisky, gin and beer in the 19th century // Eden Mill sources ethically and locally from the East Coast of Scotland // Scotland’s first single site combined brewery and distillery // Just eight barrels of new make spirit are filled per week, with the distillery vowing to keep whisky output small. — www.edenmill.com

Harris

. St Andrews

Arran

. Edinburgh

W “Most of Scotland’s distilleries were built in the 19th century, but now a strong whiff of modernity is in the air. In 2009, there were 96 licensed distilleries. Today, there are 118.”

W “We have individuals who wanted to hand something down to their children or grand children. They know that most distilleries were built in Victorian times, so this is a business that lasts.” planning consent for a second distillery at Lagg, in the south of the island. But I remember the challenges that the originators of the project faced in bridging that ‘three year gap’, which eventually led to them ceding control in order for the business to survive. It is a warning story I have told to a few would-be whisky magnates. One effective solution seems to have emerged in the meantime and it is called… ‘gin’. While it takes three years to produce whisky, gin can be turned around in no time at all. What’s more, the production process lends itself to endless ingredient options, each with the potential to add local character both to the flavour and the marketing. One outstanding example of this strategy lies in the Isle of Harris Distillery in the Outer Hebrides. Located close to the ferry terminal at Tarbert, this is the brainchild of Anderson ‘Burr’ Bakewell, an American-born musicologist, who has had a 50-year love affair with Harris. Anxious to help its fragile economy, he decided there was “no better way to share the place than to put it in a bottle”. Every aspect of Harris Distillery has been delivered to impeccable standards and it is already a huge tourist attraction, with 60,000 visitors in its first year. For the time being, most of them take away a bottle of Isle of Harris Gin. It is infused with seven botanicals including sugar kelp collected from local shores to suggest just a hint of the sea. Beautiful packaging and skilful marketing have helped make Harris Gin a sought-after product in its own right. The first whisky should be ready later this year but nothing will be hurried. Burr says:

“I’m told we have ideal maritime conditions for maturation. Conditions are so different from the mainland and even Islay is exposed to different forces. We have the softest water in Scotland and atmospheric pressure that is very different even from the Inner Isles”. In short, he adds: “Some distilleries struggle with defining themselves and differentiating. We don’t have that problem”. It took several years to raise funding, and Harris Distillery now has 18 investors. “The meetings with people looking for shortterm returns were very brief,” recalls Burr. “We have individuals who wanted to hand something down to their children or grand children. They know that most distilleries were built in Victorian times, so this is a business that lasts. That is what appealed to them and most have become very interested in each stage of progress”. With an annual output of just 100,000 litres, Harris Whisky will take scarcely a sip out of the Scotch Whisky market. But the love and enthusiasm which clearly goes into it is likely to translate into a loyal body of followers who, like Burr, will find a highly distinctive taste of Harris in every glass. For good measure, the project has given a real boost to a fragile island economy, already providing more than 30 jobs. What is there not to like? There is a similar story on the other side of Scotland at Guardbridge in Fife where a closed-down paper mill houses the Eden Mill brewery and distillery. The founder, Paul Miller, says that new distilleries, because they are small, can “add a further layer of crafting to an iconic product”. He quotes two examples of how they are applying this principle – innovating with different barleys, normally reserved for brewing, in the malting process and using high quality ‘first fill barrels’, fresh from

their original sherry or bourbon purpose, for maturation. Paul believes that the Scotch whisky industry and image need this kind of innovation and diversity to stay ahead of the global game. Craft distilling is becoming popular in other countries too, he points out. He also thinks that the small distilleries can “educate and explain” to a wider audience by improving on the ‘formulaic’ visitor centre experience. Eden Mill is currently listed as the number one visitor attraction in Fife by TripAdvisor. Like Harris, Eden Mill has become wellknown among a discerning audience for its gin, before the whisky comes on-stream in November. There was no masterplan, says Paul, and their original model was based on brewing beer while the whisky side of the business developed. But developing gins matched the skillset for their distilling staff and the market responded positively. As a result, the Eden Mill brand will be much better known even before the whisky appears. The Scotch Whisky Association welcomes the investment coming into the industry through small new ventures while, at the same time, the big players invest in expanding capacity. The SWA do not see quality control as an issue because that is dealt with through Westminster legislation which defines and protects the product, most recently the Scotch Whisky Regulations of 2010. With more Scottish communities involved in whisky production and more craft products for whisky aficionados to sample, it all seems like a story worthy of a toast – even if these new-look distilleries-cum-visitor centres don’t quite match my Bunnahabhain visual ideal.

Knowledge Bar Craft Distilling Harris /

Harris Est. October 2015 in Tarbert with the aim of creating a ‘Social Distillery’ to address the economic problems faced by the island while bringing its qualities to a global audience // During a recent visit to the distillery, HRH Prince Charles, Lord of the Isles, had his own cask of new make spirit sealed // Once bottled the whisky will be auctioned for his charity, The Prince’s Trust. — www.harrisdistillery.com Photos: Laurence Winram

| my craft

When it comes to ‘craft’, beer has certainly cornered the market. We caught up with Clan Brewers Scott Williams, Jake Griffin and Chris Miller to find out more about collaboration and their combined experience. —

Photography: Brian Sweeney Assistant: Albion

In terms of your individual routes into brewing, how did you all end up where you are today? Scott: I was kind of born into it: my dad had a homebrew shop, so as a kid I worked in the there, dealt with home brewers, all that sort of malarkey. Then I went off and sold photocopiers for a few years, then came back. We have a comic which shows the legend of our [William’s Brothers] original product Heather Ale, although there is artistic license taken with it. It’s based on a legend passed down from family to family, and then Robert Louis Stevenson wrote a poem about it called ‘Heather Ale’ and this is just one artistic embellishment of the story. That’s how we started in ‘craft beer’, if you will. Although it wasn’t craft beer at the time, it was just beer made with heather. Jake: I remember Scott once told me “I’ve been making craft beer for 30 years, and that’s 20 years before anyone wanted to drink it!”. It was amazing. I got into brewing because I had an allotment, I had loads of spare fruit, and I went into [Scott’s] homebrew shop. I started

by making wine and and a few years later I Knowledge Bar was like “I’m gonna make beer!”, went into the Clan Brewers homebrew shop and requested unmalted barley. Glasgow Scott stood up and said, “What. An. Idiot”. So, he came downstairs and taught me how A collaboration of brewers from to brew in a 5-minute conversation in the shop – across the country, the Craft Beer I just scribbled it down on the back of a fag Clan of Scotland aims to introduce packet, went home, started making beer… Scottish craft beer to a new audience Won a homebrew competition. of drinkers around the globe. Scott: You have to realise that Jake is some savant genius. He’s a doctor in spinal-neuroSet up in 2014 with four members – cryogenics… Or something like that. Williams Bros., Eden Brewery, Jake: Neuroscience and biomedical systems… Inveralmond and Deeside – the But I’m not a savant, by any stretch of the initiative now counts more than thirty imagination. I got into brewing through home 'clan members' among its ranks. brewing, won a competition: the prize was to brew commercially. So I brewed at Fyne Ales. Brewers from Alloa to Banchory Then Scott head-hunted me from Fyne Ales… are now enjoying representation in Then through this, I started my own brewing markets that would have previously company, Up Front Brewing. been unattainable. So why give up on neuroscience? Jake: If I’m honest, I became completely disillusioned with it. It was the ethics. I went back to my PhD because I had a successful

www.craftbeerclanscotland.com .

W “I remember Scott once told me I’ve been making craft beer for 30 years, and that’s 20 years before anyone wanted to drink it! It was amazing.”

business, realised it was unethical, decided I didn’t want to be part of that, and that I wanted to actually do my own research. The only way I can do that is if I self-fund, because no rich person is going to give me money to prove that rich people are evil. I decided I would make my money to be a self-funded scientist by brewing beer.

range of different coloured malts in it. The Rye Malt, you’re going to have malted rye in there. And all that will dictate what the final colour is going to be. But you can see it, when the malt is dug out: if it’s a stout it’s flecked with bits of chocolate. The whole porridge just looks much darker than if you’re making a golden ale, generally speaking.

You jointly created the whisky finished beers we sell at The Whisky Shop along with our resident Whiskeria expert Charles MacLean – what was the process of making those? Scott: It was kind of intuitive, and it was based on the fact that I’ve been in the brewing business for 30 years. Charlie MacLean is… Charlie! So we could just sit and discuss what we wanted to achieve. There was a logic to it. So, the spruce ale has got spruce tips in it, and it’s aged in Islay casks, and that gives it that kind of rounded sweetness. Spruce – it balances, out a little bit, the effect of the characteristic Islay flavour, iodine and phenols and what have you. The rye is in the Speyside casks; that spiciness from the rye was designed to offset the sherry, rounded fullness of the Speyside cask. The Lowland cask, being the most woody of them all, had the least particular distinctiveness but a lovely, natural woodiness, which was why the Imperial Stout was put in there – because that’s got a kind of strong flavour already. Then the Golden Ale with the Highland, again, probably the second least characterful in terms of strength of flavour of the wood, but it really offsets the sweet and honeyish flavour.

What other unusual projects have you had going on recently, aside from the whisky finished beers? Scott: It’s ongoing at Drygate, every week is weird and wonderful, because we’ve got the studio kit. Jake: That’s the big news for me: that I’ve just changed roles. I’ve gone from being head brewer in the main brewing facility to head brewer in the studio kit bit, which is fantastic. So basically, I’m getting to do all the fun stuff, which is exactly what I want to do! Recipe creation, brewing with clients who hire the kit, brewing with contract brewers that are running their business off that small kit.

What was Charlie’s role in the creation of those beers? Chris: We use Charlie to endorse the wood. He gets his beak in the cask, and says “they’re good”. Charlie wouldn’t attach his name to anything he didn’t believe in, or which wasn’t of a quality he regarded. So we use him for endorsement, integrity, credibility… and promotion! His signature carries a lot of weight, particularly in Asian markets. In terms of process what goes into making different beer types? Scott: It’s a matter of the brewers selecting the different malt that’s going to make up the grist for your beer. So, if you’re making an Imperial Stout, you’ll have chocolate, roasted barley, it depends. There could be a whole

Have you seen any trends emerging through hiring out the studio kit to different people? Jake: The studio kit isprominently used for contract brewing, so for other ‘gypsy brewers’ – they take up most of our brewing capacity. One-offs for people – for corporate events, for weddings, for birthdays, for retirement parties, things like that – they’re fun. It’s rare that you get someone with brewing knowledge doing that, so when you do it's tricky, because as a home brewer you have, believe it or not, a lot more control over what you’re doing, than in a commercial setting. What are the strangest requests you’ve had on the studio kit? Jake: Maybe “please don’t microwave my passion fruit, I don’t like the way that it’s heated when it is microwaved” We have a core range beer in a can called Orinoco, which is a vanilla coffee chocolate stout. It’s a breakfast stout. So, we’ve done a double version of that. The one in the can is about 5% – the one we’ve just made on the studio kit is about 10%, it’s got lactose in it as well, so it’s a milk stout. Very sweet, very rich. I can’t wait for it to come out. We’ve also got 7 Peaks – it’s a core cask range beer and it’s one of our award-winning ones. It was the second best cask beer in Scotland last 18

year, and we’ve just done a double version of that called 14 Peaks that is insane! What’s your perspective on the past, present and future of brewing here – how has drinking culture changed? Chris: The past is the past, but I think in terms of the present it’s been heavily influenced by the craft brewing movement that’s been going on in the States for more than a generation now. I think you can trace it back to what, ‘71, to the West Coast of America, in terms of craft brewers starting to evolve. Their beer styles and their flavours are really interpretations of the Belgians’ and Germans’. More use of the hop in this case. And I guess in Europe, and the UK… I mean I think London and Scotland have been a real hotbed, or incubator, for craft brewers. And recipes have evolved as the consumers’ palates have changed: because the consumer travels more, they’re more discerning, they want to experience new flavours, as far as beer is concerned. You know, the craft beer consumer is quite promiscuous! They want to try lots of different styles – there is a burgeoning demand for different beer types, different hop profiles, different flavour experiences. You know, Scott’s been really craft brewing for 29 years now. When you look at it, that’s a lot longer than most. There aren’t many brewers in Scotland as old. The big lager brewers used to have a stranglehold on the bar – how have things changed over your time in the industry? Chris: It’s not always been easy for a smaller brewer. I ran Harviestoun Brewery for many years, and Scott and I were called ‘microbrewers’. Now we’re called ‘craft brewers’! And that’s fine, but that’s because the market has evolved and changed. Over here, ‘micro’ and ‘craft’ means ‘small’, but over in America it doesn’t mean small. It just means ‘good’. It’s still not easy for the smaller brewers to get on the bars because they’re controlled as to what they can buy and what they can sell. Leveraging that is a challenge for the smaller brewers, especially because it’s getting busier in the marketplace. Craft Beer Clan beers, including Drygate, Up Front Brewing and Williams Brothers beers, are available to buy directly from the brewery. Craft Beer Clan’s whisky aged beers can be purchased at The Whisky Shop stores or online at www.whiskyshop.com.

W “The craft beer consumer is quite promiscuous! They want to try lots of different styles”

Knowledge Bar Beer brewing Jake Griffin

1. When a beer is finished fermenting, an ale will be around 20 degrees, a lager will be a lot lower, so maybe 12–14 degrees. Then we’ll chill it to drop a lot of the yeast out, and then we’ll send it to the conditioning tank. For lagers it can be chilled even down to minus – it’s not going to freeze because it’s got alcohol in it. But for an ale, depending on how we’re going to treat it, we may want to leave a little bit of yeast in there.

We’ll leave it in the conditioning tanks and you’ll either just condition it for an ale, or you’ll actually lager it, for lager. Lager is the German word for ‘store’.

Keg beers are sent through a centrifuge that is used to spin all of the particular – the yeast and hops – out of the beer. Most breweries our size won’t have anything like this. Then we’ll run it through a plate filter, and that will basically take everything out if it down to about one micron.

4. Then it’ll go into the bright beer tanks, where it will get carbonated. And then it might go through the sterile filters, which basically take everything out of the beer, so it can’t ferment as there’s no bacteria. Then it’ll go through the the keg washer filler and that’s it for the keg beers.

What’s the difference between an ale malt and a lager malt? That is a bloody good question, actually! The colour is the no.1, after the flavour. So lager malt doesn’t really taste of much, ale malt tastes of bread and biscuit and toast and all sorts. It’s down to the way they’re roasted!

WE BELIEVE TERROIR MATTERS.

THE PHILOSOPHY OF THE MEN OF BRUICHLADDICH BRUICHLADDICH DISTILLERY ISLE OF ISLAY, SCOTLAND

DRINK RESPONSIBLY BRUICHLADDICH.COM



| distillery visit

Old distillery, new tricks Gavin Smith explores Islay's impressive innovator, Bruichladdich.

Knowledge Bar Bruichladdich Islay

• Built in 1881 by the Harvey Brothers — William, John and Robert. • Pronounced Brookh-Lad-dee; incorporating the common mispronunciation of the Gaelic 'ch'. • The distillery also produces the extremely popular Botanist Gin.

Bruichladdich Isle of Jura

. .

.Islay

Fort William

Allan Logan, Bruichladdich Distillery Manager with Adam Hannett, Bruichladdich Head Distiller

We tend to associate the great, late Victorian Scotch whisky ‘boom’ period of distillery construction primarily with the Speyside region, but in reality, all of Scotland benefitted, including the Hebridean island of Islay. There, Bunnahabhain and Bruichladdich distilleries were established in 1881, with the latter being designed by 23-year-old engineer Robert Harvey and constructed for the Glasgow-based Harvey family of distillers. Both plants were intended to supply peaty, stronglyflavoured malt for blending purposes. Unlike many of its fellow Islay distillers, Bruichladdich was a ‘courtyard’ distillery, built using the recently-patented modern concrete, rather than an extension of an existing agricultural enterprise. It was equipped with tall, narrownecked stills to produce a relatively pure, elegant style of spirit. When the indefatigable distillery chronicler, Alfred Barnard, visited Bruichladdich just a handful of years after its opening, he wrote that “The Distillery, which is two miles from Port Charlotte and six from Bridgend… covers a little over two and a half acres of ground, and faces the sea. It is a solid, handsome structure, in the form of a square, and entered through an archway…” The Harvey family owned and ran Bruichladdich until 1938, when it was sold to Train & McIntyre, though it was silent from 1929 until 1936. Thirty years after the Harveys

relinquished ownership, Invergordon Distillers acquired Bruichladdich, going on to double the number of stills to four during 1975. When Whyte & Mackay Ltd took over Invergordon Distillers in 1993, Bruichladdich was closed as surplus to requirements, remaining almost entirely silent until December 2000. At that point, the characterful single malts of Islay were just beginning to receive wider public recognition, and in 1997 Ardbeg distillery had been rescued from likely oblivion by Glenmorangie plc, and the future for Bruichladdich also began to look brighter when a company – headed by Mark Reynier of independent bottler Murray McDavid – bought the distillery at a cost of £6.5 million. What Reynier and his team – including the highly-experienced Islay distiller Jim McEwan, – took on was effectively an unreconstituted Victorian distillery. It came complete with original, open-topped, cast iron mash tun and wooden washbacks, while one of the two wash stills in situ, now renovated, dates from the distillery’s establishment, and is reputedly the oldest in Scotland. The first distillation under the Reynier regime took place in May 2001, comprised heavily peated spirit, and was given the name Port Charlotte; in October of the following year, the world’s most heavily peated single malt (80ppm) was distilled, subsequently being 25

named Octomore, after one of Islay’s many long-lost farm-based distilleries. Along with unpeated Bruichladdich, Port Charlotte and Octomore ultimately became the distillery’s core bottlings, with Scottish Barley and Islay Barley being the principal expressions of each. Around 40% of all barley used by the distillery is now grown on the island, and the possibility of reinstating floor malting at Bruichladdich has been discussed. Reynier set out to gain attention for Bruichladdich by adopting a somewhat ‘out there’ approach in what was still a relatively conservative industry. When the distillery was spied upon via its webcams by the US Defence Threat Reduction Agency – tasked with hunting for weapons of mass destruction – Reynier eagerly seized on the story, which was soon being relayed around the globe, doing no harm to Bruichladdich sales in the process. One milestone for Reynier and his associates was the release, in 2011, of The Laddie Ten, made up entirely of whisky distilled since the distillery’s reopening. However, as Content Creation Manager Carl Reavey explains, “It was a huge success, in fact, it was almost too well-received, and ultimately had to be withdrawn, due to lack of aged stocks. Post-2001 reopening we had a big gap in our stock profile from when the distillery had been closed, so we needed to be creative with stock in order to survive. We did

some quite radical wine finishes, and things like Rock (finished in red wine casks), Waves (youthful and lightly peated), and Peat (peated to 35ppm). We were offering no-age-statement (NAS) whiskies before the expression NAS was even in use. Then, over time, the stock profile of the whole whisky industry came under strain, due to the global success of Scotch. NAS came to the fore, and we were (unintentionally) ahead of the game.” A public perception that NAS whiskies were inferior to those carrying age statements, and comprised significant amounts of relatively youthful spirit, began to develop, and, as Carl Reavey says, “We didn’t want to get tarred with the same brush as everyone else, so we opted for the ‘transparency’ route. You could say it’s helped give the category greater respectability.” The ‘transparency’ in question relates to The Classic Laddie, a core NAS expression – or multi-vintage cuvée, in the words of the distillers. From April of last year, each bottle has been marked with a batch code, and entering the code at the distillery website reveals details of all component cask types and ages. According to the distillers, “Every vatting of The Classic Laddie has been created using a different suite of casks, and therefore every batch code will give different results. We celebrate natural whisky and variety.” Following the overwhelmingly positive response to the Classic Laddie innovation, the Laddie team decided to apply the same principal to the other core NAS bottling in the range, Port Charlotte Scottish Barley. As Reavey notes, “That is our only other multivintage cuvée. There is a misconception that Bruichladdich offers many NAS expressions, but the vast majority of what we do either has an age statement or a year of distillation on it.” Reynier and his team achieved extraordinary success by positioning Bruichladdich outside the single malt mainstream, and by releasing an – at times – bewildering array – no fewer than 432 between 2001 and 2012! By the latter date, however, it had become apparent that in order to make a step change in Bruichladdich’s overall operation, external investment was required, and in 2012 the distillery was acquired by French drinks company Remy Cointreau for £58 million. Pessimists predicted that Bruichladdich would become risk-averse in the hands of a large corporate owner, and would lose its vital

individuality but, in truth, Remy Cointreau has provided much needed finance to improve the existing venture without sacrificing everything that makes Bruichladdich special. The ancient cast iron mash tun was refurbished – rather than replaced with a more efficient new version, a second bottling line was installed, and new warehouses built. Along with the change of ownership, which saw Reynier cross the Irish Sea to set up a new distillery in the port of Waterford, another major alteration to the Bruichladdich status quo came with the succession of Adam Hannett to the role of Head Distiller. Islay born and bred, like his predecessor Jim McEwan, Hannett started work at Bruichladdich in 2004, going on to understudy McEwan in his roles of Production Director and Master Distiller, taking on the top job when his mentor retired in the summer of 2015, after 52 years in the Scotch whisky business. “I call myself Head Distiller, certainly not Master Distiller, as Jim was,” declares Hannett. “Maybe one day, but I definitely wouldn’t be comfortable with it now. Every day working with Jim was amazing. There were no short cuts and it was all about quality and achieving the very best possible. None of our whisky goes into blends; it’s all bottled as single malt, so it has to be right. Integrity is vitally important.” Hannett has pioneered an innovation in the shape of the MP Programme, with MP standing for Multi-Provenance. As Reavey explains, “Every three or four months, Adam selects three casks and we package them as a sampling kit of three 200ml bottles. We do runs of 750-900 bottles, and the kits sell for £50 each. We then have a collective opening and live YouTube sampling with Adam on a given day. It’s going on all over the world, and among others, we’ve done three Port Charlottes and three Octomores. It underlines our core values – that every cask is different. It comes back to the issue of transparency. Classic Laddie and Port Charlotte Scottish Barley vary from batch to batch, and we like it that way.” Another important moment for Bruichladdich came last autumn, with the release of a ‘Troika’ of 10 year old expressions, namely a Bruichladdich matured in first-fill sherry, bourbon and French wine casks, a Port Charlotte aged in first-fill sherry, bourbon, French wine, and Tempranillo casks, and an Octomore from bourbon and Grenache Blanc casks. 18,000 bottles of each were released on

a global basis, with The Whisky Shop rapidly selling out its allocation, so congratulations if you happen to have a bottle at home! According to Reavey, “There will be more 10 Year Old releases in the future, but not necessarily a ‘Troika.’ When Adam took over he found that by then a limited amount of liquid of the right age had become available, hence the ‘Troika’ bottlings. They were driven purely by liquid availability.” Bruichladdich is, and always will be, synonymous with single malt whisky, but the distillery has also made a major impression with its increasingly popular Botanist Gin, available from The Whisky Shop. It is a dry gin, containing no fewer than 22 foraged island botanicals, and is produced in the last fully functioning Lomond still in Scotland, rescued from Inverleven distillery at Dumbarton in 2004 prior to its demolition. The less than aesthetically pleasing still has been christened ‘Ugly Betty’. “It started out with high-end cocktails and chefs, but its appeal has spread,” says Reavey, “In the fiscal year 2016/17 we sold some 750,000 bottles of Botanist. In terms of volume, though not value, we sold more gin than whisky!” Indeed, sales of whisky have increased dramatically under the Remy Cointreau regime, and the amount of money invested confirms that the French firm is in this for the long term. Best of all, for Bruichladdich’s legions of fans around the world, as Reavey declares, “What Remy bought was access to the Bruichladdich ethos. It is our ethos that interests them most. As a result, they are not trying to change us. They are urging us on.”

Adam Hannett, Bruichladdich Head Distiller

OLD FASHIONED EV EN IN 18 91

A STYLE SELDOM MET In 1891 a whisky expert noted that Craigellachie represented a style of whisky “seldom met with now,” which we took as a compliment. Today we still use old-fashioned worm tubs to cool our spirit and bestow it with extra flavour, creating a dram to rival whiskies twice its age.

ENJOY OUR SINGLE MALT RESPONSIBLY. CRAIGELLACHIE AND ITS TRADE DRESS ARE TRADEMARKS. 28

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Michter’s celebrates an extraordinarily rich heritage that traces back to 1753, years before America’s Declaration of Independence. Passionate about great whiskey, the Michter’s team spares no expense in its efforts to produce the greatest American whiskey possible. Tremendous attention is given to every step in the production process including details like yeast selection, fermentation temperatures, distillation, wood selection and drying of staves, toasting and/or charring barrels, barreling proof, temperature and air flow conditions in the rickhouse where the barrels are aged, identifying the peak of maturation for bottling, and of course our singular filtration protocol.

New Releases Spring 2017 Reviewed by Charles MacLean

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Glenmorangie Grand Vintage Malt 1990 Glenmorangie Bacalta Private Edition No.8 The First Editions Mortlach 9 Year Old The First Editions Bunnahabhain 9 Year Old The Old Malt Cask Ardmore 20 Year Old The Old Malt Cask Glen Grant 25 Year Old GlenDronach 25 Year Old Grandeur (Batch 8) Bowmore Vault Edition No.1 The Loch Fyne Craigellachie 10 Year Old Johnnie Walker Blue Label Year of the Rooster Ltd Edt Amrut Fusion Michter’s Small Batch Bourbon Whiskey Michter’s Single Barrel Rye Whiskey

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New Releases: Spring 2017

Glenmorangie Grand Vintage Malt 1990 70CL

Highland Single Malt Age: 25 Year Old

Vol: 43%

£500

Deep gold in colour. A highly-scented aroma with almond oil on a fruity base (baked apple, peach, ripe pear), with floral notes gradually emerging (honeysuckle) and resolving as beeswax. The taste is lightly sweet, the texture slightly waxy; the overall palate presents ripe peaches, orange zest and brown sugar, with a hint of menthol in the finish and aftertaste. Complex.

J This grand vintage malt 1990 launches a new series from Glenmorangie, named the Bond House No.1 Collection, designed to “explore the unique origins of Glenmorangie’s most prestigious parcels of aged whisky, each distilled in a single year” for the delectation of connoisseurs and collectors. 1990 was a significant year in the history of Glenmorangie. Its product had achieved such eminence during the 1980s that capacity was doubled (to eight stills) that year, requiring the still house to be moved into a larger building. The distillery’s largest bonded warehouse (Bond No. 1) was chosen – a threestorey building dating from the 19th century, capable of housing Glenmorangie’s uniquely tall stills, each the height of a mature giraffe. The original still house is now part of the visitor centre. The barley harvest in 1989 was highly variable and difficult to process during the 1990 season, especially in relation to the milling and mashing stages of production. The resulting stoppages prevented many malt distilleries from reaching their production targets that year, but Glenmorangie’s spirit turned out to be exceptional – among the best ever tasted. It was filled into carefully selected ex-bourbon casks, with a small amount in ex-sherry casks, and set aside until it was deemed to be at the peak of maturity.

Dr. Bill Lumsden, Glenmorangie’s Director of Whisky Creation, writes: “I am delighted that our Grand Vintage Malt 1990 will launch the Bond House No. 1 Collection. Even today, few can explain how a spirit so delicious could emerge from a barley crop with such challenges. Combined with a quarter-century of Glenmorangie’s exceptional cask expertise, its finesse and vibrancy has been preserved through the ages to create a whisky brimming with aromas of heather honey, mandarin and candied fruits, and tastes of orange syrup and vanilla, zesty herbal top-notes, baked apple and brown sugar.” 32

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New Releases: Spring 2017

Glenmorangie Bacalta Private Edition No.8 70CL

Highland Single Malt Age: –

Vol: 46%

£84

Deep gold in colour: Golden Syrup – and the first impression on the nose if of syrup sponge pudding with its traditional accompaniment of stem ginger, and a sprinkling of powdered ginger. The taste is sweet to start, warming, with white chocolate in mid-palate, a gingery finish and aftertaste. Water closes down the aroma somewhat, but sweetens and adds a touch of orange zest to the taste.

J bacalta is the eighth annual release in Glenmorangie’s Private Edition series. The name does not appear in my Gaelic dictionary, but is derived from bacaladh, ‘an oven’, ‘baked’. After maturation for an unspecified period in ex-bourbon casks, the liquid has been finished – ‘extra-matured’ – in Malmsey Madeira casks, “brimming with baked fruit and sun-soaked syrupy sweetness”, according to Dr. Bill Lumsden, its creator. Readers of Whiskeria will know that quality Madeira wines are aged in hot warehouses, heated by the sun for never fewer than three months. Malmsey is the sweetest style, characterised by its rich colour and texture, and bittersweet, coffee-caramel flavours. Dr Bill released the popular Glenmorangie Madeira Finish 20 years ago. Now he writes: “For years I had longed to create the best Madeira-finished whisky possible. Realising that ambition took time and dedication, as every step of extra-maturation

was tailored exactly to our specifications – rather like haute couture… “Connoisseurs will recognise the radiating warmth of our bespoke sun-baked casks in Glenmorangie Bacalta’s aromas of ripe apricots, white chocolate and mineral notes. There are complex tastes of mint toffee, baked fruits, honeycomb, almonds and dates, mingling with marzipan, white pepper and melon – and a rich, syrupy finish. Glenmorangie Bacalta is a burst of sunshine in a glass.” Glenmorangie is a complex and delicate spirit, easily overcome by complete maturation in active

casks but well suited to finishing – i.e. re-racking into different woods for the final months or years of its maturation to achieve an extra dimension of flavour while retaining the distillery’s own character. It is bottled at 46% vol, at natural colour and without chill-filtration.

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New Releases: Spring 2017

The First Editions Mortlach 70CL

Speyside Single Malt Age: 9 Year Old

Vol: 46%

£72

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The whisky has only a touch of colour – the faintest tint of tarnished silver. The aroma is fresh and fruity, with ripe red apples, cherries and dried angelica root, and a trace of bubble gum. Light but well-rounded. The texture is surprisingly full-bodied; the taste sweet with a bitter lemon finish and fondant in the aftertaste.

The First Editions Bunnahabhain 70CL

Islay Single Malt Age: 9 Year Old

Vol: 46%

£75

Similar in colour to the 9 year old Mortlach, with an initial aroma which combines Weetabix and Sugar Puffs with cigarette tobacco. After a while fruity notes emerge – malted fruit loaf – with a whiff of a seaweed-strewn beach. The taste is sweet, salty and distinctly maritime, with solvent in the aftertaste. Fresh and clean.

J I understand that Hunter Laing’s the first editions range of single cask bottlings was introduced for the North American market in 2014, when the entire collection was eagerly taken up by the company’s distributor. These youthful additions to the range demonstrate just how good young whiskies can be. I must confess to being initially nervous about assessing them: their almost complete lack of colour indicates that the liquids have spent their short lives in very tired – even exhausted – casks, but I was happily surprised. They have lost any immature characteristics and, while the wood has not added much in the way of flavour (let alone colour), this allows the original distillery character to shine forth. Known colloquially as ‘The Beast of Dufftown’, Mortlach is a famously rich whisky. The new make spirit is described as ‘meaty’ and smells a bit like a roasting tin, or Bovril. This cask has removed all these notes and developed the latent fruity Speyside character of the spirit. Last year I was reviewing a 75 year old Mortlach, which was gloriously rich and fresh-fruity. It is interesting to compare these notes with the youngster: parallels may be drawn. Traditional Bunnahabhain is very lightly peated, sweet, fruity and faintly maritime, sometimes with the merest thread of smoke. This youthful expression ticks all these boxes except the last, although the overall taste is more cereal-like than I would have expected.

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New Releases: Spring 2017

The Old Malt Cask Ardmore 20 Year Old 70CL

Highland Single Malt Age: 20 Year Old

Vol: 50%

£130

Very pale gold in colour, with excellent beading. The top-note is of fresh fruit (white grapes, apples, pears) on a faintly peaty base. More fragrant with a drop of water (bath salts?). Sweet and mouth-filling, with fondant on the mid-palate and a thread of smoke in the finish. The latter increases at reduced strength, and the finish becomes more spicy.

J Drying the ‘green’ malt over a peat-fuelled fire was a hallmark of Highland distilleries until the 1960s. On Speyside, for example, only one distillery (Glen Grant) used a mix of ‘peat and coke’, according to Alfred Barnard who visited all the distilleries in the United Kingdom during the late 1880s. Every distillery had its own maltings, but in the post-war years demand for blended Scotch was so strong that distillers could not produce enough malt to meet their requirements and resorted to buying in malt from centralised maltings. Increasingly, this was unpeated, since commercial maltsters were geared to the brewing industry and incapable of producing peatdried malt in large quantities. Also, kiln outputs could be substantially increased if more readily available fuels such as coke and anthracite were used. Scottish Malt Distillers, the production division of the Distillers Company Limited, ceased floor malting at 29 distilleries in 1968, and built or expanded large-scale maltings at Burghead (1966), Muir of Ord (1966), Montrose (1968), Port Ellen (1973) and Roseisle (1979/80). Significantly, the malt supplied to SMD’s Speyside distilleries came from Burghead and

Roseisle Maltings, neither of which were capable of drying with peat. From its foundation in 1897/98, Ardmore Distillery has used medium-peated malt (12-14 parts per million phenols), made on site until 1976 in Saladin boxes, then supplied by independent maltsters, peated to the same level. This is unusual in a mainland Highland distillery – Ardmore is situated at Kennethmont in Aberdeenshire – and gives the whisky made here a keynote smokiness.

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New Releases: Spring 2017

The Old Malt Cask Glen Grant 25 Year Old 70CL

Speyside Single Malt Age: 25 Year Old

Vol: 50%

£160

A rich umber hue (polished oak with rosewood lights), with good beading. The nose is mellow and complex – cherry liqueur chocolates, sphagnum moss, a suggestion of antiseptic cream (Savlon), then Highland toffee. Mouth-filling, lightly sweet, then mouth-drying and surprisingly smoky, all increased with a dash of water. Most unusual.

J glen grant was one of the first malts to be made available as a single. As early as 1872 it was advertised as being “pure, mild and agreeable… peculiarly adapted for family use in England, Scotland and the Colonies”. In these days it was sold in bulk, by the cask and stoneware jar, the owners supplying labels to the off-trade featuring two kilted Highlanders sitting on either side of a butt under the words: ‘From the Heath Covered Mountains of Scotia I Come’. It was also the first single malt to take off in Italy – the first market in the world to embrace malt whisky. This was entirely down to the energy of the brand’s distributor, Armando Giovinetti. Appointed in 1961, Giovinetti determined to take on grappa, and advertised the drink as being ‘smooth’ and lacking the ‘bite’ of blended Scotch. One successful tactic was a joint promotion with a pharmaceutical company making throat lozenges… By 1966 he was selling slightly over 5,000 cases; 10 years later, sales had reached 200,000 cases a year. Founded in Rothes by John and James Grant in 1840, and described by Alfred Barnard as “one of the most extensive distilleries in the North”, Glen Grant remained in the ownership of their descendants until 1978, when it was bought by the Seagram Corporation of Canada. Its owner at the time, Douglas MacKessack, James Grant’s grandson, announced the take-over “with regret, but as being inevitable if Glen Grant’s economic survival was to be assured” and gave all employees a cash bonus. In 2001 Pernod Ricard bought Seagram’s Scotch whisky interests and sold Glen Grant to Campari of Milan in 2006.

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New Releases: Spring 2017

GlenDronach 25 Year Old Grandeur (Batch 8) 70CL

Highland Single Malt Age: 25 Year Old

Vol: 50.3%

£435

Polished rosewood, with magenta lights. A profound aroma, with dried fruits macerated in Oloroso sherry, almonds and dark chocolate; nose drying. The taste at natural strength is sweeter than expected to start with, finishing dry but not overly tannic, with a very long finish. A drop of water adds texture, enhances the sweet fruitiness and brings spice. A glorious example of sherry wood maturation.

J The first batch of the renowned glendronach grandeur was released in 2010 and now fetches eye-watering prices at auction, but the reputation of each batch in the series is based upon the outstanding quality of the liquid, wholly matured in ex-Oloroso sherry casks and selected by the distillery’s former owner and master blender, Billy Walker. Only 1,505 bottles of Batch 8 are available, and they can be expected to move quickly. Many consider GlenDronach to be the benchmark ‘sherry-matured’ malt. The stock acquired by Mr. Walker when he bought the distillery in 2008 was outstanding, and he has judiciously released first-rate expressions at different ages ever since. In April 2016 the distillery was sold to the Brown-Foreman Corporation of America (owner of Jack Daniels), along with its sister distilleries, BenRiach and Glenglassaugh. The distillery was built in 1825 by a group of local farmers led by one James Allardice, supported by the Duke of Gordon, who had been instrumental in persuading Parliament to pass the 1823 Excise Act which laid the foundations of the modern whisky industry. Once, when he had dined at Gordon Castle, Mr. Allardice – somewhat the worse for drink – was overeffusive in his praise of the Duchess of Gordon’s piano playing. The following morning the Duke informed him that his wife was not amused, to which he replied: “Well, Your Grace, it was just that trash of Glenlivet you gave me after dinner that did not agree wi’ me. If it had been my ain guid GlenDronach, I would not hae been ony the warr.” This was pretty cheeky, since the Duke was the laird of Glenlivet, and had supported George Smith in establishing the first legal distillery there… 38

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New Releases: Spring 2017

Bowmore Vault Edition No.1 70CL

Islay Single Malt Age: –

Vol: 51.5%

£100

Deep amber, with tawny lights. The first aroma is reminiscent of a maturation warehouse! Beneath this lurk fresh plums, orange peel, seaweed, sanded oak and teak oil. The texture is faintly oily; the taste a balance of salt and pepper after a lightly sweet start. A long, warming finish at full strength, with peatsmoke in the aftertaste.

J bowmore can claim to have the oldest maturation warehouse in the world, the legendary No.1 Vaults, built in the 1770s – or possibly even earlier: it is my belief that the distillery (and its No. 1 warehouse) date from the foundation of Bowmore village itself in 1768. It is certainly the oldest licensed distillery on Islay, and one of the oldest in Scotland. The ancient Vaults are washed by the sea at high tide – its thick stone walls are streaked with salt and the maritime atmosphere permeates the casks and can add a salty tang to some expressions of the whisky. Bowmore Vault Edition No. 1 celebrates this: a mix of Spanish oak ex-sherry butts and American oak exbourbon casks have been chosen by Rachel Barrie, the company’s Master Blender, to demonstrate this. Four Vault Editions are planned, each one featuring a key aspect of Bowmore’s character. The carton explains: “Four notable layers of flavour that characterise Bowmore whiskies, influenced in part by the rare environment of the No. 1 Vaults. Each release in this four-part series showcases a different layer: Atlantic sea salt, peat-smoked perfection, full-bodied fruitiness and silky sweetness. “This first edition presents the trademark Sea Salt tang of Bowmore in a whisky that opens out like the vast Atlantic Ocean itself.”

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New Releases: Spring 2017

The Loch Fyne Craigellachie 10 Year Old 50CL

Speyside Single Malt Age: 10 Year Old

Vol: 46%

£65

The colour of amontillado sherry or polished mahogany, the dry nose indicates maturation in Spanish oak ex-Oloroso casks, as does the top-note aroma of dried sultanas and dates. Gradually the nose gains depth and sweetness, and a suggestion of smoke. The taste starts sweet and finishes dry and spicy, with treacle toffee in the aftertaste.

J Until 2014 craigellachie was not widely available as a single malt, but that year the owner of the distillery, John Dewar & Sons, released expressions at 13, 17, 19 (duty free only) and 23 years old, to widespread acclaim. This limited edition from Loch Fyne Whiskies is an excellent example of the make and has been matured in an active Spanish oak ex-Oloroso butt. The distillery was the brainchild of a remarkable young man, Alexander Edward, in partnership with ‘Restless’ Peter Mackie, the owner of Lagavulin Distillery and the famous White Horse brand of blended Scotch. The son of a local farmer and distiller, Alexander had acquired the lease of Benrinnes Distillery from his father in 1888, when he was 23 years old. Building commenced in 1890, under the direction of Charles Doig of Elgin, the leading distillery designer of the day, and Craigellachie went into production a year later. The site was chosen on account of its proximity to the Strathspey Railway line, connecting Craigellachie – a hamlet at the time – to Elgin in the north and Aviemore in the south, while a branch line led to Dufftown. In effect, the village grew up around the distillery and was largely built by Alexander Edward, who, realising the potential for tourism in the heart of Speyside, built a number of ‘new villas’ in the village, which could be rented out to summer visitors. In 1895 – he was still under 30 old – he went on to build the famous Craigellachie Hotel (known locally as ‘The Craig’) which would transform the village from a railway hub into a tourist destination, especially for sportsmen.

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New Releases: Spring 2017

Johnnie Walker Blue Label Year of The Rooster 2017 Limited Edition 70CL

Blended Scotch Whisky Age: –

Vol: 40%

£220

A balance of freshness (wild raspberries, light fudge) and maturity (dense, fugitive perfume, like old ladies’ handbags; musk, furniture polish). Likewise the flavour is a good balance of sweetness, acidity and dryness, with a long finish and some beeswax in the aftertaste.

J 2017 is The Year of the Rooster in the Chinese Zodiac, and this limited bottling of Johnnie Walker’s iconic blue label expression has been released to mark it. In China, each year is related to an animal sign in a 12 year cycle: ‘Rooster’ is the tenth in the cycle, which includes ‘Rat’, ‘Dog’, ‘Tiger’, ‘Sheep’ etc. The Chinese New Year – which is wildly celebrated – starts on 28th January and the year ends on 15th February 2018, according to the lunar calendar. Other Rooster Years are 2005, 1993, 1981, 1969, etc. Traditional astrology maintains that a person’s character is decided by their birth year’s sign. Roosters are ‘hardworking, resourceful, courageous and talented; active, talkative, outspoken, loyal and popular’. They enjoy being in company, but seek the limelight and are inclined to be boastful. Unfortunately, Chinese astrologers believe that each zodiac year is deeply unlucky for those born under that sign. They recommend various tactics to drive away the bad luck, such as wearing red (particularly red underwear) – so long as you have been gifted the garment and not bought it yourself – and wearing jade accessories. Johnnie Walker Blue Label is an outstandingly smooth whisky, worthy of being savoured. The Chinese often drink it throughout a meal, as we would drink wine, and I must say it goes very well with a wide range of Cantonese and Szechuan dishes.

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New Releases: Spring 2017

Amrut Fusion

70CL

Indian Single Malt Age: –

Vol: 50%

£58

Deep gold in colour – a mix of first-fill and refill U.S. oak barrels. In spite of its high strength, the nose-feel is mild. The top notes are of toffee, oak and dried fruits (moist Christmas cake), on a base of malt loaf. Water raises milk chocolate. The taste is sweet, echoing the aroma, with a spicy finish and a hint of smoke.

J amrut fusion takes its name from the fact that it uses two barleys: Indian and Scottish. The former is grown on the foothills of the Himalayas; the latter in Scotland, where it is also malted and dried over peat. The two different barleys are mashed and distilled separately in Amrut’s distillery in Bangalore, which stands 3,000 feet above sea level. After maturation on site, they are vatted and married to produce – and here I quote the whisky’s packaging – “a Fusion of East and West, denoting the spiritual value of Unity, Peace and Prosperity”. The expression first appeared in 2009 and has been collecting awards ever since. It was Jim Murray’s third choice as ‘Finest Whisky in the World’ in 2010, and in 2012 was named the best whisky for a Rob Roy [1 part sweet vermouth, 2 parts whisky, with a dash of bitters (preferably Peychaud’s) to each glass] in the Ultimate Cocktail Challenge in New York. Amrut Distilleries is a family-owned company, founded by Radhakrishna Rao Jagdale in 1948 and currently chaired by his son, Neelakanta Rao Jagdale, who, by focusing on authenticity, innovation and product quality, has developed a significant market for the make in Europe, notably in Glasgow. Charmingly, in Hindu mythology the amrut itself is a golden pot containing the elixir of life.

Michter’s Small Batch Bourbon Whiskey Bourbon Whiskey Age: –

Vol: 45.7%

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New Releases: Spring 2017

Michter’s Single Barrel Rye Whiskey

70CL

Straight Rye Whiskey

£59

Age: –

Deep amber in hue; good viscosity. A mellow aroma, redolent of a maturation warehouse – fresh oak and vanilla, with a hint of Virginia tobacco and a dollop of ice cream. Nose-drying overall. Water changes it radically: now more resinous (pine resin, turpentine), dusty, woody. The taste is sweet, then oaky; slightly bitter at full strength and a shortish, warming finish. Benefits from a drop of water.

70CL Vol: 42.4%

£59

Deep amber, with scarlet lights and impressive viscosity. A mellow nose, highly perfumed – scented hand-cream, powder compact, ladies soft leather clutch bag. Smooth texture; lightly sweet taste, scented, with a trace of pepper in the finish and cedarwood pencil box in the aftertaste. A drop of water brings up oak shavings; best enjoyed straight.

J I must confess never having heard of michter’s. Intriguingly, the bottle label records: “Distilled in small batches according to the Michter’s pre-Revolutionary War quality standards dating back to 1753”. It’s an interesting story. The distillery was founded by Swiss Mennonite farmers, John and Michael Shenk in Schaefferstown, Pennsylvania, producing rye whiskey. Local lore has it that General George Washington visited in 1776 and bought supplies of their whiskey to fortify his troops during the bitter winter at Valley Forge – hence the claim that it was “the whiskey which warmed the American Revolution”. During the 1780s, John Shenk’s son-in-law, Rudolph Meyer, took over and focused on whiskeymaking rather than farming, so the enterprise can justifiably claim to be among the oldest commercial distilleries in the United States. During the 19th century it was owned by descendants of the founding family until 1919. It was closed during Prohibition (1919-34) and passed through several hands until it was bought by Louis Forman who hired Charles Everett Beam, of the well-known Kentucky distilling family, and installed a pot still. He named his old-fashioned, sour mash bourbon ‘Michter’s’ after his two sons Michael and Peter in 1956, and the distillery’s name was changed to match its product in 1978. At the time it was the only pot-still bourbon made in America since Prohibition. Alas, the general downturn in bourbon sales bankrupted the company and Michter’s Distillery was abandoned. The brand name was bought in the 1990s by Joseph Magliocco and Dick Newman, who were resolved “to honor the Michter’s legacy by producing the best whiskey possible, cost be damned!” Production was moved to two locations in Louisville, Kentucky, and employed Willie Pratt as Master Distiller. 43

| my whiskeria

No woman is an island

From Canada to the UK, novice whisky blogger to Balvenie Brand Ambassador, Alwynne Gwilt aka Miss Whisky has come a long way with a little help from her friends. —

Photography: Brian Sweeney Assistant: Jonni Make Up: Suzanne Smith

Knowledge Bar

Miss Whisky Alwynne Gwilt

Born: British Columbia, Canada Based: London, England

• Current role: The Balvenie UK Ambassador • Formerly: Ground-breaking blogger, Miss Whisky www.misswhisky.com

| my whiskeria

W “I heard this analogy years and years ago: If you’re a Michelin-starred chef, you’re going to use the best possible ingredients to make a dish. So, whether for a particular cocktail the best ingredient is a blended whisky or the best ingredient is a single malt, just choose whichever is the best for that serving ”

You came to whisky as a total novice – what resources did you use when you first started out learning about whisky? When I first started writing about whisky after I initially tried it and liked it, I had about four years of drinking it as a consumer. You just start picking stuff up, because when you’re interested in something, then I find you naturally sponge it up a bit more. The thing that’s always been really nice about the whisky industry is that there are a lot of mentors. I’ve known Charlie [MacLean] for a few years now, and whenever I see him we can always have a good catch up, and he’s asked me to do some contributions for his latest book that’ll be coming out this year! There’s a really nice feeling in the industry. Did you read other whisky blogs before you started blogging yourself? I didn’t know anyone in the whisky community at all. The first actual whisky event I went to, after deciding to quit my job, probably six months before the website launched, was with Cat Spencer, now The Global Brand Manager at Drambuie. I had literally just Googled ‘Women in Whisky’ and the next night she happened to be hosting her inaugural Women in Whisky tasting, completely randomly. I went along and told her what I was thinking of doing. That was just five and a half years ago, and she’s always popped up since and we’ve become friends. So, right at the start I got introduced to these fantastic people like Mark Thomson, who is now the Glenfiddich Brand Ambassador for the UK, who had happened to see something come up from one of my old blogs and asked if I wanted to come along for one of his tastings. He introduced me to people like Marcin Miller of First Drinks, and Sam Simmons of The Balvenie, both of whom have felt like mentors to me. When I said that I’m going to do this website, those people were like “drop us a line as soon as it’s going, let us know how it goes”. And they’ve always been there in some capacity, and that’s grown over the years. What that support ended up doing was

growing my knowledge, very quickly and quite substantially in terms of whisky. Because you did come along leaps and bounds… It was very quick. When you start something yourself, you’re putting all of your time and energy and life into it, and it feels really long! And then people say, “ Oh wow, that’s not that long!”, and in my head I’m like, “Oh my lord, I’ve been doing this forever!” but it’s not, in the grand scheme of things. So, what’s the timeline then – you were a journalist before? I started in journalism when I was 16 at my local newspaper, and then went to journalism school to do my degree in broadcast in Toronto, where I worked for local newspapers and TV. I decided to go to the other side of the country for university, much to my dad’s dismay! Is your dad a special influence on your career? He is, massively. He’s always there to bounce ideas off and talk through things. For the past three years, I’ve actually been able to go out to the Victoria Whisky Festival in Canada (which is where my dad lives) and do the opening tasting. You mentioned you had another blog before Miss Whisky… Yeah – I had one called ‘Gwilty Pleasures’… That got me into food and drink blogging, because that was what I was interested in. Originally I was never going to start a blog; I was very much a traditional journalist, thinking I’d just pitch articles to newspapers and do it that way. Actually, it was Tim Hayward, who was the food editor of The Guardian, who was doing this class. I asked him for some advice, and he said “You’ve got to start a blog, that’s really the only way to do it nowadays”, and I thought “Oh God, really?” I didn’t even know how to do that, or what that would mean. It was this foreign concept to me, six years ago. So, that’s what made me decide to go down that route, rather than a more traditional journalistic side.

Do you miss that journalistic side? Do you miss being the writer, the reporter? Yeah, sometimes! I think what fascinated me always about journalism was the opportunity to meet people and learn about their stories. I love hearing people’s stories and then getting to portray them to the wider world. Do you find a mirroring of that in the whisky industry? You do! You really do. And I think people are always willing to have a sit down and chat with you. Whether that’s someone like Charlie MacLean, or it’s one of the guys who works on the floor maltings at Balvenie – if you ask questions, then they want to tell you. And the Scots are always really chatty, which is really nice! Standing up and talking in front of people, in some ways, is a spoken form of journalism. You’re still reporting back these stories – maybe what you’ve learned from your travels, what you’ve picked up from these other people – then giving it to another audience. I remember doing my first whisky tasting being unbelievably nervous. Properly, properly scared. And then I got into it and thought, “This is kind of the same thing! I’m just reporting in a different fashion!” I love standing up now and getting to talk to people, because you also get to ask them questions and get their feedback, it’s about having that interaction. So, what are the most interesting and crazy things you’ve heard since you’ve been in the whisky industry – any wild stories? I have heard a couple of stories… I’m pretty sure it was George Grant at Glenfarclas who was travelling through the airport with lots of bricks of peat, trying to go through security in an Asian country, and them thinking it was definitely not peat! Usually the stories centre around travel – people ending up in these situations where none of their whisky shows up for an event and they have to just wing it. I’m sure there are many, many more wilder stories. I know there are plenty of conversations around people who have drunk

| my whiskeria

too much. But actually, I always say that I drink less working in the whisky industry than I did as a journalist – I can get to the end of a tasting and a 14-hour day having not had a sip of whisky, because I’m so focused on disseminating the information to other people. So, what inspired you to come across to the UK in the first place? I had finished uni and the newspaper I was working at needed someone in London, and I have British citizenship because my dad is English. I thought I would come over for a year, because it was just a freelance job. I ended up just falling in love with London and staying, much to my family’s disappointment! And how did that eventually lead to becoming a whisky expert? My first job was at a publishing company. After realising I wanted to stay I thought I’d get a full-time job, because getting paid in Canadian dollars and living in London is a very, very quick way to bankruptcy. The job was with an insurance magazine, of all things, which I have no interest in! But they asked me in my interview if I liked to drink, and if I would be comfortable going out to events in the evenings. Given I was 22, and they were going to pay me a fairly good salary for a 22 year old, I thought, “Yeah! Why not! I’ll learn about insurance”. It was actually my editor for the insurance magazine who made me go along to the whisky event… Once in a while I’ll email him and be like, “This is all your fault”! Do you remember what the first whiskies you tried were? Sadly not. It always annoys me, because I usually make notes on so many things. But it was just a networking evening – we went around and tasted different whiskies and they really blew me away – I thought: “I have to learn more about this.” What’s your favourite style of whisky these days? I have to say, it changes a lot. I find I drink

different whiskies at different times of the year. I won’t necessarily pick up a heavier, peaty whisky in the height of summer – I’ll like fresher, Japanese, Irish, maybe lighter Scottish whiskies at that time. And then peatier whiskies in the autumn. Since you’ve been working in the industry, world whiskies have really taken off… I think the nice thing about the proliferation of whisky is that more and more people are talking about it on things like social media. Nowadays, it’s amazing how quickly people find out about things. Suddenly you’re seeing new distilleries opening, and within seconds everybody around the world is talking about them. Well, that’s within the whisky space anyway. Within the consumer space I still get questions like, “Wow, Japan makes whisky?” It’s amazing, when you’re invested in it so much it’s just normal to you. But actually, a lot of consumers don’t know that a country like Japan, which has been making whisky since the ’20s, has even been doing that. And then you say, “Well, what about places like Tasmania? And Taiwan? Or India?” – all these countries that do make it. I think the one continent that’s kind of missing out a bit at the moment is South America. And I’m surprised, because they’ve obviously got so many drinks like Cachaça in Brazil, or Tequila and Mezcal in Mexico. I’m amazed they haven’t fully jumped on the bandwagon, because blended whisky is massive there. What about Canadian whisky? I didn’t like whisky when I lived in Canada – well, I didn’t know I liked whisky when I lived there – so I kind of missed out. I’ll bring stuff back that you can’t get over here. But a lot of the new releases, I’ve not had much of a chance to try. Was it a shock, going from the statecontrolled liquor environment in Canada to British drinking culture? Yeah, it was! I’d travelled around Europe a fair bit with my best friend, and that was 48

one of the reasons I wanted to move over. I just loved being so close to so many countries that were so different, but also where it was just a little bit more chilled out. We have a very different drinking culture in Canada. It’s changing now, I think… Obviously I’ve not lived there for 9 years, but definitely when I was there it was very expensive, and maybe you would drink at the weekend a little bit. Whereas when I moved here, people would ask “After work drink?” and I thought, “Sorry, what? Really? On a Tuesday? Ok!” Do you think location changes people’s approach to drinking – is it more difficult for people to get into whisky, say, in Canada? I think you have to always search things out more in Canada, because everything’s a lot more expensive. There just isn’t as much of a variety, generally. You’ve got more access to a wider range of interesting spirits here. What’s nice is that it isn’t just growing in London. You look at Glasgow, you look at Edinburgh, Manchester, Bristol – all these places have a fantastic bar scene, led a lot by the cocktail side, which I think is really getting consumers a lot more aware of whisky as well. Do you have any strong opinions on single malt whisky cocktails? I don’t have an issue with it. As long as you can still taste the whisky, and the cocktail is balanced. I heard this analogy years and years ago: “If you’re a Michelin-starred chef, you’re going to use the best possible ingredients to make a dish. So, whether for a particular cocktail the best ingredient is a blended whisky or the best ingredient is a single malt, just choose whichever is the best for that serving”. Because it doesn’t necessarily mean that one is better than the other, it just means that it works better in that situation. Is it just us, or have you started to sound a bit Scottish…? I might just be parroting! I don’t do it consciously at all, but I do have quite a softened Canadian accent.

Knowledge Bar

Miss Whisky's What to watch out for in 2017 1. Continued distillery builds – Scotland is primed for at least seven this year and no doubt many more around the world. It’s still a building boom time. 2. Heather Nelson will, this year, be the first woman to found a distillery on her own in Scotland! She’s due to open Toulvaddie Distillery in late spring/early summer near Tain. 3. More cocktail love for whisky – with Tales of the Cocktail on Tour coming to Edinburgh in April

W “Standing up and talking in front of people, in some ways, is a spoken form of journalism. You’re still reporting back these stories… then giving it to another audience.”

| my whiskeria

A Canadian accent is like a bit of a softer American accent. It depends where you’re from, like if you’re East Coast you’ve got quite a thick accent – if you go quite far East, it’s almost like Swedish: “oot ‘n’ aboot!” etc. ‘Aboot’ sounds Scottish to us! Well, there is such a strong Gaelic connection. When you first started out doing tastings, did you ever worry about your pronunciation? By the time I started talking in front of people I think I’d gotten most of them down. Because you do get so many different ones, “Craig-ell-at-chee” is one of my favourites. We [William Grant & Sons] launched Ailsa Bay this year, and everybody comes up and says “Can I have some of the Islay Bay?” and I have to say “AILSA”, because it’s not an Islay whisky. It’s easy for people to see things and mishear them. How did you get into your job at William Grants? I was doing a lot of freelance consulting work for a lot of different companies – people wanted me to host tastings and things like that. With William Grants, I started working on a lot of stuff with The Balvenie about two years ago, it was one of the first distilleries I went to. Their ambassador was based in Edinburgh and couldn’t always get down to London events, so they asked me if I would do some occasional events, which eventually led to my role as a whisky specialist there – I moved over to be The Balvenie ambassador at the start of this year. Do you collect, or have any whiskies you don’t drink? I do have some that I don’t drink, but that’s mostly stuff I’ve hand-filled at a distillery, and it’s personal. I did some work with anCnoc a few years ago, and they did a personalised bottle with the artist Peter Arkle. I interviewed him, and he did a bottle for me which was really special because it showed the house I grew up in as a child, drawn on the bottle

casing and everything. I keep stuff like that, but nothing really expensive! I was never really savvy enough to pick that up… mainly because I like drinking whisky too much! I’ve got quite a lot… but right now, my partner and I are banning ourselves from buying any more. We’ve got so many open bottles at home, we’re not allowed to open any that are unopened, because we’ve got to get through the ones that are opened first. There are a couple of hundred, so it might take a while to do that…

What sort of whisky drinkers do you meet at your events? There haven’t been many collectors – it’s been more of a consumer base, across all types. There are some people who are very set in their ways and think, “I only drink this kind of whisky!”. You have to get down into the roots of why, and a lot of the time they don’t actually know why! Once you actually get to it and ask, “Well, why don’t you like blended Scotch?”, they say, “Oh, it’s an inferior product!” It’s up to me to question that. It’s about getting people to open up. Not to You’ve become a professional whisky taster make them feel bad, but to ask, “Why is it? Why – can you explain how we should sip whisky, do you think that? Is it just marketing, or is it because and why? you like that product, genuinely?” It’s about getting a little bit more aeration, just like you would with wine, although there’s Do you find it challenging, being the voice a lot more alcohol [in whisky] so it also just of new ideas to a fairly established and helps to soften it out, especially if it’s the first knowledgeable audience? or second sip. Yeah, it definitely is. I might be stood That’s why I also say hold it on the palate – in front of somebody who is maybe 65 or you’ll find if you drink it too quickly and you’ve 70 years old and they’ve drunk whisky their not had any whisky, then it takes a second for entire lives. You have to find ways of doing your palate and your brain to adjust to the fact it that are educational and not patronising, that you’re going to drink something really because that’s the last thing you want. I hate strong on its own. It’s about consciously having being patronised, so why would I want to a think about what you’re doing. do that to someone else? I always say, “Whisky takes a long time to It’s certainly the case for topics like whisky get to you, so take a long time with it”. cocktails, whisky and ice, whisky and water. How do you drink it, and what do you do? When you do a tasting, do you assume everyone in the room is coming at it with We take it, then, that you’re open-minded to different levels of experience? serving whisky in lots of different ways? I usually ask. It’s amazing how much If you want to mix then go ahead with confusion is out there. There are so many green tea, or ginger beer, or whatever you want! different words we use. Normally for a lot It’s your prerogative, at the end of the day. of consumers they probably know the brand I made a cherry ice cream with Famous rather than if it’s a single malt or a blend, or Grouse Black Alpha last year, which was what the difference is, or why they might like amazing. So, I bet it would be really good with something, and not like another thing. Cherry Coke as well! I feel like I need to test I remember I did one tasting where I that out… had somebody who was a massive collector A whisky coke float is amazing, and one of of Balvenie, and somebody who had never my most favourite things is to pour whisky on ever drunk whisky in her entire life. It was top of ice cream. It’s a great dessert, and also going to be her first ever whisky, so it was a the easiest party trick ever! lot of pressure. It’s about how you make it interesting for all people; that’s when we talk about the stories, and we take it away from just the whisky. 50

W â&#x20AC;&#x153;Whisky takes a long time to get to you, so take a long time with it.â&#x20AC;?

A UNIQUE SINGLE MALT Thanks to a unique combination of natural alchemy and centuries old craftsmanship, The Balvenie is unique among single malts.

Handcrafted to be enjoyed responsibly.

THE BALVENIE

Thirty AGED 30 YEARS The Balvenie Thirty is a rare and especially fine single malt for which David Stewart selects only exceptional casks that were laid down over thirty years ago. By marrying The Balvenie slowly aged in traditional oak whisky casks with that aged in European oak sherry casks, David creates a rich, mellow Scotch whisky with unusual depth and complexity. NOSE Silky smooth and honeyed on the nose with mellow oaky tones and hints of candied orange peel.

TASTE Great depth with rich dark chocolate, hints of plum, marzipan and caramelised pear.

FINISH Exceptionally smooth and warming with gentle spice and lingering sweetness.

THE BALVENIE

Forty AGED 40 YEARS To create The Balvenie Forty, Malt Master David Stewart has skilfully married together small amounts of The Balvenie matured in 4 refill hogsheads and 3 sherry butts that have lain in our warehouses for at least forty years. NOSE Rich oak notes overlaid with baked apple, stewed fruits and soft leather. The addition of a little water releases sweet fruit notes and hints of vanilla.

TASTE Silky texture delivers a beautifully mouth coating sweetness and a spicy sensation developing with hints of dark chocolate and sherried fruitiness.

FINISH Rich, warming and slightly dry.

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Plockton –

Jewel of the Highlands —

Words and Pictures: Claire Bell

There are times when you just want to turn your back on the world. To retreat, turn down the volume and sit in silence on the edge of a loch far older than you will ever be. Towards the end of 2016, on the day I turned 40, I sat all day in total silence on a wooden bench on the edge of Loch Carron in the Highland village of Plockton. The bench was engraved with the words: “It’s not the years of your life that count, it’s the life in your years.” Occasionally, throughout the day, some geese flew by, but mostly I was alone, beneath an ice blue sky and a lukewarm yellow sun, contemplating the 40 years that had been, and those that were to come. There was nowhere else in the world I would rather have been. For those travellers who come to Scotland on a whisky trail, Plockton is unlikely to make it onto their must-see list. There are no distilleries in this north-west corner of mainland Scotland, and with the island of Skye, home to Talisker, just miles away, travellers will be forgiven for shooting past, their eyes transfixed on the misty isle across the bridge. But to do so is to miss one of the country’s most magical villages. Tucked on the southern shore of Loch Carron, its back turned to the moody winds of the south-west, its gaze firmly north towards the rogue peaks of Wester Ross, this conservation village has all the drama of the

Knowledge Bar

Plockton Scotland Grid Ref: 57° 20' 0" N, 5° 39' 0" W Population: 378 A National Trust for Scotland conservation village Situated on the shores of Loch Carron in the North West Highlands of Scotland. A direct train service runs from Inverness to Plockton via one of Scotland's most spectacular stretches of railway. A sleeper service is also available from Euston, London. Activites in Plockton include walking, sailing, kayaking, mountain biking For more information on visiting The Jewel of the Highlands visit: www.plockton.com

Plockton

Fort William

Edinburgh

W â&#x20AC;&#x153;Plockton makes you wonder what Scotland might have been like if Highlanders had not been evicted from their lands during the years 1750-1880.â&#x20AC;?

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west of Scotland, without the tempest. In fact, it is so sheltered, many of the lochside gardens belonging to the village’s row of neatly-painted cottages have their own palm tree. But while silence is part of its bounty, this is not a lifeless village. It is home to a school where legendary Gaelic poet Sorely MacLean was headmaster for many years, and a college for traditional music. When groups of teenagers walk by, blaring tunes on their mobile phones, they are more likely to be listening to bagpipes than Beyoncé. There are a couple of popular pubs, one with weekly live music sessions, and the other that doubles as a hotel that boasts a fine collection of gins as well as whiskies. Plockton makes you wonder what Scotland might have been like if Highlanders had not been evicted from their lands during the years 1750-1880, to make way for more profitable tenants: sheep. Though that’s not to say Plockton went untouched by the Highland Clearances. Originally called Am Ploc, it was a crofting hamlet until the end of the 1700s, and it was from Loch Carron that many ships left to take evicted Scots to new lives in Canada and America. In 1801, Sir Hugh Innes – one of the Highland landowners responsible for driving people off the land – had the bright idea of increasing the value of his estate by offering tenants an alternative to emigration: resettle in

a new fishing port he had developed by the name of ‘Plocktown’. It was the era of the herring boom and Plockton grew to over 500 people, with many living two families to a cottage. But the boom ended suddenly when the fish changed their migration patterns, and before long Plockton became known as Baile na Bochdainn, or village of the poor – a far cry from where it is today, where the prettiest cottages sell for over £200,000, and a highlight of the year is an annual sailing regatta, held over a fortnight in July. You don’t have to have your own yacht to take to the waters though. From spring through to October a local character, Calum, runs daily seal-spotting trips in his wee red boat. His rule is that you only pay if you see a seal (99.9% guaranteed), but Captain Calum’s dry wit is as much worth paying for as the seals themselves. Landlubbers can try seal-spotting from a promontory at the end of the village where the owners of a big house have turned their coastal garden into a walking trail open to the public. For would-be suitors, this lochside woodland walk is worth committing to memory. Halfway round a roughly painted wooden sign marks out ‘Proposal Point’, and if you want to seal the deal in a natural setting, Plockton is home to an open-air church.

During a ‘Disruption’ of the Church of Scotland in 1843, when 450 evangelical ministers left the church in protest against the interference of rich patrons in the selection of parish ministers, the newly founded antiestablishment ‘Free Church’ was without a place of worship and moved their weekly Gaelic services onto a grassy knoll. It isn’t signposted, but look out for a few stone steps on the right-hand side of the road, between the village and the high school. The church lies just beyond a stone archway, and remains a beautiful spot to contemplate the past and the present. We discovered the church, later that week, while taking the local fisherman’s dog for a walk. Our own dog Breagha – who we found as a puppy on the island of Barra and named after the Gaelic word for beauty – had died tragically earlier that year and our Highland retreat was tinged with sadness. Plockton, though, is the kind of place where visitors are greeted with the same warmth as locals, and when hearing of our heavy hearts, a local fisherman invited us to take his dog Sacha for a stroll, while he was out on the loch fishing for prawns and scallops. Sacha didn’t seem to find it odd that strangers were taking her out on a walk, and led us with confidence along a well-trodden path that runs between the eastern shore of Loch Carron and the train track to Inverness, passing

W “A Plockton retreat would not be complete without a trip along Bealach na Bà (Pass of the Cattle), an old drovers’ road with the greatest ascent of any road climb in Britain.” a crumbling stone crofting house, ruinous proof of the Highland Clearances. The gentle lapping of loch water is interrupted only by the shrill calls of oystercatchers and toots of an occasional passing train. It’s like being on an adventure with Enid Blyton’s Famous Five, and the feeling was complete when the path led us to the gardens of a grand old castle built by a smuggler. Dunraig Castle was built by Alexander Matheson, nephew of the infamous James Matheson, both of whom made their fortunes from smuggling opium into China. When China tried to stop this nefarious trade on the grounds that the drug was destroying their people, Britain, prompted by the Scottish traders, went to war against China in the Opium Wars. Having made his millions, Alexander Matheson retired from his Far East trade at the tender age of 36 and built the castle to entertain his friends and acquaintances. He considered a railway station to be essential for the convenience of his guests, and to this day the castle has its own private railway station as a request stop. Curiously, Dunraig Castle

is now owned by a couple who also made their fortune in war games – paintballing – and is in the process of being turned into a grand and quirky hotel, in which the owners plan to hang a Formula One racing car from the ceiling in the entrance hallway. As you do. Today though, one of the biggest local landowners is the National Trust for Scotland, who manage Balmacara Estate that stretches down to the shore of Loch Alsh. There are 15 miles of paths, with perhaps the easiest and most charming being a stroll through Balmacara woodland – a place so sheltered, that when all the leaves in Scotland have already gone to ground, the trees of Balmacara still flaunt their reds and golds. Halfway along is a bench, perfectly positioned with views of Skye to the right, framed by an umbrella pine, and the distant mountains of Glenelg and Knoydart to the left, making you wonder if you have stumbled into the realm of the gods. Take a flask and a picnic and while away a few hours, or continue on to Beth’s café at the old steadings at Balmacara Square, where it’s a tough choice between a haggis, cheese and onion panini and Margaret’s Marvelous Macaroni.

A Plockton retreat would not be complete without a trip along Bealach na Bà (Pass of the Cattle), an old drovers’ road with the greatest ascent of any road climb in Britain, winding up from the northern shore of Loch Kishorn and over to the remote village of Applecross – where the local inn serves up the best fish and chips in all of the UK. Nowadays, this single-track road has been fear-proofed by metal barriers in all the right places, but up high in the crags, where mists sweep in in a heartbeat, and where drivers reassure each other with friendly hand signals, you might find yourself contemplating that we’re just passing through this life. Just passing through. Best make the most of it.

AWARD WINNING SINGLE MALT WHISKY

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Glenfiddich Rare Collection 1992 Single Cask

Glen Garioch 1978

– 70CL | 56.3% VOL | £1200

– 70CL | 51.7% VOL | £395

➛ We’re proud to stock a selection of whiskies exclusive to The Whisky Shop. From limited edition bottlings to old and rare whiskies, single malts to singularly superb blends, these whiskies are for our customers only

What is it? Single cask bottlings don’t crop up that often from this famous distillery – and that makes them even more desirable! Selected by The Whisky Shop team and one lucky customer alongside Glenfiddich Malt Master Brian Kinsman, this whisky comes from a refill bourbon cask filled on 13th March 1992, the year that The Whisky Shop was founded. The very first cask to be released from the Glenfiddich Rare Collection, it is limited to just 200 bottles.

What is it? This whisky hails from Glen Garioch’s glory days, when it was just as famous for its tasty tomatoes as its delicious whisky thanks to an innovative greenhouse project that gained BBC Scotland coverage for its ingenious recycling of distillery energy. Non chill-filtered and bottled at cask strength, this expression comes from North American Oak, Cask No.11000, quietly matured at Glen Garioch Distillery from 1978 until we hand selected it in 2011.

What’s it like? The Rare Collection whiskies are from casks specially chosen for displaying the seductive aromas and characteristics typical of older Glenfiddich single malts. Bottled at 55.6% ABV, this whisky certainly shows off the distillery character, boasting lots of orchard fruits including apples, pears, plums and even a little citrus, with just a hint of oak and spice.

What’s it like? An extremely sophisticated dram with a distinct Speyside character and moreish nature. Lashings of juicy fresh fruit are joined by depth of flavour from a handful of dried fruits too, all married with vanilla thanks to the long maturation in American oak. A thoroughly enjoyable dram that collectors may not be able to resist opening!

Aberfeldy 1991

Aberfeldy 1996

Blue Hanger 8th Limited Release

– 70CL | 53.5% VOL | £320

– 70CL | 61.5% VOL | £160

– 70CL | 45.6% VOL | £95

What is it? A limited edition single cask expression from Aberfeldy distillery in Perthshire, distilled in 1991 and filled into cask No.6394 where it matured for 24 years. Only 195 bottles were created on 1st October 2015, at a strength of 53.5% vol, and all are exclusively available to The Whisky Shop customers.

What is it? The whisky for this Aberfeldy bottling was distilled in 1996 and then specially selected by members of The W Club in collaboration with staff from The Whisky Shop Edinburgh in March 2013. It is a fabulous single cask expression, exclusively picked for, and by, The Whisky Shop customers!

What is it? Blue Hanger, a luxurious 21 year old blend, is named after William Hanger, the 3rd Lord Coleraine, a loyal customer of Berry Bros. & Rudd during the late 18th century. He was renowned for the striking blue clothes he wore and gained the soubriquet, 'Blue Hanger'.

What’s it like? Charlie MacLean’s tasting notes describe “the attractive waxy aroma found in old Aberfeldys… backed by a fresh-fruity complex and completed by a thread of smoke. The texture is both smooth and chalky; the taste sweet and tannic, with a hint of grapefruit; the finish long and warming”.

What’s it like? Brimming with vanilla notes and juicy stewed fruits. It also packs in some typical warming oak flavours thanks to its fairly long maturation. At once sweet and zesty, it promises fresh green cut grass to balance out the woody flavour.

What’s it like? Bottled at 45.6% volume, this whisky retains its natural colour and is non chill-filtered. Sure to warm the taste buds, it boasts sweet vanilla and caramel over a woody character with a hint of spice.

Hunter Laing

The Old Malt Cask Glen Grant 25 Year Old

The Old Malt Cask Ardmore 20 Year Old

What is it? One of the first distilleries to market their whisky as a ‘single’ in the 1870s, Glen Grant has a longer tradition than most of producing crowd-pleasing, smooth-drinking single malts. Distilled in June 1991, just 150 bottles were filled from a sherry hogshead in 2016.

What is it? One of only 148 bottles produced from a refill hogshead in November 2016, originally distilled in October 1996. Unusually for a Highland distillery, Ardmore uses – and always has used – medium-peated malt to create its distinctively smoky whisky.

– 70CL | 50% VOL | £160

➛ Three generations of the Laing family have honed their skills in sourcing the very finest whiskies from Scotland, and the international reputation they have gained is richly deserved. We have selected from them the First Editions range of accessible single cask malts, the now infamous Old Malt Cask range, and their superb Platinum Old & Rare range of vintage and collectable whiskies.

What’s it like? In his review in ‘New Releases’ Charles MacLean describes this whisky as having a mellow yet complex nose, with a mixture of cherry liqueur chocolates and moss, toffee and anti-septic cream! The palate is similarly complex and intriguing, combining sweetness with smoke.

– 70CL | 50% VOL | £130

What’s it like? A classic Ardmore single malt with fruity top notes over a peaty base. Water enhances its fragrant nature, while the mouth promises an indulgent mixture of sweet and smoky flavours. Read more from Charlie in ‘New Releases’.

The First Editions Bunnahabhain 9 Year Old

The First Editions Mortlach 9 Year Old

What is it? One of just 363 bottles taken from a refill hogshead in 2016. Distilled in 2007, this fresh young Bunnahbahain is less than a decade old, and so bypasses the lightly peated nature of its older distillery siblings.

What is it? Distilled in 2007 and bottled in 2016 at just 9 years old, this single cask Mortlach was matured in a refill barrel which produced only 289 bottles. Due to its age, this whisky is a fantastic representation of the true Mortlach Distillery character.

– 70CL | 46% VOL | £75

What’s it like? Very pale with a cereal-sweet aroma, mixed with tobacco. Fruity notes follow, along with nods to the Islay distillery’s coastal location. The taste confirms the maritime nature – think a fresh sea breeze. Read more from Charlie in ‘New Releases’.

– 70CL | 46% VOL | £72

What’s it like? Faintly coloured, with a fresh and fruity aroma – stone and orchard fruits, complemented by a subtle sweetness. Well-rounded despite its tender years, with a mixture of sweet and citrus on the palate. Get Charlie’s expert opinion in ‘New Releases’.

New International

Kavalan Solist Manzanilla

Amrut Fusion

– 70CL | 55.6% VOL | £350

– 70CL | 50% VOL | £58

➛ Whisky production is quickly becoming an international phenomenon. In the wake of Japanese whisky’s surge in popularity, other Asian countries are entering the arena – including Taiwan’s Kavalan distillery, and India’s Amrut Distillery. Look west, and you’ll also see America upping its whiskey game, with a variety of stunning bourbon, rye and other styles gaining recognition.

What is it? This Taiwanese Single Malt from the Kavalan Solist series is matured in Manzanilla sherry casks bringing a light texture with a delicate touch of salt and mineral flavours.

What is it? A multi-award winning whisky created in Bangalore, India, using a fusion of barleys with different provenance; half is Indian-grown barley, sourced from the foothills of the Himalayas, and half is from Scotland, where the barley is malted and dried over peat. Cited as the best whisky for a Rob Roy cocktail.

What’s it like? The nose is complex with layers of fruit and toffee, along with cocoa, honeydew melon and a pinch of salt. The palate is well-balanced with salt and sweet vanilla, joined by orange, melon and mint.

What’s it like? A punchy 50% vol whisky that is nevertheless fairly mild on the nose. Sweet toffee, oak and dried fruits are transformed into a milkchocolatey flavour with a splash of water. The addition of peat to the make-up promises a hint of smoke and spice at the finish. Read Charlie’s full review in ‘New Releases’.

Michter’s Bourbon

Michter’s Rye

– 70CL | 45.7% VOL | £59

– 70CL | 42.4% VOL | £59

What is it? A truly small batch whisky made from a carefully selected mashbill featuring the very best quality American corn, matured in wellseasoned barrels (8+ years old). The small batch approach – where no more than 12 barrels compose each bottling – leaves no room for error, meaning each stage of production must be executed to perfection!

What is it? One of Michter’s Distillery’s renowned products. A classic American straight rye whisky made using specially selected American grain. Michter’s Straight Rye comes from a single barrel and is ideal neat or for use in cocktails

What’s it like? A delicious, fine-tuned Kentucky bourbon, promising rich caramel with balanced vanilla, stone fruits, smoky depth and an oaked finish. Charlie also mentions Virginia tobacco and ice cream in his tastings notes, which you’ll find in ‘New Releases’.

What’s it like? An exemplary rye whisky, boasting classic spice and peppery notes balanced by zingy citrus, luscious butterscotch and oak from the fire-charred new American white oak barrels. For more information see Charlie’s tasting notes in ‘New Releases’.

Glenkeir Treasures

Glenkeir Treasures The Secret Islay

Glenkeir Treasures Ledaig 7 Year Old

– 50CL | 40% VOL | £55

– 50CL | 40% VOL | £40

➛ Our unique Glenkeir Treasures range is going into its twelfth year of widespread approval by customers. We pick the best casks we can find and offer a selection of bottle sizes to suit. Our quarter bottle 20cl size is compact and robust and a favourite with travellers.

What is it? A limited release that is exclusively available at The Whisky Shop. Sourced from an undisclosed Islay distillery by our experts, this whisky was distilled in 2011 and bottled in 2016. It has been chosen for its classic Islay character.

What is it? Hailing from the Tobermory Distillery on the Isle of Mull comes Ledaig, the island’s ‘smoky’ whisky. This 7 year old expression was distilled in 2009 and is a youthful and accessible introduction to the distillery’s signature style.

What’s it like? Aromas of smoke from a beach bonfire and a refreshing fruitiness. The peat smoke characteristics continue on the palate where they are joined by a slight saltiness and fresh citrus notes. The finish is complex with a combination of warming spices and green fruits.

What’s it like? A magnificent island whisky combining smoke, peat and seaweed. If you’re a fan of the classic Islay single malts – or know someone who is – this is a wonderful ‘something different’ that’s sure to hit the spot.

Glenmorangie

Glenmorangie Grand Vintage Malt 1990

Glenmorangie Bacalta Private Edition No.8

What is it? The first expression in Glenmorangie’s new Bond House No.1 Collection, which gives fans the chance to taste the ‘origins’ of the distillery’s most famous releases. 1990 was a particularly important year for Glenmorangie, making it a fantastic vintage to kick off this special series.

What is it? Classic, refined Glenmorangie spirit, matured first in ex-bourbon casks then re-racked into exMadeira casks, in-keeping with the distillery’s signature ‘finishing’ style. According to Charles MacLean (full review in ‘New Releases’.) the name ‘Bacalta’ is derived from the Gaelic for ‘baked’, referencing the sunbaked fruit flavours imparted by the finishing casks.

– 70CL | 43% VOL | £500

➛ Founded by the Matheson brothers in 1843, Glenmorangie distillery makes one of the world’s most popular single malt whiskies. Other than closure between 1931 and 1936 as a result of US Prohibition, the distillery continued undisturbed until it was sold to Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessey for £300 million in 2004. Glenmorangie is recognised as a pioneer in ‘finished malts’ having released a number of special wood finishes during the 1990’s – something unprecedented at that time.

What’s it like? The product of an exceptional and odds-defying year at the Northern Highland distillery: abundant almond and floral aromas on an orchard fruit base. Light and sweet on the palate – find out more from Charlie MacLean in ‘New Releases’.

– 70CL | 46% VOL | £84

What’s it like? Visually and aromatically reminiscent of Golden Syrup, accompanied by warming ginger spiciness. The flavour is also lusciously sweet and with comforting ginger and white chocolate, accented by citrus with the addition of water.

Glenfarclas Family Casks

The Family Casks are a unique collection of the best single casks from the Glenfarclas Distillery’s warehouses. Launched in 2007, the collection initially comprised 43 single cask bottlings – with one cask from every year from 1952 to 1994 – and continues to grow as a range of consecutive vintage dated single casks are added. Since 2007 further releases have replaced casks which have sold out, and extended the range to include vintages up to the year 2002. The Family Casks are bottled at cask strength and natural colour, allowing you to explore the subtle differences between casks and the history of family owned Glenfarclas. If you’re searching for an extra special gift to honour the landmark birthday of a whiskyloving friend or family member, look no further! Whether they’re celebrating a 21st or 60th, there’s a whisky in this fantastic collection to mark the occasion. Bottles will be limited in availability, and prices can be found upon enquiry at The Whisky shop stores or by calling 0141 427 2919. — The vintages shown below represent bottles that may be purchased for significant birthdays in 2017

1957: 60th Birthdays 1967: 50th Birthdays 1977: 40th Birthdays 1987: 30th Birthdays 1992: 25th Birthdays 1996: 21st Birthdays – 70CL | VARIOUS

St. Patrick’s Day ➛ Raise a toast to Ireland’s patron saint (who’s not actually a saint at all… read more on p.96) with our pick of the very tastiest Irish whiskeys this St. Patrick’s Day! Whether you’re wetting the shamrock, chasing a pint of Guinness, or need some Dutch courage before being flung about at a proper Irish ceili, these drams will be sure to do the trick.

Redbreast 12 Year Old

Yellow Spot

– 70CL | 40% VOL | £49

– 70CL | 46% VOL | £85

What is it? A single pot still whiskey full of aroma and flavour, Redbreast 12 Year Old benefits from a strong contribution of distillates which have matured in Oloroso sherry casks.

What is it? Yellow Spot Whiskey was last seen in Ireland in the 1950s and ’60s but recently reintroduced. Created and sold by Mitchell & Son Wine and Spirit Merchants, it’s a 12 year old single pot still whiskey, made using three different cask types – American Bourbon barrels, Spanish sherry butts and Spanish Malaga casks.

What’s it like? The Redbreast 12 Year Old is known for its Christmas cake character, and Chrismtas cake means celebration. That, along with other indulgent flavours such as chocolate, honey and sherry, balanced by cereal and marmalade, makes it a fantastic dram to toast St. Patrick!

What’s it like? A superbly complex whiskey with fresh and sweet top notes thanks to the triple cask finishing. Expect stewed fruits, peaches, creamy almonds and sweet caramel with cereal notes and a little spice.

Green Spot – 70CL | 40% VOL | £45 What is it? Don a little green for St. Paddy with this no age statement single pot still Irish whiskey, comprised of liquids aged between 7 and 10 years old. The whiskey has matured in a combination of new bourbon and refill bourbon casks, as well as sherry casks. Formerly only available at Dublin grocer Mitchell’s, it has gained worldwide popularity. What’s it like? The combination of cask finishes has imparted a varied but ultimately easy-drinking, soft and light character to this whisky. You can expect everything from chocolate toffees and creamy caramel to tobacco and citrus with a hint of mint thrown in. A delightful crowd-pleaser (much like St. Patrick himself!).

The Loch Fyne Botanical Gin

The Loch Fyne

– 50CL | 42% VOL | £24 What is it? Another delightful hand-crafted product from the Loch Fyne Whiskies workshop, where the staff possess an intimate understanding of what customers like. This gin stands out in the ever-expanding marketplace with a clever infusion of Scottish maritime botanicals.

➛ Created in the tiny Loch Fyne Whiskies workshop, located in the Royal Burgh of Inveraray, The Loch Fyne Whiskies collection includes blends, rare single cask releases, the ever-evolving Living Cask series, some delicious whisky liqueurs and a brand new gin too.

What’s it like? A classy, balanced and distinctive gin with plenty of aromatic appeal and a lingering, sweet herbal finish. At the heart is juniper, coriander and orange peel, complemented by the addition of sea buckthorn, heather pearls, lemon peel and traditional milk thistle seed to create a light, subtly Scottish gin. A joy to drink.

The Loch Fyne Craigellachie 10 Year Old

– 50CL | 46% VOL | £65 What is it? The latest single cask limited edition from the Loch Fyne Whiskies range, this 10 year old Speyside single malt from Craigellachie distillery is limited to just 525 bottles. Distilled in 2006 and bottled in December 2016. What’s it like? A beautiful golden colour, owed in part to the sherry cask used during maturation, the taste is every bit as beautiful with rich fruit notes throughout. Burnt sugar, candy and raisins mingle with a touch of treacle before a deliciously satisfying finish.

Customer Favourites

Bowmore Laimrig

Talisker Port Ruighe

– 70CL | 54.1% VOL | £70

– 70CL | 45.8% VOL | £52

➛ The whiskies our customers love provide a happy hunting ground for shoppers. From the smoky Islays to the sumptuous GlenDronach, there is something here for everyone.

Bottled exclusively for The Whisky Shop, ‘Laimrig’ is the Scottish Gaelic for 'pier' and celebrates Bowmore's ancient stone pier where the distillery's celebrated single malt first set sail for the four corners of the world. Finished in the finest Spanish sherry butts, the cask strength, non chill-filtered Bowmore Laimrig has a rich, dark character and colour. The palate is full-bodied, with a luxurious raisin and sherry taste, complemented by wood smoke and benefitted by a splash of water. The finish is long and spicy and smoky.

The whisky gurus at Talisker Distillery have taken their seminal Isle of Skye malt and finished it in ruby port casks to create the fantastically rich and fruity Port Ruighe. The nose moves from sea-spray to waxy aromas with a little sweetness. This is mirrored on the palate, with Talisker’s classic maritime character being rounded off and dramatically sweetened by the Port finish. The finish includes cocoa and oak, with even a hint of citrus.

Customer Favourites

BenRiach 10 Year Old Curiositas

BenRiach 20 Year Old

– 70CL | 40% VOL | £45

– 70CL | 43% VOL | £88

A Speyside peated malt may seem curious, but this BenRiach actually represents a return to original 19th century Speyside form. Peat richness is accomplished by using malted barley dried in the traditional way over peat infused kilns, achieving the optimum balance of peatbittersweet and oak infusion after 10 years’ maturation. The undoubtedly peaty nose also promises fragrant honey, while the palate boasts peat smoke followed by a complex mix of heather, nuts, oak wood and spice.

A classic single malt from BenRiach, aged for 20 years in ex-bourbon casks for a gloriously elegant, smooth finish. Full-bodied, it boasts a multifaceted aroma layering spice, nuts, honey, floral and fruity notes. The palate is beautifully round and rich with everything from sweet honey and vanilla, to herbal complexity, woody spice and freshness from mint and green apple. The finish is just as complex and lingering.

GlenDronach 12 Year Old – 70CL | 43% VOL | £45 A signature single malt from the distillery famous for its richly sherried offering. Matured in both Pedro Ximénez and Oloroso sherry casks, it is imbued with an indulgent portfolio of flavours – beginning with aromas of stewed fruits, rhubarb and bramble jam, plus hints of hazel and brown sugar. There’s even a faint charcoal smokiness. The palate follows with rich sherried fruit, Turkish delight, and aniseed complexity. The finish is rich yet clean; spicy yet perfectly balanced.

GlenDronach 18 Year Old Allardice

Bunnahabhain 18 Year Old

anCnoc 12 Year Old

– 70CL | 46% VOL | £90

– 70CL | 46.3% VOL | £100

– 70CL | 40% VOL | £42

Created using waters from the Dronac Burn – which has lent its name to the GlenDronach Distillery – this is a superbly complex single malt made in the characteristic big sherry style. An ode to James Allardice, who founded the distillery and produced the very first drops of ‘guid GlenDronach’, this expression has been matured in the finest Oloroso sherry casks. Rich and dark, it promises remarkable depth of flavour with stewed fruits and all-spice.

Originating from Islay’s north tip, and the distillery whose name translates to mean ‘mouth of the river’, comes a single malt that’s a wee bit different to its island contemporaries. Created using unpeated malted barley and pure spring waters that flow away from the peaty moorlands, Bunnahabhain is known for its unique fruit and nut style. This 18 year old expression adds extra sweet and spice to the mix thanks to a little longer in the cask.

A whisky whose name isn’t taken directly from its home distillery, anCnoc comes from the Highland Knockdhu Distillery. Established in 1894 as the perfect embodiment of a modern distillery, Knockdhu lies on the border of Speyside and produces light, intriguing, forward-thinking whisky. Matured in a combination of ex-bourbon, sherry and second-fill American oak casks, this expression is delicate yet complex, smooth yet challenging, and universally loved for it!

Customer Favourites

Glenfarclas 10 Year Old

Glenfarclas 15 Year Old

– 70CL | 40% VOL | £45

– 70CL | 46% VOL | £60

One of Speyside’s most famous whisky producers also happens to be one of the last remaining familyowned distilleries in Scotland. With a huge range of much-loved whiskies, Glenfarclas is somewhat fabled amongst Scotch drinkers, and this 10 year old is a perennial favourite. The nose is rich with Christmas cake, sherry, raisins, nuts and spice plus a hint of smoke. The palate is surprisingly dry, before sweetening to a full body. The finish is long, nutty and also dry – a real classic.

Awarded 95/100 in Jim Murray’s 2007 Whisky Bible, this 46% vol Speyside whisky certainly leaves a lasting impression, and remains a family favourite amongst the Grant clan. The nose is complex – rich sherried notes and delicious peat balance out with light butterscotch and dried fruit. The palate is fullbodied with big sherry character, malt and peat, leading to a sweet and gently smoky finish.

The Dalmore 12 Year Old

The Dalmore 15 Year Old

Balblair 1999

Balblair 2005

– 70CL | 40% VOL | £50

– 70CL | 40% VOL | £70

– 70CL | 46% VOL | £77

– 70CL | 46% VOL | £56

It’s not surprising that our former Whisky Of The Year retains its status as a firm favourite amongst The Whisky Shop customers. To recap for those who haven’t yet dipped a toe into The Dalmore portfolio, this single malt is a Highland triumph displaying signs of sherry wood maturation: full-bodied, thick, sweet and ‘muscular’. Leathery notes and a long spicy finish add finesse and make this popular dram an absolute must-try.

Matured for 15 years in a trio of ex-sherry casks, as well as exbourbon barrels, The Dalmore’s 15 Year Old is another core range whisky for your bucket list. A stylistic evolution from The Dalmore’s famous 12 Year Old and just as popular, you can expect a similarly varied profile of chocolate orange sweetness, gentle spice and rich warmth. It’s a true testament to the distillery’s creative and ambitious approach.

A full-bodied Highland single malt created at one of Scotland’s oldest and prettiest distilleries. Truly representative of the Balblair house style, the initial aromas are of brown bread and butter that later develop to light vanilla and ground almonds. The palate also takes a journey from sweet to spicy thanks to time in Spanish oak ex-sherry butts. Salty flavours are present at full strength, and water enhances the maritime character with a faint oiliness, creating a softer dram overall.

The first release of the 2005 expression from Balblair – who mark themselves out by bottling by year, rather than vintage. Matured in ex-Bourbon casks, there’s definite honey and vanilla present in this predominantly sweet dram. The nose is all oaky vanilla and citrus with a suggestion of fragrant cut flowers. The palate is reminiscent of citrus and orchard fruits that lift the intense sweetness and lead to a delectably long, spicy finish.

Customer Favourites

Jura ‘Diurachs’ Own’ 16 Year Old

Jura Prophecy

– 70CL | 40% VOL | £56

– 70CL | 46% VOL | £65

Named for the people of Jura this whisky gives you a true taste of the unique Hebridean isle, as defined by those who know it best! Jura’s dram of the people has been treated to double wood maturation in American white oak ex-bourbon and ex-Amoroso Oloroso sherry casks; combined, they’ve lent the whisky a curiously bold character. You’ll detect flavours of Christmas cake, dark chocolate and dried fruit from nose to toasty finish.

A heavily peated expression from Jura Distillery, with a drier and smokier flavour than the ‘standard’ peated Jura Superstition. Released in small batches, it is complex and briny with strong spicy sea spray at the fore. Many taste peat smoke laced with fresh cinnamon in this intensely aromatic whisky with a long lasting flavour.

Glen Scotia 15 Year Old

Glen Scotia Double Cask

– 70CL | 46% VOL | £43

This confident Campbeltown single malt originates from a distillery that’s been going strong since 1832. Non chill-filtered and aged in American oak, it’s a triumph of flavour with everything from citrus to oak, ginger snaps to apricots and a hint of caramel, perfectly representing a region that many Scotch drinkers have overlooked in recent decades, but is finally experiencing something of a resurgence in popularity!

Another cracking Campbeltown dram with plenty of ‘oomph’! This double cask-matured whisky balances vanilla-infused oak with salty sea air tones in an ode to the distillery’s coastal location and its time in first-fill bourbon barrels as well as Pedro Ximénez casks. The latter have lent bold fruit and spice to the mix, creating a whisky of wonderful depth and character.

Bruichladdich The Laddie Scottish Barley

Glenrothes Sherry Cask Reserve

– 70CL | 50% VOL | £50

– 70CL | 40% VOL | £54

Still made to distilling legend Jim McEwan’s original 100% Scottish barley recipe: trickle distilled, matured on the shores of Loch Indaal and crafted from a selection of casks. Described as being “smooth as pebbles in a pool”, expect barley sugar with subtle mint developing to a freshly cut meadow on the nose. Brilliantly clean on the palate, barley and oak are followed by a gust of ripe green fruit, sweet malt, brown sugar and a warm finish.

Maturation in custom-made sherry casks from Jerez, southern Spain (despite costing around five times as much as American ex-bourbon equivalents), gives this whisky a unique, dried fruit and resinous character that underpins the sherry top notes. Expect orange peel, fruit cake, vanilla, ginger bread, black cherries and pear drops on the nose, ginger, spice and oaky notes with an explosion of crème brûlée on the palate.

The W Club Subscriptions

Explorer Safari 2x10cl

➛ Our newly launched W Club subscription service is up and running, alongside the revival of our ever-popular whisky club. What can be more convenient than having a whisky delivered to your door each month? There are three different sampling experiences to pick from; you can sign up for a rolling subscription online or choose from three, six or twelve month gift subscriptions – meaning there’s something for every taste, occasion, and budget!

This subscription sends recipients on a voyage of discovery through the world of whisky, one theme at a time. Why call it a safari? Because we believe it’s the best way to describe the exciting journey you’re about to begin! Once a month, for the duration of the subscription, we’ll post two 10cl samples of whisky direct to your door. Each bottle will contain four measures, allowing a good taste of each. It’s also perfect for sharing – so you could invite someone on Safari with you! A truly unique gift for whisky lovers.

– 1 MONTH ROLLING – £24.99 [PURCHASED ONLINE ONLY]

3 MONTHS – £74.00 6 MONTHS – £149.00 12 MONTHS – £295.00

The W Club – MEMBERSHIP £20: / YEAR GIFT MEMBERSHIP: £39.99

We’ve relaunched our ever-popular W Club to be better than ever. Including a whole host of exciting benefits – such as members-only discounts, a quarterly copy of Whiskeria magazine, exclusive competitions and more – an annual membership will continue to delight whisky fans of any age and experience! For an extra special introduction to The W club you can’t go wrong with the gift membership box, complete with whisky miniature, Glencairn glass, and Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible 2017 too.

Dram-a-Month Deluxe 1x5cl

– 1 MONTH ROLLING – £12.99

Dram-a-Month 1x5cl

[PURCHASED ONLINE ONLY]

3 MONTHS – £38.00 6 MONTHS – £77.00 12 MONTHS – £150.00 An adventure through the realm of rare and hard-to-find whiskies. Once a month, for the duration of the subscription, recipients will receive a 5cl sample of a very special whisky direct to their door. From aged and vintage expressions, to superb limited editions, this is a wonderful opportunity to sample exceptional and expensive liquids you may otherwise be unable to access – it’s also an ideal gift for the whisky aficionado in your life.

– 1 MONTH ROLLING – £6.99 3 MONTHS – £20.00 6 MONTHS – £41.00 12 MONTHS – £80.00

Embark on a trip through the world of whisky, one dram at a time! We’ve got everything from new releases through to obscure drams and, every once in a while, a very special ‘Golden Dram’, which we’ll be posting to recipients one 5cl sample bottle at a time on a monthly basis. This is the perfect gift for novice whisky fans, or anyone who wants to expand their knowledge of whisky!

➛ Directory 2017 The W Club Join The W Club and you will receive all future editions of Whiskeria. ➛ www.thewclub.co.uk

Online Visit ➛ whiskyshop.com to buy your whisky the easy way and discover news, reviews, tasting notes, deals, and more! ➛ facebook.com/thewhiskyshop ➛ twitter.com/thewhiskyshop

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| mixing it up

Situated on the shores on Loch Fyne, The George Hotel, Inveraray, may seem unassuming â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but behind its historical walls, the staff are poised to serve up an unforgettable taste of modern Scottish hospitality â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Photography: Christina Kernohan Assistant: Alix McIntosh

Clockwise from top: The George Hotel; taste your way round the bar with a whisky flight; the original till flanked by an impressive collection of spirits

Choc Tail 25ml Baileys 25ml Vanilla Vodka 25ml Creme de Cacao 70ml Hot Chocolate mix a Prepare hot chocolate powder with boiling water to make paste / Shake all ingredients in shaker with ice / Double strain into a chilled martini glass with chocolate sauce and grated chocolate

Rob Roy 50ml Blended Whisky 15ml Martini Rosso Dash of Bitters

a Stir all ingredients for 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;2 minutes with ice / Double strain into chilled martini glass / Garnish with maraschino cherry

Botanist Bramble 50ml Botanist Gin 50ml Lemon juice 10ml Sugar syrup CrĂ¨me de Mure Shake all ingredients in shaker with ice / Double strain into a chilled rocks glass / Drizzle CrĂ¨me de Mure / Garnish with lemon

Feeling Fyne 25ml Loch Fyne Blend 25ml Loch Fyne Honey & Ginger Liqueur Boiling water Cloves in orange slices Honey a Make like a Hot Toddy / Add ingredients to glass and fill with boiling water / Add honey to desired taste

The Bee Sting 35ml Bourbon 35ml The Loch Fyne Honey & Ginger Liqueur 25ml Lemon juice

a Shake all ingredients in shaker with ice / Double strain over ice / Garnish with cinnamon stick, orange zest and grated ginger.

SMALL BATCH BOURBON AWARD WINNING FLAVOR

BE ST IN SHOW

9 4 P OI N TS

97 POI N TS

WHISKIES OF THE WORLD 2015

U LT I M A T E S P I R I T S C H A L L E N G E 2015

| expert tasting

Our resident ‘taster in chief’ Charles MacLean runs the rule over The Balvenie DCS Compendium Chapter Two —

Illustration: Francesca Waddell

J ‘dcs’ stands for David Charles Stewart, The Balvenie’s Malt Master, whose 54 years with William Grant & Sons was recognised by H.M. The Queen by the award of an MBE in 2015. The five single casks which comprise the annual release of The Balvenie DCS Compendium series have been chosen by David to highlight fundamental aspects of his life experience as a Master Blender. Thus, Chapter One showcased ‘Distillery Style’, Chapter Two explores ‘The Influence of Oak’ and future releases over the next three years will celebrate other aspects of David’s long career. The whiskies he has selected for Chapter Two range in age from 15 years to 43 years and were drawn from different cask types: two European oak Oloroso sherry butts, a first fill American oak bourbon barrel, a European oak port puncheon, and a European oak Pedro Ximénez sherry butt – with each cask imparting its own distinct flavour profile. At the launch of the series, David said: “As a Malt Master, I’m very lucky to have been trusted to experiment with different cask finishes and even to try out my own techniques to see how they affect the distinctive honeyed characteristics of The Balvenie. Understanding how the oak and the previous spirit or fortified wine held

by the cask influences the whisky is a very important part of my job. “Chapter Two highlights the complexity of flavours each expression takes from wood. I love the results from the older Oloroso sherry butt, which has produced a whisky with a fantastic floral and fruity nose, followed by a wonderful honeyed sweetness. The whisky taken from the 2001 Pedro Ximénez sherry butt is unusual: it shows The Balvenie as a near liqueur with toffee sweetness and a touch of spicy ginger.” My own tasting notes follow. A glance at the ages and wood-types invites comparing one expression with another. The notes demonstrate how The Balvenie DNA runs through them all.

Expert Tasting

The Balvenie DCS Compendium Chapter Two See individual tasting notes

The Balvenie DCS Compendium Chapter Two 1990 aged 26 Years 5x 70CL

£20 000

Aged in a first fill American oak bourbon barrel Age: 26 Year Old

The Balvenie DCS Compendium Chapter Two 1997 aged 19 Years 70CL

Vol: 52.4%

Aged in a European oak port pipe Age: 19 Year Old

70CL

Vol: 61.8%

5 bottles of first fill single cask whisky from Balvenie, named after David Charles Stewart MBE, The Balvenie’s Malt Master.

Fresh and more citric, with dry orange peel, vanilla, coconut and honey. A creamy texture and a sweet taste, with vanilla, cooking spice and fresh oak. Scented face cream in the development.

Crimson lights, but no trace of wine on the nose. Xmas cake and glace cherries, crystalline brown sugar, crème brûlée, beeswax. Sweet wine in the taste, finishing dry and spicy.

The Balvenie DCS Compendium Chapter Two 1972 aged 43 Years

The Balvenie DCS Compendium Chapter Two 1990 aged 25 Years

The Balvenie DCS Compendium Chapter Two 2001 aged 15 Years

Aged in a European oak Oloroso sherry butt Age: 43 Year Old

70CL

Vol: 52.4%

Marzipan, almonds, pineapple, pine sap. Sweet to taste, with honeycomb and butterscotch; ginger in the aftertaste and lingering beeswax. Scented handsoap in the development.

Aged in a European oak Oloroso sherry butt Age: 25 Year Old

70CL

Vol: 52.4%

Dried fruits, Xmas cake (with a trace of waxed wrapper), autumnal, polished leather. A rich taste with dried fruits (including cherries), nuts and dry marzipan. A tannic finish, with dark chocolate in the aftertaste.

Aged in a European oak Pedro Ximénez sherry butt Age: 15 Year Old

70CL

Vol: 52.4%

Strawberry jam, peaches and clotted cream, lightly spicy. With water becomes more bosky and nose-drying. The taste is very sweet and reminiscent of dark cherry liqueur chocolates, a trace of ginger, warming.

| st patrick's day

Few know how to celebrate quite like the Irish. And, when it comes to honouring Patron Saints, they really do raise the bar…

—

Illustration: Kate Timney

These days nobody questions the prominence of alcohol at the centre of the March 17th festivities. Public houses are full to the brim. Sales of Guinness more than double from 5.5 million to 13 million pints sold over the course of just one day. Our stout-goggles make dressing in novelty hats seem like a wise decision. Yet few of us question why this is the case… ‘Saint’ Patrick himself lived in the 5th century, and isn’t technically a saint at all, having never been officially canonised by the Catholic Church. Born to a wealthy RomanoBritish family, his father was a deacon and his grandfather a priest, but it wasn’t until Patrick was kidnapped by Irish raiders at the age of 16 that he truly ‘found God’ himself. According to the Declaration, which he is said to have penned himself, Patrick received word from God on how to evade his captors and flee the Emerald Isle after six long years’ captivity. Emboldened by his faith and inspired by his own personal experience, Patrick then resolved to return as a missionary, with a view to converting the pagan Irish to Christianity. In the Declaration, Patrick goes on to tell how he devoted his time and efforts to evangelising in the north of Ireland, converting unspecified ‘thousands’ to the Christian faith. Viewed as untrustworthy and sinful, the pagan Irish were equated with snakes, giving rise to the popular myth (and misunderstanding) that St. Patrick banished all the snakes from Ireland.

A pioneer in more ways than one, he became known for his nifty use of visual aids: most importantly, his illustration of the holy trinity using a three-leaf clover, otherwise known as a shamrock. Fast forward a few centuries and the descendants of St. Patrick’s Irish Catholic converts had integrated the leaf firmly into ‘the Feast of St. Patrick’ – held on the 17th March to commemorate his death – whence they would ceremoniously ‘drown the shamrock’ in beer, cider, whiskey, potcheen or whatever came to hand, before drinking it down in one, or tossing it over their shoulder for luck in a toast to Paddy, the Irish, and all people present. With the creation of a vast and widespread Irish diaspora following the potato famine in the early 19th century, St. Patrick’s Day became a worldwide phenomenon. Thanks to a church sanctioned pardon from the Lenten Fast, during which St. Patrick’s day typically falls, Irish Catholics had long been seizing the opportunity to indulge liberally in alcohol. With the added necessity to establish their presence in new, foreign communities, it also inevitably extended to become a general celebration of Irishness. Unfortunately, this uninhibited approach to saintly worship caught the attention of the temperance movement. From the 1840s, anti-drink parades became a prominent feature of St. Patrick’s Day. In fact, Dublin’s first ‘contemporary’ St. Patrick’s Day parade was hosted by the Irish Temperance Society in 1947, marking the end of their leader Father

Theobold Matthew’s famous 1830s and 1840s temperance crusade on home soil, and his subsequent departure for America. In an effort to make the already maligned Irish population behave more soberly, the British government also gave their support to the temperance activists, further exacerbating mounting political tensions between the two nations. The pious people of the Gaelic League had adopted temperance in the hope that, by endorsing sobriety, they would create a new ‘respectable’ stereotype for Irish citizens. And indeed to some degree they were successful when, in 1924, the newly independent Irish Free State decreed that no public house may open on the saint’s day. Soon, St. Patrick’s Day became synonymous with abstinence and piety, with one newspaper from 1953 describing it as “much like any other day, only duller”. Thankfully, as the political climate softened in the latter half of the 20th century, so did the focus on temperance and negative perception of the Irish. This made plenty of space for postwar capitalism to exploit the holiday, and the gradual commercialisation of St. Patrick’s Day by the beverage industry saw a resurgence in the associated drinking culture, which is a great excuse for us, and you, to raise a delicious dram of Irish whiskey to Paddy himself! Sláinte.

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