Whiskeria Spring 2020

Cider House Rules Spring 2020

Frightened Rabbit Grant Hutchison’s new journey into cider + Glasgow Tour Guide + Highland Park Mixing It Up + Fettercairn Distillery Visit + Get It Before It’s Gone 2020 New Releases

The Magazine of

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Time and tide wait for no man Jura Brand Home Manager Mark Bruce reflects on swapping the big smoke for island life.

Hailing from Australia and living in London before re-locating to the island of Jura, you’ve certainly come a long way! When did you relocate to the UK from Australia and why?

I left Australia in 2009, when I was 20. The plan was to backpack around Europe for 6 months but – at risk of sounding like a cliché – I fell for the culture, and once the time came to fly home, I didn’t want to leave. I found work in a restaurant in Newcastle Upon Tyne, which gave me my first taste of the wine and whisky industry. This led to me studying a degree in Wine Business at Plumpton College, near Brighton, and the rest was history. I’d met my partner Estelle by then and didn’t plan on going back to Australia anytime soon.

beach most days, and Estelle has even started wild swimming every Sunday. And then there’s the commute. In London, I was averaging an hour and a half each way, on a tube packed with people.

On Jura, I can walk to work in 43 seconds and under 30 if it’s raining!

Tell us about your typical day as a Brand Home Manager.

Most days here start with a cup of tea and a team catch-up, during which we’ll prepare for the tours and tastings we have booked that day. Then we get the visitor centre open and start welcoming guests for their distillery tours. It’s very much a team effort here at Jura distillery, so everyone rolls up their sleeves and mucks in. When we have guests on immersion experiences, the team also gets How did the opportunity to move to Jura and involved with activities like island tours, sea safaris become the distillery’s Brand Home Manager and bike rides – often finished with a dram or two come about? in our Cooperage Bar. So, really, there’s no such I was lucky enough to be invited on one of Whyte thing as a typical day on Jura! & Mackay’s brand immersion visits to Jura in April 2019. At the time, I was working in the London Jura Whisky describes life on the island as sales team as a Premium Business Manager. When challenging, but also endlessly rewarding. So I returned from that four-day trip, I couldn’t stop far, what has been your biggest challenge and thinking about it. I’d been bitten by the Jura bug. biggest reward?

A few months later, Whyte & Mackay advertised The most challenging aspect of life on Jura is the vacancy for a new Brand Home Manager, and the logistics. When you live on an island, it’s not I knew I had to apply. Thankfully, my industry always as easy as popping down to the shops for experience and enthusiasm for all things Jura a pint of milk. Especially when the weather’s bad landed me my dream job. and the ferry over to Islay – where all the food is – doesn’t run.

How are you settling into island life and how But by far the biggest reward is the people. does life on Jura compare to life in London? The community is full of different backgrounds, Island life is not without its challenges, but we skillsets and stories, making it almost impossible feel at home here. We’ve settled in quickly and the not to learn something new about someone every community has welcomed us warmly. It’s a much day. Everyone here has gone out of their way to more outdoorsy lifestyle than in London. I run help us settle in and we look forward to discovering regularly, we walk our greyhound on the all that Jura has to offer.

How long has the distillery been operating on the island?

Jura distillery was established in 1810, closed in 1901 and then reopened in 1963. It’s as important today as it was in 1810. It’s at the heart of the island in Craighouse – we employ 18 islanders during the summer season, 16 during the winter season and welcome thousands of visitors every year.

Are tours available at Jura distillery?

Yes. Our team has developed a new range of tours and tastings for 2020. There’s something to suit all tastes and budgets. Tours start at £7, including two drams.

What makes Jura Whisky unique?

We’re known in the industry for our tall stills and light spirit. But, for me, Jura whisky is a reflection of the island where it’s made and the people who make it. Sometimes against the odds – when the weather and electricity isn’t on our side!

What’s your favourite whisky from the Jura portfolio and why?

Jura 212. This whisky is a celebration of the 212(ish) people who live in the Jura community.

It’s everything I like in a whisky. Distilled in 2006, matured for 13 years in ex-bourbon barrels, then enhanced in Chinkapin oak casks from the Ozarks. Think vanilla, coffee and almond wrapped up in fruit cake – it’s outrageous stuff.

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Whiskeria

Spring 2020

As I see it…

Welcome to Spring At the turn of the new decade, Ian Bankier, The Whisky Shop Chairman, looks forward to a year of new beginnings and continued growth.

— Illustration: Francesca Waddell

❛ We have increased our offering of themed tastings and our in-store tastings are selling out quickly.

It gives me real pleasure to welcome all of our readers to this spring edition of Whiskeria.

Our magazine has been going since 2005 and, from a slim and modest start, has grown into a fully-fledged quarterly publication that our readers look forward to and enjoy. This year we have a new Executive Producer, Rhona McKeran, who has slipped into the driver’s seat to put this edition to print. Going forward, we have asked Rhona to stamp her own personality on the magazine. She intends to start with a readers’ survey to explore what you enjoy most, what you would like to see more of and what you would like to see less of. Do look out for the survey and, if you can, please participate.

Your views will be very welcome.

In this edition, we cover the activities where there is the most energy across our estate.

The W Club tops this list with its membership growing strongly. Our members especially appreciate the rise of exclusive single cask bottlings – we have four planned already this year. Similarly, the inclusion of members in the cask selection process, via the Cask Committee, has been a welcome introduction.

On the tastings front, we have increased our offering of themed tastings and our in-store tastings are selling out quickly. In addition to this, we have embarked on livestream tastings – where, through a ballot process, members can win whisky miniatures and taste along with the brand ambassador live on Facebook.

We're running so many now that every member could win at least once during their year of membership.

Another hot spot has been our new online auctions service. In a busy marketplace, we set out to provide a facility that is tailored to our customers. Uniquely, we offer pick up and drop off at our stores – removing the risk and uncertainty of self-packing. We have also designed a user-friendly auctions website, complete with 360-degree photography and a virtual wallet facility to handle the proceeds of sale. The site is off to a positive start: volumes continue to rise, and hammer prices are good.

As I see it, the whole arena of collecting rare and investable whiskies shows little sign of diminishing. In this edition, we interview David Robertson of Rare Whisky 101 – the leading experts in this field. He predicts that the auction market will continue to expand, as international demand for rare and valuable whiskies shows no sign of slowing.

So, there we are: the start of a new decade and much to be cheerful about!

Slàinte Ian P Bankier, Executive Chairman,

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Competition

Win! A signed bottle of Fettercairn 16 Year Old. We’re giving away not just one… not even two… but six bottles of Fettercairn 16 Year Old single malt whisky, each signed by the distillery’s manager, Stewart Walker.

The first edition of Fettercairn 16 Year Old to be released, this expression has been distilled with chocolate malted barley and matured in first-fill American ex-bourbon casks, before being enhanced in select sherry and port casks. Launching at The Whisky Shop later this year, you could be one of the first to get your hands on this limited edition!

For your chance to win, simply visit: whiskyshop.com/whiskeria-competition Competition closes 18th May 2020.

T&Cs apply. The winner will be contacted directly.

Terms & Conditions The winners will be selected from all entries via the link stated above by midnight on 18th May 2020. The judge’s decision will be final. The competition is not open to employees of The Whisky Shop Ltd. All normal competition rules apply. UK entrants

Distillery Visit Fettercairn

must be 18 years old or over to apply. International entrants must be of legal drinking age in their country of residence.

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–– produced by Ascot Publishing Limited PO Box 7415 Glasgow G51 9BR –– contact enquiries@whiskyshop.com

–– commissioning editor GlenKeir Whiskies Limited –– executive producer Rhona McKeran rhona@whiskyshop.com 0141 427 2919 –– executive chairman Ian P Bankier ipb@whiskyshop.com

–– feature writers Brian Wilson Charles MacLean Gavin D Smith Rhona McKeran Natalie McLaughlin –– product photography Subliminal Creative 01236 734923

The Magazine of

–– creative direction a visual agency emlyn@avisualagency.com –– feature photography Brian Sweeney Christina Kernohan –– photo assistants Fabio Rebelo Paiva Cat Thomson Izzy Leach –– stylists Ian Tod Meredith Wilkie –– illustration Francesca Waddell Hrafnhildur Halldorsdottir

–– Glenkeir Whiskies Limited trades as THE WHISKY SHOP. Opinions expressed in WHISKERIA are not necessarily those of Glenkeir Whiskies Limited. Statements made and opinions expressed are done so in good faith, but shall not be relied upon by the reader.

This publication is the copyright of the publisher, ASCOT PUBLISHING LIMITED, and no part of it may be reproduced without their prior consent in writing. No responsibility is taken for the advertising material contained herein. © ASCOT PUBLISHING LIMITED.

––

Prices effective 1 February 2020.

All prices in this edition of Whiskeria are subject to change.

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Contributors Charles MacLean —

Charles has published fourteen Scotch whisky books to date, including the standard work on whisky brands, Scotch Whisky, and the leading book on its subject, Malt Whisky, both of which were short-listed for Glenfiddich Food & Drink Awards. He was also script advisor for Ken Loach’s 2012 film The Angels’ Share and subsequently played the part of the whisky expert in the film (which he claims to be his biggest career highlight to date).

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Brian Wilson —

Formerly an MP, Brian held several Government Ministerial posts during his political career.

He lives on the Isle of Lewis, from where he pursues various business interests, notably in the energy sector. He also led the regeneration of the Harris Tweed industry and is currently Chairman of Harris Tweed Hebrides Ltd. His first love was writing, and he continues to write books, as well as opinion pieces for national newspapers.

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Gavin D Smith —

Gavin is one of the world’s most prolific and respected whisky writers. He’s regularly published in a range of top magazines and has written more than a dozen books on whisky, while co-authoring many more. He is also responsible for editing and releasing the latest version of Michael Jackson’s seminal whisky publication, The Malt Whisky Companion.

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Contents

Spring 2020 9 28 30 32 34 39 48 52 56 64 73 96 98

New Releases | Spring 2020 Industry Top-Up | Whisky News Digest The W Club | Rye Not? The W Club | Daft about the Cask A Time in History | A Spanish-Scotch Love Affair Tour Guide | Glasgow My Craft | Rare Whisky 101 Distillery Visit | Fettercairn Mixing It Up | Highland Park My Whiskeria | Grant Hutchison The Whisky Shop Section Expert Tasting | Bunnahabhain & Benromach Uncle Ether

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Reviewed by Charles MacLean 001 002 003 004 005 006 007 008 009 010 011 012 013 014 015 016 017 018

Glen Scotia 2009 Single Cask Inchmurrin 2004 Single Cask Jack DanielĘźs Single Barrel Select Cask WhistlePig Single Barrel Rye 10 Year Old Kavalan Selection Virgin Oak Single Cask Kavalan Selection Port Cask Single Cask The GlenDronach 1992 Single Cask Bunnahabhain1988 Marsala Cask Finish Octomore 10.4 Dialogos Virgin Oak Game Of Thrones Six Kingdoms Mortlach 15 Year Old Johnnie Walker Blue Label Year of the Rat Johnnie Walker Blue Label Rare Side of Scotland The Old Malt Cask Ben Nevis 23 Year Old Sherry Cask The Old Malt Cask Longmorn 21 Year Old The First Editions Blair Athol 10 Year Old The Loch Fyne The Living Cask Batch 9 Glenkeir Treasures Twin Casks Secret Highland 11 Year Old Glenkeir Treasures Twin Casks Secret Speyside 9 Year Old

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Glen Scotia 2009 Single Cask #784 The Whisky Shop Exclusive

Campbeltown Single Malt Age: 10 Year Old Vol: 57.8%

70CL £65

Bright gold in colour, with moderate beading, the nose presents bruised pears, with a suggestion of scrumpy cider and burnt buttered toast, on a maritime base. The taste is sweet and salty; it benefits from dilution, when a pepper note appears in the finish.

Glen Scotia Distillery has had a chequered history.

It was founded in 1832, named simply ‘Scotia’, and was operated by its founding company until 1895, when it was bought by Duncan MacCallum, owner of Glen Nevis Distillery. In 1919, both joined a consortium of five distilleries to form West Highland Malt Distilleries Ltd. in an attempt to share costs, but by 1924 this failed and MacCallum resumed ownership of Glen Scotia.

He struggled on until 1930, when he drowned himself in Crosshill Loch. This came as a profound shock to the people of Campbeltown: MacCallum was 83 years old and “an outstanding personality in the industrial and commercial life of the town,” according to his obituary. It is said that his ghost haunts Glen Scotia.

The distillery passed through several hands and endured several periods of closure. Between 1930 and 1954 it was owned by Bloch Brothers and its name was changed to ‘Glen Scotia’.

In 1994, it was bought by Glen Catrine Bonded Warehouse Ltd., owner of Littemill and Loch Lomond Distilleries, who mothballed it until 1999 when it opened part-time, operated by staff from Springbank Distillery.

In 2014, when Loch Lomond Distillers Ltd. was bought by its current owners – an experienced group of senior managers with the support of a private equity company – the fortunes of Glen Scotia changed dramatically for the better.

The distillery has been splendidly restored and renovated, upgraded and expanded, with a small but charming visitor centre in one of the oldest parts of the site. Under the management of a hugely knowledgeable local man, Iain McAllister, it is in full operation, capable of producing 600,000 litres of spirit per annum.

This vibrant Glen Scotia 10 Year Old has been bottled at natural strength and natural colour from a single cask exclusively for The Whisky Shop.

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A suggestion of scrumpy cider and burnt buttered toast.

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Inchmurrin 2004 Single Cask#17/641-2

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The W Club Exclusive Highland Single Malt Age: 15 Year Old

Vol: 54.6%

70CL £85

Deep gold with bronze lights; good beading. A soft nose-feel, and a gentle top note of Eve’s Pudding (apple sponge) with vanilla custard, becoming fruitier at reduced strength. A smooth texture and a sweet taste, with fruity boiled sweets in mid-palate and a pleasantly sour finish.

Inchmurrin is a small island in Loch Lomond and Inchmurrin single malt is made at Loch Lomond Distillery in nearby Alexandria. The distillery was commissioned in 1966 within a former dye works, The United Turkey Red Company, which closed in 1961, with the 26 acre site being sold three years later to the owner of Littlemill Distillery, the American-born Duncan Thomas.

Thomas had installed a pair of Lomond stills at Littlemill – fitted with rectifying columns in place of swan necks, to produce a lighter style of spirit – and did the same at Loch Lomond (the name of the stills is coincidental, by the way). Today the distillery has four such stills, as well as six traditional pot stills, a Coffey still and a modified Coffey still, which produces grain spirit from malted barley. This sounds like a contradiction in terms, but the Whisky Regulations 2009 insist that to be termed ‘malt spirit’, it must come from a pot still.

This astonishing range of stills – unique in the Scotch whisky industry – enables Loch Lomond to produce eight different styles of malt and grain spirits, as well as blended Scotch whisky, on the same site.

Inchmurrin is produced on the Lomond stills, which allow different flavour notes to be emphasised according to how the stills are run, where the spirit is drawn off and at what strength (up to 90% VOL).

Inchmurrin spirit is light and intensely fruity, becoming more floral and grassy during maturation.

This 15 Year Old expression is unpeated and was matured in a new French oak barrel. It is a W Club exclusive – chosen by Dave and Jude Crook, who won the ballot to be part of The W Club’s ‘Cask Committee’ for the selection of this cask. This expression is limited to just 393 bottles.

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Apple sponge with vanilla custard.

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Jack Danielʼs Single Barrel Select Cask #19-07778 The Whisky Shop Exclusive Tennessee Whiskey Age: –

70CL £65

Vol: 45%

The colour of golden syrup. Unusually, the top notes are fragrant, fruity (Ogen melon, cherries in syrup), even floral (faded rose), on a base of toasted oak. The taste follows the nose precisely: sweet and scented; oaky in the shortish finish, with an aftertaste of pencil box.

Jack Daniel’s website describes the distillery’s Single Barrel Select range as “our signature single barrel offering.” This particular barrel was selected by Jack Daniel’s Master Distiller, Jeff Arnett, from the upper floors of the distillery’s huge ‘barrel-houses’ in Lynchburg, Tennessee, where the temperature soars during the summer months and drops below freezing in the winter, causing a dramatic interaction between the maturing spirit and the oak casks. This barrel was bottled on 28th October 2019 and has yielded a mere 228 bottles.

The casks themselves are special. Jeff Arnett says: “We make our own barrels. We have our own wood buyer, our own drying process, our own roasting process. It all creates complex characters to give that toasty up-front sweetness which tells you it’s Jack.”

Jack Daniel’s proudly proclaims itself to be Tennessee whiskey, not bourbon. In fact, the legal definition of both is the same, with one significant difference: Jack Daniel’s spirit undergoes filtration through a ten-foot bed of maple charcoal prior to being barrelled. Known as the Lincoln County Process after the location of the distillery, this expensive mellowing technique was being used here by at least 1825. Tennessee whiskey was recognised as a distinctive style in 1941.

Not only was Jack Daniel’s the first registered distillery in the United States – in 1866, when the federal government introduced a whiskey tax – but it is the best-selling whiskey in the world.

Single Barrel Select is a richer variation of the legendary Jack Daniel’s No.7, with less sweetness and more power. I am told it is especially popular with bartenders – and of course, rock stars, with whom the brand has long been associated in the popular mind.

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Oaky, with an aftertaste of pencil box.

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WhistlePig Single Barrel Rye 10 Year Old Cask #72177

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The Whisky Shop Exclusive American Rye Whiskey Age: 10 Year Old

Vol: 55.7%

75CL £125

Deep gold, golden syrup; moderate beading; some nose prickle – opens slightly with a splash of water to offer vanilla ice cream on oak wood.A smooth texture, the taste, straight, is sweet with a spicy rye finish and a curious mossy aftertaste. At reduced strength the spice (nutmeg, allspice) is more evident.

WhistlePig Distillery was founded by Raj Peter Bhakta when he bought a remote farm in Vermont, Colorado, following his failure to be elected to the US congress in 2007.

He had long been interested in whiskey and soon realised that the farm would be a near perfect location for a distillery. The land was ideal for growing rye; the water source was copious and pure, and, as he told the Robb Report in 2017: “serendipitously, barrels from Vermont’s oak trees provide the best flavour that we’ve found anywhere in the world when used to age whiskey. The growing region provides a more strenuous environment than in the South and, through that struggle, the wood develops characteristics that comprise our whiskey’s single greatest flavouring compound.”

But why ‘WhistlePig’? He continues: “I was once hiking deep in the Rockies when the most unusual human interaction I’ve ever experienced occurred. A crazy-looking older man popped out of nowhere and asked me, in a very thick accent, “Could it be a whistlepig?” He got close and started snapping his fingers in my face impersonating, what I imagined to be, a whistlepig—then took off as fast as he arrived. After doing the statistical analysis for the probability of such an encounter, I decided it was as close to zero as possible and took it as a message from above.

I like to say that WhistlePig is divinely inspired.”

Raj Bhakta appointed whiskey legend, the late Dave Pickerell, as his consultant. Described as "the founding father of the craft distilling movement in the USA,” he was also an innovator, and his influence in this regard imbues WhistlePig’s approach to distilling.

“We are constantly pushing ourselves to try new things and to unlock the potential of rye whiskey. We protect what makes rye whiskey great, toss out the rest, and then innovate to make it better.”

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Vanilla ice cream on oak wood.

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Whiskeria

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New Releases

Kavalan Selection Virgin Oak Single Cask#N060828A63 The Whisky Shop Exclusive

Taiwanese Single Malt Age: —

Vol: 59.4%

70CL £195

Deep amber, Oloroso sherry; good beading. A mellow nose, with some prickle. A scented top note of fondant and cherry liqueur chocolates, on a base of fresh oak shavings. A mouth-filling texture and a sweet, oaky, tannic taste, with a long, warming finish. Water increases the oak notes.

Shortly before Christmas 2008, Tom BruceGardyne (the distinguished drinks writer) and I were invited to lunch by Leonard Russell (Managing Director of Ian Macleod Distillers).

At the end of the meal, Lenny produced an unlabelled 10cl bottle of whisky and asked the waiter for appropriate glasses. Pouring measures for each of us, he said: “You guys know a bit about whisky. See if you can identify this one…”

The colour was dark amber; the aroma rich and dry, the taste mellow and complex. We guessed it was around 12 years old, but we didn’t think it was Scotch, and it was clearly not American, Irish or Canadian.

We volunteered ‘Japanese’. “Well, you’re in the right continent”, said Lenny. “It’s Taiwanese, from a distillery named Kavalan. And it’s less than three years old.”

Not only had we never heard of Kavalan, we were astonished by its quality and maturity. I later read that the distillery commenced production in March 2006.

In 2009, St. George’s Distillery in Norfolk released its first single malt, at three years old.

The Times newspaper asked me to assess its quality.

I said I would be happy to do so with two conditions: the whiskies it was assessed against must be around the same age, and the tasting must be strictly blind.

Lenny had given me the remains of the Kavalan, which I took with me to the tasting.

The panel I had assembled looked at six whiskies.

I asked them to describe each one for the benefit of The Times reporter, and to score each out of ten.

The results were: a Scotch malt with 2 marks, another Scotch malt with 3 marks, St. George’s with 4 marks, two young Scotch blends with 5 marks each and Kavalan with 7 marks.

The Times gave the story half a page and it went viral – including the front page of Le Figaro in France, under the headline: “Taiwanese whisky beats Scotch in blind tasting.” Since then it has won numerous prizes – indeed, I reckon Kavalan is the most awarded whisky in the world.

If you taste either of these bottlings, exclusive to The Whisky Shop, you will see why.

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Kavalan Selection Port Cask Single Cask#011118055A The Whisky Shop Exclusive Taiwanese Single Malt Age: —

Vol: 58.6%

70CL £195

Very deep amber, with ruby lights; excellent beading. A mild nose, with very light prickle. A complex, mellow aroma; traces of dark chocolate, glacé cherries, macadamia nuts and polished rosewood. A very smooth texture and a rich, sweet taste (but not cloying), slightly vinous and drying in the aftertaste.

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Fondant and cherry liqueur chocolates, on a base of fresh oak shavings.

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Dark chocolate, glacĂŠ cherries, macadamia nuts and polished rosewood.

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New Releases

The GlenDronach 1992 Single Cask#5852 The Whisky Shop Exclusive

Highland Single Malt Age: 27 Year Old

Vol: 58.4%

70CL £300

Deep amber with magenta lights. A rich aroma, nose-drying overall and surprisingly mild for its strength. A bouquet of moist Christmas cake (with toasted almonds and wax wrapper) and damson jam, on a sandalwood base. The texture is mouth-filling, the taste sweet (cherry liqueur chocolates), with a long, slightly dry finish. Best enjoyed straight.

In the Autumn issue of Whiskeria last year we featured another GlenDronach 1992, which I rated very highly. This single cask bottling at a slightly higher strength is every bit as good.

It was matured for its entire life in a single Spanish oak Oloroso sherry cask – many now consider The GlenDronach to be the benchmark ‘sherry-matured’ malt. The policy of filling into sherry casks was started by the distillery’s former owner, Billy Walker, who also inherited a substantial stock of long-aged sherried whisky with which to build the brand.

He bought GlenDronach in 2008 and sold the distillery to the Brown Forman Corporation of America (owner of Jack Daniel’s) in April 2016. The custodian of The GlenDronach’s quality and consistency today is the company’s Master Blender, Dr. Rachel Barrie, who personally selects a handful of casks for individual bottling each year: this cask from 1992, which has been specially bottled for The Whisky Shop, is a butt seasoned with Oloroso sherry.

The distillery was founded in 1826 by a group of farmers led by James Allardice. The story goes that, soon after he commenced production, he travelled to Edinburgh with a small cask of his whisky with a view of taking cask orders from the city’s taverns and spirits merchants. Alas, nobody was interested. Returning to his lodging in the Canongate one evening, he fell in with a couple of ‘ladies of the night’ and, over a few drams of ‘guid GlenDronach’, explained his predicament.

Impressed by the whisky and by his generosity, the ladies spread the word to their colleagues who were not slow to join the merry tasting. Next day all the taverns on the High Street were ringing with demands for GlenDronach from this motley crew… and, as Allardice recorded in his memoirs, “orders were swiftly forthcoming.”

Dr. Barrie describes the typical flavour profile of her malt as: “rich, with maraschino cherries, dark chocolate, layers of damson plum, Morello cherries in dark chocolate, black walnut and truffle on a bed of antique leather and old-fashioned treacle gingerbread.”

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A bouquet of moist Christmas cake and damson jam.

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Bunnahabhain 1988 Marsala Cask Finish Islay Single Malt Age: 30 Year Old

Vol: 47.4%

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70CL £450

Pale amber, with a roseate tint. The first impression on the nose is faintly musty (old wine in an empty decanter); beneath this is a suggestion of strawberry jam roly-poly (properly made, with suet). The last increases with a drop of water. The taste is sweet and salty, with a sour and lightly-peated finish. Water modifies the sour note.

This limited edition single malt from Bunnahabhain is the second of Distell’s annual limited edition releases, accompanied by two 11 Year Old whiskies, one finished in port pipes, another in French brandy casks.

It was distilled on 1st December 1988. After almost three decades in ex-bourbon casks, the whisky was transferred to four Marsala hogsheads on 7th July 2016 and matured for a further two years. It has been bottled at natural strength, without chill filtration or artificial colouring, and only 1,260 bottles have been filled.

Commenting on the new expressions in June 2019, Derek Scott, Brand Director for Malt Whisky at Distell, writes: “The team surprise us every year with the creation of new and exciting expressions, with each distillery having a distinct flavour profile and the team continuing to achieve incredible results with their choice of finishing casks.

“One of my particular favourites this year has to be the Bunnahabhain Vintage Marsala Finish. It has sweet hints of chocolate and caramel that develop into a lingering smoky pepperiness, which is extremely memorable, especially if you can enjoy it on Islay, overlooking Bunnahabhain Bay.” Marsala is a fortified wine produced in the region surrounding the Sicilian town of the same name. It received its first Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) in 1969, although it became popular in England in the late 18th century. Indeed, the man who ‘discovered’ and popularised it, an English trader named John Woodhouse, returned to Sicily in 1796 and began mass production.

Marsala wines are classified according to colour, sweetness and age: Oro is golden, Ambra is amber, Rubino is ruby; Fine is aged at least one year, Superiore is aged at least two years, Superiore Riserva is aged at least four years, Soleras is aged at least five years and Soleras Riserva is aged at least ten years. They may be dry or sweet to taste – typically the latter, which are served as dessert wines.

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A suggestion of strawberry jam roly-poly.

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Octomore 10.4 Dialogos Virgin Oak

Islay Single Malt Age: 3 Year Old

Vol: 63.5%

70CL £160

Deep amber in hue, with light beading. Some nose prickle. The aroma is both meaty and smoky: charred pork ribs on a barbecue – there’s even a suggestion of smoky BBQ sauce. A little water introduces malted fruit loaf.

An oily, mouth-filling texture – slightly salty with a big taste of sack cloth and smoke. A massive malt!

“It started as a late night ‘what if’ idea after a few drams. What if we distilled the most heavilypeated barley humanly possible in the tall, narrow-necked Bruichladdich stills?”

Proudly independent, often cheeky and provocative, the guys at Bruichladdich are never short of headlinegrabbing ideas. Octomore “challenges comfortable convention” as “the world’s most heavily peated single malt”, to quote the distillery’s website. It is released annually in relatively small batches.

The name comes from a farm and former distillery (1816-1852) which stands on a hillside overlooking Port Charlotte and grows barley for Bruichladdich. The barley is converted into malt at Port Ellen Maltings where it is peated to a staggering 88 parts per million phenols (the chemical compounds which lend smoky and medicinal flavours to whisky). To put this in context, bear in mind that ‘heavily peated’ malts like Lagavulin and Caol Ila are peated to around 30–35 ppm phenols.

Phenols tend to dissipate over time, so Octomore is bottled young for full impact – Batch 10.4 is the youngest ever – and also to challenge the notion that quality and flavour is a function of long ageing. In days gone by, most whisky was drunk young or even un-aged, and since the malt used by Highland distilleries was dried over peat fires, their whiskies will generally have been smokier than today’s malts.

Batch 10.4 has been wholly matured on Islay in 28 virgin Limousin French oak casks for only three years, but it is remarkably mature for its youth and powerfully delivers what it promises: depth and balance, challenging the convention that old age is always better.

As well as being innovative, Octomore pays tribute to the distillery whose name it bears, and to the men of Islay who made whisky there.

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Meaty and smoky: charred pork ribs on a barbecue.

Spring 2020

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Game Of Thrones Six Kingdoms Mortlach 15 Year Old Speyside Single Malt Age: 15 Year Old

Vol: 46%

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70CL £120

A rich aroma of dried fruits marinaded in Spanish brandy, crystallised orange peel and dry marzipan, with a faint whiff of smoke or charred wood as a base note. Little change at reduced strength. A smooth, mouth-filling texture and a sweet taste over all, with a tart middle (grapefruit zest?), and a long warming finish. A suggestion of smoke in the aftertaste. Well worthy of the Six Kingdoms!

In October 2018 Diageo teamed up with the makers of “the most captivating TV show of all time,” Game of Thrones, to release a range of single malts named after the warring noble families in the fictional Seven Kingdoms of Westeros.

In fact the series began with White Walker, a blended Scotch, which I reviewed in Whiskeria in the Spring 2019 issue.

Six Kingdoms is the ninth and final release, inspired by the show’s finale, when the Seven Kingdoms became six after the north became independent.

The whisky is presented in a metallic gold canister illustrated with a drawing of the ‘Three-Eyed Raven’, the soubriquet of Bran Stark, who was elected king of the Six Kingdoms in the final episode, and who granted independence to the North under Queen Sansa Stark, his sister.

“We saw an overwhelmingly positive response to the launch of the Game of Thrones Limited Edition Single Malt Scotch Whisky Collection and as Game of Thrones fans continue to explore both the world of whisky and the world of Westeros, we are proud to introduce the final addition to the collection,” said Kavita Agarwal, Diageo’s Global Brand Director of Malts.

“Mortlach is one of our most sought-after superpremium single malts, and seemed fitting as the perfect finale to complete the collection.”

The new whisky has been matured in first-fill sherry-seasoned casks and finished in American oak ex-bourbon casks. Mortlach is famously robust – locally it is known as ‘The Beast of Dufftown’ – and benefits from maturation in ex-sherry casks. This long-awaited addition to the Game of Thrones range is a limited edition.

The individual malts in the series were assigned to the Houses based on the history and geographic location of each distillery, and although flavour was not a key consideration when assigning a single malt to a House, Six Kingdoms seems to me to match King Bran the Broken well.

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Dried fruits marinaded in Spanish brandy, crystallised orange peel and dry marzipan.

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Spring 2020

New Releases

Johnnie Walker Blue Label Year of the Rat Blended Scotch Age: —

Vol: 40%

70CL £210

A mellow nose, but with some peppery spice. The top note is floral (expensive hand soap?), on an earthy, mossy, even smoky base. After a while, a trace of soft leather. Water rounds off and softens the nose: vanilla fudge with raisins and wood ash. A very smooth texture; a very sweet taste (butterscotch and fruity boiled sweets), then mouth-drying, with white pepper lasting into the long, spicy, very slightly smoky finish.

2020 is the Year of the Rat in the Chinese Zodiac, and this limited bottling of Johnnie Walker’s iconic Blue Label expression has been released to mark it.

In China, each year is related to an animal sign, in a 12-year cycle: ‘Rat’ is the first in the cycle so was celebrated in 2008, 1996, 1984, 1972 and so on.

Traditional astrology maintains that a person’s character is decided by the sign of their birth year.

Rats are quickly able to adapt to whatever environment they find themselves in and can survive in almost any situation.

People born in the Year of the Rat are: “industrious and thrifty, keen on making money (but easily cheated, keen on spending and having little idea about moneymanagement). They are diligent and positive; gracious and considerate, flexible, good at making friends. They also have keen intuition and can foretell danger.”

On the downside, they are “a little timid, suspicious and conservative; lack persistence, find it hard to concentrate on one thing and can be short-sighted when dealing with problems, criticising and complaining when problems arise.

They rely on their outstanding instinct too much and can be stubborn and quick to criticise other people’s shortcomings.”

In spite of these drawbacks to their personality, rats can be successful at almost everything they try to do because they are easily adaptable people who learn quickly and have great problem-solving skills.

Johnnie Walker Blue Label is an outstandingly smooth whisky, worthy of being savoured. The Chinese often drink it throughout a meal, as we would drink wine, and I must say it goes very well with a wide range of Cantonese and Szechuan dishes.

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Butterscotch and fruity boiled sweets.

Spring 2020

New Releases

Johnnie Walker Blue Label Rare Side of Scotland Blended Scotch Age: —

Vol: 40%

70CL £210

A balance of freshness (wild raspberries, light fudge) and maturity (dense, fugitive perfume, like old ladies’ handbags; musk, furniture polish). Likewise, the flavour is a good balance of sweetness, acidity and dryness, with a long finish and some beeswax in the aftertaste.

This elegant limited edition of Johnnie Walker Blue Label is the work of the celebrated Glasgow textile design studio, Timorous Beasties. Founded in 1990 by Alistair McAuley and Paul Simmons, who met while studying at the Glasgow School of Art, the firm has won numerous prestigious awards for its idiosyncratic fabric, textile, wallpaper, laminates and carpet designs and now has showrooms in London and Berlin, as well as Glasgow.

At the unveiling of the bottle in October, Alistair McAuley said: “We’ve always been passionate about seeking out the rarest beauty to be found in Scotland and showcasing it to the world, and that’s definitely a passion shared by the Johnnie Walker team. We take great inspiration from the natural beauty of the local landscape, and it was a privilege to mark this with a bespoke design – an invitation to everyone to come and experience the rugged and rare charm of the Scottish wilderness.”

The design is dominated by one of the rarest natural beauties in the world, the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights), shining theatrically over the Scottish Highlands.

Below this backdrop soar three of Scotland’s iconic birds – the white-tailed sea eagle, the curlew and the eider duck.

Illustrated beneath these ‘beasties’ are two of Scotland’s smallest rare wonders: the narrowbordered bee hawk-moth, and Scotland’s smallest butterfly – the Small Blue. Floral depictions of machair, saxifrage and mountain havens complete the evocative scene. Dr. Jim Beveridge, Johnnie Walker’s Master Blender, said: “The celebration of rare, exceptional Scotch whiskies, combined with the high craft of my team of whisky makers will always be at the very heart of Johnnie Walker Blue Label.

We know that devotion to craft is mirrored by Timorous Beasties, and this is highlighted by these beautiful bottle designs.”

One might say that this whisky brings the best of Scotland to the world!

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Wild raspberries, light fudge, dense, fugitive perfume.

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New Releases

The Old Malt Cask Ben Nevis 23 Year Old Sherry Cask

Highland Single Malt Age: 23 Year Old

Vol: 50%

70CL £160

Deep gold with amber lights; good beading. Mild on the nose. The aroma is savoury overall, with a curious vegetal top note (neeps?), backed by waxy smoke (extinguished candle). A smooth, mouth-filling texture – waxy and teeth-coating – and a sweet taste, becoming savoury and finishing faintly smoky.

Ben Nevis has been described as the ugliest malt distillery in Scotland, which is a shame, since it has an interesting and colourful history.

‘Long John’ Macdonald, the founder, was a man who attracted tales. In one, reported by the Dundee Advertiser, he saved his brother from being gored by a bull by seizing its horns, wrestling it to the ground and dislocating its neck. In another, he routed a band of smugglers who ambushed him, resentful of his having ‘gone legal’, armed with nothing but a stout cromach (crook).

He was a big man – six foot four inches, it was said – and perhaps on account of his size and strength was chosen by the Lochaber lairds to establish a legal distillery near Fort William in 1825, when he was twenty-seven years old. He was also a man of heroic dignity, proud to be descended from the Keppoch branch of Clan Donald, and proud that his grandfather had been ‘out’ with the Prince in 1745.

The impression made by Long John was well summed up by an English tourist, Alexander Smith, who met him in 1856, the last year of Macdonald’s life: “When a man goes to Caprera he, as a matter of course, brings a letter of introduction to Garibaldi. When I went to Fort William I, equally as a matter of course, brought a letter of introduction to Long John…I presented my letter and was received with the hospitality and courteous grace so characteristic of the Old Gael.”

The original distillery was small, producing around 200 gallons of spirit a week, but it had a reputation as big as his own – a cask had even been accepted by Buckingham Palace in 1848, to be broached for the Prince of Wales’ twenty-first birthday in 1863. After ‘the Old Gael’s’ death, the business passed to his son, Donald Peter Macdonald, and although not as flamboyant a character as his father, it was Peter who really laid the foundations of the distillery’s success.

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A smooth, mouth-filling texture – waxy and teethcoating.

Spring 2020

New Releases

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The Old Malt Cask Longmorn 21 Year Old Speyside Single Malt Age: 21 Year Old

Vol: 50%

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70CL £150

Faded amber; very good beading for its strength. Considerable nose prickle.

The aroma is deeply fruity, with prunes in syrup as a top note, backed by dried figs, bruised pears and baked apples. A smooth and mouth-filling texture; sweet to start, with a suggestion of milk chocolate in mid-palate and a long, warming finish. A drop of water introduces a savoury note to both aroma and taste; some light aniseed in the aftertaste.

Longmorn is one of only a dozen malts (all Speysides) rated ‘top class’ by blenders, and, as a result, the vast majority of its make goes for blending – particularly for Chivas Regal.

The distillery is situated two and a half miles south of Elgin, on the main road to Rothes. The village was once a railway junction and the beginning of a rail-spur on the Strathspey Line between Elgin and Craigellachie.

Longmorn Station and its platform still exist in good order, although the track has gone.

‘Longmorn’ is an interesting name; not Gaelic, but Brythonic (‘British’ or Welsh) – an indication of how early people mingled in the ancient Pictish Kingdom of Moray. Scholars are divided on the name’s derivation.

Some say it comes from Lhanmorgund, ‘the Place of the Holy Man’; some say it was named for the 7th Century British saint, Eran or Earnain, after whom Killearn in Stirlingshire is also named and to whom Longmorn church is dedicated: it was originally known as Lann M’earnain, apparently, which means ‘the enclosure of beloved [St] Earnain’.

A third school holds that the name comes from another saint, Marnoch (Marnan or Maernog), an Irish missionary who died in 625 and whose feast day is celebrated in many Scottish towns – including, presumably, Kilmarnock, Ayrshire, and the parish of Marnoch and Aberchirder in Aberdeenshire.

Be that as it may, the Longmorn Distillery was built by one John Duff, a publican and former manager of GlenDronach Distillery in 1893, in partnership with other local businessmen. Duff’s family owned the lands of Miltonduff to the west, across the River Spey.

He had previously been involved with the building of Glenlossie Distillery (1876), and went on to build BenRiach Distillery close to Longmorn (1897).

This 21 Year Old expression has been released

by Hunter Laing as part of their reliably excellent Old Malt Cask range.

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Deeply fruity, with prunes in syrup as a top note.

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Spring 2020

New Releases

The First Editions Blair Athol 10 Year Old

Highland Single Malt Age: 10 Year Old

Vol: 46%

70CL £70

9CT gold in hue, the influence of Spanish oak is immediately apparent on the nose – fruit loaf, sultanas, malted bread, allspice – on a faintly mineral base.

A thin texture and a sweet taste overall, with a twist of pepper in the finish.

The water supplying Blair Athol Distillery comes from springs on the slopes of Ben Vrackie, via the Allt Dour, ‘the Burn of the Otter’. It is said that “the mellow barley bree from the cavern of Ben Vrackie warmed the hearts and strengthened the arms of the Highlanders,” when they defeated a government army at the battle of Killiecrankie, twelve miles to the south, in 1689.

Following the defeat of another Highland army, at the Battle of Culloden in 1746, George Robertson of Faskally hid from government soldiers in a large oak tree that stood near the site of the present distillery and was revived by the whisky made at Aldour Farm.

The farm took out a license to distil in 1798 and changed its name in 1825 – when it was rebuilt and expanded – to Blair Athol, although it is located in Pitlochry, eight miles south of Blair Atholl village.

As early as 1867, Arthur Bell, a whisky blender in Perth, reported to a customer that the best whiskies he bought in were from the “Glenlivet, Pitlochry and Stirlingshire districts.” In 1933, Bell and his sons bought Blair Athol distillery, and, with this acquisition, Arthur Bell & Sons moved from being a small local blender to being a medium-sized distiller with the potential to become a major player.

Blair Athol became a key filling for Bell’s blended Scotch and was not released as a single malt until 1972. This expression comes from the family-owned company, Hunter Laing, independent bottlers in Glasgow and is part of their First Edition series of easy-drinking younger malts. It has been matured in a sherry butt.

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Fruit loaf, sultanas, malted bread, allspice.

Spring 2020

New Releases

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The Loch Fyne The Living Cask Batch 9 Blended Malt Age: —

Vol: 43.6%

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50CL £45

Pale amber in colour. The nose-feel is mellow and the aroma complex and tightly integrated – dried figs, sultanas, malt loaf, a hint of milk chocolate, a thread of smoke. The taste is sweet overall and translates the aroma well, with a relatively short finish.

The Loch Fyne Living Cask first appeared in 1999 – a continually changing blended malt, inspired by the renowned oenophile Professor George Saintsbury, who wrote in his Notes on a Cellar-Book (1920): “…The more excellent way – formerly practised by all persons of some sense and some means north of the Tweed – is to establish a cask…fill it up with good and drinkable whisky… stand it up on end, tap it half way down or even a little higher, and, when you get to or near the tap, fill it up again with whisky fit to drink, but not too old.

“You thus establish what is called in the case of sherry a ‘solera’, in which the constantly changing character of the old constituents doctors the new accessions, and in which these in turn freshen and strengthen the old.”

It is an ingenious idea. Not only will the whisky continue to mature and change in the cask, but it provides the lucky owner with the opportunity to create their own, unique, blended malt, tailored to their own taste, and to vary the flavour so as never to become bored with one flavour profile. A common drawback reported by owners of single malt casks is that, frankly, they become weary of drinking the same whisky all the time – no matter how good that whisky might be.

In 2015, a second ‘Living Cask’ was installed in The Loch Fyne Whiskies shop at Inveraray. The two are continually being ‘refreshed’ with mature malts, left to marry for a period of time. When the Master Blender is happy with the blend, the liquid is bottled by hand in the shop and labelled by batch.

It strikes me that the flavour profile of Batch 9 has been much influenced by sherry-matured malts, with dried fruits to the fore.

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Malt loaf, a hint of milk chocolate, a thread of smoke.

Whiskeria

Spring 2020

New Releases

Glenkeir Treasures Twin Casks Secret Highland 11 Year Old

Highland Single Malt Age: 11 Year Old

Vol: 46%

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50CL £70

Mid-gold, with khaki lights. Mild on the nose, dry overall, and a somewhat closed aroma initially, with traces of dried fruits (apple especially) on a lightly mineral base; some dusty malt at reduced strength. A pleasant, mouth-filling, creamy texture and a taste which is both sweet and savoury, with light spice in the finish and aftertaste.

Glenkeir Treasures Twin Casks Secret Speyside 9 Year Old Speyside Single Malt Age:9 Year Old

Vol: 46%

70CL £68

Full gold in colour. The top notes are all European oak – malt loaf with sultanas, raisins, peel, allspice. The texture is light and smooth, and the taste starts sweet and finishes short, dry and peppery, with a warming glow. A drop of water reduces the pepper and lengthens the finish.

Glenkeir Treasures is a range of single malt whiskies, exclusive to The Whisky Shop and sourced direct from the distillers. Some makes are named, others are ‘secret’ out of respect for the brand owners’ wishes – some brand owners are reluctant to allow independent bottlers to name their whiskies, since the flavour profiles may not be the same as their own releases. A parallel might be drawn with bottlings from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, which hide the distillery name with a number.

Some of the Glenkeir Treasures are single cask bottlings, some are ‘twin casks’; some are bottled at source, others are decanted into individual barrels within The Whisky Shop’s outlets and are hand bottled on-site as and when the purchaser chooses them. They are bottled at 40% or 46% VOL, making them accessible and easy-drinking, without tinting them with spirit caramel or chill-filtration. Bottle sizes range from a small 10cl ‘Dram to Share’ to a standard 50cl bottle.

Each whisky is selected for its individual quality and attractiveness, usually between 8 and 12 years old, so they display the individual distillery character. The Whisky Shop’s experienced team of selectors conduct extensive searches and only pick casks they deem to be worthy.

“Whether dispensed from the barrel in one of our stores or bottled by us at source, every whisky that bears the Glenkeir Treasures label is unique, different and special. We guarantee its quality and we confidently expect that it will bring great pleasure to all who enjoy it.”

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Sweet and savoury, with light spice in the finish.

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Spring 2020

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Malt loaf with sultanas, raisins, peel, allspice.

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Industry Top-Up

Whisky News Spring 2020

Interesting Releases

Auction Records 41,000 Since its stills were turned off in 2000, Hanyu has become one of Japan's most sought after single malts, as proven by a winning bid of £41,000 for the final ‘Monochrome Joker’ bottling of Ichiro’s Malt Card Series – more than doubling in value since its last auction price of £20,000.

The Whisky Shop Auction Results 2,100 We’ve sold a bottle of The Macallan 1969 18 Year Old Sherry Cask for a fantastic £2,100 – proving continued demand for The Macallan in the secondary market.

1,350 A bottle of Springbank 1973 18 Year Old, bottled by Cadenhead's in 1991, was snapped up for £1,350 at the end of last year.

600 A Port Ellen 1976 24 Year Old bottled by Douglas Laing has sold for £600 – the highest we’ve seen it go for in the current market.

100,500 A full collection of the Yoshitoshi Ghost Series has sold at auction for £100,500. The series included single malts and blends from some of Japan’s most-loved distilleries, including bottlings from several of its legendary silent stills, like Karuizawa, Hanyu and Yamanashi.

296,500 Bottles from The Macallan Lalique Six Pillars collection have broken auction records after achieving a collective hammer price in January of £296,500, with bottle No.2 amassing a final auction price of £95,500 alone.

10,800,000 The most valuable whisky collection was unveiled in Vietnam at the end of last year.

Mr Viet Nguyen Dinh Tuan's collection was estimated to have an auction hammer price of nearly £10.8m by valuation experts at Rare Whisky 101.

Diageo has launched its final limited edition Game of Thrones whisky, Six Kingdoms – a Mortlach 15 Year Old, matured in first-fill sherry-seasoned casks and finished in American oak ex-bourbon casks. The Game of Thrones whisky releases helped the company boost its net sales to a staggering £12.9 billion by the end of last year.

The Dalmore has produced just three bottles of a new 60 Year Old expression to celebrate the brand's 180th anniversary.

The project was led by Master Distiller, Richard Paterson, who carefully married two “extremely rare” ex-sherry casks from six decades ago – the very last casks from when the Mackenzie clan operated the distillery – which were filled with spirit distilled on 7th June 1951.

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of Nikka’s Miyagikyo Distillery, the brand has launched two special releases – the Single Malt Miyagikyo Limited Edition 2019 and Single Malt Yoichi Limited Edition 2019 – with only 70 bottles available of each. The Miyagikyo expression contains some of the very first whisky to have come out of the distillery.

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Industry Insights

Whisky Business The sons of Whiskeria’s very own Charlie MacLean have set three world records after rowing the Atlantic Ocean in just 35 days as part of the Talisker Whisky Atlantic Challenge.

Jamie, Ewan and Lachlan MacLean are the first three brothers to row any ocean, and the youngest trio and the fastest trio to ever row the Atlantic. The brothers finished third overall in the race – first among trios and beating many teams of four and five.

Whisky industry representatives have been holding crunch talks in the US over concerns of a further hike in tariffs on single malts.

Boris Johnson has already urged Donald Trump to lift tariffs on Scotch whisky that were imposed in October last year over concerns that the US tax will wipe hundreds of millions off single malt sales. The SWA has warned that the industry could lose as much as 20% of its sales to the US, which are currently worth more than £1 billion, throughout the year ahead.

The Council of Whisky Masters has launched a certification programme for whisky professionals headed by an advisory board that includes Charlie MacLean, amongst other professionals from the industry. Candidates can take on studies to become a ‘Certified Scotch Professional’ or ‘Certified Bourbon Professional’, as well as a ‘Master of Scotch’ or ‘Master of Whiskey’.

Japanese spirits giant Suntory has acquired a 10% stake in Edrington for an undisclosed amount. The two companies have worked together since the early 1990s and Suntory is already a shareholder in The Macallan.

Commenting on the news, Edrington said the investment would provide “an inflow of funds to Edrington’s principal shareholder, The Robertson Trust, which will allow it to give more to good causes across Scotland.”

Bowmore has joined forces with Aston Martin to reflect “both brands’ commitment to heritage but also to cutting edge-design and manufacturing techniques.” The Islay single malt is now Aston Martin’s exclusive drinks partner and, together, they’ll be offering a series of special events and experiences around the world. Watch this space!

Australian whisky distillery Starward has appointed Simon Marton as its new CEO to oversee expansion plans into new markets and ramp up production capacity. Marton brings more than 20 years’ experience in the wine and spirits industry to his new role and takes the reigns at Starward as the company announce a mighty multimillion-dollar investment to help them achieve their 2020 plans.

Further developments to Isle of Arran Distillers’ new Lagg distillery are now possible thanks to a £25m funding package from Barclays. 2019 was an exciting year for the company which opened the doors of its new distillery and visitor centre in June, followed by the re-brand of its Arran Single Malt in September. Managing Director, Euan Mitchell, looks forward to the company’s 25th anniversary celebrations later this year and is “proud to partner with Barclays in securing long-term growth for future success.”

The businessmen behind Islay Ales have announced plans to build a combined brewery and distillery on Islay, which, along with beer, will produce single malt and the Scottish island’s “first rum”. Donald MacKenzie and MacKay Smith are currently seeking funding and will be helped by Jim McEwan, previously Master Distiller of Bruichladdich Distillery, to open the distillery in time for the Fèis Ìle festival in Islay in 2021.

Former Edinburgh Castle and Edinburgh Zoo boss, Barbara Smith, is set to join Diageo as General Manager of its flagship Johnnie Walker visitor experience, due to open later this year on Edinburgh’s Princes Street.

The Johnnie Walker attraction is part of a £150m investment by Diageo in Scotch whisky tourism. As well as managing the site in Edinburgh, Smith’s role will see her run Diageo's network of distillery visitor centres throughout Scotland.

Dr. Kirstie McCallum has joined Glen Moray as its new Head of Whisky Creation, taking over from Graham Coull who was Master Distiller at Glen Moray for 14 years.

McCallum joins from Distell, where she was Senior Blender for Bunnahabhain, Deanston and Tobermory. Her new role at Glen Moray puts creation and innovation at the top of the agenda, with opportunities to experiment with new cask types and develop new expressions.

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Spring 2020

The W Club

Rye not?

Prohibition in the United States devastated the rye whiskey industry – the effects of which it never quite recovered from.

When Prohibition finally ended in 1933, rye had faded into the background, with bourbon taking the spotlight as the flagship American whiskey. It is therefore nothing short of miraculous that rye itself has been able to stage a comeback – dubbed the ‘rye revival’ – with WhistlePig leading the charge. the rye revival Just over 10 years ago, WhistlePig’s Master Distiller, the late Dave Pickerell, had set himself a mission to find the world’s perfect rye whiskey.

Central to the growth of Maker’s Mark bourbon for 14 years, Pickerell quickly earned himself a reputation as a ‘legendary’ pioneer in craft distilling. Bartenders were his idols – he viewed them as the gatekeepers of the consumer’s palate, and therefore, key players in his pilgrimage.

Pickerell observed a major shift in cocktail trends that sought out fuller-flavoured whiskies for classic cocktail recipes. He discovered that bartenders wanted 100% straight rye whiskey.

In 2008, Pickerell joined forces with Raj Bhakta to plot the long-awaited return of rye whiskey to the US. WhistlePig Rye Distillery was then founded on a single-estate farm in Shoreham, Vermont. Today, WhistlePig is already a widely respected and revolutionary force in the whisk(e)y industry as the most awarded rye whiskey in the world. However, with little room for complacency, WhistlePig is determined to spark the ‘rye revival’ within the UK. As self-confessed rye enthusiasts at The W Club, we were more than willing to help spread the good word.

The tasting was broadcast live from The Whisky Shop in Piccadilly and also attended by members in person. Ballot winners and attendees were then shortlisted for the second and final stages of the competition.

a tasting with christian tirel The tasting itself took place a week before Christmas. Many in the room had certainly heard of rye, some were pretty familiar with its spicier profile, but the majority were approaching the tasting with a healthy dose of scepticism. Members got started with a Maple Old Fashioned, made with WhistlePig’s very own barrel-aged maple syrup from the oak on the farm.

Christian Tirel, WhistlePig’s UK Brand Ambassador, explained that the distillery uses most of its own resources from the surrounding farm, hence, their trademark ‘Triple Terroir’.

It doesn’t get any craftier than this.

Christian himself was wonderfully enthusiastic – his quirky nuggets of information held the room’s interest. Inevitably, so did the whiskey.

Upon first nip of WhistlePig 10 Year Old, surprised faces spread across the room. Stefan Falkner commented, “for a 100% straight rye, you would expect plenty of spice, but this is a lot smoother enter, the w club… than I expected.” Sweeter notes of caramel and In December 2019, we launched our biggest toffee echoed amongst members before grassy competition yet. In collaboration with WhistlePig, and straw-like characteristics became more our members were offered the chance to win prominent, reminding us of the agricultural a trip to the distillery in Vermont and have the surroundings of the distillery. So far, so good. once-in-a-lifetime task of choosing a single barrel Christian then introduced WhistlePig 15 rye to launch as The W Club’s next exclusive Year Old as “one of the absolute jewels in the crown.” bottling. An incredible opportunity for anyone “We’re in luck tonight” – he revealed, as he doesn’t on a whisky journey; it’s no surprise that the usually sample this expression at many consumer entries flooded our inbox. After an initial ballot, tastings. Even luckier, the 15 Year Old turned 50 winners were invited to tune into a Facebook out to be the favourite whiskey of the night. livestream tasting of WhistlePigʼs whiskies.

“A wallop of sweet black cherries!” enthused Simon

From exclusive tastings to private cask selections, The W Club’s Natalie McLaughlin, gives the low down on what’s been happening recently at the club.

House. “Excellent, and very smooth,” Paul Charles commented on the livestream.

Up next was WhistlePig Single Barrel Rye 10 Year Old, an expression that had been specially selected and bottled for The Whisky Shop. The liquid was chosen by Darren Leitch of The Whisky Shop, who talked us through the process.

“We had five whiskies to choose from, and for me, barrel #72177 was the most unique,” Darren told us.

“On the palate, it was by far the richest and smoothest and at 55.7% VOL, it works perfectly over ice, and equally in a classic cocktail such as an Old Fashioned or Sazerac.”

The rest of the range for the night, including WhistlePig’s FarmStock Rye and Old World 12 Year Old, proved just how versatile and flavoursome WhistlePig whiskies are. As the tasting came to a close, Christian was kind enough to stick around and answer questions in great detail, and with a refreshing honesty. Judging by reactions in the room, it was apparent that WhistlePig had garnered a few new fans, ready to follow them on their journey. “I had never tried rye whiskey before,” said Balendra Elango, “but I was really surprised by just how much I liked it.”

A few days after the tasting, Michael Wooldridge was chosen as the lucky winner of the competition.

“I can't believe I have been lucky enough to win - having the opportunity to actually visit the WhistlePig farm will be incredible. I hope I can do The W Club proud and help pick an amazing cask.” We hope so too, Michael!

Head to New Releases to read Charlie MacLean’s tasting notes on The Whisky Shop’s exclusive WhistlePig bottling and keep an eye out for a full debrief on Michael’s visit to the distillery in the Autumn edition of Whiskeria.

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WhistlePig Distillery operates on a single-estate farm in Shoreham, Vermont

Join in-store, or on online at thewclub.co.uk Follow us: @mywclub Unlocking the mystery of whisky

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Whiskeria

Spring 2020

Daft about Cocoa the cask The W Club

Loco

Among the wave of Scotch newcomers, a great deal of hype continues to surround the elusive and enigmatic Daftmill Distillery. From the 13 year wait for its inaugural release in 2018, to the forgotten traditional style of its production, the farm-come-distillery has garnered an almost cult-like following of whisky lovers from around the world. So, when a group of us at The W Club were invited to visit Daftmill and hand-select a single cask earlier this year, we couldn’t quite believe our luck. It’s not every day that the distillery opens up its doors to the public, so we knew that we were in for something quite special.

Photography Christina Kernohan.

Knowledge Bar The Daftmill way Daftmill distillery operates on a seasonal basis around the farming calendar – a production method that was once the norm but has not been seen in Scotland for the last 100 years. Key to the magic of Daftmill – the distillery operates in harmony with the farm, and the farm in harmony with the distillery.

Daftmill’s fields provide the barley for its whisky, with spent grains providing a nutritious feed for the farm’s cattle; the pot ale and spent lees left over from distillation are re-used as a fertiliser for the grass; and the warm water that has been used to cool the copper stills is either kept for the next mash or is pumped into the duck pond to help the water from freezing over during winter.

The Founders of Daftmill Distillery are brothers Francis and Ian Cuthbert, both sixth-generation farmers in the beautiful Howe of Fife. The farm has been in existence for 1,000 years and the Cuthbert family reckon that they’re only the third family to own it within that time. The farm has beef cattle, vegetable plots and plenty of barley – most of which is regularly sold to the Edrington group for the likes of The Macallan and Highland Park. It wasn’t until the new millennium that the idea of keeping some of the barley to make Daftmill’s own whisky became a viable commercial project. In 2003, the Cuthberts converted three of their buildings into a distillery and in 2005, were granted their licence to distil.

It was great timing, as the global rise in demand for whisky was about to cause the biggest industry boom in decades. taking the tour It’s no secret that Daftmill has been a sell-out success with each release, but this isn’t boasted at the farm itself. Upon our arrival at the farm, we’re met by Francis himself, who seems unfazed by the notion of ‘whisky fame’. An amiable and modest man, he answers every question with refreshing ease and honesty. His wife brings us homemade soup to keep us warm as we chat away.

Looking around, the first thing that strikes us is the lack of people on-site. Throughout our visit, Francis often nips out to different spots around the farm to tend to its various needs. He operates the whisky production by hand, from milling and mashing, through to fermenting and distilling, and finally filling and bottling. We all agree that we haven’t seen anything like it.

is it really just a one-man-band?

“It doesn’t really make much difference,” says Francis. “Most of the time I’m catching up on cleaning – I spend a couple of hours in the morning making a mess and spend the rest of the day cleaning it up.”

Francis insists that he is a farmer first, and a parttime distiller second. In order to keep in harmony with the farm’s seasonality, whisky production only happens twice a year: once during the quieter winter months and then again in the summer.

This is reminiscent of a traditional style of operation used by farm distilleries in Scotland over 100 years ago. Daftmill may not be stateof-the-art, but there’s a certain rare and magical quality here that requires no tweaking. At the same time, it comes as no surprise that the pressure is on for Francis to go bigger.

“Everyone’s wanting more, but [the worry is] whether or not doing more will kill the thing that makes it a little bit special, and then you become like everyone else,” says Francis. “The big factor for us is time. The way I operate is slow and labour-intensive so it doesn’t lend itself to ramping up production. We could work for more of the year, maybe produce a bit more, but [we] don’t want to lose the seasonality. I quite like the fact that it goes on sale, then sells out, so you don’t have releases overlapping and gathering dust on the shelf.”

We chat about the rise of whisky tourism and ask about the possibility of a visitor centre for Daftmill. “Well, my daughter's always moaning about needing more money for her phone, so she could take the tours,” Francis jokes. He openly agrees that offering ticketed tours would be easy money, but this doesn’t seem to be a motivating factor for him. In fact, Francis has never bowed to market

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pressures. Between 2005 and the first bottling in June 2018, Francis was constantly pressed for a release date, to which he would always reply that he simply wasn’t happy enough with it yet. selecting the cask Luckily for us, Francis has plenty of whisky for us to try in his warehouse. We’re handed over the necessary tools: bung puller, valinch, and tasting glasses. He generously offers us a few recommendations, but it seems apparent that nothing is really off limits. As tempting as it was to crack open everything we wanted, we knew we had to have some sort of plan (and willpower).

Finding a cask that represented The W Club prompted some important considerations. We were on the lookout for an all-rounder whisky – one that can be sipped straight but can also hold its own with a splash of water, or, dare we say, a cube of ice! After all, our members are diverse in the way they drink their whisky. With just(!) three hours to spare, it doesn’t take us long to crack open at least a dozen casks. We sample various vintages and a mix of bourbon and Oloroso sherry barrels at cask strength – the process has to be meticulous, of course. We manage to narrow our favourites down to four fantastic whiskies – two from 2006, one from 2007, and one from 2008 – that represent Daftmill’s house-style of sweet tropical fruits.

and the winner is…

Now it’s time for the real tests. Each whisky at cask strength has a full body, but we want a dram that can handle a bit of dilution and still have its character shine through. It’s close – there’s a lot of back and forth – and we choose our winner: 2006 cask #35, an ex-bourbon cask from Heaven Hill.

Exhilarated, proud, and a bit numb from the cold, it’s time to find Cupar’s finest chippy after a tough day. The hard work is over!

The W Club Daftmill Exclusive will be released later in the year, so keep your eyes peeled for any mailout teasers coming your way. It will be a limited edition bottle, and due to high demand, we will be running a ballot for members of The W Club only. The first bottle from the cask will make an appearance on The Whisky Shop Auctions, where all proceeds will go to Just a Drop, a sustainable safe water charity. In the meantime, you can sign up to The W Club at www.thewclub. co.uk for just £30 a year. We’re beyond excited to collaborate with Daftmill on this highly exclusive release – we cannot thank Francis and the team enough for one of the best experiences of our whisky journeys so far!

The W Club's Cask Committee sampling single cask expressions from Daftmill's barrel room

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Whiskeria

Spring 2020

A Time in History

A Spanish– Scotch LoveAffair From Madrid to Jerez, Brian Wilson follows the journey of Scotch whisky through Spain.

❛

Spaniards prefer their drinks long and cold, so most of the 60 million bottles of Scotch a year which end up there share the glass with Coke and other mixers.

For four centuries, there has been a little bit of Scotland’s history at the heart of Madrid, though few who stroll along the Gran Vía would recognise it.

The story goes back to the post-Reformation period when Catholicism was repressed in Scotland with Calvinist zeal. A Catholic nobleman, Hugh Semple of Lochwinnoch, had the ear of Spanish kings and made it his mission to create a college in Madrid for the training of Scottish priests.

Eventually, in 1627, Semple’s efforts prevailed. In the following century, the college decamped to Valladolid (where it had the benefit of its own vineyard) but the Scottish Bishops retained the Madrid property to fund the college from revenues it produced. That proved to be a shrewd move.

In the early 20th century, Madrid blossomed as a capital city, the Gran Vía was constructed and the Semple site stood in its way. It was exchanged for a prime location on the new thoroughfare – which explains why, down to the present day, the Scottish Catholic Church is landlord to a clutch of hotels and a branch of McDonald’s where the Gran Vía meets the Calle de la Montera.

Nowadays, another Scottish outpost in a fashionable Madrid street – Calle de Serrano – can be claimed for more temporal reasons.

The city was chosen by Diageo for the first in a worldwide network of Johnnie Walker

“experiential” flagship stores where you can not only buy the product but learn about its history, join in tastings and enjoy cocktail masterclasses in opulent surroundings.

The next of these stylish outlets will open this year in Edinburgh’s Princes Street. Greg Klingaman, Diageo’s Global Retail Director is responsible for the Madrid venture and also the Edinburgh development. After a highly successful first year, he says: “We’re ecstatic about the interest it has generated with locals and international tourists alike - from brand fans to whisky connoisseurs to the whisky curious. We’ve also been named a finalist for five international retail design and experiences awards.”

Why Madrid? Greg explains: “It is a worldclass tourist destination and a hub for cuttingedge design, gastronomy, nightlife and business innovation.” There’s also the fact that Spain likes its whisky – it is the fifth largest market in the world for Scotch both by volume and value, just behind Germany and ahead of Taiwan.

Spaniards prefer their drinks long and cold, so most of the 60 million bottles of Scotch a year which end up there share the glass with Coke and other mixers. I remember 20 years ago visiting the Diageo bottling plant near Glasgow Airport and an entire production line was devoted to J&B with Spanish labels which, I was told, was destined to be mixed with Coke by young consumers as their fashionable drink of preference.

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A Time in History

Right: Madrid's Gran Vía — Above: The Telefonica building on Gran Vía, the site of the former college for training Scottish priests — Below: A statue of Alexander Fleming, saluted by a matador, outside Las Ventas bullring in Madrid.

An inscription reads: 'To Dr Fleming, with the gratitude of bullfighters'; their lives were in less danger because of his discovery [penicillin] — Bottom: Statue of Manuel María González , with a barrel of Tio Pepe, by Catedral de San Salvador, in Jerez de la Frontera, Spain — Photography: Roy Firth

Knowledge Bar Spain

ASTURIAS

CANTABRIA

PAIS VASCO

GALICIA

NAVARRA LA RIOJA

CASTILLA

CATALUÑA

LEÓN Palazuelos de Eresma

ARAGÓN

MADRID

Madrid

EXTREMADURA

CASTILLA LA MANCHA

MURCIA

ANDALUSÍA Jerez de la Frontera

ISLAS BALEARES VALENCIA

Discover the unique character of every single cask.

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❛ In recent years, another historic link between the Scotch whisky industry and Spain has undergone a revival.

This involves the use of sherry barrels for the maturing of whisky.

Air Chemical interaction occurs between the alcohol and sherry-soaked oak

Up to 10 litres of sherry is soaked into the staves of an oak butt Oak Maturation Process

Since then, there has been a lot more competition from gin and vodka, but whisky has held its own. It leads the Spanish spirits market with a 25 per cent share (ahead of gin, with 19 per cent) of which imports from Scotland account for nine-tenths. However, it is only fair to recognise that Spain’s taste for whisky was not built on imports which are a relatively recent phenomenon; rather it was a home-produced whisky which created the mass market.

Back in the late 1950s, a family business in the small town of Palazuelos de Eresma, an hour north of Madrid in the Segovia region, became the pioneer of Spanish whisky production. Until then, it had produced the leading brand of anise in Spain, Anís La Castella, but Nicomedes García Gomez, the son of the founder, travelled to Scotland and became convinced of the potential for a whisky business in Spain.

The result was the commencement of whisky distilling at Palazuelos de Eresma in 1959 with the product, called DYC (Destilería y Crianza), arriving to market four years later. The brand quickly became popular and introduced Spanish consumers to a drink with which the vast majority had previously been unfamiliar.

Fernando Montañés, a marketing professor at the Autonomous University of Madrid, wrote the history of DYC when the brand celebrated its 50th anniversary. He told me: “At that time, the whisky market was very small because Spain was an impoverished country with a closed economy.

There were huge import taxes to prevent foreign exchange going abroad, and that made whisky a luxury liquor within reach of only a few.

“That is why the whisky market in Spain is mainly due to DYC which, with much lower taxes, was affordable. Its founder had excellent contacts with the dictatorship of Francisco Franco, and even managed to change the law to be able to

distil alcohol from cereals, which until then was forbidden due to the food scarcity suffered ever since the Civil War.” DYC's success was thus based on using Scottish methods to distil a whisky in Spain and then selling it at a much lower price, backed up by strong radio advertising – the leading medium of the era.

When the Spanish economy started to open up to imports in the 1970s, DYC fought back with the slogan it still uses: “Gente sin complejos/ People without complexes” – the implication being that a preference for imports was based more on snobbery than quality, which just might be true if you’re mixing the stuff with Coke!

When DYC’s sales were at their peak, production could not meet demand and they developed a close relationship with Lochside Distillery in Montrose. This survived until Lochside’s eventual owners, Domecq, closed and demolished the distillery in 1997.

Meanwhile, DYC – now owned by Beam Suntory – had expanded its own capacity and is still the third biggest-selling whisky brand in Spain.

In recent years, another historic link between the Scotch whisky industry and Spain has undergone a revival. This involves the use of sherry barrels for the maturing of whisky.

The trend has been led by Edrington’s The Macallan who have partnerships with three of the Jerez region’s four cooperages. The oak used to make the barrels is sourced in northern Spain and in the United States, mainly Kentucky.

The Hudosa cooperage at Jerez de Frontera is the largest producer for The Macallan. The wood is dried for 12 to 18 months before it is formed into barrels and filled with sherry.

Hudosa partners with the venerable sherry producers Williams & Humbert who own the biggest bodega in Europe. Of the 60,000 barrels stored inside this cavernous facility, one-third

are dedicated to The Macallan.

“The wine doesn’t belong to us,” says The Macallan’s Stuart MacPherson, who bears the splendid title Master of Wood, having started in the industry as an apprentice cooper 40 years ago. Thus, Williams & Humbert sell the sherry, while The Macallan receives the sherryseasoned barrels for export to Scotland.

Asked for a favourite memory from this long career in the industry, Stuart says: “Perhaps it would be the opportunity to sit in a bar in southern Spain, knowing that The Macallan we are drinking is associated with the barrels that the region produced a number of years before. I think it’s the romanticism associated with that which means so much and is so dear to me.”

As demand from other Scottish distilleries has grown and time pressures have intensified, the exporting of casks has become a business in its own right rather than a by-product of sherry production. When the wine in the barrels is not given time to mature, it ends up as sherry vinegar and the vinegar from Jerez is regularly rated best in the world. So, everyone’s a winner!

Back in the bars of the Gran Vía, the circular journey is completed. Fine Scotch whisky and Spanish sherry barrels make a powerful combination, though I’m still not too sure about the Coke!

A Time in History

Knowledge Bar How do sherry casks affect whisky?

THE PALETTE OF BENRIACH. We source our eclectic cask collection from all over the world. From this colourful palette our master blender Rachel Barrie artfully combines bourbon, Oloroso sherry and virgin oak casks to create BenRiach 10 Year-Old, a rich Speyside single malt with an abundance of orchard fruits, luscious sweetness and toasted oak spice.

BenRiach. Exploring flavour since 1898.

Savour with time, drink responsibly.

The BenRiach is a registered trademark Š2019 BenRiach

❀✿❀✿❀

I belong tae Glesga ➛

Once Scotland’s industrial capital, Glasgow is now home to a thriving culinary scene that holds its own against any major city. Pride for native produce and Scotland’s national drink are evident throughout the menus of the city’s bars and restaurants, as well as a focus on sustainability, inclusivity and exploration. We’ve taken it upon ourselves to eat and drink our way around the city to bring you some of Glasgow’s most delectable hidden gems.

Travel

Tour Guide/ Glasgow

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Spring 2020

Travel

The Whisky Shop Glasgow

City Centre | Buchanan Galleries, Buchanan Street, G1 2GF | @thewhiskyshop

Kyle Kyle started working at the Glasgow store last summer.

Originally from Benderloch, just north of Oban, Kyle moved down to Glasgow to finish his studies in Gaelic. Currently enjoying Lagavulin 16 Year Old and The GlenDronach Revival 15 Year Old, Kyle also suggests Fettercairn 12 Year Old as an ideal dram for spring. When asked where he would head for a post-work tipple, Kyle responds: "The Park Bar in Finnieston.

It's full of Highlanders! You're always guaranteed a good laugh and great live music there."

Micky Originally from Plymouth, Micky moved up to Glasgow 11 years ago with the Royal Navy. Coincidentally, Micky began his whisky journey around the same time, after spending a long weekend at Kinloch Rannoch just outside of Aberfeldy. “The hotel had an amazing whisky bar,” explains Micky, “and after some time chatting to the barman, he had me hooked!” Micky recommends Ledaig 6 Year Old from the Glenkeir Treasures range, made by Tobermory Distillery on Mull, as well as a range of expressions from Kingsbarns Distillery.

Donald Part of the Glasgow team for over a year, Donald moved from The Whisky Shop in York. He’s a big fan of Laphroaig Select and also Glen Scotia Victoriana, and recommends Auchentoshan, Loch Lomond and Isle of Arran Distillers to anyone looking to get started on their whisky journey. “All close to Glasgow, these are whiskies that are local, easy-going and delicious!”

Gordon and Martin Father and son, Gordon and Martin are members of The W Club and all-around whisky aficionados, shopping at The Whisky Shop in Glasgow since the store opened.

The duo pop into the shop regularly to chat to the team about new releases and exclusive bottlings, and as for instore tastings, Gordon remarks that he doesn’t think he’s missed a single one! Gordon’s last purchase was Glen Scotia Victoriana, while Martin is currently enjoying Bowmore 15 Year Old.

Woodlands | 140 Elderslie Street, G3 7QF | @five_march

Blink and you’ll miss it, Five March is located on a leafy little corner of Kelvingrove Park in Glasgow’s West End. Although a big hit on social media, Five March’s best reviews come through word of mouth, with one regular claiming “there are just not enough adjectives” to describe how good this place is. Co-owners Jo Nethery, Kevin Small and Peter McKay all hail from impressive careers in Glasgow’s food and drinks scene and set out to open Five March in 2017. The objective of their menu is to encourage family-style eating and conversation at the dinner table, with a dish on the menu for everyone.

“We’re inspired by the Mediterranean family lunch,” explains Jo, “where people eat for hours and choose from lots of different plates. It’s such a beautiful way to enjoy time together.

“When you eat out in a group, one person is usually hungry, one person isn’t, and one person has a dietary requirement – we designed our menu with all of this in mind. The dishes can be shared, and we make sure half of them are vegetarian – which can very easily be made vegan. At last, vegetarians and vegans don’t have to pick the worst dish on the menu!”

And what about the drinks? Bar Manager Andy explains that focus is on simplicity and creating low-impact cocktails that use ingredients easily sourced in Scotland.

“We work together with the kitchen on the menu, sharing ingredients to ensure as little waste as possible. Our cocktails don’t have names; instead they’re numbered. By removing the bells and whistles, we’ve found people are less afraid to try what’s on the menu.”

Ben Nevis

Finnieston | 1147 Argyle Street, G3 8TB | @bennevisbar

Bringing a little bit of the Highlands to the city, the Ben Nevis lies behind a fairly unassuming exterior that opens up into a cosy, bothy-like bar.

The pub boasts a towering gantry of over 320 whiskies, giving Bon Accord and The Pot Still – firm Glasgow whisky bar favourites – a run for their money. On top of an impressive collection of drams, the Ben Nevis is a hit amongst Scottish folk musicians and is known for regular traditional music sessions on a Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday night.

“We have a great a mix of regulars and newcomers at the pub,” explains bartender Owen. “Plenty come for the whisky and end up staying for the music.”

Travel

Five March

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Spring 2020

National Whisky Festival at SWG3

Kelvinhaugh | 100 Eastvale Place, Stobcross Road, G3 8QG | @swg3glasgow | @nationalwhiskyfestival

Tucked at the end of an industrial road lined with railway arches lies SWG3. Once an old warehouse in a less frequented part of town, the space has transformed over the past 18 years into one of the UK’s leading culture and arts hubs. As well as running an on-site bar and restaurant, SWG3 is host to a calendar of gigs, club nights and exhibitions – including Scotland’s National Whisky Festival, taking place in Glasgow at the end of January each year.

With tickets priced at just £35, the mission of the festival is to make Scotland’s national drink accessible to a wider audience, working towards creating the next generation of whisky drinkers. The National Whisky Festival invites distilleries from across the globe to sample their wares and is held in collaboration with Glasgow’s Celtic Connections music festival, which provides a soundtrack of live music from some of Scotland’s leading folk artists throughout the day.

Now a firm staple in the Glasgow calendar, The National Whisky Festival has proven so popular that its organisers have announced three more festivals to take place later this year: 24th April in London, 18th July in Edinburgh and 5th September in Aberdeen.

Wester Spirit Co.

Partick | Unit 2, 8 Meadow Road, G11 6HX | @westerspiritco

Although better known for its grain-based spirits, Glasgow is now home to its first rum distillery in over 300 years. Founded in 2017 by school friends Allan Nairn and Zander Macgregor, Wester Spirit Co. is named after Wester Sugar House which was established in the 1660s in the Merchant City area of Glasgow.

The distillers have full control over the production process, with fermentation, distillation, maturation and bottling all taking place within the four walls of their West End distillery. Wester Spiced Rum is the distillery’s signature product – infused with fresh ginger, lime, orange peel and star anise – with plans to release an aged rum later this year.

“We’ve been maturing our rum in virgin American oak barrels made for us by Speyside Cooperage,” explains Zander. “We’re also experimenting with ex-Laphroaig, ex-bourbon and European virgin oak casks, and tasting the liquid as we go – the ageing regulations of the whisky world don’t exist in rum, so, really, we’ll bottle our aged rums as soon as we’re happy with them.”

As well as ramping up rum production, Allan and Zander are installing even more kit to begin making whisky.

“We’re looking at our whisky with a totally open mind and won’t be sticking to just one style. Being the size of distillery that we are, we have the freedom to experiment.”

Kelvinhaugh | 100 Eastvale Place, Stobcross Road, G3 8QG | @acidbar_swg3 Southside | 1109 Pollokshaws Road, G41 3YG | @julieskopitiam

At the heart of SWG3 is the venue’s Acid Bar and Restaurant, home to a rotation of restaurants showcasing the talents of Glasgow’s food and drinks scene, and currently occupied by Julie’s Kopitiam. Set up in 2017 by Julie Lin MacLeod, this Malaysian eatery offers home-cooked dishes that have gained well-deserved cult status within Glasgow. With the original restaurant located in Glasgow’s Southside, Julie's residency at SWG3 came about after years of running food stalls at the venue’s gigs and festivals.

“I suppose it’s been a natural progression,” considers Julie, “from a little table with me, an induction hob and a paper sign, to our very own residency here. We’re thrilled! It’s great to have our food in another part of the city.”

From cooking dinner for friends to running a Michelin guide restaurant, Julie’s journey in food has been nothing short of inspiring.

“My interest definitely came from growing up with my mum,” explains Julie. “Food is such a big part of Malaysian culture. It’s been really nice to connect with where I’m from through food.”

After an appearance on Masterchef in 2014, Julie decided to quit her HR job to scrub pots in a Glasgow restaurant and learn how a kitchen really worked. Julie moved on to become a sous chef, under the training of Laurie McMillan, before running her own street food stall on Gordon Street and then opening Julie’s Kopitiam in 2017.

And what about the woman who inspired it all; how has Julie’s mum reacted to her daughter’s culinary success?

“She loves it! I still pass recipes by my mum – she’s our hardest critic! But she’s been an incredible support, as well as my gran, who’s close to her 90s and still cooking dinners for her pals. That’s the goal – to be in my 80s and still cooking for my friends.”

The Steps Bar

Mono

Full to the brim with Glaswegian character, The Steps Bar is one of the city’s most historic pubs that still maintains the bulk of its original 1930s Art Deco furnishings.

There’s no doubt about it – music lovers are spoilt for choice when it comes to live gigs in Glasgow, and Mono is at the heart of the city’s independent music and arts scene. As well as a gig venue, the space offers an in-house record store, micro-brewery, vegan café bar and plenty of community spirit.

Merchant City | 62 Glassford Street, G1 1UP

Trongate | 12 King’s Court, King Street, G1 5RB | @monoglasgow

Travel

Julie’s Kopitiam

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Koelschip Yard

Southside | 686-688 Pollokshaws Road, G41 2QB | @koelschipyard

This Southside taproom prides itself on stocking a plethora of weird and wonderful beers from around the world, including over 50 different sour beers, 30-odd IPAs, 15 imperial stouts and 14 draft beers that change on a regular basis.

“With Koelschip Yard, we’ve basically created the bar we always wanted,” explains owner Dom Nisbet. “We’ve built up a community of regulars that not only enjoy drinking what’s on offer here, but share whatever amazing beer they’ve been sent by a friend or have brought back from a trip.”

Pictured below: Iron Brew Sour

Hidden Lane Brewery

Finnieston | 1103 Argyle St, G3 8ND | @hiddenlanebrewery

Glasgow's first organic brewhouse, Hidden Lane Brewery puts community at its core by regularly inviting local bartenders to brew with them and learn more about the industry and their craft.

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Travel

Kelvingrove Café

Finnieston | 1161 Argyle Street, G3 8TB | @glasgowkelvingrovecafe

First opened as a Victorian ice cream parlour in 1896, Kelvingrove Café was restored in 2013 to its original glamour as a bar and bistro in the style of a contemporary European grand café – the authentic signage was even recovered after being hidden underneath decades' worth of paint and grime.

Coinciding with the opening of event and concert venue The SSE Hydro, Kelvingrove Café trailblazed the revival of the local area, which is now home to a host of top-class bars and restaurants including The Finnieston, The Gannet and Six By Nico.

Pioneers of mixology in the city, the Kelvingrove Café team is led by top bartender and owner, Barry Oattes. Cocktail recipes focus on an impressive collection of spirits, amaro and fortified wines, with emphasis on exquisite presentation that includes beautiful glassware and hand-cut ice.

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Whiskeria

Spring 2020

Bar Brett

Kelvinbridge | 321 Great Western Road, G4 9HR | @bar_brett

“We’re trying to take customers out of their comfort zone, encouraging them to drink unusual wines that they may never have tried before. That’s why our team of experts is so important to us.”

Cail Bruich

West End | 725 Great Western Road, G12 8QX | @cailbruich

Known for using local and sustainable produce, Cail Bruich offers a menu of exceptional Scottish cuisine that changes in harmony with the seasons, not to mention an impressive collection of drams.

“Our food and drinks offering is inspired by Scotland's natural larder. Our whisky shelf includes Glenfiddich Grand Cru, Macallan 25 Year Old and Daftmill 2006.”

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Travel

Wheesht

Undisclosed location | @wheeshtbar

Hidden gems don’t get much more inconspicuous than this. Wheesht is a speakeasy-style bar initially launched as a pop-up and is the brainchild of bartenders, best pals and Kelvingrove Café alumni, Jamie Moran and Dave Ali. The name is taken from the Scots phrase “haud yer wheesht” – telling someone to be quiet with a hefty dose of Glaswegian charm!

After a successful opening, Wheesht is set to stay as a permanent fixture, but its location remains shrouded in secrecy. In order to book a table and find out the whereabouts of the bar, guests are required to get in touch with Jamie or Dave via phone call, text or email and quote a daily-changing password, which can be found on social media.

“We send guests instructions on where to meet us on the street and they then have to repeat the password to us – reminiscent of speakeasies in 1920s and 1930s New York,” explains Dave. “It adds a bit of theatre around the whole experience.”

Operating without a menu, the focus of Wheesht is top-notch service and bespoke cocktails, tailored to customers’ personal tastes.

“The bar’s personality may be quite tongue in cheek,” says Dave, “but we’re very serious about our drinks.”

Vin Cru

Merchant City | 60 Candleriggs, Merchant Square, G1 1LEX | @thevincru

“I almost don’t want to review it and ruin my best kept secret” – the words of one delighted drinker on TripAdvisor after paying a visit to Glasgow’s newest wine bar, Vin-Cru. Pronounced ‘van-crew’, the name means ‘raw wine’ in French and the focus is just that – demonstrated by the bar’s extensive list of low-intervention wines. Opened at the end of 2019, owners Colin Campbell and John Baillie joined forces after becoming friends through already running their own eateries in the city.

“We both discovered natural wine in Berlin and fell for it completely,” explains Colin. “We had always talked about doing something together in Glasgow, and this was it.”

Colin describes the natural wine on offer as “wine the way it used to be made.”

“It’s generally made by small producers who are growing the grapes themselves and trying to intervene with the wine-making process as little as possible. I’m really interested in the exploratory side of things, like wild fermentation.”

Since opening, Colin describes Glasgow’s response to Vin-Cru – and natural wine in general – as being overwhelmingly positive. For those less curious, there is still something familiar behind the bar.

“Whisky is our national drink, so it’s an important part of our bar.

We’ve got Springbank 15 Year Old on the menu at the moment, as well as Balvenie 14 Year Old Caribbean Cask and Nikka from the Barrel.”

— Take a closer look inside Vin-Cru, the location for our chat with Grant Hutchison, on page 64.

My Whiskeria Grant Hutchison 64

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Going, Cocoa going, gone!

My Craft

Loco

Over the past few years, whisky prices at auction have been rising at an unprecedented rate thanks to increasing demand from connoisseurs, collectors and investors alike. We get the inside scoop on rare whisky acquisition from David Robertson, former Master Distiller for The Macallan and co-founder of whisky valuation, brokerage and consultancy service, Rare Whisky 101.

Knowledge Bar Rare Whisky 101 Launched in 2014 by David Robertson and Andy Simpson David and Andy are both Keepers of the Quaich (and whisky-collectors themselves) Rare Whisky 101 has a database of over 50,000 different bottle types and 525,000 price records – the largest and most detailed price database in the world! www.rarewhisky101.com @WhiskyInvestor

David, both you and your father have enjoyed impressive careers in Scotch whisky – it seems you were pretty much Scotch whisky born and bred! Where did it all begin?

Indeed, a fun 30 years or so in the whisky industry! My father worked for Scottish Malt Distillers and I was born when he was Assistant Manager at Royal Brackla in Nairn. He was then promoted to Manager at Aberfeldy where I lived an idyllic childhood from 1970 to 1983, walking through the distillery to and from school most days. During my father’s career, my interest in science and whisky really grew. I spotted the Brewing & Distilling course at Heriot-Watt University, starting in 1985 and graduating in 1990 with a 2:1 Hons. Phew.

In 1996, Macallan was taken over by Highland Distillers (now part of Edrington) who put a lot of investment behind the distillery, brand and business. I was invited to develop some new whiskies which was great fun! My proudest creations are The Macallan 1979 18 Year Old Gran Reserva, The Macallan 30 Year Old – Blue Box, The Macallan 1949 50 Year Old Millennium Decanter and the Fine & Rare range.

Sounds fantastic! And how about your more recent roles?

More recently I was lucky to join Whyte & Mackay as Innovation Director and was tasked with re-positioning and re-branding The Dalmore.

We had an amazing depth of aged stocks to play with and, led by the incomparable Richard Your career highlights include Distillery Paterson, we set about creating a new range, Manager and Master Distiller at Macallan – new look, and yes, new (higher) price. tell us a bit about your time there.

Latterly, I’ve joined forces with Andy Simpson Macallan was an incredible experience. to set up Rare Whisky 101 – brokers, valuers and However, it all came about given my university analysts. It’s been an incredible ride with an degree and the four years I spent working at explosion in global demand for rare whiskies, United Distillers (now Diageo), where I worked the dynamic growth of auction sites and the at Benrinnes Distillery for one and a half years emerging demand for rare casks. as Trainee Manager. In August 1994, Macallan And just this year I have been lucky to be decided to take me on and I began working under involved in developing Holyrood Distillery the great Frank Newlands. It was a tough gig for in the heart of Edinburgh – returning malt a young (and wet behind-the-ears!) 26-year-old, whisky distilling to the capital for the first but I moved to live on-site at the distillery and, time since 1925! under Frank’s counsel, truly learned the ropes.

I had been on the nosing panel at United Rare whisky acquisition is growing fast; what Distillers and, after a bit of training from Frank, role does Rare Whisky 101 play in this market? was invited to take a much more active role Rare whisky acquisition is exploding! While supporting Frank in the sample room to work working at Macallan, I saw the passion collectors on the full Macallan range. and connoisseurs had for the brand, its new

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Our role has evolved from just tracking the market to becoming global treasure hunters. A tough gig… but very enjoyable!

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releases and its back catalogue. However, it’s only in recent times that we’ve seen an explosion in demand for rare whisky, as well as an increase in auction houses and brokers seeking to satisfy the opportunity. I am continually amazed at the growth in both the number of bottles coming to auction and the prices paid. It is truly staggering.

Proof – if more proof was needed – of the enduring interest in single malt Scotch.

Andy, my business partner and co-founder at Rare Whisky 101, has been tracking the market since around 2003, so we have an incredible database of over 50,000 different bottle types and 525,000 price records – the largest and most detailed price database in the world. We have a team of people who track all UK auctions; collecting price data daily and updating our database. It gives us huge insight to the market, and we publish our findings on a monthly-basis as well as producing a half- and full-year report that can be downloaded for free from our website.

Our role has evolved from just tracking the market to becoming global treasure hunters, where we are tasked with seeking-out, authenticating and valuing rare collections of bottles and casks for clients all over the world. A tough gig… but very enjoyable!

We bet. What brands do you see as auction market leaders?

From a collector’s point of view, Macallan, Ardbeg, Bowmore and Highland Park are at the top – a nice mix of regions, styles and flavours. From an investor’s perspective, Bowmore, Springbank, Brora and Glenugie are leading the current market, as well as Macallan – these are the brands most likely to increase in value.

2019 saw the sale of two record-breaking bottles of 1926 Macallan – one fetching £848,750 and the other selling for £1.2m, becoming the world’s first million-pound whisky! What is it about The Macallan that makes it so successful in this market?

How long have you got?! Macallan is known for its quality liquid, as well as the range, depth and breadth of its releases – started by the Vintage 18 Year Old and 25 Year Old releases. Macallan captured a place in the heart of its customers back in the 1980s and 1990s and this helped cement the brand as a truly iconic single malt, as well as a highly collectable whisky – led by Italian fans and more recently strengthened by demand in the US and Asia.

Aside from brands, what are the current industry trends in terms of cask, age and region?

Older is more valuable. Rare whiskies and limited releases are attractive. Sherry maturation is king – for connoisseurs, collectors and investors alike. Silent stills are in high demand, such as Port Ellen, Brora and Rosebank. Each of these distilleries are being rebuilt and resurrected; it will be fascinating to see what happens to prices in the auction market.

And aside from Scotch, do other types of whisk(e)y perform well in the rare whisky auction market?

We’re tracking the market for Irish, Taiwanese, Japanese and grain whiskies – we’re seeing emerging demand for these but from a tiny base.

Japanese whisky continues to perform well and is closest in development and demand to Scotch.

For example, the sherry-matured liquid from the silent stills of Karuizawa is highly sought after.

What are the key characteristics of a bottle of whisky likely to appreciate in value?

Rarity. We have often stated that “managing the value of scarcity” is critical – too many bottles and the price may be slow to rise. As well as this, stunning-quality liquid, fit-for-purpose packaging and a fair price. Each of these key elements will help drive interest to as broad an audience as possible.

Is the rare whisky auction market having an effect on brand prices?

Yes. What we are seeing now is that many brand owners are tracking the secondary market and using this data as a tool with which to set new release pricing. It is amusing to note that every distillery with a 40 Year Old release now tries to set it at a high release price and hope it sells, however, most brand owners forget that their brand may not have the liquid credentials nor be as sought after as the top malts.

I think many traditional retailers are now overwhelmed at the number and variety of single malts that expect to sell bottles at over £1,000!

Once you break through this price barrier, the market is small. What the market can’t lose sight of is the critical need to invite, persuade and tempt owners of the bottles to open and consume them.

The UK auction market for rare whisky has more than quadrupled since 2015 and a record £40.7m of rare whisky was sold at auction in the UK last year. Do you think this is set to continue or is there a chance it could plateau?

We think it will continue to grow. This year’s annual report reveals that international demand shows no sign of slowing. The media demand for news stories on rare whiskies remains strong and we have seen some amazing sales in recent months – we have even had The Guinness Book of World Records recognise the most valuable whisky collection! However, not every bottle from every brand will ‘win’ in the secondary market; like any sector, there will be winners and losers.

In your eyes, are there different ‘types’ of whisky collector?

We see four key buyer typologies: connoisseurs looking for brilliant-quality and delicioustasting liquid, collectors looking to add that next distillery release to their bar or display cabinet, investors looking for long-term value appreciation and flippers keen to make a fast buck! And often, a buyer is motivated by all the characteristics noted above.

Are you a whisky collector yourself?

Yes. Over the years, I’ve been lucky to be given opportunities to purchase some rare bottles of The Macallan and The Dalmore. I also collect Rosebank and Brora. My collection is small in size but seems to gain a wee bit in value most years and is becoming a nice little pension pot!

As well as bottles, Rare Whisky 101 also offer a cask brokerage service to meet an increased demand for rare whisky still held in barrels. What are the benefits of owning a cask?

There are lots of benefits! Getting hold of a whisky you love from a distillery you covet can be an amazing experience. Perhaps acquiring an unusual cask type or a whisky that marks a special date or year – these are powerful drivers for acquisition. Many of our clients are looking for 30 Year Old whiskies and older to use for gifting, drinking with friends or enjoying privately in their home bars.

Are there any risks?

With procuring a cask comes a number of risks – whisky quality, storage conditions, cask integrity and liquid losses to name a few. It’s important to point out that not all casks are made equal – many old casks are so old because the original producer and owner didn't think the liquid was good enough to bottle at 12, 15, 18, 25 years, so they have left the whisky to age and age. As well as this, it can be complex to

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design your own bottle, label and box and then arrange to have your liquid bottled and shipped – there are tonnes of hoops to jump through with HMRC and lots of rules, regulations and bureaucracy. We will only ever recommend a cask for purchase once we have assessed the liquid quality, re-gauged the cask and negotiated a fair market value price.

You’re a busy man! As well as Rare Whisky 101, you are the co-founder of Holyrood Distillery that opened up in Edinburgh this summer. Tell us a little bit about the distillery and the liquid you’re making there.

I can claim no credit for the idea – Canadians Rob and Kelly Carpenter were the originators – I was just lucky to be invited along for the ride! The Carpenters fell in love with Edinburgh back in 2004 and hankered after finding a way to create a business in the city. From this, an idea developed about resurrecting single malt whisky distilling. We agreed to join forces in the late 2000s and since found the city centre site at St Leonard’s station, developed the plans, raised a few million pounds and have now been up and running since last summer. It has been a hugely exciting, challenging and frustrating journey – all at the same time!

In terms of production, we have designed it in such a way that we are a truly flexible distillery – we can make gin, gin liqueurs and, of course, single malt whisky all on-site. We have a one

tonne system with a Lauter tun, six fermenters and a pair of small yet incredibly tall copper pot stills. We can triple distil and we’ve also added a retort tank to our spirit still to allow us to play even more flavour tunes. Our ambition is to create four key flavour styles: sweet (think chocolate malt and ex-bourbon barrels), fruity (using distiller’s, brewer’s and wine yeasts to develop lots of esters before maturing in fortified wine casks), spicy (Belgian beer yeast and ex-sherry casks) and smoky (peated malts will drive this style).

We’ve also had huge demand for our custommade cask programme, where we work with clients to design a bespoke recipe just for them; considering malts, yeasts, fermentation times, cut points for the stills and, of course, wood for maturation. I have been amazed and delighted at some of the ideas our clients have come up with – a true collaborative process!

David and Andy examining liquid quality and authenticity of some of the world's rarest and most valuable whiskies

Knowledge Bar David on drams What’s been your most memorable dram?

The Macallan 1979 18 Year Old Gran Reserva.

When working at Macallan in 1996, I was lucky to be given a blank sheet of paper and told to create a new bottling. I decided to use exclusively first-fill Spanish oak ex-sherry casks, previously filled with dry Oloroso, Amontillado, Palo Cortado and sweet sherry wines. I picked fifty butts, vatted them together and bottled the liquid, ready for launch in 1997.

What’s currently open on your spirits shelf?

I have some amazing old blends from the 1960s and 1970s (Dimple, Black & White, Johnnie Walker Red Label, Grand Old Parr) which taste fantastic, as well as some old bottlings of The Macallan distilled in the 1970s. I recently acquired some old bottles of Armagnac and Spanish brandies – and I always have some Holyrood Distillery gins on hand!

This edition’s Tour Guide is all about Glasgow – do you have a favourite drinking spot in the city?

I love The Griffin on Bath Street. It reminds me of happy times when working for Whyte & Mackay, just along the road on St. Vincent Street.

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Distillery Visit

In fine fettle

Gavin Smith pays a visit to one of the Highland distillery scene’s most hidden gems, Fettercairn.

Knowledge Bar Fettercairn through the years

1824

Fettercairn distillery is opened by Sir Alexander Ramsay.

1829

The Fasque estate is sold to Sir John Gladstone, father of four-times UK Prime Minister William Gladstone who goes on to abolish taxes on malt and Angels’ Share.

1861

Queen Victoria and her husband Albert sneak away from nearby Balmoral to visit Fettercairn incognito. The villagers later raise a monument to commemorate the visit – the arch which still stands in the centre of the village today.

1887

Fettercairn distillery is almost totally destroyed by a fire and does not reopen until 1890.

1926

The distillery closes its doors.

1939

Production recommences under ownership of Associated Scottish Distillers.

1950s

Distillery manager, Alistair Menzies, designs unique cooling rings to create a purer expression – a design now associated with Fettercairn’s stills and spirit.

1952

Menzies’ original cooling ring design is added to Fettercairn’s No.1 spirit still – a solution that remains unique in Scotch whisky-making to this day.

If you were going to paint a picture of a classic Highland distillery it might very well look a lot like Fettercairn. The buildings are traditional in design, whitewashed, with dark slate roofs, and there is a ‘pagoda’ on top of the old kiln. The distillery stands quietly on the outskirts of Fettercairn village, surrounded by grazing cattle and sheep, and growing crops, while in the background the lower slopes of the Cairngorm mountains rise into the distance.

Fettercairn is situated in the county of Aberdeenshire, halfway between Dundee and Aberdeen, but five miles off the busy A90 dual carriageway that connects the two cities. As such, the whisky it produces is classified as a Highland single malt. Like most Scottish distilleries today, it is not locally owned, but part of Glasgow-based Whyte & Mackay, which also includes Dalmore, Jura and Tamnavulin malt whisky distilleries in its portfolio. Whyte & Mackay in turn belongs to Philippines brandy specialist Emperador Inc. Yet Fettercairn is managed by Stewart Walker, who was born and bred in the village, and who has now served 30 years at the distillery, while many of the workforce also boast long service.

Fettercairn is very much ‘their’ distillery. origins Its history dates back to 1824, when it was converted from a former corn mill by local landowner Sir Alexander Ramsay. The area was rife with illicit distilling in the early 19th century, and it is said that Ramsay recruited formerly illicit whisky-makers to operate his

new venture, which was first licensed to James Stewart & Co. the following year.

In 1830, Ramsay sold his Fasque Estate, including the distillery, to Sir John Gladstone, father of the future four-times British Prime Minister, William Ewart Gladstone. The distillery effectively remained in the hands of the Gladstone family until its closure in 1926, subsequently being purchased by Ben Nevis owner Joseph Hobbs’ Associated Scottish Distillers Ltd. in 1939.

The whisky ‘boom’ of the 1960s saw the complement of stills at Fettercairn doubled to four in 1966 and five years later the distillery was acquired by the TomintoulGlenlivet Distillery Co Ltd. In 1973, Tomintoul-Glenlivet was purchased by Whyte & Mackay and Fettercairn has been in their hands ever since. single malt While attention was lavished on the company’s Dalmore and Jura single malt brands, Fettercairn had a much lower profile, being used primarily for blending purposes, most notably in the Whyte & Mackay ‘house’ blend. However, a decade ago, a serious attempt was made to give Fettercairn a credible single malt presence, with the introduction of 24, 30 and 40 Year Old expressions, followed by the non age statement Fasque and Fior (Gaelic for ‘pure’ or ‘true’), which replaced the previous 12 Year Old. Fior comprised a significant amount of 14 and 15 Year Old spirit, along with 15 per cent

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❛ Character is influenced by a feature unique to Fettercairn; namely the presence of ‘cooling rings’ on the spirit stills…Alistair Menzies was the manager in the early 1950s, and he was looking for a lighter, more floral note in the whisky. He designed the cooling rings to get that effect.

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heavily-peated 5 Year Old whisky from first-fill bourbon barrels.

Now, however, Fettercairn is in the middle of a new and dynamic chapter in its long history, with the previous range being superseded during 2018 by a 12 Year Old and a 28 Year Old, along with limited quantities of 40 and 50 Year Old expressions.

Andrew Lennie is UK Brand Specialist for Fettercairn, and joined the team a few months ago, having previously worked as Brand Ambassador for Fife start-up distillery Lindores. “This is a bit like starting with another new distillery,” he says, “as Fettercairn has previously really not had that much exposure.

It’s a hidden gem.”

The choice of 12 and 28 Year Old bottlings for the new Fettercairn range might seem slightly strange, but Lennie points out that “Fettercairn has always been used a lot for blending, and it happens that we have a lack of stock between those two ages. However, we are bringing out a 16 Year Old that had been distilled using chocolate malt and finished in a mix of sherry and port casks, plus a 23 Year Old travel retail exclusive and some limited releases this year.

We have a treasure trove of old stock, with the oldest cask having been filled in 1962. In total, we have some 30,000 casks maturing in 14 warehouses at the distillery.

“The 12 Year Old is a great introduction to the brand and makes a really refreshing highball.

Both that and the 28 Year Old reflect the newmake character – fresh and vibrant, with tropical fruits, while there’s Turkish Delight and something slightly savoury in the 28.”

Reflecting the “treasure trove of old stock” noted by Lennie, just 818 bottles of 40 Year Old – distilled on 23rd December 1977 – have been released, after spending 35 years in Bourbon casks, then five years in Apostoles sherry casks. There are a mere 234 bottles of the 50 Year Old – distilled on 11th June 1966 – which was matured for 45 years in a bourbon cask, before spending a final five years in a port pipe. distillery character While the distillery previously produced an amount of peated spirit each year, principally for blending purposes, no peated malt has been used for the past seven years. The peated Fior was previously one of the brand’s two principal products, however distillery manager Stewart Walker says that “I don’t think Fettercairn is associated with peat, it’s not really what it’s about. We’re concentrating now on the distillery character.”

That character is influenced by a feature unique to Fettercairn; namely the presence of ‘cooling rings’ on the spirit stills. As Walker explains “The cooling ring pours cold spring water onto the head of the still, and it creates reflux.

The light, floral notes pass over, while the heavier

molecules fall back at the change of temperature.

Effectively, it gives you more copper contact.

“Alistair Menzies was the manager in the early 1950s, and he was looking for a lighter, more floral note in the whisky. He designed the cooling rings to get that effect. I imagine he experimented by having guys with hosepipes pouring water onto the stills and noting what the spirit nosed and tasted like from those distillations. Then he had the distillery engineer attach a copper ring around the still with holes drilled in it, allowing water to pass down.

The original from 1952 is still in use on No.1 spirit still today, and a copy was fitted to No.2 spirit still when the distillery was doubled in capacity during 1965/66 with the introduction of a second pair of stills.”

Not surprisingly, given their uniqueness, the cooling rings feature heavily in promotional material relating to the current Fettercairn range, and the spirit stills are not lacquered and gleaming, but proudly bear the stains of water contact, which creates an attractive patina on the copper. Even the presentation alludes to the cooling rings, with the bottle design having a ‘ring’ bulge on the neck and a representation of the effect of water running down the glass. It also boasts the unicorn crest of the Ramsay clan, which is prominently displayed at the distillery itself.

Along with the cooling rings, another feature affecting the character of Fettercairn single malt is an increase in fermentation times,

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In the 1860s, Fettercairn's villagers erected a monument to commemorate the secret visit of Queen Victoria and her husband Albert to their quiet distillery town

which came about as a result of a major 2015 distillery upgrade programme. During this, a new tun room was created, allowing for the existing eight Oregon pine washbacks to be supplemented by three more. The extra capacity allowed fermentation times to be lengthened from the previous 48 hours – actually, the minimum viable time – to 56 hours, with the option of 60 hours if desired.

Stewart Walker explains the positive effect this development has had. “We’re getting more consistent spirit than previously,” he says.

“Working with 56-hour fermentations means you don’t get the unfermented sugars that might otherwise stick to the heating coils in the still, meaning it takes longer to heat the wash at times.”

Spirit character has also been influenced in recent years by the replacement in 2009 of stainless-steel condensers on the stills, fitted some 14 years earlier, by more conventional copper-based ones. The effect of introducing, or reintroducing, more copper into the system in this way has been to lighten and sweeten the new-make spirit.

maturation The spirit begins its life in Fettercairn’s ‘old-school’ cast iron mash tun, which came second-hand from Glenugie distillery at Peterhead when it closed in the 1980s. A copper canopy was added, and it was lined with stainless steel for easier cleaning.

Twenty-four mashes are processed each week, and the distillery has a theoretical capacity of 2.2mla, though at present annual output stands at 1.5mla.

When it comes to maturation, Stewart Walker explains that “The bulk of the new-make goes into first-fill bourbon casks, but we’re also looking at putting it into different casks from the start and finishing it in a variety of casks. There’s lots of experimentation going on under Gregg Glass [Blender and Whisky Maker at Whyte & Mackay], who is a very innovative guy. The importance of wood is massive for Gregg, and he’s having a lot of influence on what we’re doing at Fettercairn.”

He adds that “The company saw a real gap in its single malts portfolio with Fettercairn. We’re sitting on a variety of old whiskies. Each brand has its own unique character and style, and of course their own story. With Dalmore the story is principally about wood, and with Fettercairn it’s about production. Fettercairn is a premium whisky that sits between the Dalmore and Jura ranges.”

The distillery attracts around 5,000 visitors each year, and in 2020 there will be an as yet undisclosed distillery-exclusive bottling to reward those making the trip to Fettercairn, while the distillery also sells the travel retail exclusive 12 Year Old expression, finished for 12 to 24 months in a Pedro Ximénez sherry cask. Additionally, there are outline plans to convert the old Customs & Excise office that remains in one of the warehouses into a bottle-your-own venue.”

Stewart Walker declares that “You can do so much with Fettercairn, it’s an extremely versatile whisky, and these are very exciting times for the distillery and the brand.”

Win a bottle of Fettercairn 16 Year Old! Competition 5

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Mixing It Up

Highland fling

Edrington’s Whisky Specialist, Teddy Joseph, knows how to enjoy his Highland Park whisky – especially in a cocktail.

Photography Christina Kernohan.

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————————————————————————————————— Showcasing whiskies from the Highland Park portfolio, Teddy’s alternative twists on classic cocktails teach us how to sip our whisky a little differently this spring.

For more whisky cocktail inspiration, follow Teddy on Instagram (@superted54), as well as Highland Park (@highlandparkofficial).

————————————————————————————————— ➊ | highland park x esquire 15 year old single cask 50ml Highland Park x Esquire 15 Year Old Single Cask — Method: Serve neat with water on the side.

Glass: Rocks glass To celebrate the annual Esquire Townhouse event, Highland Park and Esquire collaborated to create Highland Park x Esquire 15 Year Old Single Cask.

Distilled in 2003 and matured in a single first-fill American oak butt for 15 years, this special edition expression was then bottled at natural cask strength and is available exclusively at The Whisky Shop, limited to just 585 bottles! In order to appreciate its uniqueness and individuality, I recommend simply enjoying this whisky neat with water on the side.

————————————————————————————————— ➋ | boulevardier 30ml Highland Park Valfather 30ml Campari 30ml Sweet Vermouth — Method: Stir over ice in mixing glass and strain into glass.

Glass: Coupette Garnish: Orange twist This classic cocktail is a favourite of mine, which has enjoyed quite a renaissance in recent years due to the popularity of the Negroni. Although the Boulevardier normally uses bourbon, I chose to substitute bourbon for a single malt: Highland Park Valfather. The most peated whisky we have released to date, Highland Park Valfather is matured entirely in refill casks to give beautifully balanced layers of flavour and character. Its impressive depth of flavour stands up well to the rich flavours of Campari and sweet vermouth while also offering notes of pear, cedar wood and creme brûlée. An easy crowd pleaser.

————————————————————————————————— ➌ | cherry chocolate old fashioned 50ml Highland Park 18 Year Old 7ml Luxardo Maraschino Cherry Syrup 2 Dashes Chocolate Bitters — Method: Stir all ingredients over ice in a mixing glass, strain over fresh ice in glass.

Glass: Rocks glass Garnish: Orange twist / Luxardo cherry The Old Fashioned is one of the most popular cocktails in the world and a great vehicle to showcase the quality of your chosen spirit; in this instance, I decided to put Highland Park 18 Year Old behind the wheel! Named ‘Best Spirit in the World’ in the Spirit Journal on two separate occasions, this single malt is a perfect expression of harmony, complexity and refinement. My addition of chocolate bitters and use of cherry syrup highlight notes of dark chocolate, cherries and marzipan inherent within the whisky.

———————————————————————————————— ➍ | new york sour 50ml Highland Park Twisted Tattoo 25ml Lemon Juice 12.5ml Sugar Syrup 1 dash Orange Bitters Dash Egg White Red Wine Float — Method: Shake all (except red wine) in cocktail shaker over ice. Strain into ice filled glass. Float red wine on the surface.

Glass: Rocks glass Garnish: Lemon twist

————————————————————————————————— ➎ | orcadian cooler 50ml Highland Park Valknut 20ml Lemon Juice 20ml Elderflower Cordial Soda Water Top — Method: Build and stir in glass over ice.

Top with soda.

Glass: Highball Garnish: Orange wheel Highland Park Valknut is the main attraction in this long, refreshing cocktail. This whisky is part of our Viking Legend series, which celebrates our rich Nordic ancestry on Orkney, and is made using a higher proportion of our local peated malt. I used elderflower cordial in this cocktail to accentuate the floral notes that exist in this whisky, thanks to the use of our aromatic peat smoke.

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Originating in the 1880s, this classic cocktail was (surprisingly) created by a Chicago bartender before achieving popularity across the Manhattan bar scene. This serve features a red wine float, so Highland Park Twisted Tattoo was the obvious choice for me to use – a 16 Year Old single malt matured in Spanish Rioja wine-seasoned casks (a distillery first!) and first-fill bourbon casks.

The result is a delicious sour that enhances notes of summer berries, sweet vanilla and light peat smoke in the whisky.

Knowledge Bar Featured Highland Park Products Highland Park Valknut | 46.8% VOL | £58 Highland Park Valfather | 47% VOL | £60 Highland Park Twisted Tattoo | 46.7% VOL | £80 Highland Park 18 Year Old | 43% VOL | £110 Highland Park x Esquire 15 Year Old Single Cask | 60.3% VOL | £200

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➊ — Hot Honey Blossom Cider

HIGHLAND PARK X ESQUIRE 15 YEAR OLD SINGLE CASK

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BOULEVARDIER

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CHERRY CHOCOLATE OLD FASHIONED

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NEW YORK SOUR

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ORCADIAN COOLER

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My Whiskeria

Rabbit in the spotlight With craft beer booming and natural wine gaining even more momentum, Frightened Rabbit drummer Grant Hutchison is swapping his sticks for small-batch cider. — Photography: Brian Sweeney

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My Whiskeria After losing his brother and bandmate, Scott, Grant Hutchison was faced with a loss of identity and the need for a new direction.

A cider enthusiast with a love for the innovative, complex and interesting, Grant has made it his mission to share the ciders he enjoys, with drinkers around the UK. We met up with Grant at one of his favourite Glasgow bars, Vin-Cru, to chat about his move from music to setting up his cider distribution company, re:stalk.

Knowledge Bar Grant’s top 5 Frightened Rabbit songs Candlelit The Woodpile, 2013 The Oil Slick Pedestrian Verse, 2013 Go Go Girls Sing the Greys, 2006 Acts Of Man Pedestrian Verse, 2013 My Backwards Walk The Midnight Organ Fight, 2008 —

Above: Grant Hutchison drumming during Frightened Rabbit gig © Samantha Saturday

Congratulations on the launch of re:stalk! Have you always been interested in moving into the drinks industry?

Starting re:stalk was something I had been thinking about for the last few years, knowing that Frightened Rabbit wasn’t going to last forever. Even before Scott died, I knew there would be an end to the band at some point.

Being in your twenties and living on a tour bus with your bandmates is fun, but not as you get older! We’re all at the stage of settling down with families so I knew I had to have something else up my sleeve. In the early days of the band I worked part-time in a whisky shop in Glasgow – that’s where I discovered my love for whisky and the food and drinks industry in general.

who travels the world educating people about cider. There’s an understanding in this industry that we all have a common goal: at the end of the day, we all want more people to drink good stuff.

The business side of things is a huge a learning curve for me. Scott’s death and the sudden end of the band meant I had to put the wheels in motion quite quickly with re:stalk.

It forced me to sit down, write a business plan, apply for a loan and think about how I actually wanted to do this. For a long time, my plan was to run the two alongside each other, but, on reflection, there was no way I could have done that. I’m glad I can give re:stalk my full attention.

And what about cider – when did you first discover a taste for it?

My cider interest grew from touring the US with the band. It’s really starting to happen with cider over there. When we were there, I was exposed to so many different varieties and styles of cider; different ways of drinking it and presenting it. I’d come back to the UK and, unless you live in Bristol or London, there wasn’t really anything like it. I want to be able to drink the cider I like in any bar I go into, and I want more people to discover it. So, I thought: ok, how do I do this?

When it comes to production, cider makers across the board are ‘progressing by regressing’. In your eyes, what makes a cider natural?

I would describe natural cider as cider made with wild yeasts and as little intervention as possible. Wild yeasts, meaning the yeasts that are present in the juice, in the vessel and in the air. Sulphites may be added, but just enough to ensure the juice doesn't spoil. Once the cider is fermented, no sugar, water or flavours should be added and only a coarse filtration would normally be used.

The ciders that I’m selling are something new and different. I’m working with cider makers who marry the science and art of making cider in a way that comes out with something really interesting, complex and refined. It’s amazing that cider can have the same refinement as wine.

Is it exciting to start in an entirely new industry? Are there challenges?

It was hugely exciting and pretty terrifying to launch re:stalk. We built up Frightened Rabbit as a group, whereas there’s no one else to fall back on with re:stalk – it’s just me.

That’s liberating but also quite scary. However, the drinks industry is so friendly, and people are genuinely happy to help. I’m hugely grateful to Gabe Cook who took me under his wing and really encouraged me to get started in the industry. He’s a self-proclaimed ‘ciderologist’

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It’s great to see the passion you have for the industry and your products – how do you plan on spreading the word about your ciders?

I’m trying to do as many tastings as I can and I’m planning another supper club – pairing cider with food is something I’m really interested in. An important thing for me is educating the bar staff who stock the ciders.

People in the drinks industry are always looking for something new and different and I’ve had a fantastic response to my ciders so far. I hope their excitement for the products will, in turn, trickle down to customers. I’m also looking to join a few wine fairs and get the ciders at some music festivals over summer. I would love to put a cider festival on in Scotland at some point in the future.

How should your ciders be enjoyed?

The majority of my ciders would be presented, served and drunk like a wine.

The ABV tends to sit between beer and wine, so you could share a bottle during an evening.

Cider is still viewed as a summer drink which I’d like to see a bit of change around. The ciders that are made with highly tannic apples have a flavour profile quite comparable with a Speyside whisky. They are spicy with notes of stewed fruit and cloves and you’d drink them at room temperature or just below. You would sip them by the fire. That’s definitely how I like to enjoy some of the ciders I drink.

That’s interesting, cider being like whisky…

You can draw a lot of comparisons between cider and whisky. A couple of my ciders, like Pulpt Union and Little Pomona, are West Country tannic ciders; if you strip the alcohol away from a Speyside, they’d be quite similar.

You get an occasional smokiness from them as well. And then there’s Root & Branch, the cider I have on draft. It’s been aged in bourbon barrels, giving it hints of smoke, wood and vanilla. Working in a whisky shop when I was younger has really helped train my palate for tasting ciders.

Sounds delicious! What do you think the future holds for cider in the UK? Do you see urban cideries popping up, mirroring the craft beer uprising?

I see cider taking a chunk out of the craft beer market in terms of fridge space and what’s on offer in off licenses. Setting up a cidery is a lot easier than setting up a brewery or distillery, so yes, I can see more and more cideries opening in the UK. There’s already about five up here in Scotland.

The reason the South West is known for its cider production is because of the terroir – the trees have been there for hundreds of

years – but apple trees are pretty hardy so you could plant them almost anywhere and they’ll survive. Eve’s, for example, is from upstate New York which is covered in snow during the winter. Terroir is being discussed more and more in cider, and it will be exciting to see what effect terroir in different regions has on the final flavour.

You’ve lived in Glasgow for 16 years. What makes this city such a great place to launch re:stalk in?

Glaswegians are so receptive to new things and they seem genuinely interested in where their food and drink comes from and how it’s made. I guess not just in Glasgow but in the whole of Scotland. Because of our whisky heritage, people seem to have a particular interest in what they drink. Glasgow is just kind of real. It’s a bit rough around the edges and I really like that about it.

What are your favourite spots in the city for eating and drinking?

I’m vegan so I love going to Stereo for a drink and something to eat; The Hug and Pint is great as well. For drinks, I love Stravaigin, The Allison Arms and The Belle. There’s a great Malaysian restaurant in the Southside called Julie’s Kopitiam.

Apart from cider, what else are you drinking? Any favourite drams?

Balvenie 12 Year Old DoubleWood is my absolute favourite dram. The Caribbean Cask is really nice as well. I’ve been getting into some sour beers recently – they have quite a lot of similarities to cider. I can’t get enough of orange wine at the moment. It’s quite funky and has the same kind of tropical nose that you get with cider.

And what about music? Are you giving up the sticks for good?

I don’t know yet, actually. I don’t think I’ll give up drumming for good. Professionally?

Probably. For ten years, my identity was ‘Grant from Frightened Rabbit’ and when Scott died, I kind of lost that overnight. Finding my own identity again was something I really had to work at and now that I’ve found it, it’s quite nice that it’s not directly linked to music. All my friends are still in music and I’ll always have an interest in it, but certainly in a less professional way. I look forward to enjoying music and going to gigs in the way I used to.

For anyone unfamiliar with Frightened Rabbit, can you describe the band’s style of music?

I always use the term ‘miserabilist’. Moany Scottish music, but with a glimmer of hope!

Frightened Rabbit was Scott. I think everyone was really drawn to Scott’s honesty and openness in his lyrics. When people listened to our songs, they felt like they were in the pub with him having a drink. Since he died, there has been a huge outpouring of grief, but also support for each other in the Frightened Rabbit community. That totally blew me away. I knew how much Scott and the band meant to people before, but I didn’t quite realise how deep it went. It’s been heartbreaking but also amazing to see, and it’s something I think Scott would have been proud of – that he brought people together. He spoke to people through his music.

Which of the band’s lyrics mean the most to you?

I always liked the outro to The Oil Slick: “We’ve still got hope so I think we’ll be fine, in these disastrous times.”

“You’re the shit and I’m knee deep in it” is also one of the best lines I’ve ever heard. That was one people shouted back to us; Scott didn’t even need to sing that line after a while.

I think Scott was one of the best lyricists ever. It’s bittersweet, but I feel so lucky that I’ll get to play our songs to my kids one day and they’ll be able to know what kind of person he was and what we did together.

What’s your most memorable Frightened Rabbit gig?

Any of the Barrowlands shows that we did.

It’s one of my favourite places in the world.

The noise in there is just crazy, spine-tingling.

I went to a load of gigs there growing up, and finally being on the other side of the stage was just incredible.

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� I’m working with cider makers who marry the science and art of making cider in a way that comes out with something really interesting, complex and refined.

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You and your family set up Tiny Changes in memory of Scott. Can you tell us a bit about the charity and how people can get involved?

The idea for Tiny Changes came pretty soon after Scott's death – as a family, we felt that something good had to come out of this tragedy and that something had to be done to change the way people approach mental health and the issues surrounding it. We decided the focus should be on young people as it felt like the area where we could make the biggest impact.

2020 is going to be a great year for the charity: we’re launching a small grants programme where people can apply for funding for projects that promote positive mental health in young people. You can donate and fundraise by visiting our JustGiving page and you can contact us via our website if you'd like to help in any other way. We’re keen to keep community and togetherness at the heart of what we do.

What else does 2020 have in store for you?

My wife Jaye and I are having a baby in March, so I’ve got to sell a shit load of cider!

I’ll hopefully be bringing on board a few more cider brands. I’ve got some great ciders from the UK, so I think I want to concentrate more on importing – especially from the US because there’s so much happening there. I’d also like to bring in a canned cider for summer.

Having gone through what I have, and having seen what happened to Scott, I’m very conscious of life being the important factor.

I’ve got to make money to support my family, but I have to be present, mentally fit and healthy. I do hope that’s what re:stalk allows me to do – that I’ll get to a point where I’m making a living but I’m happy, I’m present and have access to great cider!

Discover the full range of Grant’s ciders at www.restalkcider.com.

Learn more about Tiny Changes at www.tinychanges.com.

Knowledge Bar Ten ciders recommended by Grant Production Notes

Food Pairings

Avantgarde

Made with organic Cox Orange, Aroma and Rubinola apples, matured in oak for 10 months.

Pork & sage, green leaf salad, roasted almonds

Björk

Made using organic Cox Orange apples, macerated in birch leaves for a month and matured in oak barrels for 4 months.

Seafood, panna cotta, pear salad

Lera

Pomologik, Sweden

Made using wild apples, wild-fermented and aged in Burgundy barrels for 10 months.

Blue cheese, fruit cake, fish & chips

Gravenstein Ice Ice Baby

A blended cider using Gravenstein apples.

Apple crumble, vanilla ice cream, mild curry

Volatil

Made by rehydrating and fermenting pomace from a previous press; aged in oak for 4 months.

Chorizo, bacon rolls, parmesan

Brut 2016

Made using traditional methods used by Champagne makers in France; naturally carbonated.

Oysters, focaccia, lemon & caper linguini

Albee Hill 2017

A wild-fermented, organic cider made with a blend of 14 different apple varieties.

Light pesto dishes, mussels

Darling Creek 2017

Wild fermentation is followed by secondary fermentation in the bottle to create natural carbonation.

Serrano ham, smoked cheese, Christmas pudding

Autumn's Gold 2017 Eve's, New York, USA

Made with a higher percentage of bittersweet apples, giving a drier, smokier punch.

Roast ham, Moroccan tagine

Union

Big, bold and tannic: awarded gold in the International Cider Awards.

Haggis, sticky toffee pudding

Level

Made from a blend of Dabinett and Yarlington Mill apples to create a sweet, full-bodied and fruity cider.

Burger, sausage bap

Verve

A fresh, floral and delicate cider, made with a blend of bittersweet and bittersharp apples.

Summer salad, sorbet

Pomologik, Sweden

Pomologik, Sweden

Pomologik, Sweden

Pomologik, Sweden

Gospel Green, England

Eve's, New York, USA

Eve's, New York, USA

Pulpt, England

Pulpt, England

Pulpt, England

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❛ Finding my own identity again was something I really had to work at and now that I’ve found it, it’s quite nice that it’s not directly linked to music.

Cover Look – Bomber Jacket, John Lewis Polo Neck, Reiss Jeans, Rabbie Denim Look 1 – Jumper, La Fetiche Anorak, Rains Hat, H&M Look 2 – Jumper, Paul Smith Look 3 – Shirt, Urban Outfitters

Look 4 – Cardigan, Eleventy Look 5 – Zip Jumper, Paul Smith Stylist: Ian Tod Photo Assistant: Fabio Rebelo Paiva Venue: Vin-Cru, Merchant City, Glasgow

THE LIVING CASKÂŽ will never die and will always be an evolution of its Islay origins. Every batch we craft is different, meaning each intriguing expression is a limited edition release, and part of an ongoing series that is as collectable as it is delicious.

Inveraray Main St. | Inveraray | Argyll | PA32 8UD | +44 (0)149 930 2219 | EDINBURGH 36 Cockburn St. | EH1 1PB | +44 (0)131 226 2134 e: info@lochfynewhiskies.com | www.lochfynewhiskies.com | also available at The Whisky Shop

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The Joys of Spring Spring 2020

+ The Whisky Shop Exclusives + Mother's Day + St. Patrick's Day + Customer Favourites + Spirit of Speyside Festival + Campbeltown Malts Festival

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The Whisky Shop Exclusives We’re proud to stock a selection of whiskies exclusive to The Whisky Shop. From limited edition bottlings to old and rare whiskies, single cask single malts to singularly superb blends, these whiskies are for our customers only.

Maker's Mark Private Select Batch 3

Highland Park Esquire

Old Pulteney#1448 2006 Single Cask

70cl | 54.4 % VOL | £85

70cl | 60.3% VOL | £200

70cl | 51.4% VOL | £99

This limited edition single barrel bourbon from Maker's Mark is the third release from our series of one-off cask bottlings, carefully selected by our team of experts.

Taking inspiration from the process used to create Maker's 46, this Kentucky bourbon has been matured in a barrel made from a bespoke selection of different wooden staves.

Highland Park and Esquire have collaborated to create this unique expression, exclusive to The Whisky Shop. Distilled in 2003 and matured in a single first-fill American oak cask for 15 years, this limited edition has been bottled at a natural cask strength of 60.3% VOL, with notes of heather, honey and aromatic smoky peat.

Distilled in 2006 and matured for more than a decade in cask #1448, this single malt from Old Pulteney was selected for bottling in 2019 as a limited edition exclusively for members of The W Club. Only 276 bottles have been filled, each one presented at a natural cask strength of 51.4% VOL.

Limited release Kentucky bourbon — Selected by our team of experts — Tropical fruit; pine; brown sugar

Single cask Island single malt — Limited to just 585 bottles — Butter; vanilla; lingering sweetness

The W Club Exclusive — Limited to just 276 bottles — Ripe apple; creamy chocolate; vanilla

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WhistlePig Single Barrel Rye#72177 10 Year Old Cask

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BenRiach 12 Year Old 2005 Single Cask #5279

70cl | 55.7% VOL | £125

70cl | 56% VOL | £85

Made using the farm's own grain, water and custom Vermont white oak casks, this 10 Year Old American rye whiskey has been specially selected from the WhistlePig distillery and bottled for The Whisky Shop as an exclusive for our customers.

With notes of soft caramel, candyfloss and delicate spice – this expression is a must-have for any sweet tooth!

Drawn from cask #5279 and bottled at cask strength, this Speyside single malt is exclusively available to The Whisky Shop customers. A limited release of just 553 bottles, this particular expression is packed with a rich, fruity sweetness. Think rhubarb crumble, fresh oak and raisins.

Single cask Speyside single malt — Limited to just 553 bottles — Red liquorice; rich toffee; plum pudding

Featured in Charlie MacLean’s ‘New Releases’ — Limited to just 130 bottles — Melted dark chocolate; bakewell tart; ripe figs

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St. Patrick's Day Named after Ireland’s patron saint, St. Patrick’s Day is a holiday that demands revelry and celebration of all things Irish – so much so, even Irish Catholics are excused from Lenten restrictions on 17th March. Raise a glass alongside them with a few of our favourite drams from the Emerald Isle.

Bushmills 21 Year Old

Redbreast Family Collection

Peaky Blinder

70cl | 40% VOL | £160

3x5cl | various % VOL | £25

70cl | 40% VOL | £29

This single malt Irish whiskey is distilled at Northern Ireland's Bushmills Distillery, claimed to be the world's oldest licensed distillery. Matured in a mix of Oloroso sherry casks and bourbonseasoned casks for more than 18 years, the liquid is then finished in Madeira wine casks, offering rich notes of dates, pecans and mango.

Combining three award-winning expressions from Redbreast Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey, this gift pack offers a great introduction to whiskey styles from the Emerald Isle. The pack offers a taste of Redbreast’s 12 Year Old, 15 Year Old and Lustau Edition whiskies.

Namesake of the notorious Birmingham street gang that operated throughout the 1900s, this small-batch blended Irish whiskey has been triple-distilled in County Cork and finished in sherry casks before being bottled at 40% VOL. With balanced fruit and spice, this is just the tipple to enjoy alongside a dark Irish stout.

Triple cask Irish single malt — Finished in Madeira wine casks — Tropical fruits; honey; touch of coconut

A trio of 5cl serves — A perfect introduction to Irish whiskey — Includes 3x single pot still whiskies

A blend of grain and single malt Irish whiskey — Bottle can be personalised with an engraving — Melted chocolate; apricots; raisins

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Yellow Spot

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Proper No. Twelve

The Sexton

Tullamore D.E.W 12 Year Old

70cl | 46% VOL | £89

70cl | 40% VOL | £29

70cl | 40% VOL | £35

70cl | 40% VOL | £61

Created and sold by Mitchell & Son Wine and Spirit Merchants, this 12 Year Old single pot still whiskey is made using three different cask types – American bourbon barrels, Spanish sherry butts and Spanish Malaga casks – resulting in a superbly complex whiskey.

This triple-distilled blended Irish whiskey is the brainchild of UFC star Conor McGregor and produced in collaboration with former Bushmills Distillery Manager, David Elder – the pair sampled nearly 100 blends before deciding upon the liquid in the bottle. Sweet and floral on the nose, the palate brings apple and honey, followed by a punch(!) of white pepper.

A creation of Master Blender Alex Thomas, The Sexton single malt Irish whiskey is made from 100% Irish malted barley and tripledistilled in copper pot stills, before maturing in Oloroso sherry casks sourced form Jerez de la Frontera in Spain. Bottled at 40% VOL, expect notes of chocolate, raisin and honeycomb, and a smooth finish.

A triple-distilled blend of all three types of Irish whiskey but with a high proportion of pot still and malt whiskeys, this expression is matured in a combination of bourbon and sherry casks for 12 to 15 years. A very fine aged whiskey with great complexity.

Named after Dublin 12, the area where Conor McGregor grew up — Bottle can be personalised with an engraving — Vanilla pod; toasted oak; caramel

Single pot still Irish whiskey — Unusual triple cask blend — Stewed fruit; caramel; cereal spice

Irish single malt — Aged in sherry casks sourced form Jerez — Dried fruit; nuts; honeycomb

Matured in bourbon and sherry casks — Named after Daniel E. Williams — Creamy vanilla; sherry; sweet fruit

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Mother's Day We are of the firm belief that mums should spend this day with their feet up and favourite tipple in hand.

Discover our selection of special gifts, beautiful glassware and personalised items that will really make her day.

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Roku Gin with Gift Carton

The Macallan 12 Year Old Sherry Oak

Silent Pool Gin Gift Pack

70cl | 43% VOL | £35

70cl | 40% VOL | £75

70cl | 43% VOL | £67

This gin takes its name from the Japanese word for 'six', representing the six uniquely Japanese botanicals that set this spirit apart: yuzu peel, sakura flower, sakura leaf, sencha tea, gyokuro tea and sansho pepper.

Harvested in accordance with 'shun' – the moment of peak flavour – they’re then blended together with eight traditional gin botanicals.

A deliciously smooth Macallan single malt, this rich and well-rounded whisky has been described by F. Paul Pacult as “simply the best 12 Year Old single malt around”. This expression has plenty of sherry cask influence which is perfectly balanced with woodsmoke and spice. Add your own Mother’s Day message to the bottle with our personalised engraving service.

A beautiful gift set from Silent Pool Distillers, featuring a full 70cl bottle of their awardwinning Silent Pool Gin and two copa-style glasses, decorated with gold foil and a distinctive aquamarine coloured stem.

Harris Tweed Hip Flask 6oz | £15

Aged in sherry casks sourced from Jerez — Bottle can be personalised with an engraving — Tropical fruit; golden syrup; marmalade

A timeless gift, this hip flask is made by Glen Appin of Scotland and is crafted with genuine Harris Tweed straight from the Outer Hebridean island. Available in four different tartan styles, this flask will hold 170ml of your mum’s favourite dram.

Made with genuine Harris Tweed — Available in four tartan styles — Perfect for spring walks

Made by The House of Suntory — Complete with luxury gift carton — Green tea; cherry blossom; black pepper

Full bottle and two branded glasses — Award-winning gin — Fresh florals; earthy citrus; honeyed finish

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The Nikka 12 Year Old

The Loch Fyne Gin & Liqueur Taster Pack

Jura 12 Year Old Gift Pack

Caorunn Scottish Raspberry Gin

70cl | 43% VOL | £130

3x5cl | various% VOL | £22

70cl | 40% VOL | £45

50cl | 41.8% VOL | £26

The product of two distilleries, Yoichi and Miyagikyo, The Nikka 12 Year Old uses more malt whiskies than grain whiskies in its formula, resulting in an expression that is malty and rich, with notes of green apple, rich fruitcake and butterscotch. The liquid is presented in a bottle that takes its design from the neckline of a kimono, representing the many layers of Nikka’s heritage. A personal Mother’s Day message can be added to this bottle as an engraving.

A trio of gin and liqueurs from The Loch Fyne range, presented in an attractive gift box – the perfect present for mums who relish exploring new and exciting flavours! The taster pack includes a 5cl bottle of The Loch Fyne Botanical Gin, Honey & Ginger Liqueur and Chocolate & Orange Liqueur.

Maturation in American white oak ex-bourbon barrels before being finished in Oloroso sherry casks gives this 12 Year Old single malt a rich and rounded taste. The liquid is the perfect balance of sweet and smoky and the bottle looks the part – presented in a handsome gift box, complete with two branded whisky glasses.

Caorunn Raspberry Gin infuses Perthshire raspberries with five locally foraged botanicals and six traditional gin botanicals. A fresh and vibrant gin, with soft vanilla on the nose and bursts of fruit on the palate. Best served with tonic and garnished with raspberries, of course.

A trio of 5cl serves — Inspired by customers of Loch Fyne Whiskies in Inveraray — Includes 1x gin and 2x liqueurs

Award-winning Japanese blend — Bottle can be personalised with an engraving — Dark chocolate; fruitcake; honey

Full bottle and two branded glasses — Island single malt — Chocolate; fruity; walnut

Distilled in the Cairngorms at Balmenach Distillery — Made in the world's only working Copper Berry Chamber — Vanilla; fruity; floral

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Spirit of Speyside Festival

Benromach 10 Year Old

Each year, thousands of visitors flock to Scotland’s largest whisky region to discover the people and the processes behind Speyside’s world-revered whiskies. Whether you’re seeking a memento from your time there, or want to experience the festival from home, these drams have got you sorted.

Glenfiddich Grand Cru 23 Year Old

The Macallan 12 Year Old Triple Cask

70cl | 43% VOL | £45

70cl | 40% VOL | £220

70cl | 40% VOL | £70

Described as 'the classic Speyside single malt Scotch whisky', Benromach 10 Year Old was first matured in a combination of bourbon and sherry casks for nine years, before being finished in sherry casks for a year. Bottled at 43% VOL, this expression has won multiple gold awards since its release in 2009. Enjoy rich sherry with fruit & nut chocolate on the nose and delicate peat smoke and toasted malt on the palate.

Distilled at Glenfiddich in Speyside, home of the world's most-awarded single malt, this experimental expression has been matured for more than two decades in hand-selected American and European oak casks before spending up to six months in rare French cuvée casks, creating a palate with notes of baked goods and fresh fruit. Bottled at 23 years old, this expression is presented in exquisite packaging; the perfect gift for celebrating life's big moments.

This 12 Year Old single malt is crafted using a combination of European and American sherryseasoned oak casks and American ex-bourbon oak casks, before being expertly married to create an extraordinarily smooth, delicate yet complex whisky.

Speyside single malt — Distilled in Forres — Chocolate; honey; sherry

Speyside Single Malt — The only Glenfiddich whisky to be finished in French cuvée casks — Vanilla; pear sorbet; brioche

Part of the Triple Cask range — Formally known as The Macallan 12 Year Old Fine Oak — Vanilla; citrus; toasted oak

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The Glenlivet 15 Year Old

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Aberlour A'bunadh

Balvenie 17 Year Old DoubleWood

70cl | 40% VOL | £60

70cl | —% VOL | £91

70cl | 43% VOL | £105

Glenlivet Distillery was one of the first to use French oak – a technique since imitated across the industry – to produce a more intensely flavoured, creamier finish. This whisky’s distinctive character is the result of selective maturation, with a proportion of the spirit matured in a selection of French oak casks so as not to overpower the final result.

Translating to ‘the original’ from Gaelic, A’bunadh is made in homage to Aberlour’s founder, James Fleming, using only traditional methods without chill filtration or other modern processes. The result is a heavier, creamier single malt that is memorably flavoursome, with an intense raisin character. This unique expression is bottled at cask strength, which varies from batch to batch.

A creation of Balvenie’s Malt Master, David Stewart, this expression is matured first in American oak barrels, which impart soft sweet vanilla notes, before being transferred to European oak sherry casks, adding rich spice and depth of flavour. An elder sibling to DoubleWood 12 Year Old, this expression mirrors its honeyed, spicy characteristics, but with a striking richness and complexity.

Speyside Single Malt — Elder sibling to the famous 12 Year Old expression — Acacia honey; winter spices; honeysuckle Beautiful example of French oak maturation — Matured in Limousin oak, typically used for fine wine and Cognac — Oak spice; chocolate; stewed fruits

Matured in Spanish Oloroso sherry casks — Strength varies from batch to batch — Stewed fruit; Christmas pudding; crème brûlée

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Campbeltown Malts Festival It’s that time of year when the Campeltown Malts Festival welcomes an international audience to enjoy the essence of their closeknit distilling community. For those who can’t make it, we’ve curated a taste of Campbeltown you can enjoy from the comfort of your home.

Glen Scotia Taster Pack

Kilkerran 12 Year Old

Glen Scotia 18 Year Old

3x5cl | various% VOL | £24

70cl | 46% VOL | £44

70cl | 46% VOL | £89

Transport your tastebuds to Campbeltown with this Glen Scotia gift pack. Experience three exceptional representations of the distillery's signature single malt style: Glen Scotia’s Double Cask, 15 Year Old and Victoriana – combining notes of sea spray, spicy aromatic fruits, vanilla and oak.

This is Glengyle Distillery’s inaugural core release since reopening in 2004 after being closed for over 75 years. Kilkerran 12 Year Old is lightly peated, free from chill filtration, and has been matured in a combination of 70% bourbon casks and 30% sherry casks. Toasted marshmallows and dried fruit lead on the nose, followed by vanilla, butterscotch and honeycomb on the palate, with a velvety finish.

This 18 Year Old single malt was first matured in a combination of refill bourbon casks and refill American oak hogsheads. The finest casks were then handselected and vatted together in first-fill Oloroso sherry casks for a finishing period of 12 months. Enjoy a crisp Campbeltown saltiness on the nose and lots of fruit on the palate: apricot and pineapple amidst rich sultanas.

The finish is long and warming.

A trio of 5cl serves — A perfect introduction to Campbeltown whisky — Includes three of Glen Scotia’s signature expressions

Campeltown single malt — The first core expression from Glengyle Distillery after reopening — Marzipan; digestive biscuits; lemon meringue

Award-winning Campbeltown single malt — Handsome golden hue — Sea spray; spiced raisin; honey

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Springbank 21 Year Old 2019

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The Loch Fyne Springbank 28 Year Old Gift Set

70cl | 46% VOL | £275

50cl | 40% VOL | £350

For this particular edition, Springbank’s distillers used whisky drawn from both port pipes and rum casks, before bottling the liquid at 46% VOL. Port cask notes of raspberry, blackberry and plum come to the forefront on the nose, with salted caramel, dark chocolate and honey-glazed ham following on the palate.

This single cask from Loch Fyne Whiskies was distilled at Campbeltown's Springbank distillery in 1989 and matured for almost three decades before being bottled in 2018. The cask produced just 211 bottles at natural cask strength, and was awarded the accolade of Liquid Gold in Jim Murray's Whisky Bible 2019. This bottle is presented in a handsome gift set alongside two Glencairn hand-cut crystal glasses, from which to enjoy the whisky.

Campeltown single cask — Limited to just 211 bottles — Fresh fruit; spice; honeyed sweetness

Limited to only 3,600 bottles — A combination of 45% port casks and 55% rum casks — Brown sugar; whipped cream; salted pretzel

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Customer Favourites The whiskies our customers love provide a happy hunting ground for shoppers. From the smoky Islays to sumptuously sherried drams and everything in-between, there is something here for everyone.

We’ve grouped these whiskies by flavour profile, to help you find your favourites from the range.

L IGHT / FLO RA L Bunnahabhain 12 Year Old 70cl | 46.3% VOL | £47 Bunnahabhain lies on the north-eastern tip of Islay and means 'mouth of the river'.

Whiskies made there are quite distinct from other Islay single malts in that the majority are created using unpeated malted barley in a time-honoured distillation process. The isolated coastal sanctuary also takes advantage of the pure spring water that flows freely underground away from the peaty moorlands. This 12-year-old expression showcases the signature ‘fruit and nut’ style of the distillery.

Fettercairn 12 Year Old 70cl | 40% VOL | £50 Hailing from the village of the same name, this core range expression from the Cairngorms is a masterclass in fruity Speyside flavour. Matured in Ameican oak ex-bourbon for its full 12 years in cask, it’s then bottled at an easy-drinking 40% VOL. The nose is light and fruity with notes of vanilla, pear, and soft spice. The palate has juicy nectarines and tropical fruits, with subtle coffee and clove aspects before a rich finish with sultanas and black toffee.

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anCnoc 12 Year Old

Balblair 12 Year Old

Balblair 15 Year Old

70cl | 40% VOL | £38

70cl | 46% VOL | £52

70cl | 46% VOL | £80

A whisky whose name isn’t taken directly from its home distillery, anCnoc comes from the Highland Knockdhu Distillery. Established in 1894 as the perfect embodiment of a modern distillery, Knockdhu lies on the border of Speyside and produces light, intriguing, forwardthinking whisky. Matured in a combination of ex-bourbon, sherry and second-fill American oak casks, this expression is delicate yet complex, smooth yet challenging, and universally loved for it!

Part of the new core range released in 2019, marking a move to expressions bottled by age rather than vintage. Matured in American oak, ex-bourbon and double-fired American oak casks, this 12-year-old expression has an elegant complexity and warmth. The gentle charisma of the Highlands is encapsulated in the fine balance of fruit, spice and sweetness. Elegant and approachable, this is the defining expression of Balblair Distillery.

Another exciting release from Balblair’s new core range. The 15 Year Old is tropical and mature, with the texture of melted chocolate and one of the finest finishes a single malt can bring.

Both round and velvety, welldeveloped and fresh, this whisky represents the perfect balance of unique distillery character and the smoothness of age.

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Bruichladdich The Classic Laddie

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Glen Moray 18 Year Old Elgin Heritage

Loch Lomond 12 Year Old

Auchroisk 10 Year Old

70cl | 50% VOL | £52

70cl | 47.2% VOL | £85

70cl | 46% VOL | £45

70cl | 43% VOL | £48

A seminal single malt originally crafted by industry legend and Bruichladdich master distiller, Jim McEwan, using individually selected casks to showcase the classic floral and elegant Bruichladdich house style. Unpeated, it is their signature bottling and the definitive Bruichladdich. Made from 100% Scottish barley, trickle distilled, then matured for its entire life by the shores of Lochindaal in premium American oak, it is a testament to the quality of the ingredients.

Hailing from the village of the same name, this Speyside single malt from the Cairngorms is aged in the finest American oak barrels specially selected to emphasise this whisky’s smooth character, before being bottled at 47.2% VOL. The nose is buttery and delicate, followed by heatherinfused honey and warm spices on the palate. Enjoy a long and mellow finish.

An eponymous whisky from the innovative distillery on the bonnie banks, where different stills are used to create a stunning variety of single malts. This core range expression – bursting with orchard and citrus fruits, cereal and biscuit sweetness, then wood smoke and a peaty tang – enchanted the taste buds of Jim Murray, who claimed he’s “never seen spice quite like it, or such a sublime balance with the fruity malt”. High praise indeed.

The Auchroisk 10 Year Old is part of Diageo’s Flora & Fauna Series, which consists of 26 different Scotch single malt whiskies from their lesser known distilleries – typically those which predominantly supply liquid for blends, rather than single malt releases. Auchroisk itself is a relatively young Speyside distillery, built in the '70s, and draws natural waters from Dorries Well to produce smooth, subtle whisky.

This 10 Year Old expression is pleasantly light, with a balance of delicate sweetness and fresh flavours before a short finish.

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Customer Favourites The whiskies our customers love provide a happy hunting ground for shoppers. From the smoky Islays to sumptuously sherried drams and everything in-between, there is something here for everyone.

We’ve grouped these whiskies by flavour profile, to help you find your favourites from the range.

R IC H / SW EET R IC H / SW EET The Glenrothes Vintage Reserve

70cl | 40% VOL | £40 Introduced to The Glenrothes core range in 2015, Vintage Reserve marries liquid of ten different vintages from between 1989 and 2007 to achieve the perfect balance of vibrant youth and mature experience.

The oldest constituent brings mellow oak and dried fruits; the dominant proportion adds soft, mature, sweet vanilla; the more youthful additions contribute exuberance and lemon citrus, creating a sharp and uplifting taste, for an ultimately easydrinking Speyside whisky.

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Arran 10 Year Old

The BenRiach 12 Year Old Sherry Oak

Old Pulteney 15 Year Old

70cl | 46% VOL | £45

70cl | 46% VOL | £48

70cl | 46% VOL | £75

The classic expression of the Arran Malt, this 10-year-old captures the fresh and unique island style of the western isle's eponymous distillery and is a multi-award winner, taking gold at both The China Wine & Spirits Best Value Awards 2014 and San Francisco World Spirits Competition 2012. Rich vanilla sweetness gives way to cinnamon on the nose, with a soft and sweet texture that takes on a spicy edge.

The palate is sweet with apple and citrus against a background of oak.

A Speyside single malt crafted using three facets of sherry cask maturation: 12 years of maturation in sherry casks, followed by finishing in Pedro Ximénez and Oloroso sherry casks to give unexpected layers of sweet fruits and toasted oak spice. The nose is fruity and rich, with pear, fig, apricot, mandarin syrup, crème caramel, and toasted vanilla. The palate has more sweet fruits with honeyed fig, baked pineapple, sultana, chocolate fondant, and nutmeg, continuing to the long finish with a distinct sherry note.

This 15 Year Old is one of the most balanced single malts in Old Pulteney’s core range.

Matured in American oak exbourbon casks and finished in Spanish oak, spice and sweetness combine with the refreshing coastal notes expected from the distillery. The nose has rich dried fruit, ripe apples, and citrus, with honey sweetness and a generous chord of creamy vanilla. The palate brings fragrant spices and Christmas cake, before toffee and chocolate mingling with sea salt in the finish.

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Benrinnes 15 Year Old

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Blair Athol 12 Year Old

The Dalmore 12 Year Old

The Dalmore 15 Year Old

70cl | 43% VOL | £52

70cl | 43% VOL | £67

70cl | 40% VOL | £50

70cl | 40% VOL | £72

Another expression from the Flora & Fauna series, this whisky hails from a long-established Speyside distillery with a tumultuous history. Despite fire, flood, world wars, and financial issues, Benrinnes has survived to produce a style of ‘sultry’ Speyside whisky that is always well-rounded and intriguing.

This fantastically sweet, smooth 15- year-old example is packed with estery characteristics subsumed in its dark aromas.

Established in 1798 in picturesque Pitlochry, Blair Athol is one of Scotland’s oldest working distilleries, and produces the signature malt of the famous Bell's blend. This is one of only a few official bottlings ever produced from Blair Athol, and part of the Flora & Fauna series: a collection highlighting the diversity of Scotland's whisky regions. Walnuts and sherry on the nose lead to cinnamon and orange-citrus on the palate, with the richness of fruitcake completing this delightful dram.

It’s not surprising that our former Whisky of The Year retains its status as a firm favourite amongst The Whisky Shop customers.

To recap for those who haven’t yet dipped a toe into The Dalmore portfolio, this single malt is a Highland triumph displaying signs of sherry wood maturation: full-bodied, thick, sweet and ‘muscular’. Leathery notes and a long spicy finish add finesse and make this popular dram an absolute must-try.

Matured for 15 years in a trio of ex-sherry casks, as well as ex-bourbon barrels, The Dalmore 15 Year Old is another core range whisky for your bucket list.

A stylistic evolution from The Dalmore’s famous 12 Year Old and just as popular, you can expect a similarly varied profile of chocolate orange sweetness, gentle spice and rich warmth.

It’s a true testament to the distillery’s creative and ambitious approach.

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Customer Favourites The whiskies our customers love provide a happy hunting ground for shoppers. From the smoky Islays to sumptuously sherried drams and everything in-between, there is something here for everyone.

We’ve grouped these whiskies by flavour profile, to help you find your favourites from the range.

R IC H / SW EET

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Glenfiddich Project XX

Glen Moray 15 Year Old Elgin Heritage

Glen Scotia Victoriana

70cl | 47% VOL | £50

70cl | 40% VOL | £55

70cl | 54.2% VOL | £73

The result of one of the most ambitious malt experiments undertaken by Glenfiddich, bringing together 20 whisky experts from 16 countries around the world. Project XX is a combination of each expert's selected cask from the Glenfiddich warehouse, carefully married together in a small batch vatting by Malt Master, Brian Kinsman. Deep gold with classic Glenfiddich fruitiness, apple blossom, pear, oak, creamy vanilla and subtle spice on the nose. The palate is refined, with candy floss, toasted almonds, cinnamon, vanilla oak, and a long finish.

Unquestionably Speyside in character, Glen Moray’s Elgin Heritage Collection showcases carefully matured, complex and well-rounded whiskies influenced by the unique Elgin climate. This 15-year-old single malt is aged in a combination of sherry and American oak casks, which impart hints of spice, heady dried fruits, and dark chocolate flavours.

Expect sherried oak and butter toffee on the nose, followed by an indulgent full-bodied palate with sweetly spiced dark chocolate and fine wine. The finish is long and rich.

This Campbeltown single malt has been relaunched at a slightly higher strength than its original release, better reflecting the whiskies created there in the Victorian era, and which have inspired this decadent dram.

It is finished in deep charred oak before bottling straight from the cask, with subtle wood and vanilla combining beautifully with a full-bodied spicy fruit aroma.

The nose is elegant, with oak and crème brûlée leading to caramelised fruit and polished oak. The palate is sweet and concentrated with blackcurrant jam, subtle wood and vanilla, while the finish is clean and sweet with cocoa tones.

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The GlenDronach 12 Year Old

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The GlenDronach 18 Year Old Allardice

Highland Park 18 Year Old Viking Pride

Oban Distillers Edition

70cl | 43% VOL | £49

70cl | 46% VOL | £120

70cl | 43% VOL | £110

70cl | 43% VOL | £79

A signature single malt from the distillery famous for its richly sherried offering, and an awardwinning expression at that. No wonder The GlenDronach 12 Year Old retains its status as a favourite amongst our customers! Matured in both Pedro Ximénez and Oloroso sherry casks, it is imbued with an indulgent portfolio of flavours – stewed fruits, jam, marmalade, nuts and brown sugar all vie for attention – with a faint charcoal smokiness weaving through over time.

Created using waters from the Dronac Burn, this is a superbly complex single malt made in the characteristic big sherry style. An ode to James Allardice, who founded the distillery and produced the very first drops of ‘guid Glendronach’, this expression has been matured in the finest Oloroso sherry casks. Rich and dark, it promises remarkable depth of flavour with stewed fruits and allspice.

One of the most awarded whiskies of all time, the Highland Park 18 Year Old demonstrates harmony, refinement, and complexity.

Layers of honeyed sweetness and delicious hints of chocolatecoated cherries are joined by a subtle top-note of aromatic peat smoke. The beautifully balanced flavour is down to Highland Park’s five traditional keystones of production, and it is a real favourite amongst our staff!

A seriously complex whisky of the highest order. Each expression of Oban Distillers Edition undergoes 'double' maturation in casks that have previously held a fortified wine. The distillery’s entrepreneurial founders – who specialised in importing ‘in demand’ goods – would have approved of the Spanish influence brought to bear in this Montilla Fino cask wood finish, which boasts a signature salty smokiness along with walnut, orange citrus and an identifiable, crowd-pleasing sherry character.

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Customer Favourites The whiskies our customers love provide a happy hunting ground for shoppers. From the smoky Islays to sumptuously sherried drams and everything in-between, there is something here for everyone.

We’ve grouped these whiskies by flavour profile, to help you find your favourites from the range.

SM OKY

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Talisker Port Ruighe

Caol Ila Distillers Edition

Ailsa Bay 1.2

70cl | 45.8% VOL | £55

70cl | 43% VOL | £75

70cl | 48.9% VOL | £60

The whisky gurus at Talisker Distillery have taken their seminal Isle of Skye malt and finished it in ruby Port casks to create the fantastically rich and fruity Port Ruighe. The nose moves from sea-spray to waxy aromas with a little sweetness. This is mirrored on the palate, with Talisker’s classic maritime character being rounded off and dramatically sweetened by the port finish. The finish includes cocoa and oak, with even a hint of citrus.

A stylish, richly flavoured and complex expression from Islay’s much-loved Caol Ila Distillery.

Following many years maturing in oak casks, this whisky has then been ‘double matured’ in Moscatel cask wood, hand-selected to complement the whisky’s sweetly fruity, smoky intensity. Expect cinnamon layered with orange and apple freshness, sweet malty biscuit flavours, and waves of classic Islay peat smoke.

Version number two of the unique single malt distilled at Girvan, overlooking Ailsa Craig in the Firth of Clyde. It’s the only Scotch to undergo a micro-maturation with spirit first filled to small ex-bourbon casks for intense rapid maturation, before being transferred to virgin, first-fill and refill American oak for several years. The nose has wood smoke and heather with sweet vanilla oak and candied orange peel.

The palate is a perfect balance of peat and vanilla sweetness, with fruit and toffee emerging. The finish has sweet oak balanced with drying peat.

Whiskeria

Jura 18 Year Old

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Port Charlotte 10 Year Old

Inchmoan 12 Year Old

70cl | 44% VOL | £75

70cl | 50% VOL | £62

70cl | 46% VOL | £50

The oldest expression in Jura’s signature range, this 18 Year Old has been matured in American white oak exbourbon barrels and enriched by Premier Grand Cru Classé red wine barriques, and is bottled at 44% for optimal flavour. The nose boasts sweet toffee and cinnamon spice. The palate is rich and full-bodied with Black Forest fruits and some smoky notes, before a bitter chocolate aspect and fresh espresso to finish.

The flagship release in Bruichladdich's heavily peated range is distilled, matured and bottled on Islay, and crafted using first-fill and second-fill American whiskey casks plus a proportion of second-fill French wine casks.

The nose has characteristic Port Charlotte smoke, with sweeter caramel, fudge, and vanilla custard alongside ginger, cloves and nutmeg. The palate is soft with loose smoke and sweet coconut, vanilla, sherbet lemon, and oak notes coming to the fore, with smoked oyster and sun-baked salty sand. The finish is smoky with banoffee pie, mango, apple, and sweet malt.

Part of Loch Lomond Whiskies' peated Island Collection, born of a unique combination of spirit from a traditional swan neck pot still and a straight neck pot still, resulting in an unconventional peat character marrying smoke and spice. Sweet vanilla from re-charred American oak and refill bourbon casks complement the soft peat style. The nose has smouldering peat with vanilla syrup and cracked black pepper, while the palate is sweet with medicinal peat, smoked bacon, roasted coffee beans, cloves and star anise, developing to fruity green apple and pear. The finish is long with waxy peat and gooseberry citrus.

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International Customer Favourites

Introducing a selection of The Whisky Shop customers’ top expressions from outside of Scotland! Hailing from across the globe, our international Customer Favourites represent an increased curiosity in nonScotch drams, and also the growing trend for whisk(e)y distilling the world over.

INTERNATIONA L Kavalan Concertmaster 50cl | 40% VOL | £55 One of the most awarded Asian whiskies of all time, presented in a 50cl bottle (ideal for those who like a little taste of something different). It is distilled in Yilan, North Eastern Taiwan, using the cold pure spring water that flows through the Snow Mountain, and matured in American oak before finishing in port barriques for fantastic smoothness. The exceptionally pure air and a sub-tropical climate around the distillery contribute to this single malt’s uniquely light and fruity flavour – tropical notes mix with cinnamon spice, vanilla and cream, and finish on luscious dark fruits.

Tyrconnell 16 Year Old Oloroso & Moscatel Cask Finish 70cl | 46.3% VOL | £80 Tyrconnell was first made to celebrate the victory of racehorse ‘Tyrconnell’ at the 1876 National Produce Stakes horse race. This limited-edition expression has been aged for 16 years in American white oak ex-bourbon barrels, before a victory lap in Oloroso sherry casks and Moscatel wine casks from Andalucia. This winning combination breeds honeysuckle and Champagne with peach, apple, and figs on the nose, then a palate that’s nutty with rich dark chocolate and sweet honeycomb, before a long, dry finish brings lime, grapefruit, and warming spiced oak.

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Maker’s 46

Redbreast 12 Year Old

Green Spot

70cl | 47% VOL | £45

70cl | 40% VOL | £50

70cl | 40% VOL | £46

A ‘totally new kind of Bourbon’, Maker’s 46 is crafted with seared French oak staves and matured in the coolest part of the beautifully situated Maker’s Mark Distillery, Kentucky.

Named after its origin as the 46th recipe explored by its creators, this exceptionally smooth Bourbon is an evolution from the standard Maker’s Mark expression, and a masterpiece of natural caramel, vanilla, and spice flavours.

The first official reference to the brand name 'Redbreast' appears in August 1912, when Gilbeys were selling "Redbreast" J.J. Liqueur Whiskey 12 Years Old. The name 'Redbreast' itself refers to the bird, Robin Redbreast, and is attributed to the then Chairman of Gilbey's, who was an avid bird-fancier.

This modern 12 Year Old expression is a single pot still whiskey full of aroma and flavour, benefitting from a strong contribution of distillates which have matured in Oloroso sherry casks, giving it its trademark Christmas cake character.

A non-age statement single pot still Irish whiskey comprised of pot still whiskeys aged between seven and ten years old. It has been matured in a combination of new and refill bourbon casks as well as sherry casks. The nose is fresh with aromatic oils, spice and orchard fruits on a background of toasted wood.

The flavour is spicy and fullbodied, with a hint of cloves and the fresh fruity sweetness of green apples, along with further toasted oak leading to a lingering spicy, barley finish.

Whiskeria

Bulleit Bourbon 10 Year Old

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Roe & Co

Tullamore D.E.W. 14 Year Old

70cl | 45.6% VOL | £49

70cl | 45% VOL | £35

70cl | 41.3% VOL | £57

Billed as ‘Tom Bulleit’s selected reserve’ this sublime whiskey was first aged in charred American white oak, before select Bulleit Bourbon barrels were set aside to age for a total of 10 years. The result is a very special expression that promises a rich, deep, incredibly smooth-sipping experience. Deep russet in colour with rich oaky aromas, you can expect a consistently smooth taste with vanilla and dried fruit, before a long, smoky finish.

A premium blended Irish whiskey marrying single malt and single grain liquid in American oak ex-bourbon casks, a high percentage of which are first-fill. Developed

by Master Blender, Caroline Martin, Prototype 106 was chosen to hold up in cocktails, as well as be enjoyed neat.

Fragrant and rounded with soft spice, mellow spun sugar and warm, woody vanilla, the balance is immediately evident on the palate, with a velvety texture and sweetness including spiced pears and vanilla, then creaminess lingering in the finish.

An Irish single malt triple distilled and matured in exbourbon casks for the majority of its life, before being finished in a selection of four specially chosen casks: bourbon, Oloroso sherry, port and Madeira. The nose is fruity, with citrus, apple and mango atop rich honey and vanilla. The palate has fresh green fruits, toffee, cinnamon, nutmeg and a touch of ginger.

The finish brings malty notes with some milk chocolate and a touch of spice.

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Spring 2020

Expert Tasting

Platinum Old & Rare Bunnahabhain 30 Year Old / Benromach 50 Year Old

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A 30 Year Old bottling of Bunnahabhain and the oldest expression currently in the Benromach range are put to the test of Charlie MacLean’s tastebuds.

Platinum Old & Rare Bunnahabhain 30 Year Old Islay Single Malt Age: 30 Year Old

Vol: 44.9%

70CL £560

002

Full gold, with a mellow nose-feel and slightly dry. The top notes are faintly fruity (dried pineapple, with a hint of juicy orange); beneath this is a light maritime note (warm sand and dry, edible seaweed).

A pleasant texture, a sweet taste (boiled fruit sweets) and a pinch of salt, drying in the finish.

Benromach 50 Year Old Speyside Single Malt Age: 50 Year Old

Vol: 44.6%

70CL £8000

Rich amber in hue although drawn from an American oak cask.

Mellow and highly fragrant, with top notes of tropical fruits (mango, papaya, banana), backed by natural turpentine on a base of sandalwood. Exotic. The texture is smooth and the taste sweet, with a dry and lingering aftertaste of scented wood.

97

Expert Tasting

platinum old & rare bunnahabhain Bunnahabhain Distillery was built between 1881 and 1883 by William Robertson of the Glasgow firm of blenders and brokers, Robertson & Baxter. It was built in partnership with Greenlees Brothers of Campbeltown, who owned Hazelburn Distillery and the best-selling blended Scotch of the day, Lorne, as well as the better-known Old Parr and Claymore blends.

Not surprisingly, given its owners, the distillery was designed to produce whisky for blending, which meant using unpeated or lightly peated malt. The owners went so far as to draw their process water from a spring in the Margadale Hills to the south of the distillery and pipe it down to avoid contact with peat.

Bunnahabhain is the most remote and most northern distillery on Islay. Its construction was not without difficulties: during the first winter of building, two large boilers were blown off the beach where they were waiting to be fitted, and a mile-long road had to be laid up a steep cliff to connect the site with the road to Port Askaig, the nearest village.

William Robertson went on to found Highland Distilleries (now part of the Edrington Group) when he acquired Glen Rothes Distillery in 1887, and when the sister company, Robertson & Baxter, was appointed by the distinguished London wine merchants, Berry Brothers & Rudd, to blend their recently launched brand, Cutty Sark (in the 1920s), both Bunnahabhain and Glen Rothes became key filling malts.

In 1971, Highland Distilleries and Robertson & Baxter acquired Matthew Gloag & Sons, owners of The Famous Grouse. The Gloag family was obliged to sell in order to meet the punitive death duties which applied at that time and, again, Bunnahabhain became a key filling for the blend. As a result, it was not bottled as a single malt by its owners until 1979, since which time it has won a sound reputation, especially among Islay enthusiasts – including many locals – who prefer a milder style of Islay malt.

So, it was somewhat surprising that Bunnahabhain Distillery was sold to Burn Stewart Distillers in 2003. Accordingly, it is now owned by the Distell Group of South Africa, which has owned Burn Stewart

Distillers since 2013.

In 2017, Distell announced an £11 million investment over three years in upgrading Bunnahabhain’s ‘scruffy’ appearance; “improving the operational side of the distillery for the long-term future” and transforming the site into a “world-class whisky destination.” Work began in early 2019 with the demolition of some warehouses to make way for the new visitor centre.

Derek Scott, Director Of Malts with Distell, stated: “We are restoring our buildings to their former glory and providing a visitor experience where we don’t just welcome visitors – after the long, winding journey to get here, we help them enjoy a piece of Bunnahabhain life.

“The plan’s aim is to make the navigation of the site much easier for the visitor and to, in simple terms, declutter it.

“This will ensure the buildings are more efficient from a storage point of view and located in better-suited, more accessible locations to the production buildings.”

This venerable and limited Bunnahabhain 30 Year Old is from the well-known independent bottler, Hunter Laing. benromach 50 year old Benromach Distillery was founded in 1898 on Alexander Edward’s Sanquhar Estate near Forres but did not go into production until 1909. The reason for the delay is interesting.

The founders were Duncan McCallum (owner of Glen Nevis Distillery, Campbeltown) and F.W. Brickmann (spirits broker in Leith), supported by Alexander Edward; entrepreneur, philanthropist, owner of the first motor car in Morayshire and one of the unsung heroes of the Scotch whisky industry in the 1890s.

Edward was born near Craigellachie and in 1888 founded the Craigellachie Distillery Company, in partnership with Peter Mackie and others, when he was only 23. The company built the distillery there in 1891, to supply fillings for White Horse, which Mackie launched the same year.

In 1893 Edward inherited Benrinnes Distillery from his father and rebuilt it; in 1894 he bought the brick and tile works in Craigellachie, and in 1895 built Aultmore

Distillery. By 1896 he had also built the Craigellachie Hotel and much of the village.

The Banffshire Herald of 31st January that year reported: “Mr Edward’s success in having amassed an independent fortune before he was barely entered in his 30s is regarded as a perfect marvel. He is not contented to make his pile by the thousand, but by his potent tact and skill can accomplish this by tens of thousands… Mr Edward is endowed with a most warm and generous heart, showing constant kindness and attention to those under him…”

He went on to buy Oban Distillery in 1898, the same year as he supported the Benromach Distillery venture. Alas, two of his principal customers for malt fillings were the blenders, Pattison of Leith and the aforementioned F.W. Brickmann. The Pattison brothers were also part-owners of Oban and Aultmore (and halfowners of Glenfarclas), while Brickmann sat on the board of Benrinnes and Benromach. At the time, Pattison of Leith was one of the largest and best-known blenders in Scotland.

But in December 1898, rumours began to circulate about Pattison’s liquidity and the Clydesdale Bank refused to honour the company’s cheques. Its conspicuous success and the lavish lifestyle of its owners were based on borrowed money, credit within the whisky industry and worse: the brothers were found guilty of ‘fraudulent flotation, other frauds and embezzlement’ in 1901 and sent to prison.

The collapse not only destroyed confidence in the Scotch whisky industry, it ruined at least nine other companies, including that of F.W. Brickmann. The construction of Benromach was put on hold and, even after completion, it had a chequered career until it was bought in 1993 by Gordon & MacPhail, the long-established family-owned wine & spirits merchants in Elgin. They spent the next five years reinstating the plant, all of which had been removed by the previous owner, Scottish Malt Distillers, who had themselves refurbished Benromach in 1966. This splendid example of the make thus dates from that period.

98

Whiskeria

Spring 2020

Dear Uncle Ether Uncle Ether Foreshot, whisky’s wisest agony uncle, offers his insight into three more dram-based dilemmas.

— Illustration: Francesca Waddell

Dear Uncle Ether, Before Christmas I began to suspect that my wife, Sally, was having an affair. I detected the usual signs – leaving the room to take phone calls, lots of texting and a general air of furtiveness. I confided in my best friend, Bob, who immediately put my mind at rest.

He explained that she would be making plans to buy me a Christmas present. Bob and I both like a dram so he gave me a number of suggestions of what hints to leave with Sally.

Sure enough, on Christmas Day Sally presented me with a magnificent bottle of Cragganmore 30 Year Old. However, things took a turn for the worse on Boxing Day. Sally announced that she was leaving me, with immediate effect – and that she was leaving me for Bob. I was shocked, stunned and surprised. And then things got worse again. When she had cleared out, I noticed that she had taken with her – presumably for Bob – my bottle of Cragganmore. Do you think I should keep Bob as my best friend or is it time to draw a line under our relationship?

Billy from Exeter

Dear Billy, This is indeed a tale of intrigue and deception – you could call it ‘The Billy, Bob, Sally Triangle’. I like that, it’s catchy. Could you write a book? I admire your unquestioning trust in those that surround you. Trust is an essential tool for navigating life, although I have to admit that it has let you down somewhat on this occasion. I imagine that you must be hurting, but my best advice to you is to try and stand back and evaluate your losses.

The Cragganmore is replaceable, you can find it online at whiskyshop.com under Platinum Old & Rare. Sally might also be replaceable.

Again, you can get another online. But best friends? That’s tricky… Let me know when you’ve replaced the Cragganmore and I’ll join you for a dram!

Dear Uncle Ether, I bought my husband a bottle of Yamazaki 12 Year Old for his birthday, however, I felt that he drank the bottle too quickly and I raised this with him.

He said that there was a best before date on the bottle and that it had reached its limit. Is this true?

Wendy from Wiltshire

Dear Uncle Ether, A young couple have moved into our address in the Edinburgh New Town – just across the landing. I have noticed the husband coming home with a bottle of cheap blend in his shopping bag. I feel that having blend drinkers at the same address will bring down the value of my property. Can you advise?

Walter from Edinburgh

Dear Wendy, You know, when you come to think of it, there’s a limit to everything in life. There’s a speed limit, there’s a limit to one’s patience, there’s a limit to how long we live, there’s a giddy limit, there’s even a sky limit. Everything has an end point and it would appear that this bottle of Yamazaki had reached its end. After all, it was 12 years old already. I always maintain that whisky is for drinking, not looking at, and so I’m of the belief that your husband did the right thing.

Dear Walter, Ah! The stately Georgian splendour of the New Town of Edinburgh. How often I have walked its streets and admired the symmetry and grandeur of the architecture and wondered what it would be to live there. I can see immediately that you, Walter, are a worrier. You must have time on your hands to granulate intellectual nuances such as this one. Perhaps you are an academic? So, let me educate you. There is no such thing as a ‘cheap blend’. All blends are good, and many are excellent value for money.

Think not of your new neighbour as having inferior sensibilities to your own but think of him as being astute – perhaps a step ahead? He has realised that a regular toot of an inexpensive blend is good value. Perhaps he is saving his malts for when you go to visit?

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