Wine plus guide - Wines of Peloponnese 2016

THE

Guide

WINES OF PELOPONNESE 1

2

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edito

Wines of Peloponnese. Authentic Greek Terroirs We’ve travelled through some of the most renowned Greek vineyards.

We’ve walked hundreds of kilometres and stopped at celebrated wineries to sample our favourite wines right where they are produced.

We’ve met the people who make them.

We’ve sought out the traditional products of each region’s unique cuisine.

We’ve been happily surprised to find tastes and aromas beautifully attuned to the locale in a way that could only imagine.

We’ve enjoyed the natural beauty along the Peloponnese Wine Roads and explored the history that infuses the entire region, from archaeological sites, churches, monasteries, museums, historic buildings and more to the wineries themselves, which are open to visitors.

Along the way we’ve stopped at local restaurants and tavernas, and shopped from local gourmet workshops and stores stocked with regional culinary specialties.

A trip along the Peloponnese Wine Roads offers countless great experiences.

We’ve noted them down and very proudly present you the Wine Plus guide Wines of Peloponnese 2016.

Enjoy!

Maria Netsika

Contents

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18

WINES OF PELOPONNESE BY NUMBERS

08

06

DISCOVER THE PELOPONNESE WINE ROADS

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CORINTHIA & ARGOLIDA WINE ROADS FOR AGIORGITIKO AFICIONADOS AND MORE!

26

18

ARKADIA WINE ROADS IN THE LAND OF THE MOSCHOFILERO

28

26

ACHAIA WINE ROADS

28

THE SLOPES OF EGIALIA

36

ILIA & MESSINIA WINE ROADS VINEYARDS AND SELECT WINES

38

38

36

CEPHALONIA WINE ROADS

44

LAKONIA WINE ROADS WINES OF MONEMVASIA: FROM BYZANTIUM UNTIL TODAY

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44

DON’T MISS TASTE IT > LOVE IT > SHOP IT > SHARE IT

WP guide WINES OF PELOPONNESE DECEMBER 2016 Free press

Publisher WINE PLUS M. NETSIKA & CO 5 Kariotaki St., 546 45 Thessaloniki T: + 30 2310 888311 F: + 30 2310 888312 e-mail: info@wineplus.gr www.wineplus.gr

Editor Maria Netsika

Translation Glossima & Wehrheim

Design Red Fish

Contributing Editors Kostis Zafirakis, Niki Mitarea, Maria Tzitzi

Photos Heinz Troll, Thomas Gantzopolos, Wine Plus Photo Archives

Print Beyond S.A.

Domaine Skouras | Argos, Greece | skouras.gr | GPS: 37.689690, 22.654780

Three decades.

Haute winemaking.

Every vintage in vogue. siNCE 1986

IN THE MOUNTAIN VINEYARD REGIONS OF ΝΕΜΕΑ ΙΝ THE PELOPONNESE, GREECE, ΤΕΑΜ DOΜΑΙΝΕ SKOURAS HAS BEEN CULTIVATING OUR GOOD HEALTH BY HARVESTING ITS INTUITION AND MATURING ITS PERCEPTION OF THE WONDERFUL INTRICACIES OF LIFE, WINE & DINE. ΑΝD WHILE RAISING HIS DEPTH TOWARDS THAT GREEK

© DOMAINE SKOURAS 2016

BLUE SKY, WINEMAKER GEORGE SKOURAS GETS MIRACULOUSLY CLOSE TO BECOMING A VINE HIMSELF. SUCH IS HIS FOCUS, HIS PASSION AND HIS HAUTE WINEMAKING. GREAT STUFF, THOUGH PRETTY SIMPLE, UTTERLY UPLIFTING, BLUE ROCK THRUSH INCLUDED.

Open and share a Skouras wine: around Greece and Europe, in the UK and the USA, somewhere in China or Australia — or in some unexpected place on our wine-loving planet, too…

Wines of Peloponnese by numbers 6

Hectarage under P.D.O. + P.G.I. status (% of total Greek vineyard)

P.D.I.

27.59 %

P.D.O.

25.74%

Vineyards

(% of total Greek vineyard)

22,190 ha (32% )

Greek grape varieties (% of total Greek vineyard)

91% Agiorgitiko

Roditis

26.5%

11.65%

(3,204 ha)

(1,406 ha)

Most widely grown grapes

www.wineplus.gr

Sources: O.I.V., Hellenic Statistical Authority

Soultanina

9%

(1,095 ha)

Moschofilero

Mavroudi

7%

5.3%

(852 ha)

(645 ha)

Wine production (% of total Greek wine production in 2014)

8,246,000 HL

Style of wines 7

White

60%

(31%)

Red

40% Wineries

180

10 P.D.O. 3 WHITES: P.D.O. Mantinia P.D.O. Patras P.D.O. Robola of Cephalonia 1 RED: P.D.O. Nemea 6 DESSERT WINES: P.D.O. Muscat of Patras P.D.O. Muscat of Rio Patras P.D.O. Muscat of Cephalonia P.D.O. Monemvasia-Malvasia P.D.O. Mavrodaphne of Patras P.D.O. Mavrodaphne of Cephalonia

24 P.G.I. P.G.I. Peloponnese P.G.I. Argolida P.G.I. Arkadia P.G.I. Achaia P.G.I. Corfu P.G.I. Halikouna P.G.I. Gerania P.G.I. Ilia P.G.I. Klimenti P.G.I. Korinthia P.G.I. Lakonia P.G.I. Letrina P.G.I. Lefkada P.G.I. Mantzavinata P.G.I. Messinia P.G.I. Metaxata P.G.I. Pisatis P.G.I. Pylia P.G.I. Slopes of Egialia P.G.I. Slopes of Enos P.G.I. Slopes of Petroto P.G.I. Tegea P.G.I. Trifilia P.G.I. Zakynthos

Peloponnese Wine Roads

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Discover the Peloponnese Wine Roads Simple well-being lessons in 7 routes of wine 8

Wine Roads are an excursion proposal addressed to the modern traveller. They propose select routes traversing the most picturesque parts of a wine-growing area.

Wine Routes can be found in almost all wine producing countries. In 1998 in the Peloponnese, 25 wine producers established the Wine Producers Association of the Peloponnesian Vineyard with the distinctive title “Peloponnese Wine Roads�.

The association members, who today number more than 50, propose 7 routes traversing the whole peninsula.

Vathy

Patras

We travel, among some of the most famous Greek vineyards.

We stop at renowned wineries and take a tour of their enchanting world of wine.

We taste our favourite wines right where they are produced.

We meet the people who make them.

We participate in wine exhibitions, wine festivals and other related events.

We seek out the traditional products and the gastronomic features of each region.

We taste them and acquire them from their original place of production.

We enjoy the havens of beauty and tranquillity that nature has spread out. We explore the history that infuses the entire region, from the well-known archaeological sites with their findings, symbols of the ancient world, to the churches, monasteries, museums, historic buildings and more.

The Peloponnese Wine Roads invite us to experience unforgettable images, aromas and flavours.

Wine Route of Cephalonia This vineyard situated on the largest island of the Ionian sea produces 3 P.D.O. wines: Robola of Cephalonia, Muscat of Cephalonia, Mavrodaphne of Cephalonia, and 3 P.G.I. Slopes of Enos, Metaxata, Matzavinata. (p. 38)

Zakynthos

Amaliada

Pyrgos

Zacharo Achaia Wine Roads In the north-eastern part of the Peloponnese, wine tourism in Achaia taps into the long history and cultural tradition in the area.

The extended Achaean vineyard produces the P.D.O. Patras, Mavrodaphne of Patras, Muscat of Patras, Muscat of Rio Patras, and P.G.I. Achaia wines. Without a doubt, the most charming part of the vineyard is the eastern zone, at the Egialia and Kalavrita area, where the P.G.I. Slopes of Egialia wine is produced. (p. 26)

Kyparissia Filiatra

Methoni Messinia & Ilia Wine Roads This is the region where the vineyards of the Messinia and Ilia produce the P.G.I. Messinia and Ilia wines respectively, and where wine tourism is particularly intriguing / attractive! (p. 36)

Koroni

Peloponnese Wine Roads

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Tips to taste your way through Peloponnese Wine Roads:

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• Don’t be afraid to ask questions. Wine producers are thrilled to talk about wine.

• Don’t hesitate to sample new labels or unknown products. The intense joy of your discovery will astound you!

• Do not swallow the wine you taste. Use the spit buckets which are available in all tasting venues.

Enjoy!

Sponsors

Egio Corinthia & Argolida Wine Roads At the north-eastern part of the Peloponnese lies one of the most important vineyards in Greece, the Nemea vineyard, producing P.D.O. wines from the red variety Agiorgitiko.

The connection between Nemea and Agiorgitiko wine is one of the most popular and well-loved by consumers. (p. 8)

Kiato

Corinthos Nemea

Argos Tripoli

Poros

Δρόμος του Κρασιού της Αργολίδας

Megalopoli

Kalamata

Ligourio

Astros

Sparta

Gythio

Kranidi

Hydra

Arcadia Wine Roads One of the most interesting areas in the Peloponnese is its central part, meaning the area of Arcadia, where the Mantinia vineyard produces the P.D.O. wines from the white Moschofilero variety.

What’s more, the MantiniaMoschofilero duet is the most popular among Greek white wine. (p. 18)

Areopoli Monemvasia

Laconia Wine Roads At the peninsula’s south-eastern end, wine tourism introduces us to the revival of the Malvasia wine, which was the most renowned wine in Europe during the Venetian rule. (p. 44)

Corinthia & Argolida Wine Roads

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CORINTHIA & ARGOLIDA WINE ROADS

For Agiorgitiko aficionados and more!

Corinthos Nemea

Argos

FAST FACTS ON NEMEA WINE REGION: Vineyards’ surface: 3,000 ha Annual Wine Production: 220,000 HL Wineries: 40 P.D.O. (Protected Designation of Origin) Nemea Dry red Medium-sweet red Sweet red Variety: Agiorgitiko Nemea wine styles: Light, easy drinking fresh red wines full of ripe fruit, sunshine and soft sexy tannins.

Rich, complex, age worthy reds for the cellar.

We leave Corinth behind and head towards Nemea, the largest and most well-known wine producing region in the Peloponnese. The landscape’s beauty is breath-taking, with vines, olive groves and cypresses. Every window in the Nemean countryside opens out onto a vista of the tantalizingly simple and disarming splendour of its colours and fragrances. The monuments of the ancient and medieval cities of Mycenae, Tiryns, Argos, Nafplio, Epidaurus, Ancient Nemea, beckon us to visit. And the wineries of the Peloponnese Wine Roads await in the blessed wine regions. What more can one ask for?

Nemea: The most dynamic ‘wine country’ in Greece?

Ancient Nemea, Ancient Kleones, Gymno, Koutsi, Asprokambos, Dafni, Psari, Petri, Aidonia... The wine country of Nemea spreads across the green plain before it starts climbing the slopes. The wineries lie among endless rows of well-tended Agiorgitiko vines.

It is not an exaggeration to say that Nemea has managed to attract the crème de la crème of Greek wine-makers. As a result, there is an ever increasing number of labels (more than 100, which is the largest number in Greek Designation of Origin) in all price ranges, while the Nemea/Agiorgitiko duet brands gain recognition both in the domestic and foreign markets.

The next step – which has been discussed intensely for years – is the creation of wine subzones (cru) protected through legislation as sites of superior quality. An almost equally intense demand is the need for clonal selection for the Agiorgitiko, given the large differentiation in its ampelographic features within the zone.

Nemea vineyards and Agiorgitiko The Nemea wine producing zone is the largest in Greece. Its vineyard covers a total of 16 communities, spreading across approximately 3,000 ha from the plain and up to the foothills of the Mount Kyllini.

The vineyards begin at an altitude of 260 meters, eventually reaching 800 meters. Most are linear trained in cordon Royat system, although some older (more than 50 years) develop the goblet system. They are quite densely planted (40 – 50 plants/ha) and are mostly unirrigated, although the percentage of watered plants is constantly growing.

The predominating grape is of course the Agiorgitiko. With its deep blue hue, its small round grapes and thick skin, this charismatic grape with the velvety taste is truly sought after. However it flourishes and

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Asprokambos

Psari Petri

Koutsi

Aidonia

Ancient Kleones

Nemea Platani Ancient Nemea Leontio

Gymno

excels in this region, where its maturation is assisted by the prevailing cool northern winds and mild temperatures. Since 1971 the Nemea wine, one of the classic reds of Greece, is registered as a Protected Denomination of Origin (P.D.O.) wine.

Three production zones = many Agiorgitiko styles Due to its size, as well as is morphology, the viticultural zone of Nemea presents extreme diversity. Its varying altitudes, soil, microclimates together make up a complex puzzle which automatically translates into numerous wine styles.

In terms of altitude, vineyards are to be found in three production zones: Α: the lowland, taking in the plains of Nemea, Ancient Nemea, Ancient Kleones and Leontio-Gymno, and extending to the plain and the lower slopes, at an altitude of 200 - 350 meters, Β: the sub-mountainous zone, extending on the slopes of Koutsi and Dafni, at 300 - 600 meters C: and the mountainous zone, which includes the plains at the Asprokambos plateau, at Psari, Kefalari as well as the slopes at Kastraki-Bozika-Titani, reaching 600 – 800 meters.

Famous Nemea wines, deeply coloured, rich and full-bodied, are produced in the beautiful slopes of the middle zone. They are great to age in the barrel and develop a complex bouquet of sweet spices and dense, fresh fruits. These are wines to attract New World wines enthusiasts.

On lower altitudes and richer soils, grapes mature much faster and reach an alcoholic content of 14-15%.

Thanks to this high density in sugars, the initial "Nemea" indication –limited to dry wines- was extended to include sweet wines.

Finally, grapes in the highland zone provide wines with a more fresh taste and the typical fruity aroma of Agiorgitiko. They have paved the path for the production of pleasant rosé wines, as well as light fresh red wines consumed within the year of production.

FAST FACTS ON NEMEA WINE’S HISTORY Antiquity/Fliasios oenos: The wine produced in the valley of modern-day Nemea (Fliasion in antiquity) became popular due to its widespread consumption during the ancient Nemean Games that attracted crowds from various areas.

14th century: Sometime around the middle of the 14th century, Agios Georgios (Saint George) - modern-day Nemea was one of the centres for tax collection in kind (including wine) for the Frankish feudal lord.

18th & 19th century: Numerous sources during the Greek War of Independence make reference to the Agios Georgios wine, also drunk in the surrounding regions.

1971: P.D.O. Nemea is established, the only Greek zone extending into two districts (Corinth and Argolida).

1990 - 1995: The Greek Wine Institute conducts years of research on the area’s vineyards.

Their results define three production zones.

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Corinthia & Argolida Wine Roads Wines to taste Captivating, food-friendly wines capture the essence of Peloponnese ancient tradition and they are perfect on the table, around the globe.

Nemea Reserve Ktima Driopi

Nohma 2006-2007 Palivou Estate

Nemea Cuvée Argyro Domaine Repanis

Yiannis Tselepos with this Agiorgitiko has captured the essence of Nemea appellation zone.

It’s a rich and appealing age worthy wine, with the density of flavours and complex structure that low-yielding mountain grapes give.

Balance, complexity, élan, aplomb, verve... haven't we forgotten anything? Rich warmth.

We are helpless in the face of such concentration!

George Palivos's flagship wine is a study of 3 grapes/2 vintages blend: 60% Agiorgitiko 2007, 23% CS 2006 and 17% Syrah 2006.

Hard to exaggerate the beauty of this Nemea, which is based on Agiorgitiko grown on the mountain and organic estate vineyard in Asprokambos. A balanced and even acidity makes it an outstanding food wine for grilled meats.

Meden Agan Papantonis Winery

Mountain Fish Katogi & Strofilia

This medium-to-full-bodied, plush Agiorgitiko, grown on their estate vineyard in Malandreni, Argolida, has it all: balance, beautiful fruit (dancing cherries on your tongue) and a lovely acidity.

It ages well, giving an always structured, fine and stylish wine.

The cool climate of mountainous village Psari gives this Agiorgitiko a wonderful freshness and mouth-watering juiciness to balance the acidity.

The mouth-feel is velvety, smooth and long lasting. Perfect wine for everyday drinking.

Nemea Reserve Semeli A kaleidoscope of scents and flavours, this Nemea is a fascinating study of Agiorgitiko. With beautiful fruit and spice, it spent 12 months in new oak barriques, plus 12 months in bottles.

Rich and appealing, it should develop over the next decade.

Gaia Estate Gaia Wines Deeply coloured, incredibly flavourful, rich, velvety textured…, a terrific red wine.

Once appeared it has changed the appellation’s orientation and future. Look for plush, generous texture, plum fruit, cherry and spice flavours.

Terroir Estate Papaioannou

Nemea Lantides Wines A special Nemea well-rounded, harmonious, and rich with a lingering finish. 14months in nearly all-new oak provide a framework of smoky caramel, delicious enough, but just an accompaniment to the blackberries, black currants, cherries and dark chocolate.

Thanassis Papaioannou is Greek wine icon.

His deep knowledge of the vine gave birth to this archetype Nemea from the selected parcels of his vineyards still planted with old vines. A beautiful wine. Smooth as silk on the palate with smoky ripe plums and deep mocha.

Argilos Gi Domaine Harlaftis

Megas Oinos George Skouras

Nemeion Estate Nemeion Estate

Megas Oinos is George Skouras’s portfolio absolute legendary wine. Featuring Agiorgitiko and CS (80% - 20%) it shows off the virtues of both grapes. Opulent aromas of cherry, plums, spice and oak, in which it was aged for 20 months. Luscious texture and complexity.

Aromas of bright berries, cherries and strawberries with a kiss of oak and a velvety texture. Enologist and winemaker George Vassiliou’s Nemea is juicy and mouth-watering.

A fantastic wine for drinking now, and should last for many years in the cellar.

An ultra-clean Nemea from Harlaftis family vineyard in Achladias region. Clearly made in a leaner style than high-alcohol cult style, it trades richness for elegance and finesse.

Black3 Zacharia Vineyards Agiorgitiko (50%), Mavrodaphne (40%), Mavroudi (10%) is the varietal composition of this deep red wine. Look for generous texture, plum fruit, cherry and spice flavours.

Rosé Lafkiotis Winery This Ariorgitiko rosé comes from cool mountain vineyards. Expect flavours and aromas of cherries and strawberries with hints of wild herbs and pepper.

Vin de Zennes Estate Constantin Gofas If you wonder what a sweet/sundried Agiorgitiko tastes like, this wine will certainly give you the perfect idea: dried cerise and blackcurrent aromas, roasted nuts and dark chocolate flavours, creamy structure and "al dente" grip on the palate.

Νεμέα. Το βασίλειο του Αγιωργίτικου

Κ ΡΑ Σ Ι

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Corinthia & Argolida Wine Roads

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Corinthia & Argolida Wine Roads A visit to the wineries

Domaine Skouras

Papantonis Winery

Domaine Skouras 37°68’96.90” Ν 22°65’47.80” E

Papantonis Winery 37°62’20.45” Ν 22°71’78.36” E

The wine story: George Skouras, originated from Argos, after studying oenology in Dijon, France and working in wineries both there and in Greece, decided to set his own wine-producing unit, Domaine Skouras, in his homeland, in 1986. In the thirty years that have passed since then, it has been established as one of the most important names in Greek wine and highlighted as a great ambassador of Greek wine abroad.

The visit: The state of the art equipped unit stands out not only for its functionality, but also for the high level of aesthetics in the welcoming area, which hosts works of art by renowned artists. The winery’s people will guide us inside the production area and the charming cellars before leading us to the beautiful wine tasting hall and the spacious verandas.

Highlight: The vineyard view from the huge window of the wine tasting hall, which converts easily to a modern bistro.

Info: 10th km Argos-Sternas, Malandreni, Argos tel. + 30 27510 23688, e-mail: info@skouras.gr, www.skouras.gr Open days/hours: MON - FRI 8:00 – 15.00, SAT 10:30 – 18:00

The wine story: In 1979, Antonis Papantonis bought some vineyards at Malandreni, as he felt that nature, viniculture and wine production could offer more than living in the big city. Today, he continues in the same lifestyle and creativity, focusing on just two Greek varieties (Agiorgitiko, Roditis) and an international one (Chardonnay), staying true to the importance of the names printed on his labels The visit: This small, modern and well organized winery reflects the care given to its wines, the red Meden Agan (meaning "nothing in excess") and the white Metron Ariston (which means “moderation is best”). We will taste them accompanied by traditional local delicacies.

Info: 47 Kanari Str., Argos tel. + 30 27510 23620, e-mail: info@papantonis.gr, www.papantonis.gr Open days/hours: daily 09:00-15:00 or upon request Tour costs: 9.00€ per person (together with wine tasting, local cheeses and delicacies)

Lafazanis Winery

Lafazanis Winery 37°48’48.66” Ν 22°45’56.32” E The wine story: For 70 years now, the Lafazanis Winery cultivates its relationship with wine. Oenologist Spyros Lafazanis and his family are cultivating and promoting in Nemea, as well as in Messinia (p. 41) both local and cosmopolitan grape varieties of the Peloponnesian vineyards.

The visit: This tasteful winery, one of the largest in this zone, is built at Ancient Kleones, a stone’s throw from the ruins of the ancient temple of Hercules. Through the guided tour, we will learn more on the region’s history, wine production and wine tasting secrets.

Highlight: Their Gewürztraminer.

brand

new

label,

Info: Ancient Kleones, Nemea tel. +30 27460 31450, e-mail: winery@lafazanis.gr, www.lafazanis.gr Open days/hours: MON - SAT 9:00 – 16:00 or upon request at visit@lafazanis.gr Lafkiotis Winery 37°82’01.57” Ν 22°74’72.38” E The visit: The third generation of these wine-makers continues the tradition which began some decades ago, and invites us to

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Estate Papaioannou

Palivou Estate

take the tour of their winery. At the end, we will taste their wine while enjoying the view over the famed plain.

Info: Ancient Nemea tel. + 30 27460 23694, e-mail: info@papaioannouwines.gr, www.papaioannouwines.gr Open days/hours: wine tasting MON - SUN 9:00 – 17:00 tour: MON - SAT 11:00 – 15:00

Info: Ancient Nemea tel. +30 27460 24190, e-mail: info@palivos.gr, www.palivos.gr Open days/hours: MON - SUN 9:00 – 17.00.

Free for Greeks, upon request for foreign visitors

Palivou Estate 37°80’70.54” Ν 22°69’50.30” E

Estate Constantin Gofas 37°81’56.40” Ν 22°65’37.09” E

The wine story: Giorgos Palivos begins the guided tour by jokingly mentioning that in his family, with its long tradition in wine cultivation, no one remembers who planted the first vine and where. He himself, following the precepts of modern times, decided in 1995 to turn the old traditional wine press of the family farm into a modern winery. So began the new, very dynamic era for this estate, with the active participation of the new generation that followed.

The wine story: 1959 was the year that the Gofas family decided to utilize its vineyard at the Koutsi and Dafni region. Konstantinos Gofas, a wine-maker born and bred, took over the family winery in 1998 and has led it through a steady rising course, in 2011, in its new winery, inside the privately-owned vineyard at Koutsi.

Info: Ancient Kleones, Nemea tel. +30 27460 31000, e-mail: info@lafkiotis.gr, www.lafkiotis.gr Open days/hours: MON - SAT 10:00 – 15:00 upon request Estate Papaioannou 37°80’67.59” Ν 22°70’67.06” E The wine story: Thanassis Papaioannou, the estate’s establisher, is one of the Greek wine great figures, listed among the pioneers in the "movement" of the smallscale wine producers in Greece. With deep knowledge of the vine and persistence for quality, he installed his own vineyard of organic cultivation – spreading across 65 ha – in different parts of the zone, so that each variety can thrive in its perfectly suited ecosystem.

The visit: A guided tour and wine tasting in the family winery, which was recently renovated and can be found on the central road of Ancient Nemea.

Highlight: The large spread of vine parcels and the age difference among plants lead to a plethora of results/labels.

The visit: While tasting the estate’s wines, we are told that for this family, the creation of a great wine begins at the vine. This is why they invested in the creation of a privately-owned vineyard in excess of 300 ha. Therefore, all of their wines are produced by their own grapes.

Highlight: Red wines-dynamites!

The visit: A full guided tour around the areas of production, ageing and bottling is rounded off by the tasting in the reception hall while admiring the art exhibition.

Info: Koutsi, Nemea tel. +30 27460 24381, e-mail: info@ ktimagofa.gr, www.ktimagofa.gr Open to visitors

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Semeli

Gaia Wines

Semeli 37°87’14.9” Ν 22°68’06.10” Ε

Gaia Wines 37°51’22.1” Ν 22°40’12.00” Ε

Domaine Gioulis 37°95’73 “ Ν 22°57’98.490” E

The wine story: The Semeli winery at Koutsi is one of the most impressive wine producing units in Greece, in terms of its size, architecture, as well as the new age aesthetics of the production area with its tilted roof. The panoramic view of the plain of Nemea with its vineyards and the mountain tops across the huge reception hall and verandas is equally impressive.

The wine story: Gaia Wines’s creators, oenologist Yiannis Paraskevopoulos and agriculturist Leon Karatsalos, installed their wineries in two excellent wine regions of Greece, Santorini and Nemea. Their labels hide a simple yet "challenging" idea: delve into the limits of Greek varieties through cutting-edge technology and offer to wine lovers the best possible result.

The wine story: In 1993, agriculturist and oenologist Giorgos Gioulis established the Domaine Gioulis in his homeland, Klimenti and planted his first mountain vineyard.

Today, he and his children continue the domaine’s history, making their wine from their vineyard’s grapes (in integrated management cultivation).

The visit: We will follow with great interest the detailed guided tour of the vinification and bottling areas and the impressive cellar where the wine is matured, before heading out into the spacious and sunny renovated multiple-use hall, with its lounges and fireplaces, ready for wine tasting.

The visit: We begin with a short tour of the vineyard surrounding the winery, where their flagship wine, Gaia Estate, is produced. We then take a guided tour into the production, bottling, maturing areas and we finally reach the brand new winetasting hall. There, overlooking the oak barrels, we will taste the Gaia wines which are produced at Nemea and Santorini.

Highlight: The renovated restaurant and the spacious suites.

Info: Koutsi, Nemea tel. + 30 27460 20360, 27460 20960, e-mail: info@semeliwines.gr, www.semeliwines.gr Open days/hours: upon request Tour costs: 6.00€ per person (together with tasting of 5 wines and local cheeses delicacies / 1-1 ½ hour) Tour costs: 16.00€ per person (together with tour of the vineyard, tasting of 5 wines and local cheeses delicacies / 3-4 hour)

Highlight: Wine & Spirit magazine has listed this winery among the 100 top "Wineries of the year”, for seven consecutive years!

Info: Koutsi, Nemea tel. +30 27460 22057, e-mail: gaiawine@otenet.gr, www.gaia-wines.gr Open days/hours: upon request Tour costs: 6.00€ per person (together with tasting of 4 wines), 12.00€ per person (together with tasting of 8 wines)

Domaine Gioulis

The visit: The domaine lies in the Klimenti plain, on the route from Kiato towards the Stymphalia lake. Its owners await us for a tour in the vineyards, in the winery and for a tasting of their labels.

Highlight: The domaine wines, which highlight the qualitative features of the mountainous Klimenti P.G.I. Info: Klimenti, Korinthia tel. + 30 27420 33223, 6973 735401, e-mail: info@domainegioulis.gr, www.domainegioulis.gr Open days/hours: MON - SAT but upon request Tour costs: 3.00€ per person Lantides Wines 37°80’04.84” Ν 22°66’47.74” E The wine story: Lantides Wines is a family business launched in 1993 by oenologist Panos Lantides. Today it is run by the second generation of oenologists/wine-makers. The 17 ha of privately-owned vineyards ensure the quality of the grapes which are vinified in the modern installations at Xirokambos in Nemea.

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Lantides Wines

Nemeion Estate

Domaine Harlaftis

The visit: We can take a guided tour at the winery premises as well as in the vineyards at mountainous Asprokambos, semimountainous Koutsi and at Skoteini.

Nemeion Estate 37°82’13.30 “ Ν 22°66’09.9” E

Agiorgitiko wine. With a clear focus on red wine, the domaine disposes an underground cellar with more than 500 oak barrels.

Info: Xirokambos, Nemea tel. +30 27460 24056, e-mail: info@lantides.gr, www.lantides.gr Open days/hours: MON - FR 10:00 – 18:00 Domaine Repanis 37°78’99.60 “ Ν 22°66’98.51” E The wine story: The impressive winery of the Domaine Repanis, surrounded by Agiorgitiko vineyards and overlooking the city of Nemea, combines traditional sparseness in aesthetics, with modern functional infrastructure used in its production process.

The visit: With its wine exhibition hall, its guesthouses and a hall dedicated to wine tasting, seminars and other cultural events, the winery in the Domaine Repanis is actually the first installation in the area created with oenotourism in mind.

Info: Xirokambos, Nemea tel. +30 27460 20450, e-mail: info@repanis.gr, www.repanis.gr Open days/hours: MON - FR 10:00 – 15:00 or upon request

The wine story: George Vassiliou, oenologist and third-generation wine maker arrived at Nemea, in his quest for Greek wine varieties.

He created his winery whose name was borrowed from Ancient Nemea. Ultramodern, minimal yet impressive, it functions on 5 levels without any windows. Natural light is ensured by two atriums, shedding light down to the underground cellar.

The visit: A large hall can be found on the first floor, with a view overlooking the vineyard and the Nemea hills. This hall has multiple uses (restaurant, wine tasting, events space, multimedia etc.), while the upper level contains 6 suites to host guests.

Highlight: Apart from the sorting and bottling area, the ground floor also disposes the ‘Wine Museum’, showcasing the fruit of the owner’s long years of collection.

Info: Nemea tel. +30 210 6626146, e-mail: info@nemeionestate.gr, www. nemeionestate.gr Open days/hours: daily but upon request Tour costs: 5.00€ per person (together with wine tasting), 30.00€ per person (together with wine tasting and lunch) Domaine Harlaftis 37°82’133 “ Ν 22°66’099” E Domaine Harlaftis winery in Nemea can be found in the Achladias region. A modern building in the heart of the vineyard was created for the production of the estate’s

Info: Achladias, Nemea tel. +30 27460 24197, e-mail: wines@harlaftis.gr, www.harlaftis.gr Domaine Bairaktaris We can take a guided and wine-tasting tour in the recently renovated winery which is located on a central route at Nemea.

Info: 23 Eleftheriou Venizelou Str., Nemea tel. +30 27460-20455, 6974-060682 e-mail: new_wine@otenet.gr, www.bairactariswines.gr Open to visitors Zacharia Vineyrads 2nd km N.R. Nemea - Petri tel. +30 27460 22667, e-mail: info@zacharias.com.gr, www.zacharias.com.gr Katogi & Strofilia www.katogi-strofilia.gr The vineyards of this well-known winery can be seen on the mountainous zone of Nemea, at the village of Asprokambos.

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Corinthia & Argolida Wine Roads Where to eat – Sites to visit 18

Nemea Kir-Athena The old Sofos tavern having passed onto the third generation, refurbished anew both in terms of décor and tastes, remains a quite unique proposal. You will enjoy the tasty grilled meat, the classic home-cooked meals, as well as some more modern dishes. And of course you will have no complaints concerning the wine! The Nemea vineyard is waiting to be discovered in your glass.

(9, Iroon Sq., Nemea, tel. + 30 27460 23070, + 30 6977 356234) Isthmia Kavos Three generations of sea flavours, centred on freshness, can be found at the beginning of the old national road linking Corinth to Epidaurus. Since 1962, Mrs. Pagona Vlassi has been cooking exclusively fish – in summer, next to the sea, in winter by the fireplace. (Isthmia, Corinthia, tel. + 30 27410 37906, + 30 27410 37422) Argos Spilia An old "chani" (travellers’ inn) created to resemble an actual cave is the meeting point for meat lovers. The tavern’s gastronomical flagship is the "bogana" from Argos (tender lamb with potatoes from Tripoli, tomato and spices, slowly cooked in a wood oven).

Some equally tasty options are spitted pork or kid and its amazing pies. The wine list focuses on Nemea wines.

(165, Tripoleos St., Kefalari, tel. + 30 27510 62300) Nafplio Vassilis The most popular tavern on Staikopoulou Street. It stands out for its clear tastes and its unique cuisine. Its strong point are traditional cooked meals – its fricassee and rabbit stew are not to be missed.

(22-24, Staikopoulou St., Old Town, Nafplio, tel. + 30 27520 25334) Savouras A classic, recently renovated spot to enjoy fish at Nafplio. It offers a great variety of well-prepared fish delicacies, fresh fish, lobster pasta and various salads. In the summer you can enjoy your meal outside, under the large umbrellas, on the wide sidewalk of the waterfront.

(79, Bouboulinas St., Old Town, Nafplio, tel. + 30 27520 27704) Sites to visit Ancient Corinth and Acrocorinth One of the richest archaeological sites in Greece.

Ancient Nemea An archaeological site surrounded by vineyards; known for the famous Temple of Nemean Zeus.

Panagia Monastery It can be found on the Nemea Rock and it offers an impressive view of the vineyard.

Ziria A mountainous retreat in a beautiful fir and pine forest.

Aïdonia A village close to Nemea, famous for its archaeological ‘Aïdonia treasure’.

Mycenae A site rich with archaeological finds of the Mycenaean era.

Argos The most ancient city in Europe, with a rock-cut Ancient Theatre.

Tiryns An important archaeological site, with a Mycenaean Acropolis and its own Cyclopean walls.

Nafplio Beautiful Nafplio, the first capital of the modern Hellenic state, known for Palamidi, the Venetian castle, the imposing Acronafplia rock and the picturesque island-castle Bourtzi. The picturesque alleys of the Old City are worth a stroll around.

Epidaurus Renowned for its archaeological site, with the Sanctuary of Asclepios and its ancient theatre with its splendid and unique acoustics, a world symbol of ancient tragedy.

Porto Heli A seaside town, a well-known vacation destination.

Don’t miss Great Days of Nemea Each year, the Winemakers Association of Nemea and the Municipality of Nemea organize the Great Days of Nemea, aiming to promote the P.D.O. Nemea and to develop the oenotourism in the region. Visits in vineyards and wineries, guided tours and tastings are complemented by musical, theatrical and other events. (www.nemeawineland.com)

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ARCADIA WINE ROADS

In the land of the Moschofilero

Tripoli

FAST FACTS ON MANTINIA WINE REGION Vineyards’ surface: 1,250 ha Annual Wine Production: 54,800 HL Wineries: 11 P.D.O. Mantinia white, dry, still/sparkling Variety: Moschofilero, Asproudes Manitinia wine styles: Elegant aromatic whites Palest pink Provençal rosés Expressive sparkling wines

We are in the heart of the Peloponnese, in Arcadia. In the Mantinian Plain, the plateau surrounded by Mainalo, Oligyrtos, Artemisio, Ktenias and Parnonas mountains. Here, at an average altitude of 660 m. lies the wine-growing zone of Mantinia, the homeland of one of the finest white wines in Greece. And if you are not a mountain person but have still visited a plateau, you will surely share this majestic feeling of these surrounding mountainous masses.

The ecosystem The vineyards of the Mantinia zone, spreading across a total 1,250 ha, lie to the Northeast of Tripoli.

Altitude is above 650 meters and the soil is generally poor and well drained. As far as the climate is concerned, it is known for a lot of rain and snow in the winter, frequent showers and storms in the summer and low temperatures, compared to most of the other regions of the mainland. These ecosystem elements contribute to the lengthening of the grapes’ maturation period. Thus, Moschofilero usually matures in the second fortnight of September, quite late for a southern Greek region.

The Mantinia/Moschofilero duet The grapes cultivated in this zone are two whites: Moschofilero and Asproudes. The ‘diva’ is of course the first, which also dominates the cultivations (85%). However, we will meet the Moschofilero across all the Peloponnese and in parts of Central Greece, while a less aromatic clone, Fileri, is grown in South Peloponnese, in Lakonia.

Moschofilero is one of the most aromatic grapes in Greece. Its intense, easily recognizable aroma, in its purest version, reminds us of green apples, lime, rose; while in more complex wines it can be imbued with mint and lemon fragrances. All of the above express the character of the Mantinia white dry wines. Bright, aromatic, fine, elegant and perky, they carry the P.D.O indication since 1971.

As oenologists put it: “The Mantinia/Moschofilero duet is maybe the only “white” in Greece and one of the few globally that has been shown to give -under proper conditions- a number of completely different types of wine products. Exceptional dry whites, aromatic rosés, with a light salmon colour, sparkling wines by the

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classic method or the cuve close one, even sweet wines with high aging potential. And experimentation goes on… This is the future in this zone!”

Rosé Moschofileros We should bear in mind that, although most wine coming from Moschofilero is white, this grape has a reddish skin. Over the past few years, the region’s wine makers have decided to use this feature as well. Responding to the steep rise in the global sales of rosé wines, they also propose light-coloured (Provençal type) delicate rosé wines from Moschofilero.

Sparkling & P.D.O. Moschofileros Even at full maturity, Moschofilero presents a relatively low sugars concentration and high acidity, not common for such a southern region.

It is precisely this feature that has led wine makers into the adventure of producing notable sparkling wines, an attempt crowned with success! Since 2011, Mantinia can produce, apart from its still wines, also sparkling, bearing the P.D.O. indication.

Multiple suggestions It is clear that Moschofilero has a pleasing taste! It has unique personality which suits easily the palate of beginners, as well as of seasoned wine lovers. With its subtle but strong flavour, its distinctive acidity and freshness and its flexibility for food pairing, it conquered the heart of the Greek wine lover from the beginning, while showing potential to begin an international “career”.

Hence small, middle-size or large-scale producers enter the game, attracting the consumer’s attention.

Today, we can find at least 45 Mantinia P.D.O. labels, coming from 11 wineries within this zone and 20 more beyond, as well as many more labels bearing the Peloponnese P.G.I. indication.

THE VINE OF PAUSANIAS

In his book on Arcadia, Pausanias mentions the peculiarity of a vine, old even then, which still exists to this day, at the northern limit of the Mantinia zone, at Klitoria in Kalavrita. It is considered to be the oldest vine in the world and it is a protected monument of natural heritage.

KAPNIOS OINOS According to historian and traveller Theophrastus, the vineyard of Ancient Arcadia produced the “kapnios oinos”.

MOSCHOFILERO CLONES

The most important Moschofilero biotypes are: • the Mavrofilero, giving wine of high alcoholic degree and good acidity. Because of this, it is used as the core for the production of the P.D.O. wines.

• the Xanthofilero and Asprofilero, giving wine of low alcoholic degree and high acidity.

They are mainly used to produce sparkling wine.

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Arcadia Wine Roads Wines to taste Exotic Moschofilero: the grape’s floral intensity, along with its tangy crispness, offers a unique character and profile that explains why wine lovers are embracing this grape with lust.

Amalia Brut Vintage 2013 Domaine Tselepos

Mantinia Troupis Winery

Salto Wild Yeast George Skouras

No winery in Mantinia has explored Moschofilero grape more than Domaine Tselepos, and with the brand new Vintage Amalia, they've produced another textbook sparkling Moschofilero!

Very dry, lively and zesty with a lovely aroma profile of brioche, rose, mineral and citrus, made with the same process as Champagne, is the product of a full 24 months on the lees.

Moschofilero 100% grown in the mountainous vineyards of the family in Fteri, Mantinia (altitude: 700 meters). A pure expression of the variety, it is a terrific refreshing white with classic crushed rose flowers, lime and green apple flavours.

Thea Semeli

Mavrofilero (Moschofilero’s most aromatic clone) grapes from a single vineyard. Grape must left to ferment in inox tanks with wild yeasts. In recognition of the enormous potential of this strongly aromatic variety, oenologist and winemaker George Skouras created this wonderfully crisp, yet packed with silky tree fruit, minerality and many nuances, wine.

(P.G.I. Peloponnese)

Domaine Spiropoulos, well known for their commitment to environmental protection, present a Moschofilero – SB blend (80% – 20%) from the mountainous vineyards of the family.

This is a terrific white with classic herbal, grassy and zesty citrus flavours.

Brand new label, a premium Mantinia determined to expand beyond Moschofilero’s full potential!

Single vineyard: fruit is sourced from a 25 years old vineyard in Zevgolatio mountain region (altitude: 750 meters). 5 months fine lees contact.

Result: ultra-ripe fruit character, great intensity, pure enjoyment!

Oropedio Boutari Boutari, producer of this wonderfully elegant Moschofilero is determined to discover every dimension of the multifaceted variety. They present another Moshofilero 100%, the brand new label Oropedio (meaning high plateau in Greek), made in stainless steel but with a short period in oak barrel for extra intensity and richness.

Astala Domaine Spiropoulos

Mantinia Bosinakis Winery

Textbook Moschofilero: crisp, ripe citrus trees fruit, rose notes and a racy character; so refreshing it can be consumed on its own, or makes a terrific partner to a wide range of dishes. The grapes are sourced from selected vineyards planted on Agiorgitika, Steno and Lithovounia sites (altitude: 650 meters).

Domaine Kalogeropoulos Domaine Kalogeropoulos This clean and refreshing wine, offering thrilling rosewater nose, fresh lime aromas and silky flavour, proves the perfect harmony between Moschofilero and Mantinia region.

Moschofilero Domaine Evharis Made from Moschofilero grapes and vineyards of Central Peloponnese (P.G.I. Peloponnese), this very attractive wine is extremely fine with an undertow of classic rose and citrus flavours.

White Swan Moschofilero Greek wine Cellars A refreshing white, 100% Moschofilero/ P.G.I. Peloponnese. Lively and bright with a citrusy core and direct, grassy lemon and herb flavours.

Fteri Mantinia, 221 32 Tripoli, tel. +30 6973 347323 e-mail: ytroupis@otenet.gr | web: troupiswinery.gr

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Arcadia Wine Roads A visit to the wineries

Domaine Tselepos

Troupis Winery

Boutari / Mantinia Winery

Domaine Tselepos 37°25’45.56” Ν 22°29’21.73” E

domaine! They won this great challenge, producing what is now 150,000 bottles annually!

Info: Fteri, Mantinia tel. + 30 6973 347323, e-mail: ytroupis@otenet.gr, www. troupiswinery.gr Open days/hours: upon request

The wine story: This domaine was created in 1989, when oenologist Yiannis Tselepos, coming from Dijon, France and his wife Amalia, chose the Arcadian vineyard to plant their first vines. Today, their domaine’s wines highlight the exceptional climate and soil conditions in the area, listed among the most important producers and exporters of Greek wine. Their philosophy highlights the connection between Greek varieties/terroir for the P.D.O. areas in which they are active (Mantinia, Nemea, Santorini) and between international varieties/cru for the various sites of their privately owned vineyard (Kokkinomylos, Melissopetra, Avlotopi, Marmarias).

The visit: The visit begins with a short guided tour in the vineyards and in the chapel of the estate. Then we pass by the old water mill (Kokkinomylos) in order to reach the winery. Elegant, simple, functional, “planted” inside 30 ha of privately owned vineyard, it alludes to the architecture of the towers in mountainous Arcadia. We can see the vinification area, the maturing cellars, the bottling facilities, before arriving at the wine tasting hall.

Highlight: The sparkling wines of the

Info: 14th klm Tripoli – Kastri road, Rizes Arcadia tel. + 30 2710 544440, e-mail: tselepos@otenet.gr, www.tselepos.gr Open days/hours: daily upon request Troupis Winery 37°34’42.55” Ν 22°25’03.64” E The wine story: The involvement of the Troupis family with the vine began in the mid ’70s and inevitably gave birth to their love for wine. So, during the past few years, Tassos Troupis and his children have created a family business to produce their wine from their privately owned vineyards.

The visit: The winery is placed at the heart of the Mantinia vineyards, at an altitude of 700 meters, in the Fteri region. The expansion work undertaken in the winery will create a new vinification and reception area.

Highlight: Taste the light Tomi salmon/rosé wine, a 100% Moschofilero coming from a single vineyard.

Boutari / Mantinia Winery 37°34’48.67” Ν 22°23’25.66” E The wine story: Going back to the history of Mantinia wine, we will see the first label which circulated in 1930 from the Cambas Company. Its inspirer was Andreas Cambas, the founder of one of the most powerful wine-making dynasties in 19th century Greece, who created a vineyard and winery in this zone. Since 1991 the management of the 70 ha vineyard and winery has been undertaken by the Boutari Company. Its Mantinia wines are now produced here.

Info: Milia, Tripolis tel. + 30 2710 411477, www.boutari.gr

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Domaine Spiropoulos

Bosinakis Winery

Domaine Kalogeropoulos

Domaine Spiropoulos 37°63’26.29” Ν 22°38’67.53” E

Bosinakis Winery 37°29’02.01” Ν 22°27’12.45” E

Domaine Kalogeropoulos 37°53’29.03” Ν 22°43’77.65” E

The wine story: This is yet another winery dedicated to the qualities of Moschofilero.

With its 50 ha vineyards in the Mantinia zone, the Spiropoulos family is among the most fervent supporters of organic cultivation in the Peloponnese.

The Bosinakis Winery is a purely family business active in wine since 1979. Its vineyards are situated at the villages of Steno, Lithovounia and Agiorgitika in Arcadia, where the microclimate favours the cultivation of Moschofilero more than in any other part of the zone. The Bosinakis wines, white and rosé exclusively coming from Moschofilero, are characterized by finesse and purity of fragrance.

The Domaine Kalogeropoulos, with all its vineyards at the Zevgolatio region, in the centre of the Mantinia zone, has been active in the field of wine since 1980.

The visit: The estate’s winery is situated at Artemisio. Its splendid new building, with its cutting-edge technological equipment was built next to the old winery revealing the family’s relationship with wine since 1860.

We are welcomed in a cosy hall, where we taste their wines, over a panoramic view of the vineyards and the Mantinia plateau.

Info: 15th klm. Tripoli- Artemisio road, Ancient Mantinia tel. +30 27960 61400, e-mail: info@domainspiropoulos.com, www.domainspiropoulos.com Open days/hours: TUE – SA, 09:00 – 15:00, Tour costs: 10.00€ per person (together with wine tasting and local delicacies)

Info: Steno, Mantinia tel. + 30 2710 572767, e-mail: wines@bosinakis.gr, www.bosinakis.gr Olumpous Winery 6th klm Tripoli – Sparta road, Tegea tel. +30 2710 557055, e-mail: olymwine@otenet.gr

Info: Zevgolatio Arcadia tel. +30 2710 572527, e-mail: kalogeropoulospetros@gmail.com, sales@kalogeropoulos-wine.gr, www.kalogeropoulos-wine.gr Besiri Moschofilero Palladio, Arcadia tel. +30 2710 557400, e-mail: info@besiri.gr, www.besiri.gr Greek Wine Cellars www.greek-wine-cellars.com

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Arcadia Wine Roads

Arkadia Wine Roads Where to eat – Sites to visit

Drymonas A stone building in the exit route towards Stemnitsa with Greek cuisine and a large variety of entrées and traditional local dishes which alternate daily. Must try: rabbit with olive oil and oregano and the beef stew.

(Dimitsana, tel. + 30 27950 31116) Ta kokkina pitharia A lovely, inviting hall with cuisine from the mountainous regions and an emphasis on local tastes and wines from the Peloponnesian vineyard. We recommend the goat stew with olive oil and oregano and the wild boar with olives.

(Vytina, tel. + 30 27950 22540) Deipnosofistes A new restaurant with a wonderful hall. It serves local cuisine with room for creative nuances.

(Vytina, tel. +30 27950 22200) Sites to visit Mainalo One of the most beautiful fir forests in southern Greece. You can follow the route leading to the ski centre and reach Vytina from there. At the mountain intersection from Lagadia to Olympia, the scenery is of immense beauty.

Vytina, Lagadia, Stemnitsa These are beautiful mountain villages. Their stone houses peek out of the firs, as the road slips around the dense forest slopes of the Mainalo Mountain.

Dimitsana This was the centre of the ammunition supplies during the Greek War of Independence and the Filosofou Monastery, where numerous patriarchs received their education. The Monastery boasts a renowned library.

Ancient Mantinia The archaeological site is situated at the north of the viniculture zone and it includes a Sanctuary of Dionysus. Αgia Fotini A church of pioneering architecture.

Epano Chrepa Monastery It is one of the highest monasteries in the country.

Doliana, Kastri, Agios Petros These are traditional villages at the foot of Mount Parnon, the dwelling place of mythical god Pan. Along the route one can admire the well-known Monastery of the Virgin Malevi, as well as the mansion of Herodes Atticus (with 1,200 m² of mosaics).

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Achaia Wine Roads

ACHAIA WINE ROADS Patras

Egio

FAST FACTS ON ACHAIA WINE REGION Vineyards’ surface: 6,750 ha Style of wines: 58% white, 42% red Wineries: 36 P.D.O. Patras white dry Mavrodaphne of Patras red dessert wine Muscat of Patras white dessert wine Muscat of Rio Patras white dessert wine P.G.I. Achaia Slopes of Egialia Slopes of Petroto

And we have now reached Patras, the fourth largest city in Greece, with its famous carnival, pretty squares, neoclassical buildings, castle ruins at the crest of the hill and the charm of a bustling port. Patras is the capital of Achaia, at the centre of a viniculture zone with a long history in wine and raisin. Today, its vineyards, which exceed 6,700 ha, recommend four wines under Protected Designation of Origin.

A huge vineyard The Achaean vineyard, which is huge by Greek standards –covering 12% of all Greek vineyards– spreads across the zones of Western Achaia, Kalavrita as well as Akrata – Platanos – Egialia. The region first enjoyed fame 170 years ago, thanks to Mavrodaphne, its famous fortified dessert wine. During recent decades it has also produced successful, remarkable wine –mostly whites, as more than 80% of the vineyard is planted with white varieties- but also some reds.

The most impressive vineyards in Achaia are to be found on the slopes of Egialia. (p. 28) Grapes and wines The first and foremost Achaean variety is Roditis (cultivated on 75% of vineyards), with 8 clones, some of which are very productive. It is the exclusive variety of the P.D.O. Patras. When cultivated in mountainous vineyards with the right control over production, this variety gives us wine with finesse and freshness.

With its medium volume and pleasant acidity, it is apt to ageing. Contrarily, the large-scale production in the plain usually ends in flat wine without any character. Roditis is one of the most popular Greek varieties, broadly used for the production of excellent retsina.

The variety immediately following Roditis in popularity, is the red Mavrodaphne, responsible for the homonymous P.D.O. dessert wine of Patras, the favourite of Gustav Claus (Black Corinth can participate up to 50% in this P.D.O. wine). When it is not cultivated in heavy, rich soil, and of course with the appropriate viticultural techniques, it can give us impressive results/grapes. Dried plum, raisin, caramel, are some of the fragrances exuded by its wines. They have a distinctive low acidity and sub-bitter taste which alludes ideally to dark chocolate. Moreover, sweet Mavrodaphne can be aged for many years, thus forming the complex aromatic character setting it apart from other Greek dessert wines.

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Even though sweet Mavrodaphne is famous within and outside Greece, wine producers have offered us some impressive dry wine coming from this variety over the past few years.

The Muscat White giving the P.D.O. Muscat of Patras and the P.D.O. Muscat of Rio Patras, steals the show, especially when coming from the semi-mountainous vineyards above Rio. This is the small, white aromatic grape Muscat, which in this specific terroir yields wines of unique character and finesse. Drying under the warm Achaean sun reinforces the terpenic aromas of this variety, concentrates the sugars and gives sweet harmony to the dessert wines produced. Greece is famous for its “liatsa� (meaning sun-dried) dessert wines made of Muscat grapes, and the zone of Rio in Patras provides lessons of elegance the world over.

Other local varieties are also cultivated in Achaia, producing interesting wine with Protected Geographical Indication.

Sideritis is a pink-skinned variety most commonly vinified as white wine, giving dry wines of citrus aromas and refreshing acidity.

Lagorthi has its own unique character, as the wine produced from this rare white variety has moderate intensity but is extremely elegant, focusing on minerality and florality. The palate is lean, coming across with great purity, with high acidity and low alcohol, since it is a variety that can achieve full flavour ripeness at 11% alc.

Last but not least, the Mavro Kalavritino is a local red variety producing wine with a good body, fruity aroma and refreshing taste.

Naturally, the large Achaean vineyard could not be complete without the cosmopolitan varieties of Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc etc. occupying 8% - almost- of the entire vineyard, with the Cabernet Sauvignon taking the lead in cultivated land.

Varieties: White Roditis, Muscat White, Sideritis, Asproudes, Malagousia, Lagorthi, Volitsa, Muscat of Hamburg, Athiti, Santameriana, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling Red Mavrodaphni, Mavroudi, Mavro Kalavritino, Alianico, Avgoustiatis, Black Corinth, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache Rouge, Merlot

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Achaia Wine Roads

THE SLOPES OF EGIALIA

A mountainous wine-growing region of breathtaking beauty with suggestions for every visitor.

FAST FACTS ON EGIALIA WINE REGION Vineyards’ surface: 1,100 ha Roditis vineyards’ surface: 950 ha Wineries: 9 Egialia wine styles: Refreshing whites with zesty flavours, finesse and lovely citrus acidity.

The route leads us just outside Egio, in the region called Egialia, a unique natural landscape with an amazing view of the sea. We embark on the pleasant adventure of visiting its vineyards … because Egialia is an immense semi-mountainous and mountainous winegrowing region divided into smaller vineyards by the deep gorges formed by the rivers which bring the waters of mountainous Peloponnesus into the Corinthian gulf. These five large gorges cut us off from taking transversal routes (east-west)! We must therefore go up and down many times in a north-south direction and vice versa, in order to visit them. However, the splendid route with its unimpeded vistas of the Corinthian gulf and the coast and mountains of Roumeli, in central Greece, pays off, reminding us that the effort is worthwhile.

A charismatic and multi-faceted wine country The most impressive vineyards in Achaia, which are for some the most beautiful in Greece, are to be seen on the slopes of Egialia. This zone, whose virtues are lauded by Pausanias in his book on Achaia, is a blessed and multi-faceted wine-growing region. A beautiful area, rich in vegetation, in the northeastern part of Achaia, which stretches out over the Corinthian gulf as if from a balcony. It begins at the Egira beach and reaches Loggos, ascending thereafter to the peaks of the surrounding Helmos and Panachaïkos mountains.

A special winegrowing zone Let us delve into the features of the ecosystem in this blessed zone, Firstly, the altitude of the vineyards Listen carefully! At the Egialia plain, whose breadth is between 500 – 2,000 meters and at some points can barely be crossed by the highway and train, are cultivated exclusively citrus fruit and olives. Vineyards start from this altitude and reach 1,000 meters.

Thus, the vineyards of mountain Egialia are mostly placed at an altitude between 500 and 900 meters and overlook the Corinthian gulf. Moreover, the steep rise in altitude creates high slopes, which bring good soil drainage.

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The northern exposure It is worth noting at this point that Greece’s geographical direction is formed by the Pindos mountain range which crosses the Peloponnese and ends, underwater, in Crete. This formation has a S/SE direction.

Contrarily, Egialia has a N/NE exposure due to the Gulf of Corinth rift. Its vineyards are situated at the north slopes of Panachaikos and Helmos mountains. Therefore, they have their “back” facing the south, to these mountain masses which are effectively protecting them from the warm southerly winds of the Greek summer blowing from the Mediterranean and Africa.

The mild climate This is due to the numerous gorges, with their rich vegetation and small rivers flowing into the sea and is characterized by a relatively high level of rainfall and a marked difference in temperature between day and night, especially in the summer. All the above contributes to the slow, steady ripening of the grapes.

For all these reasons, wine producers and researchers tell us about its candidature as a Protected Denomination of Origin (P.D.O.) zone. And they explain that: "Egialia and Western Achaia are two very different wine-growing zones! Egialia must move towards the "big" terroir white wines! Roditis is an exceptional variety there, while other great surprises come from the all-white varieties: Assyrtiko, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Malagousia, etc. On the other side of the Panachaikos Mountain, the large plains in Western Achaia will provide the future competitiveness that we strive for with regard to contemporary Greek wine.’

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Achaia Wine Roads Wines to taste

Asprolithi Oenoforos

Coryphée Rira Vineyards

The Slopes of Egialia “one of the most interesting vinicultural regions in the world” (Stavroula Kourakou, honorary chairwoman of the O.I.V.) allow the Roditis grape to realize its full potential, making fine and zesty wines like this one.

Wine’s delicious fruit and round flavour stands up for the regions candidature as a P.D.O. zone.

100% Gewürztraminer grown in mountainous Rira vineyards in Egialia. Ultraclean and bright, this gewurz shows good varietal flavours of citrus fruits, peaches and wildflowers. Its fine, and the acidity is wonderfully mouth–cleansing.

Tetramythos

A very attractive, racy Malagousia. Look for aromas of peaches and apricots on the nose with flavours of lemon drops and tropical fruit combined with a long flinty finish. This fine Malagousia captures the sun of Egialia.

This very attractive Roditis comes from estate’s vineyard in Ano Diakopto. Look for aromas of fresh apples and peaches on the nose with flavours of lemon drops and tropical fruit combined with a long flinty finish. Crisp, clean and something you really want to plant your lips on.

Atelier Cavino If you love the exotic perfumed style of Riesling and the elegant one of rare Greek grape Lagorthi, snap this wine up (40%-60%). Appealing and refreshing white, with rich flowery flavours and fine acidity. Wine’s delicious fruit and round flavour matches perfectly the Mediterranean cuisine.

Malagousia Kimtonis Winery

Santameriana The particularly rare Santameriana grape is the source material for this pretty white.

Dense, fine and well-balanced by a fresh seam of acidity. Lovely fruity aromas lead to exotic spice nuances, and a long finish.

Gerontoklima Vertzami Antonopoulos Vineyards Vertzami is one of many unknown varieties of the Greek vineyard that dedicated winemakers - to the delight of wine aficionados -

have managed to save from extinction.

Spicy, smoky, vanilla-scented, with dense, ripe, chocolate-drenched cherry flavours Antonopoulos’s Vertzami always delivers great quality in just about any vintage.

Mavrodaphne of Patras Reserve Parparoussis Winery This delightful Mavrodaphne of Partas’ recipe is: 75% Mavrodaphne + 25% Black Corinth.

Gorgeous elixir with honeyed aromas and sweet memories of childhood. The aromas are classic Mavrodaphne’s, including prunes, figs, mocha and dark chocolate. Sweet and full-flavoured, it is terrifically balanced by a seam of acidity.

Long, long finish. A terrific sweet wine with a Mediterranean heart.

WINERY PRESENTATION / TETRAMYTHOS

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TETRAMYTHOS 8th km Pounta - Kalavrita, Ano Diakopto Achaia 25003, Greece Tel/Fax: +30 26910 97500 Mob: +30 697 2486131 Email: info@tetramythoswines.com www.tetramythoswines.com fb: www.facebook.com/ tetramythoswines

The Region At Ano Diakopto of Aegialia, on the slopes of Mount Helmos, in the area of Protected designation of origin Patras, an attractive winery is looking forward to your visit. In the area renowned since the antiquity period for the excellent quality of grapes and wines, are the cultivated vineyards Tetramythos.

History The brothers Aristos and Stathis Spanos having grown up in this area, found it absolutely natural to be involved in grape growing and wine production early on their lives. They have adopted organic farming (including currants and olive trees) methods. Their love for wine led them to grow dynamically in wine-making. In 1999 they met Panayiotis Papagiannopoulos, an oenologist, who also comes from Aegialia, and after a series of small investements, they produced the first bottles of “Tetramythos�. In the years that followed new vineyards were planted and in 2003 the construction of a contemporary and tasteful winery was started.

The winery The winery building , impressive and tasteful, is in absolute harmony with its natural environment. The inside of the building both charming and functional looks nothing like a factory. The welcoming atmosphere is due to

the wooden roof , carved stones, wood, and the farming tools lying around the winery which were used in the past for grape growing and wine making. The stainless-steel tanks equipped with automatic temperature control, pneumatic presses, oak barrels, as long as the use of gravity to transfer must and wine, respects and express the natural characteristics of varieties Roditis, Malagousia, Black of Kalavryta, Agiorgitiko , Maurodaphne, Muscat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot. Small stainless-steel tanks connected to a central refrigerating system provide small-scale wine making per variety and vineyard. You can take a step back into the past by visiting the stylish wine cellar which houses fermented and aged wines.

Visit Tours and Wine Tastings, daily from 09:00 to 16:00.

Weekends from 10:00 to 16:00.

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Achaia Wine Roads

Achaia Wine Roads A visit to the wineries

Rouvalis Winery

Tetramythos

ACHAIA WINE ROADS / SLOPES OF EGIALIA

Tetramythos 38°08’21.79” Ν 22°14’07.52” E

Cavino - Winery & Distillery Egio 38°15’36.91” Ν 22°03’41.81” E

Rouvalis Winery 38°13’17.92” Ν 22°05’14.90” E

The wine story: This winery was created in 1999 by brothers Aristos and Stathis Spanos and oenologist Panayiotis Papagiannopoulos, who decided to invest in vines, wine and most of all in their homeland, because: “the unique ecosystem, with high altitudes vineyards of northern exposure, proximity to sea, organic farming and cultivation in traditional cup-shaped vineyards, the discipline and measure by viticulturists… all this makes Egialia a great vinifying region”.

The wine story: A large-scale winery & distillery. Its presence in the field of wine and alcoholic drinks dates back to 1958.

Today it is one of the larger Greek exporters of bottled wine. In 1999, Cavino undertook the then untended vineyard of the Mega Spileo Monastery, spreading across 20 ha of the Agios Nikolaos plateau, in upland Egialia and situated at an altitude of 800 meters, with a tremendous view overlooking the Vouraïkos gorge. The vineyard was reestablished and its single vineyard wines are now on the market, proudly bearing the Domaine Mega Spileo label.

The wine story: Since its establishment in 1990, this winery figures among the pioneers in the rebirth of quality Greek wine. Since the very beginning, its creator, oenologist Angelos Rouvalis, pursued the policy of collaborating with the entire zone.

His contribution in the case of the Egialia viticulturists towards cultivating old local grapes, was of decisive importance.

The visit: We will taste their wines in the winery built on five different levels on the slope of the Egio hill. The building combines monastery sparseness with modern techniques and it highlights the values of traditional vinification. Its premises hold numerous cultural events.

Highlight: The activity entitled "Make your own wine" which begins with grapes from their vineyards, continues with the vinification process using technical equipment and with the support of an enologist and ends with the making of your very own label!

Info: Selinous, Egio, tel. + 30 26910 29415, e-mail: info@rouvaliswinery.gr, www.rouvaliswinery.gr Open days/hours: MON - FRI 9:00 – 16.00, SAT – SUN: upon request Tour costs: 3.00€ per person (together with tasting of 4 wines)

The visit: The winery which is well equipped but also in harmony with the idyllic natural landscape can be found at the entry point for Ano Diakopto. Its proprietors will narrate their story as we are guided through the vinification and barrel ageing areas, before reaching the wine tasting hall, offering an amazing view over the Corinthian gulf and the mountains of Central Greece.

Highlight: The clay amphorae in which they vinify their fine retsina. This oenotourism proposal is completed by the opportunity for a stay in the Tetramythos guesthouses.

Info: 8th km Pounta - Kalavrita, Ano Diakopto, Achaia tel. + 30 26910 97500, e-mail: info@tetramythoswines.com, www.tetramythoswines.com Open days/hours: MON - FRI 9:00 – 16.00, SAT – SUN: 10:00 – 16.00

Cavino – Winery & Distillery Egio

The visit: Vinification, maturing, barrels, bottles… cutting-edge equipment, underground air conditioned maturing cellars, ultramodern bottling lines… the guided tour confirms the company’s passion for producing high quality wine.

Highlight: The renovated Metochi-winery within the vineyard of the Mega Spileo Monastery.

Info: Gefira Meganiti, Egio tel. + 30 26910 71555, e-mail: cavino@otenet.gr, www.cavino.gr, www.megaspileo.gr Open days/hours: upon request

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Parparoussis Winery

Rira Vineyards 38°17’36.69” Ν 22°00’34.04” E The wine story: Since the old days, the name Rira refers to a region above Neratzies, Egio, high above the tourist resorts of Loggos – Selianitika, at the Egialia coastal zone. This is now the location of the Rira Vineyards.

The domaine’s boundaries have existed since 1872, having once been planted with raisins. In 2007 Panagiotis Tsitsas created a new, 25 ha vineyard, with local and international varieties and the first bottling began in 2010.

The visit: At the vineyard’s highest point, a building formed as a retreat/nest is offering an amazing spot for us to taste the domaine’s wines, while enjoying a terrific view towards all points of the horizon.

Info: N. Erineos, Egio tel. + 30 26910 20123, e-mail: info@rira.gr, www.rira.gr Open days/hours: MON - FRI 8:00 – 16.00, SAT – SUN: upon request Kintonis Winery Par. Korinthou, Egio tel. + 30 26910 23089, e-mail: giorgos@kintonis.gr, www.kintonis.gr Acheon Winery 38°13’59.65” Ν 22°06’02.84” E The wine story: With a history in wine

production and commerce beginning in 1946, the Katsikostas family produces its wines in its totally renovated winery, aiming at highlighting the local grape varieties.

Info: 121, Korinthou, Egio tel. +30 26910 28062, e-mail: info@acheonwinery.gr, www.acheonwinery.gr Open days/hours: MON - SUN: upon request Edanos Winery Lalamias Akratas, Αιγιάλεια tel. + 30 26960 61370, e-mail: edanos@hotmail.com, www.edanoswines.gr ACHAIA WINE ROADS / WESTERN ACHAIA Parparoussis Winery 38°16’46.07” Ν 21°45’07.72” E The wine story: The Parparoussis Winery was established in 1974 by oenologist Thanassis Parparoussis and his wife Vasso.

Today, the family’s second generation (oenologist Erifili and economist Dimitra) is actively involved in all the levels of the business.

The visit: At the outskirts of Patras, in the Mpozaitika suburbs, we can see the vineyard, the winery and distillery of the Parparoussis family. The garden with its trees, large plants and magnificent peacocks is an oasis of coolness and calm. Follows the tasting of their wines and famous distillates.

Highlight: Thanassis Parparoussis is a great expert in distillations. Taste the amazing Apostagma Oinou (Eau de vie de vin) made of Sideritis grapes.

Info: 2 Parodos Achileos, Proastio Patras tel. + 30 2610 420334, e-mail: info@parparoussis.com, www.parparoussis.com Open days/hours: upon request Antonopoulos Vineyards 38°07’11.61” Ν 21°44’06.88” E The wine story: The "Antonopoulos Vineyards" are the creation of Konstantinos Antonopoulos, a man who believed in the excellent quality potential of the Peloponnesian soil, particularly of mountainous and semi-mountainous Achaia. A new, modern winery was built at Vassiliko in Achaia, where the company’s main vineyard is situated.

Info: Kidonies Vasiliko Farron, Vassiliko tel. + 30 26940 61447, e-mail: info@antonopoulosvineyards.com, www.antonopoulosvineyards.com Sant’Or Wines Santameri, Municipality Olenia tel. + 30 26130 13703, e-mail: info@santorwines.gr, www.santorwines.gr

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Achaia Wine Roads Where to eat – Sites to visit 36

Patras I kouzina tis Kornilias A refined, spacious place with home-made dishes: beef stew with eggplant purée, pork with apricots and yogurt, special pies and their own rustic bread which is just marvellous.

(5, Pouqueville St., tel. + 30 2610 272987) Lavyrinthos A very old restaurant, which became a wine tavern in 1978 to please the residents of Patras who know how to eat well. Authentic, nicely presented and clean thanks to the care of the Antipas family.

(44, Pouqueville St., tel. + 30 2610 226436) Fayum A bistrot offering fresh salads, rich dishes and a delicious frozen strawberry cheesecake with bitter chocolate.

(7, Vassileiou Roufou St., tel. + 30 2610 270557) Egio Mezzaluna Restaurant At a new spot, on the Egio beach, this restaurant continues to centre on Italian flavours. Wine list from the Peloponnesian vineyards.

(99, Zoodochou Pigis St., Egio beach, tel. + 30 2691 025444) Michalis This tavern serves fresh fish and tasty seafood next to the beach.

Wine labels from the area’s wineries.

(Trapeza beach, tel. +30 26961.41603) Kalavrita Liotrivi The luxurious restaurant of the brand new Semantron traditional village, whose rooms are renovated monks’ cells of the Mega Spileo Monastery, built in 1840.

(Elaionas, Diakopto, tel. + 30 26910 44000) Katafigio A traditional tavern in a lovely stone and wood building, overlooking the mountain and the Corinthian gulf. Its entrées are delicious, its pies are home-made and its stews just wonderful.

(15th km Pounta - Kalavrita, tel. + 30 26910 97292)

Avli Directly under the railway station, this tavern is renowned for its fine meat. Some of the best meat soups, fresh pies and numerous entrées are sure to keep you here for hours.

(12, Solioti & Fotila St., tel. + 30 26920 24404) Planitero This tavern looks as though it grew with the sycamore trees, almost on the river, and it is here to surprise you with its dishes! This is the place to come if you want to eat some trout. The owners have their own fish farms and they can cook trout in 9 different ways.

(Planitero, tel. + 30 26920 32055, + 30 6972 322271) Sites to visit Kalavrita The place where the Greek War of Independence began on the 21st of March 1821. The famous Mega Spileo and the Agia Lavra Monastery can be seen here. The rivers flowing into the Corinthian gulf cut through the slopes of the Egialia vineyards and create impressive gorges, like the one at Vouraïkos which ascends along with the “Odontotos” rack railway making the route from Diakopto to Kalavrita. An unforgettable experience.

The lakes cave (“Spileo ton limnon”) An impressive cave at Helmos, with large halls and many stalactite formations.

Tsivlou lake It can be found at northern Egialia. It was formed in 2013, when a large landslide blocked the bed of the river Krathis.

Don’t miss Oinoxenia Each August, the Municipal Public Benefit Association of Egialia organizes Oinoxenia, a series of events centred on wine, perfectly matched with arts and culture, aiming to promote the region’s wine culture. This is a first-rate opportunity to get acquainted with and enjoy the wines from the renowned mountain vineyards, as well as the region’s gastronomy. This perfect excursion proposal is completed by visits to the mountainous landscapes and villages in Egialia, by wine tastings and dozens of events in vineyards and wineries, and lunches in one of the select restaurants offering menus which are indicative of local gastronomy.

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MERCOURI ESTATE S.A., 271 00 Korakohori Ilias, Greece

T (+30) 26210 41601, F (+30) 26210 41901, e-mail: mercouri@otenet.gr

mercouri.gr

MercouriEstate

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ILIA & MESSINIA WINE ROADS

Vineyards and select wine

Pyrgos

Kyparissia

Kalamata

FAST FACTS ON WINE REGIONS Vineyards’ surface: Ilia: 3,590 ha Messinia: 4,310 ha P.G.I. Ilia, Letrina, Pisatis, Messinia, Pylia, Trifilia Varieties: White Fileri, Assyrtiko, Roditis, Skiadopoulo, Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier Red Agiorgitico, Mavrodaphne, Fokiano, Avgoustiatis, Black Corinth, Mantilaria, Merlot, Refosco, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Grenache rouge, Negroamaro, Mourvedre, Carignan

We leave Achaia behind and we drive parallel to the West coast. To the right we have the sea, coastal villages with low buildings. To our left, we have groups of cypresses, olive trees, oleanders, brooms and various pines. The amazing vegetation of this part of the Peloponnese overlooking the Ionian Sea and the sea breeze refresh our spirits. Heading south, we will come upon the vinifying zones of Ilia and Messinia.

The Ilia vineyards are to be found in plains, in the western and central part of the department, around Pyrgos, Ancient Olympia and Amaliada. To the southeast of the mountains, in fertile soil, with abundant water from the Alfios and Pinios rivers.

Slightly further south, in Messinia, vineyards are found in plateaus, exposed to the beneficial influence of the Ionian Sea, in calcareous soil, with fewer water reserves. The Trifilia region, immediately followed by the Pylia region, are the most interesting areas in terms of viticulture.

The relatively low altitude, fertile ground, temperate climate, abundant sunshine with hot and dry conditions during the grapes’ ripening, determine the varietal composition in both the two regions vineyards.

Greek varieties planted here include the Roditis, Fileri, Assyrtiko and the reds Mantilaria, Mavrodaphne, Fokiano, Black Corinth, Agiorgitiko, Avgoustiatis.

But viticulturists have mainly turned to cosmopolitan grapes. The largest part of the vineyards is covered

by Chardonnay, Ugni Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Grenache rouge, Merlot, Carignan.

And the wines produced here reach the market under the P.G.I.: Ilia, Letrina, Pisatis and Messinia, Pylia, Trifilia respectively. Rich whites, fruity rosés and deep coloured, full bodied reds which reflect the warm climate where they are produced, often alluding to wine from the New World.

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Cephalonia Wine Roads

CEPHALONIA WINE ROADS

Vineyards and select wine

Cephalonia

FAST FACTS ON WINE REGION Vineyards’ surface: 700 ha Annual Wine Production: 8,500 HL Wineries: 10 P.D.O. Robola of Cephalonia white dry Muscat of Cephalonia white dessert wine Mavrodaphne of Cephalonia red dessert wine P.G.I. Slopes of Enos, Metaxata, Matzavinata Grape varieties: White: Robola, Muscat White, Tsaoussi, Vostilidi, Moscatella Red: Mavrodaphne

Cephalonia, with its cosmopolitan capital, its incredible beaches and impressive natural sites, is a true beauty. Travelling in its interior, the winding roads pass through olive groves and gardens with citrus fruit.

Up high, the Enos mountain smells of oregano and "throumba" olives. It looks as though the mountainous villages live in another era. And as for its wine?

Two/third (2/3) of the vineyards in Cephalonia lie in mountainous and semi-mountainous areas, in mostly calcareous soil, which are particularly poor in organic matter. The climate is temperate, rainfall is abundant and Enos, the Black Mountain, has a particularly beneficial influence. All the above, combined with low yields and the small size of land parcels (with a mean average of 0,45 ha per producer) have defined the form of viniculture in these parts.

The grape varieties cultivated are Robola, Muscat White, Mavrodaphne and some other, less familiar varieties such as Tsaoussi, Vostilidi (also known as Goustolidi), Zakynthino and the aromatic Moschatella which is unique to the island. Three P.G.I. wines are produced from these grapes: Slopes of Enos, Metaxata, Mantzavinata and three P.G.O.s: Mavrodaphne of Cephalonia and Muscat of Cephalonia, both dessert wines, and the white dry Robola of Cephalonia.

The land of the Robola The Robola zone is situated at the southern and central part of the island. Let us follow its serpentine route. Green vivid nature and vineyards, of a total 700 ha, climb up to the hillsides of Enos and reach 800 meters. Plants literally emerge from amongst the stones, prompting the Venetians to call the wine "Vino di Sasso" - wine of stone. These rocks, however, hide a soil of clay and lime and play a major role in the ripening of the grapes. The planting formation is cup-shaped, and pruning is low. Harvesting usually takes place between the beginning of August and the beginning of September, with yields not exceeding 4 tons per hectare.

The result is Robola. An ethereal white wine, characterised by delicate citrus and mineral aromas, vivid acidity and a body capable of providing balance, thus offering a long aftertaste.

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Ilia & Messinia & Cephalonia Wine Roads Wines to taste Tinaktorogos Brintzikis Winery The particularly rare Tinaktorogos grape of the Asproudes family is the source material for this pretty, dense, fine white. Showing lovely tropical fruit and green aromas now, it should evolve nicely. (P.G.I. Ilia) Fileri Panagiotopoulos Estate Easy drinking and elegant white wine of vibrant pale yellow colour and fine citrus trees and pear nose. Lovely and fresh is perfect for everyday drinking. (P.G.I. Trifilia) Koralli Stavropoulos Estate This Moschofilero rosĂŠ comes from Ilia (P.G.I.).

Expect bright rose colour, flavours and aromas of cherries and strawberries with hints of caramel. Serve with spicy grilled chicken, mullets or pasta.

Domaine Mercouri Mercouri Estate Mercouri Estate is one of the most beautiful Greek wineries and a must-see when touring wine country. This red is their flagship wine.

Refosco and Mavrodaphne blend it shows bold aromas, with hints of cherry, roasted nuts and tobacco. On the palate it is well-rounded, harmonious, and rich with a lingering finish.

(P.G.I. Letrina) Robola Cellar Selection Gentilini This Robola reveals rich mineral and flower aromas, as well as a citrus-flavoured character.

Terroir-driven, aromatic and fresh in its youth, is carefully crafted from high altitude vineyards (850 meters) and limestone soils.

20% of the wine is fermented in French oak barrels to give additional depth and complexity after a couple years of ageing.

Muscat Haritatos Vineyard If you love the rose perfumed style of White Muscat, snap this up. Terrific and refreshing white, a real fruit bomb with lovely acidity.

Whether serving a homemade aioli (the great garlicky dipping sauce) or pan-seared scallops grilled in butter and garlic, it will be an ideal match.

Orgion Sklavos Winery Evryviadis Sclavos targets certain vineyard parcels specifically for this dry Mavrodaphne.

A purple wine which shows terrific personality.

Spicy, smoky, vanilla-scented, with dense, ripe, chocolate-drenched cherry flavours it always delivers great quality in just about any vintage.

Antiopi Domaine Foivos Antiopi is a fascinating sweet Mavrodaphne of Cephalonia (P.D.O) that bursts from the glass with beautiful intensity.

The aroma is laced with perfumed dried prunes. Very, very concentrated and majestic in the deepness of each layer of flavour.

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Ilia & Messinia & Cephalonia Wine Roads A visit to the wineries

Merkouri Estate

Brintzikis Winery

Merkouri Estate 37°40’36.68” Ν 21°18’34.95” E

Info: Korakochori, Ilia tel. +30 26210 41601, e-mail: mercouri@otenet.gr, www.mercouri.gr Open days/hours: MON - FRI 9:00 – 15.00, SAT 9:00 – 14:00 Tour costs: 4.00€ per person + tasting: 2.00€ per dry wine (90cc), 3.00€ per dessert wine (30cc) Special prices for organised groups upon request

The wine story: The Merkouri Estate at Korakochori, Ilia is a true gem! A farm of unique beauty, overlooking the Ionian Sea. And with its 150 years of tradition in producing olive oil, wine and Corinthian raisin before that is one of the most historic wineries of Greece. The new generation of the Kanellakopoulos family is actively participating in its management, and the estate’s wine is following a steadily ascending course in quality.

The visit: We will take a tour of the installations and in the small folklore museum. We will walk among olives, pomegranates, pear- apple- cherry- and citrus trees – and of course vines. We will go down to the small beach. Here, in the late 19th century, the region’s boats would stop to load the barrels filled with Merkouri wine, and then head towards Trieste. We will sit under the shade of the oaks, pines and cypresses and finally, inspired by the scenery, we will taste their wine.

Highlight: The Merkouri clone of the Refosco, the red grape of north Italian origin, which was imported and planted in 1870 by Theodoros Merkouris.

Brintzikis Winery 37°42'18.02" Ν 21°33'15.21" E The Brintzikis family began its winery in 1994 at the Latzoi village in Ancient Olympia.

Following an ecological and eco-friendly operation, it is listed as the first ecological winery in Greece in 2012. Contributing towards this is the use of geothermal energy and photovoltaic systems. Geothermal energy covers the cooling and heating needs for tanks and other areas, while the photovoltaic unit provides for the winery’s electricity.

Info: Latzoi, Ilia tel. + 30 26210 69183, e-mail: kbrintzi@otenet.gr, www.brintzikis.com

Stavropoulos Estate

Stavropoulos Estate 37°49'00.03" Ν 21°15'49.85" E The Stavropoulos Estate was created in 1996 by brothers Alekos and Sakis Stavropoulos.

Today, in the second successful decade of this enterprise, they vinify their wines and welcome visitors in their modern winery, at Palaiochori for a guided tour and tasting.

Info: Palaiochori, Gastouni tel. + 30 26230 32161, e-mail: info@ktimastavropoulos.com, www.ktimastavropoulos.com Open days/hours: MON - FRI 8:30 – 15.00 Estate Olympia Land 37°39'50.72" Ν 21°38'01.86" E Giorgos Liarommatis, being the third generation of the family, began writing his own page in the estate’s story in 2009. The privately owned vineyard and cutting edge winery are to be found at Koskinas village, 2 kilometres from the sacred site of the Ancient stadium of Olympia.

The visit: Τhe stone building of the winery can be found in the verdant valley of river Kladeos. It welcomes individual visitors as well as organized groups, giving them a chance to taste their wine in the purposebuilt tasting hall.

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Estate Olympia Land

Nestor Wines

Info: Koskinas, Ancient Olympia tel. + 30 26420 23021, e-mail: info@olympiagi.gr, www.olympiagi.gr Open days/hours: MON - FRI 10:00 – 15.00, SAT 10:30 – 14:30 Tour costs: 9.00€ per person

MESSINIA WINE ROADS

Markogianni Estate The family business is active since 1982 in viniculture, vinification and in the production of tsipouro. The winery close to ancient Olympia and the other sites of the region welcome guests. They propose a tour, a walk around the vineyards, walks in the surrounding areas and a tasting of their wine and distillations, accompanied by home-made, seasonal treats.

Info: Skillountia, Olympia tel. + 30 26250 51483, e-mail: ktima_markogianni@hotmail.com, www.markogianni.gr Open to visitors

Nestor Wines 37°02'49.53" Ν 21°43'34.98" E The wine story: The winery which has housed the activity of the Nestor Agricultural & Winemaking Cooperative of Messinia since the 1950’s, hosts today an ambitious collaboration between the coop and the Lafazanis family, which has been active in the production of wine and distillations of alcoholic beverages for seven decades. (p. 14) The visit: The huge winery lies north of the Bay of Navarino just a few kilometres away from the ancient palace of King Nestor, and its surrounding area is considered one of Messinia’s most historical locations. The elegant reception area with its splendid view is a true "window to the sky" at the centre of Mycenaean land, where viniculture has existed for more than 4,000 years, as proved by archaeological research.

Highlight: The ancient wine vases from the Nestor palace exhibited in the archaeological site. This gives incontrovertible proof of a wine tradition continuing to this day.

Info: Pyrgos, Trifilia tel. + 30 27630 41073, e-mail: pyrgos@onestor.gr, www.nestorwines.gr Open days/hours: MON - SAT 9:00 – 18:00 or upon request Panagiotopoulos Estate 37°04'54.15" Ν 21°41'24.67" E Dimitris Panagiotopoulos with his father, a grapevine nursery-owner and his wife, an agricultural expert, cultivates his vines surrounding his winery using organic methods. This modern unit is a good choice for those traveling the area and wishing to acquaint themselves with its wine profile.

They will have the opportunity to wander in the vineyard, see the winery and taste the wines.

Info: Pyrgos, Trifilia tel. + 27630 41190, e-mail: info@panagiotopouloswine.com, www.panagiotopouloswines.com Open to visitors

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Ilia & Messinia & Cephalonia Wine Roads

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Gentilini

CEPHALONIA WINE ROADS Gentilini Winery and Vineyards 38°08'16.75" Ν 20°29'48.45" E The wine story: In an excellent location, outside the village of Minies, we make a stop at the Gentilini Winery. This is the pioneering effort of Spyros Kosmetatos to create a wine with international standards – it began in 1977 with the installation of a vineyard and research on vines, pruning techniques, watering, pesticide protection... anything that the latest development in university research would suggest. The same effort continues to this day with his daughter Marianna and her ever-active husband, Petros Markantonatos.

The visit: We will taste their wines in the calm of their garden, in a beautiful natural environment, talking, learning, exchanging views with the owners.

Highlight: Staying in the guesthouses of the Gentilini mansion, which is composed of two buildings in the 8 ha domaine with the ancient olive trees and cypresses.

Info: Minies tel. + 30 26710 41618, e-mail: info@gentilini.gr, www.gentilini.gr Open days/hours: May – September, daily 10:00 – 14:30 & 17:30 – 20:30 Tour costs: 3.00€ - 10.00€ per person (together with wine tasting)

Sklavos Winery 38°12'07.80" Ν 20°26'13.13" E

Domaine Foivos 38°11'07.92" Ν 20°24'45.85" E

Info: Kexrionas, Lixouri tel. +30 26710 91930, e-mail: sclwines@otenet.gr

At the other side of the gulf, at the Paliki peninsula, lies the Domaine Foivos, created from the purchase of the historic Manzavino winery.

Info: Vouni tel. +30 26710 29505, e-mail: info@domainefoivos.com, www.domainefoivos.gr

At Lixouri in the Paliki peninsula, we will taste the wines of the Sklavos Winery. Evryviadis, persistent and effective, was one of the first in Greece to apply biodynamic cultivation in his entire vineyard. He was also one of the first to bring the excellent dry version of the Mavrodaphne to our attention.

Haritatos Vineyard 38°12'07.80" Ν 20°26'13.13" E We remain at Lixouri in the Paliki peninsula.

In an estate filled with all sorts of plants, the Haritatos family awaits us in the winery next to its house, a beautiful 19th century building.

Info: Kladata, Lixouri tel. + 30 26710 91774, e-mail: harit@otenet.gr

Ilia & Messinia & Cephalonia Wine Roads

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Ilia & Messinia & Cephalonia Wine Roads Where to eat – Sites to visit 45

Ancient Olympia Bacchus The restaurant of the Bacchus guest house boasts a breathtaking view and offers delicious local dishes, as the owner is also the cook. We suggest wild herbs with tomato and cheese, stewed rooster with thick pasta, mavromatica beans with kafkalithres herbs. Most of the vineyards lying at the foot of the mountains of Ancient Pisa are represented in the wine list. (Ancient Pisa (Miraka), tel. + 30 26240 22298) Garden Restaurant The restaurant of the Europa hotel serves delicious Greek and Mediterranean cuisine, in an idyllic garden, next to the pool.

(Ancient Olympia, tel. + 30 26240 22650, + 30 26240 23850, www.hoteleuropa.gr ) Katakolo Glyfada An elegant, fine fish taverna next to the sea. We can enjoy fresh, properly grilled fish, good quality panned fish and seafood.

(Katakolo, tel. + 30 26210 41204) Vryniotis The restaurant of the Vryniotis hotel serves good fish and welltended home cooking in a sweet, lovingly looked-after veranda under the shade dense of mulberry trees. (Αg. Andreas, Katakolo, tel. + 30 26210 41158) Kalamata Yiamas Gastro Bar Located at the Kalamata beach, in the Elite City Resort hotel, it successfully combines Greek tradition, creativity and love for wine.

(Navarinou, tel. + 30 2721022434, + 30 6942 021032) Limeni A lovely tavern, in a courtyard with a wooden roof at the Kalamata marina. In a well arranged hall with a fireplace at its heart they serve authentic Greek and Messenian recipes, with an emphasis on fish.

(Chiou and Poseidonos St., tel. + 30 27210 95670) Costa Navarino The restaurants of the luxury resort propose perfect local and international, as well as ethnic cuisine.

(Pylos, tel. + 30 27230 96000, www.costanavarino.com)

Cephalonia Kyani Akti A wooden jetty, with water beneath your feet. Its specialties are the great "petrosolines", clams and fresh fish from the open sea. (Ι. Metaxa, Argostoli, tel. + 30 26710 26680) Tassia A famous tavern in the heart of the beautiful port, whose reputation is due to the celebrities gracing its tables. It serves local dishes, fish and seafood. (Fiscardo, tel. + 30 26740 4120) Sites to visit Ancient Olympia A world-famous archaeological site of unique beauty, the birthplace of the Olympic Games, in an environment of Olympian peace, quiet and serenity.

Oak forest of Foloi An oak forest unique in Greece, in the mythical homeland of the Centaurs.

Pylos A beautiful charming town. Built amphitheatrically, with the historic Bay of Navarino at its feet.

Kotichi A lagoon protected by the Ramsar treaty, with notable flora and fauna, a fishery and a beach with impressive sand formations.

Kaiafas Α beautiful region with thermal springs, a lake and the Strofilia pine forest.

Voidokilia A sandy beach with shallow waters, an amazing natural landscape.

Cephalonia The largest island of the Ionian Sea, with impressive natural sites, such as the imposing Enos mountain with its protected wild horses and unique black fir trees, the lake-cave of Melissani with its blue waters, the Drogarati cave with its impressive stalactites and stalagmites and the "katavothres" (sink hole) phenomenon.

Laconia Wine Roads

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LACONIA WINE ROADS

Wines of Monemvasia: From Byzantium until today

Sparta

Gythio

Monemvasia

FAST FACTS ON WINE REGION Vineyards’ surface: 667 ha Annual Wine Production: 36,000 HL Wineries: 9 P.D.O. Monemvasia-Malvasia white dessert wine P.G.I. Laconia White Kidonitsa, Monemvasia, Assyrtiko, Asproudes, Roditis, Petroulanos, Gewürztraminer Red Mavroudi, Agiorgitiko

Our route has brought us to the southern Peloponnese, in the famous castle-town of Monemvasia. We cross the heavy gate with its Venetian arms. We walk through the cobbled alleys. Arches, steps, Byzantine ruins and castle cannons: it looks as though time stopped in the Middle Ages. That was the time of production of the legendary Malvasia wine, meaning the Byzantine wine of Monemvasia which was traded by the Venetians and Genovesians.

We are now at a new vineyard but with a very long history, characterized by the cultivation mainly of Greek varieties. The wine-growing zone extends mainly around the cities of Sparta and Monemvasia, with the Skala, Asopos, Vatika and Krokees regions also having interesting wine-related activity.

The region was historically known for its wine, which was only legally recognised as recently as in 2010, under the appellation Monemvasia-Malvasia. During its glory years, which lasted for more than five centuries, it was known as the ‘black wine made from white grapes’. It began its voyage in the 12th century A.D. and during its predominance, it travelled in all markets of the East and West. It was exported to all Mediterranean and Black Sea ports, reaching even the most demanding markets in Europe. It was loved and drank in the finest wealthy and noble homes, even on the tables of kings and it acquired an immense reputation, unequalled by any other wine during the Middle Ages and the Renaissance.

The Francs called Malvasia the castle of Monemvasia, at the tip of the Laconian peninsula. But they used the same name for the entire region, for the grape variety as well as for the wine, the famed Byzantine wine from Monemvasia, which was loaded at the port to be shipped away. The occupation of the mainland by the Turks around 1470, resulted in the progressive halt to the production of this wine, and in the development of viniculture in the Cyclades (mainly Paros) and in Crete.

Grapes and wines The delicate, white Monemvasia contributes by 50% to the dessert P.D.O. wine Monemvasia – Malvasia, adding along with Asproudes and Kidonitsa to its caramel character. It is a special sweet wine with honeyed aromas. Rich and full-flavoured, it is terrifically balanced by a seam of acidity.

The white Kidonitsa grape cultivated almost exclusively in Laconia steals the show with exceptional wines, which have gained more and more followers over the years. They are mildly acid, having a good structure with a full body and aromatic character reminding us strongly of quince.

The Mavroudi, a dark skinned grape, stands out among the red. Showing strong aromatic character and an ageing potential it is vinified on its own or participates in red blends.

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Laconia Wine Roads

Laconia Wine Roads Wines to taste Kidonitsa Estate Theodorakakos Taste this pretty smart wine and… the light of truth will shine upon the Kidonitsa grape’s abilities. Vibrant pale yellow colour leads to beautiful nose of citrus and apricots and hints of quince in the buttery aftertaste.

Monemvasia - Malvasia Monemvasia Winery – Tsimbidis & Co If you wondered what a Monemvasia-Malvasia, made from sun dried (10-12 days) Monemvasia, Kidonitsa, Assyrtiko and Asproudes grapes, tasted like, this spectacular wine would certainly give you an idea of the combination of richness and acidity. Exotic aromas of peaches, apricots next to roasted almonds and chocolate. Delicious with a pleasant citrus trees fruit finish that goes on and on. A finish without end.

A visit to the wineries

Estate Theodorakakos

Monemvasia Winery

Estate Theodorakakos 36°56’52.70” Ν 22°31’38.64” E

Info: 17th klm N.R. Sparta – Gythio, Daphni tel. + 30 27310 36555, e-mail: info@estatetheodorakakos.gr, www.estatetheodorakakos.gr Open days/hours: MON - SUN 09:00 – 17:00 upon request Tour costs: 6.50€ - 12.50€ per person

The wine story: The family’s fist grapes were harvested in the early 20th century. George Theodorakakos was among the first winemakers who decided to take part in the regeneration of wine around the region of Sparta. In 1970 he planted the first linear vineyard in the area, urging other residents to take up wine culture. Today, all vineyards are organically cultivated.

The visit: The estate keeps its doors open to visitors, for a guided tour in the vineyards, in the new winery and for a wine tasting. As they explain, “we aim to attract as many visitors as possible to the Estate Theodorakakos for a guided tour around the winery and for an acquaintance with the wine production procedure, by taking part in it”.

Monemvasia Winery –Tsimbidis & Co 36°42'25.00" Ν 22°56'48.91" E The wine story: The largest winery in Laconia belongs to Monemvasia Winery.

Its founder, oenologist George Tsimbidis, in collaboration with the Farm Schools of Athens and Thessaloniki, conducted research for the identification and recultivation of grapes from which the Malvasia wine was made. After continued efforts for 12 years, this marathon of an adventure yielded its fruit, with the

regeneration of its legend! Since 2009, Greek wine legislation has acknowledged the P.D.O. Monemvasia – Malvasia. Today, the first contemporary Malvasia wine from Monemvasia is a fact.

The visit: We will taste their wines in the winery built at Velies. We await the completion of their new winery, on the road leading to Monemvasia.

Highlight: We bow before the beauty and honey texture of this legendary sweet wine.

Info: Velies, Monemvasia tel. + 30 27320 53096, e-mail: info@malvasiawines.gr, www.malvasiawines.gr Open days/hours: TUE - SAT 11:00 – 16:30

Laconia Wine Roads

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Laconia Wine Roads Where to eat – Sites to visit 49

Monemvasia Matoula A fairy-tale yard filled with pomegranates and with a view towards the sea. It is famous for its cooked dishes, its soutzoukakia (spiced meatballs) and rice-stuffed vine leaves with egg béchamel. This is a very popular restaurant, so book in advance.

(Monemvasia Castle, tel. +30 27320 61660) Kanoni One of the most famous restaurants in the castle-city. Its tables are placed on verandas and terraces, overlooking the castle with its magnificent view. It serves Greek and international dishes – you should try the "Kanoni" eggplant.

(Castle, tel. +30 27320 61387) Chrysovoulo At a select spot at the Castle’s entrance, it offers modern Greek dishes and a unique view.

(Castle, tel. +30 27320 62022) Kinsterna restaurant The restaurant of the luxury hotel with the same name serves exquisite Mediterranean dishes in an extremely atmospheric ambience. The chefs use products from the estate and from the broader region.

(Aghios Stefanos, Monemvasia, tel. +30 27320 66300) Diamantis Situated at the Gerakas lagoon. Enjoy its delicacies while swans and herons at the fjord-like inlet provide you with the most beautiful of summer scenery. (tel. 27320 23802, 27320 23849)

Sites to visit Mystras The famous byzantine state with numerous churches, linked to the dynasty of the last Byzantine emperors, the Palaiologos dynasty.

Dyros Cave An impressive cave, full of stalactites.

Elafonissos A lovely spot, ideal for quiet vacation.

Ancient Sparta A famed city of ancient Greece with its Acropolis, ancient Theatre and sanctuary of Artemis Orthia.

Gythio A picturesque seaside city, ideal for vacations.

Monemvasia The famous castle-city. Cobbled streets. Arches, steps, byzantine ruins, cannons on the castle. One would think that time stopped in the Middle Ages!

Don’t miss Melijazz Festival The "tsakoniki" eggplant festival is particularly interesting.

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Don’t miss 50

Taste it > love it > shop it > share it

Corinthia • raisins • fava • beans • snails

Ilia • olive oil • raisins • strawberries • tomatoes

Argolida • olive oil • artichoke of Irion Assinis Nafpion • pomegranate of Ermioni • melon of Argos

Messinia • olive oil • olives • talagani (cheese) • loupina (greens) • watermelon • dried figs of Kalamata • pasteli (sweat) • sfela (cheese) • salted pork • roasted piglet • tsiladia (pan-fried cod with tomato and raisins) • balsamic vinegar

Arkadia • honey pearl • apples Delicious • Tsakoniki eggplant • potatoes of Tripoli • garlic of Tripoli • traditional pasta • smoked meat and cold cuts • lagoto (braised veal) • tsakonika textile Achaia • raisins • honey of Erymanthos and Helmos • tentura (traditional liqueur of Patras) • microbrewery Cephalonia • olive oil • comfeto (quince spoon sweet preserves) • mandola (almond roasted with sugar)

Laconia • olive oil • onion • siglino of Mani (smoked pork) • goges (pasta) • smoked trout • amigdaloto of Monemvasia (soft almond paste)